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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Geneva, by Francis Gribble
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-
-
-Title: Geneva
- Painted by J. Hardwicke Lewis & May Hardwicke Lewis.
- Described by Francis Gribble.
-
-Author: Francis Gribble
-
-Release Date: December 21, 2015 [EBook #50738]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GENEVA ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Shaun Pinder, Charlie Howard, and the Online
-Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
-file was produced from images generously made available
-by The Internet Archive)
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-Transcriber’s Note: Boldface is indicated by =equals signs=, italics by
-_underscores_.
-
-
-
-
-GENEVA
-
-
-
-
-OTHER BOOKS ON SWITZERLAND
-
-
-THE ALPS
-
- PAINTED BY A. D. M’CORMICK
- DESCRIBED BY SIR MARTIN CONWAY
-
- Containing 62 full-page Illustrations in Colour
-
- =Price 20/- net=
- (_Post free, price 20/6_)
-
-
-MONTREUX
-
- PAINTED BY J. HARDWICKE LEWIS AND
- MAY HARDWICKE LEWIS
- DESCRIBED BY FRANCIS H. GRIBBLE
-
- Containing 20 full-page Illustrations in Colour and a
- Sketch-Map
-
- =Price 7/6 net=
- (_Post free, price 7/11_)
-
-
-OUR LIFE IN THE SWISS HIGHLANDS
-
- BY JOHN ADDINGTON SYMONDS
- AND HIS DAUGHTER MARGARET
-
- With 16 full-page Illustrations in Colour by
- J. HARDWICKE LEWIS
-
- =Price 7/6 net=
- (_Post free, price 7/11_)
-
-
-THE UPPER ENGADINE
-
- PAINTED BY J. HARDWICKE LEWIS
- DESCRIBED BY S. C. MUSSON
-
- Containing 20 full-page Illustrations in Colour
-
- =Price 6/- net=
- (_Post free, price 6/4_)
-
-
-A. AND C. BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: SUNSET ON MONT BLANC FROM ABOVE GENEVA]
-
-
-
-
- GENEVA
-
- PAINTED BY
- J. HARDWICKE LEWIS &
- MAY HARDWICKE LEWIS
- DESCRIBED BY
- FRANCIS GRIBBLE
-
- [Illustration]
-
- LONDON
- ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK
- 1908
-
-
-
-
-Contents
-
-
- CHAPTER I
- PAGE
- OLD GENEVA 1
-
-
- CHAPTER II
-
- THE WAR OF INDEPENDENCE 9
-
-
- CHAPTER III
-
- THE REFORMATION 13
-
-
- CHAPTER IV
-
- THE EXPULSION OF THE NUNS 17
-
-
- CHAPTER V
-
- THE RULE OF CALVIN 23
-
-
- CHAPTER VI
-
- THE TRIUMPH OF THE THEOCRACY 29
-
-
- CHAPTER VII
-
- THE UNIVERSITY 33
-
-
- CHAPTER VIII
-
- PROFESSOR ANDREW MELVILL 39
-
-
- CHAPTER IX
-
- THÉODORE DE BÈZE 43
-
-
- CHAPTER X
-
- WAR WITH SAVOY 51
-
-
- CHAPTER XI
-
- THE ESCALADE 53
-
-
- CHAPTER XII
-
- AN INTERVAL OF QUIET 61
-
-
- CHAPTER XIII
-
- REVOLUTIONS 65
-
-
- CHAPTER XIV
-
- LITERATURE AND SCIENCE 71
-
-
- CHAPTER XV
-
- SAUSSURE 77
-
-
- CHAPTER XVI
-
- MEN OF LETTERS 89
-
-
- CHAPTER XVII
-
- SONGS AND SQUIBS 93
-
-
- CHAPTER XVIII
-
- RELIGIOUS REVIVAL 95
-
-
- CHAPTER XIX
-
- ROMANTICISM 99
-
-
- CHAPTER XX
-
- LATER MEN OF LETTERS 105
-
-
- CHAPTER XXI
-
- VOLTAIRE 107
-
-
- CHAPTER XXII
-
- VOLTAIRE AND THE THEATRE 111
-
-
- CHAPTER XXIII
-
- VISITORS TO FERNEY 119
-
-
- CHAPTER XXIV
-
- COPPET 123
-
-
-
-
-List of Illustrations
-
-
- 1. Sunset on Mont Blanc from above Geneva. J. H. L. _Frontispiece_
-
- FACING PAGE
- 2. L’Église de la Madeleine, Geneva. M. H. L. 6
-
- 3. The Last Snow on the Wooded slopes. M. H. L. 10
-
- 4. Geneva from the Arve. M. H. L. 20
-
- 5. The Bay of Meillerie. J. H. L. 26
-
- 6. Evian les Bains, Hte. Savoie. M. H. L. 34
-
- 7. The Glaciers des Bossons, Chamonix. J. H. L. 38
-
- 8. Yvoire, Hte. Savoie. M. H. L. 44
-
- 9. La Roche, Hte. Savoie. J. H. L. 50
-
- 10. The Castle of Etrembières, Hte. Savoie. J. H. L. 56
-
- 11. Nyon Castle, looking across the Lake to Mont Blanc. J. H. L. 62
-
- 12. Montenvers and Aiguilles Verte and Dru. J. H. L. 68
-
- 13. The Jura Range from Thonon, Hte. Savoie. J. H. L. 74
-
- 14. The Aiguille and Dôme du Goûter, Mont Blanc. M. H. L. 80
-
- 15. The Statue of Jean Jacques Rousseau on the Island in the
- Rhone, Geneva, from Hôtel des Bergues. J. H. L. 90
-
- 16. The Head of Lake Annecy, Hte. Savoie. J. H. L. 96
-
- 17. Nernier, Hte. Savoie. M. H. L. 100
-
- 18. The Chateau de Prangins. M. H. L. 110
-
- 19. A Vaudoise: Summer. M. H. L. 120
-
- 20. The Tricoteuse: Winter. M. H. L. 128
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER I
-
-OLD GENEVA
-
-
-Towns which expand too fast and become too prosperous tend to lose
-their individuality. Geneva has enjoyed that fortune, and has paid that
-price for it.
-
-Straddling the Rhone, where it issues from the bluest lake in the
-world, looking out upon green meadows and wooded hills, backed by the
-dark ridge of the Salève, with the ‘great white mountain’ visible in
-the distance, it has the advantage of an incomparable site; and it
-is, from a town surveyor’s point of view, well built. It has wide
-thoroughfares, quays, and bridges; gorgeous public monuments and
-well-kept public gardens; handsome theatres and museums; long rows
-of palatial hotels; flourishing suburbs; two railway-stations, and a
-casino. But all this is merely the façade--all of it quite modern;
-hardly any of it more than half a century old. The real historical
-Geneva--the little of it that remains--is hidden away in the
-background, where not every tourist troubles to look for it.
-
-It is disappearing fast. Italian stonemasons are constantly engaged
-in driving lines through it. They have rebuilt, for instance, the old
-Corraterie, which is now the Regent Street of Geneva, famous for its
-confectioners’ and booksellers’ shops; they have destroyed, and are
-still destroying, other ancient slums, setting up white buildings of
-uniform ugliness in place of the picturesque but insanitary dwellings
-of the past. It is, no doubt, a very necessary reform, though one may
-think that it is being executed in too utilitarian a spirit. The old
-Geneva was malodorous, and its death-rate was high. They had more than
-one Great Plague there, and their Great Fires have always left some of
-the worst of their slums untouched. These could not be allowed to stand
-in an age which studies the science and practises the art of hygiene.
-Yet the traveller who wants to know what the old Geneva was really like
-must spend a morning or two rambling among them before they are pulled
-down.
-
-The old Geneva, like Jerusalem, was set upon a hill, and it is towards
-the top of the hill that the few buildings of historical interest are
-to be found. There is the cathedral--a striking object from a distance,
-though the interior is hideously bare. There is the Town Hall, in
-which, for the convenience of notables carried in litters, the upper
-stories were reached by an inclined plane instead of a staircase.
-There is Calvin’s old Academy, bearing more than a slight resemblance
-to certain of the smaller colleges at Oxford and Cambridge. There,
-too, are to be seen a few mural tablets, indicating the residences of
-past celebrities. In such a house Rousseau was born; in such another
-house--or in an older house, now demolished, on the same site--Calvin
-died. And towards these central points the steep and narrow, mean
-streets--in many cases streets of stairs--converge.
-
-As one plunges into these streets one seems to pass back from the
-twentieth century to the fifteenth, and need not exercise one’s
-imagination very severely in order to picture the town as it appeared
-in the old days before the Reformation. The present writer may claim
-permission to borrow his own description from the pages of ‘Lake Geneva
-and its Literary Landmarks’:
-
-‘Narrow streets predominated, though there were also a certain number
-of open spaces--notably at the markets, and in front of the Cathedral,
-where there was a traffic in those relics and rosaries which Geneva was
-presently to repudiate with virtuous indignation. One can form an idea
-of the appearance of the narrow streets by imagining the oldest houses
-that one has seen in Switzerland all closely packed together--houses at
-the most three stories high, with gabled roofs, ground-floors a step or
-two below the level of the roadway, and huge arched doors studded with
-great iron nails, and looking strong enough to resist a battering-ram.
-Above the doors, in the case of the better houses, were the painted
-escutcheons of the residents, and crests were also often blazoned
-on the window-panes. The shops, too, and more especially the inns,
-flaunted gaudy sign-boards with ingenious devices. The Good Vinegar,
-the Hot Knife, the Crowned Ox, were the names of some of these; their
-tariff is said to have been fivepence a day for man and beast.
-
-‘The streets, being narrow, were also very generally crowded, and were
-particularly crowded in the evenings. From the stuffy houses--and even
-in these days of sanitation a really old Swiss house is sometimes
-stuffy enough to make the stranger gasp for breath--the citizens of
-high as well as low degree sallied to take their pleasure in the
-street. The street was their drawing-room. They stood and gossiped
-there; they sat about on benches underneath their windows. Or some
-musician would strike up a lively tune, and ladies of the highest
-position in society--the daughters and wives of Councillors and
-Syndics--attired in velvets and silks and satins, would dance
-round-dances in the open air. For all their political anxieties, these
-early Genevans were, on the whole, a merry people.
-
-‘But--let there be no mistake about it--they made merry in the midst of
-filth and evil smells. On this point we have unimpeachable information
-in the shape of a rescript issued by the Chapter of the Cathedral after
-conference with the Vidomne and the Syndics. The Chapter complains that
-too many citizens dispose of their slops by carelessly throwing them
-out of window, and establish refuse-heaps outside their front-doors--a
-noisome practice which still prevails in many of the Swiss villages,
-though no longer in any of the Swiss towns. It is also complained
-that nearly every man has a pig-sty, and lets his pigs run loose in
-the streets for exercise, and that there is an undue prevalence of
-such unsavoury industries as the melting of tallow and the burning
-of the horns of cattle. One can imagine the net result of this great
-combination of nuisances. In a city of magnificent distances it might
-have passed. Bayswater, at the present day, lives in ignorance of the
-smells of Bermondsey. But in Geneva, when Geneva was almost as small
-as Sandwich, one can understand that the consequences were appalling
-to the nostrils of the polite. The fact that the city was so overrun
-with lepers and beggars that two lazar-houses and seven _hôpitaux_--or
-casual wards, as one might say--had to be provided for their reception,
-adds something, though not perhaps very much, to this unpleasant side
-of the picture.
-
-[Illustration: L’ÉGLISE DE LA MADELEINE, GENEVA]
-
-‘Our ecclesiastical rescript further proves that while the Genevans
-were a merry and a dirty, they were also an immoral, people. It records
-that they are unduly addicted to the game of dice, and that the outcome
-of this pastime is “fraud, deception, theft, rapine, lies, fights,
-brawls, and insults, to say nothing of damnable blasphemy”; and it
-ordains that any man who “swears without necessity” shall “take off his
-hat and kneel down in the place of his offence, and clasp his hands,
-and kiss the earth”--or pay a fine of three halfpence if he fail to do
-so. Then it proceeds to propound an elaborate scheme for the State
-regulation of immorality, forbidding certain indulgences “to clergymen
-as well as laymen”; and requiring the Social Evil to wear something in
-the nature of a Scarlet Letter to distinguish her from other women.’
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER II
-
-THE WAR OF INDEPENDENCE
-
-
-In the first half of the sixteenth century occurred the two events
-which shaped the future of Geneva: Reformation theology was accepted;
-political independence was achieved.
-
-Geneva, it should be explained, was a fief of the duchy of Savoy; or
-so, at all events, the Dukes of Savoy maintained, though the citizens
-were of the contrary opinion. Their view was that they owed allegiance
-only to their Bishops, who were the Viceroys of the Holy Roman Emperor;
-and even that allegiance was limited by the terms of a Charter granted
-in the Holy Roman Emperor’s name by Bishop Adhémar de Fabri. All
-went fairly well until the Bishops began to play into the hands of
-the Dukes; but then there was friction, which rapidly became acute.
-A revolutionary party--the Eidgenossen, or Confederates--was formed.
-There was a Declaration of Independence and a civil war.
-
-So long as the Genevans stood alone, the Duke was too strong for them.
-He marched into the town in the style of a conqueror, and wreaked his
-vengeance on as many of his enemies as he could catch. He cut off the
-head of Philibert Berthelier, to whom there stands a memorial on the
-island in the Rhone; he caused Jean Pecolat to be hung up in an absurd
-posture in his banqueting-hall, in order that he might mock at his
-discomfort while he dined; he executed, with or without preliminary
-torture, several less conspicuous patriots. Happily, however, some of
-the patriots--notably Besançon Hugues--got safely away, and succeeded
-in concluding treaties of alliance between Geneva and the cantons of
-Berne and Fribourg. The men of Fribourg marched to Geneva, and the
-Duke retired. The citizens passed a resolution that he should never
-be allowed to enter the town again, seeing that he ‘never came there
-without playing the citizens some dirty trick or other’; and, the more
-effectually to prevent him from coming, they pulled down their suburbs
-and repaired their ramparts, one member of every household being
-required to lend a hand for the purpose.
-
-[Illustration: THE LAST SNOW ON THE WOODED SLOPES]
-
-Presently, owing to religious dissensions, Fribourg withdrew from the
-alliance. Berne, however, adhered to it, and, in due course,
-responded to the appeal for help by setting an army of seven thousand
-men in motion. The route of the seven thousand lay through the canton
-of Vaud, then a portion of the Duke’s dominions, governed from the
-Castle of Chillon. Meeting with no resistance save at Yverdon, they
-annexed the territory, placing governors (or _baillis_) of their own
-in its various strongholds. The Governor of Chillon fled, leaving his
-garrison to surrender; and in its deepest dungeon was found the famous
-prisoner of Chillon, François de Bonivard. From that time forward
-Geneva was a free republic, owing allegiance to no higher power.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER III
-
-THE REFORMATION
-
-
-The Reformation occurred simultaneously with the political revolution;
-and the informal historian, who is under no compulsion to take a side,
-is inevitably impressed less by the piety of the Reformers than by
-their uproarious behaviour. Their leader--the ringleader in their
-disturbances--was Farel, a hot-headed Frenchman from Gap, in Dauphiné.
-He hounded the people on to wreck the churches; he invaded the pulpits
-of other preachers without invitation, and confuted them therefrom; he
-once broke up an ecclesiastical procession, and, snatching an image
-out of the priest’s hand, threw it over the bridge into the river.
