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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Petrified Forest National Monument, Arizona, by 
-Dama Margaret Smith
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org.  If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-Title: Petrified Forest National Monument, Arizona
-
-Author: Dama Margaret Smith
-
-Release Date: January 15, 2016 [EBook #50932]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: ASCII
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PETRIFIED FOREST NATIONAL MONUMENT ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online
-Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
-
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-
-
-
-
-                           _PETRIFIED FOREST
-                      National Monument, Arizona_
-
-
-                          Cover Illustration:
- _This is "Old Faithful". Just at the top of the hill it lies in stark
-                               grandeur._
-
-                 _DESCRIPTIVE--HISTORICAL--ILLUSTRATED_
-
-                                  _By
-                          DAMA MARGARET SMITH_
-
-                             COPYRIGHT 1930
-
-
-
-
-              Petrified Forest National Monument, Arizona
-
-
-                        _By Dama Margaret Smith_
-
-
-
-
-                          The Petrified Forest
-
-
-In Arizona, that land of mystic beauties and many wonders, lies a great
-tract of land that, once upon a time, was covered with waters of the
-sea. How many centuries ago the ocean waves sparkled and rippled over
-what is now the desert, no one can definitely say. But from the nature
-of the stratum is which great logs are embedded, and the fossilized
-reptiles found, it is known that they were entombed during the Triassic
-age, many millions of years ago.
-
-Petrified logs are found over a wide area, more than a hundred square
-miles being covered with varying amounts of the "stone" trees. This
-fossilized "forest" is greater in area, more highly colored, and
-contains more petrified wood than any like deposit in the world.
-
-Many visitors who have heard of the "forest" drive through miles of the
-Reservation and ask at the Museum where they can find the Petrified
-Forest. Inquiry discloses that they expected to find an area of standing
-trees, trunks merely turned to stone, branches and all. Perhaps they
-have seen one or more such trunks in Yellowstone National Park and think
-to find hundreds of them here. Yet, when they learn the story of these
-fallen monarchs, and catch a glimpse of the dazzling beauties of agate
-and carnelian, jasper and onyx, no signs of disappointment are seen. Let
-the visitor but leave his car to view the logs, and step by step he is
-led on by here a gleaming fragment of carnelian, and there the soft
-sheen of jasper and topaz. It is like the carpet of Fairyland.
-
-These trees did not grow where they lie, or even within many miles of
-where they are found. They were carried from a long distance to this
-region by flood waters, and after whirling and drifting around in the
-inland sea then covering the land, they became waterlogged and finally
-sank to the bottom, where some eddy or whirlpool carried them. Here they
-lay for countless centuries, slowly being covered by silt and sand,
-while yet other logs came to rest above them. Thousands of years elapsed
-during this drifting and sinking into oblivion under the ooze of this
-Triassic Sea. And then came Old Ocean, later on in the Mesozoic Age
-submerging the entire region and adding its weight to the terrific
-pressure already brought to bear on the burial place of the giants. This
-pressure packed the sands to stone, and compressed the clays to shale.
-Already the logs were impregnated with a strong solution of silica, with
-iron and manganese also present, and the pressure forced it into every
-fiber. Atom by atom the cells of the wood were dissolved and replaced by
-the silica, which hardened, taking the exact shape of the cell it
-destroyed. While the logs were probably partly petrified before the
-influx of the ocean waters, a great many show that enormous pressure was
-brought to bear while they were yet flexible.
-
-Some logs recently brought to light by the summer floods, are mashed
-almost flat, cross sections measuring eighteen inches one way and more
-than five feet the other.
-
-    [Illustration: Courtesy National Park Service
-
-            Cross section of log showing natural fracture.]
-
-Nature did not slight details in this work of substitution. Even to the
-most minute particular the structure of the wood was replaced by the
-intruder. Under the microscope it is possible to identify the kind of
-wood represented. Dr. F. H. Knowlton has classified the major portion of
-these trees as belonging to a species of conebearing tree now extinct,
-related to the Norfolk Island Pine.
-
-The logs lay buried for numberless centuries, but natural forces were at
-work bringing them to the surface again. During the Tertiary Period, a
-slow upheaval brought the submerged area to light. On and upward it
-rose, until it now lies more than a mile above the level of the ocean.
