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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5a554e7 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #50139 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/50139) diff --git a/old/50139-0.txt b/old/50139-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 6c75254..0000000 --- a/old/50139-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12752 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of -Perfumery, by C. Deite - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Perfumery - -Author: C. Deite - -Translator: William T. Brannt - -Release Date: October 6, 2015 [EBook #50139] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TREATISE ON MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY *** - - - - -Produced by deaurider, Les Galloway and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - A PRACTICAL TREATISE - - ON THE - - MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY: - - COMPRISING - - DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING ALL KINDS OF PERFUMES, SACHET - POWDERS, FUMIGATING MATERIALS, DENTIFRICES, - COSMETICS, ETC., ETC., - - WITH A FULL ACCOUNT OF THE - - VOLATILE OILS, BALSAMS, RESINS, AND OTHER NATURAL - AND ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-SUBSTANCES, INCLUDING - THE MANUFACTURE OF FRUIT ETHERS, AND - TESTS OF THEIR PURITY. - - BY - - DR. C. DEITE, - - ASSISTED BY L. BORCHERT, F. EICHBAUM, E. KUGLER, - H. TOEFFNER, AND OTHER EXPERTS. - - FROM THE GERMAN BY - - WILLIAM T. BRANNT, - - EDITOR OF "THE TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT-BOOK." - - ILLUSTRATED BY TWENTY-EIGHT ENGRAVINGS. - - PHILADELPHIA: - HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO., - INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHERS, BOOKSELLERS AND IMPORTERS, - 810 WALNUT STREET. - 1892. - - - COPYRIGHT BY - HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO. - 1892. - - PRINTED AT THE COLLINS PRINTING HOUSE, - 705 Jayne Street, - PHILADELPHIA, U. S. A. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -A translation of the portion of the "Handbuch der Parfümerie-und -Toiletteseifenfabrikation," edited by Dr. C. DEITE, relating to -perfumery and cosmetics, is presented to the English reading public -with the full confidence that it will not only fill a useful place -in technical literature, but will also prove--for what it is chiefly -intended--a ready book of reference and a practical help and guide for -the perfumer's laboratory. The names of the editor and his co-workers -are a sufficient guaranty of its value and practical usefulness, they -all being experienced men, well schooled each in the particular branch -of the industry, the treatment of which has been assigned to him. - -The most suitable and approved formulæ, tested by experience, have been -given; and special attention has been paid to the description of the -raw materials, as well as to the various methods of testing them, the -latter being of special importance, since in no other industry has the -manufacturer to contend with such gross and universal adulteration of -raw materials. - -It is hoped that the additions made here and there by the translator, -as well as the portion relating to the manufacture of "Fruit Ethers," -added by him, may contribute to the interest and usefulness of the -treatise. - -Finally, it remains only to be stated that, with their usual -liberality, the publishers have spared no expense in the proper -illustration and the mechanical production of the book; and, as is -their universal practice, have caused it to be provided with a copious -table of contents and a very full index, which will add additional -value by rendering any subject in it easy and prompt of reference. - - W. T. B. - - PHILADELPHIA, May 2, 1892. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - CHAPTER I. - - HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY. - - PAGE - - Consumption of perfume-substances by the early nations of - the Orient 17 - - Perfume-substances as an offering to the gods and their use - for embalming the dead; Arts of the toilet in ancient times 18 - - Perfume-substances used by the Hebrews; Olibanum and - the mode of gaining it in ancient times, as described by - Herodotus 19 - - Pliny's account of olibanum 20 - - Practice of anointing the entire body customary among the - ancients; The holy oil prescribed by Moses; Origin of - the sweet-scented ointment "myron" 21 - - Luxurious use of ointments in Athens, and the special ointments - used for each part of the body; Introduction of ointments in - Rome, and edict prohibiting the sale of foreign ointments; - Plutarch on the extravagant use of ointments in Rome 22 - - Ancient books containing directions for preparing ointments; - Directions for rose ointment, according to Dioscorides 23 - - Ancient process of distilling volatile oils; Dioscorides's - directions for making animal fats suitable for the reception of - perfumes; Consumption of perfume-substances by the ancient - Romans; Condition of the ancient ointment-makers 24 - - Use of red and white paints, hair-dyes, and depilatories by - the Romans 25 - - Peculiar substance for cleansing the teeth used by the Roman - ladies; Perfumeries and cosmetics in the Middle Ages; - Receipts for cosmetics in the writings of Arabian physicians, - and of Guy de Chanlios 26 - - Giovanni Marinello's work on "Cosmetics for Ladies;" Introduction - of the arts of the toilet into France, by Catherine de Medici - and Margaret of Valois 27 - - Extravagant use of cosmetics in France from the commencement - of the seventeenth to the middle of the eighteenth century 28 - - Importance of the perfumer's craft in France; Chief seats - of the French perfumery industry 29 - - Privileges of the _parfumeurs-gantiers_ in France; Use of - perfumes in England; Act of Parliament prohibiting the use of - perfumeries, false hair, etc., for deceiving a man and inveigling - him into matrimony 30 - - CHAPTER II. - - THE PERFUME-MATERIALS FOR THE MANUFACTURE - OF PERFUMERY. - - Derivation of the perfume-substances; Animal substances - used; Occurrence of volatile oils in plants 31 - - Families of plants richest in oil; Central Europe the actual - flower garden of the perfumer; Principal localities for the - cultivation of plants 32 - - Volatile oils and their properties 33 - - Principal divisions of volatile oils 34 - - Constitution of terpenes; Concentrated volatile oils 35 - - Modes of gaining volatile oils; Expression 36 - - Clarification of the oil 37 - - Filter for clarifying the oil, illustrated and described 38 - - Distillation 39 - - Apparatus for determining the percentage of volatile oil a - vegetable substance will yield, illustrated and described 40 - - Various stills for the distillation of volatile oils, illustrated - and described 41 - - Distillation of volatile oils by means of hot air; Separation - of the oil and water; Florentine flasks, illustrated and - described 46 - - Separator-funnel, illustrated and described 47 - - Extraction 48 - - Various apparatuses for extraction, illustrated and described 49 - - Heyl's distilling apparatus 57 - - Maceration or infusion; Pomades; Purification of the fats - used in the maceration process 58 - - _Huiles antiques_; Old French process of maceration; Piver's - maceration apparatus, illustrated and described 59 - - Flowers for which maceration is employed; Absorption or - _enfleurage_ 60 - - Apparatuses for absorption, illustrated and described 61 - - Flowers for which the absorption process is employed; Storage - of volatile oils 65 - - CHAPTER III. - - TESTING VOLATILE OILS. - - Extensive adulteration of volatile oils; Testing volatile oils - as to odor and taste 66 - - Recognition of an adulteration with fat oil 67 - - Detection of alcohol or spirit of wine; Dragendorff's test 68 - - Hager's tannin test 69 - - Detection of chloroform; Detection of benzine 71 - - Quantitative determination of adulterations with alcohol, - chloroform, and benzine 72 - - Detection of adulterations with terpenes or terpene-like fluids 73 - - Detection of adulterations with volatile oils of a lower quality; - Test with iodine 74 - - Hoppe's nitroprusside of copper test 75 - - Table showing the behavior of volatile oils free from oxygen - towards nitroprusside of copper 76 - - Hager's alcohol and sulphuric acid test; Hager's guaiacum - reaction 78 - - Division of the volatile oils with reference to the guaiacum - reaction 79 - - Hübl's iodine method 80 - - A. Kremel's test by titration or saponification with alcoholic - potash lye 81 - - Utilization of Maumené's test by F. R. Williams 82 - - Planchon's proposed procedure for the recognition of a - volatile oil 83 - - CHAPTER IV. - - THE VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. - - Acacia oil or oil of cassie; Almond oil (bitter) 87 - - Adulterations of oil of bitter almonds and their detection 90 - - Angelica oil 92 - - Anise-seed oil 93 - - Star anise oil 94 - - Balm oil; Basil oil; Bayberry oil, or oil of bay leaves 96 - - Bergamot oil; Testing bergamot oil as to its purity 97 - - Cajeput oil 98 - - Camomile or chamomile oil; Blue camomile oil; Green - camomile oil 99 - - Caraway oil; Recognition of the purity of caraway oil 100 - - Cedar oil; Cherry-laurel oil 101 - - Detection of oil of mirbane in cherry-laurel oil; Cinnamon - oils; Ceylon cinnamon oil 102 - - Cassia oil 103 - - Cinnamon-root oil and oil of cinnamon leaves; Quantitative - determination of cinnamaldehyde in cassia oil 104 - - Detection of adulterations in cassia oil; Citron oil 106 - - Detection of adulterations in citron oil; Citronella oil; - Detection of adulterations in citronella oil 107 - - Oil of cloves 108 - - Test for the value of oil of cloves 109 - - Eucalyptus oil 110 - - Fennel oil 111 - - Geranium oil, palmarosa oil, Turkish geranium oil; East - Indian geranium oil; French and African geranium oils 112 - - Adulterations of geranium oils; Jasmine oil, or oil of - jessamine 113 - - Juniper oil 114 - - Lavender oil; Spike oil 115 - - Detection of adulterations of lavender oil; Lemon oil; - Sponge process of obtaining lemon oil 116 - - Écuelle process 117 - - Distillation; Apparatus combining the écuelle and distilling - processes, illustrated and described 118 - - Adulterations of oil of lemons and their detection: Lilac - oil; Oil of limes 121 - - Licari oil, linaloë oil; Marjoram oils; Spanish marjoram oil 122 - - Mignonette oil; Myrrh oil 123 - - Nutmeg oils; Mace oil; Adulterations of mace oil and their - detection 124 - - Opopanax oil; Orange-peel oil, Portugal oil or essence of - Portugal; Mandarin oil 125 - - Orange-flower oil or neroli oil; Neroli Portugal oil; - Cultivation of the orange on the French Riviera and yield of - orange blossoms; Characteristics of oil of orange flowers 126 - - Adulterations of neroli oil and their detection 127 - - Petit-grain oil; Oil of orris root 129 - - Patchouli oil 130 - - Varieties and characteristics of patchouli oil 131 - - Peppermint oil; Oil of curled mint; Peppermint oil and its - varieties 132 - - American oils of peppermint of high reputation; Mode of - distinguishing American, German, and English oils of - peppermint 133 - - Adulterants of peppermint oil and their detection 134 - - Poley oil 135 - - Pimento oil or oil of allspice; Rose oil or attar of roses; - Principal localities of its production; Schimmel & Co.'s, - of Leipzic, Germany, experiment to obtain oil from indigenous - roses 136 - - The rose-oil industry in Bulgaria; Methods of gathering and - distilling the roses 137 - - Characteristics of pure rose oil 138 - - Manner of judging the genuineness of rose oil; Process for - the insulation and determination of stearoptene in rose oil 139 - - Adulteration of rose oil with ginger-grass oil 140 - - Test for the adulteration of rose oil with ginger-grass oil - employed in Bulgaria 141 - - Adulterants of rose oil 142 - - Tests for rose oil; Approximate quantitative determination - of spermaceti in rose oil 143 - - Rosemary oil; Detection of adulterations in rosemary oil 144 - - Rosewood oil or rhodium oil; Sandal-wood oil; Sassafras - oil; Characteristics of sassafras oil 145 - - Thyme oil 147 - - Oil of turpentine; Austrian oil of turpentine; German oil - of turpentine; French oil of turpentine; Venetian oil of - turpentine 148 - - American oil of turpentine; Pine oil; Dwarf pine oil; - Krummholz or Latschenoel; Pine-leaf oil; Templin oil - (Kienoel); Balsam-pine oil 149 - - Oil of verbena; Oil of violet; Vitivert or vetiver oil 150 - - Wintergreen oil 151 - - Birch oil; Artificial preparation of methyl salicylate 152 - - Adulteration of wintergreen oil and its detection; Ylang-ylang - oil 153 - - Cananga oil 154 - - CHAPTER V. - - RESINS AND BALSAMS. - - Elementary constituents of resins; Division of resins; Hard - resins; Soft resins or balsams; Gum-resins 155 - - Diffusion of resins in the vegetable kingdom; Benzoin 156 - - Varieties of benzoin and their characteristics 157 - - Peru balsam and mode of obtaining it 159 - - White Peru balsam 160 - - Characteristics of Peru balsam 161 - - Adulterants of Peru balsam and their detection 162 - - Tolu balsam and its characteristics 166 - - A new variety of Tolu balsam 167 - - Storax; Liquid storax and its characteristics 168 - - Adulteration of liquid storax and its detection 170 - - Storax in grains; Ordinary storax 171 - - American storax, white Peru balsam, white Indian balsam, - or liquid-ambar; Myrrh 172 - - Myrrha electa and its characteristics 173 - - Constitution of myrrh 174 - - Adulteration of myrrh and its detection 175 - - Opopanax; Olibanum or frankincense 176 - - Commercial varieties of olibanum; Sandarac and its - characteristics 177 - - CHAPTER VI. - - PERFUME-SUBSTANCES FROM THE ANIMAL KINGDOM. - - Musk and its varieties; Musk sacs, illustrated and described 178 - - Characteristics of Tonkin musk 180 - - Musk of the American musk-rat as a substitute for genuine - musk 181 - - Other possible substitutes for the musk-deer; Artificial musk 182 - - Adulterations of musk and their detection 183 - - Civet 184 - - Castor and its varieties 185 - - Adulterations of castor; Ambergris 186 - - Constituents of ambergris 187 - - Adulterations of ambergris 188 - - CHAPTER VII. - - ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. - - Conversion of oil of turpentine into oil of lemons by Bouchardat - and Lafont 189 - - Cumarin, its occurrence and properties 190 - - Varieties of tonka beans found in commerce 191 - - Preparation of cumarin from tonka beans; Artificial preparation - of cumarin from salicylic acid 192 - - Synthetical preparation of cumarin; Heliotropin or piperonal - and its characteristics 193 - - Preparation of heliotropin 194 - - Vanillin; Characteristics of the vanilla 195 - - Artificial preparation of vanillin 196 - - Characteristics of vanillin 197 - - Adulteration of vanillin, and its detection; Nitrobenzol 198 - - Characteristics of nitrobenzol or oil of mirbane; adulteration - of nitrobenzol and its detection 199 - - Fruit ethers and their characteristics 200 - - Acetic amyl ether or amyl acetate, its preparation and use; - Acetic ether or ethyl acetate and its preparation 201 - - Benzoic ether or ethyl benzoate and its preparation 204 - - Butyric ethyl ether or ethyl butyrate; Preparation of butyric - acid 205 - - Preparation of butyric ether 207 - - St. John's bread or carob as material for the preparation of - butyric ether 209 - - Formic ethyl ether, or ethyl formate and its preparation 210 - - Nitrous ether or ethyl nitrate and its preparation according - to Kopp's method 211 - - Preparation and use of nitrous ether in England and America 212 - - Valerianic amyl ether or amyl valerate and its preparation 214 - - Valerianic ethyl ether; Apple ether; Apricot ether; Cherry - ether; Pear ether; Pineapple ether; Strawberry ether; - Preparation of fruit essences; Apple essence; Apricot essence 216 - - Cherry essence; Currant essence; Grape essence; Lemon - essence; Melon essence; Orange essence; Peach essence; - Pear essence; Pineapple essence; Plum essence 217 - - Raspberry essence; Strawberry essence 218 - - CHAPTER VIII. - - ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. - - Division of alcoholic perfumes; What constitutes the art - of the perfumer; Qualities of flower-pomades and their - designation 219 - - Storage of flower-pomades; Extraction of flower-pomades 220 - - Apparatus for making alcoholic extracts from flower-pomades, - illustrated and described 221 - - Beyer frères improved apparatus, illustrated and described 223 - - Tinctures and extracts and their preparation 225 - - Beyer frères apparatus for the preparation of tinctures, - illustrated and described 226 - - Musk tincture; Civet tincture 228 - - Ambergris tincture; Castor tincture; Benzoin tincture; - Peru balsam tincture; Tolu balsam tincture 229 - - Olibanum tincture; Opopanax tincture; Storax tincture; - Myrrh tincture; Musk-seed or abelmosk tincture 230 - - Angelica root tincture; Orris-root tincture; Musk-root or - sumbul-root tincture; Tonka-bean tincture 231 - - Cumarin tincture; Heliotropin tincture; Vanilla tincture; - Vanillin tincture 232 - - Vitivert tincture; Juniper-berry tincture; Patchouli extract 233 - - Tinctures from volatile oils; Almond-oil (bitter) tincture; - Balm-oil tincture; Bergamot-oil tincture; Canango-oil - tincture 234 - - Cassia-oil tincture; Cedar-oil tincture; Cinnamon-oil tincture; - Citronella-oil tincture; Clove-oil tincture; Eucalyptus-oil - tincture; Geranium-oil tincture; Lavender-oil tincture; - Lemon-grass-oil tincture; Lemon-oil tincture; Licari-oil - tincture; Myrrh-oil tincture; Neroli-oil tincture; Opopanax-oil - tincture; Orris-root-oil tincture; Patchouli-oil tincture 235 - - Petit-grain-oil tincture; Pine-leaf-oil tincture; Portugal-oil - tincture; Sandal-wood-oil tincture; Verbena-oil tincture; - Vitivert-oil tincture; Wintergreen-oil tincture; Ylang-ylang-oil - tincture; Rose-oil tincture 236 - - Extraits aux fleurs; Extrait acacia; Extrait cassie; Extrait - héliotrope; Extrait jacinthe 237 - - Extrait jasmin; Essence of the odor of linden blossoms; - Extrait jonquille; Extrait magnolia; Extrait muguet - (lily of the valley); Extrait fleurs de Mai (May flowers) 238 - - Extrait ixora; Extrait orange; Extrait white rose; Extrait - rose v. d. centifolie; Extrait violette; Coloring substance - for extraits; Extrait de violette de Parme 239 - - Extrait tubereuse; Extrait réséda; Extrait ylang-ylang; - Compound odors (bouquets); Extrait Edelweiss; Extrait - ess-bouquet 240 - - Extrait spring flower; Extrait bouquet Eugenie; Extrait - excelsior; Extrait Frangipani; Extrait jockey club 241 - - Extrait opopanax; Extrait patchouli; Extrait millefleurs; - Extrait bouquet Victoria 242 - - Extrait kiss-me-quick; Extrait mogadore; Extrait bouquet - Prince Albert; Extrait muse; Extrait new-mown hay; - Extrait chypre 243 - - Extrait maréchal; Extrait mousseline; Extraits triple - concentrés and their preparations 244 - - Concentrated flower-extract for the preparation of extraits - d'Odeurs; Extraits d'Odeurs, quality II 245 - - Extrait violette II; Extrait rose II; Extrait réséda II; - Extrait ylang-ylang II 246 - - Extrait new-mown hay II; Extrait chypre II; Extrait ess-bouquet - II 247 - - Extrait muguet II; Extrait bouquet Victoria II; Extrait - spring flower II; Extrait ixora II 248 - - Extrait Frangipani II; Cologne water (eau de Cologne) and - its preparation 249 - - Durability of the volatile oils used in the preparation of - Cologne water 250 - - Cologne water, quality I 252 - - Cologne water, quality II; Cologne water, quality III; - Cologne water, quality IV; Cologne water, quality V 253 - - Maiglöckchen eau de Cologne; Various other receipts for - Cologne water 254 - - Eau de Lavande; Eau de vie de Lavande double ambrée; - Eau de Lavande double; Aqua mellis; Eau de Lisbonne 255 - - CHAPTER IX. - - DRY PERFUMES. - - Use of dry perfumes in ancient times; Sachet powders and - their preparation 256 - - Sachet à la rose; Sachet à la violette; Heliotrope sachet - powder; Ylang-ylang sachet powder; Jockey club sachet 257 - - Sachet aux millefleurs; Lily of the valley sachet powder; - Patchouli sachet powder; Frangipani sachet powder; - Victoria sachet powder; Réséda sachet powder 258 - - Musk sachet powder; Ess-bouquet sachet powder; New-mown - hay sachet powder; Orange sachet powder; Solid - perfumes with paraffine; White rose 259 - - Ess-bouquet; Lavender odor; Eau de Cologne; Smelling - salts; Preston salt and "menthol pungent" as prepared - by William W. Bartlett; White smelling salt 260 - - CHAPTER X. - - FUMIGATING ESSENCES, PASTILLES, POWDERS, ETC. - - Constitution of fumigating agents; Object of fumigating; - Prejudice against fumigating; Mode of fumigating 262 - - Atomizers; Objections to dry fumigating agents 263 - - Fumigating essences and vinegars; Rose-flower fumigating - essence; Flower fumigating essence--héliotrope 264 - - Violet-flower fumigating essence; Oriental flower fumigating - essence; Pine odor (for atomizing); Juniper odor; fumigating - balsam 265 - - Fumigating water; Fumigating vinegar; Fumigating powders; - Ordinary fumigating powder 266 - - Rose fumigating powder; Violet fumigating powder; Orange - fumigating powder; New-mown hay fumigating powder 267 - - Fumigating paper; Fumigating pastilles 268 - - Ordinary red fumigating pastilles; Ordinary black fumigating - pastilles; Musk fumigating pastilles 269 - - Rose fumigating pastilles; Violet fumigating pastilles; - Millefleurs fumigating pastilles; Fumigating lacquer 270 - - CHAPTER XI. - - DENTIFRICES, MOUTH-WATERS, ETC. - - Selection of materials for and compounding of dentifrices 272 - - Soap as a constituent of dentifrices; Value of thymol for - dentifrices; Object of glycerin in dentifrices 273 - - Tooth and mouth waters; Thymol tooth-water; Eau dentifrice - Botot; Eau dentifrice Orientale 274 - - Violet mouth-water; Antiseptic gargle; Odontine; Sozodont; - Eau de Botot (improved) 275 - - Quinine tooth-water; Dr. Stahl's tooth-tincture; Esprit de - menthe; Arnica tooth-tincture; Myrrh tooth-tincture 276 - - Tooth-pastes and tooth-powders; tooth-paste or odontine 277 - - Thymol tooth-paste; Cherry tooth-paste; Non-fermenting - cherry tooth-paste; Odontine paste 278 - - Thymol tooth-powder; Poudre dentifrice; Violet tooth-powder 279 - - Dr. Hufeland's tooth-powder; White tooth-powder; Black - tooth-powder; Poudre de corail; Camphor tooth-powder; - Opiat liquide pour les dents 280 - - Poudre d'Algérine 281 - - Dr. Hufeland's tooth-soap 282 - - Tooth-soap; Saponaceous tooth-wash 283 - - CHAPTER XII. - - HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS, AND HAIR TONICS; HAIR - DYES AND DEPILATORIES. - - Fats used for the preparation of pomades; Reputation of - some fats as hair pomades 284 - - Pomades and their preparation; Purification of the fat 285 - - Substances used for coloring pomades; Fine French pomades - (flower-pomades); Maceration or extraction of the flowers 286 - - Receipts for some flower-pomades; Pommade à la rose; - Pommade à l'acacia; Pommade à la fleur d'orange; - Pommade à l'héliotrope 287 - - Pomades according to the German method and their preparation; - Foundations for white pomades 288 - - Apple pomade; Bear's grease pomade; Quinine pomades 289 - - Quinine pomades (imitation); Benzoin pomade; Densdorf - pomade; Ice pomades; Family pomades 290 - - Strawberry pomade; Fine hair pomade; Pomade for promoting - the growth of the hair; Heliotrope pomades 291 - - Jasmine pomade; Emperor pomade; Macassar pomade; - Portugal pomade; Herb pomade; Lanolin pomade 292 - - Oriental pomade; Paraffin ice pomade; Neroli pomade; - Cheap pomade (red, yellow, white); Mignonette pomade; - Castor oil pomades; Princess pomade 293 - - Fine pomade; Beef-marrow pomade; Rogers's pomade for - producing a beard; Rose pomade; Fine rose pomade; - Finest rose pomade; Salicylic pomade; Victoria pomade; - Tonka pomade 294 - - Fine vanilla pomade; Vanilla pomade; Violet pomade; - Walnut pomade; Vaseline pomades 295 - - Foundations for vaseline pomades; Bouquet vaseline pomade; - Family vaseline pomade; Lily of the valley vaseline - pomade; Neroli vaseline pomade 296 - - Mignonette vaseline pomade; Portugal vaseline pomade; - Rose vaseline pomades; Fine vaseline pomade (yellow); - Vaseline pomade (red); Vaseline pomade (white); Virginia - vaseline pomade; Victoria vaseline pomade 297 - - Extra fine vaseline pomade; Stick pomades; Foundations - for stick pomades; Manufacture of stick pomades 298 - - Rose-wax pomade; Black-wax pomade; Blonde-wax pomade; - Brown-wax pomade 299 - - Cheap wax pomades; Resin pomades; Hair oils; Huiles - antiques; Vaseline oil for hair oils; Treatment of oils - with benzoin 300 - - Preparation of huiles antiques; Huile antique à la rose; - Huile antique au jasmin; Alpine herb oil; Flower hair - oil; Peruvian bark hair oil 301 - - Peru hair oil; Burdock root hair oils; Macassar hair oils; - Neroli hair oil; Mignonette hair oils; Fine hair oil 302 - - Cheap hair oil (red or yellow); Portugal hair oil; Jasmine - hair oil; Vaseline hair oils; Vanilla hair oil; Ylang-ylang - hair oil; Philocome hair oil 303 - - Sultana hair oil; Rose hair oil; Tonka hair oil; Violet hair - oil; Victoria hair oil; Cheap hair oils; Bandolines and - their preparation 304 - - Rose bandoline; Almond bandoline; Brilliantine 305 - - Flower brilliantine No. 1; Brilliantine No. 2 306 - - Brilliantine No. 3; Various formulas for brilliantine 307 - - Hair tonics; Eau Athénienne; Florida water 308 - - Eau de Cologne hair tonic; Eau de quinine 309 - - Eau de quinine (imitation); Honey water; Glycerin hair - tonic; Eau lustral (hair restorative); Tea hair tonic 310 - - Locock's lotion for the hair; Shampoo lotion; Shampoo - liquid 311 - - Dandruff cures; Dandruff lotion; Bay rum 312 - - Directions for preparing bay rum 313 - - Hair dyes; Requirements of a good hair dye; Gradual darkening - of the hair; Use of dilute acids for making the hair lighter 314 - - Use of lead salts, nitrate of silver, and copper salts for - dyeing the hair 315 - - Iron salts for dying the hair; Rastikopetra, a Turkish hair - dye; Use of potassium permanganate and pyrogallic acid - for dyeing the hair 316 - - Kohol, an Egyptian hair dye; The use of henna as a hair - dye; Process of coloring hair, dyed red with henna, black 317 - - Use of the juice of green walnut shells for coloring the hair; - Bleaching the hair with peroxide of hydrogen; Formulæ - for hair dyes 318 - - Single hair dyes; Teinture Orientale (Karsi); Teinture - Chinoise (Kohol) 319 - - Potassium permanganate hair dye; Bismuth hair dye; Walnut - hair dye; Pyrogallic hair stain 320 - - Double hair dyes; For dyeing brown; For dyeing black; - Tannin hair dye 321 - - Melanogène; Eau d'Afrique; Krinochrom; Copper hair - dye; Depilatories; Rhusma 322 - - Boettger's depilatory; Bartholow's depilatory 323 - - CHAPTER XIII. - - COSMETICS. - - Skin cosmetics; Toilet vinegars; Vinaigre de Bully; Vinaigre - de toilette à la rose; Vinaigre de toilette à la violette 324 - - Vinaigre de toilette héliotrope; Vinaigre de toilette orange; - Vinaigre de toilette; Aromatic vinegar; English aromatic - vinegar 325 - - Toilet vinegar; Washes; Virginal milk (Lait virginal); - Rose milk (Lait de rose) 326 - - Almond milk (Lait d'amandes amères) 327 - - Lily milk (Lait de lys); Perfumed glycerin with rose odor; - Perfumed glycerin with fruit odor; Perfumed meals and - pastes; Farin de noisette (nut meal) 328 - - Farin d'amandes amères (almond meal); Pate d'amandes - au miel (honey almond paste); Poudre de riz à la rose 329 - - Poudre de riz héliotrope; Poudre de riz orange; Poudre de - riz muguet 330 - - Poudre de riz ixora; Poudre de riz bouquet; Cold creams - and lip salves; Cold cream; Vaseline cold cream 331 - - Glycerin cream; Crême de concombre; Glycerin gelée; - Glycerin jelly 332 - - Cream of roses; Boroglycerin cream; Recamier cream; - Preparations for chapped hands 333 - - Wash for the hands; Nail powder; Lip-salves 334 - - Paints; Pulverulent paints (powders); "Blanc fard" or - "Blanc français" 335 - - Mixtures for powders; Coloring substances for powders; - Powder for coloring intensely red; Solid paints; Ordinary - red paint (rouge) 336 - - Fine red paint (rouge); White paint; Preparation of paints 337 - - Red stick-paint (stick rouge); Moulding the rouge into sticks 339 - - White stick-paint; Rouge en feuilles; Liquid paints; Liquid - rouge 340 - - White liquid paint; Fat paints 341 - - Crême de Lys; Crême de rose 342 - - INDEX 343 - - - - - A PRACTICAL TREATISE - - ON THE - - MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY. - - -Nature has implanted in man the instinct of finding the odor -accompanying decay and putrefaction insufferable, of fleeing from it, -and of going in quest of fragrant odors. Hence, in ancient times, -perfume substances were highly esteemed, and an offering of them was -considered a sign of the most profound reverence and homage. The early -nations of the Orient especially used perfume substances in such -profusion that the consumption of them by the finest lady of to-day -must be called a comparatively moderate one. This may, however, be -readily explained, for, on the one hand, the majority of plants which -produce the most agreeable perfumes in larger quantity are indigenous -to the Orient; and, on the other, the excessive exhalations from the -human body, caused by the hot climate, forced the people to search for -means to remove, or at least to cover, the disagreeable odor arising -therefrom. - -Since fragrant odors were agreeable to human beings, it was believed -that they must be welcome also to the gods, and, to honor them, perfume -substances were burned upon the altars. Besides, as an offering to -the gods, perfume substances were extensively used by many nations, -especially by the Egyptians, for embalming the dead, the process -employed by the latter having been transmitted to us by the ancient -authors Herodotus and Diodorus. - -Furthermore, a desire for ornamentation and to give to the face and -body as pleasing an appearance as possible, is common to all mankind. -To be sure, the ideas of what constitutes beauty in this respect -have varied at different times and among the various nations. But, -independent of the savage races, who consider painting and tattooing -the body and face an embellishment, and taking into consideration only -the earliest civilized nations, it is astonishing how many arts of the -toilet have been preserved from the most ancient historical times up -to the present. "In the most ancient historical times, people perfumed -and painted, frizzed, curled, and dyed the hair as at present, and, in -fact, the same cosmetics, only slightly augmented, which were in use -hundreds, nay, thousands, of years ago are still employed to-day."[1] -It is especially woman, who everywhere exercises the arts of the -toilet, while, with the exception of perfumes and agents for the hair, -man is but seldom referred to as making use of cosmetics. The young -girls of ancient Egypt used red and white paints, colored their pale -lips, and anointed their hair with sweet-scented oils; they dyed their -eyelashes and eyelids black to impart a brighter lustre to the glance -of the eye, and the mother of the wife of the first king of Egypt is -said to have already composed a receipt for a hair-dye. - - [1] Paschkis, Kosmetik für Aerzte. Wien, 1890. - -From the Egyptians, the practices of the toilet, like many other -things, were transmitted to the Jews. In Egypt, the Hebrew woman had -known the sweet-scented flower of the henna bush, and, finding it also -in Judea, it served her as a perfume. In the Bible the henna flower is -called _kopher_, in Greek _kypros_, and the Cyprian salve, mentioned by -Pliny, was prepared by boiling henna flowers in oil and then expressing -them. - -Painting the face was also practised by the Hebrew women, reference -being made to it in II. Kings ix. 30, and Jeremiah v. 30, while -painting of the eyes is mentioned in Ezekiel xxiii. 40. - -The number of perfume substances known to the ancient Hebrews was but a -limited one, they consisting, besides the above-mentioned henna flower, -chiefly of a few gum-resins, especially bdellium, olibanum and myrrh. - -In ancient times olibanum was, without doubt, the most important -perfume-substance. It was introduced into commerce by the Phoenicians, -and, like many other substances, it received from them its name, -which was adopted by other nations. Thus, the Hebrews called the tree -_lebonah_, the Arabs, _lubah_, while the Greeks named it, λιβανός -and the resin derived from it, the celebrated frankincense of the -ancients, λιβανωτόςτς, Latin, _olibanum_. Regarding the mode of gaining -the olibanum, some curious ideas prevailed in ancient times. Thus, -Herodotus writes: "Arabia is the only country in which olibanum grows, -as well as myrrh, cassia, cinnamon and lederum. With the exception -of myrrh, the Arabs encounter many difficulties in procuring these -products. Olibanum they obtain by burning styrax, for every olibanum -tree is guarded by a number of small-sized winged serpents of a -variegated appearance, which can be driven away by nothing but styrax -vapors." According to Pliny, who gives a very full account of olibanum, -_Arabia felix_ received its by-name from the abundance of olibanum and -myrrh found there. He states that olibanum grows in no other country -besides Arabia, but it is not found in every part of it. About in the -centre, upon a high mountain, he continues, is the country of the -Atramites, a province of the Sabeans, from which the olibanum region is -distant about eight days' journey. It is called Saba and is everywhere -rendered inaccessible by mountains, a narrow defile, through which the -export is carried on, leading into an adjoining province inhabited by -the Mineans. In Saba itself were not more than 300 families, called the -saints, who claimed the cultivation of olibanum as a right of heritage. -When making the incisions in the trees, and while gathering the -olibanum, the men were prohibited from having intercourse with women -and from attending funerals. Notwithstanding the fact that the Romans -carried on war in Arabia, none of them had ever seen an olibanum tree. -When there was less chance of selling the olibanum, it was gathered but -once in the year, but since the increase in the demand, it was gathered -twice, first in the fall and again in the spring, the incisions in -the trees having been made during the winter. The collected olibanum -was brought upon camels to Sabota, where one gate was open for its -reception; to turn from the road was prohibited under penalty of death. -The priests took one-tenth by measure for the god Sabin, sales not -being allowed until their claim was satisfied. The olibanum could be -exported only through the territory of the Gebanites, whose King also -levied tribute. - -Pliny further states that the Arabs did not steal one from another, but -for fear of loss those employed in the stores of Alexandria were forced -to go naked with the exception of a clout which was sealed. A mask and -a thick net were thrown over the head. - -To us the practice of anointing the entire body, customary among the -ancients, appears very singular. Old Egyptian sculptures represent -the guests being anointed at the meal. Among the Jews we find a holy -oil with which Aaron and his sons were anointed to consecrate them to -the priesthood, Moses prescribing for this holy anointing oil, myrrh, -cinnamon, calamus, and oil from the olive tree. Other persons were -prohibited from imitating or using this holy oil. The anointing of -kings was introduced later on. Though it was prohibited to imitate and -use the holy oil, this prohibition did not refer to anointing with oil -in general. - -That the Greeks also set a high value upon anointing with oil is -plainly seen from Homer. When Telemachus visited Nestor, Polycaste, -Nestor's youngest daughter, bathed him and anointed him with oil, and -when he was the guest of Menelaus, the maids of the latter performed -the same service for him, while for Ulysses returning as a beggar, the -aged Euryclea prepared a foot-bath and anointed him. - -By the addition of fragrant substances to the oil, the sweet-scented -ointment, _myron_, originated. While the anointing with simple oil -evidently served as a hygienic measure after the bath, and especially -for men in the gymnasium, and before a combat, with the Greeks, -ointments were an article of luxury. In Socrates' time the use of -sweet-scented ointments had reached such an extent, that Xenophon -caused him to speak against it, but, as is the case with all such -lectures against fashion, without the slightest success. In Athens the -luxury was carried so far that the bacchanalians anointed each part of -their body with a special ointment. The oil extracted from the palm -was thought best adapted to the cheeks and the breasts; the arms were -refreshed with balsam-mint; sweet marjoram supplied an oil for the -hair and eyebrows; and wild thyme for the knee and neck. Although to -us it would be repugnant to have the entire body anointed, in Athens -it was considered beautiful to be glossy with ointments. It is said of -Demetrius Phalereus, that in order to appear more captivating, he dyed -his hair yellow, and anointed the face and the rest of his body. - -From the Asiatics and Greeks the Romans also learned the use of -ointments. Pliny cannot say at what time they were introduced in Rome, -but states that after the conquest of Asia and the defeat of the King, -Antiochus, in the year 565, after the building of Rome, the censors -issued an edict prohibiting the sale of foreign ointments. However, -this edict was of no use, and the practice spread more and more, -Pliny speaking very bitterly about it. Regarding this extravagance -in ointments, Plutarch says: "Frankincense, cinnamon, spikenard, and -Arabian calamus are mixed together with the most careful art and sold -for large sums. It is an effeminate pleasure and has spoiled not only -the women but also the men, who will not sleep even with their own -wives if they do not smell of ointments and powders." Plutarch further -mentions an incident which must have created a sensation even in -luxurious Rome, as otherwise it would scarcely have been chronicled for -the benefit of posterity. Nero one day anointed himself with costly -ointments and scattered some of them over Otho. The next day Otho gave -Nero a banquet, and laid in all directions gold and silver tubes, which -poured forth expensive ointments like water, thoroughly saturating the -guests. - -Directions for preparing ointments are contained in Theophrastus's -work "On Perfumes," in Dioscorides's "Medica materia," and Pliny's -"Historia naturalis." Dioscorides's receipts are the fullest. According -to Pliny, a distinction was made between the juice and the body, the -latter consisting of the fat oils and the former of the sweet-scented -substances. In preparing the ointments, the oil together with the -perfuming substances were heated in the water-bath. For instance, -rose ointment was, according to Dioscorides, prepared by mixing 5½ -lbs. of bruised _Andropogon Schœnanthus_ with a little water, then -adding 20½ lbs. of oil and heating. After heating the oil was filtered -off, and the petals of one thousand roses were thrown into the oil, -the hands with which the rose leaves were pressed into the oil being -previously coated with honey. When the whole had stood for one night, -the oil was strained off and when all impurities had settled, it was -brought into another vessel and fresh rose leaves introduced, the -operation being several times repeated. However, according to the -opinion of the ancient ointment makers, no more odor was absorbed by -the oil after the seventh introduction of rose leaves. To fix the odor, -resins or gums were added to the ointments. - -A process of distilling volatile oils was also known, the -odoriferous matter being caught by spreading wool over the heated -perfume-substances. The wool was afterwards subjected to pressure. This -process, of course, involved great loss and was available only for -substances containing much volatile oil. - -Dioscorides also gives directions for making animal fats suitable for -the reception of perfumes. Beef-tallow, deer-fat, or the marrow of -animals was freed from all membranes, melted together with a little -salt in an entirely new vessel, and then poured into clean water, where -it was washed by rubbing with the hands, the water being frequently -renewed. Then it was boiled with equal parts of sweet-scented wine, -and after taking it from the fire it was allowed to stand over night. -The next day the cold fat was again boiled in a new vessel, with -sweet-scented wine, this operation being repeated until the fat had -lost every trace of disagreeable odor, when it was brought in contact -with the perfumes. - -The consumption of perfume-substances by the ancient Romans must have -been enormous. The trade of the ointment makers (_ungentarii_) was so -extensive that the large street _Seplasia_ in old Capua was entirely -taken up by it, and the business must have paid well since the prices -realized were very high. However, in ancient times the business cannot -have been very agreeable, at least not in Greece, as shown by a passage -in Plutarch's Life of Pericles: "We take pleasure in ointments and -purple, but consider the dyers and ointment makers bondsmen and -mechanics." - -Red and white paints, in the form of powder as well as of paste, were -extensively used by the Roman ladies. Chalk and white lead served for -white paint, and minium and carmine for red. Lovers preferred white -paints, a pale color being more becoming to them:-- - - "Palleat omnis amans; hic est - color aptus amanti."--(_Ovid._) - -For black paints for the eyebrows roasted ant eggs or soot were used. - -The Roman ladies paid as much attention to their natural, and also -false, hair as the fair ones of to-day. They curled their hair with -heated iron instruments, and perfumed them with fragrant oil. If from -age, sorrow, or other reasons, the hair was no longer black, it was -dyed, and it seems that a considerable number of hair-dyes were known -in Rome, amongst them some which are still employed to-day, such as -green nutshells and acetate of lead. - -After the Romans had seen the blonde German maidens, blonde and red -hair became the fashion. To dye the hair blonde sharp alkaline soaps -were chiefly used. However, this or some other hair-dye seems to have -been very injurious, as it caused the hair to come out. The satirists -ridiculed this as well as the wigs, which were worn by men and women to -hide baldness, or on account of the color which could not be attained -by dyes. - -Depilatories were also known to the Romans, the agents employed being -called _psilothrum_ and _dropax_. They were of vegetable origin, but -it is not exactly known from which plants they were derived. - -For cleaning the teeth the Roman ladies used a dentifrice which does -not seem very inviting to us. It consisted of a urine imported from -Spain (_dens hiberna defricatus urina_). To perfume the breath or to -hide its bad odor, mouth-washes, perfumed with saffron, roses, etc., -were used, or myrrh, mastic from Chios or perfumed pastilles were -chewed. - -We know but little regarding the use of perfumeries and cosmetics in -the Middle Ages. In the wars during the migrations of the nations, -but little thought was very likely given to them, but as soon as the -nations became again settled and made sufficient progress in culture, -the taste for perfumes and other pleasures of life no doubt returned. -Our knowledge in this respect is limited to what is contained in the -works of physicians of the first centuries. Later on we find receipts -for cosmetics in the writings of Arabian physicians, such as Rhazes -(end of the 9th to the commencement of the 10th century), Avicenna -(end of the 10th to the commencement of the 11th century), and Mesuë -(11th century). To the 11th century also belong the works of the -celebrated Trotula, "_De mulierum passionibus_," "_Practica Trotulae -mulieris Salernitanae de curis mulierum_," and "_Trotula in utilitatem -mulierum_," all of which contain receipts for cosmetics. In the -14th century the most celebrated surgeon of the Middle Ages, Guy de -Chanlios, did not consider it beneath his dignity to devote a section -of his "Grande Chirurgie" to cosmetics. However, it was only in the -16th century that perfumes and cosmetics came again into prominent -notice in Italy, which at that time was the country of luxury and art. -Giovanni Marinello,[2] a physician, in 1562 wrote a work on "Cosmetics -for Ladies," which he dedicated to the ladies Victoria and Isabella -Palavicini. In the preface the author expresses the opinion that it -is only right and pleasing to God to place the gifts bestowed by him -in a proper light and to heighten them. He then proceeds to give -perfumes for various purposes, aromatic baths to keep the skin young -and fresh, means for increasing the stoutness of the entire body and -of separate limbs, and others for reducing them. He further recommends -certain remedies for making large eyes small, and small ones large. -The chapter on the hair is very fully treated. To prevent the hair -from coming out, rubbing with oil, and then washing with sorrel and -myrobalan is recommended. For promoting the growth of the hair, the -use of dried frogs, lizards, etc., rubbed to a powder, is prescribed. -Means for making the hair long and soft and curly are also given, and -others recommended for eyebrows and eyelashes. As depilatories lime -and orpiment are prescribed. Paints are also classed among general -cosmetics. Their use became at this time more and more fashionable, and -not only the face, but also the breast and neck were painted. - - [2] Gli ornamenti delle donne, tratti dalle seriture d'una Reina - greca, par M. Giovanni Marinello in Venetia. - -Catherine of Medici and Margaret of Valois introduced these arts -of the toilet into France. That country soon became the leader in -this respect, and for many years the greatest luxury in perfumes -and cosmetics prevailed there. The golden age for these articles -lasted from the commencement of the seventeenth to the middle of -the eighteenth century, during which time the _mouche_ or beauty -patch also flourished. "There were at that time hundreds of pastes, -essences, cosmetics, a white balsam, a water to make the face red, -another to make a coarse complexion delicate, one to preserve the fine -complexion of lean persons and again one to make the face like that -of a twenty-year old girl, an _Eau pour nourir et laver les teints -corrodés_ and _Eau de chair admirable pour teints jaunes et bilieux_, -_etc._ Then there were _Mouchoirs de Venus_, further bands impregnated -with wax to cleanse and smooth the forehead; gold leaf was even heated -in a lemon over a fire in order to obtain a means which should impart -to the face a supernatural brightness. For the hair, teeth and nails -there were innumerable receipts, ointments, etc. However, of special -importance were the paints, chemical white, blue for the veins, but, -chief of all, the red or rouge, mineral, vegetable, or cochineal. The -application of rouge was at that time no small affair, it was not only -to be rouged, but the rouge had also to express something--_Le grand -point est d'avoir un rouge qui dise quelque chose_. The rouge had to -characterize its wearer; a lady of rank did not wear the rouge like a -lady of the court, and the rouge of the wife of the bourgeois was not -like either of them nor like that of the courtesan. At court a more -intense rouge was worn, the intensity of which was still increased on -the day of presentation, it being then _Rouge d'Espagne_ and _Rouge -de Portugal en tasse_. It may seem incredible, but for eight days a -violet paint was used and then for a change _Rouge de Serkis_. Ladies, -when retiring for the night applied a light rouge (_un demi rouge_), -and even small girls wore rouge, such being the decree of fashion. The -ladies dyed their eyebrows and eyelashes, and powdered their hair, both -natural and false, for, about 1750, they commenced wearing wigs and -chignons. Powdering was done partially for the purpose of dying the -hair after dressing, and partially for decoration; white, gray, red and -fiery red powders were in vogue." - -To that time fashion also ordained an ever-varying routine in the -employment of perfumes; so that the royal apartments were one day -fragrant with the scent of the tuberose and the next with that of amber -and cloves; and so on consecutively, each succeeding day bringing a -change of the reigning odor. In that luxurious age the personal use of -perfumes was not confined to the fair sex, but the effeminate gallants -of the day gloried in perfuming themselves with the favorite scents of -their mistresses or of prominent belles; so that the allegiance was -recognized, not as in more chivalrous times by the knight wearing the -colors of the fair one who had enslaved him, but by his smelling of the -particular odor which she had consecrated to herself. - -Philip Augustus, in 1190, granted a charter to the French perfumers, -who had formed a guild. This charter was, in 1357, confirmed by -John, and in 1582 by Henry III., and remained in force until 1636. -The importance of the craft in France is shown by the fact that -under Colbert the perfumers or "_parfumeurs-gantiers_," as they were -called, were granted patents which were registered in Parliament. -In the seventeenth century Montpellier was the chief seat of the -French perfumery industry; to-day it is Paris, and over fifty -millions of francs' worth of perfumery are annually sold there. The -_parfumeurs-gantiers_ had the privilege of selling gloves of all -possible kinds of material, as well as the leather required for them; -they had the further privilege of perfuming gloves and selling all -kinds of perfumes. Perfumed leather for gloves, purses, etc., was at -that time imported from Spain. This leather was very expensive and -fashionable, but on account of its penetrating odor its use for gloves -was finally abandoned. - -In England perfumes were not in general use before the reign of -Queen Elizabeth, when they soon became fashionable. Elizabeth had -an especially finely developed sense of smell and nothing was more -repugnant to her than a disagreeable odor. She had a cloak of perfumed -Spanish leather, and even her shoes were perfumed. Perfumed gloves were -also fashionable. The city soon imitated the practices of the court, -and that an extravagant use was made of perfumeries and cosmetics is -plainly seen from the works of the authors of that time, as well as -from an act of Parliament passed in 1770. By the latter it is ordained -that any woman, no matter of what age or rank, be she maid or widow, -who deceives a man and inveigles him into matrimony by the use of -perfumeries, false hair, _Crépons d'Espagne_ (a paint), corsets, hooped -petticoats, shoes with high heels, and false hips, shall suffer the -penalty of the law for procuring, and the marriage shall be null and -void. