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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..65537c2 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #55952 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/55952) diff --git a/old/55952-0.txt b/old/55952-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 8085e6b..0000000 --- a/old/55952-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7695 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Memoirs of the Late War, Vol 1 (of 2), by -John Cooke and George Fitzclarence and John Moodie - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - -Title: Memoirs of the Late War, Vol 1 (of 2) - Comprising the Personal Narrative of Captain Cooke, of the - 43rd Regiment Light Infantry; the History of the Campaign - of 1809 in Portugal, by the Earl of Munster; and a Narrative - of the Campaign of 1814 in Holland, by Lieut. T. W. D. - Moodie, H. P. 21st FusileersVolume 1 (of 2) - -Author: John Cooke - George Fitzclarence - John Moodie - -Release Date: November 13, 2017 [EBook #55952] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MEMOIRS OF THE LATE WAR *** - - - - -Produced by Brian Coe, Larry B. Harrison, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - - MEMOIRS - OF - THE LATE WAR. - - VOL. I. - - - - - The United Service Journal - AND - NAVAL AND MILITARY MAGAZINE. - - -This new and interesting miscellany is regularly published by Messrs. -COLBURN AND BENTLEY every month, price 3s 6d. The following opinion -will at once demonstrate its claims on the attention of the public. - - "The United Service Journal is confessedly one of the best - periodicals of its kind that have ever issued from the Public - Press. No Monthly Journal has yet appeared so devotedly attached - to the interests of the Army and Navy, or whose claims to the - patronage of both services are so strikingly conspicuous. It is - full of agreeable anecdote and useful information. In its pages we - find a faithful and most interesting record of past achievements, - whether on sea or land, diversified by many characteristic traits - of British heroism, and national gallantry, from the lowest to - the highest rank in the Service. New improvements in gunnery, - navigation, and the art of War, are exposed to view with the - commanding powers of a master hand, while no subject is omitted - which could by possibility involve the honour and welfare of our - Army and Navy. In fine, the Journal affords us a correct summary - of all changes in the station of Regiments and Ships of the line, - besides an authentic return of the Promotions in the Red and the - Blue. Independently of the attractions it has for a military man, - this periodical may be read with much pleasure by a civilian, - and we feel much gratification in stating that it enjoys a very - considerable patronage."—_Limerick Chronicle._ - -[asterism] The above Periodical is regularly supplied by all -Booksellers and Newsvenders, and may also be forwarded to friends and -relatives abroad, by giving orders, and making payment accordingly, -and those who may be desirous of obtaining it, are requested to give -their orders to any Bookseller or Newsman in their own immediate -neighbourhood. - - - LONDON: - G. SCHULZE, 13, POLAND STREET. - - - - - MEMOIRS - OF - THE LATE WAR: - COMPRISING - THE PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF - CAPTAIN COOKE, - OF THE 43rd REGIMENT LIGHT INFANTRY; - THE HISTORY OF THE CAMPAIGN OF 1809 - IN PORTUGAL, - BY THE EARL OF MUNSTER; - AND A NARRATIVE OF - THE CAMPAIGN OF 1814 IN HOLLAND, - BY LIEUT. T. W. D. MOODIE, H. P. 21ST FUSILEERS. - - IN TWO VOLUMES. - VOL. I. - - LONDON: - HENRY COLBURN AND RICHARD BENTLEY, - NEW BURLINGTON STREET. - 1831. - - - - - CONTENTS - OF THE FIRST VOLUME. - - PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF CAPTAIN COOKE. - - - CHAPTER I. - - Page. - - Initiation into military life—State of the militia - force—Preparations against the expected invasion from - Boulogne—French prisoners—An accident—The author occupies - a dull post near Grimsby—An enlivening incident connected - with the tender passion—Love cooled by aqueous immersion, - and rekindled by bright eyes—Earl Fitzwilliam—Quarters - in Bristol—A fatal affray—Clifton—The author engaged in - an affair of honour—Anecdote—The author enters the - line—Return of the British army from the Peninsula—Severe - drilling. 1 - - - CHAPTER II. - - Scene of embarkation for foreign service at Deal—A - character—Force and objects of the expedition—Arrival off - Walcheren—Siege and capture of Flushing—Disastrous sickness - among the troops—Evacuation of Walcheren, with the author's - adventure on the occasion—The return to England—Napoleon's - situation at that period. 34 - - - CHAPTER III. - - Progress of distemper on the re-landing of the regiment in - England—Change of quarters—Amusements—Colchester—An - eventful water party—The author obtains leave to join the - detachment proceeding to Portugal—A Review—A tale of - dental dislocation—Embarkation at Spithead—Landing in - Portugal—Incidents of an evening—Amusements at Lisbon, and - departure from that city. 54 - - - CHAPTER IV. - - March to Santarem and Abrantes—Scenery and incidents at - Aronches—Junction with some other regiments—Military scene - in a wood—Anticipatory reflections on the fate of some of - the author's comrades—Quarters at Portalagre, Castello de - Vida and Marvao—Bridge of boats across the Tagus—Contiguous - scenery—Horrors of travelling for invalids in the Portuguese - cars. 71 - - - CHAPTER V. - - March continued—Wild and striking aspect of the - country—Excellence of discipline—Camp followers—Spanish - peasant girls and men—Plain of Fuente de Guinaldo—Reflections - on a soldier's life—A vegetable conflagration—Village of - Martiago—Difficulties of the French—Arrival in cantonments—The - paymaster's peculiarities. 85 - - - CHAPTER VI. - - The author is attacked by illness—Miseries of military - travelling in that condition—Quarters at Celorico—The - author's difficult recovery—Grievous sufferings endured - by the soldiers affected with fever in the sickly season—Death - of the Paymaster—The author rejoins his Division—Movements - of the French—A clerical case of disaster—The contested - mattress—A dance—Expensive celebration of Christmas—Story - of the German suttler—Village and neighbourhood of Fuente - de Guinaldo—Theatrical representations by the English - officers. 100 - - - CHAPTER VII. - - Preparations for the siege of Ciudad Rodrigo—A review of the - light Division by Lord Wellington—The fort and convent of - Saint Francisco taken—Storming the breach—Capture of the - place—Regulations for the prevention of plunder—Disorders - committed in the city—Remarks and anecdotes connected with - the siege—Burial of General Craufurd—Removal of quarters - to El Bodon—Vestiges of the previous engagement near that - place—Ciudad Rodrigo consigned to a Spanish garrison—March - towards Badajoz—Castello de Vida—Fortress of Elvas—An - accidental acquaintance. 114 - - - CHAPTER VIII. - - March from Elvas to Badajoz—Defences of that city—The - investment—A sortie—Operations of the batteries—Capture - of fort Picurina—Preparations for the grand assault—Advance - of the "forlorn hope"—Desperate encounter at the - breaches—Loss of life experienced by the British—The mode - of attack changed to escalade with success—The city sacked - by the British troops—Reflections respecting the conduct - of the siege—Incidental anecdotes. 133 - - - CHAPTER IX. - - Movements of the enemy after the fall of Badajoz—March of - the British light and third divisions towards Ciudad - Rodrigo—Dispositions for a fresh campaign—Excellent - marching arrangement of the light division—Occupation of - Salamanca by the British, and investment of the forts—Advance - of the French army—Skirmishing and cannonading—Surrender - of the forts by the French—English quarters at Rueda, and - amusements there—Movements of the author's division—A - breakfast party broken up—Personal escape of the - commander-in-chief—Active manœuvres of the contending - forces—Retrograde movement of the British towards - Salamanca—Relative position of the two armies—Battle of - Salamanca. 157 - - - CHAPTER X. - - Well-performed retreat of the French after the battle of - Salamanca—Progress of the English troops—Description of the - Spanish plains and towns—Custom of the Siesta—Movements of - Joseph Bonaparte—Bivouac at Olmedo, and ball given there by - Lord Wellington—Advance of the British army, and entry into - Valladolid—A swimming adventure—Illness of the author, and his - removal to the town of Cuellar—Timorous conduct of the Portuguese - dragoons—The English army enters Madrid—Incidents attending - the author's further removal as an invalid to Salamanca—General - position of affairs on the Continent—Operations of Sir R. - Hill—Re-capture of Valladolid—Unsuccessful siege of - Burgos—Various movements of the forces. 191 - - - CHAPTER XI. - - The author becomes convalescent, and proceeds to rejoin the - army—Guadarama mountains—Park and Palace of the Escurial—An - enthusiastic native—A Spanish bandit—British quarters in - Madrid, and description of the city—English theatricals—Renewed - activity of the contending armies—The British troops evacuate - Madrid—Romantic attachments—Alba de Tormes—Re-occupation of - Salamanca—Military discomforts—Skirmishing affairs—The French - obliged to desist from pursuit through fatigue—Various positions - of the British forces during the winter of 1812-13. 211 - - - CHAPTER XII. - - The light Division reviewed by the Commander-in-chief—Reinforcements - from England—The army again in motion—Encampment of the light - division between Rodrigo and Salamanca—The German hussars—March - to Salamanca, the French retreating—Scene in the Cathedral at - Salamanca—Crossing the Tormes, and progress of the march—Passage - of the Esla—Affair at Toro with the French heavy - horse—Concentration of the whole army, and march through Valencia - towards Burgos—An accommodating priest—Capture of French baggage - and prisoners—Details of the battle of Vittoria. 242 - - - CHAPTER XIII. - - Pursuit of the enemy after the battle of Vittoria—Curious - spectacle and adventure in a French bivouac—Advance towards - Pampeluna, and repulse of the French rear-guard—Retreat of - the main body of the enemy into France—Reflections on the policy - of King Joseph—Change of the British route, and encampment at - Sanguessa—A casual dance—Return to Pampeluna—Expulsion of the - French from the valley of Bastan—The Basque peasantry—Town of - Bera—Position for covering Pampeluna and St. Sebastian—Preparations - for the attack of the latter place—The command of the French - assumed by the Duke of Dalmatia—A family scene—Position of the - French army. 274 - - - CHAPTER XIV. - - Offensive operations of the Duke of Dalmatia—Partial retrogression - of the British—Ill success in the storming of the breaches at - St. Sebastian—Movements of the various divisions—Great extent - of the British line along the Pyrenees—Interesting domestic - scene attending the departure of the Author's Division from the - town of Bera—Battle of Pampeluna—Embarrassing situation of - the light division through an accidental separation from the - army—Successes obtained over the French, and their consequent - retreat—Active movements, and capture of the enemy's baggage—A - trait of character—Continued advantages gained over the French, - who are driven beyond the Pyrenees. 300 - - - - - PERSONAL NARRATIVE - OF - CAPTAIN COOKE. - - - - - MEMOIRS - OF - CAPTAIN COOKE. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - Initiation into military life—State of the militia - force—Preparations against the expected invasion from - Boulogne—French prisoners—An accident—The author occupies - a dull post near Grimsby—An enlivening incident connected - with the tender passion—Love cooled by aqueous immersion, - and rekindled by bright eyes—Earl Fitzwilliam—Quarters in - Bristol—A fatal affray—Clifton—The author engaged in an - affair of honour—Anecdote—The author enters the line—Return - of the British army from the Peninsula—Severe drilling. - - -On the 24th of January, 1805, I made my _début_ on the parade as -ensign in the first West York, powdered and equipped in full uniform, -with an artificial tail of considerable length tied round my neck, a -cocked hat square to the front and a sword five inches shorter than -the regulation, made in proportion to my height, being only four feet -eleven inches, and within one month of attaining my fourteenth year. - -My diminutive figure soon attracted the attention of the leading -company of the regiment, composed of gigantic Yorkshire grenadiers[1], -and excited so much merriment among them, and so encreased my previous -confusion, that my eyes became dim and my feet seemed scarcely to touch -the ground. However, some kind expressions from the officers who came -forward and surrounded me, and their gay appearance soon dispelled my -inquietude. - -A short time proved sufficient to instruct me in the duties required; -and the varied amusements caused the early months of my career to glide -rapidly on. Our uniform was plain, faced with green, but suddenly -altered owing to an officer of expensive habits, who ordered a new -coat to be made and covered with a profusion of gold lace, in which -he appeared at the mess table, and so captivated his companions by -his rich display, that a unanimous burst of admiration broke forth. -Although the lieutenant colonel was as much averse from any thing of -the sort as it was possible for any one to be, the new pattern was -carried by acclamation, and a tacit consent wrung from the commanding -officer, intermixed with his hearty execrations. Frequently, after the -alteration, he used to wear his old coat at the mess table by way of a -treat, when, to his extreme mortification, the very officer who caused -the change would throw out hints about officers being unregimentally -dressed. - -Such was the ingenuity of this individual, that on being refused leave -of absence, he waited personally on a general, and afterwards declared -that he had represented the necessity of his appearance at home in such -moving words, that he not only obtained double the time originally -asked for, but also drew tears of sympathy from the general's eyes. - -In the early part of the summer, General Sir John Moore inspected us -on our parade ground, and was pleased to pass his high encomiums on -the very fine appearance and steadiness of the men while under arms. -Indeed the militia at large were equal to the line[2], in the execution -of their evolutions and discipline, and were well adapted for the -defence of their native shores, at this epoch threatened with invasion -by the French. Had their services been required to repel such an -aggression,—led on by experienced generals, without doubt they would -have proved themselves equal to cope with any troops in the world; -and those who had an opportunity of judging at that time, will, I am -confident, fully coincide with me and join in just admiration at the -high state of perfection that national force had been brought to. - -During the summer the troops in the numerous towns and camps in Kent -were reviewed. Our brigade left Ashford and joined two battalions of -the rifle corps, 95th[3], at Bradbourne Lees and manœuvred before the -Duke of York. The 43rd and 52nd light infantry regiments were organised -under the immediate superintendence of Sir John Moore[4] (assisted by -Major General McKenzie) at Hythe, and Shorncliff camp, in the most -exemplary manner. Those corps were indeed the admiration of all, for -their discipline, and the rapidity of their light movements, all of -which being executed on the moveable pivot, by divisions, or sections, -formed columns, squares, lines, and echelon, without a halt, by merely -marking time. - -The moveable pivot preserved a regular cadence, handsome to the sight, -and of great utility. In course of time these useful evolutions -extended throughout the army, and, for aught I know, are still called -"NEW!" with perhaps a few alterations. - -The officers of these regiments wore a neat soldier-like uniform -of scarlet, facings white and buff, with a pair of small silver -epaulettes; and such was the similarity of costume of the two corps, -that, at a short distance, it was hardly possible to distinguish -one from the other; and, when formed in a line on the green sod at -Shorncliff, they presented a fine coup d'œil. The rifle corps wore dark -green with black lace, helmets and long green feathers[5]. - -It is a strange coincidence, that these corps should have been so near -each other, (almost within sight of Napoleon's grand camp at Boulogne) -for the purpose of joining their efforts to repel the threatened attack -on the coast, and that, in after years, they should be united in a -series of brilliant victories gained over the French legions, during -a period of service, which, in future ages, will create wonder at the -extraordinary rise and fall of Napoleon in the centre of civilised -Europe; whose legions like an overwhelming lava spread death and -destruction far and wide; drove all nature into mourning, and converted -Europe into an hospital. - -Napoleon at this period had formed at Boulogne and its vicinity a -powerful army, which he hoped to be enabled to throw across the -channel by the end of August and effect a landing in England under the -protection of the combined French and Spanish fleets, commanded by -Admiral Villeneuve, who was expected from the West Indies about that -time to concentrate the different fleets in the French and Spanish -ports, to be composed of sixty ships of war destined to cover the -numerous flotilla which was also to be crowded with soldiers inured to -war. - -Every effort on the part of this country was made to frustrate such a -design. Martello towers had been erected along the coast of Kent at -certain distances, and thousands of navigators and soldiers were hard -at work cutting the military canal twenty yards wide across Romney -Marsh. Beacons were placed on the tops of the highest hills, to light -up, and alarm the country in case of a sudden descent of the enemy. -Fortunately however the hostile movements of the Austrians obliged -Napoleon to break up his camp at Boulogne, and march to oppose them. -The latter part of this year produced extraordinary events; Napoleon -was again overwhelming the continent by his military achievements, and -Nelson in a like manner, by his naval exploits, was clearing all before -him. These great commanders seemed striving to outvie each other on -their peculiar elements, and each won a great battle[6], and within a -few months of each other. - -During the autumn, the regiment to which I belonged marched to -Chelmsford in Essex, and was stationed there a few weeks with other -corps, previously to our proceeding to Norman Cross for the purpose -of guarding some thousands of unhappy Frenchmen, cooped up at that -place, and clothed in yellow (the prison dress) to expiate their -revolutionary sins by many years' captivity and exile in a loathsome -prison, cut off from their relatives and friends. - -Their necessities forced them to exert their ingenuity in making -various curious toys, which they disposed of at a very low rate to -enable them to procure a few comforts, to alleviate their extreme -wretchedness, which was beyond description; for want of clothes many -of them suffered every privation rather than be clad in a conspicuous -and humiliating colour; others were in rags and almost in a state of -nudity, having lost their all by gambling; and to so great an extent -did the vice grow, that many would even stake their rations, and every -trifle given to them by strangers, until, by their half famished looks, -they bore a resemblance to skeletons. - -The exterior of the prison was enclosed by strong wooden railings, as -well as the four interior quadrangles, in the centre of which stood a -circular block house bristled with three pounders on swivels, their -muzzles peeping out of square apertures (similar to the ports of a -ship) to play on the prisoners in case of their becoming refractory. -Generals Boyer and Rochambeau were, for some reason or other, in close -confinement; one of them played and sang most delightfully on the guitar. - -The barracks stood about east and west, occupied by two regiments, with -two field pieces always placed at the gates, in readiness to fire if -necessary. The high north road ran within about two hundred yards of -the west barrack. A troop of the 7th light dragoons[7] were quartered -near at hand to pursue those Frenchmen who might attempt to effect -their escape, which many accomplished by the utmost danger, and the -most unaccountable perseverance; sometimes by working under ground for -months, to excavate a way out of prison. One man, absolutely wrapped -in straw bands, dropped himself into a night cart, (which he was aware -would be drawn away that night) and he was pitched out with the soil at -the usual place on the slope of a hill; but, in his haste to extricate -himself, he was discovered, and brought back half suffocated. - -Many of the poor prisoners gave lessons in fencing; and while I was -once displaying the proficiency I had made in that art to an amateur -by placing him in a defensive position to ward off my rapid attack, he -unfortunately guided the point of my cane up his own nostrils which -caused him forthwith to ungrasp his sword, and apply both hands to -the wounded part. Being much alarmed at the accident, I stood at -a respectful distance from my friend, until the pain had subsided; -fearing that, under such torment, he might take signal vengeance on my -slender frame. - -The winter passed heavily enough at this dull spot, and without doubt -the best hour of the day was that when the drum struck up the "Roast -Beef of old England," the certain announcement of a well supplied -board, covered with massive plate, and groaning under the weight of the -choicest viands the season afforded. - -Early in the spring the long wished for _route_ arrived for Hull in -Yorkshire. When we were on the march through Lincolnshire, a sudden -thunder storm came on, accompanied by heavy rain, and we saw a poor -girl at work in an adjoining field; but, before she was able to gain a -place of shelter from the rain, a flash of lightning struck her on the -forehead and killed her on the spot. Her lifeless body was conveyed to -the nearest town, to her unhappy relatives. After the expiration of -a few days we arrived at Barton, where we crossed the Humber (seven -miles down the river) in the regular passage-boats to the place of -our destination, having experienced the usual comforts of a march in -England: such as good breakfasts, dinners, and a comfortable feather -bed every night. - -Soon after our arrival a detachment was ordered to take charge of some -batteries on the right bank of the Humber in Lincolnshire, no great -distance from Grimsby; and, for the good of my morals, I was selected -for that duty, it being considered by excellent judges that so populous -a town as Hull afforded too many temptations for one so young as -myself. Every movement to me was a source of pleasure; already my new -abode was anticipated, and some highly romantic spot pictured to my -imagination. A fancied governor too, surrounded by the inhabitants of -the adjacent country looking up with that respect so flattering to one -placed in so responsible a situation! - -The hour of my departure was hailed with joy, and I eagerly jumped on -board a small packet procured for the transport of myself and party. -The sails being spread out, I felt a secret wish that my brother and -another officer had not been on board, so that I might have entered -into my important avocations without further delay. We had glided a -short way on our course, when the wind changed, and became adverse, -and, after a few tacks, I lost my vivacity, my countenance turned -pale, and my brother remarked that I was sea-sick. "How can that be," -faintly replied I, "when we are only in a river;" although it must be -acknowledged that, owing to its proximity to the sea, the water was -sufficiently agitated to cause some derangement in the stomach of a -landsman. - -At the expiration of a few hours' tossing, we anchored off a solitary -habitation, three sides of which were encompassed by a dreary marsh of -considerable extent, intersected with dykes. On landing, my companions -surveyed the surrounding prospect, casting significant looks towards -each other; and a half stifled laugh followed at my dejected amazement, -as I contemplated the prospect before me, wondering how the coming six -months were to be employed, or myself to be amused, in this swamp, -whitened by innumerable flocks of sea gulls. On entering the boat house -I sat down with little appetite to partake of some eggs and bacon, that -being the best fare to be procured. My companions made a hearty meal, -and, having swallowed a couple of tumblers of brandy and water, took -their departure with a fair wind, leaving me to make the best of my -way, over a pathless waste, in the direction of a small wooden building -rearing its chimnies just above an earth entrenchment decorated by four -heavy cannons mounted _en barbette_, and a bare pole in the centre by -way of a flag staff. The soldiers preceding me were a short way in -front. In vain I strained my eyes in search of a second habitation, -to cheer this monotonous scene; night was fast drawing to a close, and -the disagreeable Humber and its muddy banks disappearing from my view, -amidst a drizzling rain. - -On entering the room allotted for my use, I seated myself on my baggage -in no very cheerful mood, waiting the delivery of coals and candles, -while my servant was busily employed mopping the floor. In the morning -the men were placed at the guns, armed with rammers and handspikes, to -learn to load, elevate, and traverse, so as to fire in case any French -ships might enter the river, to disturb the whalers anchored off Hull. - -A printed board of orders nailed to the wall at the extremity of my -room shewed me the necessity of visiting another battery under my -charge (at stated periods) distant six miles up the river. I was -also informed that I had a horse at my service; but, when the animal -was brought forward, all hopes of a ride vanished, he proving lame -of a leg, very old, and his coat sticking up like the bristles of a -porcupine. - -My instructions also specified that every Sunday the detachment was to -attend divine service, at a church situated inland on a gentle rise, -shrouded by trees, about two miles from the battery, which was to be -left in charge of a corporal's guard. - -The sixth day happened to be the sabbath; the weather was propitious. -I therefore decorated myself in hopes of getting a glimpse of some -flowing drapery at the distant hamlet. On our arrival the bell -was tolling, and a few infirm individuals were creeping into the -old church. As the service had not begun, I squatted myself on a -hay-cock—for the grass of this church yard was turned to account, and, -as far as I could judge, was as fine a crop as any around. - -At length the bell ceased to reverberate, and I was about to enter -the decayed doors of the church, when on raising my eyes I beheld a -young lady of lovely face and form, stationary, with one foot placed -on the top of the style (leading into the church-yard) and with her -eyes apparently fixed in the direction of where I stood. She evinced an -animation, which I shall long remember; for my heart began to beat with -the most joyful anticipations. She passed close to me, while I remained -fixed, and gazing on her with transported admiration. I soon followed, -and was placed in a pew exactly opposite to her. Her raven tresses hung -carelessly from under a little blue silk hat. Her cheeks vied with the -roses, and the lustre of her sparkling black eyes pierced the inmost -recesses of my beating heart. Before the service was concluded, we were -both holding down our heads laughing; and the only excuse for such -indecorous conduct, (if any can be offered), was our youth—for she was -only sixteen, and I was half a year younger. - -Two days after, I wandered towards the village; the peasants had gone -forth to their daily labour. On looking about, I could see but one -house likely to contain the object of my secret regard. It was a large -old building encompassed by an extensive field in the shape of a park. -However, I fancied this was not her dwelling, as she had entered the -church yard from quite a contrary direction. Having wandered some -time without encountering a single person of whom I could make any -inquiries, I at last felt convinced that the fair object of my search -had come from a distant village, and that I should not again behold her -fascinating smiles. - -In retracing my steps from thence, the marsh became doubly odious to my -sight; however, on the following Sunday, I placed myself on the same -spot in the church yard, with my eyes steadfastly fixed on the style. -The bell ceased to toll, the church doors closed, the service had -begun, but my _belle_ did not appear; and I now in real earnest began -to consider myself a perfect exile, not having exchanged a syllable -with any one save my servant (or when giving some trifling orders) for -thirteen days. The next morning I started on foot to visit the other -fort (mounting two guns, with a garrison of one serjeant, a gunner, and -fourteen men,) to be assured that the lame horse had safely carried -their provisions, and to see that the defences had not been washed away -during the last spring tide. After a toilsome walk of no inconsiderable -distance, along a dyke, overrun with long grass nearly up to my middle, -I returned, well tired, and perfectly cooled in my governorship. - -The next day I made towards the hamlet, being determined to summon up -resolution, and make inquiries at some cottage, or to endeavour to find -out from whence came the sole object of my thoughts. On my accosting an -old woman, who very civilly answered all my inquiries, she communicated -that the young lady was a gentleman farmer's daughter; expatiating -upon her beauty and amiability, and concluded by remarking, that she -supposed by this time she must have returned to school beyond Lincoln, -as she had not seen her for some days. She then informed me that, when -at home, the young lady resided in the large mansion already described. -Having now gained the long wished information, I wandered towards the -spot, and espied a figure clad in white standing at the door of a -cottage, at no great distance from the large house. - -I instantly made my way across the field, full of doubts and fears, -and when, within a short distance, I could distinguish the same -figure, and the charming countenance I was in quest of,—I hesitated, -being fearful that the object of my search might vanish. At length -with a palpitating heart, and extremely confused, I found myself -opposite the _brunette_. I attempted to speak, but, alas! my words -were unintelligible; she smiled, and I was rooted to the spot,—she -retreated backwards; her eyes, acting like load stars, drew me forward. -I stumbled over the doorsill, and found myself in a small room in the -interior of the cottage. At the extremity of it sat an ancient dame -at her spinning wheel, who, looking through her spectacles at me, -regarded so small a figure, in a rich scarlet uniform, with a degree of -good-natured surprise. - -Some moments elapsed before any one of this trio broke silence. My -_incognita_ blushed and cast the kindest regards towards her old nurse, -who looked alternately towards us for some explanation; but, finding -little chance of any from our confusion, she broke the awkward silence -by requesting to know my pleasure? In reply, I stammered out, that I -had lost my way; she instantly arose, and offered the assistance of her -son, to conduct me into the right road; but my _chère amie_ now found -her voice, and stopped her short, by offering her services to point -out the way for me herself; and, almost in the same breath, asked me -if I did not feel considerably fatigued after so long a walk? Then, -entering into conversation, the hours flew away imperceptibly, until -the old dame reminded her of her unusually long absence from home, -which might induce her mamma to send some one in search of her; we -thereupon parted seemingly equally pleased with each other, and with -an agreement to continue our acquaintance. To my eyes the marsh now no -longer presented a dreary waste; my heart was as light as a feather; I -bounded over planks and ditches, for hedges there were none. Even the -odious twenty-four pounders I could have turned to use, by loading them -up to the muzzles with grape shot, against all pirates or rivals; and -I do verily believe that had it not been for the presence of an old -steady gunner, I should really have fired a salute on the occasion. - -I ordered tea to be prepared, and my fire made up. I then opened a -box filled with books that day forwarded to me from Hull with a note -from my brother, saying, that according to my wishes he had sent some -novels, and also a few volumes of the _Roman History_, with his strict -injunctions not to neglect the perusal of the latter in particular. - -The first book I extracted was a deep romance; and the pages were -eagerly devoured with all those transports so natural to youthful -minds. It was soon conveyed for the perusal of my _chère amie_; for in -truth the _Roman History_ had never entered my head. - -A fresh supply being soon necessary, the box was returned, and the -history kept as a reserve, and, like many other reserves, it was never -brought into action. After a short acquaintance, my little _belle_ -intimated to me, that I might expect an invitation when her papa (who -abominated the red coats, great and small) should make his annual -excursion. It struck me that a dark lantern might be of great utility -during such parties as I might chance to attend. I therefore begged of -my brother that one might be purchased for me, which was accordingly -done, although such a request somewhat excited his surprise; however, -on reflection, the extensive prospect he had previously surveyed the -day he conducted me to my lonely abode, soon convinced him that a -nightly tramp would be out of the question, and he set my request down -to the effect of the romances I had recently perused. At length the -time of papa's departure was announced to me, with an invitation from -mamma to take tea with her: and, on the appointed night, having secured -my barrack room door, I walked a short distance, and turned my dark -lantern, to enable me to explore my way over a path intersected by -numerous ditches. - -On my arrival near the gate at the end of an enclosure, leading to the -house, the rays of my lantern fell on a figure all in white. I made a -sudden stop, and opened my eyes to their full extent, to satisfy myself -what so strange an appearance could be, so late, and at so lonely a -spot; for various confused ideas crossed my mind, my fancy was worked -up to the highest state of excitement, and a cold chill ran through -my veins,—when suddenly the ground gave way, and I was immersed -above my middle in water in a ditch, the edge of which had given way. -During my alarm, while I was endeavouring to extricate myself from my -awkward situation, the figure moved towards me and I scrambled out of -the ditch, covered with duck weed. As a last resort I summoned up my -remaining courage, and demanded in a loud voice, or rather screech, -"What are you?" when a plaintive voice answered, "It is I." and the -speaker instantly vanished. - -After looking cautiously around, in apprehension of making another -false step and getting a second ducking, I explored my way with -considerable difficulty to the house, absolutely following the -direction of the supposed phantom. There I found my new friend waiting -for me at the door much alarmed, who informed me she had seen the -light of my lantern gradually approaching, and had ventured to meet me; -but the hearing the souse, and such a strange salute in total darkness, -had so terrified her, that a hasty flight had been the consequence. - -Her mamma had waited tea some time, and on entering the room I -perceived that she was in full dress and highly rouged; I was -introduced to her, wet through, and covered with a green weed, like -some sea monster. She laughed immoderately. What was to be done? A -change was necessary: the husband's clothes would not do. A huge -country girl being called in, while divesting me of my coat, suggested -that I should be attired in one of her young lady's dresses. This -proposal afforded mamma much diversion, who agreed to the proposal, -and I was led into the kitchen, to a rousing wood fire, blazing on the -hearth, under a spacious chimney. Here I was unceremoniously stripped -by the maid, who appropriated so much time to the adjustment of my -female attire, that her _jeune maîtresse_ demanded the reason of my -person being kept so long in custody by this Amazonian wench. My -toilette being arranged, tea and coffee were served up, and the time -passed in the most agreeable conversation. The night had far advanced, -when an unexpected rapping was heard, with the butt end of a riding -whip, heavily applied to the oaken doors, while a hoarse voice demanded -admittance in the well known key of papa: but to my ears the notes were -like the roaring of a lion. All lights were instantly extinguished, and -the back door was thrown open, out of which I was led into a poultry -yard, and from thence into a loft, where, seating myself on a truss -of hay, I waited in much suspense, while the heavy bars were removed -from the gate of the farm yard, to admit the squire and his horse. -His gruff voice soon died away; the gates were again closed and all -became quiet. Shortly afterwards a rustling noise and gentle footsteps -struck on my ear, when my _belle_ again made her appearance accompanied -by the before mentioned Amazonian _fille de chambre_, with my dried -_paraphernalia_ under her arm. - -Meanwhile mamma was left to conduct her bloated spouse grunting to -bed, quite overcome, after his devotions to Bacchus and the malt tub. -Soon after I had assumed the attire of my own sex, the crowing of the -feathered tribe announced the time for my departure, when, bidding -tender adieus, I rapidly stole across the meadow, and just before the -sun arose, I found myself once more within my camp bed—_minus_ my dark -lantern. - -I often bended my steps during these May days towards the peaceful -hamlet far removed from any neighbouring village, from whence a green -sod, hedged on each side, was the sole outlet or vestige of a road -winding into the interior, through a rich pasturage country; it was in -these rural shades, and unbeaten tracks, that my blooming companion -and I rambled at large, and, when fatigued, her old nurse would place -before us her best China service, and seem to participate in our -happiness. The summer months flew away, and my indescribable departure -was announced. I presented the hospitable old dame with a new pair of -spectacles, and she wiped her eyes. The Yorkshire-men buckled on their -knapsacks, the wind was fair, the bark cut through the water, the old -church vanished from my sight, and I again landed at the busy and -trafficing town of Hull. - -Here the merchants entertained the military with turtle, and such -feasts as their rapidly accumulated wealth enabled them to spread out -in gorgeous abundance. The card parties were crowded to excess, and -very high stakes played for; more particularly as many of the officers -were possessed of large landed property, and also displayed most -splendid equipages. - -The venerable Earl Fitzwilliam, who was the Colonel of the regiment, -was there, and when I was introduced to him, he asked me whether I -did not find the colours very heavy in my hands? My face instantly -coloured up; the fact was, I had been blown down, colours and all, -while at a field day at Ashford in Kent. The amiable nobleman, with his -characteristic kindness, took care that I should see my name in the -next gazette as a Lieutenant. - -After a very short stay at Hull, we were ordered to Whitby, Burlington, -and Scarboro', situated on the sea coast. I had the good fortune to -march to the latter town, with which I was much struck on entering. -It is compact, and situated in a valley, with the fine old castle -rising abruptly and commanding a bird's eye view of the town, and the -beautiful and extensive sands, which become so hard, that at low water -horse racing used to take place, and with great safety, as there is -hardly a pebble to be seen. - -This was a grand place of resort, where the healthy dames and their -daughters from the North, came to sip the spa, to flounder in the sea, -to see and be seen, and to listen to the mild sayings of strangers from -the south, while hurrying down fifty couple at Donna's rooms, with -rosy cheeks, and hair somewhat out of curl. One whole year passed at -this place in a continual round of amusements, such as balls, parties, -picnic excursions, gay promenades, and horse-racing. The band was -magnificently attired in green and gold; in fact, Earl Fitzwilliam gave -up the whole or the greater part of his pay for the benefit of the -regiment.—The volunteering into the line continued from time to time; -the greater portion of the men, being of large stature, entered the -foot guards, the artillery, and marines. - -The _route_ at length arrived; and on the morning of our departure the -band struck up, the bass drum beating the marching time, a signal for -windows to be hastily thrown open by many fair ladies _en déshabille_, -waving their white handkerchiefs and delicate hands, until a wind of -the road concealed them from our admiration. The sun shone brightly, -and, as we cast a lingering look behind, the venerable white turrets of -the castle and the sparkling blue sea foaming at its base receded from -our view. We had proceeded about ten miles over the bare wold, when, -our appetites becoming rather keen from the sea breezes, we began to -cast our longing eyes towards a small sequestered village, surrounded -by stone walls, and a few scattered trees, which proved a welcome -sight. On entering, we drew up opposite a small rustic inn, for the -purpose of taking breakfast:—the chubby cherry-cheeked maids flocked -around us, and became so elated at the sounds of the music, and at the -sight of the red coats, that in their hurry to lay before us such -provisions as the place afforded, they pushed and jostled their rustic -swains out of their way, who, while resting on their pitchforks looked -uneasy, as if doubting for the first time in their lives the true -constancy of their sweethearts. - -After partaking of a most excellent breakfast, we resumed our road, -and at the expiration of three days again entered Hull, when we soon -received an order to proceed to Bristol; we passed through Beverley to -Hull, then to Doncaster, Birmingham, Derby, Litchfield, Gloucester, and -Worcester, besides many towns of smaller note interspersed through this -highly cultivated country. Having accomplished a march of three hundred -miles, we reached Bristol. While passing through a town, an old woman -perceived the officer of the light company with a knapsack on his back: -she hobbled towards him, and addressed him by the familiar appellation -of "Sergeant;" he answered with a smile, "My good old lady, serjeants -do not carry knapsacks in this regiment," at the same time casting a -glance towards a few of that rank who had left theirs on the baggage -waggons:—the officer loaded himself in this way for the comfort of -a speedy change, on the march during wet weather. A number of French -prisoners were confined at Stapleton prison, about five miles from -Bristol. This duty we found unpleasant, having to tramp over a dirty -road in the winter, in white kerseymere breeches, for the purpose of -mounting guard. A most fatal affray happened here betwixt four French -prisoners, owing to a dispute which arose out of a trifling gambling -transaction. The two principals first engaged, having split a scissars -into two parts and tied the points to the end of canes, with which they -fought, one was soon killed, the seconds then engaged, when another -fell mortally wounded; in fact, both the friends on one side fell. - -We frequently visited the village of Clifton within a mile of Bristol. -It is beautifully situated, overlooking the river Avon, which -romantically winds at the base of steep declivities, decorated with -overhanging shrubs.—The promenades and balls were very fashionably -attended, and it was surprising to observe the superiority of manners, -costume, and dancing, compared with those of the company attending the -assemblies at Bristol. - -Early in the summer of 1808, we again moved, and passed through the -counties of Somerset and Devon to Plymouth, there to do duty over the -arsenals and more French prisoners. - -I had now reached my seventeenth year. One evening while rambling -about, I accidentally met an officer, and entered into conversation -with him, when I was not a little surprised at his making use of my -elder brother's name, in no very complimentary strain, and, as I was -aware that such sentiments could not be used unintentionally by a man -of the world, I made a suitable retort, and left him. On reaching my -brother's barrack room which was adjacent to mine, I found him poring -over a volume of Shakspeare, with his usual _theatrical_ delight, and, -not wishing to disturb his transporting meditations, I bade him good -night and retired to my bed, having given my servant directions to call -me the next morning early, which being duly executed, I sent a friend -with a message to the officer already alluded to, which he instantly -accepted; but, as the regiment was under arms much earlier than usual, -to fire ball cartridge at a target, it was agreed that we should manage -to get leave with our seconds, and fall out one at a time, so as not to -create any suspicion of our intentions. - -Our uniforms having been thrown aside, four of us proceeded some -distance before we could find a spot to suit our purpose. The usual -distance being measured, we tossed up for sides. I lost, and stood with -my face towards the sun, as no other level spot could be found at hand. -Having taken our ground, the usual distance (by word), we both fired -without effect: the pistols being re-loaded, a second discharge was -about to take place, when my adversary addressed me by my Christian -name, and said he wished the affair adjusted, so that all that had -passed between us should be forgotten, and that we might be the same -good friends as heretofore,—the seconds then interfered, and all was -amicably adjusted[8]. - -A general order appeared about this period, exploding hair-powder and -tails throughout the army. But, previously to its coming out, a most -ludicrous occurrence happened. An officer who possessed a very good -figure and a fine head of hair, had shown a great antipathy against -wearing powder, so much so, that it was only by a repetition of orders, -that he could be induced to use the puff, and even then it was so -sparingly put on his crown, as to be scarcely visible. One morning as -usual he appeared on the parade, with his head unwhitened; the captain -of his company not a little roused, at having so frequently reminded -him of his neglect of duty, again remarked that he was without powder; -when he carelessly answered, that he supposed a puff of wind must -have blown it out; which so incensed the captain that he forthwith -reported the circumstance. The whole of the officers being assembled -to the front, the culprit patiently heard the accusation against -him, and as coolly received the slight reprimand from the commanding -officer, who had no sooner finished what he had to say than the accused -officer fixed his eyes steadily on his captain, and, without uttering -a syllable lifted his cap slowly from his head at arm's length, -showing a head as white as snow, while his accuser stood petrified and -confounded, to the no small amusement of the surprised circle who burst -into an unrestrained laugh, joined in by the senior officers. The fact -was, that the rear of the company was close to the soldiers' barrack, -and, while the captain was in the act of reporting his junior officer, -the latter had run into one of the men's rooms, seized a flour tub -(used by the soldiers) and, with its contents, had covered his head, -leaving the side locks untouched as before. - -About this time, the expedition to Portugal put into Plymouth, and as -there appeared some probability of an opening for the British army on -terra firma, I felt an anxiety to enter the line. A commission was -promised me in a light infantry regiment, which I soon after obtained; -at this time Plymouth was crowded by Portuguese officers, that had fled -from their native country with the royal family of Portugal, who had -departed for the _New World_. Portugal being cleared of the _French_ -and _Spanish invaders_, the British entered Spain to threaten the right -flank of the French army under Napoleon, in the depth of winter, which -ended by Sir John Moore being killed, and the whole of the English army -re-embarking at Corunna. The different regiments landed in England in -the most deplorable condition, having been overtaken by a tempest, -which had scattered them over the face of the waters. - -The inhabitants of Plymouth received these troops with open arms, and -threw wide their doors for the benefit of the suffering officers; they -watched over their sick beds in the most assiduous manner, and supplied -them gratis with every comfort; such as shirts and shoes, and crowned -all this magnanimous hospitality, by advancing money to many of the -convalescent officers to enable them to reach their far distant homes, -in England, Ireland, and Scotland. But how different was the treatment -of the army (who had freed Portugal) elsewhere! A young and handsome -officer had landed at another port in a wretched state, bare-footed, -his feet tormented with gravel, suffering from a fever, and supporting -himself against a wall: then, creeping along in an exhausted state, he -was unnoticed by the passers by, until a sailor said, "Why, soldier -officer, you are aground, come lay hold of my arm: I will take care of -you." - -In March[9] 1809, I obtained my ensigncy in the line, and proceeded to -Colchester to join the second battalion of the 43rd light infantry. -When an officer entered this corps it was an invariable custom to -send him to drill with a squad, composed of peasants from the plough -tail, or other raw recruits, first learning the facings, marching, -and companies' evolutions. That being completed, the officer put -on cross belts and pouch, and learned the firelock exercise; then -again he marched with the same: and when it was considered that the -whole were perfect, with, and without arms, they began to skirmish in -extended files, and last of all learned the duties of a sentry, and to -fire ball cartridge at a target. The officer after all this was not -considered clear of the adjutant, until he could put a company through -the evolutions by word of command, which he had already practised in -the ranks. It generally took him six months in summer at four times a -day (an hour at each period) to perfect him in all he had to learn. -The drill was never kept more than an hour under arms, when, to a -minute, the time beater rolled his drum, the only one, (light infantry -regiments used bugles) in the corps; and the recruits were instantly -dismissed. - -The orderly officer of each company made out the daily morning state -with his own hand. Subalterns inspected squads on parade: the company -was then formed and given over to the captain, who, with the rest of -the officers, never quitted their company to lounge about, so long as -the soldiers continued under arms. The corps paraded twice a week in -heavy marching order, and the mess was equally well conducted, in a -system of style and economy happily blended. - -[Footnote 1: The grenadier company was composed of more than one -hundred men, and only contained _eleven men_ so _short_ as five feet -eleven inches.] - -[Footnote 2: Their code of military law, their pay, provisions, arms -and accoutrements were the same as in the line; and they often marched -three or four hundred miles at a sweep! In summer they went into camp, -or did garrison duty; and each company possessed a _bat-horse_ with a -pack-saddle, to carry the _iron camp kettles_.] - -[Footnote 3: Now the rifle-brigade.] - -[Footnote 4: Sir John Moore offered commissions to Lieutenants Booth, -Temple, and myself of the York. The two former joined the 52nd; but, -as my brother fancied that I was too young and as I was not my own -master, I was obliged to submit to his decision. Lieut. O-Reilly also -entered the rifle-corps and was subsequently killed on the river Coa -in Portugal; and Lieut. Booth was killed at the storming of Badajoz in -Spain.] - -[Footnote 5: The pelisse was subsequently introduced, and a soldier -clad in (green tartan) the highland costume, carried a small standard. -The three light regiments increased to seven battalions during the war; -43rd _two_; 52nd _two_; rifles _three_.] - -[Footnote 6: Trafalgar and Austerlitz.] - -[Footnote 7: Now hussars.] - -[Footnote 8: My brother and the same officer had a dispute eight -months after this affair. They met; and at the first fire my brother -received his adversary's hall through the upper part of his thigh, but -eventually recovered.] - -[Footnote 9: In that month the first battalion marched from Colchester -to Harwich to embark for Portugal with the 52nd and the Rifle corps, -under Major General R. Craufurd, and joined the army in Spain the day -after the battle of Talavera de la Reyna, having made a forced march -in good order, in hopes of participating in that sanguinary battle, -where they found the remnant of those men who had been left sick or -wounded (in the battalion of detachments) in Portugal after Vimiera, -and who had been engaged at the passage of the Douro near Oporto, and -at Talavera. The 43rd had upwards of one hundred men killed in that -battle; and of officers, brigade Major Gardner killed, and Lieutenant -Brown wounded,—the latter now commanding the second battalion Rifle -brigade.] - - - - -CHAPTER II. - - Scene of embarkation for foreign service at Deal—A character—Force - and objects of the expedition—Arrival off Walcheren—Siege - and capture of Flushing—Disastrous sickness among the - troops—Evacuation of Walcheren, with the author's adventure on - the occasion—The return to England—Napoleon's situation at that - period. - - -In June 1809 we left Colchester with other corps, for the purpose of -embarkation; our route lay through Chelmsford, Gravesend, Maidstone, to -Shorncliff barracks (in Kent) placed on the summit of a hill extending -to the verge of the white cliffs overhanging the sea, and commanding a -clear view of the straits of Dover, and the opposite coast of France. - -On the 16th of July we marched through Dover to Deal, where innumerable -boats lined the shore for the purpose of conveying troops to the -various ships anchored in the Downs for their reception. Large bodies -of soldiers were pouring into the town by all the roads to join the -vast armament about to rendez-vous at this point. Hurrying into the -boats, the hardy sailors pulled away: the beach and the bay were -covered with thousands of soldiers, intermixed with the fair daughters -of Albion, who had come from afar to witness this brilliant spectacle. - -The army was in a fine state of discipline, and filled with enthusiasm, -while the ensigns of many naval victories floated in the breeze from -the mast heads of those men of war, that had for years swept the ocean, -opened the whole commerce of the world to this island, and filled the -coffers of England with almost inexhaustible resources. - -We had no sooner arrived on board the York seventy four, commanded by -Captain Barton, than the usual bustle prevailed on such occasions, -which had in some measure subsided, when a large fat man in a small -boat was seen making towards the ship, dressed in light fawn-coloured -breeches, white cotton stockings and shoes, with a loose coat, -evidently of provincial cut. Coming alongside, he eagerly demanded -the number of the regiment on board, which proved to be the identical -one he was in search of; he then mounted the side of the ship with -breathless exertion, and attempted to bustle through the crowd of -soldiers huddled together. However, the butt ends of some firelocks -falling heavily near his toes, formed a sufficient hint to arrest -his progress, and he was much confounded at finding himself jostled -amongst such a concourse of troops for the first time in his life. -After waiting some time with intense anxiety, he at length succeeded -in clearing the way, crying out in accents of one whose patience had -been quite exhausted by hopelessness of redress, "Will any man in this -ship have the goodness to point out the Paymaster's berth? for really, -gentlemen, I have striven in vain to obtain an answer of the many -persons whom I have already addressed." A voice from the crowd replied, -"Why, there is no such thing,"—at which unwelcome intelligence the -countenance of the applicant underwent a painful transition from hope -to despair. - -While at anchor in the Downs, the wind blew sufficiently strong to -cause the unpleasant motion of the ship which produces sea sickness, -and, being one of the junior officers, I was not so fortunate as the -Paymaster, who had secured a berth, for I wandered for three days into -different quarters of the ship, in a state unnecessary to describe -to those who have experienced the heaving of a ship at anchor. A -midshipman about my own age kindly offered to provide me with such -accommodation as the cock-pit afforded, which offer I thankfully -accepted, in hopes of at least getting into a quiet uninterrupted -corner. I had scarcely entered the hammock hung for my reception, when -I was assailed by quantities of cock chafers crawling over my face, and -under the blankets, (the ship having just returned from a cruise from -the West Indies.) - -The prodigious armament consisted of thirty-five ships of the line; -two of fifty guns, three of forty-four guns; and one hundred and -ninety-seven sloops, bombs, and other armed small craft,—with an -army of thirty-nine thousand, two hundred and nineteen men, including -officers, all assembled in the Downs on the 27th of July, 1809. The -whole were under the command of Rear-Adm. Sir R. Strachan and Gen. -the Earl of Chatham, in conjunction. These Commanders sailed in the -Venerable at daylight, on the 28th of July, and arrived in the East -Kapelle roads, off the island of Walcheren on that evening; but, owing -to the boisterous state of the weather, and contrary winds, a landing -could not be effected on the Domburg beach. The other two divisions -of the fleet followed in succession from the Downs. The object of the -expedition was, to capture or destroy the enemy's ships, building at -Antwerp and Flushing, or afloat in the Scheldt; also the destruction -of the arsenals and dock-yards at Antwerp, Ternuese, and Flushing; to -reduce the island of Walcheren, and render, if possible, the Scheldt no -longer navigable for ships of war; with directions to the commanders, -should they not be able to effect all these objects, that after the -reduction of Walcheren, (which was to be kept possession of, and a -force left for its protection,) the remainder of the troops were to be -re-embarked, and to return to England. - -The island of Walcheren is thirty-four miles in circumference, -including St. Jootsland, and is situated between the mouths of the East -and West Scheldt, inclosed by Cadzand on the south, South Beveland -and Wolfertsdyck on the east, and North Beveland on the north east. -Our division of the fleet sailed from the Downs at half-past ten -o'clock A. M. on the 30th, and came to anchor the next afternoon, in -the East-Kapelle roads off Walcheren, when we observed the mortar and -gun-vessels keeping up a heavy fire on the small town of Ter Veere, -whilst a small body of English troops were lying behind the sand-hills, -keeping watch on the road towards Middelburg, the capital of the -island. Part of the fleet had already entered the Veere Gat, and had -landed a large force, with three divisions of sailors (three hundred) -the day before, at half-past four in the afternoon, on the Bree-sand, -a little more than a mile west of Fort de Haak, the fire of which had -been previously silenced by the gun-boats and mortars. The peaceable -inhabitants sent a deputation from Middelburg to the head-quarters; -the army advanced the next day, the 1st of August, and took possession -of that place, drove the enemy into Flushing, and took from them some -field-pieces. - -Gen. Sir John Hope landed his divisions in South Beveland the same day, -and took possession of Ter Goes, the capital of the island, which is -thirty-five miles long. The French fleet had retired beyond the chain -which was drawn across the Scheldt near Fort Lillo. On the 3d, a few -vessels were observed leaving Flushing; some boats were sent in chase; -the weather was fine, the wind S.S.W., and the flood tide nearly down, -which gave every hope of their effecting a safe return. The Raven -sloop of war went to their protection, when the enemy's vessels again -retreated into Flushing. The wind suddenly flew west in a squall, first -blowing hard and then baffling. The boats got safe off, but the fire -continued on the sloop for four hours without intermission, round shot -passing through her from the Breskens batteries, and grape dropping on -board from the ramparts of Flushing. She suffered severely in the hull, -masts, and rigging, and had two guns dismounted, the top-mast shot away -above the lower caps, the main-mast, bowsprit, and main-boom, rendered -unserviceable, the sails and rigging completely cut in pieces, and her -Commander, Capt. Hanchett, and eight men, wounded. Night coming on, -she grounded on the Ellboog; at daybreak two brigs were sent to her -assistance, and at seven she floated. - -The enemy were very apprehensive lest our army should make an attempt -to pass the East Scheldt, near Zandvliet, opposite fort Bathz, which -they attacked on the 5th with twenty-eight gun-boats, but were driven -off by the batteries. The weather continued so bad until the 7th, -the wind blowing S.W. and S.S.W., that the sea blockade of Flushing -could not be accomplished, and the enemy continued to convey their -wounded soldiers to Cadzand, and also threw one thousand men across -the Scheldt, one mile and three-quarters, to reinforce the town. At -half-past five o'clock in the evening of the 7th the enemy made a -sortie on the right of the line from Flushing, but were repulsed and -pushed back at the point of the bayonet. While all these things were -going on, our regiment had been removed from the line-of-battle ship -into small craft, and anchored in the Sloe passage, between Walcheren -and South Beveland. On the morning of the 9th, ours, the light brigade, -composed of the second battalions of the 43rd, 52nd, and the Rifle -corps, part of Earl Rosslyn's division (two thousand and twenty-two -men) were under the command of Major Gen. Stewart. He considered, -from the nature of the service we were likely to be employed on, and -probably cut off from our baggage by dykes and rivers, that small black -knapsacks, with brown straps, would prove of essential service to the -officers: for these we had paid half-a-guinea each, previously to our -leaving England. However, subsequently, as he expected us to carry -them at brigade field-days, some little discussion arose on that head, -behind a wind-mill. - -A day's salt pork and biscuit being served out, and all the officers -with their knapsacks strapped on their backs, we began our march; -the day was extremely sultry, without a breath of air; the road was -perfectly flat, as well as the whole face of the country, which was -intersected with ditches, covered with a thick ooze or vegetable -substance, and high dykes rising on each side of the way. The Paymaster -had joined the column, as the place of the greatest security. As -guns from the gun-boats were sounding at intervals, in front and -rear, we persuaded him that it was probable we might become engaged -without any previous warning, by a front, flank, or rear attack, which -information, added to the heat of the atmosphere, put him into such -a state of perspiration, that when we halted, a liquid stream of hot -water poured from his forehead, such as I have never before, nor since -beheld; added to which, his tailor had fitted his corpulent sides to a -nicety, although equal praise could not be bestowed on his hatter, who -had manufactured his cap so large, that it fell over his face like an -extinguisher, and the worst of it was, both his hands were occupied; -in his right he held his wig and drenched pocket-handkerchief, while -his left was in momentary request to disentangle his sabre from betwixt -his legs. "Well," said he, with a good-tempered smile, "if ever I -knew any thing like this!" and, notwithstanding his uncomfortable -plight, he cracked his jokes, and proved himself a man of more ready -wit, and possessing a greater fund of anecdote and humorous stories, -than any one I ever met with, so that he became a general favourite -throughout the regiment: but such a figure in a light infantry -jacket! such skirts, with pockets large enough to have stowed away -half the striplings of the corps! When the brigade was put in motion, -he remained in the middle of the way, as they passed him right and -left, and waited for the light waggons carrying our baggage; then -stowing himself comfortably away in one of them, he was brought to our -cantonments perfectly sick of campaigning. - -As we passed along, we were much struck at the great cleanliness of -the cottages, and at the contented air of the well-dressed peasantry. -The females were decorated with silver or gold ornaments about their -persons, and many of them wore a plate of the same metal across their -foreheads. The little boys of five or six years old held pipes in their -mouths, smoking with all the gravity of men, and wore their hair long -behind, broad-brimmed hats, brown jackets, short breeches, shoes, and -silver buckles, precisely similar to the elders. We passed through -Ter-Goes, a fine old brick town, surrounded by earth ramparts and a wet -ditch; it opened its gates without making any resistance to Sir John -Hope's corps. - -Continuing our march half a league farther on, we arrived at the clean -village of Cloting, containing a good church, and a handsome house in -the centre of it, which was the residence of the Burgomaster; we took -up our quarters in the different houses, and the men in the spacious -handsome barns, painted green, such as may be seen near gentlemen's -houses in England. Five companies of our regiment were detached to -another village. The humble dwellings of the peasantry bore an air of -comfort, and the abundantly supplied dairies, paved with well washed -tiles, presented a freshness seldom exhibited among the poorer classes -of other countries.—A considerable flotilla proceeded to Bathz, -where they arrived on the 11th; the enemy attacked the fort with two -frigates, one bearing a Vice Admiral's flag, thirty brigs, eight -luggers, one schooner, and fourteen gun boats; at the expiration of a -smart firing, they were beaten off, leaving six gun boats aground, five -being destroyed, and one brought in. In the afternoon of the same day, -Capt. Lord W. Stuart, commanding the Lavinia and nine other frigates, -availed himself of a light breeze from the westward, (notwithstanding -the tide was against the proceeding,) sailed up the west Scheldt, and -passed the batteries between Cadzand and Flushing; the ships were under -the enemy's fire for nearly two hours, without any material accident, -with the exception of a shell striking the L'Aigle, and falling through -her decks into the bread-room, where it exploded: one man was killed -and four wounded, and her stern frame much shattered. The Amethyst got -aground after passing Flushing. - -On the 13th, the batteries before Flushing being completed, and some -frigates and bombs having taken their station, a fire was opened at -half past one P.M. from upwards of fifty pieces of heavy ordnance, -including mortars and howitzers, which was vigorously returned by the -enemy; an additional battery was finished during the night, of six -twenty-four-pounders, (worked by sailors,) and the whole continued -to play on the town; until late on the following day. At half-past -ten on the morning of the 14th, the following line of battle ships -(anchored in the Duerlo passage) got under weigh: the St. Domingo, -Blake, Repulse, Victorious, Denmark, Audacious, and Venerable,—and -ranged along the sea-front of the town, led in by Rear-Admiral Sir -R. Strachan; but before they had opened their fire, the wind came -more southerly, and the St. Domingo grounded inside the Dog-land; an -officer, not knowing her situation, passed inside of her, by which -means the Blake also grounded; the other ships were ordered to haul -off to anchor as at first intended. The Domingo was soon got off, -and the Blake became again afloat, and came to anchor with the rest -of the squadron; the ships continued to ply the enemy with a furious -cannonade until four in the afternoon, when the town presented a vast -conflagration, burning in all quarters. The firing having nearly -ceased from the ramparts, Gen. Monnet, the Governor was summoned -to surrender, but he having given an evasive answer, hostilities -recommenced and continued until two o'clock in the morning of the 15th, -when the enemy demanded a suspension of arms, and within an hour the -Governor surrendered the town, (when two detachments of the Royals -and 71st regiments took possession of its gates,) and the whole of -the garrison, prisoners of war, besides those already taken in the -different forts and islands of Walcheren, South Beveland, Shouwen, -Duivland, Brouwershaven, and Zierigkzee, with all the valuable stores -therein. The loss in killed, wounded, and missing of the British, during -the siege, was about seven hundred and twenty, including officers. - -From this moment offensive operations seemed at an end: we were -surrounded with abundance, our days were occupied in the sports of -the field, our evenings passed at each others' quarters in idle and -pleasant conversation, pay was issued almost to the day that it was -due. Provisions of all descriptions were offered for sale at a very -low rate: tea, sugar, and coffee, were not half the price of the same -in England; wines, brandy, hollands, and liqueurs, might be purchased -for a mere trifle; and fat fowls or ducks for tenpence the pair. In -this land of plenty we were lulled into a fatal security, for, about -the 20th, the soldiers fell ill, staggered, and dropped in the ranks, -seized by dreadful fevers[10], and with such rapidity did this malady -extend, that in fourteen days, twelve thousand and eighty six soldiers -were in hospital on board ship, or sent to England; the deaths were -numerous, and sometimes sudden; convalescence hardly ever secure; -the disorders ultimately destroying the constitution, and causing -eventually the destruction of thousands in far distant climes. - -The natives now became ill, and informed us that one-third of them -were confined to their beds every autumn until the frosty weather -set in, which checked the exhalations from the earth, and gave new -tone to their debilitated frames, and thereby stopped the progress -of the complaint. Independently of the records of the unhealthiness -of these islands, where every object depicts it in the most forcible -manner, the bottom of every canal that has communication with the sea -is thickly covered with an ooze, which, when the tide is out, emits a -most offensive effluvium; and every ditch that is filled with water, is -loaded with animal and vegetable substances. If persons living in these -islands from their infancy, who practise a cleanliness that cannot be -excelled, and live in good houses, cannot prevent the effects of the -climate, it may readily be supposed how much more a foreign army must -suffer. The inhabitants informed us, that in the preceding autumn, two -hundred French troops were quartered in the village, out of whom one -hundred and sixty had the fever, and seventy of them died. - -Our landing had excited a great sensation in the north of France; so -much so, that numerous corps of the national guards marched to the -succour of Antwerp, only garrisoned when we first made our descent on -the coast with three thousand men, besides the eight thousand sailors -on board the fleet, that had retired up the Scheldt. Many of the -national guards suffered from the climate, and shortly returned to -their families with ruined constitutions. - -The town of Flushing, after the siege, presented a deplorable -appearance, with many houses burnt down, and most of them unroofed, -and scarcely supplying sufficient covering for the sick soldiers, who -continued to increase so fast, that ten inhabitants to each regiment -were requested to assist as attendants in the hospitals; the medical -officers were extremely harrassed, numbers of them became incapable of -attending on their patients, being themselves seized by the same fatal -malady, so that, as the fever gained ground, the doctors diminished -in numbers. At one period, four hundred and ninety-eight soldiers -died in a fortnight in Walcheren, which place the Austrians were very -solicitous our troops should continue to occupy as long as any chance -remained for them against Napoleon, who was at this time in the very -heart of their empire. - -Early in September, while at dinner, a sudden order reached us to move -towards the coast, when we instantly packed up and reached the beach -in two hours, where the troops began their embarkation. The captain of -the company, with agitated looks, ran towards me, and told me that, in -the hurry of moving off, he had left the whole of his company's books -in the corner of the room we had occupied, and that the commanding -officer had most positively refused him permission to fetch them. Under -these circumstances, and at his urgent entreaties, and promises to have -a boat in waiting on my return, I undertook the unpleasant excursion, -and, rapidly retracing my steps, I re-entered the village at a quick -pace, in little more than an hour; it appeared quite tranquil, as if -no foreigners had ever been amongst them. One or two natives only were -looking from their windows. A sudden thought now struck me that I might -be seized and made prisoner, which caused me much uneasiness; but yet -to decamp without accomplishing my object, was sorely against the -grain with me. While assailed by such conjectures, I entered the door -of the house that we had previously occupied, which I found open, and -saw the contented inmates enjoying a comfortable meal, nor did they -evince the least surprise at my reappearance. Without uttering a word, -and passing into the inner apartment, I seized the books, (the dinner -was still untouched on the table exactly as we had left it,) and with -hasty strides repassed the room where the family were seated, making -a slight inclination of the head: they half rose at seeing me loaded; -but not a syllable was exchanged between us. Some of the inhabitants -had now come out of their houses, and regarded me with suspicious -looks: I feigned indifference; but no sooner cleared the village, -than I started almost at speed, and had made great progress, when I -espied at a distance the light waggons and fat hollow-backed horses, -with flowing manes and tails, returning from the beach at a trot; -and, being aware that the soldiers were not very ceremonious on these -occasions, I was apprehensive the drivers of these vehicles might be -disposed to treat me in the same manner, or probably take me back as a -hostage. I therefore concealed myself behind a bank until they should -have passed by. Night soon came on, but I could descry the lights in -the ships' tops, and, in my hurry to follow their direction, I took -the wrong road, which led me into a field where it ended. However, -with the hope that a short way farther would enable me to reach the -beach, I darted onwards, and found a broad ditch impeding my farther -progress. It was in vain I ran up and down in search of a narrow part; -in almost a fit of desperation, I hurled the books across, one after -the other, tried my footing, retired some paces, and, at a run, sprang -across it with the greatest exertion, while a momentary joy gleamed -over my countenance, on mounting a bank, to find myself at the water's -edge. The lights were still stationary, but not a boat to be seen. -Owing to my great exertions and haste in passing over fourteen miles -of ground, I was in a profuse perspiration, which was soon succeeded -by a cold shivering, such as I imagined was the disorder incidental to -this swampy country. I feared that I should be left to perish before I -could reach the ship; a heavy dew fell, and I was almost perishing with -cold, having no other covering than my light infantry jacket, sash, -and pantaloons, without drawers or a waistcoat of any sort. Frequently -I was forced to run up and down to keep my blood in circulation, -and my teeth from chattering. In this manner, alternately sitting, -running, or casting my eye towards the lights, which, at times, and -in the exuberance of my fancy, I thought were receding, I passed the -dreary hours of the night. At daybreak, some sailors pulling in shore, -discovered my flying pocket handkerchief, and came to my relief, and, -after a considerable pull, we found the regiment on board the Ganges. -Then, giving my last dollar to the sailors for grog, I mounted the -side of the ship, and descended into the ward-room, where I found -the officers scattered about, and lying on a main-sail, that had -been spread out for their accommodation. Delivering the books to the -owner, I was fully determined never again to volunteer such a Quixotic -excursion. The officer assured me that all his endeavours to procure a -boat had been unavailing. - -The next day two hundred sick soldiers and officers were removed on -board small craft to proceed to England, and, as I happened to be one -of those for detachment, we left the line-of-battle ship, went on board -a transport, and steered our course for the Downs, where we arrived in -two days, and cast anchor for forty-eight hours, then again got under -weigh, and buffeted about for four days more, between the Downs and -Harwich, where we landed our sick soldiers and officers. When we were -stepping on shore, a countryman, looking towards us, exclaimed, "There -goes the King's hard bargains." - -The evening we landed, a fine healthy-looking young serjeant brought -me the orderly-book,—and, on visiting the hospital at ten o'clock -the next morning, I heard he had been dead one hour. So much for the -Walcheren malady! In fact, the most fatal battle could hardly have made -such havock in our ranks. Thus, in the short space of seven months, -the English coast had been inundated with sick soldiers and scattered -regiments from the Land's-end to Yarmouth. Walcheren was finally -evacuated in the end of December. - -Napoleon had humbled his rivals, had ridden out the storm raised -against him, and repulsed all his enemies. Pope Pius the VIIth had -indeed thundered forth a spiritual excommunication against him and -his followers at the beginning of the Austrian campaign; but he had -unluckily fallen into the power of his temporal master, who, seated -in the saloon of the Palace of the Tuileries, was meditating new -conquests, and weaving silken cords for the Emperor of Austria's -daughter. - -[Footnote 10: The sailors on board ship did not suffer much from the -malady.] - - - - -CHAPTER III. - - Progress of distemper on the re-landing of the regiment in - England—Change of quarters—Amusements—Colchester—An - eventful water party—The author obtains leave to join the - detachment proceeding to Portugal—A Review—A tale of - dental dislocation—Embarkation at Spithead—Landing in - Portugal—Incidents of an evening—Amusements at Lisbon, and - departure from that city. - - -The regiment soon re-landed in England, and marched to Colchester, -where a vast number of the men died, of ours as well as all the other -corps, thereby keeping the clergy in constant requisition to repeat the -funeral service over the rudely-shaped coffins of the dead soldiers. -Nearly the whole of the corps to which I belonged were laid up with -ague and fever, to such a degree, that those able to walk and the few -fit for duty were removed to Sudbury, for the benefit of change of air. -This proved very beneficial and restored the strength of those who had -not been very badly affected with the malady. - -At the expiration of two months we were able to muster again about two -hundred, out of six, fit for duty. Those officers whose health was -sufficiently re-established frequented the balls at Bury St. Edmunds, -which were extremely well attended by the neighbouring families; added -to these, occasional jaunts and a few private parties made the time -pass pleasantly enough until we were ordered to Weeley Barracks, where -we spent a sombre winter, (with two other regiments) which passed -without any occurrence worth mentioning, except that of the garrison -being called out to fire a _feu de joie_ in celebration of George the -Third's having reigned over this country for fifty years. - -In the spring we shifted our quarters to Colchester, being perfectly -sickened of our rustic amusements of shooting larks, skating, or pacing -up and down a solitary barrack-square of great extent, and surrounded -by a rich grass country, without any thing worthy the appellation of a -village for a considerable distance. - -Soon afterwards myself and another officer went to Portsmouth to -receive volunteers. The officers of a regiment invited us to dine with -them at Gosport, and so plied us with peppered turkeys' legs, devilled -biscuits and port wine, that we were unable to beat a retreat until -two o'clock in the morning. On reaching the ferry, there was not a -boat to be seen; wherefore, from necessity, we were reduced to content -ourselves with a seat on some stone steps, and there to await the -rising sun, whose beams no sooner crimsoned the western hemisphere, -than we hailed the first morning ferry boat, and reached our lodging, -right glad to quaff a smoking cup of coffee in order to settle our -stomachs from the last night's debauch. In a few days we left the -rustic vicinity of Portsmouth, and reached the red-bricked town of -Colchester, where our time passed in such amusements as are usually -practised at a provincial quarter and are so well known to most of the -British army, who have had the honor of promenading up and down its -_pavé_. - -One day a water party was talked of, and no sooner proposed than put -into execution. A boat was procured and rowers selected—the rest of -the party being armed with fowling pieces for the destruction of gulls -and carrion crows, or such other birds as might chance to cross us -during our acquatic excursion on the river Colne. The boat being put -in motion, after an hour's hard pull, the river became considerably -wider, the tide was on the ebb, the weather propitious, and so much -way made, that we resolved to obtain a glimpse of the sea, which soon -being accomplished, we pulled in shore, made good our landing, and -selected the most rural spot to partake of those viands prepared for -the occasion, which, being spread out on nature's green carpet, were -speedily devoured by eight hungry young officers, and every bottle -of wine and brown stout emptied to the very dregs. The party, full -of hilarity, then returned to their slender bark; but great was our -surprise to find it high and dry, the tide nearly out, and only a -narrow stream remaining of the spacious Colne water we had quitted a -few hours before. A launch being necessary, our jackets and caps were -hurled into the boat, and, by the most strenuous exertions, it was -shoved through the mud, and again afloat; then rapidly plying our oars, -we made some progress, notwithstanding that the tide was still running -out; when at length the water entirely failed, leaving us aground, -amid channel, with extensive banks of mud rising to a considerable -height on each side of us,—the sight of which afforded much mirth -at the idea of our having rowed during high tide over hill and dale; -so much for our geographical knowledge and nautical skill! While in -this plight, one of the party was in the act of divesting himself of -superfluous dress, and tying the articles into a bundle, pleading in -excuse that an appointment with a _fair damsel_ obliged him to land. -A noisy debate ensued amongst us: by way of intimidating him at the -same time, a threat was added, that should he attempt to desert, some -small shot should be discharged at him. While we were loading the guns, -he sprang from the bark and scrambled some yards, assailed by the -vociferations of the party; but, before he had reached the prescribed -distance, twenty yards, his situation became most alarming: every -succeeding step, he sank deeper into the mire; and he was now up to -his middle, calling out for help, forty yards from us, and one hundred -from the shore. To return was impossible,—the fowling pieces dropped -from our hands, as we watched his motions in fearful anxiety, every -instant expecting to see him disappear. Despair gave him strength and -perseverance: but he became a mass of mud, and his features were no -longer distinguishable. I can truly assert, that at no period of my -life did I ever feel stronger feelings of commiseration; a hundred -weight seemed at my chest. In this way he continued his exertions, and, -from time to time, while resting, it could scarcely be ascertained -whether he was not gone altogether, so identified was he with the -mud. Again he moved, and at the expiration of half an hour's toil, he -emerged from his miry bed, presenting the appearance of an alligator, -after a wallowing immersion, more than any thing else! As he reached -the shore, the most unbounded expressions of joy on our part hailed his -deliverance from his perilous situation. Then, spreading out his bundle -of garments in a very dirty state, he put them on, waved his hand, and -speedily vanished from our view—whilst we, less adventurous, or not -being so particularly engaged on that evening, were left shivering and -lightly clothed, until some time after dark, when we had sufficient -depth of water to enable us to steer our course. When at length in -motion, the wind being astern, the only cloak amongst us was hoisted -by way of a sail, but it was long after midnight before we reached the -place from whence we had started. - -About this time (June 1, 1811), three hundred and twenty men of the -second battalion, with a proportionate number of officers, were ordered -to proceed to Portsmouth for embarkation to join the first battalion -in Portugal. On the morning of their departure the bugles sounded the -march. My mortification was extreme, for positively the last officer -was selected to accompany them, and two of my seniors stood by my side, -who of course had a prior claim to mine, and who could not succeed in -obtaining permission to go; so that all hope for me seemed now entirely -to vanish, and we were obliged to content ourselves by accompanying -them a short way on the road, until their first halt,—the merry notes -of the horns striking up "over the hills and far away," the signal for -wives to be torn from their husbands, children from their fathers, -friends from their companions,—many bidding a long and last farewell. -The detachment followed the broad path of their profession, while we, -through dire necessity, took that which led to peace and pasturage -amongst the Essex graziers; but no sooner had we reached our quiet -quarters, than another consultation took place, between Lieutenants -the Honourable Charles Gore, Wilkinson, and myself, wherein we pledged -ourselves, that the trio should not be separated for individual -interest, (and, as I was the junior officer, that point was of -consequence to me); then hastening to the house of the senior officer, -we assailed him _ensemble_ by entreaties and arguments, until, finding -we were bent on carrying our point, he consented to forward a memorial -to the Duke of York, penned by us, which he signed. That done, we ran -down to the post office, popped it into the box, and by return of post -a favourable answer was given. What a moment! Gore and myself rubbed -our hands and the little corporal Wilky (for that rank he had borne at -the Military College at Marlow, and still continued the title), fell -on his knees and returned thanks to Heaven, for his good fortune. Our -heavy baggage was crammed into the store, and ourselves, with light -hearts, that evening proceeded to London. - -Notwithstanding the usual hurry and preparation when going on foreign -service, I managed to find my way to Wimbledon Common, where, I heard, -a grand review was to take place on the 10th of June of the household -cavalry, a brigade of hussars, commanded by Lord Paget, (now Marquis of -Anglesea), a brigade of the foot guards, a battalion of foot artillery, -wearing cross belts and white pouches, armed with muskets, and a -multitude of volunteers, besides a proportionable train of artillery. -When the Prince Regent rode down the line, I was much struck at the -Duke of York's preceding him, dismounting in front of the two regiments -of foot guards, and standing with his sword across his body, while his -royal brother passed. This was an excellent example of discipline, so -like the prince, the soldier, and the gentleman. - -The next day, leaving the metropolis, we arrived at the place of -embarkation, and so managed as to meet the detachment about the same -distance from Portsmouth, that we had left them on the road from -Colchester; being not a little anxious to observe the astonishment -that our unexpected reappearance would create amongst them. - -My friend instantly ran towards me and expressed the happiness he felt -at meeting me in such a way; and, almost in the same breath, said, -"Oh! we have had such fun this morning!" On leaving Chichester at the -break of day, the head of the column had been thrown into the greatest -confusion by the assistant surgeon; "Halt! halt!" cried he, "stop, -pray stop; you are trampling on my teeth," at the same moment throwing -himself on the ground, and groping in the dust for four artificial -teeth that had dropped from his mouth. The officers and soldiers were -confounded at his exclamations, while the wondering circle encompassed -him in mute expectation. At length, having put several questions, -to which they only obtained confused and unintelligible answers, -an officer ordered the men to proceed; and several voices, joining -in chorus, exclaimed:—"Why, he's mad; the doctor's intellects are -impaired;"—for they did not fully comprehend his real loss, owing -to his wild incoherent and extraordinary gesticulations—nor did he -overtake the party or make his reappearance until they had halted at -the half-way house, where he found them seated round a smoking tea urn, -hot muffins, toast, chickens, ham, and all those little delicacies -so tempting after an early walk to those possessing youth, health, -and _good grinders_. The woe-begone countenance of the doctor, on his -entering the room, caused a momentary commiseration; but no sooner did -he open his mouth, and display the vacant orifice, which no longer left -any doubt of the nature of the loss he had sustained, than bursts of -merriment, and noisy pity, were the only consolation the unlucky and -crest-fallen _medico_ received—who merely vented his wrath in broken -monosyllables, no longer daring to trust his mouth with a laugh. - -The Monarch transport of three masts, and of considerable tonnage, was -lying at anchor at Spithead for our reception. Nearly the whole of us -being embarked, and the Blue Peter flying at the mast head on the 18th, -there was a sufficient warning to the few left on shore to hasten on -board. The sails being hoisted, and spreading their white bosoms to the -gale, we cut through the water, with a spanking breeze, cleared the -Needles, and, steering a prosperous course, in three days were brought -into the Bay of Biscay. The wind howled, the vessel heaved and cracked, -one instant on high, and the next moment hurried downwards as if about -to be ingulphed and buried in the mighty waters; the huge waves lashed -and beat against her sides with foaming violence, whilst every loose -article rattled about the cabin; the strife of pots and kettles being -only interrupted by the smashing of cups and saucers, and other brittle -utensils. During this combination of sounds I lay in my berth, with a -wash-hand basin betwixt my legs, ready at a moment's warning, and with -my eyes, half-closed, fixed on a solitary candle, sliding to and fro on -the table, and threatening to extinguish itself into one of the lower -berths. Thus stretched out, and sinking into a disturbed and feverish -slumber, I soon again awoke with my tongue parched, a horrible taste -in my mouth, and my lips glewed together, counting the tedious hours -of the coming morn, till I should be enabled to procure a refreshing -glass of water. At last the happy moment arrived, my trembling hand was -put forth to grasp the liquid stream—my mouth opened—but my nose gave -warning of that which smelt and tasted like the Harrowgate Spa, and was -any thing but _aqua pura_. The next evening I made an effort to gain -my sea legs, crept out of the cabin, mounted on the deck, and slipped -and staggered towards a poultry-coop, on which I sank in a reclining -position, to inhale the freshness of the air. The dark and broad clouds -flitted past, and at intervals veiled the moon, which seemed flying -away in the opposite direction, and smiling in derision at our clumsy -progress, (with double reefed topsails,) over the troubled waves. -Perpetual motion seemed at last accomplished, as the bows and stern of -the vessels rose alternately, and in rapid succession. In the morning -a thick haze hung over the atmosphere, through which we could discern -the outlines of the ponderous mountains of Spain, rising one above the -other, until their gloomy shadows were lost to view in the interior. - -On the tenth morning, with a gentle breeze, and spotless sky, we glided -along the rugged coast of Portugal, and observed a number of barks -making towards us, decorated with white flapping sails, and filled with -swarthy raggamuffin pilots, who were hallooing, pulling, and hauling at -each other in a confused way, which gave the frail bark the appearance -of being about to overturn keel uppermost, and leave its brown visaged -cocked-hatted navigators floundering and splashing for their existence -in the briny waves of the dark blue ocean. Shortly afterwards we -entered the sparkling waters of the Tagus, skirted by purple-capt -mountains, curling vines, fragrant orange groves, and a white city, -reflected in its glassy waters, canopied by an azure sky, a golden sun, -and a genial atmosphere. We dropped our anchor within a short distance -of Lisbon. - -The following day, the 28th, we landed, and the soldiers took up their -quarters at the Convento di Carmo. The interior of the city by no means -corresponds with the exterior, as viewed at a distance, owing to the -general narrowness of the streets that are choked up in some places -with heaps of filth, continually stirred up, and eagerly devoured by -packs of prowling and half-famished dogs. - -Towards evening a small piece of paper was handed to myself and friend, -with the name of a Portuguese inserted, at whose house we were to be -quartered. Having made the necessary inquiries of a bragging native, -he pointed out to us the direction we ought to take, and also made -motions, by way of intimating to us our good fortune in having so -spacious an abode for our accommodation. Having traversed over a great -portion of the town, in search of our billet, we at length came to a -large gloomy-looking mansion, the door of which we found open, and -ascended a dirty stone stair case, where at each landing-place we found -ponderous doors: but it was in vain we kicked, thumped, and called; the -echo of our own voices was the only answer returned. - -Night coming on, we again sallied forth into the streets, and, while -passing near a church, we met a procession following a deceased -nobleman for interment. Large wax tapers being offered to us, about -four feet long, and thick in proportion, we each grasped one, and -entered the church with others. The lid of the coffin being removed, we -beheld the pale corpse attired in a magnificent satin dress, and mantle -superbly embroidered with gold: the pantaloons were of white silk, and -full satin rosettes were attached to the velvet shoes. A full-dress -court sword lay by his side, and a black hat of velvet, with a nodding -plume of ostrich feathers, looped up with a brilliant stone, rested -at the head of the coffin. His costume, in short, was similar to that -worn by Don Juan on our own stage. The ceremony being concluded, a man -stepped forward with a basket filled with quick lime, which he threw -on the dead body in the presence of the spectators: that done, all the -by-standers instantly retired, and gave up their tapers to persons -waiting to receive them at the church door. - -Much fatigued, we returned, and reached the cloisters of the convent, -in search of our servants and baggage. While we were debating on the -best method of securing a place of rest for the night, an athletic -figure came stalking towards us, enveloped in the garments of a friar, -having a fine dark countenance, and jet black hair cut short and shaved -on the crown of his head, about two inches in diameter. He demanded how -it was that we seemed wandering about at so late an hour of the night. -We briefly informed him of our situation, when he most courteously -invited us to follow him and led us through several passages and up -many flights of stairs to a couple of small bed rooms at the very top -of the convent; then retired for a short time, and re-appeared, loaded -with wine and sweetmeats. My friend had previously been in the country, -and therefore could make himself understood; and, as he was acting -quarter-master (at eighteen) for the detachment, he was glad of this -opportunity which now offered to be near the men, to enable him to -superintend the serving out of rations early on the following morning. -Our host proved to be the abbot, and after a short conversation he -wished us a sound repose to follow our sea voyage, and retired. - -During our stay at Lisbon, we made a point of seeing the handsome -churches, the opera, the grand aqueduct and other curiosities. The -night previously to our quitting this place, the Consul gave a ball, to -which we were invited; and I was surprised to observe the Portuguese -gentlemen in coloured clothes, with pink and various-coloured silk -stockings. The costume of the ladies was gaudy, but their dresses were -ill made and worse put on. We only danced one set, and, some hours -having elapsed without any appearance of supper, (which was of serious -consideration to us, as we were ordered to be on the banks of the Tagus -the next morning at day light for the purpose of embarking in boats -for Villada, some distance up the river,) I explored a suite of rooms -at the extremity of which I espied on a sideboard a huge dish filled -with wafer cakes: but, not wishing to attack such a prize without an -ally, I hastened to my companion to communicate my good luck, who, -without further ado, assisted at their demolition. Although they -were the largest of the kind I had ever before seen, our young teeth -cracked them with an extraordinary rapidity; smash! smash! they went, -and two layers had now disappeared, when a Portuguese attendant out -of livery, observing such dreadful havoc, advanced to their rescue, -assuring us with solemn physiognomy that they were reserved for the -ladies. Hostilities ceased on their protector's consenting to procure -us a bottle of wine, two goblets of which we hastily swallowed, and -instantly sallied out into the odoriferous streets. "_Agua fresca, -agua fresca_" resounded from all quarters, while buckets of the most -nauseous contents fell with a splash from the upper stories of houses -into the space below—like the bursting of water spouts. "Conceal -yourself," cried my friend, "or you will be scented and sprinkled -all over." In this manner, running the gauntlet at every turning, we -proceeded until we reached the dark and narrow flight of stairs leading -to our heavenly apartments, where we had no sooner entered than I put -my foot on the body of a man, who lay stretched at full length across -the doorway. I hung back, and we regroping our way down into the court -yard, and alarming the guard, lights were procured: the rays of the -lamp fell on the face of my drunken snoring servant, encircled with -bottles—having emptied the contents into his own stomach. From the -effects of this he had scarcely recovered at the hour of our departure, -leaving me the agreeable task of packing up, and seeing my mule safe -off, as the baggage and animals were to cross the grand lines of Torres -Vedras, and meet us at the place of disembarkation. - -Passing through the principal streets, we entered the boats for our -conveyance (after a stay of eleven days at Lisbon) and landed in the -evening at Villada. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - - March to Santarem and Abrantes—Scenery and incidents at - Aronches—Junction with some other regiments—Military scene in - a wood—Anticipatory reflections on the fate of some of the - author's comrades—Quarters at Portalagre, Castello de Vida and - Marvao—Bridge of boats across the Tagus—Contiguous - scenery—Horrors of travelling for invalids in the Portuguese cars. - - -Our animals and baggage having joined us the next day, we took the road -towards Santarem, and about dusk reached the causeway leading up a -steep hill into the town, where the French, previously to their retreat -under Marshal the Prince of Essling[11], had thrown the dead from their -hospitals into the wells,—the idea of which caused such horrible -thoughts, that we could scarcely summon up sufficient resolution to -drink while at that place. - -The excessive heat of the following day having somewhat subsided, -towards the cool of the evening we began our march, but, by some -unaccountable accident, took the wrong road for upwards of a league -before the mistake was found out. Retreading our steps, we at length -regained the identical spot from whence we had previously started -nearly three hours before; glancing my eye towards the battlements of -the town, a smile prophetic passed my countenance, that I should not -again behold its turrets. Turning our backs, and pursuing the right -road, we gaily tramped along toward Golegam; and, as the morning -dawned, I was loudly knocking for admittance at the door of a small -house, on the confines of the church-yard, that was strewed with skulls -which had been torn from the sepulchres and graves, in search of gold, -by the French soldiery. - -After the usual halt we pursued our march through Punhete to Abrantes, -where two of us were nearly carried away amongst the quicksands, while -bathing in the river Tagus, and only reached the shore by making the -greatest efforts. Various individuals had been drowned at this place by -the current. - -Having halted here one whole day, we crossed over the bridge of boats -to the southern province of the Alentejo, and entered Gaviao, where I -was billeted in a very poor house. At night I entered a recess, much -fatigued, and, upon quitting the mattrass in the morning, the bugs had -made such a feast on my right leg from the hip to the very sole of my -foot, so that I could scarcely walk, and was in a most dreadful state -of irritation. - -Passing onwards in our march, on the ninth day, we ascended a high hill -on the summit of which stood Aronches, commanding an extensive prospect -over a diversified sandy country, intersected with forests, vineyards, -rocks, and small fields of Indian corn, and encompassed by dilapidated -walls formed of loose stones carelessly heaped one on another without -mortar. The streets of the town were narrow, and almost deserted, with -huge shapeless rocks at every few yards, rearing their heads, and -blocking up the way, whilst a solitary Portuguese was seen striking -an old battered guitar with all his fingers (as on a tambourine) and -hallooing forth some ditty loud enough to be heard in the distant -valleys. The heat of the day was quite overpowering, the firmament was -of heavenly blue, while the sun shone forth in full splendour, forcing -us to retire to some shady spot from its scorching rays, and to take -some repose after the fatigues of the march. - -Towards the close of the evening we again stood on the ramparts to -inhale the cool and delicious air. The shades of night had scarcely -hidden the face of the country from our view, when the moon, rising in -all her grandeur, threw a pale light around, and tipped with silver -the battlements of those venerable towers built by the Moors, which -for centuries had endured, and had frowned defiance on the flitting -shadows of many generations, gliding by their grey walls unheeded -and forgotten. As we gazed in sweet contemplation on the surrounding -scenery, all nature seemed hushed, and the universe sunk into slumber, -when suddenly the bell of a monastery close at hand tolled loudly, -and in the gentle breeze, at intervals, we heard the solemn dirge -of a religious procession, which, by degrees, arose on the ear, and -gradually encreasing became louder, and swelled into such an awful -bass strain, as one might conceive to inspire reflection in the firm, -horrors in the nervous, and all the terrors of purgatory in the dying. -The long procession of monks passed us, wrapped in their sombre -drapery, as if they had emerged from the very bowels of the earth. The -scene was impressive. After we had retired, my slumbers were disturbed -by the horrors of the nightmare; and, when the merry rays of the sun -sparkled in at the windows the next morning, I felt as if delivered out -of some dungeon, longed for the camp, and hoped that, should fate cut -short my career, the sun and moon might alternately throw their rays -over my expiring body, rather than that I should die a lingering death, -surrounded by wax tapers and priest-craft, and then buried in satin -and gold, and finally extinguished by a basket of quick lime. - -On the 20th of July we descended into the valley, and, at the edge of -a wood, awaited the coming of the division, from an advanced camp on -their way to Castello de Vida. Every eye was on the stretch, and in the -distance we descried a cloud of dust rolling towards us, the bright -sparkling rays of the sun-beams playing on the soldiers' breast plates, -when suddenly the leading regiment of the light division burst forth; -their bronzed countenances and light knapsacks, and their order of -march, all united to inspire a conviction that their early discipline -had not only been maintained amidst privations, battles and camps, but -had become matured by experience. They had traversed mountains, and -forded rivers; the grim and icy hand of death had grasped many in the -unhealthy marshes of the Alentejo, and with sure effect had scattered -balls amidst their ranks without distinction: yet the remainder of -these veterans were still bent onwards, to gather fresh laurels in -the rugged and uncertain paths of fortune. Seven regiments of light -infantry and riflemen defiled before us with their thread-bare jackets, -their brawny necks loosened from their stocks, their wide and patched -trowsers of various colours, and brown-barrelled arms slung over -their shoulders, or carelessly held in their hands, whilst a joyous -buzz ran through the cross-belted ranks, as their soldier-like faces -glanced towards us to greet many of their old comrades now about to -join in their arduous toils after a long separation. A cloud of dust -alone marked their further progress as they receded from our view. -Following in succession, we brought up the rear. At the expiration of -an hour's march, we entered a wood, formed column, called the roll, -and the whole division was then dismissed. The assembled multitude of -voices, the tearing and cutting down of branches of trees, crackling -of fires, rattling of canteens, shooting of bullocks through the -head, and the hurrying of parties of soldiers for rum and biscuit for -rations, the neighing of horses, braying asses and rampant mules, all -resounded throughout the forest, giving new life and merry echoes to -its most intimate recesses. Groups of officers stood in circles; every -countenance seemed decked in smiles, and a hearty welcome greeted us -from all hands. - -Under the wide-spreading branches of a venerable cork-tree, decorated -with pack-saddles, accoutrements, and other military trappings, dinner -was served up and laid out on a pair of hampers, which served us -instead of a table. Beef, biscuit, tea, rum, and wine, composed our -fare, it being a usual custom to join breakfast and dinner, so as -to make one meal serve for the twenty-four hours, the troops merely -halting to cook and refresh themselves during the heat of the day. -A more happy meal, I can safely say, I never partook of; and with -infinite admiration did I regard the purple jackets and battered -epaulettes of my companions. Our small keg of wine being emptied, the -word passed to pack up and accoutre; and, in an incredibly short space -of time, the column re-formed. The "assembly" sounded (the signal of -march) threes, from the right of companies, the bands struck up, and at -the end of two hours' march, and towards nightfall, we entered another -wood. The same ceremony gone through as already described, the blankets -were spread out, the earth our bed, knapsacks our pillows, and the -overhanging trees our canopy; the busy hum of life no longer vibrated -through the bivouac, and thousands of soldiers slumbered and reposed -their weary limbs, lying scattered throughout the forest, or around the -dying embers of expiring fires. My companions insisted on stretching -themselves on each side of me, protesting that they ought to do thus, -as a protection against cold for the first two or three nights, since -a very heavy dew fell, so as almost to wet through the blankets, -notwithstanding the great heat of the weather by day. For some time I -was unable to close my eyes, owing to some insects flocking up my legs -in swarms, and creating much irritation. - -Let us, for a moment, withdraw the veil of futurity, and make a few -anticipations. On my right tranquilly slumbers a youthful warrior of -sixteen years old, and on my left unconsciously sleeps the other, one -year older. Lieutenant E. Freer is doomed to undergo two more years -of the toils of war, to suffer sickness and privation, and, at the -sanguinary assault of Badajoz, to receive a severe wound in the upper -part of the thigh; and lastly, at the age of nineteen, while in the -Pyrenees, a ball passes through his right arm, and enters his side: he -staggers, utters three words, and falls a lifeless corpse amid those -dreary regions! - -Lieutenant J. Considine, at the assault of Badajoz, receives a ball -through his body, and, stretched on the damp sod, enveloped in -darkness, bleeds inwardly. A light is held over his pale face, and -discovers the blood flowing from his mouth. Borne, however, to a place -of security, he recovers. The next year he is tormented by a malignant -fever, and afterwards, on the highest pinnacle of the Pyrenees, a ball -strikes him; his thigh-bone is broken near the hip: he cries for help. -I look down: he lies prostrate between my legs. The balls carry death -and destruction around: we are under the walls storming a fort, and -fighting hand to hand. Four soldiers attempt to carry him off, and, -not being aware of the place of his wound, hoist him up, and turn his -left foot outwards over his shoulder; by which means the thigh-bone is -completely broken asunder. His screams are dreadful, and two of the -soldiers fall dead, pierced with balls. The battle ended, he is carried -to a place of security, where he eventually recovers!