-Moreover, as was natural, he included among his devoted followers many
-evangelists whose zeal was, like his own, conspicuously in excess of
-their discretion. Of one of them, Pastor Malingre of Yverdon, it is
-recorded by a contemporary chronicler that ‘his methods were not very
-evangelical--he used to crown the Roman Catholic priests with cow-dung.’
-
-Reform was already in the air when Farel came to Geneva to preach. The
-new doctrine had been bruited abroad by pedlars from Nuremberg, who ate
-meat on Fridays, and expressed the opinion that ‘the members of the
-religious Orders ought to be set to work in the fields, that the saints
-were dead and done for, and that it was nonsense to pray to them,
-seeing that they could render no assistance.’ So we read in Bonivard’s
-‘Chronicle’; but, even so, Geneva was not quite prepared to receive
-Farel with open arms. He was haled before an ecclesiastical court,
-and accused of preaching the Gospel in an inappropriate costume--‘got
-up like a gendarme or a brigand.’ One burly monk gave him a ‘coup de
-pied, quelque part,’ and the monks collectively proposed to throw him
-into the Rhone; and, though the laity protected him from clerical
-violence, the Syndic ordered him to quit the town within six hours, as
-an alternative to being burnt alive. He went, and three years passed
-before he returned and triumphed in a theological disputation held in
-the great hall of the Couvent de la Rive.
-
-The result of that disputation was, as has been written, that
-‘religious liberty was taken away from the Roman Catholics and given
-to the Protestants.’ The celebration of the Mass, so recently a solemn
-duty, now became a high crime and misdemeanour; and the victorious
-Reformers proceeded, like the French anti-clericals of our own day, to
-the expulsion of monks and nuns. The first to go were the Sisters of
-the Convent of Sainte-Claire, founded in 1476 by Yolande, wife of Duke
-Amadeus IX. of Savoy and sister of Louis XI. of France. We have a full
-account of their ejection from the pen of one of them, Sister Jeanne de
-Jussie, afterwards Lady Superior of a convent at Annecy.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER IV
-
-THE EXPULSIONS OF THE NUNS
-
-
-The Sisters had long been exposed to annoyance by Reformers of the
-baser sort. One such Reformer, having occasion to call at the convent
-on some municipal business, had insisted on washing his hands in the
-holy water, and had boasted, when he got outside, that he had been
-privileged to kiss the nuns all round--‘a foul lie,’ says Sister
-Jeanne, ‘for he did not even attempt to kiss any one of us.’ Another
-Reformer had preached against them, declaring that they ought to be
-‘turned out and compelled to marry in accordance with the commandment
-of God’; and the congregation had been so impressed by the discourse
-that the younger men among the worshippers had climbed up on to the
-convent wall, and sat there singing amorous songs for the edification
-of the inmates.
-
-No official action was taken, however, until after the conclusion of
-the disputation above referred to, though then it followed quickly.
-Fifteen Reformers, including Farel and Viret, called at the convent,
-declined the invitation to say what they had to say through the
-grating, but threatened to force the door if they were not admitted.
-The door was opened to them, therefore, and all the Sisters being
-summoned before them in the chapter-house, Farel ‘spoke in terms of
-vituperation of the holy cloister, of religion, of chastity, and of
-virginity, in a way that went to the hearts of the poor Sisters.’ The
-others kept silence, but Mère Vicaire protested, interrupted, and
-screamed. Our narrative proceeds:
-
-‘She stationed herself between the Sisters and the young men, saying:
-
-‘“Since your preacher is such a holy man, why don’t you treat him with
-respect and obedience? You’re a pack of young rascals, but you won’t
-make any progress here.”
-
-‘Whereat they were all indignant, and exclaimed:
-
-‘“What the devil is the matter with the woman? Are you mad? Go back to
-your place.”
-
-‘“I won’t,” she said, “until these young men leave the Sisters alone!”’
-
-So Mère Vicaire was put out of the room; and the preacher resumed his
-discourse on the institution of matrimony. We read that ‘when he
-referred to the corruption of the flesh, the Sisters began to scream’;
-and that when he spoke of the advantages of married life, the Mère
-Vicaire, who was listening at the key-hole, began to batter at the
-panels, exclaiming: ‘Don’t you listen to him, my sisters; don’t you
-listen to him.’ So, after labouring at the conversion of the Sisters
-from ten o’clock in the morning until five o’clock in the afternoon,
-the Reformers retired discomfited. A crowd of three hundred persons was
-waiting for them outside the gate, prepared to offer marriage to any
-nun whom they might have persuaded to accompany them; but they came
-forth alone, the last to leave being thumped on the back by a nun who
-desired to hurry his departure.
-
-It transpired, however, that one of the Sisters--‘the ill-advised
-Sister Blasine’--had been converted by the Reformers’ arguments.
-The other nuns tried to detain her, but the citizens broke into the
-convent and fetched her out in triumph, and also insisted that the
-convent should provide her with a dowry and pay her damages for the
-disciplinary whippings inflicted upon her during her membership of
-the Order. It was the culminating outrage. The nuns decided to leave
-Geneva, and the Lady Superior applied to the Syndic for an armed
-escort. The request was granted, and the ‘dolorous departure’ began.
-Three hundred soldiers were turned out to see the Sisters safely across
-the bridge over the Arve, where the territory of Geneva ended. It
-was the first time since their taking of the veil that they had been
-outside the convent walls, and some of them had spent all their lives
-in the cloister and grown old there, so that they were in no fit state
-to travel thus on foot. Let Sister Jeanne tell us what befell them:
-
-[Illustration: GENEVA FROM THE ARVE]
-
-‘Truly it was a pitiful thing to see this holy company in such
-condition, so overcome by pain and toil that several of them broke down
-and fainted by the way--and that on a rainy day and in a muddy road,
-and with no means of getting out of their trouble, for they were all on
-foot, except four invalids who were in a cart. There were six poor aged
-Sisters, who had been for sixteen years members of the Order, and two
-who for sixty-six years had never been outside the convent gate. The
-fresh air was too much for them. They fainted away; and when they saw
-the beasts of the fields, they were terrified, thinking that the cows
-were bears, and that the sheep were ravening wolves. Those who met them
-could not find words to express their compassion for them; and,
-though the Mère Vicaire had given each Sister a stout pair of boots to
-keep her feet dry, the greater number of them would not walk in boots,
-but carried them tied to their girdles, and in this way it took them
-from five o’clock in the morning until nearly nightfall to reach Saint
-Julien, though the distance is less than a league.’
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER V
-
-THE RULE OF CALVIN
-
-
-Stories such as those related above make it clear that rowdyism was
-likely to be the note of the Reformation at Geneva so long as Farel
-remained at the head of ecclesiastical affairs. With all his fiery
-zeal for Gospel truth, he was no better than a theological demagogue;
-and what Geneva wanted at the moment was not a demagogue, but a
-disciplinarian. Calvin supplied that need. He was a Protestant wanderer
-over the face of the earth, and he came to Geneva on his way from Italy
-to Strassburg. Farel, who had come to know his own limitations, called
-upon him in his inn, and prevailed upon him to stay and help him to
-keep order in the town, and, in particular, to help him to suppress
-certain Libertines, or Friends of Liberty, who had been protesting that
-the Reformers had no right to ‘require the citizens to attend sermons
-against their will,’ and demanding ‘liberty to live as they chose
-without reference to what was said by the preachers.’ Calvin, after
-much hesitation, consented, and so a new era began.
-
-It was not the work of a day. Calvin began energetically enough,
-admonishing Bonivard for undue familiarity with his servant-maid,
-standing a gambler in the pillory with a pack of cards hung round his
-neck, imprisoning a hairdresser for making a client look too beautiful,
-and endeavouring to throw ridicule upon conjugal infidelity by obliging
-an offender to ride round the town on a donkey. But the recalcitrants
-fought stubbornly for the right of living as they chose. The people
-who wanted to live dissolute lives allied themselves with the people
-who wanted unleavened bread to be used for the Holy Communion; and the
-coalition was powerful enough to get Calvin and Farel first forbidden
-to meddle with politics, and then ordered to leave the town within
-three days.
-
-They were no sooner gone, however, than they began to be missed. The
-disorders, rampant during their absence, became intolerable, and there
-was some danger that the Duke of Savoy might see his way to take
-advantage of them. A majority of the citizens came to the conclusion
-that strict regulations were to be preferred to insecurity, and they
-sent ambassadors to Calvin, inviting him to return, and to ‘stay
-with them for ever because of his great learning.’ He agreed to do
-so, and they voted him a small but sufficient salary, and gave him a
-strip of cloth to make him a new gown. In return, he drafted for their
-acceptance a new and original constitution, whereby the morals, and
-even the manners, of the community were placed under ecclesiastical
-supervision. That was the famous Theocracy, established in 1541, which
-seemed to John Knox to make Geneva ‘the most perfect school of Christ
-that ever was in the earth since the days of the Apostles.’ A recital
-of a few of the enactments, taken from a contemporary translation
-entitled ‘The Laws and Statutes of Geneva,’ will be the most simple
-means of presenting the picture of the social life of the town under
-the regime:
-
-
-‘THE LAWS AND STATUTES OF GENEVA.
-
-‘Item, that none shall play or run idly in the streets during the time
-of Sermons on Sundays, nor days of prayer, nor to open their shops
-during the sermon time under pain without any favour.’
-
-‘Item, that no man, of what estate, quality, or condition soever he
-be, dareth be so hardy to make, or cause to be made, or wear hosen or
-doublets, cut, jagged, embroidered, or lined with silk, upon pain to
-forfeit.’
-
-‘Item, that no Citizen, Burger, or Inhabitant of this City dareth be so
-hardy to go from henceforth to eat or drink in any Tavern.’
-
-‘Item, that none be so hardy to walk by night in the Town after nine of
-the clock, without candle-light and also a lawful cause.’
-
-‘Item, that no manner of person, of what estate, quality or condition
-soever they be, shall wear any chains of gold or silver, but those
-which have been accustomed to wear them shall put them off, and wear
-them no more upon pain of three score shillings for every time.’
-
-‘Item, that no women, of what quality or condition soever they be,
-shall wear any verdingales, gold upon her head, quoises of gold,
-billiments or such like, neither any manner of embroidery upon her
-sleeves.’
-
-[Illustration: THE BAY OF MEILLERIE]
-
-‘Item, that no manner of person, whatsoever they be, making bride-ales,
-banquets, or feasts shall have above three courses or services to the
-said feasts, and to every course or service not above four dishes, and
-yet not excessive, upon pain of three score shillings for every time,
-fruit excepted.’
-
-‘Item, that no manner of men shall go to the baths appointed for women,
-and also women not to go to those that be appointed for men.’
-
-‘Item, that no manner of person do sing any vain, dishonest or
-ribaldry songs, neither do dance, nor make masques, mummeries, or any
-disguisings in no manner or sort whatsoever it be, upon pain to be put
-three days in prison with bread and water.’
-
-‘Item, that all Hosts and Hostesses shall advertise their guests, and
-expressly forbid them not to be out of their lodging after the Trumpet
-sound to the Watch or ringing of the Bell (which is at nine of the
-clock), upon pain of the indignation of the Lords.’
-
-‘Item, that all Hosts and others shall make their prayers to God, and
-give thanks before meat and after upon pain of forty shillings and for
-every time being found or proved, and if the Hosts or Hostesses be
-found negligent and not doing it, to be punished further as the case
-requireth.’
-
-‘Item, that none do enterprise to do, say, nor contract anything out
-of this City that he dare not do or say within the same concerning the
-Law of God and Reformation of the Gospel, upon pain to be punished
-according as the case requireth.’
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER VI
-
-THE TRIUMPH OF THE THEOCRACY
-
-
-Such was the constitution in theory; and, if we want to see it at work,
-we have only to turn to the Register of the Consistory, in which we
-may read how the citizens were punished for peccadilloes. One woman,
-we find, got into trouble for saying her prayers in Latin, and another
-for wearing her hair hanging down her back. One man was punished for
-wearing baggy knickerbockers in the street; a second for offering his
-snuff-box to a friend during the sermon; a third for talking business
-to a neighbour as he was coming out of church; a fourth for calling his
-cow by the Scriptural name Rebecca; a fifth for likening the braying
-of his donkey to the chanting of a psalm. There was also the case of
-a workman whose property was confiscated because he did not relieve
-the indigence of his aged parents; of a child stood in the pillory
-and publicly whipped for throwing a stone at its mother; of a mother
-imprisoned for carelessly dropping her baby on the floor; and of a
-young lady solemnly arraigned on the charge of casting amorous glances
-at a minister of the Word.
-
-Not everybody, of course, approved of such elaborate interference with
-liberty. The Friends of Liberty resisted it as long as they could,
-and their methods of resistance were not passive. They set their dogs
-at Calvin; they openly ridiculed him; they came drunk to church and
-brawled. But Calvin was a match for them. Pierre Amaulx, who said of
-him that he ‘thought as much of himself as if he were a Bishop,’ was
-compelled to apologize, bareheaded, in public; and all those who tried,
-as Calvin put it, to ‘throw off the yoke of the Gospel’ came to a bad
-end. One of them, Raoul Monnet, was beheaded for inviting young men
-to look at indecorous pictures; and the party was ultimately broken
-up as the result of a row in the streets. They were very drunk, and
-were threatening certain of the Reformers with violence, when Syndic
-Aubert, hearing their noise, came out and faced them in his nightgown,
-carrying his staff of office in one hand and a lighted candle in the
-other. Thus attired and equipped, he placed himself at the head of the
-watch, summoned the soldiers to his aid, and put the rioters to rout.
-Some of them were killed in the scuffle; others were captured, tried,
-and executed; while the remnant escaped into the country, where, for
-a period, they eked out a precarious existence by means of highway
-robbery.
-
-From that time forward Calvin’s supremacy was undisputed. The principal
-use which he made of it was to burn Servetus; but that is a thorny
-branch of the subject into which it is better not to enter. Our modern
-Calvinists do not, indeed, hold that Servetus deserved to be burnt, but
-they do sometimes maintain that Calvin did no great harm in burning
-him. There might be some risk of putting them to confusion if the
-topic were pursued; and this is not a controversial work. We shall be
-on safer ground if we turn aside to consider Calvin’s services to the
-State as an educationist.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER VII
-
-THE UNIVERSITY
-
-
-In Old Geneva education had been neglected. Emperor Charles IV. had
-offered the citizens a University in the fourteenth century, and the
-offer had been rejected for fear, it was alleged, lest the students
-should behave uproariously. The first public school was not opened
-in the town until 1429. It lasted for about a hundred years, and
-then fell upon evil times during an epidemic of the plague. The head
-master ran away from the contagion, and the City Council ordered the
-building to be closed, on the ground that the children were knocking it
-to pieces. Then, in 1535, after the Protestants had gained the upper
-hand, the École de la Rive was established in the convent from which
-the Cordeliers had been expelled. The first head-master was Antoine
-Saulnier, a Dauphiné Reformer, and his prospectus ran as follows:
-
-‘In our school the lectures begin at five o’clock in the morning and
-continue until ten, which is our usual dinner hour. The ordinary
-curriculum consists of instruction in the three most excellent
-languages, Greek, Hebrew, and Latin, not to mention the French
-language, which, in the opinion of the learned, is by no means to be
-despised. We hope that, the Lord helping us, the time will come when we
-shall also teach rhetoric and dialectic.’