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -THE PERFUME-MATERIALS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. - - -Most of the perfume-materials employed by the perfumer are derived from -the vegetable kingdom; a few are of animal origin, whilst some are -artificially prepared. - -Of animal substances only four are used, namely: _musk_, _castor_ -or _castoreum_, _civet_, and _ambergris_; the separation of their -characteristic odoriferous substances has, however, not yet been -accomplished. The odor of plants is generally due to volatile -substances called _volatile_ or _essential oils_. Their occurrence is -not limited to special parts, they being found in the flower, seed, -wood, bast, bark, leaves, and root. However, in every plant the oil -occurs chiefly in certain organs, and it even happens that the oil -differs with the part of the plant whence it is derived. The odors -exist already formed in the living plant, or else are generated, as in -the instance of bitter almonds, by some reaction between the elements -which takes place during fermentation or distillation. - -From the strength of the odor of a plant no conclusion can be drawn as -to the quantity of volatile oil present. If this were the case, the -hyacinth, for instance, would contain more oil than the coniferae, -whilst in fact it contains so little that it can be separated only -with the greatest difficulty. The odor does not depend on the quantity, -but on the quality of the oil; a plant may diffuse but little odor and -still contain much volatile oil. Of the various families of plants, the -_labiatae_, _umbelliferae_, and _coniferae_ are richest in volatile -oils. - -In every climate plants diffuse odor, those growing in tropical -latitudes being more prolific in this respect than the plants of colder -regions, which, however, yield the most delicate perfume. Although -the East Indies, Ceylon, Peru, and Mexico afford some of the choicest -perfumes, Central Europe is the actual flower garden of the perfumer, -Grasse, Cannes, and Nice being the principal places for the production -of perfume-materials. Thanks to the geographical position of these -places, the cultivator, within a comparatively narrow space, has at his -disposal various climates suitable for the most perfect development -of the plants. The _Acacia Farnesiana_ grows on the seashore, without -having to fear frost, which in one night might destroy the entire crop, -while at the foot of the Alps, on Mount Esteral, the violet diffuses a -much sweeter odor than in the hotter regions, where the olive and the -tuberose reach perfect bloom. England asserts its superiority in oils -of lavender and peppermint. The volatile oils obtained from plants -cultivated in Mitcham and Hitchin command a considerably higher price -than those from other localities, this preference being justified only -by the delicacy of their perfume. Cannes is best suited for roses, -acacias, jasmine, and neroli, while in Nimes, thyme, rosemary, and -lavender are chiefly cultivated. Nice is celebrated for its violets, -while Sicily furnishes the lemon and orange, and Italy the iris and -bergamotte. - -The odors exhaled by our own domestic plants have been but little -studied, but the southern as well as many northern districts of the -United States are well adapted for the cultivation of quite a number -of species of plants which might be made to yield highly valuable -articles of commerce. Among the plants which might furnish oils for the -perfumer's use are, for instance, the wall flower, the Lilly, lilac and -mignonette. - - -VOLATILE OILS.--The volatile oils are either fluid (actual volatile -oils) or solid (varieties of camphor) or solutions of solid -combinations in fluid. The latter, on exposure to low temperatures, -separate into two portions, one solid, called _stearoptene_, and the -other liquid, called _elæoptene_. The boiling point of the volatile -oils is considerably higher than that of water, but when heated with -water they pass over with the vapors. Upon paper, fluid volatile oils -produce grease spots, which differ, however, from those caused by fat -oils in that they gradually disappear at an ordinary temperature, -and rapidly by gentle heating. Most volatile oils are insoluble, or -only with difficulty and sparingly soluble, in water, but they impart -to the latter their odor and taste. They are readily soluble in -alcohol, ether, chloroform, bisulphide of carbon and petroleum-ether, -and miscible in every proportion with fats and fat oils. By their -solubility in alcohol they differ from most fat oils. When freshly -prepared many volatile oils are colorless, but soon turn yellow; -some, however, show a distinct color even when fresh. They ignite -with greater ease than fat oils and burn with a fierce smoky flame -depositing a large amount of carbon. They exhibit a great tendency to -absorb oxygen from the air and to gum, the influence of light promoting -the process. In specific gravity they range from about 0.75 to 1.17, -most of them being specifically lighter than water. Most bodies, under -otherwise equal conditions, show always exactly the same specific -gravity, the variations being so slight that they may be justly -ascribed to errors of observation. However, one and the same volatile -oil frequently shows such variations in specific gravity, that we are -forced to ascribe this phenomenon to alterations in the constitution -of the oil itself. For the exact determination of the specific gravity -of a volatile oil, it should, therefore, be subjected to examination -immediately after its preparation from the plant or vegetable -substance, which should be as fresh as possible. The influence of -light upon volatile oils is best shown by the following interesting -experiment: If certain volatile oils are distilled in a vacuum or over -burnt lime in a current of carbonic acid, it is no longer possible -to distinguish, for instance, oil of lemon from oil of turpentine; -however, by again exposing the oils to the air, they reacquire their -characteristic odor. - -According to their elementary composition the volatile oils may be -divided into three principal divisions:-- - -1. Volatile oils free from oxygen, terpene (camphene), or hydrocarbons. - -2. Oxygenated volatile oils. - -3. Volatile oils containing sulphur. - -On account of the facility with which most of the volatile oils absorb -oxygen, oils originally free from oxygen are frequently a mixture of -hydrocarbons and combinations containing oxygen. The volatile oils -varying so much in their physical as well as their chemical properties, -a suitable classification of them has thus far been unsuccessful. - -Most of the volatile oils contain a liquid hydrocarbon, _terpene_, -which is characterized neither by special taste nor odor, nor is -the peculiarity of a volatile oil dependent on it. In the direct -distillation of a volatile oil, for instance, lemon oil, this -hydrocarbon (citrene), passes first over and can, therefore, be readily -separated from the constituents on which depend the peculiarity -of lemon oil, and which distil over at a higher temperature. The -specific character of an oil is generally due to the portion of the -oil containing oxygen. Hence, manufacturers have endeavored to free -several of the volatile oils, used for perfumery and the preparation of -food, from the worthless terpene and at the same time to obtain them -in a concentrated form. Carvol is, for instance, caraway oil freed -from carvene (terpene). These concentrated oils are not only purer and -more agreeable in odor and taste and more readily soluble in dilute -alcohol, but, being more concentrated, an equal volume of them goes -much further than ordinary volatile oil. In the price lists these oils -are designated as _extra strong_, _patented_, _concentrated_, _highly -concentrated oils_ or _essences_. - -All the terpenes occurring in the various oils are combinations -having the formula C_{10}H_{16}, or polymeric with it, C_{15}H_{24}, -C_{20}H_{32}, etc. These terpenes exhibiting certain deviations in -regard to their properties, odor, specific gravity, and boiling -points, nearly as many terpenes as there are volatile oils have been -distinguished. It is, however, very likely that these deviations -may be traced back to fortuitous circumstances, for example, to -the admixture of foreign substances occurring together with the -terpenes, and that, by a more accurate examination, the number of -terpenes entitled to be considered pure chemical combinations will be -considerably reduced. By Wallach's labors, the identity of several -terpenes formerly considered distinct, has already been established, -whilst many others have been found to possess properties in common. - -According to the nature and quantity of the odoriferous substances -contained in the plants, various methods, namely, _expression_, -_distillation_, _extraction_, _maceration_, and _absorption_, are -employed for the purpose of obtaining them. - -_Expression._--This is only practicable when the substances are -especially rich in oil and of sufficient softness, as in the case with -the peel of the orange, citron, lemon, etc. In such instances the -material is simply placed in a linen cloth and subjected to a strong -pressure until it ceases to yield oil. The press may be of any size -according to the quantity to be expressed. For small quantities it -generally consists of an iron vessel, having a small opening at the -bottom so that the oil may flow out. The material is placed upon a -perforated bottom inside of the vessel and covered with a well-fitting -iron plate, that can be pressed down by means of a screw. Though the -material is fairly exhausted by such a press, for large operations it -is advisable to make use of a hydraulic press, which is constructed and -managed in exactly the same manner as those used for the expression of -fixed oils. - -By expression a turbid milky fluid is obtained, which consists of -the volatile oil and aqueous substances. The latter are a solution of -various extractive substances and salts in water. This fluid, as it -runs from the press, is received in tall, narrow, glass vessels and -brought into a cool place for clarification. This frequently requires -several days, three distinct layers being generally distinguished. On -the bottom is a mucous layer consisting of cell substances carried -along by the liquid bodies. Over this is a clear fluid consisting -of a solution of extractive substances, vegetable albumen, and -salts, and upon this floats the volatile oil, being specifically the -lightest body, which, by its greater refractive power, can be clearly -distinguished from the aqueous fluid. - -The oil is separated by bringing all that has been expressed into a -bottle provided near the bottom with a lateral neck closed by a cock. -After separating the oil from the aqueous fluid, the latter is allowed -to escape by opening the cock. - -The oil obtained in this manner is still impure, and requires further -treatment to remove small vegetable fibres, invisible to the naked eye, -which float in them, and cause them to be somewhat opaque and slightly -opalescent. By their subsequent decomposition they would also give the -oil a disagreeable odor. - -There are two methods of obtaining the oil entirely clear, viz., -filtration and distillation. Filtration is the cheaper process, but -requires special precautions to exclude the air as much as possible to -prevent the oil from undergoing injurious changes. By arranging the -filtering apparatus so that the oil always comes in contact with only -the same quantity of air, the injurious action of the oxygen is reduced -to a minimum. It is self-evident that the apparatus should not be -placed in the sun, but in a semi-dark, cool place. - - [Illustration: FIG. 1.] - -A filter of simple construction, and performing excellent service, is -shown in Fig. 1. It consists of a large glass bottle, _F_, hermetically -closed by a doubly-perforated cork. The neck of the glass funnel _T_, -the upper rim of which is ground smooth, is placed in one of the holes, -and a glass tube, _r_, bent at a right angle, is fitted into the second -hole. A thick wooden lid, with a rubber ring on the lower side, is -placed upon the funnel, thus closing it air-tight. In the centre of the -lid is fitted a glass tube, _r´_, also bent at a right angle, which is -connected with the tube _r_, by a rubber hose, _k_. After the funnel -has been provided with filtering paper and the oil to be filtered, the -lid is placed upon it, and must not be removed, except for the purpose -of pouring more oil into the funnel. The air in the bottle _F_ is -displaced by the oil dropping into it, and escapes through _r_, _k_ and -_r´_ into the funnel, and thus only the air in the bottle and funnel -can act upon the oil. - -The other method for the complete purification of expressed oil is -by rectification or distillation with water. For this purpose the -oil, together with a little water, is brought into one of the stills -described later on, and the oil distilled over. It is sometimes -difficult to obtain the last portion of the oil, especially with a -still heated by direct fire, and it is therefore preferable to combine -it with a fresh quantity of the same oil to be distilled. - -_Distillation._--There are at present two methods in use. The one is -founded upon the direct action of the heat, the other upon the use -of steam. The first was formerly in general practice, and is still -largely employed in France and England, and to a limited extent in -this country. It is, however, very deficient in many respects. As the -stills must necessarily be of small capacity, only small quantities -can be distilled at one time, and the oils very rarely possess the -peculiar odor due to them, and sometimes the odor is even altered. -In mixing too little water with the materials to be extracted, there -is danger that empyreumatic oils will be formed; a large quantity of -water, on the other hand, is of disadvantage, in so far as in case -the perfume-materials contain little oil, only a perfumed water, but -no oil, will be obtained. In order to avoid these inconveniences, or, -at least, to do away with some of them, another plan was devised. The -materials to be distilled were spread upon sieves, which were suspended -in the upper part of a still, so that they might be penetrated from -below. It is true no scorching is possible in this case, as was in the -other process when the heating was continued after all the water had -evaporated, and the oil retains its proper color, but by this method -only small quantities can be extracted at a time. The still generally -used for distillation with direct heat resembles so much an ordinary -whiskey still as to need no further description here. - - [Illustration: FIG. 2.] - -For the accurate determination of the percentage of volatile oil a -vegetable substance will yield, or to obtain the oil from very costly -raw materials, the small glass apparatus, Fig. 2, is used. The flask -_A_, with a capacity of up to 5 or 6 quarts, serves for a still. In -the tube _t_, shaped like the neck of a bottle, is inserted by means -of a cork, a funnel tube, _l_, reaching to the bottom of the flask. -The neck of the flask passes into the cooling pipe, which lies in a -so-called Liebig cooler. This consists of a wide-glass tube, _C_, into -the lower end of which, at _h_, flows cold water from the reservoir -_D_, displacing the heated water at _g_. The lower end of the cooling -pipe is connected with the neck-shaped tube _v_, under which stands the -vessel for the reception of the distillate. To prevent the cracking of -the flask, which might readily happen with the use of direct heat, it -is placed in a vessel filled with sand or water. - - [Illustration: FIG. 3.] - -A very good small apparatus for the distillation of volatile oil is -shown in Fig. 3. It is known as a siphon still. It consists of a -double-walled boiler, surmounted by a still-head, which is provided -with a mechanism for keeping the contents of the boiler in motion. This -stirring apparatus consists of a perpendicular shaft, bearing a frame -work of iron, curved so as to correspond to the interior shape of the -still, and on the outside carrying a chain which scrapes over the inner -surface of the still while the stirrer is being turned. This may be -done either by hand or by steam. The still having been charged with -the material to be extracted, is filled up with water to within a few -inches of the top of the body of the still, and the latter is heated by -admitting steam. The vapors arising are conducted to a cooler situated -at a higher level than the still itself, and the condensed liquid -is collected in a receiver, where the oil and water separate. This -receiver is provided with two faucets, one near the top and the other -near the bottom. If the oil passing over is heavier than water, the -excess of the latter is removed by the upper faucet; if the oil swims -on the water, the lower faucet is regulated so as to allow the water -to escape in about the same ratio as it enters the receiver. In either -case the condensed water is made to run back into the still, and the -loss of oil is, therefore, greatly reduced. - -Sometimes a single-walled still is used, and distillation carried on -with direct steam. This method is, however, not suitable where the -presence of water is necessary, for instance, in the production of oil -of bitter almonds. - -A simple way of converting an ordinary still into use with steam is -shown in Fig. 4. For the helmet of the still _A_ is substituted a -cylindrical vessel, _B_, with an opening in the bottom. The materials -to be distilled are brought into _B_, and rest upon a wire bottom -to prevent particles from falling into _A_. From the upper portion -of _B_ a pipe, _R_, leads to the condenser. As may be seen from the -illustration, the still _A_ serves only for the generation of steam. -The latter, in passing through _B_, heats the contents and absorbs the -liberated oil, the combined vapors passing into the condenser. - - [Illustration: FIG. 4.] - -This simple modification of the ordinary still affords some advantage, -the principal being the avoidance of the condensation of a large -quantity of water. This in itself would not amount to much, but it has -to be taken into consideration that, though volatile oils are only very -sparingly soluble in water, they are nevertheless soluble in it to -such a degree as to impart to it their characteristic odor and taste. -Such aromatized water can be utilized in the manufacture of liqueurs -and perfumery, but to the manufacturer who restricts himself to the -production of volatile oils alone, this represents a loss, and it is -therefore necessary for him to condense as little water as possible. -And this object can only be attained by the use of direct steam. - -A simple apparatus for the purpose is shown in Fig. 5. The still _b_, -provided with a helmet, rests free upon a suitable support. To prevent -cooling, it is surrounded with a wooden jacket, _M_. The material to be -extracted rests upon a perforated bottom, beneath which enters the pipe -_HD_, which conducts the steam from the boiler. For the more uniform -distribution of the steam, it is recommended to let this pipe end in -a perforated coil. The water condensed in the apparatus itself is -discharged through the short pipe _H_, placed in the lowest part of the -still. - - [Illustration: FIG. 5.] - -An improved apparatus for distilling dry substances by steam has -been patented in Germany by Messrs. Schimmel & Co., of Leipzic. The -tall conical column at the left (Fig. 6) is the still. About eight -inches from the bottom is a perforated diaphragm or false bottom, -upon which the material to be distilled is placed by introducing it -through the still-head. A perforated coil below the diaphragm projects -steam upwards through the mass, which is occasionally agitated from -without by means of a horizontal stirring apparatus indicated by the -two crosses. Any condensed water which may run back is converted into -steam by the heating coil at the bottom. Meanwhile, the mass itself is -heated by a long coil lining the body of the still and carrying steam -at a high pressure. Whatever of volatile oil is carried forward by the -steam passes through the still-head into the cooler on the right, where -both oil and steam are condensed, and from where they flow through a -small funnel tube into three successive receivers, which are arranged -like Florentine flasks, and which retain the volatile oil that has -separated. From the last receiver the water, which is still impregnated -with oil, enters another reservoir, shown in the illustration only by -dots, and from there it flows into a small globular still situated -underneath; in which, by means of steam, nearly all the oil still -retained is again volatilized with the steam of the water and both -again conducted to the cooler. - - [Illustration: FIG. 6.] - -Attempts have been made to effect the distillation of volatile -oils without the use of steam by means of hot air, but comparative -experiments have shown that less oil is obtained. With the use of -steam, the vegetable substances swell up by the absorption of water, -and thus afford a free passage to the oil, liberated from the sacs -containing it. With the use of hot air, on the other hand, the surface -of the plant is completely dried and shrivels to a hard solid mass, -which offers considerable resistance to the process of distillation. - -This injurious effect of hot air can be somewhat overcome by thoroughly -moistening the plants to be distilled, and allowing the hot air, -before entering the still, to pass through a pipe filled with sponges -constantly kept wet. But this process offers no advantages over that by -steam. The apparatus required is far more complicated; and, besides, -a ventilator has to be provided for forcing the hot air through the -apparatus. - -_Separation of the oil and water._--As previously mentioned the -specific gravity of most volatile oils is less than that of water. This -behavior is utilized for the separation of the oil and water, by means -of a so-called Florentine flask (Fig. 7). It consists of a glass flask -provided near the bottom with a pipe, _a_, rising vertically to near -the neck _c_ of the flask where it is bent downwards as shown in the -illustration. The mixed liquid of water and oil drips from the cooling -pipe into the flask, and the water _w_, being specifically heavier, -separates from the oil floating on the top, and gradually ascends in -the pipe _a_, finally flowing over at _d_. Oils specifically heavier -than water are caught in receivers provided with a discharge-pipe near -the mouth of the flask as shown in Fig. 8. - - [Illustration: FIG. 7.] - - [Illustration: FIG. 8.] - -The oil delivered from the receivers is, however, still mixed with -some water, dirt, etc., and for their separation is allowed to stand -quietly for some time. The final separation is effected either by -simply pouring off the oil, especially if larger quantities have to be -handled, or with the assistance of a separator-funnel (Fig. 9). This -consists of the glass-funnel _T_ secured to the stand _G_, and provided -with a close-fitting lid, _P_. The fluid is poured into the funnel, the -lid placed in position, and the whole allowed to rest until the water -_W_ is completely separated from the oil _O_. The oil is then separated -from the last drops of water by carefully opening the faucet _H_. - -Most volatile oils are obtained by distillation, but this method is -not practicable for separating the odoriferous principle of many of the -most sweet-scented and delicate flowers, partially because the flowers -contain too little oil, and partially because the oil would lose in -quality if obtained by distillation. - - [Illustration: FIG. 9.] - -_Extraction._--For obtaining the volatile oils by extraction various -solvents such as ether, bisulphide of carbon, etc., may be employed. -Carefully rectified petroleum-ether is very suitable for the purpose. -It completely evaporates at about 122° F., and when sufficiently -purified does not possess a disagreeable odor. The process of -extraction is briefly as follows: The material to be extracted is -treated in a digester with petroleum-ether or one of the above-named -solvents. The solution is then drawn off and the solvent evaporated -in a still. The recondensed solvent flows immediately back into the -digester and further extracts the material contained therein. The -operation is repeated until nothing soluble remains. In practice some -difficulties are, however, connected with this process since, besides -the volatile oils, resins, and coloring and extractive substances are -dissolved, which have to be removed, as well as the last traces of the -solvent, as otherwise the oil would acquire a foreign odor. Further -the solvents mentioned are very volatile and inflammable, requiring -the greatest precautions as regards fire. For these reasons the -extraction process is not suitable for many purposes, and though at -first great hopes were entertained in regard to it, its use is limited -to substances with a large content of volatile oil. - - [Illustration: FIG. 10.] - -For extraction on a small scale, the apparatus, Fig. 10, is a very -suitable one. It is especially adapted for manufacturers of perfumery, -who wish to extract fresh flowers. It consists of a cylindrical vessel, -_C_, of tin plate, provided on the bottom with the stop-cock _a_ and -the pipe _b_. The lid _D_ fits into a gutter, _R_, running around the -edge of _C_, and is hermetically closed by water in _R_. The cylinder -is filled with the vegetable substance to be extracted, and sufficient -petroleum-ether or bisulphide of carbon to cover it, poured in. The lid -is then adjusted, the gutter _R_ filled with water and the apparatus -allowed to stand quietly for forty minutes. To remove the fluid from -the cylinder, the faucet _o_ in the lid is first opened, and then the -stop-cock _a_; the fluid escapes at _b_, and is caught in a well-closed -vessel. The operation may be repeated once or twice, or the vegetable -substance is pressed out by means of a wooden plate, and the apparatus -filled anew. The faucet _h_ serves for emptying the gutter _R_. - - [Illustration: FIG. 11.] - -Extraction being finished, the cock _o_ is opened, and then the cock -_a_, and the fluid allowed to run into the flask of the distilling -apparatus (Fig. 2). For working on a large scale, the flask is, -however, too small, and is suitably replaced by a bottle-shaped tin -vessel, _F_ (Fig. 11), the conical cover _D_ of which is secured by -means of the rubber ring _R_ and iron screw-clamps, _S_. A bent glass -tube fitted into the cover is connected with the cooling-pipe of the -apparatus shown in Fig. 2. But the oils prepared by extraction are not -sufficiently purified by mere rectification, as traces of the solvent -adhere tenaciously to them, which can only be removed by passing a -current of air through the oil. But contact with air has an injurious -effect upon the delicacy of the odor. For expensive oils a current of -air should therefore never be used, but one of pure carbonic acid. -Fig. 12 shows a suitable apparatus for the purpose. The large bottle -_A_, filled half full with pieces of white marble, is closed with -a doubly-perforated cork; through one of the holes is inserted a -funnel-tube, and through the other a short tube bent at a right angle. -The latter is connected with another tube which reaches to the bottom -of the vessel _B_, in which is also inserted a tube open in the bottom, -and a short tube bent at a right angle. Alongside _B_ stands another -vessel, _C_, arranged in the same manner. The tube leading from _C_ is -connected with a tin pipe, _D_, with a rose-like expansion on its lower -end. This pipe is inserted in the glass balloon containing the volatile -oil. Finally, a pipe leads to the flask _F_, filled with water. - - [Illustration: FIG. 12.] - -To put the apparatus in operation, strongly diluted hydrochloric acid -is poured through the funnel-tube upon the pieces of marble in _A_, -which causes the development of a current of carbonic acid. But as the -latter carries along water and hydrochloric acid, it has to be freed -from them before coming in contact with the volatile oil. The vessels -_B_ and _C_ serve for the purpose. _B_ is half filled with water, -while _C_ contains strong sulphuric acid. In _B_ the hydrochloric acid -carried along with the current of carbonic acid is retained, while the -water is fixed on the sulphuric acid in _C_. The current of carbonic -acid passing out from _C_ is perfectly pure, and enters the volatile -oil through the fine perforations in the pipe _D_. It absorbs the -traces of solvent still adhering to the oil, and finally passes out -through the water in the bottle _F_. - -Volatile oils obtained by extraction, and purified by a current of -carbonic acid, will keep for years without undergoing alteration, if -placed immediately in hermetically closed vessels and stored in a dark -place. Oils purified by a current of air always become somewhat thickly -fluid by storing, and partially lose their fine odor, which is due to -the oxygen absorbed during the process. - -For the extraction of oil on a larger scale, the apparatus shown in -Fig. 13 is very suitable. It consists of two principal parts, the -actual extracting vessel _E_, and the still _B_. The extracting vessel -_E_ sits in a vat containing cold water, _W_, the arrangement being -such that the heated water can be removed and replaced by cold. The -still _B_ sits in a boiler, _K_, filled with hot water. - -The apparatus is charged as follows: The conical head _C_ of the -extracting vessel _E_ is unscrewed and its connection at _H_ with the -pipe _R_ loosened. The extracting vessel is then charged with the -vegetable substance, the head _C_ replaced, and the connection with the -pipe _R_ restored. The cocks _H_{2} and _H_{4} are then opened, and -the required quantity of solvent is brought into the still. Both cocks -are then closed, and the cocks _H_ and _H_{1} opened. The water in the -boiler is then heated until the contents of the still commence to boil. -The vapor of the solvent ascends through the pipe _R_; on entering the -extracting vessel _E_ it is condensed, and after falling as a spray -upon the material to be extracted, finally returns impregnated with -volatile oil to the still _B_. Here the solvent is revaporized, and -passes again through the material in the extracting vessel, while the -extracted oil remains in the still. During the boiling of the solvent -the extracting vessel must be suitably cooled by the constant admission -of cold water. - - [Illustration: FIG. 13.] - -When extraction is finished, the cocks _H_ and _H_{1} are closed, and -the cock _H_{2}, which is connected with a cooling worm, is opened. -The solvent is then evaporated, and regained by condensation. The oil -is discharged, from the still through a pipe in the bottom provided -with the cock _H_{3}. - -The apparatus may also be so arranged that the still _B_ is connected -with two extracting vessels which are used alternately, while the -contents of one are being extracted the other is emptied and refilled. - - [Illustration: FIG. 14.] - -For working on a very large scale, Heyl's extracting apparatus, shown -in Fig. 14, is very suitable. It consists of a battery of four or more -cast iron or sheet iron cylinders, _A_{1} to _A_{4}, communicating -with each other and surrounded by steam jackets. The extracting -vessels are so arranged that they can be emptied by tilting, which is -rather inconvenient, as all the pipes have to be unscrewed. In each -cylinder close above the bottom is a perforated plate covered with -fine wire-gauze, upon which the material to be extracted is placed. -The cylinder is filled to the top, and, after placing a similar plate -upon it, the upper opening is closed by a lid suspended to a crane. The -cylinder, as well as the lid, is provided with a broad flange, between -which is placed a hemp tissue firmly pressed together by 12 clamps to -serve for packing. After filling the cylinders with the material to be -extracted and arranging the packing, the solvent (bisulphide of carbon) -is conducted from a reservoir through the principal pipe, _B_, to the -extracting vessels, and is introduced into _A_{2} by opening the cock -_C_{2}, which communicates with the pipe _B_. The bisulphide of carbon -passes through the bent pipe _D_{1}, enters through the cock _E_{2}, -below the false bottom of the cylinder _A_{2}, and, after penetrating -the mass and filling the cylinder, runs through the cock _C_{2} of -the bent pipe _D_{2}, and the cock _E_{3} into the cylinder _A_{3}, -reaching the fourth cylinder in the same manner through the cock -_C_{3}, the pipe _D_{3}, and the cock _E_{4}. From the last cylinder -it passes as a thoroughly saturated oil solution into a reservoir, in -which a vacuum has been created to promote the circulation of the fluid -in the entire apparatus. After a quantity of oil solution corresponding -to the contents of the cylinder _A_{4} has arrived, the cock _G_{4} -is closed and the cock _C_{4} opened, whereby the cylinder _A_{4} is -connected with _A_{1} by the bent pipe _D_{4} and the cock _E_{1}. - -After the exhaustion of the contents of the cylinder _A_{2}, which -is recognized by means of the glass tube _H_{2} placed on _D_{2} by -the fluid running off being colorless, the cocks _C_{1} and _E_{2} -are closed, and _C_{2} and _E_{3} opened, whereby the solvent runs -into _A_{3}, and from there to _A_{4} and _A_{1}; _A_{2} being -omitted. To effect this omission, and at the same time not to prevent -the introduction of bisulphide of carbon, _C_{1}, _C_{2}, _C_{3}, -and _C_{4}, are so-called two-way cocks, which, when placed in one -position, connect the principal pipe _B_ with the branch pipes _D_, but -interrupt a further flow through the principal pipe _B_; while in the -other position they close the pipes _D_ and open the principal pipe _B_. - -The cylinder _A_{2} is, however, still filled with the solvent and -material saturated with it. To remove the solvent, the discharge cock -_K_{2} on the bottom of the cylinder is opened, which communicates -with the discharge pipe _J_, through which the bisulphide of carbon -is conducted into a reservoir. The discharge is promoted by opening -the cock _M_{2}, connected with the pipe _L_, and the admittance of -compressed air, which displaces the liquid solvent. After the flow -of the latter has ceased, the steam cocks on the jacket _O_{2} and -the cylinder _P_{2} are opened under constant admission of air and -simultaneous introduction of steam through the pipe _N_ into the upper -part of the cylinder. - -The solvent (bisulphide of carbon) converted into vapor by the heat, -is conducted together with the aqueous vapor, by the admission of air -through the cock _K_{2}, the pipe _J_, and a cooling pipe placed -between the extracting vessels and the reservoir, and collected in a -reservoir to be re-used. - -On account of the great volatility of bisulphide of carbon, -considerable loss would, however, be incurred by the above-mentioned -admission of air. To avoid this, the reservoir serving for the -reception of the condensed bisulphide of carbon and aqueous vapor -is closed, and connected by a pipe with a long, narrow, horizontal -cylinder half filled with oil, and provided with a fan-shaft. The -vapors of bisulphide of carbon entering the cylinder from the reservoir -are absorbed, together with the air by the oil, the surface of which is -constantly agitated by the fan-shaft, while the air, rendered entirely -inodorous, passes out at the other end. The bisulphide of carbon is -finally separated from the oil by distillation and again used. - -After the cylinder _A_{2} is sufficiently steamed, it is emptied and -again charged with material and connected with the cylinder _A_{1}; -while the other cylinders undergo the same manipulations described -above. - - [Illustration: FIG. 15.] - -The saturated oil solution is subjected to distillation, which is -readily effected in Heyl's apparatus, Fig. 15. The lower part of the -still _A_ of boiler plate is surrounded by the steam-jacket _B_, into -which steam is admitted through _C_ and the condensed water discharged -through _D_. The concentrated oil solution runs from a reservoir, -standing at a higher level through the pipe _E_ into the still, the -admission of a sufficient quantity being indicated by the gauge _F_. -The bisulphide of carbon brought to the boiling point (114° F.) by the -steam introduced into the jacket, vaporizes quickly; the vaporization -being still more accelerated by revolving the stirrer _H_, by means of -the crank _G_. The vapors of bisulphide of carbon escape through four -openings in the upper part of the still, into a capacious worm, the -lower part of which enters, under water, a reservoir. - -Notwithstanding the volatility of bisulphide of carbon, the oil retains -a portion of it so tenaciously that a complete separation cannot -be accomplished by the introduction of steam into the jacket _B_. -Hence, in order to vaporize the last traces of the solvent, air is -introduced into the oil through the pipe _K_, the lower end of which is -perforated. After completed distillation the oil is discharged through -_L_. - -_Maceration or infusion._--This process is employed for flowers with an -inconsiderable content of volatile oil or whose odoriferous substance -would suffer decomposition or alteration by distillation. The process -is founded on the affinity of odoriferous substances for fatty bodies -which, when impregnated with them, are called _pomades_. These are -afterwards made to yield the aroma to strong alcohol, so that finally -there is obtained a solution of the volatile oil in alcohol from which -the pure oil is obtained by distilling off the alcohol. The fat used, -olive oil, lard, etc., should be entirely neutral, _i. e._, free from -every trace of acid. The fats are purified by treating them several -times in the heat with weak soda-lye and then washing carefully with -water until the last traces of the lye are removed, and the fat shows -no alkaline or acid reaction. - -With the use of olive oil the so-called "_Huiles antiques_" are -obtained, which are merely solutions of volatile oils in the fixed oil. -By the use of lard, etc., the genuine _pomades_ are obtained, which are -directly used as expensive articles of perfumery, but in the factories -serve as a starting point for the preparation of volatile oils. - -The old process of maceration, which is still in use in some parts -of France, is as follows: A certain quantity of fat is placed in an -enameled iron or porcelain pan provided with a water or steam bath. -When the fat is melted, the freshly gathered flowers from which the -aroma is to be extracted are thrown in and left to digest for from -twelve to twenty-four hours, the fat being kept fluid and stirred -frequently. When the flowers are completely exhausted, the fat is -strained from them into fresh pots, in which it is again macerated with -fresh flowers as before. This operation is repeated ten to fifteen -times until the pomade has acquired the desired strength. - -Experience, however, has shown that volatile oils prepared by this -process possess a finer odor the shorter the time the flowers remain -in contact with the fat. Piver has devised an apparatus which reduces -the time of maceration to the shortest period possible. The kettle to -the left, Fig. 16, supplies the fat heated to the proper temperature, -which circulates slowly through the macerating tank, in which a -constant temperature of 149° F. is maintained by means of a steam pipe. -The macerating tank is divided into compartments, in which baskets -containing the vegetable substance to be extracted are suspended. The -basket on the left contains the substance which has passed through -all the compartments; it is from time to time removed, filled with -fresh substance, and then attached to the right, the other baskets -being moved to the next compartment to the left. In this way the fresh -substance has to traverse each compartment from right to left, while -the fat flows slowly from left to right, and saturated with the perfume -of the substance collects in the tank on the extreme right. - - [Illustration: FIG. 16.] - -Maceration is employed for the flowers of the orange (_citrus -aurantum_), of the mock orange (_Philadelphus coronarius_), of the -acacia (_acacia Farnesiana_), of the violet (_viola odorata_), of the -mignonette (_réséda odorata_), etc. - -The process of _absorption_, or "_enfleurage_," as it is called by the -French, is chiefly made use of for procuring the odoriferous principle -of very delicate flowers, the delicious odor of which would be greatly -modified, if not entirely spoiled, by the application of heat. The -older apparatus employed for the purpose consists of a number of -shallow wooden frames of about 15×18 inches, inclosing at half their -depth a sheet of glass. The edges of the frame rise about an inch above -each surface of the glass, and, being flat, the frames stand securely -upon one another, forming often considerable stacks. These frames -are called "_chassis_," those just described being termed "_chassis -aux vitres_," or "_chassis aux pomades_," to distinguish them from a -different form, which is used where oil has to be submitted to the -process of absorption. The process in the case of pomade is as follows: -Each sheet of glass is uniformly coated with a thin layer of purified -grease, care being taken that the grease does not come in contact with -the woodwork of the frames. The flowers are then thinly sprinkled, or -rather laid, one by one, upon the surface of the fat, where they are -allowed to remain one or two days, when they are removed and replaced -by fresh ones. The operation is thus continued for twenty-five or -thirty days, until the fat is saturated with aroma. The frames charged -with fat and flowers are stacked one upon the other, forming, in fact, -a number of little rectangular chambers. - -For _perfuming oils_ a metal sieve, Fig. 17, is substituted for the -glass plate. Upon the sieve a piece of thick cotton cloth saturated -with oil is laid, and upon this the flowers are scattered, and left -there until fresh ones have to be substituted. The operation is -repeated until the oil is sufficiently impregnated with aroma, when -the cloth is subjected to pressure and the expressed oil filtered. - - [Illustration: FIG. 17.] - -This process is very tedious, requiring much labor and a long time for -the impregnation of the fat or oil, but, notwithstanding its faults, it -is still pursued to a great extent, some French firms using 3000 such -frames during the season. - -With the apparatus, shown in Fig. 18, the process of absorption can, -however, be conducted with very little expense of labor and time. -It has the further advantage that the flowers do not come in direct -contact with the fat, whereby a saving of the latter is effected, and -it is less liable to rancidity. - -The apparatus consists of a tall wooden box provided with doors which -can be hermetically closed. In the box are placed upon brackets a -number of glass plates, _g_, so arranged one above the other that, for -instance, those with uneven numbers are on the left side, leaving an -open space to the right, while those with even numbers are arranged on -the right side with an open space to the left. - -From the bottom of the box a pipe passes into a sheet-iron cylinder, -_K´_, filled loosely with flowers, and provided with lateral openings, -_O_ and _O´_. From the lid of the box _K_ ascends a pipe, _e_, which -is connected with a small ventilating apparatus kept in motion by a -clockwork and weights. This ventilator when in motion sucks a current -of air through the apparatus. The air enters the cylinder _K´_ at _O_, -and after ascending through the flowers and becoming impregnated with -the vapors of the volatile oil enters through the opening _O´_ into the -box _K_ and, in passing in the direction indicated by arrows, over the -plates coated with fat, yields its aroma to them. - - [Illustration: FIG. 18.] - -Another apparatus for the same purpose, devised by Piver, is shown -in Fig. 19. The fat is converted into thin macaroni-like threads -and brought upon wire gauze stretched in frames. The flowers to -be extracted are piled upon tinned metallic plates, and the trays -containing the fat and the flowers are placed in an air-tight chamber -arranged as shown in the illustration. The air in the chamber is made -to circulate to and fro by the working of a bellows with which the -apparatus is provided, whereby the fat is caused to absorb the odor of -the flowers very rapidly and is less liable to rancidity. - - [Illustration: FIG. 19.] - -The absorption process is employed for the flowers of the jasmine -(_jasminum oderatissimum_), the mignonnette (_réséda odorata_), the -violet (_viola tricolor_), the tuberose (_polianthes tuberosa_), etc. - -_Storage of volatile oils._--In storing volatile oils, they should -be carefully protected from light and air. Some oils become darker -on exposure to light, while others, for instance, lemon oil, become -colorless. Most volatile oils, as previously mentioned, absorb oxygen -from the air with avidity and combine chemically with it. Thinly-fluid -oils become perceptibly more thickly-fluid and finally even rigid, -the product of oxidation being a resinous body. Some volatile oils -containing aldehydes are converted, by the absorption of oxygen, into -acids, cinnamic acid being, for instance, formed in cinnamon oil, and -benzoic acid in oil of bitter almonds. - -To prevent evaporation, as well as the above-mentioned effects of -light and air, the volatile oils should be preserved in not too large -glass bottles kept as full as possible, and closed with a good cork, -over which it is best to tie a piece of bladder. The bottles should be -stored in a cool, shady place. The preservation of the oils is assisted -by the addition of 0.5 to 1 per cent. of anhydrous alcohol. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -TESTING VOLATILE OILS. - - -Volatile oils are much adulterated, the adulterations consisting -chiefly in mixing an expensive oil with a cheaper one and with alcohol; -more rarely with chloroform and fat oils. To these adulterations, which -have been common for many years, has recently been added the previously -mentioned hydrocarbon called terpene or camphene, which is separated in -the preparation of concentrated oils. - -For the recognition of the quality of a volatile oil, serve first of -all its physical properties, especially its color, odor and taste. -The specific gravity varies too much and is not always a sufficient -criterion. Reagents can only be employed with a few oils. The chemical -detection of adulterations is rendered especially difficult by the -fact, that most of the volatile oils form a mixture of terpenes with -other combinations, in which the separate constituent parts do not -appear in fixed, but in changeable proportions, and in which the -constituents themselves suffer alteration by storing, air and light. - -_Odor and taste_ are so characteristic for every volatile oil as to -suffice in most cases. For testing as to odor, bring a drop of the oil -to be examined upon the dry palm of one hand and for some time rub -with the other, whereby the odor is more perceptibly brought out. To -determine the taste, vigorously shake one drop of the oil with 15 to 20 -grammes of distilled water and then test with the tongue. - -An adulteration with _fat oil_ (poppy oil, castor oil) may be -recognized as follows: Place a drop of the suspected oil upon blotting -paper and expose it to the heat of the water bath. If it evaporates -completely and no stain is perceptible, the oil is pure. But frequently -a transparent stain remains with old oils without their being -adulterated, which is due to the resin formed by the absorption of -oxygen and remaining dissolved in the oil. In this case a transparent -ring is generally formed by the concentration of the resin on the -edges of the stain. If no tangible results are obtained by this test, -pour a few cubic centimeters of the oil upon a watch-crystal and -heat it very slowly upon a piece of sheet-iron, until all the odor -has disappeared. If the watch-crystal becomes empty in a short time, -nothing but volatile oil was present; but if a viscous residue remains, -this may consist either of fatty oil or resin, or of both. Treat the -residue with strong alcohol; if it dissolves it may be resin or castor -oil. Dilute the solution with much water; a white flocculent turbidity -indicates resin; the separation of an oily liquid, after standing, -castor oil. If the residue remains undissolved, it consists of a fatty -oil, generally oil of almond or olive. - -The presence of castor oil can be accurately determined by bringing -the residue from the watch-crystal into a test-tube by means of a -glass-rod, and compounding it with a few drops of nitric acid. A -strong development of gas takes place, after the cessation of which, -solution of carbonate of soda is added as long as there is any sign -of effervescence. If the added oil was castor oil, the contents of the -test-tube will show a peculiar odor due to œnanthylic acid formed by -the action of nitric acid upon castor oil. - -Another method of establishing the presence of fat oil consists in -mixing the suspected oil with eight times its quantity of 90 per -cent. alcohol (specific gravity 0.823). If the oil is unadulterated a -clear solution is formed; if it contains fat oil, the latter remains -undissolved. The presence of castor oil, which of the fat oils is -chiefly used for adulteration, is, however, not shown by this method, -it being also soluble in alcohol. - -A permanent stain upon the paper may, however, also be formed by fresh -oils obtained by expression from the respective parts of the plant. -Thus, lemon oil obtained by expression from the peel, and which has -a far more agreeable odor than that produced by distillation, always -leaves behind a slight grease-stain. - -_Detection of alcohol or spirit of wine._--Independent of the alcohol -added to assist the preservation of some oils, adulteration with -alcohol frequently occurs, especially in expensive oils. With a content -of not more than 3 per cent. of alcohol, it suffices to allow one to -two drops of the suspected oil to fall into water. In the presence of -alcohol, the drop becomes either immediately surrounded with a milky -zone, or it becomes turbid or whitish after being for some time in -contact with the water. Dragendorff's test is based upon the fact -that oils, which are hydrocarbons, suffer no change by the addition -of sodium (ten drops of oil and a small chip of sodium), while oils -containing hydrocarbons and oxygenated oils cause with sodium a slight -evolution of hydrogen gas, and suffer but a slight change during the -first five to ten minutes of the reaction. If, however, the oil is -adulterated with alcohol, not only a violent evolution of hydrogen gas -takes place, but the oil in a short time becomes brown or dark brown, -thickly fluid or rigid. - -The detection of alcohol by means of fuchsine, which has been -frequently recommended, requires special precautions. It must first -be ascertained that the oil is free from acids and water; if such -is not the case, they must be removed by means of caustic potash. -After settling, bring, by means of a dry pipette, about five cubic -centimeters of the oil into a dry test-tube about ten millimeters -in diameter, without moistening the walls of the upper half of the -tube. Then bring, by means of a paper gutter, a few milligrammes of -coarsely-powdered fuchsine into the dry part of the obliquely held -tube, at a distance of one centimeter from the oil. Now heat gradually -over a lamp until the tube begins to tarnish. With pure oil no -evaporation is observed, but if the oil contains only 0.1 per cent. -of alcohol, every speck of fuchsine will, after heating to boiling -and setting aside, be surrounded by a stain produced by the alcoholic -solution. The chief requirement for this test is that the oil be free -from water. If such is not the case, vapors will be observed, which -condense in the upper portion of the test-tube, and dissolve fuchsine, -and, after flowing back, sink below the oil with a crackling noise. If -the oil contains alcohol, the condensing vapors dissolve fuchsine with -greater ease, and in flowing back mix without crackling. - -Hager's tannin test is very reliable. Bring into a test-tube 5 to 10 -drops of the oil to be examined, add a piece of tannin the size of a -pea, shake so that the tannin is moistened by the oil, and let the -whole stand at a temperature of 59° to 68° F. In most volatile oils -tannin is insoluble, and, if the oil is pure, floats for days on the -surface without change. If, however, the oil contains alcohol, the -tannin absorbs the latter, according to the quantity present, in 3 to -48 hours, and forms with it a more or less transparent, viscous, tough, -or smeary mass resembling a soft resin, which settles on the bottom, -and adheres so firmly to it, as well as to the sides of the tube, that -it cannot be moved by shaking. The mass may be examined as to its -consistency with a knitting needle. Traces of moisture in the oil are -not detrimental to the test, the tannin mass separating in the form of -a hyaline mass only in few oils, and if this mass is tested with the -knitting needle it will be found not tough or smeary, but hard, and may -sometimes be divided into small grains. With oil of bitter almonds, -cassia oil, and some oils of clove, as well as volatile oil containing -an acid, the tannin test is not available. The first two oils even -dissolve tannin, and large quantities of it, if they contain alcohol. - -The above-mentioned oils may, however, be rendered fit for the -tannin test by mixing them with double their volume of benzine or -petroleum-ether, and allowing the mixture to stand for two or three -days. If, however, the oils contain much alcohol, the tannin is -dissolved. The use of powdered tannin is not advisable, because it -generally deposits in a thin layer on the bottom, and its alteration -is not so perceptible. If, for practical reasons, a content of 0.5 per -cent. anhydrous alcohol might be accepted as permissible in a volatile -oil, the tannin test would have to be so modified as to mix 10 drops -of the oil with a piece of tannin the size of two peas, and allow the -whole to stand for one hour. In this time the above-mentioned content -of alcohol would yield no result. - -_Detection of chloroform._--An adulteration with chloroform, if -moderate, cannot always be detected by the odor and taste. In most -cases, chloroform will considerably increase the specific gravity of -the oil. Bring into a test-tube 15 drops of the suspected oil, 45 to 90 -drops of alcohol, and 30 to 40 drops of dilute sulphuric acid. After -thorough shaking, add 2 or 3 shavings of zinc sheet and heat until a -vigorous evolution of hydrogen takes place. After again shaking, set -the whole aside, and heat again when the evolution of gas becomes -weaker. This heating and gentle shaking of the fluid is several times -repeated. After 20 to 25 minutes, compound the fluid with an equal -volume of cold distilled water, shake vigorously and filter through a -paper-filter moistened with water. Strongly acidulate the filtrate with -nitric acid and compound with nitrate of silver solution. If chloroform -is present, turbidity or a precipitate of chloride of silver appears. - -_Detection of benzine._--An adulteration with benzine can be readily -detected only in oils specifically heavier than water. The separation -of benzine is effected by distillation from a small glass flask in the -water bath. The distillate together with an equal volume of nitric acid -of 1.5 specific gravity is gently heated in a test-tube. A too vigorous -reaction is modified by cooling in cold water, and a too sluggish -action quickened by gentle heating (dipping in warm water). If the -mixture has a yellow color, dilute it with water, shake with ether, -mix the decanted ethereal solution with alcohol and hydrochloric acid, -add some zinc and place the whole in a lukewarm place to convert the -nitrobenzol formed into aniline. After evolution of hydrogen is done, -neutralize with potash lye, shake, take off the layer of ether, let the -latter evaporate and add to the residue a few drops of calcium chloride -solution. If benzine is present, a blue-violet color reaction takes -place. - -Adulterations with alcohol, chloroform, and benzine are quantitatively -determined by bringing a weighed quantity of the oil into a glass flask -so that it occupies about four-fifths of the volume of the flask. Place -upon the flask a cork through which has been passed a glass-tube bent -at a right angle and provided with a cylindrical glass vessel serving -as a receiver and heating in the water bath. If the distance from the -level of the oil to the angle of the glass tube in which it inclines -downwards, amounts, for instance, to 4.72 inches, and the neck of the -flask up to its angle is 2.75 inches high outside of the direct effect -of the heat of the water bath, only the above-mentioned adulterants -distill over, while the vapor of the volatile oil condenses at a -height of 2.75 inches and flows back into the flask. The distillate -is weighed and examined as to its derivation. First add one cubic -centimeter of it to two or three cubic centimeters of potassium acetate -solution of specific gravity 1.197 and shake moderately. If a clear -mixture results, alcohol alone is present. If, however, the mixture -is not clear, and the distilled fluid sinks down and collects on the -bottom of the test-tube, chloroform is very likely present, and if -it remains floating upon the acetate solution, benzine. Next bring -two to three centimeters of the distillate into a test-tube and add -a piece of sodium metal, the size of a pea. If violent foaming, _i. -e._, an evolution of gas, takes place, alcohol is certainly present, -and possibly also chloroform and benzine towards which sodium is -indifferent. However, in the presence of benzine, the sodium solution -would be colorless, and in the presence of chloroform, yellowish -and turbid. In case the sodium produces no reaction and alcohol is, -therefore, not present, add an equal volume (two to three cubic -centimeters) of anhydrous alcohol, and after moderately shaking allow -the solution of the sodium and the evolution of gas to proceed, whereby -benzine produces a nearly colorless, turbid fluid, and chloroform a -yellowish, milky one. Now dilute the fluid with an equal or double -volume of water, shake and allow the mixture to stand quietly. In the -presence of benzine a colorless, turbid layer collects on the bottom -of the fluid, while that collecting in the presence of chloroform is -yellowish. In the latter case, _i. e._, in the presence of chloroform, -the aqueous filtrate yields with lead acetate solution a white -precipitate (lead chloride and lead hydroxide). The adulterant having -thus been recognized, further particulars are learned from the specific -gravity of the oil as well as of the distillate. - -Adulterations with _terpenes_ or _terpene-like fluids_, such as are -gained in the preparation of concentrated or patent oils, are difficult -to recognize. They may be detected by the specific gravity, the -terpenes being, as a rule, specifically lighter, their specific gravity -varying between 0.840 and 0.870. - -The detection of _adulterations with volatile oils of a lower quality_ -is very difficult, if not led to it by the odor and taste. Many methods -for establishing such adulterations have been proposed, of which the -following are the most important:-- - -I. _Test with iodine._--This test is based upon the fact that some oils -violently detonate with iodine, while others develop heat and vapors, -and others again remain indifferent. For this test pour upon about 0.19 -gramme of dry iodine in a watch-crystal 4 to 6 drops of the oil to be -examined. - -1. A vigorous reaction (detonation) with considerable increase in the -temperature and emission of vapors takes place with the following -oils: oils of bergamot, lemon, lavender, nutmeg, orange peel, spike, -turpentine, wormwood. - -2. Such a reaction as mentioned under 1, does not take place with oils -of bitter almonds, copaiba, calamus, clove, peppermint, rose. - -3. Moderate heating and slight vapors are developed with oils of -anise-seed, fennel, camomile, curly mint, marjoram, rosemary, -sassafras, thyme. - -When an oil of the second series becomes heated with iodine and evolves -vapors, it may first of all be adulterated with cheaper oils. This may -also be the case when an oil of the third series reacts violently with -iodine and evolves vapors with strong heating. Formerly the iodine test -was highly valued; it has, however, been shown to be unreliable since -it is frequently dependent on the age of the oil. - -In place of iodine, Rudolph Eck recommends a very dilute alcoholic -iodine solution, which is not discolored by oils of turpentine, while -other oils discolor it. Dissolve a drop of the oil to be examined in -3 cubic centimeters of 90 to 100 per cent. alcohol, and add a drop of -the iodine solution. The latter is not discolored in the presence of -an oil of turpentine. There are also, however, several volatile oils, -which do not discolor the iodine solution. Mierzinski mentions the -following: All cold-expressed oils from the _Aurantiaceæ_, further -oils of coriander, caraway, galanga, rue, sassafras, rose, rosemary, -anise-seed, fennel, calamus, neroli, angelica, wormwood. Hence, this -reaction cannot be relied upon. - -II. _Hoppe's nitroprusside of copper test._--This test sometimes gives -good results, but only with hydrocarbons absolutely free from oxygen -and oxygenated oils. It is, therefore, not suitable for oils derived -from the _Aurantiaceæ_. The process is as follows: Add to a small -quantity of the oil to be examined in a perfectly dry test-tube, 2 to -5 milligrammes of pure nitroprusside of copper previously thoroughly -dried and finely pulverized, shake vigorously and gradually heat to -boiling. After boiling for a few seconds allow to cool. If the oil -is free from oil of turpentine, or another oil containing no oxygen, -the precipitate formed is brown, black, or gray, and according to the -quantity of the reagent added and the original color of the oil, the -supernatant oil will be differently colored and appear more or less -dark. If, however, the oil is adulterated with oil of turpentine, -the precipitate formed shows a handsome green or blue-green color, -while the supernatant oil retains its original color or at the utmost -acquires a very slightly darker one. The longer the oil is allowed to -stand after settling, the more distinct and beautiful the color of the -oil and of the precipitate appears. For the establishment and certain -recognition of very small quantities of oil of turpentine in oxygenated -oils, it is best to first add very little of the nitroprusside of -copper to the oil to be tested, and a larger quantity only after being -convinced either of the purity or adulteration of the oil. This is done -to be able, on the one hand, better to judge the reaction, if the oil -is pure, and, on the other, if it is adulterated, to establish such -adulteration with certainty and to approximately estimate the quantity -of oil of turpentine present. The less nitroprusside of copper is used, -the better small quantities of oil of turpentine can be detected. - -Nearly all volatile oils free from oxygen show the same behavior -towards nitroprusside of copper; they decompose it, which is not the -case with oxygenated oils. The behavior of the latter is shown in the -following table:-- - - -------------+---------------+---------------+------------------+------------- - | | Proportion of | Color of the oil | - Name of | Color of the | nitroprusside | after | Color of the - the oil. | oil. | of | the experiment. | precipitate. - | |copper to oil. | | - -------------+---------------+---------------+------------------+------------- - Caraway |clear as water | 1 : 1000 parts|slightly | dirty gray. - | and colorless | | yellowish | - Fennel |pale yellowish | 1 : 1000 " |brownish-yellow | black. - Dill |pale | 1 : 1000 " |becomes first | " - | reddish-yellow| | colorless, then | - | | | yellowish | " - Anise-seed |pale yellow | 1 : 1000 " |yellow | - | | | " | - Camomile | | | | - (green) |yellowish | 1 : 1000 " |brownish-yellow | ash-gray. - Lavender |pale yellow | 1 : 1000 " |wine-yellow | slate-gray. - " | " | 1 : 100 " |brown-yellow | " - Mint (curly) |colorless | 1 : 1000 " |wine-yellow | first gray, - | | | | then black. - Peppermint | " | 1 : 1000 " |yellowish | black. - " | " | 1 : 100 " |brownish-yellow | " - Balm |yellow | 1 : 1000 " |dark wine-yellow | " - Marjoram |colorless | 1 : 1000 " |yellowish | " - " | " | 1 : 100 " |brown-yellow | " - Sage |slightly | 1 : 1000 " |wine-yellow | dark green. - | yellowish | | | - " | " | 1 : 100 " |brown-yellow | dark green, - | | | | then nearly - | | | | black. - Thyme (field)| " | 1 : 1000 " |brownish-yellow | slate-gray. - " | " | 1 : 100 " |dark brown-yellow | nearly black. - Wormwood |yellow-brown | 1 : 1000 " |dark brown | black. - Tansy |pale yellow | 1 : 1000 " |red-brown | dirty brown. - Milfoil |dark | 1 : 1000 " |first pale blue, | gray-brown. - | azure-blue | | then dark green | - Cajeput |colorless | 1 : 1000 " |brownish-yellow | black. - Clove |slightly | 1 : 2000 " |rose-red and clear| slate-gray. - | yellowish | | | - " | " | 1 : 1000 " |violet-red and | " - | | | clear | - " | " | 1 : 500 " |cherry-red | " - | | | and opaque | - " | " | 1 : 100 " |dark cherry-red | " - | | | and opaque | - Cassia |brownish-yellow| 1 : 1000 " |brownish-red to | black. - | | | hyacinth-red | - " | " | 1 : 100 " |dark brown-red | " - Sassafras |yellowish | 1 : 1000 " |yellowish-brown | " - Star anise |pale yellow | 1 : 1000 " |dark wine-yellow | " - Valerian |pale greenish | 1 : 100 " |brownish-yellow | " - Rue |slightly | 1 : 100 " |brown-yellow | ash-gray. - | yellowish | | | - Bergamotte |yellowish | 1 : 1000 " |dark yellow | " - " | " | 1 : 100 " |brownish-red | " - -------------+---------------+---------------+------------------+------------- - -If these oxygenated oils are mixed with oils free from oxygen, for -instance, oil of turpentine, they show exactly the same behavior as -oils free from oxygen; the nitroprusside of copper is not decomposed -and retains its gray-green color. If, for instance, oil of cloves is -mixed with oil of turpentine, the red coloration by nitroprusside of -copper does not appear. - -III. _Hager's alcohol and sulphuric acid test._--Bring into a test-tube -of about 0.5 inch diameter, five to six drops of the oil to be tested -and twenty-five to thirty drops of pure concentrated sulphuric acid, -and mix the two fluids by shaking, whereby either no heating takes -place or a scarcely perceptible one, or the heating is strong or very -vigorous and in some cases increased to the evolution of vapors. The -mixture is either clear or turbid. After complete cooling, add to the -mixture eight to ten cubic centimeters of 90 per cent. alcohol, and -after closing the tube with the finger, shake vigorously. The mixture -now shows a different color, is clear or turbid, and the deposit formed -after standing for one day is also differently colored and either -soluble or insoluble in boiling alcohol. - -The mixture of oil, sulphuric acid and alcohol is perfectly clear -and transparent with oils of bitter almonds, fennel, clove and rose; -with anise-seed oil and star anise-seed oil only the alcoholic layer -over the mixture of sulphuric acid and oil is clear. The mixture of -oil, acid and alcohol is slightly turbid or nearly clear with oils -of valerian, peppermint and field thyme. With most of the other -volatile oils occurring in commerce, the mixture is more or less milky -turbid. Heating of the oil and acid mixtures does not take place with -pyrogenous oils (petroleum, benzine) or only to a very slight degree, -as with oils of peppermint and mustard. - -IV. _Hager's guaiacum reaction_[3] serves for the detection of oil of -turpentine in a volatile oil. By pouring upon as much guaiacum, freshly -powdered, as will lie upon the point of a small knife, in a test-tube 1 -cubic centimeter (25 drops) of spike oil, and heating nearly to boiling -over a petroleum lamp, the oil after being removed from the flame and -allowing the undissolved resin to settle, shows a _yellow_ color. By -now pouring upon an equal quantity of guaiacum in another test-tube 25 -drops of spike oil and 5 drops of rectified oil of t from the flame -shows a _dark violet color_. Various other oils behave in the same -manner as spike oil, and hence a content of oil of turpentine can be -readily detected in them. Other oils do not exhibit this behavior; but -this can be remedied by adding, in testing for oil of turpentine, a few -drops of an oil of the first class. - - [3] Hager, Chemische Reactionen zur Nachweise des Terpentinoels in den - aetherischen Oelen, etc. Berlin, 1885. - -The guaiacum reaction is an ozone reaction and with reference to this, -the volatile oils may be divided into three classes:-- - -_a. Oils inclining to the formation of ozone._--Foremost of these is -oil of turpentine, especially when rectified. Oils of tansy, rue, mint, -juniper, zedoary, etc., show considerably less inclination. - -_b. Oils which, especially when heated, directly incite the oil of -turpentine to form ozone, and to color guaiacum violet or blue._--Such -oils are many kinds of oil of citronella, oils of spike, calamus, -cedar, etc. - -_c. Oils with a content of oil of turpentine, which remain indifferent -towards guaiacum._--To such oils, if to be tested for oil of -turpentine, with the assistance of the guaiacum reaction, a few drops -of an oil of the second class have to be added. - -V. _Hübl's iodine method._--Mr. C. Barenthin has applied Hübl's iodine -method for fixed oils to the examination of volatile oils. He uses the -following solutions:-- - -1. Fifty grammes iodine and 60 grammes of mercuric chloride in a liter -of alcohol freed from fusel oil, and let stand for 12 hours. - -2. Twenty-four grammes of hyposulphite of sodium in a liter of water. - -3. A ten per cent. solution of iodide of potassium. Dissolve 0.1 to -0.2 gramme of the volatile oil in 10 cubic centimeters of chloroform, -and add first 15 cubic centimeters of the iodine-mercuric chloride -solution; let stand three or four hours, and, in case the mixture gets -discolored, add a few more centimeters of solution. Now add 10 to 15 -cubic centimeters iodide of potassium solution, dilute with 150 cubic -centimeters of water, and titrate with hyposulphite till the mixture -remains clear for about a minute. The iodide of potassium solution -must be added before the water, and the relative proportions between -this solution and the iodine-mercuric chloride solution must be 15 -to 20 cubic centimeters. The quantity of iodine solution consumed is -calculated to iodine for 100 parts and the figure thus obtained is -designated as the "iodine number." - -Barenthin has in this manner determined the iodine number of several -volatile oils; other experimenters, however, for instance, Kremel and -Davies,[4] have found different numbers for the same oils, so that -this method requires further thorough examination before it can be -classed as available. - - [4] Pharm. Centralh. 1888, S. 482 u. 555; 1889, S. 133. - -VI. A. Kremel has endeavored to utilize _titration or saponification -with alcoholic potash lye_ for the examination of volatile oils. In his -experiments he was guided by the following points: A series of volatile -oils contains partially free organic acids, like oils of bitter almonds -and cinnamon, and partially aldehydes or other combinations. Now it -seems not impossible, that up to a certain limit, the quantities of -these combinations in the separate volatile oils remain constant, thus -presenting the opportunity of testing the respective oils as to their -quality and purity by saponification. In some cases these combinations -are the chief bearers of the specific odor, and hence the determination -of the "_saponification number_" becomes of double value. It is, of -course, self-evident that not every volatile oil can be saponified, and -Kremel admits that, even where saponification takes place, it is not in -every case a sure test. - -The execution of the method is as follows: Dissolve 1 gramme of -the oil to be examined in 2 to 3 cubic centimeters of 90 per cent. -alcohol freed from acid, compound the solution with a few drops of -phenol-phthalein solution, and titrate the free acid with ½ normal -alcoholic potash lye. The milligrammes of caustic potash used are -designated the "_acid number_." After having thus determined the -content of acid, add to the same solution 10 cubic centimeters of -the same potash lye, heat for ¼ hour upon the water bath, and then -titrate back the excess of potash lye with ½ normal hydrochloric -acid. In this manner the "_saponification number_" is obtained. (In -some cases when the final reaction is not plainly perceptible, it -is advisable to correspondingly dilute with water after heating the -alcoholic fluid.) The saponification number, less the acid number, -gives the "_ether_ or _ester number_." - -Kremel has in this manner examined a large number of volatile oils and -partially obtained surprising results. Rose oil gives a saponification -number of 12, and geranium oils one of 40 to 50. While lavender -oils give very high saponification numbers, oil of lemons does not. -Artificial oil of bitter almonds shows higher saponification numbers -than the natural oil. By further compounding the saponified portions of -the latter with acid, a crystalline precipitate of benzoin is formed, -the quantity of which amounts to from 40 to 50 per cent. of the oil -used. Such a precipitate, but only in very small quantities, is also -formed in peach kernel oil, but not in other similar oils nor in -artificial oil of bitter almonds. - -VII. F. R. Williams has recently endeavored to utilize for testing -volatile oils Maumené's test, which is based upon the increase in -temperature produced in oils by concentrated sulphuric acid, and -which gives valuable points for the examination of some fat oils. Of -course, the large quantities of oil otherwise prescribed cannot be -used. While for the examination of fat oils 50 grammes of oil are mixed -with 10 cubic centimeters of concentrated sulphuric acid in a beaker -glass wrapped around with cotton, Williams could use only six cubic -centimeters of volatile oil. They were brought into a very small beaker -glass enveloped in cotton. After reading off the temperature, twelve -cubic centimeters of concentrated sulphuric acid were added and the -whole stirred with the thermometer until the temperature no longer -rose. Numbers were in this manner obtained which might in some cases, -for instance, cassia oil, furnish guiding points for judging the purity -of the oil. - -Planchon proposes the following procedure in order to recognize a -volatile oil:-- - - -A. _The oil is specifically lighter than water._ - -1. The substance is solid and only melts at 347° F.: _Camphor_. - -2. The oil at a temperature of over 32° F. contains a crystalline -stearoptene. - - _a._ The oil is laevorotatory, the stearoptene melts at 77° F., and, - on adding sulphuric acid, a clear solution remains behind: _Rose oil_. - - _b._ The oil possesses no rotatory power, the stearoptene melts at 50° - F., and, on adding sulphuric acid, two layers are formed, only one of - which is liquid: _Anise-seed oil_. - - _c._ The oil is dextrorotatory, the stearoptene melts at 41° F., and, - on adding sulphuric acid, a nearly colorless fluid remains behind: - _Fennel oil_. - -3. The oil is perfectly fluid and clear at above 32° F. - -I. The oil explodes with iodine, emitting violet vapors. - - _a._ The oil thickens in the air and readily forms resin. It requires - for its solution several volumes of alcohol: _Oil of conifers_. - - _b._ The oil, on exposure to the air, does not thicken and but slowly - forms resin. - - α. It is dextrorotatory. - - The liquid oil dissolves santalin: _Oil of the aurantiaceæ_. - - The thick oil does not dissolve santalin: _Mace oil_. - - β. The oil is laevorotatory. - - The oil shows an acid reaction and dissolves in equal parts of - alcohol: _Lavender oil_. - - The oil shows a neutral reaction and dissolves in 12 to 15 parts of - alcohol: _Marjoram oil_. - -II. The oil gives no explosion with iodine, but shows an increase in -temperature with or without emission of red vapors. - - _a._ The oil shows an acid reaction. - - α. The blue or green oil shows the acid reaction only - indistinctly: _Milfoil oil_. - - β. The colorless or brown oil gives a turbid fluid with sulphuric - acid. It is laevorotatory: _Spanish marjoram oil_. - - The oil is rendered but slightly turbid by sulphuric acid; it acquires - a red-violet color by nitric acid, has no effect upon the plane of - polarization, and has a peculiar odor: _Oil of valerian_. - -_b._ The oil is neutral. - - α. It dissolves with difficulty in alcohol. - - β. The oil is miscible in every proportion with alcohol. - - 1. It is dextrorotatory. - - The oil is colorless or yellowish, it thickens on exposure to the air, - and dissolves and reduces fuchsine: _Caraway oil_. - - The oil is thick, yellow-brown or red-yellow, and has a peculiar odor: - _Calamus oil_. - - 2. The oil is laevorotatory. - - It is fluid and has an aromatic odor: _Rosemary oil_. - - The oil is thick and very pungent: _Cubebs oil_. - -III. The oil dissolves iodine without vigorous reaction and without an -increase in the temperature. - - _a._ The oil is blue and green. - - It has an agreeable, camphor-like odor: _Camomile oil_. - - The green oil thickens in the air and is dextrorotatory: _Wormwood - oil_. - - The oil is generally green and produces no effect upon the plane of - polarization: _Cajeput oil_. - -_b._ The oil is colorless or yellow-brown. - - α. It separates a solid stearoptene at about 32° F.: _Rue oil_. - - β. The oil remains liquid at several degrees below 32° F. - - 1. Dextrorotatory oils. - - The oil shows an acid reaction, and gives with sulphuric acid a - somewhat turbid solution, which becomes clear by the addition of - alcohol: _Dill oil_. - - The oil gives with sulphuric acid a yellow-red turbid solution, which - becomes clear and peach-blossom red by the addition of alcohol: - _Eucalyptus oil_. - - 2. Laevorotatory oil. - - The oil showing an acid reaction becomes thick in the air and has a - characteristic odor: _Mint oil_. - - The oil shows a neutral reaction and has a camphor-like odor: - _Thyme oil_. - -IV. The oil does not dissolve iodine, does not heat with sulphuric -acid, and does not react upon nitric acid. The odor is empyreumatic: -_Petroleum_. - - -B. _The oil is specifically heavier than water._ - -1. The oil shows an acid reaction. - - It is soluble in 30 parts of water, boils at 356° F., and smells of - bitter almonds: _Oil of bitter almonds_. - - The oil has an agreeable, sweet odor and boils at from 392° to 431.6° - F.: _Wintergreen oil_. - -2. The oil shows a neutral reaction. - - _a._ The oil is laevorotatory. - - It becomes blue by the addition of sulphuric acid: _Oil of cloves_. - -_b._ The oil is optically inactive. - - The thick oil gives with sulphuric acid a turbid, black-brown fluid; - the odor is agreeable: _Cinnamon oil_. - -_c._ The oil is dextrorotatory. - - The thick oil has an agreeable odor: _Sassafras oil_. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -THE VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. - - -The volatile oils, as previously mentioned, may be divided into three -groups, viz: the pure hydrocarbons, oxygenated oils, and sulphuretted -oils. Chemically, this division is, however, of little value, since, -among bodies which should be classed according to it in one of the -groups, combinations are found which vary very much in a chemical -respect, and belong partially in the groups of alcohols, indifferent -bodies, acids, etc. - -It is, therefore, preferred not to attempt a classification of the -volatile oils according to their chemical composition, but simply to -enumerate them in alphabetical order. - -_Acacia, oil of_, commonly called _oil of cassie_. The flowers or -buds of the _acacia Farnesiana_ yield a somewhat thickly-fluid, -greenish-yellow oil of a very intense but delightful odor. The oil -may be obtained either by extraction or absorption. The acacia is -cultivated in special plantations along the _Riviera di Genova_. These -plantations being controlled by a few perfumers, the oil is not allowed -to reach the market, and does not form an article of commerce. The -green-colored _extrait d'acacia_ is a solution of the oil in alcohol. - -_Almond oil_ (_bitter_) (_oleum amygdalæ amaræ_) is obtained by -submitting bitter almond cake (left after the expression of the fixed -oil from bitter almonds) to distillation with water. The volatile -oil does not exist ready formed in the bitter almond, nor in the -almond cake, but results from the decomposition of a glucoside called -"amygdalin," contained in the cake, under the influence of emulsin and -water, the emulsin acting as a ferment, into benzylic aldehyde, glucose -and prussic acid. The almond tree grows wild, but is also cultivated -in Southern Europe, Africa, Barbary, Palestine and Syria. The bitter -almonds brought from Barbary are considered the best. Besides, in -almonds, amygdalin occurs in various other plants; for instance, in -the leaves of the cherry laurel, the leaves and kernels of the peach, -the kernels of the black cherry and other varieties of _prunus_ -and _amygdalus_, they all yielding, after maceration with water, a -distillate containing prussic acid and oil of bitter almonds. - -Instead of the comparatively expensive bitter almonds, peach kernels -freed from their hard shells are extensively used in the fabrication -of oil of bitter almonds. The oil is prepared as follows: The press -cakes of bitter almonds or peach kernels are ground and soaked about -twenty-four hours in twice their weight of water to which one-third -their weight of salt has been added. The whole is then submitted to -distillation. The temperature of the water should not exceed 113° to -122° F. The emulsin contained in the almonds possesses only within -certain limits of temperature the power of decomposing amygdalin, -and, if heated to 176° F., becomes inoperative. Hence, if the almond -paste is quickly heated to boiling, the emulsin becomes inoperative -before all the amygdalin is decomposed, and a portion of it being -consequently lost, the yield is insufficient. The distillation of the -almond paste is effected in a current of steam. - -A portion of the prussic acid formed by the decomposition of the -amygdalin adheres tenaciously to the oil. This content of prussic acid -makes the oil of bitter almonds exceedingly poisonous, while in itself -it is non-poisonous. It can be freed from the prussic acid by shaking -with ferrous sulphate (blue vitriol) solution. By then distilling -over burnt lime the originally yellow or yellowish oil is obtained -colorless. It is then thinly fluid, of a peculiar agreeable odor and -strongly nutty taste. Its specific gravity is 1.043 at 59° F., but -varies a little with age. It boils at 356° F., and dissolves in 13 -parts of water, but more readily in alcohol and ether. In the air it is -rapidly converted into benzoic acid by the absorption of oxygen. It has -to be carefully protected from air and light and kept in well-closed -bottles in a dark place. The crude oil, containing from 2 to 5 per -cent. prussic acid, has generally a yellowish color. - -Oil of bitter almonds may be prepared artificially in many ways. By -allowing chlorine to flow into boiling toluene, the latter is converted -into benzyl chloride:- - - C_{6}H_{5}(CH_{3}) + Cl_{2} = C_{6}H_{5}(CH_{2}Cl) + HCl - - └----toluene-----┘ └-benzyl chloride--┘ - chlorine hydrogen - chloride - -By withdrawing the chlorine and one atom hydrogen from the benzyl -chloride and introducing for it one atom oxygen, the benzyl chloride -is converted into benzaldehyde. This conversion is readily effected -by continuously boiling, best with the introduction of carbonic acid, -1 part of benzyl chloride with 1½ parts of lead nitrate and 10 parts -of water, and finally distilling the benzaldehyde off by steam. The -decomposition takes place according to the following equation:-- - - 2[C_{6}H_{5}(CH_{2}Cl)] + Pb(NO_{3})2 = - 2[C_{6}H_{5}(CHO)] + PbCl_{2} + N_{2}O_{3} + H_{2}O. - -The crude benzaldehyde thus obtained is agitated with warm solution -of acid sodium sulphite, the solution formed thereby is separated -from undissolved oily particles and cooled, whereby a combination -of benzaldehyde with acid sodium sulphate crystallizes out. This -combination is separated from the remaining fluid, decomposed by acid -and submitted to distillation, whereby benzaldehyde passes over. Large -quantities of benzaldehyde are at present prepared according to this -method. The identity of benzaldehyde with oil of bitter almonds has -been established by Lippmann and Hawliczek. - -Genuine oil of almonds is much adulterated, chiefly with alcohol, -nitrobenzole, and various cheaper oils. An addition of 3 to 5 per cent. -of alcohol is frequently made by Italian dealers in order to conceal a -content of water, which at a low temperature is apt to render the oil -turbid. To detect the presence of alcohol, moderately heat a sample -of the oil in a distilling apparatus and compound the drops, first -passing over with sodium carbonate solution and then with potassium -iodide solution. In the presence of alcohol a yellowish crystalline -precipitate of iodoform is formed. - -An addition of synthetically composed oil might seem of no importance, -since the natural oil does not differ from it. However, for very -fine perfumery the natural oil cannot be replaced by the artificial, -it having been thus far impossible to obtain the latter absolutely -chemically pure. It always contains small quantities of undecomposed -chlorine combinations which injure the taste and odor. To detect such -oil in the natural oil, bring a few drops upon a tuft of cotton and -ignite it. Over the burning flame invert a beaker moistened inside with -water. On the moist sides of the beaker the soot and hydrochloric acid -formed by the combustion of the chlorine combination are precipitated. -When the flame is extinguished, the beaker is rinsed out with water, -the fluid filtered and tested for chlorine with nitrate of silver. -An addition of 10 per cent. artificial oil can in this manner be -accurately determined. - -If genuine oil of bitter almonds containing prussic acid, be heated -with an excess of alcoholic potash lye, and the excess of the latter -be neutralized with hydrochloric acid, benzoin amounting to 40 to 50 -per cent. of the weight of oil of bitter almonds is, according to A. -Kremel, separated. By subjecting artificial oil of bitter almonds to -the same treatment, no benzoin is separated, so that the genuine oil -can in this manner be distinguished from the artificial. Kremel further -found that oil of bitter almonds prepared from apricot kernels, when -treated in an analogous manner, yielded considerably less benzoin, -and that cherry-laurel oil containing prussic acid, which has been -considered identical with oil of bitter almonds, separated no benzoin -whatever. Should further experiments prove the constancy of this -phenomenon, this reaction would be a convenient means of distinguishing -the four products. - -An adulteration with nitrobenzole and other volatile oils is recognized -by mixing 2 drops of the oil with 100 drops of distilled water, -and shaking vigorously. Pure oil must completely dissolve. However, -the test yields accurate results only with the use of actually pure -distilled water and by accurately observing the above-mentioned -proportions. If to 5 cubic centimeters of 90 per cent. alcohol and -an equal quantity of distilled water in a test-tube, 10 drops of the -oil be added, and, after closing the tube with the finger, mixture be -effected by gently turning the tube twice upside down, a clear solution -will immediately result if the oil is pure. If, however, it contains -nitrobenzole, even only 1 per cent., the latter separates, at first -rendering the fluid turbid, but in the course of a minute, when gently -agitated, it floats in the form of minute drops upon the fluid, while, -when at rest, these drops collect to larger ones on the bottom of the -test-tube. If the oil becomes only turbid, adulteration with other -volatile oils is indicated. Another test, given by Wagner, is based -upon the difference in the specific gravity of mixtures of oil of -bitter almonds with oil of mirbane. The specific gravity of commercial -oil of bitter almonds varies between 1.040 and 1.043 and that of oil -of mirbane between 1.180 and 1.201. - - 5 c. c. of pure oil of bitter almonds weigh 5.29 grammes. - 5 " mixed with ¼ oil of mirbane " 5.39 " - 5 " " " ½ " " " 5.57 " - 5 " " " ¾ " " " 5.75 " - 5 " of pure " " " 5.90 " - - -Oil of bitter almonds is much used in the fabrication of perfumery. In -a pure state its odor is by no means agreeable, but rather strong and -stupefying. When strongly diluted it is, however, very pleasant. - -_Angelica oil_ is obtained by distillation with water from the root -of _Angelica Archangelica L._, natural order _Umbelliferae_. The oil -is lighter than water, possesses the spicy odor of the root and an -aromatic pungent taste. It consists mostly of a terpene which turns the -plane of polarization to the right, and boils at 320° F. - -Besides the oil from the root, one obtained from the seeds also occurs -in commerce. It is, however, more expensive. In a fresh state it is -amber-yellow, and has a specific gravity of 0.8549 at 59° F.; older -oil is thickly-fluid, brown, and has a specific gravity of O.9086. It -contains a terpene which turns the plane of polarization to the right, -and has a lemon-like odor. It is used for fine perfumery. - -_Anise-seed oil_ (_oleum anisi_). The anise (_Pimpinella anisum L._), -natural order _Umbelliferae_, contains volatile oil in all parts, but -chiefly in the seeds. Dry anise-seed yields by distillation 2½ to 3 per -cent. of oil, while the peduncle and chaff contain at the utmost 1 per -cent. of oil, which is said to be richer in stearoptene. The anise-seed -oil prepared in Southern Russia has always been highly valued, but as -it is generally considerably adulterated, the Leipsic manufacturers of -volatile oils prefer to import the seed and distill it themselves. - -Freshly prepared anise-seed oil is colorless or straw-yellow, has the -odor of anise and a sweetish taste, leaving a burning sensation upon -the tongue. It is thinly fluid at 68° F., but commences to congeal -at a somewhat lower temperature, and the sooner the more stearoptene -it contains. Good oil should become solid at from 57.2° to 60.8° F. -It has a specific gravity of 0.980 to 0.995 at 59° F. The specific -gravity varies with the content of stearoptene; the greater the latter -the higher the specific gravity. Good anise-seed oil contains 5 to 10 -per cent. of terpene and 90 to 95 per cent. of a stearoptene, called -anethol, C_{10}H_{12}O, on which the value of the oil depends. The -anethol can be separated from the oil by cooling to 32° F., and forms -colorless crystals. It has an agreeable odor and intensely sweet taste, -is sparingly soluble in water, but readily in alcohol, ether, and other -solvents of volatile oils. Good anethol has a specific gravity of -0.986, and melts at 69° to 70° F. By frequent contact with the air a -small portion of the anethol is oxidized, very likely to anisaldehyde. -By this process the specific gravity is raised and the melting point -lowered. - -Anise-seed oil is soluble in 5 parts of 90 per cent. alcohol, and with -3½ times its volume of petroleum-ether yields a clear mixture. Its -mixture with four times its weight of petroleum-ether is turbid, but -becomes clear in ten minutes, while that with five times its volume of -petroleum-ether remains for a longer time turbid. In a fluid state the -oil, when exposed to the air, becomes resinous and loses its property -to crystallize. It should, therefore, be kept in tightly-closed bottles -in a cool, shady place. - -Anise-seed oil is used in perfuming soaps and mouth waters. It should, -however, be used with prudence, since the sweetish, penetrating odor of -the oil readily overcomes the other volatile oils in the mixture, and -renders them inoperative. - -_Star anise oil_ very much resembles the ordinary anise-seed oil. It -is obtained from star anise, the fruit of _Illicium anisatum_, a tree -formerly supposed to be indigenous to Cochin China, and cultivated in -China, Japan, and the Phillipine Islands. However, according to Messrs. -Bourgeoin-Meiffre, a French firm of Hanoï (Tonkin), the star anise oil -found in commerce is exclusively produced in the French colony Tonkin -(Province Langson), the French government having made over the entire -sale of the oil to the above-mentioned firm. - -According to a memoir published by Dr. Blondel, of Paris, the star -anise tree is not indigenous to the Chinese provinces Yunnan, Quang-si, -and Fo-Rien, but to the province Langson, which has by conquest passed -into French possession. Hence, the producers of star anise and star -anise oil are now under French control and, as it seems, are obliged -to sell all the oil produced to the above-mentioned firm. If these -statements should prove correct, the Chinese harbors Macao and Hong -Kong, from which the greater portion of star anise oil was formerly -exported, will lose their importance in this respect and the product -find its way direct from Hanoï _via_ Hayphong to Marseilles. The first -shipment from Bourgeoin-Meiffre arrived in Europe in December, 1890. -According to Messrs. Schimmel & Co.'s report, the product is put up and -packed exactly like that formerly shipped from Hong Kong, and the oil -of excellent quality. - -Star anise oil differs from the ordinary oil in containing a much -smaller quantity of anethol, and hence congealing only at a temperature -of from 41° to 50° F. Besides the odor of the terpene contained in star -anise oil differs from that of the ordinary oil. Admixtures of star -anise oil can, therefore, be generally recognized by the odor. Other -methods recommended for its detection are unreliable. - -_Balm oil._--The leaves of this plant, _Melissa officinalis_, yield -by distillation a volatile oil sometimes called oil of melissa. It is -colorless or yellowish, of a pleasant odor, has a specific gravity of -0.85 to 0.92, shows a slightly acid reaction and dissolves in 2 to 3 -parts of alcohol. It must not be confounded with the so-called East -India oil of melissa or citronella oil from _Andropogon Nardus L._ Balm -oil is occasionally used in the preparation of _eau de Cologne_. - -_Basil oil_ is distilled in Southern France from the fresh leaves -of _Ocymum basilicum L._, natural order _Labiatæ_. The oil shows -the peculiar odor of the herb and crystallizes a few degrees above -32° F. In perfumery it is used as an addition to violet and other -preparations. The French also prepare a _pommade basilique_, which -serves as a cheap substitute for violet pomade. - -_Bayberry oil_, or _oil of bay leaves_, is extracted by distillation -from the leaves of _Myrcia acris_ or the bayberry tree. Many varieties -of the tree exist throughout the West Indies, which are scarcely to -be distinguished botanically, but have quite a different odor from -that of the genuine tree. Great care must, therefore, be taken in the -collection of the leaves which are to be used, as the admixture of a -small quantity of the other leaves may entirely spoil the product of -distillation. Two oils are obtained, a light oil of specific gravity of -0.870 to 0.990, and a heavy oil with specific gravity 1.023 to 1.037. -When first distilled the oil is colorless, but by exposure to the air -quickly acquires a yellowish tint and, if the exposure be continued, -becomes quite dark in color. The odor of the freshly-distilled oil is -rank, but in the course of from three to six months it becomes mellow, -and ripens into the agreeable fragrance so much liked in the best -specimens of bay-rum. The oil is soluble in all proportions in 95 per -cent. alcohol, also in ether and petroleum benzine. Its chief use is -for the preparation of bay-rum. - -_Bergamot oil_ is obtained from the rinds of the fruit of _citrus -bergamia_, a tree belonging to the natural order _Aurantiaceæ_. The -rind is grated and the oil running off separated from the aqueous -fluid and cellular substance by means of a separating funnel, or -the grated mass is distilled in a current of carbonic acid. The oil -is very fluid and pale yellow, but poorer qualities are frequently -greenish or brownish. When distilled with water it becomes perfectly -colorless, but is less durable. Its odor is very pleasant, somewhat -like a mixture of orange and lemon oils. Its specific gravity is 0.87 -to 0.89. By standing for some time, the oil separates white crystalline -scales (stearoptene), which melt at 223° F. The oil becomes solid a -few degrees below the freezing point. The Messina oil of bergamot is -considered the best. From other volatile oils of the orange family, -bergamot oil differs in dissolving readily in caustic potash, forming -a clear solution. It has, however, the same property as other oils of -a similar origin, of igniting with iodine and not dissolving santalin, -the red resinous coloring matter of santal-wood. - -Bergamot oil may be tested as to its purity by mixing it with alcohol. -It becomes pale gray-yellow, forms a sediment which adheres firmly to -the vessel and, on shaking, floats about in the form of flakes. After -two days the sediment is inconsiderable and difficult to divide into -flakes in the clear yellow fluid by shaking. The oil is frequently -adulterated with alcohol. To detect such adulteration, Righini -recommends the following method: Mix 15 parts of the oil with a like -quantity of pure olive oil or oil of sweet almonds. If alcohol is -present, it immediately separates, like water, from the fat oil; if no -separation takes place the oil is not adulterated with alcohol. The -tannin test also gives reliable results. In storing oil of bergamot -great care must be exercised to exclude air and light, as it is one of -the most changeable oils and soon acquires an odor resembling that of -turpentine. - -Large quantities of oil of bergamot are used in perfumery. It forms, so -to say, the basis for most of the finer products. In Cologne water it -forms the principal constituent in the mixture of volatile oils. - -_Cajeput oil_ (_oleum cajeputi_).--This oil is obtained by distillation -from the leaves of several species of _Melaleucæ_, natural order -_Caryophyllaceæ_, indigenous to the East Indies, Banda, and Malabar. -The ordinary oil has a greenish color and possesses a strong odor -of camphor and a pungent taste. It is chiefly imported by way of -Amsterdam, where it is partially discolored by rectification, so -that two kinds, the white and green cajeput oil, are brought into -commerce. The color of the latter is generally supposed to be due to a -resinous substance containing chlorophyl, though others assert that it -originates from the copper of the distilling apparatus and the copper -flasks in which it is dispatched. The specific gravity of the oil -varies between 0.910 and 0.940, though specifically lighter and heavier -oils are said to occur. - -It is claimed that an artificial cajeput oil is often prepared -from camphor and rosemary oil, the green color being obtained by -distillation with milfoil. The presence of camphor may be readily -determined by thoroughly triturating a few drops of the oil with sugar -and then dissolving in water, whereby the particles of camphor separate -in the form of white flakes upon the surface. - -Cajeput oil is frequently adulterated with oil of turpentine and -rosemary oil. Such adulteration is recognized by pure cajeput oil -dissolving clear in equal parts of 90 per cent. alcohol, which is not -the case with the other two oils. - -_Camomile or chamomile oil_ (_oleum anthemidis_).--Two varieties of -oil of camomile are found in commerce, one green and the other blue. -The first is derived from the flowers of the genuine or Roman camomile -(_Anthemis nobilis_) and the blue from the common variety (_Matricaria -chamomila_). The last oil is the one chiefly used in the manufacture of -perfumery and in medicine. - -_Blue camomile oil_ is generally obtained by distillation. In -distilling, metal Florentine flasks should be used, as the oil adheres -tenaciously to glass vessels and the distillate has to be treated with -ether. The pure oil has a beautiful blue color, and on heating forms -blue vapors. It has a penetrating odor which only by strong dilution -becomes similar to that of camomile. By storing in the light and the -simultaneous presence of air, the oil turns green; later on, brown, and -is finally converted into a thickly-fluid, brownish mass. - -_Green camomile oil_ from the genuine or Roman camomile possesses an -agreeable odor of fresh lemons; it is more seldom used than the other. - -On account of the slight yield obtained from the flowers, camomile oil -is rather expensive. - -_Caraway oil_ (_oleum carui_) is obtained by distillation from the -seeds of the well-known aromatic plant _Carum carui_, or the caraway, -natural order _Umbelliferae_. In a fresh, purified state the oil is -colorless, very thinly-fluid and possesses a pungent taste. The oil -prepared from cleansed Dutch seed is best liked, while that distilled -from Norwegian or Tyrolese seed is not much in demand, its taste and -odor not being so pure on account of the many impurities mixed with -these kinds of seed. - -Caraway oil consists mainly of a terpene, C_{10}H_{16}, called -_carvene_, specific gravity 0.870, and of _carvol_, specific gravity -0.960. The richer the oil in carvol, the higher its specific gravity. -Good caraway oil should have a specific gravity of 0.900 to 0.910. -The carvol being the actual bearer of the aroma, the value of the oil -exclusively depends on the content of it. In the better varieties -of oil, the content of carvol amounts to from 45 to 50 per cent., -while poorer qualities generally contain only from 40 to 42 per cent. -The carvol and carvene are now frequently separated by fractional -distillation. The carvol, which has three times as strong an odor and -taste as the carvene, dissolves with much greater facility in alcohol. -The carvene being offered at very low prices might be suitable for -perfuming cheap soaps. - -Caraway oil obtained by distillation from the plant has a less -agreeable odor than that from the seed, and possesses an acrid resinous -taste. - -The purity of caraway oil is recognized by its dissolving clear in -equal parts of 90 per cent. alcohol. If such is not the case, the oil -contains either an admixture of oil of turpentine or does not possess -the full normal content of carvol. Pure caraway oil does not detonate -with iodine, which is the case with oil containing oil of turpentine. - -Caraway oil is chiefly used for perfuming soap; for handkerchief -perfumes it is not suitable. - -_Cedar oil_ (_oleum cedri_) is obtained by distillation from the -shavings of the wood of the American or Virginia cedar (_Juniperus -virginiana_). For the distillation of oil the waste falling off in the -manufacture of lead-pencils is almost exclusively used. It yields about -2 to 3 per cent. of oil. The oil is thinly-fluid, of specific gravity -0.9622, of a greenish color, and an agreeable but not very penetrating -odor. It is a mixture of a terpene, boiling at about 540° F., and of -a hydrocarbon. The latter, which is called _cidrin_, forms the fluid -portion of the oil. It has a specific gravity of 0.984, and boils at -about 459° F. - -Cedar oil is extensively used in the manufacture of toilet soap, -it serving as the basis for other perfumes. Care must, however, be -taken that its odor does not preponderate, as in such case it readily -produces an unpleasant effect. The oil being cheap, adulteration is -scarcely to be feared. - -A volatile oil is also obtained by distillation from the leaves of the -_Juniperus virginiana_. In odor it resembles savin oil, and is unfit -for perfuming purposes. - -_Cherry-laurel oil_ (_oleum laurocerasi_) is the volatile oil, which -contains prussic acid, obtained from the leaves of the cherry-laurel -(_Prunus laurocerasus, L._). Like bitter almonds, the leaves contain -some amygdalin. Hence they are macerated with water and allowed to -stand in a warm place for 24 hours. By subsequent distillation a -volatile oil is obtained which closely resembles oil of bitter almonds, -but differs in some respects. It is colorless or yellowish, rarely -reddish, and of specific gravity 1.05 to 1.06. In its behavior towards -air, solvents, and reagents, it does not essentially differ from oil of -bitter almonds.