—and he now -commands the 53d regiment. - -Early the next morning we were again on the road. The martial music -struck up, and continued to play for a short distance: the word -passed to march at ease: conversation then commenced. The soldiers -lighted their pipes; and, before the sun had reached its meridian, -we filed into Portalegre. The streets were marked off, in the first -instance, for different corps; then the houses, again, subdivided -amongst officers and soldiers; the latter portioned off according to -the size of the different dwellings; the butt ends of the soldiers' -firelocks serving as knockers, to rouse the sulky inmates, who would -fain plead ignorance of the arrival of so many guests. It was by no -means an uncommon occurrence for owners of houses to try all kinds of -expedients, by absence, paltry excuses, or otherwise, to drive away -the tired officers in disgust, who presented billets of lodgement. -One day, an officer on the staff had patiently waited some time at -a door without being able to gain admittance, until at length the -_patron_ walked up from the street and feigned civility, making a -low bow, and saying to the officer, "_Senhor_, I have no key;" when -the officer returned his salute, coolly lifted up his long leg, and -applied it to the door with such force that it flew open at the first -blow—then turning to the astonished Portuguese, said "_Senhor, tiengo -bon chave_"[12], and at a slow march and with clanking sabre, took -possession of the house. From that day he was known by the appellation -of _Bon chave_ throughout the army. - -Another division entered the town the same day. The army was composed -of eight divisions of infantry, besides cavalry and artillery; the -former force was known throughout the army by the following familiar -appellations: "the gentlemen's sons," "the surprisers," "the fighting -division," "the supporters," "the invisibles," "the never heard of," -"the all-sorts," and "the division:" but, before the end of this most -sanguinary war, they all fought again and again, covering themselves -with fame and lasting glory. - -The following day we proceeded to Castello de Vida, an ancient -fortified place within a league of Marvao. The first brigade entered -the town, and the second bivouacked in a grove without its walls. The -adjacent country presented a wild appearance; but more particularly the -latter town, which was perched on a rugged and stupendous mountain, -inaccessible on every side, save only one approach, and even that -impracticable for carriages, the road winding under the overhanging -shelving of rocks, others of which reared their rugged points in the -very middle of this (hardly to be so termed) pathway. A party of -us with difficulty ascended to this strange place, at a season of -the year when every particle of vegetation is parched and dried up. -The adjacent grey precipices presented a frightful wilderness,—the -hiding-place of innumerable wolves. The mind of the beholder on -surveying such a prospect became perplexed how so barren a spot, even -at the remotest period of antiquity, should have been fixed on for -any human habitation, far more for a fortification. Some cannon of -ancient construction were still on the ramparts, but few mounted, -and even the carriages of those mouldering to decay. Here and there -a few miserable Portuguese were observed basking in a sunny corner, -grouped and huddled together, and consisting of young and old women -with dark countenances, and still darker tresses, enveloped in shabby -blue cloth cloaks, and extracting _piochos_ from each other's heads; -that occupation being the greatest source of delight and amusement -amongst them. Their general food consisted of roasted chesnuts, washed -down with cold spring water—which caused their teeth to decay at a -very early age; and when they could procure a little dried fish, or -_sardines_, with black sour bread, they would consider it a point -of luxury. The extreme heat of the weather, and the exertions that -we had used to reach this spot, created excessive thirst; looking -round, therefore, in search of a house of entertainment, we espied a -leafless branch of a tree suspended over a doorway, which bespoke the -object of our search. On our entering and demanding wine, the corner -of a pig-skin was untied, out of which spouted the wine into a filthy -measure. It was strongly impregnated with the taste of the skin, about -milk warm, and exceedingly thick, owing to its having been recently -removed from a mule's back. These animals are usually loaded with -two dried pig-skins, sewed up and slung across a pack saddle for the -conveyance of wine from one place to the other—the muleteer being -astride in the middle, and, above all, singing a wild air, and beating -time with his heels against the bags. - -Quitting this isolated place, and returning to our quarters, we -remained there two or three days, and then resumed our march towards -the northern frontier. The first night we halted in a wood near -Niza. The next morning, an hour before day light, we started; and, -while passing over the summit of a high hill, as the morning dawned, -we observed a thick mist overspreading an extensive valley. As the -sun rose, its refulgent light pierced through the white fog, which -resembled a beautiful floating sea, out of which peeped forth the -tops of hills covered with investing shrubs. As the rolling mist -passed away, so these apparent islands enlarged, until nothing of this -enchanting illusion remained, except a bare country covered with _gum -cistus_, (a small tree,) producing a most sickly smell, and the more -particularly to those with empty stomachs. After a fatiguing weary -march, half suffocated by heat, added to which our eyes, nose, and -mouth, were filled with sand, we descended the pass of Villa Velha, -where we observed a number of vultures perched on the pinnacles -of inaccessible rocks, as if watching our motions, or waiting in -anticipation of more devoted victims. - -Crossing the Tagus by the bridge of boats, we bivouacked under the -agreeable shade of an olive grove. The surrounding scenery presented -every where a beautiful, romantic, and grand spectacle; the river -foamed over the rocks that had fallen into its dark stream from the -overhanging crags. The narrow road running at the base of the adjacent -mountains was filled with loose stones; woe, therefore, to the -sore-footed soldier who happened to stumble amongst them! Woe to the -sick or wounded to whose lot it fell to be placed in those Portuguese -cars, rudely constructed, with small solid wooden wheels, revolving on -an unoiled axletree, and causing an indescribable creeking noise to be -heard at a very considerable distance; sounds so horrible, that the -bigotted peasantry declare they frighten away the evil spirit of Old -Nick himself! - -The jolting of these vehicles frequently tore off the plasters, and -ripped open anew the wounds of the suffering soldiers; nor was it -at all unusual to behold the sick, wounded, and dying, with pallid -countenances expressive of unheard-of agonies, while these engines of -torture, drawn by a pair of bullocks, with their heads thrust under a -shapeless piece of wood, (for the purpose of yoking them together,) -rolled on their heavy way. The conductor guided them with a long pole, -with a piece of pointed iron at the end of it, which he poked into the -beasts' necks, and directed them by such sort of "sharp practice." - -[Footnote 11: Massena.] - -[Footnote 12: A jargon mixture of the Portuguese, Spanish, and -French languages was frequently resorted to in our anxiety to make -ourselves understood by the natives, and when one word failed another -was substituted. An officer who had just entered the country was -most anxious to procure an egg, and having failed to make himself -understood, as a last resource, he cut a piece of _pipe-clay_ into the -shape of an egg, and was instantly supplied.] - - - - -CHAPTER V. - - March continued—Wild and striking aspect of the country—Excellence - of discipline—Camp followers—Spanish peasant girls and - men—Plain of Fuente de Guinaldo—Reflections on a soldier's - life—A vegetable conflagration—Village of Martiago—Difficulties - of the French—Arrival in cantonments—The paymaster's - peculiarities. - - -Continuing our route through the town of Castello Branco and several -villages, we obtained to the left a view of the tremendous ridge of -snow-capt mountains of the Sierra d'Estrella. The barrier of bare and -rugged rocks towards the Spanish side, when gilded by the departing -glare of the setting sun, assumes the grandest appearance, and, in the -revellings of imagination, a thousand palaces of burnished gold may -be fancied amid these adamantine rocks, vieing with each, other in -height and endless variety of form. Afar off, an old monastery might -be descried, perched on the summit of bare and wild precipices; its -spiral turrets shooting on high, and encompassed by the immensity -of space; the frowning battlements overhanging the valley below, and -threatening to overwhelm the passing traveller with loose stones and -crumbling ruins—while the deep tones of the monastic bell chimed the -vesper hour. On a solitary eminence a lonely shepherd stood, tending -his flock, with a carbine slung across his shoulder, and a couple of -wolf-dogs crouching at his feet, their necks encircled by strong iron -collars bristling with long spikes, to protect them against the gripe -of the voracious wolves. All around seemed of other times in this -precipitous part of the country, composed principally of solid rock. -The rude hand of time had identified towns and villages with their -primitive stones; houses had fallen to decay, but nothing new had -arisen on the ruins; streets branched out, but it was no wise uncommon -to find huge rocks, of many tons weight, sticking up in the middle -of them, never having been removed, and leaving the traveller the -option of a choice of one of the two narrow roads round these natural -obstacles. - -As the division threaded its march over winding and difficult -roads, its horse-artillery might be heard rumbling in the rear, -while the winding notes of the bugle horns echoed in the distant -valleys. Major-General R. Craufurd commanded the light division. -His arrangements and regulations of march stood unrivalled: at the -expiration of every hour, the division formed close columns of -regiments, and halted for about ten minutes; the leading corps were -generally again marching off by the time the rear came up. When any -obstacles came across the line of route, each officer, commanding a -company, saw that they were closed up before he put them into the -regular marching pace, and that even if a break in the column happened -of fifty yards between each company. I have frequently witnessed the -whole division marching in this manner through a difficult country, by -which means they were always in hand, ready to engage by companies. If -a man found himself exhausted between the halts, the senior officer of -the company ordered him to have a ticket, which he was obliged to hand -over on his arrival in camp, or to shew to any one who questioned him -on the road as to his authority for being absent from his corps. - -The code of discipline was very strict; but every one knew exactly that -which was required of him, and, in the event of any irregularity even -on the line of route, amidst wilds and mountains, no matter where, the -column was closed up _instanter_, and a summary punishment inflicted -on the spot. This was far from harsh treatment: it was lenity in -the end; it preserved the health of the soldiers, by keeping them in -their ranks; it maintained discipline and concentration, the great -requisites in war; it prevented marauding on the inhabitants; soldiers -were debarred from coming to unpleasant collisions and assassin-like -encounters; and thus peace and harmony were established among those -whom we were bound to defend. The followers of the division (and of the -army) were composed of lank Barbary bulls and bullocks; mules loaded -with bags of biscuit, kegs of rum, kegs of ball cartridge, reserve -ammunition; a few hardy women (mistresses, or wives of soldiers) -mounted on strong and weak asses; Portuguese boys, drivers; officers' -milch goats; purveyors and medicine chests; and sometimes a few -suttlers, headed by a man better known by the name of _Tick_, owing to -his giving credit to officers in precarious times. This person, by the -bye, as a natural consequence, would lay on an enormous per centage for -small articles of luxury; disposing of bread itself at nine shillings a -four-pound loaf. Tea, sugar, and brandy in a proportionate ratio. - -On the 9th of August we emerged from Portugal, and passed Albergeria, -a village on the Spanish frontier. My astonishment and curiosity were -highly excited on observing the extraordinary difference between the -natives of Spain and Portugal, and that it could be possible, for -people living so near one another, to be so dissimilar in complexion, -costume, and manners,—even when inhabiting respectively the banks of -a narrow stream, which holds its course near the frontier of the two -kingdoms, being scarcely two yards wide, and only ankle deep. - -The merry Spanish peasant girls came forward with bold smiles and -strutting steps, greeting us in familiar terms, such as _Vivan los -Ingleses_; _vivan los Coluros, y Mil años a ustedes_; then pulling out -their castanets, jumping and saying, _den nosotros la musica: vivan -los Ingleses_. Others came running forward with pitchers, and, against -all rules, broke the ranks, insisting on supplying the soldiers with -water. Some of them were extremely pretty; their lively manner and -becoming costume made them appear to great advantage. Their complexions -generally are of a fine healthy brown, they have sparkling black eyes, -and dark hair combed back and tied in a knot with a bunch of black -ribbons, hanging down their backs; their jackets of brown or blue cloth -are laced up the front, and slit open at the sleeves, so as to display -a white chemise. Their petticoats are of various bright colours, -reaching just below the knee; and their stockings are red, blue, and -white, most fancifully worked up the middle of the calf of the leg; -their feet are remarkably small, with silver buckles in their shoes, -besides gold or silver ornaments in their ears and round their necks. -When going to church or visiting each other, they wear a black cloth -mantilla over the head, and held across the breast with both hands. -On entering a place of worship, they cross themselves quickly and -drop down on the pavement on both knees, looking very devout, unless -some object of attraction happens to catch their attention. The male -peasantry are hardy and well-made, but by far the shortest race of -men I ever saw in any other country, although their picturesque dress -gives them the deceptive appearance of a height which they really do -not possess. Their principal amusement out of doors is the game of -hand ball, or throwing an iron bar with the right hand a considerable -distance, and also pitching it betwixt their legs in various other -ways which may suit their fancy. On sundays and fête days they dance -_boleros_ with their village maids, who beat time with their castanets -and sing when music cannot be procured. That favorite dance is formed -by four or eight couple standing opposite one another, not unlike the -formation of a quadrille party. The male attire in the province of Leon -is a large _sombrero_, or broad-brimmed hat, with a wide black ribbon -tied round it; a brown jacket slit open at the sleeves; a blue or green -velveteen waistcoat decorated with two rows of long-shanked silver -buttons, and cut out at the breast, showing a white shirt, handsomely -plaited or worked, with a collar about half an inch wide, fastened -with a clasp. The belt round their waists is of durable leather, about -five inches broad. Their breeches are dark brown, stockings of similar -colour, with shoes and silver buckles. When they go out, or during -holidays, they envelope themselves in large brown cloaks, which they -throw gracefully over the shoulder, and conduct themselves with a -manner and deportment very far beyond the peasantry of other countries. -Their villages are built in a cluster round good churches, the body of -those edifices towering high above the small houses of one story high -that encircle them. The floor is usually composed of earth beat down to -a hard substance. There is no glass in the windows, which are merely -small square apertures, one foot by six inches, divided by an iron bar, -with a little shutter on hinges, which is closed at night. Their usual -furniture consists of a bedstead, wool or straw mattress, covered by -very coarse sheets and blankets, a table, two or three forms with backs -to them, a large chest with a partition for the double purpose for -stowing away flour and holiday apparel. Sometimes in winter a brass -pan with handles is used under the table, which they fill with hot -embers to keep their lower extremities warm. The only chimney in the -house is in the kitchen, where they use a small iron lamp filled with -_aziete_ or oil, and burn wood from their neighbouring forests; and -when afar removed from woods, and that article becomes scarce, charcoal -is substituted for cooking. Their usual food is sausages, garlic, and -chocolate, the latter made into cakes ready sweetened, but only used as -a luxury, and mixed so thick, that a tea spoon will stand upright in -it. The bread is extremely white, and compressed, without yeast, made -in the shape of a pancake, being ten inches in diameter, and about two -inches and a half thick, and weighing four pounds. - -The women wash by the side of streams, and continue to dip the articles -in the water, and then strike them on a large round stone, on which -they kneel, and, finally, lay them on the ground to dry; by which means -they bleach their linen very white. - -It is curious to observe a mother dressing a young child: after putting -on its petticoat, she rolls several yards of coarse cloth so tight -round the body of the infant, that a stranger would conceive it would -be unable to respire, as its little arms stick out horizontally. - -We continued our march over the plain of Fuente de Guinaldo, and within -half a league of that place took up our ground in a wood, where we -encamped, that is to say, cut down branches of trees, and constructed -huts; and although the canopy of heaven, or a rudely formed hut, for -months in succession, was the only shelter for the troops, the bivouac -resounded with merriment, and afforded frequent good cheer. For my own -part, I felt perfectly happy; my eyes and inclinations were directed -towards the front; I felt myself securely lodged on _terra firma_, and -no longer a sort of amphibious animal. I had escaped the dreadful fever -and mortality of Walcheren, nor could I well call to mind the having -ever experienced a day's serious illness. This was about the period -of the year when the sickly season commenced; but I flattered myself -that any impression on my unimpaired constitution was quite out of the -question; in fact, I never troubled myself with gloomy thoughts: a wide -field was now open, to which I looked forward with great anticipation, -little dreaming of the example that was about to be visited, in the -space of a short week, on my active limbs. - -What situation is superior to the camp? and what period of a soldier's -life is called to mind in such glowing colours as the days of youth, -when he was reclining under the shady branches of a forest oak, -surrounded by young companions in arms, with light pockets and still -lighter hearts, cheerfully talking to each other of glittering and -moving armies, and all the imposing grandeur and pomp of war?—or fancy -him nourishing the fonder feelings, and expatiating on the beauty of -some foreign damsel, by whose wit and graces all hearts are captivated; -while many another, more constant, indulges the fond hope of once more -clasping the native mistress of all his thoughts to his arms, on his -return to his own shores. - -Spain, of all countries, tends to produce in the mind the most romantic -thoughts, from the salubrity of its climate, its diversified scenery, -clear sky, and bright sun—a sun which shines throughout the summer -from morning till night, so that to those who sleep under the canopy of -heaven all days seem the same, and when summer closes and clouds darken -the atmosphere, the preceding season appears to the imagination as one -continued day. These and many other feelings are indelibly fixed on -the mind of a soldier, who closes his eyes on the highest mountains, -in the deepest vallies, in woods, in morasses, in dusty, parched, and -arid plains, or amid orange groves, luxuriant gardens, and beneath the -marble fountain; or amidst frost and snow—the inmate alike of the -palace, or of the peasant's menial hut—one night reposing on a bed -of down, enveloped by satin drapery, the next stretching his tired -limbs on the ground, or on a miserable bed filled with vermin—one hour -gazing on the sumptuous, light, flowing drapery and satin slipper of -the graceful _señora_, the next on the ruddy healthy cheek of the more -humble _muchacha_. All these opposite changes attend the soldiers' -career in rapid succession. - -But lo! dinner is served up and announced. A truce to reflections! -While we were employed handling our knives and forks, displaying a -hungry dexterity, and bolting morsels of unchewable ration beef, a -smoke was observed issuing from a valley, in the direction of our -outposts, a mile to the front, which continued to increase, and then -burst into a flame. A gentle wind blew towards our bivouac. The blaze -increasing, and extending with great velocity, the cry of "fire," -resounded from all quarters—"The camp's on fire." All was confusion; -officers and soldiers seizing their baggage, ammunition, and horses. In -the mean time, some tore large branches from the trees, and advanced -to check the devouring element, the dried corn burning and whizzing -towards us with the noise of a whirlwind; the heat was excessive; -opposition was useless; the trees of the forest blazing away like -a whisp of straw; and the whole brigade were _en déroute_, flying -to save their lives, by reaching the road, where the second brigade -had hastily formed, with boughs in their hands, as a last effort to -endeavour to repel this vast conflagration. Fortunately the wood here -ended, and the grass burnt itself out to the edge of the sandy road, -which was one of great width, such as are frequently met with in the -open parts of Spain. Had I not been an eye-witness to so quick and -extensive a devastation made in a short time, I could hardly have -pictured to my mind such a grand and awful spectacle. - -Taking up fresh ground for the night, we descended in the morning the -precipitous banks of the river Agueda, leading to the remote village -of Martiago, nearly at the base of the Sierra de Gata. On the night -we entered it, a pack of famished wolves devoured a donkey, and tore -the hind quarters of a horse away. The poor animal was found in the -morning, having crawled from his ferocious pursuers into the middle of -the village for refuge, in that miserable condition. - -Ciudad Rodrigo was to be reconnoitred. As convoys of stores and -provisions were expected from Salamanca, through the great forest, of -four days' march, between those places; and as Don Julien Sanches, -with his Guerillas, hovered about ready to cut off all small parties, -the French were under the necessity, with incalculable inconvenience, -to assemble their army, stretched over a great extent of country, to -keep the inhabitants under control, to protect their hospitals, levy -contributions, and to make perpetual countermarches in order to keep -open their line of communication. - -On the 11th of August, before daylight, our division was bending its -course over ravines, and almost impassable pathways, to show front -during a reconnoissance made by Lord Wellington, who usually wore in -the field, at this period, a small low-crowned cocked hat, a blue -pelisse coat, and a Hussar sash. - -The sun blazed forth as usual, (for not a drop of rain had fallen since -I had put my foot into the country), and biscuit and rum were served -out to refresh the exhausted soldiers; a humble refection which no one -would think of grudging to those who had been under arms for ten hours, -under a burning sun, and crowning the highest hills without a bush to -shelter them, or a drop of water to refresh their parched lips. - -With my rum in one hand, making a shallow appearance at the bottom of a -soldier's tin, and my mouldy biscuit in the other, I beheld an officer -approach me, in the act of drawing from his bosom an old ragged black -silk neck-handkerchief worn out in the service, and now converted into -a pocket-handkerchief. He fumbled it over for a whole corner to apply -his nose to; and during this operation, his eyes were fixed on my tin. -After a variety of hems, coughings, and such like indications, he took -courage to beg that I would permit him to dip his dry biscuit into -my shallow allowance of rum, to moisten his lips: his request being -granted, and thanks returned for the given relief, he told me that, -in the hurry to grasp his share, he had unfortunately upset it on the -ground, and had the additional mortification to see it dry up in an -instant. - -We were spread out rank entire within sight of the garrison, for the -governor to suppose our force stronger than it really was, so that he -might inform the Duke of Ragusa, and oblige him to bring up and deploy -his whole army, for the protection of his intended convoy. - -Late in the evening we reached our cantonments in good spirits, though -well tired, but not so much so as to prevent my making a good meal. -Turning into a small recess, and getting into bed for the first time -for weeks, after some hours I awoke rather feverish, went to the door -in my shirt to cool myself, and found the air so refreshing that I -continued stationary for a considerable time, certainly much longer -than my prudence ought to have dictated; however, I did not feel any -ill effects from it at the time. - -On the day following, our paymaster was encircled by a group of -officers, who were listening to his odd remarks, relative to warfare. -He declared that he hated _bullets_ and _swords_, but with fists he -flattered himself he was able to cope with, and would not turn his -back on any man. "Oh!" said he, "how I should like to see a fine -boiled leg of pork, and a pease pudding, smoking before me; why the -very thought makes me ravenous, and I could eat any thing, from a -gnat to an elephant; yes sir, I could eat an elephant stuffed with -militiamen!" Then with both hands, pulling his cheeks, his breeches and -his waistcoat, for in quarters he actually wore the identical dress he -had joined the regiment in; "Look at these," said he, "why they fitted -me as tight as a drum before I came to this cursed country; and look at -them now! Well, only let me get my wife on my knee by my comfortable -fire-side once more, and, if ever I leave old England again, may I -be ——! and as my poor brother _did die_, I wish he had taken his -departure before he ever persuaded me to enter the army!" - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - - The author is attacked by illness—Miseries of military travelling - in that condition—Quarters at Celorico—The author's difficult - recovery—Grievous sufferings endured by the soldiers affected - with fever in the sickly season—Death of the Paymaster—The - author rejoins his Division—Movements of the French—A clerical - case of disaster—The contested mattress—A dance—Expensive - celebration of Christmas—Story of the German suttler—Village and - neighbourhood of Fuente de Guinaldo—Theatrical representations by - the English officers. - - -Three days after our long reconnoissance I became blind with -ophthalmia, was seized with violent rheumatic pains in the soles of -my feet, and took to my bed. My legs and knees swelled to an enormous -size, first turning red, then blue, and I was no longer able to move. - -Many other officers became sick, and were ordered to the rear. I for -one, mattress and all, was shoved into a Spanish car. Our feelings -during the passage of the Agueda were indescribable.—Ye invalids, -stretched on your beds of down! comfort yourselves; submit to your -pains with Christian philosophy, and bless your lucky stars that you -did not belong to the army of Portugal. Rejoice that your very lives -are not shaken out of you by such ups and downs; first over one rock, -then over another, and dragged along by bullocks sometimes forced -into a run, owing to the steepness of the adamantine roads. I could -no longer bear the terrible pain. In my shirt, with my legs enveloped -in bandages of the car, I begged and entreated to be lifted out, -being quite helpless and blind. To get on a mule's back was quite out -of the question, my legs and knees were so inflamed. At length some -sick soldiers offered to try and carry or rather drag me from rock to -rock. First I got a jolt on one side, then an unintentional bump on -the other; the men were exhausted; and I entreated them to hold up my -feet, (while my head lay in the road), for I could not bear them on the -ground. At the end of the second day's tormenting journey, we entered -Castel Nero. The cars were drawn round a stone fountain, and while -waiting for our billets from the _Juez de Fora_, the howling of wolves -was distinctly heard in all directions, amid the surrounding woods and -rocks. - -For five burning days we travelled from morning until nightfall at -the rate of a mile an hour. Each night I was dragged out of the car, -mattress and all, shoved into some horrible recess that was almost -alive with vermin, and replaced in my uneasy vehicle in the morning -for the continuation of the journey. On the fifth day, when within two -leagues of Celorico (the place of our destination), we drew up, as -Major Ellers of our regiment requested that he might rest for a short -time, since he could no longer bear the jolting of his vehicle; in a -few minutes however he expired, and his body was carried forward and -interred. - -The heat of the weather was almost past endurance. On our arrival -at Celorico, with an empty room for my quarter and the floor for -my resting place, I remained sixty days nearly immoveable, my only -covering a filthy blanket, which had been stained all over from my -mule's sore back. On the journey it had been placed under the animal's -pack saddle to save its back, by day, while in turn I had the benefit -of it as a covering by night. In this miserable plight, what with -bleeding and blistering, and long confinement, I had become a perfect -skeleton, and reduced to the most wretched condition. Five medical -officers came to hold a consultation at the foot of my mattress, and, -having examined my now lank legs, and big feet, they assured me, -that they could not hold out any hope of a speedy recovery, and even -doubted whether I should ever again be enabled to straighten my right -leg, the knee of which had become contracted during the pains of my -rough journey. The staff doctors held out every inducement to persuade -me to go to England, by first offering a spring waggon to convey me -to Lisbon. My suffering had been great, my arms hung nearly useless -by my side, my legs refused their office: yet I still cherished the -hope, that they would again, carry me forward. Doctor Mac Lean most -kindly pressed me to acquiesce in their advice, but without effect: -(poor gentleman—I understood he died a few days subsequently of a -fever!)—how could I leave the army, whom I found amongst mountains -feeding on hard biscuit and drinking rum impregnated with the -mosquitoes? A pretty warlike story to recount at home! The very thought -was frightful! More bleeding and blistering were therefore resorted -to, by which means, added to a good constitution, at the expiration of -another month I was enabled with the assistance of crutches to reach -my window, the trellis work of which being thrown open offered me -ineffable delight at once more enjoy the sight of a few living objects -in the street. - -The rain now fell in torrents for days together, and thousands of -British and Portuguese soldiers (now crowding the churches which -had been converted into hospitals) were dying by hundreds, of fever -produced by the sickly season. The excruciating torments, suffering -and privations of the common soldiers were such, that an adequate -description is impossible,—many of them lingering in raging fevers, -stretched out on the pavement, the straw that had been placed for their -comfort, having worked from under them during their agonies, while -hundreds of flies settled on and blackened their dying faces: and so -stationary did these tormentors become, that those who still maintained -sufficient power were obliged to tear them from off their faces, and -squeeze them to death in their hands. Cars piled up, and loaded with -the remains of these unfortunate victims to disease, daily passed -through the streets for the purpose of pitching their bodies into some -hole by way of interment. The medical officers were overpowered by the -numbers of sick, and also fell ill themselves, so that it was a total -impossibility, notwithstanding their strenuous efforts, to surmount -all difficulties, and to pay that attention to all that could have -been wished. The very hospital orderlies were exhausted by attending, -burying, and clearing away the dead. These scenes of misery cannot -be fancied: the sick pouring into the town, lining the streets, and -filling every house, set at nought all theoretical conception. - -Our paymaster entered the town with a raging fever. His hopes were not -realized: he never again beheld his wife or his comfortable fire side. -At the end of a few days' anguish he expired, and was buried with the -rest. - -Captain Poppleton was the commandant at this station. Officers of other -corps held similar commands (with certain privileges) at _Belem_, -_Santarem_, _Niza_, and other towns for the purpose of regulating -quarters for the sick and stragglers of the army. - -At the expiration of four unhappy months I became so far convalescent, -as to be enabled to proceed to join my corps. I counted every step -forward which carried me further from the hated and detestable _dépôt_, -where every surrounding object depicted misery, and where, when the -_lively_ army happened to be in motion, such gloomy reports were -spread, as to intimidate the sick and frighten the convalescents out -of the country. Having passed through Guarda, Sabugal, and several -miserable Portuguese villages, at the expiration of five days I -reached Fuente de Guinaldo, the head quarters of the division. It -is unnecessary to say that a hearty welcome hailed my arrival, and -various interesting incidents, which had occurred since I left, were -related by my companions, but none were more agreeable to my sanguine -mind, than to hear that the division had not fired a shot during the -time of my absence; so far dame Fortune had befriended me. - -The enemy, under the Duke of Ragusa, had advanced on the 25th of -September to throw provisions into Rodrigo, and had attacked the fourth -division at Adea de Ponte, and part of the third division, who had -distinguished themselves against the French cavalry on the heights near -El Bodon, they having made several vain efforts to break their little -squares for two leagues over firm charging ground; little, I repeat, -because the regiments composing the brigade were very weak in point of -numbers. - -The light division was stationed on the right bank of the Agueda, -hovering on the enemy's left flank; but, owing to the central attack, -it was obliged to march _à détour_, so as to accomplish a concentration -with the third division at Fuente de Guinaldo. This was done with the -loss of one man, and that was the _parson_ attached to the division, -who had entered a house and turned snugly into bed, while the soldiers -were shivering on the ploughed ground with keen appetites. During the -night, the troops retrograded a short distance, suffering all the while -from cold. The march was much impeded owing to a trifling stream in -the road, and other obstacles, which the soldiers could not at first -surmount, for the extreme darkness. By some accident the parson was -not aware of this movement. Towards morning, while wrapped in the arms -of Morpheus, he felt a gentle tap, and on opening his leaden eyelids, -he saw four French heavy dragoons wrapped in white cloaks, with -weather-beaten visages and huge mustachios, (crowned by brazen helmets, -surmounted with tyger skins,) hanging over him in deep consultation on -the best way of disposing of his person. The debate closed by their -allowing him to put on his sable garments, to be conveyed a prisoner -to the governor of Ciudad Rodrigo, who, on being informed of his -harmless pursuits, gave directions for his liberation, so that he might -go in search of the English army. On his being conducted to the gate -of the town, the French soldiers rudely divested him of his coat and -waistcoat, using their feet besides, in a most unceremonious manner, -and left him to pursue his journey in his shirt sleeves. - -Although the house occupied by the officers of the company was small, -they declared that I should not seek a bed elsewhere; and one of my -friends assured me that he would soon supply me with that article. -Without further ado he hastily retired, and in a few minutes we heard -a great uproar in the street, and, making for the door, we found my -friend running towards the house loaded with a mattress on his back, -and pursued by a woman out of whose house he had taken it. Rushing into -the room breathless and convulsed with laughter, he threw it on the -floor, which he had no sooner done than the furious owner burst in, -and, laying violent hands on it, began to tug away, showering forth a -string of Spanish imprecations, too numerous to mention, but easily to -be guessed at by those who have heard such refined salutations from an -enraged Spanish _muger_. It was not until her strength had entirely -failed her that she would admit of an explanation; but, on money being -offered her, she turned away indignantly; and as she had not shown any -relaxation of the muscles of her brown visage, and her large black eyes -continued to express unutterable things, the officer thought it better -to reload himself and return that which, in a frolicsome moment, he had -carried off with so much dexterity; but the woman pulled it from off -his shoulder, and, with all the natural generosity of the sex, gave him -the use of it, (as it was for a convalescent comrade,) as long as it -might be required. - -A dance was to take place that evening. The officers, therefore, put on -their best uniforms, and decorated themselves with all the precision -and care used when about to attend a ball of a more enlightened circle. - -On entering the room we observed the females decorated in their -best attire and trinkets. The band struck up a _bolero_; that being -concluded, the male peasantry retired, leaving their mistresses to hop -down our country dances, and to instruct us in those figures we had -attempted to teach them. Generals, and all ranks, mixed in these rustic -dances, where a variety of little coquetries were practised on the -half-enamoured swains. The smell of garlic was scarce tolerable; but -these were no times for niceties. - -Every effort was exerted to do ample justice to Christmas. The -different officers' messes dined alternately with each other, to -partake of lean roast beef and plumb pudding. Poultry was procured; in -fact, no expense was spared. A four pound loaf cost a dollar; moist -sugar three _pecetas_ a pound, and every other commodity equally -expensive; still the festive board was well supplied, and the evenings -most joyfully spent. - -One of the suttlers who had taken post with our division, to amass a -fortune, was a German of ordinary appearance with a pretty wife. Here -it so happened that our serjeant-major, a man of portly figure, was -possessed of more small talk than usually falls to the lot of men in -his station of life; and, being remarkably fond of good living, and -other amusements, proved a very losing customer at the above worthy -suttler's shop, who could not help seeing the decline of that stock -which he had brought from Lisbon at so much expense; besides other -annoyances which he _could not see_. He, therefore, in a fit of -extreme irritation, without his hat, made for the commanding officer's -quarters, where he entered unceremoniously, and then laid bare all his -wrongs. "_Sare_," said he, "_your serjeant major is a very bad man. He -drinky my wine. He eaty my sugar. He drinky my tea and my coffee. He -kissy my vife, and he kick * * *. Sare, your serjeant-major is a very -bad man._" - -Every morning the officers were engaged rehearsing their different -parts, or superintending the making of theatrical dresses, (as the -tragedy of Henry IV was to be performed by various officers,) and -scene painting. The latter was principally executed by Bell, (the -assistant quarter master general of the division,) in an old chapel, -within one hundred yards of the village, which had been gutted of its -ornaments by the French or the priests. - -The compact and small village of Fuente de Guinaldo stands on an -eminence in an open plain, encircled at a certain distance by a number -of stone crosses, said to have been placed there by the peasantry to -frighten away evil spirits. There are no enclosures, no out-barns, or -farm houses, in this part of Spain, which gives the plain during winter -a very lonely aspect, skirted as it is by a distant wood, and a ridge -of wild mountains on the summit of which is a monastery, which is only -to be seen on a clear day; for if the weather is at all hazy, it is -enveloped by clouds. The communication from one village to another, is -a sort of track beaten into the shape of a road by the footsteps and -small traffic of many generations. - -The natives of this part of the country form a little colony, unmixed -by a second order of society, as there is no resident beyond the rank -of a peasant, the principal holding the authority of _Alcalde_, and -completely governing the village in all judicial affairs. He exercises -his power with mildness, which is perceptible in the independent -manners of the people. - -The girls sing very pretty airs in praise of some renowned chieftain, -or of her who happens to be the acknowledged beauty. Maria Josepha, -of Fuentes de Onor, was the happy _Moza_ whose charms were extolled -at this period: but what most struck my attention was a song about -Marlborough's knowing how to make war, and sung to the same tune -as in England. The mothers lull their children to sleep by it; and -when bodies of troops enter towns, or the girls dance _boleros_, -this is a general tune. I inquired of a _muchacha_ where she learnt -it; she opened her eyes with a ludicrous surprise, and made answer, -in the quick witty manner usual amongst the Mozas, "Why, of my -grandmother,—_Que edad tiene V. M?_"[13]—by way of giving me a hint -not to consider myself the instructor. - -The long expected night of performance having arrived, written bills -of the play having been distributed throughout the village (which was -filled like a bee hive with officers who had come from a considerable -distance from other divisions of the army, with flowing camlet cloaks, -and mounted on _boricos_, mules, and ragged-mained stallions;) and -tickets being issued for pit and boxes, we moved in Bacchanalian groups -towards _el Teatro_ (or chapel). It was crammed to excess, as we had -not forgotten to reserve some room for _los soldados_. The curtain no -sooner drew up, than the wonder of the _Muchachas_ knew no bounds, and -they became so loquacious in admiration of the scenery and dresses, -and in disputing among themselves which was _el Principe_, and which -the various characters the officers were to personify, that it was -a considerable time before they could be so far tranquillized as to -permit the performance to proceed, which, however, went off with great -eclat. "Poins, and be hanged." Alas! no. Poor Poins was badly wounded, -and blown up a few days after! - -[Footnote 13: How old are you?] - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - - Preparations for the siege of Ciudad Rodrigo—A review of the - light Division by Lord Wellington—The fort and convent of - Saint Francisco taken—Storming the breach—Capture of the - place—Regulations for the prevention of plunder—Disorders - committed in the city—Remarks and anecdotes connected with - the siege—Burial of General Craufurd—Removal of quarters - to El Bodon—Vestiges of the previous engagement near that - place—Ciudad Rodrigo consigned to a Spanish garrison—March - towards Badajoz—Castello de Vida—Fortress of Elvas—An - accidental acquaintance. - - -At the expiration of some months' travail by the engineer department, -in procuring stores from various places, active operations were -commenced to collect them near at hand,—such as the battering train, -cannon balls, ammunition, gabions, fascines, scaling-ladders, sand -bags, shovels, spades, pickaxes, &c.—for the purpose of laying -siege to Ciudad Rodrigo, (in the province of Leon,) which stands on -an eminence on the right bank of the river Agueda, surrounded by an -open country, and was garrisoned by two thousand French soldiers. The -walls of the fortress are rather more than a mile and a quarter in -circumference, enclosing monasteries, convents, and churches,—which -gives the city at a distance the appearance of an immense gothic castle. - -A few days previously to the siege, Lord Wellington reviewed the light -division on the plains of Guinaldo. He was dressed in full uniform, and -merely rode down the line, looking at the troops in a cheerful manner. -Just as his Lordship was leaving the ground, which was covered with -snow, General Craufurd appeared, and soon after the troops returned to -their quarters. The second brigade came from Martiago, and returned -that night—an immense march. A few days subsequently to this review, -the whole division was concentrated, the first brigade moving to La -Encina, the second to El Bodon. During this march a tremendous storm -of sleet and snow took place; the snow froze and adhered to the horses -hoofs, forming balls which raised them several inches from the ground. -Fortunately, the march was short, as fatigue-parties of soldiers were -obliged to return to prop up the weak and staggering baggage-animals, -that had suffered previously from bad provender. - -On the 8th of January, 1812, the light division crossed the Agueda, -_sans culotte_, (_a cooler!_) at a ford about four miles above Ciudad -Rodrigo. The day was fine, and, indeed, during the operations of the -siege, the atmosphere was mild for the season of the year, although -sometimes frosty of a morning. - -The division bivouacked for some hours two miles from the town. -When the darkness had set in, three hundred soldiers drawn from the -43d, 52d, and the rifle corps, moved under the command of Colonel -Colborne[14], to assault the fort of Francisco. The enemy fired about -two rounds; our good troops did not allow more time, and the fort was -taken. It was situated on a rising ground, six hundred yards from the -town, was of a square form, with two small howitzers, "_en barbette_," -and had a garrison of two officers and forty soldiers, who were made -prisoners. Six or eight others either were killed or escaped into the -town, where the drums began to beat to arms, and a furious fire of shot -and shell opened on us, while digging a parallel close to the captured -fort; the earth being thrown up on the town side. The land is arable, -and bestrewn with loose stones, which were flying on all sides from the -impulse given by the cannon balls, and the bursting of shells, which -were exploding on every side, killing and maiming many soldiers. - -The great convent of Saint Francisco, in the suburb, was carried a -few days before the storming of the town, and also the ruined convent -of Santa Cruz. On the morning of the 14th, about five hundred French -soldiers made a sortie from the city, and before they retired were -very nearly succeeding in entering the batteries, where the battering -cannon had been placed the night before. The twenty-four pounders were -of iron, mounted like field guns, on handsome carriages, painted lead -colour. - -An hour before dark on this day, the batteries opened within six -hundred yards of the ramparts for the purpose of battering in breach. -The first, third, fourth, and light divisions, employed in the siege -moved by turns from their cantonments, each taking a twenty-four hours' -spell.[15] - -On the 19th of January, the light division was ordered to the assault -out of its turn. During the greater part of the day we remained cooking -behind the convent of the Norbortins, a most splendid ruin, with very -extensive cloisters, situated close on the right bank of the Agueda, -three miles S. E. of the town. Soon after three o'clock we moved -towards the ground occupied by the foot guards, who were halted one -mile and a half from the suburbs of Ciudad Rodrigo. These troops came -forward to wish us success, and our band struck up the _fall of Paris_. -The third division occupied the trenches, and the garrison must have -observed the march of the light division from the ramparts,—extra -troops! The governor should have pondered on it! If he had kept a sharp -look-out, he must have been expecting the assault. - -There were two breaches effected in the walls of this town. By the -small breach the large one was taken in reverse. - -At half-past six o'clock the light division was formed behind the -convent of Saint Francisco, near the suburb, and almost exactly -opposite to the small breach, and about four hundred yards from it. The -third division, under General Sir Thomas Picton, was also formed behind -the ruins of Santa Cruz, and in the trenches opposite the large breach. -All was silent, four or five shells excepted, which were thrown by the -enemy into our left battery, and fell not a great distance from our -column. Now, if the governor thought that the assault was preparing, he -ought not to have fired at all from the ramparts, as it prevented the -approach of the troops from being discovered by the ear. - -I heard the town-clock strike seven, and at the same time saw a match -lighted in one of the embrasures—(very awful!) at that moment the -"forlorn hope," headed by Lieut. Gurwood, of the 52d, and the storming -party (composed of three hundred soldiers, with a proportion of -officers) moved on, carrying a number of bags, filled with dried grass, -to lessen the depth of the _fausse braie_ and the ditch. In a few -minutes they were on the brink of the ditch, and the fire of the town -opened briskly on them. There was a sort of check, but no longer than -might be expected, as they had to scramble in and out of the _fausse -braie_, and then to jump into the dry ditch; but having gone too far -to the left, the advance got on the wrong side of the tower, which was -not breached, and the soldiers, for a few seconds, were knocking with -the butt-ends of their fire locks against the wall, crying out "Where's -the breach?" for although the enemy were firing rapidly from the top of -the wall, still the troops, on first descending to the bottom of the -ditch, were in total darkness. This state of suspense lasted, however, -a very short time, for two soldiers, stumbling on the loose rubbish, -called out "Here's the breach," and Lieut. Gurwood[16] led up it; but -the French swore they should not enter, and fought most desperately on -the crest of the breach, throwing down large stones and missiles, and -keeping up a most deadly fire. Here many brave officers and soldiers -fell. General Craufurd received a mortal wound, and fell into his -aide-de-camp's arms, on the glacis, while cheering on the main body -of the division. Major General Vandeleur and Colonel Colborne were -wounded. How the troops contrived to force the breach I know not: I can -only say that it was well done. The breach was exceedingly steep: about -five yards wide at the top, having a cannon, of heavy calibre, placed -sideways, to block up the passage; however, there was a clear yard from -the muzzle of the gun to the wall, a sufficient space for one or two -soldiers to enter at a time, besides those who could pass underneath -the muzzle of the gun, or over the wheels of the carriage. - -The moment the division entered, a number of soldiers rushed to the -right, along the ramparts, to the large breach (_one hundred and fifty -yards_), and then engaging those of the French who were still firing -on the third division, absolutely drove them over the breast-work, on -to the large breach. At this time a wooden spare magazine, placed on -the rampart, exploded, and blew up some French grenadiers, and many -of the light division. Lieutenant Pattenson, of the 43d, and Lieut. -Uniacke, of the rifle corps, were of the number. This occurred just -behind the traverse, which, on the enemy's right, confined and guarded -the great breach. - -On ascending the small breach, directly after it was carried, I found -myself with the crowd. Lieut.-Colonel M'Leod managed to collect, with -the assistance of some other officers, on the rampart about two hundred -soldiers of our regiment, and was exhorting them to keep together. At -this time there was not any firing on us, with the exception of a few -stray shots from the opposite buildings; but there was sharp musketry -still at the great breach. - -I ran towards the large breach, and met an officer slowly walking -between two soldiers of the rifle corps. I asked who it was, when he -faintly replied, "Uniacke[17]," and walked on. One of his eyes was -blown out, and the flesh was torn off his arms and legs. He had taken -chocolate, with our mess, an hour and a half before! - -The regiment was now formed, and Colonel M'Leod immediately detached -officers with guards, to take possession of all the stores they could -find, and to preserve order. These parties ultimately dissolved -themselves. If they had not done so, they would have been engaged in -the streets with our own troops. - -Colonel M'Leod caused Lieutenant Madden, of the 43d, to descend the -small breach with twenty-five men, ordering him to continue at the -foot of it during the night, and to prevent soldiers leaving the town -with plunder. At eleven o'clock I went to see him; he had no sinecure, -and had very judiciously made a large fire, which, of course, showed -the delinquents to perfection, who were attempting to quit the town -with plunder, in the garb of friars, nuns, or enveloped in silk -counterpanes, or loaded with silver forks, spoons, and church plate, -all of which was of course taken from them, and was piled up, to hand -over to the proper authorities on the following day. He told me that no -masquerade could, in point of costume and grotesque figures, rival the -characters he stripped that night. - -The fire was large, and surrounded by the dead bodies of those who fell -in the first onset at the foot of the breach. The troops must have -rushed up and taken the latter without hesitation: had the governor -of the town only placed a few obstacles on the crest of the breach, -he must have stopped the entrance of the light division altogether. -He had time, as the firing from our batteries ceased two hours before -the assault, and then from the rampart there was a gentle slope into -the town, leading into a narrow lane, which was blocked up with a cart -only, leaving a sufficient space for one person to pass at a time. The -Governor was most culpable! There was no musquetry from any part of -the ramparts until the head of the light division column was close to -the small breach.—Amongst others lay Captain Dobbs, of the 52d, on -his back, at the foot of the breach, and stripped of his uniform. An -officer at first thought he was a Frenchman, who had tumbled headlong -during the strife from the top of the breach; but, while he was holding -a piece of lighted wood, to contemplate, with admiration, his extremely -placid and handsome countenance, even in death, a captain of the 52d -knew it to be the body of poor Dobbs. On lifting him up, the blood -flowed copiously from his back, a musket ball having entered at the -breast, and passed through his body.—A soldier of the third division -came up to me and said, "Captain Hardyman, of the 45th, is killed!" for -although three generals and seventy other officers had fallen, yet the -soldiers fresh from the strife talked of him; and if a soldier's praise -can add to a man's fame, certainly no one had a greater share than -Hardyman; he was the real type of a soldier, and kind to every one. - -When the troops had sipped the wine and the Cogniac brandy in the -stores, the extreme disorders commenced. To restore order was -impossible; a whole division could not have done it. Three or four -large houses were on fire, two of them were in the market-place, and -the town was illuminated by the flames. The soldiers were drunk, and -many of them for amusement were firing from the windows into the -streets. I was talking to the regimental barber, private Evans, in the -square, when a ball passed through his head. This was at one o'clock -in the morning. He fell at my feet dead, and his brains lay on the -pavement. I then sought shelter, and found Colonel M'Leod with a few -officers in a large house, where we remained until daylight. I did not -enter any other house in Ciudad Rodrigo; and if I had not seen, I never -could have supposed that British soldiers would become so wild and -furious. It was quite alarming to meet groups of them in the streets, -flushed as they were with drink, and desperate in mischief. - -On the morning of the 20th the scene was dreary; the fires just going -out; and about the streets were lying the corpses of many men who had -met their death hours after the town had been taken. At eleven o'clock, -I went to look at the great breach. The ascent was not so steep as -that of the small one, but there was a traverse thrown up at each side -of it on the rampart; hence there was no way into the town, as the wall -was quite perpendicular behind the breach. When the third division -had gained the top of the rampart, they were in a manner enclosed and -hemmed in, and had no where to go, while the enemy continued to fire -upon them from some old ruined houses, only twenty yards distant. - -I counted more than sixty-three soldiers of the third division lying -dead on the _terre-plein_ of the rampart exactly between the traverses -I have already described. I did not see one dead soldier of that -division on the French side of those traverses; but I saw some of the -light division. - -I saw General M'Kinnon lying dead on his back, just under the rampart, -on the inside, that is, the town side. He was stripped of every thing -except his shirt and blue pantaloons; even his boots were taken off. -He was a tall thin man. There were no others dead near him, and he -was not on the French side of the traverse either, nor was there any -possibility of getting at the General without a ladder, or traversing -a considerable distance along the ramparts to descend into the town, -and then passing through several narrow lanes, ruined houses, and over -broken stone walls being a distance of at least a quarter of a mile, -and what no human being could have accomplished during the night. It is -said that he was blown up. I should say not. There was no appearance -indicating that such had been his fate. Neither the state of his skin -nor the posture in which he was lying, led me to think it. When a man -is blown up, his hands and face, I should think, could not escape. I -never saw any whose face was not scorched. M'Kinnon's was pale, and -free from the marks of fire. How strange, that with the exception -of the General, I did not see a soldier of the third division who -had been stripped! Neither was there any officer among the dead, or -else they had been carried away. I should not wonder, (if it is not -uncharitable,) that the General had been killed with all the others -between the traverses, and that some _tender-hearted_, follower of the -army had taken his clothes off, and then just given him a hand over the -wall, and so placed him in the position described. - -The two divisions attacked without knapsacks. The greater portion -of the light division lay at the foot of the _small breach_ in the -ditch; hence it was that they fought on the slope, and rolled down in -succession as they were killed; but, on gaining the ramparts (there -being no interior defences) they followed the French right and left, -who retreated, panic-struck, into the interior of the city, keeping -up, however, a running fire from the different streets, or the massive -stone buildings. - -The third division, at the first onset, were fired on from the parapets -of the ramparts, and assailed by missiles and live shells, which were -rolled from the summit of the wall: but the enemy did not stand on the -crest of the great breach to oppose their ascent; for, if they had, it -would have been impossible to escape behind their traverses. The enemy -had left a space for one man to pass at a time, on the left of the -right traverse, but expecting the attack, they had previously blocked -it up with barrels filled with earth, having placed others behind to -stand on for the purpose of firing over them. Before the morning, all -these barrels, except one, were thrown down the scarped wall. The -fact is, that the third division mounted to the _terre-plein_ with -facility; but when on the rampart, they were fired on in front and both -flanks, as before described, and in this small space, they suffered a -tremendous loss of nearly five hundred heroic officers and soldiers. -During the fighting, their dead and wounded were piled one on the top -of the other, crying out in agony as they were trampled upon, and -impeding the progress of others, who exerted themselves in vain amongst -such havoc to carry the traverses. - -The moment the wooden magazine blew up, all firing nearly ceased, -for the enemy literally jumped over the right entrenchment on to the -_terre-plein_ of the great breach, to save themselves from the bayonets -of the light division. A young Italian officer there seized Captain -Hopkins, of the 43rd, round the neck, and implored his life. - -At about eleven o'clock in the morning (of the 20th) the great -explosion took place a few yards to the right of the _small breach_, -blowing up the _terre-plein_ of the rampart, four yards in breadth -and ten in length. This fatal explosion (which was accidental, owing -to some sparks of fire igniting some barrels of gunpowder in a -casement,) happened while the French garrison were marching out of -the city by the _small breach_, which had become so hard, owing to -such numbers of soldiers walking up and down it, as to make the ascent -nearly impracticable. The French, as well as the British soldiers, -were carried up into the air, or jammed amongst the rubbish, some -with heads, arms, or legs sticking out of the earth. I saw one of the -unfortunate soldiers in a blanket, with his _face_, _head_, and _body_, -as black as a coal, and cased in a black substance like a shell; his -features were no longer distinguishable, and all the hair was singed -from off his head, but still the unfortunate man was alive. How long he -lived in this horrible situation I cannot say. - -A tall athletic soldier of the 52d lay amongst the dead at the foot of -the breach, on his back; his arms and legs being at their full extent. -The top of his head, from the forehead to the back part of his skull, -was split in twain, and the cavity of the head entirely emptied of the -brains, as if a hand-grenade had exploded within, and expanded the -skull, till it had forced it into a separation with the parts ragged -like a saw, leaving a gaping aperture nine inches in length, and four -in breadth. For a considerable time I looked on this horrible fracture, -to define, if possible, by what missile or instrument so wonderful a -wound could have been inflicted; but without being able to come to any -conclusion as to the probable cause. - -From this place I walked to the convent of Saint Francisco to see a -wounded friend. The interior was crowded with wounded soldiers lying on -the hard pavement. A soldier of the third division was sitting against -a pillar, his head bent forward, and his chin resting on his breast, -his eyes open, and an agreeable smile on his countenance. For half a -minute I stopped with surprise to observe him sitting in so contented -a posture, surrounded by the groans of his companions. At length, I -addressed him, but, no answer being returned, I called a doctor, under -the impression that the man was delirious. On the contrary, we found he -was quite dead. - -In the afternoon we returned to our quarters by regiments across the -stone bridge, having been relieved by the fifth division, which came -from the rear, and took charge of the city. - -A few days after the assault, most of the officers of the light -division attended General Craufurd's funeral. He was buried under the -wall near the small breach. - -In a few days we moved from La Encina to El Bodon, where our principal -amusement consisted in playing at rackets, with wooden bats, against -the side of the church, or riding about the country. - -One day we visited the heights about half a league from this place, -where, on the previous September, a brigade of the third division had -been engaged. Many skeletons of the French horses lay in deep ravines, -or on the shelvings of rocks, to the very summit of the ridge, on -the crest of which some of the Portuguese gunners were cut down; and -where for a short time the cannon remained in the hands of the enemy. -It must have been at this moment that the second battalion of the -fifth regiment retook them by charging in line, before the enemy's -cavalry had time to form. I rode up the ragged ground myself with -the utmost difficulty; the ground near the summit was so steep that -the Portuguese, while throwing balls into the valley, could not see -the advance of the French cavalry until quite upon them. Not that I -wish to detract from the deserts of the Portuguese; but, as it has -been stated that they stood to their guns to the last, I only wish to -demonstrate how it happened. The very print of the wheels of the cannon -were still indented in the ground, and showed, to an inch, where they -had stood. - -The whole of the dead French soldiers lying in the valley were -stripped, and in a perfect state of preservation, blanched like -parchment by the alternate rain and sunshine; and their skins had -become so hard, that the bodies on being touched sounded like a drum. -The vultures had picked the bones of the horses perfectly clean, but -had left the soldiers untouched; and, although _four months_ had -elapsed since they had fallen, their features were as perfect as on -the day they were killed. Some of these soldiers were gracefully -proportioned, and extended in every possible attitude. - -The rubbish of the breaches at Ciudad Rodrigo having been cleared away, -the parapets built up with gabions and fascines, all the trenches -filled up, and a garrison of Spanish soldiers left for its defence—at -the latter end of February we marched towards Badajoz, for the purpose -of laying siege to that fortress, a distance of one hundred and sixty -miles, the road more than half way lying through the rocky provinces -of Portugal, where the villages are generally built on the tops of the -highest mountains, with the remains of Moorish castles, or towers, -studding the wildest rocks and the most tremendous precipices. - -We remained a week at Castello de Vida, then resumed our march, and, -on the 16th of March, entered Elvas, the principal fortress on the -frontier of the Alentéjo, three leagues distant from Badajoz. It is -situated on a hill, flanked on the right by a fort or citadel, half a -mile without its walls, and on the left by the fort La Lippe, which -stands on a scarped hill, a mile from the town. - -While quartering off the soldiers, I observed a very pretty young lady -looking out of a casement, which occasioned her house to be selected -for our quarter. In the evening, myself and messmate were invited to -take chocolate and sweetmeats with the family; and, before retiring, -the good old _Senhora_ remarked our youthful appearance, and begged -that, should either of us be wounded, we would come to her house. My -companion was subsequently shot through the body, and, being conveyed -back to Elvas, the mother and daughter kindly watched over him until he -was perfectly recovered. - -[Footnote 14: Now Major General Sir John Colborne.] - -[Footnote 15: During the siege, the enemy threw a vast quantity of -shells. One night two mortars kept up an incessant discharge; and -the soldiers called out "Here comes a shell from _big Tom_; and here -comes another from _little Tom_." All the cannon shot that flew over -our trenches lodged on a hill one mile north of the town, at the base -of which was a _spring_, where I saw a soldier killed while stooping -down to fill his canteen with water. This hill, owing to its being -so ploughed up with balls, was familiarly named by the soldiers -_plumb-pudding hill_.] - -[Footnote 16: Lieutenant Gurwood took the governor of the fortress -prisoner.] - -[Footnote 17: He died in excruciating agony.] - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - - March from Elvas to Badajoz—Defences of that city—The - investment—A sortie—Operations of the batteries—Capture of - fort Picurina—Preparations for the grand assault—Advance of the - "forlorn hope"—Desperate encounter at the breaches—Loss of life - experienced by the British—The mode of attack changed to escalade - with success—The city sacked by the British troops—Reflections - respecting the conduct of the siege—Incidental anecdotes. - - -On the morning of the 17th of March we formed contiguous columns, -outside the walls of Elvas, and entering a spacious plain, passed the -river Guadiana by a pontoon bridge, a few miles below Badajoz, which -was garrisoned by nearly five thousand French soldiers. It is situated -on the margin of the left bank of the Guadiana, in the province of -Estremadura, in Spain, and encompassed by an open country, without a -tree, a shrub, or even a hut to be seen without its walls. The ramparts -are about two miles in circumference, and were protected by the forts -San Cristoval, Napoleon, and the _Tête de Pont_, at the head of the -fine stone bridge, which communicates with the right bank of the -Guadiana. - -The fort Picurina, the outworks of Pardalaras, and the _lunette_ of -Saint Roque, constituted the general outworks of the city, on the left -bank of the river. - -As we drew near the ramparts of the fortress, we saw the flag of _three -colours_ majestically waving on the top of the great lofty square -tower, in the centre of the old castle, which stands on the summit of -a hill, whose frowning battlements overhang the town, and overlook the -adjacent plains for a considerable distance. - -The third, fourth, and light divisions invested the city on the left -bank of the Guadiana[18]. - -Our division bivouacked within one mile and a half S.S.W. of the town, -our position communicating in a manner with the bridge of boats. The -day was fine; but at six o'clock in the evening the rain began to fall -in torrents, and continued the whole night, which prevented the enemy -hearing the troops when they commenced the first parallel, and the -latter continued to work all night without being molested. - -Before daylight on the 18th, the parties fell in to relieve those of -our division who had first broke ground, a thousand yards S. E. of the -town; we had to make a quarter circle, which rendered the march nearly -three miles to the mouth of the trench, where we arrived at daybreak, -and I saw the first shot; it was fired from the Fort Picurina, and -killed two poor fellows in the covering party of the fourth division, -which was formed under the slope of a hill. In a few minutes the -round shot came up the road quite often enough to put our blood into -circulation; and we immediately took our station under a small natural -rise of ground, where we remained covering the workmen for twelve -hours. The cannonade was pretty regular during the day, both from the -town and from Fort Picurina. - -We returned to camp an hour after dark, and I was surprised to find the -division had been supplied with Portuguese tents. I found my friend -waiting in one for me, and the canteens laid out with all the affection -of a youthful soldier. I had been exposed in the rain for twenty-five -hours, and this was one of the happiest moments of my life. - -On the 19th, at mid-day, the firing from the town was very heavy; every -one in the best position for security, which it was not difficult to -obtain, as the trenches were well advanced, but every body cried "Keep -down," for which truly there was no occasion. Notwithstanding this -cry, Israel Wild, and another man of our regiment, who was afterwards -killed, (a splendid soldier,) got on the top of the trench. I caught -hold of Israel's[19] jacket, to pull him down, but he turned round, -and said, in a most furious manner, "We know what we are about;" then -looking forward for a moment, shouted, with an oath, that the French -were coming on, and instantly sprung out of the trench like a tiger, -following his comrade, just such another fine fellow. Two or three -French dragoons at that instant fired their pistols into the trenches, -having approached within a few yards without being perceived. We had -just entered the mouth of the first parallel, and all joined in a -simultaneous attack on the enemy's infantry, without regard to trenches -or any thing else. The French being beaten out of the advanced lines, -retired and formed line under the castle, having two field-pieces on -their left flank. I cannot say how they entered the town, there was so -much smoke covering them, when near the walls. _General Philippon knew -his business well._ Fourteen hundred men came out—two battalions. - -We had quite abandoned the trenches, and approached near to the castle. -I perceived two soldiers of another division, who were stretched -close to where I stood: one was quite dead, a round shot having -passed through his body; the other had lost a leg, his eyelids were -closed, and he was apparently dead. An adventurous Portuguese began to -disincumber him of his clothes. The poor soldier opened his eyes and -looked in the most imploring manner, while the villain had him by the -belts, lifting him up. I gave the humane Portuguese a blow with the -back of my sabre, that laid him prostrate for a time, by the side of -the soldier he was stripping. - -I know not what became of the wounded man, as my attention was -attracted by an extraordinary circumstance. I saw a heavy shot hopping -along, till it struck a soldier on the hip; down he went, motionless. I -felt confident that the wounded man was not dead, and begged that some -of his comrades would carry him off to the rear, (we were now retiring -under a heavy cannonade); my words were at first unheeded, but two -soldiers, at the risk of their lives, rushed back, and brought him in, -or he, with many others, would have been starved to death, between our -lines and the ramparts of the town. His hip was only grazed, and his -clothes untorn; but, of course, he was unable to walk, and seemed to -feel much pain, for he groaned heavily. - -The sortie took place about a quarter after twelve; (_military time, -quite correct_;) we were filing into the trenches. The day was fine, -and the time well selected by the governor, as he concluded that the -front parallel would be vacant while the relief was coming in; but -there was an order against that. - -The trenches were very extensive. The weather again became bad, and -our right battery was silenced; but when the great breaching battery -was completed, it fired salvos, which the enemy returned in a similar -manner from a battery just under the castle-gate, on a commanding -situation. One morning, at daylight, the enemy brought a light gun out -of the town to enfilade the right of the front parallel; but as the -relief came in at the time, I do not know the sequel of it. - -The left of our lines, previously to the escalade of Picurina, ran -within about a hundred yards parallel to it. One hundred of our -regiment were employed one night on the delightful job of carrying the -trenches across the Seville road. We commenced at the distance of one -hundred and fifty yards from the fort. The instant the enemy heard -the pickaxes striking on the hard road, they opened, when, strange to -relate, eleven rounds of grape were poured on us, and yet only one -officer was hit. The gunners could not depress their artillery so as to -cover the spot we were on. - -I was surprised that they used no musketry; but I imagine they had -orders not to do so at night, unless an attempt was made to escalade -the fort. - -Picurina was situated on a rising ground, without the least appearance -of strength. Three hundred of the enemy formed the garrison, and -latterly they were obliged to block up their embrasures with sand-bags, -to screen themselves from the musketry of our lines; now and then they -cleared away to fire grape shot. - -Towards the end of the siege the weather became beautiful. One day in -particular, the enemy scarcely fired a shot, all our troubles were -forgotten, and two or three of us amused ourselves by reading a novel -in the trenches. - -Lieutenant Wilkinson,[20] was among the wounded on that day. There was -a path across a field, which communicated with our grand battery, and -an order forbade any person to cross it in the day-time, as the French -were continually firing small arms whenever any lazy-fellow took that -road. Poor little Wilky's curiosity was excited; he made a start out of -fun, was just entering the battery, when alas! he fell, shot through -the thigh. - -On the night of the 25th, a part of the third division, and also one -hundred of the light division, carrying ladders, assailed Picurina, -directed by General Sir James Kempt, and for a long time without -success: no wonder! The ditch was terrifically deep, and narrow at the -bottom. The soldiers walked round the fort, prying into all corners, -and got upon the gate, which they broke down, and then entered, -bayonets in advance. The French grenadiers would not give in—a -desperate bayonetting took place, and much blood was spilt; already -five hundred French soldiers from the town were at hand. The struggle -continued with hard fighting, inside and outside of the fort. The enemy -wished to vie with their comrades who had defended Fort St. Christoval -at the former siege. Victory was some minutes doubtful; at length the -fort was taken, and the reinforcements were beaten back into the town. -I was sitting at the door of my tent, and witnessed all the firing. - -The garrison of Badajoz fired every morning, for a few days previously -to the grand assault, a certain number of rounds, as if for practice, -and to measure the ground. - -The first order for storming the breaches fixed it to take place on the -5th of April. I was informed that my turn for trench duty fell on that -evening, because the officer just preceding me was out of the way. I -resolved to play a like trick, and for a like reason, namely, not to -miss the assault. I therefore got a friend to persuade the Adjutant to -allow that the men should march off without me, promising to follow. This -anecdote I relate, because of the curious circumstance that it led to. - -When I was quite certain that the assault was not to take place that -night, I mounted my horse, and, riding to the entrance of the first -parallel, I gave the animal to my batman, and proceeded on foot. I had -just crossed the trench, and got into a field, taking a short cut, when -I observed two figures making towards me. There was not any firing; a -solemn silence reigned around. Coming up at a half run, I put my hand -to my sword, for the night was clear, and I saw they were not soldiers; -they soon closed on me, demanding boldly, and in Spanish, the way -out of the trenches: I pointed out the road to them, but, an instant -after, suspected they were not _Spaniards_, but spies. I noticed they -kept their hands behind them, and I thought it also very _civil_ of -them not to fire, for I am confident they were well armed. "_Buenas -noches, Señor_," said they, and hastily retired. When I reached the -great battery, and found every body in it asleep, I thought the place -bewitched. This was my last trip to the trenches. Thirteen times I -visited them during the siege. - -A long order was issued relative to the positions the troops were to -occupy. On the 6th of April, the day was fine, and all the soldiers in -good spirits, cleaning themselves as if for a review. About two o'clock -I saw Lieutenant Harvest of our regiment; he was sucking an orange, -and walking on a rising ground, alone, and very thoughtful. It gave me -pain, as I knew he was to lead the "forlorn hope". He observed, "My -mind is made up; I am sure to be killed[21]." - -At half-past eight o'clock that night the ranks were formed, and -the roll called in an under-tone. Lieutenant-Colonel M'Leod spoke -long and earnestly to the regiment before it joined the division, -expressing the utmost confidence in the result of the attack, and -finished by repeating, that he left it to the honour of all persons to -preserve discipline, and not to commit any cruelty on the defenceless -inhabitants of the town. - -The division drew up in the most profound silence behind the large -quarry, three hundred yards from the _three_ breaches, made in the -bastions of la Trinidad, and Santa Maria. A small stream separated -us from the fourth division. Suddenly, a voice was heard from that -direction, giving orders about ladders, so loud, that it might be -heard by the enemy on the ramparts. It was the only voice that broke -on the stillness of the moment; every body was indignant, and Colonel -M'Leod sent an officer to say that he would report the circumstance -to the General-in-Chief. I looked up the side of the quarry, fully -expecting to see the enemy come forth, and derange the plan of attack. -It was at half-past nine this happened, but, at a quarter before ten, -the ill-timed noise ceased, and nothing could be heard but the loud -croaking of the frogs. - -At ten a carcass was thrown from the town; this was a most beautiful -fire-work, and illuminated the ground for many hundred yards; two or -three fire-balls followed, and, falling in different directions, showed -a bright light, and remained burning. The stillness that followed was -the prelude to one of the strangest scenes that the imagination of man -can conceive. - -Soon after ten o'clock, a little whispering announced that "the forlorn -hope" were stealing forward, followed by the storming parties, composed -of three hundred men, (one hundred from each British regiment of -our division;) in two minutes the division followed[22]. One musket -shot, _no more_, was fired near the breaches by a French soldier, -who was on the look out. We gained ground leisurely—but silently; -there were no obstacles. The 52nd, 43rd, and part of the rifle corps, -closed gradually up to column of quarter distance, left in front; -all was hushed, and the town lay buried in gloom; the ladders were -placed on the edge of the ditch, when suddenly an explosion took -place at the foot of the breaches, and a burst of light disclosed the -whole scene:—the earth seemed to rock under us:—what a sight! The -ramparts crowded with the enemy—the French soldiers standing on the -parapets—the fourth division advancing rapidly in column of companies -on a quarter circle to our right, while the short-lived glare from the -barrels of powder and combustibles flying into the air, gave to friends -and foes a look as if both bodies of troops were laughing at each other. - -A tremendous firing now opened on us, and for an instant we were -stationary; but the troops were _no ways daunted_. The only three -ladders were placed down the scarp to descend into the ditch, and -were found exactly opposite the centre breach, and the whole division -rushed to the assault with amazing resolution. There was no check. The -soldiers flew down the ladders, and the cheering from both sides was -loud and full of confidence. - -While descending the ladders into the ditch, furious blows were -exchanged amongst the troops in their eagerness to get forward; at -the same time grape-shot and musketry tore open their ranks. The -first officer I happened to see down was Captain Fergusson, who had -led on our storming-party here, and at Rodrigo; he was lying to the -right of the ladders, with a wound on the head, and holding a bloody -handkerchief in his grasp[23]. I snatched it out of his hand, and tied -it round his head. The French were then handing over the fire-balls, -which produced a sort of revolving light. The ditch was very wide, -and when I arrived at the foot of the centre breach, eighty or ninety -men were formed. One cried out, "Who will lead?" This was the work of -a moment. Death, and the most dreadful sounds and cries encompassed -us. It was a volcano! Up we went; some killed, and others impaled on -the bayonets of their own comrades, or hurled headlong amongst the -outrageous crowd. - -The _chevaux-de-frise_ looked like innumerable bayonets. When within -a yard of the top, I fell from a blow that deprived me of sensation. -I only recollect feeling a soldier pulling me out of the water, where -so many men were drowned. I lost my cap, but still held my sword. On -recovering, I looked towards the breach. It was shining and empty! fire -balls were in plenty, and the French troops standing upon the walls, -taunting, and inviting our men to come up and try it again. - -Colonel M'Leod was killed while trying to force the left corner of the -large breach[24]. He received his mortal wound within three yards of -the enemy, just at the bottom of some nine-feet planks, studded with -nails, and hanging down the breach from under the _chevaux-de-frise_. - -At half-past eleven the firing slackened, and the French detached -soldiers from the breaches to repulse the other attacks, and to -endeavour to retake the castle. I heard the enemy calling out on the -ramparts in German, "All is well in Badajoz!" - -The British soldiers did as much as _men could do_. The wood-work -of the _chevaux-de-frise_ was ponderous, bristling with short stout -sword-blades fastened in it, and chained together. It was an obstacle -not to be removed, and the French soldiers stood close to it, killing -deliberately every man who approached it. The large breach was at one -time crowded with our brave troops; I mean the fourth division, the -heroes of many hard-fought victories and bloody fields. The light -division had recently been crowned with victory; but to remove such -obstacles was impracticable by living bodies, pushing against them up a -steep breach, and sinking to the knees every step in rubbish, while a -fearless enemy stood behind pushing down fragments of masonry and live -shells, and firing bullets, fixed on the top of pieces of wood, the -sides of which were indented with seven or eight _buck_ shot. - -Generals Picton, Colville, Kempt, Bowes, Hervey, Walker, Champlemond, -and almost every officer commanding regiments, besides more than three -hundred officers, and between four and five thousand gallant veteran -soldiers, fell around these walls. - -The left breach[25] had not been attempted at all until a quarter -before twelve o'clock, when Captain Shaw of our regiment[26], -collecting about seventy men of different regiments, and with great -difficulty, after such slaughter for two hours, made a desperate effort -to gain the top; but when half-way up, as if by enchantment, he stood -alone. Two rounds of grape and the musketry prevented any more trouble, -for almost the whole of the party lay stretched in various attitudes! - -Captain Nichols[27], of the Engineers, was of the number; he now showed -great courage; and when asked by Shaw, if he would try the left breach, -answered he would do any thing to succeed. A grape-shot went through -his lungs, and he died three days after. - -This attack was very daring. It was a forlorn hope, under accumulated -dangers; almost all the troops had retired[28], and, a few moments -before, a great alarm was excited by a cry from the heaps of wounded, -that the French were descending into the ditch. To exaggerate the -picture of this sanguinary strife is impossible:—the small groups -of soldiers seeking shelter from the cart-wheels, pieces of timber, -fire-balls, and other missiles hurled down upon them; the wounded -crawling past the fire-balls, many of them scorched and perfectly -black, and covered with mud, from having fallen into the _lunette_, -where three hundred soldiers were suffocated or drowned; and all this -time the French on the top of the parapets, jeering and cracking their -jokes, and deliberately picking off whom they chose. The troops lining -the glacis could not fire sufficiently, as they were terribly exposed, -and could scarcely live from the cross fire of grape-shot. - -Colonel Barnard[29] did all in his power to concentrate the different -attacks. It was in vain; the difficulties were too great. But Badajoz -was not the grave of the light division's valour, nor of the fourth -division's either. - -Philippon, the governor, a _Frenchman_, and our enemy, gave the full -particulars of this affair to a friend of mine, while travelling -in England; he said that he thought the great explosion would have -finished the business, but he was astonished at the resolution of the -British troops, who, he said, were fine fellows, and deserved a better -fate. - -The single musket-shot, fired just as the "forlorn hope" descended the -ditch, was a signal of their approach, which shows how determined the -French were to have a good blow-up, for not a ball was fired before -the explosion. The efforts of the garrison to preserve the place did -them much honour. Philippon was determined not to do as the governor -of Ciudad Rodrigo had done. Had not the Earl of Wellington planned the -two extreme attacks by escalade, on the castle, by the third division, -and on the south side of the town by part of the fifth division, and on -the Fort Pardalaras by the Portuguese, the result might have been very -serious. The Duke of Dalmatia was within a few leagues, and opposite -Generals Hill[30] and Graham[31]. The Duke of Ragusa had pushed his -advanced dragoons as far as the Bridge of Boats at Villa Velha, and -at length got entangled in the labyrinths of Portugal. I have heard -and read of sitting down before a town, _opening trenches, blowing up -the counterscarp, and all according to rule; but this was a crisis_, -time was precious, added to which the Guadiana ran in our rear, and -the pontoon bridge had been carried away once during the siege, by the -swelling of the river. - -When the French soldiers found that the town was falling by escalade -on the south side, and that the castle was lost to them, they made -an attempt to retake the latter by an old gate, leading towards the -town; that gate was pierced by their musketry in numberless places. -I never saw a target better covered with holes. The third division -had in return twice discharged a gun through it, which made two large -holes. An old handspike was placed under its breech to depress it, -and remained precisely in the same way three days afterwards. The -scaling-ladders were well placed, _five_ quite close together, against -an old round tower. Many slain soldiers had evidently been pushed from -off the parapet, and rolled nearly fifty yards down the hill; some lay -with heads battered to pieces, whilst others were doubled up, looking -scarcely human, and their broken limbs twisted in all directions. - -The third division had been obliged to cross the broken bridge over -the small river Revellas, rank entire, (amidst a shower of grape-shot, -bullets, and bursting of shells,) and during the work of death to -drag the unwieldy ladders up a rugged hill, to plant them against the -walls: their first effort failed; many of the enemy then, contrary to -General Philippon's orders, evacuated the Castle, and went to assist -at the breaches. At this moment, Lieutenant-Colonel Ridge of the fifth -regiment called on an officer of his corps, "There, you mount one -ladder, and I will lead up the other. Come on Fifth, I am sure that you -will follow your commanding officer." _He was killed; but the place was -carried!_ - -Let us pause and reflect that this act of heroism was executed after a -long and fearful struggle, high walls and defeat staring them in the -face. - -The third division then filled the castle, and there remained until day -light. On the south side of the town, General Walker's brigade of the -fifth division[32], hearing the rolling fire at the breaches, became -impatient, and, with a simultaneous rush, gained (by escalade) the -top of the walls, and even formed on the ramparts. On seeing a light, -the cry of a _mine_ was set up, and a short panic ensuing, the enemy -at the same time charging forward at a run with fixed bayonets and -shouting loudly, these troops were forced to give ground. An officer -informed me, that he had thrown himself over the ramparts to save the -colours of his corps, while nearly surrounded by French grenadiers. -This bold fellow had the choice of either being pinned to the wall, or -the risk of breaking his neck: he chose the latter. The rear regiment, -however, fortunately stood firm. Many of the enemy then precipitately -abandoned the town, accompanied by the Governor, crossed the bridge, -and shut themselves up in Fort St. Christoval, on the other side of the -Guadiana; and the next morning surrendered themselves prisoners of war. -This brigade continued to be _hotly_ engaged in the streets during the -_whole night_. Some even asserted, that many of the Spaniards fired -from their windows on our troops, and _held out lights_ to guide the -French; knowing that their property would fall a sacrifice, should the -town be taken. - -The place was eventually completely sacked by our troops; every atom -of furniture broken; mattresses ripped open in search of treasure; and -one street literally strewed with articles, knee-deep. A convent was in -flames, and the poor nuns in dishabille, striving to burrow themselves -into some place of security; however, that was impossible; the town was -alive, and every house filled with mad soldiers, from the cellar to the -once solitary garret. - -When I examined the three breaches by day, and witnessed the defences -the enemy had made for their protection, I was fully satisfied that -they were impregnable to men; and I do declare, most positively, that -I could not have surmounted the _chevaux-de-frise, even unopposed_, in -the day-time. - -Some _talk_ that grappling-irons would have moved them. Who would, -who could have done it? thousands of warlike French soldiers standing -firmly up to the points, not giving an inch, and ready for the fight. -They fought in the streets to the last, and tried to retake the -castle—_Que voulez-vous?_ - -The _chevaux-de-frise_ were fixed after dark. Round-shot alone could -have destroyed these defences, which were all chained together, and -not made in a temporary manner, as most military men imagine, but -strong and well finished; and the enemy, behind all, had made a deep -cut, over which they had thrown planks, communicating with the town, -besides three field-pieces to enfilade the centre breach, if the -_chevaux-de-frise_ should be seriously shaken. Had it not been for -this, the divisions would have entered like a swarm of bees. - -_One man only_ was at the top of the left breach (the heaps of -dead had, as a matter of course, rolled to the bottom), and that -was one of the rifle corps who had succeeded in getting under the -_chevaux-de-frise_. His head was battered to pieces, and his arms and -shoulders torn asunder with bayonet wounds. - -Our batteries did not play on the ramparts that night after dark; but -when the explosion took place, the whole of them opened with _blank -cartridge_ in our rear—probably to frighten the enemy, or to make them -keep down; but they were old soldiers, and not to be so done. - -Poor M'Leod, in his 27th year, was buried half a mile from the town, -on the south side, nearly opposite our camp, on the slope of a hill. -We did not like to take him to the miserable breach, where, from the -warmth of the weather, the dead soldiers had begun to turn, and their -blackened bodies had swollen enormously; we, therefore, laid him -amongst some young springing corn; and, with sorrowful hearts, six of -us (all that remained of the officers able to stand) saw him covered in -the earth. His cap, all muddy, was handed to me, I being without one, -with merely a handkerchief round my bruised head, one eye closed, and -also a slight wound in my leg. - -The country was open. The dead, the dying, and the wounded were -scattered abroad; some in tents, others exposed to the sun by day, -and the heavy dew at night. With considerable difficulty, I found at -length my friend, Lieutenant Madden, lying in a tent with his trowsers -on and his shirt off, covered with blood, bandaged across the body to -support his broken shoulder, laid on his back, and unable to move. He -asked for his brother.—"Why does he not come to see me?" I turned my -head away; for his gallant young brother (a captain of the 52nd) was -amongst the slain! - -Captain Merry, of the 52nd, was sitting on the ground sucking -an orange. He said, "How are you?—You see that _I_ am dying; a -mortification has ensued." A grape-shot had shattered his knee; and he -had told the doctor that he preferred death rather than to permit such -a _good leg_ to be amputated. Another officer had just breathed his -last between these two sufferers. - -The camp became a wilderness, some of the tents being thrown down, -others vacant, and flapping in the wind, while the musketry still -rattled in the town, announcing the wild rejoicing of our troops. - -[Footnote 18: Some Portuguese troops watched the right bank of the -river on the side of Portugal, but, during the latter end of the siege, -part of the fifth division under General Leith took that duty.] - -[Footnote 19: I have often been told, from undoubted authority, that -this soldier was one of the first who entered the small breach at -Rodrigo, and whose Stentorian voice rose above the din of arms.] - -[Footnote 20: He was mortally wounded at New Orleans, as Brigade-major, -while scrambling up the enemy's lines. His horse had been killed under -him. He was taken prisoner, and died raving mad from the agony of the -wound through his body.] - -[Footnote 21: He was killed; and his twin-brother, of the 52nd light -infantry, fell two years after at St. Sebastian, also at the head of -twenty-five volunteers from that regiment.] - -[Footnote 22: This was with the exception of the two regiments of -Portuguese Caçadores, who were left in reserve in the quarries; but -many of them afterwards came towards the breaches.] - -[Footnote 23: He had also two unhealed body wounds open, which he had -received at Rodrigo, and one in the trenches at Badajoz a few days -before. He now commands the 52nd regiment.] - -[Footnote 24: The right corner looking from the ramparts; but, as we -attacked, it was on the left.] - -[Footnote 25: There was a trench three feet wide and four deep, cut -between the centre and left breach, which was choked up with the dead -and wounded.] - -[Footnote 26: Now Lieut.-Colonel Shaw.] - -[Footnote 27: The engineer officers suffered terribly in killed and -wounded during the siege, as they joined in all the desperate attacks.] - -[Footnote 28: The fourth and light divisions retired at midnight from -the breaches; but many of the soldiers did not leave the ditch, being -unable to ascend the ladders owing to the heaps of dead and wounded. -The fourth division descended opposite the large breach by only two -ladders.] - -[Footnote 29: Now General Sir A. Barnard.] - -[Footnote 30: Now Lord Hill, commander-in-chief of the British army.] - -[Footnote 31: Now Lord Lynedoch.] - -[Footnote 32: The fifth division took the city of Badajoz, and the -third division the castle.] - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - - Movements of the enemy after the fall of Badajoz—March - of the British light and third divisions towards Ciudad - Rodrigo—Dispositions for a fresh campaign—Excellent marching - arrangement of the light division—Occupation of Salamanca by - the British, and investment of the forts—Advance of the French - army—Skirmishing and cannonading—Surrender of the forts by the - French—English quarters at Rueda, and amusements there—Movements - of the author's division—A breakfast party broken up—Personal - escape of the commander-in-chief—Active manœuvres of the - contending forces—Retrograde movement of the British towards - Salamanca—Relative position of the two armies—Battle of - Salamanca. - - -The Duke of Dalmatia, on hearing of the fall of Badajoz, retraced his -steps towards Seville, followed by the British cavalry, under General -Sir S. Cotton[33]. - -On the 11th of April, the light and third divisions crossed the -fine stone bridge to the right bank of the Guadiana, and entered -Campo-Mayor. The march of the troops presented the most warlike -appearance. Many of the soldiers' blood-stained and torn uniforms -were discoloured from explosions; numbers of the soldiers held their -arms in slings, and carried their firelocks and caps slung on their -knapsacks; whilst others were seen with bandaged heads, or lame from -contusions through wounds inflicted by the iron-crows' feet with which -the enemy had strewed the ditch of Badajoz. In this manner did all -those gallant soldiers, who were able to join their ranks, trudge along -for ten days, for the purpose of chasing out of the province of Beira -the Duke of Ragusa, who now blockaded and threatened the fortresses -of Almeida and Ciudad Rodrigo. Every morning before day light we were -creeping over the rough, flinty, and winding roads along the _Cordon_ -of Portugal, until we reached the neighbourhood of Ciudad Rodrigo, from -which place the enemy had retired on our approach. - -On the 19th of May, General Sir R. Hill, with the second division, -attacked, and carried by escalade, and destroyed the forts Napoleon, -Ragusa, and the _Tête de Pont_, which guarded the bridge of boats -thrown across the Tagus near Almaraz in Spanish Estremadura. As the -summer came on, officers and soldiers rejoined us with wounds scarcely -healed; others arrived from England to fill up the vacant ranks. A -fresh campaign was in contemplation, and the officers from various -divisions of the army flocked merrily into Ciudad Rodrigo. - -On the 12th of June, the army crossed the river Agueda, the light -division leading the centre column. The march of the light division -was worthy of notice. The men were not tormented by unnecessary -parades—the march was their parade; that over, the soldiers (except -those on duty) made themselves happy, while those with sore feet, by -such a system, had rest, which enabled them to be with their comrades, -when, by a mistaken notion of discipline, it would have been otherwise: -their equipment was regularly examined, nor were the men on any -pretence permitted to overload themselves—one of the most serious -afflictions to an army. A general may be endowed with transcendant -abilities, and by a forced march place himself in a situation to -overthrow his enemies; he may possess the number of divisions, and the -number of regiments, but through internal bad management, half his -army may be straggling in the rear. Again, nothing is so pernicious as -keeping the soldiers under arms, while the officers are rambling about: -it destroys all _esprit_, causing the officers to forget the sufferings -of the men after a weary march, and creating feelings of dislike -towards them in the breasts of the soldiers. Such a system did not -exist in the light division; and when a young officer fell in action, -the old soldiers proffered their services with parental care. - -The baggage followed the line of march in succession. The mules of each -company were tied together, and conducted by two batmen in rotation, -right or left in front, according to the order of march. Each regiment -found an officer, and each brigade a captain to superintend. The -alarm-post for them in camp was on the reverse flank of respective -regiments. When the enemy were at hand, the baggage was ordered to the -rear,—the distance according to circumstances. - -The army was four days clearing the forest, which was clothed with -verdure, and supplied the most delightful bivouacks. The Sierra de Gata -lay on the right hand, covered with snow, while a cloudless sky formed -our canopy, and the sunshine of hope and happiness was beaming on every -countenance, not excepting those of the growling surly batmen, who were -seen to smile at finding forage at hand for their animals. - -On the fourth day the division encamped within two leagues of -Salamanca, and quite clear of the wood. The German hussars had an -affair on that day with the enemy's cavalry. The officers of hussars -described it to us, and related the conversation that took place -between them and the French dragoons stationed on picquet in front of -Salamanca. The enemy requested the Germans not to charge; the hussars -replied, while advancing, that if the French fired, they would. The -enemy then fired their carbines to stop their progress. The hussars -charged, and cut most of them down. - -The next morning we advanced, and pushed a body of the rifle corps to -feel their way through a village, near Salamanca, which they found to -be unoccupied by the enemy. The division then brought up their left -shoulders, and passed in open column of companies within cannon range -of the forts, situated on the right bank of the Tormes, and within a -short distance of the north side of the town. The enemy stood on the -ramparts to see us pass; the whole plain was covered by our cavalry -and infantry, crowding towards the ford of Santa Martha, where we -all forded the river, and bivouacked a short distance from the town. -The French army had retired, leaving eight hundred men to garrison -the three forts of St. Vincente, Gayetano, and Merced, that were -constructed with the masonry extracted from the different handsome -convents, monasteries, and colleges, which had been pulled down to be -converted into bastions. - -The sixth division took possession of Salamanca, and invested the -forts. Soon after we had taken up our ground, most of the officers -hurried into the town; the inhabitants appeared much rejoiced to see -us, and, as I entered, two ladies ran towards me, each seizing a hand. -My Rozinante dropped her head in search of food, as I believe she had -not enjoyed a feed that day, while I looked right and left, and thought -such congratulations very romantic. The _Señoras_, in black silk, put -numerous questions, few of which I could understand, nor am I confident -whether they were civil or military, although, from the expression of -their eyes, I concluded that they were on a _civil_ subject. I much -admired the female peasantry; they were healthy, well-made, with black -eyes, red lips, little feet, and wore red, yellow, and blue petticoats. - -Soon after, I ascended to the top of the cathedral, to reconnoitre the -forts, when I had a full view into the interior of them, and saw that -musketry might have been applied with effect from this point. I then -descended, and entered into the festivities and pleasures of the place. - -In the evening the town was illuminated, and resounded with music, -while the merry Spanish _muchachas_ were dancing boleros, and striking -their castanets in the streets. The glare of light was reflected from -the bright arms piled in the great square, surrounded by soldiers of -the sixth division, many of whom were destined soon to fall within a -few hundred yards of the fascinating scene. - -Our division advanced the next day, and took up its ground a league and -a half in front of Salamanca. On the 20th a staff officer rode up to a -group of us, and said, "The enemy are advancing." I rode up the side -of the position of St. Christoval, and descried them afar off in the -vast plain. The division then fell in, and were ordered to crown the -heights, which they did; and at the same time some Spanish regiments -came in our rear, with two pieces of cannon: the mules became restive; -some went one way, and some another—every way but the right: they -became entangled in their harness; some kicking, and others feeding on -the uncut corn, and, finally, during this mutiny of the mules a gun was -upset, and, rolling over the bank into the road, quite deranged the -dignity of the Spanish march. - -The different divisions of the army were now ascending the heights of -St. Christoval at many points. The French army continued to advance, -and soon after began to debouche from the different roads in order of -battle. The view was not obstructed; the country was level, covered -with a sheet of corn, as far as the eye could reach. To those fond of -military evolutions, the scene was bold; to those of more tranquil -habits, time was given to pray for the good of their own souls, and, -if charitably inclined, for the rest of the army. - -At first our division deployed on the left of the front line; then -again moved, and took post in the centre of the second line; the whole -army were deployed in two lines, to oppose the enemy, the cavalry to -the right, and also some detached on the left, to scour the plain -between us and Salamanca, where part of the sixth division remained -to cover the forts of that place. The whole army present consisted -of seven divisions, besides cavalry, artillery, the before-mentioned -Spaniards, and some Portuguese infantry. - -At five o'clock in the afternoon the French cavalry approached by the -valley to the left of our position, where our light dragoons began to -skirmish with them, and showed some disinclination to give ground; the -enemy brought up six guns, and opened on our squadrons in reserve, when -the dispute ended. - -Towards evening the French made an attack on part of the seventh -division, occupying a village at the base, and on the right of our -position; after some sharp work, it was carried by the enemy. A brisk -cannonade then took place to our right between the two armies. Night -put an end to the firing. The whole army slept on their arms in order -of battle, and after dark the picquets were placed at the foot of our -position. - -An hour before daybreak, the troops stood to their arms, fully -expecting to be attacked. The dark shades dispersed; the sun rose; both -armies tranquil, notwithstanding their proximity; the enemy were full -in view, without a bush, or any obstacle to prevent close quarters. -Their right was thrown back in _échelon_ of divisions. I suppose our -General-in-chief wished them to come a little nearer, but the Duke of -Ragusa was now cautious, for his army was inferior in numbers. - -Our position was covered with uncut corn, which served the cavalry -for forage, and the infantry for beds. The contending armies caused -great devastation, and trampled down the ripe wheat for miles around. -The river Tormes ran about two miles in our rear, with two fords. Our -division was now withdrawn from the line, and placed as a column of -reserve in rear and centre of the army: it protected the fords in our -rear, and might be used as a moveable mass either to resist cavalry, or -assist where required. - -The Earl of Wellington was stationary from morning till night, watching -the enemy, generally alone and on foot, at the crest of the hill, and -in the centre of the position. His staff approached him one at a time -to receive orders. At night the Earl slept on the ground, wrapped in -his cloak. - -The troops were much inconvenienced for want of water, as the river -was at some distance, and only a few men could be spared, since it was -impossible to know at what moment the enemy might not attack. Some -Spanish ladies came from Salamanca, and walked through our lines. On -the third night the French retired; our division took ground to the -right, and were posted on the bare and conical hill of Cabrerizos. It -appeared necessary that the forts and the command of the bridge at -Salamanca should be secured before we made any forward movement. The -Duke of Ragusa evidently wished to gain time, and to continue in the -vicinity to succour the forts, also to infuse courage into the little -garrisons, until his reinforcements should arrive. - -The Earl of Wellington remained on the hill of Cabrerizos the whole -day. The sun shone with great brilliancy, and it was burning hot. -One of the soldiers of the 43d put up a blanket to keep the rays of -the sun from his lordship. Our bivouac presented a droll appearance, -as the whole division had hoisted blankets in a similar manner. A -Spanish _muchacha_, with sandy hair, named Agueda, from the _pueblo_ -of Fuente de Guinaldo, who preferred the sound of the bugle-horn to -her domestic occupations, was the sole female to be seen amid the -sun-burnt soldiers, and the brilliant masses, that now covered hill and -dale, ready at a moment to deploy in battle array. The breaches at the -forts were now considered practicable. At about nine o'clock at night -the attack commenced; but after some time the firing became slack, and -I saw three rockets thrown up from the forts; they were immediately -answered by several rounds of artillery from the French army, on a -rising ground two leagues to our right, which instantly satisfied me -that the assault had not succeeded, and that it was done as a signal -that they were still at hand. - -On the morning of the 25th, at daylight, we heard some firing on -the other side of the Tormes during a dense fog, which at first -prevented the force of the enemy from being ascertained. The Earl of -Wellington would not move. The soldiers laughed, and said, "Oh, they -are only shaking their blankets on the other side of the water;" for -in heavy weather musketry produced sounds such as I have described. As -the fog cleared away, a few rounds of artillery took place; and the -General-in-Chief sent a sufficient body of troops by the ford in rear -of St. Christoval to meet the enemy. When the atmosphere cleared, we -saw about a division of the French moving towards Salamanca. They were -opposed by our heavy cavalry, which had been placed there to secure the -flank and rear of our army. - -At seven that evening, the French re-crossed, unmolested, to the right -bank of the Tormes, by a ford a league to our right. I did not consider -the movement a serious one, but merely as intended to encourage the -soldiers in the forts to hold out. - -On the 27th, St. Vincente being in flames, the enemy permitted our -troops to ascend the breaches without opposition. It was a sort of half -assault and half surrender. The troops in the other forts also laid -down their arms, having suffered severely; and only marched out three -hundred out of eight, their original force, and many of those scorched -by the flames, or otherwise hurt. - -The army now moved forward. Our division supported the cavalry, and -advanced towards Ruêda. On the 2d of July, Captain Bull's horse -artillery and the cavalry overtook the enemy's rear guard near that -place. Although the country appeared open, it was unfit for cavalry, as -it was intersected with small vines, the size of gooseberry-bushes. On -entering the town, I observed five of the French killed from the fire -of the six-pounders. - -The division bivouacked round the town; and the next morning we -moved about two leagues in advance, and rather to the left, where an -interchange of shots took place between the left of our army and the -enemy, near Pollos, who had no idea of permitting us to cross the Douro -at that time, as the French Marshal wished to maintain his line on that -river for the base of his future operations. We then returned, and took -up our quarters in Ruêda. Pay was issued, all of which we spent in -gaieties and _iced wines_. The inhabitants had all returned to their -dwellings. The mayor was informed that the officers would give a ball; -when he procured _Señoritas_, according to custom. It was extremely -pleasant, with waltzing, and all the fascinating mazes of the Spanish -country-dance in perfection. The Marquis of Worcester, and others of -the Earl of Wellington's staff attended. - -On the evening of the 16th July our division was ordered to quit Ruêda, -and marched the whole night over a dusty and arid country; and towards -morning we took up our ground near Castréjon. During this day the -Valencians (commonly called the lemonade-men) came into our bivouac, -the sure harbingers of the approach of the enemy. These men wear a -spiral cap, of felt or leather, and have jet black ringlets hanging -down each side of their dark olive faces; and their fierce black eyes -give them a noble expression of countenance. A white linen jacket is -thrown over the shoulder, and a red sash encircles their loins; they -also wear a white linen kilt, like our Highland soldiers, reaching to -the cap of the knee; the white half stockings are gartered under the -knee, which is bare; and hempen sandals are tied round the feet. They -carry a long tin can, strapped on their backs, cased in the bark of the -cork-tree, which keeps cool the lemonade with which they are filled. -These men generally marched with the French columns, and acted as spies -to both parties. Just before nightfall, the company was ordered a -quarter of a league to the front on picquet; the country was open, and, -as the cavalry passed, I heard a staff-officer giving orders, which led -me to suspect that the enemy were at hand. - -At break of day on the 18th, a few shots were exchanged to our right; -the firing increased, and the cheering might be distinctly heard at -intervals, as the sun rose above the horizon. - -Our dragoons became visible while retiring before the enemy's horse and -light artillery, which at intervals were blazing away. The scene was -sublime and beautiful. An officer said to me, "There will be a row this -day; however, we had better get our breakfast, as God knows _when_ we -shall have any thing to eat, unless we take advantage of the present -moment." The tea service being laid out, and a stubble fire kindled, -to warm the bottom of the kettle, we suddenly espied some squadrons of -French heavy dragoons in a valley to our right, pushing for the main -road at full trot. An absurd and ludicrous scene now took place. The -crockery was thrown into the hampers; also the kettle, half filled with -hot water; another officer, who had come to _déjeûne_ with us, from the -rear, all the while vociferating, "God bless me! you will not desert my -mule and hampers; they are worth four hundred dollars." In fact, to get -off seemed impossible; the company, however, formed column of sections, -and fixed bayonets, fully determined to cover the old mule, who went -off with a rare clatter, and we after him, in double-quick time. The -enemy were now within two hundred yards of us, brandishing their -swords, and calling out, when they suddenly drew up on seeing some of -our cavalry hovering on their right flank. A rivulet, with steep banks, -ran parallel with the road; but we soon found a ford, where we drew up, -intending to dispute the passage. The right brigade of our division -had moved forward, and had deployed to the succour of our dragoons -first engaged, about half a mile to our right. Soon after this, two -squadrons of our light dragoons formed on a rising ground, two hundred -yards from us, with two pieces of horse artillery on their right, when -about an equal number of French heavy cavalry, handsomely dressed, with -large fur caps, made rapidly towards them, our guns throwing round -shot at them during their advance. When they had arrived within one -hundred yards of our squadrons, they drew up to get wind, our dragoons -remaining stationary[34]. - -A French officer, the chef d'escadron, advanced and invited our people -to charge, to beguile a few moments, while his squadrons obtained a -little breathing time. He then held his sword on high, crying aloud, -"_Vive l'Empereur! en avant, Français!