-
-[Illustration: EVIAN LES BAINS, HTE. SAVOIE]
-
-Calvin, however, wanted something better than the École de la Rive.
-He found a means, therefore, of founding a University, and placed
-Théodore de Bèze (of whom more presently) at the head of it as Rector.
-It was, at first, as Mark Pattison clearly proved in his ‘Life of
-Isaac Casaubon,’ little more than a grammar school, culminating in a
-theological college; but it soon expanded, and is still expanding.
-Nowadays, indeed, housed in commodious new buildings, it furnishes
-instruction in almost every imaginable branch of knowledge, and
-specially favours studies of a utilitarian character; but the original
-programme was confined to the humane letters, the funds for the
-maintenance of the institution being raised with difficulty, and
-by means of ingenious fiscal devices, hardly to be held up to the
-imitation of modern fiscal reformers.
-
-One device was to ear-mark for the University chest all the fines
-imposed upon law-breakers. Those who gave short measure in the market,
-and those who spoke evil of the magistrates, were alike mulcted in
-the interests of learning; the heaviest contribution was that exacted
-from a bookseller convicted of having charged an excessive price for
-a copy of the Psalms of David. A second method consisted in summoning
-all the notaries of the town before the Council, and instructing them,
-when any citizen called them in to make his will, to impress upon the
-testator the desirability of bequeathing something to the University;
-the result was a total gain of 1,074 florins, including 312 florins
-from Robert Estienne, the printer, and 5 sous from a poor woman in the
-baking business. A third contrivance was to suppress a public banquet,
-and require the cost, estimated at 100 florins, to be handed to the
-University authorities.
-
-In this way the University--such as it was--was started, with
-class-rooms for the scholars and apartments for the professors, who
-were allowed to supplement their incomes by taking boarders. Everything
-was poorly done, however, and nobody appears to have been comfortable.
-Complaints of one sort and another are recorded, in large numbers,
-in the Register of the Council. For one thing, there was no heating
-apparatus, but ‘the teachers used to keep up charcoal fires at their
-own expense, and require every pupil to pay something towards them.’
-For another thing, there was no glass in the windows, and we read that
-‘as to the request of the Principal that glass windows shall be placed
-in the class-rooms, it is decided that this shall not be done, but that
-the scholars may, if they like, fill up the apertures with paper.’ The
-teachers, too, were constantly expressing dissatisfaction with the
-accommodation provided for them. As early as 1559 we have one of them
-applying for a more commodious lodging, on the ground that ‘God has
-called him to the estate of matrimony.’ A little later we come upon
-this note:
-
-‘Claude Bridet requested permission to lodge above the Tower, where
-M. Chevalier, lecturer in Hebrew, used to live, for the sake of his
-health, and because the lower ground is damp. Decided that he must be
-satisfied with his present apartment, and that the place to which he
-refers shall be kept for someone else.’
-
-In spite of discomfort, however, hard work was the order of the
-day. A letter has been preserved from M. de Bèze, the Rector of the
-University, to the parent of a pupil, in which he says: ‘I fear
-I shall be able to make nothing of your son, for, in spite of my
-entreaties, he refuses to work more than fourteen hours a day.’ The
-ordinary curriculum did not call for quite such persistent application
-as that, but was, none the less, sufficiently severe.
-
-The day began, at 7 a.m., with prayers, roll-call, and lessons. At 8.30
-there was half an hour’s rest, during which the pupils were instructed
-to ‘eat bread, praying while they did so, without making a noise.’ From
-9 to 10 there were more lessons, terminating with more prayers; from
-10 to 11 the scholars dined; from 11 to 12 they sang psalms; from 12
-to 1 there were further lessons, inaugurated by prayer; from 1 to 2
-there was a quiet time devoted to eating, writing, and informal study;
-from 2 to 4 there was a final instalment of lessons; and at 4 there was
-punishment parade in the great college hall.
-
-The punishments were mainly corporal, and were inflicted so frequently
-that the milder professors protested. ‘The daily fustigations,’ said
-Mathurin Cordier, ‘disgust the children with the study of the humane
-letters; moreover, their skins get hardened like the donkeys’, and
-they no longer feel the stripes.’ It should be added, however, that
-the stripes were not so often inflicted for neglect of the humane
-letters as for misbehaviour in church. The children had to attend three
-services every Sunday and one every Wednesday, in addition to the
-frequent daily prayers at school. They talked and played, as children
-will, to the scandal of their elders, and they played truant whenever
-they saw a chance. It must be admitted to be an indication of imperfect
-discipline that these peccadilloes were often solemnly reviewed before
-the Town Council, instead of being summarily dealt with at a Court of
-First Instance in the head-master’s study. The Councillors, however,
-showed no sentimental tendency to spare the rod. They might fine
-offenders whom their police caught in the streets when they ought to
-have been availing themselves of the means of grace; but they also very
-generally turned them over to the scholastic authorities to be whipped.
-A typical case is that of two lads who were caught playing quoits on
-the ramparts during the hours of Divine service on a Sunday morning.
-
-[Illustration: THE GLACIERS DES BOSSONS, CHAMONIX]
-
-‘Resolved,’ runs the entry, ‘to hand them over to M. de Bèze, that he
-may cause them to be given such a fustigation as will prevent them from
-doing it again.’
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER VIII
-
-PROFESSOR ANDREW MELVILL
-
-
-It does not appear that the fustigations at first formed brilliant
-scholars. The University was, for a long time, more famous for its
-professors than for its pupils. Few learned men, at that period, were
-regarded as prophets in their own countries; and a goodly proportion of
-those who were so regarded had to emigrate for fear of being stoned.
-Many of the fugitives settled at Geneva, and taught there; and the
-readiness of the welcome accorded to the men who were considered
-suitable may be illustrated from the career of Andrew Melvill, the
-Scottish scholar, who subsequently reformed the Scottish Universities,
-and went to profess theology at Sedan. Andrew Melvill had been teaching
-in a college at Poictiers, and the town had been besieged by the
-Huguenots. Then--
-
-‘The siege of the town being raised, he left Poictiers, and accompanied
-by a Frenchman, he took journey to Geneva, leaving books and all
-there, and carried nothing with him but a little Hebrew Bible in his
-belt. So he came to Geneva, all upon foot, and as he had done before
-from Dieppe to Paris, and from that to Poictiers; for he was small
-and light of body, but full of spirits, vigorous, and courageous.
-His companions of the way, when they came to the inn, would lie down
-like tired dogs, but he would out and sight the towns and villages,
-whithersoever they came. The ports of Geneva were carefully kept,
-because of the troubles of France, and the multitude of strangers that
-came. Being therefore inquired what they were, the Frenchman, his
-companion, answered:
-
-‘“We are poor scholars.”
-
-‘But Mr. Andrew, perceiving that they had no wish for poor folks, being
-already overlaid therewith, said:
-
-‘“No, no; we are not poor! We have as much as will pay for all we take
-as long as we tarry. We have letters from his acquaintance to Monsieur
-de Bèze; let us deliver those, we crave no further.”
-
-‘And so, being convoyed to Beza and then to their lodging, Beza
-perceiving him a scholar, and they having need of a Professor of
-Humanity in the College, put him within two or three days to trial
-in Virgil and Homer; wherein he could acquit himself so well that
-without further ado, he is placed in that room of profession; and at
-his first entry a quarter’s fee is paid him in hand. So that howbeit
-there was but a crown to the fore betwixt them both, and the Frenchman
-weak-spirited and wist not what to do, yet he found God’s providence to
-relieve both himself and help his companion till he was provided.’
-
-There follows a picture of Melvill’s life in the city:
-
-‘In Geneva he abode five years; during the which time his chief study
-was Divinity, whereon he heard Beza’s daily lessons and preachings;
-Cornelius Bonaventura, Professor of the Hebrew, Chaldaic, and Syriac
-languages; Portus, a Greek born, Professor of the Greek tongue, with
-whom he would reason about the right pronunciation thereof; for the
-Greek pronounced it after the common form, keeping the accents; the
-which Mr. Andrew controlled by precepts and reason, till the Greek
-would grow angry and cry out:
-
-‘“_Vos Scoti, vos barbari! docebitis nos Græcos pronunciationem linguæ
-nostræ, scilicet?_”
-
-‘He heard there also Francis Hotman, the renownedst lawyer in his time.
-There he was well acquainted with my uncle, Mr. Henry Scrymgeour,
-who, by his learning in the laws and policy and service of many noble
-princes, had attained to great riches, acquired a pretty plot of ground
-within a league of Geneva, and built thereon a trim house called “the
-Vilet,” and a fair lodging within the town, all which, with a daughter,
-his only born, he left to the Syndics of the town.’
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER IX
-
-THÉODORE DE BÈZE
-
-
-Calvin died and was buried with his fathers--not before it was time,
-in the opinion of a good many of his critics--and was succeeded in the
-dictatorship by Théodore de Bèze, whose name is commonly latinized as
-Beza.
-
-The two men had always worked well together; but they differed
-widely both in their antecedents and in their dispositions. Calvin,
-a theologian from his earliest years, had had no hot youth, no
-unregenerate days. Monsieur de Bèze, born of a good old Burgundian
-family, had been a man of the world before he became a man of God;
-before he versified the Psalms he had written verses which his enemies
-described as indecorous; when he enrolled himself among the Reformers,
-the first person whom he had to reform was himself; for, though there
-does not seem to be any truth in the statement of the Jesuit Maimbourg
-that he had a love-affair with the wife of a tailor, there is no
-denying that he had betrayed a young woman of humble birth under
-promise of marriage, and had allowed four years to elapse before
-fulfilling his promise. Moreover, he kept his high spirits when he
-settled down to virtuous courses; and his fellow-citizens were so
-delighted with his jollity that it became a saying in Geneva that it
-would be better to go to hell with Beza than to heaven with Calvin.
-
-[Illustration: YVOIRE, HTE. SAVOIE]
-
-As a man of letters M. de Bèze was principally occupied with
-theological controversy, and, as has been said, with the production of
-his metrical version of the Psalms of David; but his contributions to
-religious disputation sometimes took the form of farce and burlesque.
-He was part author of a satire entitled _Cuisine Papale_, and devoted
-his great gifts to the composition of a rollicking drinking song, in
-which a certain burner of heretics thus bewails the loss of his nose:
-
- ‘O nose that must with drink be dyed!
- O nose, my glory and my pride!
- O nose, that didst enjoy a-right--
- Nose, my alembic of delight!
- My bibulous big bottle-nose,
- As highly coloured as the rose,
- ‘It was my hope that thou wouldst share
- My shifting fortunes everywhere.
- A Churchman’s nose thou wast indeed--
- The partner of his prayers and creed;
- Proof against all doctrinal shocks,
- And never aught but orthodox.’
-
-Let that suffice. It is rather vulgar fooling; but to have omitted
-all mention of it would have been to give an imperfect impression of
-the Reformer. He owed some of his influence with the vulgar to the
-fact that he knew how to descend to their level; and he needed all his
-influence, for he had to guide Geneva through perilous times. There
-was a terrible epidemic of the plague; innumerable fugitives from the
-Massacre of St. Bartholomew took refuge in the town; there was a long
-war with Savoy.
-
-In the case of the plague the difficulty was, as it always had been
-at Geneva, to compel the doctors and the clergy to do their duty to
-the sick. A note in the Register of the Council shows us how, in the
-days before the Reform, the monks had envisaged their obligations.
-The canons of the cathedral, it there appears, passed the following
-resolution:
-
-‘In view of the fact that the plague is suspected to exist in the town,
-the reverend fathers vote themselves a month’s holiday from the duty
-of residing there and attending to the services; their stipends, in the
-meantime, to continue to be paid.’
-
-The month’s holiday, we also gather, was subsequently extended to a
-year, with the same liberal stipulation as to emoluments; and after the
-Reformation we find the Protestant clergy displaying an equal timidity
-in the presence of the disease. The entry concerning them runs thus:
-
-‘The ministers appeared before the Council confessing that it was their
-duty to go and offer consolation to the sufferers from the plague,
-but that not one of them had the courage to do so. They begged the
-Council to overlook their weakness, seeing that God had not given
-them the grace to brave and overcome the peril with the intrepidity
-required--always excepting Matthew Geneston, who is quite willing to
-go, if the lot should fall upon him.’
-
-M. de Bèze, one is glad to know, was made of sterner stuff than these
-weak brethren. Not only were the sick properly visited during his term
-of office. Precautions--fatuous, but well meant--were taken against
-the propagation of the disorder. The Register of the Council is full
-of references to them. Sufferers were ordered not to open their
-windows; convalescents were enjoined to carry white sticks when they
-went abroad, in order that they might be recognized and avoided; it was
-forbidden to eat fruit or to take a bath, as this was believed to be
-a means of catching the infection. We have a note on hospital reform.
-It was ordered that male and female patients should be treated in
-separate wards, in order that certain scandals might be prevented. We
-find a doctor reprimanded for doing his duty negligently. ‘The Sieur
-Bauhin, plague-doctor, is ordered to see his patients in their houses
-instead of being satisfied with having them brought to the window for
-a consultation.’ Finally, we read that ‘the Council, at the request of
-the Ministers, orders all the citizens to frequent the sermons with
-assiduity, in order to turn away the wrath of God which would appear,
-from the continuance of the plague, to be violently aroused against the
-town.’
-
-Then, while the plague was still lingering, came the news of the
-dreadful doings of St. Bartholomew’s Day. Merchants from Lyons brought
-the tidings, predicting the speedy arrival of the victims who had
-escaped the butchery; and preparations were made to entertain them
-hospitably. M. de Bèze dispatched pastors to greet them at the
-frontier, and preached a sermon on the situation, bidding the citizens
-decree a special day of prayer and fasting--the _Jeûne Genevois_, which
-is still observed, though as an occasion of junketing rather than of
-abstinence.
-
-On that occasion, however, the Genevans were very far from junketing.
-They did indeed fast and pray; and on the first day of September the
-arrival of the long train of fugitives began. They were truly fugitives
-rather than immigrants; that is to say, they had fled empty-handed,
-travelled in hourly terror of their lives, and arrived in a state of
-utter destitution. Let it be added that there were 2,300 of them, and
-that contemporary statistics show that there were in Geneva, at that
-period, only 1,200 householders. Imagining the sudden influx of 2,300
-paupers into a town of the size of Sandwich, one begins to realize the
-economic situation thus created. To realize it completely one must
-further remember that Geneva was already on the verge of bankruptcy;
-and that a collection, for the benefit of the fugitives, which realized
-4,000 livres, so exhausted the resources of the town that the proposal
-to make a second collection had to be abandoned.
-
-Severe economy was naturally the order of the day. The only recorded
-example of public extravagance during this period is an order that,
-as the chairs in the Council Chamber were too hard for the comfort of
-the Councillors, they should be padded; and even this outlay may have
-been due to a desire to find work for those who needed it. On the other
-hand, the indications of distress are numerous and startling.
-
-One such indication is furnished by the report of a debate of the
-Venerable Company of Pastors. It was proposed that a deputation should
-wait upon the magistrates ‘to inform them how scantily they provide for
-their clergy in times when everything is dear, the fact being that even
-ministers with no families but only wives to support are absolutely
-unable to live upon their salaries.’ But the proposal was rejected on
-the ground that the magistrates were already aware of the distress
-of the clergy, and could do little to help them, and that it would
-never do for it to be said that the clergy had applied for increased
-emoluments at a time of general impoverishment. ‘It is better,’ the
-resolution continued, ‘to endure our sufferings, leaving it to God to
-relieve them when it seems good to Him; but if any of our brethren are
-too hard pressed, they may declare their condition to the magistrates,
-and ask assistance from them privately.’