[5] - - [5] Compare Kremel's observations, p. 91. - -To detect oil of mirbane in cherry-laurel oil, Enrico Pega adds some -alcohol to the oil to be tested and then mixes it with some alcoholic -potash lye and a few drops of ferric chloride solution. After standing -for a few hours the mixture is shaken and distilled. A small portion -of the oil distilling over is freed from water, poured upon a few -small pieces of pure caustic potash in a test-tube, and heated over -a lamp. If the sample is pure it remains colorless; in the presence -of oil of mirbane it acquires a dark coloration in consequence of the -formation of nitrobenzide and aniline, a few drops of calcium chloride -solution brought into the mixture producing, for this reason, a violet -coloration. - -Cherry laurel oil is but seldom used for perfuming purposes. - -_Cinnamon oils._--There are four different kinds of this oil, viz., -_Ceylon cinnamon oil_, _cassia oil_, _cinnamon root oil_, and _oil of -cinnamon leaves_. Though the first two are very much alike, the Ceylon -oil is considered the best. - -_Ceylon cinnamon oil_ (_oleum cinnamoni ceylonici_).--Formerly this oil -was exclusively distilled from chips and waste of the genuine cinnamon -bark of the _Cinnamonum ceylonicum, Nees_, and came into commerce from -Ceylon. However, the fabrication of the oil from cinnamon waste or -chips is now extensively carried on in Germany, and this oil, being -prepared with the assistance of more perfect apparatus, has almost -entirely supplanted that exported from Ceylon. - -When fresh, the Ceylon oil is colorless, but when stored for some -time it becomes first golden yellow and later on brownish. It is -thickly-fluid and heavier than water, its specific gravity being 1.060 -to 1.090. It has an agreeable, aromatic odor and a biting but pure, -sweet taste. Its principal constituent is cinnamaldehyde (C_{9}H_{8}O), -and it contains, besides, 4 to 8 per cent. of eugenol. The presence of -the latter in cinnamon oil may be established by shaking with 15 per -cent. soda-solution, whereby the eugenol is dissolved, and decomposing -the aqueous solution with hydrochloric acid. The eugenol separated -thereby gives in alcoholic solution, when compounded with a trace of -ferric chloride, a beautiful blue color. - -_Cassia oil_ (_oleum cassiæ_).--In China and Cochin China this oil is -obtained by distillation from the bark, unripe fruits, buds, and other -waste of the _Cinnamonum cassia_ or _Cinnamonum aromaticum, Nees_, a -tree indigenous to those countries. It has a pale yellow color, which -in time becomes brown. It is thickly-fluid, of specific gravity 1.05 -to 1.07, and possesses a sweet taste with an acrid after-taste. Like -cinnamon oil, it consists chiefly of cinnamaldehyde, but contains no -eugenol, and hence can be readily distinguished from Ceylon oil by the -above-mentioned reaction. One part of pure cassia oil dissolves in two -parts of 80 per cent. alcohol. - -_Cinnamon root oil and oil of cinnamon leaves._--Neither of these -oils contains cinnamaldehyde, but abundant quantities of eugenol, the -root oil as much as 50 to 70 per cent. The root oil is quite limpid -and has an agreeable odor of cinnamon and cloves. The leaf oil is -thickly-fluid, of the consistency of castor oil. - -The Ceylon oil is frequently adulterated with cassia oil. Such -adulteration is very difficult to detect, and can only be recognized by -experts by the odor and taste. - -The quality of cassia oil is recognized by the taste and odor, -especially on heating, and the high specific gravity, in consequence -of which the oil sinks in water. According to Hager, cassia oil is -frequently adulterated with oil of cloves. This is, however, scarcely -probable, the price of oil of cloves being, on an average, higher than -that of cassia oil. The latter, however, is frequently adulterated with -cheaper thickly-fluid volatile oils, especially with cedar oil. In this -case the oil does not dissolve in the above-mentioned proportion in -alcohol. - -The value of cassia oil is dependent on its contents of cinnamaldehyde. -Hence, the establishment of its actual value requires a quantitative -determination of its contents of cinnamaldehyde, which unfortunately -presents great difficulties. For this purpose Schimmel & Co. proceed -indirectly as follows: 75 grammes of cassia oil in a capacious boiling -flask are mixed with 300 grammes of a boiling-hot 30 per cent. solution -of acid sodium sulphite, whereby cinnamaldehyde-sodium sulphite -is immediately separated. The whole is then vigorously agitated -and allowed to rest for a short time. (With oils rich in aldehyde -considerable heating generally takes place, which must eventually be -moderated by the addition of cold water.) Next add about 200 grammes of -hot water and heat the whole, with frequent shaking, in the water-bath -until the combination of the aldehyde with the acid-sodium sulphite -is _completely_ dissolved, and the non-aldehydes in the form of an -oily layer float upon the solution of the aldehyde salt. Now allow -the whole to cool, then shake twice with ether; first, with about 200 -cubic centimeters, and then with 100; combine the ethereal extracts -of the non-aldehydes separated by means of a separatory funnel, and -filter them into a capacious, previously-weighed beaker provided with a -platinum wire, the lower end of which is bent in the form of a spiral. -Now evaporate the ether as much as possible, by placing the beaker in -hot water. When by swinging the beaker the remaining fluid no longer -foams up, allow to cool off and weigh. Now return the beaker-glass to -the water-bath for ten minutes, weigh again after cooling, and repeat -the operation until the difference between two weighings does not -amount to more than 0.3 gramme at the utmost. The weighing _previous to -the last_ is taken as the correct one.[6] - - [6] The manner of expelling the ether is of great influence upon - the accuracy of the result. Though the non-aldehydes volatilize - with difficulty, they are volatile, and hence the ether must be - quickly expelled, and the beaker not allowed to stand longer upon the - water-bath than necessary for the evaporation of the ether. - -The weight of the non-aldehydes thus obtained is deducted from the -cassia oil used, the difference giving the content of cinnamaldehyde in -the latter. - -For example:-- - - Used 79.71 grammes of oil. - - First weighing of the beaker after evaporating the ether 147.55 grammes - Second " " " " " " 146.84 " - Third " " " " " " 146.58 " - Tare of the beaker 128.34 " - - Hence non-aldehydes in the oil 146.84 grammes. - Less tare 128.34 " - ------ - = 18.50 grammes. - - Calculated to per cent., 23.1 per cent. - 100 - 23.1 = 76.9 per cent. cinnamaldehyde. - -By accurately following the directions given, the difference between -two controlling determinations will be only a few tenths per cent., -seldom as much as 1 per cent. For practical purposes, for which alone -this method is intended, this is more than sufficient. - -According to the reports of Schimmel & Co., all the cassia oil brought -into commerce from China was for a considerable time adulterated with -resin and petroleum, they having found as much as 30 per cent. of resin -in the oil. Such adulteration can be established by the determination -of the specific gravity and distilling the oil. Good cassia oil should -show a specific gravity of 1.05 to 1.07 at 59° F., and by distillation -90 per cent. of pure cassia oil must pass over. The residue should not -solidify after cooling and acquire the character of a brittle resin; it -must remain at least thickly-fluid, and under no conditions amount to -more than 10 per cent. - -_Citron oil_ (_oleum citri_), from the peel of the fruit of _Citrus -medica_ or the citron tree. The oil is prepared in a similar manner -to that of oil of bergamot, either by expression or distillation, the -latter process yielding more and purer oil. - -Rectified citron oil is colorless, of an agreeable penetrating odor -and acrid taste, and very sensitive to light and air. By exposure to -light it turns yellow, and if air be admitted at the same time, it is -first converted into a fluid which, on account of its content of ozone, -possesses strong bleaching powers. The oil at the same time acquires a -disagreeable odor, resembling that of oil of turpentine, and is finally -converted into a resinous mass. - -Citron oil is frequently adulterated with oil of orange and sometimes -with oil of bergamot. These adulterations are readily detected by an -experienced person by the odor, this being in fact the best guide. The -specific gravity of citron oil is 0.850 at 59° F.; it boils at from -332.6° to 343.4° F. and congeals at 4° F. - -_Citronella oil_ (_oleum citronellæ_) is chiefly distilled in Ceylon -from the lemon grass, _Andropogon Nardus, L._ It is quite limpid, of -a greenish-yellow to brown color, and has an odor resembling that -of genuine citron oil. Its specific gravity is 0.896 at 59° F., and -it boils at from 392° to 410° F. Of the various oils reaching the -market that with the trade-mark "Fisher" is most in demand, it being -distinguished by special purity. Edward Kremers has found in citronella -oil an aldehyde, C_{7}H_{14}O, a terpene, C_{10}H_{16}, citronellol, -which is isomeric with borneol; further, acetic acid and valerianic -acid. - -The Indian distillers, it is claimed, adulterate the citronella oil -with petroleum, an addition up to 25 per cent. being not uncommon. - -According to experiments by Schimmel & Co., pure citronella oil must -give a clear solution, when 1 part of the oil is vigorously shaken with -10 parts of 80 per cent. alcohol. If, in executing the test, the kind -of turbidity is observed, and whether the portion insoluble in alcohol -separates, after standing, upon the surface or on the bottom of the -fluid, and further, if the above-mentioned quantity of alcohol is not -added at one time, but at first only 1 or 2 parts of it, a conclusion -may be drawn as to the kind and quantity of the adulterant. - -Petroleum causes a milky-white turbidity, while in the presence of fat -oil the mixture becomes turbid, but not actually milky. As a rule, -fat oil deposits, after standing, on the bottom, while petroleum -floats upon the surface of the fluid. Citronella oil adulterated -with fat oil does not dissolve in 1 to 2 parts nor in 10 parts of -80 per cent. alcohol, while oil adulterated with not too large a -quantity of petroleum, gives a clear solution with 1 to 2 parts. The -determination of the specific gravity may also serve for the detection -of adulterations. This holds good, however, only for petroleum, which -reduces the specific gravity, an addition of fat oil producing no -deviation in this respect. The specific gravity of the oil should not -be below 0.895 at 59° F. - -Citronella oil is much used for perfuming cheap hair oils and toilet -soaps; it is the chief constituent of all perfumes for honey-soaps. -In the American soap industry it is extensively used, the yearly -consumption being estimated at 1½ million ounces. - -_Cloves, oil of_ (_oleum caryophylli_), is obtained by distillation -with steam, or by extraction from the cloves of commerce, which are -the dried unexpanded flower buds of _Caryophyllus aromaticus, L._, -or the clove tree. Oil of cloves, when fresh, is almost colorless, -but on exposure to air acquires a brownish coloration and a thickly -fluid consistency. It has the aromatic taste and odor of cloves, and -a specific gravity of 1.300 to 1.065. It frequently shows a slightly -acid reaction, boils at 482° F., and congeals at 4° F. It is readily -soluble in alcohol, ether, and strong acetic acid. It consists of a -terpene (C_{10}H_{16}) and eugenol (C_{10}H_{12}O_{2}), the odor of -the oil being due to the latter. The terpene has a specific gravity of -0.918, and in distilling passes over first (light oil of cloves). The -eugenol, when fresh, is colorless, has the odor and taste of cloves, a -specific gravity of 1.063 at 65° F., boils at 487.4° F., is insoluble -in water and glycerin, but soluble in alcohol, ether and glacial acetic -acid. Its alcoholic solution is colored magnificently blue by ferric -chloride. If in an alkaline solution it is oxidized with potassium -permanganate, vanillin being formed. - -An inferior quality of oil is obtained from the stems of the clove -buds. It dissolves with greater difficulty than the oil prepared from -the buds, and has a darker red-brown color. - -To test the value of oil of cloves, introduce, according to Stohman, -into a graduated glass cylinder 10 volumes ether, 10 oil of cloves, -and 30 of a 10-per cent. soda solution. After vigorous shaking, the -eugenol dissolves; the increase in volume of the aqueous fluid is -then proportional to the quantity of eugenol present. For more exact -determinations, dissolve a weighed quantity of oil, repeatedly shake -the aqueous fluid with ether to remove the terpene, then decompose -the eugenol-sodium with dilute sulphuric acid, dissolve the separated -eugenol in ether and weigh after evaporating the ethereal fluid. Good -oil of cloves does not contain less than 80 per cent. of eugenol, and -frequently 90 per cent. or more. - -Oil of cloves is chiefly adulterated with copaiba oil and cedar oil. -Such adulteration is recognized by the oil not forming a clear solution -in every proportion with alcohol, as is the case with pure oil of -cloves. - -Oil of cloves is much used for perfuming purposes. - -_Eucalyptus oil_ (_oleum eucalypti_) is obtained from the leaves -of various trees of the eucalyptus family. According to Merk two -kinds of oil must be strictly kept apart: _oleum eucalypti_ from the -leaves of _eucalyptus globulus_ and _oleum eucalypti australe_, the -former being used in medicine, and the latter, which is considerably -cheaper, chiefly for perfuming purposes. However, Piesse's opinion that -eucalyptus oil, as far as its odor is concerned, does not deserve to be -classed among perfumes is undoubtedly correct. It has an odor between -that of oil of turpentine and cajeput oil, and as long as perfumery is -the art of sweet odors, such oil cannot be designated a perfume. - -When not rectified, eucalyptus oil is mostly yellowish or bluish. In a -rectified state it is colorless, clear, limpid, lighter than water, of -a strong odor, and acrid taste. The oil from _eucalyptus globulus_ has -a specific gravity of 0.900 to 0.925, and dissolves in every proportion -in 90 per cent. alcohol. It is optically inactive or turns the plane of -polarization slightly to the right. On standing with sodium it acquires -a yellowish coloration, and does not detonate with iodine. The oil from -_eucalyptus australe_ has a specific gravity of 0.86 to 0.87, and is -but sparingly soluble in 90 per cent. alcohol, so that even a solution -prepared in the proportion of 1:15 is turbid. It turns the plane of -polarization strongly to the left; acquires, on standing with sodium, a -red coloration, and detonates with iodine. - -Eucalyptus oil consists of eucalyptol and eucalyptene, and perhaps -other hydrocarbons. The content of the first, on which depends the -medicinal value of the oil, varies very much in the oils from the -different species of eucalyptus, the oil from some species, it is said, -containing no eucalyptol whatever. - -Eucalyptol (C_{24}H_{20}O_{2}) is limpid, colorless, turns the plane -of polarization, has a specific gravity of 0.905, and boils at 347° F. -Its vapor mixed with air has an agreeable, refreshing taste, and its -dilute solutions remind one of roses. Eucalyptene (C_{24}H_{18}) has a -specific gravity of 0.836, and boils at 329° F. - -_Fennel oil_ (_oleum fœniculi_) is derived by distillation from the -fruits of _Fœniculum vulgare, Gaertner_. Large quantities of it are -produced in Saxony, and also in Galicea. It is quite colorless, -limpid, of specific gravity 0.940 to 0.970 and, with a full content of -stearoptene, possesses a nauseous sweet taste and odor. It contains -60 to 70 per cent. of anethol and congeals at from 41° to 50° F. to a -crystalline mass. The leaves of the plant also contain a volatile oil, -which is, however, less valued than the seed-oil. - -Good fennel oil should dissolve clear in 1 to 2 parts of 90 per cent. -alcohol. Direct adulterations of this oil do not occur, but the -stearoptene is frequently withdrawn by fractional distillation whereby -the oil loses much in value. Such oil freed from stearoptene does not -congeal, has a more bitter than sweet taste and does not dissolve in -the above-mentioned proportion in alcohol. - -In perfumery fennel oil is but little used; sometimes in connection -with other volatile oils for perfuming soaps. - -_Geranium oil_, _palmarosa oil_, _Turkish geranium oil_ is obtained -from _Andropogon Pachnodes_. It is yellowish, limpid, of specific -gravity 0.890 at 59° F., possesses a very agreeable rose-like odor -resembling that of geranium oils from _Pelargonium radula, Aiton_, and -for this reason is generally designated as Turkish geranium oil. The -odor of the oil is improved by shaking it with water containing lemon -juice, any content of copper being thereby removed. The washed oil is -then brought into shallow dishes and exposed for two or three weeks to -the sun, whereby its odor becomes still more like that of rose oil. -The oil thus prepared is much used for adulterating rose oil. Turkish -geranium oil is also much used for the adulteration of genuine geranium -oil and is itself adulterated with oil of turpentine. It is extensively -employed in perfumery, especially for perfuming hair oils and pomades, -and in conjunction with geranium oils for rose soap. - -_East Indian geranium oil_ is obtained, chiefly in the Presidency of -Bombay, from _Andropogon Schoenantus, L._ It is greenish-yellow to -yellow-brown, has a specific gravity of 0.906 at 59° F., and consists -mainly of geraniol (C_{10}H_{18}O). Its odor is rose-like, though -modified by a lemon-like odor. It is principally used for perfuming -cheaper articles. - -_French and African geranium oils_ (_oleum geranii_) are obtained -by distillation with water from the leaves of various species of -pelargonium. Many different kinds of this oil are found in commerce. -The finest and most expensive are the Spanish and French geranium -oils, so-called _rosé_, which are distinguished by their fine odor, -closely resembling that of rose oil. They are derived from _Pelargonium -radula_, and are either yellowish, brownish, or pale green, the -brownish oils being preferred. It congeals at 60.8° F. and turns the -plane of polarization to the right. Another good geranium oil is -the African, which is chiefly prepared in Algiers from _Pelargonium -roseum_, _Wildenow_, and _P. odoratissimum, Aiton_. It closely -resembles the French oil, but turns the plane of polarization to the -left. - -French geranium oil is said to be frequently adulterated with fat or -copaiba oil; but geranium oil being soluble in 70 per cent. alcohol, -such adulterations are readily detected. Add to 5 cubic centimeters of -70 per cent. alcohol (specific gravity 0.890) at 59° to 62.5° F., 10 -drops of the oil, and shake. If a clear solution results the oil is -very likely unadulterated. - -The so-called Turkish geranium oil is frequently found mixed with -cocoanut oil. To detect this, place the oil in a test-tube in ice or a -cold mixture for several hours, whereby the cocoanut oil separates as -a white substance. Adulterations of upward to 20 per cent. are said to -frequently occur. - -Reliable tests to detect an adulteration of the better qualities of -geranium oil with those of a lower grade do not exist, the odor being -the only guide. - -_Jasmine oil_ or _oil of jessamine_, from the flowers of _Jasminium -officinale, L._, and _J. grandiflorum_.--The oil is exclusively -obtained by the absorption process, and is the most prized by the -perfumer. It is, however, exceedingly rare on account of the enormous -cost of its production. The extract of jasmine, the "essence de -jasmine" of the French manufactories, is a solution of the oil, as -obtained by extraction with lard or beef suet, in strong spirit of -wine. The odor of jasmine oil is so peculiar that it is without -comparison, and as such cannot be imitated. - -_Juniper oil_ (_oleum juniperi_) is obtained by distillation from the -fruits of _Juniperus communis, L._, or juniper. The berries used for -the purpose should be fully grown and fresh and bruised before being -placed in the still. Unripe berries yield a smaller quantity and an oil -of somewhat different properties than ripe berries. The oil obtained by -distillation with steam is colorless and that by ordinary distillation -yellowish, the former having a specific gravity of 0.840 to 0.860 -and the latter of 0.850 to 0.900. It consists mainly of terpenes. By -standing, a stearoptene is separated, which crystallizes in feathery -needles from hot spirit of wine. The odor and taste of juniper oil -remind one at the same time of juniper berries and oil of turpentine. - -Juniper oil has a great tendency to thicken; it becomes resinous, -acid and thickly fluid, formic acid being formed. It should be kept -in well-closed bottles, and protected from light. It is frequently -adulterated with oil of turpentine and juniper-wood oil. It may be -tested by its behavior towards alcohol, as well as by the taste. A drop -of the oil rubbed up with sugar, and shaken with 500 grammes of water, -should not impart an acrid taste to the water. Juniper oil gives a -clear solution with ½ part absolute alcohol; by a larger quantity it -is rendered turbid. - -_Lavender oil_ (_oleum lavandulæ_.)--Large quantities of this oil are -distilled in Southern France, in the neighborhood of Grasse and Nimes, -from the flowers of _lavandula officinalis, Chaix_, which grows wild -in that region. It is limpid, colorless, or yellowish, has a strong -odor and a pungent, aromatic, somewhat bitter taste. With 90 per cent. -alcohol it mixes clear in every proportion, boils at 320° F., and has a -specific gravity of 0.876 to 0.905. It turns the plane of polarization -to the left. - -The best French lavender oil, distilled from pure flowers only, is -brought into commerce under the name, "Essence de Lavande Montblanc." -It is distinguished from all other kinds, in the preparation of which -more or less stems and leaves are used, by its extremely agreeable odor. - -Lavender is also extensively cultivated in Mitchan and Hitchin, -England, and used for the preparation of an especially fine oil, the -odor of which surpasses even that of the best French product. It is, -however, comparatively expensive. - -From the leaves and flowers of _lavandula spica_ the _spike oil_ is -obtained by distillation. It is colorless, or yellow, and in odor -approaches rosemary oil more than lavender oil. Its boiling point, like -that of lavender oil, is at 366.8° F., and its specific gravity 0.96. -Spike oil turns the plane of polarization only slightly to the left, -the deviation scarcely ever exceeding 0.8°. - -Lavender oils are very sensitive to light and air, they becoming -ozonized under their influence, and acquire an odor like turpentine. -Hence they must be kept in well-closed vessels in a dark place. - -Oil of lavender is frequently adulterated, chiefly with alcohol, fat -oils, oil of turpentine, and spike oil. To test the oil, mix a drop -of it with 10 cubic centimeters of warm water, and test the odor, -which should be pure and agreeably lavender-like. The taste of the -vigorously agitated water should be transiently bitter aromatic. One -volume of the oil should give a turbid mixture with one volume of -dilute alcohol (specific gravity 0.895), but a perfectly clear one -with three volumes. On shaking 0.5 cubic centimeter of the oil with a -few grains of rosaniline it remains uncolored, but, in the presence -of even a trace of alcohol, it acquires a red coloration. By mixing -in a graduated cylinder equal volumes of the oil and distilled water, -and shaking vigorously, the oil, after the water has settled, shows -a decrease in volume if alcohol be present. The presence of fat oil -can be readily recognized by bringing a drop of the oil to be tested -upon filtering paper; a grease stain is formed, which disappears -neither at the ordinary temperature nor by heating. Adulteration with -oil of turpentine is recognized by the boiling point, that of oil of -turpentine being 312.8° F., and that of oil of lavender, as previously -stated, 366.8° F. - -Spike oil should mix clear with equal parts of 90 per cent. alcohol; -the contrary would indicate adulteration with oil of turpentine. - -For perfumery, lavender oil is of great importance, it being much -employed by itself, as well as mixed with other oils. - -_Lemon oil_ (_oleum limonis_) is obtained by various processes from the -rinds of lemons. The best and most delicately-scented oil is obtained -by the so-called sponge process in use in Southern Italy and Sicily. -The rinds are soaked from fifteen to twenty-five minutes in water, to -which sometimes a little soda is added. They are taken up singly in the -right hand and the outer surface of each is firmly pressed against a -large and rather hard-grained sponge held in the left hand and secured -by a strap. Two or three sharp turns of the wrist impart what may be -called a screw-pressure to the rind, thus effectually fracturing the -oil cells, the sponge absorbing the contents. The sponge is constantly -held over an earthen jar and occasionally squeezed into it. The fluid -in the jar quickly separates into three different products--the dregs -or deposit of mucilaginous and cellular matter, some fruit juice, and -the pure oil, which floats on the top. The latter, when bright and -clear, is passed, by means of a small glass siphon, into the cans of -thin copper, in which, after sealing, it is stored away for export. - -The above described primitive mode of fabrication furnishes the most -highly prized oils of commerce; they are called hand-pressed oils -or _essences preparées a l'éponge_. In the same manner are obtained -the oils from the sweet and bitter pomegranate, the bergamotte, and -mandarin orange. - -Another method of expressing the oil is that of the _écuelle à piquer_, -much used in the region about Nice. The oils obtained by this method, -which are also of a very fine quality, are marked _essence à l'écuelle_ -or _au zeste_. The apparatus consists of a round shallow pan of copper -or brass, having a receptacle for the oil at its lowest part and a lip -on one side for pouring, and studded on its concavity by strong blunt -spikes. The workman takes the fruit and rolls it gently but quickly -around the inside of the _écuelle_; the spikes prick the oil sacs, -whereupon the oil, running down the spikes and the concavity of the -pan, collects in the reservoir at the lowest part. The oil is filtered -and then poured into clean glass bottles, in which the impurities are -allowed to settle. - -In Reggio, where especially much bergamot oil is manufactured, -sheet-metal bowl-like vessels, studded inside with sharp ribs, are -used. Six to eight fruits are placed in the vessel. A movable lid -closes the vessel, so that there is just enough space for the fruits -between the lid and the bottom of the vessel. If now the lid be -revolved by hand-or steam-power, the rinds of the fruit are torn apart, -and the oil together with the juice runs through the sieve-bottom of -the apparatus into a cylindrical vessel where it clarifies. - -The third method of obtaining the oil is by _expression_. The grated -rind is placed in hair mats, and subjected to powerful pressure by -means of a screw or lever press. - -The process of _distillation_ is carried on as follows: The peels, -which should be from select fruit, are sprinkled with powdered salt, -and a few hours afterwards sufficient water to moisten them is poured -over them. A day or two afterwards more water is added, and the whole -is distilled until either no more oil separates or the steam, at first -purely fragrant, begins to acquire a rank and rather unpleasant smell. -The oil obtained by distillation is inferior to the others. - - [Illustration: FIG. 20.] - -Lately a combination of the écuelle and distilling processes has been -introduced by Domenico Monfalcone, which has given excellent results. -It is shown in Fig. 20. _F F_ is a hollow cylinder, of sheet-iron, -the interior surface of which is studded with a large number of -small metallic knife-points. This cylinder revolves on two axles -attached to it at diagonally opposite points. The cylinder having been -half-charged with lemons, together with a small quantity of water, is -set in motion by aid of the shafting and pulleys driven by the small -steam engine. The fruits are thereby made to come in contact with the -metallic lancets, and their whole surface gradually becomes punctured -sufficiently to rupture the cells containing the volatile oil, which -escapes. The cylinder _F F_ has double walls, the space between them -being intended for the circulation of a current of steam, which is -admitted to heat the water and to facilitate the extraction of the -oil, while at the same time the vapors are rarefied or aspirated by -the vacuum pump _L_. The axles of the cylinder on both sides are -hollow; that on the side looking towards the engine is imbedded in -such a manner that steam from the boiler _D_ may be admitted at will, -either into the double walls of the cylinder, or into the interior -of the cylinder itself, while the hollow passage in the other axle -communicates with a condensing worm, _G_, the outlet of which, _H_, -descends into a cylindrical vessel, _I_, intended to receive the -condensed products, consisting of water and volatile oil. When the -apparatus is first set in motion the pump _L_ begins to produce a -vacuum during the first revolutions of the cylinder. Steam being now -cautiously admitted into the double walls of the cylinder, the water is -raised to boiling at a comparatively low temperature, and the vapors -charged with the volatile oil pass over into the receptacle, where -they separate into two layers. The product obtained by this process is -claimed to be equal in quality to that obtained by mechanical means, -and the yield nearly double. - -During the months of November to March the average yield from 1000 -lemons in the factories of Palermo is 320 grammes of oil; in those of -Messina, where a better quality of fruit is employed, the yield is -about 400 grammes. The same number of lemons yield about 10 gallons of -juice, the collection of which is, of course, a necessary accompaniment -of the manufacture of volatile oil. - -Pure oil of lemons is almost colorless and has the odor of the fruit. -Its specific gravity varies between 0.8752 and 0.8785; it boils at -298.4° F., and is soluble in all proportions in absolute alcohol and -glacial acetic acid. It contains, according to G. Bouchardat and -J. Lafont, besides a little cymene, several hydrocarbons, the most -abundant of which is citrene, C_{10}H_{16}, boiling near 352.5° F., -having a rotatory power exceeding +105°, and yielding a solid optically -inactive dihydrochloride. - -Oil of lemons is frequently adulterated with oil of turpentine. This -may be detected, according to G. Heppe, by slowly heating the oil in -a dry test-tube with a small piece of copper butyrate to about 338° -F., taking care that the temperature does not exceed 356°F. The copper -salt will dissolve in pure oil of lemons with a green color, while in -the presence of oil of turpentine a yellow turbid mixture is obtained, -reddish-yellow cuprous oxide being separated. This test is also -applicable to oils of bergamot and of orange-peel. - -_Lilac oil_ is obtained from the flowers of _Syringa vulgaris_, the -lilac, by aqueous distillation and subsequent extraction with benzine. -It is also frequently prepared by the absorption process. It is used -for the most expensive perfumes, and is seldom found in commerce. - -_Limes, oil of_ (_oleum limettæ_), is derived from the rind of the -fruit of _Citrus limetta_, or lime. The oil is obtained in the same -manner as oil of lemons, which it somewhat resembles. Its mean specific -gravity is 0.8734 at 84° F. The oil made by the écuelle process is of a -decidedly yellow color, varying in intensity, being darker in the fresh -product. The difference in flavor and aroma is so marked as scarcely to -require any other means of distinguishing the oil made by the écuelle -process from that obtained by distillation, the first having a decided -fragrant lemon smell, whilst the distilled oil is very inferior, -frequently possessing little more than the smell of turpentine. Large -quantities of oil of limes are manufactured in Dominica, but most of -the oil exported from there is of an inferior quality and was formerly -solely used for adulterating oil of lemons. Lately it has also been -employed for scenting soaps and in the manufacture of the common -essences and perfumes. - -_Licari oil, linaloë oil_, is obtained, partially in Mexico and -partially in Cayenne, from the wood of the white cedar (_bois de rose -femelle_), _Licari canali_. It is limpid, has an agreeable odor, -reminding one of roses, and does not become solid at 4° F. Its specific -gravity is 0.868 at 59° F., and it boils at 388.4° F. - -_Marjoram oils._--By distilling the leaves of _Origanum marjorana, L._, -the _marjoram oil_ (_oleum marjoranæ_) is obtained. It is yellowish -or green-yellowish, but becomes reddish-brown by age. If badly kept -it finally becomes thickly-fluid and sticky, sometimes depositing a -reddish stearoptene. The odor of marjoram oil is less agreeable than -that of the plant, and the taste peculiar, bitter, cooling. The oil -dissolves readily in 90 per cent. alcohol, and when mixed with equal -parts of it yields a clear solution. Its specific gravity is 0.89 to -0.91. It should be kept in entirely filled, well-closed bottles in a -shady place. On coming in contact with air, it absorbs oxygen with -avidity and forms a white, odorless, crystalline mass. - -From _Origanum vulgare, L._, the ordinary marjoram oil (_oleum origani -vulgaris_) is obtained. It is yellowish or reddish, limpid, of specific -gravity 0.90 to 0.95, and has a camphor-like odor. - -_Spanish marjoram_ (_oleum origani cretici_) is obtained by -distillation from the flowering plants of several varieties of marjoram -(_Or. creticum_, _Or. hirtum_, _Or. smyrnæum_). It is brought into -commerce from Trieste, Smyrna, Salonica, and other Mediterranean -seaports. The oil exported from France appears to be derived from -another variety of marjoram; at least it shows a different behavior -and approaches more the ordinary marjoram oil. The genuine oil is -thickly-fluid, generally yellow-brown; of specific gravity O.95 to -O.97; has a strong, aromatic odor, and produces upon the tongue a sharp -continued burning. It dissolves in equal parts of 90 per cent. alcohol. -It is chiefly adulterated with copaiba oil, the presence of which can -be recognized by the oil dissolving with greater difficulty. - -The marjoram oils are but little used for perfuming purposes. - -_Mignonette oil_ (_oleum résédæ_). The well-known mignonette, _Réséda -odoratissima_, yields a thick yellowish oil, either by maceration and -absorption, or by extraction with ether or petroleum-ether. It has a -penetrating, disagreeable odor, which can only be rendered agreeable by -greatly diluting the oil. In gathering the flowers care must be had not -to mix them with leaves, as this spoils the odor of the oil. - -_Myrrh oil_ (_oleum myrthæ_) is obtained from the leaves of _Myrtus -communis, L._ It is yellowish, dextrorotatory, of specific gravity -0.910 at 60.8° F., and commences to boil at 320° F. As its principal -constituents, Jahns has established a terpene (C_{10}H_{16}), boiling -at from 316.4° to 320° F., and turning the plane of polarization -to the right, and cineol (C_{10}H_{16}O), which boils at 348.8° F. -Besides these principal constituents there seems to be present a very -small quantity of a camphor, corresponding very likely to the formula -C_{10}H_{16}O. Myrtol, which was formerly supposed to exist in myrtle -oil, has been found to be a mixture of the dextrorotatory terpene and -of cineol. - -_Nutmeg oils._--From mace, the fresh aril of the nutmeg (_Myristica -fragrans, Houtt_, natural order _Myristicaceæ_), _mace oil_ (_oleum -macidis_), is obtained by distillation. It is straw-yellow or -yellowish, later on yellow-reddish, clear, somewhat thickly-fluid, -of a strong odor resembling that of mace, and a taste at first mild, -but later on pungent and aromatic. It mixes clear in every proportion -with absolute alcohol, but of 90 per cent. alcohol, 5 to 6 volumes are -required for a clear solution. The specific gravity of the oil varies -from 0.87 to 0.92. With iodine it detonates, vapors being emitted. The -oil obtained from dried mace has a less agreeable odor. - -The oil is frequently adulterated with tincture of nutmeg prepared -with absolute alcohol. Such an adulteration, as well as any content of -alcohol, is recognized by shaking 0.5 cubic centimeter of the oil with -a grain of rosaniline. In the presence of alcohol the oil acquires a -red coloration, while pure oil remains uncolored. - -From the nutmegs, the seed of _Myristica fragrans_, freed from the -seed-coat and aril, a volatile oil (_oleum nucistæ æthereum_) is also -obtained by distillation. It is generally yellowish, seldom colorless, -somewhat thickly-fluid and has the odor and taste of nutmegs. It is -readily soluble in alcohol and ether and of specific gravity, 0.93 to -0.95. It consists of two oils, one specifically lighter and fluid, and -the other heavy and crystalline. On standing it deposits a stearoptene, -called myristicin. - -The nutmeg oils are but seldom used in perfumery. - -_Opopanax oil_ is obtained from opopanax.[7] It is of gold-yellow color -and an agreeable balsamic odor reminding one somewhat of myrrh. Its -specific gravity is 0.9016, and it boils between 392° and 572° F. - - [7] See later on under "Balsams and Resins." - -On account of its strength, the oil must be very carefully handled -in perfuming, but if used in the correct proportion it is very -advantageous. - -_Orange-peel oil_, also called _Portugal oil_ or _essence of Portugal_, -is obtained in Italy from the fresh peels of the orange, the fruit of -_Citrus vulgaris, Risso_. It is prepared in a manner similar to that of -oil of lemons (which see). In commerce a distinction is made between -the Messina oil, which is of inferior quality, and the Calabria oil, -which is of a better quality. The Messina oil has a yellow color, -frequently not much darker than that of oil of lemons, while the color -of Calabria oil is dark yellow, nearly brown. The oil prepared from the -peels of the bitter orange (_Citrus bigaradia, Duhamel_), is of the -same color as the sweet Messina oil. It is more used in the preparation -of liqueurs than for perfuming. Orange-peel oils are limpid and have a -specific gravity of 0.819 to 0.9. One part of orange-peel oil should, -according to its age, dissolve clear in 5 to 10 parts of 90 per cent. -alcohol. - -Very similar to orange-peel oil, though differing somewhat in odor, -is the _mandarin oil_ obtained from the fresh peels of the mandarin -orange, the fruit of _Citrus sinensis_. It is brought into commerce -from Reggio and is said to form a constituent of the genuine -_ess-bouquet_. It has a specific gravity of 0.852 at 50° F. and is -dextrorotatory. - -While from the peels the volatile oil is but seldom obtained by -distillation, this process is exclusively used for gaining volatile -oils from the flowers, leaves, and young branches. In this connection -two kinds of volatile oil have chiefly to be considered, viz: -_orange-flower oil_ and _petit-grain oil_. - -_Orange-flower oil_ or _neroli oil_ (_oleum florum aurantii_; _ol. -neroli_; _ol. naphæ_) is obtained by distillation from the flowers of -the bitter orange; while the flowers of the sweet orange yield the -so-called _neroli-Portugal oil_, which is far inferior to the other. - -On the French Riviera, the orange is especially cultivated for -obtaining blossoms and leaves for distilling purposes. At Cannes, -Le Cannet, Golfe-Juan, Vallauris, Biot, Vence, Le Bar, Antibes, Le -Cap, Nice, and Mentone, the bitter orange, whose flowers are very -numerous and especially suitable for perfumery, is chiefly cultivated. -Cannes and Le Cannet alone possess 150,000 to 160,000 such trees, and -Golfe-Juan and Vallauris 200,000. The flowers harvested in Golfe-Juan -amount to about 700,000 lbs., in Le Cannet to about 330,000 lbs., at -Cannes to about 130,000 lbs., and in Antibes, Mentone, and Nice to -about 260,000 lbs. One orange tree yields, according to its age, from -2 to 17 lbs. of flowers. The distillation of neroli oil has also been -lately commenced in Sicily and Calabria, but as far as quality is -concerned, the oil thus far brought into commerce cannot compete with -the French oil. - -Oil of orange flowers is at first nearly colorless or straw-yellow, -but becomes reddish-yellow when kept for some time. In a clear glass -it opalizes bluish. It is limpid and has a slightly bitter taste and -a strong but very delicious odor. Its specific gravity varies between -0.85 and 0.90. It is but sparingly soluble in water, but imparts to -the latter an agreeable odor; the solution is colored red by sulphuric -acid. With 1 to 2 parts of 90 per cent. alcohol, the oil gives a clear -solution which becomes turbid by a further addition of alcohol and, -after standing quietly, a flaky separation of stearoptene is observed. -If not carefully kept the oil becomes darker and even acquires a -disagreeable odor. By rectification with water oil thus spoiled can -be restored. With sodium the oil does not evolve hydrogen gas; it -detonates with iodine. - -Of the various oils of orange blossoms occurring in commerce "_Neroli -petale_" is the best. - -Neroli oil being a very expensive oil is exposed to many adulterations. -Mierzinski even asserts that no genuine unadulterated neroli oil occurs -in commerce, because it is a well-known fact that what is sold as -genuine, pure neroli oil, consists on an average of 4/8 genuine neroli -oil, 1/8 oil of bergamot, and 3/8 petit-grain oil. Furthermore, it -is no secret that besides the flowers of all kinds of _Aurantiaceæ_, -unripe fruits or fresh peels of ripe fruits and even young shoots of -the branches and leaves are subjected to distillation. This assertion -perhaps goes too far, but nevertheless it is advisable to procure the -oil only from a thoroughly reliable firm. - -A very frequent adulteration consists in an addition of petit-grain -oil. Such an addition can only be recognized by the taste and odor. -For this purpose add to 3 drops of oil in a small bottle 10 grammes -of distilled water, and, after shaking vigorously, test as to the -odor and taste. According to Chevalier, pour 1 or 2 drops of the oil -upon sugar and stir the latter in water; if the oil is not genuine the -water acquires a bitter taste. Hager recommends the following test: -Mix 3 drops of the oil in a test-tube with 40 to 50 drops of alcohol; -add, after complete solution, about ⅓ the volume of the solution of -concentrated sulphuric acid, and effect mixture by careful shaking. -Pure oil gives a turbid, reddish, dark-brown mixture (with old oil, -dark brown); almost all other oils, which may be substituted, give -paler-colored (reddish, red, or ocher-color) mixtures; or, in case the -genuine oil is adulterated with non-genuine, the mixture exhibits a -considerably less dark-color. When this test has been several times -executed with genuine oil, no room for doubt is left. If the mixture be -diluted with four times its volume of water, it becomes yellowish and -milky. - -The odor of orange flowers is, according to Soubeiran, due to two -volatile oils, of which the one having the most delicious odor is -soluble in water. The other volatile oil, of which the neroli oil -of commerce chiefly consists, is sparingly soluble in water, and -does not possess such a delicious odor. This is the reason why good -orange-flower water cannot be prepared by saturating water with neroli -oil. The genuine orange-flower water is obtained as a by-product in -distilling the oil. - -Neroli oil is much used for the finer perfumes, it being especially -a necessary constituent of _eau de Cologne_. It has to be carefully -protected from air and light. For perfuming purposes it is only -sufficiently ripe after having been stored for at least one year. If, -however, it becomes too old, it inclines towards rancidity, which may -be prevented by compounding it with an equal volume of fine spirit. -Portugal oil being of inferior quality can only be used for lower grade -products. - -_Petit grain oil_ (_oleum petit grain_) is obtained by distillation -from the leaves, young shoots and unripe fruits of different -_Aurantiaceæ_. The best oil is that distilled from the leaves of the -bitter orange, it possessing an odor similar to that of neroli oil, -but, of course, not so fine. Southern France was formerly the chief -place for the production of this oil, but considerable quantities of -it are now manufactured in Paraguay, and the oil at present brought -from there into commerce being of quite a good quality and considerably -cheaper than the French oil, has almost entirely supplanted the latter. - -_Orris root, oil of_ (_oleum iridis_), is obtained by distillation with -steam from the rhizomes of _Iris florentina_, which is cultivated in -Southern France, Dalmatia, and other regions. It has a yellow color -and, at an ordinary temperature, a quite solid consistency like butter -or wax, so that it can be rendered fluid only by heating. It consists -chiefly of a rigid odorless body to which the liquid odoriferous oil -adheres. The solid portion was formerly designated orris-stearoptene; -according to Flueckiger it is, however, myristic acid. - -Oil of orris root is one of the oils which keep for years without -suffering injury. It is recommended to keep it in stock in alcoholic -solution so that the myristic acid contained in it may to a certain -degree be etherized, and cannot injuriously affect the odoriferous -principle. - -Oil of orris root serves as a substitute and for strengthening the -natural odor of violets. It can, however, be employed only for very -fine expensive perfumery since, on account of the very slight yield -from the root (from 1000 parts ½ to ¾ part of oil), its price is -very high, generally exceeding that of rose oil. - -An admixture of other volatile oils of less value would render the oil -fluid at the ordinary temperature. - -_Patchouli oil._--By the name of patchouli are known, according to -L. Wray, Jr., the leaves of _Pogostemon patchouli, Pellet_, natural -order _Labiatæ_, indigenous to the East Indies, and known and used -for centuries in the various regions of China, Assam, and the -Malayan Islands. Most of the patchouli comes from the East Indies. -Before exportation it is sorted into three qualities: 1. _Selected_, -consisting of leaves only. 2. _Mixed_, leaves with slight peduncles -and few stems. 