_" and rushed on single-handed, -followed by his men, and overthrowing our light dragoons. The guns had -fortunately limbered up, and the horse-artillery fought round them -with great spirit, the enemy trying to cut the traces, while the poor -drivers held down their heads, sticking their spurs into the horses' -sides with all their might, and passed the ford under cover of our -picquet. The Earl of Wellington was in the thick of it, and only -escaped with difficulty. He also crossed the ford, with his straight -sword drawn, at full speed, and smiling. I did not see his lordship -when the charge first took place, but he had a most narrow escape; and, -when he passed us, he had not any of his staff near him, and was quite -alone, with a ravine in his rear. - -A few stragglers of each party still continued engaged, and this -part of the affray took place within twenty yards of us. One of our -dragoons came to the water with a frightful wound; his jaw was entirely -separated from the upper part of his face, and hung on his breast; the -poor fellow made an effort to drink in that wretched condition. - -The round shot now flew in various directions; one spun through a -cottage behind us, and the shepherd ran out in great terror. The light -division now commenced its retreat from the vicinity of Castréjon. The -French had crossed the river Douro with reinforcements, and had made an -amazing march to take us in flank. We had only retrograded a short way, -when we obtained a view of the bulk of the French army, pushing forward -on a ridge of hills to our left. The first false attack had been made -at daylight on our right and in front, merely to draw all our force -to that point, while the Duke of Ragusa executed this movement. The -fourth division were retiring in mass, within range of the enemy's -fire, being critically situated in the valley, while the French cannon -rolled on the crest of the hills above, and poured in their shot with -effect on their right flank. - -Our division was obliquely to the rear, in column of quarter distance, -with fixed bayonets, ready to form square,[35] surrounded by large -bodies of our cavalry. To avoid an action seemed impossible. The -enemy's infantry were almost on the run, and we were marching away from -them as hard as we could. While the round shot from a flank fire flew -over us, a French division came running to engage and detain us until -others came up, and obliged us to abandon the road, and trample down -a tract of wheat. The heavy German cavalry drew close round us. The -country was open, and a vast sheet of corn enveloped us for many miles. -The men became much distressed, owing to the rapidity of the movements -and heat of the day. We were again enabled to regain the road (owing to -our numerical superiority of cavalry), which made a curve down a gentle -descent; and the men descried, at a short distance, a dirty meandering -stream, called the Guarena, near Castrillo. A buzz ran through the -ranks that water was at hand, and the soldiers were impelled forward, -with their eyes staring and mouths open; and when within fifty yards -of the stream, a general rush was made. I never saw the troops during -my service so thirsty. The discipline of the division was such, that -I have seen them pass clear water, unbroken, in the hottest weather, -suffering under fatigue known only to those under the weight of a -knapsack and accoutrements. - -All this took place under a cannonade, which had continued, at -intervals, for more than ten miles. This was following up with a -vengeance. We had no sooner crossed the river than some squadrons of -the enemy's cavalry galloped up a hill immediately overlooking us. The -division now moved more leisurely; and every one was aware that had our -cavalry given way, the division must have halted to repulse charges, -which would have given time for the French infantry to come up; and had -that been the case, the struggle must have been very sanguinary. Our -reserves now being at hand, we soon halted on a round hill, and showed -front. The fourth division did the same; when a brigade of the enemy, -covered with dust, came in contact with an equal number of the fourth -division; who, firing a volley, charged with the bayonet, and overthrew -the French in good style, taking many prisoners. - -The French army had done their best to overtake us, but became glad -of a halt as well as ourselves, and the firing ceased. We remained -stationary during the day, when I fell asleep; and after some time, -I suddenly awoke, with my lips glued together, and my person almost -roasted by the scorching rays of the sun; and actually crawled some -distance before I knew where I was. Dry biscuit was served out; but -we could not get any water until eleven at night, when I obtained a -draught of dirty water out of my batman's canteen; however, it cooled -my inside; and I believe that many hundreds dreamed that night of -limpid streams. - -On the 19th the troops stood to their arms an hour before daybreak; -but the enemy continued stationary, and well they might, as they -had made the previous night and day an enormous march to cut us off -in detail, according to the Duke of Ragusa's favourite expression; -however, at four o'clock in the afternoon the Earl of Wellington rode -up to Lieutenant Wilkinson of the 43d, who was on picquet, and said, -"What are the enemy doing?" Wilkinson replied, "The French are in -motion." The dust was flying upwards from behind the ridge of hills -in our front. The General-in-chief said, "Yes—to the right now;" and -ordered the first brigade of our division to make a corresponding -movement, by crossing a valley, to prolong our right. We ascended a -high hill, and formed on our original front, when the French army -issued from behind the hills, presenting a martial appearance, and a -grand display of moving squadrons, with brazen helmets, and a great -body of infantry flanked by their cannon. - -The river Guarena was nearly dried up, and was the only obstacle -between the contending armies, as the face of the country still -continued bare and hilly, without even a tree to be seen. The Duke of -Ragusa entered the valley to reconnoitre, surrounded by a numerous -staff, when two guns of our horse-artillery opened, and a ball struck -on the ground, and knocked up the dust in the very centre of the group, -without killing any one: they took the hint, and shifted their ground. - -Eight of the enemy's guns instantly began a heavy firing on our -brigade: the first shot struck an officer of the horse-artillery on -the side of his helmet, and displaced him from his horse; after a -short time the brigade went to the right about, to get out of range. -At that moment the Spaniards[36] attached to us simultaneously started -from the left of each regiment, and I do not recollect ever seeing -them afterwards: it was most ludicrous to witness the flight of these -patriots, in disorder, while our troops retired sloping their arms with -the utmost _sang-froid_. We soon halted, and faced about; the enemy's -guns ceased to play, and a large force of our light dragoons mounted -the hill in our rear, with sloped swords. Night coming on, we formed -columns in case of accidents. An officer and myself then stole down -the hill on horseback, in search of water for ourselves and animals: -having passed our advanced posts some distance, and hearing strange -voices, we looked at each other, and whispered that to go further would -be indiscreet, wherefore, rejoining the column, we wrapped ourselves -in our cloaks, and fell into a profound slumber, out of which we were -awakened by a great bustle and the trampling of horses. Word passed -to stand to our arms, and the Portuguese Caçadores fired some shots, -but I was so overcome by drowsiness, that I continued in a squatting -position, rubbing my eyes, too lazy to move. The confusion was caused -by two or three mules breaking their ropes, and becoming lively; not -unusual amongst such animals. - -On the 20th our division concentrated soon after daylight, and -descended into the plain of Velesa, where we observed our whole army -formed in a dense phalanx, ready to deploy in order of battle. The -French army were not in sight; however, it was evident they intended -to avail themselves of the high ground; a brigade of our cavalry had -pushed half way up the ridge, to entice them to show front, and to -develope their movements, as it appeared during the night they had -moved on a quarter circle, round our extreme right flank, and were -now pushing on, and trying to cut off our communications. The Duke of -Ragusa would not accept battle as long as he could gain ground without -it, unless we attacked at a disadvantage, as he seemed to be a perfect -master of the localities of the country. - -Our army, under all these circumstances, broke up, and began to -retreat, the different divisions arranged in such a manner, that, -should it become necessary, by wheeling to the left, they could show -front, and be ready to engage, the more particularly as both armies -were again moving parallel to each other; and in this order they -continued some leagues, and bivouacked. It became necessary for the -troops to cook with fires of stubble, as there was not any wood in the -neighbourhood. A brigade of Portuguese cavalry happened to be left at -some distance in the rear, and, as it slowly retired in line, presented -such an imposing _front to their own rear_, that, by mistake, an -artillery officer ordered them to be saluted by a couple of shot, which -unfortunately did some execution. - -On the 21st, two hours before daylight, we began our march, branching -off towards Salamanca, and took up our ground in the valley, below St. -Christoval, the enemy having moved on Alba de Tormes and its vicinity. -Toward evening, we fell in, and crossed the Tormes by a ford, under -the hill of Cabrerizos, and marched in the direction of Salamanca, the -river being on our right hand. Night approached, and a German hussar -passed us at full speed, and said, "_She's co-ming_," meaning the -French dragoons, who had pushed forward to the village of Calbarasa de -Abaxo. - -The atmosphere became now overspread with an unusual darkness; the -thunder began to roll, the lightning was vivid, and the rain fell in -torrents. During the storm a whole troop of horses galloped past at -full speed, without their riders, having broke loose from fright, -caused by the loud claps of thunder. Continuing our march, we soon -bivouacked about two miles from Salamanca, our left wing resting on the -Tormes, and in vain attempted to screen ourselves from the pelting of -the storm. However, the morning of the 22d broke beautiful and serene; -and at six o'clock we heard to our right, and about two miles to the -front, a brisk fire of small arms, which continued for an hour, and -then died away. The enemy had attacked the seventh division, in a wood -near the heights of Nuestra Señora de la Pena, to ascertain whether -the Earl of Wellington intended to give up Salamanca. A young officer -was washing his shirt in the Tormes when the order came to fall in at -eleven o'clock, and was under the necessity of putting it on wringing -wet. - -The light division advanced, and took up the ground which the seventh -division had occupied in the morning; the wood extended a short way to -our front. The division was formed in open column, concealed from a -small body of the enemy, who were stationed in small force half a mile -to our front, with two pieces of cannon, on some rocks, round the old -_quinta_ of Nuestra Señora de la Pena. From our situation we formed a -corps of reserve, communicating with the third division placed on the -top of the conical hill of Cabrerizos, on our extreme left, and rather -in advance of us, on the right bank of the Tormes. - -We had no sooner piled arms, than I began to look about me. A _Table -Mountain_, or rather one of _Los dos Arapiles_, was a short way to the -right, and a mile to the front, with a very large mass of troops formed -behind it, in contiguous columns, with one red regiment presenting -their front towards the enemy in _line_ at the top of it. Large bodies -of cavalry, the first, fourth, fifth, sixth, and seventh divisions -of infantry, with a proportion of artillery, composed the right and -centre of the army in the plain, towards Las Torres; also a corps -of _Spanish Patriots_. Placed thus, who could have thought that the -General-in-Chief intended that day to retreat? I _never did_. Nor could -I see the reason for it: it seemed advisable to beat the French before -_El Rey_ Joseph coming from Madrid, and General Chauvel, who, with a -reinforcement of cavalry and horse-artillery, had crossed the Duoro, -near Pollos, should make their appearance with additional forces. - -The arrangement of our troops was inimitable; _years_ could not have -improved it. Our right had been fairly turned since the 20th; the army -were presenting a new front, so that the _first_ or _last_, whichever -it may be termed, of military movements was to be effected, that is for -the contending armies to _change places_. The French could not attack -our left that day; if they had, the right of their army must have been -either surrounded or cut to pieces. The third division would have hung -on their flank, the light division would have engaged them in front, -the masses behind the Table Mountain could have debouched on either -side, while our cavalry, artillery, and the rest of the army, could -have moved forward, and attacked the left of the French in the plain, -which must have advanced to support such a movement. The Table Mountain -is the mark of the French marshal's discomfiture. Military men say the -French ought to have taken possession of it: but was their army up and -strong enough to maintain it? The advance of the enemy at six o'clock -in the morning was not that of their whole force: I should say, that -it was merely a _reconnaissance_; half a dozen squadrons of cavalry -and a division of infantry must not be taken for a whole army. Nor had -the French soldiers wings; for in justice to them, more could not have -been done by legs. The Duke of Ragusa might have had his army in hand, -and could have placed a corps of observation where his centre stood; -then towards evening manœuvred with his main body at a greater distance -from our right flank, and threatened to cut us off from Rodrigo, (and -thereby change positions with us) until nightfall; at the same time -keeping his communications open with Alba de Tormes, in the event of -his not deeming it advisable to follow up such a movement the next day. -At all events, the French general would have gained time, which was -precious to him, as reinforcements were on the road to join him. The -fact was, the French marshal was completely out-generalled: the Table -Mountain puzzled him; and the third division descending from Cabrerizos -at twelve o'clock, and raising clouds of dust as they passed along the -rear of our army[37], caused the Duke of Ragusa to imagine that we -were drawing off, which I am confident led him to take hasty measures, -forgetting that he had been manœuvring only on _blank_ ground the four -previous days. The Earl of Wellington saw his over haste and his error; -knowing that to support such an extension of the left, the enemy ought -to have advanced in force on the village of the Arapiles, or that they -must expose their left to a flank attack, which they did. On the other -hand, had they advanced towards the Arapiles in the plain in force, our -right and centre would have become engaged, and the troops concealed -behind the Table Mountain could have debouched, and hovered on their -right flank. - -This was the first _general action_ fought on the Peninsula, where -the Earl of Wellington _attacked_; which led the French marshal still -farther from his reckoning. The General-in-Chief, of course, did not -wish to fritter away his army in useless skirmishes, and therefore only -waited for a _fit moment_ to bring it fairly in contact with the enemy, -to _finish_ well when once commenced; and as the Duke of Ragusa brought -himself to action within the precincts of Salamanca, the advantage was -ours, the wounded soldiers having speedy assistance, while those of -the enemy who managed to drag themselves far from the field, endured -the most distressing privations. The French were formed on the heights -behind the village of the Arapiles, with an extensive forest in their -rear. - -The field of battle generally was composed of light sand, with a few -straggling blades of parched grass. A very light breeze blew towards -the French, which gave them the benefit of the clouds of dust and -the volumes of smoke arising from the immense masses in motion, -notwithstanding the heavy rain on the preceding night. Near one P. M. -the third division were passing in rear of ours. I was strolling about, -here and there coming across a dead or wounded soldier of those who had -fallen in the morning, when a Portuguese caught my attention. He was -resting on his elbows with his legs extended, suffering indescribable -pain from a wound in his stomach; his face pale, his lips discoloured, -and stifled groans issuing from his nearly lifeless body, while an -almost tropical sun was shining on his uncovered head. - -Soon after the third division had reached its destination, a column -of French descended a hill _en masse_ on our extreme right, towards -the village of Miranda. Three eighteen-pounders opened on them, which -took full effect, and spoiled their regularity. The enemy hesitated, -while the discharges of our heavy ordnance were overthrowing all -opposition. They went to the right-about to get out of range. Our -columns, formed behind the Table Mountain, now debouched in double -time, showing the French Marshal that the long-expected crisis was at -hand. A sharp fire of musketry opened on some companies of the seventh -fusileers, supported by the light companies of the foot guards, as -they broke through the village of the Arapiles at half-past two. The -third division had already brought up their right shoulders, and were -pushing on very successfully, when the enemy's horse furiously charged -the grenadiers and right of the 5th regiment, while advancing in line, -which they repulsed and continued their movement. The fire gradually -increasing, at half-past four the armies were well in contact. The -musketry rolled without intermission, only interrupted by the still -louder artillery. The fourth division, breathless, amidst showers -of grape, musketry, and round-shot, had succeeded in planting their -standards on the crest of the enemy's position; but at that moment a -French division, in close column, and at a run, with fixed bayonets, -forced them down the hill, whilst others advanced on their left flank, -which was exposed, and carried the centre of the battle again into the -valley; but our heavy cavalry, in the right centre, were bearing down -all opposition, driving the left of the enemy before them, and putting -them into the greatest confusion. Major-General Le Marchant was killed -heading this charge. Marshal Beresford[38], Generals Leith, Cole, -and Alten, were wounded. On the part of the French that fell, were -the Duke of Ragusa, Generals Fercy, Thomieres, Desgraviers, Bonnet, -Clausel, and Menne, besides their losing numerous prisoners, standards, -and cannon. At six the battle was at the height—no cessation of -musketry, and the cannon of both armies thundering away as if there -were to be no end of it. The columns of smoke and dust were rolling up -in dense volumes, so that the atmosphere became dark above the bloody -scene; yet there was not a cloud to be descried, except those which -arose from the battle. A Spanish peasant was looking on with his arms -folded; I heard him exclaim, "_Que grandisimo mundo!_[39]" - -The inhabitants of Salamanca were crowding the places of public -worship, to offer up prayers for the success of our arms. _Apropos_, it -was Sunday. - -At half-past six, a brigade of Portuguese guns opened on the enemy, -in front of our division. At seven, the Prince of Orange, one of the -General-in-Chief's aides-de-camp rode up, and ordered our division to -move on the left to attack. We moved towards the Table Mountain, right -brigade in front, in open column; having passed it, we then closed -to column of quarter distance. The enemy's skirmishers soon advanced, -and opened a brisk fire. The shades of evening now approached, and -the flashes of cannon and small arms in the centre and on the heights -were still vivid, while the enemy were making their last struggle -for victory. An English officer of General Pack's brigade passed us, -covered with dust and perspiration; he complained of the rough usage -of the French. They allowed the Portuguese to approach nearly to the -summit of the point of attack, then charged them, and used the bayonet -without remorse, taking that part of the field under their especial -protection. - -The enemy's light infantry increased, and retired very deliberately; -the ascent was gentle. The first brigade deployed, supported by the -second; the first division was marching in reserve. - -Our skirmishers were obliged to give ground to the obstinacy of the -enemy; and nearly ceased firing. The line marched over them, dead and -alive. - -Appearances indicated a severe fight, for we were near the enemy's -reserves. The Earl of Wellington was within fifty yards of the front, -when the adverse lines commenced firing. The General-in-Chief ordered -us to halt within two hundred yards of the enemy. They gave us two -volleys with cheers, while our cavalry galloped forward to threaten -their right flank. At this time I heard that a musket-ball had -perforated the Earl's cloak, folded in front of his saddle. As we were -about to charge, the enemy disappeared, not being in sufficient force -to withstand the attack. This advance was beautifully executed. - -Night coming on, the firing died away. Thus ended a battle which bore -on the destinies of Europe, by showing the decline of French power in -Spain, and leaving the British army for the first time free to pursue -their enemy at pleasure. It lasted six hours.—Our line continued its -movement. A French cavalry picquet fired on us at ten; the _ruse de -guerre_ would not do[40]. We continued to advance until midnight; and -bivouacked round a village. - -The Duke of Ragusa was carried off the field by a company of French -grenadiers. He had manœuvred well, from the 19th till the battle, and -had moved round our flank on a half circle. - -As morning dawned on the 23rd, the light division advanced, supported -by the first division, and crossing the ford, near Huerta, formed -_en masse_ in a valley, while the heavy German dragoons ascended the -hill, moving on the left of the enemy. After some time we debouched. -The Germans made a brilliant charge, and broke the French rear guard, -formed on the side of a hill near La Serna. They suffered much. The -whole of the enemy had not formed square. I observed five hundred stand -of muskets on their left, lying on the ground in line, as if they had -been piled and knocked down, and the owners had shifted as well as they -could; the muskets were not grounded to the front, but lying sideways. -The enemy only formed two squares. I saw a man and horse dead, the -rider still in his saddle. They must have received their mortal wounds -at the same instant. - -On mounting the hill, the enemy's army were in full view, in one great -mass. Our horse artillery threw some shot into them. The troops soon -halted, and the enemy were seen no more. - -[Footnote 33: Now Lord Combermere.] - -[Footnote 34: The company was formed up, and fronting the right flank -of our dragoons. We, therefore, had an admirable view of the space -between the combatants. The soldiers of the company had made ready, -holding their firelocks horizontally, or rather at the charging -position, but to have fired would have been rather unchivalric, and -would probably have destroyed the valiant French officer, who, though -our enemy, was an honour to his country.] - -[Footnote 35: Six companies of the second battalion of rifles joined us -on the retreat, just arrived from England.] - -[Footnote 36: During this campaign only a few Spaniards were attached -to each British regiment in our division.] - -[Footnote 37: The third division did not pass through Salamanca, when -they descended from the hill of Cabrerizos. They forded the Tormes, and -passed within a mile in rear of us.] - -[Footnote 38: Now Lord Beresford.] - -[Footnote 39: He was the only peasant I ever saw in battle, except one -who offered his services at Vittoria, to conduct our division over -an unprotected bridge, when the second shot fired took off the poor -fellow's head.] - -[Footnote 40: It has been affirmed, that the firing of the French -picquet of dragoons in the forest caused us to go too much to the left. -On the contrary, we were moving directly towards the ford of Huerta, -on the Tormes, as it was supposed that the Spaniards left in the old -castle of Alba de Tormes would prevent the enemy crossing the bridge at -that place. These Spaniards, however, unknown to the General-in-Chief, -had surrendered the day before.] - - - - -CHAPTER X. - - Well-performed retreat of the French after the battle of - Salamanca—Progress of the English troops—Description of the - Spanish plains and towns—Custom of the _Siesta_—Movements of - Joseph Bonaparte—Bivouac at Olmedo, and ball given there by - Lord Wellington—Advance of the British army, and entry into - Valladolid—A swimming adventure—Illness of the author, and - his removal to the town of Cuellar—Timorous conduct of the - Portuguese dragoons—The English army enters Madrid—Incidents - attending the author's further removal as an invalid to - Salamanca—General position of affairs on the Continent—Operations - of Sir R. Hill—Re-capture of Valladolid—Unsuccessful siege of - Burgos—Various movements of the forces. - - -A great portion of the French army had marched more than twelve -leagues[41] in thirty-six hours, (advancing and retreating from the -field of battle,) and had also been engaged in hard-fighting six hours -out of that time; therefore, until the night of the 23d, they had -hardly made a halt for any considerable time during two days and a -night, and I think I may venture to assert, that the rapidity of their -movements, before and after the action, and their ultimate escape -under Gen. Clausel from the very jaws of destruction, are equally -astonishing. - -Early on the morning of the 24th of July, we passed Pena-Aranda, from -whence the inhabitants sallied out, loaded with bread, wine, and -liquors, and rent the air with their acclamations in praise of the -glorious victory that we had won over the French; and even the little -boys straddled out their legs and bent forward their heads in derision -of the enemy's soldiers, to represent to us to what a state of distress -and exhaustion they were reduced. As we passed onwards, numerous -objects of commiseration, lying by the side of the road, reminded us of -the miseries of war in all its horrors: many of the French soldiers lay -dead, exposed to the scorching rays of the sun, which had so blistered -their faces, and swelled their bodies, that they scarcely represented -human forms, and looked more like some huge and horrible monsters, of -gigantic dimensions, than any thing else. It is impossible to convey -an adequate idea of such spectacles, or of the sensations they must -have endured during their last agonies. These, now inanimate, objects -had marched over sandy plains, without a tree to shelter them, while -suffering from fatigue, sore feet, and want of water; then crowding -into the battle, covered with dust, and under a scorching sun, they -had received severe wounds, and were finally dragged, or carried -on rudely-constructed bearers, from the scene of action, during -excruciating torture, and ultimately left to perish by the side of the -roads, or on stubble land, with their parched tongues cleaving to the -roof of their mouths, and (to complete their miseries) before breathing -their last sigh, to behold, with glazed and half-closed eyes, the -uplifted hand of a Spanish assassin, armed with a knife, to put an end -to their existence. These dreadful fates awaited the defeated French -soldiers in Spain; it was impossible to gaze on the mutilated bodies -of these our enemies without feelings of deep commiseration for our -fellow-creatures, who, a day or two previously, had been alive like -ourselves, and perhaps the admiration of their comrades. - -The vast _campos_ in Leon, the two Castiles, and other parts of -Spain, are apparently interminable sandy plains, covered with corn or -small stumpy vines. In summer, many of the principal rivers become -very shallow, and numerous tributary streams are dried up, leaving -their winding beds, or indentures, filled with pebbles. In many parts -there is not a tree, a hedge, or a shrub to mark private or public -boundaries, nor a drop of water to be procured. The shapeless roads, or -beaten tracts, are ancle-deep in sand, and in some places fifty yards -wide; at other spots branching off into three or four paths, which -again join at a given point. During the excessive heat of the day a -solemn silence frequently pervades these immense plains; and the high -steeples of churches, or the venerable turrets of monasteries of _las -villas_, or _pueblos_, alone present a land-mark, and direct the weary -footsteps of the traveller. - -The towns are constructed of ancient massive buildings of stone or -dingy brick, (the lower windows barred with iron,) intermixed with -innumerable churches, convents, and religious edifices of the most -ancient construction. - -During the middle of the day all shops are closed by a pair of unwieldy -doors, and the inhabitants enjoy their middle sleep or _siesta_. -At this hour the streets may be traversed without meeting a single -person, and the great monastic edifices stand in solemn grandeur as -monuments of that superstition exercised by the monks at the time of -their foundation in the darker ages. As soon as the scorching heat has -somewhat subsided, the doors are thrown open, and towards evening the -streets are thronged by merry dancers and songstresses; the tinkling of -the guitar is heard from the casements, balconies, and verandas; the -servant maids go chatting and laughing to the fountains; the muleteers -lead their animals to water; the peasant girls bring in cans of goat's -milk, and the shopkeepers sit at their portals without coats, having -their shirt sleeves tucked up, and smoking cigars. - -On the 25th we made a halt to enable the stragglers and stores of the -army to come up. On the same day El Rey Joseph had arrived at Blasko -Sancho, near Arevalo, with a reinforcement, principally composed -of Spaniards, for the purpose of joining the Duke of Ragusa; but -on gaining intelligence of the defeat his troops had sustained at -Salamanca, he countermarched in the evening towards his capital, -leaving a picquet of cavalry behind at Blasko Sancho, who were all -taken prisoners, while carousing in a wine-house, by a corporal's party -of the 14th light horse. About this time General Sir R. Hill had moved -with the second division on Zafra, in Estremadura, to observe a French -force in that quarter. - -On the 28th our division bivouacked round the ancient town of Olmedo, -where the Earl of Wellington gave a ball, with a general _invite_ -to all those officers who liked to attend. The Alcalde selected the -different ladies as usual, whose merry hearts and supple forms were -always ready for the dance. - -The following morning, an hour before daylight, we advanced, and it was -a droll sight to see the officers sleeping as they rode along after -the fatigues of the previous night, still dressed in their ball attire, -such as crimson, light blue, or white trowsers, richly embroidered with -gold or silver, velvet and silk waistcoats of all colours, decorated -in a similar manner: dandies ready alike for the dance and the fight; -most of them had received a wound, and others more, nor can I call to -mind one of the officers present at this time, including the senior -officer, who had reached twenty-five years of age. Owing to the heat of -the weather, it was the fashion of the times to wear the jacket open, -which was the only particle of dress left to denote to what nation we -belonged; as to any other uniformity for the officers, it was quite -out of the question: the fantastical dresses of those days would have -confounded the most ancient or modern disciplinarians.—The enemy still -continued their flight across the Douro through Valladolid, which city -the Marquis of Wellington entered on the 30th, at the head of a large -body of horse. The country on the banks of the Douro is remarkably -sandy, and highly cultivated with vines; we forded to the left bank -of the river on that day within two leagues of Valladolid. While -our baggage was crossing, a batman and pony got out of their depth, -and were carried down the stream a considerable distance; and so -determined was the soldier to hold on, that he disdained, at the risk -of his life, to quit his charge, and continued swimming until a rope -was thrown to him, by the assistance of which he conveyed the little -animal and his master's portmanteaus safe on shore. - -We had no sooner heard of the large town in the vicinity, than we -began to prepare for the visit; however, it struck me that it would be -very refreshing to enjoy a swim first, and also wishing my horse to -participate in the luxury, I stripped myself and mounted its back, and -together we plunged into the stream; but, as ill luck would have it, -for a moment, the provoking animal hardly made any exertion, so down -he went, and thinking there was no time to be lost, I sprang from his -back; but owing to his plunging I received a slanting kick on my chest, -such as most probably would have proved fatal, had the full weight of -the blow struck me direct. The animal, however, soon recovered itself, -and swimming with the current, it was with considerable difficulty I -succeeded in getting it on shore. - -Valladolid is a fine old city, (with a spacious square,) the -inhabitants of which were glad to see us, but evinced none of those -rapturous and warm expressions of delight displayed by those of -Salamanca. - -The next morning we crossed the river, and branched off in the -direction of Madrid. Having halted a day or two, we again became in -motion, and struck on an excellent road, leading to the capital. Many -exclaimed, "Is this the road to Madrid? are we really going to the -capital of Spain, the centre of romance"? My mind was filled with all -sorts of illusions, and various anticipations of pleasure; my rest -was disturbed, and my dreams were of Madrid; every day's march was -counted, every object brought something new, and I made up my mind to -dance every night when I should arrive. Continuing our route, we had -reached within two days' march of the city of Segovia, in the kingdom -of old Castile, and occupied a pine wood. On seeing an officer pass, -who was likely to give me every information relative to the movements -of the army, I issued from my small Portuguese tent, and entered into -conversation with him, which lasted a considerable time. Being without -my cap, I felt the top of my head extremely hot from the rays of the -sun, and was about to withdraw several times for a covering, which -unluckily I failed to do. When the dinner-hour arrived, composed of -rice and boiled beef, (without any bread or biscuit,) my appetite -failed, and I laid me down, in hopes that a few hours' sleep would -restore me. At daylight, the following morning, we were again _en -route_, and had just cleared the sandy wood, enveloped in dust, when -a sudden giddiness seized me, and I fell from my horse. On recovering -my senses, I found myself supported by an officer. There was no water -to be procured, and, on overtaking the division, I was advised to ride -gently on to avoid the dust. - -For the first time in Spain, I observed a Spanish grandee travelling -in a carriage drawn by eight mules, escorted by fourteen servants, -clothed in long yellow coats, with cocked hats, and all regularly -armed, like horse soldiers. The costume of the peasantry now became -somewhat different; one of that class was walking by my side, with a -sort of spiral cloth cap, and clad in dark brown, who asked me if I did -not admire a little girl passing on the road, whom he called a _Wappa -Chica_; she wore also a stiff spiral cap of cloth, perched on the top -of her head, with round balls of different colours up each side of -it: her hair was plaited on each side of her head, ending in a huge -pig-tail, about eight inches long, and precisely similar to those worn -by British sailors; the jacket was brown, laced up the front; a yellow -petticoat, reaching just below the knee, blue stockings, red clocks, -shoes, and silver buckles. Having travelled some leagues, I came to -a village, where I observed one of the commissaries of our division -standing at the door of a cottage, who remarked that I looked very -ill, and asked me where I was going. I told him "about half a league -farther on, when I intended to lie down under a tree until the troops -came up, as I concluded they would not proceed much farther that day." -He politely begged that I would partake of breakfast with him, as it -was already prepared, which offer I thankfully accepted. My fever -continued rapidly to increase, so that I could scarcely sit upright, -and I soon began to talk very incoherently, which induced him to put -me to bed; the division shortly afterwards filed through the village, -and bivouacked half a league in advance. In the evening, the two other -officers of the company with whom I messed, paid me a visit, and -said, "Why, what is the matter?" when I replied, "That the commissary -had used me very cruelly, and had been smothering me in blankets, to -prevent my going on to Madrid." The assistant-surgeon having felt my -pulse, asked whether I would permit him to throw some water on my head? -which I readily assented to, entreating him to do any thing to make -well. Then, being lifted out of bed, and divested of my linen garment, -I was placed in a chair, while the doctor, standing on a table, -emptied two pitchers of spring water on my crown; which produced a most -painful sensation. - -The following morning my companions assured me that I could not -be permitted to proceed; but that, as there was a station to be -established at the town of Cuellar, it would be necessary that I should -go thither, when they felt no doubt that I should speedily recover, so -as to be enabled soon to rejoin them. A car was accordingly procured, -drawn by two fine mules, with a blanket extended over the top as an -awning. - -At the expiration of two days' journey, I reached the entrance of -Cuellar, when a soldier came forward, and intimated that no sick could -enter the town until the commandant's permission was obtained; and -we were actually detained nearly two hours roasting in the mid-day -sun, before a free passage was granted us. Much exhausted, and -half suffocated, I at length obtained a most excellent billet in a -gentleman's house, where I received the greatest attention from an -assistant-surgeon belonging to one of the regiments quartered there; -being unable to quit my bed. - -At this time the army had possessed itself of the passes of Segovia and -the Guadarama, and had moved forward on the 11th of August towards -Madrid, having, in the course of their march, forced the enemy's -advanced guard of cavalry to retire; but in the afternoon these -again advanced from Malajahonda towards Rosas, to reconnoitre the -Portuguese dragoons, who were drawn up on a rising ground above the -latter village, and made a show of charging, but when they had arrived -sufficiently near to observe the hardened-looking visages of the sturdy -French heavy horse, who displayed their long shining weapons, with -brass hilts, like the Highland broadsword, with the exception of being -one-third longer—at such a sight these our allies simultaneously -wheeled about, and scampered off as fast as their Portuguese horses -could trot and gallop, followed by their unmerciful pursuers, stabbing -and hacking them down, and riding past three pieces of horse artillery -that had been overturned. The heavy dragoons of the King's German -Legion took to horse as speedily as possible, amidst the confusion, -and, after a good deal of savage sabring, the enemy retired, leaving -at night the captured guns behind them. El Rey Joseph had retired with -his followers behind the Tagus, and the following day our army entered -Madrid, where the French had injudiciously left a garrison in the Buen -Retiro, who surrendered themselves prisoners of war, just as part of -the third division, and some other detachments, were about to escalade -the works. A vast quantity of stores, powder, and ball, fell into our -hands, besides one hundred and ninety pieces of cannon, principally -dismounted. - -About the 20th of August, a detachment of our regiment, from England, -passed through Cuellar, but, as they had experienced a long march -during the hot months, an enormous number of them died, and the sick -continued to increase from the army in such a ratio, that most of us -were ordered to proceed to Salamanca. Accordingly, on the sixth day -after my arrival, I was placed in a car, drawn by bullocks, to begin -another tedious journey. The sixth division was on parade, having been -left at that station as a corps of observation, and to protect the sick -and the stores of the army. - -That night I travelled a short way, and was billeted on a very clean -house, where the _patron_ was most anxious to have all the particulars -of the late battle recounted to him; however, finding that I was not -a sufficient master of the Spanish language to satisfy his curiosity, -he was determined to make up for it by entering into the history of -his own country. It was in vain that I exerted all my patience, and -requested he would have the goodness to leave the room, pleading my -indisposition in excuse for my apparent rudeness. Having maintained -silence for a few minutes, he offered me every thing in his house, -inquired if I was better, and recommenced his volubility to such a -degree, that I almost became distracted, and was under the painful -necessity of calling in my servant, who, in half fun and half earnest, -turned him out of the room by the shoulders. - -The next day I reached Arevalo, where the market was filled with fresh -vegetables, a sight only to be appreciated by those who have travelled -over a dry country, devoid of vegetation. A smiling _muchacha_, who -sat by the side of a well-made young Spaniard, jumped up, and handed -me a large bunch of grapes, with a dignified air of affability and -frankness, so peculiar to the lower orders of that country. I obtained -a billet on a very handsome house, situated in a luxuriant garden; and, -on being supported out of the car, I was so weak that I fell down, and -continued in fainting fits for some time, my servant all the while -sousing me with water in imitation of _the Doctor_. The fascinating -_Señorita_ of the house, about seventeen years of age, very kindly -administered every attention; and at night, with a small lamp, remained -in a recess, in readiness to offer me liquids, for which I continually -inquired. My recollection did not entirely forsake me, but my head was -in a bad state, so that I fancied I saw groups of monkeys grinning at -the foot of my bed; and, as I was unable to endure the slender rays -of the lamp, I begged of the young lady to retire. At such a request -her countenance pourtrayed every mark of disappointment: whether she -considered me as one of the deliverers of her country, or whether so -young a girl, residing in so sequestered a spot, fancied me under -her especial protection, I know not; but I do know that her amiable -solicitude and her lovely eyes made such an impression, that she -continued the mistress of my thoughts, and heroine of my fancy, for a -long period afterwards. - -Taking my farewell on the following morning, and apologizing to the -little _Señorita_ for my want of gallantry, I proceeded on my journey, -and at the end of four hours reached the middle of an extensive plain, -when one of the bullocks became dead lame, and the enraged driver -declared vehemently that he would go no farther; my servant, therefore, -dismounted from my palfrey, and placed me on its back. We made for -the distant steeple, which skirted the horizon, as the point of our -destination. At the expiration of a toilsome ride, we reached the -_Pueblo_, and there sojourned until the next morning. In two more days -we reached Alba de Tormes; I was quartered at an _apothecary's shop_, -where I lay on the mattress for twelve hours in a sort of stupor; on -recovering, in some degree, my servant fancied that I was dying, and -proposed sending for the Spaniard, which I would by no means consent -to, from the apprehension that he would bleed me to death. - -The next day, while quietly passing through a wood, at a lonely spot, -my horse made a sudden start, and, on looking to the right, I observed -a dead man, perfectly naked, placed against a large piece of rock. -He had been killed at the battle of Salamanca. His hair was long and -grey; his beard had grown to a considerable length; and his arms and -legs had been placed in an extended position; in fact, he was in an -exact fencing attitude, in an extraordinary state of preservation, and -presenting, of course, a dreadful spectacle. - -I noticed during the period that I was in Spain, that those soldiers -killed in action, who were exposed to the rays of the sun, immediately -became a mass of corruption, but of those, on the contrary, who fell -under trees or in shady places, exposed to heavy dew or rain, the skin -became as hard as leather, and they would remain in that state for a -very considerable period, unless they were devoured by wild animals or -birds of prey. I have often seen vultures feeding on dead horses (that -had been killed in battle) so fat, that they could scarcely take wing, -or raise themselves from the ground. - -On reaching Salamanca, I obtained a billet, on presenting which, I -was treated with the greatest insolence by the man of the house, who -declared that I might enter, but that he had no accommodation for -my servant; under these circumstances, I was under the necessity of -sitting down in the street, until the soldier went to seek elsewhere -for better success. After some farther delay, he procured me another -on a public notary, where I was civilly received; but in the middle -of the day my _patron_, smelling of tobacco and garlic, came in to -take a _siesta_, in one of the two beds in a large recess. I asked him -if he intended to sleep there; he replied "_Si, Señor_." To such an -arrangement I objected; but he would not give up the point; a struggle -then ensued between us, which lasted some minutes, although eventually -I made him surrender. He was merely a diminutive old man; but I had -become weak from the effects of my fever; and the scene was so amusing, -that his own son, with a smiling countenance, was quietly looking on. - -A hospital mate being put in requisition, the first dose administered -to me was an _emetic_, and whenever I complained, the same dose was -repeated; therefore, whenever he visited me, I invariably declared -_that I was better_. - -Our army had now occupied the heart of Spain, and the enemy, with rapid -strides, were endeavouring to concentrate in the distant provinces -round our centre, blowing up magazines, and eating up all before -them, like a swarm of locusts. Napoleon was at this period traversing -the wilds of Russia with his grand army, and his magnificent and -highly-appointed Imperial guard. _The banners of Austria, Prussia, -Italy, and the Germanic States, were marching under his control._ -The _north_ and _south_ of Europe were in a blaze, and had become -the extreme points of contest, which were ultimately to decide this -mighty struggle for supremacy. The victory of Salamanca had shaken the -combinations of the enemy in all parts of Spain, and put the whole -of them in motion. On the 25th of August they destroyed their works -before Cadiz, leaving behind them stores, heavy artillery, and mortars, -many of the latter having been cast at Seville, by the order of the -Duke of Dalmatia, for the purpose of throwing shells into the town of -Cadiz.[42] Some Spaniards and British immediately advanced from the -lines, and took forcible possession of Seville. - -On the 29th of August, Sir R. Hill, with the second division, entered -Illerena, and pushed on to Ayllones, on the borders of Estremadura; -but, finding the French were retrograding on Cordova and Granada, -for the purpose of communicating with Joseph, who, in like manner, -was forming a junction with the Duke of Albufera, intending to make -Valencia the centre and the base of his future operations against -Madrid; Sir R. Hill, thereupon, by a flank movement, marched towards -the city of Medellin, on the left bank of the Guadiana, so as to be in -readiness to act wherever his presence might be required, or to open -his line with the third, fourth, and light divisions, cantoned in the -vicinity of Madrid. - -The General-in-Chief no sooner saw a probability of his right -flank being cleared of the enemy, than he set off from Madrid, and -concentrated the first, fifth, sixth, and seventh divisions round -Arevalo, (early in September,) with a force of cavalry and artillery, -passed the Douro, and retook Valladolid, which had been re-occupied by -the enemy for a short time. On the 19th he crossed the river Arlanzon, -and laid siege to the old castle of Burgos, bristled with cannon and -the bayonets of its hardy defenders. Various attempts by escalade, -mining, explosions, and breaching were tried for a month without -success, owing to the want of a sufficiency of battering artillery, -and to the obstinate defence made by the enemy, who firmly lined the -walls, and threw their balls and bullets with deadly aim against the -assailants. The enemy's vanguard was at Briviesca, and his main body -behind the river Ebro, during the greater part of the siege. - -In the mean time the second division had moved, in the middle of -September, across the river Guadiana, through Truxillo Jaraceijo, -towards Almaraz, and then crossed the Tagus by a pontoon bridge, and -continuing its movement on the right of that river, passed Talavera de -la Reyna, and arrived on the 30th at Toledo, occupying both banks of -the river Tagus. General Sir Rowland Hill pushed forward his advance -to Yepes and its vicinity, taking the command of the right wing of -the army, composed of the second, third, fourth, and light divisions, -besides cavalry and artillery stationed in the vicinity of Madrid. - -[Footnote 41: About forty-eight miles.] - -[Footnote 42: One of these mortars was brought to England, and is now -placed on the south side of St. James's Park.] - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - - The author becomes convalescent, and proceeds to rejoin the - army—Guadarama mountains—Park and palace of the Escurial—An - enthusiastic native—A Spanish bandit—British quarters in - Madrid, and description of the city—English theatricals—Renewed - activity of the contending armies—The British troops evacuate - Madrid—Romantic attachments—Alba de Tormes—Re-occupation of - Salamanca—Military discomforts—Skirmishing affairs—The French - obliged to desist from pursuit through fatigue—Various positions - of the British forces during the winter of 1812-13. - - -For my part, I had no sooner contrived to get out of bed at Salamanca, -than I began to pace up and down the room, and in a very few days -gained sufficient strength to be enabled to inhale the fresh air in the -cool of the evening. While walking slowly along, I met one of the staff -doctors of our division, who expressed much regret that he had not -been aware of my being sick in that town, and offered every assistance -in his power; I expressed my thanks, but informed him that I intended -to join my regiment. He asked me if I were mad, and insisted on my -giving him a promise not to think of prosecuting so wild a scheme for -the present; which I was necessitated to acquiesce in, from a fear that -he would effectually stop my rambles: however, two days afterwards, -I presented myself to the medical board, which sat daily to examine -officers: the group of _medicos_ were seated round a table, and, -having eyed them particularly, I experienced great relief at finding -the worthy doctor did not form one of the party. I felt considerable -agitation, (from a fear that they would not sanction my departure,) -which gave me a colour; in fact, I reported myself in perfect health, -and obtained permission to proceed to rejoin the army with a strong -detachment, who were about to depart for that purpose. At five o'clock -next morning, the day before I was to recommence my journey, my servant -entered my quarter, and announced that my mule had been stolen, during -the night, out of the stable, and that my horse had been running about -loose, with the door wide open. This unwelcome intelligence caused me -to tremble so violently, that I sank down on the bed, nor do I ever -recollect being so agitated in my life, for I had no means left to -supply its place, and I could not have walked in my weak state half a -league. Fortunately an officer, who had just come from England to join -us, relieved my anxiety, by offering to carry my baggage on one of his -animals. - -At daylight the next morning we started. The spangled dew still hung -on the trees, the morning breeze refreshed my body and mind, and -with exhilarated spirits I felt as if new life and fresh vigour had -been conveyed throughout my frame. The dead French soldier was still -stationary in the wood, and in exactly the same position already -described. On re-entering Alba de Tormes, I passed the _apothecary's -shop_, with exultation, which only four weeks before I had entered in -such a miserable plight. When we passed through Arevalo, one of the -narrow streets leading to the Plaza was choked up with cars from the -city of Burgos, crammed to overloading with exhausted, speechless, and -wounded Highlanders, covered with hot sand, and many of them slumbering -unto death; their pallid countenances portended the speedy dissolution -of their lingering sufferings, while their sable plumes and torn -tartans hung loosely on the pointed stakes, which formed the temporary -sides of the rude vehicles. I searched in vain, through every narrow -avenue, and amongst the numerous convents and monasteries, for the -house of the young lady who had been so attentive to me in that town. -I well recollected the high walls of one of those fabrics inclosing -one side of the garden; I was, therefore, in hopes that in some spot of -difficult access, I should find the fair object of my solicitude. The -whole of the following day (during our halt) was passed, however, in -fruitless search. - -Continuing the march, our little column consisted of three hundred and -fifty men, and when within sight of the distant villages, which were -surrounded by extensive plains, the church bells rang merry peals. -Almost the whole of these places had been entrenched by temporary -works, and the churches loopholed by the French posts of communication, -to protect their small detachments from being destroyed or cut off by -the _guerillas_, or surprised by the infuriated peasantry. Shortly -before we reached the Guadarama mountains, we struck into the high road -to Madrid; for many miles there was scarcely a house to be seen. At -length we came to a _venta_, on the right of the road, but the house -had been thoroughly gutted, and it was impossible for the owners of it -to procure any thing for us to eat. The country bore a very solitary -aspect until we began to ascend the pass by a paved road, cut in a -zigzag direction up the face of the mountain, on the top of which -stands a marble fountain. The prospect from this point is very grand, -commanding a distant view of Madrid, of the palace of the Escurial, -and of the rugged mountains extending towards Segovia, which are -covered with snow during the greater portion of the year. The poor -village of the Guadarama is situated in a valley at the foot of the -grand pass, in the kingdom of new Castile. - -Towards evening, our horses being in some degree refreshed, we rode -into the park of the Escurial, which is of considerable extent, and -lies adjacent to the village, producing pretty good pasturage, but -infested by prowling wolves and wild boars. The trees are generally of -small growth, consisting of oak, carob, ash, and cork. The front of the -palace of the Escurial looks towards the mountains of the Guadarama, -and is built of a grey granite, in the shape of a gridiron. This -culinary utensil is represented in the books of mass, on the doors, and -in various parts of the building, which is perforated by innumerable -windows. The pantheon of the palace is octagon, composed of marble; -about fourteen niches are occupied by embalmed kings and queens; and -there are a variety of other curiosities worthy the observation of the -traveller. Returning towards the village, the old man of the house -assured us the effect of the extraordinary edifice we had explored -was nothing to the wonder and astonishment we should experience at -the grand bull fights of Spain. The tears rolled down his furrowed -cheeks as he ran about the room, (which was paved with red tiles,) -representing the wild Andalusian bull staring with surprise on first -entering the arena; and then, getting astride of a chair, showed us -how the _Picador_ received the bellowing bull on his lance, and the -way he was frequently tossed, mangled, and killed, by the infuriated -animal. Then again, he skipped and danced about the room to represent -the men insinuating the pointed darts and crackers into the animal's -neck; and finally gave us the _graceful Matador_, with a red cloak -slung over one arm, and a short sword in his hand, making his obeisance -with a profound bend to the _señoras_ and _caballeros_, who excite him -by countless _vivas_, and the waving of the white hands, and whiter -pocket-handkerchiefs, to dispatch the staggering bull at one thrust. -At length the ancient _caballero_ became so much exhausted by his -exertions and feelings, that he fell back motionless in his chair, -exclaiming, "_Oh, los ladrones Franceses!_ they have eaten up all -our Andalusian bulls, killed our poultry, corrupted all our _mozas_, -and knocked all our _Santa Marias_ from the altars, and out of their -_sacred niches_ by the road side." - -During this rhodomontade we remained quiet spectators, quaffing the -excellent wine which our host had extracted from a concealed deposit. - -Taking our departure the next morning, two of us being some short -distance behind the detachment, at a very lonely spot, we observed a -Spaniard of most ferocious aspect, with huge mustachios, a capacious -_sombrero_, and clad in a leathern jacket, like a cuirass, with a short -broad sword by his side, and a brace of pistols in his broad belt, -which was buckled round his waist. We were instantly convinced that he -was a robber on the look out, in the capacity of a spy, for his hidden -_camarados_; however, saluting him as we passed, which he returned by -a cold and distant bend of the head, the few baggage animals being in -sight, we thought it necessary to warn the soldiers in charge to be on -their guard, although, generally speaking, the British might pass all -over the country without danger; yet some robberies had been committed -in Spain and Portugal also by banditti. - -This day we halted at the village of Rosas, about two leagues from the -capital. The country is bare and hilly, and even when within half a -mile of Madrid, the traveller might fancy himself in a bare wilderness, -as the town stands isolated in the midst of a rugged plain, skirted on -the north side by distant mountains, and there is not the least sign -of traffic, with the exception of a few mules or asses loaded with -chopped straw, the usual forage (instead of hay) given to animals; all -other vegetation being parched up, and even the shallow river of the -Manzanares having at that time ceased to flow. - -After the short absence of seven weeks, having travelled, as already -described, more than two hundred and thirty miles, and nearly recovered -from the effects of my fever, I rejoined our first brigade quartered in -Madrid, as well as the third division; the second brigade was stationed -two leagues from the town, in support of those troops cantoned in the -line of the Tagus. Here I received the welcome information, that since -I had quitted the division they had not seen the enemy. The troops were -quartered in the various convents and monasteries, and the officers -were billeted on the most splendid houses; many of these had white -papers stuck on the windows, to denote that the former occupiers of -them had followed the fortunes and court of _El Rey Joseph_, thereby -deserting their country's cause. - -One of my friends, whom I had left under a tree, I found occupying -the house of a marquis, and decorating and perfuming himself before a -splendid toilette, previously to making his bow to the beautiful and -attractive object of all his desires, who had invited him to spend -that evening at her house. He described to me their proud entry into -Madrid as a conquering army; then the variegated drapery hanging from -the windows, the acclamations of the people, and all the beauty of the -place welcoming them, striking guitars, tambourines, and castanets, -with eyes beaming love and admiration in a manner indescribable, -known and felt only by those who have won the battle, after having -been wandering under the heaven's bright blue canopy for sixty days, -and traversing hundreds of miles over burning plains. Another officer -reposed his limbs on a bed of down, (enveloped by white satin curtains -edged with long gold bullion,) encompassed by mirrors, the whole -surmounted by a gilded helmet, adorned with a noble plume of ostrich -feathers. The rest of the furniture in this superb mansion was composed -of the most costly materials. - -Madrid is a compact town; the lower windows of all the monasteries and -houses are defended by iron bars; many of the streets are spacious, and -the whole of them are remarkably clean. The Plaza Major is a square of -lofty houses, many of them stained of various colours; the windows are -very close together, out of which hang mats and drapery of a variety -of striped patterns, to shade the rooms from the mid-day sun. Here -is the principal market for vegetables and other commodities, and it -invariably presents a bustling and busy scene. The Royal Palace is -of a square form, and surrounds an interior court-yard, which has -two gateways. The grand staircase rises out of the court-yard near -the principal entrance; it is a most splendid work, wide and lofty, -leading into the principal suite of rooms, magnificently furnished. As -we passed through them, I noticed the man in charge locking the doors -after us: when, therefore, the curiosity of the admiring spectators was -satisfied, we were ushered into another, and again made prisoners for -the time being. A picture, beautifully executed, represented Napoleon -in his younger days crossing the Alps, at the head of his bare-footed -army, and was considered, by those who had seen him, to be an exact -likeness; the face was extremely handsome. The Callé Major and Alcala -are the principal streets of the town; the latter is wide and spacious, -lined by large buildings, leading direct into the _Prádo_, which is -much admired for its broad walks, divided into avenues by rows of -trees, and running the whole length of one side of the town, being -terminated at each end by gates leading from it. On the north side -stands the Buén Retiro, encompassed by temporary works, (which had -been thrown up by the French,) gardens, and pleasure grounds. - -The fountains stand at certain distances from each other in the middle -of the walks, and are framed after antique models. The water from one -of them is esteemed the best in the town; the broad walk in the centre -is adorned by these cascades, and is crowded every evening by the best -company. It is here the stranger may examine, with advantage, the -costume, style, and gait of the Spanish ladies. Their dress is composed -of a mantilla or veil, gracefully thrown over the head, a long-waisted -satin body, black silk petticoats, fringed from the knee downwards, -white silk stockings, with open clocks, kid shoes, of white or black; -they carry a large fan in their little hands, which they open and shut -as they glide along; it serves to shade them from the sun, or to salute -their different acquaintances as they pass, which they do by shaking -the fan rapidly, and simpering an affable smile. - -At sunset the bells of the convents and churches give notice for -offering up the evening prayer to the Virgin; instantaneously the crowd -becomes stationary, the _Caballeros_ take off their hats and remove the -cigars from their mouths, the _Señoras_ cover their faces with their -fans, while they inwardly mutter a short prayer. At the expiration -of a few minutes, the profound silence is broken, when all again are -in motion. In this place, dedicated to pleasure, our time was so -divided as to be occupied night and day, either in dancing or at the -_tertúlias_; public balls were also held twice a week at the _Callé de -Baños_ and _el Principe_. - -The officers of our division were anxious to display their powers as -actors to their beloved _señoritas_; therefore, among other things, -they were occupied in ordering dresses, and studying their theatrical -parts. "The Revenge" was fixed upon as the tragedy to astonish the -Spaniards. Capt. Kent, of the rifle corps, played the part of Zanga, -in _El Teátro del Principe_, with due solemnity, and the piece went -off in silence, until he began to move backwards and forwards, like -the pendulum of a clock, his sinewy arm and clenched fist, cased in a -black silk stocking, or glove, encircled by a shining bracelet—which -caused the muleteers in the gallery to roar with laughter. The -_señoras_ tittered, and held their fans to their faces. During the -remainder of the evening poor _Zanga_ was treated more like a comic -than a tragic character, and whenever he raised his arm, which he had -frequent occasion to do, the same round of salutations greeted him on -all sides, such as "_Arré Múlo_," &c. &c. At the conclusion of the -piece, a Spaniard and a girl danced a _bolero_, in inimitable style: -both of them were habited in male attire; the black hair of the female -was clubbed up behind, and tied with a bunch of ribbons hanging down -her back; she wore a richly embroidered silk jacket, white kerseymere -breeches, fitting tight to the shape, white silk stockings, shoes, and -buckles. She rattled the _castanets_ exquisitely, and beat admirable -time with her pretty little feet. - -On the 21st of October our division was hastily concentrated, and -first moved to some lonely villages, and then to Alcala de Henarez, -one of the principal universities of Spain. On the night of the 21st -the Marquis of Wellington raised the siege of the castle of Burgos, -and slowly retired on the Douro, followed by Gen. Souham. Joseph and -the Duke of Dalmatia had also formed a junction, and were making -various demonstrations on the line of the Tagus. On the 22nd, the -second division was put in motion on that river to observe the enemy's -movements. On the 24th, the third division, which had continued in -Madrid, moved towards Pinto, on the road to Aranjuez, in support of the -fourth and second divisions. On the 26th, the second division crossed -to the right bank of the Tagus, and extended its left on the Jarama. -On the same day we marched four leagues and a half from Alcala, and -entered Arganda, which is situated on the high road from Valencia. -The enemy continued to make such a variety of movements, that it was -impossible to ascertain positively whether he would attempt his grand -push on the south or east side of Madrid, which obliged General Hill to -show front on two sides of a square, for the protection of the great -roads leading towards the capital, across the rivers Tagus, Jarama, and -Henarez. - -At ten o'clock at night (of the same day we had entered Arganda,) the -bugle-horns sounded the assembly, which never occurred without the -most urgent necessity, as it was not customary for the horns to sound -when manœuvring near the enemy, except under peculiar circumstances. -The orderlies usually passed round, and gave the word to _pack up and -accoutre_, no farther questions being asked either by officers or -soldiers, and all repaired to the alarm post, and patiently awaited -farther orders; and that so often without seeing an enemy, owing to -the variety of marches and countermarches in war, that such orders had -ceased to be a novelty or any surprise to us. The division soon fell -in: I had to precede the column on duty with another officer, who was -mounted on a sorry lank pony, which, on being touched on the near or -off side, kicked out with one leg at every mule that passed him, in the -most singular manner. I never recollect laughing more heartily; the -muleteers cursed and swore, and particularly one who received a severe -kick on the leg. - -This class of men wear a large hat, or a pocket-handkerchief of various -colours, tied tight round the head, with the corner hanging down their -backs, and a sort of red Moorish sash round the loins, dark blue, or -green velveteen breeches, open at the knee, and leather gaiters, (with -innumerable buttons up the sides,) open in the middle, so as to show -the calf of the leg to advantage. The mules are very gaily caparisoned, -with bells at the head, and the backs closely shaved; the tails tied -up in bunch, with red or other coloured worsted binding; and when they -are loaded, the men sit on the top astride, singing boisterously. They -usually bivouac in the woods, when the day's journey is finished, cover -themselves with a tarpauling, and allow their mules to browse about all -night. These muleteers robbed the English army of hundreds of mules -during the war. I lost two myself, and, during the time the light -division was quartered in Madrid, the _ladrones_ caused false keys to -be made to fit the stable-doors, and actually, in the middle of the -day, took the animals clear off, which were never afterwards heard of. - -At the end of a tedious night march, the division bivouacked in the -morning on a rising ground, about a mile from Alcala, watching the -right bank of the river Henarez, and the cross-road leading from -Arganda; the enemy, however, did not make their appearance, and at -night we entered the town. The troops lay on their arms under the -piazzas, which run through nearly all the principal streets; the -inhabitants were so fearful that we might become engaged in the -streets, that they illuminated the town for three successive nights. - -On the 30th we crossed the Jarama at a bridge near St. Fernando, which -was already mined to blow up, and continued our retreat on Madrid. -A slight affair also took place more to the right, at Puente Largo, -between the van of the enemy and our troops, who had formed a junction -with us from Cadiz. The General-in-chief, on the same day, made a -movement to his left towards Ruêda, on the left of the Douro, causing -the bridges to be destroyed, right and left, on that river, to guard -his flanks, to enable him to keep open his communication with his right -wing at Madrid, and to cover its rear and left flank while retrograding -from that place, through Arevalo to Salamanca. - -Towards nightfall, as we approached Madrid, a slight rain fell, -and when within a league of the town, the whole of the dismounted -cannon taken from the enemy in the _Buén Retiro_ were blown up with -a tremendous explosion, which quite convinced us that a retreat was -decided on. We hastily traversed, by column of companies, the long -walks of the _Prádo_, which reverberated with the tramping of the -soldiers' footsteps, and on passing the last gate of the town without a -halt, we observed the bright fires of a portion of our army in bivouac -on the distant hills, on the road leading to the Guadarama, which sight -completed the gloomy thoughts of many who had formed attachments, and -had, until this moment, cherished hopes of once again passing a short -time in the society of the fair objects who had captivated their hearts -in Madrid. We filed to the summit of the comfortless bleak hills, and -as our baggage did not reach us until two hours before daylight, we -passed a tolerably uncomfortable night. - -At nine o'clock in the morning, with gladdened hearts, we received -orders again to advance on Madrid, but our anticipations were of short -duration, as we merely halted without the walls to cover the troops who -had been marching all night from the direction of Arganda and Aranjuez. - -Many of the ladies came on the walks to take their last farewell, and -just as we were moving off, forming the rear guard, in the afternoon -of the 31st, a beautiful girl, lightly clothed, refused to leave her -lover, an English officer in the Portuguese Caçadores, who dismounted, -tied his silk handkerchief round her neck, and placed her sideways -on his horse. Towards evening the wind blew keenly, and I saw her -enveloped in a soldier's great-coat. Many females left their homes in a -similar manner with the French officers, and travelled about with the -army, on horseback, and astride, clad in uniform of the Polish lancers, -or hussars, splendidly embroidered, with crimson trowsers, made very -wide, in the Cossack fashion. The ladies of Spain frequently ride -astride, with pantaloons and hessian boots, with a habit buttoning up -before and behind, and, when they are on horseback, it is unfastened -and hangs down on each side, to conceal their legs from view. - -On the 1st of November we bivouacked in the park of the Escurial, where -two wild boars galloped through the lines, and caused great confusion; -a soldier of the 52d was overturned by one of them, which bounded over -him without doing any further damage. - -During the retreat the enemy did not press us, nor were our marches -unusually long; in fact, every thing went on so regularly, that -several days' march passed with merely the usual incidents. The whole -army from Burgos and Madrid were now in junction, the left marching on -the heights of St. Christoval, to cover Salamanca, and the right on -Alba de Tormes, to take up a line of defence on the right bank of the -Tormes. - -On the evening of the 7th, our division reached within a league -and a half of Alba, where it drew up until temporary defences were -constructed, to resist the enemy at that small town. The country -was perfectly open, without a house or tree to be seen, and I was -contemplating the dreary prospect, and regretting the loss of my -blanket, placed under the saddle of my horse, which I had sent to -the rear, sick, on the previous morning. As the night closed on us, -the rain began to pour down in torrents; we were without food, or a -particle of wood to light fires. - -Before daybreak we stood to our arms, looking out for the enemy: what -a moment for an engagement, our clothes completely soaked through! -At about eleven o'clock, the order came to retire, when we filed -through the narrow streets of Alba, and crossed the bridge, where we -found sappers hard at work, mining, and laying barrels of powder to -blow up the centre arch, if necessary. The river Tormes had swollen -considerably, owing to the torrents from the mountains: therefore the -fords became difficult and uncertain. Continuing our march on the left -of the river, we entered a dripping wood, half-way to Salamanca, when -we found our baggage waiting for us. The division being dismissed, all -the trees were filled with soldiers, cutting and tearing down huge -branches to build huts. - -In a short time great fires blazed up in every direction, while -the soldiers encircled them with joyful countenances. Having been -disencumbered of our drenched clothes, and rations having been served -out, we set to work making dumplings; before dark the canteens were -laid with smoking tea, rum, hot puddings, and beef. This was, indeed, -a relishing and luxurious meal. The whole of the spirits having been -exhausted, a heavy slumber (under a tottering hut) put an end to our -carousal. - -The next morning, before daylight, we were again under arms, and moved -towards Salamanca, to occupy that town with the first division and some -Spaniards. Every morning we assembled an hour before daybreak, without -its walls, waiting the approach of the enemy. I noticed the Spanish -officers invariably covering their mouths, before the sun had risen, -with their cloaks, and blowing the smoke of their cigars through their -noses. - -The Duke of Dalmatia moved slowly and with great caution, and evidently -wishing, if possible, to force us to retire without coming to blows. -His army had been collected at vast trouble, and by enormous marching; -many of his troops had marched, within the last three months and a -half, over seven or eight hundred miles of ground. On the 10th, the -enemy made a strong reconnoissance in front of Alba de Tormes, but, -after a heavy firing of artillery, they drew off at finding they could -make no impression. On the 12th, some musketry was distinctly heard -in the direction of the position of San Christoval. Our division had -been dismissed as usual early in the morning, but was again formed, and -ordered to crown those heights, where we remained the whole day, the -alarm having been occasioned by a few Spanish _guerillas_ firing at the -French cavalry. - -On the 14th, we all left Salamanca, and moved by the left bank of -the Tormes, on the road towards Alba de Tormes, the enemy having -crossed the river by some fords, two leagues above that town. As soon -as this movement was ascertained by the General-in-chief, he made a -reconnoissance under a fire of cannon, and found the enemy strongly -posted on the left of the Tormes, at Mozarbes; the second division -remained near Alba. In the evening our advance fell back, and the -whole army was collected in the neighbourhood of the Arapiles, and -showed front in the same direction as at the previous battle; it -was supposed during the night by every one, that a great action -would be fought on the following day. The country was illuminated -for miles around from the quantity of fires, which marked the line -of our bivouac. All hands caroused until nearly midnight, being -fully determined to make themselves happy previously to the supposed -approaching struggle; then, stretching themselves under the trees or -around the fires, they tranquilly slept until an hour before daybreak, -when we formed and stood to our arms, and were again dismissed. - -At noon the baggage animals were ordered to the rear, and soon after -we observed great masses of our army, moving in dense columns from the -right by echelon of divisions towards the great forest. The enemy had -laboured hard to strengthen Mozarbes, as a _point d'appui_, under cover -of which they continued to extend their left at a distance, to outflank -our right, and to threaten our communications with Ciudad Rodrigo. At -about two o'clock in the afternoon, our division followed the movements -of the army. The rain had begun at mid-day, and now fell in torrents, -and we passed a miserable night under the trees. As soon as the road -was distinguishable in the morning, we were again on the march, -ankle-deep in mud, which tore the shoes from off the soldiers' feet; -in this manner we trudged along the whole day; towards evening we saw -the enemy on our left[43] flank, when a little cannonading took place. -One hour after nightfall, we drew up under the trees, hungry, and in -the most miserable plight; the fires were kindled with difficulty, and -while roasting on one side, we were shivering and perishing on the -other, the rain still pouring down most unmercifully, as if the very -flood-gates of the heavens had opened on us; for we were literally -flooded. - -On the morning of the 17th, not having received any orders to move, we -were in groups roasting acorns to satisfy the cravings of hunger, when -an officer, who had ridden a short way to the left, came unexpectedly -on the French heavy horse, who were stealing through the wood, and -would have made a prisoner of him, had it not been for the speed of -his English horse, which was at full gallop as he passed us, calling -out, "The enemy's cavalry!" "Fall in!" "Join the ranks!" The division -were only waiting for orders to move off, and instantly seized their -arms and debouched from the wood, and formed contiguous columns, with -our horse-artillery filling up the intervals. A few of the enemy's -horse, with polished helmets, and covered with white cloaks, appeared -moving backwards and forwards amongst the trees, looking at us. Two -officers of infantry, mounted on English horses, went to reconnoitre -them, when the enemy tried to decoy them into the thicket. A troop of -light horse were formed on our left flank, with sloped swords, but -they did not throw out any skirmishers to feel the enemy in front. -After a short time, the division retired, and crossed a narrow rivulet, -and re-formed. One company of our regiment was left amongst some old -houses on the margin of the stream, when some French dragoons slowly -came forward to look at us; one in particular went to our right, as -if he intended to cross the stream, when a German hussar, (I believe -an orderly,) went towards him, and challenged the Frenchman to single -combat, provided he would cross the water. The Frenchman laughed, -and made a similar proposal to him, as he approached quite close to -the edge of the water: thereupon the German advanced, but instead of -fighting they entered into a jocular conversation, and parted very good -friends. Our division again went to the right about, and moved off -to the rear; fortunately the road continued very wide, which enabled -us to march in column of quarter distance, with screwed bayonets, -and ready to form squares. The soldiers of the division bore the wet -and privation with unexampled fortitude; nor did they lose their -organization. At three o'clock in the afternoon, things began to look -black; we heard that all the baggage had been captured, and that -Lieut.-Gen. Sir E. Paget was taken prisoner; all this having occurred -on the very road which it was absolutely necessary for us to traverse. - -The Marquis of Wellington at this time joined us, and continued riding -on the left flank, and quite close to our column, for he could not -well join the main body of his army, as the enemy's horse scoured -the road, and all our cavalry had retired. It was one of the chances -of war, and could not be wondered at in a forest of such an amazing -extent, that the army was three days passing through it. The French -heavy horse continued to accompany us on each flank amongst the trees, -and frequently spoke to the soldiers in the ranks. We made two halts, -to keep the men fresh, and in good order to engage, and then resumed -a quick march, but not so rapid as to cause any soldiers to be left -behind. The column preserved a profound silence; not a shot was -discharged, for, had we begun to fire, the noise would have brought -from all quarters the enemy, who could not be aware otherwise of our -isolated march. - -Just before we reached a break in the forest, at four o'clock, it -was absolutely necessary to detach a few skirmishers to prevent the -audacious French horse from almost mixing in our ranks. The enemy's -infantry were now coming up, mixed with their cavalry. Owing to the -reverberation in the wood and dense atmosphere, the report of each -musket sounded as loud as a three-pound mountain gun. The Marquis of -Wellington made a sweep round the column, to examine for the best -fighting ground, while a lively firing of musketry took place close -on the left, and in rear of our column, intermixed with the shouting -of our assailants and the whizzing of bullets. As we emerged from the -forest, to our surprise we were saluted on the left by a number of -the enemy's cannon, posted on a high hill just above San Muñoz. The -division broke into double time across the plain, about half a mile, -and made for the ford of the river Helebra. The second brigade branched -off to the right to cross elsewhere, to extend a line of defence behind -its banks. The seventh division was already formed in close columns on -the other side of the river, near San Muñoz, and suffering terribly -from the effect of the round shot. - -Two squadrons of our heavy dragoons came forward to protect us over the -valley. We had no sooner reached the river, than we plunged in up to -our middles in water, (under a sharp fire of artillery,) and we were -obliged to scramble up the steep bank, (having missed the ford,) by -which the troops were thrown into a momentary malformation. While we -were forming up in a hurried manner behind the horse-artillery, who -were drawn up to protect the ford, the Marquis of Wellington rode up in -front of the left of number one company, and looked placidly at them, -saying, "The enemy must not cross here." At this moment a round-shot -carried away one of our officer's legs, and knocked a German hussar -from his horse, leaving his hands hanging by a few shreds or sinews, -notwithstanding which he got up and walked off, with an agonized -countenance, and his head bent forward, resting on his breast. - -The three companies of our regiment who had been left in the opposite -wood, now issued out at full speed, pursued by the enemy, and were -obliged to run the gauntlet across the plain, with the round shot of -both armies flying over their heads. The second brigade, which had -already formed on our left, were keeping up a sharp fire of musketry, -to oppose the French crossing the river. A Portuguese regiment was -stationary, in close column, two hundred yards behind us. I saw three -cannon-balls strike in precisely the same spot, carrying away a number -of men each time. The firing of artillery and musketry continued until -after dark, and then gradually died away, when the soldiers of the -contending armies approached the river for water, and amicably chatted -to each other in their different languages. - -The French infantry wore broad-toed shoes, studded with nails, -wide trowsers of Spanish brown, a brown hairy knapsack, a broad -leather-topped cap, decorated with a ball, and shining scales, and -fronted by a brazen eagle, with extended wings. In action they usually -appeared in light grey great coats, decorated with red or green worsted -epaulettes, belts outside, without any breastplates, with short -sleeves, slashed at the cuff, to enable them to handle their arms, -and prime and load with facility. Their flints were excellent, but -the powder of their cartridges coarse; that of the British army was -remarkably fine, but their flints were indifferent. - -During this day the rain had held up for eight hours, but after dark -it again fell heavily. Beef was served out, without biscuit; our -cooking was speedily made, as we toasted it on ramrods. After another -wretched night, about two hours before daybreak, the soldiers began to -clean their arms, by the light of the fires, to prepare for the coming -morning. Day broke, but the enemy made no attempt to molest us, and -for two tedious hours we continued without any order to move, owing to -a stream, four hundred yards, behind us, which had detained the other -division some hours in crossing it. As we moved off, the dead and the -dying lay under the trees, (the trunks of many of them in flames,) pale -and shivering, with their bloody congealed bandages, imploring us not -to leave them in that horrible situation, in the middle of the forest -in the depth of winter. However, to attempt to afford them assistance -was impossible. Every individual had enough to do to drag himself -along, after three days' privation. The stream we had to cross was only -a few yards wide, but so deep that the soldiers were forced to cross it -by single files over a tree, which had been felled and thrown across; -had the enemy been aware of such an obstacle, we should have had a -terrible struggle at this point; but the French army had suffered so -much during the pursuit that they could no longer follow, and became -glad of a halt; and we equally glad to get rid of such disagreeable -neighbours. Numerous soldiers from the other divisions of the army, -(which retired in three columns,) fell out, and kept up a heavy firing, -right and left, in the wood at wild pigs, or any other animal they -could see. Many hundreds of these exhausted men fell into the hands of -the enemy, and when they arrived at Salamanca, _El Rey Joseph_ gave the -English prisoners a _pecéta_ each. - -During this day's march the weather was fine, but the road was -overflowed, and up to the men's knees for many miles. Two hours after -dark we drew up on a bare hill, clear of the forest; the atmosphere -became frosty, but there was scarcely any wood to be obtained, and we -spent another shivering night (without rations), gazing at the starry -heavens, and counting the dreary hours. - -Early on the 19th we moved off. The twentieth Portuguese regiment, -eight hundred strong, which had come from the south with Col. Skerret, -and had been attached to our division the morning we left Madrid, could -only now muster half that number of men in the ranks, owing to the cold -and not being accustomed to campaigning; and they were obliged to fall -out of the column of march to halt for their stragglers. The light -division still continued in wonderfully good order, and reached Rodrigo -on that day, and bivouacked a mile from the walls of the town, without -suffering scarcely any loss, except from the enemy's balls the day -they were engaged. - -Six divisions of the army entered Portugal for winter cantonments; the -second division crossed the Sierra de Gata, and took up its quarters -in the vicinity of Coria, in Spanish Estremadura, and the light -division remained near Rodrigo, on the left bank of the Agueda; the -head-quarters of the first brigade being at Gallegos, and those of the -second brigade at Fuente de Guinaldo. - -The Marquis of Wellington established his head-quarters at Frenada, in -Portugal, as usual. There Señor Fuentes, a good-looking Spaniard, used -to play on the guitar, and sing romances. One air in particular I well -remember hearing him sing at a dinner party at Gallegos; it was also -sung by the Spanish _muchachas_ in all the _puéblos_ and hamlets, soon -after the Duke of Ragusa's defeat at Salamanca. The conclusion of each -stanza was as follows:— - - Adónde vayas Marmont? Adónde vayas Marmont, - Tan tempráno de a mañana? Si te cogé Vellington; - Ah! Marmont, Marmont, Marmont! - -[Footnote 43: On the right as we were retiring, but, when we faced -about, on the left flank, _à la militaire_.] - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - - The light division reviewed by the Commander-in-chief—Reinforcements - from England—The army again in motion—Encampment of the light - division between Rodrigo and Salamanca—The German hussars—March - to Salamanca, the French retreating—Scene in the Cathedral at - Salamanca—Crossing the Tormes, and progress of the march—Passage - of the Esla—Affair at Toro with the French heavy - horse—Concentration of the whole army, and march through Valencia - towards Burgos—An accommodating priest—Capture of French baggage - and prisoners—Details of the battle of Vittoria. - - -Early in May, 1813, the light division, commanded by Major-Gen. Baron -C. Alten, formed line in the plain, near Gallegos, with one regiment of -the German hussars, and a brigade of horse artillery, for the purpose -of passing in review before the Marquis of Wellington, who appeared on -the ground encircled by a numerous and brilliant staff. - -During the winter we had remained cantoned by regiments on the Spanish -frontier, on the left of the Agueda, in the different villages, -during which period we, us well as the whole army, had received -various reinforcements from England, the greater proportion of whom -had continued in their quarters in Portugal, and near Coria, in -Estremadura. The 10th, 15th, and 18th hussars had recently landed at -Lisbon, and also the household brigade, consisting of two regiments of -Life Guards and the Royal Horse Guards. Every effort had been made by -the General-in-chief to make the infantry as effective as possible, and -the great depôt was removed from _Belem_ to _Santarem_. Previously to -our advance, the great coats belonging to the soldiers were delivered -into store, it being considered that the blanket was a sufficient -covering for them at night, the more particularly as tents were served -out for the use of the whole army, in the proportion of three to -each company, to be carried by the mules that had formerly conveyed -the iron camp-kettles for cooking;[44] instead of which a light tin -kettle, between every six men, was substituted, to be strapped on -their knapsacks, and carried alternately on the march. Each man was -provided with a reasonable supply of necessaries, including three pairs -of shoes, and an extra pair of soles and heels, in his knapsack. The -daily allowance of rations for soldiers and officers consisted of one -pound of beef, one of biscuit, and a small allowance of rum or wine; -the former was invariably preferred by the old soldiers, although -frequently much adulterated by the mischievous _capitras_.[45] - -The left of the army being already in motion from the interior of -Portugal, the second and light divisions concentrated on the 20th of -May; the former crossed the Sierra de Gata, near Baños, the following -morning, which brought it in communication with our right; our -division forded to the right bank of the Agueda the same day, and -encamped on the skirts of the extensive forest situated between Rodrigo -and Salamanca. The German hussars rode up, smoking their pipes, and -singing some delightful airs, their half squadrons at intervals joining -in chorus. We had heard that the hussar brigade was to supersede these -veterans, and to act with our division: the whole of us left our -canvas, and lined the road to greet our old friends and companions of -out-post duty. The hussars became so much affected by our cheering, -that tears rolled down many of their bronzed faces. "Oh!" said they, -"we are always glad to see the old _lighty division_, who will ever -live in our hearts." - -On the third day we had arrived near San Muñoz, and encamped on the -river Helebra. Many of the forest trees were covered with beautiful -blossoms, and the plumaged tribe hopped from branch to bough, while -here and there a solitary skeleton lay bleached, and reminded us -of those starved, drenched, and wounded victims, the recollection -of whose cries for help still rang in our ears, as we had marched -past them on our retreat from Burgos and Madrid the previous winter. -Now, how changed the scene! the inmost recesses of this extensive -wood resounded with many voices, and a long line of animated troops -continued to thread its mazes and winding roads. On this day the -household brigade of cavalry came up; their horses' backs were in a -very bad state, owing to the heat of the weather. In the evening, while -sitting at our tent-door, we observed one of the Germans making up his -fat horse for the night, and afterwards employing himself in sharpening -his sabre with a stone. "That man," remarked an officer, "seems to be -preparing for single combat." - -Early on the 26th we halted on the verge of the wood, within a short -distance of Salamanca; our cavalry and some guns pushed onwards, -and crossed to the right bank of the Tormes by two fords above the -town, where they found three thousand French infantry preparing to -retrograde. Our cavalry made a demonstration to charge them, but the -enemy presented so firm a front, and then retired in such good order, -that it was thought advisable not to attempt to break them, until a -few discharges of artillery should have shaken the resolution of these -veterans: which that course failed to accomplish. They at length formed -a junction with a part of the French troops retiring from Alba de -Tormes. - -Our dragoons were then drawn off, and the enemy continued to retreat -without farther molestation. In the afternoon our division moved -forward, and took up their ground in a wood immediately overlooking the -left bank of the Tonnes, a league below Salamanca. - -The next morning, as there had not been any order for the troops to -move, I mounted my horse, and, in company with some other officers, -rode into Salamanca. The inhabitants expressed their congratulations on -seeing us again, although our reception was not of that warm character -shown towards us in the preceding summer; and, indeed, it would have -been out of all reason to expect to find countenances decked with joy, -when contending armies had trampled down and destroyed their corn over -a fertile plain of many leagues in extent. - -On entering the great square, we observed the principal inhabitants, -full-dressed, flocking towards the cathedral, a very handsome stone -structure, where we alighted, and, following the crowd through the -grand entrance, found a great multitude waiting the arrival of the -Marquis of Wellington, who soon entered, escorted by a numerous -retinue of Spanish generals and other staff officers, in a variety -of uniforms magnificently embroidered. I was much struck with the -simplicity of the Marquis of Wellington's attire, who wore a very -light grey pelisse coat, single-breasted, without a sash, and a white -neck-handkerchief, with his sword buckled round his waist, underneath -the coat, the hilt merely protruding, and a cocked-hat under his arm. -He stood with his face towards the altar during the prayer offered up -for the success of our arms in the approaching struggle, (for during -this time the divisions of our centre were branching off and marching -over dusty plains towards Miranda de Douro, to support the extreme -left, under General Sir T. Graham, which had crossed to the right bank -of the Douro, east of Lamego, had passed through the defiles of Tras -os Montes, and was marching on the right of that river through Leon, -towards Carvajales and Tabara, to outflank the enemy;) the deep-toned -organ played some fine pieces during the ceremony; and at the -conclusion, the ladies, by way of a benediction, dipped their delicate -fingers into a marble basin at the door, _and sprinkled us with holy -water_. - -At daylight on the 28th, we forded the Tormes, and continued a forward -movement along a winding road, through a rich valley compassing the -base of a hill, on the summit of which stood a number of videttes -belonging to the household brigade; and although the men and horses -looked gigantic, and bore a fine appearance, still the idea of out-post -duty for the heavy cavalry caused much merriment in the ranks. At -the expiration of a long march, we encamped in the vicinity of Aldea -de Figueras, on the high road to Toro, where we halted four days; the -second division, under General Hill, besides Portuguese and Spanish -auxiliaries, were encamped half a league to our right, for the purpose -of keeping in check and watching the movements of the enemy stationed -on the right of the Douro, and also at Polios and Ruêda, situated about -two leagues from Tor-de-Sillas, on the left bank of the river, where -the French still remained in some force, hovering on our right flank. -Under all these circumstances, it became necessary to be vigilant, -as the left and centre of the army were now moving to pass the river -Esla, under the immediate orders of the General-in-chief, who had left -Salamanca to join them, and to superintend this delicate movement in -person, which he had caused to be executed for the purpose of turning -the enemy's right, and to threaten his northern line of communications. - -Owing to this manœuvre, the French army was thrown on two sides of a -square, and only possessed the chance of extending a line on the Esla, -by throwing their left forward against General Hill at the moment -when he was separated from the bulk of our army; (thereby making -Madrid the base of their operations). However, _El Rey Joseph_ had -not concentrated his army, and showed no inclination to keep open his -communication with that capital; and therefore he gave up the line of -the Esla and the Douro without a blow. - -The passage of the Esla having been effected on the 31st, without -opposition, the Marquis of Wellington moved on Toro, where he arrived -on the 2nd of June, and the hussar brigade fell in with a strong body -of the enemy's heavy horse between that town and Morales, where they -overthrew the French, after a very vigorous charge, and made upwards -of two hundred prisoners. Our division on this day made a forced -march over a bare country, halted to cook during the heat of the day, -then resumed its movement, and reached the vicinity of Toro in the -evening, where we encamped among some luxuriant, well-watered vegetable -gardens on the left bank of the Douro, the sight of which proved very -refreshing after a long, sultry, and weary march; and it was most -gratifying to observe with what zest and relish the officers and -soldiers devoured the raw cabbages, onions, and melons. - -The next morning our division crossed the fine stone bridge. The centre -arch of it had been blown up and entirely destroyed. The soldiers, -therefore, in the first instance, descended by ladders placed close -together, communicating by planks thrown across to the steps of the -opposite ladders, by which the men again ascended, thereby surmounting -the obstacle with little difficulty, and then marching through Toro, -which is situated on high ground on the right bank of the river, and -commands a fine prospect for some leagues over the surrounding country. - -The artillery and baggage forded one hundred yards above the bridge, -without difficulty; the water being only knee-deep at this season of -the year. We encamped half a league from the town. In the afternoon -I walked in to see the prisoners who had been taken by the English -hussars on the previous day, all of whom bore a very martial -appearance, and many of their countenances were so covered with hair, -that it was difficult to distinguish their features: one man, in -particular, had a long red beard which reached down to his middle; he -wore a brass helmet, surmounted with tiger's skin, with a bunch of -horse hair hanging down his back from the casque. One hundred of these -French dragoons, who had not been wounded, were assembled to march -to the rear. Their officer maintained a profound silence, and looked -angry and highly indignant, with a large stick over his shoulder, -stuck through the middle of a four-pound Spanish loaf. The whole of -the captured, raw-boned horses, were huddled together in a court-yard, -and bore evident marks of bad provender, escort duties, marches, and -countermarches; and nearly the whole of them had the most horrible sore -backs, almost frying in the sun, while innumerable flies settled on and -irritated the poor animals. A number of English medical officers were -busily employed dressing the wounds of the French cavalry; some of them -were of a most shocking description, from sabre cuts on their heads and -faces. A Frenchman, of enormous stature, lay extended with a dreadful -thrust from a pike, which had been inflicted by a cruel Guerilla, some -hours after he had surrendered himself a prisoner. A medical officer -was on his knees trying to bleed him, and held his wrist, moving his -arm gently, having made an incision in hopes of causing the blood to -flow; but every effort to save his life was useless; the dying soldier -nodded thanks to the doctor, and soon after expired. - -On the 4th, the whole army being concentrated[46], it moved in three -columns, the centre in the direction of Palencia. The country was -beautifully diversified, studded with castles of Moorish architecture, -realizing the descriptions given in the chivalric days of Ferdinand -and Isabella. The sun shone brilliantly, the sky was of heavenly blue, -and clouds of dust marked the line of march of glittering columns. -The joyous peasantry hailed our approach, and came dancing towards -us, singing and beating time on their small tambourines; and, when we -were passing through the principal street of Palencia, the nuns, from -the upper windows of a convent, showered down rose-leaves on our dusty -heads, and the inhabitants declared, by way of compliment, that the -Oxford Blues were nearly as fine as the Spanish royal horse guards. Our -division took up their ground close to the town, and on the exact spot -where the French had bivouacked the same morning. - -Continuing our advance towards Burgos on the 12th, the right of our -army made a demonstration to attack the enemy, who had taken post -there, while our division brought up its left shoulder, and hovered, -with the hussar-brigade, on their right flank; the left of our army -halted, until the effect of this movement was ascertained, by which -the enemy were again thrown on two sides of a square. The day was -remarkably cold and cloudy. - -Towards morning on the 13th, we heard a great noise, which we -considered distant thunder, but it was soon known that the enemy had -blown up part of the works of the Castle of Burgos, and had retreated. -The left of our army was now pushed on in echelon, to turn by a flank -movement the line of the Ebro, while our right and centre hung on the -enemy's rear, ready to engage them in support of this movement. The -country here was extremely wild and mountainous[47]. - -On the 15th we descended by a narrow pass, about a league in extent, -which had the appearance of being scarped; the road was extremely -rugged, and, winding suddenly, we found ourselves in the valley of the -Ebro, which extended some distance to our right. The beauty of the -scenery was far beyond description, and the rocks rose perpendicularly -on every side, without any visible opening to convey an idea of any -outlet. This enchanting valley is studded with picturesque hamlets, -orchards of cherry trees, and fruitful gardens, producing every -description of vegetation. We crossed the river by the Puente Arenas, -where we saw a number of sturdy, thick-legged women, loaded with fresh -butter, from the mountains of the Asturias. I had not tasted that -commodity for more than two years, therefore it will be unnecessary to -describe how readily I made a purchase, and carried the treasure in -front of my saddle, until we had encamped; but, as ill luck would have -it, there was not any biscuit served out on that day. - -The next morning we ascended by a most romantic winding road for a -league, and obtained a view of the tents of the fifth division, who -had made a _détour_ to outflank the enemy, and to secure the passage -of these narrow defiles. While passing a village, I asked several of -the inhabitants to sell me some bread; a shake of the head was the only -answer returned. I at last caught a glimpse of a priest, and, as I was -determined to have bread to eat with the fresh butter, I made towards -him, saluted him by a most gracious bend, pulled out a _pecéta_, -and requested he would procure me a loaf; he very good-naturedly -acquiesced, and soon again made his appearance with a three-pounder, -and also returned half my money: he seemed pleased, so was I, and, -more courteous salutes having been exchanged between us, I rejoined -the ranks. Travelling onwards, we perceived a large building on the -side of a hill, with something white waving at each window, which, on a -nearer view, we perceived to be a convent, and the nuns shaking their -white handkerchiefs to greet our approach. On taking up our ground for -the day, the baggage made its appearance, and ample justice was done to -the bread and butter by myself and companions. - -On the 18th, while we were advancing left in front, along a narrow -road, shrouded by overhanging woods and high mountains, a hussar -informed us that the enemy were at hand. On reaching a more open space, -we observed a brigade of the French drawn up behind a rivulet, and -their front covered by a few houses. Two battalions of the rifle corps, -supported by the 52nd, instantly attacked them, and, after some smart -firing, the enemy gave ground. During this skirmish our regiment turned -off the road to the left, and formed line on a hill, as a rallying -point, in case of need; when, to our astonishment, we observed the -head of another column of the French issuing, by a road parallel to -us, out of an opening between two perpendicular rocks, and in rear of -our second brigade, already engaged. The other regiments composing -our brigade scrambled over the rocks, to endeavour to attack their -left, which the enemy perceiving, turned off the road, and made for a -hill: the 52nd brought up its left shoulder, and actually formed line -facing to the rear, at a run, and encountered the enemy on the crest of -the hill, who, the moment they met that regiment, turned round, and, -throwing off their packs, fled to the mountains, keeping up a running -fight. The second brigade was now engaged front and rear. - -During this desultory _fusillade_, the baggage belonging to the French -division debouched from the already described outlet. The whole of the -enemy's escort huddled together, and made a most desperate resistance -amidst the rocks, while their affrighted animals ran loose, and were -seen on the highest pinnacles of precipices. Nearly the whole fell into -our hands, besides three hundred wounded and prisoners. The position of -the division became singular after the fight, with its centre at the -village St. Millan, and keeping a look-out to the front and rear. The -enemy had also attacked the left of our army, near Osma, in hopes that, -by causing such a delay, it would enable these two brigades, marching -from Frias, to form a junction with their main body. - -On the 19th we moved forward, and, at about ten o'clock in the morning, -part of the fourth division became engaged with the light troops of -the enemy. Our division then made a short _détour_, and turned the -left of the French, who precipitately retired towards Vittoria. The -next day we halted, and the army took up a line on the river Bayas, -after long and arduous marching. The Marquis of Wellington approached -the river Zadorra, which covered the enemy's position, for the purpose -of examining the ground they occupied, and pointing out to different -generals the various debouches, and their necessary line of attack, in -the event of the French continuing to occupy the same ground on the -following day. - -On the 21st, we stood to our arms, and moved forward in darkness, some -time before daybreak. A heavy shower of rain fell; but, as morning -dawned, the clouds dispersed, and the sun arose with fiery splendour. -A towering and steep ridge of mountains rose abruptly from the valley -on our right, which the Spaniards climbed early in the morning, at -first unopposed; the ascent was so steep, that, while moving up it, -they looked as if they were lying on their faces, or crawling. They -were supported, and soon followed across the river Zadorra, and through -the town of Puebla de Arlanzon, by part of the second division, for -the purpose of attacking the left of the enemy, who were posted on -the heights above Puebla de Arlanzon and Sabijana de Alava, where the -contest, at the former place, began at nine o'clock, amongst deep -ravines, rocks and precipices. The second division becoming heavily -engaged with the enemy, under all these disadvantages it could only -maintain the ground already won, and the firing seemed to die away -in that quarter. Our right centre, composed of the light and fourth -divisions, continued to advance, as also the great bulk of our cavalry. - -At about ten o'clock, on ascending a rising ground, we observed the -French army drawn out in order of battle, in two lines, their right -centre resting on a round hill, their left centre occupying a gentle -ascent, and their left hid from view on the heights of Puebla; the -river Zadorra ran at the foot of this formidable position, and then -took a sudden turn, embracing and running parallel to their right -flank, towards Vittoria. - -_El Rey Joseph_, surrounded by a numerous staff, was stationary on -the hill, overlooking his own right and centre. The French army was -unmasked, without a bush to prevent the sweeping of their artillery, -the charging of their cavalry, or the fire of their musketry from -acting with full effect on those who should attempt to pass the bridges -in their front, and which it was absolutely necessary to carry before -we could begin the action in the centre. When within a short distance -of the river, five of the French light horse advanced on the main road -to look out, and were overtaken by an equal number of our dragoons, -when they wheeled about and attempted to make off, without effect; -they were assailed on the near side, when three instantly fell from -their saddles, covered with sabre wounds, and their affrighted horses -galloped at random. - -The light division left the road when within one mile of the river, and -drew up in contiguous close columns behind some shelving rocks near -Olabarre, with the hussar brigade dismounted on the left; the fourth -division made a corresponding movement, by branching off to the right, -and took post opposite their intended point of attack; the greater -part of our heavy cavalry and dragoons remained in reserve, to succour -the central divisions, in case the enemy should advance before the -third and seventh divisions should have taken up their ground on the -enemy's right flank. The first and fifth divisions, with two brigades -of Portuguese, a Spanish division, and two brigades of dragoons, -were making a _détour_ from Murguia, to place themselves on the line -of the enemy's retreat, towards St. Sebastian; the sixth division -remained some leagues in the rear of our army to guard the stores at -Medina. Gen. Clausel's division was manœuvring on our right, but not -sufficiently near on this day to give much cause of apprehension. - -All the movements of our army required the nicest calculations, both -for the attack and defence; for at this time the four great columns -advancing were separated by difficult rocks and a rugged country, -interspersed with deep gulleys, narrow roads, and scattered hamlets. -The enemy were again under the painful necessity, for the third time in -one month, of manœuvring on two sides of a square; and the first cannon -fired by General Graham, at Abechucho and Gamarra Major,[48] must have -been to Joseph and Marshal Jourdan, (his Major-General,) like a shock -of electricity: all in an instant was riot and confusion in Vittoria; -the baggage stuck fast, blocking up all the roads, and even the fields. - -At half-past eleven o'clock the Marquis of Wellington led the way -by a hollow road, followed by the light division, which he placed -unobserved amongst some trees, exactly opposite the enemy's right -centre, and within two hundred yards of the bridge of Villoses, which -we understood was to be carried at the point of the bayonet. I felt -anxious to obtain a view, and, leisurely walking between the trees, I -found myself at the edge of the wood, and within a very short distance -of the enemy's cannon, planted with lighted matches ready to apply to -them. Had the attack begun here, the French never could have stood to -their guns so near the thicket; or at least the riflemen would have -annihilated them. The General-in-chief was now most anxiously looking -out for the third and seventh divisions to make their appearance. We -had remained some time in the wood, when a Spanish peasant told the -Marquis of Wellington that the enemy had left one of the bridges across -the Zadorra unprotected, and offered his services to lead us over it. -Our right brigade instantly moved to its left _by threes_, at a rapid -pace, along a very uneven and circuitous path, (which was concealed -from the observation of the French by high rocks,) and reached the -narrow bridge which crossed the river to Yruna. The 1st rifles led the -way, and the whole brigade following, passed at a run, with firelocks -and rifles ready cocked, and ascended a steep road of fifty yards, at -the top of which was an old chapel, which we had no sooner cleared, -than we observed a heavy column of French on the principal hill, and -commanding a bird's-eye view of us. However, fortunately, a convex -bank formed a sort of _tête de pont_, behind which the regiments -formed at full speed, without any word of command. Two round shots -came amongst us; the second severed the head from the body of our -bold guide, the Spanish peasant. The soldiers were so well concealed, -that the enemy ceased firing. Our post was most extraordinary, as we -were at the elbow of the French position, and isolated from the rest -of the army, within one hundred yards of the enemy's advance, and -absolutely occupying part of their position on the left of the river, -without any attempt being made by them to dislodge us; scarcely the -sound of a shot, from any direction, struck on the ear, and we were in -momentary expectation of being immolated; and, as I looked over the -bank, I could see _El Rey Joseph_, surrounded by at least five thousand -men, within eight hundred yards of us. The reason he did not attack -is inexplicable, and, I think, cannot be accounted for by the most -ingenious narrator. - -Gen. Sir James Kempt expressed much wonder at our critical position, -and our not being molested, and sent his aide-de-camp at speed across -the river for the 15th Hussars, who came forward singly, and at a -gallop, up the steep path, and dismounted in rear of our centre. The -French dragoons coolly, and at a very slow pace, came within fifty -yards to examine, if possible, the strength of our force, when a few -shots from the rifles induced them to decamp. I observed three bridges, -within a quarter of a mile of each other, at the elbow of the enemy's -position. We had crossed the centre one, while the other two, right and -left, where still occupied by the French artillery; at the latter, the -enemy had thrown up an earth entrenchment. - -We continued in this awkward state of suspense for half an hour, when -we observed the centre of the enemy drawing off by degrees towards -Vittoria, and also the head of the third division rapidly debouching -from some rocks on our left near the hamlet of Mendoza, when the -battery at Tres Puentes opened upon them, which was answered by two -guns from the horse artillery on the right of the river. Some companies -of the rifle corps sprang from the ground, where they lay concealed, -and darted forward, opening a galling fire on the left flank of the -enemy's gunners, at great risk to themselves of being driven into the -water, as the river ran on their immediate left, while the French -cavalry hovered on their right; however, so well did this gallant band -apply their loose balls, that the enemy limbered up their guns, and -hastily retired; and the third division, at a run, crossed the bridge -of Tres Puentes, cheering, but unopposed.