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diff --git a/old/50932.txt b/old/50932.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 753f41c..0000000 --- a/old/50932.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1177 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Petrified Forest National Monument, Arizona, by -Dama Margaret Smith - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Petrified Forest National Monument, Arizona - -Author: Dama Margaret Smith - -Release Date: January 15, 2016 [EBook #50932] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PETRIFIED FOREST NATIONAL MONUMENT *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - - - - - _PETRIFIED FOREST - National Monument, Arizona_ - - - Cover Illustration: - _This is "Old Faithful". Just at the top of the hill it lies in stark - grandeur._ - - _DESCRIPTIVE--HISTORICAL--ILLUSTRATED_ - - _By - DAMA MARGARET SMITH_ - - COPYRIGHT 1930 - - - - - Petrified Forest National Monument, Arizona - - - _By Dama Margaret Smith_ - - - - - The Petrified Forest - - -In Arizona, that land of mystic beauties and many wonders, lies a great -tract of land that, once upon a time, was covered with waters of the -sea. How many centuries ago the ocean waves sparkled and rippled over -what is now the desert, no one can definitely say. But from the nature -of the stratum is which great logs are embedded, and the fossilized -reptiles found, it is known that they were entombed during the Triassic -age, many millions of years ago. - -Petrified logs are found over a wide area, more than a hundred square -miles being covered with varying amounts of the "stone" trees. This -fossilized "forest" is greater in area, more highly colored, and -contains more petrified wood than any like deposit in the world. - -Many visitors who have heard of the "forest" drive through miles of the -Reservation and ask at the Museum where they can find the Petrified -Forest. Inquiry discloses that they expected to find an area of standing -trees, trunks merely turned to stone, branches and all. Perhaps they -have seen one or more such trunks in Yellowstone National Park and think -to find hundreds of them here. Yet, when they learn the story of these -fallen monarchs, and catch a glimpse of the dazzling beauties of agate -and carnelian, jasper and onyx, no signs of disappointment are seen. Let -the visitor but leave his car to view the logs, and step by step he is -led on by here a gleaming fragment of carnelian, and there the soft -sheen of jasper and topaz. It is like the carpet of Fairyland. - -These trees did not grow where they lie, or even within many miles of -where they are found. They were carried from a long distance to this -region by flood waters, and after whirling and drifting around in the -inland sea then covering the land, they became waterlogged and finally -sank to the bottom, where some eddy or whirlpool carried them. Here they -lay for countless centuries, slowly being covered by silt and sand, -while yet other logs came to rest above them. Thousands of years elapsed -during this drifting and sinking into oblivion under the ooze of this -Triassic Sea. And then came Old Ocean, later on in the Mesozoic Age -submerging the entire region and adding its weight to the terrific -pressure already brought to bear on the burial place of the giants. This -pressure packed the sands to stone, and compressed the clays to shale. -Already the logs were impregnated with a strong solution of silica, with -iron and manganese also present, and the pressure forced it into every -fiber. Atom by atom the cells of the wood were dissolved and replaced by -the silica, which hardened, taking the exact shape of the cell it -destroyed. While the logs were probably partly petrified before the -influx of the ocean waters, a great many show that enormous pressure was -brought to bear while they were yet flexible. - -Some logs recently brought to light by the summer floods, are mashed -almost flat, cross sections measuring eighteen inches one way and more -than five feet the other. - - [Illustration: Courtesy National Park Service - - Cross section of log showing natural fracture.] - -Nature did not slight details in this work of substitution. Even to the -most minute particular the structure of the wood was replaced by the -intruder. Under the microscope it is possible to identify the kind of -wood represented. Dr. F. H. Knowlton has classified the major portion of -these trees as belonging to a species of conebearing tree now extinct, -related to the Norfolk Island Pine. - -The logs lay buried for numberless centuries, but natural