3. _Stalky leaves._ The best quality occurs seldom in -commerce since the picking of the leaves does not cover the expense. - -According to Wray, the leaves are intentionally mixed with those of -the _ruku_ (_ocimum basilicum, L._), an herb indigenous to the Malayan -Islands. The leaves of the latter are broader than those of _pogostemon -patchouli_, and the stalks thinner and round. Seed-capsules are also -frequently found among the leaves, though patchouli seldom flowers and -bears seeds. - -In Europe, patchouli has been an article of commerce since 1841. In -the Orient it is highly esteemed as a perfume. The Arabs even ascribe -remedial properties to it, and it is customary with them to fill their -pillows with the leaves to protect them from infection and prolong -their lives. - -The peculiar, penetrating, though not exactly agreeable, odor of -patchouli leaves, is due to a volatile oil, of which they contain 1.5 -to 2 per cent. In the Orient this oil has for many years been obtained -by distillation. - -In the Penang market two kinds of oil, one _green_ and the other -_gold-brown_, are distinguished. Though both are sold at the same -price, there is a greater demand for the green oil. According to the -statements of the distillers, the brown oil is derived from the leaves -of old plants and the green oil from the leaves of young plants. It -would seem, however, that the color is dependent on the soil upon which -the plants are grown, as well as upon atmospheric influences. When ruku -is distilled with patchouli leaves, the oil is yellow and thickly-fluid. - -In Germany, the oil is now distilled from imported leaves. It is -thickly-fluid, of a brown color, and, in an undiluted state, possesses -a disagreeable, almost musty odor. However, when sufficiently diluted -and suitably mixed with other volatile oils, the odor is far more -agreeable, and for this reason it has for some time played an important -part in the manufacture of perfumery. It has the advantage of being -very yielding and lasting, but, on the other hand, possesses the -disadvantage of not combining with other perfumes, so that its odor is -always perceptible. It should always be used in very small quantities -or much diluted. - -In commerce Penang oil and French oil are distinguished, the first -having a specific gravity of 0.959 and the latter of 1.012. When -kept for any length of time the oil deposits patchouli-camphor -(C_{15}H_{28}O) in prismatic crystals of 1.045 specific gravity and -melting at 127 to 129° F. These crystals have a peculiar, very lasting -odor. - -Patchouli oil is soluble in equal parts of 90 per cent. alcohol, the -contrary indicating that it is not pure. It is chiefly adulterated with -cedar oil. - -_Peppermint oil._--The _Mentha_ family furnishes commerce with three -oils differing essentially from each other--_oil of curled mint_, -_peppermint oil_, _and poley oil_. - -_Oil of curled mint_ (_oleum menthæ crispæ_) is separated by -distillation with water from the leaves of _Mentha crispa, Linn._ It -is limpid, yellowish, sometimes greenish; in time it becomes darker -and more thickly-fluid. Its specific gravity varies between 0.890 and -0.965. It has a strong odor of curled mint and a pungent, somewhat -cooling, slightly bitterish taste. It is soluble in all proportions in -90 per cent. alcohol. In commerce a distinction is made between German -and American oil of curled mint, the latter generally containing oil -of turpentine and oil of sassafras. Odor, taste, and the alcohol test -suffice for the determination of the quality of the oil. - -Oil of curled mint contains a terpene, C_{10}H_{16}, and a body -isomeric with carvol, the carvol of curled mint, C_{10}H_{14}O. Its -specific gravity, boiling point and chemical properties are the same as -those of the carvol of caraway oil, but it differs from it by its odor -and turning the plane of polarization to the opposite direction. In -conjunction with other volatile oils, oil of curley mint is sometimes -used for perfuming soaps. - -_Peppermint oil_ (_oleum menthæ piperitæ_) is obtained from the fresh -flowering peppermint, _Mentha piperita_, natural order _Labiatæ_. In -commerce, German, English, American and Japanese peppermint oils are -distinguished. As regards fineness, the German oil is inferior to -the English and better kinds of American oils, but superior to the -Japanese. The best and most expensive oil is the English so-called -"Mitcham oil of peppermint," which dissolves in 50 parts of 50 per -cent. spirit of wine and possesses a fine, pure taste, it being for -this reason preferred by distillers for the fabrication of liqueurs. -For perfuming purposes, however, the American as well as the German -oils are very suitable. Of American oils that of H. G. Hotchkiss, -L. B. Hotchkiss, Hale & Parshall, and Fritzsche Bros. enjoy a high -reputation. The Japanese oil is distinguished from the rest by a -peculiar train-oil-like odor and taste, and is in but little demand. - -Crude oil of peppermint is yellowish to greenish and contains much -mucus; it has therefore to be subjected to another distillation with -water. The rectified oil is clear as water, limpid, of a strong but -pleasant odor and a specific gravity of 0.900 to 0.902. Old oil -thickens and then shows an acid reaction. The greater portion of the -oil congeals at the freezing point of water; many kinds, however, -requiring but slight cooling in order to become solid. The solid -portion of the oil, _Menthol_, (C_{10}H_{12},H_{2}O) is a colorless, -finely crystallized body with an intense odor of peppermint. It melts -at 107.6° F., is quite fluid at an ordinary temperature and boils at -413.6° F. Menthol is found in all oils of peppermint most abundantly in -the Japanese oil, which contains from 50 to 55 per cent. of it. Mitcham -oil is also very rich in menthol, it containing from 40 to 45 per -cent., while the American oil contains only from 20 to 25 per cent. - -American, German and English oils of peppermint may be distinguished as -follows: By adding to 5 or 6 drops of the oil, 25 to 30 drops of pure -white concentrated sulphuric acid, _American oil of peppermint_ becomes -heated and emits vapors, the mixture acquiring a dark brownish red -coloration. After mixing with 8 to 10 cubic centimeters of 90 per cent. -alcohol, the fluid becomes turbid, pale yellowish brown, or reddish -brown, and on boiling clear pale brown. When mixed with sulphuric acid, -_German oil of peppermint_ becomes heated without emitting vapors, -becomes yellowish red, not very dark, and turbid. After diluting with -alcohol, the fluid becomes turbid and yellowish red, and on boiling -somewhat more transparent and currant-red. _English oil of peppermint_ -treated in the same manner as the others with sulphuric acid becomes -very slightly heated without any emission of vapor. After diluting with -alcohol, it becomes clear and raspberry red. - -As adulterants of peppermint oil are mentioned: fat oils, alcohol, -oil of turpentine, copaiba oil, mustard oil, and ginger oil. The most -frequent adulteration is an admixture of oil of turpentine. It is -recognized by the oil not dissolving clear in equal parts of 90 per -cent. alcohol, as is the case with the pure product. To detect the -presence of copaiba oil, mix 5 drops of the oil to be tested with 15 to -20 drops of fuming nitric acid, shake and allow it to stand for 1 to 2 -hours. After this time the oily portion should be neither entirely nor -partially congealed, but remain fluid. To detect traces of mustard oil, -bring 10 drops of the oil into a wide reagent glass, then add 3 to 4 -cubic centimeters of absolute alcohol, 2 to 3 drops of silver nitrate -solution and 12 to 15 drops of ammonia. The mixture is clear and -colorless, and remains so on heating to boiling. In the presence of -mustard oil turbidity and blackening take place in consequence of the -formation of silver sulphide. After boiling, allow the fluid to stand -quietly for 2 or 3 hours. If it then shows a grayish turbidity, the oil -is adulterated with another volatile oil. - -Instead of pure American oil of peppermint, a product compounded -with camphor oil, and mostly freed from menthol, is said frequently -to occur in commerce. According to E. C. Federer, this is recognized -by dissolving one volume of oil of peppermint in 2 volumes of 94 per -cent. alcohol, adding water and shaking. Pure peppermint oil is then -separated with a certain portion of the alcohol. For example, mix 10 -cubic centimeters of oil of peppermint in a graduated cylinder of 45 -to 50 cubic centimeters' capacity with 20 cubic centimeters of 94 per -cent. alcohol, then add 10 cubic centimeters of water of 50° F. and -shake. After allowing the mixture to stand quietly, two layers are -formed, the upper one of which, if the oil is pure, will amount to 14 -cubic centimeters, but only to 12.5 cubic centimeters if the oil is -freed from menthol and compounded with camphor oil. A larger or smaller -addition of water to the alcoholic mixture is without influence upon -the height of the upper layer separated. - -In perfumery peppermint oil serves chiefly for aromatizing dentifrices, -etc. It should be kept in well-closed bottles in a shady place; an -addition of 0.5 per cent. of alcohol helps to preserve the oil for a -long time. - -_Poley oil_ (_oleum menthæ pulegii_).--In Southern France and Spain -this oil is obtained by distillation from the leaves of _Mentha -pulegium_. It has an odor resembling that of peppermint, is at first -colorless, but soon becomes yellow, has a specific gravity of 0.927, -boils at 361.4° to 370.4° F., and contains neither menthol nor carvol. -It is used for perfuming herb soaps. - -_Pimento oil_, or _oil of allspice_ (_oleum pimenta_) from the bruised -fruit of _Eugenia pimenta_, allspice, natural order _Myrtaceæ_. The oil -is pale yellow, becoming reddish-brown by age; it has a very pungent -taste and intense odor, very much resembling that of cloves. It is -heavier than water, its specific gravity being from 1.021 to 1.037. -It mixes with glacial acetic acid in all proportions. When treated -with nitric acid, pure pimento oil assumes a red color, with strong -effervescence. - -_Rose oil_ or _attar of roses_ (_oleum rosæ_) comes almost exclusively -from Bulgaria, where it is obtained by distillation with water -from the flowers of _Rosa damascena_. The small quantities of an -excellent quality of rose oil prepared in Southern France from _Rosa -provincialis_ remain in the country of their production and do not -even cover the local demand. The small productions of Persia and India -need also not be taken into consideration. In Tunis, where formerly -much rose water was prepared from _Rosa canina_ and also rose oil -of a very fine quality, the distillation of roses has, according to -Christo Christoff, been entirely abandoned, geranium oil only being now -produced. In the summer of 1884, Schimmel & Co., of Leipzic, Germany, -made the experiment to obtain oil on a large scale from indigenous -roses. The result was very satisfactory, 2000 lbs. of rose leaves -yielding about 1 lb. of oil, the extraordinarily agreeable odor of -which was so superior to that of the Turkish oil, that notwithstanding -the high price--double that of Turkish oil--it found ready purchasers. -At the ordinary temperature the Leipzic oil is solid, it only melting -at 89.6° F. - -In Bulgaria, Kazanlik, in the Tundscha Valley, is the centre of the -entire industry and the principal market. Rose oil is there called -"_gul-jag_" (_gul_, the rose, and _jag_, oil). The annual production of -Kazanlik and neighboring places, amounting 50 years ago to from 450 to -650 lbs., has within a few years risen to the enormous figure of 5500 -lbs. - -In Kazanlik two varieties of roses, known as the "white rose" and "red -rose," are cultivated; the former being _Rosa alba, L._, and the latter -_Rosa damascena, Miller_. By distillation the white rose yields an oil -of little perfume, but rich in stearoptene. On account of its slight -odor, the white rose is seldom distilled by itself, but occasionally -white and red roses are mixed in order to obtain an oil rich in -stearoptene, so that a fraudulent admixture of a larger quantity of -geranium oil may be effected without great danger of detection. The -large plantations consist only of bushes of red roses. But on the edges -of the field a strip, a few feet wide, is planted with white roses, -so that only flowers of little commercial value may be plucked by -passers-by. - -The flowers are gathered before sunrise, and, if possible, the same -day subjected to distillation. The latter is effected in a very crude -apparatus, over a direct fire. The flowers are distilled with double -their weight of water, one-half of which is drawn off. The product -of several operations thus obtained is combined and again distilled, -when, however, only one-sixth is drawn off. This distillate is allowed -to stand for one or two days in a place warmer than 59° F., when the -oil floating on the top is skimmed off. It may be supposed that on an -average 6600 lbs. of roses are required to obtain 2.2 lbs. of oil, and -that these 6600 lbs. of roses correspond to an area of 1 hectare (2.471 -acres) planted with rose bushes. - -Pure, carefully-distilled rose oil is at first colorless, but soon -turns yellowish.[8] Its specific gravity is between 0.830 and 0.890. -It consists of a liquid oil and a stearoptene, the content of the -latter varying very much. It is a pure hydrocarbon, odorless, of -specific gravity, 0.840 to 0.860, and distils at 572° F. Hence it is -lighter than the elæoptene on which alone the odor of the rose oil is -dependent. Rose oil generally congeals between 50° and 60° F., though -sometimes at a higher or lower degree, according to its content of -stearoptene. While some oils require the cold of winter for congealing, -others are in the heat of summer either entirely solid, or form a -fluid filled with many crystals. The odor of rose oil is peculiarly -honey-like, and too intense to be agreeable, its entire deliciousness -being only developed by strong dilution, be it by dissolving in water -or alcohol, or by distribution upon large quantities of rigid bodies, -fats, soaps, etc. In alcohol it dissolves with greater difficulty than -all other volatile oils, 1 part of it requiring for solution 140 to 160 -parts of alcohol of 0.815 specific gravity. - - [8] This, however, applies only to Bulgarian oil; French and Saxon - rose oils have a greenish color. - -The larger or smaller content of stearoptene in rose oil seems to be -dependent on climatic conditions, it having been remarked that the -quantity is the greater the lower the temperature of the region. The -oil from the coldest and highest regions of the Balkan is richer in -stearoptene than that from the lower and warmer regions. - -The genuineness of rose oil is generally judged by its odor, its -capacity of congealing, and the manner of its crystallization. The -odor is by all means the most reliable criterion, but requires -much experience, and especially reliable pure standard samples for -comparison. The capacity of congealing at certain conditions of -temperature, is, to be sure, also a requirement of genuine rose oil, -but, as previously mentioned, this property varies very much, and is -subject to different influences, so that a fixed standard at which pure -rose oil must congeal cannot be established. Attention must, however, -be called to the fact that the quality of a rose oil does by no means -rise with its greater capacity to congeal, since only the liquid -oxygenated portion possesses odor. - -Schimmel & Co. bring at present into commerce a liquid rose oil freed -from stearoptene which can be highly recommended for finer alcoholic -perfumes. It remains fluid at 32° F., but in a cold mixture congeals to -a gelatinous mass, and hence is not absolutely free from stearoptene. -It has an extremely fine and powerful odor, and when dissolved in -alcohol does not give the disagreeable crystalline separations of the -ordinary rose oil, which produce a disturbing effect, especially in the -preparation of extracts. - -For the insulation and determination of the stearoptene in rose oil, -Schimmel & Co. proceed as follows: Heat 50 grammes of oil together -with 500 grammes of 75 per cent. alcohol to from 158° to 176° F. In -cooling, the stearoptene separates nearly quantitatively. Separate it -from the fluid, treat it again in the same manner with 200 grammes of -75 per cent. alcohol, and repeat the operation until the stearoptene is -entirely free from odor. Two treatments of the crude stearoptene are -generally sufficient. In this manner Schimmel & Co. obtained from 1887 -German rose oil 32½ per cent. stearoptene, from 1888 German rose oil 34 -per cent., from 1887 Turkish rose oil 12 to 13 per cent., and from 1888 -Turkish rose oil 14 per cent. - -It is evident that such a valuable product as rose oil is much -subjected to adulteration, it being even said that oils containing -scarcely 10 per cent. of genuine rose oil occur in the market. The -chief adulterant used by the Bulgarians is the so-called geranium oil, -but actually ginger-grass oil derived from India, which is brought -by way of Arabia to Constantinople, and prepared for the purpose of -adulterating rose oil by treatment with lemon juice and bleaching in -the sun. The sophistication is generally effected by sprinkling the -ginger-grass oil thus prepared upon the rose leaves before distilling. -The general characters of this oil are so similar to those of rose oil -that detection, when the adulteration is kept within certain limits, -is very difficult, so that during the distilling time large buyers and -exporters of rose oil are forced to pay, besides their other officers -in Kazanlik, confidential native agents who constantly move around in -the distilling regions and report where distillation has been carried -on honestly, and where the ginger-grass oil bottle has been seen. -However, the prepared ginger-grass oil is frequently not even distilled -with the rose leaves, but simply mixed with the finished rose oil. - -Whether a rose oil is free from geranium or ginger-grass oil is tested -in Bulgaria, according to Christo Christoff, by the freezing method, -which is, however, unreliable. It is based upon the fact that an -addition of geranium oil reduces the congealing point of rose oil. Pure -Bulgarian rose oil congeals at from 63.5° to 68° F.; by the addition -of geranium oil, the same oil congeals at 61.25°, 59°, 56.75°, or at -a still lower temperature, according to the quantity added. The buyer -when purchasing oil carries with him two basins, one containing hot -and the other cold water, which he mixes in order to obtain a fixed -temperature, the operation being controlled by a Réaumur thermometer. -In the water thus prepared he completely submerges a 20 gramme flask -containing 15 grammes of the oil to be tested. In three minutes, -needle-like crystals of the separating stearoptene must appear, and -in ten minutes crystallization must be complete. According to the -congealing point thus established, the product is paid for. Oil -congealing below 59° F. being evidently adulterated is rejected and -bargained for at a special price. - -Many attempts have been made to fraudulently make this congelation -appear within the limits of temperature permitted, paraffine which -dissolves well in rose oil being formerly frequently added. In such -case the oil may congeal at from 65.75° to 68° F., but the crystals are -opaque, dirty yellow, and dissolve to a turbid paste which collects on -the surface. The simplest method is to distil white roses with the red. -The resulting product has not as fine an odor as that from red roses -alone, but is richer in stearoptene. Such oil, which, unadulterated, -congeals perhaps at 68° F., can by the addition of geranium oil be -reduced to from 63.5° to 65.75° F., thus keeping within the limits -permitted. - -Numerous attempts have been made to find a rapid and sure way for the -detection of geranium oil in rose oil, but thus far in vain. Attention -must also be drawn to the fact that the adulterant is frequently itself -adulterated with oil of turpentine before being sold to the distillers -of rose oil. - -Besides the above-mentioned ginger-grass oil, the actual geranium oils -from _Pelargonium odoratissimum_ and _P. roseum_, as well as rosewood -oil, sandal-wood oil, spermaceti, paraffine, and fat oils have been -mentioned as adulterants of rose oil. The geranium oils having a -by-odor of lemon oil, by which their presence could be readily detected -are not suitable for the purpose. Neither can rosewood or sandal-wood -oils be used, or at least such adulteration would be so clumsy as to be -immediately recognized. Attempts to adulterate rose oil by the addition -of a fat crystallizable body together with another volatile oil fail -on account of the characteristic properties of rose oil stearoptene, -which resembles no other body at present known. While rose oil -stearoptene is lighter than elæoptene and entirely volatile, spermaceti -possesses essentially different qualities. It does not form such long -and specifically light crystals as rose oil stearoptene; hence it -readily separates on the bottom and on shaking exhibits a peculiar -iridescent loamy formation. Furthermore it melts at 122° F., and not -being volatile, leaves, on heating, a greasy stain upon paper, while -the stearoptene melts at 95° F. and, on heating, volatilizes completely -without leaving a greasy stain behind. - -If a rose oil is to be tested, expose the bottle containing the oil to -a moderate heat until the contents are entirely liquid; then gently -shake the bottle in order to bring about an intimate mixture of -elæoptene and stearoptene. Now pour some of the oil into a cylindrical -glass flask of 20 to 40 cubic centimeters' capacity and allow it -to congeal; then, while heating in the hand, observe how the rigid -portions act in liquefying. These rigid, crystalline portions should -be transparently clear and, being lighter than the fluid portion, -float, while liquefying, in the upper layer of the fluid. Hence, if -now the fluid be again allowed to congeal, the crystals should appear -within the upper half of the oil. The above-mentioned volatile oils -partially lack the property of separating a stearoptene in crystals at -from 33.8° to 50° F., and though they may have a rose odor, it is not -the mild, fragrant odor of genuine rose oil. To recognize the latter, -Guibourt makes use of pure concentrated sulphuric acid. Stir together -in a watch-crystal an equal number of drops of the oil and of the acid; -pure rose oil preserves its characteristic odor, while the foreign oils -exhibit a disagreeable odor even when mixed with genuine rose oil. - -Schimmel & Co. give a method for an approximate quantitative -determination of spermaceti in rose oil: Boil 3 to 5 grammes of -stearoptene, separated in the manner above given, with 20 to 25 grammes -of 5 per cent. alcoholic potash lye for 5 to 6 hours; then evaporate -the alcohol and compound the residue with hot water. In cooling, the -greater portion of the stearoptene separates in a crystalline mass upon -the surface. Now pour off the alkaline fluid, wash the stearoptene -with cold water, then melt it again in hot water, allow it to cool, -pour off the water, and repeat the same operations until the wash-water -is neutral. The combined aqueous fluids are twice shaken with ether to -remove any stearoptene suspended in them. The alcoholic lye separated -from the ether is acidulated with dilute sulphuric acid and again -extracted with ether. After evaporation no residue (fatty acids) should -remain. To control the experiment weigh the regained stearoptene dried -at 194° F., adding, of course, the ether used for extracting the -alkaline fluid. There will be a small loss, since small quantities of -stearoptene always evaporate in drying. - -_Rosemary oil_ (_oleum rosemarini_ or _ol. anthos_) is obtained in -Southern Europe, especially in Southern France, Dalmatia and Northern -Italy, by distillation from the flowering rosemary, _Rosmarinus -officinalis_, natural order _Labiatæ_. It is, when fresh, limpid, -colorless, or yellowish, of a penetrating, camphor-like odor and taste, -and specific gravity 0.880 to 0.915. By age it becomes darker and -thickly-fluid. The French rosemary oil is the best and most expensive. -It is distinguished from the Italian oil by its much more pleasant -odor. Pure French rosemary oil dissolves in an equal part of 90 per -cent. alcohol, while the Italian product requires 2 to 3 parts. The -cheaper rosemary oils are generally adulterated with oil of turpentine, -which is recognized by the oil not dissolving in the above-mentioned -proportion in alcohol, as well as by the iodine test. Rosemary oil does -not detonate with iodine, but simply dissolves with heating and perhaps -the emission of vapors. - -The French rosemary oil forms one of the ingredients of _eau de -Cologne_ and is used in other perfumery. - -_Rosewood oil or rhodium oil_ (_oleum ligni rhodii_), is obtained by -distillation from the wood of the root and lower trunk of _Convolvulus -scopiarius_ and _C. floridas, L._, two plants indigenous to the -Canaries. The waste falling off in the manufacture of rosewood beads -is chiefly used for the purpose. The oil is of a pale yellow color -becoming brown by age. It has a pleasant odor resembling in some -slight degree the fragrance of the rose. It is sometimes used in cheap -perfumery as a substitute for rose oil. - -_Sandal-wood oil_ (_oleum ligni sandali_) is distilled from the -white West Indian or dark yellow East Indian sandal-wood (_Santalum -myrtifolium_). For the purpose of distillation the wood is rasped as -finely as possible. The oil obtained from the East Indian wood is the -better and more valuable. It has a dark yellow to brown color and a -pleasant intense, rose-like odor, while the West Indian oil is pale -yellow and of a less agreeable odor. Both oils are very thickly-fluid. -The quality and value of sandal-wood oil are best judged by the odor, -an adulteration with cedar oil being readily detected thereby. - -_Sassafras oil_ (_oleum ligni sassafras_), from the bruised root of -the sassafras tree, _Sassafras officinale_, natural order _Lauraceæ_. -Sassafras is one of the most widely distributed trees of North America, -being found in Canada, in all of the United States, east of the -prairies, beyond the Mississippi, and in Mexico. The largest amount of -oil distilled is within sixty miles of Baltimore, Md., which is the -principal depot for its commerce. - -Oil of sassafras varies in color from colorless to yellow and red. -Its taste is pungent and aromatic, being agreeable to most persons. -It has a pleasant odor resembling that of fennel, and is heavier than -water, its specific gravity being 1.08 to 1.09. It is soluble in 4 to 5 -parts of alcohol of 0.85 specific gravity, and consists of a mixture of -various oils, among which is safrene (C_{10}H_{16}), a dextrorotatory -terpene which boils between 311° and 314.6° F. By strongly cooling in -a cold mixture, safrol, a crystallizing stearoptene of the composition -C_{10}H_{10}O_{2}, is separated. Safrol is the chief constituent of -sassafras oil. It is obtained in abundance by cooling, at a temperature -of 13° F., the portion boiling between 442.4° and 455° F. It melts at -46.4° F., and at a medium temperature forms a colorless clear oil of -pungent taste, characteristic odor, and specific gravity 1.104. When -the crystals have been heated to above 158° F., they congeal only after -remaining for weeks at a temperature below 32° F., but on being melted -at 68° F., the fluid mass again congeals readily on cooling. The safrol -is neutral, optically inactive, boils at 449.6° F., and is soluble in -alcohol and ether. Sassafras oil is said to be frequently adulterated -with oil of turpentine, which is, however, readily detected by the -energetic reaction and by distilling a sample of the suspected oil. - -Safrol is very suitable for perfuming ordinary soaps. It has in a -still higher degree than camphor oil the property of removing the -disagreeable odor of some fats, while at the same time it imparts to -the soaps an aromatic, refreshing odor. As a rule 8 to 11 ozs. are -used for 220 lbs. of soap; but if it shall at the same time serve for -removing the disagreeable odor of low quality fats, especially those -extracted with bisulphide of carbon or benzine, it is advisable to -take 2.2 lbs., or still better, 4.4 lbs. for 220 lbs. of soap. In this -case the safrol should be added to the fat after melting and before -saponification and thoroughly mixed with it by stirring. An excellent -perfume for ordinary soaps is a mixture of safrol and citronella oil, -it being at any rate preferable to oil of mirbane. - -The standard of value for safrol is its specific gravity, which should -not be below 1.104 at 59° F. Specifically lighter kinds contain camphor -oil and other impurities. - -_Thyme oil_ is obtained in Southern France and Spain by distillation -from the flowering thyme, _Thymus vulgaris, L._ It is greenish-yellow -to red (red thyme oil, _oleum thymi rubrum_), but by rectification -becomes colorless (white thyme oil, _oleum thymi album_). Both oils -are quite limpid and possess a strong thyme odor. The specific gravity -of the red oil is 0.91 to 0.94, and that of the rectified oil 0.87 -to 0.89. The oil prepared from the fresh plant shows, as a rule, a -higher specific gravity than that from the dried plant. Thyme oil -consists essentially of thymene (C_{10}H_{16}) besides some cymene -(C_{10}H_{14}) and thymol (C_{10}H_{14}O), the latter forming an -essential constitutent of the oil. Oils from which the thymol has -been withdrawn occur in commerce. Pure thyme oil dissolves clear in -every proportion in 90 per cent. alcohol; if such is not the case, -adulteration with oil of turpentine is probable. - -The oil distilled from the field thyme, _Thymus serpyllum, L._, is -limpid, yellowish to gold yellow, and of specific gravity 0.89 to 0.91. -Old oil is red or brown and no longer limpid. Good oil is soluble in -every proportion in 90 per cent. alcohol and emits only slight vapors -when brought in contact with iodine. It consists largely of thymene and -cymene, and contains a few per cent. of phenol-like bodies. - -_Turpentine, oil of._--Under the general name "oil of turpentine" are -comprised the volatile oils obtained by distillation from the resins -or other portions of different species of the pine. There is a large -number of these oils, the most important ones of which shall here be -mentioned, though but a few are of interest to the perfumer. - -_Austrian oil of turpentine_, from _Pinus laricio, Poir_.--It is -colorless or yellowish, transparent; specific gravity, 0.864; boiling -point, 311° to 314° F.; turns polarized light to the left; soluble in 6 -parts 90 per cent. alcohol. When rectified it has a specific gravity of -0.862, and is soluble in 7 parts of 90 per cent. alcohol. - -_German oil of turpentine_, from _Pinus sylvestris_, _P. abies_, _P. -vulgaris_, _P. picea_, and _P. rotundata_, resembles the former; -specific gravity, 0.860 to 0.870; boiling point, 311° to 320° F.; turns -polarized light to the left. When rectified it is soluble in 7 parts of -90 per cent. alcohol. - -_French oil of turpentine_, from French turpentine of _Pinus -maritima_.--It is colorless or faint yellowish; specific gravity, -0.860; boiling point, 313° to 315° F.; turns polarized light to the -left; odor peculiar; taste burning. With 7 parts of 90 per cent. -alcohol it gives a clear solution. - -_Venetian oil of turpentine_, from Venice turpentine of _Larix decidua, -Mill._, is laevorotatory and resembles the preceding, but has a more -agreeable odor. Venice turpentine is mostly obtained in Southern Tyrol -and in Piedmont, and yields 18 to 25 per cent. of oil. - -_American oil of turpentine_, from American turpentine of _Pinus -australis, Mich._, and _P. Taeda, L._--It resembles French turpentine, -but turns polarized light to the right. Specific gravity, 0.864; -boiling point, 302° to 312.8° F. - -_Pine oil_ (_oleum abietis_) is obtained by distilling with water the -leaves or green cones of _Pinus picea, L._, _Abies pectinata, D. C._ -Its odor is much finer than that of ordinary oil of turpentine. It is -soluble in 7 parts of 90 per cent. alcohol. - -_Dwarf pine oil, Krummholz or Latschenoel_ (_oleum pini pumilionis_), -is obtained by distilling the young tops and cones of _Pinus -pumilio_ with water. It has an agreeable odor, reminding one of -juniper; specific gravity, 0.865; boiling point, 338° F. The oil is -laevorotatory and soluble in 12 to 15 parts of 90 per cent. alcohol. - -_Pine-leaf oil_ is obtained by distilling the leaves of _Pinus -sylvestris_ or _P. abies_ by means of steam. It is dextrorotatory; has -a fine aromatic odor; boiling point, 320° F.; specific gravity, 0.875 -to 0.876. - -_Templin oil_ (_Kienoel_) (_oleum pini_, _ol. templinum_) is obtained -chiefly in some sections of Switzerland and Tyrol by distilling the -wood, branches, leaves, cones, etc., with water. It has a lemon-like -odor; specific gravity, 0.860 to 0.880; boiling point, 320° to 327° F., -and is laevorotatory. - -_Balsam-pine oil_ (_oleum abietis canadensis_) is obtained in Canada -from the branches of _Abies balsamea, D. C._ It has a slightly -yellowish color, a very agreeable and refreshing odor; specific -gravity, 0.902; boiling point at 320° to 330.8° F., and turns -polarized light to the right. - -Of the different varieties of oil of turpentine mentioned only pine oil -and dwarf pine oil are used in perfumery. - -Oils of turpentine must be kept carefully protected from light and air. -When badly kept they gradually become resinous with formation of formic -and acetic acids. When exposed to the air oil of turpentine absorbs -ozone; with iodine it detonates violently. When brought in contact with -a mixture of concentrated sulphuric acid and nitric acid it ignites. - -_Verbena, oil of_, from the lemon verbena, _Aloysia citriodora, -Hooker_. The plant is cultivated in the gardens of Grasse. The oil is -extracted from the leaves by distillation in August, but on account of -its high price is almost out of market, it being everywhere substituted -by the oil of lemon grass, _Andropogon citratus_. - -_Violet, oil of._--The perfume of the violet, _Viola odorata_, natural -order _Violaceæ_, is due to a volatile oil of a green color and of such -a penetrating odor as to cause headache; it acquires the agreeable odor -of the violet only by strong dilution. The violet farms from whence the -flowers are procured for the production of the oil, are very extensive -at Nice and in the neighborhood of Florence. The oil is only obtained -by the absorption process, all other methods to procure it having -failed up to this time. It is scarcely obtainable in commerce, as the -French manufacturers, who prepare the greater part of it, use the very -small yield for manufacturing fine perfumery. - -_Vitivert or vetiver oil_ (_oleum iva ranchusa_) from the so-called -cuscus, the rhizome of an Indian grass, _Anathereum muricatum_. The -oil is obtained by distillation, either from the fresh root in India, -or from the imported dried root in Europe. The yield is very small. -The oil is thickly-fluid, of a red-brown color, and has an intense, -but agreeable odor very much like that of oil of orris root. Like the -latter, it possesses the valuable property of diffusing a lasting -perfume. Its value can only be judged by the odor, and hence it should -only be purchased from a thoroughly reliable firm. - -_Wintergreen oil_ (_oleum gaultheriæ_) is obtained by distillation -from the wintergreen, _Gaultheria procumbens_, a plant common in North -America. It is thickly fluid, yellowish green to gold yellow, of a -sweetish, aromatic, pungent taste and penetrating, narcotic odor, which -becomes agreeable only by strongly diluting the oil. By rectification -the oil becomes entirely colorless. Its specific gravity is 1.170 to -1.190 (according to Gladstone, 1.142). It is sparingly soluble in -water, but readily so in alcohol, ether, chloroform, etc. The aqueous -or dilute alcoholic solution is colored deep violet by ferric chloride. - -Wintergreen oil boils at 392° F.; the boiling point, however, soon -rises to 431.6° F., when it remains constant. Between 392° and 428° F. -a terpene (C_{10}H_{16}) constituting about 1/10 of the oil distils -off; the rest corresponds to the composition C_{8}H_{8}O_{3}; it is -methyl salicylate - - = C_{6}H_{4} {OH - {CO.OCH_{3}. - -Wintergreen oil is also obtained by distillation from _Gaultheria -punctata_ and _Gaultheria leucocarpa_. An oil, very closely resembling -wintergreen oil, is in this country distilled from the young shoots of -the American species of birch, _Betula lenta_, variously called sweet -birch, black birch, cherry birch, and mountain mahogany. According -to Procter, the oil does not exist in the birch but is formed by the -action of the water upon an odorless body, called gaultherin, which -is converted into volatile oil by the reaction of another substance -analogous to emulsin. Hence the formation of oil is similar to that -of oil of bitter almonds. To obtain the oil from _Betula lenta_, -the material is chopped up and placed in the still, as much as this -will hold, a sufficient quantity of water being then added to fill -the still about one-third full. The still is generally permitted to -remain in this condition over night, a fire is made in the morning -and distillation proceeds nicely. The manufacture of birch oil is -carried on at quite a large scale by Mr. A. H. Seidle, of Middleport, -Schuylkill County, Pa. - -Methyl salicylate may also be artificially prepared by heating a -mixture of methyl alcohol, sulphuric acid and salicylic acid whereby -at first methyl-sulphuric acid is formed which is then converted into -methyl ether and sulphuric acid:-- - - {OH {OCH_{3} - SO_{2}{ + CH_{3}OH = SO_{2}{ + H_{2}O - {OH {OH - - {OCH_{3} {OH - SO_{2}{ + C_{6}H_{4}{ = - {OH {COOH - - {OH {OH - C_{6}H_{4}{ + SO_{2}{ - {CO.OCH_{3} {OH. - -Etherification succeeds without difficulty, it being sufficient to -heat the mixture for some time and then pour it into water whereby -the ether separates as a heavy layer of oil. After washing with water -distil in a direct current of steam. The ether thus obtained is as -clear as water and, as regards its other properties, does not differ -from the naturally occurring oil. This artificial wintergreen oil is -now much used for perfuming purposes. - -Wintergreen oil is said to be frequently adulterated with sassafras oil -which is also specifically heavier than water. If, according to Hayer, -5 drops of the oil in a test-tube be mixed with 10 drops of crude -concentrated nitric acid, a deep blood-red fluid results in one minute -if oil of sassafras is present. In the course of another minute, the -fluid separates a brown resinous mass. Pure oil, on the other hand, is -but little altered. - -According to P. MacEwan the adulteration of wintergreen oil with -camphor oil is carried on at a large scale. The presence of camphor -oil may be recognized by the specific gravity, 0.900, while that of -pure wintergreen oil is, on an average, 1.18. A crude test--which is, -however, readily executed--is as follows: Stir a few drops of the -suspected oil in water. If pure, the oil in a few seconds sinks to the -bottom, but if it contains camphor oil several minutes elapse before it -deposits, and there is time to observe that the particles of oil assume -different forms, but not a globular one. - -_Ylang-Ylang oil_ (_oleum unonæ_) is obtained by distilling the flowers -of _Unona odoratissima_, indigenous to the Philippine Islands, the -Straits of Malacca, and Indian Archipelago. The oil is colorless to -yellowish. Its color and specific gravity, however vary very much, -according to the season of the year in which it is prepared, the oil -distilled in the cold season being more colorless and limpid than that -produced in the warm season. The oil has an exquisite odor, partaking -of the jasmine and the lilac, and is used in the manufacture of the -finest perfumery. Various kinds are found in commerce, that marked -"Sartorius" being preferred. - -The difference in quality of the many kinds of oil found in commerce -is chiefly due to the method of preparation and the selection of the -flowers, which possess the finest aroma when freshly gathered. In -distilling, the first light volatile portions passing over have an -incomparable perfume, while the oil distilling over later on possesses -an insipid odor. Hence the manufacturer, who only obtains the first -portions, will furnish the finest quality of oil, and it is this -method of preparation which has gained the "Sartorius" oil its high -reputation. While according to Schimmel & Co.'s report, 220 lbs. of -fresh ylang-ylang flowers yield 2.64 lbs. of oil, Sartorius for the -preparation of his fine oil distils off only about half the quantity. - -_Conanga oil_ is a poorer quality of ylang-ylang oil, obtained from -the same plant. Two varieties are distinguished in commerce, viz: the -_Javanese_ and _Indian_. The Java oil is the best, and may be used -where ordinary qualities of ylang-ylang oil will do. According to -Schimmel & Co.'s report the cheaper Indian oil is very resistant and -durable in soaps, especially when combined with licari or linaloë oil. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -RESINS AND BALSAMS. - - -The term _resins_ is applied to certain organic substances which are -very closely related to volatile oils, in so far as many of them are -formed from the latter by oxidation. As previously mentioned, by -exposure to the atmospheric air all volatile oils undergo a change, -whereby they thicken and are finally converted into substances -possessing the character of resins. In nature most resins also occur -mixed with volatile oils. - -The elementary constituents of resins are carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen; -but, generally speaking, they are poor in oxygen and rich in carbon. -Chemically they behave like weak acids, their solutions frequently -reddening litmus and sometimes expelling, on boiling, the carbonic acid -from alkaline carbonates. - -Independent of a possible content of volatile oil, every naturally -occurring resin consists of several resins which, however, can, as a -rule, be separated only with difficulty. - -The resins are generally divided into _hard resins_, _soft resins_ -or _balsams_, and _gum-resins_. The hard resins are, at the ordinary -temperature, solid, hard, and brittle, can be readily pulverized, and -contain little or no volatile oil. The soft resins or balsams are -kneadable, and sometimes even semi-fluid; they represent solutions of -resins in volatile oils, or a mixture of volatile oil and resin. On -exposure to the air they are changed by the volatile oil suffering -oxidation, they becoming then more or less hard, and may be converted -into actual resins. The gum-resins are mixtures of vegetable gum, -resin, and volatile oils, and are obtained by inspissation of the milky -juice of several plants. When triturated with water they yield a milky, -turbid fluid, and dissolve only partially in alcohol. - -The resins are widely diffused in the vegetable kingdom, there -being scarcely a plant which does not contain resin in one form or -another. Some families of plants and organs of plants are, however, -distinguished by their special wealth of resins. The resins are, as a -rule, secreted simultaneously with volatile oils in special reservoirs, -from which they flow out naturally at certain periods, or are obtained -by incisions made in the plants. A few bodies of the character of -resins also occur in the animal kingdom, and a series of them, the -fossil resins, are generally classed in the mineral kingdom, though -most of them are very likely derived from plants. Some resins, such as -the aldehyde resins, etc., are purely artificial products. - -Of the hard resins, benzoin alone is used in perfumery; of the balsams, -Peru balsam, Tolu balsam, and storax balsam; and of the gum-resins, the -myrrh. - -_Benzoin_ is exclusively obtained from _Styrax benzoïn, Dryand_ -(_Benzoïne officinale, Hayne_), a tree which grows in Java, Sumatra, -and Siam. The bark of the tree is slit to allow a fluid to flow out, -which concretes on the trunk in the form of grains, or is collected -in vessels in which it congeals and assumes the form of lumps -("tampangs"). Older trees which have been frequently tapped for resin -yield a product of a lower quality; the grains ("tears") forming, as a -rule, the better varieties. When the benzoin collects in large masses -it always shows an amygdaloid structure, the grains ("almonds") of a -roundish form, smooth termination, homogeneous structure, and paler -color, appearing imbedded in a dark, porous, or resiniform mass. - -According to the appearance of the product three varieties are -distinguished: Benzoin in tears (_B. in lacrimis_), _amygdaloid -benzoin_ (_B. amygdaloides_), and lump benzoin (_B. in sortis_, _B. -in massis_). The _benzoin in tears_ forms loose, smoothly terminated, -longish, homogeneously appearing masses of an opal-like lustre, and -first of a whitish, and later on, of a yellowish, reddish, or brownish -color. The separate pieces are up to 3 millimeters in diameter, though -the Siam benzoin in tears frequently consists of still larger and -generally decidedly flattened pieces. - -_Amygdaloid benzoin_ consists chiefly of white pieces, becoming, later -on, brownish, of a waxy lustre and imbedded in a lustrous brown-red -resinous mass. The _lump benzoin_ or _ordinary benzoin_ has also an -amygdaloid structure but is not so rich in almonds as the preceding -variety and possesses either a fine granular or colophony-like -ground-mass and is frequently contaminated by parts of plants. The -exterior of the variety occurring in commerce in large lumps shows, -according to the mode of packing, the imprint of leaves or of coarse -pack-cloth. - -Benzoin generally consists of cinnamic and benzoic acids which occur in -a crystalline state in the grains as well as the ground-mass; further, -of several amorphous resins soluble in alcohol, and coloring matter. -The content of cinnamic and benzoic acids amounts to from 12 to 20 per -cent. The best varieties from Sumatra and Singapore contain no benzoic -acid, and those from Siam no cinnamic acid. - -All varieties of benzoin possess a peculiar odor, that of the better -varieties being agreeable, and a sweet, aromatic, but pungent taste. -The melting point generally lies between 176° and 203° F., that of the -tears and of the almonds being lower than that of the ground-mass. -A low melting-point is accepted as a mark of quality, Siam benzoin, -which is considered the best, melting at 167° F. Some varieties, for -instance, those recently imported from Singapore, have a pronounced -vanilla-like odor; the presence of vanillin has been established in -them. The Sumatra benzoin has a storax-like odor. - -Benzoin is sparingly soluble in chloroform, only partially so in ether, -and completely in alcohol. On mixing the alcoholic solution with water, -the resin is separated. Petroleum-ether and benzine withdraw only -benzoic acid from the dry, powdered benzoin. All varieties of benzoin -dissolve in concentrated sulphuric acid to a beautiful purple colored -fluid, from which benzoic acid, if present, is separated in crystals -by the gradual addition of water. The establishment of the presence -of cinnamic acid is best effected as follows: Boil the sample in milk -of lime, filter, and treat the solution with hydrochloric acid. The -precipitate thereby separated is thoroughly washed, triturated with -potassium permanganate and water, and heated, whereby in the presence -of cinnamic acid, oil of bitter almonds is formed from the latter, -which is readily recognized by the odor. - -If benzoin containing benzoic acid be heated, white vapors are emitted -which, on cold surfaces, deposit in very delicate, lustrous, acicular, -or foliated crystals of benzoic acid, the so-called benzoin flowers -(_Floris benzoes_.) Benzoic acid thus prepared possesses an agreeable, -vanilla-like odor, since by heating the benzoin the greater portion -of the odoriferous substance contained in it escapes. Benzoic acid -separated by the wet method is odorless. - -Benzoin is especially used for fumigating pastilles. It is also of -great importance on account of its property of preventing fats from -becoming rancid, if added to them in small quantities. - -_Peru balsam_ (_Balsamum Peruvianum_) is the produce of the Balsam -Coast, San Salvador, Central America, where Sansonate forms the -central point of the industry. In the mountain forests, back of the -coast, grows the balsam tree (_Myroxylon Pereiræ, Klotzch_; _Toluiferæ -Pereiræ, Baillon_), natural order, _Papilionaceæ_. The gaining of -balsam commences when the tree is five years old, the collecting time -beginning in the dry season in the first days of November. The trunks -of the trees are belabored with hammers on four places (according to -other statements, on twenty to thirty), so that the bark is detached -in strips. After a few days the bark thus loosened is burnt off by -means of torches, whereupon a balsamic fluid oozes from the young wood, -which is absorbed by pieces of cloth or rags, placed upon the denuded -places. When the rags are thoroughly saturated with balsam, they are -squeezed out and then thrown into an earthen pot filled with boiling -water, whereby the balsam is detached and collects on the bottom of -the vessel. By this process the _Balsamo de trapó_ is obtained. By -boiling the bark, which falls off, a small quantity of a poorer quality -of balsam, called _tacuasonte_, is obtained, which, it would seem, -is frequently added to the better quality. Crude Peruvian balsam is -a gray-green to dirty-yellow fluid, of the consistency of syrup. The -process of purification in use on the Balsamic Coast is as follows: The -crude balsam is brought into large iron vessels, holding from 1300 to -1500 lbs. each, and allowed to clarify by quietly standing from 8 to -14 days, the heavy impurities settling on the bottom, while the light -dirt, together with the water, appears as foam on the surface. After 8 -to 14 days the balsam is drawn off through a cock, located about 4¾ -inches above the bottom of the vessel, into a tinned iron boiler, and -boiled over an open fire at a moderate heat for 2 to 3 hours. The foam -which forms is skinned off, and boiling continued until no more foam -appears. - -The collection of balsam continues until the first rain falls in April -or May, when the work ceases. A vigorous tree, well treated, yields -balsam for 30 years in succession, and if then allowed to rest 5 or 6 -years can be used several years longer. The annual yield of balsam from -100 trees is said to be about 550 lbs. - -From the very odoriferous flowers of the balsam tree or, according -to others, by expressing the fruits, a _white_ Peruvian balsam is -obtained, which is, however, seldom found in commerce. It is of the -consistency of honey, pale-yellow, smells of vanilla and melilot, and -has an aromatic bitter taste. On standing for some time it deposits -crystals of myroxocarpin. - -Ordinary (black) Peruvian balsam is a black-brown fluid, transparent -and dark (honey-yellow in thin layers), which retains its consistency -even after being kept for years and deposits no crystals. It shows -a slight acid reaction, has an agreeable odor reminding one of gum -benzoin and vanilla, and at first a mild, but, later on, a sharp and -pungent taste. - -The specific gravity of pure Peru balsam formerly varied between 1.14 -and 1.16, but at present between 1.135 and 1.145, this change in the -specific gravity being very likely due to a different process of -purification. - -Peru balsam is miscible in every proportion with absolute alcohol, -while ether leaves behind undissolved a black, smeary residue, and -hot oils of turpentine or almonds dissolve only about one-half. It -is miscible with acetone, chloroform, amyl alcohol. By digesting the -balsam with aqueous potash lye, _Peru balsam oil_, which constitutes -about 60 per cent. of the balsam, separates on the surface. In an -undecomposed state the oil is, according to Kachler, chiefly benzyl, -cinnamate, or cinnamein. The potash solution separated from the Peru -balsam oil, contains cinnamic acid, benzoic acid, and resin. The -latter, according to Stotze, can be separated into two portions, one -soluble, and the other insoluble, in aqueous alcohol. - -Benzine and petroleum-ether dissolve from the Peru balsam only the -nearly colorless cinnamein of which it contains up to 45 per cent. -The behavior of Peru balsam towards bisulphide of carbon is very -characteristic, 3 parts of it giving, according to Flückiger, a clear -solution with 1 part of bisulphide of carbon; if, however, 8 parts -more of the latter be added, up to 30 per cent. of a dark resin is -separated, while the bisulphide of carbon is but slightly colored. - -From San Salvador 11,000 to 13,000 lbs. of Peru balsam are annually -brought to Europe, it being generally imported in tin cans, and more -rarely in earthen jars surrounded by a kind of plaited matting. -According to whether the product comes by way of England, New York, -Bremen, or Hamburg, it is distinguished as English, American, Bremen, -or Hamburg Peru balsam. The supply being frequently insufficient, the -balsam is subjected to many adulterations. A cheap, so-called London -Peru balsam always contained colophony and had a specific gravity of -1.133. There can be no doubt that pure unadulterated Peru balsam is -difficult to obtain. - -As adulterants, are used: Alcohol, volatile oils, fat oil, especially -castor oil; further, copaiba balsam, Canada balsam, gurjun balsam, -storax, benzoin, and asphaltum. The