[49] - -The enemy withdrew the artillery from the bridges in their centre at -two o'clock, P. M., and were forming across the high road to Vittoria. -The third division had no sooner closed up in contiguous columns, than -General Picton led them forward in very handsome style, in column, -by a flank movement, so as to place them exactly opposite the French -centre. The fourth division directly after crossed the river by the -bridge of Nanclara, and were hurrying forward to support the right -flank of the third division; the seventh division also crossed the -bridge of Tres Puentes, supported by the second brigade of the light -division, and faced the small village of Marganta. Our heavy horse and -dragoons had deployed into line, on the other side of the river, so as -to communicate with the rear of the second division, (in the event of -their being driven back from the mountains,) or to support the centre -of the army, in case of any disaster. They made a brilliant display of -golden helmets and sparkling swords, glittering in the rays of the sun. - -Three divisions being in motion, the centre and left supported by the -light division and the hussar brigade, the battle began by a terrible -discharge on the third division, while they were deploying into line. -We closed up to them, behind a bank; when, with loud huzzas, they -rushed from behind it, into the village of Ariyez, with fixed bayonets, -amidst flashing small arms and rolling artillery, and, after a bloody -struggle, carried it. The enemy's artillery was within two hundred -yards of us, ploughing up the ground in our rear: fortunately, the -bank nearly covered us, during the time it was necessary to remain -inactive, to support the front attack, if needful. A Portuguese -regiment, attached to our brigade, had been detached for a short time, -and rejoined in close column; but, just before they reached the cover, -some round shot tore open their centre, and knocked over many men; and -such was the alarm of a Portuguese officer, at the whizzing of balls -and bursting of field shells, that he fell into an officer's arms, -weeping bitterly. For ten minutes at this point, what with dust and -smoke, it was impossible to distinguish any objects in front, save the -shadows of the French artillerymen serving the guns, and the shouts -of troops while forcing their way into the village. The smoke had -no sooner cleared away, than we came on the bodies of many dead and -gasping soldiers, stretched in the dust. The sharp fire of musketry -and artillery in the centre, announced it to be the point of contest. -The "advance" of the second division had been severely handled on the -mountains to our right, but they were now getting on as speedily as the -nature of the ground would admit, it being composed of deep ravines, -and such natural obstacles, as almost to delay their progress unopposed. - -The first and fifth divisions were engaged at Gamarra Major and -Abechucho, in front of the bridges over the Zadorra. These villages -were carried after a smart action, by which a position was gained -threatening the enemy's line of retreat by the high road to France, -running N.E. some distance close on the left of the river. The bridge -was attempted, but was found to be impracticable, until our centre had -forced the enemy to give up Vittoria. The different divisions in the -centre were exposed to a desultory fire, while passing the villages -of Gomecha and Luazu de Alava, and over broken ground, forming lines, -columns, or threading the windings of difficult paths, according to -the nature of the country, or the opposition of the enemy. The fourth -division pushed back the left centre of the French, and were fighting -successfully, and performing prodigies of valour, among crags and -broken ground. The seventh division now came in contact with the -enemy's right centre, which resisted so desperately, and galled them -from a wood and the windows of houses with such showers of bullets, -that victory for a short time was doubtful; however, the second brigade -of the light division coming up fresh and with closed ranks, assisted -by the seventh division, broke through all opposition at a run, and -routed the enemy at the point of the bayonet. The four divisions of the -centre continued to gain ground, shooting forward alternately, leaving -the killed and wounded scattered over a great extent of country. At six -o'clock in the evening, by a sort of running fight, with hard contests -at certain points, the centre of the army had gained five miles in -this amphitheatre; for General Hill's corps was on the mountains, and -General Graham was still on the right of the Zadorra. - -The Marquis of Wellington was in the middle of the battle, vigorously -driving the enemy, to finish that which the wings had so well begun. -First, General Hill's movement in the morning had caused the enemy to -weaken his left centre; then General Graham's attack induced him to -give up the front line of the Zadorra, without a shot (hardly) being -fired. - -At half-past six we were within one mile of the city of Vittoria, the -capital of Alava, situated in a fruitful valley; but the French army -now drew up, and showed such an imposing array in front of the town, -that our left centre facing _Ali_ was completely kept at bay, owing to -the blazing of one hundred pieces of cannon vomiting forth death and -destruction to all who advanced against them. This roaring of artillery -continued for more than an hour on both sides, with unabated vigour: -the smoke rolled up in such clouds, that we could no longer distinguish -the white town of Vittoria; the liquid fire marked the activity of the -French gunners. During this momentous struggle, the left centre of -the French covered a bare hill, and continued for a considerable time -immoveable; while, pouring their musketry into the now-thinned ranks -of the third division, it was doubtful whether the latter would be -able to keep their ground, under such a deadly fire from very superior -numbers: however, they maintained this dangerous post with heroic -firmness, having led the van throughout the thick of the battle. - -At this period of the action, it was absolutely necessary to strain -every nerve to win it before nightfall. The fourth division, on our -right, shot forward against a sugar-loaf hill, and broke a French -division, who retired up it in a confused mass, firing over each -other's heads, without danger to themselves, owing to the steepness of -its ascent. I was laughing at this novel method of throwing bullets, -when one struck me on the sash, and fell at my feet, thereby cooling -my ardour for a short time: however, when a little recovered from the -pain, I picked it up, and put the precious bit of lead into my pocket. - -The scene that now presented itself was magnificently grand: the -valley resounded with confused sounds like those of a volcanic -eruption, and was crowded with red bodies of infantry and the smoking -artillery, while the cavalry eagerly looked for an opening to gallop -into the town. On one side of the field rose majestically the spiral -and purple-capped mountains, rearing their pinnacles on high; on the -other ran the glassy waters of the Zadorra: and the departing sun -threw his last beams to light up the efforts of those struggling in -dangerous strife for the deliverance of Spain. The enemy sacrificed all -their cannon, with the exception of eight pieces, while withdrawing -the right of their army behind the left wing, under cover of this -tremendous cannonade, which was the only chance yet left them to quit -the field in a compact body. This movement being executed in strange -confusion in and about Vittoria, their left wing retired by echelon of -divisions and brigades from the right, while delivering their fire; -and finally, their last division quitted the field with nearly empty -cartridge-boxes, and taking the road towards Pampeluna. The greater -portion of our army then brought up its left shoulder, or rather -wheeled the quarter circle to its right; which movement brought us on -the road to Pampeluna. The French managed to drag the eight pieces -of artillery across the fields for nearly a league; but, coming to -marshy ground, they stuck fast, and three of them rolled into a ditch, -with mules struggling to disentangle themselves from their harness. -Two pieces the enemy carried clear out of the action, leaving their -numerous cannon behind them, owing to the roads being so blocked up -with waggons. - -The dark shades of evening had already veiled the distant objects from -our view, and nothing of the battle remained, save the lightning -flashes of the enemy's small arms on our cavalry, who continued to -hover and threaten their rear guard. The road to Pampeluna was choked -up with many carriages, filled with imploring ladies, waggons loaded -with specie,[50] powder and ball, and wounded soldiers, intermixed with -droves of oxen, sheep, goats, mules, asses, _filles de chambre_, and -officers. In fact, such a jumble surely never was witnessed before; it -seemed as if all the domestic animals in the world had been brought to -this spot, with all the utensils of husbandry, and all the finery of -palaces, mixed up in one heterogeneous mass. - -Our brigade marched past this strange scene (I may well assert) of -domestic strife, in close column, nor did I see a soldier attempt to -quit the ranks, or show the most distant wish to do so; our second -brigade had not yet joined us, when we bivouacked a league from -Vittoria, on the road towards Pampeluna. The half-famished soldiers had -no sooner disencumbered themselves of their knapsacks, than they went -to forage; for even here the sheep and goats were running about in all -directions, and large bags of flour lay by the side of the road: in -fact, for miles round the town, the great wreck of military stores was -scattered in every direction. - -Night put an end to the contest: the growling of artillery ceased, -the enemy were flying in disorder, the British army bivouacked round -Vittoria, large fires were kindled and blazed up, and illumined the -country, over which were strewed the dead and suffering officers and -soldiers: strange sounds continued throughout the night, and passing -lights might be seen on the highest mountains and distant valleys. - -[Footnote 44: The iron kettles were very heavy, and were carried on -the backs of mules, one of which was attached to each company; but, -when near the enemy, and the baggage had been sent to the rear, these -unwieldy and capacious kettles were not at all times to be laid hold -of. Besides, it occupied the soldiers a considerable time to cook their -rations, particularly in the extensive plains, where only stubble -could be procured; and also during the rainy season, when the forest -trees were damp. I have often observed these ponderous kettles turned -bottom upwards, (at a time when there happened to be a scarcity of -provisions,) and encircled by ten or twelve weather-beaten soldiers, -who, with empty stomachs, stepped forward, one at a time, and each -of them in turn rubbing his blacking-brush on the sooty part of the -kettle, blacked his dusty shoes, cap-peak, canteen strap, and knapsack.] - -[Footnote 45: A muleteer, so called from having the charge of five -mules, for the use of which he received five dollars daily, and one -for himself. The biscuit, rum, and reserve ball-cartridge, were -carried by the mules;—under charge of the above men the lean Barbary -bulls and bullocks followed the different divisions on their line of -march—the whole originally provided by, and under the superintendence -of commissaries.] - -[Footnote 46: The British army was composed of eight divisions of -infantry, as usual. The first, of two brigades of Guards, with two of -the King's German Legion; the second, three brigades of British, and -three of Portuguese; the third, two of British, and one of Portuguese; -the fourth, fifth, sixth, and seventh, the same; the light division -of two brigades. Total, seventeen brigades of British infantry, two -of Germans, ten of Portuguese; besides other detachments. The cavalry -consisted of four brigades of Heavy, and four of Light Dragoons, and -two of Portuguese.] - -[Footnote 47: The enemy left in the Castle of Pancorbo, (which commands -the narrow and tremendous pass through which the high road runs towards -Miranda,) a small garrison, who soon afterwards surrendered themselves -prisoners to the Spaniards.] - -[Footnote 48: We could not see the extreme right of the enemy, -stationed near Arunnez, in front of Abechucho and Gamarra Major.] - -[Footnote 49: The French did not defend any of the seven bridges -across the Zadorra, except the two lying north and N.E. near Vittoria, -although it was their original intention to do so. The able manœuvres -of the General-in-chief threw the French generals into doubt: they -knew not whether to defend their left, their right, or their centre; -so they gave up one after the other, in conformity with the threatened -attacks of the Marquis of Wellington—which was exactly what he wished, -and most accommodating of his opponents, who thus left this intended -great battle without beginning or without end; for the French infantry -were not half beaten, before disjointed orders and crowds of baggage -blocking up the different roads, completed their confusion past all -remedy.] - -[Footnote 50: Some excesses were committed, although the greater part -of the booty, as usual, was bagged by the followers of the army.] - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - - Pursuit of the enemy after the battle of Vittoria—Curious - spectacle and adventure in a French bivouac—Advance towards - Pampeluna, and repulse of the French rear-guard—Retreat of the - main body of the enemy into France—Reflections on the policy - of King Joseph—Change of the British route, and encampment - at Sanguessa—A casual dance—Return to Pampeluna—Expulsion - of the French from the valley of Bastan—The Basque - peasantry—Town of Bera—Position for covering Pampeluna and St. - Sebastian—Preparations for the attack of the latter place—The - command of the French assumed by the Duke of Dalmatia—A family - scene—Position of the French army. - - -On the morning of the 22d the atmosphere was overcast, and, being -without either cloaks or blankets to cover us, our uniforms were -very damp, owing to the heavy dew which had fallen during the night; -notwithstanding this, we arose from the ground exceedingly refreshed, -and gazed around, in mute amazement, at the prodigious wreck of -plundered Spain; for, beneath the French caissons, tumbrils, and brass -cannon, lay scattered _los doblones de oro, of the same virgin gold_ -which had been extracted in former times from the peaceful Incas -of the new world, by those vindictive Spanish adventurers, whose -avaricious veins boiled at that epoch with the hot blood of the Moors. - -At nine o'clock the rolling of the tenor and bass drums, and the clank -of cymbals, beating the marching time, announced that the leading -regiments of the division were in motion for the purpose of following -the enemy. During the rest of the day we marched through a valley, -enclosed by highlands, but did not overtake the enemy; the corn was -trampled down in many places, which showed they had moved in three -columns, whenever the ground would admit of it. Soon after dark, the -division bivouacked in a wood, a drizzling rain began to fall, and -we laid down under a tree to enjoy a nap, until the arrival of our -sumpter mules, heavily laden with flour and live stock, which we had -industriously scraped together from the refuse of Vittoria's field. -At midnight we were awakened, with keen appetites, by the well-known -neighing of the horses, and braying of donkeys; but none of the baggage -animals came our way, and during our anxious and broken slumbers the -night passed away, and the morning was ushered in by a sweeping rain, -which thoroughly saturated the troops before they began their march. -As I chanced to be for the duty of bringing up any stragglers who -might happen to lag behind, and my hungry messmate being also for the -baggage guard (of those who had come up), we journeyed together along -the sloppy road, when the conversation naturally turned on the splendid -victory gained over the French legions two days before, and we remarked -how gladdened the people of England would be on the receipt of such a -piece of glorious intelligence, while they would little imagine that -the greater portion of the victors would willingly lay down half their -laurels for a good breakfast. - -At the close of the evening we came to the remains of a French bivouac, -consisting of doors and window shutters torn from a neighbouring -village by the enemy, and propped up to screen them from the inclemency -of the weather. The sole person to be seen was a draggled-tailed old -woman, with a ragged petticoat, who, without noticing us, or once -raising her eyes, continued to pursue her interesting employment of -stirring up with a stick the mud (which was interspersed with fragments -of books and French novels,) or handling the broken fragments of -earthenware pots. Our curiosity was so much excited, that we reined in -our steeds to watch the progress of the wrinkled and copper-coloured -old dame, who, stretching out her bronzed and shrivelled arm, at last -laid hold of a whole utensil, and as she hastily splashed off, I caught -a glimpse of a chicken, resting on one leg, behind a shutter, which -somehow or other had escaped the ramrod of the enemy, and the hawk-eyed -soldiers of the pursuing column. Unsheathing my sabre, I jumped to the -ground, and sprang forward either to grasp or maim the destined prize; -however, the ground was in such a slimy state, that my speed availed -not; on the contrary it hastened my fall. My companion, disdaining to -take warning at my mishap, must needs himself begin a hot pursuit; -however, the practical experience convinced him of the slippery -obstacles; he soon lay sprawling on his face, plastered with mire: -suffice it, the bird escaped, and we resumed our wet saddles, in a -condition and appearance nowise enviable.—Soon after dark we came to a -river, but as the enemy had not sufficient time to blow up the bridge, -they had set fire to many of the houses in the main street of the town, -(which were still in flames,) in hopes of blocking up the way with the -burning rafters, which they had hurled from the roofs of the houses, in -expectation of preventing our artillery from passing through, and thus -harassing our retreat. The rain still falling in torrents, by degrees -extinguished the red embers of the smoking ruins, and prevented the -place from being entirely consumed to ashes. The soldiers of the -division crowded the houses, and huddled under cover wherever they -could find shelter. We were obliged to content ourselves by squeezing -into a small hovel, where the smoke found egress through the broken -roof; the floor was composed of slabs of rocks, in some places rearing -their primitive heads amid flints and loose stones. During the night -a ration of meat and six ounces of mouldy biscuit were served out, -which was greedily devoured by the victorious troops. It was in vain -that we scraped into a heap the stones of this macadamized lodge, for -the purpose of lying down; for bumps and holes only increased our -difficulties, and we were forced to ascend a broken ladder into a -wretched loft, swarming with vermin, to prick for a soft plank, whereon -to stretch our chilly limbs. - -At dawn, on the 24th, we were again on the road; the weather cleared -up, and the cheerful rays of the sun sparkled in the crystal drops, -which fell on our heads as we glided beneath the wet foliage. Having -advanced a few miles, we found the enemy's rear-guard posted at a bare -and steep pass, which covered the highroad, two leagues from Pampeluna. -The column having closed up, two battalions of the rifle corps -(supported by the horse artillery[51]) pushed forward, and, after a -sharp skirmish, they succeeded in pushing back the French rear-guard; -the guns then galloped up the road, and plied the round shot with -such effect, that they succeeded in dismounting one of the only two -cannon which the enemy had extricated from Vittoria's entangled field. -They had rolled the gun over a steep bank on the right of the paved -causeway, on which were regular league stones, and the first I had -noticed in Spain. One round shot had struck down seven of the enemy on -the left of the road; some of them were dead; others still alive, with -either legs or arms knocked off, or otherwise horribly mutilated, and -were crying out in extreme anguish, and imploring the soldiers to shoot -them, to put an end to their dreadful sufferings. A German hussar, in -our service, assured them that they would be kindly treated by our -medical officers. "No! no!" they vociferated, "we cannot bear to live. -Countryman, we are Germans, pray kill us, and shorten our miseries." - -Continuing onwards, we soon after drew up on the slope of a hill, -within sight of Pampeluna, the capital of Navarre; it is well -fortified, with a strong citadel, and situated near the banks of the -river Arga, in a fertile plain abounding with wheat, the ears of which -we rubbed between our hands to satisfy the cravings of hunger. Just -before our arrival, the enemy's scattered army had clustered beneath -the ramparts of the fortress, where they were in hopes of entering to -obtain rest and provisions; but the place was so scantily supplied, -that the gates were ordered to be barred against all intruders. From -this place an excellent road branches off in a north-westerly direction -to Tolosa; but as General Graham, with his corps, was marching direct -on that town, by the great road to France, it was of no avail to the -main body of the enemy, who were obliged to continue their retreat into -France, by Roncesvalles and other roads, merely leaving a rear-guard in -the valley of Bastan. - -The following morning we filed over a rugged and flinty mountain, -south-west of Pampeluna, from the summit of which we almost commanded -a bird's-eye view into the very heart of the town, garrisoned by four -thousand of the enemy. This place, well provisioned, should have -been fixed on for the grand base of Joseph's defensive and offensive -movements; for, had he made it the pivot of his operations, and opened -his line on Aragon, (and the strong holds in Catalonia, held by the -Duke of Albufera), his flanks would have been secured by the Ebro and -the Pyrenees, and would have thrown our army on two sides of a square, -and entangled it between two strong fortresses, and the labyrinths -of the Pyrenees. Most probably such a movement would have kept the -war from the immediate frontier of France, whence fresh troops, under -favourable circumstances, could debouch and attack our left face. From -political reasons, the time had not arrived for the decided invasion of -that country; besides, if it had, such an invasion could not have been -executed, so long as the enemy hovered in force on our right flank. - -Continuing our route, we crossed the river Arga, and entered the town -of Villalba: our baggage at last came up, and the Casa in which we were -quartered was enclosed by a good garden, well stocked with vegetables, -which was considered a piece of good fortune in those times. This -day, the 25th, General Graham overtook General Foy, retiring from the -vicinity of Bilboa, who, on hearing of the unhappy extent of the French -disasters at Vittoria, made an effort to block up the passage through -Tolosa, but the victorious English broke through all obstacles, and -continued to advance. In a few days the small garrison of Los Passages -surrendered themselves prisoners. Thus it was that the left wing of the -army had hardly halted since issuing from the _bowels of Portugal_, -until the precipitous bank of the river Bidassoa (which divided France -and Spain), put a stop for a time to its memorable march and victorious -career. - -On the 26th we had an idea that we should halt, but during the day we -were again under arms, (marching by an excellent road running S.S.E., -leading direct on Tafalla,) accompanied by the third and fourth -divisions, with a proportion of cavalry and artillery, to endeavour to -cut off General Clausel's corps, which had approached Vittoria the day -after the battle; but he also, being made acquainted with the total -route of _El Rey Joseph_, immediately countermarched on Logroño, and -thence to Tudella.[52] During the movements of the right and left wings -of the British army, General Hill, with the centre, showed front, and -_masked_ Pampeluna. - -The weather now cleared up, but continued variable during the whole -summer; the seasons here being totally different from the dry and -scorching heats in the more southern provinces, where the sun-burnt -mountains and vast plains, are covered, at this time of the year, with -a parched vegetation, or the remains of many cindered forests. - -Continuing our movement, we became once again extricated from the -mountainous regions, which had every where enclosed us for more than a -fortnight. The country was now open, and highly cultivated, with groups -of bold peasantry lining each side of the way, and greeting us by -crying _Vivan los Coluros, y viva el Réy Fernándo séptimo_; and, while -moving in the direction of Tudella, our enthusiastic hopes were raised -to the highest pitch, at the probability of reaching the venerable and -renowned city of Saragossa; but our line was all at once changed, and -by a forced march we entered the province of Aragon, passing through a -barbarous-looking country, barely peopled, (the forlorn _pueblos_ lying -wide asunder, the poor dwellings being mostly constructed of dried mud, -and plastered over with the same substance;) and at the expiration of -five days we reached Sanguessa, and encamped. - -Here we halted one day,[53] and, while promenading the town in the -evening, the soft notes of music floated in the air, and on a nearer -approach to the place whence the sounds issued, we were agreeably -saluted by the scraping and cheerful notes of violins. A crowd of -Spaniards had assembled round the door of the _Casa_, and on being -questioned by another officer and myself whether the ball was public, -"_Oh si señores_," answered they, "_es muy público_:" so, bustling up -the stone steps, and feeling our way along a dark passage, we found -ourselves, on opening a massive door, amongst many _señoritas_, with a -scarcity of _caballeros_. A staff-officer, who was the promoter of the -dance, expressed his gladness at so opportune an arrival. Although a -friend, we apologised to him for the apparent intrusion; but he was a -man of no ceremony, and declared it to be a lucky mistake; which turned -out to be the case, for we beat good waltz time during the whole night, -to the great satisfaction of the _señoritas_. - -On reaching the camp the following morning, the tents were already -struck, and the troops moving off on their return to Pampeluna. What -with the overpowering rays of the sun, the rising clouds of dust, and -our overnight's exertion, we were so overcome, that had it not been for -the kindly arms of the soldiers, we should have dropped from off our -horses, while fast asleep, dreaming of black-eyed _señoras, waltzing, -and precipices_! - -In two days we reached Pampeluna by a more direct road, but the men -began to flag, owing to irregular and poor feeding; besides which, we -had been marching for thirty-two days, with only two regular halts, -since quitting our camp between Toro and Salamanca; therefore, those -plagued and suffering from sore feet were under the painful necessity -(unless totally unable to proceed), of going on until they got well -again. I have often seen the blood soaking through the gaiters, and -over the heels of the soldiers' hard shoes, whitened with the dust. - -The general-in-chief having cleared his right flank, and again -condensed his right and centre round Pampeluna, debouched thence on -the 4th July, for the purpose of taking possession of the passes of -the western Pyrenees, and pushing the enemy's vanguard out of the -valley of Bastan into France; which was executed by part of the second -division, on the 7th. Our division, forming the left centre of the -army, flanked this movement. - -Our route at first lay through verdant and luxuriant valleys, -abounding with apple orchards, groves of chesnut trees, and small -fields of Indian corn; from thence we ascended by broken roads, over -rugged mountains, which were cracked in many places into vast chasms, -overhung with oak trees of enormous magnitude, whose ponderous and wide -spreading branches cast their dark shadows over the dried water-courses -and natural grottos, formed by the intricate mazes of the underwood, -entwining around the peaked and overhanging rocks, which in many places -were garnished with wild strawberries. - -The third day after leaving Pampeluna, we descended from the mountains -into the compact little town of St. Estevan, situated on the rocky -and woody bank of the clear stream of the Bidassoa, over which a good -stone bridge communicates with the opposite side of the river: here we -halted, with full leisure to explore the lovely scenery, which on every -side encircled this secluded valley. - -Our curiosity was much excited by the peculiar method of washing in -this part of the country, the women squatting, or rather sitting on -their bare heels, with their lower garments tightly pulled about them, -whilst others stood in the river rinsing the linen, with their only -petticoat tied in a knot very high up betwixt their legs, displaying -the most perfect symmetry; and it was morally impossible to refrain -from admiring the natural and graceful forms of these nymphs. - -The dress of the Basque peasantry is totally different from that of -other provinces, and many of the females possess very fair complexions -and are extremely beautiful, being a happy mixture of _las brunas y -las blondas_; their hair is combed back without any curls, and plaited -into a long tail, which hangs down below the hips; their jackets are -of blue or brown cloth, and pinned so exceedingly tight across the -breast, that the bosom seldom swells to any size; the woollen and only -petticoat worn by them is of a light or mixed colour, reaching to the -middle of the calf of the leg; and, with the exception of the bosom -being so compressed, they are divinely formed. They are also remarkably -nimble of foot, and always carry their little merchandize on the top of -the head; they seldom wear shoes or stockings, except on Sundays and -saints' days. The men go bare-necked, and wear a blue cap, or bonnet, -(precisely similar to those worn in the highlands of Scotland,) with -bushy hair hanging in ringlets on their shoulders. In hot weather -they usually carry the short blue, or brown jacket, slung over the -left shoulder, and with long and rapid strides, or at times, breaking -into a short run, they traverse the steep acclivities with their shoes -and stockings frequently slung on a long pole, which they either carry -sloped over the shoulder, or grasped in the middle like a javelin, and -use it for the purpose of assisting them in scaling or descending the -crags, or frightful precipices. Their waistcoats are double-breasted, -without a collar; the breeches are of brown cloth, or blue velveteen, -fitting tight over the hips, (without braces), and reaching to the cap -of the knee, where they are usually unbuttoned, to give full play to -the limbs; a red sash is twisted round the loins. They are a gaunt, -sinewy, and remarkably active race of men, of sallow complexions; their -limbs are admirably proportioned, and they are as upright as a dart. - -After a rest of two days, we marched towards Bera by a narrow road, -running parallel on the right bank of the river Bidassoa, the greater -part of the way being blocked up with large stones, or fragments of -rock, which had tumbled from the overhanging cliffs, that were rent in -many places into terrific chasms, partly choked with huge trunks or -roots of trees, through which overwhelming torrents gushed from the -mountains during the heavy rains and formed vast cataracts, often -swelling the river into a foaming and angry torrent. Its rocky bed is -fordable at this time of the year, and varies from thirty, to more -than a hundred yards in breadth. Owing to the badness of the road, a -number of infantry soldiers were employed in clearing away obstacles, -or lifting the wheels of the cannon, with handspikes, over the loose -fragments or projecting slabs of rock, which, at every few paces for -three leagues impeded their progress. - -During the march we passed near the bridges of Sunbilla, Yansi, and -Lazaca, which cross to the left bank of the river, where some Spanish -sentinels were posted on the cliffs, who called out to us, "_miren -ustedes, miren los Franceses_," and on casting our eyes upwards, we -observed three of the enemy's _chasseurs à cheval_, looking down on us -as if from the clouds. Part of the division had been already detached, -for the purpose of keeping a look out up the narrow road to the right -leading to the heights of Echalar. Just before we reached the mouth of -this contracted defile, a buzz from the head of the column proclaimed -the enemy's infantry to be at hand, and the musketry had no sooner -commenced, than an officer, who had been amusing himself by the perusal -of a volume of _Gil Blas_, hastily placed it under the breast of his -grey pelisse: almost at the same instant a musket ball buried itself -in the middle of the book, and displaced him from his horse, without -inflicting any further injury; it is a curious fact, that the exact -pattern of the silk braiding of the pelisse[54] was indented in the -leaden bullet. - -Our front being speedily cleared of the enemy's skirmishers, the firing -ceased, and we entered a pleasant valley, within half a mile of Bera, -which on this road is the frontier town of Spain, and is situated at -an elbow, on the right bank of the Bidassoa: it has a good church with -a lofty steeple, and consists of one long straggling street, a quarter -of a mile in length, and immediately at the foot of the mountain de -Comissari, over which a steep road, three yards broad, crosses the -summit, which is called the _puérta de Bera_, and leads N.N.E. to St. -Jean de Luz, in France; two other roads, if they may be so designated, -branch off right and left from Bera, the first running easterly along -the valley, (parallel with a small rivulet which empties itself into -the Bidassoa), and passes between the great rock of La Rhune and the -opposite mountain of St. Bernard, to St. Barbe and Sarré, into France; -at this point the rugged defile is very narrow, and almost causes a -complete _break or separation_ in the western Pyrenees: the other road -from Bera runs across the Bidassoa, over a narrow stone bridge, four -hundred yards from the town, to Salines, thence branching off through -gloomy forests and over steep mountains to Oyarzun, Passages, and Saint -Sebastian. - -From Salines there is also a narrow rugged pathway, which traverses -N.N.W. by the winding current, on the left bank of the Bidassoa; it is -intersected with loose stones, and in many places ascends the steep and -difficult acclivities over the naked rock, and finally enters the great -road beyond Irun, which leads across the Bidassoa (where the enemy had -broken down the bridge) into France, thence passing over the river -Nivelle to St. Jean de Luz, and on to Bayonne, a distance of about -twenty-four miles from Irun, which is the frontier town of Spain by -that route. - -The right of the enemy immediately opposed to us rested on a nearly -perpendicular rock, at an elbow of the Bidassoa, and overlooking the -small market place of Bera, so much so, that, if inclined, they might -have smashed the roofs of the houses, at the west end of the town, by -rolling down upon them huge fragments of rock. This post was decorated -with a variety of fancy flags, or strips of cloth, of various colours, -tied at the top of long poles while groups of French tirailleurs, who -encircled them, sounded their small shrill trumpets, _and jocosely -invited us to the attack_. - -Their centre or reserve, composed of black columns, crowned the heights -on each side of the _Puerta de Bera_, and also the wooded heights -extending to the base of the rock of La Rhune, on which their left was -stationed in an old ruin. - -The ground having been fully examined, and the picquets properly -placed, we re-entered the mouth of the pass, and, having cut down two -or three small fields of Indian corn, and stored it up as provender -for the animals, we encamped on the stubble close to the river. The -day was fine, but during the night the rain descended in torrents, and -continued to fall so heavily for two days, as to swamp the ground on -which our tents were pitched, and it was with the utmost exertion that -we could keep them upright, owing to the frequent gusts of wind tearing -the pegs out of the liquid mud. In these damp and chilly regions the -tents proved of incalculable service to the army. The weather again -clearing, our first brigade ascended the bare heights of Santa Barbara, -the second brigade occupied a rising ground to protect the entrance -of the defile leading to St. Estevan, and the picquets were pushed -into the town of Bera, (within half a stone's throw and beneath those -of the enemy), and into the farm houses in the valley, enclosed by -orchards.[55] - -The stupendous and lofty chain of the western Pyrenees being now taking -up for the purpose of covering Pampeluna and St. Sebastian, the second -division occupied the various rugged paths and passes winding Up the -steep sides of the mountains near Roncesvalles and Maya; the seventh -division those of Echalar; the light division the heights of Santa -Barbara, and the road leading to St. Estevan, opposite to Bera; and the -first division and Spaniards guarding the left bank of the Bidassoa -to the sea-coast. The latter troops helped to block up the numerous -_gaps_, all along the crest of the position, such as mountain paths, -goat tracts, and dried water-courses, as well as the numerous fords -across the Bidassoa. This extended position is about thirty-eight miles -in extent, as the crow flies, running north west from Roncesvalles -to the town of Fontarabia, (which is situated near the mouth of -the Bidassoa, where this river empties itself into the sea,) but -necessarily following the rugged and zigzag flinty roads, along the -winding or crooked valleys, or over difficult mountains, intersected -with deep glens, chasms, craggy defiles, tremendous precipices, and -through almost impenetrable forests. The distance may be fairly -calculated at sixty miles for troops to march from right to left. - -On the 13th, the Duke of Dalmatia came from the north for the -purpose of taking the command of the French army. The 15th being the -anniversary of Napoleon's birth-day, the enemy at night illuminated -their bivouac, by ingeniously festooning the branches of the trees with -thousands of paper lamps, which produced a very bright glare, and of -course presented a very novel appearance. - -Four days after this, the fifth division began to dig the trenches at -St. Sebastian, for the purpose of erecting batteries to batter _en -brêche_. The third and fourth divisions, which had been kept in the -neighbourhood of Pampeluna in reserve, and also to assist the Spaniards -in drawing a line of circumvallation round that place, for the purpose -of hemming in and starving the garrison into a surrender, now moved -forward (leaving a Spanish corps to guard the lines); the former went -to Olacque, and the latter to Biscarret; the sixth division was at -St. Estevan: _these three divisions being the reserve_, and ready to -succour at those points where their assistance might be required. The -cavalry and artillery were cantoned in rear of the centre and left of -the whole army. - -One evening, while reclining on the parched and sun-burnt turf at -the tent door, our milch goat nibbling particles of hard biscuit out -of my hand, on looking around, I was much struck with the beauty of -the scenery; the azure sky was reddened and glowing with a variety of -brilliant tints, reflected from the glare of the setting sun, whose -bright rays glided the rugged peaks of the towering and great bulging -mountains which every where inclosed us. A long line of grey-coated -French sentinels lined the opposite ridge, and one of their bands was -playing a lively French air. In the valley below us, the little active -Basque boys and girls were pelting each other with apples,[56] between -the hostile armies, while the straggling and half-starved Spanish -soldiers (who dared not pluck the fruit) pretending to enjoy the sport, -but in reality were picking up the apples, and carefully depositing -them in their small forage bags. In the back ground sat our tanned and -veteran batman,[57] employed in mending a pack-saddle, after a long -day's forage, and casting an eye of affection towards his animals, -which were tied round a stake, feeding, with ears turned back, on some -fresh heads of Indian corn. In the meanwhile my messmate was conversing -with, and drawing a caricature of, a dowdy woman,[58] (from the -Asturias,) loaded with an oblong basket of fresh butter, with her arms -akimbo, and her nut-brown knuckles resting on hips which supported no -less than four short coarse woollen petticoats; from underneath these -branched out a pair of straddling legs, of enormous circumference, the -feet being wrapped in brown hairy skins, by way of sandals. In this -position of things my contemplative mood was all at once interrupted -by an officer of the _rifle corps_ riding up, who, with a mysterious -air, whispered me, by way of a profound secret, that he had become -acquainted with a Spanish family, residing in the town of Bera, and -offered to introduce me, provided I would agree to limit my attentions -to the eldest daughter, _Maria Pepa_, who, he acknowledged, was endowed -with very ordinary attractions, whereas her sister, _Ventura_, of -seventeen, possessed charms of a far superior description. As a matter -of course, not wishing to throw any impediments in the way of so -liberal an offer, I readily acquiesced in the proposal, and forthwith -accompanied him to the _destined_ Casa, for as such I may justly -nominate it, as I may affirm that this introduction was subsequently -the means of the life of a wounded brother officer being preserved, -owing to the kind attention of its inmates, who watched over his -mattress night and day, until he was out of danger: his hurt in fact -was so severe, that when a doctor was asked how he found the patient, he -replied. "Pretty well, but no man can ever recover from such a wound." - -On alighting from our horses we entered the house, and having ascended -the staircase, we found _el Padre, la Madre, y las dos hijas_ seated in -a spacious apartment, with the casements open, and a French sentinel, -who was posted on a projecting grey rock, so thoroughly overlooking the -house, that we could almost fancy he could overhear the lamentations -of the anxious parents, who, devoutly crossing themselves, prayed that -the siege of St. Sebastian might be speedily brought to a conclusion, -to enable them to return to their house at that place, and secure the -valuable plate and property, which they had been forced to abandon in -great haste, to escape being confined in that town during the siege. -Having passed some hours with them in a very agreeable manner, we took -our departure, with a promise of shortly renewing our visit. - -The left and main body of the French army, being now concentrated, -formed a line at the foot of the Pyrenees, in the vicinity of Forage -and St. Jean Pied de Port, in France, with its right wing occupying the -mountains from the Rock of la Rhune to Bera, thence by the right of -the Bidassoa to Andaye, and flanked by the Bay of Biscay. This ridge -immediately covers the country in front of St. Jean de Luz and Bayonne. - -Preparatorily to offensive movements, the French marshal issued a -flaming proclamation to his troops, in which he reminded them that -the standards of Britain waved aloft, and that her army, from the -summits of the Pyrenees, proudly looked down on the fertile fields of -France,—an evil which he attributed to the want of decision in the -late French commanders. "Let us then," said the Marshal, "wipe off the -stain from our faded laurels, by chasing the English beyond Vittoria, -and there celebrate another triumph, to add to the many victories which -have so often decorated your brows, in all parts of Spain, _and on many -a hard-fought day_." - -[Footnote 51: Lieut.-Colonel Ross of the Horse Artillery, as usual, -commanded this troop.] - -[Footnote 52: There he gained information of our movements, which -forced him to follow the right bank of the Ebro, until he reached -Saragossa, where, crossing the river, and leaving a small garrison -behind, he moved towards the pass of Jaca, and entering France on the -1st of July, he at last succeeded, after a round-about march, with the -loss of the greater part of his _matériel_, in forming a junction with -the French army.] - -[Footnote 53: There was a great scarcity of wood in the neighbourhood -of this place, and as the third division followed ours, Sir Thomas -Picton cast his eye on a pile ready cut, and, as soon as he had -dismissed his division, sent a regular party, with a _val_, to secure -it, when, lo! it had all vanished!] - -[Footnote 54: Many of the officers of our corps wore red and grey -pelisses, similar to those of the Hussars. The bullet which I have -described was afterwards shown as a curiosity, and I examined it -myself; the silk braiding had been carried into the compressed leaves -of the book, and remained twisted tight round the ball.] - -[Footnote 55: These produce an abundance of small tart apples.] - -[Footnote 56: This was a usual pastime among them, throughout the -mountains, which abounded with vast quantities of apple trees. One -day another officer and myself were enjoying a rural walk, when we -met two of our friends, whom for amusement we pelted with apples, and -drove them at full speed out of the orchard. All of a sudden, we were -assailed by a number of the Basque boys, led on by a girl, who had -witnessed our sport at a distance, and, although we piqued ourselves on -being pretty good throwers, we found it a difficult matter to contend -with them, from their dexterity in dealing out such irritating blows -on our faces and legs; until, being ashamed to ask for quarter of -such diminutive and laughing antagonists, we made a last effort, and -succeeded in hitting one of their leaders on the bare heel, when they -all ran away, to our exceeding satisfaction. My companion had been a -Cadet at the Royal Military College at Marlow, and declared that he had -never experienced a warmer rencontre in his more juvenile affrays at -that place.] - -[Footnote 57: The batmen of the army were hard-working and privileged -characters, who, after unloading at the end of harassing marches were -obliged to go a great distance in search of forage, and armed with a -sickle ready to cut down even rushes, or any thing they could lay their -hands upon, for their famished animals. If all happened to be right, -after a long day's journey when questioned by the anxious officers (no -matter of what rank), they would negligently turn away, and scarcely -give any answer; but if one of their horses or mules happened to be -lame or suffering from a sore back, or had cast a shoe, they would -fret, fume, curse, swear, throw the ropes about, and give such a -catalogue of evils, as to terrify the master with the idea that all was -going to rack and ruin.] - -[Footnote 58: These hardy women are in the habit, thus heavily loaded, -of walking thirty or forty miles a day.] - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - - Offensive operations of the Duke of Dalmatia—Partial retrogression - of the British—Ill success in the storming of the breaches at St. - Sebastian—Movements of the various divisions—Great extent of - the British line along the Pyrenees—Interesting domestic scene - attending the departure of the Author's Division from the town - of Bera—Battle of Pampeluna—Embarrasing situation of the light - division through an accidental separation from the army—Successes - obtained over the French, and their consequent retreat—Active - movements, and capture of the enemy's baggage—A trait of - character—Continued advantages gained over the French, who are - driven beyond the Pyrenees. - - -The Duke of Dalmatia, on the 25th of July, assaulted the passes in -the neighbourhood of Roncesvalles,[59] and the Count d'Erlon that of -Aretesque, four miles in front of Maya. The result of this day's combat -obliged Generals Cole, Byng, and the Spanish General Morillo, to fall -back from Roncesvalles; owing to which retrograde, the British army -were taken in reverse. The fifth division, at daybreak, had stormed -the breaches of St. Sebastian without success; two thousand men had -fallen, or were made prisoners, at the various points of contest; and -General Hill fell back, during the night, from the pass of Maya. So -far every thing seemed propitious to the views of the French marshal. -Under all these circumstances, General Campbell, (who was stationed -with a Portuguese brigade at the pass of Los Alduides,) finding his -flanks laid bare, retired from that post, and, during the 26th, formed -a junction with General Picton, who, by a flank movement to the right, -had marched from Olacque to Lizoain, for the purpose of succouring the -troops falling back from Roncesvalles. - -During these operations, General Hill had taken up a strong position at -Irrueta, sixteen miles from the pass of Aretesque, where he opposed, -for the time being, the farther progress of the Count d'Erlon. This -position covered the flank of General Picton's column, retrograding -from Zubiri, and prevented the Count d'Erlon from uniting with the -Duke of Dalmatia; and also enabled the sixth division to march direct -to the rear from San Estevan, and to unite at the well-arranged -point _d'appui_, five miles in front of Pampeluna, where, on the -27th, the general-in-chief joined those troops which had retired from -Zubiri, under the command of Generals Picton, Cole, Byng, Campbell, -and Morillo, and who were now drawn up on a strong ridge in front of -Pampeluna, and flanked by the rivers Arga and Lanz. General Picton was -in a manner thrown back on the left of the Arga, in front of Olaz, -and supported by General Cotton, with the cavalry in reserve, for the -purpose of preventing the enemy from taking the right of the army in -reverse by the road from Zubiri. The enemy, who had followed the march -of the troops by that road, had no sooner arrived opposite the third -division, than by an oblique prolongation to their right, they began -to extend their line across the front of the General-in-chief, under -a fire of small-arms,—by which manœuvre they succeeded in cutting -off General Hill's retreat by the Maya road, running through Ortiz; -he, therefore, having passed through Lanz, hedged off diagonally in -a westerly direction, and, by an oblique march, formed a junction -with the seventh division (from St. Estevan) at Lizasso, thence to -co-operate, if possible, with the left of the General-in-chief, -whose position in front of Pampeluna was about eighteen miles from -that place. During these various movements, General Graham, with -the first and fifth divisions, and a corps of Spaniards, remained -stationary on the left bank of the Bidassoa, for the double purpose -of covering St. Sebastian, (the siege of that place was now converted -into a blockade, and the battering train embarked at the port of los -Passages,) and watching General Villate. The latter lined the opposite -bank of the river, to be in readiness to assume the offensive, for the -purpose of raising the siege of St. Sebastian, or hanging on General -Graham's rear, in the event of the Duke of Dalmatia gaining a victory -at Pampeluna, or succeeding in cutting off in detail the various -divisions of the British army, now thrown into echelon, and extending -from the banks of the Bidassoa, in front of Irun, to seven miles in -an easterly direction beyond Pampeluna; a distance of at least sixty -miles for the army to unite to either flank, (between two fortresses, -whose ramparts were garnished with the cannon and small-arms of the -enemy,) on an irregular quarter circle: amid multifarious barren rocks, -towering mountains, and extensive forests, over whose inhospitable -regions it was necessary, amongst other things, to convey provisions, -ammunition, and biscuit bags, for the daily consumption of the -moveable divisions,—an operation attended with great difficulty under -such circumstances. - -Although the right of the army had been retiring for two days, the -light division still tranquilly remained unmolested in front of Bera; -but on the morning of the 27th, on finding that the seventh division -had quitted the heights of Echalar, and uncovered our right flank, the -first brigade quietly descended from the heights of Santa Barbara, -and the whole division concentrated behind the defile on the road to -Lazaca, the picquets being left to mask this movement, and form the -rear-guard. As soon as the division had got clear off, the picquets -evacuated the farm-houses in succession from the right; and lastly, -at ten o'clock, A. M., quitted the town of Bera within pistol-shot of -the enemy's sentinels, who pretended not to notice this retrograde, -probably being apprehensive of bringing on an action without being -able at this point to display a sufficient force to assume offensive -movements, and also conjecturing that the division might meet with -a reception little anticipated, on reaching the neighbourhood of -Pampeluna. The Duke of Dalmatia, at this moment, was still pursuing the -troops from Roncesvalles and Zubiri, and actually within a few hours -of the vicinity of Pampeluna, _two days' march behind the second and -seventh divisions, and three in rear of the light division_, and even -_threatening to intercept the sixth division_ from St. Estevan. - -As I was left with the picquets at Bera, I had a good opportunity -of witnessing the _sang froid_ of the French outposts. They made -no forward movement, and as I was loitering behind, within a short -distance of the bridge of Lazaca, over which the troops had crossed to -the left bank of the Bidassoa, I observed the Spanish family, (with -whom I had recently become acquainted,) with rapid strides trudging -along the flinty road, having rushed from their only dwelling through -fear of the French, the instant they perceived the sentries retiring -from their posts. They now presented real objects of commiseration, -clad in thin shoes and silk stockings; the glossy ringlets were blown -from off the forehead of _la Señorita Ventura_, and a tear from her -dark blue eye, (shaded with raven eye-lashes), rolled down her flushed -cheek, into the prettiest pouting lips to be imagined; a _mantilla_ -loosely hung across her arm, fluttering in the breeze, and a black -silk dress, hanging in graceful folds around her delicate form, gave -her, with all her troubles, a most enchanting appearance. _El Padre_ -accepted the offer of my horse, and, sticking his short legs into -the stirrup leathers, composedly smoked a cigar. The mother took -my arm, the other I offered to _Ventura_, who smilingly declined, -saying, "It is not the fashion for _las Señoritas_ to take the arm of -_los Caballeros_," but politely offered her hand. While crossing the -bridge, "Here," said the little heroine, "why do you not call back -_los soldados_, and tell them to _tirár las bálas a este puénte_?" I -endeavoured to explain that our flank was turned, and all the grand -manœuvres of an army; little to her satisfaction, for she could not -comprehend any other than the front attack. - -On entering the town, the family stopped at a large stone mansion of a -relation, where they intended to take up their abode for the present: -the parents urged my departure, through fear that I might fall into the -hands of the enemy. I then took my farewell of them, (as I thought, for -the last time), and galloping through the town, soon came within sight -of the division, threading its march up a steep defile, enclosed on all -sides by an extensive forest. Towards evening we encamped, one league -and a half W. N. W. of San Estevan, on the mountain of Santa Cruz, from -whence we still commanded a view of the French bivouac. Here we halted -during the night. - -On the following day, the battle of Pampeluna took place thirty -miles in our rear, but, being entangled amongst the mountains, we did -not hear of the event until three days afterwards. The combat began -in a singular manner: the sixth division, under Gen. Pack, while on -its march over a rough country, intersected by stone walls, within a -few miles of Pampeluna, suddenly encountered the grey-coated French -columns in full march, debouching from behind the village of Sauroren -for the purpose of outflanking the left of the fourth division. The -consequence of these two hostile bodies clashing was, that the enemy's -van were driven back by a hot fire of musketry. The French, being thus -foiled in this manœuvre, turned their grand efforts against the front -of the heights on which the fourth division was stationed, commanded by -Sir L. Cole. The valour of the red regiments shone transcendant, and -the Marquis of Wellington repeatedly thanked the various corps, while -they were recovering breath to renew fresh efforts with the bayonet, in -driving the enemy headlong from the crest of the rugged heights; thus -forcing them, after a most sanguinary and furious contest, to desist -from farther offensive movements on that position. - -The General-in-chief could only collect, at the end of three days, -two brigades of the second division, General Morillo's, and part of -the Count d'Abisbal's Spaniards, and the _three reserve divisions_, -to oppose the Duke of Dalmatia; which clearly demonstrates the great -difficulty of occupying such a vast and rugged range of country. The -_first_, _second_, _fifth_, _seventh_, and _light divisions_, were -too far distant to join in the action of the 28th; and even the third -division, only a few miles to the right of the field of action, could -not take part in it, as the enemy had a corps of observation opposite -General Picton, backed by a numerous train of artillery and a large -body of cavalry, in readiness to engage him, should the _sixth_ and -_fourth_ divisions lose the day. - -The light division continued in position at Santa Cruz during the -whole of the 28th, having completely lost all trace of the army; and, -during these doubtful conjectures, at sunset we began to descend a -rugged pass, leading W.S.W. near Zubieta, to endeavour to cut in upon -the high road between Pampeluna and Tolosa, as it was impossible to -know whether General Graham, by this time, was not even beyond the -latter town. To add to our difficulties, the night set in so extremely -dark that the soldiers could no longer see each other, and began to -tumble about in all directions; some became stationary on shelvings -of rocks, or so enveloped in the thicket, that they could no longer -extricate themselves from the trees and underwood. The rocks and the -forest resounded with many voices, while here and there a small fire -was kindled and flared up, as if lighted in the clouds by some magic -hand. For myself, I at length became so exhausted and out of temper, at -the toil of lugging along my unwilling steed, that in a fit of despair -I mounted, and keeping a tight rein, permitted the animal to pick its -own steps. The branches of the trees so continually twisted round my -head that I expected every minute to find myself suspended; at last the -trusty horse made a dead stop, having emerged from the forest into a -small hamlet, where I encountered a few harrassed soldiers, enquiring -of each other where the main body had vanished to, or what direction -to pursue, for they no longer knew whether they were advancing or -retiring; and, without farther ceremony, they began to batter with -the butt-end of their firelocks the strong and massive doors of the -slumbering inhabitants, demanding, with stentorian voices, if any -troops had passed that way?—a difficult question for people to answer -who had just risen from their mattresses, and now timidly opened their -doors, in considerable alarm, being apprehensive that we had come at -midnight hour to rob and plunder them. At last a resolute Spaniard[60] -threw a large capote over his shoulder, and, stepping forward, said, -"_Señores Caballeros_, only inform me whence you came or whither you -are going, and I will be your guide;" but we were so bewildered, owing -to the crooked path, and the intricate windings of the forest, that no -one could take upon himself to point towards the direction of the bleak -mountain we had come from, or the name of the place we were going to; -as a matter of expediency, therefore, we patiently awaited the coming -morn.[61] - -At daybreak, a scene of complete confusion presented itself, the -greater part of the division being scattered over the face of a steep -and woody mountain, and positively not half a league from whence they -had started on the previous evening. As soon as the various corps had -grouped together, they followed the only road in sight, and soon met -a mounted officer, who directed them towards Leyza: near that place -one-half of the division were already bivouacked, having reached the -valley before the pitchy darkness had set in. It was now the third -day since we had retired from Bera, and Gen. Baron C. Alten became so -uneasy, that he ordered some of the best-mounted regimental officers -to go in various directions to ascertain, if possible, some tidings of -the army, with which he had had no communication for three days, being -now isolated amongst the wilds of the Pyrenees, on the left of the -river Bidassoa, half-way between St. Sebastian and Pampeluna. At six -o'clock the same evening we again broke up and marched two leagues in -the direction of Arressa, and then bivouacked in a wood, with an order -not to light fires, thus to prevent any of the enemy's scouts or spies -ascertaining our route. Two hours after nightfall, the troops were -again put in motion, and I was left in the forest, with directions to -continue there all night, to bring off in the morning any baggage or -stragglers that might happen to go astray. At daylight on the 30th, -having collected together a few women (who dared not again encounter -another toilsome night-march along the verge of precipices); it was -a droll sight to see this noisy group defiling from the forest, many -dressed in soldiers' jackets, battered bonnets, and faded ribbons, -with dishevelled locks hanging over their weather-beaten features, as -they drove along their lazy _borricas_ with a thick stick; and, when -the terrific blows laid on ceased to produce the desired effect, they -squalled with sheer vexation, lest they might be overtaken, and fall -into the hands of the enemy's light horse. Having travelled for two -hours as a sort of guide to these poor women, I perceived an officer -at some distance in front, and, on my overtaking him, he expressed the -greatest joy at seeing me, and declared that he had been wandering for -some hours in the most agitated state of mind, not knowing whither to -bend his footsteps. The division had drawn up again during the night, -and he having, lain down on the flank of the column, had fallen into -a profound slumber, out of which he had awoke at broad daylight, with -the rays of the sun shining full on his face; and, when somewhat -recovering his bewildered recollections, he wildly gazed around for -the column which had vanished, and springing on his feet, hallooed -with all his might; but no answer was returned, a solemn silence -reigned around, save the fluttering of the birds amongst the luxuriant -foliage of the trees; the morning dew no longer bespangled the sod, -nor did the print of a single footstep remain to guide his course: at -length, in a fit of desperation, he hastily tore a passage through the -thicket, and luckily reached the road, and at random sauntered along -in no very pleasant mood, until I overtook him.—Soon after this we -heard to our left sounds like those of distant thunder; as the sky was -perfectly serene, we concluded that the noise must be caused by a heavy -firing of musketry.[62] On reaching Arriba, we found most of the doors -closed; however, we succeeded in purchasing a loaf, and then seated -ourselves on the margin of a clear mountain-stream, where we devoured -it, and forthwith solaced ourselves with a hearty draught of the -refreshing beverage. This stream looked so inviting, that we threw off -our clothes and plunged into it. Notwithstanding the cooling effects -of the bathe, the feet of my companion were so much swollen, owing to -previous fatigue, that with all his tugging he could not pull on his -boots again; fortunately mine were old and easy, so we readily effected -an exchange, and then followed the road across a high mountain, from -whose summit we saw the division bivouacked to the right of the broad -and well-paved road (near Lecumberri) which leads from Pampeluna to -Tolosa; from this position we could march to either of those places, -being half-way between them; here the division awaited the return of -its scouts the whole of the following day. - -The French army being completely worn out, and having suffered terribly -in killed and wounded, continued to retreat during the 31st, followed -by the five victorious divisions of the British in three columns, by -the roads of Roncesvalles, Maya, and Donna Maria. On the evening of -the same day, although obliquely to the rear of the pursuing columns, -we received orders, if possible, to overtake the enemy, and attack -them wherever they might be found. Accordingly, in the middle of the -night we got under arms and began our march. Towards the middle of the -following day, (the 1st of August), having already marched twenty-four -miles, we descended into a deep valley between Ituren and Elgoriaga, -where the division drew up in column to reconnoitre the right flank of -the enemy, who were still hovering in the neighbourhood of San Estevan. -After an hour's halt, we continued our movement on the left of the -Bidassoa, and for three hours ascended, or rather clambered, the rugged -asperities of a prodigious mountain, the by-path of which was composed -of overlapping slabs of rock, or stepping-stones. At four o'clock in -the afternoon a flying dust was descried, glistening with the bright -and vivid flashes of small-arms, to the right of the Bidassoa, and -in the valley of Lerin. A cry was instantly set up "the enemy!" the -worn soldiers raised their bent heads covered with dust and sweat: -we had nearly reached the summit of this tremendous mountain, but -nature was quite exhausted; many of the soldiers lagged behind, having -accomplished more than thirty miles over the rocky roads intersected -with loose stones; many fell heavily on the naked rocks, frothing at -the mouth, black in the face, and struggling in their last agonies; -whilst others, unable to drag one leg after the other, leaned on the -muzzles of their firelocks, looking pictures of despair, and muttering, -in disconsolate accents, that they had never "fallen out" before. - -The sun was shining in full vigour, but fortunately numerous clear -streams bubbled from the cavities and fissures of the rocks, -(which were clothed in many places by beautiful evergreens,) and -allayed the burning thirst of the fainting men. The hard work of an -infantry soldier at times is beyond all calculation, and death, by -the road-side, frequently puts an end to his sufferings,—but what -description can equal such an exit? - -At seven in the evening, the division having been in march nineteen -hours, and accomplished nearly forty miles, it was found absolutely -necessary to halt the second brigade near Aranaz, as a rallying -point. Being now parallel with the enemy, and some hours a-head of -the vanguard leading the left column of our army, our right brigade -still hobbled onwards; at twilight we overlooked the enemy within -stone's throw, and from the summit of a tremendous precipice: the -river separated us; but the French were wedged in a narrow road, with -inaccessible rocks enclosing them on one side, and the river on the -other: such confusion took place amongst them as is impossible to -describe; the wounded were thrown down during the rush, and trampled -upon, and their cavalry drew their swords, and endeavoured to charge -up the pass of Echalar, (the only opening on their right flank,) but -the infantry beat them back, and several of them, horses and all, were -precipitated into the river; others fired vertically at us, whilst the -wounded called out for quarter, and pointed to their numerous soldiers, -supported on the shoulders of their comrades in bearers, composed of -branches of trees, to which were suspended great coats, clotted with -gore, or blood-stained sheets, taken from various habitations, to carry -off their wounded, on whom we did not fire. - -Our attention was soon called from this melancholy spectacle to -support the rifle corps,[63] while they repulsed the enemy, who had -crossed over the bridge of Yanzi to attack us, to enable the tail of -their column to get off. Night closed on us, and the firing ceased; -but, owing to our seizing the bridge, we cut off the whole of their -baggage, which fell into the hands of the column of our army following -from St. Estevan. - -In this way ended the most trying day's march I ever remember. On the -following morning, soon after daylight, we filed across the bridge of -Yanzi, held by our pickets, and detached a small force to guard the -road towards Echalar, until the troops came up from the direction of -San Estevan, which had hung on the enemy's rear for the then three -previous days. Continuing our march, we once more debouched by the -defile opposite Bera, where the French sentinels were still posted, -as if rooted to the rocks on which they were stationed the day we had -taken our departure. - -As soon as the second brigade came up, we again ascended the heights -of Santa Barbara, where we found a French corporal, with a broken -leg, his head resting on a hairy knapsack, and supported in the arms -of a comrade, who generously remained behind to protect the life of -his friend from the _cuchillo_ of the Spaniards. As soon as he had -delivered him to the care of the English soldiers, he embraced the -corporal, saying, "_Au revoir, bon camarade Anglais_," and, throwing -his musket over his shoulder, with the butt-end _en l'air_, he -descended the mountain to rejoin the French army on the opposite -range of heights. Of course, no one offered to molest this _simple -soldat_, who easily effected his escape. As our picquets could not -enter the valley until our right was cleared, and the enemy pushed -from the mountain of Echalar, as soon as another division attacked -those heights, the 1st rifles moved on and clambered the mountain of -St. Bernard, supported by five companies of our regiment. The soldiers -had been for two days without any sustenance, and were so weak that -they could hardly stand; however, an excellent commissary had managed -to overtake us, and hastily served out half-a-pound of biscuit to each -individual, which the soldiery devoured while in the act of priming and -loading as they moved on to the attack. - -The summit of the mountain was wrapped in a dense fog: an invisible -firing commenced, and it was impossible to ascertain which party was -getting the best of the fight; the combatants were literally contending -in the clouds. When half-way up the side of the mountain, we found a -soldier of the rifles lying on his face, and bleeding so copiously -that his havresack was dyed in blood: we turned him over, and, being -somewhat recovered before he was carried off, he told us, in broken -monosyllables, that three Frenchmen had mistaken him for a Portuguese, -laid hold of him, thrust a bayonet through his thigh, smashed the stock -of his rifle, and then pushed him from off the ledge of the precipice -under which we discovered him. - -The second French light infantry were dislodged, before twilight, from -the top of this mountain; but the sparkling flashes of small-arms -continued after dark to wreath, with a crown of fire, the summits of -the various rocks about Echalar. - -Thus, after a series of difficult marches, amongst a chaotic jumble of -sterile mountains, the enemy were totally discomfited, with an enormous -loss, by a series of the most extraordinary and brilliant efforts that -had been made during the Peninsular War. For three days the French -indeed had the vantage ground, owing to their superiority of numbers at -a given point; but on the fourth day, the same divisions which had so -heroically fought while falling back, sustained, with their backs to a -hostile fortress, (whence the enemy sortied during the battle,) a most -desperate assault made by the Duke of Dalmatia, over whom the Marquis -of Wellington gained a memorable victory, and ceased not in turn to -pursue the French marshal, until he was glad to seek shelter from -whence he came. The standards of Britain again waved aloft, and flapped -in the gentle breeze over the fertile fields of France. - -[Footnote 59: Pampeluna is about thirty-five miles from the extremity -of the principal pass at Roncesvalles, forty-five from that of -Aretesque, in front of Maya, and fifty miles from the pass of Bera; all -these points it was necessary to occupy on the right of the Bidassoa; -which clearly demonstrates the advantage the enemy possessed by -attacking principally at Roncesvalles.] - -[Footnote 60: It was a frequent custom, when in want of a guide, -to employ a peasant, who received a dollar at the end of his day's -journey. These _Pizanos_, being accustomed to pastoral lives, were -well acquainted with every inch of ground or by-path for leagues -around their habitations, as well as the various fords across rivers -and tributary streams, the depth of which depends on the season of the -year, or the quantity of rain that might happen to fall at uncertain -periods on these mountains.] - -[Footnote 61: On the 29th, at the end of four days' fighting, both -Marshals desisted from hostilities in front of Pampeluna. The French -employed themselves in edging off to their right to assist the Count -d'Erlon, who had followed the march of General Hill by Lanz. The -Marquis of Wellington, on the other hand, was drawing in the seventh -division to insure a communication with General Hill, and also watching -his adversary's movements, to take advantage of what might accrue on -the morrow.] - -[Footnote 62: This firing was near Lizasso, where the enemy endeavoured -to turn General Hill's left flank by the road to Buenzu, and while -the Count d'Erlon was striving to execute this movement, the light -division, unknowingly, were marching on his right flank: however, -the General-in-chief being still in position in front of Pampeluna, -finding that the Duke of Dalmatia had weakened his left and centre, to -support the Count d'Erlon, immediately countermanœuvred, and attacked -the right of his opponent with the sixth and seventh divisions, under -Lord Dalhousie, and the left with the third division, and then pierced -the centre of the enemy with the fourth division and General Byng's -brigade of the second division, and thus before sunset pushed back -the enemy beyond Olacque. By this attack the left flank of the Count -d'Erlon became uncovered, which obliged him to fall back during the -night, towards the pass of Donna Maria, to avoid falling into the snare -originally intended for his adversary.] - -[Footnote 63: One of the first I saw wounded was Capt. Perceval, of the -rifle corps. "Well," said he, "I am a lucky fellow, with one arm maimed -and useless by my side from an old wound, and now unable to use the -other."] - - -END OF VOL. I. - - -LONDON: PRINTED BY G. SCHULZE, 13, POLAND STREET. - - - - - NAVAL AND MILITARY TALES, - LATELY PUBLISHED BY - MESSRS. COLBURN AND BENTLEY. - - -1. TALES OF A TAR. By one of the Authors of "The Naval Sketch Book." In -1 vol. post 8vo. - - CONTENTS:—The Breeze at Spithead—Jack a Biographer—Kind - Inquiries—Command O'Mind—Sailor Sal—Dreams at Sea—A Brush in - the Boats—A "Call" for the Cat. - - -2. SAILORS AND SAINTS. By the Authors of "The Naval Sketch Book." 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T. W. D. Moodie, -H. P. 21st Fusileers, Volume 1 (of 2), by Cooke, John; Fitzclarence, George Augustus Frederick; Moodie, John Wedderburn Dunbar.</title> - <link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> - <style type="text/css"> - - -body { - margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - -h1, h2 { - text-align: center; - clear: both; - margin-top: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; -} - -h1 {line-height: 1;} - -.half-title { - text-align: center; - font-size: large; -} - -p { - text-indent: 1.75em; - margin-top: .51em; - margin-bottom: .24em; - text-align: justify; -} - -.p3b {margin-bottom: 3em;} -.p5b {margin-bottom: 5em;} -.p2t {margin-top: 2em;} - -.p1 {margin-top: 1em;} - -.vspace {line-height: 1.5;} - -.in0 {text-indent: 0;} - -.xsmall {font-size: 65%;} -.small {font-size: 80%;} -.large {font-size: 125%;} -.xlarge {font-size: 150%;} - -.center {text-align: center;} - -.smcap.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} - -.bold {font-weight: bold;} - -.pagenum { - position: absolute; - right: 4%; - font-size: smaller; - text-align: right; - padding: .2% .1%; - color: #acacac; - background: #ffffff; -} - -blockquote { - margin: 2em 5%; - font-size: 95%; -} - - -/* Breaks */ -hr { - width: 45%; - margin-top: 4em; - margin-bottom: 4em; - margin-left: 27.5%; - margin-right: 27.5%; - clear: both; -} - -hr.style1 { - width: 23%; - margin-top: 4em; - margin-bottom: 4em; - margin-left: 38.5%; - margin-right: 38.5%; - clear: both; -} - - -/* Table */ -table { - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - min-width: 35%; - max-width: 80%; - border-collapse: collapse; -} - -.tdc { - text-align: center; - vertical-align: top; - padding-right: 1em; - padding-left: 1.5em; - text-indent: -1.5em; - padding-bottom: .75em; -} - -.tdl { - text-align: left; - vertical-align: top; - padding-right: 1em; - padding-left: 1.5em; - text-indent: -1.5em; - padding-bottom: .75em; -} - -.tdr { - text-align: right; - vertical-align: bottom; - padding-right: 1em; - padding-left: 1.5em; - text-indent: -1.5em; - padding-bottom: .75em; -} - - -/* Image */ -img { - padding: 0 0 0 0; - max-width: 100%; - height: auto; -} - -.figcenter { - margin: auto; - text-align: center; - margin-bottom: 1em; - margin-top: 2em; -} - - -/* Footnote */ -.footnote { - background-color: #EEE; - border: thin dashed black; - margin: 1.5em 10%; - padding: .5em 1em .5em 1.5em; -} - -.footnote {font-size: .95em;} -.footnote p {text-indent: 1em;} - -.fnanchor { text-decoration: none;} - - -/* Hang */ -.hang { - margin: .5em 5% 3em 5%; - text-align: justify; - padding-left: 1.5em; - text-indent: -1.5em; -} - - -/* Transcriber Note */ -.transnote { - background-color: #EEE; - border: thin dotted; - font-family: sans-serif, serif; - color: #000; - margin-left: 5%; - margin-right: 5%; - margin-top: 4em; - margin-bottom: 2em; - padding: 1em; -} - - -/* Signature */ -.sigright { - margin-right: 2em; - text-align: right; -} - - -/* Poetry */ -.poem {display: inline-block; margin: auto; - line-height: 1.2em; text-align: left;} -.poem .stanza {margin: 1em auto;} - -.poem .i0 {display: block; margin-left: 0em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} - - - -@media screen - -{ - .half-title - { - margin: 6em 0; - } -} - - - -@media handheld - -{ - - body {margin: 0;} - - hr { - margin-top: .1em; - margin-bottom: .1em; - visibility: hidden; - color: white; - width: .01em; - display: none; - } - - blockquote {margin: 1.5em 3% 1.5em 3%;} - - .hang {margin: .5em 3% 2em 3%;} - - .transnote { - page-break-inside: avoid; - margin-left: 2%; - margin-right: 2%; - margin-top: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; - padding: .5em; - } - - .poem - { - display: block; - margin-left: 1.5em; - } - -} - - - -@media print, handheld - -{ - .half-title - { - page-break-before: always; - margin: 0; - padding-top: 6em; - } - - .chapter, .newpage {page-break-before: always;} - - .nobreak {page-break-before: avoid;} - - p { - margin-top: .5em; - text-align: justify; - margin-bottom: .25em; - } - - table { - width: 100%; - max-width: 100%; - } - - .pagenum {display: none;} - - .hideepub {visibility: hidden;} - -} - - - - </style> - -</head> - - - -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Memoirs of the Late War, Vol 1 (of 2), by -John Cooke and George Fitzclarence and John Moodie - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - -Title: Memoirs of the Late War, Vol 1 (of 2) - Comprising the Personal Narrative of Captain Cooke, of the - 43rd Regiment Light Infantry; the History of the Campaign - of 1809 in Portugal, by the Earl of Munster; and a Narrative - of the Campaign of 1814 in Holland, by Lieut. T. W. D. - Moodie, H. P. 21st FusileersVolume 1 (of 2) - -Author: John Cooke - George Fitzclarence - John Moodie - -Release Date: November 13, 2017 [EBook #55952] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MEMOIRS OF THE LATE WAR *** - - - - -Produced by Brian Coe, Larry B. Harrison, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - - - - - -<hr /> - -<div class="figcenter newpage hideepub"> - <img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="Cover" /> -</div> - - - - -<hr /> - -<div class="figcenter newpage"> - <img src="images/i_title.jpg" alt="title_page" /> -</div> - - - - -<hr /> - -<p class="half-title bold in0">MEMOIRS<br /> -OF<br /> -THE LATE WAR.<br /> -VOL. I.</p> - - - - -<hr /> - -<p class="newpage center bold in0"><span class="xlarge">The United Service Journal</span><br /> -AND<br /> -<span class="xlarge">NAVAL AND MILITARY MAGAZINE.</span></p> - - -<p>This new and interesting miscellany is regularly -published by Messrs. <span class="smcap">Colburn and Bentley</span> every -month, price 3s 6d. The following opinion will at once -demonstrate its claims on the attention of the public.</p> - -<blockquote> -<p>"The United Service Journal is confessedly one of the best -periodicals of its kind that have ever issued from the Public -Press. No Monthly Journal has yet appeared so devotedly -attached to the interests of the Army and Navy, or whose -claims to the patronage of both services are so strikingly conspicuous. -It is full of agreeable anecdote and useful information. -In its pages we find a faithful and most interesting record of -past achievements, whether on sea or land, diversified by many -characteristic traits of British heroism, and national gallantry, -from the lowest to the highest rank in the Service. New improvements -in gunnery, navigation, and the art of War, are -exposed to view with the commanding powers of a master hand, -while no subject is omitted which could by possibility involve -the honour and welfare of our Army and Navy. In fine, the -Journal affords us a correct summary of all changes in the -station of Regiments and Ships of the line, besides an authentic -return of the Promotions in the Red and the Blue. Independently -of the attractions it has for a military man, this periodical -may be read with much pleasure by a civilian, and we feel much -gratification in stating that it enjoys a very considerable patronage."—<i>Limerick -Chronicle.</i></p> -</blockquote> - -<p><span class="xlarge bold">∵</span> The above Periodical is regularly supplied by all -Booksellers and Newsvenders, and may also be forwarded -to friends and relatives abroad, by giving orders, and -making payment accordingly, and those who may be -desirous of obtaining it, are requested to give their -orders to any Bookseller or Newsman in their own -immediate neighbourhood.</p> - - -<p class="center p2t p5b in0"><span class="large">LONDON:</span><br /> -<span class="xsmall">G. SCHULZE, 13, POLAND STREET.</span></p> - - - - -<hr /> - -<h1><span class="xlarge">MEMOIRS</span><br /> -<span class="xsmall">OF</span><br /> -<span class="xlarge">THE LATE WAR:</span><br /> -<span class="xsmall">COMPRISING</span><br /> -<span class="small">THE PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF</span><br /> -<span class="xsmall">CAPTAIN COOKE,</span><br /> -<span class="large">OF THE 43rd REGIMENT LIGHT INFANTRY;<br /> -THE HISTORY OF THE CAMPAIGN OF 1809</span><br /> -<span class="small">IN PORTUGAL,</span><br /> -<span class="xsmall">BY THE EARL OF MUNSTER;</span><br /> -<span class="large">AND A NARRATIVE OF</span><br /> -<span class="xsmall">THE CAMPAIGN OF 1814 IN HOLLAND,</span><br /> -<span class="small">BY LIEUT. T. W. D. MOODIE, H. P. 21ST FUSILEERS.</span></h1> - -<p class="center bold in0"><span class="xlarge">IN TWO VOLUMES.<br /> -VOL. I.<br /> -<span class="vspace"> </span><br /> -LONDON:<br /> -HENRY COLBURN AND RICHARD BENTLEY,</span><br /> -NEW BURLINGTON STREET.<br /> -<span class="xlarge">1831.</span></p> - - - - - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">v</a></span></p> - -<hr /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2>CONTENTS<br /> -<span class="small">OF THE FIRST VOLUME.</span></h2> -</div> - -<hr class="style1" /> - -<p class="center">PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF CAPTAIN COOKE.</p> - -<hr class="style1" /> - -<table summary="Contents"> - <tr> - <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER I.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr" colspan="2">Page.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Initiation into military life—State of the militia force—Preparations - against the expected invasion from Boulogne—French - prisoners—An accident—The author occupies - a dull post near Grimsby—An enlivening incident - connected with the tender passion—Love cooled - by aqueous immersion, and rekindled by bright eyes—Earl - Fitzwilliam—Quarters in Bristol—A fatal affray—Clifton—The - author engaged in an affair of honour—Anecdote—The - author enters the line—Return of the - British army from the Peninsula—Severe drilling.</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER II.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Scene of embarkation for foreign service at Deal—A character—Force - and objects of the expedition—Arrival off - Walcheren—Siege and capture of Flushing—Disastrous - sickness among the troops—Evacuation of Walcheren, - with the author's adventure on the occasion—The return - to England—Napoleon's situation at that period.</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_34">34</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc" colspan="2"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">vi</a></span>CHAPTER III.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Progress of distemper on the re-landing of the regiment in - England—Change of quarters—Amusements—Colchester—An - eventful water party—The author obtains leave to - join the detachment proceeding to Portugal—A Review—A - tale of dental dislocation—Embarkation at Spithead—Landing - in Portugal—Incidents of an evening—Amusements - at Lisbon, and departure from that city.</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_54">54</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER IV.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">March to Santarem and Abrantes—Scenery and incidents at - Aronches—Junction with some other regiments—Military - scene in a wood—Anticipatory reflections on the fate - of some of the author's comrades—Quarters at Portalagre, - Castello de Vida and Marvao—Bridge of boats - across the Tagus—Contiguous scenery—Horrors of - travelling for invalids in the Portuguese cars.</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_71">71</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER V.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">March continued—Wild and striking aspect of the country—Excellence - of discipline—Camp followers—Spanish - peasant girls and men—Plain of Fuente de Guinaldo—Reflections - on a soldier's life—A vegetable conflagration—Village - of Martiago—Difficulties of the French—Arrival - in cantonments—The paymaster's peculiarities.</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_85">85</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER VI.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">The author is attacked by illness—Miseries of military - travelling in that condition—Quarters at Celorico—The - author's difficult recovery—Grievous sufferings endured - by the soldiers affected with fever in the sickly season—<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">vii</a></span>Death - of the Paymaster—The author rejoins his Division—Movements - of the French—A clerical case of disaster—The - contested mattress—A dance—Expensive - celebration of Christmas—Story of the German suttler—Village - and neighbourhood of Fuente de Guinaldo—Theatrical - representations by the English officers.</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_100">100</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER VII.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Preparations for the siege of Ciudad Rodrigo—A review - of the light Division by Lord Wellington—The fort and - convent of Saint Francisco taken—Storming the breach—Capture - of the place—Regulations for the prevention - of plunder—Disorders committed in the city—Remarks - and anecdotes connected with the siege—Burial of General - Craufurd—Removal of quarters to El Bodon—Vestiges - of the previous engagement near that place—Ciudad - Rodrigo consigned to a Spanish garrison—March towards - Badajoz—Castello de Vida—Fortress of Elvas—An accidental - acquaintance.</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_114">114</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER VIII.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">March from Elvas to Badajoz—Defences of that city—The - investment—A sortie—Operations of the batteries—Capture - of fort Picurina—Preparations for the grand assault—Advance - of the "forlorn hope"—Desperate encounter - at the breaches—Loss of life experienced by the British—The - mode of attack changed to escalade with success—The - city sacked by the British troops—Reflections respecting - the conduct of the siege—Incidental anecdotes.</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_133">133</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc" colspan="2"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">viii</a></span>CHAPTER IX.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Movements of the enemy after the fall of Badajoz—March - of the British light and third divisions towards Ciudad - Rodrigo—Dispositions for a fresh campaign—Excellent - marching arrangement of the light division—Occupation - of Salamanca by the British, and investment of the forts—Advance - of the French army—Skirmishing and cannonading—Surrender - of the forts by the French—English - quarters at Rueda, and amusements there—Movements - of the author's division—A breakfast party broken up—Personal - escape of the commander-in-chief—Active - manœuvres of the contending forces—Retrograde movement - of the British towards Salamanca—Relative position - of the two armies—Battle of Salamanca.</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_157">157</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER X.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Well-performed retreat of the French after the battle of - Salamanca—Progress of the English troops—Description - of the Spanish plains and towns—Custom of the Siesta—Movements - of Joseph Bonaparte—Bivouac at Olmedo, - and ball given there by Lord Wellington—Advance of - the British army, and entry into Valladolid—A swimming - adventure—Illness of the author, and his removal to the - town of Cuellar—Timorous conduct of the Portuguese - dragoons—The English army enters Madrid—Incidents - attending the author's further removal as an invalid to - Salamanca—General position of affairs on the Continent—Operations - of Sir R. Hill—Re-capture of Valladolid—Unsuccessful - siege of Burgos—Various movements of - the forces.</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_191">191</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc" colspan="2"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">ix</a></span>CHAPTER XI.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">The author becomes convalescent, and proceeds to rejoin - the army—Guadarama mountains—Park and Palace of - the Escurial—An enthusiastic native—A Spanish bandit—British - quarters in Madrid, and description of the - city—English theatricals—Renewed activity of the contending - armies—The British troops evacuate Madrid—Romantic - attachments—Alba de Tormes—Re-occupation - of Salamanca—Military discomforts—Skirmishing affairs—The - French obliged to desist from pursuit through - fatigue—Various positions of the British forces during - the winter of 1812–13. </td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_211">211</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER XII.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">The light Division reviewed by the Commander-in-chief—Reinforcements - from England—The army again in - motion—Encampment of the light division between Rodrigo - and Salamanca—The German hussars—March to - Salamanca, the French retreating—Scene in the Cathedral - at Salamanca—Crossing the Tormes, and progress - of the march—Passage of the Esla—Affair at Toro with - the French heavy horse—Concentration of the whole - army, and march through Valencia towards Burgos—An - accommodating priest—Capture of French baggage - and prisoners—Details of the battle of Vittoria.</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_242">242</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER XIII.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Pursuit of the enemy after the battle of Vittoria—Curious - spectacle and adventure in a French bivouac—Advance - towards Pampeluna, and repulse of the French rear-guard—Retreat - of the main body of the enemy into - <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">x–xii</a></span>France—Reflections on the policy of King Joseph—Change - of the British route, and encampment at Sanguessa—A - casual dance—Return to Pampeluna—Expulsion - of the French from the valley of Bastan—The - Basque peasantry—Town of Bera—Position for covering - Pampeluna and St. Sebastian—Preparations for the - attack of the latter place—The command of the French - assumed by the Duke of Dalmatia—A family scene—Position - of the French army.</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_274">274</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER XIV.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Offensive operations of the Duke of Dalmatia—Partial retrogression - of the British—Ill success in the storming - of the breaches at St. Sebastian—Movements of the - various divisions—Great extent of the British line along - the Pyrenees—Interesting domestic scene attending the - departure of the Author's Division from the town of - Bera—Battle of Pampeluna—Embarrassing situation of - the light division through an accidental separation from - the army—Successes obtained over the French, and their - consequent retreat—Active movements, and capture of - the enemy's baggage—A trait of character—Continued - advantages gained over the French, who are driven - beyond the Pyrenees.</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_300">300</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - - - - -<hr /> - -<p class="half-title bold in0">PERSONAL NARRATIVE<br /> -OF<br /> -CAPTAIN COOKE.</p> - - - - -<hr /> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">1</a></span></p> - -<p class="newpage center bold in0"><span class="large">MEMOIRS</span><br /> -<span class="small">OF</span><br /> -<span class="large">CAPTAIN COOKE.</span></p> - - -<hr class="style1" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER I.</h2> -</div> - -<blockquote> -<p class="hang">Initiation into military life—State of the militia force—Preparations -against the expected invasion from Boulogne—French -prisoners—An accident—The author occupies a dull post -near Grimsby—An enlivening incident connected with the -tender passion—Love cooled by aqueous immersion, and rekindled -by bright eyes—Earl Fitzwilliam—Quarters in Bristol—A -fatal affray—Clifton—The author engaged in an affair -of honour—Anecdote—The author enters the line—Return of -the British army from the Peninsula—Severe drilling.</p> -</blockquote> - - -<p>On the 24th of January, 1805, I made my <i>début</i> -on the parade as ensign in the first West York, -powdered and equipped in full uniform, with an -artificial tail of considerable length tied round my -neck, a cocked hat square to the front and a -sword five inches shorter than the regulation,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">2</a></span> -made in proportion to my height, being only four -feet eleven inches, and within one month of -attaining my fourteenth year.</p> - -<p>My diminutive figure soon attracted the attention -of the leading company of the regiment, -composed of gigantic Yorkshire grenadiers<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor"><sup>1</sup></a>, -and excited so much merriment among them, -and so encreased my previous confusion, that -my eyes became dim and my feet seemed scarcely -to touch the ground. However, some kind expressions -from the officers who came forward -and surrounded me, and their gay appearance -soon dispelled my inquietude.</p> - -<p>A short time proved sufficient to instruct me -in the duties required; and the varied amusements -caused the early months of my career to -glide rapidly on. Our uniform was plain, faced -with green, but suddenly altered owing to an -officer of expensive habits, who ordered a new -coat to be made and covered with a profusion of -gold lace, in which he appeared at the mess table, -and so captivated his companions by his rich display, -that a unanimous burst of admiration broke -forth. Although the lieutenant colonel was as -much averse from any thing of the sort as it was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">3</a></span> -possible for any one to be, the new pattern -was carried by acclamation, and a tacit consent -wrung from the commanding officer, intermixed -with his hearty execrations. Frequently, after the -alteration, he used to wear his old coat at the -mess table by way of a treat, when, to his extreme -mortification, the very officer who caused the -change would throw out hints about officers -being unregimentally dressed.</p> - -<p>Such was the ingenuity of this individual, -that on being refused leave of absence, he waited -personally on a general, and afterwards declared -that he had represented the necessity of his appearance -at home in such moving words, that he -not only obtained double the time originally asked -for, but also drew tears of sympathy from the -general's eyes.</p> - -<p>In the early part of the summer, General Sir -John Moore inspected us on our parade ground, -and was pleased to pass his high encomiums on -the very fine appearance and steadiness of the -men while under arms. Indeed the militia at -large were equal to the line<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor"><sup>2</sup></a>, in the execution of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">4</a></span> -their evolutions and discipline, and were well -adapted for the defence of their native shores, -at this epoch threatened with invasion by the -French. Had their services been required to -repel such an aggression,—led on by experienced -generals, without doubt they would have proved -themselves equal to cope with any troops in the -world; and those who had an opportunity of -judging at that time, will, I am confident, fully -coincide with me and join in just admiration -at the high state of perfection that national force -had been brought to.</p> - -<p>During the summer the troops in the numerous -towns and camps in Kent were reviewed. Our -brigade left Ashford and joined two battalions -of the rifle corps, 95th<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor"><sup>3</sup></a>, at Bradbourne Lees and -manœuvred before the Duke of York. The 43rd -and 52nd light infantry regiments were organised -under the immediate superintendence of Sir John -Moore<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor"><sup>4</sup></a> (assisted by Major General McKenzie) -at Hythe, and Shorncliff camp, in the most<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">5</a></span> -exemplary manner. Those corps were indeed the -admiration of all, for their discipline, and the -rapidity of their light movements, all of which being -executed on the moveable pivot, by divisions, -or sections, formed columns, squares, lines, and -echelon, without a halt, by merely marking -time.</p> - -<p>The moveable pivot preserved a regular -cadence, handsome to the sight, and of great -utility. In course of time these useful evolutions -extended throughout the army, and, for aught -I know, are still called "<span class="smcap">new!</span>" with perhaps a -few alterations.</p> - -<p>The officers of these regiments wore a neat -soldier-like uniform of scarlet, facings white and -buff, with a pair of small silver epaulettes; and -such was the similarity of costume of the two corps, -that, at a short distance, it was hardly possible -to distinguish one from the other; and, when -formed in a line on the green sod at Shorncliff, -they presented a fine coup d'œil. The rifle -corps wore dark green with black lace, helmets -and long green feathers<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor"><sup>5</sup></a>.</p> - -<p>It is a strange coincidence, that these corps<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">6</a></span> -should have been so near each other, (almost -within sight of Napoleon's grand camp at -Boulogne) for the purpose of joining their -efforts to repel the threatened attack on the coast, -and that, in after years, they should be united -in a series of brilliant victories gained over the -French legions, during a period of service, -which, in future ages, will create wonder at the extraordinary -rise and fall of Napoleon in the -centre of civilised Europe; whose legions -like an overwhelming lava spread death -and destruction far and wide; drove all nature -into mourning, and converted Europe into an -hospital.</p> - -<p>Napoleon at this period had formed at -Boulogne and its vicinity a powerful army, -which he hoped to be enabled to throw across -the channel by the end of August and effect a -landing in England under the protection of the -combined French and Spanish fleets, commanded -by Admiral Villeneuve, who was expected from the -West Indies about that time to concentrate the -different fleets in the French and Spanish ports, to -be composed of sixty ships of war destined to -cover the numerous flotilla which was also to be -crowded with soldiers inured to war.