forces were at -work bringing them to the surface again. During the Tertiary Period, a -slow upheaval brought the submerged area to light. On and upward it -rose, until it now lies more than a mile above the level of the ocean. -Freed of its Old Man of the Sea, warmed and comforted by Arizona's -brilliant sun and searching wind, the region lay at rest. - -Slowly the fingers of time, tipped with wind and rain, broke through the -heavier sandstone above, and tore away the softer layers of shale and -marl. Bit by bit, the covering was lifted from the buried logs, and one -by one, the gem-like wonders saw the light of day. And what a glorious -resurrection it was! As the support was plucked from about them, they -left their sleeping places in the sandstone and marl and rolled to the -levels below. Frost tore at their vitals; rain fell into the crevices -and freezing there, expanded, until many of the finer logs are now -merely heaps of gleaming jewels, opaline and rose, lavendar and mauve, -deepest brown and softest yellow, black and purple, blue and red. In -their range of color they leave the beauty lover breathless. And these -colors are permanent, too, having endured through the aeons. - - [Illustration: Courtesy Mrs. Adam Hanna - -The most noted tree in the whole reservation. The Natural Bridge. About - four feet in thickness this 111 foot log measures 44 feet between the - sides of the arroyo.] - - - - - How? When? Why? - - -"How did it happen?" - -That is usually the first question asked of the rangers in the Petrified -Forest. - -In contact with eighty thousands or more tourists each year, there are -certain questions asked so many times that one learns what the average -person is most curious about in connection with these petrified trees. -Here are the most popular of these questions, together with the answers, -shorn of technical terms: - -Why are none of the trees standing? - -This is simply an exposed deposit of petrified logs that came here from -a distance, as driftwood. - -How were they brought here? - -Probably by rivers in flood periods. This region might have been the -mouth of a large river as is indicated by the crossbedded sandstone. - -Why are they piled up in particular spots? - -This was at one time an inland sea. The trees floated here, and were -swept by whirlpools or strong currents into eddys where they became -waterlogged and sank. - -How long ago was that? - -Men who have made a lifetime study of it, say it was from ten to forty -million years ago. - -What became of the sea that was here? - -Gradual upheaval of the country, aided by earthquakes and volcanic -action, raised this area and drained it. The Sierras were probably -brought to their present height during these disturbances. - -What kind of trees are they? - -Mostly an extinct species of cone bearing tree. (_Araucarioxylon -Arizonicum._) - -How big were these trees? - -Some of them are now a hundred feet long, and six to eight feet in -diameter. The Natural Bridge is one hundred and eleven feet long. The -height of some of these trees while standing was doubtless two hundred -feet or more. - -Why did they turn to rock? - -They did not really turn to stone. Silica and minerals in solution were -forced into the wood, dissolved it, and replaced the wood cells with -their own substance. - -How is it polished? - -By a process of grinding with carborundum and diamond dust, then rubbed -with leather buffer. It approaches the diamond in hardness and an -ordinary emery wheel will scarcely mark it. - -What is the weight of the petrified wood? - -About 200 pounds to the cubic foot. It varies. - -Why can't visitors take specimens away with them? - -First: Because it is against the United States Law. After that comes -consideration of future visitors to the Petrified Forest National -Monument. When one reflects that there are about eighty thousand -visitors here annually and that if each visitor took what pleased him, -it is an unrefutable fact the best specimens would speedily disappear. A -visitor would not be satisfied with one small piece. There would be the -home folks to consider; the neighbor that fed the left-at-home cat, and -the friend who loaned his kodak for the trip. These would all need -souvenirs. It would be difficult to choose among several beautiful -pieces and so a compromise would be made by taking all of them. - - [Illustration: Courtesy National Park Service - - They leave their sleeping places in the sides of the marl hills and - roll to levels below.] - -What is a National Monument? - -An area set aside by the President of the United States to preserve -regions of