-
-Still more sorrowful was the case of the immigrant pastors from France,
-who had no wages. The magistrates distributed a certain amount of
-money among them, and advised them that, as no more was likely to be
-forthcoming, they would be wise to lay out a part of it in learning a
-business or a trade. Their reply is worth preserving:
-
-‘For several weeks,’ they said, ‘their position had been very painful;
-they felt their indebtedness to the Genevans the more acutely because
-no one reminded them of it; and they had decided to do with as little
-as possible to eat until the spring, when they hoped to have better
-news from their own country.’
-
-[Illustration: LA ROCHE, HTE. SAVOIE]
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER X
-
-WAR WITH SAVOY
-
-
-The situation righted itself by degrees, with the help of subscriptions
-from other Swiss cities; but then there was another deadly peril to be
-faced. The pretensions of Savoy were not yet extinguished. The Duke was
-still determined to capture Geneva, whether by violence or by stealth,
-believing that the act would be equally advantageous to the Church and
-to himself. Two attempts to ‘rush’ the town in time of peace--once by
-means of soldiers who were to enter concealed in barges laden with
-wood, and once by means of armed men disguised as muleteers--induced
-the Council to meet and resolve to ‘ask the advice of God and M. de
-Bèze’; and, from 1589 onwards, there was open war, in which 2,186
-Genevans held their own against 18,000 Savoyards.
-
-The atrocities committed by the Savoyard soldiers were numerous and
-terrible. We read of one prisoner of war being skinned alive; of
-another who, with his feet amputated, was driven about on a donkey with
-his face to the tail, and then flung on a dunghill to die. We also read
-of peasants being hung up to be roasted alive over the fire-places in
-their own cottages. It is not wonderful that the Genevan soldiers held
-that this sort of thing gave them the right to retaliate, at least by
-pillaging, when they gained the upper hand. The wonderful thing is
-that, when they did pillage, M. de Bèze called them to order, and was
-listened to. He told them that they were degrading Geneva to the level
-of a brigand’s cave, and bade them make instant restitution of the
-plunder which they had taken from the peasantry. It is recorded that
-they obeyed him, and there could be no better proof that M. de Bèze was
-a strong man.
-
-These hostilities came to an end in 1589, owing to the intervention of
-Henri IV. of France; but the peril was not conjured. Baffled in the
-field, Duke Charles Emmanuel fell back upon treachery, and planned the
-adventure known to history as the Escalade. It is the most notable
-episode in all the Genevan annals. Fragments of scaling-ladders, kept
-as memorials of the ignominious failure of the enterprise, are still
-proudly exhibited in one of the town museums. The story must be told at
-length.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XI
-
-THE ESCALADE
-
-
-The time was December, 1602. Duke Charles Emmanuel had secretly crossed
-the mountains, and established his head-quarters at Etrembières; a
-sufficient army had been quietly mobilized; there were 800 Savoyards,
-1,000 Spaniards, 400 Neapolitans, and 4,000 Piedmontese at Bonne, La
-Roche, Bonneville, and other places near Geneva. The Duke had also
-been at pains to allay suspicion by assuring the Genevans, through his
-agents, that he desired nothing more than to be on friendly terms with
-them. But at midnight of December 12 he set his troops in motion.
-
-A storming-party of some two hundred men led the way, under the
-command of M. Berlonière, who had extreme unction administered to
-him ostentatiously before he started. The main body of 4,000 men was
-to follow under Lieutenant-General d’Albigni. Acting on information
-received, the storming-party struck the Corraterie rampart at a point
-where there was no sentinel on the look-out for them. They carried with
-them faggots and hurdles to help them over the moat, ladders that could
-be dovetailed together to scale the rampart with, and axes and crowbars
-for breaking down or forcing gates. A Scotch Jesuit, named Alexander,
-gave them his benediction as they climbed, and handed to every man an
-amulet which purported to guarantee him in the first instance against
-being killed, and in the second instance against being damned eternally
-if he were killed.
-
-Fortune at first smiled upon their efforts. They succeeded in attaining
-the rampart unobserved, and kept quiet, waiting for d’Albigni and
-the dawn. A single sentinel whom they met was slain in silence. But
-presently a small company of the watch passed by upon its rounds.
-Upon these, too, the soldiers flung themselves, and most of them were
-quickly pitched over into the moat. One gun went off, however, and
-one man managed to escape. He was the drummer, and he ran along the
-rampart, drumming as he went, as far as the Porte de la Monnaie. It
-was enough. The alarm was given. The invaders saw that they must fight
-in the dark, instead of waiting for the dawn. ‘_Vive Espagne!_’ they
-shouted. ‘_Ville gagnée! Tue, Tue!_’ and dashed down into the streets,
-expecting d’Albigni and his 4,000 men to follow them.
-
-But this was what d’Albigni and his 4,000 men could not do. Chance--or
-the hand of Providence--had interfered to save Geneva. A message to say
-that the city was as good as captured had already been sent off to the
-Duke of Savoy at Etrembières; and the Duke was dispatching couriers
-to announce his victory at all the Courts of Europe. But it happened
-that the Genevans at the Porte Neuve loaded a cannon to the muzzle
-with chains, and any other old iron that came to hand, and fired it in
-a direction parallel with the rampart. Had the aim been bad, Geneva
-would have fallen that night beyond a doubt. But the aim was good, and
-the shot broke the ladders into pieces, so that no one could climb by
-them any more; and there was Lieutenant-General d’Albigni with his
-army helpless in the moat, while the storming party was caught in a
-trap within the walls. The citizens snatched up their weapons, and
-hurried down, half dressed, to give them battle in the dark. Their
-pastor, Simon Goulart,[A] who wrote a jubilant description of the
-episode, declared that he himself would have been delighted to join in
-the affray if only he had had a coat of mail. A worthy woman, who was
-making soup for an early breakfast, flung the scalding fluid, saucepan
-and all, out of window on to the heads of the intruders. Other missiles
-were showered upon them from other windows; while the number of armed
-men who faced them in the open steadily increased. In the end, after
-inflicting upon the Genevans a loss of seventeen killed and twenty
-wounded, they were swept back into the moat, leaving many dead and
-thirteen prisoners behind them.
-
- [A] Simon Goulart (1543-1628) was a Frenchman, who accepted the
- Reformation in 1565, and came to Geneva in 1566. In 1572 he
- was made pastor of the Church of St. Gervais. After the death
- of M. de Bèze he became President of the Venerable Company.
- He wrote more than fifty books on various subjects.
-
-[Illustration: THE CASTLE OF ETREMBIÈRES, HTE. SAVOIE]
-
-‘_Misérable butor, vous avez fait une belle cacade_’--‘Blockhead, you
-have made a pretty mess of it’--was Charles Emmanuel’s greeting to
-d’Albigni when he heard the truth; and with that he mounted his horse
-and rode away to Turin, without even troubling to hear the fate of his
-prisoners. These, it should be added, were all beheaded in the course
-of the next day; while the heads of those who had been killed were
-collected and spiked, as an ornament to the ramparts and a terror
-to evil-doers.
-
-M. de Bèze, who was now an old man and very deaf, had slept through the
-fighting undisturbed, and knew nothing of it until his friends told
-him the story the next morning. Though he had now retired from the
-active duties of the pastorate, he dressed himself and went down to the
-Cathedral of St. Pierre, where he mounted the pulpit stairs and called
-upon the congregation to sing Psalm cxxiv.--the Psalm which begins:
-
- ‘If the Lord Himself had not been on our side, now may Israel say:
- if the Lord Himself had not been on our side, when men rose up
- against us.’
-
-The Psalm which ends:
-
- ‘Our soul is escaped, even as a bird out of the snare of the
- fowler: the snare is broken, and we are delivered.
-
- ‘Our help standeth in the name of the Lord: who hath made heaven
- and earth.’
-
-It was the old Reformer’s last public appearance--and a fitting one,
-giving as it does the last dramatic touch to the most dramatic incident
-in Genevan annals. He lived until 1605, but he was growing feebler
-and feebler. He suffered from no actual malady, but it was obvious to
-all that the light was flickering out. His intellect, however, was
-clear until the last, and the picture of his last days, drawn by his
-biographer, Antoine La Faye, recalls Bunyan’s picture of the Christian
-pilgrims waiting in the Land of Beulah for their summons to cross the
-river to the shining city.
-
-The Venerable Company of Pastors in conclave resolved that no day
-should be allowed to pass without at least two of their number paying
-him a visit. For the rest he found his pleasure in reading grave and
-pious colloquies and sermons, and particularly in those words of
-Augustine: ‘Long have I lived; long have I sinned. Blessed be the name
-of the Lord!’ And, at the last, ‘without pain, and without a struggle,
-all his senses, as it seemed, failing him simultaneously, in one single
-instant, he gave back his soul to God, his bodily pilgrimage having
-lasted eighty-six years, three months, and nine days, and forty of his
-years having been spent in the holy office of the ministry.’
-
-‘M. de Bèze,’ La Faye continues, ‘was a man of sturdy build,
-conspicuous beauty, and health so vigorous that he often said that he
-did not know the meaning of a headache. He displayed high talents,
-accurate judgment, a tenacious memory, and remarkable eloquence, while
-in courtesy of manner he was second to no one. In view of the great
-gifts thus recited, and his great age (though these are things less to
-be regarded than his learning and his piety), many used to speak of M.
-de Bèze as the Phœnix of his time.’
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XII
-
-AN INTERVAL OF QUIET
-
-
-M. de Bèze was succeeded in the Presidency of the Venerable Company
-of Pastors by Simon Goulart--the warrior whom we have seen excusing
-himself for not fighting against the Duke of Savoy on the ground that
-he had no coat of mail. In his new office, however, Simon needed no
-armour, for the period from the Escalade of 1603 to the Revocation of
-the Edict of Nantes in 1685 was quiet and uneventful. The great name
-of the epoch was that of Jean Diodati, Milton’s friend, the theologian
-who pulverized the Arminians at the Synod of Dordrecht. Other names
-are those of Trembley, Tronchin, Turretini, and Calendrini; and
-there is not a name among them which need detain us. The town was at
-peace with its neighbours; commerce and industry flourished; and the
-ecclesiastical discipline gradually lost its grip upon the city, or
-was, at least, restricted to a narrower field of usefulness. We hear of
-a good many new sumptuary laws, but we also gather that many of them
-were only a means of accentuating class distinctions, and that there
-was a growing difficulty in enforcing them. We find persons burnt alive
-for witchcraft at the beginning of the period, but not towards the end
-of it; we hear of doubts diffusing themselves as to the efficacy of
-torture in extracting the truth from witnesses; and we find even heresy
-dealt with less rigorously than of old. A heretic who was sentenced
-to be ‘strangled in the usual manner’ had the sentence, without
-difficulty, commuted into one of ten years’ banishment.
-
-[Illustration: NYON CASTLE, LOOKING ACROSS THE LAKE TO MONT BLANC]
-
-The Revocation of the Edict of Nantes inevitably brought a fresh flood
-of immigrants--1,450 in a single week, 800 in a single day--but Geneva
-was by no means disposed to welcome them so hospitably as in the time
-of M. de Bèze. Seventy years of prosperity had sapped some of the
-primitive virtues of the people; they had conceived a dread of foreign
-competition, and of the pauper alien, even though the pauper alien was
-an exile for conscience’ sake. Their disposition was rather to seek
-excuses for passing the pauper aliens on, and make them chargeable upon
-the hospitality of their Swiss allies, or of the Germans or the Dutch.
-To some extent they succeeded; but a considerable number of the
-immigrants settled in the town in spite of the political disabilities
-imposed upon them, and soon became a source of trouble. All through the
-eighteenth century--or at all events from 1707 until 1794--there was
-intermittent political turmoil. A detailed account of the agitations
-and disturbances hardly falls within the scope of such a work as the
-present; but it may be as well to sum them up, and describe their
-general character.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XIII
-
-REVOLUTIONS
-
-
-The Transvaal troubles which culminated in the South African War
-may furnish an analogy which will help to make the situation clear;
-the story being, in fact, a long story of acrimonious relations
-between Burghers and Uitlanders. The Burghers were, in the main,
-the descendants of the families already possessed of the rights
-of citizenship in the half-century following the Reformation; the
-Uitlanders were the descendants of immigrants who had settled in the
-city since that period. The Burghers enjoyed political rights, and
-the Uitlanders did not; the gulf between the two classes was only
-occasionally passed by an exceptional Uitlander whom the Burghers
-considered ‘fit.’ By degrees, however, the Uitlanders became more
-numerous than the Burghers, and a form of government which had been a
-democracy became an oligarchy, in which many of the most intelligent
-and reputable citizens had no voice.
-
-For a time the system worked well enough, or at all events worked
-without any outward signs of friction; but throughout the eighteenth
-century friction was constantly occurring, and insurrections, described
-by some historians as revolutions, broke out at intervals. There were
-revolutions of sorts in 1707, in 1737, in 1766, in 1782, and in 1789,
-with minor revolutions intervening. The recognized mode of composing
-the troubles was to invite the mediation of foreign Powers, and
-more particularly of France. The first step of the French mediator
-was generally, as we shall see, to demand that a theatre should be
-opened and a company of comedians installed in it for his diversion.
-But he also mediated, the result of his mediation being to arrange a
-compromise between the rival claims. Each compromise did something
-to improve the position of the Uitlanders; but no compromise really
-removed their grievances or satisfied their claims.
-
-This brings us to the date of the French Revolution, which, as was
-inevitable in the circumstances, had its very audible repercussion
-at Geneva. The doctrine that ‘all men are equal before the law, and
-ought to enjoy the same political rights,’ was seed which fell there
-upon a fruitful soil. As might have been expected, French methods of
-propagandism were imitated, and Jacobinical clubs were formed--the
-Sans-culottes, the Montagnards, the Marseillais, the Égalité. The
-clubmen constituted a party known as the Égaliseurs, or Equalitarians,
-and demanded a new constitution, based upon the principle of the
-sovereignty of the people, and the admission of all Uitlanders to the
-full rights of citizenship. On the night of September 4, 1792, there
-was a rising. The gates of the town were seized; the members of the
-Government were arrested; a Provisional Government was proclaimed, with
-the mission of drafting a new constitution on the approved democratic
-lines.
-
-So far, so good. But the account of what follows reads like a burlesque
-of the revolutionary proceedings across the frontier. The workmen left
-their work, and paraded the streets in red caps, singing revolutionary
-songs. The extremists banded themselves into a society styled ‘the
-Tanners,’ pledged to ‘tan,’ or assault and batter, the aristocrats,
-whom they called Englués, or Stick-in-the-muds, whenever and wherever
-they met them taking their walks abroad. Nor did such informal acts
-of violence suffice. The next step was to arrest all the aristocrats
-who had not fled from the town, lock them up in the Grenier de
-Chantepoulet, and improvise a revolutionary tribunal to judge them.