</p> - -<p>Every effort on the part of this country was -made to frustrate such a design. Martello<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">7</a></span> -towers had been erected along the coast of Kent -at certain distances, and thousands of navigators -and soldiers were hard at work cutting -the military canal twenty yards wide across -Romney Marsh. Beacons were placed on the -tops of the highest hills, to light up, and alarm -the country in case of a sudden descent of the -enemy. Fortunately however the hostile movements -of the Austrians obliged Napoleon to -break up his camp at Boulogne, and march to -oppose them. The latter part of this year produced -extraordinary events; Napoleon was -again overwhelming the continent by his military -achievements, and Nelson in a like manner, -by his naval exploits, was clearing all before -him. These great commanders seemed striving -to outvie each other on their peculiar elements, -and each won a great battle<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor"><sup>6</sup></a>, and within a few -months of each other.</p> - -<p>During the autumn, the regiment to which I -belonged marched to Chelmsford in Essex, and -was stationed there a few weeks with other corps, -previously to our proceeding to Norman Cross for -the purpose of guarding some thousands of unhappy -Frenchmen, cooped up at that place, and -clothed in yellow (the prison dress) to expiate<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">8</a></span> -their revolutionary sins by many years' captivity -and exile in a loathsome prison, cut off -from their relatives and friends.</p> - -<p>Their necessities forced them to exert their -ingenuity in making various curious toys, which -they disposed of at a very low rate to enable -them to procure a few comforts, to alleviate -their extreme wretchedness, which was beyond -description; for want of clothes many of them -suffered every privation rather than be clad in a -conspicuous and humiliating colour; others were -in rags and almost in a state of nudity, having -lost their all by gambling; and to so great an -extent did the vice grow, that many would even -stake their rations, and every trifle given to -them by strangers, until, by their half famished -looks, they bore a resemblance to skeletons.</p> - -<p>The exterior of the prison was enclosed by -strong wooden railings, as well as the four -interior quadrangles, in the centre of which stood -a circular block house bristled with three pounders -on swivels, their muzzles peeping out of square -apertures (similar to the ports of a ship) to play -on the prisoners in case of their becoming refractory. -Generals Boyer and Rochambeau were, -for some reason or other, in close confinement; -one of them played and sang most delightfully on -the guitar.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">9</a></span></p> - -<p>The barracks stood about east and west, occupied -by two regiments, with two field pieces -always placed at the gates, in readiness to fire -if necessary. The high north road ran within -about two hundred yards of the west barrack. -A troop of the 7th light dragoons<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor"><sup>7</sup></a> were quartered -near at hand to pursue those Frenchmen who -might attempt to effect their escape, which many -accomplished by the utmost danger, and the -most unaccountable perseverance; sometimes -by working under ground for months, to excavate -a way out of prison. One man, absolutely -wrapped in straw bands, dropped himself into a -night cart, (which he was aware would be -drawn away that night) and he was pitched out -with the soil at the usual place on the slope of a -hill; but, in his haste to extricate himself, he was -discovered, and brought back half suffocated.</p> - -<p>Many of the poor prisoners gave lessons in -fencing; and while I was once displaying the proficiency -I had made in that art to an amateur by -placing him in a defensive position to ward off my -rapid attack, he unfortunately guided the point of -my cane up his own nostrils which caused him -forthwith to ungrasp his sword, and apply both -hands to the wounded part. Being much alarmed at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">10</a></span> -the accident, I stood at a respectful distance -from my friend, until the pain had subsided; -fearing that, under such torment, he might take -signal vengeance on my slender frame.</p> - -<p>The winter passed heavily enough at this -dull spot, and without doubt the best hour of the -day was that when the drum struck up the -"Roast Beef of old England," the certain announcement -of a well supplied board, covered -with massive plate, and groaning under the -weight of the choicest viands the season afforded.</p> - -<p>Early in the spring the long wished for -<i>route</i> arrived for Hull in Yorkshire. When we were -on the march through Lincolnshire, a sudden -thunder storm came on, accompanied by heavy -rain, and we saw a poor girl at work in an -adjoining field; but, before she was able to gain -a place of shelter from the rain, a flash of lightning -struck her on the forehead and killed her on the -spot. Her lifeless body was conveyed to the -nearest town, to her unhappy relatives. After the -expiration of a few days we arrived at Barton, -where we crossed the Humber (seven miles down -the river) in the regular passage-boats to the -place of our destination, having experienced the -usual comforts of a march in England: such as -good breakfasts, dinners, and a comfortable -feather bed every night.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">11</a></span></p> - -<p>Soon after our arrival a detachment was ordered -to take charge of some batteries on the right -bank of the Humber in Lincolnshire, no great -distance from Grimsby; and, for the good of my -morals, I was selected for that duty, it being -considered by excellent judges that so populous -a town as Hull afforded too many temptations -for one so young as myself. Every movement -to me was a source of pleasure; already my new -abode was anticipated, and some highly romantic -spot pictured to my imagination. A fancied -governor too, surrounded by the inhabitants of -the adjacent country looking up with that respect -so flattering to one placed in so responsible a -situation!</p> - -<p>The hour of my departure was hailed with joy, -and I eagerly jumped on board a small packet -procured for the transport of myself and party. -The sails being spread out, I felt a secret wish -that my brother and another officer had not been -on board, so that I might have entered into my -important avocations without further delay. We -had glided a short way on our course, when the -wind changed, and became adverse, and, after a -few tacks, I lost my vivacity, my countenance -turned pale, and my brother remarked that I -was sea-sick. "How can that be," faintly replied -I, "when we are only in a river;" although it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">12</a></span> -must be acknowledged that, owing to its proximity -to the sea, the water was sufficiently agitated -to cause some derangement in the stomach of a -landsman.</p> - -<p>At the expiration of a few hours' tossing, we -anchored off a solitary habitation, three sides of -which were encompassed by a dreary marsh of -considerable extent, intersected with dykes. On -landing, my companions surveyed the surrounding -prospect, casting significant looks towards each -other; and a half stifled laugh followed at my -dejected amazement, as I contemplated the prospect -before me, wondering how the coming six months -were to be employed, or myself to be amused, -in this swamp, whitened by innumerable flocks -of sea gulls. On entering the boat house I sat -down with little appetite to partake of some eggs -and bacon, that being the best fare to be procured. -My companions made a hearty meal, and, having -swallowed a couple of tumblers of brandy and -water, took their departure with a fair wind, -leaving me to make the best of my way, over -a pathless waste, in the direction of a small -wooden building rearing its chimnies just above -an earth entrenchment decorated by four heavy -cannons mounted <i>en barbette</i>, and a bare pole -in the centre by way of a flag staff. The soldiers -preceding me were a short way in front. In vain<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">13</a></span> -I strained my eyes in search of a second habitation, -to cheer this monotonous scene; night -was fast drawing to a close, and the disagreeable -Humber and its muddy banks disappearing from -my view, amidst a drizzling rain.</p> - -<p>On entering the room allotted for my use, I -seated myself on my baggage in no very cheerful -mood, waiting the delivery of coals and candles, -while my servant was busily employed mopping -the floor. In the morning the men were placed -at the guns, armed with rammers and handspikes, -to learn to load, elevate, and traverse, so as to fire -in case any French ships might enter the river, -to disturb the whalers anchored off Hull.</p> - -<p>A printed board of orders nailed to the wall at -the extremity of my room shewed me the necessity -of visiting another battery under my -charge (at stated periods) distant six miles up the -river. I was also informed that I had a horse -at my service; but, when the animal was brought -forward, all hopes of a ride vanished, he proving -lame of a leg, very old, and his coat sticking up -like the bristles of a porcupine.</p> - -<p>My instructions also specified that every Sunday -the detachment was to attend divine service, at a -church situated inland on a gentle rise, shrouded -by trees, about two miles from the battery, which -was to be left in charge of a corporal's guard.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">14</a></span></p> - -<p>The sixth day happened to be the sabbath; the -weather was propitious. I therefore decorated -myself in hopes of getting a glimpse of some -flowing drapery at the distant hamlet. On our -arrival the bell was tolling, and a few infirm individuals -were creeping into the old church. As -the service had not begun, I squatted myself on a -hay-cock—for the grass of this church yard was -turned to account, and, as far as I could judge, -was as fine a crop as any around.</p> - -<p>At length the bell ceased to reverberate, and I -was about to enter the decayed doors of the -church, when on raising my eyes I beheld a young -lady of lovely face and form, stationary, with one -foot placed on the top of the style (leading into -the church-yard) and with her eyes apparently fixed -in the direction of where I stood. She evinced an -animation, which I shall long remember; for my -heart began to beat with the most joyful anticipations. -She passed close to me, while I remained -fixed, and gazing on her with transported admiration. -I soon followed, and was placed in -a pew exactly opposite to her. Her raven tresses -hung carelessly from under a little blue silk hat. -Her cheeks vied with the roses, and the lustre of -her sparkling black eyes pierced the inmost recesses -of my beating heart. Before the service -was concluded, we were both holding down our<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">15</a></span> -heads laughing; and the only excuse for such indecorous -conduct, (if any can be offered), was our -youth—for she was only sixteen, and I was half a -year younger.</p> - -<p>Two days after, I wandered towards the village; -the peasants had gone forth to their daily labour. -On looking about, I could see but one house likely -to contain the object of my secret regard. It was -a large old building encompassed by an extensive -field in the shape of a park. However, I fancied -this was not her dwelling, as she had entered the -church yard from quite a contrary direction. -Having wandered some time without encountering a -single person of whom I could make any inquiries, -I at last felt convinced that the fair object of my -search had come from a distant village, and that I -should not again behold her fascinating smiles.</p> - -<p>In retracing my steps from thence, the marsh became -doubly odious to my sight; however, on the -following Sunday, I placed myself on the same -spot in the church yard, with my eyes steadfastly -fixed on the style. The bell ceased to toll, the -church doors closed, the service had begun, but -my <i>belle</i> did not appear; and I now in real earnest -began to consider myself a perfect exile, not -having exchanged a syllable with any one save my -servant (or when giving some trifling orders) for -thirteen days. The next morning I started on foot<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">16</a></span> -to visit the other fort (mounting two guns, with a -garrison of one serjeant, a gunner, and fourteen -men,) to be assured that the lame horse had -safely carried their provisions, and to see that the -defences had not been washed away during the -last spring tide. After a toilsome walk of no inconsiderable -distance, along a dyke, overrun with -long grass nearly up to my middle, I returned, -well tired, and perfectly cooled in my governorship.</p> - -<p>The next day I made towards the hamlet, being -determined to summon up resolution, and make -inquiries at some cottage, or to endeavour to find -out from whence came the sole object of my -thoughts. On my accosting an old woman, who -very civilly answered all my inquiries, she communicated -that the young lady was a gentleman farmer's -daughter; expatiating upon her beauty and -amiability, and concluded by remarking, that she -supposed by this time she must have returned to -school beyond Lincoln, as she had not seen her -for some days. She then informed me that, when -at home, the young lady resided in the large mansion -already described. Having now gained the -long wished information, I wandered towards -the spot, and espied a figure clad in white standing -at the door of a cottage, at no great distance -from the large house.</p> - -<p>I instantly made my way across the field, full of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">17</a></span> -doubts and fears, and when, within a short distance, -I could distinguish the same figure, and the -charming countenance I was in quest of,—I hesitated, -being fearful that the object of my search -might vanish. At length with a palpitating -heart, and extremely confused, I found myself -opposite the <i>brunette</i>. I attempted to speak, -but, alas! my words were unintelligible; she -smiled, and I was rooted to the spot,—she retreated -backwards; her eyes, acting like load -stars, drew me forward. I stumbled over the doorsill, -and found myself in a small room in the interior -of the cottage. At the extremity of it -sat an ancient dame at her spinning wheel, who, -looking through her spectacles at me, regarded -so small a figure, in a rich scarlet uniform, with a -degree of good-natured surprise.</p> - -<p>Some moments elapsed before any one of this -trio broke silence. My <i>incognita</i> blushed and cast -the kindest regards towards her old nurse, who -looked alternately towards us for some explanation; -but, finding little chance of any from our confusion, -she broke the awkward silence by requesting to -know my pleasure? In reply, I stammered out, -that I had lost my way; she instantly arose, and -offered the assistance of her son, to conduct me -into the right road; but my <i>chère amie</i> now found -her voice, and stopped her short, by offering her<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">18</a></span> -services to point out the way for me herself; and, -almost in the same breath, asked me if I did not -feel considerably fatigued after so long a walk? -Then, entering into conversation, the hours flew -away imperceptibly, until the old dame reminded -her of her unusually long absence from -home, which might induce her mamma to send -some one in search of her; we thereupon parted -seemingly equally pleased with each other, and -with an agreement to continue our acquaintance. -To my eyes the marsh now no longer presented a -dreary waste; my heart was as light as a feather; -I bounded over planks and ditches, for hedges -there were none. Even the odious twenty-four -pounders I could have turned to use, by loading -them up to the muzzles with grape shot, against -all pirates or rivals; and I do verily believe that -had it not been for the presence of an old steady -gunner, I should really have fired a salute on the -occasion.</p> - -<p>I ordered tea to be prepared, and my fire made -up. I then opened a box filled with books that -day forwarded to me from Hull with a note from -my brother, saying, that according to my wishes -he had sent some novels, and also a few volumes -of the <i>Roman History</i>, with his strict injunctions -not to neglect the perusal of the latter in particular.</p> - -<p>The first book I extracted was a deep romance;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">19</a></span> -and the pages were eagerly devoured with all -those transports so natural to youthful minds. It -was soon conveyed for the perusal of my <i>chère -amie</i>; for in truth the <i>Roman History</i> had never -entered my head.</p> - -<p>A fresh supply being soon necessary, the box -was returned, and the history kept as a reserve, -and, like many other reserves, it was never brought -into action. After a short acquaintance, my little -<i>belle</i> intimated to me, that I might expect an -invitation when her papa (who abominated the red -coats, great and small) should make his annual -excursion. It struck me that a dark lantern -might be of great utility during such parties as I -might chance to attend. I therefore begged of -my brother that one might be purchased for me, -which was accordingly done, although such a request -somewhat excited his surprise; however, on -reflection, the extensive prospect he had previously -surveyed the day he conducted me to my lonely -abode, soon convinced him that a nightly tramp -would be out of the question, and he set my request -down to the effect of the romances I had -recently perused. At length the time of papa's -departure was announced to me, with an invitation -from mamma to take tea with her: and, on the -appointed night, having secured my barrack room -door, I walked a short distance, and turned my<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">20</a></span> -dark lantern, to enable me to explore my way -over a path intersected by numerous ditches.</p> - -<p>On my arrival near the gate at the end of an -enclosure, leading to the house, the rays of my -lantern fell on a figure all in white. I made a -sudden stop, and opened my eyes to their full -extent, to satisfy myself what so strange an appearance -could be, so late, and at so lonely a spot; -for various confused ideas crossed my mind, my -fancy was worked up to the highest state of -excitement, and a cold chill ran through my veins,—when -suddenly the ground gave way, and I was -immersed above my middle in water in a ditch, -the edge of which had given way. During my -alarm, while I was endeavouring to extricate myself -from my awkward situation, the figure moved -towards me and I scrambled out of the ditch, -covered with duck weed. As a last resort I -summoned up my remaining courage, and demanded -in a loud voice, or rather screech, "What are -you?" when a plaintive voice answered, "It is -I." and the speaker instantly vanished.</p> - -<p>After looking cautiously around, in apprehension -of making another false step and getting a -second ducking, I explored my way with considerable -difficulty to the house, absolutely following -the direction of the supposed phantom. -There I found my new friend waiting for me at the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">21</a></span> -door much alarmed, who informed me she had -seen the light of my lantern gradually approaching, -and had ventured to meet me; but the hearing -the souse, and such a strange salute in total -darkness, had so terrified her, that a hasty -flight had been the consequence.</p> - -<p>Her mamma had waited tea some time, and on -entering the room I perceived that she was in full -dress and highly rouged; I was introduced to her, -wet through, and covered with a green weed, like -some sea monster. She laughed immoderately. -What was to be done? A change was necessary: -the husband's clothes would not do. A huge -country girl being called in, while divesting me of -my coat, suggested that I should be attired in one -of her young lady's dresses. This proposal -afforded mamma much diversion, who agreed -to the proposal, and I was led into the kitchen, -to a rousing wood fire, blazing on the hearth, -under a spacious chimney. Here I was unceremoniously -stripped by the maid, who appropriated -so much time to the adjustment of my female attire, -that her <i>jeune maîtresse</i> demanded the reason -of my person being kept so long in custody by this -Amazonian wench. My toilette being arranged, -tea and coffee were served up, and the time passed -in the most agreeable conversation. The night -had far advanced, when an unexpected rapping<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">22</a></span> -was heard, with the butt end of a riding whip, -heavily applied to the oaken doors, while a hoarse -voice demanded admittance in the well known -key of papa: but to my ears the notes were like -the roaring of a lion. All lights were instantly extinguished, -and the back door was thrown open, out -of which I was led into a poultry yard, and from -thence into a loft, where, seating myself on a truss -of hay, I waited in much suspense, while the -heavy bars were removed from the gate of the -farm yard, to admit the squire and his horse. His -gruff voice soon died away; the gates were again -closed and all became quiet. Shortly afterwards a -rustling noise and gentle footsteps struck on my -ear, when my <i>belle</i> again made her appearance accompanied -by the before mentioned Amazonian -<i>fille de chambre</i>, with my dried <i>paraphernalia</i> -under her arm.</p> - -<p>Meanwhile mamma was left to conduct her -bloated spouse grunting to bed, quite overcome, -after his devotions to Bacchus and the malt tub. -Soon after I had assumed the attire of my own -sex, the crowing of the feathered tribe announced -the time for my departure, when, bidding tender -adieus, I rapidly stole across the meadow, and just -before the sun arose, I found myself once more -within my camp bed—<i>minus</i> my dark lantern.</p> - -<p>I often bended my steps during these May days<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">23</a></span> -towards the peaceful hamlet far removed from any -neighbouring village, from whence a green sod, -hedged on each side, was the sole outlet or vestige -of a road winding into the interior, through a rich -pasturage country; it was in these rural shades, -and unbeaten tracks, that my blooming companion -and I rambled at large, and, when fatigued, her old -nurse would place before us her best China service, -and seem to participate in our happiness. The -summer months flew away, and my indescribable -departure was announced. I presented the hospitable -old dame with a new pair of spectacles, and -she wiped her eyes. The Yorkshire-men buckled -on their knapsacks, the wind was fair, the bark cut -through the water, the old church vanished from -my sight, and I again landed at the busy and -trafficing town of Hull.</p> - -<p>Here the merchants entertained the military -with turtle, and such feasts as their rapidly -accumulated wealth enabled them to spread out -in gorgeous abundance. The card parties were -crowded to excess, and very high stakes played -for; more particularly as many of the officers -were possessed of large landed property, and also -displayed most splendid equipages.</p> - -<p>The venerable Earl Fitzwilliam, who was the -Colonel of the regiment, was there, and when I -was introduced to him, he asked me whether I<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">24</a></span> -did not find the colours very heavy in my hands? -My face instantly coloured up; the fact was, I had -been blown down, colours and all, while at a field -day at Ashford in Kent. The amiable nobleman, -with his characteristic kindness, took care that I -should see my name in the next gazette as a -Lieutenant.</p> - -<p>After a very short stay at Hull, we were -ordered to Whitby, Burlington, and Scarboro', -situated on the sea coast. I had the good fortune -to march to the latter town, with which I was -much struck on entering. It is compact, and -situated in a valley, with the fine old castle rising -abruptly and commanding a bird's eye view of the -town, and the beautiful and extensive sands, -which become so hard, that at low water horse -racing used to take place, and with great safety, as -there is hardly a pebble to be seen.</p> - -<p>This was a grand place of resort, where the -healthy dames and their daughters from the -North, came to sip the spa, to flounder in the sea, -to see and be seen, and to listen to the mild sayings -of strangers from the south, while hurrying -down fifty couple at Donna's rooms, with rosy -cheeks, and hair somewhat out of curl. One whole -year passed at this place in a continual round of -amusements, such as balls, parties, picnic -excursions, gay promenades, and horse-racing.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">25</a></span> -The band was magnificently attired in green and -gold; in fact, Earl Fitzwilliam gave up the whole -or the greater part of his pay for the benefit of -the regiment.—The volunteering into the line -continued from time to time; the greater portion -of the men, being of large stature, entered the -foot guards, the artillery, and marines.</p> - -<p>The <i>route</i> at length arrived; and on the morning -of our departure the band struck up, the bass drum -beating the marching time, a signal for windows -to be hastily thrown open by many fair ladies <i>en -déshabille</i>, waving their white handkerchiefs and -delicate hands, until a wind of the road concealed -them from our admiration. The sun shone brightly, -and, as we cast a lingering look behind, the venerable -white turrets of the castle and the sparkling -blue sea foaming at its base receded from our -view. We had proceeded about ten miles over -the bare wold, when, our appetites becoming -rather keen from the sea breezes, we began to cast -our longing eyes towards a small sequestered -village, surrounded by stone walls, and a few -scattered trees, which proved a welcome sight. -On entering, we drew up opposite a small rustic -inn, for the purpose of taking breakfast:—the -chubby cherry-cheeked maids flocked around us, -and became so elated at the sounds of the music, -and at the sight of the red coats, that in their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">26</a></span> -hurry to lay before us such provisions as the place -afforded, they pushed and jostled their rustic -swains out of their way, who, while resting on -their pitchforks looked uneasy, as if doubting for -the first time in their lives the true constancy of -their sweethearts.</p> - -<p>After partaking of a most excellent breakfast, -we resumed our road, and at the expiration of -three days again entered Hull, when we soon -received an order to proceed to Bristol; we -passed through Beverley to Hull, then to Doncaster, -Birmingham, Derby, Litchfield, Gloucester, -and Worcester, besides many towns of smaller note -interspersed through this highly cultivated country. -Having accomplished a march of three hundred -miles, we reached Bristol. While passing through a -town, an old woman perceived the officer of the light -company with a knapsack on his back: she hobbled -towards him, and addressed him by the familiar -appellation of "Sergeant;" he answered with a -smile, "My good old lady, serjeants do not -carry knapsacks in this regiment," at the same -time casting a glance towards a few of that rank -who had left theirs on the baggage waggons:—the -officer loaded himself in this way for the comfort -of a speedy change, on the march during wet -weather. A number of French prisoners were -confined at Stapleton prison, about five miles from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">27</a></span> -Bristol. This duty we found unpleasant, having -to tramp over a dirty road in the winter, in white -kerseymere breeches, for the purpose of mounting -guard. A most fatal affray happened here betwixt -four French prisoners, owing to a dispute which -arose out of a trifling gambling transaction. The -two principals first engaged, having split a scissars -into two parts and tied the points to the end of -canes, with which they fought, one was soon -killed, the seconds then engaged, when another -fell mortally wounded; in fact, both the friends on -one side fell.</p> - -<p>We frequently visited the village of Clifton -within a mile of Bristol. It is beautifully situated, -overlooking the river Avon, which romantically -winds at the base of steep declivities, decorated -with overhanging shrubs.—The promenades -and balls were very fashionably attended, and it -was surprising to observe the superiority of manners, -costume, and dancing, compared with those of -the company attending the assemblies at Bristol.</p> - -<p>Early in the summer of 1808, we again moved, -and passed through the counties of Somerset -and Devon to Plymouth, there to do duty over -the arsenals and more French prisoners.</p> - -<p>I had now reached my seventeenth year. One -evening while rambling about, I accidentally met -an officer, and entered into conversation with him,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">28</a></span> -when I was not a little surprised at his making -use of my elder brother's name, in no very complimentary -strain, and, as I was aware that such -sentiments could not be used unintentionally by -a man of the world, I made a suitable retort, and -left him. On reaching my brother's barrack -room which was adjacent to mine, I found him -poring over a volume of Shakspeare, with his -usual <i>theatrical</i> delight, and, not wishing to disturb -his transporting meditations, I bade him -good night and retired to my bed, having given -my servant directions to call me the next morning -early, which being duly executed, I sent a friend -with a message to the officer already alluded to, -which he instantly accepted; but, as the regiment -was under arms much earlier than usual, to fire -ball cartridge at a target, it was agreed that we -should manage to get leave with our seconds, and -fall out one at a time, so as not to create any suspicion -of our intentions.</p> - -<p>Our uniforms having been thrown aside, four -of us proceeded some distance before we could -find a spot to suit our purpose. The usual -distance being measured, we tossed up for -sides. I lost, and stood with my face towards -the sun, as no other level spot could be found -at hand. Having taken our ground, the usual -distance (by word), we both fired without<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">29</a></span> -effect: the pistols being re-loaded, a second discharge -was about to take place, when my adversary -addressed me by my Christian name, and -said he wished the affair adjusted, so that all that -had passed between us should be forgotten, and -that we might be the same good friends as heretofore,—the -seconds then interfered, and all was -amicably adjusted<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor"><sup>8</sup></a>.</p> - -<p>A general order appeared about this period, -exploding hair-powder and tails throughout the -army. But, previously to its coming out, a most -ludicrous occurrence happened. An officer who -possessed a very good figure and a fine head of -hair, had shown a great antipathy against wearing -powder, so much so, that it was only by a repetition -of orders, that he could be induced to use the -puff, and even then it was so sparingly put on his -crown, as to be scarcely visible. One morning -as usual he appeared on the parade, with his -head unwhitened; the captain of his company not -a little roused, at having so frequently reminded -him of his neglect of duty, again remarked that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">30</a></span> -he was without powder; when he carelessly answered, -that he supposed a puff of wind must -have blown it out; which so incensed the captain -that he forthwith reported the circumstance. -The whole of the officers being assembled to the -front, the culprit patiently heard the accusation -against him, and as coolly received the slight -reprimand from the commanding officer, who -had no sooner finished what he had to say than -the accused officer fixed his eyes steadily on his -captain, and, without uttering a syllable lifted his -cap slowly from his head at arm's length, showing -a head as white as snow, while his accuser -stood petrified and confounded, to the no small -amusement of the surprised circle who burst into -an unrestrained laugh, joined in by the senior -officers. The fact was, that the rear of the company -was close to the soldiers' barrack, and, while -the captain was in the act of reporting his junior -officer, the latter had run into one of the men's -rooms, seized a flour tub (used by the soldiers) -and, with its contents, had covered his head, -leaving the side locks untouched as before.</p> - -<p>About this time, the expedition to Portugal -put into Plymouth, and as there appeared some -probability of an opening for the British army -on terra firma, I felt an anxiety to enter the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">31</a></span> -line. A commission was promised me in a -light infantry regiment, which I soon after -obtained; at this time Plymouth was crowded -by Portuguese officers, that had fled from -their native country with the royal family of -Portugal, who had departed for the <i>New World</i>. -Portugal being cleared of the <i>French</i> and <i>Spanish -invaders</i>, the British entered Spain to threaten -the right flank of the French army under -Napoleon, in the depth of winter, which ended -by Sir John Moore being killed, and the whole -of the English army re-embarking at Corunna. -The different regiments landed in England -in the most deplorable condition, having been -overtaken by a tempest, which had scattered -them over the face of the waters.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants of Plymouth received these -troops with open arms, and threw wide their -doors for the benefit of the suffering officers; -they watched over their sick beds in the most -assiduous manner, and supplied them gratis -with every comfort; such as shirts and shoes, -and crowned all this magnanimous hospitality, -by advancing money to many of the convalescent -officers to enable them to reach their far distant -homes, in England, Ireland, and Scotland. -But how different was the treatment of the army -(who had freed Portugal) elsewhere! A young<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">32</a></span> -and handsome officer had landed at another -port in a wretched state, bare-footed, his feet -tormented with gravel, suffering from a fever, and -supporting himself against a wall: then, creeping -along in an exhausted state, he was unnoticed by -the passers by, until a sailor said, "Why, soldier -officer, you are aground, come lay hold of my -arm: I will take care of you."</p> - -<p>In March<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor"><sup>9</sup></a> 1809, I obtained my ensigncy -in the line, and proceeded to Colchester to join -the second battalion of the 43rd light infantry. -When an officer entered this corps it was an -invariable custom to send him to drill with a -squad, composed of peasants from the plough tail, -or other raw recruits, first learning the facings, -marching, and companies' evolutions. That being -completed, the officer put on cross belts and pouch,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">33</a></span> -and learned the firelock exercise; then again -he marched with the same: and when it was -considered that the whole were perfect, with, -and without arms, they began to skirmish in -extended files, and last of all learned the duties -of a sentry, and to fire ball cartridge at a target. -The officer after all this was not considered clear -of the adjutant, until he could put a company -through the evolutions by word of command, -which he had already practised in the ranks. -It generally took him six months in summer -at four times a day (an hour at each period) to -perfect him in all he had to learn. The drill was -never kept more than an hour under arms, -when, to a minute, the time beater rolled his -drum, the only one, (light infantry regiments -used bugles) in the corps; and the recruits were -instantly dismissed.</p> - -<p>The orderly officer of each company made out -the daily morning state with his own hand. -Subalterns inspected squads on parade: the -company was then formed and given over to the -captain, who, with the rest of the officers, never -quitted their company to lounge about, so long -as the soldiers continued under arms. The corps -paraded twice a week in heavy marching order, -and the mess was equally well conducted, in -a system of style and economy happily blended.</p> - - - -<div class="footnote"> -<p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1">1</a> The grenadier company was composed of more than -one hundred men, and only contained <i>eleven men</i> so <i>short</i> as -five feet eleven inches.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2">2</a> Their code of military law, their pay, provisions, arms and -accoutrements were the same as in the line; and they often -marched three or four hundred miles at a sweep! In summer -they went into camp, or did garrison duty; and each company -possessed a <i>bat-horse</i> with a pack-saddle, to carry the <i>iron -camp kettles</i>.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3">3</a> Now the rifle-brigade.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4">4</a> Sir John Moore offered commissions to Lieutenants Booth, -Temple, and myself of the York. The two former joined the -52nd; but, as my brother fancied that I was too young and as -I was not my own master, I was obliged to submit to his decision. -Lieut. O-Reilly also entered the rifle-corps and was -subsequently killed on the river Coa in Portugal; and Lieut. -Booth was killed at the storming of Badajoz in Spain.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5">5</a> The pelisse was subsequently introduced, and a -soldier clad in (green tartan) the highland costume, carried a -small standard. The three light regiments increased to seven -battalions during the war; 43rd <i>two</i>; 52nd <i>two</i>; rifles <i>three</i>.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6">6</a> Trafalgar and Austerlitz.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7">7</a> Now hussars.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8">8</a> My brother and the same officer had a dispute eight months -after this affair. They met; and at the first fire my brother received -his adversary's hall through the upper part of his thigh, -but eventually recovered.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9">9</a> In that month the first battalion marched from Colchester -to Harwich to embark for Portugal with the 52nd and the -Rifle corps, under Major General R. Craufurd, and joined -the army in Spain the day after the battle of Talavera de la -Reyna, having made a forced march in good order, in -hopes of participating in that sanguinary battle, where they -found the remnant of those men who had been left sick or -wounded (in the battalion of detachments) in Portugal after -Vimiera, and who had been engaged at the passage of the -Douro near Oporto, and at Talavera. The 43rd had upwards of -one hundred men killed in that battle; and of officers, brigade -Major Gardner killed, and Lieutenant Brown wounded,—the -latter now commanding the second battalion Rifle brigade.</p> -</div> - - - - -<hr /> - -<div class="chapter"> - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">34</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER II.</h2> -</div> - -<blockquote> -<p class="hang">Scene of embarkation for foreign service at Deal—A character—Force -and objects of the expedition—Arrival off Walcheren—Siege -and capture of Flushing—Disastrous sickness among -the troops—Evacuation of Walcheren, with the author's -adventure on the occasion—The return to England—Napoleon's -situation at that period.</p> -</blockquote> - - -<p>In June 1809 we left Colchester with other -corps, for the purpose of embarkation; our route -lay through Chelmsford, Gravesend, Maidstone, -to Shorncliff barracks (in Kent) placed on the -summit of a hill extending to the verge of the -white cliffs overhanging the sea, and commanding -a clear view of the straits of Dover, and the -opposite coast of France.</p> - -<p>On the 16th of July we marched through -Dover to Deal, where innumerable boats lined -the shore for the purpose of conveying troops -to the various ships anchored in the Downs for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">35</a></span> -their reception. Large bodies of soldiers were -pouring into the town by all the roads to join the -vast armament about to rendez-vous at this point. -Hurrying into the boats, the hardy sailors pulled -away: the beach and the bay were covered with -thousands of soldiers, intermixed with the fair -daughters of Albion, who had come from afar -to witness this brilliant spectacle.</p> - -<p>The army was in a fine state of discipline, and -filled with enthusiasm, while the ensigns of many -naval victories floated in the breeze from the -mast heads of those men of war, that had for -years swept the ocean, opened the whole commerce -of the world to this island, and filled the -coffers of England with almost inexhaustible -resources.</p> - -<p>We had no sooner arrived on board the York -seventy four, commanded by Captain Barton, -than the usual bustle prevailed on such occasions, -which had in some measure subsided, when a -large fat man in a small boat was seen making -towards the ship, dressed in light fawn-coloured -breeches, white cotton stockings and shoes, -with a loose coat, evidently of provincial cut. -Coming alongside, he eagerly demanded the -number of the regiment on board, which proved -to be the identical one he was in search of; he -then mounted the side of the ship with breathless<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">36</a></span> -exertion, and attempted to bustle through the -crowd of soldiers huddled together. However, -the butt ends of some firelocks falling heavily -near his toes, formed a sufficient hint to arrest his -progress, and he was much confounded at -finding himself jostled amongst such a concourse -of troops for the first time in his life. After waiting -some time with intense anxiety, he at length -succeeded in clearing the way, crying out in -accents of one whose patience had been quite -exhausted by hopelessness of redress, "Will any -man in this ship have the goodness to point out -the Paymaster's berth? for really, gentlemen, I -have striven in vain to obtain an answer of the -many persons whom I have already addressed." -A voice from the crowd replied, "Why, there is -no such thing,"—at which unwelcome intelligence -the countenance of the applicant underwent a -painful transition from hope to despair.</p> - -<p>While at anchor in the Downs, the wind blew -sufficiently strong to cause the unpleasant motion -of the ship which produces sea sickness, and, -being one of the junior officers, I was not so -fortunate as the Paymaster, who had secured a -berth, for I wandered for three days into different -quarters of the ship, in a state unnecessary -to describe to those who have experienced the -heaving of a ship at anchor. A midshipman<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">37</a></span> -about my own age kindly offered to provide me -with such accommodation as the cock-pit afforded, -which offer I thankfully accepted, in hopes of -at least getting into a quiet uninterrupted corner. -I had scarcely entered the hammock hung for my -reception, when I was assailed by quantities of -cock chafers crawling over my face, and under -the blankets, (the ship having just returned from -a cruise from the West Indies.)</p> - -<p>The prodigious armament consisted of thirty-five -ships of the line; two of fifty guns, three of forty-four -guns; and one hundred and ninety-seven -sloops, bombs, and other armed small craft,—with -an army of thirty-nine thousand, two hundred -and nineteen men, including officers, all assembled -in the Downs on the 27th of July, 1809. The -whole were under the command of Rear-Adm. Sir -R. Strachan and Gen. the Earl of Chatham, in conjunction. -These Commanders sailed in the Venerable -at daylight, on the 28th of July, and arrived -in the East Kapelle roads, off the island of Walcheren on -that evening; but, owing to the boisterous -state of the weather, and contrary winds, a landing -could not be effected on the Domburg beach. -The other two divisions of the fleet followed in -succession from the Downs. The object of the -expedition was, to capture or destroy the enemy's -ships, building at Antwerp and Flushing, or afloat<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">38</a></span> -in the Scheldt; also the destruction of the arsenals -and dock-yards at Antwerp, Ternuese, and Flushing; -to reduce the island of Walcheren, and -render, if possible, the Scheldt no longer navigable -for ships of war; with directions to the commanders, -should they not be able to effect all -these objects, that after the reduction of Walcheren, -(which was to be kept possession of, and -a force left for its protection,) the remainder of the -troops were to be re-embarked, and to return to -England.</p> - -<p>The island of Walcheren is thirty-four miles in -circumference, including St. Jootsland, and is -situated between the mouths of the East and -West Scheldt, inclosed by Cadzand on the south, -South Beveland and Wolfertsdyck on the east, and -North Beveland on the north east. Our division -of the fleet sailed from the Downs at half-past ten -o'clock <span class="smcap">a. m.</span> on the 30th, and came to anchor -the next afternoon, in the East-Kapelle roads off -Walcheren, when we observed the mortar and gun-vessels -keeping up a heavy fire on the small town -of Ter Veere, whilst a small body of English -troops were lying behind the sand-hills, keeping -watch on the road towards Middelburg, the capital -of the island. Part of the fleet had already -entered the Veere Gat, and had landed a large -force, with three divisions of sailors (three hundred)<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">39</a></span> -the day before, at half-past four in the -afternoon, on the Bree-sand, a little more than a -mile west of Fort de Haak, the fire of which had -been previously silenced by the gun-boats and -mortars. The peaceable inhabitants sent a deputation -from Middelburg to the head-quarters; the -army advanced the next day, the 1st of August, -and took possession of that place, drove the enemy -into Flushing, and took from them some field-pieces.</p> - -<p>Gen. Sir John Hope landed his divisions in -South Beveland the same day, and took possession -of Ter Goes, the capital of the island, which is -thirty-five miles long. The French fleet had retired -beyond the chain which was drawn across -the Scheldt near Fort Lillo. On the 3d, a few -vessels were observed leaving Flushing; some -boats were sent in chase; the weather was fine, -the wind S.S.W., and the flood tide nearly down, -which gave every hope of their effecting a safe -return. The Raven sloop of war went to their -protection, when the enemy's vessels again retreated -into Flushing. The wind suddenly flew -west in a squall, first blowing hard and then -baffling. The boats got safe off, but the fire continued -on the sloop for four hours without intermission, -round shot passing through her from -the Breskens batteries, and grape dropping on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">40</a></span> -board from the ramparts of Flushing. She suffered -severely in the hull, masts, and rigging, and had -two guns dismounted, the top-mast shot away -above the lower caps, the main-mast, bowsprit, -and main-boom, rendered unserviceable, the sails -and rigging completely cut in pieces, and her -Commander, Capt. Hanchett, and eight men, -wounded. Night coming on, she grounded on -the Ellboog; at daybreak two brigs were sent -to her assistance, and at seven she floated.</p> - -<p>The enemy were very apprehensive lest our -army should make an attempt to pass the East -Scheldt, near Zandvliet, opposite fort Bathz, which -they attacked on the 5th with twenty-eight gun-boats, -but were driven off by the batteries. The -weather continued so bad until the 7th, the wind -blowing S.W. and S.S.W., that the sea blockade -of Flushing could not be accomplished, and the -enemy continued to convey their wounded soldiers -to Cadzand, and also threw one thousand men across -the Scheldt, one mile and three-quarters, to reinforce -the town. At half-past five o'clock in the -evening of the 7th the enemy made a sortie on -the right of the line from Flushing, but were -repulsed and pushed back at the point of the -bayonet. While all these things were going on, -our regiment had been removed from the line-of-battle -ship into small craft, and anchored in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">41</a></span> -Sloe passage, between Walcheren and South Beveland. -On the morning of the 9th, ours, the light -brigade, composed of the second battalions of the -43rd, 52nd, and the Rifle corps, part of Earl Rosslyn's -division (two thousand and twenty-two men) -were under the command of Major Gen. Stewart. -He considered, from the nature of the service we -were likely to be employed on, and probably cut -off from our baggage by dykes and rivers, that -small black knapsacks, with brown straps, would -prove of essential service to the officers: for these -we had paid half-a-guinea each, previously to our -leaving England. However, subsequently, as he -expected us to carry them at brigade field-days, -some little discussion arose on that head, behind -a wind-mill.</p> - -<p>A day's salt pork and biscuit being served out, -and all the officers with their knapsacks strapped -on their backs, we began our march; the day -was extremely sultry, without a breath of air; -the road was perfectly flat, as well as the whole -face of the country, which was intersected with -ditches, covered with a thick ooze or vegetable -substance, and high dykes rising on each side of -the way. The Paymaster had joined the column, -as the place of the greatest security. As guns -from the gun-boats were sounding at intervals, in -front and rear, we persuaded him that it was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">42</a></span> -probable we might become engaged without any -previous warning, by a front, flank, or rear attack, -which information, added to the heat of the -atmosphere, put him into such a state of perspiration, -that when we halted, a liquid stream of -hot water poured from his forehead, such as -I have never before, nor since beheld; added to -which, his tailor had fitted his corpulent sides to -a nicety, although equal praise could not be -bestowed on his hatter, who had manufactured -his cap so large, that it fell over his face like an -extinguisher, and the worst of it was, both his -hands were occupied; in his right he held his -wig and drenched pocket-handkerchief, while his -left was in momentary request to disentangle his -sabre from betwixt his legs. "Well," said he, -with a good-tempered smile, "if ever I knew any -thing like this!" and, notwithstanding his uncomfortable -plight, he cracked his jokes, and proved -himself a man of more ready wit, and possessing -a greater fund of anecdote and humorous stories, -than any one I ever met with, so that he became -a general favourite throughout the regiment: but -such a figure in a light infantry jacket! such -skirts, with pockets large enough to have stowed -away half the striplings of the corps! When the -brigade was put in motion, he remained in the -middle of the way, as they passed him right and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">43</a></span> -left, and waited for the light waggons carrying our -baggage; then stowing himself comfortably away -in one of them, he was brought to our cantonments -perfectly sick of campaigning.</p> - -<p>As we passed along, we were much struck at -the great cleanliness of the cottages, and at the -contented air of the well-dressed peasantry. The -females were decorated with silver or gold ornaments -about their persons, and many of them -wore a plate of the same metal across their -foreheads. The little boys of five or six years -old held pipes in their mouths, smoking with all -the gravity of men, and wore their hair long -behind, broad-brimmed hats, brown jackets, short -breeches, shoes, and silver buckles, precisely -similar to the elders. We passed through Ter-Goes, -a fine old brick town, surrounded by earth -ramparts and a wet ditch; it opened its gates -without making any resistance to Sir John Hope's -corps.</p> - -<p>Continuing our march half a league farther on, -we arrived at the clean village of Cloting, containing -a good church, and a handsome house in -the centre of it, which was the residence of the -Burgomaster; we took up our quarters in the -different houses, and the men in the spacious -handsome barns, painted green, such as may be -seen near gentlemen's houses in England. Five<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">44</a></span> -companies of our regiment were detached to another -village. The humble dwellings of the peasantry -bore an air of comfort, and the abundantly -supplied dairies, paved with well washed tiles, -presented a freshness seldom exhibited among the -poorer classes of other countries.—A considerable -flotilla proceeded to Bathz, where they arrived on -the 11th; the enemy attacked the fort with two -frigates, one bearing a Vice Admiral's flag, thirty -brigs, eight luggers, one schooner, and fourteen -gun boats; at the expiration of a smart firing, they -were beaten off, leaving six gun boats aground, -five being destroyed, and one brought in. In -the afternoon of the same day, Capt. Lord W. -Stuart, commanding the Lavinia and nine other -frigates, availed himself of a light breeze from the -westward, (notwithstanding the tide was against -the proceeding,) sailed up the west Scheldt, and -passed the batteries between Cadzand and Flushing; -the ships were under the enemy's fire for -nearly two hours, without any material accident, -with the exception of a shell striking the L'Aigle, -and falling through her decks into the bread-room, -where it exploded: one man was killed and four -wounded, and her stern frame much shattered. -The Amethyst got aground after passing Flushing.</p> - -<p>On the 13th, the batteries before Flushing -being completed, and some frigates and bombs<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">45</a></span> -having taken their station, a fire was opened at -half past one <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> from upwards of fifty pieces of -heavy ordnance, including mortars and howitzers, -which was vigorously returned by the enemy; an -additional battery was finished during the night, of -six twenty-four-pounders, (worked by sailors,) -and the whole continued to play on the town; until -late on the following day. At half-past ten on the -morning of the 14th, the following line of battle -ships (anchored in the Duerlo passage) got under -weigh: the St. Domingo, Blake, Repulse, Victorious, -Denmark, Audacious, and Venerable,—and -ranged along the sea-front of the town, led in by -Rear-Admiral Sir R. Strachan; but before they -had opened their fire, the wind came more -southerly, and the St. Domingo grounded inside -the Dog-land; an officer, not knowing her situation, -passed inside of her, by which means the -Blake also grounded; the other ships were ordered -to haul off to anchor as at first intended. The -Domingo was soon got off, and the Blake became -again afloat, and came to anchor with the rest of -the squadron; the ships continued to ply the -enemy with a furious cannonade until four in the -afternoon, when the town presented a vast conflagration, -burning in all quarters. The firing -having nearly ceased from the ramparts, Gen. -Monnet, the Governor was summoned to surrender,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">46</a></span> -but he having given an evasive answer, -hostilities recommenced and continued until two -o'clock in the morning of the 15th, when the -enemy demanded a suspension of arms, and within -an hour the Governor surrendered the town, -(when two detachments of the Royals and 71st -regiments took possession of its gates,) and the -whole of the garrison, prisoners of war, besides -those already taken in the different forts and -islands of Walcheren, South Beveland, Shouwen, -Duivland, Brouwershaven, and Zierigkzee, with -all the valuable stores therein. The loss in killed, -wounded, and missing of the British, during the -siege, was about seven hundred and twenty, including -officers.</p> - -<p>From this moment offensive operations seemed -at an end: we were surrounded with abundance, -our days were occupied in the sports of the field, -our evenings passed at each others' quarters in -idle and pleasant conversation, pay was issued -almost to the day that it was due. Provisions of -all descriptions were offered for sale at a very low -rate: tea, sugar, and coffee, were not half the price -of the same in England; wines, brandy, hollands, -and liqueurs, might be purchased for a mere trifle; -and fat fowls or ducks for tenpence the pair. -In this land of plenty we were lulled into a fatal -security, for, about the 20th, the soldiers fell ill,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">47</a></span> -staggered, and dropped in the ranks, seized by -dreadful fevers<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor"><sup>10</sup></a>, and with such rapidity did this -malady extend, that in fourteen days, twelve -thousand and eighty six soldiers were in hospital -on board ship, or sent to England; the deaths were -numerous, and sometimes sudden; convalescence -hardly ever secure; the disorders ultimately destroying -the constitution, and causing eventually the -destruction of thousands in far distant climes.</p> - -<p>The natives now became ill, and informed us -that one-third of them were confined to their -beds every autumn until the frosty weather set in, -which checked the exhalations from the earth, -and gave new tone to their debilitated frames, and -thereby stopped the progress of the complaint. -Independently of the records of the unhealthiness -of these islands, where every object depicts it in the -most forcible manner, the bottom of every canal -that has communication with the sea is thickly -covered with an ooze, which, when the tide is -out, emits a most offensive effluvium; and every -ditch that is filled with water, is loaded with -animal and vegetable substances. If persons -living in these islands from their infancy, who -practise a cleanliness that cannot be excelled,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">48</a></span> -and live in good houses, cannot prevent the effects -of the climate, it may readily be supposed how -much more a foreign army must suffer. The -inhabitants informed us, that in the preceding -autumn, two hundred French troops were quartered -in the village, out of whom one hundred and -sixty had the fever, and seventy of them died.</p> - -<p>Our landing had excited a great sensation in -the north of France; so much so, that numerous -corps of the national guards marched to the -succour of Antwerp, only garrisoned when we -first made our descent on the coast with three -thousand men, besides the eight thousand sailors -on board the fleet, that had retired up the Scheldt. -Many of the national guards suffered from the -climate, and shortly returned to their families -with ruined constitutions.</p> - -<p>The town of Flushing, after the siege, presented -a deplorable appearance, with many houses burnt -down, and most of them unroofed, and scarcely -supplying sufficient covering for the sick soldiers, -who continued to increase so fast, that ten inhabitants -to each regiment were requested to assist as -attendants in the hospitals; the medical officers -were extremely harrassed, numbers of them became -incapable of attending on their patients, -being themselves seized by the same fatal malady, -so that, as the fever gained ground, the doctors<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">49</a></span> -diminished in numbers. At one period, four hundred -and ninety-eight soldiers died in a fortnight -in Walcheren, which place the Austrians were -very solicitous our troops should continue to -occupy as long as any chance remained for them -against Napoleon, who was at this time in the -very heart of their empire.</p> - -<p>Early in September, while at dinner, a sudden -order reached us to move towards the coast, when -we instantly packed up and reached the beach in -two hours, where the troops began their embarkation. -The captain of the company, with agitated -looks, ran towards me, and told me that, in the -hurry of moving off, he had left the whole of his -company's books in the corner of the room we had -occupied, and that the commanding officer had -most positively refused him permission to fetch -them. Under these circumstances, and at his -urgent entreaties, and promises to have a boat in -waiting on my return, I undertook the unpleasant -excursion, and, rapidly retracing my steps, I re-entered -the village at a quick pace, in little more -than an hour; it appeared quite tranquil, as if no -foreigners had ever been amongst them. One or -two natives only were looking from their windows. -A sudden thought now struck me that I might -be seized and made prisoner, which caused me -much uneasiness; but yet to decamp without<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">50</a></span> -accomplishing my object, was sorely against the -grain with me. While assailed by such conjectures, -I entered the door of the house that we had previously -occupied, which I found open, and saw the -contented inmates enjoying a comfortable meal, -nor did they evince the least surprise at my -reappearance. Without uttering a word, and -passing into the inner apartment, I seized the -books, (the dinner was still untouched on the table -exactly as we had left it,) and with hasty strides -repassed the room where the family were seated, -making a slight inclination of the head: they -half rose at seeing me loaded; but not a syllable -was exchanged between us. Some of the inhabitants -had now come out of their houses, and -regarded me with suspicious looks: I feigned indifference; -but no sooner cleared the village, than I -started almost at speed, and had made great -progress, when I espied at a distance the light -waggons and fat hollow-backed horses, with flowing -manes and tails, returning from the beach at -a trot; and, being aware that the soldiers were -not very ceremonious on these occasions, I was -apprehensive the drivers of these vehicles might -be disposed to treat me in the same manner, -or probably take me back as a hostage. I therefore -concealed myself behind a bank until they -should have passed by. Night soon came on,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">51</a></span> -but I could descry the lights in the ships' tops, -and, in my hurry to follow their direction, I took -the wrong road, which led me into a field where -it ended. However, with the hope that a short -way farther would enable me to reach the beach, -I darted onwards, and found a broad ditch impeding -my farther progress. It was in vain I ran -up and down in search of a narrow part; in almost -a fit of desperation, I hurled the books across, one -after the other, tried my footing, retired some -paces, and, at a run, sprang across it with the -greatest exertion, while a momentary joy gleamed -over my countenance, on mounting a bank, to find -myself at the water's edge. The lights were still -stationary, but not a boat to be seen. Owing to -my great exertions and haste in passing over -fourteen miles of ground, I was in a profuse -perspiration, which was soon succeeded by a cold -shivering, such as I imagined was the disorder -incidental to this swampy country. I feared that I -should be left to perish before I could reach the -ship; a heavy dew fell, and I was almost perishing -with cold, having no other covering than my -light infantry jacket, sash, and pantaloons, -without drawers or a waistcoat of any sort. Frequently -I was forced to run up and down to keep -my blood in circulation, and my teeth from -chattering. In this manner, alternately sitting,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">52</a></span> -running, or casting my eye towards the lights, -which, at times, and in the exuberance of my -fancy, I thought were receding, I passed the -dreary hours of the night. At daybreak, some -sailors pulling in shore, discovered my flying -pocket handkerchief, and came to my relief, and, -after a considerable pull, we found the regiment -on board the Ganges. Then, giving my last dollar -to the sailors for grog, I mounted the side of the -ship, and descended into the ward-room, where I -found the officers scattered about, and lying on a -main-sail, that had been spread out for their -accommodation. Delivering the books to the -owner, I was fully determined never again to -volunteer such a Quixotic excursion. The officer -assured me that all his endeavours to procure -a boat had been unavailing.</p> - -<p>The next day two hundred sick soldiers and -officers were removed on board small craft to -proceed to England, and, as I happened to be one -of those for detachment, we left the line-of-battle -ship, went on board a transport, and steered -our course for the Downs, where we arrived -in two days, and cast anchor for forty-eight hours, -then again got under weigh, and buffeted about -for four days more, between the Downs and -Harwich, where we landed our sick soldiers and -officers. When we were stepping on shore, a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">53</a></span> -countryman, looking towards us, exclaimed, -"There goes the King's hard bargains."</p> - -<p>The evening we landed, a fine healthy-looking -young serjeant brought me the orderly-book,—and, -on visiting the hospital at ten -o'clock the next morning, I heard he had been -dead one hour. So much for the Walcheren malady! -In fact, the most fatal battle could hardly -have made such havock in our ranks. Thus, in -the short space of seven months, the English -coast had been inundated with sick soldiers and -scattered regiments from the Land's-end to Yarmouth. -Walcheren was finally evacuated in the -end of December.</p> - -<p>Napoleon had humbled his rivals, had ridden out -the storm raised against him, and repulsed all his -enemies. Pope Pius the VIIth had indeed thundered -forth a spiritual excommunication against him -and his followers at the beginning of the Austrian -campaign; but he had unluckily fallen into the -power of his temporal master, who, seated in the -saloon of the Palace of the Tuileries, was meditating -new conquests, and weaving silken cords -for the Emperor of Austria's daughter.</p> - - - -<div class="footnote"> -<p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10">10</a> The sailors on board ship did not suffer much from the -malady.</p> -</div> - - - - -<hr /> - -<div class="chapter"> - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">54</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER III.</h2> -</div> - -<blockquote> -<p class="hang">Progress of distemper on the re-landing of the regiment in England—Change -of quarters—Amusements—Colchester—An -eventful water party—The author obtains leave to join the -detachment proceeding to Portugal—A Review—A tale of -dental dislocation—Embarkation at Spithead—Landing in -Portugal—Incidents of an evening—Amusements at Lisbon, -and departure from that city.</p> -</blockquote> - - -<p>The regiment soon re-landed in England, and -marched to Colchester, where a vast number of -the men died, of ours as well as all the other corps, -thereby keeping the clergy in constant requisition -to repeat the funeral service over the rudely-shaped -coffins of the dead soldiers. Nearly the whole -of the corps to which I belonged were laid up -with ague and fever, to such a degree, that those -able to walk and the few fit for duty were removed -to Sudbury, for the benefit of change of -air. This proved very beneficial and restored -the strength of those who had not been very -badly affected with the malady.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">55</a></span></p> - -<p>At the expiration of two months we were able -to muster again about two hundred, out of six, -fit for duty. Those officers whose health was -sufficiently re-established frequented the balls -at Bury St. Edmunds, which were extremely well -attended by the neighbouring families; added to -these, occasional jaunts and a few private parties -made the time pass pleasantly enough until we -were ordered to Weeley Barracks, where we -spent a sombre winter, (with two other regiments) -which passed without any occurrence -worth mentioning, except that of the garrison -being called out to fire a <i>feu de joie</i> in celebration -of George the Third's having reigned over this -country for fifty years.</p> - -<p>In the spring we shifted our quarters to Colchester, -being perfectly sickened of our rustic -amusements of shooting larks, skating, or pacing -up and down a solitary barrack-square of great -extent, and surrounded by a rich grass country, -without any thing worthy the appellation of a village -for a considerable distance.</p> - -<p>Soon afterwards myself and another officer went -to Portsmouth to receive volunteers. The officers -of a regiment invited us to dine with them at Gosport, -and so plied us with peppered turkeys' legs, -devilled biscuits and port wine, that we were unable -to beat a retreat until two o'clock in the morning.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">56</a></span> -On reaching the ferry, there was not a boat to be -seen; wherefore, from necessity, we were reduced to -content ourselves with a seat on some stone steps, -and there to await the rising sun, whose beams -no sooner crimsoned the western hemisphere, than -we hailed the first morning ferry boat, and -reached our lodging, right glad to quaff a smoking -cup of coffee in order to settle our stomachs from -the last night's debauch. In a few days we left -the rustic vicinity of Portsmouth, and reached the -red-bricked town of Colchester, where our time -passed in such amusements as are usually practised -at a provincial quarter and are so well known -to most of the British army, who have had the -honor of promenading up and down its <i>pavé</i>.</p> - -<p>One day a water party was talked of, and no sooner -proposed than put into execution. A boat was -procured and rowers selected—the rest of the -party being armed with fowling pieces for the -destruction of gulls and carrion crows, or such -other birds as might chance to cross us during -our acquatic excursion on the river Colne. The -boat being put in motion, after an hour's hard -pull, the river became considerably wider, the -tide was on the ebb, the weather propitious, and -so much way made, that we resolved to obtain -a glimpse of the sea, which soon being accomplished, -we pulled in shore, made good our landing,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">57</a></span> -and selected the most rural spot to partake -of those viands prepared for the occasion, which, -being spread out on nature's green carpet, -were speedily devoured by eight hungry young -officers, and every bottle of wine and brown stout -emptied to the very dregs. The party, full of hilarity, -then returned to their slender bark; but -great was our surprise to find it high and dry, -the tide nearly out, and only a narrow stream -remaining of the spacious Colne water we had -quitted a few hours before. A launch being necessary, -our jackets and caps were hurled into -the boat, and, by the most strenuous exertions, it -was shoved through the mud, and again afloat; then -rapidly plying our oars, we made some progress, -notwithstanding that the tide was still running -out; when at length the water entirely failed, -leaving us aground, amid channel, with extensive -banks of mud rising to a considerable height on -each side of us,—the sight of which afforded much -mirth at the idea of our having rowed during -high tide over hill and dale; so much for our -geographical knowledge and nautical skill! While -in this plight, one of the party was in the act of -divesting himself of superfluous dress, and tying -the articles into a bundle, pleading in excuse -that an appointment with a <i>fair damsel</i> obliged -him to land. A noisy debate ensued amongst us:<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">58</a></span> -by way of intimidating him at the same time, a -threat was added, that should he attempt to desert, -some small shot should be discharged at -him. While we were loading the guns, he sprang -from the bark and scrambled some yards, assailed -by the vociferations of the party; but, before -he had reached the prescribed distance, twenty -yards, his situation became most alarming: every -succeeding step, he sank deeper into the mire; -and he was now up to his middle, calling out for -help, forty yards from us, and one hundred from -the shore. To return was impossible,—the -fowling pieces dropped from our hands, as we -watched his motions in fearful anxiety, every -instant expecting to see him disappear. Despair -gave him strength and perseverance: but he -became a mass of mud, and his features were -no longer distinguishable. I can truly assert, -that at no period of my life did I ever feel -stronger feelings of commiseration; a hundred -weight seemed at my chest. In this way he -continued his exertions, and, from time to time, -while resting, it could scarcely be ascertained -whether he was not gone altogether, so identified -was he with the mud. Again he moved, and -at the expiration of half an hour's toil, he emerged -from his miry bed, presenting the appearance of -an alligator, after a wallowing immersion, more<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">59</a></span> -than any thing else! As he reached the shore, -the most unbounded expressions of joy on our part -hailed his deliverance from his perilous situation. -Then, spreading out his bundle of garments in a -very dirty state, he put them on, waved his hand, -and speedily vanished from our view—whilst we, -less adventurous, or not being so particularly engaged -on that evening, were left shivering and -lightly clothed, until some time after dark, when -we had sufficient depth of water to enable us to -steer our course. When at length in motion, the -wind being astern, the only cloak amongst us -was hoisted by way of a sail, but it was long after -midnight before we reached the place from whence -we had started.</p> - -<p>About this time (June 1, 1811), three hundred -and twenty men of the second battalion, with -a proportionate number of officers, were ordered -to proceed to Portsmouth for embarkation to -join the first battalion in Portugal. On the -morning of their departure the bugles sounded -the march. My mortification was extreme, for positively -the last officer was selected to accompany -them, and two of my seniors stood by my side, -who of course had a prior claim to mine, and who -could not succeed in obtaining permission to -go; so that all hope for me seemed now entirely to -vanish, and we were obliged to content ourselves<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">60</a></span> -by accompanying them a short way on the road, -until their first halt,—the merry notes of the horns -striking up "over the hills and far away," the -signal for wives to be torn from their husbands, -children from their fathers, friends from their -companions,—many bidding a long and last farewell. -The detachment followed the broad path -of their profession, while we, through dire necessity, -took that which led to peace and pasturage -amongst the Essex graziers; but no sooner had -we reached our quiet quarters, than another consultation -took place, between Lieutenants the -Honourable Charles Gore, Wilkinson, and myself, -wherein we pledged ourselves, that the trio -should not be separated for individual interest, -(and, as I was the junior officer, that point was -of consequence to me); then hastening to the -house of the senior officer, we assailed him <i>ensemble</i> -by entreaties and arguments, until, finding -we were bent on carrying our point, he consented -to forward a memorial to the Duke of -York, penned by us, which he signed. That -done, we ran down to the post office, popped it -into the box, and by return of post a favourable -answer was given. What a moment! Gore and -myself rubbed our hands and the little corporal -Wilky (for that rank he had borne at the Military -College at Marlow, and still continued the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">61</a></span> -title), fell on his knees and returned thanks to -Heaven, for his good fortune. Our heavy baggage -was crammed into the store, and ourselves, -with light hearts, that evening proceeded to -London.</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding the usual hurry and preparation -when going on foreign service, I managed to -find my way to Wimbledon Common, where, I -heard, a grand review was to take place on the -10th of June of the household cavalry, a brigade -of hussars, commanded by Lord Paget, (now -Marquis of Anglesea), a brigade of the foot -guards, a battalion of foot artillery, wearing cross -belts and white pouches, armed with muskets, -and a multitude of volunteers, besides a proportionable -train of artillery. When the Prince -Regent rode down the line, I was much struck -at the Duke of York's preceding him, dismounting -in front of the two regiments of foot guards, -and standing with his sword across his body, -while his royal brother passed. This was an excellent -example of discipline, so like the prince, -the soldier, and the gentleman.</p> - -<p>The next day, leaving the metropolis, we arrived -at the place of embarkation, and so managed -as to meet the detachment about the same -distance from Portsmouth, that we had left them -on the road from Colchester; being not a little<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">62</a></span> -anxious to observe the astonishment that our -unexpected reappearance would create amongst -them.</p> - -<p>My friend instantly ran towards me and expressed -the happiness he felt at meeting me in -such a way; and, almost in the same breath, said, -"Oh! we have had such fun this morning!" On -leaving Chichester at the break of day, the head of -the column had been thrown into the greatest confusion -by the assistant surgeon; "Halt! halt!" -cried he, "stop, pray stop; you are trampling on -my teeth," at the same moment throwing himself -on the ground, and groping in the dust for four -artificial teeth that had dropped from his mouth. -The officers and soldiers were confounded at his -exclamations, while the wondering circle encompassed -him in mute expectation. At length, having -put several questions, to which they only -obtained confused and unintelligible answers, an -officer ordered the men to proceed; and several -voices, joining in chorus, exclaimed:—"Why, he's -mad; the doctor's intellects are impaired;"—for -they did not fully comprehend his real loss, owing -to his wild incoherent and extraordinary gesticulations—nor -did he overtake the party or make -his reappearance until they had halted at the half-way -house, where he found them seated round a -smoking tea urn, hot muffins, toast, chickens,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">63</a></span> -ham, and all those little delicacies so tempting -after an early walk to those possessing youth, -health, and <i>good grinders</i>. The woe-begone -countenance of the doctor, on his entering the -room, caused a momentary commiseration; but -no sooner did he open his mouth, and display the -vacant orifice, which no longer left any doubt of -the nature of the loss he had sustained, than bursts -of merriment, and noisy pity, were the only consolation -the unlucky and crest-fallen <i>medico</i> -received—who merely vented his wrath in broken -monosyllables, no longer daring to trust his mouth -with a laugh.</p> - -<p>The Monarch transport of three masts, and -of considerable tonnage, was lying at anchor at -Spithead for our reception. Nearly the whole of us -being embarked, and the Blue Peter flying at the -mast head on the 18th, there was a sufficient warning -to the few left on shore to hasten on board. The -sails being hoisted, and spreading their white bosoms -to the gale, we cut through the water, with a -spanking breeze, cleared the Needles, and, steering -a prosperous course, in three days were brought -into the Bay of Biscay. The wind howled, the -vessel heaved and cracked, one instant on high, -and the next moment hurried downwards as if -about to be ingulphed and buried in the mighty -waters; the huge waves lashed and beat against<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">64</a></span> -her sides with foaming violence, whilst every loose -article rattled about the cabin; the strife of pots -and kettles being only interrupted by the smashing -of cups and saucers, and other brittle utensils. -During this combination of sounds I lay in my -berth, with a wash-hand basin betwixt my legs, -ready at a moment's warning, and with my eyes, -half-closed, fixed on a solitary candle, sliding to -and fro on the table, and threatening to extinguish -itself into one of the lower berths. Thus stretched -out, and sinking into a disturbed and feverish -slumber, I soon again awoke with my tongue -parched, a horrible taste in my mouth, and my -lips glewed together, counting the tedious hours -of the coming morn, till I should be enabled -to procure a refreshing glass of water. At last the -happy moment arrived, my trembling hand was -put forth to grasp the liquid stream—my mouth -opened—but my nose gave warning of that which -smelt and tasted like the Harrowgate Spa, and -was any thing but <i>aqua pura</i>. The next evening I -made an effort to gain my sea legs, crept out of -the cabin, mounted on the deck, and slipped and -staggered towards a poultry-coop, on which I -sank in a reclining position, to inhale the freshness -of the air. The dark and broad clouds flitted -past, and at intervals veiled the moon, which -seemed flying away in the opposite direction, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">65</a></span> -smiling in derision at our clumsy progress, (with -double reefed topsails,) over the troubled waves. -Perpetual motion seemed at last accomplished, -as the bows and stern of the vessels rose alternately, -and in rapid succession. In the morning -a thick haze hung over the atmosphere, -through which we could discern the outlines of -the ponderous mountains of Spain, rising one -above the other, until their gloomy shadows were -lost to view in the interior.</p> - -<p>On the tenth morning, with a gentle breeze, and -spotless sky, we glided along the rugged coast of -Portugal, and observed a number of barks making -towards us, decorated with white flapping sails, -and filled with swarthy raggamuffin pilots, who -were hallooing, pulling, and hauling at each other -in a confused way, which gave the frail bark the appearance -of being about to overturn keel uppermost, -and leave its brown visaged cocked-hatted navigators -floundering and splashing for their existence -in the briny waves of the dark blue ocean. Shortly -afterwards we entered the sparkling waters of the -Tagus, skirted by purple-capt mountains, curling -vines, fragrant orange groves, and a white city, reflected -in its glassy waters, canopied by an azure -sky, a golden sun, and a genial atmosphere. We -dropped our anchor within a short distance of Lisbon.</p> - -<p>The following day, the 28th, we landed, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">66</a></span> -the soldiers took up their quarters at the Convento -di Carmo. The interior of the city by no means -corresponds with the exterior, as viewed at a distance, -owing to the general narrowness of the streets -that are choked up in some places with heaps of -filth, continually stirred up, and eagerly devoured -by packs of prowling and half-famished dogs.</p> - -<p>Towards evening a small piece of paper was -handed to myself and friend, with the name of -a Portuguese inserted, at whose house we were to -be quartered. Having made the necessary inquiries -of a bragging native, he pointed out to us -the direction we ought to take, and also made motions, -by way of intimating to us our good fortune -in having so spacious an abode for our accommodation. -Having traversed over a great portion -of the town, in search of our billet, we at -length came to a large gloomy-looking mansion, -the door of which we found open, and ascended -a dirty stone stair case, where at each landing-place -we found ponderous doors: but it was in -vain we kicked, thumped, and called; the echo -of our own voices was the only answer returned.</p> - -<p>Night coming on, we again sallied forth into -the streets, and, while passing near a church, -we met a procession following a deceased nobleman -for interment. Large wax tapers being offered -to us, about four feet long, and thick in proportion,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">67</a></span> -we each grasped one, and entered the church -with others. The lid of the coffin being removed, -we beheld the pale corpse attired in a magnificent -satin dress, and mantle superbly embroidered -with gold: the pantaloons were of white silk, -and full satin rosettes were attached to the -velvet shoes. A full-dress court sword lay by -his side, and a black hat of velvet, with a nodding -plume of ostrich feathers, looped up with a brilliant -stone, rested at the head of the coffin. -His costume, in short, was similar to that worn -by Don Juan on our own stage. The ceremony -being concluded, a man stepped forward with a -basket filled with quick lime, which he threw -on the dead body in the presence of the spectators: -that done, all the by-standers instantly retired, -and gave up their tapers to persons waiting to -receive them at the church door.</p> - -<p>Much fatigued, we returned, and reached the -cloisters of the convent, in search of our servants -and baggage. While we were debating on -the best method of securing a place of rest for the -night, an athletic figure came stalking towards -us, enveloped in the garments of a friar, having -a fine dark countenance, and jet black hair cut -short and shaved on the crown of his head, about -two inches in diameter. He demanded how it was -that we seemed wandering about at so late an<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">68</a></span> -hour of the night. We briefly informed him of -our situation, when he most courteously invited us -to follow him and led us through several passages -and up many flights of stairs to a couple of small -bed rooms at the very top of the convent; then -retired for a short time, and re-appeared, loaded -with wine and sweetmeats. My friend had previously -been in the country, and therefore could -make himself understood; and, as he was acting -quarter-master (at eighteen) for the detachment, -he was glad of this opportunity which now -offered to be near the men, to enable him to superintend -the serving out of rations early on the -following morning. Our host proved to be the -abbot, and after a short conversation he wished -us a sound repose to follow our sea voyage, and -retired.</p> - -<p>During our stay at Lisbon, we made a point -of seeing the handsome churches, the opera, the -grand aqueduct and other curiosities. The night -previously to our quitting this place, the Consul -gave a ball, to which we were invited; and I was -surprised to observe the Portuguese gentlemen -in coloured clothes, with pink and various-coloured -silk stockings. The costume of the ladies was -gaudy, but their dresses were ill made and worse -put on. We only danced one set, and, some -hours having elapsed without any appearance of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">69</a></span> -supper, (which was of serious consideration to us, -as we were ordered to be on the banks of the -Tagus the next morning at day light for the -purpose of embarking in boats for Villada, some -distance up the river,) I explored a suite of -rooms at the extremity of which I espied on a sideboard -a huge dish filled with wafer cakes: but, -not wishing to attack such a prize without an -ally, I hastened to my companion to communicate -my good luck, who, without further ado, -assisted at their demolition. Although they -were the largest of the kind I had ever before -seen, our young teeth cracked them with an -extraordinary rapidity; smash! smash! they went, -and two layers had now disappeared, when -a Portuguese attendant out of livery, observing -such dreadful havoc, advanced to their rescue, -assuring us with solemn physiognomy that -they were reserved for the ladies. Hostilities -ceased on their protector's consenting to procure -us a bottle of wine, two goblets of which we -hastily swallowed, and instantly sallied out into -the odoriferous streets. "<i>Agua fresca, agua -fresca</i>" resounded from all quarters, while -buckets of the most nauseous contents fell with -a splash from the upper stories of houses into the -space below—like the bursting of water spouts. -"Conceal yourself," cried my friend, "or you<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">70</a></span> -will be scented and sprinkled all over." In this -manner, running the gauntlet at every turning, -we proceeded until we reached the dark and narrow -flight of stairs leading to our heavenly -apartments, where we had no sooner entered than -I put my foot on the body of a man, who lay -stretched at full length across the doorway. I -hung back, and we regroping our way down into -the court yard, and alarming the guard, lights were -procured: the rays of the lamp fell on the face -of my drunken snoring servant, encircled with -bottles—having emptied the contents into his own -stomach. From the effects of this he had scarcely -recovered at the hour of our departure, leaving -me the agreeable task of packing up, and seeing -my mule safe off, as the baggage and animals -were to cross the grand lines of Torres Vedras, -and meet us at the place of disembarkation.</p> - -<p>Passing through the principal streets, we entered -the boats for our conveyance (after a stay -of eleven days at Lisbon) and landed in the evening -at Villada.</p> - - - - -<hr /> - -<div class="chapter"> - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">71</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER IV.</h2> -</div> - -<blockquote> -<p class="hang">March to Santarem and Abrantes—Scenery and incidents at -Aronches—Junction with some other regiments—Military -scene in a wood—Anticipatory reflections on the fate of -some of the author's comrades—Quarters at Portalagre, -Castello de Vida and Marvao—Bridge of boats across the -Tagus—Contiguous scenery—Horrors of travelling for invalids -in the Portuguese cars.</p> -</blockquote> - - -<p>Our animals and baggage having joined us the -next day, we took the road towards Santarem, and -about dusk reached the causeway leading up a steep -hill into the town, where the French, previously to -their retreat under Marshal the Prince of Essling<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor"><sup>11</sup></a>, -had thrown the dead from their hospitals into the -wells,—the idea of which caused such horrible -thoughts, that we could scarcely summon up sufficient -resolution to drink while at that place.</p> - -<p>The excessive heat of the following day having -somewhat subsided, towards the cool of the -evening we began our march, but, by some unaccountable<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">72</a></span> -accident, took the wrong road for upwards -of a league before the mistake was found -out. Retreading our steps, we at length regained -the identical spot from whence we had previously -started nearly three hours before; glancing my -eye towards the battlements of the town, a smile -prophetic passed my countenance, that I should -not again behold its turrets. Turning our backs, -and pursuing the right road, we gaily tramped -along toward Golegam; and, as the morning -dawned, I was loudly knocking for admittance at -the door of a small house, on the confines of the -church-yard, that was strewed with skulls which -had been torn from the sepulchres and graves, in -search of gold, by the French soldiery.</p> - -<p>After the usual halt we pursued our march -through Punhete to Abrantes, where two of us -were nearly carried away amongst the quicksands, -while bathing in the river Tagus, and only -reached the shore by making the greatest efforts. -Various individuals had been drowned at this -place by the current.</p> - -<p>Having halted here one whole day, we crossed -over the bridge of boats to the southern province of -the Alentejo, and entered Gaviao, where I was billeted -in a very poor house. At night I entered a -recess, much fatigued, and, upon quitting the mattrass -in the morning, the bugs had made such a feast -on my right leg from the hip to the very sole of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">73</a></span> -my foot, so that I could scarcely walk, and was -in a most dreadful state of irritation.</p> - -<p>Passing onwards in our march, on the ninth day, -we ascended a high hill on the summit of which -stood Aronches, commanding an extensive prospect -over a diversified sandy country, intersected -with forests, vineyards, rocks, and small fields -of Indian corn, and encompassed by dilapidated -walls formed of loose stones carelessly heaped -one on another without mortar. The streets of -the town were narrow, and almost deserted, with -huge shapeless rocks at every few yards, rearing -their heads, and blocking up the way, whilst a -solitary Portuguese was seen striking an old battered -guitar with all his fingers (as on a tambourine) -and hallooing forth some ditty loud enough to -be heard in the distant valleys. The heat of the -day was quite overpowering, the firmament was -of heavenly blue, while the sun shone forth in -full splendour, forcing us to retire to some shady -spot from its scorching rays, and to take some -repose after the fatigues of the march.</p> - -<p>Towards the close of the evening we again -stood on the ramparts to inhale the cool and delicious -air. The shades of night had scarcely -hidden the face of the country from our view, -when the moon, rising in all her grandeur, threw -a pale light around, and tipped with silver the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">74</a></span> -battlements of those venerable towers built by -the Moors, which for centuries had endured, and -had frowned defiance on the flitting shadows of -many generations, gliding by their grey walls unheeded -and forgotten. As we gazed in sweet contemplation -on the surrounding scenery, all nature -seemed hushed, and the universe sunk into -slumber, when suddenly the bell of a monastery -close at hand tolled loudly, and in the gentle -breeze, at intervals, we heard the solemn dirge of a -religious procession, which, by degrees, arose on the -ear, and gradually encreasing became louder, and -swelled into such an awful bass strain, as one might -conceive to inspire reflection in the firm, horrors -in the nervous, and all the terrors of purgatory in -the dying. The long procession of monks passed -us, wrapped in their sombre drapery, as if they -had emerged from the very bowels of the earth. -The scene was impressive. After we had retired, -my slumbers were disturbed by the horrors of the -nightmare; and, when the merry rays of the -sun sparkled in at the windows the next morning, -I felt as if delivered out of some dungeon, longed -for the camp, and hoped that, should fate cut -short my career, the sun and moon might alternately -throw their rays over my expiring body, -rather than that I should die a lingering death, surrounded -by wax tapers and priest-craft, and then<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">75</a></span> -buried in satin and gold, and finally extinguished -by a basket of quick lime.</p> - -<p>On the 20th of July we descended into the -valley, and, at the edge of a wood, awaited -the coming of the division, from an advanced -camp on their way to Castello de Vida. -Every eye was on the stretch, and in the distance -we descried a cloud of dust rolling towards -us, the bright sparkling rays of the sun-beams -playing on the soldiers' breast plates, when -suddenly the leading regiment of the light division -burst forth; their bronzed countenances and -light knapsacks, and their order of march, all -united to inspire a conviction that their early discipline -had not only been maintained amidst privations, -battles and camps, but had become matured -by experience. They had traversed mountains, -and forded rivers; the grim and icy hand of -death had grasped many in the unhealthy marshes -of the Alentejo, and with sure effect had scattered -balls amidst their ranks without distinction: yet -the remainder of these veterans were still bent -onwards, to gather fresh laurels in the rugged -and uncertain paths of fortune. Seven regiments -of light infantry and riflemen defiled before us -with their thread-bare jackets, their brawny -necks loosened from their stocks, their wide and -patched trowsers of various colours, and brown-barrelled<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">76</a></span> -arms slung over their shoulders, or -carelessly held in their hands, whilst a joyous -buzz ran through the cross-belted ranks, as their -soldier-like faces glanced towards us to greet -many of their old comrades now about to join in -their arduous toils after a long separation. A -cloud of dust alone marked their further progress -as they receded from our view. Following in succession, -we brought up the rear. At the expiration -of an hour's march, we entered a wood, formed -column, called the roll, and the whole division -was then dismissed. The assembled multitude of -voices, the tearing and cutting down of branches -of trees, crackling of fires, rattling of canteens, -shooting of bullocks through the head, and the -hurrying of parties of soldiers for rum and biscuit -for rations, the neighing of horses, braying -asses and rampant mules, all resounded throughout -the forest, giving new life and merry echoes -to its most intimate recesses. Groups of officers -stood in circles; every countenance seemed decked -in smiles, and a hearty welcome greeted us -from all hands.</p> - -<p>Under the wide-spreading branches of a venerable -cork-tree, decorated with pack-saddles, accoutrements, -and other military trappings, dinner -was served up and laid out on a pair of hampers, -which served us instead of a table. Beef, biscuit, -tea, rum, and wine, composed our fare, it being a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">77</a></span> -usual custom to join breakfast and dinner, so as to -make one meal serve for the twenty-four hours, -the troops merely halting to cook and refresh -themselves during the heat of the day. A more -happy meal, I can safely say, I never partook of; -and with infinite admiration did I regard the -purple jackets and battered epaulettes of my companions. -Our small keg of wine being emptied, -the word passed to pack up and accoutre; and, -in an incredibly short space of time, the column -re-formed. The "assembly" sounded (the signal -of march) threes, from the right of companies, the -bands struck up, and at the end of two hours' -march, and towards nightfall, we entered another -wood. The same ceremony gone through as already -described, the blankets were spread out, the -earth our bed, knapsacks our pillows, and the -overhanging trees our canopy; the busy hum of -life no longer vibrated through the bivouac, and -thousands of soldiers slumbered and reposed their -weary limbs, lying scattered throughout the forest, -or around the dying embers of expiring fires. -My companions insisted on stretching themselves -on each side of me, protesting that they ought to -do thus, as a protection against cold for the first -two or three nights, since a very heavy dew fell, -so as almost to wet through the blankets, notwithstanding -the great heat of the weather by day. -For some time I was unable to close my eyes,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">78</a></span> -owing to some insects flocking up my legs in -swarms, and creating much irritation.</p> - -<p>Let us, for a moment, withdraw the veil of -futurity, and make a few anticipations. On my -right tranquilly slumbers a youthful warrior of -sixteen years old, and on my left unconsciously -sleeps the other, one year older. Lieutenant E. Freer -is doomed to undergo two more years of the toils of -war, to suffer sickness and privation, and, at the -sanguinary assault of Badajoz, to receive a severe -wound in the upper part of the thigh; and lastly, -at the age of nineteen, while in the Pyrenees, a -ball passes through his right arm, and enters his -side: he staggers, utters three words, and falls a -lifeless corpse amid those dreary regions!</p> - -<p>Lieutenant J. Considine, at the assault of Badajoz, -receives a ball through his body, and, stretched on -the damp sod, enveloped in darkness, bleeds inwardly. -A light is held over his pale face, and -discovers the blood flowing from his mouth. -Borne, however, to a place of security, he recovers. -The next year he is tormented by a malignant -fever, and afterwards, on the highest pinnacle of -the Pyrenees, a ball strikes him; his thigh-bone -is broken near the hip: he cries for help. I look -down: he lies prostrate between my legs. The -balls carry death and destruction around: we are -under the walls storming a fort, and fighting hand -to hand. Four soldiers attempt to carry him off,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">79</a></span> -and, not being aware of the place of his wound, -hoist him up, and turn his left foot outwards over -his shoulder; by which means the thigh-bone is -completely broken asunder. His screams are -dreadful, and two of the soldiers fall dead, pierced -with balls. The battle ended, he is carried to a -place of security, where he eventually recovers!—and -he now commands the 53d regiment.</p> - -<p>Early the next morning we were again on the -road. The martial music struck up, and continued -to play for a short distance: the word -passed to march at ease: conversation then commenced. -The soldiers lighted their pipes; and, -before the sun had reached its meridian, we filed -into Portalegre. The streets were marked off, in -the first instance, for different corps; then the -houses, again, subdivided amongst officers and -soldiers; the latter portioned off according to the -size of the different dwellings; the butt ends of -the soldiers' firelocks serving as knockers, to rouse -the sulky inmates, who would fain plead ignorance -of the arrival of so many guests. It was by no -means an uncommon occurrence for owners of -houses to try all kinds of expedients, by absence, -paltry excuses, or otherwise, to drive away the -tired officers in disgust, who presented billets of -lodgement. One day, an officer on the staff had -patiently waited some time at a door without -being able to gain admittance, until at length the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">80</a></span> -<i>patron</i> walked up from the street and feigned -civility, making a low bow, and saying to the -officer, "<i>Senhor</i>, I have no key;" when the -officer returned his salute, coolly lifted up his -long leg, and applied it to the door with such -force that it flew open at the first blow—then -turning to the astonished Portuguese, said -"<i>Senhor, tiengo bon chave</i>"<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor"><sup>12</sup></a>, and at a slow -march and with clanking sabre, took possession -of the house. From that day he was known by -the appellation of <i>Bon chave</i> throughout the army.</p> - -<p>Another division entered the town the same day. -The army was composed of eight divisions of infantry, -besides cavalry and artillery; the former -force was known throughout the army by the -following familiar appellations: "the gentlemen's -sons," "the surprisers," "the fighting division," -"the supporters," "the invisibles," "the never -heard of," "the all-sorts," and "the division:" -but, before the end of this most sanguinary war, -they all fought again and again, covering themselves -with fame and lasting glory.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">81</a></span></p> - -<p>The following day we proceeded to Castello de -Vida, an ancient fortified place within a league of -Marvao. The first brigade entered the town, and -the second bivouacked in a grove without its -walls. The adjacent country presented a wild -appearance; but more particularly the latter -town, which was perched on a rugged and stupendous -mountain, inaccessible on every side, -save only one approach, and even that impracticable -for carriages, the road winding under the overhanging -shelving of rocks, others of which reared -their rugged points in the very middle of this -(hardly to be so termed) pathway. A party of us -with difficulty ascended to this strange place, at a -season of the year when every particle of vegetation -is parched and dried up. The adjacent grey -precipices presented a frightful wilderness,—the -hiding-place of innumerable wolves. The mind of -the beholder on surveying such a prospect became -perplexed how so barren a spot, even at the -remotest period of antiquity, should have been fixed -on for any human habitation, far more for a fortification. -Some cannon of ancient construction were -still on the ramparts, but few mounted, and even the -carriages of those mouldering to decay. Here and -there a few miserable Portuguese were observed -basking in a sunny corner, grouped and huddled -together, and consisting of young and old women<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">82</a></span> -with dark countenances, and still darker tresses, enveloped -in shabby blue cloth cloaks, and extracting -<i>piochos</i> from each other's heads; that occupation -being the greatest source of delight and amusement -amongst them. Their general food consisted -of roasted chesnuts, washed down with -cold spring water—which caused their teeth to -decay at a very early age; and when they could -procure a little dried fish, or <i>sardines</i>, with black -sour bread, they would consider it a point of luxury. -The extreme heat of the weather, and the exertions -that we had used to reach this spot, created excessive -thirst; looking round, therefore, in search of -a house of entertainment, we espied a leafless -branch of a tree suspended over a doorway, which -bespoke the object of our search. On our entering -and demanding wine, the corner of a pig-skin was -untied, out of which spouted the wine into a -filthy measure. It was strongly impregnated with -the taste of the skin, about milk warm, and exceedingly -thick, owing to its having been recently -removed from a mule's back. These animals are -usually loaded with two dried pig-skins, sewed up -and slung across a pack saddle for the conveyance -of wine from one place to the other—the muleteer -being astride in the middle, and, above all, singing -a wild air, and beating time with his heels -against the bags.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">83</a></span></p> - -<p>Quitting this isolated place, and returning to -our quarters, we remained there two or three days, -and then resumed our march towards the northern -frontier. The first night we halted in a wood -near Niza. The next morning, an hour before -day light, we started; and, while passing over the -summit of a high hill, as the morning dawned, we -observed a thick mist overspreading an extensive -valley. As the sun rose, its refulgent light -pierced through the white fog, which resembled -a beautiful floating sea, out of which peeped forth -the tops of hills covered with investing shrubs. -As the rolling mist passed away, so these -apparent islands enlarged, until nothing of this -enchanting illusion remained, except a bare country -covered with <i>gum cistus</i>, (a small tree,) producing -a most sickly smell, and the more particularly -to those with empty stomachs. After a -fatiguing weary march, half suffocated by heat, -added to which our eyes, nose, and mouth, were -filled with sand, we descended the pass of Villa -Velha, where we observed a number of vultures -perched on the pinnacles of inaccessible rocks, as -if watching our motions, or waiting in anticipation -of more devoted victims.</p> - -<p>Crossing the Tagus by the bridge of boats, we -bivouacked under the agreeable shade of an olive -grove. The surrounding scenery presented every<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">84</a></span> -where a beautiful, romantic, and grand spectacle; -the river foamed over the rocks that had fallen -into its dark stream from the overhanging crags. -The narrow road running at the base of the adjacent -mountains was filled with loose stones; woe, -therefore, to the sore-footed soldier who happened -to stumble amongst them! Woe to the sick or -wounded to whose lot it fell to be placed in those -Portuguese cars, rudely constructed, with small -solid wooden wheels, revolving on an unoiled -axletree, and causing an indescribable creeking -noise to be heard at a very considerable distance; -sounds so horrible, that the bigotted peasantry declare -they frighten away the evil spirit of Old Nick -himself!</p> - -<p>The jolting of these vehicles frequently tore off -the plasters, and ripped open anew the wounds of -the suffering soldiers; nor was it at all unusual to -behold the sick, wounded, and dying, with pallid -countenances expressive of unheard-of agonies, -while these engines of torture, drawn by a pair of -bullocks, with their heads thrust under a shapeless -piece of wood, (for the purpose of yoking them -together,) rolled on their heavy way. The conductor -guided them with a long pole, with a piece -of pointed iron at the end of it, which he poked -into the beasts' necks, and directed them by such -sort of "sharp practice."</p> - - - -<div class="footnote"> -<p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11">11</a> Massena.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12">12</a> A jargon mixture of the Portuguese, Spanish, and French -languages was frequently resorted to in our anxiety to make -ourselves understood by the natives, and when one word failed -another was substituted. An officer who had just entered the -country was most anxious to procure an egg, and having failed to -make himself understood, as a last resource, he cut a piece of -<i>pipe-clay</i> into the shape of an egg, and was instantly supplied.</p> -</div> - - - - -<hr /> - -<div class="chapter"> - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">85</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER V.</h2> -</div> - -<blockquote> -<p class="hang">March continued—Wild and striking aspect of the country—Excellence -of discipline—Camp followers—Spanish peasant -girls and men—Plain of Fuente de Guinaldo—Reflections on a -soldier's life—A vegetable conflagration—Village of Martiago—Difficulties -of the French—Arrival in cantonments—The -paymaster's peculiarities.</p> -</blockquote> - - -<p>Continuing our route through the town of Castello -Branco and several villages, we obtained to the -left a view of the tremendous ridge of snow-capt -mountains of the Sierra d'Estrella. The barrier of -bare and rugged rocks towards the Spanish side, -when gilded by the departing glare of the setting -sun, assumes the grandest appearance, and, in the -revellings of imagination, a thousand palaces of -burnished gold may be fancied amid these adamantine -rocks, vieing with each, other in height -and endless variety of form. Afar off, an old -monastery might be descried, perched on the summit -of bare and wild precipices; its spiral turrets<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">86</a></span> -shooting on high, and encompassed by the immensity -of space; the frowning battlements -overhanging the valley below, and threatening to -overwhelm the passing traveller with loose -stones and crumbling ruins—while the deep tones -of the monastic bell chimed the vesper hour. On -a solitary eminence a lonely shepherd stood, -tending his flock, with a carbine slung across his -shoulder, and a couple of wolf-dogs crouching at -his feet, their necks encircled by strong iron collars -bristling with long spikes, to protect them -against the gripe of the voracious wolves. All -around seemed of other times in this precipitous -part of the country, composed principally of solid -rock. The rude hand of time had identified towns -and villages with their primitive stones; houses -had fallen to decay, but nothing new had arisen on -the ruins; streets branched out, but it was no wise -uncommon to find huge rocks, of many tons -weight, sticking up in the middle of them, never -having been removed, and leaving the traveller the -option of a choice of one of the two narrow roads -round these natural obstacles.