scientific, historic or prehistoric interest. - -What is the area of the Petrified Forest National Monument? - -25,908 acres. - -Who has charge of it? - -The National Park Service, one of the largest and the most important -bureaus of the Department of the Interior. A custodian and several Park -Rangers are the immediate representatives of the Government on the -Reservation. - - [Illustration: Courtesy National Park Service - -As the soil slowly settles beneath these giants their weight dismembers - them. In this way they were broken in the lengths we find them now.] - - - - - The Rainbow and Third Forests - - -The Rainbow Forest lies eighteen miles east of Holbrook on U. S. Highway -70, the Holbrook-Springerville Road, open and in splendid condition the -year around. This Rainbow Forest area contains a greater amount of -highly colored petrified wood, than any of the other "forests" included -in the Reservation. - -The varied and decided coloring of the logs, many of which are broken -into minute chips, is so gorgeous that it has been given this name. The -outstanding features of the Rainbow Forest are the logs themselves, -which may be seen in all stages of preservation, some not entirely -uncovered, some lying on the sides of the marl hills waiting their time -to be let down by erosion, to the levels below, some almost at the top -of the sandstone cap, and others in fragments at the bottoms of ravines; -the Government Museum, which is free to the public, located half a mile -from the highway. In this building the Government has collected -outstanding specimens of wood from all sections of the Reservation. -These representative specimens, both polished and unpolished form an -interesting exhibit. Here too, are Indian relics found in the -prehistoric ruins scattered throughout the area. Many of the sections of -wood here surpass the very finest Italian marble both in coloring and -composition. One huge section of a log, weighing a ton, holds all the -colors of the rainbow and the intermediate tints. One may trace woodland -scenes, Japanese landscapes, city skylines, outlines of animals and -trees in the polished surface of this tree. This specimen was shipped to -Denver and polished there, and required many days of grinding with -carborundum and diamond dust. No visitor fails to admire it. Another -exhibit which evokes admiration is a globe about eight inches in -diameter, which was turned and polished in Germany. It was originally a -big knot or burl and shows swirls of color like a child's agate marble. - - [Illustration: Courtesy National Park Service - - Showing work of erosion. This log is becoming slowly undermined by the - action of the small stream.] - -In this Museum are fragments of wood bearing at their clusters of topaz -crystals, black crystals and beautiful purple amethysts. Various -explanations have been advanced as to why these gemlike formations are -found in the wood. One authority says cavities in the logs caused by -decay, are filled by mineral crystals, there being no wood fiber to -absorb. Other geologists offer the theory that the resin and sap forced -to the center formed into tangible shape by being crystalized. Be that -as it may, the semi-precious stones were very much sought after, and a -great jewelry concern in the East had a crew of men working in these -"forests" blasting the precious work of nature to pieces in search of -the jewels. - -Of course this vandalism ceased abruptly when in 1906 President -Roosevelt issued the proclamation which made this Reservation a National -Monument. - -In the Museum is a register, in which all visitors are expected to sign -their names. In this book are found names from practically every -civilized nation in the world. - -In this Rainbow Forest is found one of the best preserved trees with the -stump, that has been discovered. It is to the Petrified Forest what the -Old Faithful Geyser is to Yellowstone Park. It is the tourists' friend. -This log is the favorite picture place in the entire Reservation. Here -parties stop their car and visit the fallen monarch. Almost any hour of -the day in pleasant weather, one can see little children playing on this -big log. Here they lunch and rest, and here they pose for their -photographs. The old fellow must have many happy memories collected -through the ages. It lies in the sunlight at the brow of the hill, as -one drops down to the Museum. Most probably before this log was broken -into sections, it measured well over two hundred feet. It is now about -fifty feet long, and at its thickest portion, measures six feet through. -The great stump still