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diff --git a/old/50738-0.txt b/old/50738-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 2b7ad98..0000000 --- a/old/50738-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3331 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Geneva, by Francis Gribble - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - -Title: Geneva - Painted by J. Hardwicke Lewis & May Hardwicke Lewis. - Described by Francis Gribble. - -Author: Francis Gribble - -Release Date: December 21, 2015 [EBook #50738] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GENEVA *** - - - - -Produced by Shaun Pinder, Charlie Howard, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - -Transcriber’s Note: Boldface is indicated by =equals signs=, italics by -_underscores_. - - - - -GENEVA - - - - -OTHER BOOKS ON SWITZERLAND - - -THE ALPS - - PAINTED BY A. D. M’CORMICK - DESCRIBED BY SIR MARTIN CONWAY - - Containing 62 full-page Illustrations in Colour - - =Price 20/- net= - (_Post free, price 20/6_) - - -MONTREUX - - PAINTED BY J. HARDWICKE LEWIS AND - MAY HARDWICKE LEWIS - DESCRIBED BY FRANCIS H. GRIBBLE - - Containing 20 full-page Illustrations in Colour and a - Sketch-Map - - =Price 7/6 net= - (_Post free, price 7/11_) - - -OUR LIFE IN THE SWISS HIGHLANDS - - BY JOHN ADDINGTON SYMONDS - AND HIS DAUGHTER MARGARET - - With 16 full-page Illustrations in Colour by - J. HARDWICKE LEWIS - - =Price 7/6 net= - (_Post free, price 7/11_) - - -THE UPPER ENGADINE - - PAINTED BY J. HARDWICKE LEWIS - DESCRIBED BY S. C. MUSSON - - Containing 20 full-page Illustrations in Colour - - =Price 6/- net= - (_Post free, price 6/4_) - - -A. AND C. BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON - - - - -[Illustration: SUNSET ON MONT BLANC FROM ABOVE GENEVA] - - - - - GENEVA - - PAINTED BY - J. HARDWICKE LEWIS & - MAY HARDWICKE LEWIS - DESCRIBED BY - FRANCIS GRIBBLE - - [Illustration] - - LONDON - ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK - 1908 - - - - -Contents - - - CHAPTER I - PAGE - OLD GENEVA 1 - - - CHAPTER II - - THE WAR OF INDEPENDENCE 9 - - - CHAPTER III - - THE REFORMATION 13 - - - CHAPTER IV - - THE EXPULSION OF THE NUNS 17 - - - CHAPTER V - - THE RULE OF CALVIN 23 - - - CHAPTER VI - - THE TRIUMPH OF THE THEOCRACY 29 - - - CHAPTER VII - - THE UNIVERSITY 33 - - - CHAPTER VIII - - PROFESSOR ANDREW MELVILL 39 - - - CHAPTER IX - - THÉODORE DE BÈZE 43 - - - CHAPTER X - - WAR WITH SAVOY 51 - - - CHAPTER XI - - THE ESCALADE 53 - - - CHAPTER XII - - AN INTERVAL OF QUIET 61 - - - CHAPTER XIII - - REVOLUTIONS 65 - - - CHAPTER XIV - - LITERATURE AND SCIENCE 71 - - - CHAPTER XV - - SAUSSURE 77 - - - CHAPTER XVI - - MEN OF LETTERS 89 - - - CHAPTER XVII - - SONGS AND SQUIBS 93 - - - CHAPTER XVIII - - RELIGIOUS REVIVAL 95 - - - CHAPTER XIX - - ROMANTICISM 99 - - - CHAPTER XX - - LATER MEN OF LETTERS 105 - - - CHAPTER XXI - - VOLTAIRE 107 - - - CHAPTER XXII - - VOLTAIRE AND THE THEATRE 111 - - - CHAPTER XXIII - - VISITORS TO FERNEY 119 - - - CHAPTER XXIV - - COPPET 123 - - - - -List of Illustrations - - - 1. Sunset on Mont Blanc from above Geneva. J. H. L. _Frontispiece_ - - FACING PAGE - 2. L’Église de la Madeleine, Geneva. M. H. L. 6 - - 3. The Last Snow on the Wooded slopes. M. H. L. 10 - - 4. Geneva from the Arve. M. H. L. 20 - - 5. The Bay of Meillerie. J. H. L. 26 - - 6. Evian les Bains, Hte. Savoie. M. H. L. 34 - - 7. The Glaciers des Bossons, Chamonix. J. H. L. 38 - - 8. Yvoire, Hte. Savoie. M. H. L. 44 - - 9. La Roche, Hte. Savoie. J. H. L. 50 - - 10. The Castle of Etrembières, Hte. Savoie. J. H. L. 56 - - 11. Nyon Castle, looking across the Lake to Mont Blanc. J. H. L. 62 - - 12. Montenvers and Aiguilles Verte and Dru. J. H. L. 68 - - 13. The Jura Range from Thonon, Hte. Savoie. J. H. L. 74 - - 14. The Aiguille and Dôme du Goûter, Mont Blanc. M. H. L. 80 - - 15. The Statue of Jean Jacques Rousseau on the Island in the - Rhone, Geneva, from Hôtel des Bergues. J. H. L. 90 - - 16. The Head of Lake Annecy, Hte. Savoie. J. H. L. 96 - - 17. Nernier, Hte. Savoie. M. H. L. 100 - - 18. The Chateau de Prangins. M. H. L. 110 - - 19. A Vaudoise: Summer. M. H. L. 120 - - 20. The Tricoteuse: Winter. M. H. L. 128 - - - - -CHAPTER I - -OLD GENEVA - - -Towns which expand too fast and become too prosperous tend to lose -their individuality. Geneva has enjoyed that fortune, and has paid that -price for it. - -Straddling the Rhone, where it issues from the bluest lake in the -world, looking out upon green meadows and wooded hills, backed by the -dark ridge of the Salève, with the ‘great white mountain’ visible in -the distance, it has the advantage of an incomparable site; and it -is, from a town surveyor’s point of view, well built. It has wide -thoroughfares, quays, and bridges; gorgeous public monuments and -well-kept public gardens; handsome theatres and museums; long rows -of palatial hotels; flourishing suburbs; two railway-stations, and a -casino. But all this is merely the façade--all of it quite modern; -hardly any of it more than half a century old. The real historical -Geneva--the little of it that remains--is hidden away in the -background, where not every tourist troubles to look for it. - -It is disappearing fast. Italian stonemasons are constantly engaged -in driving lines through it. They have rebuilt, for instance, the old -Corraterie, which is now the Regent Street of Geneva, famous for its -confectioners’ and booksellers’ shops; they have destroyed, and are -still destroying, other ancient slums, setting up white buildings of -uniform ugliness in place of the picturesque but insanitary dwellings -of the past. It is, no doubt, a very necessary reform, though one may -think that it is being executed in too utilitarian a spirit. The old -Geneva was malodorous, and its death-rate was high. They had more than -one Great Plague there, and their Great Fires have always left some of -the worst of their slums untouched. These could not be allowed to stand -in an age which studies the science and practises the art of hygiene. -Yet the traveller who wants to know what the old Geneva was really like -must spend a morning or two rambling among them before they are pulled -down. - -The old Geneva, like Jerusalem, was set upon a hill, and it is towards -the top of the hill that the few buildings of historical interest are -to be found. There is the cathedral--a striking object from a distance, -though the interior is hideously bare. There is the Town Hall, in -which, for the convenience of notables carried in litters, the upper -stories were reached by an inclined plane instead of a staircase. -There is Calvin’s old Academy, bearing more than a slight resemblance -to certain of the smaller colleges at Oxford and Cambridge. There, -too, are to be seen a few mural tablets, indicating the residences of -past celebrities. In such a house Rousseau was born; in such another -house--or in an older house, now demolished, on the same site--Calvin -died. And towards these central points the steep and narrow, mean -streets--in many cases streets of stairs--converge. - -As one plunges into these streets one seems to pass back from the -twentieth century to the fifteenth, and need not exercise one’s -imagination very severely in order to picture the town as it appeared -in the old days before the Reformation. The present writer may claim -permission to borrow his own description from the pages of ‘Lake Geneva -and its Literary Landmarks’: - -‘Narrow streets predominated, though there were also a certain number -of open spaces--notably at the markets, and in front of the Cathedral, -where there was a traffic in those relics and rosaries which Geneva was -presently to repudiate with virtuous indignation. One can form an idea -of the appearance of the narrow streets by imagining the oldest houses -that one has seen in Switzerland all closely packed together--houses at -the most three stories high, with gabled roofs, ground-floors a step or -two below the level of the roadway, and huge arched doors studded with -great iron nails, and looking strong enough to resist a battering-ram. -Above the doors, in the case of the better houses, were the painted -escutcheons of the residents, and crests were also often blazoned -on the window-panes. The shops, too, and more especially the inns, -flaunted gaudy sign-boards with ingenious devices. The Good Vinegar, -the Hot Knife, the Crowned Ox, were the names of some of these; their -tariff is said to have been fivepence a day for man and beast. - -‘The streets, being narrow, were also very generally crowded, and were -particularly crowded in the evenings. From the stuffy houses--and even -in these days of sanitation a really old Swiss house is sometimes -stuffy enough to make the stranger gasp for breath--the citizens of -high as well as low degree sallied to take their pleasure in the -street. The street was their drawing-room. They stood and gossiped -there; they sat about on benches underneath their windows. Or some -musician would strike up a lively tune, and ladies of the highest -position in society--the daughters and wives of Councillors and -Syndics--attired in velvets and silks and satins, would dance -round-dances in the open air. For all their political anxieties, these -early Genevans were, on the whole, a merry people. - -‘But--let there be no mistake about it--they made merry in the midst of -filth and evil smells. On this point we have unimpeachable information -in the shape of a rescript issued by the Chapter of the Cathedral after -conference with the Vidomne and the Syndics. The Chapter complains that -too many citizens dispose of their slops by carelessly throwing them -out of window, and establish refuse-heaps outside their front-doors--a -noisome practice which still prevails in many of the Swiss villages, -though no longer in any of the Swiss towns. It is also complained -that nearly every man has a pig-sty, and lets his pigs run loose in -the streets for exercise, and that there is an undue prevalence of -such unsavoury industries as the melting of tallow and the burning -of the horns of cattle. One can imagine the net result of this great -combination of nuisances. In a city of magnificent distances it might -have passed. Bayswater, at the present day, lives in ignorance of the -smells of Bermondsey. But in Geneva, when Geneva was almost as small -as Sandwich, one can understand that the consequences were appalling -to the nostrils of the polite. The fact that the city was so overrun -with lepers and beggars that two lazar-houses and seven _hôpitaux_--or -casual wards, as one might say--had to be provided for their reception, -adds something, though not perhaps very much, to this unpleasant side -of the picture. - -[Illustration: L’ÉGLISE DE LA MADELEINE, GENEVA] - -‘Our ecclesiastical rescript further proves that while the Genevans -were a merry and a dirty, they were also an immoral, people. It records -that they are unduly addicted to the game of dice, and that the outcome -of this pastime is “fraud, deception, theft, rapine, lies, fights, -brawls, and insults, to say nothing of damnable blasphemy”; and it -ordains that any man who “swears without necessity” shall “take off his -hat and kneel down in the place of his offence, and clasp his hands, -and kiss the earth”--or pay a fine of three halfpence if he fail to do -so. Then it proceeds to propound an elaborate scheme for the State -regulation of immorality, forbidding certain indulgences “to clergymen -as well as laymen”; and requiring the Social Evil to wear something in -the nature of a Scarlet Letter to distinguish her from other women.’ - - - - -CHAPTER II - -THE WAR OF INDEPENDENCE - - -In the first half of the sixteenth century occurred the two events -which shaped the future of Geneva: Reformation theology was accepted; -political independence was achieved. - -Geneva, it should be explained, was a fief of the duchy of Savoy; or -so, at all events, the Dukes of Savoy maintained, though the citizens -were of the contrary opinion. Their view was that they owed allegiance -only to their Bishops, who were the Viceroys of the Holy Roman Emperor; -and even that allegiance was limited by the terms of a Charter granted -in the Holy Roman Emperor’s name by Bishop Adhémar de Fabri. All -went fairly well until the Bishops began to play into the hands of -the Dukes; but then there was friction, which rapidly became acute. -A revolutionary party--the Eidgenossen, or Confederates--was formed. -There was a Declaration of Independence and a civil war. - -So long as the Genevans stood alone, the Duke was too strong for them. -He marched into the town in the style of a conqueror, and wreaked his -vengeance on as many of his enemies as he could catch. He cut off the -head of Philibert Berthelier, to whom there stands a memorial on the -island in the Rhone; he caused Jean Pecolat to be hung up in an absurd -posture in his banqueting-hall, in order that he might mock at his -discomfort while he dined; he executed, with or without preliminary -torture, several less conspicuous patriots. Happily, however, some of -the patriots--notably Besançon Hugues--got safely away, and succeeded -in concluding treaties of alliance between Geneva and the cantons of -Berne and Fribourg. The men of Fribourg marched to Geneva, and the -Duke retired. The citizens passed a resolution that he should never -be allowed to enter the town again, seeing that he ‘never came there -without playing the citizens some dirty trick or other’; and, the more -effectually to prevent him from coming, they pulled down their suburbs -and repaired their ramparts, one member of every household being -required to lend a hand for the purpose. - -[Illustration: THE LAST SNOW ON THE WOODED SLOPES] - -Presently, owing to religious dissensions, Fribourg withdrew from the -alliance. Berne, however, adhered to it, and, in due course, -responded to the appeal for help by setting an army of seven thousand -men in motion. The route of the seven thousand lay through the canton -of Vaud, then a portion of the Duke’s dominions, governed from the -Castle of Chillon. Meeting with no resistance save at Yverdon, they -annexed the territory, placing governors (or _baillis_) of their own -in its various strongholds. The Governor of Chillon fled, leaving his -garrison to surrender; and in its deepest dungeon was found the famous -prisoner of Chillon, François de Bonivard. From that time forward -Geneva was a free republic, owing allegiance to no higher power. - - - - -CHAPTER III - -THE REFORMATION - - -The Reformation occurred simultaneously with the political revolution; -and the informal historian, who is under no compulsion to take a side, -is inevitably impressed less by the piety of the Reformers than by -their uproarious behaviour. Their leader--the ringleader in their -disturbances--was Farel, a hot-headed Frenchman from Gap, in Dauphiné. -He hounded the people on to wreck the churches; he invaded the pulpits -of other preachers without invitation, and confuted them therefrom; he -once broke up an ecclesiastical procession, and, snatching an image -out of the priest’s hand, threw it over the bridge into the river. -Moreover, as was natural, he included among his devoted followers many -evangelists whose zeal was, like his own, conspicuously in excess of -their discretion. Of one of them, Pastor Malingre of Yverdon, it is -recorded by a contemporary chronicler that ‘his methods were not very -evangelical--he used to crown the Roman Catholic priests with cow-dung.’ - -Reform was already in the air when Farel came to Geneva to preach. The -new doctrine had been bruited abroad by pedlars from Nuremberg, who ate -meat on Fridays, and expressed the opinion that ‘the members of the -religious Orders ought to be set to work in the fields, that the saints -were dead and done for, and that it was nonsense to pray to them, -seeing that they could render no assistance.’ So we read in Bonivard’s -‘Chronicle’; but, even so, Geneva was not quite prepared to receive -Farel with open arms. He was haled before an ecclesiastical court, -and accused of preaching the Gospel in an inappropriate costume--‘got -up like a gendarme or a brigand.’ One burly monk gave him a ‘coup de -pied, quelque part,’ and the monks collectively proposed to throw him -into the Rhone; and, though the laity protected him from clerical -violence, the Syndic ordered him to quit the town within six hours, as -an alternative to being burnt alive. He went, and three years passed -before he returned and triumphed in a theological disputation held in -the great hall of the Couvent de la Rive. - -The result of that disputation was, as has been written, that -‘religious liberty was taken away from the Roman Catholics and given -to the Protestants.’ The celebration of the Mass, so recently a solemn -duty, now became a high crime and misdemeanour; and the victorious -Reformers proceeded, like the French anti-clericals of our own day, to -the expulsion of monks and nuns. The first to go were the Sisters of -the Convent of Sainte-Claire, founded in 1476 by Yolande, wife of Duke -Amadeus IX. of Savoy and sister of Louis XI. of France. We have a full -account of their ejection from the pen of one of them, Sister Jeanne de -Jussie, afterwards Lady Superior of a convent at Annecy. - - - - -CHAPTER IV - -THE EXPULSIONS OF THE NUNS - - -The Sisters had long been exposed to annoyance by Reformers of the -baser sort. One such Reformer, having occasion to call at the convent -on some municipal business, had insisted on washing his hands in the -holy water, and had boasted, when he got outside, that he had been -privileged to kiss the nuns all round--‘a foul lie,’ says Sister -Jeanne, ‘for he did not even attempt to kiss any one of us.’ Another -Reformer had preached against them, declaring that they ought to be -‘turned out and compelled to marry in accordance with the commandment -of God’; and the congregation had been so impressed by the discourse -that the younger men among the worshippers had climbed up on to the -convent wall, and sat there singing amorous songs for the edification -of the inmates. - -No official action was taken, however, until after the conclusion of -the disputation above referred to, though then it followed quickly. -Fifteen Reformers, including Farel and Viret, called at the convent, -declined the invitation to say what they had to say through the -grating, but threatened to force the door if they were not admitted. -The door was opened to them, therefore, and all the Sisters being -summoned before them in the chapter-house, Farel ‘spoke in terms of -vituperation of the holy cloister, of religion, of chastity, and of -virginity, in a way that went to the hearts of the poor Sisters.’ The -others kept silence, but Mère Vicaire protested, interrupted, and -screamed. Our narrative proceeds: - -‘She stationed herself between the Sisters and the young men, saying: - -‘“Since your preacher is such a holy man, why don’t you treat him with -respect and obedience? You’re a pack of young rascals, but you won’t -make any progress here.” - -‘Whereat they were all indignant, and exclaimed: - -‘“What the devil is the matter with the woman? Are you mad? Go back to -your place.” - -‘“I won’t,” she said, “until these young men leave the Sisters alone!”’ - -So Mère Vicaire was put out of the room; and the preacher resumed his -discourse on the institution of matrimony. We read that ‘when he -referred to the corruption of the flesh, the Sisters began to scream’; -and that when he spoke of the advantages of married life, the Mère -Vicaire, who was listening at the key-hole, began to batter at the -panels, exclaiming: ‘Don’t you listen to him, my sisters; don’t you -listen to him.’ So, after labouring at the conversion of the Sisters -from ten o’clock in the morning until five o’clock in the afternoon, -the Reformers retired discomfited. A crowd of three hundred persons was -waiting for them outside the gate, prepared to offer marriage to any -nun whom they might have persuaded to accompany them; but they came -forth alone, the last to leave being thumped on the back by a nun who -desired to hurry his departure. - -It transpired, however, that one of the Sisters--‘the ill-advised -Sister Blasine’--had been converted by the Reformers’ arguments. -The other nuns tried to detain her, but the citizens broke into the -convent and fetched her out in triumph, and also insisted that the -convent should provide her with a dowry and pay her damages for the -disciplinary whippings inflicted upon her during her membership of -the Order. It was the culminating outrage. The nuns decided to leave -Geneva, and the Lady Superior applied to the Syndic for an armed -escort. The request was granted, and the ‘dolorous departure’ began. -Three hundred soldiers were turned out to see the Sisters safely across -the bridge over the Arve, where the territory of Geneva ended. It -was the first time since their taking of the veil that they had been -outside the convent walls, and some of them had spent all their lives -in the cloister and grown old there, so that they were in no fit state -to travel thus on foot. Let Sister Jeanne tell us what befell them: - -[Illustration: GENEVA FROM THE ARVE] - -‘Truly it was a pitiful thing to see this holy company in such -condition, so overcome by pain and toil that several of them broke down -and fainted by the way--and that on a rainy day and in a muddy road, -and with no means of getting out of their trouble, for they were all on -foot, except four invalids who were in a cart. There were six poor aged -Sisters, who had been for sixteen years members of the Order, and two -who for sixty-six years had never been outside the convent gate. The -fresh air was too much for them. They fainted away; and when they saw -the beasts of the fields, they were terrified, thinking that the cows -were bears, and that the sheep were ravening wolves. Those who met them -could not find words to express their compassion for them; and, -though the Mère Vicaire had given each Sister a stout pair of boots to -keep her feet dry, the greater number of them would not walk in boots, -but carried them tied to their girdles, and in this way it took them -from five o’clock in the morning until nearly nightfall to reach Saint -Julien, though the distance is less than a league.’ - - - - -CHAPTER V - -THE RULE OF CALVIN - - -Stories such as those related above make it clear that rowdyism was -likely to be the note of the Reformation at Geneva so long as Farel -remained at the head of ecclesiastical affairs. With all his fiery -zeal for Gospel truth, he was no better than a theological demagogue; -and what Geneva wanted at the moment was not a demagogue, but a -disciplinarian. Calvin supplied that need. He was a Protestant wanderer -over the face of the earth, and he came to Geneva on his way from Italy -to Strassburg. Farel, who had come to know his own limitations, called -upon him in his inn, and prevailed upon him to stay and help him to -keep order in the town, and, in particular, to help him to suppress -certain Libertines, or Friends of Liberty, who had been protesting that -the Reformers had no right to ‘require the citizens to attend sermons -against their will,’ and demanding ‘liberty to live as they chose -without reference to what was said by the preachers.’ Calvin, after -much hesitation, consented, and so a new era began. - -It was not the work of a day. Calvin began energetically enough, -admonishing Bonivard for undue familiarity with his servant-maid, -standing a gambler in the pillory with a pack of cards hung round his -neck, imprisoning a hairdresser for making a client look too beautiful, -and endeavouring to throw ridicule upon conjugal infidelity by obliging -an offender to ride round the town on a donkey. But the recalcitrants -fought stubbornly for the right of living as they chose. The people -who wanted to live dissolute lives allied themselves with the people -who wanted unleavened bread to be used for the Holy Communion; and the -coalition was powerful enough to get Calvin and Farel first forbidden -to meddle with politics, and then ordered to leave the town within -three days. - -They were no sooner gone, however, than they began to be missed. The -disorders, rampant during their absence, became intolerable, and there -was some danger that the Duke of Savoy might see his way to take -advantage of them. A majority of the citizens came to the conclusion -that strict regulations were to be preferred to insecurity, and they -sent ambassadors to Calvin, inviting him to return, and to ‘stay -with them for ever because of his great learning.’ He agreed to do -so, and they voted him a small but sufficient salary, and gave him a -strip of cloth to make him a new gown. In return, he drafted for their -acceptance a new and original constitution, whereby the morals, and -even the manners, of the community were placed under ecclesiastical -supervision. That was the famous Theocracy, established in 1541, which -seemed to John Knox to make Geneva ‘the most perfect school of Christ -that ever was in the earth since the days of the Apostles.’ A recital -of a few of the enactments, taken from a contemporary translation -entitled ‘The Laws and Statutes of Geneva,’ will be the most simple -means of presenting the picture of the social life of the town under -the regime: - - -‘THE LAWS AND STATUTES OF GENEVA. - -‘Item, that none shall play or run idly in the streets during the time -of Sermons on Sundays, nor days of prayer, nor to open their shops -during the sermon time under pain without any favour.’ - -‘Item, that no man, of what estate, quality, or condition soever he -be, dareth be so hardy to make, or cause to be made, or wear hosen or -doublets, cut, jagged, embroidered, or lined with silk, upon pain to -forfeit.’ - -‘Item, that no Citizen, Burger, or Inhabitant of this City dareth be so -hardy to go from henceforth to eat or drink in any Tavern.’ - -‘Item, that none be so hardy to walk by night in the Town after nine of -the clock, without candle-light and also a lawful cause.’ - -‘Item, that no manner of person, of what estate, quality or condition -soever they be, shall wear any chains of gold or silver, but those -which have been accustomed to wear them shall put them off, and wear -them no more upon pain of three score shillings for every time.’ - -‘Item, that no women, of what quality or condition soever they be, -shall wear any verdingales, gold upon her head, quoises of gold, -billiments or such like, neither any manner of embroidery upon her -sleeves.’ - -[Illustration: THE BAY OF MEILLERIE] - -‘Item, that no manner of person, whatsoever they be, making bride-ales, -banquets, or feasts shall have above three courses or services to the -said feasts, and to every course or service not above four dishes, and -yet not excessive, upon pain of three score shillings for every time, -fruit excepted.’ - -‘Item, that no manner of men shall go to the baths appointed for women, -and also women not to go to those that be appointed for men.’ - -‘Item, that no manner of person do sing any vain, dishonest or -ribaldry songs, neither do dance, nor make masques, mummeries, or any -disguisings in no manner or sort whatsoever it be, upon pain to be put -three days in prison with bread and water.’ - -‘Item, that all Hosts and Hostesses shall advertise their guests, and -expressly forbid them not to be out of their lodging after the Trumpet -sound to the Watch or ringing of the Bell (which is at nine of the -clock), upon pain of the indignation of the Lords.’ - -‘Item, that all Hosts and others shall make their prayers to God, and -give thanks before meat and after upon pain of forty shillings and for -every time being found or proved, and if the Hosts or Hostesses be -found negligent and not doing it, to be punished further as the case -requireth.’ - -‘Item, that none do enterprise to do, say, nor contract anything out -of this City that he dare not do or say within the same concerning the -Law of God and Reformation of the Gospel, upon pain to be punished -according as the case requireth.’ - - - - -CHAPTER VI - -THE TRIUMPH OF THE THEOCRACY - - -Such was the constitution in theory; and, if we want to see it at work, -we have only to turn to the Register of the Consistory, in which we -may read how the citizens were punished for peccadilloes. One woman, -we find, got into trouble for saying her prayers in Latin, and another -for wearing her hair hanging down her back. One man was punished for -wearing baggy knickerbockers in the street; a second for offering his -snuff-box to a friend during the sermon; a third for talking business -to a neighbour as he was coming out of church; a fourth for calling his -cow by the Scriptural name Rebecca; a fifth for likening the braying -of his donkey to the chanting of a psalm. There was also the case of -a workman whose property was confiscated because he did not relieve -the indigence of his aged parents; of a child stood in the pillory -and publicly whipped for throwing a stone at its mother; of a mother -imprisoned for carelessly dropping her baby on the floor; and of a -young lady solemnly arraigned on the charge of casting amorous glances -at a minister of the Word. - -Not everybody, of course, approved of such elaborate interference with -liberty. The Friends of Liberty resisted it as long as they could, -and their methods of resistance were not passive. They set their dogs -at Calvin; they openly ridiculed him; they came drunk to church and -brawled. But Calvin was a match for them. Pierre Amaulx, who said of -him that he ‘thought as much of himself as if he were a Bishop,’ was -compelled to apologize, bareheaded, in public; and all those who tried, -as Calvin put it, to ‘throw off the yoke of the Gospel’ came to a bad -end. One of them, Raoul Monnet, was beheaded for inviting young men -to look at indecorous pictures; and the party was ultimately broken -up as the result of a row in the streets. They were very drunk, and -were threatening certain of the Reformers with violence, when Syndic -Aubert, hearing their noise, came out and faced them in his nightgown, -carrying his staff of office in one hand and a lighted candle in the -other. Thus attired and equipped, he placed himself at the head of the -watch, summoned the soldiers to his aid, and put the rioters to rout. -Some of them were killed in the scuffle; others were captured, tried, -and executed; while the remnant escaped into the country, where, for -a period, they eked out a precarious existence by means of highway -robbery. - -From that time forward Calvin’s supremacy was undisputed. The principal -use which he made of it was to burn Servetus; but that is a thorny -branch of the subject into which it is better not to enter. Our modern -Calvinists do not, indeed, hold that Servetus deserved to be burnt, but -they do sometimes maintain that Calvin did no great harm in burning -him. There might be some risk of putting them to confusion if the -topic were pursued; and this is not a controversial work. We shall be -on safer ground if we turn aside to consider Calvin’s services to the -State as an educationist. - - - - -CHAPTER VII - -THE UNIVERSITY - - -In Old Geneva education had been neglected. Emperor Charles IV. had -offered the citizens a University in the fourteenth century, and the -offer had been rejected for fear, it was alleged, lest the students -should behave uproariously. The first public school was not opened -in the town until 1429. It lasted for about a hundred years, and -then fell upon evil times during an epidemic of the plague. The head -master ran away from the contagion, and the City Council ordered the -building to be closed, on the ground that the children were knocking it -to pieces. Then, in 1535, after the Protestants had gained the upper -hand, the École de la Rive was established in the convent from which -the Cordeliers had been expelled. The first head-master was Antoine -Saulnier, a Dauphiné Reformer, and his prospectus ran as follows: - -‘In our school the lectures begin at five o’clock in the morning and -continue until ten, which is our usual dinner hour. The ordinary -curriculum consists of instruction in the three most excellent -languages, Greek, Hebrew, and Latin, not to mention the French -language, which, in the opinion of the learned, is by no means to be -despised. We hope that, the Lord helping us, the time will come when we -shall also teach rhetoric and dialectic.’ - -[Illustration: EVIAN LES BAINS, HTE. SAVOIE] - -Calvin, however, wanted something better than the École de la Rive. -He found a means, therefore, of founding a University, and placed -Théodore de Bèze (of whom more presently) at the head of it as Rector. -It was, at first, as Mark Pattison clearly proved in his ‘Life of -Isaac Casaubon,’ little more than a grammar school, culminating in a -theological college; but it soon expanded, and is still expanding. -Nowadays, indeed, housed in commodious new buildings, it furnishes -instruction in almost every imaginable branch of knowledge, and -specially favours studies of a utilitarian character; but the original -programme was confined to the humane letters, the funds for the -maintenance of the institution being raised with difficulty, and -by means of ingenious fiscal devices, hardly to be held up to the -imitation of modern fiscal reformers. - -One device was to ear-mark for the University chest all the fines -imposed upon law-breakers. Those who gave short measure in the market, -and those who spoke evil of the magistrates, were alike mulcted in -the interests of learning; the heaviest contribution was that exacted -from a bookseller convicted of having charged an excessive price for -a copy of the Psalms of David. A second method consisted in summoning -all the notaries of the town before the Council, and instructing them, -when any citizen called them in to make his will, to impress upon the -testator the desirability of bequeathing something to the University; -the result was a total gain of 1,074 florins, including 312 florins -from Robert Estienne, the printer, and 5 sous from a poor woman in the -baking business. A third contrivance was to suppress a public banquet, -and require the cost, estimated at 100 florins, to be handed to the -University authorities. - -In this way the University--such as it was--was started, with -class-rooms for the scholars and apartments for the professors, who -were allowed to supplement their incomes by taking boarders. Everything -was poorly done, however, and nobody appears to have been comfortable. -Complaints of one sort and another are recorded, in large numbers, -in the Register of the Council. For one thing, there was no heating -apparatus, but ‘the teachers used to keep up charcoal fires at their -own expense, and require every pupil to pay something towards them.’ -For another thing, there was no glass in the windows, and we read that -‘as to the request of the Principal that glass windows shall be placed -in the class-rooms, it is decided that this shall not be done, but that -the scholars may, if they like, fill up the apertures with paper.’ The -teachers, too, were constantly expressing dissatisfaction with the -accommodation provided for them. As early as 1559 we have one of them -applying for a more commodious lodging, on the ground that ‘God has -called him to the estate of matrimony.’ A little later we come upon -this note: - -‘Claude Bridet requested permission to lodge above the Tower, where -M. Chevalier, lecturer in Hebrew, used to live, for the sake of his -health, and because the lower ground is damp. Decided that he must be -satisfied with his present apartment, and that the place to which he -refers shall be kept for someone else.’ - -In spite of discomfort, however, hard work was the order of the -day. A letter has been preserved from M. de Bèze, the Rector of the -University, to the parent of a pupil, in which he says: ‘I fear -I shall be able to make nothing of your son, for, in spite of my -entreaties, he refuses to work more than fourteen hours a day.’ The -ordinary curriculum did not call for quite such persistent application -as that, but was, none the less, sufficiently severe. - -The day began, at 7 a.m., with prayers, roll-call, and lessons. At 8.30 -there was half an hour’s rest, during which the pupils were instructed -to ‘eat bread, praying while they did so, without making a noise.’ From -9 to 10 there were more lessons, terminating with more prayers; from -10 to 11 the scholars dined; from 11 to 12 they sang psalms; from 12 -to 1 there were further lessons, inaugurated by prayer; from 1 to 2 -there was a quiet time devoted to eating, writing, and informal study; -from 2 to 4 there was a final instalment of lessons; and at 4 there was -punishment parade in the great college hall. - -The punishments were mainly corporal, and were inflicted so frequently -that the milder professors protested. ‘The daily fustigations,’ said -Mathurin Cordier, ‘disgust the children with the study of the humane -letters; moreover, their skins get hardened like the donkeys’, and -they no longer feel the stripes.’ It should be added, however, that -the stripes were not so often inflicted for neglect of the humane -letters as for misbehaviour in church. The children had to attend three -services every Sunday and one every Wednesday, in addition to the -frequent daily prayers at school. They talked and played, as children -will, to the scandal of their elders, and they played truant whenever -they saw a chance. It must be admitted to be an indication of imperfect -discipline that these peccadilloes were often solemnly reviewed before -the Town Council, instead of being summarily dealt with at a Court of -First Instance in the head-master’s study. The Councillors, however, -showed no sentimental tendency to spare the rod. They might fine -offenders whom their police caught in the streets when they ought to -have been availing themselves of the means of grace; but they also very -generally turned them over to the scholastic authorities to be whipped. -A typical case is that of two lads who were caught playing quoits on -the ramparts during the hours of Divine service on a Sunday morning. - -[Illustration: THE GLACIERS DES BOSSONS, CHAMONIX] - -‘Resolved,’ runs the entry, ‘to hand them over to M. de Bèze, that he -may cause them to be given such a fustigation as will prevent them from -doing it again.’ - - - - -CHAPTER VIII - -PROFESSOR ANDREW MELVILL - - -It does not appear that the fustigations at first formed brilliant -scholars. The University was, for a long time, more famous for its -professors than for its pupils. Few learned men, at that period, were -regarded as prophets in their own countries; and a goodly proportion of -those who were so regarded had to emigrate for fear of being stoned. -Many of the fugitives settled at Geneva, and taught there; and the -readiness of the welcome accorded to the men who were considered -suitable may be illustrated from the career of Andrew Melvill, the -Scottish scholar, who subsequently reformed the Scottish Universities, -and went to profess theology at Sedan. Andrew Melvill had been teaching -in a college at Poictiers, and the town had been besieged by the -Huguenots. Then-- - -‘The siege of the town being raised, he left Poictiers, and accompanied -by a Frenchman, he took journey to Geneva, leaving books and all -there, and carried nothing with him but a little Hebrew Bible in his -belt. So he came to Geneva, all upon foot, and as he had done before -from Dieppe to Paris, and from that to Poictiers; for he was small -and light of body, but full of spirits, vigorous, and courageous. -His companions of the way, when they came to the inn, would lie down -like tired dogs, but he would out and sight the towns and villages, -whithersoever they came. The ports of Geneva were carefully kept, -because of the troubles of France, and the multitude of strangers that -came. Being therefore inquired what they were, the Frenchman, his -companion, answered: - -‘“We are poor scholars.” - -‘But Mr. Andrew, perceiving that they had no wish for poor folks, being -already overlaid therewith, said: - -‘“No, no; we are not poor! We have as much as will pay for all we take -as long as we tarry. We have letters from his acquaintance to Monsieur -de Bèze; let us deliver those, we crave no further.” - -‘And so, being convoyed to Beza and then to their lodging, Beza -perceiving him a scholar, and they having need of a Professor of -Humanity in the College, put him within two or three days to trial -in Virgil and Homer; wherein he could acquit himself so well that -without further ado, he is placed in that room of profession; and at -his first entry a quarter’s fee is paid him in hand. So that howbeit -there was but a crown to the fore betwixt them both, and the Frenchman -weak-spirited and wist not what to do, yet he found God’s providence to -relieve both himself and help his companion till he was provided.’ - -There follows a picture of Melvill’s life in the city: - -‘In Geneva he abode five years; during the which time his chief study -was Divinity, whereon he heard Beza’s daily lessons and preachings; -Cornelius Bonaventura, Professor of the Hebrew, Chaldaic, and Syriac -languages; Portus, a Greek born, Professor of the Greek tongue, with -whom he would reason about the right pronunciation thereof; for the -Greek pronounced it after the common form, keeping the accents; the -which Mr. Andrew controlled by precepts and reason, till the Greek -would grow angry and cry out: - -‘“_Vos Scoti, vos barbari! docebitis nos Græcos pronunciationem linguæ -nostræ, scilicet?_” - -‘He heard there also Francis Hotman, the renownedst lawyer in his time. -There he was well acquainted with my uncle, Mr. Henry Scrymgeour, -who, by his learning in the laws and policy and service of many noble -princes, had attained to great riches, acquired a pretty plot of ground -within a league of Geneva, and built thereon a trim house called “the -Vilet,” and a fair lodging within the town, all which, with a daughter, -his only born, he left to the Syndics of the town.’ - - - - -CHAPTER IX - -THÉODORE DE BÈZE - - -Calvin died and was buried with his fathers--not before it was time, -in the opinion of a good many of his critics--and was succeeded in the -dictatorship by Théodore de Bèze, whose name is commonly latinized as -Beza. - -The two men had always worked well together; but they differed -widely both in their antecedents and in their dispositions. Calvin, -a theologian from his earliest years, had had no hot youth, no -unregenerate days. Monsieur de Bèze, born of a good old Burgundian -family, had been a man of the world before he became a man of God; -before he versified the Psalms he had written verses which his enemies -described as indecorous; when he enrolled himself among the Reformers, -the first person whom he had to reform was himself; for, though there -does not seem to be any truth in the statement of the Jesuit Maimbourg -that he had a love-affair with the wife of a tailor, there is no -denying that he had betrayed a young woman of humble birth under -promise of marriage, and had allowed four years to elapse before -fulfilling his promise. Moreover, he kept his high spirits when he -settled down to virtuous courses; and his fellow-citizens were so -delighted with his jollity that it became a saying in Geneva that it -would be better to go to hell with Beza than to heaven with Calvin. - -[Illustration: YVOIRE, HTE. SAVOIE] - -As a man of letters M. de Bèze was principally occupied with -theological controversy, and, as has been said, with the production of -his metrical version of the Psalms of David; but his contributions to -religious disputation sometimes took the form of farce and burlesque. -He was part author of a satire entitled _Cuisine Papale_, and devoted -his great gifts to the composition of a rollicking drinking song, in -which a certain burner of heretics thus bewails the loss of his nose: - - ‘O nose that must with drink be dyed! - O nose, my glory and my pride! - O nose, that didst enjoy a-right-- - Nose, my alembic of delight! - My bibulous big bottle-nose, - As highly coloured as the rose, - ‘It was my hope that thou wouldst share - My shifting fortunes everywhere. - A Churchman’s nose thou wast indeed-- - The partner of his prayers and creed; - Proof against all doctrinal shocks, - And never aught but orthodox.’ - -Let that suffice. It is rather vulgar fooling; but to have omitted -all mention of it would have been to give an imperfect impression of -the Reformer. He owed some of his influence with the vulgar to the -fact that he knew how to descend to their level; and he needed all his -influence, for he had to guide Geneva through perilous times. There -was a terrible epidemic of the plague; innumerable fugitives from the -Massacre of St. Bartholomew took refuge in the town; there was a long -war with Savoy. - -In the case of the plague the difficulty was, as it always had been -at Geneva, to compel the doctors and the clergy to do their duty to -the sick. A note in the Register of the Council shows us how, in the -days before the Reform, the monks had envisaged their obligations. -The canons of the cathedral, it there appears, passed the following -resolution: - -‘In view of the fact that the plague is suspected to exist in the town, -the reverend fathers vote themselves a month’s holiday from the duty -of residing there and attending to the services; their stipends, in the -meantime, to continue to be paid.’ - -The month’s holiday, we also gather, was subsequently extended to a -year, with the same liberal stipulation as to emoluments; and after the -Reformation we find the Protestant clergy displaying an equal timidity -in the presence of the disease. The entry concerning them runs thus: - -‘The ministers appeared before the Council confessing that it was their -duty to go and offer consolation to the sufferers from the plague, -but that not one of them had the courage to do so. They begged the -Council to overlook their weakness, seeing that God had not given -them the grace to brave and overcome the peril with the intrepidity -required--always excepting Matthew Geneston, who is quite willing to -go, if the lot should fall upon him.’ - -M. de Bèze, one is glad to know, was made of sterner stuff than these -weak brethren. Not only were the sick properly visited during his term -of office. Precautions--fatuous, but well meant--were taken against -the propagation of the disorder. The Register of the Council is full -of references to them. Sufferers were ordered not to open their -windows; convalescents were enjoined to carry white sticks when they -went abroad, in order that they might be recognized and avoided; it was -forbidden to eat fruit or to take a bath, as this was believed to be -a means of catching the infection. We have a note on hospital reform. -It was ordered that male and female patients should be treated in -separate wards, in order that certain scandals might be prevented. We -find a doctor reprimanded for doing his duty negligently. ‘The Sieur -Bauhin, plague-doctor, is ordered to see his patients in their houses -instead of being satisfied with having them brought to the window for -a consultation.’ Finally, we read that ‘the Council, at the request of -the Ministers, orders all the citizens to frequent the sermons with -assiduity, in order to turn away the wrath of God which would appear, -from the continuance of the plague, to be violently aroused against the -town.’ - -Then, while the plague was still lingering, came the news of the -dreadful doings of St. Bartholomew’s Day. Merchants from Lyons brought -the tidings, predicting the speedy arrival of the victims who had -escaped the butchery; and preparations were made to entertain them -hospitably. M. de Bèze dispatched pastors to greet them at the -frontier, and preached a sermon on the situation, bidding the citizens -decree a special day of prayer and fasting--the _Jeûne Genevois_, which -is still observed, though as an occasion of junketing rather than of -abstinence. - -On that occasion, however, the Genevans were very far from junketing. -They did indeed fast and pray; and on the first day of September the -arrival of the long train of fugitives began. They were truly fugitives -rather than immigrants; that is to say, they had fled empty-handed, -travelled in hourly terror of their lives, and arrived in a state of -utter destitution. Let it be added that there were 2,300 of them, and -that contemporary statistics show that there were in Geneva, at that -period, only 1,200 householders. Imagining the sudden influx of 2,300 -paupers into a town of the size of Sandwich, one begins to realize the -economic situation thus created. To realize it completely one must -further remember that Geneva was already on the verge of bankruptcy; -and that a collection, for the benefit of the fugitives, which realized -4,000 livres, so exhausted the resources of the town that the proposal -to make a second collection had to be abandoned. - -Severe economy was naturally the order of the day. The only recorded -example of public extravagance during this period is an order that, -as the chairs in the Council Chamber were too hard for the comfort of -the Councillors, they should be padded; and even this outlay may have -been due to a desire to find work for those who needed it. On the other -hand, the indications of distress are numerous and startling. - -One such indication is furnished by the report of a debate of the -Venerable Company of Pastors. It was proposed that a deputation should -wait upon the magistrates ‘to inform them how scantily they provide for -their clergy in times when everything is dear, the fact being that even -ministers with no families but only wives to support are absolutely -unable to live upon their salaries.’ But the proposal was rejected on -the ground that the magistrates were already aware of the distress -of the clergy, and could do little to help them, and that it would -never do for it to be said that the clergy had applied for increased -emoluments at a time of general impoverishment. ‘It is better,’ the -resolution continued, ‘to endure our sufferings, leaving it to God to -relieve them when it seems good to Him; but if any of our brethren are -too hard pressed, they may declare their condition to the magistrates, -and ask assistance from them privately.’ - -Still more sorrowful was the case of the immigrant pastors from France, -who had no wages. The magistrates distributed a certain amount of -money among them, and advised them that, as no more was likely to be -forthcoming, they would be wise to lay out a part of it in learning a -business or a trade. Their reply is worth preserving: - -‘For several weeks,’ they said, ‘their position had been very painful; -they felt their indebtedness to the Genevans the more acutely because -no one reminded them of it; and they had decided to do with as little -as possible to eat until the spring, when they hoped to have better -news from their own country.’ - -[Illustration: LA ROCHE, HTE. SAVOIE] - - - - -CHAPTER X - -WAR WITH SAVOY - - -The situation righted itself by degrees, with the help of subscriptions -from other Swiss cities; but then there was another deadly peril to be -faced. The pretensions of Savoy were not yet extinguished. The Duke was -still determined to capture Geneva, whether by violence or by stealth, -believing that the act would be equally advantageous to the Church and -to himself. Two attempts to ‘rush’ the town in time of peace--once by -means of soldiers who were to enter concealed in barges laden with -wood, and once by means of armed men disguised as muleteers--induced -the Council to meet and resolve to ‘ask the advice of God and M. de -Bèze’; and, from 1589 onwards, there was open war, in which 2,186 -Genevans held their own against 18,000 Savoyards. - -The atrocities committed by the Savoyard soldiers were numerous and -terrible. We read of one prisoner of war being skinned alive; of -another who, with his feet amputated, was driven about on a donkey with -his face to the tail, and then flung on a dunghill to die. We also read -of peasants being hung up to be roasted alive over the fire-places in -their own cottages. It is not wonderful that the Genevan soldiers held -that this sort of thing gave them the right to retaliate, at least by -pillaging, when they gained the upper hand. The wonderful thing is -that, when they did pillage, M. de Bèze called them to order, and was -listened to. He told them that they were degrading Geneva to the level -of a brigand’s cave, and bade them make instant restitution of the -plunder which they had taken from the peasantry. It is recorded that -they obeyed him, and there could be no better proof that M. de Bèze was -a strong man. - -These hostilities came to an end in 1589, owing to the intervention of -Henri IV. of France; but the peril was not conjured. Baffled in the -field, Duke Charles Emmanuel fell back upon treachery, and planned the -adventure known to history as the Escalade. It is the most notable -episode in all the Genevan annals. Fragments of scaling-ladders, kept -as memorials of the ignominious failure of the enterprise, are still -proudly exhibited in one of the town museums. The story must be told at -length. - - - - -CHAPTER XI - -THE ESCALADE - - -The time was December, 1602. Duke Charles Emmanuel had secretly crossed -the mountains, and established his head-quarters at Etrembières; a -sufficient army had been quietly mobilized; there were 800 Savoyards, -1,000 Spaniards, 400 Neapolitans, and 4,000 Piedmontese at Bonne, La -Roche, Bonneville, and other places near Geneva. The Duke had also -been at pains to allay suspicion by assuring the Genevans, through his -agents, that he desired nothing more than to be on friendly terms with -them. But at midnight of December 12 he set his troops in motion. - -A storming-party of some two hundred men led the way, under the -command of M. Berlonière, who had extreme unction administered to -him ostentatiously before he started. The main body of 4,000 men was -to follow under Lieutenant-General d’Albigni. Acting on information -received, the storming-party struck the Corraterie rampart at a point -where there was no sentinel on the look-out for them. They carried with -them faggots and hurdles to help them over the moat, ladders that could -be dovetailed together to scale the rampart with, and axes and crowbars -for breaking down or forcing gates. A Scotch Jesuit, named Alexander, -gave them his benediction as they climbed, and handed to every man an -amulet which purported to guarantee him in the first instance against -being killed, and in the second instance against being damned eternally -if he were killed. - -Fortune at first smiled upon their efforts. They succeeded in attaining -the rampart unobserved, and kept quiet, waiting for d’Albigni and -the dawn. A single sentinel whom they met was slain in silence. But -presently a small company of the watch passed by upon its rounds. -Upon these, too, the soldiers flung themselves, and most of them were -quickly pitched over into the moat. One gun went off, however, and -one man managed to escape. He was the drummer, and he ran along the -rampart, drumming as he went, as far as the Porte de la Monnaie. It -was enough. The alarm was given. The invaders saw that they must fight -in the dark, instead of waiting for the dawn. ‘_Vive Espagne!_’ they -shouted. ‘_Ville gagnée! Tue, Tue!_’ and dashed down into the streets, -expecting d’Albigni and his 4,000 men to follow them. - -But this was what d’Albigni and his 4,000 men could not do. Chance--or -the hand of Providence--had interfered to save Geneva. A message to say -that the city was as good as captured had already been sent off to the -Duke of Savoy at Etrembières; and the Duke was dispatching couriers -to announce his victory at all the Courts of Europe. But it happened -that the Genevans at the Porte Neuve loaded a cannon to the muzzle -with chains, and any other old iron that came to hand, and fired it in -a direction parallel with the rampart. Had the aim been bad, Geneva -would have fallen that night beyond a doubt. But the aim was good, and -the shot broke the ladders into pieces, so that no one could climb by -them any more; and there was Lieutenant-General d’Albigni with his -army helpless in the moat, while the storming party was caught in a -trap within the walls. The citizens snatched up their weapons, and -hurried down, half dressed, to give them battle in the dark. Their -pastor, Simon Goulart,[A] who wrote a jubilant description of the -episode, declared that he himself would have been delighted to join in -the affray if only he had had a coat of mail. A worthy woman, who was -making soup for an early breakfast, flung the scalding fluid, saucepan -and all, out of window on to the heads of the intruders. Other missiles -were showered upon them from other windows; while the number of armed -men who faced them in the open steadily increased. In the end, after -inflicting upon the Genevans a loss of seventeen killed and twenty -wounded, they were swept back into the moat, leaving many dead and -thirteen prisoners behind them. - - [A] Simon Goulart (1543-1628) was a Frenchman, who accepted the - Reformation in 1565, and came to Geneva in 1566. In 1572 he - was made pastor of the Church of St. Gervais. After the death - of M. de Bèze he became President of the Venerable Company. - He wrote more than fifty books on various subjects. - -[Illustration: THE CASTLE OF ETREMBIÈRES, HTE. SAVOIE] - -‘_Misérable butor, vous avez fait une belle cacade_’--‘Blockhead, you -have made a pretty mess of it’--was Charles Emmanuel’s greeting to -d’Albigni when he heard the truth; and with that he mounted his horse -and rode away to Turin, without even troubling to hear the fate of his -prisoners. These, it should be added, were all beheaded in the course -of the next day; while the heads of those who had been killed were -collected and spiked, as an ornament to the ramparts and a terror -to evil-doers. - -M. de Bèze, who was now an old man and very deaf, had slept through the -fighting undisturbed, and knew nothing of it until his friends told -him the story the next morning. Though he had now retired from the -active duties of the pastorate, he dressed himself and went down to the -Cathedral of St. Pierre, where he mounted the pulpit stairs and called -upon the congregation to sing Psalm cxxiv.--the Psalm which begins: - - ‘If the Lord Himself had not been on our side, now may Israel say: - if the Lord Himself had not been on our side, when men rose up - against us.’ - -The Psalm which ends: - - ‘Our soul is escaped, even as a bird out of the snare of the - fowler: the snare is broken, and we are delivered. - - ‘Our help standeth in the name of the Lord: who hath made heaven - and earth.’ - -It was the old Reformer’s last public appearance--and a fitting one, -giving as it does the last dramatic touch to the most dramatic incident -in Genevan annals. He lived until 1605, but he was growing feebler -and feebler. He suffered from no actual malady, but it was obvious to -all that the light was flickering out. His intellect, however, was -clear until the last, and the picture of his last days, drawn by his -biographer, Antoine La Faye, recalls Bunyan’s picture of the Christian -pilgrims waiting in the Land of Beulah for their summons to cross the -river to the shining city. - -The Venerable Company of Pastors in conclave resolved that no day -should be allowed to pass without at least two of their number paying -him a visit. For the rest he found his pleasure in reading grave and -pious colloquies and sermons, and particularly in those words of -Augustine: ‘Long have I lived; long have I sinned. Blessed be the name -of the Lord!’ And, at the last, ‘without pain, and without a struggle, -all his senses, as it seemed, failing him simultaneously, in one single -instant, he gave back his soul to God, his bodily pilgrimage having -lasted eighty-six years, three months, and nine days, and forty of his -years having been spent in the holy office of the ministry.’ - -‘M. de Bèze,’ La Faye continues, ‘was a man of sturdy build, -conspicuous beauty, and health so vigorous that he often said that he -did not know the meaning of a headache. He displayed high talents, -accurate judgment, a tenacious memory, and remarkable eloquence, while -in courtesy of manner he was second to no one. In view of the great -gifts thus recited, and his great age (though these are things less to -be regarded than his learning and his piety), many used to speak of M. -de Bèze as the Phœnix of his time.’ - - - - -CHAPTER XII - -AN INTERVAL OF QUIET - - -M. de Bèze was succeeded in the Presidency of the Venerable Company -of Pastors by Simon Goulart--the warrior whom we have seen excusing -himself for not fighting against the Duke of Savoy on the ground that -he had no coat of mail. In his new office, however, Simon needed no -armour, for the period from the Escalade of 1603 to the Revocation of -the Edict of Nantes in 1685 was quiet and uneventful. The great name -of the epoch was that of Jean Diodati, Milton’s friend, the theologian -who pulverized the Arminians at the Synod of Dordrecht. Other names -are those of Trembley, Tronchin, Turretini, and Calendrini; and -there is not a name among them which need detain us. The town was at -peace with its neighbours; commerce and industry flourished; and the -ecclesiastical discipline gradually lost its grip upon the city, or -was, at least, restricted to a narrower field of usefulness. We hear of -a good many new sumptuary laws, but we also gather that many of them -were only a means of accentuating class distinctions, and that there -was a growing difficulty in enforcing them. We find persons burnt alive -for witchcraft at the beginning of the period, but not towards the end -of it; we hear of doubts diffusing themselves as to the efficacy of -torture in extracting the truth from witnesses; and we find even heresy -dealt with less rigorously than of old. A heretic who was sentenced -to be ‘strangled in the usual manner’ had the sentence, without -difficulty, commuted into one of ten years’ banishment. - -[Illustration: NYON CASTLE, LOOKING ACROSS THE LAKE TO MONT BLANC] - -The Revocation of the Edict of Nantes inevitably brought a fresh flood -of immigrants--1,450 in a single week, 800 in a single day--but Geneva -was by no means disposed to welcome them so hospitably as in the time -of M. de Bèze. Seventy years of prosperity had sapped some of the -primitive virtues of the people; they had conceived a dread of foreign -competition, and of the pauper alien, even though the pauper alien was -an exile for conscience’ sake. Their disposition was rather to seek -excuses for passing the pauper aliens on, and make them chargeable upon -the hospitality of their Swiss allies, or of the Germans or the Dutch. -To some extent they succeeded; but a considerable number of the -immigrants settled in the town in spite of the political disabilities -imposed upon them, and soon became a source of trouble. All through the -eighteenth century--or at all events from 1707 until 1794--there was -intermittent political turmoil. A detailed account of the agitations -and disturbances hardly falls within the scope of such a work as the -present; but it may be as well to sum them up, and describe their -general character. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII - -REVOLUTIONS - - -The Transvaal troubles which culminated in the South African War -may furnish an analogy which will help to make the situation clear; -the story being, in fact, a long story of acrimonious relations -between Burghers and Uitlanders. The Burghers were, in the main, -the descendants of the families already possessed of the rights -of citizenship in the half-century following the Reformation; the -Uitlanders were the descendants of immigrants who had settled in the -city since that period. The Burghers enjoyed political rights, and -the Uitlanders did not; the gulf between the two classes was only -occasionally passed by an exceptional Uitlander whom the Burghers -considered ‘fit.’ By degrees, however, the Uitlanders became more -numerous than the Burghers, and a form of government which had been a -democracy became an oligarchy, in which many of the most intelligent -and reputable citizens had no voice. - -For a time the system worked well enough, or at all events worked -without any outward signs of friction; but throughout the eighteenth -century friction was constantly occurring, and insurrections, described -by some historians as revolutions, broke out at intervals. There were -revolutions of sorts in 1707, in 1737, in 1766, in 1782, and in 1789, -with minor revolutions intervening. The recognized mode of composing -the troubles was to invite the mediation of foreign Powers, and -more particularly of France. The first step of the French mediator -was generally, as we shall see, to demand that a theatre should be -opened and a company of comedians installed in it for his diversion. -But he also mediated, the result of his mediation being to arrange a -compromise between the rival claims. Each compromise did something -to improve the position of the Uitlanders; but no compromise really -removed their grievances or satisfied their claims. - -This brings us to the date of the French Revolution, which, as was -inevitable in the circumstances, had its very audible repercussion -at Geneva. The doctrine that ‘all men are equal before the law, and -ought to enjoy the same political rights,’ was seed which fell there -upon a fruitful soil. As might have been expected, French methods of -propagandism were imitated, and Jacobinical clubs were formed--the -Sans-culottes, the Montagnards, the Marseillais, the Égalité. The -clubmen constituted a party known as the Égaliseurs, or Equalitarians, -and demanded a new constitution, based upon the principle of the -sovereignty of the people, and the admission of all Uitlanders to the -full rights of citizenship. On the night of September 4, 1792, there -was a rising. The gates of the town were seized; the members of the -Government were arrested; a Provisional Government was proclaimed, with -the mission of drafting a new constitution on the approved democratic -lines. - -So far, so good. But the account of what follows reads like a burlesque -of the revolutionary proceedings across the frontier. The workmen left -their work, and paraded the streets in red caps, singing revolutionary -songs. The extremists banded themselves into a society styled ‘the -Tanners,’ pledged to ‘tan,’ or assault and batter, the aristocrats, -whom they called Englués, or Stick-in-the-muds, whenever and wherever -they met them taking their walks abroad. Nor did such informal acts -of violence suffice. The next step was to arrest all the aristocrats -who had not fled from the town, lock them up in the Grenier de -Chantepoulet, and improvise a revolutionary tribunal to judge them. - -[Illustration: MONTENVERS AND AIGUILLES VERTE AND DRU] - -The proceedings of the tribunal were conducted with true republican -_sans-gêne_. The judges sat on the bench in their shirt-sleeves, with -their pipes in their mouths and their pistols in their belts. Happily, -however, as if they were half conscious that their proceedings were -farcical, they were less murderous in their sentences than their -French models. Though 600 aristocrats were condemned, the majority -of them escaped with sentences of fines, imprisonment, or exile, and -the death sentence was only passed upon seven of them. The seven were -shot by torch-light at the Bastions; and then the people began to be -horrified by the atrocities which they had perpetrated. There was a -reaction, a counter-revolution, and a great ceremony of reconciliation -in the cathedral. The leaders of the rival factions shook hands in the -presence of the assembled populace, and swore to forgive and forget and -work together thenceforward for the good of their common country. They -kept their oaths, and all promised well until the French Directorate -cast covetous eyes upon Geneva, found a pretext for its annexation, and -made it the capital of the new department of Leman. It remained -French until the last day of the year 1813, when Napoleon’s misfortunes -gave the citizens the opportunity of throwing off the yoke, and they -sought and obtained admission to the Swiss Confederation. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV - -LITERATURE AND SCIENCE - - -It has been remarked as curious that the Age of Revolution at Geneva -was also the Golden Age--if not of Genevan literature, which has never -really had any Golden Age, at least of Genevan science, which was of -world-wide renown. The explanation probably is that these Genevan -revolutions, over which the Genevan historians have spilt such a -quantity of ink, were not such very important matters after all. So far -as one can make out, the graver of them were hardly more grave than the -Peterloo massacre, while the less grave hardly attain to the gravity of -the Bloody Sunday Riots. A man of letters who took part in one of them -on the losing side might suffer unpleasant consequences. He might have -his writings burnt by the common hangman, as Bérenger’s were; he might -be driven into exile, as were de Lolme, who went to London, where he -wrote his famous work on the British Constitution, and d’Ivernois, who -went to Paris and became one of the most pungent critics of republican -administration and finance. Such things might happen, and in many cases -did. But there were no such violent or such continual disturbances as -need take up the whole of a literary man’s time, or prevent him from -getting on with his work. - -The period, at any rate, is one in which notable names meet us at -every turn. There were exiled Genevans, like de Lolme, holding their -own in foreign political and intellectual circles; there were emigrant -Genevan pastors holding aloft the lamps of culture and piety in many -cities of England, France, Russia, Germany, and Denmark; there were -Genevans, like François Lefort, holding the highest offices in the -service of foreign rulers; and there were numbers of Genevans at Geneva -of whom the cultivated grand tourist wrote in the tone of a disciple -writing of his master. One cannot glance at the history of the period -without lighting upon names of note in almost all departments of -endeavour. The period is that of de Saussure, Bourrit, the de Lucs, -the two Hubers, great authorities respectively on bees and birds; Le -Sage, who was one of Gibbon’s rivals for the heart of Mademoiselle -Suzanne Curchod; Senebier, the librarian who wrote the first literary -history of Geneva; St. Ours and Arlaud, the painters; Charles Bonnet, -the entomologist; Bérenger and Picot, the historians; Tronchin, -the physician; Trembley and Jallabert, the mathematicians; Dentan, -minister and Alpine explorer; Pictet, the editor of the _Bibliothèque -Universelle_, still the leading Swiss literary review; and Odier, who -taught Geneva the virtue of vaccination. - -It is obviously impossible to dwell at length upon the careers of -all these eminent men. As well might one attempt, in a survey on the -same scale of English literature, to discuss in detail the careers of -all the celebrities of the age of Anne. One can do little more than -remark that the list is marvellously strong for a town of some 30,000 -inhabitants, and that many of the names included in it are not only -eminent, but interesting. Jean André de Luc, for example, has a double -claim upon our attention as the inventor of the hygrometer and as the -pioneer of the snow-peaks. He climbed the Buet as early as 1770, and -wrote an account of his adventures on its summit and its slopes which -has the true charm of Arcadian simplicity. He came to England, was -appointed reader to Queen Charlotte, and lived in the enjoyment of that -office, and in the gratifying knowledge that Her Majesty kept his -presentation hygrometer in her private apartments, to the venerable age -of ninety. - -Bourrit is another interesting character--being, in fact, the spiritual -ancestor of the modern Alpine Clubman. By profession he was Precentor -of the Cathedral; but his heart was in the mountains. In the summer -he climbed them, and in the winter he wrote books about them. One of -his books was translated into English; and the list of subscribers, -published with the translation, shows that the public which Bourrit -addressed included Edmund Burke, Sir Joseph Banks, Bartolozzi, Fanny -Burney, Angelica Kauffman, David Garrick, Sir Joshua Reynolds, George -Augustus Selwyn, Jonas Hanway, and Dr. Johnson. His writings earned -him the honourable title of Historian (or Historiographer) of the -Alps. Men of science wrote him letters; princes engaged upon the grand -tour called to see him; princesses sent him presents as tokens of -their admiration and regard for the man who had taught them how the -contemplation of mountain scenery might exalt the sentiments of the -human mind. - -[Illustration: THE JURA RANGE FROM THONON, HTE. SAVOIE] - -Tronchin, too, is interesting; he was the first physician who -recognized the therapeutic use of fresh air and exercise, hygienic -boots, and open windows. And so is Charles Bonnet, who was not afraid -to stand up for orthodoxy against Voltaire; and so is Mallet, who -travelled as far as Lapland. But space forbids any long examination -of their achievements. The most that one can do is to illustrate the -epoch by narrating the events of one career; and the career selected -must of necessity be that of the man of whom his contemporaries always -spoke, with the reverence of hero-worshippers, as ‘the illustrious de -Saussure.’ - - - - -CHAPTER XV - -SAUSSURE - - -Horace Benedict de Saussure, who, like so many eminent Genevans, -was of French extraction, was born in 1740. Nominally, his work in -life, entered upon at the age of twenty-two, was that of Professor -of Philosophy at the Geneva University; but his real work, continued -almost until his death, was that of the explorer, student, and exponent -of the mountains. Some time before the end he was able to boast that -he had crossed the Alps by eight different passes, made sixteen other -excursions to the centre of the range, and travelled in the Jura, -the Vosges, and the mountains of Dauphiné. His marriage--he married -young--by no means hindered him from climbing. Madame de Saussure -indeed objected, quite failing to understand his readiness to forsake -the comforts of the hearth in order to revolutionize the science of -geology. But he put his foot down in a letter which may perhaps be -read with profit by other ladies besides her to whom it was addressed: - -‘In this valley, which I had not previously visited, I have made -observations of the greatest importance, surpassing my highest hopes; -but that is not what you care about. You would sooner--God forgive me -for saying so--see me growing fat like a friar, and snoring every day -in the chimney-corner after a big dinner, than that I should achieve -immortal fame by the most sublime discoveries, at the cost of reducing -my weight by a few ounces and spending a few weeks away from you. If, -then, I continue to undertake these journeys in spite of the annoyance -they cause you, the reason is that I feel myself pledged in honour to -go on with them, and that I think it necessary to extend my knowledge -of this subject, and make my works as nearly perfect as possible. I say -to myself: Just as an officer goes out to assault the fortress when the -order is given, and just as a merchant goes to market on market-day, so -must I go to the mountain when there are observations to be made.’ - -Nor was it only in the domestic circle that de Saussure could put his -foot down if required. In one of the Genevan revolutions--that of -1782--he also showed his mettle in an energetic fashion. He was a -magistrate at the time, and one day, when he came down to the Hôtel -de Ville, he found that the popular party had risen in revolt, and -seized the building. The rioters requested him to take his place, and -exercise magisterial functions on lines which they would dictate. When -he refused, they arrested him, but released him on the following day. -Then, hearing that they proposed to search his house for arms, he -decided to resist. He, Trembley, the mathematician, his family, his -servants, and his dog, constituted the tiny garrison. They barricaded -the doors, stationed themselves at the windows armed with muskets, and -successfully defied a gang of revolutionists who came to blow them -up with hand-grenades. His assailants were reduced to threatening to -murder his friends if he did not surrender; and it was only this final -menace that brought about the capitulation of the Genevan Fort Chabrol. - -Our business here, however, is not with the politician, but with the -traveller and the man of science. His widest celebrity is no doubt due -to his famous ascent of Mont Blanc. If he was not the first man to -climb that mountain, he was, at any rate, the first to believe that -it could be climbed. Bourrit, as late as 1773, had written of ‘the -absolute impossibility of attaining to its summit.’ De Saussure, as -early as 1760, had offered a reward to anyone who could find a way to -the top, and undertaken to pay a day’s wages to anyone who tried and -failed. The reward was not claimed until twenty-six years later, when -Jacques Balmat got it. When the way was found, de Saussure, though -now forty-seven years of age, at once made haste to follow it. His -ascent--the third--was accomplished on August 3, 1787; he published a -short pamphlet, giving an account of it, in the course of the same year. - -[Illustration: THE AIGUILLE AND DÔME DU GOÛTER, MONT BLANC] - -The climb was, beyond question, a great feat for a philosopher of -forty-seven, and it brought the name of de Saussure under the notice -of thousands of people who would never otherwise have heard of him. A -still greater feat, accomplished a little later, was the camping out, -for something over a fortnight, on the Col du Géant. But it is not -upon either of these feats that de Saussure’s real fame reposes. He is -reckoned among great men partly because he was the first student of -geology who knew his business, and partly because he is the only Alpine -writer of his period whose works have stood the test of time. - -The geologists who preceded him fall into two classes. There were the -mere fossilizers, who had about as much claim to be considered men of -science as have the stamp-collectors of the present day; there were -the theorists who geologized, so to say, in the air, threw out hasty -generalizations from their studies, and thought it beneath their -dignity as philosophers to correct these hypotheses by the further -observation of phenomena. De Saussure combined their methods. His life -was one long, patient study of geological phenomena. But he collected -in order to collate; his aim was always to see the part in its relation -to the whole, the particular in its relation to the general; and he -had a fine contempt for the amateurs who collected fossils in the same -spirit in which they might have collected pottery or bric-à-brac. - -‘The one aim,’ he wrote, ‘of most of the travellers who call -themselves naturalists is the collection of curiosities. They walk, -or rather they creep about, with their eyes fixed upon the earth, -picking up a specimen here and a specimen there, without any eye to a -generalization. They remind me of an antiquary scratching the ground -at Rome, in the midst of the Pantheon or the Coliseum, looking for -fragments of coloured glass, without ever turning to look at the -architecture of these magnificent edifices.’ - -The most remarkable thing, however, is that de Saussure, being a -geologist, should have been a stylist. He certainly never meant to -be one. He would never have written a book merely to show his skill -in word-painting; his one purpose in writing was to communicate -discoveries of importance. At the time when Bourrit was making himself -famous by his picturesque descriptions of the Alps, the greater man -wrote to him modestly: ‘I too have an idea of publishing something -on the natural history of these mountains. It is with that end in -view that I have been studying them for so many years.’ And in the -introduction of his great work, he apologizes for what seems to him -the baldness of his style: ‘More practised in climbing rocks than in -polishing phrases, I have attempted nothing more than to render clearly -the objects which I have seen, and the impressions which I have felt.’ - -It was an apology offered without affectation or false modesty. It -announced a departure from the literary fashion of the day, which was -to write of the mountains in the language of high-flown sentiment. -Rousseau had set the fashion; Ramond de Carbonnière, the philosopher -of the Pyrenees, was ready to carry it on; de Luc and Bourrit were -doing what they could. De Saussure wished to announce himself as the -disciple of none of these, but as the plain man who had made a careful -study of his subject, and wished to be heard because of what he had to -say and not because of his manner of saying it. He hardly understood -that he was, in the full sense of the word, a man of letters--a -literary artist. That is a point which has since been settled in his -favour by his readers. - -He might easily have written a treatise that would have been invaluable -to specialists and intolerable to everyone else. Guided by a sure -instinct, he preferred to write the narrative of his journeys, taking -the reader, as it were, by the hand, making him his confidant, showing -him his discoveries in the order in which he makes them, and so luring -him on to take an interest in a subject generally accounted dull. -And, though his first care was always to observe, and to collate his -observations, with a view to the advancement of learning, there always -was in him something of the poet, which must out from time to time, -temporarily giving the go-by to the man of science. - -One finds this vein of poetry in the writings of most men of -science--naturally, seeing that they used gifts of imagination -differing from those of the poet only in being disciplined and -chastened, and ready to submit to the thraldom of the established fact. -Sometimes, indeed, the vein of poetry has interfered with business, -as in the case of the ingenious Scheuchzer, who laid himself out to -prove that there were dragons in the Alps, or, in a less degree, in -the case of Buffon. But, whether it interferes with business or not, -there the vein of poetry almost always is. Such old men of science as -Conrad Gesner, and such modern men of science as Huxley and Tyndall, -have shown us with what striking effect it can be worked. It is because -de Saussure worked it so well that his writings still live, though, -regarded merely as textbooks, they have long since been superseded. - -The humanity of the man is continually flashing out at us in the -reflections and anecdotes with which he illustrates the manners of the -strange peoples in the strange places which he visited. Sometimes it is -a flash of humour, as when he inquires the motives that impel men to -be chamois-hunters, a trade that never pays. ‘It is the dangers,’ he -concludes; ‘the constant alternation of hopes and fears, the continual -emotion thus engendered, which excite the hunter, just as they excite -the gambler, the soldier, the navigator, and even, to a certain extent, -the naturalist of the Alps.’ - -Sometimes it is a touch of pathos, as in the story of the old woman of -Argentière whose father, husband, and brothers had all perished, within -a few days, from an epidemic: - -‘After she had given me some milk, she asked me where I came from, and -what I was doing there at that season of the year. When she knew that -I was from Geneva, she told me that she could not believe that all -the Protestants were to be damned; that God was too good and too just -to condemn us all without distinction. Then, after reflecting for a -moment, she shook her head and added: “But what is so strange to me is -that of all those who have been taken away from us, not one has ever -come back. I,” she went on, with a look of pain “have wept so for my -husband and my brothers, and have never ceased to think of them, and -every night I implore them to tell me where they are, and whether they -are happy. Surely, if they existed anywhere, they would not leave me in -this doubt. But perhaps,” she went on, “it is because I am not worthy -of this favour. Perhaps the pure and innocent souls of those children -there”--she pointed to the cradle as she spoke--“are conscious of their -presence, and enjoy a happiness that is denied to me.”’ - -Truly a wonderful passage to find embedded in a valuable and solid -treatise on geology. Ramond never surpassed it though he laid himself -out to do so, and--in his earlier works, at all events--never allowed -geological considerations to stand in the way of sentiment. - -It is sad to relate that, after having made himself known to all Europe -as ‘the illustrious de Saussure,’ the pioneer of geological discovery -fell upon evil days. But so it was. His health broke down; in 1794 -he began to have paralytic strokes. His fortune--the greater part of -it, at all events--was lost through the collapse of securities during -the French Revolution. He was on the side that suffered most in the -political disturbances which the Revolution engendered at Geneva. - -In the midst of those disturbances, his father-in-law, Charles Bonnet, -died, and de Saussure, himself almost to be reckoned a dying man, was -called upon to pronounce his public eulogium. But the disturbances made -it necessary for the ceremony to be postponed. A letter in which Madame -de Saussure narrates the incident gives us a clear impression not only -of the day, but also of the times of which the day was representative. - -‘Yesterday,’ she writes, ‘I spent one of those days of emotion which do -not affect us the less because we ought to be getting used to them. The -people took up arms by order of the Committees of the Clubs. The gates -were shut, the cannon rumbled along the streets, screaming women leant -out of their windows to look. In the evening the town had that military -air which you have sometimes seen in it--the streets full of armed -citizens with flaming torches, patrols challenging the passers-by--and -all this lasted till two or three in the morning; whereas to-day, -everyone is at his shop, his café, or his office. And this tumultuous -day had been selected for the celebration of the memory of the most -peaceable of citizens--your uncle, Charles Bonnet.’ - -And so, amid such sorry scenes, the end approached. De Saussure sought -relief and health in travel. He took the waters at Plombières, but -without any good result, and died early in 1799, the great Cuvier -pronouncing his eulogy before the Institut de France. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI - -MEN OF LETTERS - - -We have spoken of the literature of science. In the literature which is -an art, and an end in itself, Geneva never excelled; and if we look for -reasons, we can find several. - -The first difficulty was with the language. French came to the -Genevans as a foreign tongue at a time when their men of learning -wrote Latin and their populace spoke a Savoyard patois; and, even to -the present day, few of them avoid a certain provincial awkwardness -in the handling of it. Anyone who wishes to see the proof has only to -compare the _Journal de Genève_ with the _Gil Blas_ or the _Figaro_. -The few stylists whom Geneva can claim have generally been of French -extraction, like Marc Monnier, or have lived abroad, like Rousseau -and Madame de Staël. A far more typical Genevan writer was Charles -Bonnet whose perplexing circumlocutions swamp his elevated sentiments -and effectively prevent his books from being read. There is also, of -course, Amiel; but even ‘Roulez, tambours’ is tolerably obvious; while -the trail of the _cliché_ lies even over that famous ‘Journal Intime’ -which Mrs. Humphry Ward translated. - -Another difficulty was the vexatious censorship exercised by Town -Councillors, whose views of literature were parochial. Even Agrippa -d’Aubigné, with all his fame and merit, was pursued by their suspicions -both during his lifetime and after his death. The printer of one -of his works was imprisoned and fined for issuing from his press a -book alleged to contain ‘much impious and blasphemous matter which -scandalizes well-conducted persons’; while, after his decease, his -papers were sent for, to be inspected by public officials. ‘Anything -composed by the defunct,’ it was decided, ‘during his residence in this -State must be suppressed, but anything composed on other territory may -be restored to his heirs.’ Literary decorum may have been insured by -such measures; but they were not calculated to encourage originality, -and it is not surprising that we search Genevan annals in vain for -distinguished literary names. - -[Illustration: THE STATUE OF JEAN-JACQUES ROUSSEAU ON THE ISLAND IN THE -RHONE, GENEVA, FROM HOTEL DES BERGUES] - -The name of which the Genevans are proudest is probably that of -Rousseau, who has sometimes been spoken of as ‘the austere citizen of -Geneva.’ But ‘austere’ is a strange epithet to apply to the philosopher -who endowed the Foundling Hospital with five illegitimate children; -and Geneva cannot claim a great share in a citizen who ran away from -the town in his boyhood to avoid being thrashed for stealing apples. -It was, indeed, at Geneva that Jean Jacques received from his aunt the -disciplinary chastisement of which he gives such an exciting account -in his ‘Confessions’; and he once returned to the city and received -the Holy Communion there in later life. But that is all. Jean Jacques -was not educated at Geneva, but in Savoy--at Annecy, at Turin, and at -Chambéry; his books were not printed at Geneva, though one of them was -publicly burnt there, but in Paris and Amsterdam; it is not to Genevan -but to French literature that he belongs. And when Jean Jacques has -been named, there remains no other Genevan citizen of letters worthy to -be mentioned in the same paragraph. So that branch of the subject may -be left. - - - - -CHAPTER XVII - -SONGS AND SQUIBS - - -Perhaps it is in song and satire that Geneva has done best. ‘Roulez, -tambours,’ is not the only Genevan song that has passed the Genevan -frontier; and Geneva, in fact, has always been ready to burst into -song, whether serious or sarcastic, in connection with the topics of -the day. The Reformation itself was heralded by satirical verses. -A species of burlesque entitled a ‘sottie’ was, in those days, a -favourite form of entertainment. The general character of these -compositions may be gathered from the following scrap of dialogue, -contained in one of them, between the _Physician_ and the _World_: - - ‘_Physician._ So that is what upsets your mind, - And you are not upset to find - Church benefices bought and sold - By hungry thieves in quest of gold? - Or babies on their mothers’ knee - Appointed to a Bishop’s See? - While haughty Churchmen, as they please, - The goods of any neighbour seize, - And go to war on small pretext-- - Whereby all Christian men are vext. - _The World._ From Luther’s land these plaints arise; - We’re told they are a pack of lies. - _Physician._ Whatever the abuse you ban, - They call you, now, a Lutheran.’ - -The flood-gates of poetry were opened afresh by the failure of the -Escalade. Even the octogenarian M. de Bèze composed a song on that -occasion: - - ‘Peuple Genevois, - Elève ta voix - Pour psalmodier - De Dieu, l’assistance, - Et la délivrance - Que vit avant-hier!’ - -Other poets followed the pastor’s example by the score. For years--for -decades even--they mocked in verse at the enemy whom they had put to -shame. When, at last, they were silent, the revolutionary movement of -the eighteenth century produced its harvest of squibs; and then we come -to the Restoration, and the religious revival known as the Réveil, -which also produced considerable literary repercussions. - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII - -RELIGIOUS REVIVAL - - -‘Réveil’ is Swiss for Revivalism. The movement was the Genevan analogue -of our Wesleyan Methodism, though it did not begin till more than -five-and-twenty years after John Wesley’s death. The originator of it -was the Scotch evangelist, Robert Haldane. He came to Geneva, made the -acquaintance of the theological students, and was surprised and shocked. - -‘Had they been trained,’ he writes, ‘in the schools of Socrates or -Plato, and enjoyed no other means of instruction, they could scarcely -have been more ignorant of the doctrines of the Gospel. To the -Bible and its contents their studies had never been directed. After -some conversation, they became convinced of their ignorance of the -Scriptures, and of the way of salvation, and exceedingly desirous of -information.’ - -The young men fell into a habit of dropping in upon Mr. Haldane, at all -hours of the day and night, to talk over the mysteries of revealed -religion. He decided to organize his efforts for their evangelization, -take them in classes three nights a week, and expound the Epistle to -the Romans. His influence over them was the more remarkable because -he was, at first, obliged to converse with them by means of an -interpreter. And he had remarkable men among his pupils: Adolphe Monod, -of Paris; Félix Neff, the Alpine missionary; and Merle d’Aubigné, the -historian of the Reformation. A friend, too old to be his pupil, and -already of his way of thinking, was Cæsar Malan, the hymnodist. - -[Illustration: THE HEAD OF LAKE ANNECY HTE. SAVOIE] - -The movement thus inaugurated was, it may be presumed, neither wholly -good nor wholly bad. No doubt it was well for the old-fashioned -Calvinists to be shaken out of their old-fashioned formalism, and -taught to regard religion, not as the placid and docile acceptance of -a theological code, but as the special experience of the individual -soul. The history of religion is the history of such reactions against -formalism; and, on the whole, they make for progress. But revivalists, -being only human after all, have, like other people, their besetting -sins. They are prone to hypocrisy, to spiritual pride, to sour -austerity, to the passing of uncharitable judgments on their -neighbours, and to the unwarranted assumption of the right to cast the -first stone at sinners. - -These vices of the revivalists attracted the attention of that -section of young Geneva which was not absorbed in the contemplation -of their virtues. They disliked to see them stand at the corners of -the market-place and, for a pretence, make long prayers. They took the -same line towards them as was taken towards Calvin and Farel by those -earlier Friends of Liberty who demanded permission to ‘live as they -chose without reference to what was said by the preachers’; and they -chiefly expressed themselves in verse. They formed a club--the Caveau -Genevois; and though the waters of oblivion have swept over most of -their writings, they were the choice spirits of the Geneva of their -time, and one of them has left us a graphic word-picture of their -meetings: - -‘Our gathering, to which every member was expected to contribute a -new song or a new air, took place irregularly, and in various places. -Sometimes we met on the beautiful banks of our lake, at Cologny, on the -terrace of the Hotel du Lion d’Or. We used to come home arm-in-arm, -larking and singing, good friends and jolly fellows, ready to begin -again those charming scenes which politics never troubled, and in -which music, poetry, and joy--those crowns of harmony and loyal -friendship--reigned alone.’ - -And one at least of their songs still lives--the song written by J. F. -Chaponnière, which opens thus: - - ‘Qu’il est beau ce mandement - De monsieur le grand Vicaire; - Sa pastorale, vraiment - A tout bon dévot doit plaire, - Car il dit à son troupeau: - “S’il est du mal sur la terre, - _C’est la faute de Voltaire, - C’est la faute de Rousseau_.”’ - - - - -CHAPTER XIX - -ROMANTICISM - - -About 1830 the Caveau Genevois broke up. Some of its members were dead, -some had left Geneva, some were growing too old for poetry, and some -were going in for politics. But as the old school faded away, a new -school--the Romantic School--was dawning. Poets arose who acknowledged -Lamartine for their father and Victor Hugo for their elder brother. -They are not really important, but Marc Monnier, in ‘Genève et ses -Poètes,’ has made them intensely interesting. The greatest poet among -them was Etienne Gide, Professor of Law at the University. Most -students of French poetry have by heart that song of his which runs: - - ‘C’est un frais sentier plein d’une ombre amoureuse, - L’on n’y passait que deux en se tenant la main; - Nous le suivions ensemble en la saison heureuse, - Mais je n’ai plus dès lors retrouvé ce chemin. - - ‘C’est qu’il faut être deux pour ce pélérinage; - C’est que le frais sentier n’a d’aspect enchanteur, - De gazon et de fleurs, de parfum et d’ombrage, - Qu’alors que sur son cœur on presse un autre cœur. - - ‘J’ai vu bien des beaux lieus, de bien riantes plages, - Les bords où croît l’olive, où fleurit l’oranger, - Des lacs unis et purs ou passent les nuages, - Des sites merveilleux, charme de l’étranger. - - ‘Mais en vain j’ai cherché sur cette heureuse terre, - A travers ses vallons, ses bois et ses sentiers; - Je ne l’ai plus revu ce sentier solitaire - Ou deux amants passaient le long des églantiers. - - ‘C’est que le beaux sentier n’est plus q’une chimère, - Un songe, une ombre vaine, un souvenir chéri; - C’est qu’après le bonheur vient la douleur amère, - Que la source était vive et que l’onde a tari. - - ‘C’est que la feuille tombe et que la flamme baisse, - Qu’aux roses sur nos fronts succède le linceul, - Que notre cœur s’attache et qu’après il delaisse, - C’est que l’on était deux et que l’on reste seul. - - ‘Qui de nous, du passé refaisant le voyage, - Ne voit en souvenir, à travers le chemin, - Quelque désert fleuri, quelque paisible ombrage. - Ou le bonheur s’assit auprès du pélerin. - - ‘Au désert de la vie, oasis fortunées, - Deux souvenirs épars dans l’ombre de nos jours, - Astres qui vont baissant au déclin des années, - Mais dont l’éclat lointain nous enchante toujours.’ - -[Illustration: NERNIER, HTE. SAVOIE] - -Another notable man--more notable as a man than a poet--was Petit-Senn, -who lived to a patriarchal age and was a member of all the -literary groups in succession. He is sometimes spoken of as a Genevan -Voltaire; and he resembled Voltaire in living a little way out of -the town, yet in touch with its intellectual life, and receiving -the homage of a constant stream of admiring pilgrims; but he is -even better entitled to be styled the Genevan Mæcænas. Possessed of -something more than a modest competence, he opened his purse freely -to the poorer poets, not only relieving their necessities, but paying -for the publication of their works. His ‘Miliciade’--a satire on the -amateurishness of the Genevan army--had an immense success when he gave -a reading of it in a concert-hall; and his ‘Bluettes et Boutades’ are -short sentences generally worthy of being ranked with epigrams. We may -cull a few of them: - - ‘In the eyes of the world, however one may have made one’s money, - one has done better than if one had lost it. - - ‘The egoist weeps over the story of a shipwreck at the reflection - that he might himself have been on board. - - ‘We are more ready to do justice to the dead than to the absent. - - ‘Some of the sins of youth are so agreeable that age repents of - them only in order to have an excuse for recalling them. - - ‘When a friend asks you for money, consider which of the two you - would rather lose. - - ‘The most lucrative kind of commerce would be to buy men at their - real value, and sell them at their own valuation. - - ‘If hypocrisy were to die, modesty would, at least, have to go into - half-mourning. - - ‘Let us respect white hairs ... especially our own.’ - -Petit-Senn and Etienne Gide were the poets who remained in their city. -It is characteristic of Genevan literary history that the others sought -their fortune abroad. _Trop grand poisson pour notre petit lac_ was -presumably their motto, though they were not fish who cut any very -striking figure in the lakes to which they repaired. Charles Didier -was the one of them who succeeded best. He took long walking tours in -Italy, glorified the carbonari, pictured the meetings of their secret -societies in the style of ‘The Mysteries of Udolpho,’ and ultimately -acquired something of a literary position in Paris, where he was -numbered among the friends of George Sand. Imbert Galloix also went -to Paris, but fell into destitution there. Nodier helped him. ‘I send -you,’ he wrote, ‘the half of what I have in the house. It is the first -time that I blush for my poverty.’ Petit-Senn also sent him money, for -which he appealed in a very pathetic letter; but he died--a pitiful -figure, reminding one of Chatterton--at the age of twenty-one. Others -of the company were Henri Blanvalet, who for twenty years was private -tutor to the Frankfort Rothschilds--truly a sorry position for a poet; -and André Verre, who went to Russia to teach in a girls’ school, and -ultimately edited a newspaper in Buenos Ayres. None of them count. They -were merely echoes of the louder voices heard in the French _cénacle_. - - - - -CHAPTER XX - -LATER MEN OF LETTERS - - -One would be tempted, if space permitted, to say something of the -later literary luminaries of Geneva: of Amiel, the ‘virtuous Don -Juan,’ as his friends called him, who, after living rather a futile -life, acquired posthumous fame through his ‘Journal’; of Cherbuliez, -the novelist, once very popular, though now somewhat out of fashion; -of Marc Monnier, the sparkling and versatile father of Dr. Philippe -Monnier who has inherited his wit; of Toepfer, author of ‘Nouvelles -Genevoises,’ described by one critic as ‘a sort of Swiss Ally Sloper,’ -and by another as ‘a sort of Swiss Max O’Rell, with just a dash of -Mr. Barlow’; of Emile Javelle, who climbed the Alps diligently and -wrote of them poetically; of MM. Eugène Ritter and Albert de Montet, -the pillars of historical research in French Switzerland. But space -does not permit. What little space remains is claimed by certain -distinguished strangers who have shed lustre upon Geneva by living in -the neighbourhood. We must visit Voltaire at Ferney, and Madame de -Staël at Coppet. Let the patriarch come first. - - - - -CHAPTER XXI - -VOLTAIRE - - -Voltaire was sixty years of age when he settled on the shores of the -lake, where he was to remain for another four-and-twenty years; and he -did not go there for his pleasure. He would have preferred to live in -Paris, but was afraid of being locked up in the Bastille. As the great -majority of the men of letters of the reign of Louis XV. were, at one -time or another, locked up in the Bastille, his fears were probably -well founded. Moreover, notes of warning had reached his ears. ‘I dare -not ask you to dine,’ a relative said to him, ‘because you are in bad -odour at Court.’ So he betook himself to Geneva, as so many Frenchmen, -illustrious and otherwise, had done before, and acquired various -properties--at Prangins, at Lausanne, at Saint-Jean (near Geneva), at -Ferney, at Tournay, and elsewhere. - -He was welcomed cordially. Dr. Tronchin, the eminent physician, -co-operated in the legal fictions necessary to enable him to become a -landowner in the republic. Cramer, the publisher, made a proposal for -the issue of a complete and authorized edition of his works. All the -best people called. ‘It is very pleasant,’ he was able to write, ‘to -live in a country where rulers borrow your carriage to come to dinner -with you.’ Yet his desire to ‘score off’ the ministers of religion, who -no doubt struck him as pretentious persons of sluggish intellect, soon -set him at loggerheads with his hosts. - -The first trouble arose in connection with the article on Geneva -published in the encyclopædia edited by Diderot and d’Alembert. It was -in the course of a short visit to Voltaire that d’Alembert gathered -the materials for that article. He was encouraged, and afforded every -facility for pursuing his researches, alike by the ministers and by -the magistrates. ‘He is the curiosity of the town,’ a contemporary -letter-writer declared, ‘and it is quite the fashion to go and call -on him.’ In particular he was entertained by the clergy, and talked -theology with them after dinner. Their views were broad, thanks to the -influence of that eminent theologian, Turretini; probably their views -were broader after dinner than before. At all events, the encyclopædist -drew them out to his satisfaction, with the result that, when his -article appeared, and the divines made haste to read it, it was -found that their theological position was expounded in the following -startling paragraph: - -‘There is less complaint of the advance of infidelity at Geneva than -elsewhere; but that is not surprising. Religion there--unless it be -among the common people--is reduced to the worship of one God; a -certain respect for Jesus Christ and the Scriptures is, perhaps, the -only thing that distinguishes the Christianity of Geneva from pure -Deism.’ - -This in the city of Calvin. It was as though the encyclopædist had -stirred a hornets’ nest. To change the metaphor, the fat was in the -fire, and the flame blazed up at once. The Consistory met and appointed -a Commission ‘to consider what were the best steps to take in the -matter.’ The Commission deputed Dr. Tronchin to try and obtain an -apology and retraction from the offending author; and Dr. Tronchin -applied to Voltaire for help. Seeing that Voltaire had already -written to d’Alembert congratulating him on his success in arousing -the ‘murmurs of the synagogue,’ this was not a very hopeful step. -Voltaire, in fact, had inspired the statements which he was now asked -to invite his collaborator to withdraw. He temporized, enjoyed the -fun, and tampered with the truth, to keep it up. He protested that he -knew nothing about the article; that he wanted nothing but a quiet -life, for himself and for everybody else, including ‘Trinitarians, -Unitarians, Quakers, Moravians, Turks, Jews, and Chinamen.’ He also, in -the friendliest manner, warned his correspondent that, if d’Alembert -were pressed too hard, he might, instead of apologizing, prove that the -things which he had said were true. - -[Illustration: THE CHATEAU DE PRANGINS] - -‘Retractation,’ he wrote, ‘was all very well for St. Augustine; but it -will not do for him. I know his character. If your complaints get too -loud, he will quote a certain catechism by your Professor of Theology, -wherein it is said that revelation is “a thing of some utility,” and -wherein there is no single word about the holy, adorable, and invisible -Trinity. When he establishes that he has not disclosed a secret, but -has only publicly taken cognizance of an opinion publicly expressed, -you will be slightly embarrassed.’ - - - - -CHAPTER XXII - -VOLTAIRE AND THE THEATRE - - -Another bone of contention was found in Voltaire’s passionate devotion -to the theatre. His tastes were shared by the ‘advanced’ set at Geneva; -but the divines, in spite of their broad views on matters of dogmatic -theology, still held narrow views on the subject of the drama. Dramatic -performances, whether public or private, were not allowed upon Genevan -soil; while performances given close to the frontier, on the territory -of Savoy or France, caused the ministers many searchings of heart. - -There had been such performances shortly before Voltaire’s arrival--in -1751--at Carouge and Chatelaine, and the Consistory had passed a -resolution on the subject. It had decided to exhort the members of -the Council to keep their wives away from the entertainments, and to -exhort the professors to warn the students--and more particularly the -candidates for Holy Orders--not to attend them. Afterwards, hearing -that the daughters of some of the pastors had visited the theatre in -defiance of their admonitions, they had passed a further resolution to -the effect that this state of things gave ground for reflection--_qu’il -y a lieu d’y réfléchir_. - -Such was the public opinion which Voltaire braved; and his first -attempt to brave it was not very successful. Soon after his arrival he -arranged a _salle de spectacle_ inside the city walls, and organized -a performance of ‘L’Orphelin de la Chine.’ The Consistory growled out -a hostile resolution, and he dropped the enterprise, but proceeded to -educate opinion from a safe distance; that is to say, he set up his -theatre at Lausanne, and wrote insinuating letters about its management -to his friends among the Genevan pastors. We have Gibbon’s testimony -to the fact that this theatre ‘refined in a visible degree the manners -of Lausanne’; and we have a letter in which Voltaire gives the pastor, -Vernés, sound reasons for coming to witness the performances. - -‘In your quality of minister of the Gospel,’ he writes, ‘you might -very well be present at the rendering of a piece taken from the Gospel -itself, and hear the word of God from the mouth of the Marquise de -Gentil, Madame d’Aubonne, and Madame d’Hermenches, who are as worthy -women as the three Magdalens, and more respectable.’ And he adds: ‘At -the first representation we had all the ministers of the Holy Gospel in -the Town, and all the candidates for Holy Orders.’ - -It was a pretty good beginning; but there was still to be trouble and -controversy before the educational process was completed. In this -field, as in the field of theology, d’Alembert, with his encyclopædia -article, stirred Camerina. He said that it was a pity that comedy -should be neglected in such a centre of civilization, but added that -the thing that the Genevans dreaded was not the demoralizing influence -of plays, but the dissolute behaviour of players. And he suggested that -this difficulty be got over by means of stringent regulations as to the -conduct of comedians. By this means, he said, Geneva might have both -good morals and good theatres, and derive as much advantage from the -one as from the other. - -For the moment it looked as though this ingeniously ironical proposal -would escape attention, the theologians being too excited about their -impugned orthodoxy to notice anything else. Rousseau, however, saw it, -and decided to reply to it, and in due course launched his ‘Lettre sur -les Spectacles.’ Being himself a dramatic author of some note, he was -not an ideal champion of the cause which he represented; but in the -stir caused by his intervention no one seems to have thought of that. -His rhetoric made just as lively an impression as though his actions -had always been in keeping with it. The Genevans took sides; and -Voltaire--as though for the express purpose of giving them something -tangible to fight about--established a theatre close to their gates, -outside the jurisdiction of their magistrates, at Tournay. - -The battle raged furiously. To this period of Voltaire’s sojourn belong -most of his bitter sarcastic sayings about Geneva; his reference to -‘the little church of Calvin, which makes virtue consist in usury and -asceticism,’ and his famous epigram containing the lines: - - ‘On haït le bal, on haït la comédie; - Pour tout plaisir Genève psalmodie - Du bon David des antiques concerts, - Croyant que Dieu se plaît aux mauvais vers.’ - -Abuse of Jean Jacques also abounds in his letters at this period. -Jean Jacques is a ‘blackguard’; Jean Jacques is in league with two -rascally Calvinist priests, and ‘has the insolence’ to say this, that, -and the other thing; Jean Jacques is ‘valet to Diogenes,’ who ‘has -played in vain the part of an addle-pated idiot’; if Jean Jacques -comes to Ferney, he shall be stuffed into a barrel, and presumably -rolled downhill--which proves, even if it proves nothing else, that, -when philosophers fall out, they are apt to wrangle in much the same -language as less intellectual people. - -Yet, on the whole, Voltaire was steadily winning the victory. The -Council, it is true, forbade the citizens to attend his theatre; but -little attention was paid to the prohibition, and among those who -disregarded it were included many of the Councillors themselves. ‘Being -unable,’ as Petit-Senn wittily put it, ‘to remove the danger, they -bravely set out to share it’; and the philosopher chuckled: - -‘I am civilizing the Allobroges as well as I can. Before I came here -the Genevans had nothing to amuse them but bad sermons. I am corrupting -all the youth of the pedantic city. I make play-actors of the sons of -Syndics. The clergy are furious; but I crush them.’ - -After a while, moreover, his evangelistic efforts received support -from an unexpected quarter. In 1766 there were certain political -disturbances in the city, and ambassadors were sent from Berne, Zurich, -and Paris, to assist in composing them. Voltaire suggested to the -French ambassador, M. de Beauteville, that he should request admission -to the city for a company of comedians to amuse himself and his suite. -Life at Geneva being duller than he liked, M. de Beauteville adopted -the suggestion. The comedians were introduced; a theatre was arranged -for them; and Voltaire could chuckle again. The divines thundered. -‘Children,’ they declared, ‘will be badly brought up; domestic discords -will trouble families more and more; young men and young women will -occupy themselves with nothing but comedy and vainglorious display; the -love of pleasure, vanity, and pride will be their favourite emotions; -indecent familiarities and libertine behaviour will take the place of -modesty and chastity.’ - -But this warning was uttered in vain. Voltaire had triumphed; and -though he was now an old man, nearing his eightieth birthday, he -enjoyed his triumph to the full. A picture of the patriarch at the play -is graphically drawn by a letter-writer of the period: - -‘Not the least interesting feature of the spectacle was Voltaire -himself, leaning his back against the wings in full view of the -audience, applauding like a man possessed; now beating the floor with -his walking-stick, now interjecting exclamations such as “Couldn’t be -better!” “By God, how good!” and now directing the flow of sentiment by -lifting his handkerchief to his eyes. So little could he control his -enthusiasm that, at the moment when Ninias quits the scene to brave -Assue, he ran after Lekain without considering how he was breaking down -the illusion, took him by the hand, and kissed him at the back of the -stage. It would be difficult to imagine a more ridiculous burlesque; -for Voltaire looked like an old man out of a farce, dressed in a bygone -fashion, with his stockings rolled up over his knees, and only able to -keep himself on his trembling legs with the help of his stick.’ - - - - -CHAPTER XXIII - -VISITORS TO FERNEY - - -While Voltaire was vexing the citizens of Geneva, he was also enjoying -the veneration of all educated Europe, and even of educated America. -He corresponded regularly with at least four reigning sovereigns, to -say nothing of men of letters, Cardinals, and Marshals of France; and -he kept open house for travellers of mark from every country in the -world. Those of the travellers who wrote books never failed to devote a -chapter to an account of a visit to Ferney; and from the mass of such -descriptions we may select for quotation that written, in the stately -style of the period, by Dr. John Moore, author of ‘Zeluco,’ then making -the grand tour as tutor to the Duke of Hamilton. - -‘The most piercing eyes I ever beheld,’ the doctor writes, ‘are those -of Voltaire, now in his eightieth year. His whole countenance is -expressive of genius, observation, and extreme sensibility. In the -morning he has a look of anxiety and discontent; but this gradually -wears off, and after dinner he seems cheerful; yet an air of irony -never entirely forsakes his face, but may always be observed lurking -in his features whether he frowns or smiles.... Composition is his -principal amusement. No author who writes for daily bread, no young -poet ardent for distinction, is more assiduous with his pen, or more -anxious for fresh fame, than the wealthy and applauded Seigneur of -Ferney. He lives in a very hospitable manner, and takes care always to -have a good cook. He generally has two or three visitors from Paris, -who stay with him a month or six weeks at a time. When they go, their -places are soon supplied, so that there is a constant rotation of -society at Ferney. These, with Voltaire’s own family and his visitors -from Geneva, compose a company of twelve or fourteen people, who -dine daily at his table, whether he appears or not.... All who bring -recommendations from his friends may depend upon being received, if he -be not really indisposed. He often presents himself to the strangers -who assemble every afternoon in his antechamber, although they bring no -particular recommendation.’ - -[Illustration: A VAUDOISE: SUMMER] - -It might have been added that, when an interesting stranger who carried -no introduction was passing through the town, Voltaire sometimes -sent for him; but this experiment was not always a success, and failed -most ludicrously in the case of Claude Gay, the Philadelphian Quaker, -author of some theological works now forgotten, but then of note. -The meeting was only arranged with difficulty on the philosopher’s -undertaking to put a bridle on his tongue, and say nothing flippant -about holy things. He tried to keep his promise, but the temptation -was too strong for him. After a while he entangled his guest in a -controversy concerning the proceedings of the patriarchs and the -evidences of Christianity, and lost his temper on finding that his -sarcasms failed to make their usual impression. The member of the -Society of Friends, however, was not disconcerted. He rose from his -place at the dinner-table, and replied: - -‘Friend Voltaire! perhaps thou mayest come to understand these matters -rightly; in the meantime, finding I can do thee no good, I leave thee, -and so fare thee well.’ - -And so saying, he walked out and walked back to Geneva, while Voltaire -retired in dudgeon to his room, and the company sat expecting something -terrible to happen. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIV - -COPPETT - - -A word, in conclusion, about Coppet! - -Necker bought the property from his old banking partner, Thelusson, -for 500,000 livres in French money, and retired to live there when the -French Revolution drove him out of politics. His daughter, Madame de -Staël, inherited it from him, and made it famous. - -Not that she loved Switzerland; it would be more true to say that she -detested Switzerland. Swiss scenery meant nothing to her. When she was -taken for an excursion to the glaciers, she asked what the crime was -that she had to expiate by such a punishment; and she could look out on -the blue waters of Lake Leman, and sigh for ‘the gutter of the Rue du -Bac.’ Even to this day, the Swiss have hardly forgiven her for that, -or for speaking of the Canton of Vaud as the country in which she had -been ‘so intensely bored for such a number of years.’ - -What she wanted was to live in Paris, to be a leader--or, rather, to -be _the_ leader--of Parisian society, to sit in a salon, the admired -of all admirers, and to pull the wires of politics to the advantage -of her friends. For a while she succeeded in doing this. It was she -who persuaded Barras to give Talleyrand his political start in life. -But whereas Barras was willing to act on her advice, Napoleon was by -no means equally amenable to her influence. Almost from the first -he regarded her as a mischief-maker; and when a spy brought him an -intercepted letter in which Madame de Staël expressed her hope that -none of the old aristocracy of France would condescend to accept -appointments in the household of ‘the bourgeois of Corsica,’ he became -her personal enemy, and, refusing her permission to live either in the -capital or near it, practically compelled her to take refuge in her -country seat. Her pleasaunce in that way became her gilded cage. - -Perhaps she was not quite so unhappy there as she sometimes -represented. If she could not go to Paris, many distinguished and -brilliant Parisians came to Coppet, and met there many brilliant and -distinguished Germans, Genevans, Italians, and Danes. The Parisian -salon, reconstituted, flourished on Swiss soil. There visited there, -at one time or another, Madame Récamier and Madame Krüdner; Benjamin -Constant, who was so long Madame de Staël’s lover; Bonstetten, the -Voltairean philosopher; Frederika Brun, the Danish artist; Sismondi, -the historian; Werner, the German poet; Karl Ritter, the German -geographer; Baron de Voght; Monti, the Italian poet; Madame Vigée Le -Brun; Cuvier; and Oelenschlaeger. From almost every one of them we have -some pen-and-ink sketch of the life there. - -This, for instance, is the scene as it appeared to Madame Le Brun, who -came to paint the hostess’s portrait: - -‘I paint her in antique costume. She is not beautiful, but the -animation of her visage takes the place of beauty. To aid the -expression I wished to give her, I entreated her to recite tragic -verses while I painted. She declaimed passages from Corneille and -Racine.... I find many persons established at Coppet: the beautiful -Madame Récamier, the Comte de Sabran, a young English woman, Benjamin -Constant, etc. Its society is continually renewed. They come to visit -the illustrious exile who is pursued by the rancour of the Emperor. -Her two sons are now with her, under the instruction of the German -scholar Schlegel; her daughter is very beautiful, and has a passionate -love of study; she leaves her company free all the morning, but they -unite in the evening. It is only after dinner that they can converse -with her. She then walks in her salon, holding in her hand a little -green branch; and her words have an ardour quite peculiar to her: it -is impossible to interrupt her. At these times she produces on one the -effect of an improvisatrice.’ - -And here is a still more graphic description, taken from a letter -written to Madame Récamier by Baron de Voght: - -‘It is to you that I owe my most amiable reception at Coppet. It is no -doubt to the favourable expectations aroused by your friendship that -I owe my intimate acquaintance with this remarkable woman. I might -have met her without your assistance--some casual acquaintance would -no doubt have introduced me--but I should never have penetrated to the -intimacy of this sublime and beautiful soul, and should never have -known how much better she is than her reputation. _She is an angel sent -from heaven to reveal the divine goodness upon earth._ To make her -irresistible, a pure ray of celestial light embellishes her spirit and -makes her amiable from every point of view. - -‘At once profound and light, whether she is discovering a mysterious -secret of the soul or grasping the lightest shadow of a sentiment, -her genius shines without dazzling, and when the orb of light has -disappeared, it leaves a pleasant twilight to follow it.... No doubt -a few faults, a few weaknesses, occasionally veil this celestial -apparition; even the initiated must sometimes be troubled by these -eclipses, which the Genevan astronomers in vain endeavour to predict. - -‘My travels so far have been limited to journeys to Lausanne and -Coppet, where I often stay three or four days. The life there suits -me perfectly; the company is even more to my taste. I like Constant’s -wit, Schlegel’s learning, Sabran’s amiability, Sismondi’s talent and -character, the simple truthful disposition and just intellectual -perceptions of Auguste,[B] the wit and sweetness of Albertine[C]--I was -forgetting Bonstetten, an excellent fellow, full of knowledge of all -sorts, ready in wit, adaptable in character--in every way inspiring -one’s respect and confidence. - - [B] Madame de Staël’s son, who afterwards edited the works of - Madame de Staël and Madame Necker. - - [C] Madame de Staël’s daughter, afterwards Duchesse de Broglie. - -‘Your sublime friend looks and gives life to everything. She imparts -intelligence to those around her. In every corner of the house some -one is engaged in composing a great work.... Corinne is writing her -delightful letters about Germany, which will no doubt prove to be the -best thing she has ever done. - -‘The “Shunamitish Widow,” an Oriental melodrama which she has just -finished, will be played in October; it is charming. Coppet will be -flooded with tears. Constant and Auguste are both composing tragedies; -Sabran is writing a comic opera, and Sismondi a history; Schlegel is -translating something; Bonstetten is busy with philosophy, and I am -busy with my letter to Juliette.’ - -[Illustration: THE TRICOTEUSE: WINTER] - -Then, a month later: - -‘Since my last letter, Madame de Staël has read us several chapters of -her work. Everywhere it bears the marks of her talent. I wish I could -persuade her to cut out everything in it connected with politics, and -all the metaphors which interfere with its clarity, simplicity and -accuracy. What she needs to demonstrate is not her republicanism, but -her wisdom.... Mlle. Jenner played in one of Werner’s tragedies which -was given, last Friday, before an audience of twenty. She, Werner, and -Schlegel played perfectly.... - -‘The arrival in Switzerland of M. Cuvier has been a happy distraction -for Madame de Staël; they spent two days together at Geneva, and -were well pleased with each other. On her return to Coppet she found -Middleton there, and in receiving his confidences forgot her troubles. -Yesterday she resumed her work. - -‘The poet whose mystical and sombre genius has caused us such profound -emotions starts, in a few days’ time, for Italy. - -‘I accompanied Corinne to Massot’s. To alleviate the tedium of the -sitting, a Mlle. Romilly played pleasantly on the harp, and the studio -was a veritable temple of the Muses.... - -‘Bonstetten gave us two readings of a Memoir on the Northern Alps. It -began very well, but afterwards it bored us.... Madame de Staël resumed -her reading, and there was no longer any question of being bored. It is -marvellous how much she must have read and thought over to be able to -find the opportunity of saying so many good things. One may differ from -her, but one cannot help delighting in her talent.... - -‘And now here we are at Geneva, trying to reproduce Coppet at the Hôtel -des Balances. I am delightfully situated with a wide view over the -Valley of Savoy, between the Alps and the Jura.... Yesterday evening -the illusion of Coppet was complete. I had been with Madame de Staël to -call on Madame Rilliet, who is so charming at her own fireside. On my -return I played chess with Sismondi. Madame de Staël, Mlle. Randall, -and Mlle. Jenner sat on the sofa chatting with Bonstetten and young -Barante. We were as we had always been--as we were in the days that I -shall never cease regretting.’ - -Other descriptions exist in great abundance, but these suffice to -serve our purpose. They show us the Coppet salon as it was--pleasant, -brilliant, unconventional; something like Holland House, but more -Bohemian; something like Harley Street, but more select; something -like Gad’s Hill--which it resembled in the fact that the members of -the house-parties were expected to spend their mornings at their -desks--but on a higher social plane; a centre at once of high thinking -and frivolous behaviour; of hard work and desperate love-making, which -sometimes paved the way to trouble. - -If only one had space to go into the details of that love-making! But -that is a subject which would need a much larger book than this to do -it justice. - - - - -INDEX - - - Academy of Calvin, 3 - - Amadeus IX., Duke, 15 - - Amaulx, Pierre, 30 - - Amiel, 90, 105 - - Annecy, 91 - - Arlaud, 73 - - Arve, The, 20 - - Aubert, Syndic, 30 - - - Balmat, Jacques, 80 - - Bauhin, Sieur, plague-doctor, 47 - - Beauteville, M. de, 115 - - Bérenger, 71, 73 - - Berlonière, M., 53 - - Berthelier, Philibert, 10 - - Bèze, M. de, 34, 36, 38, 40, 41, 43, 44, 46, 48, 51, 52, 57, 58, - 59, 61, 62, 94 - - Blanvalet, Henri, 102 - - Bonaventura, Cornelius, 41 - - Bonivard, François de, 11, 24 - - Bonivard’s Chronicle, 14 - - Bonnet, Charles, 73, 75, 86, 87, 89 - - Bonstetten, 125, 129, 130 - - Bourrit, 72, 74, 80, 83 - - Brun, Frederika, 125 - - - Calendrini, 61 - - Calvin, 3, 23, 24, 30, 31, 34, 43, 97, 109 - - Casaubon, Isaac, 34 - - Caveau Genevois, 97 - - Chaponnière, J. F., 98 - - Charles Emanuel, Duke, 52, 53, 56 - - Charles IV., Emperor, 33 - - Cherbuliez, 105 - - Chevalier, M., 36 - - Chillon, 11 - - Constant, Benjamin, 125, 127 - - Coppet, 106, 123, 124, 126, 127, 129, 130 - - Cordier, Mathurin, 37 - - Corraterie, 1, 2, 54 - - Couvent de la Rive, 14 - de Sainte-Claire, 15 - - Cuisine Papale, 44 - - Curchod, Mademoiselle Suzanne, 72 - - Cuvier, 125, 129 - - - D’Albigni, 53, 54, 55, 56 - - D’Alembert, 108, 109, 113 - - D’Aubigné, Agrippa, 90 - Merle, 96 - - Dentan, 73 - - Didier, Charles, 102 - - Diodati, Jean, 61 - - D’Ivernois, 71 - - - École de la Rive, 33, 34 - - Égaliseurs, 67 - - Eidgenossen, The, 9 - - Englués, 67 - - Escalade, The, 52, 61 - - Estienne, Robert, 35 - - Etrembières, 55 - - - Fabri, Bishop Adhémar de, 9 - - Farel, 13, 14, 18, 23, 24, 97 - - Ferney, 107, 115, 119, 120 - - - Galloix, Imbert, 102 - - Gay, Claude, 121 - - Geneston, Matthew, 46 - - Genevan Revolutions, 78 - - Gesner, 84 - - Gibbon, 72, 112 - - Gide, Etienne, 99, 102 - - Goulart, Simon, 55, 61 - - - Haldane, Mr., 95, 96 - - Henri IV., 52 - - Hotman, Francis, 41 - - Hubers, The Two, 72 - - Hugues, Besançon, 10 - - - Jacobinical Clubs, 67 - - Jallabert, 73 - - Javelle, Emile, 105 - - Jeanne de Jussie, 15, 17 - - Jeûne Genevois, 48 - - - Knox, John, 25 - - Krüdner, Madame de, 125 - - - La Faye, Antoine, 58 - - Lamartine, 99 - - Laws and Statutes of Geneva, The, 25 - - Le Brun, Madame Vigée, 125 - - Lefort, François, 72 - - Le Sage, 72 - - Libertines, 23 - Liberty, The Friends of, 30, 97 - - Lolme, De, 71, 72 - - Luc, Jean André de, 73, 83 - - Lucs, The De, 72 - - - Maimbourg, 43 - - Malan, Cæsar, 96 - - Malingre, Pastor, 13 - - Mallet, 75 - - Massacre of St. Bartholomew, 45 - - Melvill, Andrew, 39, 41 - - Monnet, Raoul, 30 - - Monnier, Dr. Philippe, 105 - Marc, 89, 99, 105 - - Monod, Adolphe, 96 - - Montet, Albert de, 105 - - Monti, 125 - - Moore, Dr. John, 119 - - - Necker, 123 - - Neff, Félix, 96 - - - Odier, 73 - - Oelenschlaeger, 125 - - - Pecolat, Jean, 10 - - Petit-Senn, 100, 102 - - Picot, 73 - - Pictet, 73 - - Portus, 41 - - Prangins, 107 - - - Récamier, Madame, 125, 126 - - Register of the Consistory, The, 29 - - Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, The, 61, 62 - - Revolution at Geneva, 86 - Age of, 71 - - Revolutions, 65, 66 - - Réveil, The, 94, 95 - - Rilliet, Madame, 130 - - Ritter, Karl, 125 - Eugène, 105 - - Romantic School, The, 99 - - Rousseau, 3, 82, 89, 91, 113 - Jean-Jaques, 91, 114 - - - Salève, 1 - - Saulnier, Antoine, 33 - - Saussure, De, 72, 75, 77, 78, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 86, 87 - - Scheuchzer, 84 - - Schlegel, 127, 129 - - Scrymgeour, Henry, 41 - - Senebier, 72 - - Servetus, 31 - - Sismondi, 125, 127 - - Social Evil, The, 7 - - Staël, Madame de, 89, 106, 123, 124, 125, 128, 129, 130 - Albertine de, 127 - Auguste de, 127 - - St. Bartholomew’s Day, 47 - - St. Ours, 73 - - - Tanners, 67 - - Theocracy, The, 25 - - Toepfer, 105 - - Trembley, 61, 73, 79 - - Tronchin, Dr., 61, 73, 74, 107, 109 - - Turretini, 61, 108 - - - University, 33, 34, 35, 36, 39 - - - Vernés, 112 - - Verre, André, 103 - - Viret, 18 - - Voght, Baron de, 125, 126 - - Voltaire, 75, 106, 107, 109, 111, 112, 114, 115, 116, 117, 119, - 120, 121 - - - Werner, 125, 129 - - -THE END - - -BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD - - - - -Transcriber’s Notes - - -Punctuation, hyphenation, and spelling were made consistent when a -predominant preference was found in this book; otherwise they were not -changed. 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