-Freed of its Old Man of the Sea, warmed and comforted by Arizona's
-brilliant sun and searching wind, the region lay at rest.
-
-Slowly the fingers of time, tipped with wind and rain, broke through the
-heavier sandstone above, and tore away the softer layers of shale and
-marl. Bit by bit, the covering was lifted from the buried logs, and one
-by one, the gem-like wonders saw the light of day. And what a glorious
-resurrection it was! As the support was plucked from about them, they
-left their sleeping places in the sandstone and marl and rolled to the
-levels below. Frost tore at their vitals; rain fell into the crevices
-and freezing there, expanded, until many of the finer logs are now
-merely heaps of gleaming jewels, opaline and rose, lavendar and mauve,
-deepest brown and softest yellow, black and purple, blue and red. In
-their range of color they leave the beauty lover breathless. And these
-colors are permanent, too, having endured through the aeons.
-
-    [Illustration: Courtesy Mrs. Adam Hanna
-
-The most noted tree in the whole reservation. The Natural Bridge. About
- four feet in thickness this 111 foot log measures 44 feet between the
-                         sides of the arroyo.]
-
-
-
-
-                            How? When? Why?
-
-
-"How did it happen?"
-
-That is usually the first question asked of the rangers in the Petrified
-Forest.
-
-In contact with eighty thousands or more tourists each year, there are
-certain questions asked so many times that one learns what the average
-person is most curious about in connection with these petrified trees.
-Here are the most popular of these questions, together with the answers,
-shorn of technical terms:
-
-Why are none of the trees standing?
-
-This is simply an exposed deposit of petrified logs that came here from
-a distance, as driftwood.
-
-How were they brought here?
-
-Probably by rivers in flood periods. This region might have been the
-mouth of a large river as is indicated by the crossbedded sandstone.
-
-Why are they piled up in particular spots?
-
-This was at one time an inland sea. The trees floated here, and were
-swept by whirlpools or strong currents into eddys where they became
-waterlogged and sank.
-
-How long ago was that?
-
-Men who have made a lifetime study of it, say it was from ten to forty
-million years ago.
-
-What became of the sea that was here?
-
-Gradual upheaval of the country, aided by earthquakes and volcanic
-action, raised this area and drained it. The Sierras were probably
-brought to their present height during these disturbances.
-
-What kind of trees are they?
-
-Mostly an extinct species of cone bearing tree. (_Araucarioxylon
-Arizonicum._)
-
-How big were these trees?
-
-Some of them are now a hundred feet long, and six to eight feet in
-diameter. The Natural Bridge is one hundred and eleven feet long. The
-height of some of these trees while standing was doubtless two hundred
-feet or more.
-
-Why did they turn to rock?
-
-They did not really turn to stone. Silica and minerals in solution were
-forced into the wood, dissolved it, and replaced the wood cells with
-their own substance.
-
-How is it polished?
-
-By a process of grinding with carborundum and diamond dust, then rubbed
-with leather buffer. It approaches the diamond in hardness and an
-ordinary emery wheel will scarcely mark it.
-
-What is the weight of the petrified wood?
-
-About 200 pounds to the cubic foot. It varies.
-
-Why can't visitors take specimens away with them?
-
-First: Because it is against the United States Law. After that comes
-consideration of future visitors to the Petrified Forest National
-Monument. When one reflects that there are about eighty thousand
-visitors here annually and that if each visitor took what pleased him,
-it is an unrefutable fact the best specimens would speedily disappear. A
-visitor would not be satisfied with one small piece. There would be the
-home folks to consider; the neighbor that fed the left-at-home cat, and
-the friend who loaned his kodak for the trip. These would all need
-souvenirs. It would be difficult to choose among several beautiful
-pieces and so a compromise would be made by taking all of them.
-
-    [Illustration: Courtesy National Park Service
-
-  They leave their sleeping places in the sides of the marl hills and
-                         roll to levels below.]
-
-What is a National Monument?
-
-An area set aside by the President of the United States to preserve
-regions of scientific, historic or prehistoric interest.