-
-[Illustration: MONTENVERS AND AIGUILLES VERTE AND DRU]
-
-The proceedings of the tribunal were conducted with true republican
-_sans-gêne_. The judges sat on the bench in their shirt-sleeves, with
-their pipes in their mouths and their pistols in their belts. Happily,
-however, as if they were half conscious that their proceedings were
-farcical, they were less murderous in their sentences than their
-French models. Though 600 aristocrats were condemned, the majority
-of them escaped with sentences of fines, imprisonment, or exile, and
-the death sentence was only passed upon seven of them. The seven were
-shot by torch-light at the Bastions; and then the people began to be
-horrified by the atrocities which they had perpetrated. There was a
-reaction, a counter-revolution, and a great ceremony of reconciliation
-in the cathedral. The leaders of the rival factions shook hands in the
-presence of the assembled populace, and swore to forgive and forget and
-work together thenceforward for the good of their common country. They
-kept their oaths, and all promised well until the French Directorate
-cast covetous eyes upon Geneva, found a pretext for its annexation, and
-made it the capital of the new department of Leman. It remained
-French until the last day of the year 1813, when Napoleon’s misfortunes
-gave the citizens the opportunity of throwing off the yoke, and they
-sought and obtained admission to the Swiss Confederation.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XIV
-
-LITERATURE AND SCIENCE
-
-
-It has been remarked as curious that the Age of Revolution at Geneva
-was also the Golden Age--if not of Genevan literature, which has never
-really had any Golden Age, at least of Genevan science, which was of
-world-wide renown. The explanation probably is that these Genevan
-revolutions, over which the Genevan historians have spilt such a
-quantity of ink, were not such very important matters after all. So far
-as one can make out, the graver of them were hardly more grave than the
-Peterloo massacre, while the less grave hardly attain to the gravity of
-the Bloody Sunday Riots. A man of letters who took part in one of them
-on the losing side might suffer unpleasant consequences. He might have
-his writings burnt by the common hangman, as Bérenger’s were; he might
-be driven into exile, as were de Lolme, who went to London, where he
-wrote his famous work on the British Constitution, and d’Ivernois, who
-went to Paris and became one of the most pungent critics of republican
-administration and finance. Such things might happen, and in many cases
-did. But there were no such violent or such continual disturbances as
-need take up the whole of a literary man’s time, or prevent him from
-getting on with his work.
-
-The period, at any rate, is one in which notable names meet us at
-every turn. There were exiled Genevans, like de Lolme, holding their
-own in foreign political and intellectual circles; there were emigrant
-Genevan pastors holding aloft the lamps of culture and piety in many
-cities of England, France, Russia, Germany, and Denmark; there were
-Genevans, like François Lefort, holding the highest offices in the
-service of foreign rulers; and there were numbers of Genevans at Geneva
-of whom the cultivated grand tourist wrote in the tone of a disciple
-writing of his master. One cannot glance at the history of the period
-without lighting upon names of note in almost all departments of
-endeavour. The period is that of de Saussure, Bourrit, the de Lucs,
-the two Hubers, great authorities respectively on bees and birds; Le
-Sage, who was one of Gibbon’s rivals for the heart of Mademoiselle
-Suzanne Curchod; Senebier, the librarian who wrote the first literary
-history of Geneva; St. Ours and Arlaud, the painters; Charles Bonnet,
-the entomologist; Bérenger and Picot, the historians; Tronchin,
-the physician; Trembley and Jallabert, the mathematicians; Dentan,
-minister and Alpine explorer; Pictet, the editor of the _Bibliothèque
-Universelle_, still the leading Swiss literary review; and Odier, who
-taught Geneva the virtue of vaccination.
-
-It is obviously impossible to dwell at length upon the careers of
-all these eminent men. As well might one attempt, in a survey on the
-same scale of English literature, to discuss in detail the careers of
-all the celebrities of the age of Anne. One can do little more than
-remark that the list is marvellously strong for a town of some 30,000
-inhabitants, and that many of the names included in it are not only
-eminent, but interesting. Jean André de Luc, for example, has a double
-claim upon our attention as the inventor of the hygrometer and as the
-pioneer of the snow-peaks. He climbed the Buet as early as 1770, and
-wrote an account of his adventures on its summit and its slopes which
-has the true charm of Arcadian simplicity. He came to England, was
-appointed reader to Queen Charlotte, and lived in the enjoyment of that
-office, and in the gratifying knowledge that Her Majesty kept his
-presentation hygrometer in her private apartments, to the venerable age
-of ninety.
-
-Bourrit is another interesting character--being, in fact, the spiritual
-ancestor of the modern Alpine Clubman. By profession he was Precentor
-of the Cathedral; but his heart was in the mountains. In the summer
-he climbed them, and in the winter he wrote books about them. One of
-his books was translated into English; and the list of subscribers,
-published with the translation, shows that the public which Bourrit
-addressed included Edmund Burke, Sir Joseph Banks, Bartolozzi, Fanny
-Burney, Angelica Kauffman, David Garrick, Sir Joshua Reynolds, George
-Augustus Selwyn, Jonas Hanway, and Dr. Johnson. His writings earned
-him the honourable title of Historian (or Historiographer) of the
-Alps. Men of science wrote him letters; princes engaged upon the grand
-tour called to see him; princesses sent him presents as tokens of
-their admiration and regard for the man who had taught them how the
-contemplation of mountain scenery might exalt the sentiments of the
-human mind.
-
-[Illustration: THE JURA RANGE FROM THONON, HTE. SAVOIE]
-
-Tronchin, too, is interesting; he was the first physician who
-recognized the therapeutic use of fresh air and exercise, hygienic
-boots, and open windows. And so is Charles Bonnet, who was not afraid
-to stand up for orthodoxy against Voltaire; and so is Mallet, who
-travelled as far as Lapland. But space forbids any long examination
-of their achievements. The most that one can do is to illustrate the
-epoch by narrating the events of one career; and the career selected
-must of necessity be that of the man of whom his contemporaries always
-spoke, with the reverence of hero-worshippers, as ‘the illustrious de
-Saussure.’
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XV
-
-SAUSSURE
-
-
-Horace Benedict de Saussure, who, like so many eminent Genevans,
-was of French extraction, was born in 1740. Nominally, his work in
-life, entered upon at the age of twenty-two, was that of Professor
-of Philosophy at the Geneva University; but his real work, continued
-almost until his death, was that of the explorer, student, and exponent
-of the mountains. Some time before the end he was able to boast that
-he had crossed the Alps by eight different passes, made sixteen other
-excursions to the centre of the range, and travelled in the Jura,
-the Vosges, and the mountains of Dauphiné. His marriage--he married
-young--by no means hindered him from climbing. Madame de Saussure
-indeed objected, quite failing to understand his readiness to forsake
-the comforts of the hearth in order to revolutionize the science of
-geology. But he put his foot down in a letter which may perhaps be
-read with profit by other ladies besides her to whom it was addressed:
-
-‘In this valley, which I had not previously visited, I have made
-observations of the greatest importance, surpassing my highest hopes;
-but that is not what you care about. You would sooner--God forgive me
-for saying so--see me growing fat like a friar, and snoring every day
-in the chimney-corner after a big dinner, than that I should achieve
-immortal fame by the most sublime discoveries, at the cost of reducing
-my weight by a few ounces and spending a few weeks away from you. If,
-then, I continue to undertake these journeys in spite of the annoyance
-they cause you, the reason is that I feel myself pledged in honour to
-go on with them, and that I think it necessary to extend my knowledge
-of this subject, and make my works as nearly perfect as possible. I say
-to myself: Just as an officer goes out to assault the fortress when the
-order is given, and just as a merchant goes to market on market-day, so
-must I go to the mountain when there are observations to be made.’
-
-Nor was it only in the domestic circle that de Saussure could put his
-foot down if required. In one of the Genevan revolutions--that of
-1782--he also showed his mettle in an energetic fashion. He was a
-magistrate at the time, and one day, when he came down to the Hôtel
-de Ville, he found that the popular party had risen in revolt, and
-seized the building. The rioters requested him to take his place, and
-exercise magisterial functions on lines which they would dictate. When
-he refused, they arrested him, but released him on the following day.
-Then, hearing that they proposed to search his house for arms, he
-decided to resist. He, Trembley, the mathematician, his family, his
-servants, and his dog, constituted the tiny garrison. They barricaded
-the doors, stationed themselves at the windows armed with muskets, and
-successfully defied a gang of revolutionists who came to blow them
-up with hand-grenades. His assailants were reduced to threatening to
-murder his friends if he did not surrender; and it was only this final
-menace that brought about the capitulation of the Genevan Fort Chabrol.
-
-Our business here, however, is not with the politician, but with the
-traveller and the man of science. His widest celebrity is no doubt due
-to his famous ascent of Mont Blanc. If he was not the first man to
-climb that mountain, he was, at any rate, the first to believe that
-it could be climbed. Bourrit, as late as 1773, had written of ‘the
-absolute impossibility of attaining to its summit.’ De Saussure, as
-early as 1760, had offered a reward to anyone who could find a way to
-the top, and undertaken to pay a day’s wages to anyone who tried and
-failed. The reward was not claimed until twenty-six years later, when
-Jacques Balmat got it. When the way was found, de Saussure, though
-now forty-seven years of age, at once made haste to follow it. His
-ascent--the third--was accomplished on August 3, 1787; he published a
-short pamphlet, giving an account of it, in the course of the same year.
-
-[Illustration: THE AIGUILLE AND DÔME DU GOÛTER, MONT BLANC]
-
-The climb was, beyond question, a great feat for a philosopher of
-forty-seven, and it brought the name of de Saussure under the notice
-of thousands of people who would never otherwise have heard of him. A
-still greater feat, accomplished a little later, was the camping out,
-for something over a fortnight, on the Col du Géant. But it is not
-upon either of these feats that de Saussure’s real fame reposes. He is
-reckoned among great men partly because he was the first student of
-geology who knew his business, and partly because he is the only Alpine
-writer of his period whose works have stood the test of time.
-
-The geologists who preceded him fall into two classes. There were the
-mere fossilizers, who had about as much claim to be considered men of
-science as have the stamp-collectors of the present day; there were
-the theorists who geologized, so to say, in the air, threw out hasty
-generalizations from their studies, and thought it beneath their
-dignity as philosophers to correct these hypotheses by the further
-observation of phenomena. De Saussure combined their methods. His life
-was one long, patient study of geological phenomena. But he collected
-in order to collate; his aim was always to see the part in its relation
-to the whole, the particular in its relation to the general; and he
-had a fine contempt for the amateurs who collected fossils in the same
-spirit in which they might have collected pottery or bric-à-brac.
-
-‘The one aim,’ he wrote, ‘of most of the travellers who call
-themselves naturalists is the collection of curiosities. They walk,
-or rather they creep about, with their eyes fixed upon the earth,
-picking up a specimen here and a specimen there, without any eye to a
-generalization. They remind me of an antiquary scratching the ground
-at Rome, in the midst of the Pantheon or the Coliseum, looking for
-fragments of coloured glass, without ever turning to look at the
-architecture of these magnificent edifices.’
-
-The most remarkable thing, however, is that de Saussure, being a
-geologist, should have been a stylist. He certainly never meant to
-be one. He would never have written a book merely to show his skill
-in word-painting; his one purpose in writing was to communicate
-discoveries of importance. At the time when Bourrit was making himself
-famous by his picturesque descriptions of the Alps, the greater man
-wrote to him modestly: ‘I too have an idea of publishing something
-on the natural history of these mountains. It is with that end in
-view that I have been studying them for so many years.’ And in the
-introduction of his great work, he apologizes for what seems to him
-the baldness of his style: ‘More practised in climbing rocks than in
-polishing phrases, I have attempted nothing more than to render clearly
-the objects which I have seen, and the impressions which I have felt.’
-
-It was an apology offered without affectation or false modesty. It
-announced a departure from the literary fashion of the day, which was
-to write of the mountains in the language of high-flown sentiment.
-Rousseau had set the fashion; Ramond de Carbonnière, the philosopher
-of the Pyrenees, was ready to carry it on; de Luc and Bourrit were
-doing what they could. De Saussure wished to announce himself as the
-disciple of none of these, but as the plain man who had made a careful
-study of his subject, and wished to be heard because of what he had to
-say and not because of his manner of saying it. He hardly understood
-that he was, in the full sense of the word, a man of letters--a
-literary artist. That is a point which has since been settled in his
-favour by his readers.
-
-He might easily have written a treatise that would have been invaluable
-to specialists and intolerable to everyone else. Guided by a sure
-instinct, he preferred to write the narrative of his journeys, taking
-the reader, as it were, by the hand, making him his confidant, showing
-him his discoveries in the order in which he makes them, and so luring
-him on to take an interest in a subject generally accounted dull.
-And, though his first care was always to observe, and to collate his
-observations, with a view to the advancement of learning, there always
-was in him something of the poet, which must out from time to time,
-temporarily giving the go-by to the man of science.
-
-One finds this vein of poetry in the writings of most men of
-science--naturally, seeing that they used gifts of imagination
-differing from those of the poet only in being disciplined and
-chastened, and ready to submit to the thraldom of the established fact.
-Sometimes, indeed, the vein of poetry has interfered with business,
-as in the case of the ingenious Scheuchzer, who laid himself out to
-prove that there were dragons in the Alps, or, in a less degree, in
-the case of Buffon. But, whether it interferes with business or not,
-there the vein of poetry almost always is. Such old men of science as
-Conrad Gesner, and such modern men of science as Huxley and Tyndall,
-have shown us with what striking effect it can be worked. It is because
-de Saussure worked it so well that his writings still live, though,
-regarded merely as textbooks, they have long since been superseded.
-
-The humanity of the man is continually flashing out at us in the
-reflections and anecdotes with which he illustrates the manners of the
-strange peoples in the strange places which he visited. Sometimes it is
-a flash of humour, as when he inquires the motives that impel men to
-be chamois-hunters, a trade that never pays. ‘It is the dangers,’ he
-concludes; ‘the constant alternation of hopes and fears, the continual
-emotion thus engendered, which excite the hunter, just as they excite
-the gambler, the soldier, the navigator, and even, to a certain extent,
-the naturalist of the Alps.’
-
-Sometimes it is a touch of pathos, as in the story of the old woman of
-Argentière whose father, husband, and brothers had all perished, within
-a few days, from an epidemic:
-
-‘After she had given me some milk, she asked me where I came from, and
-what I was doing there at that season of the year. When she knew that
-I was from Geneva, she told me that she could not believe that all
-the Protestants were to be damned; that God was too good and too just
-to condemn us all without distinction. Then, after reflecting for a
-moment, she shook her head and added: “But what is so strange to me is
-that of all those who have been taken away from us, not one has ever
-come back. I,” she went on, with a look of pain “have wept so for my
-husband and my brothers, and have never ceased to think of them, and
-every night I implore them to tell me where they are, and whether they
-are happy. Surely, if they existed anywhere, they would not leave me in
-this doubt. But perhaps,” she went on, “it is because I am not worthy
-of this favour. Perhaps the pure and innocent souls of those children
-there”--she pointed to the cradle as she spoke--“are conscious of their
-presence, and enjoy a happiness that is denied to me.”’
-
-Truly a wonderful passage to find embedded in a valuable and solid
-treatise on geology. Ramond never surpassed it though he laid himself
-out to do so, and--in his earlier works, at all events--never allowed
-geological considerations to stand in the way of sentiment.