remains as it was when some terrific storm, -millions of years ago, uprooted it in its native forest. We call it "Old -Faithful." - -A mile or two east of the Museum is the Third Forest. Here is a tangible -sign that our far-removed forefathers admired the utility of the -petrified wood, if they did not appreciate its beauty. - -The ruins of quite a castle stand on the crest of a hill overlooking the -plains, and one can almost visualize the first dwellers in this mystic -land. See them laboriously carrying the heavy blocks of petrified wood -to the top of the hill where they are laid out in orderly rows to form -rooms. In the meantime, a close watch is kept that neither animal nor -human enemy may creep up unheeded. The walls have fallen during the -passage of time, but each foundation can be traced. Shards of broken -pottery in great amounts lie at the base of the hill. We wonder if some -angry housewife fired it out at her better half as he stumbled home from -a prehistoric lodge room too late to please her? - -Here, too, are found the workshops of arrowmakers. Chips, flaked thin as -wafers, lie like bits of rainbows about the place, and show that they -were broken from larger pieces by human agencies. This, we think, was -done by heating the rock wood to a high temperature and then touching, -lightly, the spot to be chipped with a feather dipped in water. - - - - - The Second Forest - - -Leaving the Headquarters area, where the Museum is located, the visitor -drives over a winding road, beautiful in its arid desert beauty, six or -seven miles to reach the Second Forest. Were it my privilege to name -this lovely section I should call it "The Coral Garden". In this -"forest" are many logs encrusted with coral formation. Some of them have -broken apart and even the interiors are mossed with the coral, soft rose -in color. The ground is covered with tiny round stones, coral colored. -Here many logs are filled with crystals and the range of coloring found -in the chips strewn over the landscape is marvelous. Many pebbles bear -the impression of seashells, and deep in the heart of a section of -petrified log was found a fossilized mussel. - - [Illustration: Courtesy National Park Service - - At one place in the First Forest a slender column of rock rises to the - height of thirty or forty feet. This is the Eagle Rock.] - -There is little of the sandstone cap in this area, and the logs lie in -the blue-gray marl formation. Here we find larger trees in greater -masses than elsewhere. Many of the trees lie piled on top of others in -the coulees and small arroyos, carved out by wind and rain, during the -centuries since these logs first settled there. One big tree, near the -road, is mashed flat its entire length of perhaps ninety feet. Evidences -of bark are plain on this particular log, and where the limbs were torn -off, the grain of the wood is quite discernible. One could spend hours -in this area, spellbound with the beautiful sight. - - - - - The Natural Bridge - - -About eight miles from Headquarters, and three miles from the Second -Forest, is the most noted tree in the Monument, the Natural Bridge. This -sleeping giant lies where it was abandoned as a plaything by the waters -that carried it here. Each end is firmly embedded in the sandstone rock, -which was formerly the sand at the bottom of the sea. In the process of -erosion, which finally carried away all of the material above this log, -it ultimately came to lie on the surface of the ground. As the land -rises somewhat to the south of it, water gathered there with the big log -forming a natural dam. This water tended to soften the sandstone, and -after a period of time it forced its way through under the log. Soon -this became a free passage for the water, and resulted in the formation -of the gorge which the prostrate trunk spans today. - -The Natural Bridge log is about four feet in thickness at the largest -point in sight. Part of the log is still encrusted with the sandstone -which wrapped it about, before wind and rain unshrouded it. The canyon -is twenty-five feet deep, and this one hundred and eleven foot log -measures forty-four feet between the points at which it rests on the -sides of the arroyo. - -From the canyon beneath it, cedar, juniper and cottonwood trees have -sprung to life and grown up to furnish shade for this comrade of another -Age. They must seem mere upstarts to this old veteran! - -A hundred yards or so to the east, down over the rim of the mesa, is -another freak of erosion, called the Pedestal Log. It is a large -section, resting upon a support of sandstone, ten or fifteen feet