-
-What is the area of the Petrified Forest National Monument?
-
-25,908 acres.
-
-Who has charge of it?
-
-The National Park Service, one of the largest and the most important
-bureaus of the Department of the Interior. A custodian and several Park
-Rangers are the immediate representatives of the Government on the
-Reservation.
-
-    [Illustration: Courtesy National Park Service
-
-As the soil slowly settles beneath these giants their weight dismembers
-  them. In this way they were broken in the lengths we find them now.]
-
-
-
-
-                     The Rainbow and Third Forests
-
-
-The Rainbow Forest lies eighteen miles east of Holbrook on U. S. Highway
-70, the Holbrook-Springerville Road, open and in splendid condition the
-year around. This Rainbow Forest area contains a greater amount of
-highly colored petrified wood, than any of the other "forests" included
-in the Reservation.
-
-The varied and decided coloring of the logs, many of which are broken
-into minute chips, is so gorgeous that it has been given this name. The
-outstanding features of the Rainbow Forest are the logs themselves,
-which may be seen in all stages of preservation, some not entirely
-uncovered, some lying on the sides of the marl hills waiting their time
-to be let down by erosion, to the levels below, some almost at the top
-of the sandstone cap, and others in fragments at the bottoms of ravines;
-the Government Museum, which is free to the public, located half a mile
-from the highway. In this building the Government has collected
-outstanding specimens of wood from all sections of the Reservation.
-These representative specimens, both polished and unpolished form an
-interesting exhibit. Here too, are Indian relics found in the
-prehistoric ruins scattered throughout the area. Many of the sections of
-wood here surpass the very finest Italian marble both in coloring and
-composition. One huge section of a log, weighing a ton, holds all the
-colors of the rainbow and the intermediate tints. One may trace woodland
-scenes, Japanese landscapes, city skylines, outlines of animals and
-trees in the polished surface of this tree. This specimen was shipped to
-Denver and polished there, and required many days of grinding with
-carborundum and diamond dust. No visitor fails to admire it. Another
-exhibit which evokes admiration is a globe about eight inches in
-diameter, which was turned and polished in Germany. It was originally a
-big knot or burl and shows swirls of color like a child's agate marble.
-
-    [Illustration: Courtesy National Park Service
-
- Showing work of erosion. This log is becoming slowly undermined by the
-                      action of the small stream.]
-
-In this Museum are fragments of wood bearing at their clusters of topaz
-crystals, black crystals and beautiful purple amethysts. Various
-explanations have been advanced as to why these gemlike formations are
-found in the wood. One authority says cavities in the logs caused by
-decay, are filled by mineral crystals, there being no wood fiber to
-absorb. Other geologists offer the theory that the resin and sap forced
-to the center formed into tangible shape by being crystalized. Be that
-as it may, the semi-precious stones were very much sought after, and a
-great jewelry concern in the East had a crew of men working in these
-"forests" blasting the precious work of nature to pieces in search of
-the jewels.
-
-Of course this vandalism ceased abruptly when in 1906 President
-Roosevelt issued the proclamation which made this Reservation a National
-Monument.
-
-In the Museum is a register, in which all visitors are expected to sign
-their names. In this book are found names from practically every
-civilized nation in the world.
-
-In this Rainbow Forest is found one of the best preserved trees with the
-stump, that has been discovered. It is to the Petrified Forest what the
-Old Faithful Geyser is to Yellowstone Park. It is the tourists' friend.
-This log is the favorite picture place in the entire Reservation. Here
-parties stop their car and visit the fallen monarch. Almost any hour of
-the day in pleasant weather, one can see little children playing on this
-big log. Here they lunch and rest, and here they pose for their
-photographs. The old fellow must have many happy memories collected
-through the ages. It lies in the sunlight at the brow of the hill, as
-one drops down to the Museum. Most probably before this log was broken
-into sections, it measured well over two hundred feet. It is now about
-fifty feet long, and at its thickest portion, measures six feet through.
-The great stump still remains as it was when some terrific storm,
-millions of years ago, uprooted it in its native forest. We call it "Old
-Faithful."