-
-It is sad to relate that, after having made himself known to all Europe
-as ‘the illustrious de Saussure,’ the pioneer of geological discovery
-fell upon evil days. But so it was. His health broke down; in 1794
-he began to have paralytic strokes. His fortune--the greater part of
-it, at all events--was lost through the collapse of securities during
-the French Revolution. He was on the side that suffered most in the
-political disturbances which the Revolution engendered at Geneva.
-
-In the midst of those disturbances, his father-in-law, Charles Bonnet,
-died, and de Saussure, himself almost to be reckoned a dying man, was
-called upon to pronounce his public eulogium. But the disturbances made
-it necessary for the ceremony to be postponed. A letter in which Madame
-de Saussure narrates the incident gives us a clear impression not only
-of the day, but also of the times of which the day was representative.
-
-‘Yesterday,’ she writes, ‘I spent one of those days of emotion which do
-not affect us the less because we ought to be getting used to them. The
-people took up arms by order of the Committees of the Clubs. The gates
-were shut, the cannon rumbled along the streets, screaming women leant
-out of their windows to look. In the evening the town had that military
-air which you have sometimes seen in it--the streets full of armed
-citizens with flaming torches, patrols challenging the passers-by--and
-all this lasted till two or three in the morning; whereas to-day,
-everyone is at his shop, his café, or his office. And this tumultuous
-day had been selected for the celebration of the memory of the most
-peaceable of citizens--your uncle, Charles Bonnet.’
-
-And so, amid such sorry scenes, the end approached. De Saussure sought
-relief and health in travel. He took the waters at Plombières, but
-without any good result, and died early in 1799, the great Cuvier
-pronouncing his eulogy before the Institut de France.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XVI
-
-MEN OF LETTERS
-
-
-We have spoken of the literature of science. In the literature which is
-an art, and an end in itself, Geneva never excelled; and if we look for
-reasons, we can find several.
-
-The first difficulty was with the language. French came to the
-Genevans as a foreign tongue at a time when their men of learning
-wrote Latin and their populace spoke a Savoyard patois; and, even to
-the present day, few of them avoid a certain provincial awkwardness
-in the handling of it. Anyone who wishes to see the proof has only to
-compare the _Journal de Genève_ with the _Gil Blas_ or the _Figaro_.
-The few stylists whom Geneva can claim have generally been of French
-extraction, like Marc Monnier, or have lived abroad, like Rousseau
-and Madame de Staël. A far more typical Genevan writer was Charles
-Bonnet whose perplexing circumlocutions swamp his elevated sentiments
-and effectively prevent his books from being read. There is also, of
-course, Amiel; but even ‘Roulez, tambours’ is tolerably obvious; while
-the trail of the _cliché_ lies even over that famous ‘Journal Intime’
-which Mrs. Humphry Ward translated.
-
-Another difficulty was the vexatious censorship exercised by Town
-Councillors, whose views of literature were parochial. Even Agrippa
-d’Aubigné, with all his fame and merit, was pursued by their suspicions
-both during his lifetime and after his death. The printer of one
-of his works was imprisoned and fined for issuing from his press a
-book alleged to contain ‘much impious and blasphemous matter which
-scandalizes well-conducted persons’; while, after his decease, his
-papers were sent for, to be inspected by public officials. ‘Anything
-composed by the defunct,’ it was decided, ‘during his residence in this
-State must be suppressed, but anything composed on other territory may
-be restored to his heirs.’ Literary decorum may have been insured by
-such measures; but they were not calculated to encourage originality,
-and it is not surprising that we search Genevan annals in vain for
-distinguished literary names.
-
-[Illustration: THE STATUE OF JEAN-JACQUES ROUSSEAU ON THE ISLAND IN THE
-RHONE, GENEVA, FROM HOTEL DES BERGUES]
-
-The name of which the Genevans are proudest is probably that of
-Rousseau, who has sometimes been spoken of as ‘the austere citizen of
-Geneva.’ But ‘austere’ is a strange epithet to apply to the philosopher
-who endowed the Foundling Hospital with five illegitimate children;
-and Geneva cannot claim a great share in a citizen who ran away from
-the town in his boyhood to avoid being thrashed for stealing apples.
-It was, indeed, at Geneva that Jean Jacques received from his aunt the
-disciplinary chastisement of which he gives such an exciting account
-in his ‘Confessions’; and he once returned to the city and received
-the Holy Communion there in later life. But that is all. Jean Jacques
-was not educated at Geneva, but in Savoy--at Annecy, at Turin, and at
-Chambéry; his books were not printed at Geneva, though one of them was
-publicly burnt there, but in Paris and Amsterdam; it is not to Genevan
-but to French literature that he belongs. And when Jean Jacques has
-been named, there remains no other Genevan citizen of letters worthy to
-be mentioned in the same paragraph. So that branch of the subject may
-be left.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XVII
-
-SONGS AND SQUIBS
-
-
-Perhaps it is in song and satire that Geneva has done best. ‘Roulez,
-tambours,’ is not the only Genevan song that has passed the Genevan
-frontier; and Geneva, in fact, has always been ready to burst into
-song, whether serious or sarcastic, in connection with the topics of
-the day. The Reformation itself was heralded by satirical verses.
-A species of burlesque entitled a ‘sottie’ was, in those days, a
-favourite form of entertainment. The general character of these
-compositions may be gathered from the following scrap of dialogue,
-contained in one of them, between the _Physician_ and the _World_:
-
- ‘_Physician._ So that is what upsets your mind,
- And you are not upset to find
- Church benefices bought and sold
- By hungry thieves in quest of gold?
- Or babies on their mothers’ knee
- Appointed to a Bishop’s See?
- While haughty Churchmen, as they please,
- The goods of any neighbour seize,
- And go to war on small pretext--
- Whereby all Christian men are vext.
- _The World._ From Luther’s land these plaints arise;
- We’re told they are a pack of lies.
- _Physician._ Whatever the abuse you ban,
- They call you, now, a Lutheran.’
-
-The flood-gates of poetry were opened afresh by the failure of the
-Escalade. Even the octogenarian M. de Bèze composed a song on that
-occasion:
-
- ‘Peuple Genevois,
- Elève ta voix
- Pour psalmodier
- De Dieu, l’assistance,
- Et la délivrance
- Que vit avant-hier!’
-
-Other poets followed the pastor’s example by the score. For years--for
-decades even--they mocked in verse at the enemy whom they had put to
-shame. When, at last, they were silent, the revolutionary movement of
-the eighteenth century produced its harvest of squibs; and then we come
-to the Restoration, and the religious revival known as the Réveil,
-which also produced considerable literary repercussions.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XVIII
-
-RELIGIOUS REVIVAL
-
-
-‘Réveil’ is Swiss for Revivalism. The movement was the Genevan analogue
-of our Wesleyan Methodism, though it did not begin till more than
-five-and-twenty years after John Wesley’s death. The originator of it
-was the Scotch evangelist, Robert Haldane. He came to Geneva, made the
-acquaintance of the theological students, and was surprised and shocked.
-
-‘Had they been trained,’ he writes, ‘in the schools of Socrates or
-Plato, and enjoyed no other means of instruction, they could scarcely
-have been more ignorant of the doctrines of the Gospel. To the
-Bible and its contents their studies had never been directed. After
-some conversation, they became convinced of their ignorance of the
-Scriptures, and of the way of salvation, and exceedingly desirous of
-information.’
-
-The young men fell into a habit of dropping in upon Mr. Haldane, at all
-hours of the day and night, to talk over the mysteries of revealed
-religion. He decided to organize his efforts for their evangelization,
-take them in classes three nights a week, and expound the Epistle to
-the Romans. His influence over them was the more remarkable because
-he was, at first, obliged to converse with them by means of an
-interpreter. And he had remarkable men among his pupils: Adolphe Monod,
-of Paris; Félix Neff, the Alpine missionary; and Merle d’Aubigné, the
-historian of the Reformation. A friend, too old to be his pupil, and
-already of his way of thinking, was Cæsar Malan, the hymnodist.
-
-[Illustration: THE HEAD OF LAKE ANNECY HTE. SAVOIE]
-
-The movement thus inaugurated was, it may be presumed, neither wholly
-good nor wholly bad. No doubt it was well for the old-fashioned
-Calvinists to be shaken out of their old-fashioned formalism, and
-taught to regard religion, not as the placid and docile acceptance of
-a theological code, but as the special experience of the individual
-soul. The history of religion is the history of such reactions against
-formalism; and, on the whole, they make for progress. But revivalists,
-being only human after all, have, like other people, their besetting
-sins. They are prone to hypocrisy, to spiritual pride, to sour
-austerity, to the passing of uncharitable judgments on their
-neighbours, and to the unwarranted assumption of the right to cast the
-first stone at sinners.
-
-These vices of the revivalists attracted the attention of that
-section of young Geneva which was not absorbed in the contemplation
-of their virtues. They disliked to see them stand at the corners of
-the market-place and, for a pretence, make long prayers. They took the
-same line towards them as was taken towards Calvin and Farel by those
-earlier Friends of Liberty who demanded permission to ‘live as they
-chose without reference to what was said by the preachers’; and they
-chiefly expressed themselves in verse. They formed a club--the Caveau
-Genevois; and though the waters of oblivion have swept over most of
-their writings, they were the choice spirits of the Geneva of their
-time, and one of them has left us a graphic word-picture of their
-meetings:
-
-‘Our gathering, to which every member was expected to contribute a
-new song or a new air, took place irregularly, and in various places.
-Sometimes we met on the beautiful banks of our lake, at Cologny, on the
-terrace of the Hotel du Lion d’Or. We used to come home arm-in-arm,
-larking and singing, good friends and jolly fellows, ready to begin
-again those charming scenes which politics never troubled, and in
-which music, poetry, and joy--those crowns of harmony and loyal
-friendship--reigned alone.’
-
-And one at least of their songs still lives--the song written by J. F.
-Chaponnière, which opens thus:
-
- ‘Qu’il est beau ce mandement
- De monsieur le grand Vicaire;
- Sa pastorale, vraiment
- A tout bon dévot doit plaire,
- Car il dit à son troupeau:
- “S’il est du mal sur la terre,
- _C’est la faute de Voltaire,
- C’est la faute de Rousseau_.”’
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XIX
-
-ROMANTICISM
-
-
-About 1830 the Caveau Genevois broke up. Some of its members were dead,
-some had left Geneva, some were growing too old for poetry, and some
-were going in for politics. But as the old school faded away, a new
-school--the Romantic School--was dawning. Poets arose who acknowledged
-Lamartine for their father and Victor Hugo for their elder brother.
-They are not really important, but Marc Monnier, in ‘Genève et ses
-Poètes,’ has made them intensely interesting. The greatest poet among
-them was Etienne Gide, Professor of Law at the University. Most
-students of French poetry have by heart that song of his which runs:
-
- ‘C’est un frais sentier plein d’une ombre amoureuse,
- L’on n’y passait que deux en se tenant la main;
- Nous le suivions ensemble en la saison heureuse,
- Mais je n’ai plus dès lors retrouvé ce chemin.
-
- ‘C’est qu’il faut être deux pour ce pélérinage;
- C’est que le frais sentier n’a d’aspect enchanteur,
- De gazon et de fleurs, de parfum et d’ombrage,
- Qu’alors que sur son cœur on presse un autre cœur.
-
- ‘J’ai vu bien des beaux lieus, de bien riantes plages,
- Les bords où croît l’olive, où fleurit l’oranger,
- Des lacs unis et purs ou passent les nuages,
- Des sites merveilleux, charme de l’étranger.
-
- ‘Mais en vain j’ai cherché sur cette heureuse terre,
- A travers ses vallons, ses bois et ses sentiers;
- Je ne l’ai plus revu ce sentier solitaire
- Ou deux amants passaient le long des églantiers.
-
- ‘C’est que le beaux sentier n’est plus q’une chimère,
- Un songe, une ombre vaine, un souvenir chéri;
- C’est qu’après le bonheur vient la douleur amère,
- Que la source était vive et que l’onde a tari.
-
- ‘C’est que la feuille tombe et que la flamme baisse,
- Qu’aux roses sur nos fronts succède le linceul,
- Que notre cœur s’attache et qu’après il delaisse,
- C’est que l’on était deux et que l’on reste seul.
-
- ‘Qui de nous, du passé refaisant le voyage,
- Ne voit en souvenir, à travers le chemin,
- Quelque désert fleuri, quelque paisible ombrage.
- Ou le bonheur s’assit auprès du pélerin.
-
- ‘Au désert de la vie, oasis fortunées,
- Deux souvenirs épars dans l’ombre de nos jours,
- Astres qui vont baissant au déclin des années,
- Mais dont l’éclat lointain nous enchante toujours.’
-
-[Illustration: NERNIER, HTE. SAVOIE]
-
-Another notable man--more notable as a man than a poet--was Petit-Senn,
-who lived to a patriarchal age and was a member of all the
-literary groups in succession. He is sometimes spoken of as a Genevan
-Voltaire; and he resembled Voltaire in living a little way out of
-the town, yet in touch with its intellectual life, and receiving
-the homage of a constant stream of admiring pilgrims; but he is
-even better entitled to be styled the Genevan Mæcænas. Possessed of
-something more than a modest competence, he opened his purse freely
-to the poorer poets, not only relieving their necessities, but paying
-for the publication of their works. His ‘Miliciade’--a satire on the
-amateurishness of the Genevan army--had an immense success when he gave
-a reading of it in a concert-hall; and his ‘Bluettes et Boutades’ are
-short sentences generally worthy of being ranked with epigrams. We may
-cull a few of them:
-
- ‘In the eyes of the world, however one may have made one’s money,
- one has done better than if one had lost it.
-
- ‘The egoist weeps over the story of a shipwreck at the reflection
- that he might himself have been on board.
-
- ‘We are more ready to do justice to the dead than to the absent.
-
- ‘Some of the sins of youth are so agreeable that age repents of
- them only in order to have an excuse for recalling them.
-
- ‘When a friend asks you for money, consider which of the two you
- would rather lose.
-
- ‘The most lucrative kind of commerce would be to buy men at their
- real value, and sell them at their own valuation.
-
- ‘If hypocrisy were to die, modesty would, at least, have to go into
- half-mourning.
-
- ‘Let us respect white hairs ... especially our own.’
-
-Petit-Senn and Etienne Gide were the poets who remained in their city.