</p> - -<p>As the division threaded its march over winding -and difficult roads, its horse-artillery might be -heard rumbling in the rear, while the winding -notes of the bugle horns echoed in the distant -valleys. Major-General R. Craufurd commanded<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">87</a></span> -the light division. His arrangements and regulations -of march stood unrivalled: at the expiration -of every hour, the division formed close -columns of regiments, and halted for about ten -minutes; the leading corps were generally again -marching off by the time the rear came up. -When any obstacles came across the line of route, -each officer, commanding a company, saw that -they were closed up before he put them into the -regular marching pace, and that even if a break in -the column happened of fifty yards between each -company. I have frequently witnessed the whole -division marching in this manner through a difficult -country, by which means they were always -in hand, ready to engage by companies. If a man -found himself exhausted between the halts, the -senior officer of the company ordered him to have -a ticket, which he was obliged to hand over on his -arrival in camp, or to shew to any one who questioned -him on the road as to his authority for -being absent from his corps.</p> - -<p>The code of discipline was very strict; but every -one knew exactly that which was required of him, -and, in the event of any irregularity even on the -line of route, amidst wilds and mountains, no -matter where, the column was closed up <i>instanter</i>, -and a summary punishment inflicted on the spot. -This was far from harsh treatment: it was lenity<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">88</a></span> -in the end; it preserved the health of the soldiers, -by keeping them in their ranks; it maintained -discipline and concentration, the great requisites -in war; it prevented marauding on the inhabitants; -soldiers were debarred from coming -to unpleasant collisions and assassin-like encounters; -and thus peace and harmony were established -among those whom we were bound to -defend. The followers of the division (and of the -army) were composed of lank Barbary bulls and -bullocks; mules loaded with bags of biscuit, kegs -of rum, kegs of ball cartridge, reserve ammunition; -a few hardy women (mistresses, or wives -of soldiers) mounted on strong and weak asses; -Portuguese boys, drivers; officers' milch goats; -purveyors and medicine chests; and sometimes a -few suttlers, headed by a man better known by the -name of <i>Tick</i>, owing to his giving credit to officers -in precarious times. This person, by the bye, -as a natural consequence, would lay on an enormous -per centage for small articles of luxury; -disposing of bread itself at nine shillings a four-pound -loaf. Tea, sugar, and brandy in a proportionate -ratio.</p> - -<p>On the 9th of August we emerged from Portugal, -and passed Albergeria, a village on the Spanish frontier. -My astonishment and curiosity were highly -excited on observing the extraordinary difference<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">89</a></span> -between the natives of Spain and Portugal, and -that it could be possible, for people living so near -one another, to be so dissimilar in complexion, -costume, and manners,—even when inhabiting respectively -the banks of a narrow stream, which -holds its course near the frontier of the two -kingdoms, being scarcely two yards wide, and -only ankle deep.</p> - -<p>The merry Spanish peasant girls came forward -with bold smiles and strutting steps, greeting us in -familiar terms, such as <i>Vivan los Ingleses</i>; <i>vivan -los Coluros, y Mil años a ustedes</i>; then pulling out -their castanets, jumping and saying, <i>den nosotros la -musica: vivan los Ingleses</i>. Others came running -forward with pitchers, and, against all rules, broke -the ranks, insisting on supplying the soldiers with -water. Some of them were extremely pretty; -their lively manner and becoming costume made -them appear to great advantage. Their complexions -generally are of a fine healthy brown, -they have sparkling black eyes, and dark hair -combed back and tied in a knot with a bunch of -black ribbons, hanging down their backs; their -jackets of brown or blue cloth are laced up the -front, and slit open at the sleeves, so as to display -a white chemise. Their petticoats are of -various bright colours, reaching just below the -knee; and their stockings are red, blue, and white,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">90</a></span> -most fancifully worked up the middle of the calf -of the leg; their feet are remarkably small, with -silver buckles in their shoes, besides gold or silver -ornaments in their ears and round their necks. -When going to church or visiting each other, they -wear a black cloth mantilla over the head, and -held across the breast with both hands. On entering -a place of worship, they cross themselves -quickly and drop down on the pavement on both -knees, looking very devout, unless some object of -attraction happens to catch their attention. The -male peasantry are hardy and well-made, but by -far the shortest race of men I ever saw in any -other country, although their picturesque dress -gives them the deceptive appearance of a height -which they really do not possess. Their principal -amusement out of doors is the game of hand -ball, or throwing an iron bar with the right hand -a considerable distance, and also pitching it betwixt -their legs in various other ways which may -suit their fancy. On sundays and fête days they -dance <i>boleros</i> with their village maids, who beat -time with their castanets and sing when music -cannot be procured. That favorite dance is formed -by four or eight couple standing opposite one another, -not unlike the formation of a quadrille party. -The male attire in the province of Leon is a large -<i>sombrero</i>, or broad-brimmed hat, with a wide black<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">91</a></span> -ribbon tied round it; a brown jacket slit open at -the sleeves; a blue or green velveteen waistcoat -decorated with two rows of long-shanked silver -buttons, and cut out at the breast, showing a -white shirt, handsomely plaited or worked, with -a collar about half an inch wide, fastened with a -clasp. The belt round their waists is of durable -leather, about five inches broad. Their breeches -are dark brown, stockings of similar colour, with -shoes and silver buckles. When they go out, or -during holidays, they envelope themselves in large -brown cloaks, which they throw gracefully over -the shoulder, and conduct themselves with a manner -and deportment very far beyond the peasantry -of other countries. Their villages are built -in a cluster round good churches, the body of -those edifices towering high above the small -houses of one story high that encircle them. The -floor is usually composed of earth beat down to a -hard substance. There is no glass in the windows, -which are merely small square apertures, -one foot by six inches, divided by an iron bar, -with a little shutter on hinges, which is closed at -night. Their usual furniture consists of a bedstead, -wool or straw mattress, covered by very coarse -sheets and blankets, a table, two or three forms -with backs to them, a large chest with a partition -for the double purpose for stowing away flour<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">92</a></span> -and holiday apparel. Sometimes in winter a -brass pan with handles is used under the table, -which they fill with hot embers to keep their -lower extremities warm. The only chimney in -the house is in the kitchen, where they use a small -iron lamp filled with <i>aziete</i> or oil, and burn wood -from their neighbouring forests; and when afar -removed from woods, and that article becomes -scarce, charcoal is substituted for cooking. Their -usual food is sausages, garlic, and chocolate, the -latter made into cakes ready sweetened, but only -used as a luxury, and mixed so thick, that a tea -spoon will stand upright in it. The bread is extremely -white, and compressed, without yeast, -made in the shape of a pancake, being ten inches -in diameter, and about two inches and a half -thick, and weighing four pounds.</p> - -<p>The women wash by the side of streams, and -continue to dip the articles in the water, and then -strike them on a large round stone, on which they -kneel, and, finally, lay them on the ground to dry; -by which means they bleach their linen very white.</p> - -<p>It is curious to observe a mother dressing a -young child: after putting on its petticoat, she -rolls several yards of coarse cloth so tight round -the body of the infant, that a stranger would conceive -it would be unable to respire, as its little -arms stick out horizontally.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">93</a></span></p> - -<p>We continued our march over the plain of -Fuente de Guinaldo, and within half a league of -that place took up our ground in a wood, where -we encamped, that is to say, cut down branches -of trees, and constructed huts; and although the -canopy of heaven, or a rudely formed hut, for -months in succession, was the only shelter for the -troops, the bivouac resounded with merriment, -and afforded frequent good cheer. For my own -part, I felt perfectly happy; my eyes and inclinations -were directed towards the front; I felt myself -securely lodged on <i>terra firma</i>, and no longer -a sort of amphibious animal. I had escaped the -dreadful fever and mortality of Walcheren, nor -could I well call to mind the having ever experienced -a day's serious illness. This was about -the period of the year when the sickly season -commenced; but I flattered myself that any impression -on my unimpaired constitution was quite -out of the question; in fact, I never troubled myself -with gloomy thoughts: a wide field was now -open, to which I looked forward with great anticipation, -little dreaming of the example that was -about to be visited, in the space of a short week, -on my active limbs.</p> - -<p>What situation is superior to the camp? and -what period of a soldier's life is called to mind in -such glowing colours as the days of youth, when he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">94</a></span> -was reclining under the shady branches of a forest -oak, surrounded by young companions in arms, -with light pockets and still lighter hearts, cheerfully -talking to each other of glittering and moving -armies, and all the imposing grandeur and -pomp of war?—or fancy him nourishing the -fonder feelings, and expatiating on the beauty of -some foreign damsel, by whose wit and graces all -hearts are captivated; while many another, more -constant, indulges the fond hope of once more -clasping the native mistress of all his thoughts to -his arms, on his return to his own shores.</p> - -<p>Spain, of all countries, tends to produce in the -mind the most romantic thoughts, from the salubrity -of its climate, its diversified scenery, clear -sky, and bright sun—a sun which shines throughout -the summer from morning till night, so that -to those who sleep under the canopy of heaven -all days seem the same, and when summer closes -and clouds darken the atmosphere, the preceding -season appears to the imagination as one continued -day. These and many other feelings are indelibly -fixed on the mind of a soldier, who closes his eyes -on the highest mountains, in the deepest vallies, -in woods, in morasses, in dusty, parched, and arid -plains, or amid orange groves, luxuriant gardens, -and beneath the marble fountain; or amidst -frost and snow—the inmate alike of the palace, or<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">95</a></span> -of the peasant's menial hut—one night reposing -on a bed of down, enveloped by satin drapery, -the next stretching his tired limbs on the ground, -or on a miserable bed filled with vermin—one -hour gazing on the sumptuous, light, flowing -drapery and satin slipper of the graceful <i>señora</i>, -the next on the ruddy healthy cheek of the more -humble <i>muchacha</i>. All these opposite changes -attend the soldiers' career in rapid succession.</p> - -<p>But lo! dinner is served up and announced. -A truce to reflections! While we were employed -handling our knives and forks, displaying a hungry -dexterity, and bolting morsels of unchewable ration -beef, a smoke was observed issuing from a valley, -in the direction of our outposts, a mile to the -front, which continued to increase, and then burst -into a flame. A gentle wind blew towards our -bivouac. The blaze increasing, and extending -with great velocity, the cry of "fire," resounded -from all quarters—"The camp's on fire." All -was confusion; officers and soldiers seizing their -baggage, ammunition, and horses. In the mean -time, some tore large branches from the trees, -and advanced to check the devouring element, -the dried corn burning and whizzing towards us -with the noise of a whirlwind; the heat was excessive; -opposition was useless; the trees of the -forest blazing away like a whisp of straw; and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">96</a></span> -the whole brigade were <i>en déroute</i>, flying to save -their lives, by reaching the road, where the second -brigade had hastily formed, with boughs in their -hands, as a last effort to endeavour to repel this -vast conflagration. Fortunately the wood here -ended, and the grass burnt itself out to the edge -of the sandy road, which was one of great width, -such as are frequently met with in the open parts -of Spain. Had I not been an eye-witness to so -quick and extensive a devastation made in a short -time, I could hardly have pictured to my mind -such a grand and awful spectacle.</p> - -<p>Taking up fresh ground for the night, we descended -in the morning the precipitous banks of -the river Agueda, leading to the remote village of -Martiago, nearly at the base of the Sierra de -Gata. On the night we entered it, a pack of famished -wolves devoured a donkey, and tore the -hind quarters of a horse away. The poor animal -was found in the morning, having crawled from -his ferocious pursuers into the middle of the village -for refuge, in that miserable condition.</p> - -<p>Ciudad Rodrigo was to be reconnoitred. As -convoys of stores and provisions were expected -from Salamanca, through the great forest, of four -days' march, between those places; and as Don -Julien Sanches, with his Guerillas, hovered about -ready to cut off all small parties, the French were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">97</a></span> -under the necessity, with incalculable inconvenience, -to assemble their army, stretched -over a great extent of country, to keep the inhabitants -under control, to protect their hospitals, -levy contributions, and to make perpetual countermarches -in order to keep open their line of -communication.</p> - -<p>On the 11th of August, before daylight, our -division was bending its course over ravines, and -almost impassable pathways, to show front during -a reconnoissance made by Lord Wellington, who -usually wore in the field, at this period, a small -low-crowned cocked hat, a blue pelisse coat, and -a Hussar sash.</p> - -<p>The sun blazed forth as usual, (for not a drop -of rain had fallen since I had put my foot into the -country), and biscuit and rum were served out to -refresh the exhausted soldiers; a humble refection -which no one would think of grudging -to those who had been under arms for ten hours, -under a burning sun, and crowning the highest -hills without a bush to shelter them, or a drop of -water to refresh their parched lips.</p> - -<p>With my rum in one hand, making a shallow -appearance at the bottom of a soldier's tin, and my -mouldy biscuit in the other, I beheld an officer -approach me, in the act of drawing from his bosom<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">98</a></span> -an old ragged black silk neck-handkerchief worn -out in the service, and now converted into a -pocket-handkerchief. He fumbled it over for a -whole corner to apply his nose to; and during -this operation, his eyes were fixed on my tin. -After a variety of hems, coughings, and such like -indications, he took courage to beg that I would -permit him to dip his dry biscuit into my shallow -allowance of rum, to moisten his lips: his request -being granted, and thanks returned for the given -relief, he told me that, in the hurry to grasp his -share, he had unfortunately upset it on the ground, -and had the additional mortification to see it dry -up in an instant.</p> - -<p>We were spread out rank entire within sight of -the garrison, for the governor to suppose our -force stronger than it really was, so that he might -inform the Duke of Ragusa, and oblige him to -bring up and deploy his whole army, for the -protection of his intended convoy.</p> - -<p>Late in the evening we reached our cantonments -in good spirits, though well tired, but not so much -so as to prevent my making a good meal. Turning -into a small recess, and getting into bed for -the first time for weeks, after some hours I awoke -rather feverish, went to the door in my shirt to -cool myself, and found the air so refreshing that I<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">99</a></span> -continued stationary for a considerable time, certainly -much longer than my prudence ought to -have dictated; however, I did not feel any ill -effects from it at the time.</p> - -<p>On the day following, our paymaster was encircled -by a group of officers, who were listening -to his odd remarks, relative to warfare. He declared -that he hated <i>bullets</i> and <i>swords</i>, but with -fists he flattered himself he was able to cope with, -and would not turn his back on any man. "Oh!" -said he, "how I should like to see a fine boiled leg -of pork, and a pease pudding, smoking before me; -why the very thought makes me ravenous, and I -could eat any thing, from a gnat to an elephant; -yes sir, I could eat an elephant stuffed with militiamen!" -Then with both hands, pulling his -cheeks, his breeches and his waistcoat, for in -quarters he actually wore the identical dress he -had joined the regiment in; "Look at these," -said he, "why they fitted me as tight as a drum -before I came to this cursed country; and look -at them now! Well, only let me get my wife -on my knee by my comfortable fire-side once -more, and, if ever I leave old England again, -may I be ——! and as my poor brother <i>did -die</i>, I wish he had taken his departure before -he ever persuaded me to enter the army!"</p> - - - - -<hr /> - -<div class="chapter"> - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">100</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER VI.</h2> -</div> - -<blockquote> -<p class="hang">The author is attacked by illness—Miseries of military travelling -in that condition—Quarters at Celorico—The author's difficult -recovery—Grievous sufferings endured by the soldiers affected -with fever in the sickly season—Death of the Paymaster—The -author rejoins his Division—Movements of the -French—A clerical case of disaster—The contested mattress—A -dance—Expensive celebration of Christmas—Story of the -German suttler—Village and neighbourhood of Fuente de -Guinaldo—Theatrical representations by the English officers.</p> -</blockquote> - - -<p>Three days after our long reconnoissance I -became blind with ophthalmia, was seized with -violent rheumatic pains in the soles of my feet, -and took to my bed. My legs and knees swelled -to an enormous size, first turning red, then blue, -and I was no longer able to move.</p> - -<p>Many other officers became sick, and were ordered -to the rear. I for one, mattress and all, was -shoved into a Spanish car. Our feelings during -the passage of the Agueda were indescribable.—Ye -invalids, stretched on your beds of down! -comfort yourselves; submit to your pains with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">101</a></span> -Christian philosophy, and bless your lucky stars -that you did not belong to the army of Portugal. -Rejoice that your very lives are not shaken out of -you by such ups and downs; first over one rock, -then over another, and dragged along by bullocks -sometimes forced into a run, owing to the steepness -of the adamantine roads. I could no longer -bear the terrible pain. In my shirt, with my -legs enveloped in bandages of the car, I begged -and entreated to be lifted out, being quite -helpless and blind. To get on a mule's back was -quite out of the question, my legs and knees were -so inflamed. At length some sick soldiers offered -to try and carry or rather drag me from rock to -rock. First I got a jolt on one side, then an unintentional -bump on the other; the men were -exhausted; and I entreated them to hold up -my feet, (while my head lay in the road), for -I could not bear them on the ground. At the -end of the second day's tormenting journey, we -entered Castel Nero. The cars were drawn round -a stone fountain, and while waiting for our billets -from the <i>Juez de Fora</i>, the howling of wolves -was distinctly heard in all directions, amid the -surrounding woods and rocks.</p> - -<p>For five burning days we travelled from morning -until nightfall at the rate of a mile an hour<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">102</a></span>. -Each night I was dragged out of the car, mattress -and all, shoved into some horrible recess that was -almost alive with vermin, and replaced in my uneasy -vehicle in the morning for the continuation -of the journey. On the fifth day, when within two -leagues of Celorico (the place of our destination), -we drew up, as Major Ellers of our regiment requested -that he might rest for a short time, since -he could no longer bear the jolting of his vehicle; -in a few minutes however he expired, and his -body was carried forward and interred.</p> - -<p>The heat of the weather was almost past endurance. -On our arrival at Celorico, with an -empty room for my quarter and the floor for my -resting place, I remained sixty days nearly immoveable, -my only covering a filthy blanket, -which had been stained all over from my mule's -sore back. On the journey it had been placed -under the animal's pack saddle to save its back, -by day, while in turn I had the benefit of it as a -covering by night. In this miserable plight, -what with bleeding and blistering, and long confinement, -I had become a perfect skeleton, and -reduced to the most wretched condition. Five -medical officers came to hold a consultation at -the foot of my mattress, and, having examined -my now lank legs, and big feet, they assured me,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">103</a></span> -that they could not hold out any hope of a speedy -recovery, and even doubted whether I should -ever again be enabled to straighten my right leg, -the knee of which had become contracted during -the pains of my rough journey. The staff doctors -held out every inducement to persuade me to go -to England, by first offering a spring waggon to -convey me to Lisbon. My suffering had been -great, my arms hung nearly useless by my side, -my legs refused their office: yet I still cherished -the hope, that they would again, carry me forward. -Doctor Mac Lean most kindly pressed me -to acquiesce in their advice, but without effect: -(poor gentleman—I understood he died a few days -subsequently of a fever!)—how could I leave the -army, whom I found amongst mountains feeding -on hard biscuit and drinking rum impregnated with -the mosquitoes? A pretty warlike story to recount -at home! The very thought was frightful! More -bleeding and blistering were therefore resorted to, -by which means, added to a good constitution, at -the expiration of another month I was enabled -with the assistance of crutches to reach my window, -the trellis work of which being thrown open -offered me ineffable delight at once more enjoy -the sight of a few living objects in the street.</p> - -<p>The rain now fell in torrents for days together,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">104</a></span> -and thousands of British and Portuguese soldiers -(now crowding the churches which had been -converted into hospitals) were dying by hundreds, -of fever produced by the sickly season. The excruciating -torments, suffering and privations of -the common soldiers were such, that an adequate -description is impossible,—many of them lingering -in raging fevers, stretched out on the pavement, -the straw that had been placed for their comfort, -having worked from under them during their -agonies, while hundreds of flies settled on and -blackened their dying faces: and so stationary did -these tormentors become, that those who still -maintained sufficient power were obliged to tear -them from off their faces, and squeeze them to -death in their hands. Cars piled up, and loaded -with the remains of these unfortunate victims to -disease, daily passed through the streets for the -purpose of pitching their bodies into some hole -by way of interment. The medical officers were -overpowered by the numbers of sick, and also fell -ill themselves, so that it was a total impossibility, -notwithstanding their strenuous efforts, to surmount -all difficulties, and to pay that attention to -all that could have been wished. The very hospital -orderlies were exhausted by attending, burying, -and clearing away the dead. These scenes of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">105</a></span> -misery cannot be fancied: the sick pouring into -the town, lining the streets, and filling every -house, set at nought all theoretical conception.</p> - -<p>Our paymaster entered the town with a raging -fever. His hopes were not realized: he never again -beheld his wife or his comfortable fire side. At -the end of a few days' anguish he expired, and -was buried with the rest.</p> - -<p>Captain Poppleton was the commandant at -this station. Officers of other corps held similar -commands (with certain privileges) at <i>Belem</i>, -<i>Santarem</i>, <i>Niza</i>, and other towns for the purpose -of regulating quarters for the sick and stragglers -of the army.</p> - -<p>At the expiration of four unhappy months I -became so far convalescent, as to be enabled to -proceed to join my corps. I counted every step -forward which carried me further from the hated -and detestable <i>dépôt</i>, where every surrounding object -depicted misery, and where, when the <i>lively</i> -army happened to be in motion, such gloomy reports -were spread, as to intimidate the sick and frighten -the convalescents out of the country. Having -passed through Guarda, Sabugal, and several -miserable Portuguese villages, at the expiration -of five days I reached Fuente de Guinaldo, the -head quarters of the division. It is unnecessary<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">106</a></span> -to say that a hearty welcome hailed my arrival, -and various interesting incidents, which had occurred -since I left, were related by my companions, -but none were more agreeable to my sanguine -mind, than to hear that the division had not -fired a shot during the time of my absence; so far -dame Fortune had befriended me.</p> - -<p>The enemy, under the Duke of Ragusa, had -advanced on the 25th of September to throw provisions -into Rodrigo, and had attacked the fourth -division at Adea de Ponte, and part of the third -division, who had distinguished themselves against -the French cavalry on the heights near El Bodon, -they having made several vain efforts to break their -little squares for two leagues over firm charging -ground; little, I repeat, because the regiments -composing the brigade were very weak in point of -numbers.</p> - -<p>The light division was stationed on the right -bank of the Agueda, hovering on the enemy's -left flank; but, owing to the central attack, it -was obliged to march <i>à détour</i>, so as to accomplish -a concentration with the third division -at Fuente de Guinaldo. This was done with -the loss of one man, and that was the <i>parson</i> -attached to the division, who had entered a -house and turned snugly into bed, while the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">107</a></span> -soldiers were shivering on the ploughed ground -with keen appetites. During the night, the troops -retrograded a short distance, suffering all the while -from cold. The march was much impeded owing -to a trifling stream in the road, and other obstacles, -which the soldiers could not at first surmount, for -the extreme darkness. By some accident the -parson was not aware of this movement. Towards -morning, while wrapped in the arms of Morpheus, -he felt a gentle tap, and on opening his leaden -eyelids, he saw four French heavy dragoons -wrapped in white cloaks, with weather-beaten -visages and huge mustachios, (crowned by brazen -helmets, surmounted with tyger skins,) hanging -over him in deep consultation on the best way of -disposing of his person. The debate closed by -their allowing him to put on his sable garments, -to be conveyed a prisoner to the governor of -Ciudad Rodrigo, who, on being informed of his -harmless pursuits, gave directions for his liberation, -so that he might go in search of the English -army. On his being conducted to the gate of the -town, the French soldiers rudely divested him -of his coat and waistcoat, using their feet besides, -in a most unceremonious manner, and left -him to pursue his journey in his shirt sleeves.</p> - -<p>Although the house occupied by the officers of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">108</a></span> -the company was small, they declared that I -should not seek a bed elsewhere; and one of -my friends assured me that he would soon -supply me with that article. Without further -ado he hastily retired, and in a few minutes -we heard a great uproar in the street, and, -making for the door, we found my friend -running towards the house loaded with a mattress -on his back, and pursued by a woman out -of whose house he had taken it. Rushing into the -room breathless and convulsed with laughter, he -threw it on the floor, which he had no sooner -done than the furious owner burst in, and, laying -violent hands on it, began to tug away, showering -forth a string of Spanish imprecations, too numerous -to mention, but easily to be guessed at by -those who have heard such refined salutations -from an enraged Spanish <i>muger</i>. It was not -until her strength had entirely failed her that she -would admit of an explanation; but, on money -being offered her, she turned away indignantly; -and as she had not shown any relaxation of the -muscles of her brown visage, and her large black -eyes continued to express unutterable things, the -officer thought it better to reload himself and return -that which, in a frolicsome moment, he had -carried off with so much dexterity; but the woman<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">109</a></span> -pulled it from off his shoulder, and, with all the -natural generosity of the sex, gave him the use of -it, (as it was for a convalescent comrade,) as long -as it might be required.</p> - -<p>A dance was to take place that evening. The -officers, therefore, put on their best uniforms, and -decorated themselves with all the precision and -care used when about to attend a ball of a more -enlightened circle.</p> - -<p>On entering the room we observed the females -decorated in their best attire and trinkets. The -band struck up a <i>bolero</i>; that being concluded, -the male peasantry retired, leaving their mistresses -to hop down our country dances, and to instruct -us in those figures we had attempted to -teach them. Generals, and all ranks, mixed in -these rustic dances, where a variety of little coquetries -were practised on the half-enamoured -swains. The smell of garlic was scarce tolerable; -but these were no times for niceties.</p> - -<p>Every effort was exerted to do ample justice to -Christmas. The different officers' messes dined -alternately with each other, to partake of lean -roast beef and plumb pudding. Poultry was procured; -in fact, no expense was spared. A four -pound loaf cost a dollar; moist sugar three <i>pecetas</i> -a pound, and every other commodity equally expensive;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">110</a></span> -still the festive board was well supplied, -and the evenings most joyfully spent.</p> - -<p>One of the suttlers who had taken post with our -division, to amass a fortune, was a German of -ordinary appearance with a pretty wife. Here it so -happened that our serjeant-major, a man of portly -figure, was possessed of more small talk than usually -falls to the lot of men in his station of life; and, -being remarkably fond of good living, and other -amusements, proved a very losing customer at the -above worthy suttler's shop, who could not help -seeing the decline of that stock which he had -brought from Lisbon at so much expense; besides -other annoyances which he <i>could not see</i>. -He, therefore, in a fit of extreme irritation, without -his hat, made for the commanding officer's -quarters, where he entered unceremoniously, and -then laid bare all his wrongs. "<i>Sare</i>," said he, -"<i>your serjeant major is a very bad man. He -drinky my wine. He eaty my sugar. He drinky -my tea and my coffee. He kissy my vife, and he -kick * * *. Sare, your serjeant-major is a -very bad man.</i>"</p> - -<p>Every morning the officers were engaged rehearsing -their different parts, or superintending the -making of theatrical dresses, (as the tragedy of -Henry IV was to be performed by various officers,)<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">111</a></span> -and scene painting. The latter was principally -executed by Bell, (the assistant quarter master -general of the division,) in an old chapel, within -one hundred yards of the village, which had been -gutted of its ornaments by the French or the -priests.</p> - -<p>The compact and small village of Fuente de -Guinaldo stands on an eminence in an open -plain, encircled at a certain distance by a number -of stone crosses, said to have been placed there -by the peasantry to frighten away evil spirits. -There are no enclosures, no out-barns, or farm -houses, in this part of Spain, which gives the -plain during winter a very lonely aspect, skirted -as it is by a distant wood, and a ridge of wild -mountains on the summit of which is a monastery, -which is only to be seen on a clear day; -for if the weather is at all hazy, it is enveloped by -clouds. The communication from one village to -another, is a sort of track beaten into the shape of -a road by the footsteps and small traffic of many -generations.</p> - -<p>The natives of this part of the country form a -little colony, unmixed by a second order of society, -as there is no resident beyond the rank of a -peasant, the principal holding the authority of -<i>Alcalde</i>, and completely governing the village in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">112</a></span> -all judicial affairs. He exercises his power with -mildness, which is perceptible in the independent -manners of the people.</p> - -<p>The girls sing very pretty airs in praise of some -renowned chieftain, or of her who happens to be -the acknowledged beauty. Maria Josepha, of -Fuentes de Onor, was the happy <i>Moza</i> whose -charms were extolled at this period: but what -most struck my attention was a song about -Marlborough's knowing how to make war, and -sung to the same tune as in England. The -mothers lull their children to sleep by it; and -when bodies of troops enter towns, or the girls -dance <i>boleros</i>, this is a general tune. I inquired of -a <i>muchacha</i> where she learnt it; she opened her eyes -with a ludicrous surprise, and made answer, in the -quick witty manner usual amongst the Mozas, -"Why, of my grandmother,—<i>Que edad tiene V. -M?</i>"<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor"><sup>13</sup></a>—by way of giving me a hint not to consider -myself the instructor.</p> - -<p>The long expected night of performance having -arrived, written bills of the play having been -distributed throughout the village (which was -filled like a bee hive with officers who had come from -a considerable distance from other divisions of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">113</a></span> -the army, with flowing camlet cloaks, and mounted -on <i>boricos</i>, mules, and ragged-mained stallions;) -and tickets being issued for pit and boxes, we -moved in Bacchanalian groups towards <i>el Teatro</i> -(or chapel). It was crammed to excess, as we -had not forgotten to reserve some room for <i>los -soldados</i>. The curtain no sooner drew up, than -the wonder of the <i>Muchachas</i> knew no bounds, -and they became so loquacious in admiration of -the scenery and dresses, and in disputing among -themselves which was <i>el Principe</i>, and which the -various characters the officers were to personify, -that it was a considerable time before they could -be so far tranquillized as to permit the performance -to proceed, which, however, went off with -great eclat. "Poins, and be hanged." Alas! -no. Poor Poins was badly wounded, and blown -up a few days after!</p> - - - -<div class="footnote"> -<p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13">13</a> How old are you?</p> -</div> - - - - -<hr /> - -<div class="chapter"> - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">114</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER VII.</h2> -</div> - -<blockquote> -<p class="hang">Preparations for the siege of Ciudad Rodrigo—A review of the -light Division by Lord Wellington—The fort and convent of -Saint Francisco taken—Storming the breach—Capture of the -place—Regulations for the prevention of plunder—Disorders -committed in the city—Remarks and anecdotes connected with -the siege—Burial of General Craufurd—Removal of quarters -to El Bodon—Vestiges of the previous engagement near that -place—Ciudad Rodrigo consigned to a Spanish garrison—March -towards Badajoz—Castello de Vida—Fortress of -Elvas—An accidental acquaintance.</p> -</blockquote> - - -<p>At the expiration of some months' travail by the -engineer department, in procuring stores from -various places, active operations were commenced -to collect them near at hand,—such as the battering -train, cannon balls, ammunition, gabions, -fascines, scaling-ladders, sand bags, shovels, -spades, pickaxes, &c.—for the purpose of laying -siege to Ciudad Rodrigo, (in the province of -Leon,) which stands on an eminence on the right -bank of the river Agueda, surrounded by an -open country, and was garrisoned by two thousand -French soldiers. The walls of the fortress are -rather more than a mile and a quarter in circumference,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">115</a></span> -enclosing monasteries, convents, and -churches,—which gives the city at a distance -the appearance of an immense gothic castle.</p> - -<p>A few days previously to the siege, Lord Wellington -reviewed the light division on the plains of -Guinaldo. He was dressed in full uniform, and -merely rode down the line, looking at the troops -in a cheerful manner. Just as his Lordship was -leaving the ground, which was covered with snow, -General Craufurd appeared, and soon after the -troops returned to their quarters. The second -brigade came from Martiago, and returned that -night—an immense march. A few days subsequently -to this review, the whole division was -concentrated, the first brigade moving to La -Encina, the second to El Bodon. During this -march a tremendous storm of sleet and snow took -place; the snow froze and adhered to the horses -hoofs, forming balls which raised them several -inches from the ground. Fortunately, the march -was short, as fatigue-parties of soldiers were -obliged to return to prop up the weak and staggering -baggage-animals, that had suffered previously -from bad provender.</p> - -<p>On the 8th of January, 1812, the light division -crossed the Agueda, <i>sans culotte</i>, (<i>a cooler!</i>) at a -ford about four miles above Ciudad Rodrigo. The -day was fine, and, indeed, during the operations -of the siege, the atmosphere was mild for the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">116</a></span> -season of the year, although sometimes frosty of a -morning.</p> - -<p>The division bivouacked for some hours two -miles from the town. When the darkness had set -in, three hundred soldiers drawn from the 43d, -52d, and the rifle corps, moved under the command -of Colonel Colborne<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor"><sup>14</sup></a>, to assault the fort of -Francisco. The enemy fired about two rounds; -our good troops did not allow more time, and the -fort was taken. It was situated on a rising -ground, six hundred yards from the town, was of -a square form, with two small howitzers, "<i>en -barbette</i>," and had a garrison of two officers and -forty soldiers, who were made prisoners. Six or -eight others either were killed or escaped into the -town, where the drums began to beat to arms, -and a furious fire of shot and shell opened on us, -while digging a parallel close to the captured fort; -the earth being thrown up on the town side. The -land is arable, and bestrewn with loose stones, -which were flying on all sides from the impulse -given by the cannon balls, and the bursting of -shells, which were exploding on every side, -killing and maiming many soldiers.</p> - -<p>The great convent of Saint Francisco, in the -suburb, was carried a few days before the storming -of the town, and also the ruined convent of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">117</a></span> -Santa Cruz. On the morning of the 14th, about -five hundred French soldiers made a sortie from -the city, and before they retired were very nearly -succeeding in entering the batteries, where the -battering cannon had been placed the night -before. The twenty-four pounders were of iron, -mounted like field guns, on handsome carriages, -painted lead colour.</p> - -<p>An hour before dark on this day, the batteries -opened within six hundred yards of the -ramparts for the purpose of battering in breach. -The first, third, fourth, and light divisions, employed -in the siege moved by turns from their -cantonments, each taking a twenty-four hours' -spell.<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor"><sup>15</sup></a></p> - -<p>On the 19th of January, the light division was -ordered to the assault out of its turn. During the -greater part of the day we remained cooking -behind the convent of the Norbortins, a most -splendid ruin, with very extensive cloisters,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">118</a></span> -situated close on the right bank of the Agueda, -three miles S. E. of the town. Soon after three -o'clock we moved towards the ground occupied by -the foot guards, who were halted one mile and -a half from the suburbs of Ciudad Rodrigo. These -troops came forward to wish us success, and our -band struck up the <i>fall of Paris</i>. The third -division occupied the trenches, and the garrison -must have observed the march of the light division -from the ramparts,—extra troops! The governor -should have pondered on it! If he had kept a -sharp look-out, he must have been expecting the -assault.</p> - -<p>There were two breaches effected in the walls -of this town. By the small breach the large one -was taken in reverse.</p> - -<p>At half-past six o'clock the light division was -formed behind the convent of Saint Francisco, -near the suburb, and almost exactly opposite to -the small breach, and about four hundred yards -from it. The third division, under General Sir -Thomas Picton, was also formed behind the ruins -of Santa Cruz, and in the trenches opposite the -large breach. All was silent, four or five shells -excepted, which were thrown by the enemy into -our left battery, and fell not a great distance from -our column. Now, if the governor thought that -the assault was preparing, he ought not to have<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">119</a></span> -fired at all from the ramparts, as it prevented the -approach of the troops from being discovered by -the ear.</p> - -<p>I heard the town-clock strike seven, and at the -same time saw a match lighted in one of the -embrasures—(very awful!) at that moment the -"forlorn hope," headed by Lieut. Gurwood, of the -52d, and the storming party (composed of three -hundred soldiers, with a proportion of officers) -moved on, carrying a number of bags, filled with -dried grass, to lessen the depth of the <i>fausse braie</i> -and the ditch. In a few minutes they were on the -brink of the ditch, and the fire of the town opened -briskly on them. There was a sort of check, -but no longer than might be expected, as they -had to scramble in and out of the <i>fausse braie</i>, -and then to jump into the dry ditch; but having -gone too far to the left, the advance got on the -wrong side of the tower, which was not breached, -and the soldiers, for a few seconds, were knocking -with the butt-ends of their fire locks against the -wall, crying out "Where's the breach?" for -although the enemy were firing rapidly from the -top of the wall, still the troops, on first descending -to the bottom of the ditch, were in total darkness. -This state of suspense lasted, however, -a very short time, for two soldiers, stumbling on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">120</a></span> -the loose rubbish, called out "Here's the breach," -and Lieut. Gurwood<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor"><sup>16</sup></a> led up it; but the French -swore they should not enter, and fought most -desperately on the crest of the breach, throwing -down large stones and missiles, and keeping up -a most deadly fire. Here many brave officers -and soldiers fell. General Craufurd received a -mortal wound, and fell into his aide-de-camp's -arms, on the glacis, while cheering on the main -body of the division. Major General Vandeleur -and Colonel Colborne were wounded. How the -troops contrived to force the breach I know not: -I can only say that it was well done. The breach -was exceedingly steep: about five yards wide at -the top, having a cannon, of heavy calibre, placed -sideways, to block up the passage; however, -there was a clear yard from the muzzle of the -gun to the wall, a sufficient space for one or two -soldiers to enter at a time, besides those who could -pass underneath the muzzle of the gun, or over -the wheels of the carriage.</p> - -<p>The moment the division entered, a number of -soldiers rushed to the right, along the ramparts, -to the large breach (<i>one hundred and fifty yards</i>), -and then engaging those of the French who were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">121</a></span> -still firing on the third division, absolutely drove -them over the breast-work, on to the large breach. -At this time a wooden spare magazine, placed on -the rampart, exploded, and blew up some French -grenadiers, and many of the light division. Lieutenant -Pattenson, of the 43d, and Lieut. Uniacke, -of the rifle corps, were of the number. This -occurred just behind the traverse, which, on the -enemy's right, confined and guarded the great -breach.</p> - -<p>On ascending the small breach, directly after -it was carried, I found myself with the crowd. -Lieut.-Colonel M'Leod managed to collect, with the -assistance of some other officers, on the rampart -about two hundred soldiers of our regiment, and -was exhorting them to keep together. At this -time there was not any firing on us, with the -exception of a few stray shots from the opposite -buildings; but there was sharp musketry still at -the great breach.</p> - -<p>I ran towards the large breach, and met -an officer slowly walking between two soldiers -of the rifle corps. I asked who it was, when he -faintly replied, "Uniacke<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor"><sup>17</sup></a>," and walked on. One -of his eyes was blown out, and the flesh was torn -off his arms and legs. He had taken chocolate, -with our mess, an hour and a half before!</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">122</a></span></p> - -<p>The regiment was now formed, and Colonel -M'Leod immediately detached officers with -guards, to take possession of all the stores they -could find, and to preserve order. These parties -ultimately dissolved themselves. If they had not -done so, they would have been engaged in the -streets with our own troops.</p> - -<p>Colonel M'Leod caused Lieutenant Madden, of -the 43d, to descend the small breach with twenty-five -men, ordering him to continue at the foot of -it during the night, and to prevent soldiers leaving -the town with plunder. At eleven o'clock I -went to see him; he had no sinecure, and had -very judiciously made a large fire, which, of -course, showed the delinquents to perfection, who -were attempting to quit the town with plunder, -in the garb of friars, nuns, or enveloped in silk -counterpanes, or loaded with silver forks, spoons, -and church plate, all of which was of course taken -from them, and was piled up, to hand over to the -proper authorities on the following day. He told -me that no masquerade could, in point of costume -and grotesque figures, rival the characters he -stripped that night.</p> - -<p>The fire was large, and surrounded by the dead -bodies of those who fell in the first onset at the -foot of the breach. The troops must have rushed -up and taken the latter without hesitation: had the -governor of the town only placed a few obstacles on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">123</a></span> -the crest of the breach, he must have stopped the -entrance of the light division altogether. He had -time, as the firing from our batteries ceased two -hours before the assault, and then from the rampart -there was a gentle slope into the town, leading -into a narrow lane, which was blocked up with a -cart only, leaving a sufficient space for one person -to pass at a time. The Governor was most culpable! -There was no musquetry from any part of -the ramparts until the head of the light division -column was close to the small breach.—Amongst -others lay Captain Dobbs, of the 52d, on his back, -at the foot of the breach, and stripped of his -uniform. An officer at first thought he was a -Frenchman, who had tumbled headlong during -the strife from the top of the breach; but, while -he was holding a piece of lighted wood, to contemplate, -with admiration, his extremely placid -and handsome countenance, even in death, a -captain of the 52d knew it to be the body of poor -Dobbs. On lifting him up, the blood flowed -copiously from his back, a musket ball having -entered at the breast, and passed through his -body.—A soldier of the third division came up to -me and said, "Captain Hardyman, of the 45th, is -killed!" for although three generals and seventy -other officers had fallen, yet the soldiers fresh -from the strife talked of him; and if a soldier's -praise can add to a man's fame, certainly no one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">124</a></span> -had a greater share than Hardyman; he was the -real type of a soldier, and kind to every one.</p> - -<p>When the troops had sipped the wine and the -Cogniac brandy in the stores, the extreme disorders -commenced. To restore order was impossible; -a whole division could not have done it. -Three or four large houses were on fire, two of -them were in the market-place, and the town was -illuminated by the flames. The soldiers were -drunk, and many of them for amusement were -firing from the windows into the streets. I was -talking to the regimental barber, private Evans, in -the square, when a ball passed through his head. -This was at one o'clock in the morning. He fell -at my feet dead, and his brains lay on the pavement. -I then sought shelter, and found Colonel -M'Leod with a few officers in a large house, -where we remained until daylight. I did not -enter any other house in Ciudad Rodrigo; and -if I had not seen, I never could have supposed -that British soldiers would become so wild and -furious. It was quite alarming to meet groups -of them in the streets, flushed as they were with -drink, and desperate in mischief.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the 20th the scene was -dreary; the fires just going out; and about the -streets were lying the corpses of many men who -had met their death hours after the town had -been taken. At eleven o'clock, I went to look<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">125</a></span> -at the great breach. The ascent was not so -steep as that of the small one, but there was a -traverse thrown up at each side of it on the rampart; -hence there was no way into the town, -as the wall was quite perpendicular behind the -breach. When the third division had gained the -top of the rampart, they were in a manner enclosed -and hemmed in, and had no where to -go, while the enemy continued to fire upon them -from some old ruined houses, only twenty yards -distant.</p> - -<p>I counted more than sixty-three soldiers of the -third division lying dead on the <i>terre-plein</i> of the -rampart exactly between the traverses I have already -described. I did not see one dead soldier -of that division on the French side of those -traverses; but I saw some of the light division.</p> - -<p>I saw General M'Kinnon lying dead on his -back, just under the rampart, on the inside, that -is, the town side. He was stripped of every -thing except his shirt and blue pantaloons; even -his boots were taken off. He was a tall thin man. -There were no others dead near him, and he was -not on the French side of the traverse either, nor -was there any possibility of getting at the General -without a ladder, or traversing a considerable -distance along the ramparts to descend into the -town, and then passing through several narrow -lanes, ruined houses, and over broken stone walls<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">126</a></span> -being a distance of at least a quarter of a mile, and -what no human being could have accomplished -during the night. It is said that he was blown -up. I should say not. There was no appearance -indicating that such had been his fate. Neither -the state of his skin nor the posture in which he -was lying, led me to think it. When a man is -blown up, his hands and face, I should think, -could not escape. I never saw any whose face -was not scorched. M'Kinnon's was pale, and -free from the marks of fire. How strange, that -with the exception of the General, I did not see a -soldier of the third division who had been stripped! -Neither was there any officer among the -dead, or else they had been carried away. I -should not wonder, (if it is not uncharitable,) that -the General had been killed with all the others -between the traverses, and that some <i>tender-hearted</i>, -follower of the army had taken his -clothes off, and then just given him a hand over -the wall, and so placed him in the position described.</p> - -<p>The two divisions attacked without knapsacks. -The greater portion of the light division lay at the -foot of the <i>small breach</i> in the ditch; hence it -was that they fought on the slope, and rolled -down in succession as they were killed; but, on -gaining the ramparts (there being no interior -defences) they followed the French right and left,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">127</a></span> -who retreated, panic-struck, into the interior of -the city, keeping up, however, a running fire -from the different streets, or the massive stone -buildings.</p> - -<p>The third division, at the first onset, were fired -on from the parapets of the ramparts, and assailed -by missiles and live shells, which were rolled -from the summit of the wall: but the enemy did -not stand on the crest of the great breach to oppose -their ascent; for, if they had, it would have -been impossible to escape behind their traverses. -The enemy had left a space for one man to pass at -a time, on the left of the right traverse, but expecting -the attack, they had previously blocked it up -with barrels filled with earth, having placed others -behind to stand on for the purpose of firing over -them. Before the morning, all these barrels, -except one, were thrown down the scarped wall. -The fact is, that the third division mounted to -the <i>terre-plein</i> with facility; but when on the -rampart, they were fired on in front and both -flanks, as before described, and in this small -space, they suffered a tremendous loss of nearly -five hundred heroic officers and soldiers. During -the fighting, their dead and wounded were piled -one on the top of the other, crying out in agony -as they were trampled upon, and impeding the -progress of others, who exerted themselves in -vain amongst such havoc to carry the traverses.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">128</a></span></p> - -<p>The moment the wooden magazine blew up, -all firing nearly ceased, for the enemy literally -jumped over the right entrenchment on to the -<i>terre-plein</i> of the great breach, to save themselves -from the bayonets of the light division. A young -Italian officer there seized Captain Hopkins, of the -43rd, round the neck, and implored his life.</p> - -<p>At about eleven o'clock in the morning (of the -20th) the great explosion took place a few yards to -the right of the <i>small breach</i>, blowing up the <i>terre-plein</i> -of the rampart, four yards in breadth and ten -in length. This fatal explosion (which was accidental, -owing to some sparks of fire igniting some -barrels of gunpowder in a casement,) happened -while the French garrison were marching out of -the city by the <i>small breach</i>, which had become so -hard, owing to such numbers of soldiers walking -up and down it, as to make the ascent nearly -impracticable. The French, as well as the British -soldiers, were carried up into the air, or jammed -amongst the rubbish, some with heads, arms, or -legs sticking out of the earth. I saw one of the -unfortunate soldiers in a blanket, with his <i>face</i>, -<i>head</i>, and <i>body</i>, as black as a coal, and cased in a -black substance like a shell; his features were no -longer distinguishable, and all the hair was singed -from off his head, but still the unfortunate man -was alive. How long he lived in this horrible -situation I cannot say.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">129</a></span></p> - -<p>A tall athletic soldier of the 52d lay amongst -the dead at the foot of the breach, on his back; his -arms and legs being at their full extent. The -top of his head, from the forehead to the back part -of his skull, was split in twain, and the cavity of -the head entirely emptied of the brains, as if a -hand-grenade had exploded within, and expanded -the skull, till it had forced it into a separation -with the parts ragged like a saw, leaving a gaping -aperture nine inches in length, and four in breadth. -For a considerable time I looked on this horrible -fracture, to define, if possible, by what missile or -instrument so wonderful a wound could have been -inflicted; but without being able to come to any -conclusion as to the probable cause.</p> - -<p>From this place I walked to the convent of -Saint Francisco to see a wounded friend. The -interior was crowded with wounded soldiers lying -on the hard pavement. A soldier of the third -division was sitting against a pillar, his head bent -forward, and his chin resting on his breast, his -eyes open, and an agreeable smile on his countenance. -For half a minute I stopped with surprise to -observe him sitting in so contented a posture, surrounded -by the groans of his companions. At -length, I addressed him, but, no answer being returned, -I called a doctor, under the impression that -the man was delirious. On the contrary, we found -he was quite dead.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">130</a></span></p> - -<p>In the afternoon we returned to our quarters by -regiments across the stone bridge, having been -relieved by the fifth division, which came from -the rear, and took charge of the city.</p> - -<p>A few days after the assault, most of the officers -of the light division attended General Craufurd's -funeral. He was buried under the wall near the -small breach.</p> - -<p>In a few days we moved from La Encina to El -Bodon, where our principal amusement consisted -in playing at rackets, with wooden bats, against -the side of the church, or riding about the country.</p> - -<p>One day we visited the heights about half a -league from this place, where, on the previous -September, a brigade of the third division had -been engaged. Many skeletons of the French -horses lay in deep ravines, or on the shelvings of -rocks, to the very summit of the ridge, on the -crest of which some of the Portuguese gunners -were cut down; and where for a short time the -cannon remained in the hands of the enemy. It -must have been at this moment that the second -battalion of the fifth regiment retook them by -charging in line, before the enemy's cavalry had -time to form. I rode up the ragged ground myself -with the utmost difficulty; the ground near -the summit was so steep that the Portuguese, while -throwing balls into the valley, could not see the -advance of the French cavalry until quite upon<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">131</a></span> -them. Not that I wish to detract from the deserts -of the Portuguese; but, as it has been stated that -they stood to their guns to the last, I only wish -to demonstrate how it happened. The very print -of the wheels of the cannon were still indented in -the ground, and showed, to an inch, where they -had stood.</p> - -<p>The whole of the dead French soldiers lying in -the valley were stripped, and in a perfect state of -preservation, blanched like parchment by the alternate -rain and sunshine; and their skins had -become so hard, that the bodies on being touched -sounded like a drum. The vultures had picked -the bones of the horses perfectly clean, but had -left the soldiers untouched; and, although <i>four -months</i> had elapsed since they had fallen, their -features were as perfect as on the day they were -killed. Some of these soldiers were gracefully -proportioned, and extended in every possible -attitude.</p> - -<p>The rubbish of the breaches at Ciudad Rodrigo -having been cleared away, the parapets built up -with gabions and fascines, all the trenches filled -up, and a garrison of Spanish soldiers left for its -defence—at the latter end of February we marched -towards Badajoz, for the purpose of laying siege -to that fortress, a distance of one hundred and -sixty miles, the road more than half way lying<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">132</a></span> -through the rocky provinces of Portugal, where -the villages are generally built on the tops of the -highest mountains, with the remains of Moorish -castles, or towers, studding the wildest rocks and -the most tremendous precipices.</p> - -<p>We remained a week at Castello de Vida, then -resumed our march, and, on the 16th of March, -entered Elvas, the principal fortress on the -frontier of the Alentéjo, three leagues distant -from Badajoz. It is situated on a hill, flanked on -the right by a fort or citadel, half a mile without -its walls, and on the left by the fort La Lippe, -which stands on a scarped hill, a mile from the -town.</p> - -<p>While quartering off the soldiers, I observed a -very pretty young lady looking out of a casement, -which occasioned her house to be selected for our -quarter. In the evening, myself and messmate -were invited to take chocolate and sweetmeats -with the family; and, before retiring, the good -old <i>Senhora</i> remarked our youthful appearance, -and begged that, should either of us be wounded, -we would come to her house. My companion was -subsequently shot through the body, and, being -conveyed back to Elvas, the mother and daughter -kindly watched over him until he was perfectly -recovered.</p> - - - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14">14</a> Now Major General Sir John Colborne.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15">15</a> During the siege, the enemy threw a vast quantity of shells. -One night two mortars kept up an incessant discharge; and the -soldiers called out "Here comes a shell from <i>big Tom</i>; and here -comes another from <i>little Tom</i>." All the cannon shot that flew -over our trenches lodged on a hill one mile north of the town, -at the base of which was a <i>spring</i>, where I saw a soldier killed -while stooping down to fill his canteen with water. This hill, -owing to its being so ploughed up with balls, was familiarly -named by the soldiers <i>plumb-pudding hill</i>.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16">16</a> Lieutenant Gurwood took the governor of the fortress -prisoner.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17">17</a> He died in excruciating agony.</p> -</div> - - - - -<hr /> - -<div class="chapter"> - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">133</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> -</div> - -<blockquote> -<p class="hang">March from Elvas to Badajoz—Defences of that city—The investment—A -sortie—Operations of the batteries—Capture of -fort Picurina—Preparations for the grand assault—Advance of -the "forlorn hope"—Desperate encounter at the breaches—Loss -of life experienced by the British—The mode of attack -changed to escalade with success—The city sacked by the -British troops—Reflections respecting the conduct of the -siege—Incidental anecdotes.</p> -</blockquote> - - -<p>On the morning of the 17th of March we formed -contiguous columns, outside the walls of Elvas, -and entering a spacious plain, passed the river Guadiana -by a pontoon bridge, a few miles below Badajoz, -which was garrisoned by nearly five thousand -French soldiers. It is situated on the margin of the -left bank of the Guadiana, in the province of Estremadura, -in Spain, and encompassed by an open -country, without a tree, a shrub, or even a hut to be -seen without its walls. The ramparts are about two -miles in circumference, and were protected by -the forts San Cristoval, Napoleon, and the <i>Tête<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">134</a></span> -de Pont</i>, at the head of the fine stone bridge, -which communicates with the right bank of the -Guadiana.</p> - -<p>The fort Picurina, the outworks of Pardalaras, -and the <i>lunette</i> of Saint Roque, constituted the -general outworks of the city, on the left bank of -the river.</p> - -<p>As we drew near the ramparts of the fortress, -we saw the flag of <i>three colours</i> majestically -waving on the top of the great lofty square tower, -in the centre of the old castle, which stands on -the summit of a hill, whose frowning battlements -overhang the town, and overlook the adjacent -plains for a considerable distance.</p> - -<p>The third, fourth, and light divisions invested -the city on the left bank of the Guadiana<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor"><sup>18</sup></a>.</p> - -<p>Our division bivouacked within one mile and a -half S.S.W. of the town, our position communicating -in a manner with the bridge of boats. -The day was fine; but at six o'clock in the evening -the rain began to fall in torrents, and continued -the whole night, which prevented the -enemy hearing the troops when they commenced -the first parallel, and the latter continued to work -all night without being molested.</p> - -<p>Before daylight on the 18th, the parties fell in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">135</a></span> -to relieve those of our division who had first broke -ground, a thousand yards S. E. of the town; we -had to make a quarter circle, which rendered the -march nearly three miles to the mouth of the -trench, where we arrived at daybreak, and I saw -the first shot; it was fired from the Fort Picurina, -and killed two poor fellows in the covering party -of the fourth division, which was formed under the -slope of a hill. In a few minutes the round shot came -up the road quite often enough to put our blood -into circulation; and we immediately took our -station under a small natural rise of ground, where -we remained covering the workmen for twelve -hours. The cannonade was pretty regular during -the day, both from the town and from Fort -Picurina.</p> - -<p>We returned to camp an hour after dark, and -I was surprised to find the division had been supplied -with Portuguese tents. I found my friend -waiting in one for me, and the canteens laid out -with all the affection of a youthful soldier. I had -been exposed in the rain for twenty-five hours, -and this was one of the happiest moments of my -life.</p> - -<p>On the 19th, at mid-day, the firing from the -town was very heavy; every one in the best position -for security, which it was not difficult to -obtain, as the trenches were well advanced, but<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">136</a></span> -every body cried "Keep down," for which truly -there was no occasion. Notwithstanding this -cry, Israel Wild, and another man of our regiment, -who was afterwards killed, (a splendid -soldier,) got on the top of the trench. I caught -hold of Israel's<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor"><sup>19</sup></a> jacket, to pull him down, but he -turned round, and said, in a most furious manner, -"We know what we are about;" then looking -forward for a moment, shouted, with an oath, that -the French were coming on, and instantly sprung -out of the trench like a tiger, following his comrade, -just such another fine fellow. Two or three -French dragoons at that instant fired their pistols -into the trenches, having approached within a few -yards without being perceived. We had just -entered the mouth of the first parallel, and all -joined in a simultaneous attack on the enemy's -infantry, without regard to trenches or any thing -else. The French being beaten out of the advanced -lines, retired and formed line under the -castle, having two field-pieces on their left flank. -I cannot say how they entered the town, there -was so much smoke covering them, when near -the walls. <i>General Philippon knew his business<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">137</a></span> -well.</i> Fourteen hundred men came out—two battalions.</p> - -<p>We had quite abandoned the trenches, and -approached near to the castle. I perceived two -soldiers of another division, who were stretched -close to where I stood: one was quite dead, a -round shot having passed through his body; the -other had lost a leg, his eyelids were closed, and -he was apparently dead. An adventurous Portuguese -began to disincumber him of his clothes. -The poor soldier opened his eyes and looked in the -most imploring manner, while the villain had him -by the belts, lifting him up. I gave the humane -Portuguese a blow with the back of my sabre, that -laid him prostrate for a time, by the side of the -soldier he was stripping.</p> - -<p>I know not what became of the wounded man, -as my attention was attracted by an extraordinary -circumstance. I saw a heavy shot hopping along, -till it struck a soldier on the hip; down he went, -motionless. I felt confident that the wounded -man was not dead, and begged that some of his -comrades would carry him off to the rear, (we -were now retiring under a heavy cannonade); -my words were at first unheeded, but two soldiers, -at the risk of their lives, rushed back, and brought -him in, or he, with many others, would have been -starved to death, between our lines and the ramparts<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">138</a></span> -of the town. His hip was only grazed, and -his clothes untorn; but, of course, he was unable -to walk, and seemed to feel much pain, for he -groaned heavily.</p> - -<p>The sortie took place about a quarter after -twelve; (<i>military time, quite correct</i>;) we were -filing into the trenches. The day was fine, and -the time well selected by the governor, as he concluded -that the front parallel would be vacant -while the relief was coming in; but there was an -order against that.</p> - -<p>The trenches were very extensive. The weather -again became bad, and our right battery was silenced; -but when the great breaching battery was -completed, it fired salvos, which the enemy returned -in a similar manner from a battery just under the -castle-gate, on a commanding situation. One -morning, at daylight, the enemy brought a light -gun out of the town to enfilade the right of the -front parallel; but as the relief came in at the -time, I do not know the sequel of it.</p> - -<p>The left of our lines, previously to the escalade -of Picurina, ran within about a hundred yards -parallel to it. One hundred of our regiment were -employed one night on the delightful job of carrying -the trenches across the Seville road. We -commenced at the distance of one hundred and -fifty yards from the fort. The instant the enemy<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">139</a></span> -heard the pickaxes striking on the hard road, -they opened, when, strange to relate, eleven -rounds of grape were poured on us, and yet only -one officer was hit. The gunners could not depress -their artillery so as to cover the spot we -were on.</p> - -<p>I was surprised that they used no musketry; -but I imagine they had orders not to do so at -night, unless an attempt was made to escalade the -fort.</p> - -<p>Picurina was situated on a rising ground, without -the least appearance of strength. Three hundred -of the enemy formed the garrison, and latterly -they were obliged to block up their embrasures -with sand-bags, to screen themselves from -the musketry of our lines; now and then they -cleared away to fire grape shot.</p> - -<p>Towards the end of the siege the weather became -beautiful. One day in particular, the enemy -scarcely fired a shot, all our troubles were forgotten, -and two or three of us amused ourselves -by reading a novel in the trenches.</p> - -<p>Lieutenant Wilkinson,<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor"><sup>20</sup></a> was among the wounded -on that day. There was a path across a field, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">140</a></span> -communicated with our grand battery, and an order -forbade any person to cross it in the day-time, as -the French were continually firing small arms -whenever any lazy-fellow took that road. Poor -little Wilky's curiosity was excited; he made a -start out of fun, was just entering the battery, -when alas! he fell, shot through the thigh.</p> - -<p>On the night of the 25th, a part of the third -division, and also one hundred of the light division, -carrying ladders, assailed Picurina, directed by -General Sir James Kempt, and for a long time -without success: no wonder! The ditch was -terrifically deep, and narrow at the bottom. The -soldiers walked round the fort, prying into all -corners, and got upon the gate, which they broke -down, and then entered, bayonets in advance. -The French grenadiers would not give in—a desperate -bayonetting took place, and much blood was -spilt; already five hundred French soldiers from -the town were at hand. The struggle continued -with hard fighting, inside and outside of the fort. -The enemy wished to vie with their comrades -who had defended Fort St. Christoval at the -former siege. Victory was some minutes doubtful; -at length the fort was taken, and the reinforcements -were beaten back into the town. I was -sitting at the door of my tent, and witnessed all -the firing.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">141</a></span></p> - -<p>The garrison of Badajoz fired every morning, for -a few days previously to the grand assault, a certain -number of rounds, as if for practice, and to -measure the ground.</p> - -<p>The first order for storming the breaches fixed -it to take place on the 5th of April. I was informed -that my turn for trench duty fell on that evening, -because the officer just preceding me was out -of the way. I resolved to play a like trick, and -for a like reason, namely, not to miss the assault. -I therefore got a friend to persuade the Adjutant to -allow that the men should march off without me, -promising to follow. This anecdote I relate, because -of the curious circumstance that it led to.</p> - -<p>When I was quite certain that the assault was -not to take place that night, I mounted my horse, -and, riding to the entrance of the first parallel, I -gave the animal to my batman, and proceeded on -foot. I had just crossed the trench, and got into -a field, taking a short cut, when I observed two -figures making towards me. There was not any -firing; a solemn silence reigned around. Coming -up at a half run, I put my hand to my sword, for -the night was clear, and I saw they were not soldiers; -they soon closed on me, demanding boldly, -and in Spanish, the way out of the trenches: I -pointed out the road to them, but, an instant after, -suspected they were not <i>Spaniards</i>, but spies. I<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">142</a></span> -noticed they kept their hands behind them, and I -thought it also very <i>civil</i> of them not to fire, for I -am confident they were well armed. "<i>Buenas -noches, Señor</i>," said they, and hastily retired. -When I reached the great battery, and found -every body in it asleep, I thought the place -bewitched. This was my last trip to the trenches. -Thirteen times I visited them during the -siege.</p> - -<p>A long order was issued relative to the positions -the troops were to occupy. On the 6th of April, -the day was fine, and all the soldiers in good -spirits, cleaning themselves as if for a review. -About two o'clock I saw Lieutenant Harvest of -our regiment; he was sucking an orange, and -walking on a rising ground, alone, and very -thoughtful. It gave me pain, as I knew he was to -lead the "forlorn hope". He observed, "My -mind is made up; I am sure to be killed<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor"><sup>21</sup></a>."</p> - -<p>At half-past eight o'clock that night the ranks -were formed, and the roll called in an under-tone. -Lieutenant-Colonel M'Leod spoke long and earnestly -to the regiment before it joined the division, -expressing the utmost confidence in the result of -the attack, and finished by repeating, that he left<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">143</a></span> -it to the honour of all persons to preserve discipline, -and not to commit any cruelty on the defenceless -inhabitants of the town.</p> - -<p>The division drew up in the most profound -silence behind the large quarry, three hundred -yards from the <i>three</i> breaches, made in the -bastions of la Trinidad, and Santa Maria. A -small stream separated us from the fourth division. -Suddenly, a voice was heard from that direction, -giving orders about ladders, so loud, that it might -be heard by the enemy on the ramparts. It was -the only voice that broke on the stillness of the -moment; every body was indignant, and Colonel -M'Leod sent an officer to say that he would report -the circumstance to the General-in-Chief. I -looked up the side of the quarry, fully expecting -to see the enemy come forth, and derange the -plan of attack. It was at half-past nine this happened, -but, at a quarter before ten, the ill-timed -noise ceased, and nothing could be heard but the -loud croaking of the frogs.</p> - -<p>At ten a carcass was thrown from the town; -this was a most beautiful fire-work, and illuminated -the ground for many hundred yards; two or -three fire-balls followed, and, falling in different -directions, showed a bright light, and remained -burning. The stillness that followed was the prelude -to one of the strangest scenes that the imagination -of man can conceive.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">144</a></span></p> - -<p>Soon after ten o'clock, a little whispering announced -that "the forlorn hope" were stealing forward, -followed by the storming parties, composed -of three hundred men, (one hundred from each -British regiment of our division;) in two minutes -the division followed<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor"><sup>22</sup></a>. One musket shot, <i>no more</i>, -was fired near the breaches by a French soldier, -who was on the look out. We gained ground -leisurely—but silently; there were no obstacles. -The 52nd, 43rd, and part of the rifle corps, closed -gradually up to column of quarter distance, left in -front; all was hushed, and the town lay buried in -gloom; the ladders were placed on the edge of the -ditch, when suddenly an explosion took place at -the foot of the breaches, and a burst of light disclosed -the whole scene:—the earth seemed to rock -under us:—what a sight! The ramparts crowded -with the enemy—the French soldiers standing on -the parapets—the fourth division advancing rapidly -in column of companies on a quarter circle to our -right, while the short-lived glare from the barrels -of powder and combustibles flying into the air, -gave to friends and foes a look as if both bodies of -troops were laughing at each other.</p> - -<p>A tremendous firing now opened on us, and for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">145</a></span> -an instant we were stationary; but the troops were -<i>no ways daunted</i>. The only three ladders were -placed down the scarp to descend into the ditch, -and were found exactly opposite the centre breach, -and the whole division rushed to the assault with -amazing resolution. There was no check. The -soldiers flew down the ladders, and the cheering -from both sides was loud and full of confidence.</p> - -<p>While descending the ladders into the ditch, -furious blows were exchanged amongst the troops -in their eagerness to get forward; at the same time -grape-shot and musketry tore open their ranks. The -first officer I happened to see down was Captain -Fergusson, who had led on our storming-party -here, and at Rodrigo; he was lying to the right of -the ladders, with a wound on the head, and holding -a bloody handkerchief in his grasp<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor"><sup>23</sup></a>. I snatched -it out of his hand, and tied it round his head. -The French were then handing over the fire-balls, -which produced a sort of revolving light. The -ditch was very wide, and when I arrived at the -foot of the centre breach, eighty or ninety men -were formed. One cried out, "Who will lead?" -This was the work of a moment. Death, and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">146</a></span> -most dreadful sounds and cries encompassed us. -It was a volcano! Up we went; some killed, and -others impaled on the bayonets of their own comrades, -or hurled headlong amongst the outrageous -crowd.</p> - -<p>The <i>chevaux-de-frise</i> looked like innumerable -bayonets. When within a yard of the top, I fell -from a blow that deprived me of sensation. I -only recollect feeling a soldier pulling me out of the -water, where so many men were drowned. I lost -my cap, but still held my sword. On recovering, I -looked towards the breach. It was shining and -empty! fire balls were in plenty, and the French -troops standing upon the walls, taunting, and -inviting our men to come up and try it again.</p> - -<p>Colonel M'Leod was killed while trying to force -the left corner of the large breach<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor"><sup>24</sup></a>. He received -his mortal wound within three yards of the enemy, -just at the bottom of some nine-feet planks, -studded with nails, and hanging down the breach -from under the <i>chevaux-de-frise</i>.</p> - -<p>At half-past eleven the firing slackened, and -the French detached soldiers from the breaches to -repulse the other attacks, and to endeavour to -retake the castle. I heard the enemy calling out<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">147</a></span> -on the ramparts in German, "All is well in Badajoz!"</p> - -<p>The British soldiers did as much as <i>men could -do</i>. The wood-work of the <i>chevaux-de-frise</i> was -ponderous, bristling with short stout sword-blades -fastened in it, and chained together. It was -an obstacle not to be removed, and the French -soldiers stood close to it, killing deliberately every -man who approached it. The large breach was -at one time crowded with our brave troops; I -mean the fourth division, the heroes of many -hard-fought victories and bloody fields. The light -division had recently been crowned with victory; -but to remove such obstacles was impracticable -by living bodies, pushing against them up a steep -breach, and sinking to the knees every step in -rubbish, while a fearless enemy stood behind -pushing down fragments of masonry and live -shells, and firing bullets, fixed on the top of -pieces of wood, the sides of which were indented -with seven or eight <i>buck</i> shot.</p> - -<p>Generals Picton, Colville, Kempt, Bowes, -Hervey, Walker, Champlemond, and almost every -officer commanding regiments, besides more than -three hundred officers, and between four and five -thousand gallant veteran soldiers, fell around these -walls.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">148</a></span></p> - -<p>The left breach<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor"><sup>25</sup></a> had not been attempted at all -until a quarter before twelve o'clock, when Captain -Shaw of our regiment<a name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor"><sup>26</sup></a>, collecting about seventy -men of different regiments, and with great difficulty, -after such slaughter for two hours, made a -desperate effort to gain the top; but when half-way -up, as if by enchantment, he stood alone. -Two rounds of grape and the musketry prevented -any more trouble, for almost the whole of the -party lay stretched in various attitudes!</p> - -<p>Captain Nichols<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id="FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor"><sup>27</sup></a>, of the Engineers, was of the -number; he now showed great courage; and -when asked by Shaw, if he would try the left -breach, answered he would do any thing to succeed. -A grape-shot went through his lungs, and -he died three days after.</p> - -<p>This attack was very daring. It was a forlorn -hope, under accumulated dangers; almost all the -troops had retired<a name="FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor"><sup>28</sup></a>, and, a few moments before, a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">149</a></span> -great alarm was excited by a cry from the heaps -of wounded, that the French were descending -into the ditch. To exaggerate the picture of -this sanguinary strife is impossible:—the small -groups of soldiers seeking shelter from the -cart-wheels, pieces of timber, fire-balls, and -other missiles hurled down upon them; the -wounded crawling past the fire-balls, many of -them scorched and perfectly black, and covered -with mud, from having fallen into the <i>lunette</i>, -where three hundred soldiers were suffocated or -drowned; and all this time the French on the -top of the parapets, jeering and cracking their -jokes, and deliberately picking off whom they -chose. The troops lining the glacis could not -fire sufficiently, as they were terribly exposed, -and could scarcely live from the cross fire of -grape-shot.</p> - -<p>Colonel Barnard<a name="FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor"><sup>29</sup></a> did all in his power to concentrate -the different attacks. It was in vain; -the difficulties were too great. But Badajoz was -not the grave of the light division's valour, nor of -the fourth division's either.</p> - -<p>Philippon, the governor, a <i>Frenchman</i>, and our -enemy, gave the full particulars of this affair to a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">150</a></span> -friend of mine, while travelling in England; he -said that he thought the great explosion would have -finished the business, but he was astonished at -the resolution of the British troops, who, he said, -were fine fellows, and deserved a better fate.</p> - -<p>The single musket-shot, fired just as the "forlorn -hope" descended the ditch, was a signal of -their approach, which shows how determined the -French were to have a good blow-up, for not a -ball was fired before the explosion. The efforts -of the garrison to preserve the place did them -much honour. Philippon was determined not to -do as the governor of Ciudad Rodrigo had done. -Had not the Earl of Wellington planned the two -extreme attacks by escalade, on the castle, by -the third division, and on the south side of the -town by part of the fifth division, and on the Fort -Pardalaras by the Portuguese, the result might have -been very serious. The Duke of Dalmatia was -within a few leagues, and opposite Generals -Hill<a name="FNanchor_30_30" id="FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30_30" class="fnanchor"><sup>30</sup></a> and Graham<a name="FNanchor_31_31" id="FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class="fnanchor"><sup>31</sup></a>. The Duke of Ragusa had -pushed his advanced dragoons as far as the Bridge -of Boats at Villa Velha, and at length got entangled -in the labyrinths of Portugal. I have heard -and read of sitting down before a town, <i>opening<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">151</a></span> -trenches, blowing up the counterscarp, and all -according to rule; but this was a crisis</i>, time was -precious, added to which the Guadiana ran in our -rear, and the pontoon bridge had been carried -away once during the siege, by the swelling of the -river.</p> - -<p>When the French soldiers found that the town -was falling by escalade on the south side, and -that the castle was lost to them, they made an -attempt to retake the latter by an old gate, leading -towards the town; that gate was pierced by their -musketry in numberless places. I never saw a -target better covered with holes. The third division -had in return twice discharged a gun through -it, which made two large holes. An old handspike -was placed under its breech to depress it, -and remained precisely in the same way three -days afterwards. The scaling-ladders were well -placed, <i>five</i> quite close together, against an old -round tower. Many slain soldiers had evidently -been pushed from off the parapet, and rolled -nearly fifty yards down the hill; some lay with -heads battered to pieces, whilst others were -doubled up, looking scarcely human, and their -broken limbs twisted in all directions.</p> - -<p>The third division had been obliged to cross the -broken bridge over the small river Revellas, rank -entire, (amidst a shower of grape-shot, bullets, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">152</a></span> -bursting of shells,) and during the work of death -to drag the unwieldy ladders up a rugged hill, to -plant them against the walls: their first effort -failed; many of the enemy then, contrary to -General Philippon's orders, evacuated the Castle, -and went to assist at the breaches. At this moment, -Lieutenant-Colonel Ridge of the fifth regiment -called on an officer of his corps, "There, -you mount one ladder, and I will lead up the -other. Come on Fifth, I am sure that you will -follow your commanding officer." <i>He was killed; -but the place was carried!</i></p> - -<p>Let us pause and reflect that this act of heroism -was executed after a long and fearful struggle, high -walls and defeat staring them in the face.</p> - -<p>The third division then filled the castle, and there -remained until day light. On the south side of -the town, General Walker's brigade of the fifth -division<a name="FNanchor_32_32" id="FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32_32" class="fnanchor"><sup>32</sup></a>, hearing the rolling fire at the breaches, -became impatient, and, with a simultaneous rush, -gained (by escalade) the top of the walls, and even -formed on the ramparts. On seeing a light, the cry -of a <i>mine</i> was set up, and a short panic ensuing, -the enemy at the same time charging forward at a -run with fixed bayonets and shouting loudly, these -troops were forced to give ground. An officer informed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">153</a></span> -me, that he had thrown himself over the -ramparts to save the colours of his corps, while -nearly surrounded by French grenadiers. This -bold fellow had the choice of either being pinned -to the wall, or the risk of breaking his neck: he -chose the latter. The rear regiment, however, fortunately -stood firm. Many of the enemy then -precipitately abandoned the town, accompanied by -the Governor, crossed the bridge, and shut themselves -up in Fort St. Christoval, on the other side -of the Guadiana; and the next morning surrendered -themselves prisoners of war. This brigade -continued to be <i>hotly</i> engaged in the streets during -the <i>whole night</i>. Some even asserted, that many -of the Spaniards fired from their windows on our -troops, and <i>held out lights</i> to guide the French; -knowing that their property would fall a sacrifice, -should the town be taken.</p> - -<p>The place was eventually completely sacked by -our troops; every atom of furniture broken; mattresses -ripped open in search of treasure; and one -street literally strewed with articles, knee-deep. -A convent was in flames, and the poor nuns in -dishabille, striving to burrow themselves into some -place of security; however, that was impossible; -the town was alive, and every house filled with -mad soldiers, from the cellar to the once solitary -garret.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">154</a></span></p> - -<p>When I examined the three breaches by day, -and witnessed the defences the enemy had made -for their protection, I was fully satisfied that they -were impregnable to men; and I do declare, most -positively, that I could not have surmounted the -<i>chevaux-de-frise, even unopposed</i>, in the day-time.</p> - -<p>Some <i>talk</i> that grappling-irons would have -moved them. Who would, who could have done it? -thousands of warlike French soldiers standing -firmly up to the points, not giving an inch, and -ready for the fight. They fought in the streets to -the last, and tried to retake the castle—<i>Que voulez-vous?</i></p> - -<p>The <i>chevaux-de-frise</i> were fixed after dark. -Round-shot alone could have destroyed these defences, -which were all chained together, and not -made in a temporary manner, as most military -men imagine, but strong and well finished; and -the enemy, behind all, had made a deep cut, over -which they had thrown planks, communicating -with the town, besides three field-pieces to enfilade -the centre breach, if the <i>chevaux-de-frise</i> should -be seriously shaken. Had it not been for this, the -divisions would have entered like a swarm of -bees.</p> - -<p><i>One man only</i> was at the top of the left breach -(the heaps of dead had, as a matter of course, -rolled to the bottom), and that was one of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">155</a></span> -rifle corps who had succeeded in getting under the -<i>chevaux-de-frise</i>. His head was battered to pieces, -and his arms and shoulders torn asunder with -bayonet wounds.</p> - -<p>Our batteries did not play on the ramparts that -night after dark; but when the explosion took -place, the whole of them opened with <i>blank cartridge</i> -in our rear—probably to frighten the -enemy, or to make them keep down; but they were -old soldiers, and not to be so done.</p> - -<p>Poor M'Leod, in his 27th year, was buried half -a mile from the town, on the south side, nearly -opposite our camp, on the slope of a hill. We did -not like to take him to the miserable breach, where, -from the warmth of the weather, the dead soldiers -had begun to turn, and their blackened bodies had -swollen enormously; we, therefore, laid him -amongst some young springing corn; and, with -sorrowful hearts, six of us (all that remained of the -officers able to stand) saw him covered in the -earth. His cap, all muddy, was handed to me, -I being without one, with merely a handkerchief -round my bruised head, one eye closed, and also -a slight wound in my leg.</p> - -<p>The country was open. The dead, the dying, -and the wounded were scattered abroad; some in -tents, others exposed to the sun by day, and the -heavy dew at night. With considerable difficulty,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">156</a></span> -I found at length my friend, Lieutenant Madden, -lying in a tent with his trowsers on and his -shirt off, covered with blood, bandaged across -the body to support his broken shoulder, laid on -his back, and unable to move. He asked for his -brother.—"Why does he not come to see me?" -I turned my head away; for his gallant young -brother (a captain of the 52nd) was amongst the -slain!</p> - -<p>Captain Merry, of the 52nd, was sitting on the -ground sucking an orange. He said, "How are -you?—You see that <i>I</i> am dying; a mortification -has ensued." A grape-shot had shattered his -knee; and he had told the doctor that he preferred -death rather than to permit such a <i>good leg</i> to be -amputated. Another officer had just breathed his -last between these two sufferers.</p> - -<p>The camp became a wilderness, some of the -tents being thrown down, others vacant, and -flapping in the wind, while the musketry still -rattled in the town, announcing the wild rejoicing -of our troops.</p> - - - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18">18</a> Some Portuguese troops watched the right bank of the river -on the side of Portugal, but, during the latter end of the siege, -part of the fifth division under General Leith took that duty.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19">19</a> I have often been told, from undoubted authority, that this -soldier was one of the first who entered the small breach at -Rodrigo, and whose Stentorian voice rose above the din of -arms.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20">20</a> He was mortally wounded at New Orleans, as Brigade-major, -while scrambling up the enemy's lines. His horse had been killed -under him. He was taken prisoner, and died raving mad from -the agony of the wound through his body.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21">21</a> He was killed; and his twin-brother, of the 52nd light infantry, -fell two years after at St. Sebastian, also at the head of -twenty-five volunteers from that regiment.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22">22</a> This was with the exception of the two regiments of Portuguese -Caçadores, who were left in reserve in the quarries; but -many of them afterwards came towards the breaches.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23">23</a> He had also two unhealed body wounds open, which he had -received at Rodrigo, and one in the trenches at Badajoz a few -days before. He now commands the 52nd regiment.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24">24</a> The right corner looking from the ramparts; but, as we -attacked, it was on the left.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25">25</a> There was a trench three feet wide and four deep, cut -between the centre and left breach, which was choked up with -the dead and wounded.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26_26">26</a> Now Lieut.-Colonel Shaw.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27_27">27</a> The engineer officers suffered terribly in killed and wounded -during the siege, as they joined in all the desperate attacks.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28_28">28</a> The fourth and light divisions retired at midnight from the -breaches; but many of the soldiers did not leave the ditch, -being unable to ascend the ladders owing to the heaps of dead -and wounded. The fourth division descended opposite the large -breach by only two ladders.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29_29">29</a> Now General Sir A. Barnard.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30_30">30</a> Now Lord Hill, commander-in-chief of the British army.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31_31">31</a> Now Lord Lynedoch.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32_32">32</a> The fifth division took the city of Badajoz, and the third -division the castle.</p> -</div> - - - - -<hr /> - -<div class="chapter"> - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">157</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER IX.</h2> -</div> - -<blockquote> -<p class="hang">Movements of the enemy after the fall of Badajoz—March of -the British light and third divisions towards Ciudad Rodrigo—Dispositions -for a fresh campaign—Excellent marching arrangement -of the light division—Occupation of Salamanca by -the British, and investment of the forts—Advance of the -French army—Skirmishing and cannonading—Surrender of -the forts by the French—English quarters at Rueda, and -amusements there—Movements of the author's division—A -breakfast party broken up—Personal escape of the commander-in-chief—Active -manœuvres of the contending forces—Retrograde -movement of the British towards Salamanca—Relative -position of the two armies—Battle of Salamanca.</p> -</blockquote> - - -<p>The Duke of Dalmatia, on hearing of the fall of -Badajoz, retraced his steps towards Seville, followed -by the British cavalry, under General Sir -S. Cotton<a name="FNanchor_33_33" id="FNanchor_33_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33_33" class="fnanchor"><sup>33</sup></a>.</p> - -<p>On the 11th of April, the light and third divisions -crossed the fine stone bridge to the right -bank of the Guadiana, and entered Campo-Mayor. -The march of the troops presented the most warlike -appearance. Many of the soldiers' blood-stained -and torn uniforms were discoloured from -explosions; numbers of the soldiers held their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">158</a></span> -arms in slings, and carried their firelocks and -caps slung on their knapsacks; whilst others -were seen with bandaged heads, or lame from -contusions through wounds inflicted by the iron-crows' -feet with which the enemy had strewed the -ditch of Badajoz. In this manner did all those -gallant soldiers, who were able to join their ranks, -trudge along for ten days, for the purpose of -chasing out of the province of Beira the Duke of -Ragusa, who now blockaded and threatened the -fortresses of Almeida and Ciudad Rodrigo. -Every morning before day light we were creeping -over the rough, flinty, and winding roads along -the <i>Cordon</i> of Portugal, until we reached the -neighbourhood of Ciudad Rodrigo, from which -place the enemy had retired on our approach.</p> - -<p>On the 19th of May, General Sir R. Hill, with -the second division, attacked, and carried by -escalade, and destroyed the forts Napoleon, -Ragusa, and the <i>Tête de Pont</i>, which guarded the -bridge of boats thrown across the Tagus near -Almaraz in Spanish Estremadura. As the summer -came on, officers and soldiers rejoined us with -wounds scarcely healed; others arrived from -England to fill up the vacant ranks. A fresh -campaign was in contemplation, and the officers -from various divisions of the army flocked merrily -into Ciudad Rodrigo.</p> - -<p>On the 12th of June, the army crossed the river<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">159</a></span> -Agueda, the light division leading the centre -column. The march of the light division was -worthy of notice. The men were not tormented -by unnecessary parades—the march was their -parade; that over, the soldiers (except those on -duty) made themselves happy, while those with -sore feet, by such a system, had rest, which enabled -them to be with their comrades, when, by a -mistaken notion of discipline, it would have been -otherwise: their equipment was regularly examined, -nor were the men on any pretence permitted -to overload themselves—one of the most serious -afflictions to an army. A general may be endowed -with transcendant abilities, and by a forced march -place himself in a situation to overthrow his -enemies; he may possess the number of divisions, -and the number of regiments, but through -internal bad management, half his army may -be straggling in the rear. Again, nothing is -so pernicious as keeping the soldiers under arms, -while the officers are rambling about: it destroys -all <i>esprit</i>, causing the officers to forget the sufferings -of the men after a weary march, and creating -feelings of dislike towards them in the breasts of -the soldiers. Such a system did not exist in the -light division; and when a young officer fell in -action, the old soldiers proffered their services -with parental care.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">160</a></span></p> - -<p>The baggage followed the line of march in succession. -The mules of each company were tied -together, and conducted by two batmen in rotation, -right or left in front, according to the order -of march. Each regiment found an officer, and -each brigade a captain to superintend. The -alarm-post for them in camp was on the reverse -flank of respective regiments. When the enemy -were at hand, the baggage was ordered to the rear,—the -distance according to circumstances.</p> - -<p>The army was four days clearing the forest, -which was clothed with verdure, and supplied the -most delightful bivouacks. The Sierra de Gata -lay on the right hand, covered with snow, while a -cloudless sky formed our canopy, and the sunshine -of hope and happiness was beaming on every -countenance, not excepting those of the growling -surly batmen, who were seen to smile at finding -forage at hand for their animals.</p> - -<p>On the fourth day the division encamped within -two leagues of Salamanca, and quite clear of the -wood. The German hussars had an affair on that -day with the enemy's cavalry. The officers of -hussars described it to us, and related the conversation -that took place between them and the -French dragoons stationed on picquet in front of -Salamanca. The enemy requested the Germans -not to charge; the hussars replied, while advancing,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">161</a></span> -that if the French fired, they would. The -enemy then fired their carbines to stop their progress. -The hussars charged, and cut most of -them down.</p> - -<p>The next morning we advanced, and pushed a -body of the rifle corps to feel their way through a -village, near Salamanca, which they found to be -unoccupied by the enemy. The division then -brought up their left shoulders, and passed in open -column of companies within cannon range of the -forts, situated on the right bank of the Tormes, -and within a short distance of the north side of -the town. The enemy stood on the ramparts to -see us pass; the whole plain was covered by our -cavalry and infantry, crowding towards the ford of -Santa Martha, where we all forded the river, -and bivouacked a short distance from the town. -The French army had retired, leaving eight hundred -men to garrison the three forts of St. Vincente, -Gayetano, and Merced, that were constructed -with the masonry extracted from the different handsome -convents, monasteries, and colleges, which -had been pulled down to be converted into bastions.</p> - -<p>The sixth division took possession of Salamanca, -and invested the forts. Soon after we had taken -up our ground, most of the officers hurried into the -town; the inhabitants appeared much rejoiced to -see us, and, as I entered, two ladies ran towards<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">162</a></span> -me, each seizing a hand. My Rozinante dropped -her head in search of food, as I believe she had -not enjoyed a feed that day, while I looked right -and left, and thought such congratulations very -romantic. The <i>Señoras</i>, in black silk, put numerous -questions, few of which I could understand, -nor am I confident whether they were civil or military, -although, from the expression of their eyes, -I concluded that they were on a <i>civil</i> subject. I -much admired the female peasantry; they were -healthy, well-made, with black eyes, red lips, -little feet, and wore red, yellow, and blue petticoats.</p> - -<p>Soon after, I ascended to the top of the cathedral, -to reconnoitre the forts, when I had a full -view into the interior of them, and saw that -musketry might have been applied with effect from -this point. I then descended, and entered into -the festivities and pleasures of the place.</p> - -<p>In the evening the town was illuminated, and -resounded with music, while the merry Spanish -<i>muchachas</i> were dancing boleros, and striking -their castanets in the streets. The glare of light -was reflected from the bright arms piled in the -great square, surrounded by soldiers of the sixth -division, many of whom were destined soon to fall -within a few hundred yards of the fascinating scene.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">163</a></span></p> - -<p>Our division advanced the next day, and took -up its ground a league and a half in front of Salamanca. -On the 20th a staff officer rode up to a -group of us, and said, "The enemy are advancing." -I rode up the side of the position of -St. Christoval, and descried them afar off in the -vast plain. The division then fell in, and were -ordered to crown the heights, which they did; -and at the same time some Spanish regiments -came in our rear, with two pieces of cannon: the -mules became restive; some went one way, and -some another—every way but the right: they -became entangled in their harness; some kicking, -and others feeding on the uncut corn, and, finally, -during this mutiny of the mules a gun was upset, -and, rolling over the bank into the road, quite -deranged the dignity of the Spanish march.</p> - -<p>The different divisions of the army were now ascending -the heights of St. Christoval at many -points. The French army continued to advance, -and soon after began to debouche from the different -roads in order of battle. The view was not -obstructed; the country was level, covered with a -sheet of corn, as far as the eye could reach. To -those fond of military evolutions, the scene was -bold; to those of more tranquil habits, time was -given to pray for the good of their own souls,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">164</a></span> -and, if charitably inclined, for the rest of the -army.</p> - -<p>At first our division deployed on the left of the -front line; then again moved, and took post in the -centre of the second line; the whole army were -deployed in two lines, to oppose the enemy, the -cavalry to the right, and also some detached on -the left, to scour the plain between us and Salamanca, -where part of the sixth division remained -to cover the forts of that place. The whole army -present consisted of seven divisions, besides cavalry, -artillery, the before-mentioned Spaniards, -and some Portuguese infantry.</p> - -<p>At five o'clock in the afternoon the French -cavalry approached by the valley to the left of our -position, where our light dragoons began to skirmish -with them, and showed some disinclination -to give ground; the enemy brought up six guns, -and opened on our squadrons in reserve, when the -dispute ended.</p> - -<p>Towards evening the French made an attack on -part of the seventh division, occupying a village -at the base, and on the right of our position; -after some sharp work, it was carried by the -enemy. A brisk cannonade then took place to -our right between the two armies. Night put an -end to the firing. The whole army slept on their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">165</a></span> -arms in order of battle, and after dark the -picquets were placed at the foot of our position.</p> - -<p>An hour before daybreak, the troops stood to -their arms, fully expecting to be attacked. The dark -shades dispersed; the sun rose; both armies tranquil, -notwithstanding their proximity; the enemy -were full in view, without a bush, or any obstacle -to prevent close quarters. Their right was -thrown back in <i>échelon</i> of divisions. I suppose -our General-in-chief wished them to come a little -nearer, but the Duke of Ragusa was now cautious, -for his army was inferior in numbers.</p> - -<p>Our position was covered with uncut corn, -which served the cavalry for forage, and the infantry -for beds. The contending armies caused -great devastation, and trampled down the ripe -wheat for miles around. The river Tormes ran -about two miles in our rear, with two fords. Our -division was now withdrawn from the line, and -placed as a column of reserve in rear and centre -of the army: it protected the fords in our rear, and -might be used as a moveable mass either to resist -cavalry, or assist where required.</p> - -<p>The Earl of Wellington was stationary from -morning till night, watching the enemy, generally -alone and on foot, at the crest of the hill, -and in the centre of the position. His staff -approached him one at a time to receive orders.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">166</a></span> -At night the Earl slept on the ground, wrapped -in his cloak.</p> - -<p>The troops were much inconvenienced for want -of water, as the river was at some distance, and -only a few men could be spared, since it was impossible -to know at what moment the enemy might -not attack. Some Spanish ladies came from Salamanca, -and walked through our lines. On the -third night the French retired; our division took -ground to the right, and were posted on the bare -and conical hill of Cabrerizos. It appeared necessary -that the forts and the command of the -bridge at Salamanca should be secured before we -made any forward movement. The Duke of -Ragusa evidently wished to gain time, and to continue -in the vicinity to succour the forts, also to -infuse courage into the little garrisons, until his -reinforcements should arrive.</p> - -<p>The Earl of Wellington remained on the hill of -Cabrerizos the whole day. The sun shone with -great brilliancy, and it was burning hot. One of -the soldiers of the 43d put up a blanket to keep -the rays of the sun from his lordship. Our bivouac -presented a droll appearance, as the whole -division had hoisted blankets in a similar manner. -A Spanish <i>muchacha</i>, with sandy hair, named -Agueda, from the <i>pueblo</i> of Fuente de Guinaldo, -who preferred the sound of the bugle-horn to her<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">167</a></span> -domestic occupations, was the sole female to be -seen amid the sun-burnt soldiers, and the brilliant -masses, that now covered hill and dale, ready at a -moment to deploy in battle array. The breaches -at the forts were now considered practicable. At -about nine o'clock at night the attack commenced; -but after some time the firing became slack, and I -saw three rockets thrown up from the forts; they -were immediately answered by several rounds of -artillery from the French army, on a rising ground -two leagues to our right, which instantly satisfied -me that the assault had not succeeded, -and that it was done as a signal that they were -still at hand.