above -the level of the surrounding plain. It forms a protective cap which has -kept the softer material immediately under it from washing away. - - - - - The First Forest - - -Here, again, were I choosing a suitable name for this portion of the -Reservation I should not hesitate to call it "The Vandal's Paradise". It -has been badly denuded of its finest specimens, and the big trees -demolished by vandals. Here the despoiler has had full sway. Great trees -are blown to atoms by searchers for the semi-precious jewels. Choice -specimens have been hauled away by the carload. There was no law, other -than one's own individual decency to protect these jeweled timbers lying -near Adamana, which for years was the nearest railroad station and the -only entrance to the Reservation. This "forest" is located five miles -south of Adamana, and is about half a mile from the Natural Bridge. It -is composed of trees, which are geologically speaking, "all out of -place". That means they have all, by the work of erosion, been let down -from higher levels. They are badly shattered, but, nevertheless -beautiful, on account of the vivid coloring found in the fragments. -Another feature of this area is the carving of the rocks into beautiful -and fantastic shapes by the elements. At one place a slender column of -sandstone rises to the height of twenty-five or thirty feet, and -broadens at the top into a platform perhaps ten feet across. Here, for -years, an eagle has nested, and the rock bears the official name of -"Eagle Rock." Quite close to this rock is the "Snow Lady", a statuesque -pillar against the background of an imposing cliff. - -After an extended visit in 1889, Prof. Lester F. Ward, an eminent -paleobotanist, on the staff of the United States Geological Survey, -recommended that this area be made a National Park, or Reservation, in -order to preserve it from destruction and oblivion. Local leaders -brought pressure to bear upon their representatives in Washington, and -at least one of Holbrook's leading men, Mr. W. H. Clark, made a trip to -Washington in the interest of preserving the Petrified Forest. He saw -President Roosevelt in person and for half an hour talked with him -concerning the reasons no action had been taken by Congress to protect -the Forest. He left with the President's assurance that something would -be done. This something was a proclamation by President Roosevelt on -December 8, 1906, declaring the area to be a National Monument. - - - - - Prehistoric Dwellers - - -Throughout Arizona can be found traces of a vanished people. In and -around the Petrified Forest, prehistoric dwellings and "picture -writings" are plentiful, and of great antiquity and high development. -Probably nowhere have such pictographs been so well preserved. The soft -smooth sandstone was an ideal surface for the artist to work upon, and -nowhere in the world, in that age, could such suitable tools be found to -work with. Here at hand were sharp pointed chisels already prepared by -the fracturing of wood. These chisels were hard enough to cut glass. -Rounded pieces of the same material made excellent mallets. Hundreds of -these have been found in the Reservation. With these rude instruments, -this unknown people left for us a record of their existence graven deep -in the sandstone in sheltered places. These pictures today are a lasting -monument to the race that roamed this region in the gone-by centuries. - -These sketches depict different kinds of animals, such as antelope and -mountain sheep, snakes and turtles. They are grotesque and out of -proportion, but doubtless they represent, for the most part, animals -that formerly roamed the western plains. Some pictures, however, -represent animals that could never have been seen on land and sea, and -existed only in the fevered imagination of the artist. Perhaps there -were futurist artists even among those primitive men. - -In one scene a herd of deer cross a plain. Near that a stork stands on -attenuated legs and dangles what appears to be a baby in its bill. This -is doubtless the earliest picturization of a stork's visit. In another -place a long line of human figures clasp their hands and drag one -another up a steep incline. In the heart of the Reservation lies a mesa -almost entirely surrounded by a steep cliff that has broken and fallen -in ruins. On the huge boulders that have rolled to the desert below, -there are pages and pages of history could one but read what is so -plainly written. One figure stands alone disconsolately weeping. Quite -monstrous tears are falling from his eyes, and just beneath his weeping -figure