-It is characteristic of Genevan literary history that the others sought
-their fortune abroad. _Trop grand poisson pour notre petit lac_ was
-presumably their motto, though they were not fish who cut any very
-striking figure in the lakes to which they repaired. Charles Didier
-was the one of them who succeeded best. He took long walking tours in
-Italy, glorified the carbonari, pictured the meetings of their secret
-societies in the style of ‘The Mysteries of Udolpho,’ and ultimately
-acquired something of a literary position in Paris, where he was
-numbered among the friends of George Sand. Imbert Galloix also went
-to Paris, but fell into destitution there. Nodier helped him. ‘I send
-you,’ he wrote, ‘the half of what I have in the house. It is the first
-time that I blush for my poverty.’ Petit-Senn also sent him money, for
-which he appealed in a very pathetic letter; but he died--a pitiful
-figure, reminding one of Chatterton--at the age of twenty-one. Others
-of the company were Henri Blanvalet, who for twenty years was private
-tutor to the Frankfort Rothschilds--truly a sorry position for a poet;
-and André Verre, who went to Russia to teach in a girls’ school, and
-ultimately edited a newspaper in Buenos Ayres. None of them count. They
-were merely echoes of the louder voices heard in the French _cénacle_.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XX
-
-LATER MEN OF LETTERS
-
-
-One would be tempted, if space permitted, to say something of the
-later literary luminaries of Geneva: of Amiel, the ‘virtuous Don
-Juan,’ as his friends called him, who, after living rather a futile
-life, acquired posthumous fame through his ‘Journal’; of Cherbuliez,
-the novelist, once very popular, though now somewhat out of fashion;
-of Marc Monnier, the sparkling and versatile father of Dr. Philippe
-Monnier who has inherited his wit; of Toepfer, author of ‘Nouvelles
-Genevoises,’ described by one critic as ‘a sort of Swiss Ally Sloper,’
-and by another as ‘a sort of Swiss Max O’Rell, with just a dash of
-Mr. Barlow’; of Emile Javelle, who climbed the Alps diligently and
-wrote of them poetically; of MM. Eugène Ritter and Albert de Montet,
-the pillars of historical research in French Switzerland. But space
-does not permit. What little space remains is claimed by certain
-distinguished strangers who have shed lustre upon Geneva by living in
-the neighbourhood. We must visit Voltaire at Ferney, and Madame de
-Staël at Coppet. Let the patriarch come first.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XXI
-
-VOLTAIRE
-
-
-Voltaire was sixty years of age when he settled on the shores of the
-lake, where he was to remain for another four-and-twenty years; and he
-did not go there for his pleasure. He would have preferred to live in
-Paris, but was afraid of being locked up in the Bastille. As the great
-majority of the men of letters of the reign of Louis XV. were, at one
-time or another, locked up in the Bastille, his fears were probably
-well founded. Moreover, notes of warning had reached his ears. ‘I dare
-not ask you to dine,’ a relative said to him, ‘because you are in bad
-odour at Court.’ So he betook himself to Geneva, as so many Frenchmen,
-illustrious and otherwise, had done before, and acquired various
-properties--at Prangins, at Lausanne, at Saint-Jean (near Geneva), at
-Ferney, at Tournay, and elsewhere.
-
-He was welcomed cordially. Dr. Tronchin, the eminent physician,
-co-operated in the legal fictions necessary to enable him to become a
-landowner in the republic. Cramer, the publisher, made a proposal for
-the issue of a complete and authorized edition of his works. All the
-best people called. ‘It is very pleasant,’ he was able to write, ‘to
-live in a country where rulers borrow your carriage to come to dinner
-with you.’ Yet his desire to ‘score off’ the ministers of religion, who
-no doubt struck him as pretentious persons of sluggish intellect, soon
-set him at loggerheads with his hosts.
-
-The first trouble arose in connection with the article on Geneva
-published in the encyclopædia edited by Diderot and d’Alembert. It was
-in the course of a short visit to Voltaire that d’Alembert gathered
-the materials for that article. He was encouraged, and afforded every
-facility for pursuing his researches, alike by the ministers and by
-the magistrates. ‘He is the curiosity of the town,’ a contemporary
-letter-writer declared, ‘and it is quite the fashion to go and call
-on him.’ In particular he was entertained by the clergy, and talked
-theology with them after dinner. Their views were broad, thanks to the
-influence of that eminent theologian, Turretini; probably their views
-were broader after dinner than before. At all events, the encyclopædist
-drew them out to his satisfaction, with the result that, when his
-article appeared, and the divines made haste to read it, it was
-found that their theological position was expounded in the following
-startling paragraph:
-
-‘There is less complaint of the advance of infidelity at Geneva than
-elsewhere; but that is not surprising. Religion there--unless it be
-among the common people--is reduced to the worship of one God; a
-certain respect for Jesus Christ and the Scriptures is, perhaps, the
-only thing that distinguishes the Christianity of Geneva from pure
-Deism.’
-
-This in the city of Calvin. It was as though the encyclopædist had
-stirred a hornets’ nest. To change the metaphor, the fat was in the
-fire, and the flame blazed up at once. The Consistory met and appointed
-a Commission ‘to consider what were the best steps to take in the
-matter.’ The Commission deputed Dr. Tronchin to try and obtain an
-apology and retraction from the offending author; and Dr. Tronchin
-applied to Voltaire for help. Seeing that Voltaire had already
-written to d’Alembert congratulating him on his success in arousing
-the ‘murmurs of the synagogue,’ this was not a very hopeful step.
-Voltaire, in fact, had inspired the statements which he was now asked
-to invite his collaborator to withdraw. He temporized, enjoyed the
-fun, and tampered with the truth, to keep it up. He protested that he
-knew nothing about the article; that he wanted nothing but a quiet
-life, for himself and for everybody else, including ‘Trinitarians,
-Unitarians, Quakers, Moravians, Turks, Jews, and Chinamen.’ He also, in
-the friendliest manner, warned his correspondent that, if d’Alembert
-were pressed too hard, he might, instead of apologizing, prove that the
-things which he had said were true.
-
-[Illustration: THE CHATEAU DE PRANGINS]
-
-‘Retractation,’ he wrote, ‘was all very well for St. Augustine; but it
-will not do for him. I know his character. If your complaints get too
-loud, he will quote a certain catechism by your Professor of Theology,
-wherein it is said that revelation is “a thing of some utility,” and
-wherein there is no single word about the holy, adorable, and invisible
-Trinity. When he establishes that he has not disclosed a secret, but
-has only publicly taken cognizance of an opinion publicly expressed,
-you will be slightly embarrassed.’
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XXII
-
-VOLTAIRE AND THE THEATRE
-
-
-Another bone of contention was found in Voltaire’s passionate devotion
-to the theatre. His tastes were shared by the ‘advanced’ set at Geneva;
-but the divines, in spite of their broad views on matters of dogmatic
-theology, still held narrow views on the subject of the drama. Dramatic
-performances, whether public or private, were not allowed upon Genevan
-soil; while performances given close to the frontier, on the territory
-of Savoy or France, caused the ministers many searchings of heart.
-
-There had been such performances shortly before Voltaire’s arrival--in
-1751--at Carouge and Chatelaine, and the Consistory had passed a
-resolution on the subject. It had decided to exhort the members of
-the Council to keep their wives away from the entertainments, and to
-exhort the professors to warn the students--and more particularly the
-candidates for Holy Orders--not to attend them. Afterwards, hearing
-that the daughters of some of the pastors had visited the theatre in
-defiance of their admonitions, they had passed a further resolution to
-the effect that this state of things gave ground for reflection--_qu’il
-y a lieu d’y réfléchir_.
-
-Such was the public opinion which Voltaire braved; and his first
-attempt to brave it was not very successful. Soon after his arrival he
-arranged a _salle de spectacle_ inside the city walls, and organized
-a performance of ‘L’Orphelin de la Chine.’ The Consistory growled out
-a hostile resolution, and he dropped the enterprise, but proceeded to
-educate opinion from a safe distance; that is to say, he set up his
-theatre at Lausanne, and wrote insinuating letters about its management
-to his friends among the Genevan pastors. We have Gibbon’s testimony
-to the fact that this theatre ‘refined in a visible degree the manners
-of Lausanne’; and we have a letter in which Voltaire gives the pastor,
-Vernés, sound reasons for coming to witness the performances.
-
-‘In your quality of minister of the Gospel,’ he writes, ‘you might
-very well be present at the rendering of a piece taken from the Gospel
-itself, and hear the word of God from the mouth of the Marquise de
-Gentil, Madame d’Aubonne, and Madame d’Hermenches, who are as worthy
-women as the three Magdalens, and more respectable.’ And he adds: ‘At
-the first representation we had all the ministers of the Holy Gospel in
-the Town, and all the candidates for Holy Orders.’
-
-It was a pretty good beginning; but there was still to be trouble and
-controversy before the educational process was completed. In this
-field, as in the field of theology, d’Alembert, with his encyclopædia
-article, stirred Camerina. He said that it was a pity that comedy
-should be neglected in such a centre of civilization, but added that
-the thing that the Genevans dreaded was not the demoralizing influence
-of plays, but the dissolute behaviour of players. And he suggested that
-this difficulty be got over by means of stringent regulations as to the
-conduct of comedians. By this means, he said, Geneva might have both
-good morals and good theatres, and derive as much advantage from the
-one as from the other.
-
-For the moment it looked as though this ingeniously ironical proposal
-would escape attention, the theologians being too excited about their
-impugned orthodoxy to notice anything else. Rousseau, however, saw it,
-and decided to reply to it, and in due course launched his ‘Lettre sur
-les Spectacles.’ Being himself a dramatic author of some note, he was
-not an ideal champion of the cause which he represented; but in the
-stir caused by his intervention no one seems to have thought of that.
-His rhetoric made just as lively an impression as though his actions
-had always been in keeping with it. The Genevans took sides; and
-Voltaire--as though for the express purpose of giving them something
-tangible to fight about--established a theatre close to their gates,
-outside the jurisdiction of their magistrates, at Tournay.
-
-The battle raged furiously. To this period of Voltaire’s sojourn belong
-most of his bitter sarcastic sayings about Geneva; his reference to
-‘the little church of Calvin, which makes virtue consist in usury and
-asceticism,’ and his famous epigram containing the lines:
-
- ‘On haït le bal, on haït la comédie;
- Pour tout plaisir Genève psalmodie
- Du bon David des antiques concerts,
- Croyant que Dieu se plaît aux mauvais vers.’
-
-Abuse of Jean Jacques also abounds in his letters at this period.
-Jean Jacques is a ‘blackguard’; Jean Jacques is in league with two
-rascally Calvinist priests, and ‘has the insolence’ to say this, that,
-and the other thing; Jean Jacques is ‘valet to Diogenes,’ who ‘has
-played in vain the part of an addle-pated idiot’; if Jean Jacques
-comes to Ferney, he shall be stuffed into a barrel, and presumably
-rolled downhill--which proves, even if it proves nothing else, that,
-when philosophers fall out, they are apt to wrangle in much the same
-language as less intellectual people.
-
-Yet, on the whole, Voltaire was steadily winning the victory. The
-Council, it is true, forbade the citizens to attend his theatre; but
-little attention was paid to the prohibition, and among those who
-disregarded it were included many of the Councillors themselves. ‘Being
-unable,’ as Petit-Senn wittily put it, ‘to remove the danger, they
-bravely set out to share it’; and the philosopher chuckled:
-
-‘I am civilizing the Allobroges as well as I can. Before I came here
-the Genevans had nothing to amuse them but bad sermons. I am corrupting
-all the youth of the pedantic city. I make play-actors of the sons of
-Syndics. The clergy are furious; but I crush them.’
-
-After a while, moreover, his evangelistic efforts received support
-from an unexpected quarter. In 1766 there were certain political
-disturbances in the city, and ambassadors were sent from Berne, Zurich,
-and Paris, to assist in composing them. Voltaire suggested to the
-French ambassador, M. de Beauteville, that he should request admission
-to the city for a company of comedians to amuse himself and his suite.
-Life at Geneva being duller than he liked, M. de Beauteville adopted
-the suggestion. The comedians were introduced; a theatre was arranged
-for them; and Voltaire could chuckle again. The divines thundered.
-‘Children,’ they declared, ‘will be badly brought up; domestic discords
-will trouble families more and more; young men and young women will
-occupy themselves with nothing but comedy and vainglorious display; the
-love of pleasure, vanity, and pride will be their favourite emotions;
-indecent familiarities and libertine behaviour will take the place of
-modesty and chastity.’
-
-But this warning was uttered in vain. Voltaire had triumphed; and
-though he was now an old man, nearing his eightieth birthday, he
-enjoyed his triumph to the full. A picture of the patriarch at the play
-is graphically drawn by a letter-writer of the period:
-
-‘Not the least interesting feature of the spectacle was Voltaire
-himself, leaning his back against the wings in full view of the
-audience, applauding like a man possessed; now beating the floor with
-his walking-stick, now interjecting exclamations such as “Couldn’t be
-better!” “By God, how good!” and now directing the flow of sentiment by
-lifting his handkerchief to his eyes. So little could he control his
-enthusiasm that, at the moment when Ninias quits the scene to brave
-Assue, he ran after Lekain without considering how he was breaking down
-the illusion, took him by the hand, and kissed him at the back of the
-stage. It would be difficult to imagine a more ridiculous burlesque;
-for Voltaire looked like an old man out of a farce, dressed in a bygone
-fashion, with his stockings rolled up over his knees, and only able to
-keep himself on his trembling legs with the help of his stick.’
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XXIII
-
-VISITORS TO FERNEY
-
-
-While Voltaire was vexing the citizens of Geneva, he was also enjoying
-the veneration of all educated Europe, and even of educated America.
-He corresponded regularly with at least four reigning sovereigns, to
-say nothing of men of letters, Cardinals, and Marshals of France; and
-he kept open house for travellers of mark from every country in the
-world. Those of the travellers who wrote books never failed to devote a
-chapter to an account of a visit to Ferney; and from the mass of such
-descriptions we may select for quotation that written, in the stately
-style of the period, by Dr. John Moore, author of ‘Zeluco,’ then making
-the grand tour as tutor to the Duke of Hamilton.
-
-‘The most piercing eyes I ever beheld,’ the doctor writes, ‘are those
-of Voltaire, now in his eightieth year. His whole countenance is
-expressive of genius, observation, and extreme sensibility. In the
-morning he has a look of anxiety and discontent; but this gradually
-wears off, and after dinner he seems cheerful; yet an air of irony
-never entirely forsakes his face, but may always be observed lurking
-in his features whether he frowns or smiles.... Composition is his
-principal amusement. No author who writes for daily bread, no young
-poet ardent for distinction, is more assiduous with his pen, or more
-anxious for fresh fame, than the wealthy and applauded Seigneur of
-Ferney. He lives in a very hospitable manner, and takes care always to
-have a good cook. He generally has two or three visitors from Paris,
-who stay with him a month or six weeks at a time. When they go, their
-places are soon supplied, so that there is a constant rotation of
-society at Ferney. These, with Voltaire’s own family and his visitors
-from Geneva, compose a company of twelve or fourteen people, who
-dine daily at his table, whether he appears or not.... All who bring
-recommendations from his friends may depend upon being received, if he
-be not really indisposed. He often presents himself to the strangers
-who assemble every afternoon in his antechamber, although they bring no
-particular recommendation.’
-
-[Illustration: A VAUDOISE: SUMMER]
-
-It might have been added that, when an interesting stranger who carried
-no introduction was passing through the town, Voltaire sometimes
-sent for him; but this experiment was not always a success, and failed
-most ludicrously in the case of Claude Gay, the Philadelphian Quaker,
-author of some theological works now forgotten, but then of note.
-The meeting was only arranged with difficulty on the philosopher’s
-undertaking to put a bridle on his tongue, and say nothing flippant
-about holy things. He tried to keep his promise, but the temptation
-was too strong for him. After a while he entangled his guest in a
-controversy concerning the proceedings of the patriarchs and the
-evidences of Christianity, and lost his temper on finding that his
-sarcasms failed to make their usual impression. The member of the
-Society of Friends, however, was not disconcerted. He rose from his
-place at the dinner-table, and replied:
-
-‘Friend Voltaire! perhaps thou mayest come to understand these matters
-rightly; in the meantime, finding I can do thee no good, I leave thee,
-and so fare thee well.’
-
-And so saying, he walked out and walked back to Geneva, while Voltaire
-retired in dudgeon to his room, and the company sat expecting something
-terrible to happen.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XXIV
-
-COPPETT
-
-
-A word, in conclusion, about Coppet!