-
-A mile or two east of the Museum is the Third Forest. Here is a tangible
-sign that our far-removed forefathers admired the utility of the
-petrified wood, if they did not appreciate its beauty.
-
-The ruins of quite a castle stand on the crest of a hill overlooking the
-plains, and one can almost visualize the first dwellers in this mystic
-land. See them laboriously carrying the heavy blocks of petrified wood
-to the top of the hill where they are laid out in orderly rows to form
-rooms. In the meantime, a close watch is kept that neither animal nor
-human enemy may creep up unheeded. The walls have fallen during the
-passage of time, but each foundation can be traced. Shards of broken
-pottery in great amounts lie at the base of the hill. We wonder if some
-angry housewife fired it out at her better half as he stumbled home from
-a prehistoric lodge room too late to please her?
-
-Here, too, are found the workshops of arrowmakers. Chips, flaked thin as
-wafers, lie like bits of rainbows about the place, and show that they
-were broken from larger pieces by human agencies. This, we think, was
-done by heating the rock wood to a high temperature and then touching,
-lightly, the spot to be chipped with a feather dipped in water.
-
-
-
-
-                           The Second Forest
-
-
-Leaving the Headquarters area, where the Museum is located, the visitor
-drives over a winding road, beautiful in its arid desert beauty, six or
-seven miles to reach the Second Forest. Were it my privilege to name
-this lovely section I should call it "The Coral Garden". In this
-"forest" are many logs encrusted with coral formation. Some of them have
-broken apart and even the interiors are mossed with the coral, soft rose
-in color. The ground is covered with tiny round stones, coral colored.
-Here many logs are filled with crystals and the range of coloring found
-in the chips strewn over the landscape is marvelous. Many pebbles bear
-the impression of seashells, and deep in the heart of a section of
-petrified log was found a fossilized mussel.
-
-    [Illustration: Courtesy National Park Service
-
- At one place in the First Forest a slender column of rock rises to the
-        height of thirty or forty feet. This is the Eagle Rock.]
-
-There is little of the sandstone cap in this area, and the logs lie in
-the blue-gray marl formation. Here we find larger trees in greater
-masses than elsewhere. Many of the trees lie piled on top of others in
-the coulees and small arroyos, carved out by wind and rain, during the
-centuries since these logs first settled there. One big tree, near the
-road, is mashed flat its entire length of perhaps ninety feet. Evidences
-of bark are plain on this particular log, and where the limbs were torn
-off, the grain of the wood is quite discernible. One could spend hours
-in this area, spellbound with the beautiful sight.
-
-
-
-
-                           The Natural Bridge
-
-
-About eight miles from Headquarters, and three miles from the Second
-Forest, is the most noted tree in the Monument, the Natural Bridge. This
-sleeping giant lies where it was abandoned as a plaything by the waters
-that carried it here. Each end is firmly embedded in the sandstone rock,
-which was formerly the sand at the bottom of the sea. In the process of
-erosion, which finally carried away all of the material above this log,
-it ultimately came to lie on the surface of the ground. As the land
-rises somewhat to the south of it, water gathered there with the big log
-forming a natural dam. This water tended to soften the sandstone, and
-after a period of time it forced its way through under the log. Soon
-this became a free passage for the water, and resulted in the formation
-of the gorge which the prostrate trunk spans today.
-
-The Natural Bridge log is about four feet in thickness at the largest
-point in sight. Part of the log is still encrusted with the sandstone
-which wrapped it about, before wind and rain unshrouded it. The canyon
-is twenty-five feet deep, and this one hundred and eleven foot log
-measures forty-four feet between the points at which it rests on the
-sides of the arroyo.
-
-From the canyon beneath it, cedar, juniper and cottonwood trees have
-sprung to life and grown up to furnish shade for this comrade of another
-Age. They must seem mere upstarts to this old veteran!
-
-A hundred yards or so to the east, down over the rim of the mesa, is
-another freak of erosion, called the Pedestal Log. It is a large
-section, resting upon a support of sandstone, ten or fifteen feet above
-the level of the surrounding plain. It forms a protective cap which has
-kept the softer material immediately under it from washing away.