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the 25th, at daylight, we -heard some firing on the other side of the Tormes -during a dense fog, which at first prevented the -force of the enemy from being ascertained. The -Earl of Wellington would not move. The soldiers -laughed, and said, "Oh, they are only shaking -their blankets on the other side of the water;" -for in heavy weather musketry produced sounds -such as I have described. As the fog cleared -away, a few rounds of artillery took place; and -the General-in-Chief sent a sufficient body of -troops by the ford in rear of St. Christoval to -meet the enemy. When the atmosphere cleared, -we saw about a division of the French moving<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">168</a></span> -towards Salamanca. They were opposed by our -heavy cavalry, which had been placed there to -secure the flank and rear of our army.</p> - -<p>At seven that evening, the French re-crossed, -unmolested, to the right bank of the Tormes, by -a ford a league to our right. I did not consider -the movement a serious one, but merely as -intended to encourage the soldiers in the forts to -hold out.</p> - -<p>On the 27th, St. Vincente being in flames, -the enemy permitted our troops to ascend the -breaches without opposition. It was a sort of -half assault and half surrender. The troops in -the other forts also laid down their arms, having -suffered severely; and only marched out three -hundred out of eight, their original force, and -many of those scorched by the flames, or otherwise -hurt.</p> - -<p>The army now moved forward. Our division -supported the cavalry, and advanced towards -Ruêda. On the 2d of July, Captain Bull's horse -artillery and the cavalry overtook the enemy's rear -guard near that place. Although the country -appeared open, it was unfit for cavalry, as it was -intersected with small vines, the size of gooseberry-bushes. -On entering the town, I observed -five of the French killed from the fire of the six-pounders.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">169</a></span></p> - -<p>The division bivouacked round the town; and -the next morning we moved about two leagues in -advance, and rather to the left, where an interchange -of shots took place between the left of our -army and the enemy, near Pollos, who had no -idea of permitting us to cross the Douro at that -time, as the French Marshal wished to maintain -his line on that river for the base of his future -operations. We then returned, and took up our -quarters in Ruêda. Pay was issued, all of which -we spent in gaieties and <i>iced wines</i>. The inhabitants -had all returned to their dwellings. The -mayor was informed that the officers would give a -ball; when he procured <i>Señoritas</i>, according to -custom. It was extremely pleasant, with waltzing, -and all the fascinating mazes of the Spanish -country-dance in perfection. The Marquis of -Worcester, and others of the Earl of Wellington's -staff attended.</p> - -<p>On the evening of the 16th July our division was -ordered to quit Ruêda, and marched the whole -night over a dusty and arid country; and towards -morning we took up our ground near Castréjon. -During this day the Valencians (commonly called -the lemonade-men) came into our bivouac, the sure -harbingers of the approach of the enemy. These -men wear a spiral cap, of felt or leather, and have -jet black ringlets hanging down each side of their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">170</a></span> -dark olive faces; and their fierce black eyes give -them a noble expression of countenance. A white -linen jacket is thrown over the shoulder, and -a red sash encircles their loins; they also wear a -white linen kilt, like our Highland soldiers, reaching -to the cap of the knee; the white half stockings -are gartered under the knee, which is bare; -and hempen sandals are tied round the feet. -They carry a long tin can, strapped on their -backs, cased in the bark of the cork-tree, which -keeps cool the lemonade with which they are -filled. These men generally marched with the -French columns, and acted as spies to both -parties. Just before nightfall, the company -was ordered a quarter of a league to the front on -picquet; the country was open, and, as the -cavalry passed, I heard a staff-officer giving -orders, which led me to suspect that the enemy -were at hand.</p> - -<p>At break of day on the 18th, a few shots -were exchanged to our right; the firing increased, -and the cheering might be distinctly heard at -intervals, as the sun rose above the horizon.</p> - -<p>Our dragoons became visible while retiring -before the enemy's horse and light artillery, which -at intervals were blazing away. The scene was -sublime and beautiful. An officer said to me, -"There will be a row this day; however, we had -better get our breakfast, as God knows <i>when</i> we<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">171</a></span> -shall have any thing to eat, unless we take advantage -of the present moment." The tea service -being laid out, and a stubble fire kindled, to warm -the bottom of the kettle, we suddenly espied some -squadrons of French heavy dragoons in a valley to -our right, pushing for the main road at full trot. -An absurd and ludicrous scene now took place. -The crockery was thrown into the hampers; also -the kettle, half filled with hot water; another -officer, who had come to <i>déjeûne</i> with us, from the -rear, all the while vociferating, "God bless me! -you will not desert my mule and hampers; they -are worth four hundred dollars." In fact, to get -off seemed impossible; the company, however, -formed column of sections, and fixed bayonets, -fully determined to cover the old mule, who went -off with a rare clatter, and we after him, in double-quick -time. The enemy were now within two -hundred yards of us, brandishing their swords, -and calling out, when they suddenly drew up on -seeing some of our cavalry hovering on their right -flank. A rivulet, with steep banks, ran parallel -with the road; but we soon found a ford, where -we drew up, intending to dispute the passage. -The right brigade of our division had moved forward, -and had deployed to the succour of our dragoons -first engaged, about half a mile to our right. -Soon after this, two squadrons of our light dragoons<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">172</a></span> -formed on a rising ground, two hundred -yards from us, with two pieces of horse artillery -on their right, when about an equal number of -French heavy cavalry, handsomely dressed, with -large fur caps, made rapidly towards them, our -guns throwing round shot at them during their advance. -When they had arrived within one hundred -yards of our squadrons, they drew up to get wind, -our dragoons remaining stationary<a name="FNanchor_34_34" id="FNanchor_34_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34_34" class="fnanchor"><sup>34</sup></a>.</p> - -<p>A French officer, the chef d'escadron, advanced -and invited our people to charge, to beguile a few -moments, while his squadrons obtained a little -breathing time. He then held his sword on high, -crying aloud, "<i>Vive l'Empereur! en avant, -Français!</i>" and rushed on single-handed, followed -by his men, and overthrowing our light -dragoons. The guns had fortunately limbered up, -and the horse-artillery fought round them with -great spirit, the enemy trying to cut the traces, -while the poor drivers held down their heads, -sticking their spurs into the horses' sides with all -their might, and passed the ford under cover of -our picquet. The Earl of Wellington was in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">173</a></span> -thick of it, and only escaped with difficulty. He -also crossed the ford, with his straight sword -drawn, at full speed, and smiling. I did not see -his lordship when the charge first took place, but -he had a most narrow escape; and, when he -passed us, he had not any of his staff near him, -and was quite alone, with a ravine in his rear.</p> - -<p>A few stragglers of each party still continued -engaged, and this part of the affray took place -within twenty yards of us. One of our dragoons -came to the water with a frightful wound; his -jaw was entirely separated from the upper part of -his face, and hung on his breast; the poor fellow -made an effort to drink in that wretched condition.</p> - -<p>The round shot now flew in various directions; -one spun through a cottage behind us, and the -shepherd ran out in great terror. The light division -now commenced its retreat from the vicinity -of Castréjon. The French had crossed the -river Douro with reinforcements, and had made -an amazing march to take us in flank. We had -only retrograded a short way, when we obtained a -view of the bulk of the French army, pushing -forward on a ridge of hills to our left. The first -false attack had been made at daylight on our -right and in front, merely to draw all our force to -that point, while the Duke of Ragusa executed -this movement. The fourth division were retiring -in mass, within range of the enemy's fire, being<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">174</a></span> -critically situated in the valley, while the French -cannon rolled on the crest of the hills above, and -poured in their shot with effect on their right flank.</p> - -<p>Our division was obliquely to the rear, in column -of quarter distance, with fixed bayonets, -ready to form square,<a name="FNanchor_35_35" id="FNanchor_35_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35_35" class="fnanchor"><sup>35</sup></a> surrounded by large bodies -of our cavalry. To avoid an action seemed impossible. -The enemy's infantry were almost on -the run, and we were marching away from them -as hard as we could. While the round shot from -a flank fire flew over us, a French division came -running to engage and detain us until others came -up, and obliged us to abandon the road, and -trample down a tract of wheat. The heavy German -cavalry drew close round us. The country -was open, and a vast sheet of corn enveloped us -for many miles. The men became much distressed, -owing to the rapidity of the movements -and heat of the day. We were again -enabled to regain the road (owing to our numerical -superiority of cavalry), which made a curve -down a gentle descent; and the men descried, at -a short distance, a dirty meandering stream, called -the Guarena, near Castrillo. A buzz ran through -the ranks that water was at hand, and the soldiers -were impelled forward, with their eyes staring and -mouths open; and when within fifty yards of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">175</a></span> -stream, a general rush was made. I never saw -the troops during my service so thirsty. The -discipline of the division was such, that I have -seen them pass clear water, unbroken, in the -hottest weather, suffering under fatigue known -only to those under the weight of a knapsack and -accoutrements.</p> - -<p>All this took place under a cannonade, which -had continued, at intervals, for more than ten -miles. This was following up with a vengeance. -We had no sooner crossed the river than some -squadrons of the enemy's cavalry galloped up a -hill immediately overlooking us. The division -now moved more leisurely; and every one was -aware that had our cavalry given way, the division -must have halted to repulse charges, which would -have given time for the French infantry to come -up; and had that been the case, the struggle -must have been very sanguinary. Our reserves -now being at hand, we soon halted on a round -hill, and showed front. The fourth division did -the same; when a brigade of the enemy, covered -with dust, came in contact with an equal number -of the fourth division; who, firing a volley, -charged with the bayonet, and overthrew the -French in good style, taking many prisoners.</p> - -<p>The French army had done their best to overtake -us, but became glad of a halt as well as -ourselves, and the firing ceased. We remained<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">176</a></span> -stationary during the day, when I fell asleep; and -after some time, I suddenly awoke, with my lips -glued together, and my person almost roasted by -the scorching rays of the sun; and actually crawled -some distance before I knew where I was. Dry -biscuit was served out; but we could not get any -water until eleven at night, when I obtained a -draught of dirty water out of my batman's canteen; -however, it cooled my inside; and I believe -that many hundreds dreamed that night of -limpid streams.</p> - -<p>On the 19th the troops stood to their arms an -hour before daybreak; but the enemy continued -stationary, and well they might, as they had made -the previous night and day an enormous march to -cut us off in detail, according to the Duke of -Ragusa's favourite expression; however, at four -o'clock in the afternoon the Earl of Wellington -rode up to Lieutenant Wilkinson of the 43d, who -was on picquet, and said, "What are the enemy -doing?" Wilkinson replied, "The French are in -motion." The dust was flying upwards from -behind the ridge of hills in our front. The -General-in-chief said, "Yes—to the right now;" -and ordered the first brigade of our division to -make a corresponding movement, by crossing a -valley, to prolong our right. We ascended a high -hill, and formed on our original front, when the -French army issued from behind the hills, presenting<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">177</a></span> -a martial appearance, and a grand display -of moving squadrons, with brazen helmets, and -a great body of infantry flanked by their cannon.</p> - -<p>The river Guarena was nearly dried up, and -was the only obstacle between the contending -armies, as the face of the country still continued -bare and hilly, without even a tree to be seen. The -Duke of Ragusa entered the valley to reconnoitre, -surrounded by a numerous staff, when two guns -of our horse-artillery opened, and a ball struck -on the ground, and knocked up the dust in -the very centre of the group, without killing any -one: they took the hint, and shifted their ground.</p> - -<p>Eight of the enemy's guns instantly began a -heavy firing on our brigade: the first shot struck -an officer of the horse-artillery on the side of his -helmet, and displaced him from his horse; after a -short time the brigade went to the right about, to -get out of range. At that moment the Spaniards<a name="FNanchor_36_36" id="FNanchor_36_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36_36" class="fnanchor"><sup>36</sup></a> -attached to us simultaneously started from the -left of each regiment, and I do not recollect ever -seeing them afterwards: it was most ludicrous to -witness the flight of these patriots, in disorder, -while our troops retired sloping their arms with -the utmost <i>sang-froid</i>. We soon halted, and -faced about; the enemy's guns ceased to play, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">178</a></span> -a large force of our light dragoons mounted the -hill in our rear, with sloped swords. Night -coming on, we formed columns in case of accidents. -An officer and myself then stole down the -hill on horseback, in search of water for ourselves -and animals: having passed our advanced posts -some distance, and hearing strange voices, we looked -at each other, and whispered that to go further -would be indiscreet, wherefore, rejoining the column, -we wrapped ourselves in our cloaks, and fell into a -profound slumber, out of which we were awakened -by a great bustle and the trampling of horses. -Word passed to stand to our arms, and the Portuguese -Caçadores fired some shots, but I was so -overcome by drowsiness, that I continued in a -squatting position, rubbing my eyes, too lazy to -move. The confusion was caused by two or three -mules breaking their ropes, and becoming lively; -not unusual amongst such animals.</p> - -<p>On the 20th our division concentrated soon -after daylight, and descended into the plain of -Velesa, where we observed our whole army formed -in a dense phalanx, ready to deploy in order of -battle. The French army were not in sight; -however, it was evident they intended to avail -themselves of the high ground; a brigade of our -cavalry had pushed half way up the ridge, to -entice them to show front, and to develope their -movements, as it appeared during the night they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">179</a></span> -had moved on a quarter circle, round our extreme -right flank, and were now pushing on, and trying -to cut off our communications. The Duke -of Ragusa would not accept battle as long as he -could gain ground without it, unless we attacked -at a disadvantage, as he seemed to be a perfect -master of the localities of the country.</p> - -<p>Our army, under all these circumstances, broke -up, and began to retreat, the different divisions -arranged in such a manner, that, should it become -necessary, by wheeling to the left, they could -show front, and be ready to engage, the more particularly -as both armies were again moving parallel -to each other; and in this order they continued -some leagues, and bivouacked. It became necessary -for the troops to cook with fires of stubble, -as there was not any wood in the neighbourhood. -A brigade of Portuguese cavalry happened to be -left at some distance in the rear, and, as it slowly -retired in line, presented such an imposing <i>front -to their own rear</i>, that, by mistake, an artillery -officer ordered them to be saluted by a couple -of shot, which unfortunately did some execution.</p> - -<p>On the 21st, two hours before daylight, we -began our march, branching off towards Salamanca, -and took up our ground in the valley, -below St. Christoval, the enemy having moved on -Alba de Tormes and its vicinity. Toward evening, -we fell in, and crossed the Tormes by a ford,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">180</a></span> -under the hill of Cabrerizos, and marched in the -direction of Salamanca, the river being on our -right hand. Night approached, and a German -hussar passed us at full speed, and said, "<i>She's -co-ming</i>," meaning the French dragoons, who -had pushed forward to the village of Calbarasa -de Abaxo.</p> - -<p>The atmosphere became now overspread with an -unusual darkness; the thunder began to roll, the -lightning was vivid, and the rain fell in torrents. -During the storm a whole troop of horses galloped -past at full speed, without their riders, having -broke loose from fright, caused by the loud claps -of thunder. Continuing our march, we soon -bivouacked about two miles from Salamanca, our -left wing resting on the Tormes, and in vain attempted -to screen ourselves from the pelting of -the storm. However, the morning of the 22d -broke beautiful and serene; and at six o'clock we -heard to our right, and about two miles to the -front, a brisk fire of small arms, which continued -for an hour, and then died away. The enemy -had attacked the seventh division, in a wood near -the heights of Nuestra Señora de la Pena, to ascertain -whether the Earl of Wellington intended to -give up Salamanca. A young officer was washing -his shirt in the Tormes when the order came to -fall in at eleven o'clock, and was under the necessity -of putting it on wringing wet.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">181</a></span></p> - -<p>The light division advanced, and took up the -ground which the seventh division had occupied -in the morning; the wood extended a short way -to our front. The division was formed in open -column, concealed from a small body of the -enemy, who were stationed in small force half a -mile to our front, with two pieces of cannon, on -some rocks, round the old <i>quinta</i> of Nuestra -Señora de la Pena. From our situation we -formed a corps of reserve, communicating with -the third division placed on the top of the conical -hill of Cabrerizos, on our extreme left, and rather -in advance of us, on the right bank of the Tormes.</p> - -<p>We had no sooner piled arms, than I began to -look about me. A <i>Table Mountain</i>, or rather -one of <i>Los dos Arapiles</i>, was a short way to the -right, and a mile to the front, with a very large -mass of troops formed behind it, in contiguous -columns, with one red regiment presenting their -front towards the enemy in <i>line</i> at the top of it. -Large bodies of cavalry, the first, fourth, fifth, -sixth, and seventh divisions of infantry, with a -proportion of artillery, composed the right and -centre of the army in the plain, towards Las -Torres; also a corps of <i>Spanish Patriots</i>. Placed -thus, who could have thought that the General-in-Chief -intended that day to retreat? I <i>never did</i>. -Nor could I see the reason for it: it seemed advisable -to beat the French before <i>El Rey</i> Joseph<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">182</a></span> -coming from Madrid, and General Chauvel, who, -with a reinforcement of cavalry and horse-artillery, -had crossed the Duoro, near Pollos, should -make their appearance with additional forces.</p> - -<p>The arrangement of our troops was inimitable; -<i>years</i> could not have improved it. Our right had -been fairly turned since the 20th; the army were -presenting a new front, so that the <i>first</i> or <i>last</i>, -whichever it may be termed, of military movements -was to be effected, that is for the contending -armies to <i>change places</i>. The French could -not attack our left that day; if they had, the -right of their army must have been either surrounded -or cut to pieces. The third division -would have hung on their flank, the light division -would have engaged them in front, the masses -behind the Table Mountain could have debouched -on either side, while our cavalry, artillery, and -the rest of the army, could have moved forward, -and attacked the left of the French in the plain, -which must have advanced to support such a -movement. The Table Mountain is the mark of -the French marshal's discomfiture. Military men -say the French ought to have taken possession -of it: but was their army up and strong enough -to maintain it? The advance of the enemy at six -o'clock in the morning was not that of their whole -force: I should say, that it was merely a <i>reconnaissance</i>; -half a dozen squadrons of cavalry and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">183</a></span> -a division of infantry must not be taken for a -whole army. Nor had the French soldiers wings; -for in justice to them, more could not have been -done by legs. The Duke of Ragusa might have -had his army in hand, and could have placed a -corps of observation where his centre stood; then -towards evening manœuvred with his main body -at a greater distance from our right flank, and -threatened to cut us off from Rodrigo, (and thereby -change positions with us) until nightfall; at -the same time keeping his communications open -with Alba de Tormes, in the event of his not -deeming it advisable to follow up such a movement -the next day. At all events, the French -general would have gained time, which was precious -to him, as reinforcements were on the road -to join him. The fact was, the French marshal -was completely out-generalled: the Table Mountain -puzzled him; and the third division descending -from Cabrerizos at twelve o'clock, and raising -clouds of dust as they passed along the rear of -our army<a name="FNanchor_37_37" id="FNanchor_37_37"></a><a href="#Footnote_37_37" class="fnanchor"><sup>37</sup></a>, caused the Duke of Ragusa to imagine -that we were drawing off, which I am confident -led him to take hasty measures, forgetting that he -had been manœuvring only on <i>blank</i> ground the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">184</a></span> -four previous days. The Earl of Wellington saw -his over haste and his error; knowing that to -support such an extension of the left, the enemy -ought to have advanced in force on the village of -the Arapiles, or that they must expose their left to -a flank attack, which they did. On the other hand, -had they advanced towards the Arapiles in the -plain in force, our right and centre would have -become engaged, and the troops concealed behind -the Table Mountain could have debouched, and -hovered on their right flank.</p> - -<p>This was the first <i>general action</i> fought on the -Peninsula, where the Earl of Wellington <i>attacked</i>; -which led the French marshal still farther from -his reckoning. The General-in-Chief, of course, -did not wish to fritter away his army in useless -skirmishes, and therefore only waited for a <i>fit -moment</i> to bring it fairly in contact with the -enemy, to <i>finish</i> well when once commenced; -and as the Duke of Ragusa brought himself to -action within the precincts of Salamanca, the advantage -was ours, the wounded soldiers having -speedy assistance, while those of the enemy who -managed to drag themselves far from the field, -endured the most distressing privations. The -French were formed on the heights behind the -village of the Arapiles, with an extensive forest in -their rear.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">185</a></span></p> - -<p>The field of battle generally was composed of -light sand, with a few straggling blades of parched -grass. A very light breeze blew towards the -French, which gave them the benefit of the clouds -of dust and the volumes of smoke arising from the -immense masses in motion, notwithstanding the -heavy rain on the preceding night. Near one -<span class="smcap">p. m.</span> the third division were passing in rear of -ours. I was strolling about, here and there coming -across a dead or wounded soldier of those -who had fallen in the morning, when a Portuguese -caught my attention. He was resting on his -elbows with his legs extended, suffering indescribable -pain from a wound in his stomach; his face -pale, his lips discoloured, and stifled groans issuing -from his nearly lifeless body, while an almost -tropical sun was shining on his uncovered head.</p> - -<p>Soon after the third division had reached its -destination, a column of French descended a hill -<i>en masse</i> on our extreme right, towards the village -of Miranda. Three eighteen-pounders opened on -them, which took full effect, and spoiled their -regularity. The enemy hesitated, while the discharges -of our heavy ordnance were overthrowing -all opposition. They went to the right-about to -get out of range. Our columns, formed behind -the Table Mountain, now debouched in double -time, showing the French Marshal that the long-expected -crisis was at hand. A sharp fire of musketry<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">186</a></span> -opened on some companies of the seventh -fusileers, supported by the light companies of the -foot guards, as they broke through the village of -the Arapiles at half-past two. The third division -had already brought up their right shoulders, and -were pushing on very successfully, when the -enemy's horse furiously charged the grenadiers and -right of the 5th regiment, while advancing in line, -which they repulsed and continued their movement. -The fire gradually increasing, at half-past -four the armies were well in contact. The musketry -rolled without intermission, only interrupted -by the still louder artillery. The fourth division, -breathless, amidst showers of grape, musketry, -and round-shot, had succeeded in planting their -standards on the crest of the enemy's position; -but at that moment a French division, in close -column, and at a run, with fixed bayonets, forced -them down the hill, whilst others advanced on -their left flank, which was exposed, and carried -the centre of the battle again into the valley; but -our heavy cavalry, in the right centre, were bearing -down all opposition, driving the left of the -enemy before them, and putting them into the -greatest confusion. Major-General Le Marchant -was killed heading this charge. Marshal Beresford<a name="FNanchor_38_38" id="FNanchor_38_38"></a><a href="#Footnote_38_38" class="fnanchor"><sup>38</sup></a>, -Generals Leith, Cole, and Alten, were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">187</a></span> -wounded. On the part of the French that fell, -were the Duke of Ragusa, Generals Fercy, -Thomieres, Desgraviers, Bonnet, Clausel, and -Menne, besides their losing numerous prisoners, -standards, and cannon. At six the battle was at -the height—no cessation of musketry, and the -cannon of both armies thundering away as if -there were to be no end of it. The columns of -smoke and dust were rolling up in dense volumes, -so that the atmosphere became dark above the -bloody scene; yet there was not a cloud to be -descried, except those which arose from the battle. -A Spanish peasant was looking on with his arms -folded; I heard him exclaim, "<i>Que grandisimo -mundo!</i><a name="FNanchor_39_39" id="FNanchor_39_39"></a><a href="#Footnote_39_39" class="fnanchor"><sup>39</sup></a>"</p> - -<p>The inhabitants of Salamanca were crowding the -places of public worship, to offer up prayers for the -success of our arms. <i>Apropos</i>, it was Sunday.</p> - -<p>At half-past six, a brigade of Portuguese guns -opened on the enemy, in front of our division. At -seven, the Prince of Orange, one of the General-in-Chief's -aides-de-camp rode up, and ordered our -division to move on the left to attack. We moved -towards the Table Mountain, right brigade in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">188</a></span> -front, in open column; having passed it, we then -closed to column of quarter distance. The enemy's -skirmishers soon advanced, and opened a brisk -fire. The shades of evening now approached, and -the flashes of cannon and small arms in the centre -and on the heights were still vivid, while the enemy -were making their last struggle for victory. An -English officer of General Pack's brigade passed -us, covered with dust and perspiration; he complained -of the rough usage of the French. They -allowed the Portuguese to approach nearly to the -summit of the point of attack, then charged them, -and used the bayonet without remorse, taking -that part of the field under their especial protection.</p> - -<p>The enemy's light infantry increased, and retired -very deliberately; the ascent was gentle. -The first brigade deployed, supported by the -second; the first division was marching in reserve.</p> - -<p>Our skirmishers were obliged to give ground to -the obstinacy of the enemy; and nearly ceased -firing. The line marched over them, dead and -alive.</p> - -<p>Appearances indicated a severe fight, for we -were near the enemy's reserves. The Earl of -Wellington was within fifty yards of the front, -when the adverse lines commenced firing. The -General-in-Chief ordered us to halt within two<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">189</a></span> -hundred yards of the enemy. They gave us two -volleys with cheers, while our cavalry galloped -forward to threaten their right flank. At this -time I heard that a musket-ball had perforated the -Earl's cloak, folded in front of his saddle. As we -were about to charge, the enemy disappeared, not -being in sufficient force to withstand the attack. -This advance was beautifully executed.</p> - -<p>Night coming on, the firing died away. Thus -ended a battle which bore on the destinies of -Europe, by showing the decline of French power -in Spain, and leaving the British army for the -first time free to pursue their enemy at pleasure. -It lasted six hours.—Our line continued its movement. -A French cavalry picquet fired on us at -ten; the <i>ruse de guerre</i> would not do<a name="FNanchor_40_40" id="FNanchor_40_40"></a><a href="#Footnote_40_40" class="fnanchor"><sup>40</sup></a>. We -continued to advance until midnight; and bivouacked -round a village.</p> - -<p>The Duke of Ragusa was carried off the field by -a company of French grenadiers. He had -manœuvred well, from the 19th till the battle, -and had moved round our flank on a half circle.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">190</a></span></p> - -<p>As morning dawned on the 23rd, the light -division advanced, supported by the first division, -and crossing the ford, near Huerta, formed <i>en -masse</i> in a valley, while the heavy German -dragoons ascended the hill, moving on the left -of the enemy. After some time we debouched. -The Germans made a brilliant charge, and broke -the French rear guard, formed on the side of a -hill near La Serna. They suffered much. The -whole of the enemy had not formed square. I -observed five hundred stand of muskets on their -left, lying on the ground in line, as if they had -been piled and knocked down, and the owners -had shifted as well as they could; the muskets -were not grounded to the front, but lying sideways. -The enemy only formed two squares. I -saw a man and horse dead, the rider still in his -saddle. They must have received their mortal -wounds at the same instant.</p> - -<p>On mounting the hill, the enemy's army were -in full view, in one great mass. Our horse artillery -threw some shot into them. The troops -soon halted, and the enemy were seen no more.</p> - - - -<div class="footnote"> -<p><a name="Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33_33">33</a> Now Lord Combermere.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_34_34" id="Footnote_34_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34_34">34</a> The company was formed up, and fronting the right flank of -our dragoons. We, therefore, had an admirable view of the -space between the combatants. The soldiers of the company -had made ready, holding their firelocks horizontally, or rather -at the charging position, but to have fired would have been -rather unchivalric, and would probably have destroyed the valiant -French officer, who, though our enemy, was an honour to his -country.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_35_35" id="Footnote_35_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35_35">35</a> Six companies of the second battalion of rifles joined us on -the retreat, just arrived from England.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_36_36" id="Footnote_36_36"></a><a href="#FNanchor_36_36">36</a> During this campaign only a few Spaniards were attached -to each British regiment in our division.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_37_37" id="Footnote_37_37"></a><a href="#FNanchor_37_37">37</a> The third division did not pass through Salamanca, when -they descended from the hill of Cabrerizos. They forded the -Tormes, and passed within a mile in rear of us.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_38_38" id="Footnote_38_38"></a><a href="#FNanchor_38_38">38</a> Now Lord Beresford.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_39_39" id="Footnote_39_39"></a><a href="#FNanchor_39_39">39</a> He was the only peasant I ever saw in battle, except one -who offered his services at Vittoria, to conduct our division over -an unprotected bridge, when the second shot fired took off the -poor fellow's head.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_40_40" id="Footnote_40_40"></a><a href="#FNanchor_40_40">40</a> It has been affirmed, that the firing of the French picquet -of dragoons in the forest caused us to go too much to the left. -On the contrary, we were moving directly towards the ford of -Huerta, on the Tormes, as it was supposed that the Spaniards -left in the old castle of Alba de Tormes would prevent the enemy -crossing the bridge at that place. These Spaniards, however, -unknown to the General-in-Chief, had surrendered the day before.</p> -</div> - - - - -<hr /> - -<div class="chapter"> - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">191</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER X.</h2> -</div> - -<blockquote> -<p class="hang">Well-performed retreat of the French after the battle of Salamanca—Progress -of the English troops—Description of the -Spanish plains and towns—Custom of the <i>Siesta</i>—Movements -of Joseph Bonaparte—Bivouac at Olmedo, and ball given there -by Lord Wellington—Advance of the British army, and entry -into Valladolid—A swimming adventure—Illness of the author, -and his removal to the town of Cuellar—Timorous conduct of -the Portuguese dragoons—The English army enters Madrid—Incidents -attending the author's further removal as an invalid -to Salamanca—General position of affairs on the Continent—Operations -of Sir R. Hill—Re-capture of Valladolid—Unsuccessful -siege of Burgos—Various movements of the forces.</p> -</blockquote> - - -<p>A great portion of the French army had -marched more than twelve leagues<a name="FNanchor_41_41" id="FNanchor_41_41"></a><a href="#Footnote_41_41" class="fnanchor"><sup>41</sup></a> in thirty-six -hours, (advancing and retreating from the field of -battle,) and had also been engaged in hard-fighting -six hours out of that time; therefore, until -the night of the 23d, they had hardly made a halt -for any considerable time during two days and a -night, and I think I may venture to assert, that -the rapidity of their movements, before and after<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">192</a></span> -the action, and their ultimate escape under Gen. -Clausel from the very jaws of destruction, are -equally astonishing.</p> - -<p>Early on the morning of the 24th of July, we -passed Pena-Aranda, from whence the inhabitants -sallied out, loaded with bread, wine, and liquors, -and rent the air with their acclamations in praise -of the glorious victory that we had won over the -French; and even the little boys straddled out -their legs and bent forward their heads in derision -of the enemy's soldiers, to represent to us to what -a state of distress and exhaustion they were reduced. -As we passed onwards, numerous objects -of commiseration, lying by the side of the -road, reminded us of the miseries of war in all its -horrors: many of the French soldiers lay dead, -exposed to the scorching rays of the sun, which -had so blistered their faces, and swelled their -bodies, that they scarcely represented human -forms, and looked more like some huge and horrible -monsters, of gigantic dimensions, than any -thing else. It is impossible to convey an adequate -idea of such spectacles, or of the sensations -they must have endured during their last agonies. -These, now inanimate, objects had marched over -sandy plains, without a tree to shelter them, -while suffering from fatigue, sore feet, and want -of water; then crowding into the battle, covered -with dust, and under a scorching sun, they had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">193</a></span> -received severe wounds, and were finally dragged, -or carried on rudely-constructed bearers, from -the scene of action, during excruciating torture, -and ultimately left to perish by the side of the -roads, or on stubble land, with their parched -tongues cleaving to the roof of their mouths, and -(to complete their miseries) before breathing their -last sigh, to behold, with glazed and half-closed -eyes, the uplifted hand of a Spanish assassin, armed -with a knife, to put an end to their existence. -These dreadful fates awaited the defeated French -soldiers in Spain; it was impossible to gaze on -the mutilated bodies of these our enemies without -feelings of deep commiseration for our fellow-creatures, -who, a day or two previously, had been -alive like ourselves, and perhaps the admiration of -their comrades.</p> - -<p>The vast <i>campos</i> in Leon, the two Castiles, and -other parts of Spain, are apparently interminable -sandy plains, covered with corn or small stumpy -vines. In summer, many of the principal rivers become -very shallow, and numerous tributary streams -are dried up, leaving their winding beds, or indentures, -filled with pebbles. In many parts there is -not a tree, a hedge, or a shrub to mark private or -public boundaries, nor a drop of water to be procured. -The shapeless roads, or beaten tracts, are -ancle-deep in sand, and in some places fifty yards<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">194</a></span> -wide; at other spots branching off into three or -four paths, which again join at a given point. -During the excessive heat of the day a solemn -silence frequently pervades these immense plains; -and the high steeples of churches, or the venerable -turrets of monasteries of <i>las villas</i>, or <i>pueblos</i>, -alone present a land-mark, and direct the weary -footsteps of the traveller.</p> - -<p>The towns are constructed of ancient massive -buildings of stone or dingy brick, (the lower -windows barred with iron,) intermixed with innumerable -churches, convents, and religious -edifices of the most ancient construction.</p> - -<p>During the middle of the day all shops are closed -by a pair of unwieldy doors, and the inhabitants -enjoy their middle sleep or <i>siesta</i>. At this hour -the streets may be traversed without meeting a -single person, and the great monastic edifices -stand in solemn grandeur as monuments of that -superstition exercised by the monks at the time -of their foundation in the darker ages. As soon -as the scorching heat has somewhat subsided, -the doors are thrown open, and towards evening -the streets are thronged by merry dancers and -songstresses; the tinkling of the guitar is heard -from the casements, balconies, and verandas; the -servant maids go chatting and laughing to the -fountains; the muleteers lead their animals to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">195</a></span> -water; the peasant girls bring in cans of goat's -milk, and the shopkeepers sit at their portals -without coats, having their shirt sleeves tucked -up, and smoking cigars.</p> - -<p>On the 25th we made a halt to enable the -stragglers and stores of the army to come up. -On the same day El Rey Joseph had arrived at -Blasko Sancho, near Arevalo, with a reinforcement, -principally composed of Spaniards, for the -purpose of joining the Duke of Ragusa; but on -gaining intelligence of the defeat his troops had -sustained at Salamanca, he countermarched in the -evening towards his capital, leaving a picquet of -cavalry behind at Blasko Sancho, who were all -taken prisoners, while carousing in a wine-house, -by a corporal's party of the 14th light horse. -About this time General Sir R. Hill had moved -with the second division on Zafra, in Estremadura, -to observe a French force in that quarter.</p> - -<p>On the 28th our division bivouacked round the -ancient town of Olmedo, where the Earl of Wellington -gave a ball, with a general <i>invite</i> to all -those officers who liked to attend. The Alcalde -selected the different ladies as usual, whose merry -hearts and supple forms were always ready for the -dance.</p> - -<p>The following morning, an hour before daylight, -we advanced, and it was a droll sight to see<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">196</a></span> -the officers sleeping as they rode along after the -fatigues of the previous night, still dressed in their -ball attire, such as crimson, light blue, or white -trowsers, richly embroidered with gold or silver, -velvet and silk waistcoats of all colours, decorated -in a similar manner: dandies ready alike -for the dance and the fight; most of them had -received a wound, and others more, nor can I -call to mind one of the officers present at this -time, including the senior officer, who had reached -twenty-five years of age. Owing to the heat -of the weather, it was the fashion of the times -to wear the jacket open, which was the only particle -of dress left to denote to what nation we -belonged; as to any other uniformity for the -officers, it was quite out of the question: the fantastical -dresses of those days would have confounded -the most ancient or modern disciplinarians.—The -enemy still continued their flight -across the Douro through Valladolid, which city -the Marquis of Wellington entered on the 30th, at -the head of a large body of horse. The country -on the banks of the Douro is remarkably sandy, -and highly cultivated with vines; we forded to -the left bank of the river on that day within two -leagues of Valladolid. While our baggage was -crossing, a batman and pony got out of their -depth, and were carried down the stream a considerable<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">197</a></span> -distance; and so determined was the -soldier to hold on, that he disdained, at the risk -of his life, to quit his charge, and continued -swimming until a rope was thrown to him, -by the assistance of which he conveyed the little -animal and his master's portmanteaus safe on -shore.</p> - -<p>We had no sooner heard of the large town in -the vicinity, than we began to prepare for the -visit; however, it struck me that it would be very -refreshing to enjoy a swim first, and also wishing -my horse to participate in the luxury, I stripped -myself and mounted its back, and together we -plunged into the stream; but, as ill luck would -have it, for a moment, the provoking animal hardly -made any exertion, so down he went, and thinking -there was no time to be lost, I sprang from -his back; but owing to his plunging I received a -slanting kick on my chest, such as most probably -would have proved fatal, had the full weight of -the blow struck me direct. The animal, however, -soon recovered itself, and swimming with the current, -it was with considerable difficulty I succeeded -in getting it on shore.</p> - -<p>Valladolid is a fine old city, (with a spacious -square,) the inhabitants of which were glad to see -us, but evinced none of those rapturous and warm -expressions of delight displayed by those of Salamanca.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">198</a></span></p> - -<p>The next morning we crossed the river, and -branched off in the direction of Madrid. Having -halted a day or two, we again became in motion, -and struck on an excellent road, leading to the -capital. Many exclaimed, "Is this the road to -Madrid? are we really going to the capital of -Spain, the centre of romance"? My mind was -filled with all sorts of illusions, and various anticipations -of pleasure; my rest was disturbed, -and my dreams were of Madrid; every day's -march was counted, every object brought something -new, and I made up my mind to dance -every night when I should arrive. Continuing our -route, we had reached within two days' march of -the city of Segovia, in the kingdom of old Castile, -and occupied a pine wood. On seeing an officer -pass, who was likely to give me every information -relative to the movements of the army, I -issued from my small Portuguese tent, and entered -into conversation with him, which lasted a -considerable time. Being without my cap, I -felt the top of my head extremely hot from the -rays of the sun, and was about to withdraw -several times for a covering, which unluckily I -failed to do. When the dinner-hour arrived, composed -of rice and boiled beef, (without any bread -or biscuit,) my appetite failed, and I laid me down, -in hopes that a few hours' sleep would restore me. -At daylight, the following morning, we were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">199</a></span> -again <i>en route</i>, and had just cleared the sandy -wood, enveloped in dust, when a sudden giddiness -seized me, and I fell from my horse. On -recovering my senses, I found myself supported -by an officer. There was no water to be procured, -and, on overtaking the division, I was -advised to ride gently on to avoid the dust.</p> - -<p>For the first time in Spain, I observed a -Spanish grandee travelling in a carriage drawn -by eight mules, escorted by fourteen servants, -clothed in long yellow coats, with cocked hats, -and all regularly armed, like horse soldiers. The -costume of the peasantry now became somewhat -different; one of that class was walking -by my side, with a sort of spiral cloth cap, -and clad in dark brown, who asked me if I did -not admire a little girl passing on the road, whom -he called a <i>Wappa Chica</i>; she wore also a stiff -spiral cap of cloth, perched on the top of her -head, with round balls of different colours up -each side of it: her hair was plaited on each side -of her head, ending in a huge pig-tail, about eight -inches long, and precisely similar to those worn -by British sailors; the jacket was brown, laced -up the front; a yellow petticoat, reaching just below -the knee, blue stockings, red clocks, shoes, -and silver buckles. Having travelled some leagues,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">200</a></span> -I came to a village, where I observed one of the -commissaries of our division standing at the door -of a cottage, who remarked that I looked very ill, -and asked me where I was going. I told him -"about half a league farther on, when I intended -to lie down under a tree until the troops came up, -as I concluded they would not proceed much -farther that day." He politely begged that I would -partake of breakfast with him, as it was already -prepared, which offer I thankfully accepted. My -fever continued rapidly to increase, so that I -could scarcely sit upright, and I soon began to -talk very incoherently, which induced him to put -me to bed; the division shortly afterwards filed -through the village, and bivouacked half a league -in advance. In the evening, the two other officers -of the company with whom I messed, paid me a -visit, and said, "Why, what is the matter?" -when I replied, "That the commissary had used -me very cruelly, and had been smothering me in -blankets, to prevent my going on to Madrid." -The assistant-surgeon having felt my pulse, asked -whether I would permit him to throw some -water on my head? which I readily assented to, -entreating him to do any thing to make well. -Then, being lifted out of bed, and divested of my -linen garment, I was placed in a chair, while the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">201</a></span> -doctor, standing on a table, emptied two pitchers -of spring water on my crown; which produced a -most painful sensation.</p> - -<p>The following morning my companions assured -me that I could not be permitted to proceed; but -that, as there was a station to be established at -the town of Cuellar, it would be necessary that I -should go thither, when they felt no doubt that -I should speedily recover, so as to be enabled -soon to rejoin them. A car was accordingly procured, -drawn by two fine mules, with a blanket -extended over the top as an awning.</p> - -<p>At the expiration of two days' journey, I -reached the entrance of Cuellar, when a soldier -came forward, and intimated that no sick could -enter the town until the commandant's permission -was obtained; and we were actually detained -nearly two hours roasting in the mid-day sun, -before a free passage was granted us. Much exhausted, -and half suffocated, I at length obtained -a most excellent billet in a gentleman's house, -where I received the greatest attention from an -assistant-surgeon belonging to one of the regiments -quartered there; being unable to quit my -bed.</p> - -<p>At this time the army had possessed itself of -the passes of Segovia and the Guadarama, and -had moved forward on the 11th of August towards<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">202</a></span> -Madrid, having, in the course of their march, -forced the enemy's advanced guard of cavalry -to retire; but in the afternoon these again advanced -from Malajahonda towards Rosas, to reconnoitre -the Portuguese dragoons, who were -drawn up on a rising ground above the latter -village, and made a show of charging, but when -they had arrived sufficiently near to observe the -hardened-looking visages of the sturdy French -heavy horse, who displayed their long shining -weapons, with brass hilts, like the Highland -broadsword, with the exception of being one-third -longer—at such a sight these our allies simultaneously -wheeled about, and scampered off as fast as -their Portuguese horses could trot and gallop, followed -by their unmerciful pursuers, stabbing and -hacking them down, and riding past three pieces -of horse artillery that had been overturned. The -heavy dragoons of the King's German Legion -took to horse as speedily as possible, amidst the -confusion, and, after a good deal of savage sabring, -the enemy retired, leaving at night the captured -guns behind them. El Rey Joseph had retired -with his followers behind the Tagus, and the following -day our army entered Madrid, where the -French had injudiciously left a garrison in the -Buen Retiro, who surrendered themselves prisoners -of war, just as part of the third division, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">203</a></span> -some other detachments, were about to escalade -the works. A vast quantity of stores, powder, -and ball, fell into our hands, besides one hundred -and ninety pieces of cannon, principally dismounted.</p> - -<p>About the 20th of August, a detachment of our -regiment, from England, passed through Cuellar, -but, as they had experienced a long march during -the hot months, an enormous number of them -died, and the sick continued to increase from the -army in such a ratio, that most of us were -ordered to proceed to Salamanca. Accordingly, on -the sixth day after my arrival, I was placed in a -car, drawn by bullocks, to begin another tedious -journey. The sixth division was on parade, having -been left at that station as a corps of observation, -and to protect the sick and the stores of the army.</p> - -<p>That night I travelled a short way, and was -billeted on a very clean house, where the <i>patron</i> -was most anxious to have all the particulars of -the late battle recounted to him; however, finding -that I was not a sufficient master of the Spanish -language to satisfy his curiosity, he was determined -to make up for it by entering into the history -of his own country. It was in vain that I -exerted all my patience, and requested he would -have the goodness to leave the room, pleading my -indisposition in excuse for my apparent rudeness.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">204</a></span> -Having maintained silence for a few minutes, he -offered me every thing in his house, inquired if I -was better, and recommenced his volubility to -such a degree, that I almost became distracted, -and was under the painful necessity of calling -in my servant, who, in half fun and half earnest, -turned him out of the room by the shoulders.</p> - -<p>The next day I reached Arevalo, where the -market was filled with fresh vegetables, a sight -only to be appreciated by those who have travelled -over a dry country, devoid of vegetation. A -smiling <i>muchacha</i>, who sat by the side of a well-made -young Spaniard, jumped up, and handed me -a large bunch of grapes, with a dignified air of -affability and frankness, so peculiar to the lower -orders of that country. I obtained a billet on a -very handsome house, situated in a luxuriant -garden; and, on being supported out of the car, -I was so weak that I fell down, and continued in -fainting fits for some time, my servant all the -while sousing me with water in imitation of <i>the -Doctor</i>. The fascinating <i>Señorita</i> of the house, -about seventeen years of age, very kindly administered -every attention; and at night, with -a small lamp, remained in a recess, in readiness -to offer me liquids, for which I continually -inquired. My recollection did not entirely forsake -me, but my head was in a bad state, so that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">205</a></span> -I fancied I saw groups of monkeys grinning at -the foot of my bed; and, as I was unable to endure -the slender rays of the lamp, I begged of the -young lady to retire. At such a request her -countenance pourtrayed every mark of disappointment: -whether she considered me as one of the -deliverers of her country, or whether so young a -girl, residing in so sequestered a spot, fancied me -under her especial protection, I know not; but -I do know that her amiable solicitude and her -lovely eyes made such an impression, that she -continued the mistress of my thoughts, and heroine -of my fancy, for a long period afterwards.</p> - -<p>Taking my farewell on the following morning, -and apologizing to the little <i>Señorita</i> for my want -of gallantry, I proceeded on my journey, and at -the end of four hours reached the middle of an -extensive plain, when one of the bullocks became -dead lame, and the enraged driver declared vehemently -that he would go no farther; my servant, -therefore, dismounted from my palfrey, and placed -me on its back. We made for the distant steeple, -which skirted the horizon, as the point of our -destination. At the expiration of a toilsome ride, -we reached the <i>Pueblo</i>, and there sojourned until -the next morning. In two more days we reached -Alba de Tormes; I was quartered at an <i>apothecary's -shop</i>, where I lay on the mattress for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">206</a></span> -twelve hours in a sort of stupor; on recovering, -in some degree, my servant fancied that I was -dying, and proposed sending for the Spaniard, -which I would by no means consent to, from -the apprehension that he would bleed me to -death.</p> - -<p>The next day, while quietly passing through a -wood, at a lonely spot, my horse made a sudden -start, and, on looking to the right, I observed a -dead man, perfectly naked, placed against a large -piece of rock. He had been killed at the battle of -Salamanca. His hair was long and grey; his -beard had grown to a considerable length; and his -arms and legs had been placed in an extended -position; in fact, he was in an exact fencing -attitude, in an extraordinary state of preservation, -and presenting, of course, a dreadful spectacle.</p> - -<p>I noticed during the period that I was in Spain, -that those soldiers killed in action, who were exposed -to the rays of the sun, immediately became -a mass of corruption, but of those, on the contrary, -who fell under trees or in shady places, exposed to -heavy dew or rain, the skin became as hard as -leather, and they would remain in that state for a -very considerable period, unless they were devoured -by wild animals or birds of prey. I have -often seen vultures feeding on dead horses (that -had been killed in battle) so fat, that they could<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">207</a></span> -scarcely take wing, or raise themselves from the -ground.</p> - -<p>On reaching Salamanca, I obtained a billet, -on presenting which, I was treated with the -greatest insolence by the man of the house, who -declared that I might enter, but that he had no -accommodation for my servant; under these circumstances, -I was under the necessity of sitting -down in the street, until the soldier went to seek -elsewhere for better success. After some farther -delay, he procured me another on a public notary, -where I was civilly received; but in the middle of -the day my <i>patron</i>, smelling of tobacco and garlic, -came in to take a <i>siesta</i>, in one of the two beds -in a large recess. I asked him if he intended to -sleep there; he replied "<i>Si, Señor</i>." To such an -arrangement I objected; but he would not give up -the point; a struggle then ensued between us, -which lasted some minutes, although eventually I -made him surrender. He was merely a diminutive -old man; but I had become weak from the -effects of my fever; and the scene was so amusing, -that his own son, with a smiling countenance, was -quietly looking on.</p> - -<p>A hospital mate being put in requisition, the -first dose administered to me was an <i>emetic</i>, -and whenever I complained, the same dose was -repeated; therefore, whenever he visited me, I -invariably declared <i>that I was better</i>.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">208</a></span></p> - -<p>Our army had now occupied the heart of Spain, -and the enemy, with rapid strides, were endeavouring -to concentrate in the distant provinces -round our centre, blowing up magazines, and -eating up all before them, like a swarm of locusts. -Napoleon was at this period traversing the wilds -of Russia with his grand army, and his magnificent -and highly-appointed Imperial guard. <i>The -banners of Austria, Prussia, Italy, and the Germanic -States, were marching under his control.</i> -The <i>north</i> and <i>south</i> of Europe were in a blaze, -and had become the extreme points of contest, -which were ultimately to decide this mighty struggle -for supremacy. The victory of Salamanca -had shaken the combinations of the enemy in all -parts of Spain, and put the whole of them in -motion. On the 25th of August they destroyed -their works before Cadiz, leaving behind them -stores, heavy artillery, and mortars, many of the -latter having been cast at Seville, by the order of -the Duke of Dalmatia, for the purpose of throwing -shells into the town of Cadiz.<a name="FNanchor_42_42" id="FNanchor_42_42"></a><a href="#Footnote_42_42" class="fnanchor"><sup>42</sup></a> Some Spaniards -and British immediately advanced from the lines, -and took forcible possession of Seville.</p> - -<p>On the 29th of August, Sir R. Hill, with the -second division, entered Illerena, and pushed on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">209</a></span> -to Ayllones, on the borders of Estremadura; but, -finding the French were retrograding on Cordova -and Granada, for the purpose of communicating -with Joseph, who, in like manner, was forming a -junction with the Duke of Albufera, intending to -make Valencia the centre and the base of his -future operations against Madrid; Sir R. Hill, -thereupon, by a flank movement, marched towards -the city of Medellin, on the left bank of the Guadiana, -so as to be in readiness to act wherever his -presence might be required, or to open his line -with the third, fourth, and light divisions, cantoned -in the vicinity of Madrid.</p> - -<p>The General-in-Chief no sooner saw a probability -of his right flank being cleared of the enemy, -than he set off from Madrid, and concentrated the -first, fifth, sixth, and seventh divisions round -Arevalo, (early in September,) with a force of -cavalry and artillery, passed the Douro, and retook -Valladolid, which had been re-occupied by -the enemy for a short time. On the 19th he -crossed the river Arlanzon, and laid siege to the -old castle of Burgos, bristled with cannon and the -bayonets of its hardy defenders. Various attempts -by escalade, mining, explosions, and breaching -were tried for a month without success, owing to -the want of a sufficiency of battering artillery, and -to the obstinate defence made by the enemy, who<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">210</a></span> -firmly lined the walls, and threw their balls and -bullets with deadly aim against the assailants. -The enemy's vanguard was at Briviesca, and his -main body behind the river Ebro, during the -greater part of the siege.</p> - -<p>In the mean time the second division had moved, -in the middle of September, across the river Guadiana, -through Truxillo Jaraceijo, towards Almaraz, -and then crossed the Tagus by a pontoon -bridge, and continuing its movement on the right -of that river, passed Talavera de la Reyna, and -arrived on the 30th at Toledo, occupying both -banks of the river Tagus. General Sir Rowland -Hill pushed forward his advance to Yepes and -its vicinity, taking the command of the right -wing of the army, composed of the second, third, -fourth, and light divisions, besides cavalry and -artillery stationed in the vicinity of Madrid.</p> - - - -<div class="footnote"> -<p><a name="Footnote_41_41" id="Footnote_41_41"></a><a href="#FNanchor_41_41">41</a> About forty-eight miles.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_42_42" id="Footnote_42_42"></a><a href="#FNanchor_42_42">42</a> One of these mortars was brought to England, and is now -placed on the south side of St. James's Park.</p> -</div> - - - - -<hr /> - -<div class="chapter"> - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">211</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER XI.</h2> -</div> - -<blockquote> -<p class="hang">The author becomes convalescent, and proceeds to rejoin the -army—Guadarama mountains—Park and palace of the Escurial—An -enthusiastic native—A Spanish bandit—British quarters -in Madrid, and description of the city—English theatricals—Renewed -activity of the contending armies—The British troops -evacuate Madrid—Romantic attachments—Alba de Tormes—Re-occupation -of Salamanca—Military discomforts—Skirmishing -affairs—The French obliged to desist from pursuit -through fatigue—Various positions of the British forces during -the winter of 1812–13.</p> -</blockquote> - - -<p>For my part, I had no sooner contrived to get -out of bed at Salamanca, than I began to pace -up and down the room, and in a very few days -gained sufficient strength to be enabled to inhale -the fresh air in the cool of the evening. While -walking slowly along, I met one of the staff doctors -of our division, who expressed much regret -that he had not been aware of my being sick in -that town, and offered every assistance in his -power; I expressed my thanks, but informed him -that I intended to join my regiment. He asked<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">212</a></span> -me if I were mad, and insisted on my giving him -a promise not to think of prosecuting so wild a -scheme for the present; which I was necessitated -to acquiesce in, from a fear that he would effectually -stop my rambles: however, two days afterwards, -I presented myself to the medical board, -which sat daily to examine officers: the group of -<i>medicos</i> were seated round a table, and, having -eyed them particularly, I experienced great relief -at finding the worthy doctor did not form one of -the party. I felt considerable agitation, (from a -fear that they would not sanction my departure,) -which gave me a colour; in fact, I reported myself -in perfect health, and obtained permission -to proceed to rejoin the army with a strong detachment, -who were about to depart for that purpose. -At five o'clock next morning, the day -before I was to recommence my journey, my -servant entered my quarter, and announced that -my mule had been stolen, during the night, out -of the stable, and that my horse had been running -about loose, with the door wide open. This unwelcome -intelligence caused me to tremble so -violently, that I sank down on the bed, nor do -I ever recollect being so agitated in my life, for -I had no means left to supply its place, and I -could not have walked in my weak state half a -league. Fortunately an officer, who had just come<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">213</a></span> -from England to join us, relieved my anxiety, -by offering to carry my baggage on one of his -animals.</p> - -<p>At daylight the next morning we started. The -spangled dew still hung on the trees, the morning -breeze refreshed my body and mind, and with -exhilarated spirits I felt as if new life and fresh -vigour had been conveyed throughout my frame. -The dead French soldier was still stationary in -the wood, and in exactly the same position already -described. On re-entering Alba de Tormes, -I passed the <i>apothecary's shop</i>, with exultation, -which only four weeks before I had entered in -such a miserable plight. When we passed through -Arevalo, one of the narrow streets leading to -the Plaza was choked up with cars from the city -of Burgos, crammed to overloading with exhausted, -speechless, and wounded Highlanders, -covered with hot sand, and many of them slumbering -unto death; their pallid countenances portended -the speedy dissolution of their lingering -sufferings, while their sable plumes and torn tartans -hung loosely on the pointed stakes, which -formed the temporary sides of the rude vehicles. -I searched in vain, through every narrow avenue, -and amongst the numerous convents and monasteries, -for the house of the young lady who had -been so attentive to me in that town. I well<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">214</a></span> -recollected the high walls of one of those fabrics -inclosing one side of the garden; I was, therefore, -in hopes that in some spot of difficult access, -I should find the fair object of my solicitude. -The whole of the following day (during our halt) -was passed, however, in fruitless search.</p> - -<p>Continuing the march, our little column consisted -of three hundred and fifty men, and when -within sight of the distant villages, which were -surrounded by extensive plains, the church bells -rang merry peals. Almost the whole of these -places had been entrenched by temporary works, -and the churches loopholed by the French posts -of communication, to protect their small detachments -from being destroyed or cut off by the -<i>guerillas</i>, or surprised by the infuriated peasantry. -Shortly before we reached the Guadarama mountains, -we struck into the high road to Madrid; -for many miles there was scarcely a house to be -seen. At length we came to a <i>venta</i>, on the -right of the road, but the house had been thoroughly -gutted, and it was impossible for the -owners of it to procure any thing for us to eat. -The country bore a very solitary aspect until we -began to ascend the pass by a paved road, cut in -a zigzag direction up the face of the mountain, -on the top of which stands a marble fountain. -The prospect from this point is very grand, commanding<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">215</a></span> -a distant view of Madrid, of the palace of -the Escurial, and of the rugged mountains extending -towards Segovia, which are covered with -snow during the greater portion of the year. The -poor village of the Guadarama is situated in a -valley at the foot of the grand pass, in the kingdom -of new Castile.</p> - -<p>Towards evening, our horses being in some -degree refreshed, we rode into the park of the -Escurial, which is of considerable extent, and -lies adjacent to the village, producing pretty -good pasturage, but infested by prowling wolves -and wild boars. The trees are generally of small -growth, consisting of oak, carob, ash, and cork. -The front of the palace of the Escurial looks -towards the mountains of the Guadarama, and is -built of a grey granite, in the shape of a gridiron. -This culinary utensil is represented in the books -of mass, on the doors, and in various parts of the -building, which is perforated by innumerable windows. -The pantheon of the palace is octagon, composed -of marble; about fourteen niches are occupied -by embalmed kings and queens; and there are a -variety of other curiosities worthy the observation -of the traveller. Returning towards the village, -the old man of the house assured us the effect of the -extraordinary edifice we had explored was nothing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">216</a></span> -to the wonder and astonishment we should experience -at the grand bull fights of Spain. The tears -rolled down his furrowed cheeks as he ran about -the room, (which was paved with red tiles,) representing -the wild Andalusian bull staring with -surprise on first entering the arena; and then, -getting astride of a chair, showed us how the <i>Picador</i> -received the bellowing bull on his lance, and -the way he was frequently tossed, mangled, and -killed, by the infuriated animal. Then again, he -skipped and danced about the room to represent -the men insinuating the pointed darts and crackers -into the animal's neck; and finally gave us the -<i>graceful Matador</i>, with a red cloak slung over one -arm, and a short sword in his hand, making his -obeisance with a profound bend to the <i>señoras</i> -and <i>caballeros</i>, who excite him by countless -<i>vivas</i>, and the waving of the white hands, and -whiter pocket-handkerchiefs, to dispatch the staggering -bull at one thrust. At length the ancient -<i>caballero</i> became so much exhausted by his exertions -and feelings, that he fell back motionless in -his chair, exclaiming, "<i>Oh, los ladrones Franceses!</i> -they have eaten up all our Andalusian bulls, -killed our poultry, corrupted all our <i>mozas</i>, and -knocked all our <i>Santa Marias</i> from the altars, -and out of their <i>sacred niches</i> by the road side."</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">217</a></span></p> - -<p>During this rhodomontade we remained quiet -spectators, quaffing the excellent wine which our -host had extracted from a concealed deposit.</p> - -<p>Taking our departure the next morning, two -of us being some short distance behind the detachment, -at a very lonely spot, we observed a -Spaniard of most ferocious aspect, with huge -mustachios, a capacious <i>sombrero</i>, and clad in a -leathern jacket, like a cuirass, with a short broad -sword by his side, and a brace of pistols in his -broad belt, which was buckled round his waist. -We were instantly convinced that he was a robber -on the look out, in the capacity of a spy, for his -hidden <i>camarados</i>; however, saluting him as we -passed, which he returned by a cold and distant -bend of the head, the few baggage animals being in -sight, we thought it necessary to warn the soldiers -in charge to be on their guard, although, generally -speaking, the British might pass all over the country -without danger; yet some robberies had been -committed in Spain and Portugal also by banditti.</p> - -<p>This day we halted at the village of Rosas, -about two leagues from the capital. The country -is bare and hilly, and even when within half a -mile of Madrid, the traveller might fancy himself -in a bare wilderness, as the town stands isolated -in the midst of a rugged plain, skirted on the north -side by distant mountains, and there is not the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">218</a></span> -least sign of traffic, with the exception of a few -mules or asses loaded with chopped straw, the -usual forage (instead of hay) given to animals; all -other vegetation being parched up, and even the -shallow river of the Manzanares having at that -time ceased to flow.</p> - -<p>After the short absence of seven weeks, having -travelled, as already described, more than two -hundred and thirty miles, and nearly recovered -from the effects of my fever, I rejoined our first -brigade quartered in Madrid, as well as the third -division; the second brigade was stationed two -leagues from the town, in support of those troops -cantoned in the line of the Tagus. Here I received -the welcome information, that since I had -quitted the division they had not seen the enemy. -The troops were quartered in the various convents -and monasteries, and the officers were billeted -on the most splendid houses; many of these -had white papers stuck on the windows, to denote -that the former occupiers of them had followed -the fortunes and court of <i>El Rey Joseph</i>, thereby -deserting their country's cause.</p> - -<p>One of my friends, whom I had left under a -tree, I found occupying the house of a marquis, -and decorating and perfuming himself before a -splendid toilette, previously to making his bow to -the beautiful and attractive object of all his desires,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">219</a></span> -who had invited him to spend that evening at her -house. He described to me their proud entry -into Madrid as a conquering army; then the -variegated drapery hanging from the windows, the -acclamations of the people, and all the beauty of -the place welcoming them, striking guitars, tambourines, -and castanets, with eyes beaming love -and admiration in a manner indescribable, known -and felt only by those who have won the battle, -after having been wandering under the heaven's -bright blue canopy for sixty days, and traversing -hundreds of miles over burning plains. Another -officer reposed his limbs on a bed of down, (enveloped -by white satin curtains edged with long -gold bullion,) encompassed by mirrors, the whole -surmounted by a gilded helmet, adorned with a -noble plume of ostrich feathers. The rest of the -furniture in this superb mansion was composed of -the most costly materials.</p> - -<p>Madrid is a compact town; the lower windows -of all the monasteries and houses are defended by -iron bars; many of the streets are spacious, and -the whole of them are remarkably clean. The -Plaza Major is a square of lofty houses, many of -them stained of various colours; the windows are -very close together, out of which hang mats and -drapery of a variety of striped patterns, to shade<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">220</a></span> -the rooms from the mid-day sun. Here is the -principal market for vegetables and other commodities, -and it invariably presents a bustling and -busy scene. The Royal Palace is of a square -form, and surrounds an interior court-yard, which -has two gateways. The grand staircase rises out -of the court-yard near the principal entrance; it -is a most splendid work, wide and lofty, leading -into the principal suite of rooms, magnificently -furnished. As we passed through them, I noticed -the man in charge locking the doors after us: -when, therefore, the curiosity of the admiring -spectators was satisfied, we were ushered into -another, and again made prisoners for the time -being. A picture, beautifully executed, represented -Napoleon in his younger days crossing the -Alps, at the head of his bare-footed army, and -was considered, by those who had seen him, to -be an exact likeness; the face was extremely -handsome. The Callé Major and Alcala are the -principal streets of the town; the latter is wide -and spacious, lined by large buildings, leading -direct into the <i>Prádo</i>, which is much admired -for its broad walks, divided into avenues by rows -of trees, and running the whole length of one side -of the town, being terminated at each end by gates -leading from it. On the north side stands the -Buén Retiro, encompassed by temporary works,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">221</a></span> -(which had been thrown up by the French,) gardens, -and pleasure grounds.</p> - -<p>The fountains stand at certain distances from -each other in the middle of the walks, and are -framed after antique models. The water from -one of them is esteemed the best in the town; -the broad walk in the centre is adorned by these -cascades, and is crowded every evening by the -best company. It is here the stranger may examine, -with advantage, the costume, style, and -gait of the Spanish ladies. Their dress is composed -of a mantilla or veil, gracefully thrown over -the head, a long-waisted satin body, black silk -petticoats, fringed from the knee downwards, -white silk stockings, with open clocks, kid shoes, -of white or black; they carry a large fan in their -little hands, which they open and shut as they -glide along; it serves to shade them from the sun, -or to salute their different acquaintances as they -pass, which they do by shaking the fan rapidly, -and simpering an affable smile.</p> - -<p>At sunset the bells of the convents and churches -give notice for offering up the evening prayer to -the Virgin; instantaneously the crowd becomes -stationary, the <i>Caballeros</i> take off their hats and -remove the cigars from their mouths, the <i>Señoras</i> -cover their faces with their fans, while they inwardly -mutter a short prayer. At the expiration<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">222</a></span> -of a few minutes, the profound silence is broken, -when all again are in motion. In this place, dedicated -to pleasure, our time was so divided as to -be occupied night and day, either in dancing or -at the <i>tertúlias</i>; public balls were also held twice -a week at the <i>Callé de Baños</i> and <i>el Principe</i>.</p> - -<p>The officers of our division were anxious to -display their powers as actors to their beloved -<i>señoritas</i>; therefore, among other things, they -were occupied in ordering dresses, and studying -their theatrical parts. "The Revenge" was fixed -upon as the tragedy to astonish the Spaniards. -Capt. Kent, of the rifle corps, played the part of -Zanga, in <i>El Teátro del Principe</i>, with due solemnity, -and the piece went off in silence, until -he began to move backwards and forwards, like the -pendulum of a clock, his sinewy arm and clenched -fist, cased in a black silk stocking, or glove, -encircled by a shining bracelet—which caused -the muleteers in the gallery to roar with laughter. -The <i>señoras</i> tittered, and held their fans to their -faces. During the remainder of the evening poor -<i>Zanga</i> was treated more like a comic than a -tragic character, and whenever he raised his arm, -which he had frequent occasion to do, the same -round of salutations greeted him on all sides, -such as "<i>Arré Múlo</i>," &c. &c. At the conclusion -of the piece, a Spaniard and a girl danced<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">223</a></span> -a <i>bolero</i>, in inimitable style: both of them were -habited in male attire; the black hair of the -female was clubbed up behind, and tied with a -bunch of ribbons hanging down her back; she -wore a richly embroidered silk jacket, white kerseymere -breeches, fitting tight to the shape, white -silk stockings, shoes, and buckles. She rattled -the <i>castanets</i> exquisitely, and beat admirable time -with her pretty little feet.</p> - -<p>On the 21st of October our division was hastily -concentrated, and first moved to some lonely villages, -and then to Alcala de Henarez, one of the -principal universities of Spain. On the night of -the 21st the Marquis of Wellington raised the -siege of the castle of Burgos, and slowly retired -on the Douro, followed by Gen. Souham. Joseph -and the Duke of Dalmatia had also formed a -junction, and were making various demonstrations -on the line of the Tagus. On the 22nd, the -second division was put in motion on that river -to observe the enemy's movements. On the 24th, -the third division, which had continued in Madrid, -moved towards Pinto, on the road to Aranjuez, -in support of the fourth and second divisions. -On the 26th, the second division crossed -to the right bank of the Tagus, and extended its -left on the Jarama. On the same day we marched -four leagues and a half from Alcala, and entered<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">224</a></span> -Arganda, which is situated on the high road -from Valencia. The enemy continued to make -such a variety of movements, that it was impossible -to ascertain positively whether he would -attempt his grand push on the south or east side -of Madrid, which obliged General Hill to show -front on two sides of a square, for the protection -of the great roads leading towards the capital, -across the rivers Tagus, Jarama, and Henarez.</p> - -<p>At ten o'clock at night (of the same day we -had entered Arganda,) the bugle-horns sounded -the assembly, which never occurred without the -most urgent necessity, as it was not customary -for the horns to sound when manœuvring near the -enemy, except under peculiar circumstances. The -orderlies usually passed round, and gave the word -to <i>pack up and accoutre</i>, no farther questions -being asked either by officers or soldiers, and all -repaired to the alarm post, and patiently awaited -farther orders; and that so often without seeing -an enemy, owing to the variety of marches and -countermarches in war, that such orders had -ceased to be a novelty or any surprise to us. The -division soon fell in: I had to precede the column -on duty with another officer, who was mounted -on a sorry lank pony, which, on being touched -on the near or off side, kicked out with one leg -at every mule that passed him, in the most singular<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">225</a></span> -manner. I never recollect laughing more -heartily; the muleteers cursed and swore, and -particularly one who received a severe kick on -the leg.</p> - -<p>This class of men wear a large hat, or a pocket-handkerchief -of various colours, tied tight round -the head, with the corner hanging down their -backs, and a sort of red Moorish sash round the -loins, dark blue, or green velveteen breeches, -open at the knee, and leather gaiters, (with innumerable -buttons up the sides,) open in the middle, -so as to show the calf of the leg to advantage. -The mules are very gaily caparisoned, with bells -at the head, and the backs closely shaved; the -tails tied up in bunch, with red or other coloured -worsted binding; and when they are loaded, -the men sit on the top astride, singing boisterously. -They usually bivouac in the woods, when -the day's journey is finished, cover themselves -with a tarpauling, and allow their mules to -browse about all night. These muleteers robbed -the English army of hundreds of mules during -the war. I lost two myself, and, during the time -the light division was quartered in Madrid, the -<i>ladrones</i> caused false keys to be made to fit the -stable-doors, and actually, in the middle of the -day, took the animals clear off, which were never -afterwards heard of.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">226</a></span></p> - -<p>At the end of a tedious night march, the division -bivouacked in the morning on a rising ground, -about a mile from Alcala, watching the right -bank of the river Henarez, and the cross-road -leading from Arganda; the enemy, however, did -not make their appearance, and at night we entered -the town. The troops lay on their arms -under the piazzas, which run through nearly all -the principal streets; the inhabitants were so -fearful that we might become engaged in the -streets, that they illuminated the town for three -successive nights.</p> - -<p>On the 30th we crossed the Jarama at a bridge -near St. Fernando, which was already mined to -blow up, and continued our retreat on Madrid. -A slight affair also took place more to the right, -at Puente Largo, between the van of the enemy -and our troops, who had formed a junction with -us from Cadiz. The General-in-chief, on the -same day, made a movement to his left towards -Ruêda, on the left of the Douro, causing the -bridges to be destroyed, right and left, on that -river, to guard his flanks, to enable him to keep -open his communication with his right wing at -Madrid, and to cover its rear and left flank while -retrograding from that place, through Arevalo to -Salamanca.</p> - -<p>Towards nightfall, as we approached Madrid, a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">227</a></span> -slight rain fell, and when within a league of the -town, the whole of the dismounted cannon taken -from the enemy in the <i>Buén Retiro</i> were blown -up with a tremendous explosion, which quite -convinced us that a retreat was decided on. We -hastily traversed, by column of companies, the -long walks of the <i>Prádo</i>, which reverberated with -the tramping of the soldiers' footsteps, and on -passing the last gate of the town without a halt, -we observed the bright fires of a portion of our -army in bivouac on the distant hills, on the road -leading to the Guadarama, which sight completed -the gloomy thoughts of many who had formed attachments, -and had, until this moment, cherished -hopes of once again passing a short time in the -society of the fair objects who had captivated -their hearts in Madrid. We filed to the summit -of the comfortless bleak hills, and as our baggage -did not reach us until two hours before daylight, -we passed a tolerably uncomfortable night.</p> - -<p>At nine o'clock in the morning, with gladdened -hearts, we received orders again to advance on -Madrid, but our anticipations were of short duration, -as we merely halted without the walls to -cover the troops who had been marching all night -from the direction of Arganda and Aranjuez.</p> - -<p>Many of the ladies came on the walks to take -their last farewell, and just as we were moving<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">228</a></span> -off, forming the rear guard, in the afternoon of -the 31st, a beautiful girl, lightly clothed, refused -to leave her lover, an English officer in the Portuguese -Caçadores, who dismounted, tied his -silk handkerchief round her neck, and placed her -sideways on his horse. Towards evening the -wind blew keenly, and I saw her enveloped in a -soldier's great-coat. Many females left their -homes in a similar manner with the French -officers, and travelled about with the army, on -horseback, and astride, clad in uniform of the -Polish lancers, or hussars, splendidly embroidered, -with crimson trowsers, made very wide, in -the Cossack fashion. The ladies of Spain frequently -ride astride, with pantaloons and hessian -boots, with a habit buttoning up before and behind, -and, when they are on horseback, it is unfastened -and hangs down on each side, to conceal -their legs from view.</p> - -<p>On the 1st of November we bivouacked in the -park of the Escurial, where two wild boars galloped -through the lines, and caused great confusion; -a soldier of the 52d was overturned by one -of them, which bounded over him without doing -any further damage.</p> - -<p>During the retreat the enemy did not press us, -nor were our marches unusually long; in fact, -every thing went on so regularly, that several<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">229</a></span> -days' march passed with merely the usual incidents. -The whole army from Burgos and Madrid -were now in junction, the left marching on the -heights of St. Christoval, to cover Salamanca, and -the right on Alba de Tormes, to take up a line -of defence on the right bank of the Tormes.</p> - -<p>On the evening of the 7th, our division reached -within a league and a half of Alba, where it drew -up until temporary defences were constructed, to -resist the enemy at that small town. The country -was perfectly open, without a house or tree to -be seen, and I was contemplating the dreary -prospect, and regretting the loss of my blanket, -placed under the saddle of my horse, which I had -sent to the rear, sick, on the previous morning. -As the night closed on us, the rain began to pour -down in torrents; we were without food, or a -particle of wood to light fires.</p> - -<p>Before daybreak we stood to our arms, looking -out for the enemy: what a moment for an engagement, -our clothes completely soaked through! -At about eleven o'clock, the order came to retire, -when we filed through the narrow streets of Alba, -and crossed the bridge, where we found sappers -hard at work, mining, and laying barrels of powder -to blow up the centre arch, if necessary. -The river Tormes had swollen considerably, owing -to the torrents from the mountains: therefore the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">230</a></span> -fords became difficult and uncertain. Continuing -our march on the left of the river, we entered -a dripping wood, half-way to Salamanca, when -we found our baggage waiting for us. The division -being dismissed, all the trees were filled with -soldiers, cutting and tearing down huge branches -to build huts.</p> - -<p>In a short time great fires blazed up in every -direction, while the soldiers encircled them with -joyful countenances. Having been disencumbered -of our drenched clothes, and rations having been -served out, we set to work making dumplings; -before dark the canteens were laid with smoking -tea, rum, hot puddings, and beef. This was, indeed, -a relishing and luxurious meal. The whole -of the spirits having been exhausted, a heavy -slumber (under a tottering hut) put an end to -our carousal.</p> - -<p>The next morning, before daylight, we were -again under arms, and moved towards Salamanca, -to occupy that town with the first division -and some Spaniards. Every morning we assembled -an hour before daybreak, without its walls, -waiting the approach of the enemy. I noticed -the Spanish officers invariably covering their -mouths, before the sun had risen, with their -cloaks, and blowing the smoke of their cigars -through their noses.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">231</a></span></p> - -<p>The Duke of Dalmatia moved slowly and with -great caution, and evidently wishing, if possible, -to force us to retire without coming to blows. -His army had been collected at vast trouble, and -by enormous marching; many of his troops had -marched, within the last three months and a half, -over seven or eight hundred miles of ground. -On the 10th, the enemy made a strong reconnoissance -in front of Alba de Tormes, but, after a -heavy firing of artillery, they drew off at finding -they could make no impression. On the 12th, -some musketry was distinctly heard in the direction -of the position of San Christoval. Our -division had been dismissed as usual early in the -morning, but was again formed, and ordered to -crown those heights, where we remained the -whole day, the alarm having been occasioned by -a few Spanish <i>guerillas</i> firing at the French -cavalry.</p> - -<p>On the 14th, we all left Salamanca, and moved -by the left bank of the Tormes, on the road towards -Alba de Tormes, the enemy having crossed -the river by some fords, two leagues above that -town. As soon as this movement was ascertained -by the General-in-chief, he made a reconnoissance -under a fire of cannon, and found the -enemy strongly posted on the left of the Tormes, -at Mozarbes; the second division remained near<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">232</a></span> -Alba. In the evening our advance fell back, and -the whole army was collected in the neighbourhood -of the Arapiles, and showed front in the -same direction as at the previous battle; it was -supposed during the night by every one, that a -great action would be fought on the following -day. The country was illuminated for miles -around from the quantity of fires, which marked -the line of our bivouac. All hands caroused until -nearly midnight, being fully determined to make -themselves happy previously to the supposed approaching -struggle; then, stretching themselves -under the trees or around the fires, they tranquilly -slept until an hour before daybreak, when -we formed and stood to our arms, and were again -dismissed.</p> - -<p>At noon the baggage animals were ordered to -the rear, and soon after we observed great masses -of our army, moving in dense columns from the -right by echelon of divisions towards the great -forest. The enemy had laboured hard to strengthen -Mozarbes, as a <i>point d'appui</i>, under cover -of which they continued to extend their left at a -distance, to outflank our right, and to threaten -our communications with Ciudad Rodrigo. At -about two o'clock in the afternoon, our division -followed the movements of the army. The rain -had begun at mid-day, and now fell in torrents,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">233</a></span> -and we passed a miserable night under the trees. -As soon as the road was distinguishable in the -morning, we were again on the march, ankle-deep -in mud, which tore the shoes from off the -soldiers' feet; in this manner we trudged along -the whole day; towards evening we saw the -enemy on our left<a name="FNanchor_43_43" id="FNanchor_43_43"></a><a href="#Footnote_43_43" class="fnanchor"><sup>43</sup></a> flank, when a little cannonading -took place. One hour after nightfall, we drew -up under the trees, hungry, and in the most -miserable plight; the fires were kindled with difficulty, -and while roasting on one side, we were -shivering and perishing on the other, the rain still -pouring down most unmercifully, as if the very -flood-gates of the heavens had opened on us; for -we were literally flooded.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the 17th, not having received -any orders to move, we were in groups -roasting acorns to satisfy the cravings of hunger, -when an officer, who had ridden a short way to -the left, came unexpectedly on the French heavy -horse, who were stealing through the wood, and -would have made a prisoner of him, had it not -been for the speed of his English horse, which -was at full gallop as he passed us, calling out, -"The enemy's cavalry!" "Fall in!" "Join the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">234</a></span> -ranks!" The division were only waiting for orders -to move off, and instantly seized their arms and -debouched from the wood, and formed contiguous -columns, with our horse-artillery filling up the -intervals. A few of the enemy's horse, with polished -helmets, and covered with white cloaks, -appeared moving backwards and forwards amongst -the trees, looking at us. Two officers of infantry, -mounted on English horses, went to reconnoitre -them, when the enemy tried to decoy them into -the thicket. A troop of light horse were formed -on our left flank, with sloped swords, but they did -not throw out any skirmishers to feel the enemy -in front. After a short time, the division retired, -and crossed a narrow rivulet, and re-formed. One -company of our regiment was left amongst some -old houses on the margin of the stream, when -some French dragoons slowly came forward to -look at us; one in particular went to our right, -as if he intended to cross the stream, when a German -hussar, (I believe an orderly,) went towards -him, and challenged the Frenchman to single -combat, provided he would cross the water. The -Frenchman laughed, and made a similar proposal -to him, as he approached quite close to the edge -of the water: thereupon the German advanced, -but instead of fighting they entered into a jocular -conversation, and parted very good friends. Our<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">235</a></span> -division again went to the right about, and moved -off to the rear; fortunately the road continued -very wide, which enabled us to march in column -of quarter distance, with screwed bayonets, and -ready to form squares. The soldiers of the division -bore the wet and privation with unexampled -fortitude; nor did they lose their organization. -At three o'clock in the afternoon, things -began to look black; we heard that all the -baggage had been captured, and that Lieut.-Gen. -Sir E. Paget was taken prisoner; all this having -occurred on the very road which it was absolutely -necessary for us to traverse.</p> - -<p>The Marquis of Wellington at this time joined -us, and continued riding on the left flank, and quite -close to our column, for he could not well join -the main body of his army, as the enemy's horse -scoured the road, and all our cavalry had retired. -It was one of the chances of war, and could not -be wondered at in a forest of such an amazing extent, -that the army was three days passing through -it. The French heavy horse continued to accompany -us on each flank amongst the trees, and -frequently spoke to the soldiers in the ranks. -We made two halts, to keep the men fresh, and -in good order to engage, and then resumed a -quick march, but not so rapid as to cause any -soldiers to be left behind. The column preserved<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">236</a></span> -a profound silence; not a shot was discharged, -for, had we begun to fire, the noise would have -brought from all quarters the enemy, who could -not be aware otherwise of our isolated march.</p> - -<p>Just before we reached a break in the forest, at -four o'clock, it was absolutely necessary to detach -a few skirmishers to prevent the audacious -French horse from almost mixing in our ranks. -The enemy's infantry were now coming up, mixed -with their cavalry. Owing to the reverberation -in the wood and dense atmosphere, the report of -each musket sounded as loud as a three-pound -mountain gun. The Marquis of Wellington made -a sweep round the column, to examine for the -best fighting ground, while a lively firing of musketry -took place close on the left, and in rear of -our column, intermixed with the shouting of our -assailants and the whizzing of bullets. As we -emerged from the forest, to our surprise we were -saluted on the left by a number of the enemy's cannon, -posted on a high hill just above San Muñoz. -The division broke into double time across the -plain, about half a mile, and made for the ford of -the river Helebra. The second brigade branched -off to the right to cross elsewhere, to extend a -line of defence behind its banks. The seventh -division was already formed in close columns on -the other side of the river, near San Muñoz, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">237</a></span> -suffering terribly from the effect of the round -shot.</p> - -<p>Two squadrons of our heavy dragoons came -forward to protect us over the valley. We had -no sooner reached the river, than we plunged in -up to our middles in water, (under a sharp fire -of artillery,) and we were obliged to scramble up -the steep bank, (having missed the ford,) by which -the troops were thrown into a momentary malformation. -While we were forming up in a hurried -manner behind the horse-artillery, who were -drawn up to protect the ford, the Marquis of -Wellington rode up in front of the left of number -one company, and looked placidly at them, saying, -"The enemy must not cross here." At this -moment a round-shot carried away one of our -officer's legs, and knocked a German hussar from -his horse, leaving his hands hanging by a few -shreds or sinews, notwithstanding which he got -up and walked off, with an agonized countenance, -and his head bent forward, resting on his -breast.</p> - -<p>The three companies of our regiment who had -been left in the opposite wood, now issued out -at full speed, pursued by the enemy, and were -obliged to run the gauntlet across the plain, with -the round shot of both armies flying over their -heads. The second brigade, which had already<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">238</a></span> -formed on our left, were keeping up a sharp fire -of musketry, to oppose the French crossing the -river. A Portuguese regiment was stationary, in -close column, two hundred yards behind us. I -saw three cannon-balls strike in precisely the -same spot, carrying away a number of men each -time. The firing of artillery and musketry continued -until after dark, and then gradually died -away, when the soldiers of the contending armies -approached the river for water, and amicably -chatted to each other in their different languages.</p> - -<p>The French infantry wore broad-toed shoes, -studded with nails, wide trowsers of Spanish -brown, a brown hairy knapsack, a broad leather-topped -cap, decorated with a ball, and shining -scales, and fronted by a brazen eagle, with extended -wings. In action they usually appeared in light -grey great coats, decorated with red or green -worsted epaulettes, belts outside, without any -breastplates, with short sleeves, slashed at the -cuff, to enable them to handle their arms, and -prime and load with facility. Their flints were -excellent, but the powder of their cartridges -coarse; that of the British army was remarkably -fine, but their flints were indifferent.</p> - -<p>During this day the rain had held up for eight -hours, but after dark it again fell heavily. Beef -was served out, without biscuit; our cooking was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">239</a></span> -speedily made, as we toasted it on ramrods. -After another wretched night, about two hours -before daybreak, the soldiers began to clean their -arms, by the light of the fires, to prepare for the -coming morning. Day broke, but the enemy -made no attempt to molest us, and for two tedious -hours we continued without any order to move, -owing to a stream, four hundred yards, behind -us, which had detained the other division some -hours in crossing it. As we moved off, the dead -and the dying lay under the trees, (the trunks of -many of them in flames,) pale and shivering, with -their bloody congealed bandages, imploring us -not to leave them in that horrible situation, in -the middle of the forest in the depth of winter. -However, to attempt to afford them assistance -was impossible. Every individual had enough to -do to drag himself along, after three days' privation. -The stream we had to cross was only a -few yards wide, but so deep that the soldiers -were forced to cross it by single files over a tree, -which had been felled and thrown across; had -the enemy been aware of such an obstacle, we -should have had a terrible struggle at this point; -but the French army had suffered so much during -the pursuit that they could no longer follow, and -became glad of a halt; and we equally glad to -get rid of such disagreeable neighbours. Numerous<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">240</a></span> -soldiers from the other divisions of the -army, (which retired in three columns,) fell out, -and kept up a heavy firing, right and left, in the -wood at wild pigs, or any other animal they could -see. Many hundreds of these exhausted men -fell into the hands of the enemy, and when they -arrived at Salamanca, <i>El Rey Joseph</i> gave the -English prisoners a <i>pecéta</i> each.</p> - -<p>During this day's march the weather was fine, -but the road was overflowed, and up to the men's -knees for many miles. Two hours after dark we -drew up on a bare hill, clear of the forest; the -atmosphere became frosty, but there was scarcely -any wood to be obtained, and we spent another -shivering night (without rations), gazing at the -starry heavens, and counting the dreary hours.</p> - -<p>Early on the 19th we moved off. The twentieth -Portuguese regiment, eight hundred strong, -which had come from the south with Col. Skerret, -and had been attached to our division the morning -we left Madrid, could only now muster half -that number of men in the ranks, owing to the -cold and not being accustomed to campaigning; -and they were obliged to fall out of the column of -march to halt for their stragglers. The light -division still continued in wonderfully good order, -and reached Rodrigo on that day, and bivouacked -a mile from the walls of the town, without suffering<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">241</a></span> -scarcely any loss, except from the enemy's -balls the day they were engaged.</p> - -<p>Six divisions of the army entered Portugal for -winter cantonments; the second division crossed -the Sierra de Gata, and took up its quarters in the -vicinity of Coria, in Spanish Estremadura, and -the light division remained near Rodrigo, on the -left bank of the Agueda; the head-quarters of the -first brigade being at Gallegos, and those of the -second brigade at Fuente de Guinaldo.</p> - -<p>The Marquis of Wellington established his -head-quarters at Frenada, in Portugal, as usual. -There Señor Fuentes, a good-looking Spaniard, -used to play on the guitar, and sing romances. -One air in particular I well remember hearing him -sing at a dinner party at Gallegos; it was also -sung by the Spanish <i>muchachas</i> in all the <i>puéblos</i> -and hamlets, soon after the Duke of Ragusa's -defeat at Salamanca. The conclusion of each -stanza was as follows:—</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<div class="poem"> -<div class="stanza"> - <div class="i0">Adónde vayas Marmont? Adónde vayas Marmont,</div> - <div class="i0">Tan tempráno de a mañana? Si te cogé Vellington;</div> - <div class="i0">Ah! Marmont, Marmont, Marmont!</div> -</div> -</div> -</div> - - - -<div class="footnote"> -<p><a name="Footnote_43_43" id="Footnote_43_43"></a><a href="#FNanchor_43_43">43</a> On the right as we were retiring, but, when we faced about, -on the left flank, <i>à la militaire</i>.</p> -</div> - - - - -<hr /> - -<div class="chapter"> - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">242</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER XII.</h2> -</div> - -<blockquote> -<p class="hang">The light division reviewed by the Commander-in-chief—Reinforcements -from England—The army again in motion—Encampment -of the light division between Rodrigo and Salamanca—The -German hussars—March to Salamanca, the French retreating—Scene -in the Cathedral at Salamanca—Crossing the -Tormes, and progress of the march—Passage of the Esla—Affair -at Toro with the French heavy horse—Concentration of -the whole army, and march through Valencia towards Burgos—An -accommodating priest—Capture of French baggage and -prisoners—Details of the battle of Vittoria.</p> -</blockquote> - - -<p>Early in May, 1813, the light division, commanded -by Major-Gen. Baron C. Alten, formed -line in the plain, near Gallegos, with one regiment -of the German hussars, and a brigade of horse -artillery, for the purpose of passing in review before -the Marquis of Wellington, who appeared on -the ground encircled by a numerous and brilliant -staff.</p> - -<p>During the winter we had remained cantoned -by regiments on the Spanish frontier, on the left of -the Agueda, in the different villages, during which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">243</a></span> -period we, us well as the whole army, had received -various reinforcements from England, the greater -proportion of whom had continued in their quarters -in Portugal, and near Coria, in Estremadura. -The 10th, 15th, and 18th hussars had recently -landed at Lisbon, and also the household brigade, -consisting of two regiments of Life Guards and -the Royal Horse Guards. Every effort had been -made by the General-in-chief to make the infantry -as effective as possible, and the great depôt -was removed from <i>Belem</i> to <i>Santarem</i>. Previously -to our advance, the great coats belonging -to the soldiers were delivered into store, it being -considered that the blanket was a sufficient covering -for them at night, the more particularly as -tents were served out for the use of the whole -army, in the proportion of three to each company, -to be carried by the mules that had formerly conveyed -the iron camp-kettles for cooking;<a name="FNanchor_44_44" id="FNanchor_44_44"></a><a href="#Footnote_44_44" class="fnanchor"><sup>44</sup></a> instead<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">244</a></span> -of which a light tin kettle, between every six -men, was substituted, to be strapped on their -knapsacks, and carried alternately on the march. -Each man was provided with a reasonable supply -of necessaries, including three pairs of shoes, and -an extra pair of soles and heels, in his knapsack. -The daily allowance of rations for soldiers and -officers consisted of one pound of beef, one of -biscuit, and a small allowance of rum or wine; -the former was invariably preferred by the old -soldiers, although frequently much adulterated by -the mischievous <i>capitras</i>.<a name="FNanchor_45_45" id="FNanchor_45_45"></a><a href="#Footnote_45_45" class="fnanchor"><sup>45</sup></a></p> - -<p>The left of the army being already in motion -from the interior of Portugal, the second and light -divisions concentrated on the 20th of May; the -former crossed the Sierra de Gata, near Baños, -the following morning, which brought it in communication<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">245</a></span> -with our right; our division forded -to the right bank of the Agueda the same day, -and encamped on the skirts of the extensive forest -situated between Rodrigo and Salamanca. The -German hussars rode up, smoking their pipes, -and singing some delightful airs, their half squadrons -at intervals joining in chorus. We had -heard that the hussar brigade was to supersede -these veterans, and to act with our division: the -whole of us left our canvas, and lined the road -to greet our old friends and companions of out-post -duty. The hussars became so much affected -by our cheering, that tears rolled down many of -their bronzed faces. "Oh!" said they, "we are -always glad to see the old <i>lighty division</i>, who -will ever live in our hearts."</p> - -<p>On the third day we had arrived near San -Muñoz, and encamped on the river Helebra. -Many of the forest trees were covered with beautiful -blossoms, and the plumaged tribe hopped -from branch to bough, while here and there a -solitary skeleton lay bleached, and reminded us -of those starved, drenched, and wounded victims, -the recollection of whose cries for help still rang -in our ears, as we had marched past them on our -retreat from Burgos and Madrid the previous -winter. Now, how changed the scene! the inmost -recesses of this extensive wood resounded<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">246</a></span> -with many voices, and a long line of animated -troops continued to thread its mazes and winding -roads. On this day the household brigade of -cavalry came up; their horses' backs were in a -very bad state, owing to the heat of the weather. -In the evening, while sitting at our tent-door, -we observed one of the Germans making up his -fat horse for the night, and afterwards employing -himself in sharpening his sabre with a stone. -"That man," remarked an officer, "seems to be -preparing for single combat."</p> - -<p>Early on the 26th we halted on the verge of -the wood, within a short distance of Salamanca; -our cavalry and some guns pushed onwards, and -crossed to the right bank of the Tormes by two -fords above the town, where they found three -thousand French infantry preparing to retrograde. -Our cavalry made a demonstration to charge them, -but the enemy presented so firm a front, and -then retired in such good order, that it was -thought advisable not to attempt to break them, -until a few discharges of artillery should have -shaken the resolution of these veterans: which -that course failed to accomplish. They at length -formed a junction with a part of the French -troops retiring from Alba de Tormes.</p> - -<p>Our dragoons were then drawn off, and the -enemy continued to retreat without farther molestation.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">247</a></span> -In the afternoon our division moved forward, -and took up their ground in a wood immediately -overlooking the left bank of the Tonnes, -a league below Salamanca.