establishment of these adulterants -is connected with difficulties; but the properties of Peru balsam are -so characteristic that it is quite easy to detect whether it is genuine -and pure, or not, the specific gravity and proportions of solubility -deserving especial attention in this respect. The test by the specific -gravity is available, since most of the adulterants render the balsam -specifically lighter, especially alcohol, but also copaiba balsam -(specific gravity, O.95), castor oil (0.96), oil of turpentine (0.87), -gurjun (0.96), etc. The customary procedure is as follows: Prepare a -common salt solution of 1.25 specific gravity, by dissolving 1 part of -dried sodium chloride in 5 parts of distilled water; drop the balsam -into the solution; every drop of pure Peru balsam sinks in a roundish -form to the bottom; but if the drop again comes to the surface and -spreads out upon it, it is a sure sign of some kind of adulteration. -However, the change in the specific gravity by the admixture of fat -oils is but very slight, since the balsam can only be mixed with them -to a conformable fluid in the proportion of from 7 to 10 to 1. Castor -oil forms an exception in this respect, it being miscible also in other -proportions. - -Petroleum-ether is an excellent testing agent. Bring into a test-tube -about 2.5 grammes of Peru balsam, and 6 to 7 centimeters of -petroleum-ether, close the tube with the finger and shake vigorously; -a brown, thickly-fluid mass adheres in unequal layers to the sides of -the tube, and before running together remains in this position 1 to -2 minutes after the petroleum-ether has been poured into a porcelain -saucer. If, however, the mass is thinly-fluid, and does not, in the -above-mentioned manner, adhere to the sides of the tube, but, after -shaking, collects below the petroleum-ether, the balsam is adulterated. -After shaking, immediately pour off the petroleum-ether; if the latter -is almost colorless, or but slightly colored yellowish, the balsam is -pure; if, however, it is turbid, and soon forms a sediment, or if it is -yellow or brownish, or brown, the balsam is adulterated. - -Alcohol is added either by itself or in the form of saturated -solution of storax, benzoin, or Canada balsam, by which means the -specific gravity of the balsam is but slightly changed. Bring the -above-mentioned common salt solution, together with 20 grammes of the -Peru balsam to be examined, into a small flask, and distil off about 5 -grammes; gradually mix the distillate with 5 drops of caustic potash -lye and potassium iodide solution saturated with iodine, shaking gently -until the mixture acquires a slightly yellow-brownish coloration. If -this coloration does not disappear in one minute, add drop by drop -more of the potash lye until discoloration appears. In the presence -of alcohol, yellow crystals of iodoform, which are readily recognized -under the microscope by their form, collect on the bottom of the fluid. -Adulteration with a volatile oil is recognized in the distillate by -odor and taste. - -Fat oil, Canada balsam, copaiba balsam, gurjun balsam, and volatile -oil may be recognized by the following tests: If pure Peru balsam in -a porcelain saucer is thoroughly mixed with an equal volume of pure -concentrated sulphuric acid, the mixture thereby becomes heated, vapors -of a pungent odor being emitted, and if then set aside to cool, it -congeals. In the presence of fat or volatile oils, copaiba balsam, -gurjun balsam, or Canada balsam, it remains, however, more or less -thickly fluid or more or less soft-smeary. If the balsam be pure, the -cold mixture, after washing with water, should yield a hardish or -soft-friable mass, which, when kneaded with the fingers, should not -prove smeary or sticky. - -Fat oils are also very readily recognized by the use of warm -petroleum-ether. The extract is evaporated, saponified with potash lye, -extracted with alcohol, evaporated and decomposed with hydrochloric -acid. A mixture of cinnamic acid and any of the fatty acids present in -the Peru balsam is thereby obtained, which, after treatment with water, -remains in the residue. - -Of copaiba balsam, Peru balsam can take up as much as 25 per cent. -From such adulterated balsam benzine dissolves the copaiba balsam, -together with cinnamein, and the adulteration can then be recognized by -the odor. Cinnamein treated with sulphuric acid acquires a cherry-red -color, while in the presence of copaiba balsam or gurjun balsam, a -yellow-brown coloration appears. The detection of an adulteration of -Peru balsam with storax is, according to Denner, effected as follows: -Shake in a test-tube 5 parts of the balsam to be examined with 5 parts -of a 15 per cent. soda solution (soda lye of 1.60 specific gravity) -and 10 parts of water. Then shake with 15 parts of ether, and after -settling pour off the ether as much as possible. Repeat the shaking -with 15 parts of fresh ether. Now heat the aqueous residue to boiling, -acidulate with hydrochloric acid, add cold water, remove the resin -separated thereby from the fluids, dissolve it in about 3 parts of soda -lye of the above-mentioned strength, dilute with 20 parts of water, -heat to boiling, and precipitate with barium chloride solution. Bring -the precipitate upon the filter, and, after allowing it to drain off, -dry it in the water-bath. Then extract it with alcohol, evaporate the -alcoholic extract, take it up with concentrated sulphuric acid, add -chloroform, and shake. In the presence of gum benzoin or storax, the -chloroform acquires a violet to blue color. This method is a sure test -for the recognition of even very small admixtures. - -A content of asphaltum is readily detected by mixing the Peru balsam -with ether compounded with about ⅛ alcohol. Any asphaltum present -remains undissolved, and may be collected upon a filter. - -In perfumery Peru balsam is chiefly used for pomades and fumigating -pastilles, but also for cosmetics and soaps. - -_Tolu balsam_ is the produce of _Myroxylon toluiferum, Humb._, _Bonpl._ -et _Kunth_, _Toluifera balsamum, L._, a tree of the natural order -_Papilionaceæ_, growing in Northwestern South America. It exudes during -the heat of the day, and is collected in gourds. It soon hardens, by -which it is distinguished from Peru balsam. In commerce two varieties -of Tolu balsam are found, one of the consistency of turpentine and the -other solid. The first variety, Brazilian balsam, forms a semi-fluid, -turpentine-like, sticky mass, of the color of copaiba balsam. By long -storage it becomes hard and brownish. The solid variety, Tolu, or -Carthagena balsam, is a brittle, more or less translucent yellow-brown -or red-brown resin of a granular or crystalline appearance. It softens -at about 86° F., and melts between 140° and 149° F. Viewed under the -microscope, it appears rich in crystals of separated ciannamic and -benzoic acids. Its specific gravity varies between 1 and 2. Both -varieties of Tolu balsam have an aromatic, slightly pungent and sourish -taste, resembling somewhat that of Peru balsam. They are readily -soluble in ordinary spirit of wine, alcohol, acetone, chloroform, and -potash lye, but insoluble in petroleum-ether and bisulphide of carbon. -In Tolu balsam have been found toluene, cinnamic and benzoic acids, and -several resins not yet sufficiently examined. According to Scharling, -toluene constitutes about 1 per cent. of the Tolu balsam. It forms -a colorless, limp oil, boils, according to Deville, at 338° F., and -according to E. Kopp, at between 309° and 320° F., and has a specific -gravity of 0.858. It has a sharp, pungent, pepper-like taste, and an -odor resembling that of elemi. In the air, it is gradually converted by -oxidation into a soft resin, without, however, becoming colored. - -On boiling Tolu balsam with water, cinnamic and benzoic acids are -separated from the solution. When treated with potash lye the resinous -acids are fixed, and the toluene floats upon the fluid. - -Commercial Tolu balsam is frequently more or less mixed with vegetable -remains, which, however, can be readily detected with the microscope, -especially after the solution of the resinous constituents. It -is frequently adulterated with turpentine or pine resin. Such -adulterations may be detected by bisulphide of carbon, which completely -dissolves these substances, but not the Tolu balsam. When pure Tolu -balsam is triturated with concentrated sulphuric acid, a cherry-red -fluid is, according to Ulex, obtained, which does not evolve sulphurous -acid, as is the case in the presence of turpentine-resins. - -Tolu balsam is chiefly used for fumigating pastilles. The tincture -prepared from it is also frequently used with advantage to give -durability to the scent of handkerchief perfumes. - -According to Holmes and Nalor, a Tolu balsam differing in its chemical -behavior is found in the English wholesale trade. In thick layers -it is yellow-brown, but perfectly transparent and gold-yellow in -thin layers and extraordinarily sticky. By storage it hardens but -slightly, and does not become brittle even if exposed for several days -to a temperature of 212° F. Its odor reminds one somewhat of glue, -and it develops a pungent, sharp taste only after chewing it for a -few seconds. Its melting point lies at 136.4° F., being lower than -that of ordinary Tolu balsam, from which it also differs in that it -completely dissolves in ether as well as in benzine, while it is only -partially dissolved by potash lye. The balsam contains no toluene, nor -a hydrocarbon, boiling at 320° F. Further investigations have shown it -actually to be a natural product, the derivation of which, however, -could not be ascertained. - -_Storax_ is the produce of _Liquid ambar orientale, Mill_, a -plantain-like tree which reaches a height of about 32 feet. In -Southern Asia Minor, especially in Cyprus, the tree forms handsome, -dense forests. According to Flückiger, the balsam is extracted from -the peeled-off bark, with the assistance of warm water. The mass thus -melted out sinks down in the water, and is later on combined with the -substance obtained by expressing the boiled bark while still warm. This -mixture forms the _liquid storax_ (_Storax liquidus_). The residue -remaining after expression is dried in the sun and forms, under the -name of _Cortex thymiamatis_, an article of commerce, which is used for -fumigating purpose, for the preparation of ordinary storax, etc. The -crude storax is brought to Smyrna, Syra, and Kos, and comes into the -European market almost exclusively from Trieste. - -Liquid storax is a sticky, opaque substance of the consistency of -turpentine. It has a mouse-gray color, which by contact with the air -becomes brown on the surface, an agreeable benzoin-like odor, and a -sharp, pungent, aromatic taste. It is heavier than water, its specific -gravity being 1.112 to 1.115. On losing its content of moisture (by -drying out when heated) it becomes brown and clear. When exposed to -the air in a thick layer it does not completely dry, and in a thin -layer only after considerable time; but when pressed with the finger -always shows a certain stickiness. It is partially soluble in spirits -of wine, yielding with it a more or less turbid solution. It is also -incompletely soluble in oil of turpentine, benzine, petroleum-ether, -and chloroform. Viewed under the microscope liquid storax appears as a -colorless thickish fluid, intermingled with larger and smaller drops, -fragments of bark tissue, and now and then, perhaps, with crystals of -styracin and cinnamic acid. - -Liquid storax contains styrol (10 to 15 per cent.), styracin, and -cinnamic acid (10 to 15 per cent.). Styrol or cinnamol seems to be -the most important carrier of the odor and taste of liquid storax. If -20 parts of liquid storax are subjected to distillation together with -15 parts of crystallized soda and 200 parts of water, the cinnamol -collects in the form of a yellowish, very mobile liquid upon the -distillate. By rectification it can be obtained colorless, but is -thereby partially converted into metastyrol, an isomeric, amorphous, -odorless, and tasteless substance which is solid at an ordinary -temperature. By exposure for some time to a heat of 608° F. it is -reconverted into styrol. Styrol (C_{8}H_{8}) forms a clear, colorless, -mobile liquid having an odor of benzine and naphthalene. Its specific -gravity is 0.924 and its boiling point lies at 294.8° F. In water it -is but sparingly soluble, but is miscible in all proportions with -anhydrous spirit of wine, chloroform, benzine, ether, and oils. It -stands in the same relation to cinnamic acid as benzol to benzoic acid, -and is formed by distilling a mixture of cinnamic acid and barium oxide. - -Styracin is cinnyl cinnamate. On distilling liquid storax with water, -styrol passes over. If now from the residue the cinnamic acid be -withdrawn by means of soda-solution, and the resin, which remains -behind, be treated with cold spirit of wine, styracin is left, which -crystallizes from ether, hot alcohol, or benzol. It forms colorless, -odorless, and tasteless crystals which melt at 113° F. and remain for -a long time fluid after melting. It is insoluble in water, but soluble -in 25 parts cold, and 2 parts boiling, spirit of wine, as well as in 5 -parts ether. By oxidizing substances it is converted into bitter almond -oil and benzoic acid, and by the action of potassium hydroxide it is -decomposed to cinnyl alcohol and cinnamic acid. - -Good liquid storax should yield to 90 per cent. alcohol at least so -much soluble matter that the dried residue of the filtered alcoholic -solution amounts to 65 per cent. of the quantity of storax. - -Ordinary liquid storax, which has not been stored too long, contains -10 to 20 per cent. of water and about the same quantity of impurities -(fragments of plant tissue) which remain behind on treatment with the -above-mentioned solvents. - -Liquid storax is said to be adulterated with the turpentines of some -species of larch and pine. Such adulteration is primarily detected, -according to Hager, by the specific gravity. Take up a drop of the -balsam with a knitting-needle, and by heating the needle make it -fall into a cold solution of 1 part common salt and 8 parts water. On -stirring, the drop must sink, otherwise adulteration with turpentine -is very likely. Next bring 5 grammes of the storax into a test-tube, -melt it in the water-bath, add ½ volume of absolute alcohol, and -mix by shaking; then compound the mixture with several times its -volume of petroleum-ether, shake vigorously, allow to settle, and -decant the layer of petroleum-ether. Repeat twice this shaking with -petroleum-ether; then evaporate the petroleum-ether solution in a tared -flask in the water-bath. The residue remaining after evaporation is -colorless, bluish opalescent, and of an agreeable odor; in the presence -of turpentine it is yellowish and has the, not to be mistaken, odor of -turpentine. - -_Storax in grains_ consists of round, longish grains of a brown-black -color and smooth, lustrous surface, which soften by the warmth of the -hand. It is nothing but liquid storax brought into a granular form and -by storing freed more or less from impurities. - -_Ordinary storax_ (_Styrax calamitus_ or _St. vulgaris_) is an -artificial product prepared by mixing liquid storax with various -comminuted vegetable substances. Formerly the above-mentioned bark of -the storax tree (_Cortex thymiamatis_) was only used for this purpose, -but at present sawdust and exhausted cinnamon are also taken. This -storax forms a reddish or brown-black, humus-like mass, which is -generally moist. When dried it is very friable and has a storax-like -odor distinctly calling to mind that of cinnamon. Good qualities are -abundantly covered with crystalline efflorescences (of cinnamic acid -and styracin); poorer qualities prepared with the addition of sawdust -have a musty odor. The admixed vegetable tissue can, according to -Wiesner, be readily recognized by boiling the storax with alcohol, -and after washing treating with dilute chromic acid, to which a small -quantity of sulphuric acid has been added. - -Liquid storax was already used for fumigating purposes by the ancient -Greeks and Jews, and it forms to-day a constituent of fumigating -pastilles, essences, etc. Storax tincture furthermore possesses the -property of giving more constancy to scents resembling it. Piesse says, -in regard to the odor of liquid storax, that it combines the agreeable -with the disagreeable, it possessing partially an odor similar to that -of the tuberose and partially one reminding of coal-tar oil. However, -it possesses this disagreeable odor only in a concentrated state; when -finely divided or diluted, it diffuses a very agreeable perfume. - -Under the name _American storax_, _white Peru balsam_, _white Indian -balsam_ or _liquid ambar_ is found in commerce a product similar -to storax, which is derived from _Liquidambar styraciflua, L._, a -tree indigenous to Mexico and Louisiana. This balsam forms a clear, -transparent, brownish-yellow, semi-fluid mass. It has a storax-like -odor, and a sharp and pungent taste. It is only partially soluble in -alcohol, specifically lighter than water, and shows an acid reaction. -It is said to consist of 24 per cent. styracin, 1 per cent. benzoic -acid, volatile oil, etc. It is sometimes used for fumigating purposes, -but chiefly serves for the adulteration of Tolu balsam. - -_Myrrh_ (_Gummi-resina myrrha_, _Gummi myrrha_) is a gum resin, the -produce of _Balsamodendron Ehrenbergianum, Berg_, and, perhaps, also -of _Balsamodendron Myrrha, Nees_. The first-named tree is found in -the countries bordering on the Red Sea, and extends into Africa to -the Somali Coast, where the principal supply of myrrh is collected. -The gum-resin exudes naturally as a white oil-like mass, which, after -hardening, whereby it becomes considerably darker, is collected by the -natives and brought chiefly to Berbera, a small seaport opposite Aden, -to be exchanged for English and Indian goods. From there, by way of -Aden and Bombay, it reaches the European market. In Bombay the first -sorting takes place, which is, however, superficial, and hence has to -be repeated in Europe (London). According to Parker, ten different -resins are admixed with myrrh, especially bdellium resins. - -In commerce _Myrrha electa_ and _Myrrha vulgaris_ or _in sortis_ are -distinguished. _Myrrha electa_, the best quality, occurs in pieces of -irregular form and variable sizes, consisting of tears--either distinct -or agglomerated--usually covered with a fine powder or dust. The -surface is seldom smooth, but generally rough or granular. The color -varies, being pale reddish-yellow, red, or reddish-brown. The fracture -is conchoidal, seldom smooth, but rather granular, rough, of a fatty -lustre, and sometimes shows whitish striæ or veins, or opalesces like -flint. The fractured edges are more or less translucent; thin disks -or splinters are translucent or transparent. The specific gravity is, -according to Hager, 1.195 to 1.205, and according to Ruickholdt, 1.12 -to 1.18. A _Myrrha electa_ is the better, the more fragile, friable, -and paler in color it is, and the more rapidly it ignites and burns -with a yellow, sooty flame. Poorer qualities may be recognized by the -dark-brown color and dirty appearance. Myrrh is with difficulty rubbed -to a fine powder, this being possible only after drying, which must, -however, be done at a very moderate heat in order to prevent loss of -volatile oil. - -According to Hager, myrrh consists in 100 parts of about 2.5 parts -volatile oil (myrrhol), 25 to 35 parts resin (myrrhin), 55 to 65 parts -gum soluble in water, 3 to 8 parts salts, impurities, and water. Water -forms with myrrh an emulsion, and dissolves the gum. The resinous -constituents are dissolved by spirit of wine. - -The gum, which forms the portion of the myrrh soluble in water, -but insoluble in alcohol, and amounts to from 57 to 59 per cent., -is, according to Oscar Koehler, a hydrocarbon of the formula -C_{6}H_{10}O_{5}. The portion soluble in alcohol is, according to -the same chemist, a mixture of various resins, an indifferent soft -resin of the formula C_{26}H_{34}O_{5}, soluble in alcohol and ether, -forming the greater portion of it. There are further present two resin -acids, one of which has to be considered a bibasic acid of composition -C_{12}H_{16}O_{8}, and the other as a monobasic acid of the formula -C_{26}H_{32}O_{9}. The principal constituent of the volatile oil -of which, according to Koehler, 7 to 8 per cent. is present, while -Ruickholdt formerly found only 2.18 per cent. corresponds to the -formula C_{10}H_{14}O. The volatile oil is laevorotatory, and when -diluted with bisulphide of carbon becomes, according to Flückiger, -violet by the action of bromine. An extract of myrrh, prepared with -bisulphide of carbon, gives the same reaction with bromine vapor. -Hydrochloric or nitric acid also colors myrrh violet, which also -applies to the volatile oil. - -Petroleum-ether should, at the utmost, take up 6 per cent. of the -myrrh, and the extract must be colorless. - -Myrrh is frequently contaminated with bark, which forms either a film -of cork as thick as paper or a crust of a fibrous and, at the same -time, brittle nature. Sand or small pebbles are also frequently mixed -with the myrrh. Other varieties of gum or gum-resin, which considerably -decrease the value of the product, are often found in the commercial -article, the inferior qualities especially being adulterated and -mixed with dark pieces of Suakim gum, gum of the plum or cherry tree, -bdellium, and similar substances, which are partially moistened with -myrrh tincture, and scattered over with myrrh powder. Adulteration -with gum-arabic, gum of the plum or cherry tree, which are coated -with alcoholic myrrh solution, is recognized by the paler lustre, -greater transparency, and mucilaginous taste. Pieces of resin melt on -heating, while myrrh only swells up. Bdellium is detected by the dark -or black-brown color, toughness, less bitter taste, and by crackling -and spitting when held in the flame of a candle, as well as by the -reaction of myrrh with nitric acid discovered by Bonastre. By mixing -5 cubic centimeters of alcoholic myrrh tincture with 5 to 10 drops of -fuming nitric acid, a rose-color coloration passing into red results. -Parker gives the following method for testing myrrh: Prepare a tincture -of 1 part myrrh and 6 parts spirit of wine. Saturate with this tincture -white filtering paper, allow it to drain off, and then wrap it around -a glass rod moistened with nitric acid of 1.42 specific gravity. With -genuine myrrh the paper immediately becomes deep yellow-brown and then -black, while the edges of the paper strip appear dark purple-red. -When a few drops of the tincture of myrrh are allowed to dry in, a -transparent residue remains behind. The tinctures of spurious articles -(with the exception of bissabol) give turbid residues. - -Myrrh was already in Moses's time an article used in the sacrifices -of the Israelites. It seems to have been made use of by Democrates. -Dioscorides enumerates eight varieties of it, and Pliny seven, which he -obtained from Abyssinia. Herodotus and Diodorus Siculus mention Arabia -as the home of the myrrh tree. - -In perfumery, myrrh is chiefly used for dentifrices and fumigating -pastilles and essences. - -_Opopanax_ is the inspissated juice of the root of _Opoponax Chironium, -Koch_, or _Ferula Opoponax, L._ It forms grains or lumps of a -red-yellow or brown color, and has a fracture of a waxy lustre. It can -be rubbed to a gold-yellow powder. It has a strong and peculiar odor, -and a very bitter and balsamic taste. With water it forms an emulsion, -while it is only partially soluble in spirit of wine. It contains very -little volatile oil, and a resin which melts at 212° F., and is soluble -in ether and aqueous alkalies. It further contains gum, organic and -inorganic salts, and foreign admixtures. Opopanax is but little used in -perfumery. For _Extraits_ the opopanax oil is better adapted than the -tincture prepared from the gum, the latter coloring the _Extrait_ dark. - -_Olibanum or Frankincense_ is the inspissated juice of various -varieties of _Boswellia_, partially indigenous to Africa and partially -to Asia. The pure pieces are pale yellow, seldom reddish, transparent, -or opaque, brittle, covered with a mealy coating and of a splintery -fracture. The specific gravity of olibanum is 1.22; its odor is -slightly balsamic, and its taste bitter and pungent. It melts only -incompletely when exposed to heat, diffusing an agreeable odor. It -consists in 100 parts of 5 to 7 parts of a clear volatile oil, boiling -at 323.6° F., and of specific gravity 0.86, 56 parts of acid resin, -and 30 to 36 parts gum, which corresponds with gum-arabic. With water -it forms a milky fluid, and is mostly dissolved by spirit of wine. -Selected olibanum (_Olibanum electum_) is the best commercial variety, -while _Olibanum naturale_, _O. in lacrymis_, and _O. in sortis_, form -darker pieces intermingled with separate paler grains, and contaminated -by pieces of bark, and wood and sand. - -Olibanum is only adulterated with sandarac and naturally exuded pine -resin, inspissated to tears by exposure to the air. The former is -recognized by the fracture being glassy and transparent, and the latter -by completely dissolving to a clear solution in spirit of wine. - -Olibanum serves as an addition to fumigating pastilles, etc. - -_Sandarac_ is the resin exuding from the bark of _Thuja articulata, -Desf._, or _Callitris quadrivalvis, Vent._, which grows in Barbary. It -forms pale yellow, transparent, brittle grains with a glassy fracture, -which have a specific gravity of 1.06 to 1.09 and fuse readily. Its -odor is slightly balsamic and its taste somewhat bitter. Sandarac -softens at 212° F. and melts at 275° F. It dissolves in hot absolute -alcohol, ether, and amyl alcohol, is less soluble in chloroform, -petroleum-ether, and volatile oils, and insoluble in benzol. In 90 -per cent. alcohol ⅘ of it dissolve; the term _sandaracin_ has been -applied to the insoluble portion. According to Unverdorben, sandarac -consists of three different resins. It is sometimes employed in -fumigating pastilles. CHAPTER VI. - -PERFUME-SUBSTANCES FROM THE ANIMAL KINGDOM. - - -Musk is a peculiar concrete secretion obtained from _Moschus -mochiferus, L._, an animal bearing a close resemblance to the deer -in shape and size, and indigenous to the high plateaus of Asia. The -musk is contained in an oval, hairy, projecting sac, found only in the -male, situated between the umbilicus and the prepuce. It is from 2 to 3 -inches long and from 1 to 2 broad. - -In commerce, several varieties of musk are distinguished, the principal -ones, however, being Tonkin and Kabardin musk. - -_Tonkin_, _Thibet_, or _Oriental musk_, _Yunnan musk_ (_Moschus -tonquinensis_, or _orientalis_, or _transgangetanus_) is the best -variety. It comes from China, Tonkin, and Thibet. It consists of sacs -of a puffed-up appearance, more roundish than longish, varying in -size, being at the utmost 1.77 inches long, up to 1.57 inches broad -and 0.59 to 1.18 inches thick, and weighing from 8.46 drachms to 1 -oz. 9.39 drachms each. The hairy side of the sac is concave and the -other flat. Fig. 21 shows an unshorn Tonkin musk sac of medium size -from the concave or hairy side and Fig. 22 the same from the side. The -envelop of the sac consists of a double skin, the outer skin being -gray-brown. One side of the sac is covered with stiff, yellowish hair -with red-brown points, generally cut short. The original packages, -containing usually 24 sacs each, consist of longish, four-cornered -boxes lined with lead-foil and covered outside with some silken stuff. -Each sac is separately wrapped in tissue paper. The musk-substance -appears as a dark red to black-brown mass intermingled with hair, and -forming roundish grains. The odor is penetrating and the taste bitter. - - [Illustration: FIG. 21.] - - [Illustration: FIG. 22.] - - [Illustration: FIG. 23.] - -_Kabardin_, _Siberian_, or _Russian musk_ (_Moschus sibirius_, or -_cabardinicus_) is a cheaper variety of an inferior quality, which is -brought from Mongolia and Siberia. The sacs (Fig. 23) are longish, -generally pear-shaped, flatter in proportion to their longitudinal and -latitudinal dimensions, and not of a puffed-up appearance, the surface -being frequently even shrivelled or wrinkled. The outer skin is denser -and harder, and on the convex side covered with longer hair (up to 0.9 -inch long), of nearly a silver or brownish color. Towards the edge of -the sac the hairs are, however, frequently so trimmed and shorn as to -give the sac a resemblance to the Tonkin article. The musk-substance -inclosed in the sac amounts to from 8.46 drachms to 1 oz. It is -somewhat paler, more brown or yellow-brown, soft, almost unctuous, when -fresh, but after storing, solid or granular-pulverulent, like ground, -burnt coffee. The odor is weak, offensive, more urinose, resembling -that of castor, or horse sweat. - -_Moschus ex vesicis_ is said to be the musk taken from Tonkin sacs. -As a rule, however, it consists of a mixture of musk substance taken -from good sacs which present a bad appearance, or have been torn, and -from sacs of an inferior quality, frequently adulterated with foreign -substances, such as dried blood, dung of birds, weathered bicarbonate -of soda, etc. - -To open a musk sac, cut it with a sharp penknife around where the -hairless side joints the hairy side, and empty it by scraping it out -upon a sheet of paper. The membranes and hair are then removed by means -of pincers. - -The musk-substance of the Tonkin sacs is generally a heavy, dry-feeling -mass; it is partially intermingled with and partially enveloped by -small, thin, soft, brown, somewhat transparent membranes and frequently -mixed with small hair. It is partially loose and crummy, and partially -consists of various lumps or grains of the size of a mustard seed to -that of a pea, which are more or less roundish, more seldom angular, -softer or harder (but can always be readily cut), of a fatty lustre and -black-brown or dark-red color. In fresh sacs, the mass is frequently -soft, and, when bruised, somewhat smeary, but never unctuous. On -rubbing, it becomes paler in color, and glistening hair-like, paler, -gray or whitishyellow particles, sometimes of a crystalline texture, -appear. The odor of the musk substance is peculiar, strong, and very -constant; it is agreeable only when much diluted. - -Musk is not a substance of a constant chemical and physical -constitution, the reason for this being found in the age and the -different foods of the musk animal, the season in which it is killed, -and the degree of dryness of the musk-substance. Water dissolves ¾ -of good musk and 90 per cent. alcohol ½. The alcoholic solution is -not precipitated by water. Musk further contains fat-like substances, -wax, gall-substances (together 10 to 12 per cent.), glue-substances -and albumen (6 to 9 per cent.), traces of lactic and butyric acids, -phosphates, sulphates and hydrochlorates of the alkalies and alkaline -earths, frequently strong traces of ammonium carbonate and a volatile -oil, further moisture, humus-substance, and fibrous matter. - -Musk, when dried, has a weak odor, which gradually becomes stronger on -moistening. There are several substances which destroy the musk odor, -especially bitter almonds, camphor, sulphur, acids and sulphates. The -odor adhering to a mortar in which musk has been rubbed can best be -removed by pounding bitter almonds in it. - -Since, on account of the high price of musk, the musk animal is much -hunted, there is a possibility of it becoming in time extinct. For this -reason a substitute has been long searched for, and is believed to have -been found, especially, in the American musk-rat (_Fiber zibethicus_), -which is chiefly hunted for its skin. In this animal the musk is found -in two small sacs located between the anus and generative organs, -and is emitted when the animal becomes excited. According to R. S. -Cristiani, this musk is invaluable for the toilet soap industry of -America, it being nearly as good and strong as genuine musk. Cristiani -has formerly used much of it for scenting soaps, powders, etc., but -does not recommend it for essences. When used for soaps, some time is -required for the odor to become refined, and if a piece of soap scented -with it is stored for a few months, it would, according to Cristiani's -assertion, be difficult even for an expert perfumer to distinguish the -odor from that of genuine Tonkin musk. - -As possible substitutes for the musk deer may further be mentioned -a species of rat indigenous to the West Indies, and an antelope of -North Africa. It is also said that musk derived from the Mississippi -alligator has been brought into commerce. The sacs are said to -be small, the odor somewhat different from that of genuine musk, -resembling that of civet, but suitable for perfuming purposes. - -A process for the preparation of _artificial musk_ has been patented -by Dr. Baur, of Gispersleben. According to the specification, toluol -is mixed with the halogen compounds of butane and boiled with the -addition of aluminium chloride or aluminium bromide. The product of the -reaction is mixed with water and distilled with steam. The fraction -passing over between 338° and 392° F. is caught and treated with fuming -nitric acid and fuming sulphuric acid. The product obtained is washed -with water and alcohol, and crystallized. The artificial musk forms an -amorphous white powder, which in time becomes yellow. It is readily -soluble in 90 per cent. alcohol, but from solutions in weaker alcohol -it again crystallizes out at a cool temperature. The odor becomes very -pronounced after the addition of 5 drops of ammonia to 1 pound of a one -per cent. solution. - -This artificial product having been in existence but for a short -time, it is not possible to come to a final conclusion as to its -availability. However, its odor differs essentially from that of the -genuine article, and it can scarcely be employed for fine extracts; -if low enough in price it might, however, be suitable for soaps and -cheaper perfumes. - -Musk is very much adulterated, the Chinese being adepts in this -sophistication. Dried blood, on account of its resemblance to musk, -is among the most common adulterations, but, besides this, sand, iron -filings, hair, the dung of birds, wax, asphaltum, and many other -substances are introduced. They are mixed with a small portion of -musk, the powerful odor of which is communicated to the entire mass, -and renders the discovery of the fraud sometimes difficult. The bags -containing the musk should have the characteristics before described -as belonging to the natural sac, and present no sign of having been -opened. One of the grossest frauds, which is also perpetrated in -Europe, consists, according to Hager, in perforating the musk sac with -a needle, placing it in strong rum or weak spirit of wine, and, after -pressing it with the fingers, washing with spirit of wine and drying -in the air. By this means a tincture suitable for perfuming purposes -is obtained, while the musk-substance is increased in weight by the -absorption of moisture. Sacs thus treated are, however, readily -recognized, they being, after drying, gnarled and uneven. - -Good musk-sacs should yield from 50 to 60 per cent. of musk. An -admixture of blood is detected by the musk acquiring a putrid odor -when moistened with water. The presence of pieces of metal, pebbles, -resin, etc., is recognized by the naked eye or with the assistance of -a magnifying glass. The microscope reveals, in pure musk, white and -brownish, irregularly-formed grains, cells, oil drops, and, generally, -also fungoid threads. Genuine musk burns with a white flame and leaves -a gray ash, which should not amount to more than from 5 to 8 per cent. - -In perfumery musk is used for soap, sachet powders, and extracts. By -itself it is, however, scarcely employed, not even for the so-called -musk soaps or musk extracts. It is chiefly valued by the perfumer for -its property of rendering other perfumes used in combination with it -more durable and bringing out their scent. For scenting soaps the -musk must first be prepared. If to be used for milled soaps, it is -triturated in a mortar with clear sugar, while for cold stirred soaps, -weak potash lye of at the utmost 3° to 5° Bé. is poured over it. Weak -lye makes the odor more pronounced, while strong lye destroys it. - -_Civet_ (_zibethum_) is derived from two animals of the genus -_Viverra_. The actual civet cat (_Viverra civetta, L._) lives in the -hottest parts of Africa from the Guinea Coast and the Senegal to -Abyssinia, where it is carefully bred for its civet. The product is -also obtained from _Viverra zibetha, L._, indigenous to the Moluccas -and Philippines. The civet is secreted in a cavity between the anus -and the external genitals, and is scraped out with a spoon. It is -semi-liquid, unctuous, yellowish, becoming brown and thicker by -exposure to the air, of a bitter, disagreeable, fatty taste, and of a -peculiar, urinose, disagreeable odor, resembling that of musk which -becomes agreeable only when much diluted and mixed with other perfumes. -When ignited it burns with a bright flame, leaving behind 3 to 4 per -cent. of ash. It is insoluble in water; in spirit of wine it partially -dissolves with difficulty, and with greater ease in warm ether and in -chloroform. It should form a homogeneous, non-crumbling mass. According -to M. Boutron Chalard, it contains free ammonia, stearin, olein, mucus, -resin, a yellow coloring substance, salts, and a volatile oil, the -latter giving the odor to it. In perfumery, civet is chiefly used as an -addition to other perfumes in order to strengthen them and make them -more constant. It is also employed for perfuming fine leather articles. - -_Castor_ or _castoreum_ is a peculiar concrete substance obtained -from _Castor fiber_ or the beaver. In both sexes between the anus -and external genitals are two pear-shaped sac-like follicles (Fig. -24) united at their thin ends. The follicles contain, when fresh, a -semi-liquid substance which becomes more solid by drying. The castor -occurring in commerce is generally dried by smoke. - - [Illustration: FIG. 24.] - -In commerce two principal varieties are distinguished: Siberian or -Russian and Canadian, English or American castor, the first being the -most valuable. The length of a Siberian sac varies between 2.36 and -4.72 inches, the width between 0.98 and 2.55 inches, and the thickness -between 0.78 and 1.57 inches; it weighs from 1.76 to 8.81 ozs. One of -the sacs is generally somewhat smaller than the other. The exterior -skin of the sac is almost smooth and, in a dry state, dark brown; the -interior is dirty yellow, intermixed with a dense cellular tissue, -which envelops the castor-substance and is grown together with it. In a -dried state, the latter is dark brown, without lustre, almost friable, -of a very strong, peculiar odor, and a pungent, somewhat bitter, -aromatic taste. - -The sacs of Canadian castor are smaller than the Siberian, they being -at the utmost 3.15 inches long, 0.98 inch thick, and darker and -uneven. The interior mass is resinous, hard, with a lustrous fracture, -red-brown, and can be readily pulverized. The odor is weaker, somewhat -musty and ammoniacal, and the taste more bitter and less pungent than -that of the Siberian castor. - -Castor is much adulterated--pebbles, pieces of lead, dried blood, -etc., being frequently found in the sacs. These frauds can generally -be detected in cutting the sac open. Spurious sacs are said to be -frequently found among the genuine sacs of Canadian castor. These -spurious sacs are prepared by drying a mixture of castor, resin, -dragons' blood, etc., in the scrotum of goats. - -In perfumery, castor is now very seldom used, the perfumers preferring -musk and civet, which, certainly, give a somewhat different scent. - -_Ambergris_ is a fatty, waxy substance, often found floating on the sea -on the coasts of Arabia, Madagascar, Japan, etc. It is also found in -the cæcum of the sperm whale (_Physetus macrocephalus, Schow_), and -is supposed by some to be a morbid secretion in the urinary bladder. -According to Mr. Beale, it merely consists of the indurated fæces of -the animal, perhaps somewhat altered by disease. It has a gray-white -color, often with a black streak and a slight agreeable odor, like -that of benzoin, which becomes more pronounced on heating. When held -for some time in the hand it becomes soft and flexible. It melts at -the temperature of boiling water, and, when more strongly heated, -volatilizes in the form of a white vapor, leaving but slight traces -of ash behind. Its specific gravity is 0.8 to 0.9. It is insoluble in -water, sparingly soluble in cold spirit of wine, and more readily so -in hot spirit of wine, ether and volatile and fat oils. It is almost -completely soluble in absolute alcohol. Though ambergris crumbles -readily, it can only with difficulty be converted into coarse powder. -With the finger it can be polished like hard soda-soap. - -The principal constituent of ambergris is ambrin or ambrein, a -non-saponifiable fat, which, from a saturated alcoholic solution of -ambergris, crystallizes, after standing for some time, in the form -of verrucose, whitish or lustrous acicular crystals. According to -John, ambergris consists of 85 per cent. ambrin, 12.5 per cent. sweet -balsamic extract, further benzoic acid, sodium chloride, and 1.5 per -cent. insoluble brown residue. When distilled with water, ambergris -yields 13 per cent. of a volatile oil having an agreeable odor. A -red-hot iron wire readily penetrates ambergris, and from the hole thus -made flows an oily liquid of a strong and agreeable odor. - -On account of its high price, ambergris is frequently adulterated, the -commercial article being often nothing but an artificial mixture of -benzoin, olibanum, wax, and flour, with other substances, perfumed with -musk. Such adulterations are detected by the appearance, proportions -of solubility, nature of the fracture and the content of ash. A small -quantity of pure ambergris, exposed to heat, melts without forming -bubbles or scum. It is easily punctured with a heated needle, which, -when withdrawn, should come out clean and without anything adhering -to it, and the characteristic odor of ambergris should be immediately -evolved. The surface should be rugged, that with a smooth and uniform -surface being generally factitious. - -In perfumery, ambergris is not so much used on account of its agreeable -odor, but rather to make the perfumes more constant. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - -ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. - - -In speaking of the volatile oils used in perfumery, two artificial -perfume-materials, artificial oils of bitter almonds and wintergreen -have already been mentioned. There can be no doubt that when the -chemical construction of volatile oils is better known, chemistry -will succeed in preparing still more such combinations, valuable for -perfumery, or in converting cheap volatile oils into more valuable -ones, as has, for instance, been done by Bouchardat and Lafont, who -have successfully converted oil of turpentine into oil of lemons. These -chemists rectified French oil of turpentine at exactly 311° to 314.6° -F., dissolved in the distillate, which amounted to 120 grammes, an -equal quantity (120 grammes) of glacial acetic acid, cooled the mixture -and then carefully added, so that the temperature never exceeded 104° -F., 88 grammes of crystallized chromic acid dissolved in a sufficient -quantity of acetic acid. Notwithstanding that the greater portion of -the oil of turpentine remained unoxidized, a thorough reaction took -place, and the product of decomposition proved to be a hydrocarbon, -boiling at from 345.2° to 352.4° F., to which Bouchardat and Lafont -have applied the term "terpilene." The properties of this hydrocarbon, -especially its boiling point, corresponded with those of oil of lemons, -its odor also resembling that of the latter, but it contained about -one-sixth cymol which it was impossible to remove. Though thus far this -artificial oil of lemons is of no importance for perfumery, it is of -interest as showing the possibility of converting one volatile oil into -another. - -The artificial musk, spoken of under "Musk," cannot be classed with the -previously-mentioned artificial perfumed-materials. The odoriferous -principle of the natural and artificial musk have nothing in common, -the odor depending not on a common chemical combination. - -Besides the artificial perfume-materials already mentioned, but a -few others are employed in perfumery, viz: _Cumarin_, _heliotropin_, -_vanillin_, and _nitrobenzol_, or _oil of mirbane_. Another series of -artificial perfume-materials, the so-called fruit ethers, have also -been recommended for perfumery purposes. Although such products are -sometimes used, their employment is not advisable, since they produce -an irritating effect upon the bronchial tubes and respiratory organs, -and frequently cause headache. - -_Cumarin._--The agreeable odor of new-mown hay is chiefly due to the -sweet-scented vernal grass (_Anthoxanthum odoratum, L._). This grass -contains an odoriferous substance, the _cumarin_. The latter is also -found in many other plants; for instance, in the tonka bean (the seeds -of _Dipterix odorata_), in the sweet woodruff (_Asperula odorata_), -and, combined with melilotic acid, in the melilot (_Melilotus -officinalis, Descr._). - -Cumarin forms small, colorless crystals of a silky lustre. It is very -hard, cracks between the teeth, shows a smooth fracture, and sinks in -water. It has a very agreeable aromatic odor, which, on rubbing the -substance with the fingers, becomes like that of oil of bitter almonds, -and has a bitter, warm, and pungent taste. When pure it melts at 152.6° -F., but when containing fat, like that separated from tonka beans, at -from 104° to 122° F. Its boiling point lies at 554° F.; it volatilizes, -however, at far lower temperatures, diffusing an odor resembling that -of oil of bitter almonds, and sublimating in white needles. It is -soluble in alcohol, ether, acetic acid, fat, and volatile oils. Of cold -water (59° F.) 400 parts are, according to Buchner, required for its -solution, but of boiling water only 45 parts. - -Tonka beans are the ripe seeds of _Dipterix odorata_. They are much -used in perfumery on account of their content of cumarin, and formerly -constituted the initial point for its manufacture. In commerce two -varieties are distinguished, viz., _Dutch tonka beans_, derived from -_Dipterix odorata, Willd._, indigenous to the forests of Guiana, -and _English tonka beans_, from _Dipterix oppositifolia, Willd._, -indigenous to Cayenne. - -The Dutch tonka bean is 1.18 to 1.57 inches long, 0.39 to O.59 inch -wide, and O.27 to O.43 inch thick. It is generally slightly curved, -provided under the point with the hilum, and covered with a thin, -fragile, brown-black or black skin of a fatty lustre, upon which small -crystals of cumarin are generally found, so that it appears coated, -especially in the wrinkles, with a whitish dust. The kernel consists -of two yellow-brownish oleiferous catyledons, between which layers of -cumarin are generally found. The odor is agreeable, resembling that of -melilot, and the taste aromatic bitter. Dutch tonka beans contain fat, -sugar, malic acid, and malate of lime; further, starch, gum, and 1 to -5 per cent. of cumarin (C_{9}H_{6}O_{2}). The English tonka beans are -smaller, white-yellowish inside, nearly black outside, and of inferior -quality to the Dutch beans. - -From tonka beans, cumarin may be obtained by two different methods. -One method consists in repeatedly extracting the bruised beans with -spirit of wine, distilling the latter off from the extract, and mixing -the residue with cold water, whereby cumarin contaminated with fat -is precipitated. To remove the fat, bring the whole to the boiling -point, filter the hot solution through a moist filter upon which the -fat is retained, and allow to cool, whereby the greater portion of the -cumarin crystallizes out; the remaining small portion is obtained by -evaporating the mother-lye. - -According to the other method, the bruised tonka beans are distilled -with water. After 24 hours the greater portion of the cumarin separates -in a crystalline form. The residue remaining in solution can be -withdrawn from the water by shaking with petroleum-ether and subsequent -evaporation of the solvent. From one pound of good tonka beans, up to 4 -drachms of cumarin may be obtained. - -Cumarin is sometimes also obtained by purifying by recrystallization of -the débris found in the original boxes of tonka beans, which chiefly -consists of cumarin. - -Perkin has recently succeeded in artificially preparing cumarin from -salicylic acid. By boiling the sodium salt of the latter in acetic -anhydride for a few minutes and then pouring into water, an oil-like -body is separated, whilst sodium acetate passes into solution. The -former is a mixture of acetic anhydride, salicylic acid and cumarin; -in distilling, the latter passes over last (at 554° F.), and congeals -in the receiver to a crystalline mass. - -Cumarin is now synthetically prepared by several firms, that brought -into the market by Schimmel & Co., of Leipsic, especially being of -excellent quality. Although artificial cumarin is considerably lower -in price than that obtained from tonka beans, most perfumers still -prefer the extract from tonka beans prepared by themselves. There is, -however, no good reason for this, since a change in the respective -receipts for perfumes presents no difficulties, 8.46 drachms of cumarin -corresponding to 2.2 lbs. of best tonka beans. - -_Heliotropin_ or _piperonal_ is of great importance in the manufacture -of perfumes. It forms small, colorless prismatic crystals, which have -an agreeable odor of héliotrope. Upon the tongue heliotropin produces -the same sensation as oil of peppermint under the same conditions, the -sensation being, however, more lasting. It melts at about 104° F., and -volatilizes at a higher temperature without leaving a residue. It is -soluble in alcohol and ether, and insoluble in cold water; in hot water -it melts to an oily liquid which floats upon the water. - -Exposed to the action of heat and air, heliotropin acquires an uncomely -appearance, balls together and, under very unfavorable circumstances, -turns brown. It is then entirely decomposed and useless, and, hence, -should be kept in summer in as cool a place as possible. A temperature -of 95° F. has already an injurious effect upon the perfume, and it is -best not to buy it at all in the hot summer months. To preserve the -perfume in its entire freshness, it is advisable for consumers in hot -climates to at once dissolve the heliotropin in alcohol and to keep the -solution in a cool place. - -Pepper serves as the initial point for heliotropin or piperonal, the -white variety being the best for the purpose. To obtain piperine, -contained in varying qualities (7 to 9 per cent.) in pepper, the -latter is repeatedly extracted with boiling alcohol. The extract is -then evaporated to one-third its volume, or the greater portion of the -alcohol is distilled off, and the resinous