-
-
-
-
-                            The First Forest
-
-
-Here, again, were I choosing a suitable name for this portion of the
-Reservation I should not hesitate to call it "The Vandal's Paradise". It
-has been badly denuded of its finest specimens, and the big trees
-demolished by vandals. Here the despoiler has had full sway. Great trees
-are blown to atoms by searchers for the semi-precious jewels. Choice
-specimens have been hauled away by the carload. There was no law, other
-than one's own individual decency to protect these jeweled timbers lying
-near Adamana, which for years was the nearest railroad station and the
-only entrance to the Reservation. This "forest" is located five miles
-south of Adamana, and is about half a mile from the Natural Bridge. It
-is composed of trees, which are geologically speaking, "all out of
-place". That means they have all, by the work of erosion, been let down
-from higher levels. They are badly shattered, but, nevertheless
-beautiful, on account of the vivid coloring found in the fragments.
-Another feature of this area is the carving of the rocks into beautiful
-and fantastic shapes by the elements. At one place a slender column of
-sandstone rises to the height of twenty-five or thirty feet, and
-broadens at the top into a platform perhaps ten feet across. Here, for
-years, an eagle has nested, and the rock bears the official name of
-"Eagle Rock." Quite close to this rock is the "Snow Lady", a statuesque
-pillar against the background of an imposing cliff.
-
-After an extended visit in 1889, Prof. Lester F. Ward, an eminent
-paleobotanist, on the staff of the United States Geological Survey,
-recommended that this area be made a National Park, or Reservation, in
-order to preserve it from destruction and oblivion. Local leaders
-brought pressure to bear upon their representatives in Washington, and
-at least one of Holbrook's leading men, Mr. W. H. Clark, made a trip to
-Washington in the interest of preserving the Petrified Forest. He saw
-President Roosevelt in person and for half an hour talked with him
-concerning the reasons no action had been taken by Congress to protect
-the Forest. He left with the President's assurance that something would
-be done. This something was a proclamation by President Roosevelt on
-December 8, 1906, declaring the area to be a National Monument.
-
-
-
-
-                          Prehistoric Dwellers
-
-
-Throughout Arizona can be found traces of a vanished people. In and
-around the Petrified Forest, prehistoric dwellings and "picture
-writings" are plentiful, and of great antiquity and high development.
-Probably nowhere have such pictographs been so well preserved. The soft
-smooth sandstone was an ideal surface for the artist to work upon, and
-nowhere in the world, in that age, could such suitable tools be found to
-work with. Here at hand were sharp pointed chisels already prepared by
-the fracturing of wood. These chisels were hard enough to cut glass.
-Rounded pieces of the same material made excellent mallets. Hundreds of
-these have been found in the Reservation. With these rude instruments,
-this unknown people left for us a record of their existence graven deep
-in the sandstone in sheltered places. These pictures today are a lasting
-monument to the race that roamed this region in the gone-by centuries.
-
-These sketches depict different kinds of animals, such as antelope and
-mountain sheep, snakes and turtles. They are grotesque and out of
-proportion, but doubtless they represent, for the most part, animals
-that formerly roamed the western plains. Some pictures, however,
-represent animals that could never have been seen on land and sea, and
-existed only in the fevered imagination of the artist. Perhaps there
-were futurist artists even among those primitive men.
-
-In one scene a herd of deer cross a plain. Near that a stork stands on
-attenuated legs and dangles what appears to be a baby in its bill. This
-is doubtless the earliest picturization of a stork's visit. In another
-place a long line of human figures clasp their hands and drag one
-another up a steep incline. In the heart of the Reservation lies a mesa
-almost entirely surrounded by a steep cliff that has broken and fallen
-in ruins. On the huge boulders that have rolled to the desert below,
-there are pages and pages of history could one but read what is so
-plainly written. One figure stands alone disconsolately weeping. Quite
-monstrous tears are falling from his eyes, and just beneath his weeping
-figure a six inch bowl was found. Although broken in half by the passage
-of time with its destructive elements the piece of pottery, at least two
-thousand years old, was carefully restored and has an honored place in
-the Government Museum.
-
-    [Illustration: Courtesy C. J. Smith
-
- Graven deep into the stone in sheltered places thousands of years ago,
-  these pictures are a lasting monument to the people who roamed this
-                   region in the gone-by centuries.]