a six inch bowl was found. Although broken in half by the passage -of time with its destructive elements the piece of pottery, at least two -thousand years old, was carefully restored and has an honored place in -the Government Museum. - - [Illustration: Courtesy C. J. Smith - - Graven deep into the stone in sheltered places thousands of years ago, - these pictures are a lasting monument to the people who roamed this - region in the gone-by centuries.] - -On almost every mesa are the remains of ancient dwellings. There are -arrowmaker's chips and fragments of pottery, and crude colored beads -that may have delighted some wee maiden with their brilliance. The -pottery shows two distinct varieties, the finger-nail decorations -covering the blackened bowls which seem to have served as cooking -utensils, and the finer pottery, on which the black and white tracings -are as startlingly vivid today, as they were so many, many centuries ago -when they were drawn by the day-dreaming housewife as she sat in the sun -and painted the fanciful designs. - - - - - Historical - - -By virtue of the Gadsden Purchase, at the close of the Mexican War, what -is now Arizona came into possession of the United States. At this date, -1848, there was no record of the Petrified Forest ever having been seen -by white men. In 1853 Lieut. Whipple, engaged in surveying a railroad -route to the Pacific, discovered the deposits lying to the north of the -present Reservation. He did not, however, discover the deposits of -petrified wood south of Adamana, and there is no definite record of just -when, and by whom, these "forests" were first seen. John Muir claims to -have discovered the Blue Forest. - -An Indian legend tells that one of their Goddesses wandered into the -place which is now the Petrified Forest. She was hungry, cold and -exhausted. When she saw the hundreds of logs lying around she was -delighted and managed to kill a rabbit with a club, expecting to have a -delicious supper. When she attempted to kindle a fire to cook her kill, -the logs were wet and would not burn. In anger and her disappointment, -she cursed the spot and turned the logs into stone that they might never -burn. - -As travel became more plentiful over the Santa Fe Railroad and across -country, great amounts of the fossilized wood were carried away or -destroyed, and the people of the Territory became alarmed about their -unprotected treasure. In 1895 the assembly sent this Memorial to -Congress. - - - House Memorial No. 4 - -TO THE SENATE AND HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES OF THE UNITED STATES OF -AMERICA IN CONGRESS ASSEMBLED: - -We, your memorialists, the eighteenth legislative assembly of Arizona, -beg leave to represent to your honorable bodies: - -FIRST: That there is in the northern part of this Territory, lying -within the borders of Apache County, near the Town of Holbrook, a -wonderful deposit of petrified wood commonly called the "Petrified -Forest" or "Chalcedony Park". This deposit, or forest, is unequalled for -its extent, the size of the trees and the beauty and great variety of -coloring found in the logs. - -The country ten miles square is covered by the trunks of trees, some of -which measure over two hundred feet in length and from seven to ten feet -in diameter. - -Ruthless curiosity seekers are destroying these huge trees and logs by -blasting them in pieces in search of crystals, which are found in the -center of many of them, while carloads of the limbs and smaller pieces -are being shipped away to be ground up for various purposes. - -SECOND: Believing that this wonderful deposit should be kept inviolate, -that future generations may enjoy its beauties and study one of the most -curious and interesting effects of nature's forces, - -We, your memorialists, most respectfully request that the Commissioner -of the General Land Office be directed to withdraw from entry all public -lands covered by this forest until a Commission, or officer appointed by -your honorable body, may investigate and report to you upon the -advisability of taking this forest under the charge of the General -Government and making a National Park or Reservation of it. * * * - - J. H. Carpenter, SPEAKER - A. J. Doran, PRESIDENT - -Filed in the office of the Secretary of the Territory of Arizona this -11th day of February A. D. 1895, at 11 a. m. - -This appeal was effective and Congress appointed Prof. Lester F. Ward to -visit the Petrified Forest and make a report. The report was favorable -to preservation, and acting with his usual promptness, President -Theodore Roosevelt issued the proclamation