</p> - -<p>The next morning, as there had not been any -order for the troops to move, I mounted my horse, -and, in company with some other officers, rode -into Salamanca. The inhabitants expressed their -congratulations on seeing us again, although our -reception was not of that warm character shown -towards us in the preceding summer; and, indeed, -it would have been out of all reason to expect to -find countenances decked with joy, when contending -armies had trampled down and destroyed -their corn over a fertile plain of many leagues in -extent.</p> - -<p>On entering the great square, we observed the -principal inhabitants, full-dressed, flocking towards -the cathedral, a very handsome stone structure, -where we alighted, and, following the crowd -through the grand entrance, found a great multitude -waiting the arrival of the Marquis of Wellington, -who soon entered, escorted by a numerous -retinue of Spanish generals and other staff -officers, in a variety of uniforms magnificently -embroidered. I was much struck with the simplicity -of the Marquis of Wellington's attire, -who wore a very light grey pelisse coat, single-breasted,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">248</a></span> -without a sash, and a white neck-handkerchief, -with his sword buckled round his waist, -underneath the coat, the hilt merely protruding, -and a cocked-hat under his arm. He stood with -his face towards the altar during the prayer offered -up for the success of our arms in the approaching -struggle, (for during this time the divisions of our -centre were branching off and marching over dusty -plains towards Miranda de Douro, to support the -extreme left, under General Sir T. Graham, which -had crossed to the right bank of the Douro, -east of Lamego, had passed through the defiles of -Tras os Montes, and was marching on the right -of that river through Leon, towards Carvajales -and Tabara, to outflank the enemy;) the deep-toned -organ played some fine pieces during the -ceremony; and at the conclusion, the ladies, by -way of a benediction, dipped their delicate fingers -into a marble basin at the door, <i>and sprinkled -us with holy water</i>.</p> - -<p>At daylight on the 28th, we forded the Tormes, -and continued a forward movement along a winding -road, through a rich valley compassing the -base of a hill, on the summit of which stood a -number of videttes belonging to the household -brigade; and although the men and horses looked -gigantic, and bore a fine appearance, still the idea -of out-post duty for the heavy cavalry caused<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">249</a></span> -much merriment in the ranks. At the expiration -of a long march, we encamped in the vicinity -of Aldea de Figueras, on the high road to Toro, -where we halted four days; the second division, -under General Hill, besides Portuguese and Spanish -auxiliaries, were encamped half a league to -our right, for the purpose of keeping in check -and watching the movements of the enemy stationed -on the right of the Douro, and also at -Polios and Ruêda, situated about two leagues -from Tor-de-Sillas, on the left bank of the river, -where the French still remained in some force, -hovering on our right flank. Under all these circumstances, -it became necessary to be vigilant, -as the left and centre of the army were now -moving to pass the river Esla, under the immediate -orders of the General-in-chief, who had left -Salamanca to join them, and to superintend this -delicate movement in person, which he had caused -to be executed for the purpose of turning the -enemy's right, and to threaten his northern line -of communications.</p> - -<p>Owing to this manœuvre, the French army -was thrown on two sides of a square, and only -possessed the chance of extending a line on the -Esla, by throwing their left forward against General -Hill at the moment when he was separated -from the bulk of our army; (thereby making<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">250</a></span> -Madrid the base of their operations). However, -<i>El Rey Joseph</i> had not concentrated his army, -and showed no inclination to keep open his communication -with that capital; and therefore he -gave up the line of the Esla and the Douro -without a blow.</p> - -<p>The passage of the Esla having been effected on -the 31st, without opposition, the Marquis of Wellington -moved on Toro, where he arrived on the -2nd of June, and the hussar brigade fell in with a -strong body of the enemy's heavy horse between -that town and Morales, where they overthrew the -French, after a very vigorous charge, and made -upwards of two hundred prisoners. Our division -on this day made a forced march over a bare -country, halted to cook during the heat of the day, -then resumed its movement, and reached the vicinity -of Toro in the evening, where we encamped -among some luxuriant, well-watered vegetable -gardens on the left bank of the Douro, the sight -of which proved very refreshing after a long, -sultry, and weary march; and it was most gratifying -to observe with what zest and relish the officers -and soldiers devoured the raw cabbages, onions, -and melons.</p> - -<p>The next morning our division crossed the fine -stone bridge. The centre arch of it had been -blown up and entirely destroyed. The soldiers,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">251</a></span> -therefore, in the first instance, descended by ladders -placed close together, communicating by -planks thrown across to the steps of the opposite -ladders, by which the men again ascended, thereby -surmounting the obstacle with little difficulty, -and then marching through Toro, which is situated -on high ground on the right bank of the river, -and commands a fine prospect for some leagues -over the surrounding country.</p> - -<p>The artillery and baggage forded one hundred -yards above the bridge, without difficulty; the -water being only knee-deep at this season of the -year. We encamped half a league from the town. -In the afternoon I walked in to see the prisoners -who had been taken by the English hussars on the -previous day, all of whom bore a very martial -appearance, and many of their countenances were -so covered with hair, that it was difficult to distinguish -their features: one man, in particular, -had a long red beard which reached down to his -middle; he wore a brass helmet, surmounted with -tiger's skin, with a bunch of horse hair hanging -down his back from the casque. One hundred of -these French dragoons, who had not been wounded, -were assembled to march to the rear. Their -officer maintained a profound silence, and looked -angry and highly indignant, with a large stick -over his shoulder, stuck through the middle of a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">252</a></span> -four-pound Spanish loaf. The whole of the -captured, raw-boned horses, were huddled together -in a court-yard, and bore evident marks of bad -provender, escort duties, marches, and countermarches; -and nearly the whole of them had the -most horrible sore backs, almost frying in the -sun, while innumerable flies settled on and irritated -the poor animals. A number of English medical -officers were busily employed dressing the wounds -of the French cavalry; some of them were of a -most shocking description, from sabre cuts on their -heads and faces. A Frenchman, of enormous -stature, lay extended with a dreadful thrust from -a pike, which had been inflicted by a cruel -Guerilla, some hours after he had surrendered -himself a prisoner. A medical officer was on his -knees trying to bleed him, and held his wrist, -moving his arm gently, having made an incision -in hopes of causing the blood to flow; but every -effort to save his life was useless; the dying -soldier nodded thanks to the doctor, and soon -after expired.</p> - -<p>On the 4th, the whole army being concentrated<a name="FNanchor_46_46" id="FNanchor_46_46"></a><a href="#Footnote_46_46" class="fnanchor"><sup>46</sup></a>, -it moved in three columns, the centre in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">253</a></span> -the direction of Palencia. The country was beautifully -diversified, studded with castles of Moorish -architecture, realizing the descriptions given in -the chivalric days of Ferdinand and Isabella. The -sun shone brilliantly, the sky was of heavenly -blue, and clouds of dust marked the line of march -of glittering columns. The joyous peasantry -hailed our approach, and came dancing towards -us, singing and beating time on their small tambourines; -and, when we were passing through the -principal street of Palencia, the nuns, from the -upper windows of a convent, showered down rose-leaves -on our dusty heads, and the inhabitants -declared, by way of compliment, that the Oxford -Blues were nearly as fine as the Spanish royal -horse guards. Our division took up their ground -close to the town, and on the exact spot where -the French had bivouacked the same morning.</p> - -<p>Continuing our advance towards Burgos on the -12th, the right of our army made a demonstration -to attack the enemy, who had taken post there, -while our division brought up its left shoulder,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">254</a></span> -and hovered, with the hussar-brigade, on their -right flank; the left of our army halted, until the -effect of this movement was ascertained, by which -the enemy were again thrown on two sides of a -square. The day was remarkably cold and cloudy.</p> - -<p>Towards morning on the 13th, we heard a great -noise, which we considered distant thunder, but it -was soon known that the enemy had blown up -part of the works of the Castle of Burgos, and had -retreated. The left of our army was now pushed -on in echelon, to turn by a flank movement the -line of the Ebro, while our right and centre hung -on the enemy's rear, ready to engage them in support -of this movement. The country here was -extremely wild and mountainous<a name="FNanchor_47_47" id="FNanchor_47_47"></a><a href="#Footnote_47_47" class="fnanchor"><sup>47</sup></a>.</p> - -<p>On the 15th we descended by a narrow pass, -about a league in extent, which had the appearance -of being scarped; the road was extremely rugged, -and, winding suddenly, we found ourselves in the -valley of the Ebro, which extended some distance -to our right. The beauty of the scenery was far -beyond description, and the rocks rose perpendicularly -on every side, without any visible opening -to convey an idea of any outlet. This enchanting<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">255</a></span> -valley is studded with picturesque hamlets, orchards -of cherry trees, and fruitful gardens, producing -every description of vegetation. We crossed -the river by the Puente Arenas, where we saw a -number of sturdy, thick-legged women, loaded -with fresh butter, from the mountains of the Asturias. -I had not tasted that commodity for more -than two years, therefore it will be unnecessary to -describe how readily I made a purchase, and -carried the treasure in front of my saddle, until we -had encamped; but, as ill luck would have it, there -was not any biscuit served out on that day.</p> - -<p>The next morning we ascended by a most romantic -winding road for a league, and obtained a -view of the tents of the fifth division, who had -made a <i>détour</i> to outflank the enemy, and to -secure the passage of these narrow defiles. While -passing a village, I asked several of the inhabitants -to sell me some bread; a shake of the head -was the only answer returned. I at last caught -a glimpse of a priest, and, as I was determined -to have bread to eat with the fresh butter, I made -towards him, saluted him by a most gracious -bend, pulled out a <i>pecéta</i>, and requested he would -procure me a loaf; he very good-naturedly acquiesced, -and soon again made his appearance -with a three-pounder, and also returned half my -money: he seemed pleased, so was I, and, more<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">256</a></span> -courteous salutes having been exchanged between -us, I rejoined the ranks. Travelling onwards, -we perceived a large building on the side of a -hill, with something white waving at each window, -which, on a nearer view, we perceived to -be a convent, and the nuns shaking their white -handkerchiefs to greet our approach. On taking -up our ground for the day, the baggage made its -appearance, and ample justice was done to the -bread and butter by myself and companions.</p> - -<p>On the 18th, while we were advancing left in -front, along a narrow road, shrouded by overhanging -woods and high mountains, a hussar informed -us that the enemy were at hand. On reaching a -more open space, we observed a brigade of the -French drawn up behind a rivulet, and their front -covered by a few houses. Two battalions of the -rifle corps, supported by the 52nd, instantly attacked -them, and, after some smart firing, the -enemy gave ground. During this skirmish our -regiment turned off the road to the left, and -formed line on a hill, as a rallying point, in case -of need; when, to our astonishment, we observed -the head of another column of the French issuing, -by a road parallel to us, out of an opening between -two perpendicular rocks, and in rear of -our second brigade, already engaged. The other -regiments composing our brigade scrambled over<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">257</a></span> -the rocks, to endeavour to attack their left, which -the enemy perceiving, turned off the road, and -made for a hill: the 52nd brought up its left -shoulder, and actually formed line facing to the -rear, at a run, and encountered the enemy on -the crest of the hill, who, the moment they met -that regiment, turned round, and, throwing off -their packs, fled to the mountains, keeping up a -running fight. The second brigade was now engaged -front and rear.</p> - -<p>During this desultory <i>fusillade</i>, the baggage -belonging to the French division debouched from -the already described outlet. The whole of the -enemy's escort huddled together, and made a -most desperate resistance amidst the rocks, while -their affrighted animals ran loose, and were seen -on the highest pinnacles of precipices. Nearly -the whole fell into our hands, besides three hundred -wounded and prisoners. The position of -the division became singular after the fight, with -its centre at the village St. Millan, and keeping a -look-out to the front and rear. The enemy had -also attacked the left of our army, near Osma, -in hopes that, by causing such a delay, it would -enable these two brigades, marching from Frias, -to form a junction with their main body.</p> - -<p>On the 19th we moved forward, and, at about -ten o'clock in the morning, part of the fourth<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">258</a></span> -division became engaged with the light troops -of the enemy. Our division then made a short -<i>détour</i>, and turned the left of the French, who -precipitately retired towards Vittoria. The next -day we halted, and the army took up a line on -the river Bayas, after long and arduous marching. -The Marquis of Wellington approached the -river Zadorra, which covered the enemy's position, -for the purpose of examining the ground they -occupied, and pointing out to different generals -the various debouches, and their necessary line -of attack, in the event of the French continuing -to occupy the same ground on the following -day.</p> - -<p>On the 21st, we stood to our arms, and moved -forward in darkness, some time before daybreak. -A heavy shower of rain fell; but, as morning -dawned, the clouds dispersed, and the sun arose -with fiery splendour. A towering and steep ridge -of mountains rose abruptly from the valley on -our right, which the Spaniards climbed early -in the morning, at first unopposed; the ascent -was so steep, that, while moving up it, they -looked as if they were lying on their faces, or -crawling. They were supported, and soon followed -across the river Zadorra, and through the -town of Puebla de Arlanzon, by part of the -second division, for the purpose of attacking the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">259</a></span> -left of the enemy, who were posted on the heights -above Puebla de Arlanzon and Sabijana de Alava, -where the contest, at the former place, began at -nine o'clock, amongst deep ravines, rocks and -precipices. The second division becoming heavily -engaged with the enemy, under all these disadvantages -it could only maintain the ground already -won, and the firing seemed to die away in -that quarter. Our right centre, composed of the -light and fourth divisions, continued to advance, -as also the great bulk of our cavalry.</p> - -<p>At about ten o'clock, on ascending a rising -ground, we observed the French army drawn out -in order of battle, in two lines, their right centre -resting on a round hill, their left centre occupying -a gentle ascent, and their left hid from view -on the heights of Puebla; the river Zadorra ran -at the foot of this formidable position, and then -took a sudden turn, embracing and running parallel -to their right flank, towards Vittoria.</p> - -<p><i>El Rey Joseph</i>, surrounded by a numerous -staff, was stationary on the hill, overlooking his -own right and centre. The French army was -unmasked, without a bush to prevent the sweeping -of their artillery, the charging of their cavalry, -or the fire of their musketry from acting with full -effect on those who should attempt to pass the -bridges in their front, and which it was absolutely<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">260</a></span> -necessary to carry before we could begin the -action in the centre. When within a short distance -of the river, five of the French light horse -advanced on the main road to look out, and were -overtaken by an equal number of our dragoons, -when they wheeled about and attempted to make -off, without effect; they were assailed on the -near side, when three instantly fell from their -saddles, covered with sabre wounds, and their -affrighted horses galloped at random.</p> - -<p>The light division left the road when within -one mile of the river, and drew up in contiguous -close columns behind some shelving rocks near -Olabarre, with the hussar brigade dismounted on -the left; the fourth division made a corresponding -movement, by branching off to the right, and -took post opposite their intended point of attack; -the greater part of our heavy cavalry and dragoons -remained in reserve, to succour the central -divisions, in case the enemy should advance before -the third and seventh divisions should have taken -up their ground on the enemy's right flank. The -first and fifth divisions, with two brigades of -Portuguese, a Spanish division, and two brigades -of dragoons, were making a <i>détour</i> from Murguia, -to place themselves on the line of the enemy's -retreat, towards St. Sebastian; the sixth division -remained some leagues in the rear of our army to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">261</a></span> -guard the stores at Medina. Gen. Clausel's division -was manœuvring on our right, but not sufficiently -near on this day to give much cause of -apprehension.</p> - -<p>All the movements of our army required the -nicest calculations, both for the attack and defence; -for at this time the four great columns -advancing were separated by difficult rocks and -a rugged country, interspersed with deep gulleys, -narrow roads, and scattered hamlets. The enemy -were again under the painful necessity, for the -third time in one month, of manœuvring on two -sides of a square; and the first cannon fired by -General Graham, at Abechucho and Gamarra -Major,<a name="FNanchor_48_48" id="FNanchor_48_48"></a><a href="#Footnote_48_48" class="fnanchor"><sup>48</sup></a> must have been to Joseph and Marshal -Jourdan, (his Major-General,) like a shock of -electricity: all in an instant was riot and confusion -in Vittoria; the baggage stuck fast, blocking -up all the roads, and even the fields.</p> - -<p>At half-past eleven o'clock the Marquis of -Wellington led the way by a hollow road, followed -by the light division, which he placed unobserved -amongst some trees, exactly opposite -the enemy's right centre, and within two hundred -yards of the bridge of Villoses, which we<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">262</a></span> -understood was to be carried at the point of the -bayonet. I felt anxious to obtain a view, and, -leisurely walking between the trees, I found myself -at the edge of the wood, and within a very -short distance of the enemy's cannon, planted -with lighted matches ready to apply to them. -Had the attack begun here, the French never -could have stood to their guns so near the thicket; -or at least the riflemen would have annihilated -them. The General-in-chief was now most anxiously -looking out for the third and seventh divisions -to make their appearance. We had remained -some time in the wood, when a Spanish -peasant told the Marquis of Wellington that the -enemy had left one of the bridges across the -Zadorra unprotected, and offered his services to -lead us over it. Our right brigade instantly moved -to its left <i>by threes</i>, at a rapid pace, along a -very uneven and circuitous path, (which was concealed -from the observation of the French by -high rocks,) and reached the narrow bridge which -crossed the river to Yruna. The 1st rifles led -the way, and the whole brigade following, passed -at a run, with firelocks and rifles ready cocked, -and ascended a steep road of fifty yards, at the -top of which was an old chapel, which we had -no sooner cleared, than we observed a heavy column -of French on the principal hill, and commanding<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">263</a></span> -a bird's-eye view of us. However, fortunately, -a convex bank formed a sort of <i>tête de -pont</i>, behind which the regiments formed at full -speed, without any word of command. Two -round shots came amongst us; the second severed -the head from the body of our bold guide, the -Spanish peasant. The soldiers were so well concealed, -that the enemy ceased firing. Our post -was most extraordinary, as we were at the elbow -of the French position, and isolated from the rest -of the army, within one hundred yards of the -enemy's advance, and absolutely occupying part -of their position on the left of the river, without -any attempt being made by them to dislodge us; -scarcely the sound of a shot, from any direction, -struck on the ear, and we were in momentary -expectation of being immolated; and, as I looked -over the bank, I could see <i>El Rey Joseph</i>, surrounded -by at least five thousand men, within -eight hundred yards of us. The reason he did -not attack is inexplicable, and, I think, cannot -be accounted for by the most ingenious narrator.</p> - -<p>Gen. Sir James Kempt expressed much wonder -at our critical position, and our not being molested, -and sent his aide-de-camp at speed across the -river for the 15th Hussars, who came forward -singly, and at a gallop, up the steep path, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">264</a></span> -dismounted in rear of our centre. The French -dragoons coolly, and at a very slow pace, came -within fifty yards to examine, if possible, the -strength of our force, when a few shots from the -rifles induced them to decamp. I observed three -bridges, within a quarter of a mile of each other, -at the elbow of the enemy's position. We had -crossed the centre one, while the other two, right -and left, where still occupied by the French artillery; -at the latter, the enemy had thrown up an -earth entrenchment.</p> - -<p>We continued in this awkward state of suspense -for half an hour, when we observed the centre of -the enemy drawing off by degrees towards Vittoria, -and also the head of the third division rapidly debouching -from some rocks on our left near the -hamlet of Mendoza, when the battery at Tres -Puentes opened upon them, which was answered -by two guns from the horse artillery on the right of -the river. Some companies of the rifle corps sprang -from the ground, where they lay concealed, and -darted forward, opening a galling fire on the left -flank of the enemy's gunners, at great risk to -themselves of being driven into the water, as -the river ran on their immediate left, while the -French cavalry hovered on their right; however, -so well did this gallant band apply their loose<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">265</a></span> -balls, that the enemy limbered up their guns, -and hastily retired; and the third division, at a -run, crossed the bridge of Tres Puentes, cheering, -but unopposed.<a name="FNanchor_49_49" id="FNanchor_49_49"></a><a href="#Footnote_49_49" class="fnanchor"><sup>49</sup></a></p> - -<p>The enemy withdrew the artillery from the -bridges in their centre at two o'clock, <span class="smcap">p. m.</span>, and -were forming across the high road to Vittoria. -The third division had no sooner closed up in contiguous -columns, than General Picton led them -forward in very handsome style, in column, by -a flank movement, so as to place them exactly -opposite the French centre. The fourth division -directly after crossed the river by the bridge of -Nanclara, and were hurrying forward to support -the right flank of the third division; the seventh -division also crossed the bridge of Tres Puentes,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">266</a></span> -supported by the second brigade of the light -division, and faced the small village of Marganta. -Our heavy horse and dragoons had deployed -into line, on the other side of the river, -so as to communicate with the rear of the second -division, (in the event of their being driven back -from the mountains,) or to support the centre -of the army, in case of any disaster. They made -a brilliant display of golden helmets and sparkling -swords, glittering in the rays of the sun.</p> - -<p>Three divisions being in motion, the centre -and left supported by the light division and the -hussar brigade, the battle began by a terrible -discharge on the third division, while they were -deploying into line. We closed up to them, behind -a bank; when, with loud huzzas, they rushed -from behind it, into the village of Ariyez, with -fixed bayonets, amidst flashing small arms and -rolling artillery, and, after a bloody struggle, -carried it. The enemy's artillery was within two -hundred yards of us, ploughing up the ground in -our rear: fortunately, the bank nearly covered -us, during the time it was necessary to remain -inactive, to support the front attack, if needful. -A Portuguese regiment, attached to our brigade, -had been detached for a short time, and rejoined -in close column; but, just before they reached -the cover, some round shot tore open their centre,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">267</a></span> -and knocked over many men; and such was the -alarm of a Portuguese officer, at the whizzing of -balls and bursting of field shells, that he fell into -an officer's arms, weeping bitterly. For ten minutes -at this point, what with dust and smoke, -it was impossible to distinguish any objects in -front, save the shadows of the French artillerymen -serving the guns, and the shouts of troops -while forcing their way into the village. The -smoke had no sooner cleared away, than we came -on the bodies of many dead and gasping soldiers, -stretched in the dust. The sharp fire of musketry -and artillery in the centre, announced it to be the -point of contest. The "advance" of the second -division had been severely handled on the mountains -to our right, but they were now getting on -as speedily as the nature of the ground would -admit, it being composed of deep ravines, and -such natural obstacles, as almost to delay their -progress unopposed.</p> - -<p>The first and fifth divisions were engaged at -Gamarra Major and Abechucho, in front of the -bridges over the Zadorra. These villages were -carried after a smart action, by which a position -was gained threatening the enemy's line of retreat -by the high road to France, running N.E. -some distance close on the left of the river. The -bridge was attempted, but was found to be impracticable,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">268</a></span> -until our centre had forced the enemy -to give up Vittoria. The different divisions in -the centre were exposed to a desultory fire, while -passing the villages of Gomecha and Luazu de -Alava, and over broken ground, forming lines, -columns, or threading the windings of difficult -paths, according to the nature of the country, or -the opposition of the enemy. The fourth division -pushed back the left centre of the French, and -were fighting successfully, and performing prodigies -of valour, among crags and broken ground. -The seventh division now came in contact with -the enemy's right centre, which resisted so desperately, -and galled them from a wood and the -windows of houses with such showers of bullets, -that victory for a short time was doubtful; however, -the second brigade of the light division -coming up fresh and with closed ranks, assisted -by the seventh division, broke through all opposition -at a run, and routed the enemy at the point -of the bayonet. The four divisions of the centre -continued to gain ground, shooting forward alternately, -leaving the killed and wounded scattered -over a great extent of country. At six o'clock -in the evening, by a sort of running fight, with -hard contests at certain points, the centre of the -army had gained five miles in this amphitheatre; -for General Hill's corps was on the mountains,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">269</a></span> -and General Graham was still on the right of the -Zadorra.</p> - -<p>The Marquis of Wellington was in the middle -of the battle, vigorously driving the enemy, to -finish that which the wings had so well begun. -First, General Hill's movement in the morning had -caused the enemy to weaken his left centre; then -General Graham's attack induced him to give up -the front line of the Zadorra, without a shot -(hardly) being fired.</p> - -<p>At half-past six we were within one mile of the -city of Vittoria, the capital of Alava, situated -in a fruitful valley; but the French army now -drew up, and showed such an imposing array -in front of the town, that our left centre facing -<i>Ali</i> was completely kept at bay, owing to the -blazing of one hundred pieces of cannon vomiting -forth death and destruction to all who advanced -against them. This roaring of artillery continued -for more than an hour on both sides, with unabated -vigour: the smoke rolled up in such -clouds, that we could no longer distinguish the -white town of Vittoria; the liquid fire marked the -activity of the French gunners. During this -momentous struggle, the left centre of the French -covered a bare hill, and continued for a considerable -time immoveable; while, pouring their musketry -into the now-thinned ranks of the third -division, it was doubtful whether the latter would<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">270</a></span> -be able to keep their ground, under such a deadly -fire from very superior numbers: however, they -maintained this dangerous post with heroic firmness, -having led the van throughout the thick of -the battle.</p> - -<p>At this period of the action, it was absolutely -necessary to strain every nerve to win it -before nightfall. The fourth division, on our -right, shot forward against a sugar-loaf hill, -and broke a French division, who retired up it -in a confused mass, firing over each other's heads, -without danger to themselves, owing to the -steepness of its ascent. I was laughing at this -novel method of throwing bullets, when one -struck me on the sash, and fell at my feet, thereby -cooling my ardour for a short time: however, -when a little recovered from the pain, I picked -it up, and put the precious bit of lead into my -pocket.</p> - -<p>The scene that now presented itself was -magnificently grand: the valley resounded with -confused sounds like those of a volcanic eruption, -and was crowded with red bodies of infantry and -the smoking artillery, while the cavalry eagerly -looked for an opening to gallop into the town. -On one side of the field rose majestically the -spiral and purple-capped mountains, rearing their -pinnacles on high; on the other ran the glassy -waters of the Zadorra: and the departing sun<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">271</a></span> -threw his last beams to light up the efforts of those -struggling in dangerous strife for the deliverance -of Spain. The enemy sacrificed all their cannon, -with the exception of eight pieces, while withdrawing -the right of their army behind the left -wing, under cover of this tremendous cannonade, -which was the only chance yet left them to quit -the field in a compact body. This movement -being executed in strange confusion in and about -Vittoria, their left wing retired by echelon of -divisions and brigades from the right, while delivering -their fire; and finally, their last division -quitted the field with nearly empty cartridge-boxes, -and taking the road towards Pampeluna. -The greater portion of our army then brought up -its left shoulder, or rather wheeled the quarter -circle to its right; which movement brought us -on the road to Pampeluna. The French managed -to drag the eight pieces of artillery across the -fields for nearly a league; but, coming to marshy -ground, they stuck fast, and three of them rolled -into a ditch, with mules struggling to disentangle -themselves from their harness. Two pieces -the enemy carried clear out of the action, leaving -their numerous cannon behind them, owing to -the roads being so blocked up with waggons.</p> - -<p>The dark shades of evening had already veiled -the distant objects from our view, and nothing of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">272</a></span> -the battle remained, save the lightning flashes of the -enemy's small arms on our cavalry, who continued -to hover and threaten their rear guard. The road -to Pampeluna was choked up with many carriages, -filled with imploring ladies, waggons loaded with -specie,<a name="FNanchor_50_50" id="FNanchor_50_50"></a><a href="#Footnote_50_50" class="fnanchor"><sup>50</sup></a> powder and ball, and wounded soldiers, -intermixed with droves of oxen, sheep, goats, -mules, asses, <i>filles de chambre</i>, and officers. In -fact, such a jumble surely never was witnessed -before; it seemed as if all the domestic animals -in the world had been brought to this spot, with -all the utensils of husbandry, and all the finery of -palaces, mixed up in one heterogeneous mass.</p> - -<p>Our brigade marched past this strange scene (I -may well assert) of domestic strife, in close column, -nor did I see a soldier attempt to quit the ranks, -or show the most distant wish to do so; our second -brigade had not yet joined us, when we -bivouacked a league from Vittoria, on the road -towards Pampeluna. The half-famished soldiers -had no sooner disencumbered themselves of their -knapsacks, than they went to forage; for even -here the sheep and goats were running about in -all directions, and large bags of flour lay by the -side of the road: in fact, for miles round the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">273</a></span> -town, the great wreck of military stores was -scattered in every direction.</p> - -<p>Night put an end to the contest: the growling -of artillery ceased, the enemy were flying in disorder, -the British army bivouacked round Vittoria, -large fires were kindled and blazed up, -and illumined the country, over which were -strewed the dead and suffering officers and soldiers: -strange sounds continued throughout the -night, and passing lights might be seen on the -highest mountains and distant valleys.</p> - - - -<div class="footnote"> -<p><a name="Footnote_44_44" id="Footnote_44_44"></a><a href="#FNanchor_44_44">44</a> The iron kettles were very heavy, and were carried on the -backs of mules, one of which was attached to each company; -but, when near the enemy, and the baggage had been sent to the -rear, these unwieldy and capacious kettles were not at all times -to be laid hold of. Besides, it occupied the soldiers a considerable -time to cook their rations, particularly in the extensive -plains, where only stubble could be procured; and also during -the rainy season, when the forest trees were damp. I have -often observed these ponderous kettles turned bottom upwards, -(at a time when there happened to be a scarcity of provisions,) -and encircled by ten or twelve weather-beaten soldiers, who, -with empty stomachs, stepped forward, one at a time, and each -of them in turn rubbing his blacking-brush on the sooty part of -the kettle, blacked his dusty shoes, cap-peak, canteen strap, -and knapsack.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_45_45" id="Footnote_45_45"></a><a href="#FNanchor_45_45">45</a> A muleteer, so called from having the charge of five mules, -for the use of which he received five dollars daily, and one for -himself. The biscuit, rum, and reserve ball-cartridge, were -carried by the mules;—under charge of the above men the lean -Barbary bulls and bullocks followed the different divisions on -their line of march—the whole originally provided by, and under -the superintendence of commissaries.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_46_46" id="Footnote_46_46"></a><a href="#FNanchor_46_46">46</a> The British army was composed of eight divisions of infantry, -as usual. The first, of two brigades of Guards, with two -of the King's German Legion; the second, three brigades of -British, and three of Portuguese; the third, two of British, and -one of Portuguese; the fourth, fifth, sixth, and seventh, the -same; the light division of two brigades. Total, seventeen -brigades of British infantry, two of Germans, ten of Portuguese; -besides other detachments. The cavalry consisted of four -brigades of Heavy, and four of Light Dragoons, and two of -Portuguese.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_47_47" id="Footnote_47_47"></a><a href="#FNanchor_47_47">47</a> The enemy left in the Castle of Pancorbo, (which commands -the narrow and tremendous pass through which the high -road runs towards Miranda,) a small garrison, who soon afterwards -surrendered themselves prisoners to the Spaniards.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_48_48" id="Footnote_48_48"></a><a href="#FNanchor_48_48">48</a> We could not see the extreme right of the enemy, stationed -near Arunnez, in front of Abechucho and Gamarra Major.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_49_49" id="Footnote_49_49"></a><a href="#FNanchor_49_49">49</a> The French did not defend any of the seven bridges across -the Zadorra, except the two lying north and N.E. near Vittoria, -although it was their original intention to do so. The able -manœuvres of the General-in-chief threw the French generals -into doubt: they knew not whether to defend their left, their -right, or their centre; so they gave up one after the other, in conformity -with the threatened attacks of the Marquis of Wellington—which -was exactly what he wished, and most accommodating -of his opponents, who thus left this intended great battle -without beginning or without end; for the French infantry were -not half beaten, before disjointed orders and crowds of baggage -blocking up the different roads, completed their confusion past -all remedy.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_50_50" id="Footnote_50_50"></a><a href="#FNanchor_50_50">50</a> Some excesses were committed, although the greater part -of the booty, as usual, was bagged by the followers of the army.</p> -</div> - - - - -<hr /> - -<div class="chapter"> - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">274</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER XIII.</h2> -</div> - -<blockquote> -<p class="hang">Pursuit of the enemy after the battle of Vittoria—Curious spectacle -and adventure in a French bivouac—Advance towards -Pampeluna, and repulse of the French rear-guard—Retreat -of the main body of the enemy into France—Reflections on -the policy of King Joseph—Change of the British route, and -encampment at Sanguessa—A casual dance—Return to Pampeluna—Expulsion -of the French from the valley of Bastan—The -Basque peasantry—Town of Bera—Position for covering -Pampeluna and St. Sebastian—Preparations for the attack of -the latter place—The command of the French assumed by the -Duke of Dalmatia—A family scene—Position of the French -army.</p> -</blockquote> - - -<p>On the morning of the 22d the atmosphere was -overcast, and, being without either cloaks or blankets -to cover us, our uniforms were very damp, -owing to the heavy dew which had fallen during -the night; notwithstanding this, we arose from the -ground exceedingly refreshed, and gazed around, -in mute amazement, at the prodigious wreck of -plundered Spain; for, beneath the French caissons, -tumbrils, and brass cannon, lay scattered -<i>los doblones de oro, of the same virgin gold</i> -which had been extracted in former times from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">275</a></span> -the peaceful Incas of the new world, by those -vindictive Spanish adventurers, whose avaricious -veins boiled at that epoch with the hot blood of -the Moors.</p> - -<p>At nine o'clock the rolling of the tenor and -bass drums, and the clank of cymbals, beating -the marching time, announced that the leading -regiments of the division were in motion for the -purpose of following the enemy. During the -rest of the day we marched through a valley, enclosed -by highlands, but did not overtake the -enemy; the corn was trampled down in many -places, which showed they had moved in three -columns, whenever the ground would admit of it. -Soon after dark, the division bivouacked in a -wood, a drizzling rain began to fall, and we laid -down under a tree to enjoy a nap, until the arrival -of our sumpter mules, heavily laden with -flour and live stock, which we had industriously -scraped together from the refuse of Vittoria's -field. At midnight we were awakened, with -keen appetites, by the well-known neighing of -the horses, and braying of donkeys; but none of -the baggage animals came our way, and during -our anxious and broken slumbers the night -passed away, and the morning was ushered in by -a sweeping rain, which thoroughly saturated the -troops before they began their march. As I<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">276</a></span> -chanced to be for the duty of bringing up any -stragglers who might happen to lag behind, and -my hungry messmate being also for the baggage -guard (of those who had come up), we journeyed -together along the sloppy road, when the conversation -naturally turned on the splendid victory -gained over the French legions two days before, -and we remarked how gladdened the people of -England would be on the receipt of such a piece -of glorious intelligence, while they would little -imagine that the greater portion of the victors -would willingly lay down half their laurels for a -good breakfast.</p> - -<p>At the close of the evening we came to the remains -of a French bivouac, consisting of doors -and window shutters torn from a neighbouring -village by the enemy, and propped up to screen -them from the inclemency of the weather. The -sole person to be seen was a draggled-tailed old -woman, with a ragged petticoat, who, without -noticing us, or once raising her eyes, continued -to pursue her interesting employment of stirring -up with a stick the mud (which was interspersed -with fragments of books and French novels,) or -handling the broken fragments of earthenware -pots. Our curiosity was so much excited, that -we reined in our steeds to watch the progress of -the wrinkled and copper-coloured old dame, who,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">277</a></span> -stretching out her bronzed and shrivelled arm, -at last laid hold of a whole utensil, and as she -hastily splashed off, I caught a glimpse of a -chicken, resting on one leg, behind a shutter, -which somehow or other had escaped the ramrod -of the enemy, and the hawk-eyed soldiers of -the pursuing column. Unsheathing my sabre, -I jumped to the ground, and sprang forward -either to grasp or maim the destined prize; however, -the ground was in such a slimy state, that -my speed availed not; on the contrary it hastened -my fall. My companion, disdaining to -take warning at my mishap, must needs himself -begin a hot pursuit; however, the practical experience -convinced him of the slippery obstacles; -he soon lay sprawling on his face, plastered with -mire: suffice it, the bird escaped, and we resumed -our wet saddles, in a condition and appearance -nowise enviable.—Soon after dark we came to a -river, but as the enemy had not sufficient time to -blow up the bridge, they had set fire to many of -the houses in the main street of the town, (which -were still in flames,) in hopes of blocking up the -way with the burning rafters, which they had -hurled from the roofs of the houses, in expectation -of preventing our artillery from passing through, -and thus harassing our retreat. The rain still -falling in torrents, by degrees extinguished the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">278</a></span> -red embers of the smoking ruins, and prevented -the place from being entirely consumed to ashes. -The soldiers of the division crowded the houses, -and huddled under cover wherever they could find -shelter. We were obliged to content ourselves by -squeezing into a small hovel, where the smoke -found egress through the broken roof; the floor -was composed of slabs of rocks, in some places -rearing their primitive heads amid flints and -loose stones. During the night a ration of meat -and six ounces of mouldy biscuit were served out, -which was greedily devoured by the victorious -troops. It was in vain that we scraped into a -heap the stones of this macadamized lodge, for the -purpose of lying down; for bumps and holes only -increased our difficulties, and we were forced to -ascend a broken ladder into a wretched loft, -swarming with vermin, to prick for a soft plank, -whereon to stretch our chilly limbs.</p> - -<p>At dawn, on the 24th, we were again on the -road; the weather cleared up, and the cheerful -rays of the sun sparkled in the crystal drops, -which fell on our heads as we glided beneath -the wet foliage. Having advanced a few miles, -we found the enemy's rear-guard posted at a -bare and steep pass, which covered the highroad, -two leagues from Pampeluna. The column -having closed up, two battalions of the rifle corps<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">279</a></span> -(supported by the horse artillery<a name="FNanchor_51_51" id="FNanchor_51_51"></a><a href="#Footnote_51_51" class="fnanchor"><sup>51</sup></a>) pushed forward, -and, after a sharp skirmish, they succeeded -in pushing back the French rear-guard; the guns -then galloped up the road, and plied the round -shot with such effect, that they succeeded in dismounting -one of the only two cannon which the -enemy had extricated from Vittoria's entangled -field. They had rolled the gun over a steep bank -on the right of the paved causeway, on which -were regular league stones, and the first I had -noticed in Spain. One round shot had struck -down seven of the enemy on the left of the road; -some of them were dead; others still alive, with -either legs or arms knocked off, or otherwise -horribly mutilated, and were crying out in extreme -anguish, and imploring the soldiers to shoot them, -to put an end to their dreadful sufferings. A -German hussar, in our service, assured them that -they would be kindly treated by our medical -officers. "No! no!" they vociferated, "we cannot -bear to live. Countryman, we are Germans, -pray kill us, and shorten our miseries."</p> - -<p>Continuing onwards, we soon after drew up on -the slope of a hill, within sight of Pampeluna, -the capital of Navarre; it is well fortified, with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">280</a></span> -a strong citadel, and situated near the banks of -the river Arga, in a fertile plain abounding with -wheat, the ears of which we rubbed between our -hands to satisfy the cravings of hunger. Just -before our arrival, the enemy's scattered army had -clustered beneath the ramparts of the fortress, -where they were in hopes of entering to obtain -rest and provisions; but the place was so scantily -supplied, that the gates were ordered to be barred -against all intruders. From this place an excellent -road branches off in a north-westerly direction -to Tolosa; but as General Graham, with his -corps, was marching direct on that town, by the -great road to France, it was of no avail to the -main body of the enemy, who were obliged to -continue their retreat into France, by Roncesvalles -and other roads, merely leaving a rear-guard -in the valley of Bastan.</p> - -<p>The following morning we filed over a rugged -and flinty mountain, south-west of Pampeluna, -from the summit of which we almost commanded -a bird's-eye view into the very heart of the town, -garrisoned by four thousand of the enemy. This -place, well provisioned, should have been fixed -on for the grand base of Joseph's defensive and -offensive movements; for, had he made it the -pivot of his operations, and opened his line on -Aragon, (and the strong holds in Catalonia, held<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">281</a></span> -by the Duke of Albufera), his flanks would have -been secured by the Ebro and the Pyrenees, and -would have thrown our army on two sides of a -square, and entangled it between two strong fortresses, -and the labyrinths of the Pyrenees. Most -probably such a movement would have kept the -war from the immediate frontier of France, whence -fresh troops, under favourable circumstances, -could debouch and attack our left face. From -political reasons, the time had not arrived for the -decided invasion of that country; besides, if it -had, such an invasion could not have been executed, -so long as the enemy hovered in force on -our right flank.</p> - -<p>Continuing our route, we crossed the river -Arga, and entered the town of Villalba: our -baggage at last came up, and the Casa in which -we were quartered was enclosed by a good garden, -well stocked with vegetables, which was considered -a piece of good fortune in those times. -This day, the 25th, General Graham overtook -General Foy, retiring from the vicinity of Bilboa, -who, on hearing of the unhappy extent of the -French disasters at Vittoria, made an effort to -block up the passage through Tolosa, but the -victorious English broke through all obstacles, -and continued to advance. In a few days the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">282</a></span> -small garrison of Los Passages surrendered themselves -prisoners. Thus it was that the left wing -of the army had hardly halted since issuing from -the <i>bowels of Portugal</i>, until the precipitous -bank of the river Bidassoa (which divided France -and Spain), put a stop for a time to its memorable -march and victorious career.</p> - -<p>On the 26th we had an idea that we should -halt, but during the day we were again under -arms, (marching by an excellent road running -S.S.E., leading direct on Tafalla,) accompanied -by the third and fourth divisions, with a proportion -of cavalry and artillery, to endeavour to -cut off General Clausel's corps, which had approached -Vittoria the day after the battle; but he -also, being made acquainted with the total route -of <i>El Rey Joseph</i>, immediately countermarched -on Logroño, and thence to Tudella.<a name="FNanchor_52_52" id="FNanchor_52_52"></a><a href="#Footnote_52_52" class="fnanchor"><sup>52</sup></a> During the -movements of the right and left wings of the -British army, General Hill, with the centre, -showed front, and <i>masked</i> Pampeluna.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">283</a></span></p> - -<p>The weather now cleared up, but continued -variable during the whole summer; the seasons -here being totally different from the dry and -scorching heats in the more southern provinces, -where the sun-burnt mountains and vast -plains, are covered, at this time of the year, with -a parched vegetation, or the remains of many -cindered forests.</p> - -<p>Continuing our movement, we became once -again extricated from the mountainous regions, -which had every where enclosed us for more than -a fortnight. The country was now open, and -highly cultivated, with groups of bold peasantry -lining each side of the way, and greeting us by -crying <i>Vivan los Coluros, y viva el Réy Fernándo -séptimo</i>; and, while moving in the direction of -Tudella, our enthusiastic hopes were raised to -the highest pitch, at the probability of reaching -the venerable and renowned city of Saragossa; -but our line was all at once changed, and by a -forced march we entered the province of Aragon, -passing through a barbarous-looking country, -barely peopled, (the forlorn <i>pueblos</i> lying wide -asunder, the poor dwellings being mostly constructed -of dried mud, and plastered over with -the same substance;) and at the expiration of five -days we reached Sanguessa, and encamped.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">284</a></span></p> - -<p>Here we halted one day,<a name="FNanchor_53_53" id="FNanchor_53_53"></a><a href="#Footnote_53_53" class="fnanchor"><sup>53</sup></a> and, while promenading -the town in the evening, the soft notes -of music floated in the air, and on a nearer approach -to the place whence the sounds issued, we -were agreeably saluted by the scraping and cheerful -notes of violins. A crowd of Spaniards had -assembled round the door of the <i>Casa</i>, and on -being questioned by another officer and myself -whether the ball was public, "<i>Oh si señores</i>," -answered they, "<i>es muy público</i>:" so, bustling up -the stone steps, and feeling our way along a dark -passage, we found ourselves, on opening a massive -door, amongst many <i>señoritas</i>, with a scarcity -of <i>caballeros</i>. A staff-officer, who was the promoter -of the dance, expressed his gladness at so -opportune an arrival. Although a friend, we -apologised to him for the apparent intrusion; -but he was a man of no ceremony, and declared -it to be a lucky mistake; which turned out to be -the case, for we beat good waltz time during the -whole night, to the great satisfaction of the <i>señoritas</i>.</p> - - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">285</a></span></p> - -<p>On reaching the camp the following morning, -the tents were already struck, and the -troops moving off on their return to Pampeluna. -What with the overpowering rays of the sun, the -rising clouds of dust, and our overnight's exertion, -we were so overcome, that had it not been for -the kindly arms of the soldiers, we should have -dropped from off our horses, while fast asleep, -dreaming of black-eyed <i>señoras, waltzing, and -precipices</i>!</p> - -<p>In two days we reached Pampeluna by a more -direct road, but the men began to flag, owing to -irregular and poor feeding; besides which, we had -been marching for thirty-two days, with only two -regular halts, since quitting our camp between -Toro and Salamanca; therefore, those plagued and -suffering from sore feet were under the painful -necessity (unless totally unable to proceed), of -going on until they got well again. I have often -seen the blood soaking through the gaiters, and -over the heels of the soldiers' hard shoes, whitened -with the dust.</p> - -<p>The general-in-chief having cleared his right -flank, and again condensed his right and centre -round Pampeluna, debouched thence on the 4th -July, for the purpose of taking possession of -the passes of the western Pyrenees, and pushing -the enemy's vanguard out of the valley of Bastan<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">286</a></span> -into France; which was executed by part of the -second division, on the 7th. Our division, forming -the left centre of the army, flanked this movement.</p> - -<p>Our route at first lay through verdant and -luxuriant valleys, abounding with apple orchards, -groves of chesnut trees, and small fields of Indian -corn; from thence we ascended by broken roads, -over rugged mountains, which were cracked in -many places into vast chasms, overhung with oak -trees of enormous magnitude, whose ponderous -and wide spreading branches cast their dark shadows -over the dried water-courses and natural -grottos, formed by the intricate mazes of the -underwood, entwining around the peaked and -overhanging rocks, which in many places were -garnished with wild strawberries.</p> - -<p>The third day after leaving Pampeluna, we descended -from the mountains into the compact -little town of St. Estevan, situated on the rocky -and woody bank of the clear stream of the Bidassoa, -over which a good stone bridge communicates -with the opposite side of the river: here we halted, -with full leisure to explore the lovely scenery, -which on every side encircled this secluded valley.</p> - -<p>Our curiosity was much excited by the peculiar -method of washing in this part of the country, the -women squatting, or rather sitting on their bare<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">287</a></span> -heels, with their lower garments tightly pulled -about them, whilst others stood in the river -rinsing the linen, with their only petticoat tied in -a knot very high up betwixt their legs, displaying -the most perfect symmetry; and it was morally -impossible to refrain from admiring the natural -and graceful forms of these nymphs.</p> - -<p>The dress of the Basque peasantry is totally -different from that of other provinces, and many -of the females possess very fair complexions and -are extremely beautiful, being a happy mixture of -<i>las brunas y las blondas</i>; their hair is combed -back without any curls, and plaited into a long -tail, which hangs down below the hips; their -jackets are of blue or brown cloth, and pinned so -exceedingly tight across the breast, that the bosom -seldom swells to any size; the woollen and only -petticoat worn by them is of a light or mixed colour, -reaching to the middle of the calf of the leg; and, -with the exception of the bosom being so compressed, -they are divinely formed. They are also remarkably -nimble of foot, and always carry their little -merchandize on the top of the head; they seldom -wear shoes or stockings, except on Sundays and -saints' days. The men go bare-necked, and wear -a blue cap, or bonnet, (precisely similar to those -worn in the highlands of Scotland,) with bushy hair -hanging in ringlets on their shoulders. In hot<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">288</a></span> -weather they usually carry the short blue, or brown -jacket, slung over the left shoulder, and with long -and rapid strides, or at times, breaking into a -short run, they traverse the steep acclivities with -their shoes and stockings frequently slung on a -long pole, which they either carry sloped over the -shoulder, or grasped in the middle like a javelin, -and use it for the purpose of assisting them in scaling -or descending the crags, or frightful precipices. -Their waistcoats are double-breasted, without a -collar; the breeches are of brown cloth, or blue -velveteen, fitting tight over the hips, (without -braces), and reaching to the cap of the knee, where -they are usually unbuttoned, to give full play to -the limbs; a red sash is twisted round the loins. -They are a gaunt, sinewy, and remarkably active -race of men, of sallow complexions; their limbs -are admirably proportioned, and they are as upright -as a dart.</p> - -<p>After a rest of two days, we marched towards -Bera by a narrow road, running parallel on the -right bank of the river Bidassoa, the greater part -of the way being blocked up with large stones, or -fragments of rock, which had tumbled from the -overhanging cliffs, that were rent in many places -into terrific chasms, partly choked with huge trunks -or roots of trees, through which overwhelming torrents -gushed from the mountains during the heavy<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">289</a></span> -rains and formed vast cataracts, often swelling -the river into a foaming and angry torrent. Its -rocky bed is fordable at this time of the year, and -varies from thirty, to more than a hundred yards -in breadth. Owing to the badness of the road, a -number of infantry soldiers were employed in -clearing away obstacles, or lifting the wheels of -the cannon, with handspikes, over the loose fragments -or projecting slabs of rock, which, at every -few paces for three leagues impeded their progress.</p> - -<p>During the march we passed near the bridges of -Sunbilla, Yansi, and Lazaca, which cross to the left -bank of the river, where some Spanish sentinels -were posted on the cliffs, who called out to us, -"<i>miren ustedes, miren los Franceses</i>," and on -casting our eyes upwards, we observed three of the -enemy's <i>chasseurs à cheval</i>, looking down on us as -if from the clouds. Part of the division had been -already detached, for the purpose of keeping a look -out up the narrow road to the right leading to the -heights of Echalar. Just before we reached the -mouth of this contracted defile, a buzz from the head -of the column proclaimed the enemy's infantry to -be at hand, and the musketry had no sooner commenced, -than an officer, who had been amusing -himself by the perusal of a volume of <i>Gil Blas</i>, -hastily placed it under the breast of his grey -pelisse: almost at the same instant a musket ball<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">290</a></span> -buried itself in the middle of the book, and displaced -him from his horse, without inflicting any -further injury; it is a curious fact, that the exact -pattern of the silk braiding of the pelisse<a name="FNanchor_54_54" id="FNanchor_54_54"></a><a href="#Footnote_54_54" class="fnanchor"><sup>54</sup></a> was -indented in the leaden bullet.</p> - -<p>Our front being speedily cleared of the enemy's -skirmishers, the firing ceased, and we entered a -pleasant valley, within half a mile of Bera, which -on this road is the frontier town of Spain, and is -situated at an elbow, on the right bank of the -Bidassoa: it has a good church with a lofty steeple, -and consists of one long straggling street, a -quarter of a mile in length, and immediately at the -foot of the mountain de Comissari, over which a -steep road, three yards broad, crosses the summit, -which is called the <i>puérta de Bera</i>, and leads -N.N.E. to St. Jean de Luz, in France; two other -roads, if they may be so designated, branch off -right and left from Bera, the first running easterly -along the valley, (parallel with a small rivulet -which empties itself into the Bidassoa), and passes -between the great rock of La Rhune and the opposite -mountain of St. Bernard, to St. Barbe and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">291</a></span> -Sarré, into France; at this point the rugged defile -is very narrow, and almost causes a complete -<i>break or separation</i> in the western Pyrenees: the -other road from Bera runs across the Bidassoa, -over a narrow stone bridge, four hundred yards -from the town, to Salines, thence branching off -through gloomy forests and over steep mountains -to Oyarzun, Passages, and Saint Sebastian.</p> - -<p>From Salines there is also a narrow rugged -pathway, which traverses N.N.W. by the winding -current, on the left bank of the Bidassoa; it is -intersected with loose stones, and in many places -ascends the steep and difficult acclivities over the -naked rock, and finally enters the great road -beyond Irun, which leads across the Bidassoa -(where the enemy had broken down the bridge) -into France, thence passing over the river Nivelle -to St. Jean de Luz, and on to Bayonne, a distance -of about twenty-four miles from Irun, which is the -frontier town of Spain by that route.</p> - -<p>The right of the enemy immediately opposed to -us rested on a nearly perpendicular rock, at an -elbow of the Bidassoa, and overlooking the small -market place of Bera, so much so, that, if inclined, -they might have smashed the roofs of the houses, -at the west end of the town, by rolling down upon -them huge fragments of rock. This post was decorated -with a variety of fancy flags, or strips of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">292</a></span> -cloth, of various colours, tied at the top of long -poles while groups of French tirailleurs, who encircled -them, sounded their small shrill trumpets, -<i>and jocosely invited us to the attack</i>.</p> - -<p>Their centre or reserve, composed of black -columns, crowned the heights on each side of the -<i>Puerta de Bera</i>, and also the wooded heights extending -to the base of the rock of La Rhune, on -which their left was stationed in an old ruin.</p> - -<p>The ground having been fully examined, and the -picquets properly placed, we re-entered the mouth -of the pass, and, having cut down two or three -small fields of Indian corn, and stored it up as -provender for the animals, we encamped on the -stubble close to the river. The day was fine, but -during the night the rain descended in torrents, -and continued to fall so heavily for two days, as to -swamp the ground on which our tents were -pitched, and it was with the utmost exertion that -we could keep them upright, owing to the frequent -gusts of wind tearing the pegs out of the liquid -mud. In these damp and chilly regions the tents -proved of incalculable service to the army. The -weather again clearing, our first brigade ascended -the bare heights of Santa Barbara, the second -brigade occupied a rising ground to protect the -entrance of the defile leading to St. Estevan, and -the picquets were pushed into the town of Bera,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">293</a></span> -(within half a stone's throw and beneath those of -the enemy), and into the farm houses in the valley, -enclosed by orchards.<a name="FNanchor_55_55" id="FNanchor_55_55"></a><a href="#Footnote_55_55" class="fnanchor"><sup>55</sup></a></p> - -<p>The stupendous and lofty chain of the western -Pyrenees being now taking up for the purpose of -covering Pampeluna and St. Sebastian, the second -division occupied the various rugged paths and -passes winding Up the steep sides of the mountains -near Roncesvalles and Maya; the seventh division -those of Echalar; the light division the heights of -Santa Barbara, and the road leading to St. Estevan, -opposite to Bera; and the first division and -Spaniards guarding the left bank of the Bidassoa -to the sea-coast. The latter troops helped to block -up the numerous <i>gaps</i>, all along the crest of the -position, such as mountain paths, goat tracts, and -dried water-courses, as well as the numerous fords -across the Bidassoa. This extended position is -about thirty-eight miles in extent, as the crow -flies, running north west from Roncesvalles to -the town of Fontarabia, (which is situated near the -mouth of the Bidassoa, where this river empties -itself into the sea,) but necessarily following the -rugged and zigzag flinty roads, along the winding -or crooked valleys, or over difficult mountains, -intersected with deep glens, chasms, craggy defiles, -tremendous precipices, and through almost impenetrable<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">294</a></span> -forests. The distance may be fairly -calculated at sixty miles for troops to march from -right to left.</p> - -<p>On the 13th, the Duke of Dalmatia came from -the north for the purpose of taking the command -of the French army. The 15th being the anniversary -of Napoleon's birth-day, the enemy at -night illuminated their bivouac, by ingeniously -festooning the branches of the trees with thousands -of paper lamps, which produced a very bright glare, -and of course presented a very novel appearance.</p> - -<p>Four days after this, the fifth division began to -dig the trenches at St. Sebastian, for the purpose -of erecting batteries to batter <i>en brêche</i>. The third -and fourth divisions, which had been kept in the -neighbourhood of Pampeluna in reserve, and also -to assist the Spaniards in drawing a line of circumvallation -round that place, for the purpose of -hemming in and starving the garrison into a surrender, -now moved forward (leaving a Spanish -corps to guard the lines); the former went to -Olacque, and the latter to Biscarret; the sixth -division was at St. Estevan: <i>these three divisions -being the reserve</i>, and ready to succour at those -points where their assistance might be required. -The cavalry and artillery were cantoned in rear of -the centre and left of the whole army.</p> - -<p>One evening, while reclining on the parched and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">295</a></span> -sun-burnt turf at the tent door, our milch goat -nibbling particles of hard biscuit out of my hand, -on looking around, I was much struck with the -beauty of the scenery; the azure sky was reddened -and glowing with a variety of brilliant tints, -reflected from the glare of the setting sun, whose -bright rays glided the rugged peaks of the towering -and great bulging mountains which every -where inclosed us. A long line of grey-coated -French sentinels lined the opposite ridge, and one -of their bands was playing a lively French air. In -the valley below us, the little active Basque boys -and girls were pelting each other with apples,<a name="FNanchor_56_56" id="FNanchor_56_56"></a><a href="#Footnote_56_56" class="fnanchor"><sup>56</sup></a> between<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">296</a></span> -the hostile armies, while the straggling -and half-starved Spanish soldiers (who dared not -pluck the fruit) pretending to enjoy the sport, -but in reality were picking up the apples, and -carefully depositing them in their small forage -bags. In the back ground sat our tanned and -veteran batman,<a name="FNanchor_57_57" id="FNanchor_57_57"></a><a href="#Footnote_57_57" class="fnanchor"><sup>57</sup></a> employed in mending a pack-saddle, -after a long day's forage, and casting -an eye of affection towards his animals, which -were tied round a stake, feeding, with ears -turned back, on some fresh heads of Indian corn. -In the meanwhile my messmate was conversing -with, and drawing a caricature of, a dowdy woman,<a name="FNanchor_58_58" id="FNanchor_58_58"></a><a href="#Footnote_58_58" class="fnanchor"><sup>58</sup></a> -(from the Asturias,) loaded with an oblong -basket of fresh butter, with her arms akimbo, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">297</a></span> -her nut-brown knuckles resting on hips which -supported no less than four short coarse woollen -petticoats; from underneath these branched out a -pair of straddling legs, of enormous circumference, -the feet being wrapped in brown hairy skins, by -way of sandals. In this position of things my contemplative -mood was all at once interrupted by an -officer of the <i>rifle corps</i> riding up, who, with a -mysterious air, whispered me, by way of a profound -secret, that he had become acquainted with a Spanish -family, residing in the town of Bera, and offered -to introduce me, provided I would agree to -limit my attentions to the eldest daughter, <i>Maria -Pepa</i>, who, he acknowledged, was endowed with -very ordinary attractions, whereas her sister, <i>Ventura</i>, -of seventeen, possessed charms of a far superior -description. As a matter of course, not wishing -to throw any impediments in the way of so liberal -an offer, I readily acquiesced in the proposal, -and forthwith accompanied him to the <i>destined</i> -Casa, for as such I may justly nominate it, as I -may affirm that this introduction was subsequently -the means of the life of a wounded brother officer -being preserved, owing to the kind attention of -its inmates, who watched over his mattress night -and day, until he was out of danger: his hurt in -fact was so severe, that when a doctor was asked<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">298</a></span> -how he found the patient, he replied. "Pretty well, -but no man can ever recover from such a wound."</p> - -<p>On alighting from our horses we entered the -house, and having ascended the staircase, we -found <i>el Padre, la Madre, y las dos hijas</i> seated -in a spacious apartment, with the casements open, -and a French sentinel, who was posted on a projecting -grey rock, so thoroughly overlooking the -house, that we could almost fancy he could overhear -the lamentations of the anxious parents, -who, devoutly crossing themselves, prayed that -the siege of St. Sebastian might be speedily -brought to a conclusion, to enable them to return -to their house at that place, and secure the valuable -plate and property, which they had been -forced to abandon in great haste, to escape being -confined in that town during the siege. Having -passed some hours with them in a very agreeable -manner, we took our departure, with a promise -of shortly renewing our visit.</p> - -<p>The left and main body of the French army, -being now concentrated, formed a line at the foot -of the Pyrenees, in the vicinity of Forage and St. -Jean Pied de Port, in France, with its right wing -occupying the mountains from the Rock of la -Rhune to Bera, thence by the right of the Bidassoa -to Andaye, and flanked by the Bay of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">299</a></span> -Biscay. This ridge immediately covers the country -in front of St. Jean de Luz and Bayonne.</p> - -<p>Preparatorily to offensive movements, the French -marshal issued a flaming proclamation to his -troops, in which he reminded them that the -standards of Britain waved aloft, and that her -army, from the summits of the Pyrenees, proudly -looked down on the fertile fields of France,—an -evil which he attributed to the want of decision -in the late French commanders. "Let us then," -said the Marshal, "wipe off the stain from our -faded laurels, by chasing the English beyond -Vittoria, and there celebrate another triumph, to -add to the many victories which have so often -decorated your brows, in all parts of Spain, <i>and -on many a hard-fought day</i>."</p> - - - -<div class="footnote"> -<p><a name="Footnote_51_51" id="Footnote_51_51"></a><a href="#FNanchor_51_51">51</a> Lieut.-Colonel Ross of the Horse Artillery, as usual, commanded -this troop.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_52_52" id="Footnote_52_52"></a><a href="#FNanchor_52_52">52</a> There he gained information of our movements, which -forced him to follow the right bank of the Ebro, until he -reached Saragossa, where, crossing the river, and leaving a -small garrison behind, he moved towards the pass of Jaca, and -entering France on the 1st of July, he at last succeeded, after a -round-about march, with the loss of the greater part of his -<i>matériel</i>, in forming a junction with the French army.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_53_53" id="Footnote_53_53"></a><a href="#FNanchor_53_53">53</a> There was a great scarcity of wood in the neighbourhood -of this place, and as the third division followed ours, Sir Thomas -Picton cast his eye on a pile ready cut, and, as soon as he had -dismissed his division, sent a regular party, with a <i>val</i>, to secure -it, when, lo! it had all vanished!</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_54_54" id="Footnote_54_54"></a><a href="#FNanchor_54_54">54</a> Many of the officers of our corps wore red and grey pelisses, -similar to those of the Hussars. The bullet which I have described -was afterwards shown as a curiosity, and I examined it -myself; the silk braiding had been carried into the compressed -leaves of the book, and remained twisted tight round the ball.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_55_55" id="Footnote_55_55"></a><a href="#FNanchor_55_55">55</a> These produce an abundance of small tart apples.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_56_56" id="Footnote_56_56"></a><a href="#FNanchor_56_56">56</a> This was a usual pastime among them, throughout the -mountains, which abounded with vast quantities of apple trees. -One day another officer and myself were enjoying a rural walk, -when we met two of our friends, whom for amusement we -pelted with apples, and drove them at full speed out of the -orchard. All of a sudden, we were assailed by a number of the -Basque boys, led on by a girl, who had witnessed our sport at a -distance, and, although we piqued ourselves on being pretty good -throwers, we found it a difficult matter to contend with them, -from their dexterity in dealing out such irritating blows on our -faces and legs; until, being ashamed to ask for quarter of such -diminutive and laughing antagonists, we made a last effort, and -succeeded in hitting one of their leaders on the bare heel, when -they all ran away, to our exceeding satisfaction. My companion -had been a Cadet at the Royal Military College at Marlow, and -declared that he had never experienced a warmer rencontre in his -more juvenile affrays at that place.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_57_57" id="Footnote_57_57"></a><a href="#FNanchor_57_57">57</a> The batmen of the army were hard-working and privileged -characters, who, after unloading at the end of harassing marches -were obliged to go a great distance in search of forage, and -armed with a sickle ready to cut down even rushes, or any -thing they could lay their hands upon, for their famished -animals. If all happened to be right, after a long day's journey -when questioned by the anxious officers (no matter of what -rank), they would negligently turn away, and scarcely give any -answer; but if one of their horses or mules happened to be -lame or suffering from a sore back, or had cast a shoe, they -would fret, fume, curse, swear, throw the ropes about, and give -such a catalogue of evils, as to terrify the master with the idea -that all was going to rack and ruin.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_58_58" id="Footnote_58_58"></a><a href="#FNanchor_58_58">58</a> These hardy women are in the habit, thus heavily loaded, -of walking thirty or forty miles a day.</p> -</div> - - - - -<hr /> - -<div class="chapter"> - <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">300</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER XIV.</h2> -</div> - -<blockquote> -<p class="hang">Offensive operations of the Duke of Dalmatia—Partial retrogression -of the British—Ill success in the storming of the breaches -at St. Sebastian—Movements of the various divisions—Great -extent of the British line along the Pyrenees—Interesting -domestic scene attending the departure of the Author's Division -from the town of Bera—Battle of Pampeluna—Embarrasing -situation of the light division through an accidental separation -from the army—Successes obtained over the French, and -their consequent retreat—Active movements, and capture of -the enemy's baggage—A trait of character—Continued advantages -gained over the French, who are driven beyond the -Pyrenees.</p> -</blockquote> - - -<p>The Duke of Dalmatia, on the 25th of July, -assaulted the passes in the neighbourhood of -Roncesvalles,<a name="FNanchor_59_59" id="FNanchor_59_59"></a><a href="#Footnote_59_59" class="fnanchor"><sup>59</sup></a> and the Count d'Erlon that of -Aretesque, four miles in front of Maya. The result -of this day's combat obliged Generals Cole,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">301</a></span> -Byng, and the Spanish General Morillo, to fall -back from Roncesvalles; owing to which retrograde, -the British army were taken in reverse. The -fifth division, at daybreak, had stormed the -breaches of St. Sebastian without success; two -thousand men had fallen, or were made prisoners, -at the various points of contest; and General Hill -fell back, during the night, from the pass of Maya. -So far every thing seemed propitious to the views -of the French marshal. Under all these circumstances, -General Campbell, (who was stationed -with a Portuguese brigade at the pass of Los -Alduides,) finding his flanks laid bare, retired from -that post, and, during the 26th, formed a junction -with General Picton, who, by a flank movement to -the right, had marched from Olacque to Lizoain, -for the purpose of succouring the troops falling -back from Roncesvalles.</p> - -<p>During these operations, General Hill had -taken up a strong position at Irrueta, sixteen -miles from the pass of Aretesque, where he opposed, -for the time being, the farther progress of -the Count d'Erlon. This position covered the -flank of General Picton's column, retrograding -from Zubiri, and prevented the Count d'Erlon -from uniting with the Duke of Dalmatia; and -also enabled the sixth division to march direct to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">302</a></span> -the rear from San Estevan, and to unite at the -well-arranged point <i>d'appui</i>, five miles in front -of Pampeluna, where, on the 27th, the general-in-chief -joined those troops which had retired -from Zubiri, under the command of Generals -Picton, Cole, Byng, Campbell, and Morillo, and -who were now drawn up on a strong ridge in -front of Pampeluna, and flanked by the rivers -Arga and Lanz. General Picton was in a manner -thrown back on the left of the Arga, in front of -Olaz, and supported by General Cotton, with the -cavalry in reserve, for the purpose of preventing -the enemy from taking the right of the army in -reverse by the road from Zubiri. The enemy, -who had followed the march of the troops by that -road, had no sooner arrived opposite the third -division, than by an oblique prolongation to their -right, they began to extend their line across the -front of the General-in-chief, under a fire of -small-arms,—by which manœuvre they succeeded -in cutting off General Hill's retreat by the Maya -road, running through Ortiz; he, therefore, having -passed through Lanz, hedged off diagonally in a -westerly direction, and, by an oblique march, -formed a junction with the seventh division (from -St. Estevan) at Lizasso, thence to co-operate, if -possible, with the left of the General-in-chief,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">303</a></span> -whose position in front of Pampeluna was about -eighteen miles from that place. During these -various movements, General Graham, with the -first and fifth divisions, and a corps of Spaniards, -remained stationary on the left bank of the Bidassoa, -for the double purpose of covering St. -Sebastian, (the siege of that place was now converted -into a blockade, and the battering train -embarked at the port of los Passages,) and watching -General Villate. The latter lined the opposite -bank of the river, to be in readiness to assume the -offensive, for the purpose of raising the siege of -St. Sebastian, or hanging on General Graham's -rear, in the event of the Duke of Dalmatia gaining -a victory at Pampeluna, or succeeding in -cutting off in detail the various divisions of the -British army, now thrown into echelon, and extending -from the banks of the Bidassoa, in front -of Irun, to seven miles in an easterly direction -beyond Pampeluna; a distance of at least sixty -miles for the army to unite to either flank, (between -two fortresses, whose ramparts were garnished -with the cannon and small-arms of the -enemy,) on an irregular quarter circle: amid -multifarious barren rocks, towering mountains, -and extensive forests, over whose inhospitable -regions it was necessary, amongst other things, -to convey provisions, ammunition, and biscuit<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">304</a></span> -bags, for the daily consumption of the moveable -divisions,—an operation attended with great difficulty -under such circumstances.</p> - -<p>Although the right of the army had been retiring -for two days, the light division still tranquilly -remained unmolested in front of Bera; but -on the morning of the 27th, on finding that the -seventh division had quitted the heights of Echalar, -and uncovered our right flank, the first brigade -quietly descended from the heights of Santa -Barbara, and the whole division concentrated behind -the defile on the road to Lazaca, the picquets -being left to mask this movement, and form the -rear-guard. As soon as the division had got clear -off, the picquets evacuated the farm-houses in succession -from the right; and lastly, at ten o'clock, -<span class="smcap">a. m.</span>, quitted the town of Bera within pistol-shot -of the enemy's sentinels, who pretended not -to notice this retrograde, probably being apprehensive -of bringing on an action without being -able at this point to display a sufficient force to -assume offensive movements, and also conjecturing -that the division might meet with a reception -little anticipated, on reaching the neighbourhood -of Pampeluna. The Duke of Dalmatia, at this -moment, was still pursuing the troops from Roncesvalles -and Zubiri, and actually within a few -hours of the vicinity of Pampeluna, <i>two days'<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">305</a></span> -march behind the second and seventh divisions, -and three in rear of the light division</i>, and even -<i>threatening to intercept the sixth division</i> from -St. Estevan.</p> - -<p>As I was left with the picquets at Bera, I had -a good opportunity of witnessing the <i>sang froid</i> -of the French outposts. They made no forward -movement, and as I was loitering behind, within -a short distance of the bridge of Lazaca, over -which the troops had crossed to the left bank of -the Bidassoa, I observed the Spanish family, (with -whom I had recently become acquainted,) with -rapid strides trudging along the flinty road, having -rushed from their only dwelling through fear of -the French, the instant they perceived the sentries -retiring from their posts. They now presented -real objects of commiseration, clad in thin shoes -and silk stockings; the glossy ringlets were -blown from off the forehead of <i>la Señorita -Ventura</i>, and a tear from her dark blue eye, -(shaded with raven eye-lashes), rolled down her -flushed cheek, into the prettiest pouting lips to -be imagined; a <i>mantilla</i> loosely hung across her -arm, fluttering in the breeze, and a black silk -dress, hanging in graceful folds around her delicate -form, gave her, with all her troubles, a most -enchanting appearance. <i>El Padre</i> accepted the -offer of my horse, and, sticking his short legs into<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">306</a></span> -the stirrup leathers, composedly smoked a cigar. -The mother took my arm, the other I offered to -<i>Ventura</i>, who smilingly declined, saying, "It is -not the fashion for <i>las Señoritas</i> to take the arm -of <i>los Caballeros</i>," but politely offered her hand. -While crossing the bridge, "Here," said the little -heroine, "why do you not call back <i>los soldados</i>, -and tell them to <i>tirár las bálas a este puénte</i>?" -I endeavoured to explain that our flank was -turned, and all the grand manœuvres of an army; -little to her satisfaction, for she could not comprehend -any other than the front attack.</p> - -<p>On entering the town, the family stopped at a -large stone mansion of a relation, where they -intended to take up their abode for the present: -the parents urged my departure, through fear that -I might fall into the hands of the enemy. I then -took my farewell of them, (as I thought, for the -last time), and galloping through the town, soon -came within sight of the division, threading -its march up a steep defile, enclosed on all sides -by an extensive forest. Towards evening we -encamped, one league and a half W. N. W. of -San Estevan, on the mountain of Santa Cruz, -from whence we still commanded a view of the -French bivouac. Here we halted during the -night.</p> - -<p>On the following day, the battle of Pampeluna<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">307</a></span> -took place thirty miles in our rear, but, being -entangled amongst the mountains, we did not -hear of the event until three days afterwards. -The combat began in a singular manner: the -sixth division, under Gen. Pack, while on its -march over a rough country, intersected by stone -walls, within a few miles of Pampeluna, suddenly -encountered the grey-coated French columns in -full march, debouching from behind the village -of Sauroren for the purpose of outflanking the -left of the fourth division. The consequence -of these two hostile bodies clashing was, that -the enemy's van were driven back by a hot fire -of musketry. The French, being thus foiled in this -manœuvre, turned their grand efforts against the -front of the heights on which the fourth division -was stationed, commanded by Sir L. Cole. The -valour of the red regiments shone transcendant, -and the Marquis of Wellington repeatedly thanked -the various corps, while they were recovering -breath to renew fresh efforts with the bayonet, in -driving the enemy headlong from the crest of the -rugged heights; thus forcing them, after a most -sanguinary and furious contest, to desist from -farther offensive movements on that position.</p> - -<p>The General-in-chief could only collect, at the -end of three days, two brigades of the second -division, General Morillo's, and part of the Count<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">308</a></span> -d'Abisbal's Spaniards, and the <i>three reserve divisions</i>, -to oppose the Duke of Dalmatia; which -clearly demonstrates the great difficulty of occupying -such a vast and rugged range of country. -The <i>first</i>, <i>second</i>, <i>fifth</i>, <i>seventh</i>, and <i>light divisions</i>, -were too far distant to join in the action of -the 28th; and even the third division, only a few -miles to the right of the field of action, could not -take part in it, as the enemy had a corps of observation -opposite General Picton, backed by a -numerous train of artillery and a large body of -cavalry, in readiness to engage him, should the -<i>sixth</i> and <i>fourth</i> divisions lose the day.</p> - -<p>The light division continued in position at -Santa Cruz during the whole of the 28th, having -completely lost all trace of the army; and, during -these doubtful conjectures, at sunset we began to -descend a rugged pass, leading W.S.W. near Zubieta, -to endeavour to cut in upon the high road between -Pampeluna and Tolosa, as it was impossible -to know whether General Graham, by this time, -was not even beyond the latter town. To add to our -difficulties, the night set in so extremely dark that -the soldiers could no longer see each other, and -began to tumble about in all directions; some -became stationary on shelvings of rocks, or so -enveloped in the thicket, that they could no -longer extricate themselves from the trees and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">309</a></span> -underwood. The rocks and the forest resounded -with many voices, while here and there a small -fire was kindled and flared up, as if lighted in the -clouds by some magic hand. For myself, I at -length became so exhausted and out of temper, -at the toil of lugging along my unwilling steed, -that in a fit of despair I mounted, and keeping a -tight rein, permitted the animal to pick its -own steps. The branches of the trees so continually -twisted round my head that I expected -every minute to find myself suspended; at last -the trusty horse made a dead stop, having emerged -from the forest into a small hamlet, where I encountered -a few harrassed soldiers, enquiring of -each other where the main body had vanished to, -or what direction to pursue, for they no longer -knew whether they were advancing or retiring; and, -without farther ceremony, they began to batter -with the butt-end of their firelocks the strong and -massive doors of the slumbering inhabitants, demanding, -with stentorian voices, if any troops -had passed that way?—a difficult question for -people to answer who had just risen from their -mattresses, and now timidly opened their doors, -in considerable alarm, being apprehensive that we -had come at midnight hour to rob and plunder<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">310</a></span> -them. At last a resolute Spaniard<a name="FNanchor_60_60" id="FNanchor_60_60"></a><a href="#Footnote_60_60" class="fnanchor"><sup>60</sup></a> threw a large -capote over his shoulder, and, stepping forward, -said, "<i>Señores Caballeros</i>, only inform me -whence you came or whither you are going, and -I will be your guide;" but we were so bewildered, -owing to the crooked path, and the intricate -windings of the forest, that no one could take -upon himself to point towards the direction of the -bleak mountain we had come from, or the name -of the place we were going to; as a matter of -expediency, therefore, we patiently awaited the -coming morn.<a name="FNanchor_61_61" id="FNanchor_61_61"></a><a href="#Footnote_61_61" class="fnanchor"><sup>61</sup></a></p> - -<p>At daybreak, a scene of complete confusion -presented itself, the greater part of the division<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">311</a></span> -being scattered over the face of a steep and woody -mountain, and positively not half a league from -whence they had started on the previous evening. -As soon as the various corps had grouped together, -they followed the only road in sight, and soon -met a mounted officer, who directed them towards -Leyza: near that place one-half of the division -were already bivouacked, having reached the -valley before the pitchy darkness had set in. It -was now the third day since we had retired from -Bera, and Gen. Baron C. Alten became so uneasy, -that he ordered some of the best-mounted -regimental officers to go in various directions to -ascertain, if possible, some tidings of the army, -with which he had had no communication for -three days, being now isolated amongst the wilds -of the Pyrenees, on the left of the river Bidassoa, -half-way between St. Sebastian and Pampeluna. -At six o'clock the same evening we again broke -up and marched two leagues in the direction of -Arressa, and then bivouacked in a wood, with an -order not to light fires, thus to prevent any of the -enemy's scouts or spies ascertaining our route. -Two hours after nightfall, the troops were again -put in motion, and I was left in the forest, with -directions to continue there all night, to bring off -in the morning any baggage or stragglers that -might happen to go astray. At daylight on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">312</a></span> -30th, having collected together a few women (who -dared not again encounter another toilsome night-march -along the verge of precipices); it was a -droll sight to see this noisy group defiling from -the forest, many dressed in soldiers' jackets, -battered bonnets, and faded ribbons, with dishevelled -locks hanging over their weather-beaten -features, as they drove along their lazy <i>borricas</i> -with a thick stick; and, when the terrific blows -laid on ceased to produce the desired effect, they -squalled with sheer vexation, lest they might be -overtaken, and fall into the hands of the enemy's -light horse. Having travelled for two hours as a -sort of guide to these poor women, I perceived an -officer at some distance in front, and, on my overtaking -him, he expressed the greatest joy at seeing -me, and declared that he had been wandering for -some hours in the most agitated state of mind, -not knowing whither to bend his footsteps. The -division had drawn up again during the night, and -he having, lain down on the flank of the column, -had fallen into a profound slumber, out of which -he had awoke at broad daylight, with the rays -of the sun shining full on his face; and, when -somewhat recovering his bewildered recollections, -he wildly gazed around for the column which had -vanished, and springing on his feet, hallooed with -all his might; but no answer was returned, a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">313</a></span> -solemn silence reigned around, save the fluttering -of the birds amongst the luxuriant foliage of the -trees; the morning dew no longer bespangled the -sod, nor did the print of a single footstep remain -to guide his course: at length, in a fit of desperation, -he hastily tore a passage through the -thicket, and luckily reached the road, and at random -sauntered along in no very pleasant mood, -until I overtook him.—Soon after this we heard -to our left sounds like those of distant thunder; -as the sky was perfectly serene, we concluded -that the noise must be caused by a heavy firing -of musketry.<a name="FNanchor_62_62" id="FNanchor_62_62"></a><a href="#Footnote_62_62" class="fnanchor"><sup>62</sup></a> On reaching Arriba, we found most -of the doors closed; however, we succeeded in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">314</a></span> -purchasing a loaf, and then seated ourselves on -the margin of a clear mountain-stream, where we -devoured it, and forthwith solaced ourselves with -a hearty draught of the refreshing beverage. This -stream looked so inviting, that we threw off our -clothes and plunged into it. Notwithstanding the -cooling effects of the bathe, the feet of my companion -were so much swollen, owing to previous -fatigue, that with all his tugging he could not -pull on his boots again; fortunately mine were -old and easy, so we readily effected an exchange, -and then followed the road across a high mountain, -from whose summit we saw the division -bivouacked to the right of the broad and well-paved -road (near Lecumberri) which leads from -Pampeluna to Tolosa; from this position we -could march to either of those places, being half-way -between them; here the division awaited -the return of its scouts the whole of the following -day.</p> - -<p>The French army being completely worn out, -and having suffered terribly in killed and wounded, -continued to retreat during the 31st, followed by -the five victorious divisions of the British in three -columns, by the roads of Roncesvalles, Maya, and -Donna Maria. On the evening of the same day, -although obliquely to the rear of the pursuing -columns, we received orders, if possible, to overtake<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">315</a></span> -the enemy, and attack them wherever they -might be found. Accordingly, in the middle of -the night we got under arms and began our march. -Towards the middle of the following day, (the 1st -of August), having already marched twenty-four -miles, we descended into a deep valley between -Ituren and Elgoriaga, where the division drew up -in column to reconnoitre the right flank of the -enemy, who were still hovering in the neighbourhood -of San Estevan. After an hour's halt, we -continued our movement on the left of the Bidassoa, -and for three hours ascended, or rather -clambered, the rugged asperities of a prodigious -mountain, the by-path of which was composed of -overlapping slabs of rock, or stepping-stones. At -four o'clock in the afternoon a flying dust was -descried, glistening with the bright and vivid -flashes of small-arms, to the right of the Bidassoa, -and in the valley of Lerin. A cry was -instantly set up "the enemy!" the worn soldiers -raised their bent heads covered with dust and -sweat: we had nearly reached the summit of this -tremendous mountain, but nature was quite exhausted; -many of the soldiers lagged behind, -having accomplished more than thirty miles over -the rocky roads intersected with loose stones; -many fell heavily on the naked rocks, frothing at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">316</a></span> -the mouth, black in the face, and struggling in -their last agonies; whilst others, unable to drag -one leg after the other, leaned on the muzzles -of their firelocks, looking pictures of despair, and -muttering, in disconsolate accents, that they had -never "fallen out" before.</p> - -<p>The sun was shining in full vigour, but fortunately -numerous clear streams bubbled from the -cavities and fissures of the rocks, (which were -clothed in many places by beautiful evergreens,) -and allayed the burning thirst of the fainting -men. The hard work of an infantry soldier at -times is beyond all calculation, and death, by the -road-side, frequently puts an end to his sufferings,—but -what description can equal such an exit?</p> - -<p>At seven in the evening, the division having -been in march nineteen hours, and accomplished -nearly forty miles, it was found absolutely necessary -to halt the second brigade near Aranaz, -as a rallying point. Being now parallel with the -enemy, and some hours a-head of the vanguard -leading the left column of our army, our right -brigade still hobbled onwards; at twilight we -overlooked the enemy within stone's throw, and -from the summit of a tremendous precipice: the -river separated us; but the French were wedged -in a narrow road, with inaccessible rocks enclosing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">317</a></span> -them on one side, and the river on the other: -such confusion took place amongst them as is -impossible to describe; the wounded were thrown -down during the rush, and trampled upon, and -their cavalry drew their swords, and endeavoured -to charge up the pass of Echalar, (the only -opening on their right flank,) but the infantry -beat them back, and several of them, horses and -all, were precipitated into the river; others fired -vertically at us, whilst the wounded called out for -quarter, and pointed to their numerous soldiers, -supported on the shoulders of their comrades in -bearers, composed of branches of trees, to which -were suspended great coats, clotted with gore, -or blood-stained sheets, taken from various habitations, -to carry off their wounded, on whom we -did not fire.</p> - -<p>Our attention was soon called from this melancholy -spectacle to support the rifle corps,<a name="FNanchor_63_63" id="FNanchor_63_63"></a><a href="#Footnote_63_63" class="fnanchor"><sup>63</sup></a> while -they repulsed the enemy, who had crossed over -the bridge of Yanzi to attack us, to enable the -tail of their column to get off. Night closed on -us, and the firing ceased; but, owing to our<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">318</a></span> -seizing the bridge, we cut off the whole of their -baggage, which fell into the hands of the column -of our army following from St. Estevan.</p> - -<p>In this way ended the most trying day's march -I ever remember. On the following morning, -soon after daylight, we filed across the bridge of -Yanzi, held by our pickets, and detached a small -force to guard the road towards Echalar, until -the troops came up from the direction of San -Estevan, which had hung on the enemy's rear for -the then three previous days. Continuing our -march, we once more debouched by the defile -opposite Bera, where the French sentinels were -still posted, as if rooted to the rocks on which -they were stationed the day we had taken our -departure.</p> - -<p>As soon as the second brigade came up, we -again ascended the heights of Santa Barbara, -where we found a French corporal, with a broken -leg, his head resting on a hairy knapsack, and -supported in the arms of a comrade, who generously -remained behind to protect the life of his -friend from the <i>cuchillo</i> of the Spaniards. As -soon as he had delivered him to the care of the -English soldiers, he embraced the corporal, saying, -"<i>Au revoir, bon camarade Anglais</i>," and, -throwing his musket over his shoulder, with the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">319</a></span> -butt-end <i>en l'air</i>, he descended the mountain to -rejoin the French army on the opposite range of -heights. Of course, no one offered to molest -this <i>simple soldat</i>, who easily effected his escape. -As our picquets could not enter the valley until -our right was cleared, and the enemy pushed from -the mountain of Echalar, as soon as another -division attacked those heights, the 1st rifles -moved on and clambered the mountain of St. Bernard, -supported by five companies of our regiment. -The soldiers had been for two days without -any sustenance, and were so weak that they -could hardly stand; however, an excellent commissary -had managed to overtake us, and hastily -served out half-a-pound of biscuit to each individual, -which the soldiery devoured while in the -act of priming and loading as they moved on to -the attack.</p> - -<p>The summit of the mountain was wrapped in -a dense fog: an invisible firing commenced, and -it was impossible to ascertain which party was -getting the best of the fight; the combatants -were literally contending in the clouds. When -half-way up the side of the mountain, we found -a soldier of the rifles lying on his face, and bleeding -so copiously that his havresack was dyed -in blood: we turned him over, and, being somewhat<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">320</a></span> -recovered before he was carried off, he told -us, in broken monosyllables, that three Frenchmen -had mistaken him for a Portuguese, laid hold -of him, thrust a bayonet through his thigh, smashed -the stock of his rifle, and then pushed him -from off the ledge of the precipice under which -we discovered him.</p> - -<p>The second French light infantry were dislodged, -before twilight, from the top of this -mountain; but the sparkling flashes of small-arms -continued after dark to wreath, with a crown -of fire, the summits of the various rocks about -Echalar.</p> - -<p>Thus, after a series of difficult marches, amongst -a chaotic jumble of sterile mountains, the enemy -were totally discomfited, with an enormous loss, -by a series of the most extraordinary and brilliant -efforts that had been made during the Peninsular -War. For three days the French indeed had the -vantage ground, owing to their superiority of numbers -at a given point; but on the fourth day, the -same divisions which had so heroically fought while -falling back, sustained, with their backs to a hostile -fortress, (whence the enemy sortied during -the battle,) a most desperate assault made by the -Duke of Dalmatia, over whom the Marquis of -Wellington gained a memorable victory, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">321</a></span> -ceased not in turn to pursue the French marshal, -until he was glad to seek shelter from whence he -came. The standards of Britain again waved -aloft, and flapped in the gentle breeze over the -fertile fields of France.</p> - - - -<div class="footnote"> -<p><a name="Footnote_59_59" id="Footnote_59_59"></a><a href="#FNanchor_59_59">59</a> Pampeluna is about thirty-five miles from the extremity of -the principal pass at Roncesvalles, forty-five from that of Aretesque, -in front of Maya, and fifty miles from the pass of Bera; -all these points it was necessary to occupy on the right of the -Bidassoa; which clearly demonstrates the advantage the enemy -possessed by attacking principally at Roncesvalles.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_60_60" id="Footnote_60_60"></a><a href="#FNanchor_60_60">60</a> It was a frequent custom, when in want of a guide, to -employ a peasant, who received a dollar at the end of his day's -journey. These <i>Pizanos</i>, being accustomed to pastoral lives, -were well acquainted with every inch of ground or by-path for -leagues around their habitations, as well as the various fords -across rivers and tributary streams, the depth of which depends -on the season of the year, or the quantity of rain that might -happen to fall at uncertain periods on these mountains.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_61_61" id="Footnote_61_61"></a><a href="#FNanchor_61_61">61</a> On the 29th, at the end of four days' fighting, both Marshals -desisted from hostilities in front of Pampeluna. The -French employed themselves in edging off to their right to -assist the Count d'Erlon, who had followed the march of General -Hill by Lanz. The Marquis of Wellington, on the other hand, -was drawing in the seventh division to insure a communication -with General Hill, and also watching his adversary's movements, -to take advantage of what might accrue on the morrow.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_62_62" id="Footnote_62_62"></a><a href="#FNanchor_62_62">62</a> This firing was near Lizasso, where the enemy endeavoured -to turn General Hill's left flank by the road to Buenzu, and -while the Count d'Erlon was striving to execute this movement, -the light division, unknowingly, were marching on his right -flank: however, the General-in-chief being still in position in -front of Pampeluna, finding that the Duke of Dalmatia had -weakened his left and centre, to support the Count d'Erlon, immediately -countermanœuvred, and attacked the right of his opponent -with the sixth and seventh divisions, under Lord Dalhousie, -and the left with the third division, and then pierced the centre of -the enemy with the fourth division and General Byng's brigade -of the second division, and thus before sunset pushed back the -enemy beyond Olacque. By this attack the left flank of the -Count d'Erlon became uncovered, which obliged him to fall back -during the night, towards the pass of Donna Maria, to avoid -falling into the snare originally intended for his adversary.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_63_63" id="Footnote_63_63"></a><a href="#FNanchor_63_63">63</a> One of the first I saw wounded was Capt. Perceval, of the -rifle corps. "Well," said he, "I am a lucky fellow, with one -arm maimed and useless by my side from an old wound, and -now unable to use the other."</p> -</div> - - -<p class="center p3b in0">END OF VOL. I.</p> - - -<p class="center p3b in0">LONDON:<br /> -PRINTED BY G. SCHULZE, 13, POLAND STREET.</p> - - - - -<hr /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2>NAVAL AND MILITARY TALES,<br /> -LATELY PUBLISHED BY<br /> -MESSRS. COLBURN AND BENTLEY.</h2> -</div> - - -<p>1. TALES OF A TAR. By one of the Authors of "The -Naval Sketch Book." In 1 vol. post 8vo.</p> - -<blockquote> -<p class="p3b"><span class="smcap">Contents</span>:—The Breeze at Spithead—Jack a Biographer—Kind -Inquiries—Command O'Mind—Sailor Sal—Dreams at -Sea—A Brush in the Boats—A "Call" for the Cat.</p> -</blockquote> - - -<p>2. SAILORS AND SAINTS. By the Authors of "The -Naval Sketch Book." In 3 vols. post 8vo.</p> - -<blockquote> -<p>"While reading 'Sailors and Saints,' the floor of our room -has seemed to reel; we have fancied we have felt the salt spray -of the sea on our face—so completely have we been absorbed in -the graphic descriptions and living presentments before us."</p> - -<p class="sigright p3b"><i>United Service Journal.</i>      </p> -</blockquote> - - -<p>3. The NAVAL SKETCH BOOK; or, Service Afloat -and Ashore, with Characteristic Reminiscences, Fragments, and -Opinions. By an <span class="smcap">Officer</span>. Second Edition, with considerable -Additions. In 2 vols. post 8vo. 18s.</p> - -<blockquote> -<p class="p3b"><span class="smcap">Contents</span>:—Middy's First Day at Sea—Naval Discipline—Sketches -of Naval Society—Club-House Mania—Naval Anomalies—Coast -Blockade—Jack a Statesman—Naval Judges—Benbow -on the Bench—Royal Marines; their services—Galley -Stories—First of June—Cornwallis's Retreat—Saints at Sea—Voice -from the Deep—Vagaries at Newfoundland—Press—Levee-day -at the Admiralty—Port-Admiral's Dinner—Jack's Eccentricities—Glory, -or Glauber Salts—Epicures at Sea—Jack a leg—Naval -Authors—Admiral Ekins—Captains Parry, Franklin, -Lyon, Smith, Cochrane, Hall, Heywood, Heathcott, Brenton, -and Goldsmith—The Man-of-War's Man—Naval Tactics and -Battles, &c. &c.</p> -</blockquote> - - -<p class="p3b">4. The MILITARY SKETCH-BOOK, or Reminiscences -of Seventeen Years in the Service, Abroad and at Home. By -an Officer of the Line. 2 vols. post 8vo. Uniform with the -Naval Sketch-Book. 21s.</p> - - -<p>5. The CHELSEA PENSIONERS. A Series of Tales. -By the Author of "The Subaltern." In 3 vols. post 8vo. -1l. 11s. 6d.</p> - -<blockquote> -<p><span class="smcap">Contents</span>:—The Gentle Recruit—A Day on Neutral Ground—Saratoga—Maida—A -Pyrenean Adventure—The Rivals.</p> - -<p class="p3b">"These volumes well sustain the reputation of their Author; -being full of the same vivid delineations which make his narrations -seem so actual; the same picturesque description, and the -same soldier-like spirit which embodies the best remains of -chivalry."—<i>Edinburgh Literary Gazette.</i></p> -</blockquote> - - -<p>6. TALES of MILITARY LIFE. By the Author of the -"Military Sketch-Book." Containing Vandeleur and Gentleman -Gray. In 3 vols. post 8vo. 31s. 6d.</p> - -<blockquote> -<p class="p3b">"The military are bivouacked in the heart of society; they -are constantly in the centre of its gaieties; the sharers alike of -the joys and perils of life. Their progress is full of diversity, -and their adventures are equally tinged with the marvellous, the -pathetic, and the humorous. Our author has profited by his -opportunities, and seems as much at his ease among the Guerillas -and spoliated vineyards of Spain, as when he sketches the domestic -doings in the pleasant summer-quarters at Bath."—<i>Atlas.</i></p> -</blockquote> - - -<p class="p3b">7. The LIFE of a MIDSHIPMAN. A Tale founded on -Facts, and intended to correct an injudicious predilection in -Boys for the Life of a Sailor. In 1 vol. 8vo. with Engravings, -9s. 6d.</p> - - -<p class="p3b">8. STORIES of WATERLOO. In 3 vols. post 8vo. -28s. 6d.</p> - - -<p>9. The KING'S OWN. A Tale of the Sea. By the -Author of "The Naval Officer." In 3 vols. post 8vo.</p> - -<blockquote> -<p class="p3b">"A more vigorous, original, and characteristic performance -has not appeared in our time."—<i>United Services Journal.</i></p> -</blockquote> - - -<p>10. 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Variations -in hyphenation have been standardised but all other spelling and -punctuation remains unchanged.</p> -</div> -</div> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Memoirs of the Late War, Vol 1 (of 2), by -John Cooke and George Fitzclarence and John Moodie - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MEMOIRS OF THE LATE WAR *** - -***** This file should be named 55952-h.htm or 55952-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/5/9/5/55952/ - -Produced by Brian Coe, Larry B. 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