-
-On almost every mesa are the remains of ancient dwellings. There are
-arrowmaker's chips and fragments of pottery, and crude colored beads
-that may have delighted some wee maiden with their brilliance. The
-pottery shows two distinct varieties, the finger-nail decorations
-covering the blackened bowls which seem to have served as cooking
-utensils, and the finer pottery, on which the black and white tracings
-are as startlingly vivid today, as they were so many, many centuries ago
-when they were drawn by the day-dreaming housewife as she sat in the sun
-and painted the fanciful designs.
-
-
-
-
-                               Historical
-
-
-By virtue of the Gadsden Purchase, at the close of the Mexican War, what
-is now Arizona came into possession of the United States. At this date,
-1848, there was no record of the Petrified Forest ever having been seen
-by white men. In 1853 Lieut. Whipple, engaged in surveying a railroad
-route to the Pacific, discovered the deposits lying to the north of the
-present Reservation. He did not, however, discover the deposits of
-petrified wood south of Adamana, and there is no definite record of just
-when, and by whom, these "forests" were first seen. John Muir claims to
-have discovered the Blue Forest.
-
-An Indian legend tells that one of their Goddesses wandered into the
-place which is now the Petrified Forest. She was hungry, cold and
-exhausted. When she saw the hundreds of logs lying around she was
-delighted and managed to kill a rabbit with a club, expecting to have a
-delicious supper. When she attempted to kindle a fire to cook her kill,
-the logs were wet and would not burn. In anger and her disappointment,
-she cursed the spot and turned the logs into stone that they might never
-burn.
-
-As travel became more plentiful over the Santa Fe Railroad and across
-country, great amounts of the fossilized wood were carried away or
-destroyed, and the people of the Territory became alarmed about their
-unprotected treasure. In 1895 the assembly sent this Memorial to
-Congress.
-
-
-                           House Memorial No. 4
-
-TO THE SENATE AND HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES OF THE UNITED STATES OF
-AMERICA IN CONGRESS ASSEMBLED:
-
-We, your memorialists, the eighteenth legislative assembly of Arizona,
-beg leave to represent to your honorable bodies:
-
-FIRST: That there is in the northern part of this Territory, lying
-within the borders of Apache County, near the Town of Holbrook, a
-wonderful deposit of petrified wood commonly called the "Petrified
-Forest" or "Chalcedony Park". This deposit, or forest, is unequalled for
-its extent, the size of the trees and the beauty and great variety of
-coloring found in the logs.
-
-The country ten miles square is covered by the trunks of trees, some of
-which measure over two hundred feet in length and from seven to ten feet
-in diameter.
-
-Ruthless curiosity seekers are destroying these huge trees and logs by
-blasting them in pieces in search of crystals, which are found in the
-center of many of them, while carloads of the limbs and smaller pieces
-are being shipped away to be ground up for various purposes.
-
-SECOND: Believing that this wonderful deposit should be kept inviolate,
-that future generations may enjoy its beauties and study one of the most
-curious and interesting effects of nature's forces,
-
-We, your memorialists, most respectfully request that the Commissioner
-of the General Land Office be directed to withdraw from entry all public
-lands covered by this forest until a Commission, or officer appointed by
-your honorable body, may investigate and report to you upon the
-advisability of taking this forest under the charge of the General
-Government and making a National Park or Reservation of it. * * *
-
-                                                J. H. Carpenter, SPEAKER
-                                                  A. J. Doran, PRESIDENT
-
-Filed in the office of the Secretary of the Territory of Arizona this
-11th day of February A. D. 1895, at 11 a. m.
-
-This appeal was effective and Congress appointed Prof. Lester F. Ward to
-visit the Petrified Forest and make a report. The report was favorable
-to preservation, and acting with his usual promptness, President
-Theodore Roosevelt issued the proclamation which created the Petrified
-Forest National Monument.
-
-    [Illustration: Photo by C. J. Smith
-
-  The surrounding country has washed away in the passing of years and
-leaves this mammoth cross section thirty feet or more above the plain.]