which created the Petrified -Forest National Monument. - - [Illustration: Photo by C. J. Smith - - The surrounding country has washed away in the passing of years and -leaves this mammoth cross section thirty feet or more above the plain.] - -This proclamation, in part, follows: - - BY THE PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, A PROCLAMATION. - - WHEREAS, it is provided by section two of the Act of Congress, - approved June 8, 1906, entitled, "AN ACT FOR THE PRESERVATION OF - AMERICAN ANTIQUITIES", "THAT THE PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES IS - HEREBY AUTHORIZED, IN HIS DISCRETION, TO DECLARE BY PUBLIC - PROCLAMATION HISTORIC LANDMARKS, HISTORIC AND PREHISTORIC STRUCTURES, - AND OTHER OBJECTS OF HISTORIC OR SCIENTIFIC INTEREST TO BE NATIONAL - MONUMENTS * * * - - And, whereas the mineralized remains of Mesozoic forests, commonly - known as the "Petrified Forest", in the Territory of Arizona, situated - upon the public lands owned and controlled by the United States, are - of the greatest scientific interest and value, and it appears that the - public good would be promoted by reserving these deposits of - fossilized wood as a national monument with as much land as may seem - necessary for the proper protection thereof; - - Now, therefore, I, Theodore Roosevelt, President of the United States - of America, by virtue of the power in me vested by section two of the - aforesaid Act of Congress, do hereby set aside as the Petrified Forest - National Monument * * * - - Warning is hereby expressly given to all unauthorized persons not to - appropriate, excavate, injure, or destroy any of the mineralized - forest remains hereby declared to be a National Monument or to locate - or settle upon any of the lands reserved and made a part of said - Monument by this proclamation. - - In witness whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and caused the Seal of - the United States to be affixed. - - Done at the city of Washington, this 8th day of December, in the year - of our Lord one thousand nine hundred and six and the Independence of - the United States the one hundred and thirty-first. - - THEODORE ROOSEVELT. - -In 1911, President Taft made a new proclamation reducing the extent of -the Petrified Forest National Monument to its present size of 25,908 -acres. - - - - - The Blue Forest - - -While the Blue Forest was included in the National Monument originally -it is now several miles outside the present boundary. It is from this -section that much of the wood used commercially is obtained. Many find -this weird formation the most interesting spot in the entire country. -Miles and more miles of blue-gray mounds, varying in size, formed of the -crumbling marl have been beaten and blown into a semblance of numberless -haystacks. It is arduous climbing to reach the top of this Blue Forest, -but the view obtained is well worth the skinned knees and twisted ankles -produced by rolling shale. From the highest elevation there is a view -that beggars description. One cannot put into words his feeling of -desolation, of helplessness, that comes in looking over the formation. -Vanishing in the distance the mounds lie in rows that grow gradually -smaller and smaller until they melt into the level landscape below. On -the tops of these cold, blue mounds great trees lie prone, many of them -shattered and cascading their jeweled hearts down the slope.... - -Here great piles of splintered, colorless wood are found, looking as if -the chopper had just left the scene of his labors, the chips of his -day's work lying scattered about. Again, a big tree broken open by the -frost, or other agencies, discloses a lining of gleaming crystals, -glittering and sparkling in the Arizona sun. Here the great dinosaur -lived and died, and from his tomb fossil bones have been carried to -universities far and wide. Here the phytosaurus and the stegosaurus -breathed their last, and from here was taken the wicked looking upper -jaw of a phytosaurus which had weathered the ravages of time and -elements. This lies in a glass case in the store at Headquarters, where -all may see it and be thankful such creatures roam this region no -longer. - -Here, the rattlesnake lies coiled in the shade of the sombre hued cones, -and scarcely troubles to sound his warning when visitors intrude. -Overhead a tireless buzzard hangs suspended. No other signs of life are -seen in this dead gray waste, the burial plot of the Dark Ages. - - - - - The Painted Desert - - -Many of the Petrified Forest visitors are intensely interested in the -Painted Desert, lying only a few