mass, obtained after the -addition of water, is repeatedly washed in water with the addition of a -small quantity of potash or soda lye, dissolved in alcohol and purified -by repeated recrystallization. To convert the white-yellow piperine -thus obtained into potassium piperate it is, together with equal -parts of potassium hydroxide and 5 to 6 parts of alcohol, kept gently -boiling for 24 hours in a well-closed flask provided with an ascending -Liebig cooler. A capacious flask should be used, as the mass pounds -quite vigorously. After cooling, the precipitate, which is obtained -in yellowish, lustrous lamina, is separated through a filter from the -dark-brown mother-lye, washed with cold alcohol and several times -recrystallized from hot water. A further discoloration may be effected -by the addition of animal charcoal. - -The potassium piperate thus obtained forms nearly colorless prisms in -verucose groups, which, however, turn yellow when exposed to light. -By boiling the alcoholic mother-lye with ⅓ of the previously used -potash-lye, further small quantities of potassium piperate may be -obtained. - -To obtain piperonal from the potassium piperate, dissolve 1 part of -the latter in 40 to 50 parts of hot water, and then slowly introduce, -with constant stirring, a solution of 2 parts potassium permanganate -in 50 parts of water. This precaution is absolutely necessary, as -otherwise the piperonal formed would be partially further oxidized and -lost. The paste-like mass formed is passed, while still hot, through a -straining cloth, and the residue repeatedly washed with boiling water -until it shows nothing more of the characteristic odor of héliotrope. -The wash-waters are combined with the first filtrate, and subjected to -distillation over a free fire. - -The first distillates are richest in piperonal, it generally separating -already in the cooler. The fractionally caught distillate is allowed -to stand one or two days in as cool a place as possible, whereby the -greater portion of the piperonal separates in a crystalline form or in -fine lamina. To obtain the piperonal still remaining dissolved in the -water, the mother-lye, after the separation of the crystals through a -filter, may be repeatedly agitated with ether, whereby the piperonal -dissolves in the ether. The latter is carefully distilled off at as -low a temperature as possible (104° to 122° F.) in the water-bath or -allowed naturally to evaporate. - -_Vanillin._--Vanilla is the not entirely ripe, pod-like, capsular -fruit (wrongly called pod), of a tropical orchid (_Vanilla planifolia, -Andrews_), which is cultivated in Mexico, the West Indies, and South -America. It is extensively used for flavoring, and its odoriferous -substance is highly valued in perfumery. The cross-section of the -capsule is thick and fleshy, filled with very small, black, lustrous -seeds stuck together by a gummy balsam with which they are coated. The -capsule has a sourish taste and has no value, the seeds, or rather -the balsam enveloping the seeds, being the substance on which the -odor and taste of vanilla depend. When the vanilla fruit becomes ripe, -the capsule opens and empties its content of seeds in the form of a -balsam-like mass. - -The lustrous black-brown surface of vanilla is frequently coated with -white, delicate crystals, which were formerly taken for benzoic acid. -Bley and Vee first recognized them as a peculiar substance, which was -further examined by Gobley and Stokkebye. This substance, to which -Gobley applied the term _vanillin_, is the chief odoriferous substance -of vanilla. It is deposited upon the vanilla-crystals, when the latter -are densely and closely packed together and for some time exposed to -a heat of about 77° F. Of vanillin, vanilla contains 1.5 to 2.75 per -cent.; the Mexican variety containing 1.69 to 1.32 per cent., the -Bourbon No. I, 2.48 to 1.91 per cent., Bourbon No. II, 1.55 to 0.75 per -cent., and the Java, 2.75 to 1.56 per cent. It is singular, that the -highly valued Mexican vanilla has, generally speaking, a lower content -of vanillin than the other varieties. - -At present, vanillin is prepared artificially. Tiemann and Harmann -first showed that by the oxidation of coniferin, a glucoside occurring -in the cambial sap of the _Coniferæ_, a product, perfectly identical -with the vanillin prepared from vanilla, is obtained. The coniferin -is obtained by barking the pine or silver fir, scraping together the -sap under the bark together with a portion of the liber and pouring -it into a vessel. The sap is then pressed off, boiled to separate -the albumin, filtered, evaporated to one-fifth its volume, and set -aside to crystallize. One hundred quarts of sap are said to yield -from 1 to 2 pounds of coniferin-crystals. By now allowing an aqueous -coniferin-solution to run into a heated mixture of 10 parts potassium -bichromate, 15 parts concentrated sulphuric acid, and 80 parts water, -and heating for 3 hours in a flask with back-flow cooler, a liquid -is obtained from which ether takes up a yellow oil. After treating -the latter with animal charcoal, dissolving in ether and evaporating -the latter, there remain colorless, acicular crystals of the odor and -taste of vanilla. These crystals consist of vanillin contaminated with -some vanillic acid. To separate the latter, purify with acid sodium -sulphite and recrystallize. After this operation, vanillin represents a -nearly white crystalline powder which melts at from 176° to 177.8° F. -In this form it is brought into commerce as a complete substitute for -vanilla, 5.64 drachms of it corresponding to about 1 pound of vanilla. -A medium-sized pine tree is said to yield vanillin of the value of 80 -marks ($19.20). - -Vanillin may also be prepared by oxidation from eugenol. Oil of cloves -is diluted with three times its volume of ether and agitated with -weak caustic potash solution to fix the eugenol on the potash. By -acidulating the alkaline solution and shaking with ether, the eugenol -is collected. After distilling off the ether, the eugenol is converted -with acetic anhydride into aceteugol, and the latter oxidized with -dilute, moderately-warmed potassium permanganate solution. The filtrate -is made slightly alkaline, concentrated, then compounded with acid and -the vanillin extracted with ether. - -Vanillin (C_{8}H_{8}O_{3}) forms small colorless prisms of a strong -vanilla odor, a warm, vanilla taste, and an acid reaction. It is -readily soluble in hot water, alcohol, ether, chloroform, fat and -volatile oils, as well as in solutions of caustic alkalies and alkaline -carbonates. It melts when heated to from 176° to 177.8° F.; at a higher -temperature it sublimates without leaving a residue. - -According to a notice published in the "Deutsch-Amerikanischen -Apotheker Zeitung," vanillin adulterated with benzoic acid has occurred -in the United States. A sample subjected to examination is said to -have been nothing but benzoic acid perfumed with vanillin. Such an -adulteration can be detected with the microscope, since vanillin -crystallizes in acicular crystals, and benzoic acid in lamina, which -can be readily recognized. Pure vanillin melts at 176° F., while -the melting points of such mixtures are considerably higher, it -being in one case at 249° F. By extracting such mixture with thin -sodium carbonate solution, benzoic acid passes into solution. After -neutralizing with hydrochloric acid, the filtrate yields with ferric -chloride a fawn-brown precipitate of ferric benzoate, and on adding -hydrochloric acid in excess, the benzoic acid, which dissolves -with great difficulty in cold water, is precipitated. By treating -the latter, or the ferric benzoate, with dilute sulphuric acid and -magnesium, the benzoic acid is reduced to benzaldehyde, which is -recognized by its characteristic odor of oil of bitter almonds. - -_Nitrobenzol_ is obtained by treating benzol, or a mixture of it, -with toluol and their higher homologues, with strong nitric acid, -or a mixture of nitric and sulphuric acids, washing the product of -reaction with water and soda, caustic soda or ammonia, expelling the -unaltered hydrocarbons with steam and rectifying the residue. Three -varieties distinguished by their boiling points and odor occur in -commerce. The nitrobenzol or oil of mirbane (_essence de mirbane_) is -the so-called _light nitrobenzol_, which boils at from 401° to 415° F. -The _heavier_ varieties boil at a higher temperature and have a more or -less disagreeable odor; they are used in the manufacture of aniline and -aniline colors. - -Pure oil of mirbane is pale yellow, the finest qualities being -colorless and almost as clear as water. It has an agreeable odor -resembling that of oil of bitter almonds, a specific gravity of 1.186 -to 1.2 = 25° Bé., and congeals at 37.4° F. to a crystalline mass. It is -scarcely soluble in water, sparingly so in alcohol and with difficulty -in watery spirit of wine; it is miscible in all proportions with ether, -benzine, volatile oils, and most fat oils. - -Oil of mirbane is largely manufactured in England, but the German -product is now generally preferred, it being purer and does not impart -to soap perfumed with it a yellowish tinge. The finest oil of mirbane -is prepared from pure crystallizable benzol, and again purified -by washing with potassium bichromate and sulphuric acid, and by -rectification with steam. - -Pure nitrobenzol suffers no change by boiling with soda lye, while the -poorly rectified product colors the lye yellow or brown. - -Nitrobenzol is frequently adulterated with spirit of wine, which is -recognized by shaking the oil with fat oil of almonds; in the presence -of spirit of wine a turbid mixture is formed. By shaking nitrobenzol -containing spirit of wine with an equal volume of water in a graduated -cylinder, its volume decreases. - -Oil of mirbane is much used for perfuming soaps, but even the finest -quality of it cannot replace oil of bitter almonds for fine soaps -and perfumery. Great care has to be exercised in storing, as well -as in working, nitrobenzol, it igniting very readily, and it is -also poisonous. Even the vapors, when inhaled for some time, may -produce symptoms of poisoning, which consist in the skin acquiring a -leaden color, and heavy feelings in the limbs with cold extremities, -especially the hands and feet. - - -FRUIT ETHERS. At the London Exhibition, in 1851, various products -called apple oil, pear oil, pine-apple oil, etc., were shown. They were -examined by A. W. Hofmann, and found to consist of solutions of certain -ethers in alcohol. Since then the manufacture has greatly increased and -large quantities are now brought into commerce under the name of _fruit -ethers_ or _fruit essences_. - -Fruit ethers are fluids possessing an agreeable, refreshing odor -closely resembling that of some fruits. For this reason they are -used in confectionery, in the manufacture of liqueurs and also as -a substitute for volatile oils, in the manufacture of perfumery. -Chemically, fruit ethers are combinations of an organic acid--acetic, -butyric, valerianic, etc.--with a so-called alcohol radicle, such as -ethyl and amyl. The preparation of fruit ethers being connected with -many difficulties, is seldom attempted by perfumers, especially as -products of an excellent quality can at a low rate be procured from -chemical laboratories making a specialty of their manufacture. However, -for the sake of completeness, a brief description of the fabrication of -the principal ethers used in their preparation shall here be given. - -_Acetic amyl ether_ or _amyl acetate_, C_{5}H_{11}O.C_{2}H_{3}O, is -prepared by mixing 1 part of amyl alcohol with 1 part of concentrated -sulphuric acid, and distilling the mixture with 2 parts of potassium -acetate. The distillate is washed with water, to which some carbonate -of soda has been added, and then rectified over magnesia. It forms a -colorless liquid of an agreeable fruity odor. It boils, according to -Kopp, at 280° F. and, at 59° F., its specific gravity is 0.8692. - -For use in perfumery, the ether is best prepared, according to -Fehling's directions, by heating for some time at a temperature of 212° -F. 1 part of glacial acetic acid with ½ part of sulphuric acid and -one part of amyl alcohol. By then adding water the ether is separated. -By this process distillation is avoided. - -_Acetic ethyl ether_ or _ethyl acetate_, C_{2}H_{3}O.O.C_{2}H_{5}. -Acetic ether is formed by the decomposition of sodium acetate by ethyl -sulphuric acid:-- - - SO_{2} {OC_{2}H_{5} + C_{2}H_{3}O.ONa = - {OH - └----┬-----┘ └------┬------┘ - Ethyl sulphuric Sodium acetate. - acid. - - SO_{2} {ONa + C_{2}H_{3}O.OC_{2}H_{5} - {OH - └--┬--┘ └---------┬----------┘ - Acid sodium Acetic ether. - sulphate. - -One molecule of sulphuric acid or 98 parts is mixed with one molecule -of alcohol or 46 parts, or with 1 molecule of alcohol of 90 per -cent. which contains 85.75 per cent. of absolute alcohol, hence -with 53.6 parts of alcohol, and distilled with 1 molecule or 82 -parts of anhydrous sodium acetate. Since commercial sulphuric acid -always contains 5 or 6 per cent. of water, this has to be taken into -consideration, and 105 to 106 parts of it have to be used in order -to decompose the entire quantity of sodium acetate. The crude sodium -acetate found in commerce may be used. It is nearly white and at the -utmost contaminated by traces of sulphuric acid and chlorine, which in -this case are not injurious. The crystallized salt is heated in an iron -kettle whereby it melts in its water of crystallization. With constant -stirring the water is then completely evaporated until an entirely -dry mass of salt remains behind. The latter may be quite strongly -heated without fear of destroying the acetic acid. The dried salt is -immediately powdered, passed through a medium fine sieve and kept for -use in well-closed vessels. - -On a large scale the distillation of the ether may be effected in an -iron kettle, which is provided with a well-fitting lid and connected -by a copper head with a cooling apparatus--a worm lying in cold water. -Bring into the kettle the required quantity of concentrated sulphuric -acid, add, with vigorous stirring, the alcohol and allow the mixture to -rest for 24 hours. Then throw the dry sodium acetate into the mixture, -mix it thoroughly, by stirring, with the ethyl sulphuric acid, and, -after luting all the joints of the apparatus, heat at first moderately. -Distillation proceeds quietly and uniformly, the fire being regulated -according to how the ether runs off from the worm. Such uniform -distillation is, however, only attained by the use of the sodium -acetate in the form of powder, and thoroughly mixing it with the acid. -If large pieces of the salt are present or the powdered salt balls -together, the formation of ether sometimes takes place so suddenly -that the vapors cannot condense in the cooling apparatus, but escape -violently, or if they cannot escape rapidly from the condenser, may -even burst the apparatus. The reason for this is that the larger pieces -float in the superheated acid without being saturated by it, and, when -they suddenly collapse, form a mass of ether-vapors. - -Distillation is continued until that which at last passes over is not -inflammable. With the above-mentioned proportions 88 parts of acetic -ether are formed, but as some water always passes over, distillation -need not be interrupted until the receiver contains at least 90 parts -of crude ether. - -The crude ether always contains more or less water, some alcohol, -and a small quantity of free acetic acid. With the above-mentioned -proportions, the content of alcohol can, however, be only very small. -To neutralize the acetic acid, add some burnt magnesia or shake with -carbonate of soda solution until the acid reaction disappears. For the -absorption of the water and alcohol, add as much sharply dried (not -fused) calcium chloride as the fluid will dissolve, and then let it -stand with an excess of the salt for one day. The calcium chloride -combines with the water and alcohol and separates as a heavy layer -beneath the ether. The latter is decanted off and brought into a -rectifying vessel--a copper still, heated by steam, and provided with a -cooling pipe. The ether is distilled off at a moderate heat, the last -portion, about 1/10, being caught in a special receiver, to be again -rectified at the next operation. - -According to Grossschopf, 40 lbs. of pulverized anhydrous sodium -acetate, together with a cooled mixture of 46 lbs. of concentrated -sulphuric acid and 37 lbs. of 95 per cent. alcohol, free from fusel -oil, are distilled in a copper still heated by steam. Distillation -is continued with constant stirring by means of an apparatus in the -still, until no more fluid smelling and tasting of acetic ether passes -over. The crude distillate, amounting to 55 or 56 lbs., is brought into -bottles which are filled ⅔ full. The bottles are then filled up with -water and potassium carbonate is added until the fluid, after shaking, -shows no acid reaction. The aqueous fluid beneath the ether is then -drawn off by means of a siphon, and the ether several times washed by -shaking with water and allowing to settle. Since the wash-water absorbs -a quite considerable quantity of ether, it is collected and subjected -to rectification, whereby an alcoholic acetic ether is obtained. The -ether, being freed from acetic acid and alcohol by neutralization and -washing, is brought in contact with fused calcium chloride to free it -from water, and finally rectified over magnesia. In this manner 36 to -37 lbs. of pure acetic ether are obtained. - -Acetic ether is a clear, colorless fluid of a pleasant, etheral odor. -It boils at 170.6° F., and at 59° F. its specific gravity is 0.9068. -Pure acetic ether dissolves in 11 to 12 parts of water; a content of -alcohol or the addition of water increases its solubility. Hence, its -solubility in water is a criterion of its purity. - -_Benzoic ether_ or _ethyl benzoate_, C_{7}H_{5}O.OC_{2}H_{5}, is most -readily prepared by mixing 4 parts of alcohol, 2 parts of crystallized -benzoic acid, and 1 part fuming hydrochloric acid, and for some time -heating the mixture in a flask. The benzoic acid is thereby gradually -and completely converted into ether. The fluid is mixed with water, -whereby the ether is completely separated. It is several times washed -with carbonate of soda solution, and, for the purpose of withdrawing -the last trace of free acid, distilled over lead oxide. It forms a -colorless oil of an aromatic odor, specific gravity 1.0502, and boils -at 412° F. In cold water it is insoluble. However, like all varieties -of ether, it dissolves readily in alcohol and ether. - -_Butyric ethyl ether_ or _ethyl butyrate_, C_{4}H_{7}O.OC_{2}H_{5}. The -preparation of this ether must be preceded by that of butyric acid. -The latter is obtained, according to Bensch, by dissolving 6 lbs. of -cane sugar and 8 drachms of tartaric acid in 13 quarts of hot water, -allowing the liquid to stand a few days and then adding 7 ozs. of old -rotten cheese, which has been stirred up in 4 quarts of skimmed sour -milk and 3 lbs. of finely pulverized chalk. The mixture must be kept -at a uniform temperature of from 86° to 95° F. for some weeks, from -time to time mixing it by stirring, and replacing the water lost by -evaporation. - -By the action of a ferment the sugar is first converted into lactic -acid. In 10 to 12 days the entire mass congeals to a paste of calcium -lactate. By now allowing fermentation to proceed without interruption, -it gradually enters another stage; gas bubbles consisting of carbonic -acid and hydrogen rise up, until in the course of 5 or 6 weeks the -process is finished. This is recognized by the fluid becoming quiet, -no more gas being evolved. The fluid then contains a solution of -calcium lactate, which is converted into the corresponding sodium salt -by the addition of 8 lbs. of crystallized soda. It is then filtered -and concentrated by evaporation to 5 quarts. By adding 5½ lbs. of -sulphuric acid, diluted with an equal volume of water, butyric acid is -separated as a dark-colored oily mass. - -The crude butyric acid thus obtained and freed from water by shaking -with calcium chloride, is a mixture of acetic, butyric, and capric -acids, but does not contain propionic and valerianic acids. To obtain -from it pure butyric acid, fractional distillation is required. For -manufacturing on a large scale, a copper distilling apparatus with -silver head and silver cooling pipe is used, the bulb of a thermometer -being placed in the head. In the first rectification, the receiver -is changed after the thermometer has risen to 311° F.; the portion -passing over between 311° and 329° F. is caught up by itself, and -the receiver being again changed, distillation is continued until -finished. The first distillate contains mostly acetic acid, besides -a small quantity of butyric acid, the second the greater portion of -the butyric acid besides a little acetic and capric acids, while the -third consists chiefly of capric acid. For preparing butyric ether for -technical purposes, the fraction passing over between 311° and 329° -F. is sufficiently pure. To obtain chemically pure butyric acid, the -rectification of the portion passing over between 311° and 329° F. is -in the same manner repeated, until finally a product with a constant -boiling point at 324.2° F. is obtained. - -Butyric acid fermentation proceeds more rapidly by using, instead of -rotten cheese, putrefying meat, and in place of sugar, starch paste -or mashed boiled potatoes, 1 part of meat to 4 parts of starch or a -corresponding quantity of potatoes being employed. The same products -are formed as in the preceding process, but much more rapidly, -fermentation being finished, according to Schubert, in 5 to 6 days. - -Butyric acid, C_{4}H_{7}O.OH, or C_{3}H_{7}COOH, is a liquid of a very -sour taste and odor, and at an intense cold congeals to a crystalline -mass which melts at 32° F. In a pure state it boils at 324.2° F. It is -soluble in water, but separates again if soluble salts are added to -this solution. Its specific gravity, after being completely freed from -water, is 0.974. - -Besides the normal butyric acid, there is known another one called -_isobutyric' acid_ or _dimethyl acetic acid_. It is distinguished from -the normal acid by being less soluble in water and by its boiling -point, which lies at 309.2° F. It occurs in St. John's bread or carob, -in the volatile oil from _Arnica montana_ and in croton oil. - -_Butyric ether_ is formed by mixing 2 parts of butyric acid with 2 -parts of alcohol and 1 part of sulphuric acid. The fluid is heated to -176° F., and, after being for several hours kept at that temperature, -is poured into cold water, whereby the ether separates as an oily -fluid. It is then separated from the aqueous solution, washed with -water to which some chalk has been added for the neutralization of the -free acid, and finally the water is withdrawn from the ether by, for -several days, leaving it in contact with calcium chloride. To obtain -it entirely pure, it is only necessary to distil it once. It forms a -clear, very mobile fluid of a pine-apple odor, and a specific gravity -of 0.900. It boils at 249.8° F. - -Commercial butyric ether, large quantities of which are used for the -preparation of the so-called _pine-apple ether_ or _essence_, is seldom -pure, it being generally obtained from simply rectified butyric acid. -According to another method, which is, however, not as profitable, -it is obtained by distilling butter-soap with alcohol and sulphuric -acid. For this purpose, bring 20 pounds of butter-soap, cut up in -small pieces, into a distilling apparatus, pour over it 10 pounds of -90 per cent. alcohol and heat moderately until the soap is dissolved. -Since a portion of the alcohol evaporates thereby, add 10 pounds more -of alcohol and then 20 pounds of sulphuric acid. On further heating, -a fluid of a very agreeable odor distils over, which is an alcoholic -solution of the ethers of the volatile acids found in butter. Towards -the end of the operation, in consequence of the further progress of -decomposition, a development of sulphurous acid generally takes place. -This is removed from the distillate by allowing it to remain for -several days in contact with finely-pulverized pyrolusite (peroxide -of manganese) and rectifying over burnt magnesia. In the first -distillation, the heavy volatile acids of the butter remain behind; -they are freed from the excess of sulphuric acid and the sulphate of -sodium or potassium by washing with hot water, and can be utilized in -the manufacture of soap. - -The butyric ether obtained from butter-soap is far from being pure -butyric ether, it containing, besides it, a mixture of various kinds of -ether derived from the volatile acids--caproic, capric, and caprylic -acids. However, these varieties of ether possess similar properties -to that of butyric acid; in alcoholic solutions their taste and odor -are nearly alike, and hence can be employed in this mixture for the -preparation of essences of an agreeable odor and taste. - -A suitable material for the preparation of butyric ether is also the -St. John's bread or carob, the pods of _Silequa dulcis_. Redtenbacher -established in them the occurrence of about 2 per cent. butyric acid, -which Gruenzweig later on proved to be isobutyric acid. Besides butyric -acid and other volatile acids, St. John's bread contains about 40 per -cent. of fermentable varieties of sugar, which can be utilized after -their conversion to butyric acid. For this purpose Stinde has proposed -the following process: Convert the pods together with the seeds to a -coarse powder; bring 100 lbs. of this powder into a capacious barrel -placed in a warm place, and pour sufficient water of 82.5° F. over it, -to form a thin paste; after 4 to 5 days add 24 lbs. of whiting and -await fermentation. The paste, which gradually becomes thicker, is from -time to time stirred, and, if necessary, a small quantity of lukewarm -water added. In summer fermentation is finished in six weeks, after -which the preparation of the ether is proceeded with. - -For this purpose bring the paste into a still provided with a steam -jacket; the evening before mix 36 lbs. of concentrated sulphuric acid -with 60 lbs. of alcohol of 95 per cent., and add the mixture to the -paste in the still; then lute the joints of the distilling apparatus, -and quickly introduce steam. Distillation soon commences, and, when -once introduced, is continued with a moderate admission of steam. - -The first pound of the distillate is caught by itself, and, after -changing the receiver, distillation is continued until but little -passes over, even with an increased admission of steam. Thus -an abundant yield of alcoholic butyric ether is obtained. When -distillation is finished 20 lbs. more of alcohol may be brought into -the still; the distillate obtained thereby being still rich in butyric -ether. - -The St. John's bread used should be of the best quality, free from -worms and mould, as otherwise the ether would not possess the pure, -agreeable odor characteristic of butyric ether. - -_Formic ethyl ether_, or _ethyl formate_, CHO.OC_{2}H_{5}.--This ether -is also much manufactured for the preparation of the so-called essences -which are employed for the purpose of imitating the odor of plants, -fruits, etc. It is formed by the action of formic acid upon alcohol, or -by bringing ethyl sulphuric acid, or a mixture of alcohol and sulphuric -acid, in contact with formates, or finally by bringing formic acid at -the moment of its formation in contact with alcohol. - -The most simple process is that recommended by Lorin:-- - -Into a capacious distilling apparatus connected with the cooling pipe, -so that the distillate constantly flows back, bring 1 part, by weight, -of glycerin of the consistency of syrup, add ¼ of its weight of -crystallized oxalic acid and the same quantity of alcohol of 90 to 95 -per cent. With moderate heating a vigorous development of gas soon -takes place. The oxalic acid in contact with the glycerin splits into -formic acid and carbonic acid, according to the following equation:-- - - {COOH = CHO.OH + CO_{2}. - {COOH - └--┬--┘ └----┬----┘ └--┬--┘ - Oxalic acid. Formic acid. Carbonic acid. - -The glycerine does not undergo alteration thereby. The nascent formic -acid converts the alcohol present into formic ether, water being -separated. When, after continued heating, the development of carbonic -acid abates, add the same quantities of oxalic acid and alcohol to -the contents of the still, heat again until but little carbonic acid -is evolved, and then add, twice in succession, the same quantities of -oxalic acid and alcohol as before, until finally as much oxalic acid is -consumed as glycerin has been employed. When the evolution of carbonic -acid ceases, the receiver is reversed and the ether distilled off. The -glycerin remaining behind is again concentrated to the consistency of -syrup, and may be re-used. - -The distillate is freed from free acid by the addition of magnesia, and -the alcohol and water are separated by shaking with calcium chloride, -after which the pure ether is obtained by rectification. - -Formic ether is colorless, thinly-fluid, of a pleasant smell, specific -gravity 0.945, boiling point 130° F., soluble in cold water, and -miscible in every proportion with alcohol and ether. - -_Nitrous ether_, or _ethyl nitrite_, C_{2}H_{5}.ONO.--In a pure state -this ether is best prepared according to the method given by E. Kopp. -It consists in bringing equal volumes of alcohol and ordinary nitric -acid together with copper filings into a distilling apparatus, which -is so arranged that the vapors first pass through a flask filled with -water of 77° F., then through a calcium chloride tube, and are finally -condensed in a receiver surrounded by snow and common salt. The nitric -acid is first decomposed by the copper, nitrous acid being thereby -developed, which is so transposed that its radicle NO occupies the -position of the typical hydrogen in the alcohol, while the rest of the -acid forms water with the hydrogen of the alcohol. By the reaction such -a quantity of heat is liberated that the process requires assistance by -external heating only towards the end of the operation. In the receiver -is then a pale yellow fluid having the taste and odor of apples and, at -59° F., a specific gravity of 0.947. According to Liebig, the boiling -point of nitrous ether lies at 61.5° F.; hence it can be condensed only -by careful cooling, and has to be kept in glass tubes fused together. -In water it is but sparingly soluble, but readily so in alcohol. By the -addition of water it is separated from the alcoholic solution. - -Mohr has modified Kopp's method as follows: Mix alcohol of 0.833 -specific gravity, water, and nitric acid of 1.200 specific gravity, -each 24 parts and add 4 parts of copper filings. Of this mixture draw -off 24 parts of distillate, mix the latter with litmus tincture and -neutralize the free acid by adding, drop by drop, solution of caustic -potash or soda until the litmus tincture becomes blue. Rectify the -distillate and catch of it 8 parts. Compound the latter with 16 parts -alcohol of 0.833 specific gravity, whereby the product is made equal to -the quantity of alcohol originally used. The product is kept in glasses -holding from 2 to 3 ozs. each. This alcoholic nitrous ether is of a -yellow color, very strong and has a pure odor. - -In England and America, nitrous ether is much used for aromatizing -whiskies and for other purposes. According to Stinde[9] it is prepared -on a large scale as follows:-- - -A stone-ware flask of at least 120 lbs. capacity, such as is used for -the preparation of chlorine, is so placed upon a tripod in a sheet-iron -cylinder that the neck projects over the edge of the cylinder. The -space between the flask and the walls of the cylinder is completely -filled with mats or coarse pack-cloth. A steam-pipe enters the lower -part of the cylinder, while a cock placed on the bottom of the cylinder -serves for discharging the condensed water. The cylinder is closed by -a sheet-iron cover provided in the centre with a hole through which -passes the neck of the flask. The flask is filled with 60 lbs of 90 per -cent. alcohol free from fusel oil, to which, in small portions, 15 lbs. -of crude nitric acid of 36° Bé. are added. - - [9] Dingler's Polyt. Journ., 184, 367. - -The neck of the flask is provided with an exactly-fitting tube of pure -tin. The tube is bent twice at a right angle, and one end is provided -with an annular piece to prevent it from slipping too far into the -interior of the flask. The joints between the tube and the neck of the -flask are luted with a stiff paste of flaxseed meal, a wet strip of -linen being, for greater security, wrapped over the cement. The other -end of the tin-tube, which here occupies the place of a still-head, -is in the same manner connected with a long tin-worm lying in a large -cooling vat. - -Everything being prepared, but little steam is at first introduced -into the iron cylinder in order to slowly warm the apparatus. When -this is done the admission of steam is gradually increased. The mats -or pack-cloth placed between the walls of the cylinder and the flask -prevent the latter from bursting, which otherwise might readily happen. -Distillation commences in about ten minutes. The admission of steam -is then moderated, care being had that the ether passes over in an -uninterrupted stream of the thickness of a goose-quill. - -When, with the admission of the same amount of steam, the distillate -commences to run drop by drop, the steam-cock is closed and the -operation interrupted, this being the case in about six to seven hours. - -The next day the flask--without removing the residue--is charged in -the same manner. However, the third day only 30 pounds of alcohol are -poured in. - -The combined distillates come into a copper still with double walls, -between which steam can be admitted, and are neutralized with dry -calcium hydrate. The cooling pipe connected with the still consists of -tin, and is provided with a beak dipping into a flask filled half-full -with 4 pounds of alcohol. A slight current of steam suffices for -distillation. The first distillate is dark yellow, and contains large -quantities of aldehyde. Notwithstanding careful cooling, the vapors can -be but incompletely condensed, and their inhalation has to be carefully -avoided, they producing stupor and headache as well as inflammation of -the eyes. When the distillate is colorless and shows no reaction with -litmus paper, the receiver is removed and replaced by a large glass -balloon in which the entire distillate is collected. Distillation must -be quickly finished, as otherwise colored ether is obtained. - -_Valerianic amyl ether_ or _amyl valerate_, C_{5}H_{11}O.C_{5}H_{9}O. - -This ether is formed by treating amyl alcohol with chromic acid. -However, besides the ether a large quantity of valerianic acid is also -formed, which has to be converted by itself into ether. - -To prepare the ether bring 5½ parts of powdered potassium dichromate -together with 5 parts of water into a distilling apparatus and very -gradually add a mixture of 1 part amyl alcohol and 5 parts concentrated -sulphuric acid. The fluid becomes so strongly heated that it almost -boils. When reaction is finished, heat and distil off the rest. The -distillate consists of two layers; the lower one being an aqueous -solution of valerianic acid and the upper one a mixture of valerianic -acid and amyl valerate. To separate both, add concentrated carbonate of -soda solution until all the free acid is neutralized. The oily liquid -separating thereby is the ether. It is separated from the valerianate -of sodium, the latter evaporated to a small volume, and, after cooling, -sufficient sulphuric acid to fix the entire quantity of the soda is -added. The valerianic acid is thereby separated, and floats upon the -solution of the sodium sulphate. It is separated from the latter, and -1¼ parts of it are added to a mixture of ¾ part of amyl alcohol and 1 -part sulphuric acid and heated to 212° F. After the addition of water, -the apple-ether separates and only requires washing with water and some -sodium carbonate to yield a pure product. - -The separation of the valerianic acid can, however, be readily avoided. -Evaporate the neutral solution of the valerianate of soda to dryness in -the water-bath, weigh off 1 molecule, or 124 parts, and gently heat it -with a mixture of 1 molecule or 98 parts of sulphuric acid (on account -of the content of water in the commercial acid, 105 parts of it will -have to be taken) and 1 molecule or 88 parts of amyl alcohol. - -The ether thus obtained is a fluid, which, in a concentrated state, -does not possess an agreeable odor, but when mixed with 10 parts of -alcohol imparts to the latter an odor resembling that of apples. It -boils at from 370° to 374° F., and at 64° F. has a specific gravity of -0.8793. - -_Valerianic ethyl ether_ closely resembles the amyl ether, and, like -it, is prepared from valerianate of sodium, ordinary alcohol, and -sulphuric acid. - -_Apple ether_ essentially consists of valeric amyl ether, of which 1 -part is dissolved in 6 to 10 parts of strong alcohol. - -_Apricot ether_ is butyric ether with some amyl alcohol. - -_Cherry ether_ is acetic ether with benzoic ether. - -_Pear ether_ contains acetic amyl ether. - -_Pineapple ether_ is butyric ether. - -_Strawberry ether_ is acetic ether with acetic amyl ether and butyric -ether. - -The ethers are dissolved in various proportions in alcohol, according -to the intensity of the odor which it is desired to obtain. The -aroma of most of them is generally increased by a slight addition of -chloroform. - -For the preparation of different fruit essences Kletzinsky[10] gives -the following directions. The figures indicate additions in cubic -centimeters to 1 liter of rectified alcohol of 90 per cent.:-- - - [10] Dingler's Polyt. Journ., 180, 77. - -_Apple essence._--Chloroform 10, nitrous ether 10, aldehyde 20, acetic -ether 10, valeric amyl ether 100, oxalic acid[11] 10, glycerin 40. - -_Apricot essence._--Chloroform 10, butyric ether 100, valeric ether -50, peach oil 10, amyl alcohol 20, butyric amyl ether 10, tartaric -acid[11] 10, glycerin 40. - -_Cherry essence._--Acetic ether 50, benzoic ether 50, peach oil 10, -benzoic acid[11] 10, glycerin 30. - -_Currant essence._--Aldehyde 10, acetic ether 50, benzoic ether 10, -grape-seed oil 10, tartaric acid[11] 50, succinic acid[11] 10, benzoic -acid[11] 10. - -_Grape essence._--Chloroform 20, aldehyde 20, formic ether 20, -grape-seed oil 100, wintergreen oil 10, tartaric acid[11] 50, succinic -acid[11] 30, glycerin 100. - -_Lemon essence._--Chloroform 10, nitrous ether 10, aldehyde 20, acetic -ether 100, oil of lemons 100, tartaric acid[11] 100, succinic acid[11] -10, glycerin 50. - -_Melon essence._--Aldehyde 20, formic ether 10, butyric ether 40, -valeric ether 50, glycerin 30. - -_Orange essence._--Chloroform 20, aldehyde 20, acetic ether 50, -formic ether 10, butyric ether 10, benzoic ether 10, wintergreen oil -10, acetic amyl ether 10, orange-peel oil 100, tartaric acid[11] 10, -glycerin 100. - - [11] The figures for free acids refer to cubic centimeters of cold, - saturated, alcoholic solutions. - -_Peach essence._--Aldehyde 20, acetic ether 50, formic ether 50, -butyric ether 50, valeric ether 50, peach oil 50, amyl alcohol 20, -glycerin 50. - -_Pear essence._--Acetic ether 50, acetic amyl ether 100, glycerin 100. - -_Pineapple essence._--Chloroform 10, aldehyde 10, butyric ethyl ether -50, butyric amyl ether 100, glycerin 30. - -_Plum essence._--Aldehyde 50, acetic ether 50, formic ether 10, butyric -ether 20, peach oil 40, glycerin 80. - -_Raspberry essence._--Nitrous ether 10, aldehyde 10, acetic ether 50, -formic ether 10, butyric ether 10, benzoic ether 10, grape-seed oil -10, wintergreen oil 10, acetic amyl ether 10, butyric amyl ether 10, -tartaric acid[11] 50, succinic acid[11] 10, glycerin 40. - - [11] The figures for free acids refer to cubic centimeters of cold, - saturated, alcoholic solutions. - -_Strawberry essence._--Nitrous ether 10, acetic ether 50, formic ether -10, butyric ether 50, wintergreen oil 10, acetic amyl ether 30, butyric -amyl ether 20, glycerin 20. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. - - -The alcoholic perfumes, also called "_Extraits d'Odeurs_," are divided -into flower-odors, "_Extraits aux fleurs_," and into compound odors, -"_Bouquets_." The extracts of French flower pomades form the foundation -of all _Extraits d'Odeurs_, all other additions serving the purpose of -rendering these odors more pronounced and durable. Hence the art of the -perfumer consist in attaining this object as perfectly as possible by -the correct composition of the perfume-materials at his disposal. If, -for instance, the flower-odor _jasmine_ is to be prepared, it would not -be sufficient to simply use the alcoholic extract of jasmine-pomade for -the purpose, since the odor of jasmine would soon volatilize in the -air or upon the handkerchief, if the perfumer did not understand how -to prevent it. To prevent the rapid volatilization of the scent, to -retain it or to fix it, extracts of various perfume-materials, known as -tinctures or extracts are used. - -The method of preparing the flower-pomades in France has already been -described on p. 58 _et seq._ It need here only be added that, according -to their quality, these pomades are designated by different numbers -by the French manufacturers. There are three qualities, which by some -manufacturers are designated as No. 6, No. 18, and No. 30; and by -others as No. 12, No. 24 and No. 36, so that No. 6 and No. 12, No. 18 -and No. 24, as well as No. 30 and 36 correspond to each other. Pomades -No. 6 or No. 12 are not suitable for the preparation of extracts, they -containing but little actual extract of flowers, and are generally -mixtures touched up with volatile oils. They are almost exclusively -used for hair pomades, for which they are well adapted. No. 18 or No. -24 is the quality generally employed by the perfumer for alcoholic -extracts. No. 30 or No. 36 is the strongest, and, hence, most expensive -flower-pomade, and is used only by a few perfumers who have customers -for the finest qualities of _Extraits d'Odeurs_. - -When freshly prepared, the above-mentioned flower pomades do not -possess the fine odor of the respective flowers, the full aroma being -developed only after about six months. The tin-canisters containing -them should be provided with well-fitting lids and kept in a cool, dry -cellar. Thus stored, flower-pomade keeps for about five years, with the -exception of jasmine and tuberose, which keep only for about two years. - -In order to show how the extraction of flower-pomades is effected, -we will take, as an example, 2 lbs. of French flower-pomade No. 18 -and 3½ quarts of best alcohol.[14] This proportion yields a good and -sufficiently strong extract for the preparation of _Extraits d'Odeurs_. -It must, of course, be suited to the size of the extracting apparatus, -8 lbs. of flower-pomade and 14 quarts of alcohol being, for instance, -taken, though that depends on the quantity of the respective extract -required by the perfumer. It is, however, best that the apparatus -should be as completely filled as possible so that it contains but -little air. - - [14] By "best alcohol" is understood rectified alcohol of 95 to 97 per - cent. - -The gaining of alcoholic extracts from flower-pomades is best effected -in a special apparatus, one of the simplest kind for the purpose being -shown at Fig. 25. - - [Illustration: FIG. 25.] - -It consists of two cylinders, _A_ and _A_{1}_ of stout sheet-iron -provided with well-fitting lids. Through the centre of each lid passes -a vertical iron shaft _a_ and _a_{1}_ which carries in the interior -of the apparatus several horizontal arms _b_, _b_{1}_, _b_{2}_. These -vertical shafts can be rapidly revolved by the horizontal shaft _c_. -Before bringing the flower-pomade into the apparatus, it is melted in -the water-bath at a temperature, which, under no conditions, should -exceed 88.25° F. The alcohol is also heated to 88.25° F. and added to -the melted pomade in the apparatus. The arms with which the vertical -shaft is provided, keep the mass in the apparatus in constant motion -and prevent the pomade from settling on the bottom. The apparatus is -arranged to be driven either by hand or steam, a fly-wheel instead of a -pulley, being in the first case provided at _g_. - -Where the manufacturer has steam-power at his disposal, the apparatus -may be connected with the transmission and allowed to run for 48 to 60 -hours during working time. After the expiration of this time, proceed -to strain off the finished extract (No. 1) as follows: Over a clean tin -vessel stretch a close, white linen cloth, and pour the entire contents -of the apparatus upon the latter; the liquid portion runs through the -cloth into the vessel, while the pomade remains behind upon the cloth. -Finally, the cloth is thoroughly wrung out in order to obtain as much -alcoholic extract from the pomade as possible. Bring the extract, No. -1, thus obtained into a glass flask, allow it to stand in a cool cellar -for about 48 hours, and then filter it through paper into another glass -bottle. This filtering through paper is necessary, even if the extract -should appear clear and pure, as, in straining, not only do small -particles of fat pass through the cloth, but are also dissolved in the -extract. By quietly standing in a cool cellar these particles of fat -are separated and appear as white flakes on the bottom and sides of the -flask. At a higher temperature, these flakes melt and appear as drops -of oil on the bottom of the flask. If filtering were omitted, these -particles of fat would be transferred to the extracts and thus cause -stains upon handkerchiefs, clothing, etc. If the manufacturer has not a -cool cellar at his disposal, the fatty particles are readily separated -by placing the flasks containing the extract upon ice, and filtering -immediately after separation is complete. The fat then remains upon the -filter. - -The pomade remaining upon the straining cloth is, without being -previously melted, returned to the apparatus, and, after adding the -same quantity of alcohol (3½ quarts to every 2 lbs. of pomade), the -mixture is again worked as previously described. The straining off and -filtering of extract No. 2 is effected in precisely the same manner as -extract No. 1. - -The pomade upon the cloth is now brought for the third time into the -apparatus and, after adding 3½ quarts of alcohol for every 2 lbs. of -pomade, subjected to the same treatment as for extracts Nos. 1 and 2. -After thoroughly wringing out the cloth containing the pomade, the -latter is brought into a clean tin vessel and entirely melted upon -the water-bath. The vessel containing the melted pomade is placed in -a cool cellar and, if after complete cooling, a liquid appears upon -the surface, it is added to the flask containing extract No. 3. This -extract, No. 3, is used in place of alcohol when preparing, the next -time, extract No. 1 from the same kind of pomade. In this manner, an -extract No. 1 of still greater strength is obtained, and by treating -the pomade three times with alcohol, it is more completely exhausted. -The exhausted pomade can, in conjunction with fresh fat, be used for -ordinary hair pomades. - -Although the extraction of pomades is somewhat laborious and requires -great care, it nevertheless pays the perfumer. - - [Illustration: FIG. 26.] - -Beyer frères, of Paris, have essentially improved the extracting -apparatus previously described, the improvement being shown in Fig. 26. -The cylinders _A_ and _A_{1}_ are of copper tinned inside; the lids -close air-tight; above the cocks _f_ and _f_{1}_ a perforated piece of -tin is placed in the interior of the cylinders; upon this piece of tin -a disk of felt may be placed, and thus the extract be drawn off clear. -In order to reduce the pomade to a finely divided state, and thus bring -it in contact with the alcohol, it is passed through a vermicelli -press, _h_, placed upon the cylinder _A_{1}_. The pomade passes, in -the form of fine vermicelli, through a sieve in the lower portion of -the press into the alcohol contained in the cylinders. The press can -be transferred from one extracting vessel to the other. The shafts _a_ -and _a_{1}_ also have several horizontal arms like those shown in Fig. -25. Through the contrivances _d_ and _d_{1}_, sitting upon the shaft -_c_, the shafts _a_ and _a_{1}_, receive a revolving as well as an -up-and-down motion, so that a complete mixture of pomade and alcohol is -effected. By this arrangement the pomade completely yields its perfume -to the alcohol in one day, and independent of the quicker work, it -has the further advantage that the extracts are of better quality in -consequence of not remaining for so long a time in contact with the fat. - - -TINCTURES AND EXTRACTS. In the following pages receipts for the -preparation of the principal tinctures and extracts used in the -preparation of _Extraits_, as well as in other branches of perfumery, -fumigating pastils and powders, dentifrices, mouth-waters, and -cosmetics, will be given. The tinctures are prepared from the -resins and balsams previously mentioned, as well as from the -perfume-substances derived from the animal kingdom. Besides these -there are employed for the purpose several spices, leaves, roots, and -seeds--such as musk-seeds, angelica root, orris root, patchouli leaves, -musk-root or sumbul-root, tonka beans, vanilla, vitivert root, etc. - -Most of these substances, if not already found in commerce in the form -of a powder, are, before extraction, pulverized, or at least comminuted -as much as possible. For a better view the treatment of each substance -is given with the respective receipt. The infusions should be stored in -a moderately warm room, and thoroughly shaken several times every day. -When extraction is finished the product is filtered through paper and -is then called _tincture_ or _extract_. - -The substances to be used for tinctures should be fresh and genuine, -and the alcohol free from fusel oil, since a perfect tincture can only -be obtained under these conditions. For the preparation of tinctures -Beyer frères have constructed very suitable apparatuses (Figs. 27 and -28). By the vigorous and uninterrupted agitation produced by means of -such an apparatus extraction is effected much more rapidly and more -completely than by treating the substances to be extracted in ordinary -bottles and by shaking with the hand. - - [Illustration: FIG. 27.] - -The apparatus (Fig. 27) is provided with two boxes for the reception -of bottles filled with the substances to be extracted and alcohol. -In the accompanying illustration one box is charged with two glass -bottles and the other with a copper flask. However, Beyer frères also -construct apparatuses which can, at one time, be charged with 6, 8, -or 10 glass bottles, so that 6, 8, or 10 different tinctures can be -prepared at one operation. - - [Illustration: FIG. 28.] - -The apparatus (Fig. 28) consists of a round table provided with -cavities covered with leather, in which rest bottles of a special -shape. The bottles fit exactly in the cavities. The stoppers, with -which the bottles are closed, rest against a screw of large diameter -placed in the centre of the apparatus. Against this screw the bottles -are firmly pressed by means of clamps and screws. The bottles being -filled with the substances to be extracted, the table is set in motion, -moving alternately from left to right and from right to left. - -It is advisable to have always a sufficient supply of tinctures on -hand, since their aroma improves by age. - -The receipts given in the following pages have been practically tested -and can be recommended as perfectly reliable. - -_Musk tincture._--Tonkin musk 11 drachms, rose water 8 ozs., best -quality of alcohol 2 quarts. - -Carefully empty the musk sac into a glass flask, add the rose water and -let the flask stand for about 10 days, shaking frequently. Then add the -alcohol and let the whole stand for several weeks, shaking frequently. -Cut up the empty musk sacs into as small pieces as possible, and, -in another bottle, treat them in the same manner as their contents; -distilled water, may, however, be used instead of rose water. The -object of the water is to soften the musk, which swells up, so that the -alcohol can better penetrate into the cellular tissue and absorb the -aroma. - -The extract from the empty musk sacs is used for cheaper products, or -mixed with the extract from the contents of the sacs, according to -whether a more or less fine quality of tincture is to be obtained. A -still higher yield might, perhaps, be obtained by the use of a machine -for comminuting the musk, which grinds the sac to atoms, whereby the -cellular tissue is still more completely disintegrated than by cutting -up. - -_Civet tincture._--Civet 5½ drachms, best quality of alcohol 3 pints. - -Civet in its natural state being, with difficulty, soluble in alcohol, -triturate it in a mortar to a pulverulent mass together with some dry -substance, for instance, whiting or exhausted orris-root powder. The -mixture is then brought into a glass flask, the alcohol added, and the -whole frequently shaken. - -_Ambergris tincture._--Ambergris 5½ drachms, alcohol of the best -quality 1 quart. - -Ambergris dissolving readily in alcohol, pulverizing is not required, -but if it is done, great care should be exercised to prevent loss of -this expensive substance. Ambergris is not so much distinguished by its -aroma as by its indestructibility, which renders it especially suitable -for fixing odors. - -_Castor tincture._--Castor 3½ ozs., best quality of alcohol 3 pints. - -Comminute the castor as much as possible, bring it into a glass flask -and add the alcohol. - -Perfume-substances resembling musk having in the last few years -increased to an extraordinary degree, the use of castor has been almost -entirely abandoned on account of its disagreeable odor. The tincture -can only be employed, when very old, for cheap perfumes. - -_Benzoin tincture._--Benzoin (Siam) 2 lbs., best quality of alcohol 3 -quarts. - -Convert the benzoin into a coarse powder, bring it into a flask, add -the alcohol and shake thoroughly. Solution takes place in 10 to 12 days. - -Siam benzoin is the finest and most expensive and is indispensable for -_Extraits d'Odeurs_. For cheaper products of perfumery, Sumatra benzoin -answers very well. - -_Peru-balsam tincture._--Peru balsam 8 ozs., best quality of alcohol 5 -quarts. - -_Tolu-balsam tincture._--Tolu balsam 3 lbs., best quality of alcohol 5 -quarts. - -Bring the alcohol into a bottle. Tolu balsam cannot be reduced to a -powder, hence it is necessary to keep it right cool, whereby it becomes -brittle so that it can be cut up with a sharp instrument and a hammer. -The pieces detached are rapidly brought into the alcohol, solution -taking place in about 14 days. If the alcohol were added to the tolu -balsam, the latter would ball together, rendering solution very -difficult. Frequent vigorous shaking is necessary. - -_Olibanum tincture._--Olibanum 2 lbs., best quality of alcohol 4 quarts. - -Reduce the olibanum to as fine a powder as possible, bring it into a -flask, add the alcohol and shake frequently. - -_Opopanax tincture._--Opopanax 2 lbs., best quality of alcohol 4 quarts. - -Reduce the opopanax to a coarse powder, bring it into a bottle, add the -alcohol and shake frequently. - -_Storax tincture._--_Storax liquidus_ 4 lbs., alcohol of best quality 5 -quarts. - -Bring the alcohol first into the flask. Then place the pot containing -the storax in warm water until it becomes more liquid, and then pour it -in very thin threads into the flask. Shake frequently. - -_Myrrh tincture._--Myrrh 1 lb., best quality of alcohol 2 quarts. - -_Musk-seed or abelmosk tincture._--Abelmosk grains 21 ozs., best -quality of alcohol 2½ quarts. - -Reduce the grains to a fine powder, bring the powder into a bottle, -and add the alcohol. This _tincture abelmoschi_ fulfils its object as -a fixing agent only when about one year old, when it possesses a very -fine aroma. - -Abelmosk grains are the seeds of a plant (_Abelmoschus moschatus -Mönch_; _Hebiscus abelmoschus, L._) indigenous to Central Africa, -Arabia, and India. They are reddishgray, kidney-shaped, slightly -corrugated on the surface, and of an agreeable musk-like odor. The -substance producing the musk odor lies in the seed coat. The odor -becomes very pronounced on rubbing the seeds between the hands. - -_Angelica root tincture._--Angelica root 16 ozs., best quality of -alcohol 2 quarts. - -Bruise or rasp the root, bring it into a bottle, add the alcohol, and -shake frequently. - -_Orris-root tincture._--Pulverized orris root of best quality 2 lbs., -alcohol of best quality 3 quarts. - -Pulverize the root, bring it into a glass flask, and add the alcohol. -The powder having a great tendency to ball together, it is necessary -to shake five or six times daily, and continue to do so for 14 days. -In straining off the tincture, it is advisable to bring the entire -contents of the flask upon a close linen cloth stretched over a tin -vessel. The orris-root powder remaining upon the cloth after the -tincture has run off is returned to the flask, and fresh alcohol added -in order to obtain a second extract. - -_Musk-root_ or _sumbul-root tincture_.