-
-This proclamation, in part, follows:
-
-  BY THE PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, A PROCLAMATION.
-
-  WHEREAS, it is provided by section two of the Act of Congress,
-  approved June 8, 1906, entitled, "AN ACT FOR THE PRESERVATION OF
-  AMERICAN ANTIQUITIES", "THAT THE PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES IS
-  HEREBY AUTHORIZED, IN HIS DISCRETION, TO DECLARE BY PUBLIC
-  PROCLAMATION HISTORIC LANDMARKS, HISTORIC AND PREHISTORIC STRUCTURES,
-  AND OTHER OBJECTS OF HISTORIC OR SCIENTIFIC INTEREST TO BE NATIONAL
-  MONUMENTS * * *
-
-  And, whereas the mineralized remains of Mesozoic forests, commonly
-  known as the "Petrified Forest", in the Territory of Arizona, situated
-  upon the public lands owned and controlled by the United States, are
-  of the greatest scientific interest and value, and it appears that the
-  public good would be promoted by reserving these deposits of
-  fossilized wood as a national monument with as much land as may seem
-  necessary for the proper protection thereof;
-
-  Now, therefore, I, Theodore Roosevelt, President of the United States
-  of America, by virtue of the power in me vested by section two of the
-  aforesaid Act of Congress, do hereby set aside as the Petrified Forest
-  National Monument * * *
-
-  Warning is hereby expressly given to all unauthorized persons not to
-  appropriate, excavate, injure, or destroy any of the mineralized
-  forest remains hereby declared to be a National Monument or to locate
-  or settle upon any of the lands reserved and made a part of said
-  Monument by this proclamation.
-
-  In witness whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and caused the Seal of
-  the United States to be affixed.
-
-  Done at the city of Washington, this 8th day of December, in the year
-  of our Lord one thousand nine hundred and six and the Independence of
-  the United States the one hundred and thirty-first.
-
-                                                     THEODORE ROOSEVELT.
-
-In 1911, President Taft made a new proclamation reducing the extent of
-the Petrified Forest National Monument to its present size of 25,908
-acres.
-
-
-
-
-                            The Blue Forest
-
-
-While the Blue Forest was included in the National Monument originally
-it is now several miles outside the present boundary. It is from this
-section that much of the wood used commercially is obtained. Many find
-this weird formation the most interesting spot in the entire country.
-Miles and more miles of blue-gray mounds, varying in size, formed of the
-crumbling marl have been beaten and blown into a semblance of numberless
-haystacks. It is arduous climbing to reach the top of this Blue Forest,
-but the view obtained is well worth the skinned knees and twisted ankles
-produced by rolling shale. From the highest elevation there is a view
-that beggars description. One cannot put into words his feeling of
-desolation, of helplessness, that comes in looking over the formation.
-Vanishing in the distance the mounds lie in rows that grow gradually
-smaller and smaller until they melt into the level landscape below. On
-the tops of these cold, blue mounds great trees lie prone, many of them
-shattered and cascading their jeweled hearts down the slope....
-
-Here great piles of splintered, colorless wood are found, looking as if
-the chopper had just left the scene of his labors, the chips of his
-day's work lying scattered about. Again, a big tree broken open by the
-frost, or other agencies, discloses a lining of gleaming crystals,
-glittering and sparkling in the Arizona sun. Here the great dinosaur
-lived and died, and from his tomb fossil bones have been carried to
-universities far and wide. Here the phytosaurus and the stegosaurus
-breathed their last, and from here was taken the wicked looking upper
-jaw of a phytosaurus which had weathered the ravages of time and
-elements. This lies in a glass case in the store at Headquarters, where
-all may see it and be thankful such creatures roam this region no
-longer.
-
-Here, the rattlesnake lies coiled in the shade of the sombre hued cones,
-and scarcely troubles to sound his warning when visitors intrude.
-Overhead a tireless buzzard hangs suspended. No other signs of life are
-seen in this dead gray waste, the burial plot of the Dark Ages.