-
-Necker bought the property from his old banking partner, Thelusson,
-for 500,000 livres in French money, and retired to live there when the
-French Revolution drove him out of politics. His daughter, Madame de
-Staël, inherited it from him, and made it famous.
-
-Not that she loved Switzerland; it would be more true to say that she
-detested Switzerland. Swiss scenery meant nothing to her. When she was
-taken for an excursion to the glaciers, she asked what the crime was
-that she had to expiate by such a punishment; and she could look out on
-the blue waters of Lake Leman, and sigh for ‘the gutter of the Rue du
-Bac.’ Even to this day, the Swiss have hardly forgiven her for that,
-or for speaking of the Canton of Vaud as the country in which she had
-been ‘so intensely bored for such a number of years.’
-
-What she wanted was to live in Paris, to be a leader--or, rather, to
-be _the_ leader--of Parisian society, to sit in a salon, the admired
-of all admirers, and to pull the wires of politics to the advantage
-of her friends. For a while she succeeded in doing this. It was she
-who persuaded Barras to give Talleyrand his political start in life.
-But whereas Barras was willing to act on her advice, Napoleon was by
-no means equally amenable to her influence. Almost from the first
-he regarded her as a mischief-maker; and when a spy brought him an
-intercepted letter in which Madame de Staël expressed her hope that
-none of the old aristocracy of France would condescend to accept
-appointments in the household of ‘the bourgeois of Corsica,’ he became
-her personal enemy, and, refusing her permission to live either in the
-capital or near it, practically compelled her to take refuge in her
-country seat. Her pleasaunce in that way became her gilded cage.
-
-Perhaps she was not quite so unhappy there as she sometimes
-represented. If she could not go to Paris, many distinguished and
-brilliant Parisians came to Coppet, and met there many brilliant and
-distinguished Germans, Genevans, Italians, and Danes. The Parisian
-salon, reconstituted, flourished on Swiss soil. There visited there,
-at one time or another, Madame Récamier and Madame Krüdner; Benjamin
-Constant, who was so long Madame de Staël’s lover; Bonstetten, the
-Voltairean philosopher; Frederika Brun, the Danish artist; Sismondi,
-the historian; Werner, the German poet; Karl Ritter, the German
-geographer; Baron de Voght; Monti, the Italian poet; Madame Vigée Le
-Brun; Cuvier; and Oelenschlaeger. From almost every one of them we have
-some pen-and-ink sketch of the life there.
-
-This, for instance, is the scene as it appeared to Madame Le Brun, who
-came to paint the hostess’s portrait:
-
-‘I paint her in antique costume. She is not beautiful, but the
-animation of her visage takes the place of beauty. To aid the
-expression I wished to give her, I entreated her to recite tragic
-verses while I painted. She declaimed passages from Corneille and
-Racine.... I find many persons established at Coppet: the beautiful
-Madame Récamier, the Comte de Sabran, a young English woman, Benjamin
-Constant, etc. Its society is continually renewed. They come to visit
-the illustrious exile who is pursued by the rancour of the Emperor.
-Her two sons are now with her, under the instruction of the German
-scholar Schlegel; her daughter is very beautiful, and has a passionate
-love of study; she leaves her company free all the morning, but they
-unite in the evening. It is only after dinner that they can converse
-with her. She then walks in her salon, holding in her hand a little
-green branch; and her words have an ardour quite peculiar to her: it
-is impossible to interrupt her. At these times she produces on one the
-effect of an improvisatrice.’
-
-And here is a still more graphic description, taken from a letter
-written to Madame Récamier by Baron de Voght:
-
-‘It is to you that I owe my most amiable reception at Coppet. It is no
-doubt to the favourable expectations aroused by your friendship that
-I owe my intimate acquaintance with this remarkable woman. I might
-have met her without your assistance--some casual acquaintance would
-no doubt have introduced me--but I should never have penetrated to the
-intimacy of this sublime and beautiful soul, and should never have
-known how much better she is than her reputation. _She is an angel sent
-from heaven to reveal the divine goodness upon earth._ To make her
-irresistible, a pure ray of celestial light embellishes her spirit and
-makes her amiable from every point of view.
-
-‘At once profound and light, whether she is discovering a mysterious
-secret of the soul or grasping the lightest shadow of a sentiment,
-her genius shines without dazzling, and when the orb of light has
-disappeared, it leaves a pleasant twilight to follow it.... No doubt
-a few faults, a few weaknesses, occasionally veil this celestial
-apparition; even the initiated must sometimes be troubled by these
-eclipses, which the Genevan astronomers in vain endeavour to predict.
-
-‘My travels so far have been limited to journeys to Lausanne and
-Coppet, where I often stay three or four days. The life there suits
-me perfectly; the company is even more to my taste. I like Constant’s
-wit, Schlegel’s learning, Sabran’s amiability, Sismondi’s talent and
-character, the simple truthful disposition and just intellectual
-perceptions of Auguste,[B] the wit and sweetness of Albertine[C]--I was
-forgetting Bonstetten, an excellent fellow, full of knowledge of all
-sorts, ready in wit, adaptable in character--in every way inspiring
-one’s respect and confidence.
-
- [B] Madame de Staël’s son, who afterwards edited the works of
- Madame de Staël and Madame Necker.
-
- [C] Madame de Staël’s daughter, afterwards Duchesse de Broglie.
-
-‘Your sublime friend looks and gives life to everything. She imparts
-intelligence to those around her. In every corner of the house some
-one is engaged in composing a great work.... Corinne is writing her
-delightful letters about Germany, which will no doubt prove to be the
-best thing she has ever done.
-
-‘The “Shunamitish Widow,” an Oriental melodrama which she has just
-finished, will be played in October; it is charming. Coppet will be
-flooded with tears. Constant and Auguste are both composing tragedies;
-Sabran is writing a comic opera, and Sismondi a history; Schlegel is
-translating something; Bonstetten is busy with philosophy, and I am
-busy with my letter to Juliette.’
-
-[Illustration: THE TRICOTEUSE: WINTER]
-
-Then, a month later:
-
-‘Since my last letter, Madame de Staël has read us several chapters of
-her work. Everywhere it bears the marks of her talent. I wish I could
-persuade her to cut out everything in it connected with politics, and
-all the metaphors which interfere with its clarity, simplicity and
-accuracy. What she needs to demonstrate is not her republicanism, but
-her wisdom.... Mlle. Jenner played in one of Werner’s tragedies which
-was given, last Friday, before an audience of twenty. She, Werner, and
-Schlegel played perfectly....
-
-‘The arrival in Switzerland of M. Cuvier has been a happy distraction
-for Madame de Staël; they spent two days together at Geneva, and
-were well pleased with each other. On her return to Coppet she found
-Middleton there, and in receiving his confidences forgot her troubles.
-Yesterday she resumed her work.
-
-‘The poet whose mystical and sombre genius has caused us such profound
-emotions starts, in a few days’ time, for Italy.
-
-‘I accompanied Corinne to Massot’s. To alleviate the tedium of the
-sitting, a Mlle. Romilly played pleasantly on the harp, and the studio
-was a veritable temple of the Muses....
-
-‘Bonstetten gave us two readings of a Memoir on the Northern Alps. It
-began very well, but afterwards it bored us.... Madame de Staël resumed
-her reading, and there was no longer any question of being bored. It is
-marvellous how much she must have read and thought over to be able to
-find the opportunity of saying so many good things. One may differ from
-her, but one cannot help delighting in her talent....
-
-‘And now here we are at Geneva, trying to reproduce Coppet at the Hôtel
-des Balances. I am delightfully situated with a wide view over the
-Valley of Savoy, between the Alps and the Jura.... Yesterday evening
-the illusion of Coppet was complete. I had been with Madame de Staël to
-call on Madame Rilliet, who is so charming at her own fireside. On my
-return I played chess with Sismondi. Madame de Staël, Mlle. Randall,
-and Mlle. Jenner sat on the sofa chatting with Bonstetten and young
-Barante. We were as we had always been--as we were in the days that I
-shall never cease regretting.’
-
-Other descriptions exist in great abundance, but these suffice to
-serve our purpose. They show us the Coppet salon as it was--pleasant,
-brilliant, unconventional; something like Holland House, but more
-Bohemian; something like Harley Street, but more select; something
-like Gad’s Hill--which it resembled in the fact that the members of
-the house-parties were expected to spend their mornings at their
-desks--but on a higher social plane; a centre at once of high thinking
-and frivolous behaviour; of hard work and desperate love-making, which
-sometimes paved the way to trouble.
-
-If only one had space to go into the details of that love-making! But
-that is a subject which would need a much larger book than this to do
-it justice.
-
-
-
-
-INDEX
-
-
- Academy of Calvin, 3
-
- Amadeus IX., Duke, 15
-
- Amaulx, Pierre, 30
-
- Amiel, 90, 105
-
- Annecy, 91
-
- Arlaud, 73
-
- Arve, The, 20
-
- Aubert, Syndic, 30
-
-
- Balmat, Jacques, 80
-
- Bauhin, Sieur, plague-doctor, 47
-
- Beauteville, M. de, 115
-
- Bérenger, 71, 73
-
- Berlonière, M., 53
-
- Berthelier, Philibert, 10
-
- Bèze, M. de, 34, 36, 38, 40, 41, 43, 44, 46, 48, 51, 52, 57, 58,
- 59, 61, 62, 94
-
- Blanvalet, Henri, 102
-
- Bonaventura, Cornelius, 41
-
- Bonivard, François de, 11, 24
-
- Bonivard’s Chronicle, 14
-
- Bonnet, Charles, 73, 75, 86, 87, 89
-
- Bonstetten, 125, 129, 130
-
- Bourrit, 72, 74, 80, 83
-
- Brun, Frederika, 125
-
-
- Calendrini, 61
-
- Calvin, 3, 23, 24, 30, 31, 34, 43, 97, 109
-
- Casaubon, Isaac, 34
-
- Caveau Genevois, 97
-
- Chaponnière, J. F., 98
-
- Charles Emanuel, Duke, 52, 53, 56
-
- Charles IV., Emperor, 33
-
- Cherbuliez, 105
-
- Chevalier, M., 36
-
- Chillon, 11
-
- Constant, Benjamin, 125, 127
-
- Coppet, 106, 123, 124, 126, 127, 129, 130
-
- Cordier, Mathurin, 37
-
- Corraterie, 1, 2, 54
-
- Couvent de la Rive, 14
- de Sainte-Claire, 15
-
- Cuisine Papale, 44
-
- Curchod, Mademoiselle Suzanne, 72
-
- Cuvier, 125, 129
-
-
- D’Albigni, 53, 54, 55, 56
-
- D’Alembert, 108, 109, 113
-
- D’Aubigné, Agrippa, 90
- Merle, 96
-
- Dentan, 73
-
- Didier, Charles, 102
-
- Diodati, Jean, 61
-
- D’Ivernois, 71
-
-
- École de la Rive, 33, 34
-
- Égaliseurs, 67
-
- Eidgenossen, The, 9
-
- Englués, 67
-
- Escalade, The, 52, 61
-
- Estienne, Robert, 35
-
- Etrembières, 55
-
-
- Fabri, Bishop Adhémar de, 9
-
- Farel, 13, 14, 18, 23, 24, 97
-
- Ferney, 107, 115, 119, 120
-
-
- Galloix, Imbert, 102
-
- Gay, Claude, 121
-
- Geneston, Matthew, 46
-
- Genevan Revolutions, 78
-
- Gesner, 84
-
- Gibbon, 72, 112
-
- Gide, Etienne, 99, 102
-
- Goulart, Simon, 55, 61
-
-
- Haldane, Mr., 95, 96
-
- Henri IV., 52
-
- Hotman, Francis, 41
-
- Hubers, The Two, 72
-
- Hugues, Besançon, 10
-
-
- Jacobinical Clubs, 67
-
- Jallabert, 73
-
- Javelle, Emile, 105
-
- Jeanne de Jussie, 15, 17
-
- Jeûne Genevois, 48
-
-
- Knox, John, 25
-
- Krüdner, Madame de, 125
-
-
- La Faye, Antoine, 58
-
- Lamartine, 99
-
- Laws and Statutes of Geneva, The, 25
-
- Le Brun, Madame Vigée, 125
-
- Lefort, François, 72
-
- Le Sage, 72
-
- Libertines, 23
- Liberty, The Friends of, 30, 97
-
- Lolme, De, 71, 72
-
- Luc, Jean André de, 73, 83
-
- Lucs, The De, 72
-
-
- Maimbourg, 43
-
- Malan, Cæsar, 96
-
- Malingre, Pastor, 13
-
- Mallet, 75
-
- Massacre of St. Bartholomew, 45
-
- Melvill, Andrew, 39, 41
-
- Monnet, Raoul, 30
-
- Monnier, Dr. Philippe, 105
- Marc, 89, 99, 105
-
- Monod, Adolphe, 96
-
- Montet, Albert de, 105
-
- Monti, 125
-
- Moore, Dr. John, 119
-
-
- Necker, 123
-
- Neff, Félix, 96
-
-
- Odier, 73
-
- Oelenschlaeger, 125
-
-
- Pecolat, Jean, 10
-
- Petit-Senn, 100, 102
-
- Picot, 73
-
- Pictet, 73
-
- Portus, 41
-
- Prangins, 107
-
-
- Récamier, Madame, 125, 126
-
- Register of the Consistory, The, 29
-
- Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, The, 61, 62
-
- Revolution at Geneva, 86
- Age of, 71
-
- Revolutions, 65, 66
-
- Réveil, The, 94, 95
-
- Rilliet, Madame, 130
-
- Ritter, Karl, 125
- Eugène, 105
-
- Romantic School, The, 99
-
- Rousseau, 3, 82, 89, 91, 113
- Jean-Jaques, 91, 114
-
-
- Salève, 1
-
- Saulnier, Antoine, 33
-
- Saussure, De, 72, 75, 77, 78, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 86, 87
-
- Scheuchzer, 84
-
- Schlegel, 127, 129
-
- Scrymgeour, Henry, 41
-
- Senebier, 72
-
- Servetus, 31
-
- Sismondi, 125, 127
-
- Social Evil, The, 7
-
- Staël, Madame de, 89, 106, 123, 124, 125, 128, 129, 130
- Albertine de, 127
- Auguste de, 127
-
- St. Bartholomew’s Day, 47
-
- St. Ours, 73
-
-
- Tanners, 67
-
- Theocracy, The, 25
-
- Toepfer, 105
-
- Trembley, 61, 73, 79
-
- Tronchin, Dr., 61, 73, 74, 107, 109
-
- Turretini, 61, 108
-
-
- University, 33, 34, 35, 36, 39
-
-
- Vernés, 112
-
- Verre, André, 103
-
- Viret, 18
-
- Voght, Baron de, 125, 126
-
- Voltaire, 75, 106, 107, 109, 111, 112, 114, 115, 116, 117, 119,
- 120, 121
-
-
- Werner, 125, 129
-
-
-THE END
-
-
-BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD
-
-
-
-
-Transcriber’s Notes
-
-
-Punctuation, hyphenation, and spelling were made consistent when a
-predominant preference was found in this book; otherwise they were not
-changed. The spelling of non-English words was not checked.
-
-Simple typographical errors were corrected.
-
-Ambiguous hyphens at the ends of lines were retained.
-
-Index not checked for proper alphabetization or correct page references.
-
-
-
-
-
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Geneva, by Francis Gribble
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