miles from Adamana. On U. S. Highway -66, six miles from the Rio Puerco, one comes to a sign: "Painted Desert -Inn". A mile from the highway this inn is stationed. But before reaching -the building, an abrupt climb brings one to the top of the mesa, and -spread out before the eyes is the world's most magnificent palette, with -the colors ready mixed,--The Painted Desert. It is a breath-taking -vision that bursts on one's sight, this "El Pintado Desierto" that -Coronado stumbled upon and named in 1540. As far as one can see colors -mingle and glow. From the most delicate lavendar to the deepest purple, -from palest pink to flaming red, greens, browns, chocolate and blues, -all the colors are here. This desert does not lie in level sandy -stretches, but is formed of mounds and hills, and varying sizes of -"haystacks". - -With each hour, as the light changes in the sky, so change the colors of -this wonderland. It is truly the foot of the rainbow. Walk down the -trail and there is the bewildered feeling that one has strayed into an -immense paint factory which has just been badly wrecked! The sand -underfoot is light, almost like burnt earth, but the colors are there, -mixed by the Super Artist. - -This Painted Desert is a fitting frame for the Petrified Forest. - - - - - How To Reach The Petrified Forest - - -The Petrified Forest is one of the most popular and accessible units of -the National Park Service, open every day in the year. Westbound -tourists traveling by automobile may choose between two great -continental highways that will lead directly to the "Forest". - -U. S. Highway No. 66 passes on the north and tourists may enter the -Forest either from Adamana or Holbrook. This highway brings the traveler -by the famous Painted Desert. - -U. S. Highway No. 70 on the Carlsbad-Petrified Forest-Grand Canyon -Route, winds through the foothills of the White Mountains by way of -Springerville, and passes through one of the most interesting sections -of the Petrified Forest. - -Eastbound tourists enter the Forest from Holbrook where Highways No. 66 -and 70 meet. - -The Santa Fe railroad, carrying The Chief, The Navajo, The California -Limited and the Grand Canyon Limited runs through Holbrook and Winslow. -Either east or west bound travelers on any of these trains may obtain a -twenty-four hour stopover. "La Posada" at Winslow combines all the -romance and fascination of the old Spanish regime with the most modern -conveniences for the comfort of those wishing to make it their home -while visiting surrounding attractions. From this hotel, the well known -Harveycar Motor Coaches, each with its charming girl courier, conveys -guests to the Petrified Forest. - -For those wishing to visit the Forest and resume their journey the same -day, arrangements have been made to meet eastbound Navajo No. 2, at -Winslow, take the guest to "La Posada" for breakfast, drive from there -to the Petrified Forest, where the most interesting points, including -the Museum, are visited, and then rejoin the train at Holbrook. The -program is reversed with west bound tourists on Navajo No. 9. The -coaches meeting the train at Holbrook make the "Petrified Forest Detour" -and drive to Winslow for luncheon at the hotel, resuming train travel -there. This trip affords a convenient and inexpensive means of seeing -the "Forest" and is a pleasant interruption of a long train journey. Any -tourist agency or Santa Fe ticket office can furnish additional -information. - -Rainbow Lodge, near the Museum at Headquarters of Petrified Forest, is -prepared to accommodate overnight visitors. New rock cabins and food -supplies are available. - -A public camp ground is provided by the Government. - - [Illustration: View of the Painted Desert, near Holbrook.] - - - PRICE 25 CENTS - _Postpaid Anywhere in United States_ - - DAMA MARGARET SMITH - Holbrook, Arizona - - PRESS OF - WINSLOW DAILY MAIL - WINSLOW, ARIZONA - - - - - Transcriber's Notes - - ---Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook - is public-domain in the country of publication. - ---Silently corrected a few palpable typos. - ---In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by - _underscores_. - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Petrified Forest National Monument, -Arizona, by Dama Margaret Smith - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PETRIFIED FOREST NATIONAL MONUMENT *** - -***** This file should be named 50932.txt or 50932.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/0/9/3/50932/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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