-
-
-
-
-                           The Painted Desert
-
-
-Many of the Petrified Forest visitors are intensely interested in the
-Painted Desert, lying only a few miles from Adamana. On U. S. Highway
-66, six miles from the Rio Puerco, one comes to a sign: "Painted Desert
-Inn". A mile from the highway this inn is stationed. But before reaching
-the building, an abrupt climb brings one to the top of the mesa, and
-spread out before the eyes is the world's most magnificent palette, with
-the colors ready mixed,--The Painted Desert. It is a breath-taking
-vision that bursts on one's sight, this "El Pintado Desierto" that
-Coronado stumbled upon and named in 1540. As far as one can see colors
-mingle and glow. From the most delicate lavendar to the deepest purple,
-from palest pink to flaming red, greens, browns, chocolate and blues,
-all the colors are here. This desert does not lie in level sandy
-stretches, but is formed of mounds and hills, and varying sizes of
-"haystacks".
-
-With each hour, as the light changes in the sky, so change the colors of
-this wonderland. It is truly the foot of the rainbow. Walk down the
-trail and there is the bewildered feeling that one has strayed into an
-immense paint factory which has just been badly wrecked! The sand
-underfoot is light, almost like burnt earth, but the colors are there,
-mixed by the Super Artist.
-
-This Painted Desert is a fitting frame for the Petrified Forest.
-
-
-
-
-                   How To Reach The Petrified Forest
-
-
-The Petrified Forest is one of the most popular and accessible units of
-the National Park Service, open every day in the year. Westbound
-tourists traveling by automobile may choose between two great
-continental highways that will lead directly to the "Forest".
-
-U. S. Highway No. 66 passes on the north and tourists may enter the
-Forest either from Adamana or Holbrook. This highway brings the traveler
-by the famous Painted Desert.
-
-U. S. Highway No. 70 on the Carlsbad-Petrified Forest-Grand Canyon
-Route, winds through the foothills of the White Mountains by way of
-Springerville, and passes through one of the most interesting sections
-of the Petrified Forest.
-
-Eastbound tourists enter the Forest from Holbrook where Highways No. 66
-and 70 meet.
-
-The Santa Fe railroad, carrying The Chief, The Navajo, The California
-Limited and the Grand Canyon Limited runs through Holbrook and Winslow.
-Either east or west bound travelers on any of these trains may obtain a
-twenty-four hour stopover. "La Posada" at Winslow combines all the
-romance and fascination of the old Spanish regime with the most modern
-conveniences for the comfort of those wishing to make it their home
-while visiting surrounding attractions. From this hotel, the well known
-Harveycar Motor Coaches, each with its charming girl courier, conveys
-guests to the Petrified Forest.
-
-For those wishing to visit the Forest and resume their journey the same
-day, arrangements have been made to meet eastbound Navajo No. 2, at
-Winslow, take the guest to "La Posada" for breakfast, drive from there
-to the Petrified Forest, where the most interesting points, including
-the Museum, are visited, and then rejoin the train at Holbrook. The
-program is reversed with west bound tourists on Navajo No. 9. The
-coaches meeting the train at Holbrook make the "Petrified Forest Detour"
-and drive to Winslow for luncheon at the hotel, resuming train travel
-there. This trip affords a convenient and inexpensive means of seeing
-the "Forest" and is a pleasant interruption of a long train journey. Any
-tourist agency or Santa Fe ticket office can furnish additional
-information.
-
-Rainbow Lodge, near the Museum at Headquarters of Petrified Forest, is
-prepared to accommodate overnight visitors. New rock cabins and food
-supplies are available.
-
-A public camp ground is provided by the Government.
-
-    [Illustration: View of the Painted Desert, near Holbrook.]
-
-
-                             PRICE 25 CENTS
-                  _Postpaid Anywhere in United States_
-
-                          DAMA MARGARET SMITH
-                           Holbrook, Arizona
-
-                                PRESS OF
-                           WINSLOW DAILY MAIL
-                            WINSLOW, ARIZONA
-
-
-
-
-                          Transcriber's Notes
-
-
---Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook
-  is public-domain in the country of publication.
-
---Silently corrected a few palpable typos.
-
---In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by
-  _underscores_.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Petrified Forest National Monument,
-Arizona, by Dama Margaret Smith
-
-*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PETRIFIED FOREST NATIONAL MONUMENT ***
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