--Sumbul root 1 lb., best quality -of alcohol 2½ quarts. - -Proceed in the same manner as given under angelica-root tincture. - -_Tonka-bean tincture._--Tonka beans 8 ozs., alcohol of best quality 3 -pints. - -The tonka bean is of great importance for perfumery. The tincture -prepared from it has an agreeable, penetrating odor, and in mixing it -with other odors, great care has to be exercised, so that the tonka -odor is not too prominent. The tincture is prepared as follows: Bring -the beans, without comminuting them or removing the white coating -adhering to them, into a flask, add the alcohol, and let the whole -macerate, with frequent shaking, for about 14 days. Then filter off the -fluid. The tincture prepared in this manner only contains the cumarin -found as a white coating upon the beans, and is used only for the -finest products. Now take the beans from the flask, comminute them, -return them to the flask, and add 1¼ quarts of alcohol. This extract -gives an excellent tincture suitable for products of medium quality. - -_Cumarin tincture._--Cumarin 5½ drachms, best quality of alcohol 1 -quart. - -_Heliotropin tincture._--The white crystals of heliotropin yield -with alcohol a solution clear as water, which is much used in the -preparation of _Extrait héliotrope_. - -_Vanilla tincture._--Best quality of Bourbon vanilla 5¼ ozs., alcohol -of best quality 2 quarts. - -To prepare the tincture proceed as follows: Cut the so-called vanilla -pods lengthwise and then into as small pieces as possible, and bring -the latter together with the alcohol into a flask. Some perfumers -triturate the commimuted vanilla with sugar in a porcelain mortar, -whereby the small-seed bodies contained in the pod are ground up, and -a better yield is claimed to be obtained. Though by this trituration -a tincture of a darker color may be obtained, the color alone is by -no means a proof of the strength of the tincture. Care must be had to -bring the white, downy crystals of vanillin found upon the vanilla pods -into the flask. - -_Vanillin tincture._--Vanillin 1½ drachms, alcohol 2 quarts. - -_Vitivert tincture._--Vitivert rhizome 8 ozs., best quality of alcohol -2 quarts. - -Reduce the rhizome to as fine a powder as possible, bring the latter -into a flask, add the alcohol and shake frequently. - -_Juniper-berry tincture._--Juniper berries 2 lbs., best quality of -alcohol 5 pints. - -The juniper berries (the fruits of _Juniperus communis, L._) are -comminuted, and the alcohol is poured over them. - -_Patchouli extract._[15]--Patchouli leaves 1 lb., best quality of -alcohol 5 pints. - - [15] Compare patchouli oil, p. 130. - -Bring the pulverized leaves into a bottle and add the alcohol. The -tincture from patchouli leaves being dark-green is not suitable for -the preparation of _Extraits_, since white substances are colored -grass-green by it; only traces of the tincture may be used for the -purpose of giving the _Extrait patchouli_ a greenish shade of color. -The tincture may, however, be utilized for milled patchouli soaps. - -From many of the above-mentioned perfume-substances, which serve -for the preparation of tinctures and are not entirely soluble in -alcohol, but leave a residue after extraction, a second infusion may -be made. Musk, castor, and the resins dissolve completely, there -remaining behind only the impurities and any mineral constituents -present which possess no aroma. But all residues from woods, fruits, -etc., are suitable for a second extraction, most of the tinctures -thus obtained being quite aromatic, and, as will be seen later on in -giving receipts, can be very advantageously utilized. For the second -extraction less alcohol has to be taken than for the first. - -Since many perfumers consider it of greater advantage and more suitable -to first dissolve the volatile oils used for the _Extraits d'Odeurs_, -and to prepare a tincture in this manner, several receipts for the -purpose are given below. In the receipts for perfumery given in the -next following sections, the volatile oils are specified as such, and -not as tinctures, because the _Extraits d'Odeurs_ containing evidently -much non-saturated alcohol, the volatile oils will in time completely -dissolve in them. An exception to this rule might be ylang-ylang oil -and perhaps orris-root oil. Ylang-ylang oil is soluble with difficulty, -even in very strong alcohol, and if directly used for the _Extrait_, -the latter remains turbid for weeks, and frequently, especially in -winter, does not become clear, notwithstanding repeated filtering. -However, by preparing in good time an ylang-ylang tincture this evil is -avoided. - -_Almond-oil (bitter) tincture._--Bitter almond oil 2¾ drachms, -alcohol[16] 1 quart. - - [16] For all the tinctures, 95 to 97 per cent. alcohol of the best - quality is to be used. - -_Balm-oil tincture._--Balm oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 quart. - -_Basil-oil tincture._--Basil oil 14 drachms, alcohol 1 quart. - -_Bergamot-oil tincture._--Bergamot oil 3½ ozs., alcohol 4 quarts. - -_Canango-oil tincture._--Canango oil (Java), 1¾ ozs., alcohol 1 -quart. - -_Cassia-oil tincture._--Cassia oil 1¾ ozs., alcohol 1 quart. - -_Cedar-oil tincture._--Cedar oil 1 oz., alcohol 1 quart. - -_Cinnamon-oil tincture._--Ceylon cinnamon oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 -quart. - -_Citronella-oil tincture._--Citronella oil 1 oz., alcohol 1 quart. - -_Clove-oil tincture._--Oil of cloves 11 drachms, alcohol 1 quart. - -_Eucalyptus-oil tincture._--Eucalyptus oil 1 oz., alcohol 1½ quarts. - -_Geranium-oil tincture._--Palma rosa oil 14 drachms, alcohol 1 quart. - -_Lavender-oil tincture._--Lavender oil 1¾ ozs., alcohol 1 quart. - -_Lemon-grass-oil tincture._--Lemon-grass oil 1 oz., alcohol 1 quart. - -_Lemon-oil tincture._--Oil of lemons 1¾ ozs., alcohol 1 quart. - -_Licari-oil tincture._--Licari oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 quart. - -_Myrrh-oil tincture._--Myrrh oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 quart. - -_Neroli-oil tincture._--Neroli oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 quart. - -_Opopanax-oil tincture._--Opopanax oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 quart. - -_Orris-root-oil tincture._--Orris-root oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 quart. - -_Patchouli-oil tincture._--Patchouli oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 quart. - -_Petit-grain-oil tincture._--Petit-grain oil 11 drachms, alcohol 1 -quart. - -_Pine-leaf-oil tincture._--Pine-leaf oil[17] 14 drachms, alcohol 1 -quart. - - [17] By pine-leaf oil is understood pine oil or dwarf-pine oil. See p. - 149. - -_Portugal-oil tincture._--Portugal oil 1¾ ozs., alcohol 1 quart. - -_Sandal-wood-oil tincture._--Sandal-wood[18] oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 -quart. - - [18] The better quality of oil from the East Indian wood is to be used. - -_Verbena-oil tincture._--Verbena oil 11 drachms, alcohol 1 quart. - -_Vitivert-oil tincture._--Vitivert oil 2¾ drachms, alcohol 1 quart. - -_Wintergreen-oil tincture._--Wintergreen oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 -quart. - -_Ylang-ylang-oil tincture._--Ylang-ylang oil 11 drachms, alcohol 3 -quarts. - -_Rose-oil tincture._--Rose oil (Turkish)[19] 1¾ ozs., alcohol 6½ -quarts. - - [19] Bulgarian rose oil is generally designated "Turkish rose oil." - -Rose oil, if directly added to the alcohol, dissolves with difficulty -and incompletely. By the following method the object is, however, -readily accomplished:-- - -Bring about 5½ ozs. of pulverized sugar into a capacious porcelain -mortar, add the rose oil and mix intimately with the pestle. Then pour -the thickly-fluid mass through a glass funnel into a glass flask and -rinse the mortar with alcohol until the prescribed 6½ quarts of the -latter have been brought into the flask. Frequent shaking accelerates -the complete solution of the rose oil. - - -EXTRAITS AUX FLEURS. We now proceed to give receipts for _Extraits -d'Odeurs_, and consider first the flower odors, _Extraits aux fleurs_. -_By extracts are thereby understood the odors extracted from French -flower pomades._ Any coloring matter required is mentioned under the -respective receipts. - -Great care has to be exercised in the preparation of _Extraits_ and -_Bouquets_, and special attention must be paid that they actually -represent the odor whose name they bear. - -_Extrait acacia._--Extract No. 1 from _Pomm. Acacia_ 750 drachms, -bergamot oil 1, lavender oil 1, eucalyptus oil ½, orris-root tincture -125, musk-root tincture 12½, ambergris tincture 2½, civet tincture 1, -musk tincture 1. - -_Extrait cassie._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Cassie_ 500 drachms, -from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 125, bergamot oil 5, orris-root tincture 75, -tinctures of vitivert and angelica each 12½, tinctures of musk and -ambergris each 2½. - -_Extrait héliotrope_ (_Receipt No. 1_).--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. -Héliotrope_ 750 drachms, and from _Pomm. Rose_ 75, bergamot oil 2½, -rose-geranium oil 1½, musk tincture 2½, civet tincture 1½, heliotropin -tincture 50. - -_Extrait héliotrope_ (_Receipt No. 2_).--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. -Héliotrope_ 500 drachms, and from _Pomm. Rose_ and _Pomm. Orange_ 50 -each, bergamot oil 5, clove oil 2½, vanilla tincture 50, orris-root -tincture 100, musk-root tincture 25, tinctures of musk and civet 5 -each, benzoin tincture 10, Peru-balsam tincture 5. - -_Extrait jacinthe._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jacinthe_ 750 drachms, -and from _Pomm. Acacia_ 100; bergamot oil 5, clove oil 1, storax -tincture 2½, musk-root tincture 12½, tinctures of musk and ambergris 1½ -each. - -_Extrait jasmin._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 500 drachms, -and from _Pomm. Orange_ 100; civet tincture 1½, ambergris tincture 1, -sandal-wood oil 3 drops. - -_Essence of the odor of linden blossoms._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. -Acacia_ 250 drachms, from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 50, and from _Pomm. Jonquille_ -100; pure camomile oil 1½, oil of lemons 2½, ambergris tincture 5, -civet tincture 3. - -_Extrait jonquille._--Extract No. 1 from _Pomm. Jonquille_ 750 drachms, -lavender oil ½, bergamot oil 2½, Ceylon cinnamon oil ½, storax -tincture 1½, tinctures of abelmosk and angelica each 5, musk tincture -1½, civet tincture 1. - -_Extrait magnolia._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 150 drachms, -from _Pomm. Acacia_ 250, and from _Pomm. Rose_ 125, balm oil 2½, -tinctures of vanilla and cumarin each 12½, civet tincture 1½, musk -tincture 2½. - -_Extrait muguet_ (_lily of the valley_).--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. -Jonquille_ 750 drachms, from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 100, from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ -200, and from _Pomm. Acacia_ and _Pomm. Orange_ each 100; bergamot oil -7½ drachms, oil of lemons 2½, angelica oil 3 drops, storax tincture 5 -drachms, musk tincture 2½, vanilla tincture 5, ambergris tincture 2, -ylang-ylang tincture 100, wintergreen tincture 25, bitter-almond-oil -tincture 2½. - -_Extrait fleurs de Mai_ (_May flowers_).--Extract No. 1 from _Pomm. -Réséda_, _Pomm. Rose_ and _Pomm. Héliotrope_, each 75 drachms; from -_Pomm. Jasmin_ 125, and from _Pomm. Orange_ 50; bergamot oil 7½, Ceylon -cinnamon oil 2½, orris-root tincture 50, tinctures of ambergris and -musk, each 15, ylang-ylang tincture 25. - -_Extrait ixora._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 125 drachms, -from _Pomm. Cassie_ and _Pomm. Réséda_, each 175; bergamot oil 5, -orris-root tincture 125, musk tincture 10, benzoin tincture 25. - -_Extrait Orange._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Orange_ 500 drachms, from -_Pomm. Acacia_ 100; Portugal oil 7½, tinctures of musk and ambergris, -each 1. - -_Extrait white rose._--Rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 500 -drachms, bergamot oil 1¼, sandal-wood oil 3 drops, nutmeg oil 1 drop, -musk tincture ¾ drachm, civet tincture ½ drachm. - -_Extrait rose v. d. centifolie._--Extract No. 1 from _Pomm. Rose_ 500 -drachms, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 500, rose-geranium oil -10, musk tincture, 2½, sandal-wood oil, 7 drops. - -_Extrait violette._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Violette_ 500 drachms, -and from _Pomm. Cassie_ 250; orris-root tincture 125, musk tincture 1½, -sandal-wood oil 3 drops. - -To give the _extrait violette_ an apparently greater concentration, -it is compounded with a green coloring tincture. The latter may be -prepared by bringing comminuted dried spinach leaves into a bottle and -pouring 96 per cent. alcohol over them. The result is a handsome green -coloring matter; but care must be taken not to add too much of it to -the _extrait_, as otherwise it might stain the handkerchief, etc.[20] - - [20] This spinach extract unfortunately bleaches very rapidly - when exposed to light, and the extraits colored with it acquire - a dirty-brown color. Hence it is recommended to use the "green - tincture," which can be purchased from the larger manufactories of - volatile oils. - -_Extrait de violette de Parme._--Extract No. 1 from _Pomm. Violette_ -750 drachms, orris-root oil and bergamot oil each 2½, tinctures of -musk, ambergris, and bitter-almond oil each 1½. - -This _extrait_ may also be colored slightly green. - -_Extrait tubereuse._--Extract No. 1 from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 500 drachms, -bergamot oil 2½, Ceylon cinnamon oil ½, musk tincture 1½, storax -tincture 2½. - -_Extrait réséda._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Réséda_ 750 drachms, and -from _Pomm. Violette_ 100; bergamot oil 7½, rose-geranium oil 2½, clove -oil 1½, musk tincture 2, ambergris tincture 1. - -A trace of the above-mentioned green coloring substance may be added. - -_Extrait ylang-ylang._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jasmin_, _Pomm. -Jonquille_, _Pomm. Orange_, and _Pomm. Acacia_, each 250 drachms, -bergamot oil 7½, angelica oil 2½, ylang-ylang tincture 500, abelmosk -tincture 25, tonka-bean extract 7½, musk tincture 4, ambergris tincture -2½. - - -COMPOUND ODORS (BOUQUETS). _Extrait Edelweiss._--Extracts No. 1 from -_Pomm. Jasmin_ and _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 250 drachms each, and from -_Pomm. Orange_, _Pomm. Héliotrope_, and _Pomm. Jacinthe_ 125 each, -bergamot oil 10, basil oil 5, tinctures of musk and ambergris each 5, -bitter-almond-oil tincture 2½, tinctures of angelica and vitivert each -25. - -_Extrait ess-bouquet._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Acacia_ and _Pomm. -Cassie_ each 100 drachms, from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 325, from _Pomm. Rose_ -75, and from _Pomm. Orange_ 250; bergamot oil 40, Ceylon cinnamon oil -and clove oil each 5, French rose-geranium oil 10, sandal-wood oil 2½, -licari oil 8, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 75, orris-root -tincture 50, tinctures of ambergris and civet each 10, musk tincture -15, musk-root tincture 37½, benzoin tincture 15. - -_Extrait spring flower._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jasmin_, _Pomm. -Cassie_, _Pomm. Orange_, _Pomm. Jonquille_, _Pomm. Tubereuse_, and -_Pomm. Violette_ each 100 drachms, from _Pomm. Rose_ 50, from _Pomm. -Réséda_ 100, and from _Pomm. Héliotrope_ and _Pomm. Acacia_ each 50; -neroli oil 2½, bergamot oil 5, vitivert oil ½, rose-oil tincture from -Turkish rose oil 50, musk-root tincture 12½, musk tincture 5, civet -tincture 2½, orris-root tincture 25. - -_Extrait bouquet Eugenie._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Cassie_ 100 -drachms, from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 75, from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 125; bergamot -oil 10, licari oil 2½, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 75, -musk-root tincture 10, cumarin tincture 7½, orris-root tincture 75, -tinctures of angelica and musk each 10, ambergris tincture 5. - -_Extrait excelsior._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 200 drachms -and from _Pomm. Orange_ and _Pomm. Héliotrope_ each 100; oils of lemon -and rose geranium each 4, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 60, -orris-root tincture 50, musk tincture 5, abelmosk tincture 10, opopanax -tincture 5, storax tincture 1. - -_Extrait Frangipani._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Cassie_ 150 drachms, -and from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 50; French rose geranium oil 5, cassia oil 2, -licari oil 3, sandal-wood oil 1, orris-root tincture 100, angelica -tincture 8, musk tincture 5, storax tincture 5. - -_Extrait jockey club._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Orange_ 150 drachms, -from _Pomm. Rose_ 35, from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 150, and from _Pomm. -Jonquille_ and _Pomm. Héliotrope_ each 30; bergamot oil 8, Ceylon -cinnamon oil 2, Portugal oil 6, cedar oil 1, clove oil 2, tincture of -rose oil from Turkish rose oil and of orris root each 40, musk-root -tincture 8, musk tincture 10, ambergris tincture 3, vanilla tincture 5. - -_Extrait opopanax._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Orange_ 250 drachms, -and from _Pomm. Héliotrope_ 125; opopanax oil 10, Ceylon cinnamon oil -5, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 125, opopanax tincture 25, -orris-root tincture 62½, musk tincture 4, ambergris tincture 5. - -_Extrait patchouly._--Extract No. 1 from _Pomm. Acacia_ 100 drachms, -patchouli oil 4, clove oil and Portugal oil, each 2, rose-oil tincture -from Turkish rose oil 40, orris-root tincture 30, musk-root tincture -10, vitivert tincture 10, patchouli tincture 1. - -_Extrait millefleurs._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 250 drachms, -from _Pomm. Jonquille_ 100, _Pomm. Rose_ 75, _Pomm. Acacia_ 100, -_Pomm. Orange_ and _Pomm. Tubereuse_ each 150, and _Pomm. Cassie_ 100; -bergamot oil 20, rose geranium oil and Portugal oil each 15, oils -of angelica and sandal wood, each 5, rose-oil tincture from Turkish -rose oil 150, orris-root tincture 250, vanilla tincture 15, musk-root -tincture 35, tolu-balsam tincture 10, tinctures of storax and patchouli -each 5, musk tincture 30, civet tincture 25. - -_Extrait bouquet Victoria._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Rose_ 200 -drachms, _Pomm. Orange_ and _Pomm. Tubereuse_, each 100, _Pomm. -Jasmin_ 300, and _Pomm. Héliotrope_ 200; lemon oil 20, verbena oil -5, French rose geranium oil 10, musk tincture 20, tinctures of civet -and ambergris each 5, musk-root tincture 40, tolu-balsam tincture 20, -orris-root tincture 150. - -_Extrait kiss-me-quick._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Acacia_ and _Pomm. -Jonquille_ each 100 drachms, and _Pomm. Jasmin_ 40; bergamot oil 4, oil -of lemons 2, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 30, tinctures of -vitivert and angelica 8, ambergris tincture 4, civet tincture 2, musk -tincture 1. - -_Extrait mogadore._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 100 drachms, -from _Pomm. Jonquille_ and _Pomm. Acacia_, each 50, from _Pomm. Orange_ -40; bergamot oil 6, oil of lavender 1, French rose geranium oil 2, -tinctures of musk, ambergris, tolu balsam, and cumarin, each 10, -tincture of orris root 50. - -_Extrait bouquet Prince Albert._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jasmin_ -150 drachms, from _Pomm. Tubereuse_, _Pomm. Orange_, and _Pomm. Cassie_ -each 50, _Pomm. Rose_ 25, neroli oil 2, bergamot oil 4, musk tincture -2, tonka bean extract 4, angelica tincture 10, ambergris tincture 2. - -_Extrait musc._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Orange_, _Pomm. -Héliotrope_, and _Pomm. Cassie_ each 50 drachms; clove oil 4, cassia -oil 2, tinctures of abelmosk and musk-root each 10, opopanax tincture -4, musk tincture 30, civet tincture 5, orris-root tincture 50. - -_Extrait new-mown hay._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Réséda_ 200 -drachms, _Pomm. Rose_ 40, _Pomm. Cassie_ 80, _Pomm. Acacia_ 40; French -rose geranium oil 4, bergamot oil 10, myrrh oil 5, tonka-bean extract -30, vitivert tincture 10, musk-root tincture 16, benzoin tincture 4. - -_Extrait chypre._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Orange_ 60 drachms, -_Pomm. Jasmin_ 40, _Pomm. Cassie_ 110, _Pomm. Héliotrope_ 40; French -rose geranium oil 6, bergamot oil 2, cedar oil ⅗, benzoin tincture 4, -orris-root tincture 30, musk tincture 5, civet tincture 4, abelmosk -tincture 10. - -_Extrait maréchal._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Héliotrope_ and _Pomm. -Orange_ each 200 drachms, from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 75; oils of sandal wood -and cloves each 5, Portugal oil 10, cedar oil 1, rose-oil tincture from -Turkish rose oil 100, orris-root tincture 75, vitivert tincture 25, -civet tincture 10, musk tincture 20, bitter almond oil tincture 1½. - -_Extrait mousseline._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 250 drachms, -_Pomm. Rose_ 150, and _Pomm. Jonquille_, _Pomm. Héliotrope_, and _Pomm. -Cassie_, each 125; French rose geranium oil 12½, oil of cloves 10, -cassia oil 5, wintergreen oil 1, orris-root tincture 125, rose-oil -tincture from Turkish rose oil 100, musk tincture 12½, civet tincture -10, vitivert tincture 37½, abelmosk tincture 25. - -In compiling the abundant choice of receipts for _Extraits d'Odeurs_ -given above, the golden mean has been chosen in regard to the quality -of these odors, they, when carefully prepared, giving, at a moderate -cost of manufacture, a product which in most cases will satisfy the -demands of lovers of perfumes. To enable the perfumer, however, to -satisfy the highest demands attention is called to, and a brief -explanation given of, the so-called "_Extraits triple concentrés_." - -For the preparation of these stronger products, the employment of -a stronger foundation, _i. e._, of more highly saturated extracts -from French flower pomades, is required. For this purpose the French -perfumers prepare, under No. 30, flower pomades of all odors which are -exclusively used for concentrated _Extraits_. They are, of course, -correspondingly higher in price than those prepared from No. 18, which -have previously been treated of. - -The method of preparing the extracts from these pomades, No. 30, is the -same as previously described, the proportion of pomade to alcohol being -also the same; hence for 2 lbs. of pomade 1¾ quarts of alcohol are -to be used. - -The proportions of volatile oils and tinctures given in the above -receipts are also to be retained. The stronger extracts from the flower -pomades are the only measure in the preparation of the _Extraits -triple concentrés_, and such must be the case since the object of the -concentration of the _Extraits_ is thus completely attained by the -greater prominence of the flower odors from the _Extraits d'Odeurs_. - -For the preparation of _Extraits d'Odeurs_, the French perfumers also -manufacture a concentrated flower extract of the various odors. This -extract is simply dissolved in alcohol, the solution being effected -immediately, so that this method of preparing _Extraits d'Odeurs_ is -the simplest imaginable. However, the price of such extract (1000 -francs = $200 and more per kilogramme = 2.2 lb.) is a considerable -item, so that most perfumers will prefer the extracts from the flower -pomades as previously described. - - -EXTRAITS D'ODEURS, QUALITY II.--In addition to the _fine_ extracts -given in the preceding section, a small selection of quite cheap -receipts for quality II of such extracts is here given, the extracts -No. 2 offering sufficient material for their preparation. In the -introduction to the previous section, attention has been called to -the fact that quite useful tinctures may be prepared from substances -leaving behind solid residues, there being also on hand the second -extract from the flower pomades. - -Besides the alcohol, such tinctures and extracts cost only the small -trouble of treatment. For this second quality only half the quantity of -volatile oils prescribed for the best quality is used. Such tinctures, -from which a second extract cannot be had, may, for this purpose, be -diluted one-half with alcohol, which need not be of the best quality, -thus preparing a second quality of them. - -The process to be followed is illustrated by a selection from the first -_Extrait_ receipts which have been converted into _Extraits_ of quality -II. - -_Extrait violette II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Violette_ 500 -drachms, from _Pomm. Cassie_ 250; bergamot oil 2½, musk tincture No. -2, 1½, ambergris tincture No. 2, ¾, diluted with alcohol ¾, bitter -almond oil tincture No. 2, 1, orris-root tincture No. 2, 125. - -Add a small quantity of green coloring substance. - -_Extrait rose II._--Extract No. 2 from _Pomm. Rose_ 500 drachms, -African rose geranium oil 4, sandal-wood oil 3 drops, musk tincture -No. 2, 2½ drachms, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 250 drachms -diluted with an equal quantity of alcohol, which may be called rose -tincture No. 2. - -_Extrait réséda II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Réséda_ 750 drachms -and from _Pomm. Violette_ 100, bergamot oil 3½, African rose-geranium -oil 1, clove oil 1, musk tincture No. 2, 2, ambergris tincture ½ -diluted with alcohol ½. - -_Extrait ylang-ylang II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Jasmin_, _Pomm. -Jonquille_, _Pomm. Orange_, and _Pomm. Acacia_ each 250 drachms; -bergamot oil 3½, angelica oil 1¼, ylang-ylang tincture 250 diluted -with the equal quantity of alcohol, abelmosk No. 2, 25, tonka-bean -extract No. 2, 7½, musk tincture No. 2, 4, ambergris tincture 1¼ -diluted with the same quantity of alcohol. - -_Extrait new-mown hay II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Réséda_ 500 -drachms, from _Pomm. Rose_ 100, from _Pomm. Cassie_ 200 and _Pomm. -Acacia_ 100; palma rosa oil 5, bergamot oil 12½, myrrh oil 6, -tonka-bean extract No. 2, 75, vitivert tincture No. 2, 25, musk-root -tincture No. 2, 40, benzoin tincture 5 diluted with the same quantity -of alcohol. - -_Extrait chypre II._--Extracts No. 2, from _Pomm. Orange_ 150 drachms, -from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 100, _Pomm. Cassie_ 275, and _Pomm. Héliotrope_ -100; palma rosa oil 7½, bergamot oil 2½, cedar oil ¾, orris-root -tincture No. 2, 75, musk tincture No. 2, 12½, abelmosk tincture No. 2, -25, civet tincture 5 diluted with alcohol 5, benzoin tincture 5 diluted -with alcohol 5. - -_Extrait ess. bouquet II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Acacia_ and -_Pomm. Cassie_ each 100, from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 375, _Pomm. Rose_ 75, -_Pomm. Orange_ 250; bergamot oil 20, Ceylon cinnamon oil and clove oil -each 2½, African rose geranium oil 5, sandal-wood oil 1¾, licari oil -2, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 37½ diluted with an equal -quantity of alcohol, orris-root tincture No. 2, 50, ambergris tincture -5 diluted with an equal quantity of alcohol, civet tincture 5 diluted -with an equal quantity of alcohol, musk tincture No. 2, 15, musk-root -tincture No. 2, 37½, benzoin tincture 7½ diluted with an equal quantity -of alcohol. - -_Extrait muguet II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Jonquille_ 750 -drachms, _Pomm. Jasmin_ 100, _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 200 and _Pomm. Acacia_ -and _Pomm. Orange_ each 100; bergamot oil 3½, oil of lemons 1¼, -angelica oil 2 drops, storax tincture 2½ drachms diluted with an -equal quantity of alcohol, musk tincture No. 2, 2½, vanilla tincture -5, ambergris tincture 1, diluted with an equal quantity of alcohol, -ylang-ylang tincture 50 diluted with alcohol 50, wintergreen tincture -12½ diluted with alcohol 12½, bitter-almond oil 1¼ diluted with alcohol -1¼. - -_Extrait bouquet Victoria II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Rose_ 100 -drachms, _Pomm. Orange_ and _Pomm. Tubereuse_ each 50; _Pomm. Jasmin_ -150, _Pomm. Héliotrope_ 100; lemon oil 5, verbena oil 1½, African rose -geranium oil 2½, musk tincture No. 2, 10, musk-root tincture No. 2, 20, -orris-root tincture No. 2, 75, civet tincture 1¼ diluted with alcohol -1¼, ambergris tincture 1¼ diluted with alcohol 1¼, tolu-balsam tincture -5 diluted with alcohol 5. - -_Extrait spring flower II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Jasmin_, -_Pomm. Cassie_, _Pomm. Orange_, _Pomm. Jonquille_, _Pomm. Tubereuse_ -and _Pomm. Violette_, each 100 drachms, from _Pomm. Rose_ 50, _Pomm. -Réséda_ 100, and _Pomm. Héliotrope_ and _Acacia_, each 50; neroli -oil 1¼, bergamot oil 2½, vitivert oil 13 drops, rose-oil tincture -from Turkish rose oil 25 drachms, diluted with alcohol 25, musk-root -tincture No. 2, 12½, musk tincture No. 2, 12½, orris-root tincture No. -2, 25, civet tincture 1¼ diluted with alcohol 1¼. - -_Extrait ixora II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 125 drachms, -from _Pomm. Cassie_ and _Pomm. Réséda_ each 175; bergamot oil 2½, -orris-root tincture No. 2, 125, musk tincture No. 2, 10, benzoin -tincture 12½ diluted with alcohol 12½. - -_Extrait Frangipani II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Cassie_ 375 -drachms, and _Pomm. Jasmin_ 125; African rose geranium oil 12, cassia -oil 2½, licari oil 3½, sandal-wood oil 1¼, orris-root tincture No. 2, -250, angelica tincture No. 2, 20, musk tincture No. 2, 12½, storax -tincture 6 diluted with alcohol 6½. - -_Cologne water, eau de Cologne._--Owing to its excellent properties, -Cologne water is, without doubt, one of the most popular perfumes. -It was invented early in the eighteenth century, and is perhaps the -only perfume which has kept its reputation for so long a time. It was -formerly employed as a medicine in all imaginable diseases, and even -now is in some cases successfully used in slight ailments, such as -headache, nausea, etc. - -The success and reputation of Cologne water are the natural results -of a good product prepared with a thorough knowledge of the subject. -However, in order to be enabled to impart to Cologne water its -generally known excellent qualities, it is necessary to have a thorough -knowledge of the materials used, as well as to understand the method of -fabrication, and the proper treatment of all. - -For the preparation of actually good Cologne water employment of the -best materials is the first condition. The alcohol must be pure, _i. -e._, free from fusel oil, and 95 to 96 per cent. strong, so as to -effect a ready and complete solution of the volatile oils. The latter -also should be of the best quality and proper age, _i. e._, neither -too young nor too old. If too young or too recently distilled, the -aroma is not thoroughly developed, and if, on the other hand, too -old, they have lost the greater portion of their aroma, are thickly -fluid, acquire a dark coloration, and are finally converted into a -resinous substance in which condition they are entirely unfit for finer -products. A cool and dry cellar is required for storing volatile oils, -and they must also be protected from air and sunlight. - -Regarding the durability of the volatile oils used in the preparation -of Cologne water, the following may be said:-- - -_Bergamot oil_ is quite durable; in well-closed bottles stored in a -cool cellar it keeps quite well for 3 to 4 years. _Oil of lemons_ is, -however, very sensitive, and has to be especially protected against -heat, by which it is readily decomposed and, so to say, turns sour. -Freshly-distilled _neroli oil_ should never be used, it acquiring its -proper aroma only after being stored for about 2 years; on the other -hand, it should not be too old. When 6 to 8 years old, it shows a -tendency to rancidity, which can, however, be prevented by mixing it at -the proper time with an equal quantity of alcohol of the best quality. -_Petit-grain oil_ is apt to spoil when kept for several years, and -hence it is not advisable to have too large a supply of it on hand. -Besides the French variety of this volatile oil, there has existed for -several years past another kind, namely the _Paraguay petit-grain oil_, -which is about one-half cheaper than the French. While some consider -both oils as equally good, the French product no doubt deserves the -preference. Of _lavender oil_ only the best French oil, especially made -in France for the preparation of _Eau de Cologne_, should be used. The -price of the English Mitcham lavender oil, being six times that of -the French oil, is simply excessive. Of _rosemary oil_, an especially -fine quality for Cologne water, which can be highly recommended, is -also manufactured in France. Of _balm oil_ only the best German product -should be taken. The three varieties of volatile oils last mentioned -keep for years, especially when kept in hermetically-closed bottles in -a cool place protected from the sun. - -Rose water and orange-blossom water also need careful treatment, the -bottles containing them requiring to be well stoppered and kept in a -cool place. These waters being liable to spoil, the supply of them -should be renewed from year to year. As regards the compounding of -the volatile oils, it is advisable to mix them in a capacious glass -flask, add at least an equal weight of alcohol of the best quality, -shake thoroughly, let the mixture stand about 14 days, and then in the -apparatus incorporate it with the required quantity of alcohol. - -When the alcohol and volatile oils are intimately mixed, the mixture -is allowed to stand quietly for about 14 days, when solution of the -volatile oils will be complete. Now add, with vigorous agitation, -the rose water and the orange-blossom water, and let the whole stand -quietly to become clear. - -Cologne water thus carefully prepared answers all demands. Special -attention is here called to the fact that all manipulation by the -addition of fixing or conspicuous substances is injudicious. An -addition of tincture of musk or civet should particularly be avoided. -Nervous people immediately detect such additions, even if present only -in very small quantities, and in most cases refuse the Cologne water -containing them. - -Experience having shown that all alcoholic perfumes develop their -proper aroma only after storing for some time, provision must be made -to have always a sufficient supply of Cologne water on hand. It is best -to keep it in large glass balloons in a cool cellar. Wooden vessels -are impracticable on account of their permeability and other evils. -Metallic vessels, if used, should be tinned. Vessels defective in this -respect, or tinned with tin containing lead, exert an injurious effect -upon the aroma of the water. In the latter case, lead is dissolved, -even if only in small quantities, and a dirty precipitate injurious to -the odor of the Cologne water is formed. - -The filtering of the Cologne water is best effected through white -filtering paper and a glass funnel; the paper, however, should not -have been bleached with chlorine, the odor of the latter being readily -perceived and having an injurious effect upon the aroma of the water. -Filtering should be avoided as much as possible by carefully decanting -off the clear water and filtering the sediment only. Filtering through -charcoal, magnesia, or other clarifying agents, should not be made use -of for fine perfumes, their odor being injured by all such means. - -In the following a selection of receipts for Cologne water is given; -it is, however, especially mentioned that only good, pure materials -must be used even for the inferior qualities. A receipt for the now -fashionable "Maiglöckchen Eau de Cologne" is also given. - -_Cologne water, quality I._--Bring into a large glass balloon 95 to -96 per cent. alcohol of the best quality 7.9 gallons, lemon oil 14.11 -ozs., bergamot oil 15, neroli oil 4.23, French extra lavender oil 1.05 -oz., rosemary oil 0.7, best German balm oil 0.42; mix thoroughly, and -after 14 days add best orange-blossom water and rose water each 2.64 -quarts. Mix again thoroughly, and then let stand until wanted for use. - -_Cologne water, quality II._--Bring into a large glass balloon 95 to -96 per cent. alcohol of the best quality 7.9 gallons, lemon oil 10.58 -ozs., bergamot oil 12.34, neroli oil 1.76, French extra lavender oil -0.8, rosemary oil 0.63, finest German balm oil 0.35, French petit-grain -oil 0.8; mix thoroughly, and after 14 days add best orange-blossom -water and rose water each 2.64 quarts. Mix again thoroughly, and then -let stand until wanted for use. - -_Cologne water, quality III._--Bring into a large glass balloon 95 to -96 per cent. alcohol of the best quality 7.9 gallons, lemon oil 7.05 -ozs., bergamot oil 7.94, Portugal oil 3.52, French petit-grain oil -1.58, finest rosemary oil 0.52, lavender oil 0.7, orange-blossom water -and rose water each 1.58 quarts, distilled water 2.11 quarts. Proceed -in the same manner as given for qualities I and II. - -_Cologne water, quality IV._--Bring into a large glass balloon alcohol -free from fusel oil 7.9 gallons, lavender oil 2.64 ozs., Portugal -oil 2.64, petit-grain oil 0.7, rosemary oil 0.52, bergamot oil 3.52, -lemon oil 3.52, distilled water 7.9 quarts. If this quality, after -standing for some weeks, should not become clear, use some magnesia in -filtering, or use less water. - -_Cologne water, quality V._--Bring into a glass balloon alcohol free -from fusel oil 7.9 gallons, Portugal oil 0.88 oz., rosemary oil 0.88, -lavender oil, bergamot oil, and lemon oil each 1.76. After standing for -14 days, add 7.9 quarts of distilled water. Proceed in the same manner -as given for quality IV. - -_Maiglöckchen Eau de Cologne._--95 to 96 per cent. alcohol of the -finest quality 10.56 quarts, bergamot oil and lemon oil each 3.52 ozs., -neroli oil 0.7, French extra lavender oil 0.21, rosemary oil 0.14, best -German balm oil 0.7, ylang-ylang oil 0.17, _maiglöckchen_ (lily of the -valley) extract 2.11 pints. - -Dissolve the 0.17 oz. of ylang-ylang oil by itself in 0.8 pint of -alcohol of the best quality, and when the solution is entirely clear -add it to the rest in the balloon. After standing for 14 days add -carefully orange-blossom water and rose water each 1.05 pints; shake -thoroughly and let the mixture stand quietly until perfectly clear. - -_Various other receipts for Cologne water._--I. Bergamot oil 2 drachms, -oil of lemon 2 drachms, oil of origanum 6 drops, oil of rosemary 20 -drops, alcohol 1 pint, orange-flower water 1 oz. - -II. Bergamot oil 14 parts, citron oil 34, oil of neroli (petale) 20, -oil of neroli (bigarade) 7, rosemary oil 14, grape spirit 6000. - -III. Cologne spirits 3 quarts, oils of rosemary, bergamot, cedrat, and -lemon each 2 drachms, oil of neroli 1 drachm, water (warm) 2 pints; -mix, filter until clear. - -IV. Cologne spirits 3 quarts, oil of lemon 5 drachms, oil of bergamot 4 -drachms, Portugal oil 3¾ drachms, neroli oil ¾ drachm, petit-grain -oil and rosemary oil each ½ drachm, lavender oil 25 drops, oil of -cloves 6 drops, extract _Pomm. jasmine_ 4 ozs., water (warm) 32 ozs.; -mix. - -V. Cologne spirits 1 gallon, rosemary oil ½ oz., lemon oil 1 oz., -lavender oil 1½ ozs., cinnamon oil 20 drops, warm water 1 quart; mix. - -_Eau de Lavande._--For _eau de lavande_, but two receipts are given: -_Eau de vie de Lavande double ambrée_ and _eau de Lavande double_, the -former being a very agreeable perfume for toilet purposes, and is used -as an addition to wash-water as well as to baths and for fumigating. On -account of its balsamic constituents, _eau de Lavande ambrée_ in being -manufactured cannot be mixed with water, as the latter would produce -an emulsion which cannot be removed. _Eau de Lavande double_ is used -for the toilet, in the wash-water, or the bath. It is very popular, its -action upon the skin and nerves being refreshing and stimulating. - -_Eau de vie de Lavande double ambrée._--Alcohol of the best quality -5.18 quarts, best quality of lavender oil 3.52 ozs., French rose -geranium oil 0.7, oils of cassia, bergamot, lemon, and French petit -grain each 0.88, Peru balsam 5.29, orris-root tincture 2.11 quarts, -ambergris tincture 5.29 ozs., musk tincture 0.28, storax tincture 8.81, -tolu-balsam tincture 5.29, benzoin tincture 10.58. No water should be -added. - -_Eau de Lavande double._--Best quality of alcohol 10.56 quarts, best -lavender oil 8.81 ozs., Portugal oil and bergamot oil each 1.76. After -14 days add 2.11 pints of orange-blossom water. - -_Aqua mellis._--Coriander seed 7 lbs., cloves 12 ozs., storax 8 ozs., -nutmegs (bruised) 8 ozs., lemon-peel 10 ozs., calamus 6 ozs., proof -spirit 15 pints, water 8 pints. - -Macerate for a month in a closed vessel, then distil 22 pints, and to -the distillate add: Orange-flower water 5 pints, rose oil 24 drops, -ambergris 1 grain, vanilla 2 ozs. Macerate for 8 days and filter. - -_Eau de Lisbonne._--Lemon oil 2¼ ozs., Portugal oil 4½ ozs., rose oil -4¼ drachms, alcohol 5 quarts. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -DRY PERFUMES. - - -In ancient times dry perfumes were almost exclusively used, but, -independent of fumigating agents, which will be considered later on, -the consumption of dry or solid perfumes is at present a limited -one. Sachet powders (_poudres pour sachets_) are, however, still -manufactured in large quantities. The preparation of solid perfumes -with the assistance of paraffine has been recently commenced, but up -to the present time such perfumes have not become of any importance. -Smelling salts may also be classed among the dry perfumes. - - -SACHET POWDERS.--Sachet powders (_poudres pour sachets_) are generally -put into silk or satin bags or into ornamental paper envelopes and are -useful for perfuming clothes, drawers, trunks, desks, letter paper, etc. - -The incorporation of the powders with bags or envelopes is effected -by dividing them between thin layers of cotton, bringing the cotton -together with the powder in fine tissue paper into the shape of the -respective bag, cushion, etc., and then inclosing them in the bag or -envelope. - -A selection of receipts for such powders is here given. Their -manufacture is not difficult; however, the weighing off of the -constituents should be conscientiously done, and in mixing the powders -with the volatile oils, etc., care should be had not to cause any -unnecessary dust and consequent loss of powder. After mixing, the -powder is passed through a sieve. - -_Sachet à la rose._--Ground rose leaves, ground rose wood and -pulverized starch each 50 drachms, Turkish rose oil 1½, rose-geranium -oil 2½, oil of cloves 1, bergamot oil 2½, musk tincture 1. - -_Sachet à la violette._--Ground orris root 125 drachms, ground lavender -flowers and pulverized starch each 50, liquid orris-root oil[21] 2½, -sandal-wood oil ½, musk tincture 2, extrait violette 25. - - [21] The so-called liquid orris-root oil is not pure orris-root oil, - but generally a distillate of orris-root with bergamot oil; there - are, however, also products in which the orris root is distilled with - copaiba balsam oil and cedar oil. - -_Héliotrope sachet powder._--Ground lavender flowers 50 drachms, -ground orris root and ground rose leaves each 25, ground benzoin 10, -pulverized starch 50, bergamot oil 10, rose geranium oil 2½, oil -of cloves and musk tincture each 1½, vanilla tincture 12½, extrait -héliotrope 25, oil of bitter almonds 2 drops. - -_Ylang-ylang sachet powder._--Ground starch 100 drachms, orris-root -powder 25, ground lavender flowers 12½, ground vitivert root and ground -rose wood each 25, bergamot oil 2½, ylang-ylang oil 1, tinctures of -musk and of cumarin each 1½, extrait ylang-ylang 20. - -_Jockey club sachet._--Ground orris root, ground rose leaves and ground -rose wood each 50 drachms, ground lavender flowers 25, African rose -geranium oil 5, oils of Ceylon cinnamon and bergamot each 2½, oils of -cloves and cedar each 1, musk tincture 2½, civet tincture 1, extrait -jockey club 22½. - -_Sachet aux millefleurs._--Ground starch 50 drachms, ground orris -root, ground lavender flowers, ground rose wood, and exhausted vanilla -pulverized, each 50 drachms, pulverized cloves 20, bergamot oil and -African geranium oil each 2½, verbena oil 1, tincture of benzoin and -musk root each 5, musk tincture 5. - -_Lily of the valley sachet powder._--Pulverized starch 50 drachms, -ground orris root 25, ground lavender flowers and ground rose wood -each 12½, ground vitivert root and ground benzoin each 25, bergamot -oil 5, wintergreen oil 2, ylang-ylang oil and angelica oil each ½, -bitter almond oil 2 drops, storax tincture 5 drachms, musk tincture 1½, -extrait muguet 25. - -_Patchouli sachet powder._--Ground patchouli leaves 100, ground rose -leaves and ground lavender flowers, each 25, patchouli oil 2½, oil of -cloves 1, bergamot oil and African geranium oil each 2½. - -_Frangipani sachet powder._--Pulverized starch 25 drachms, ground orris -root 75, ground rose leaves 50, ground lavender flowers 25, Portugal -oil 5, petit-grain oil and African geranium oil, 2½, Ceylon cinnamon -oil 1½, musk tincture 2½, civet tincture 1½, tinctures of cumarin and -vitivert each 10. - -_Victoria sachet powder._--Ground lavender flowers 50 drachms, ground -rose wood and ground rose leaves each 25, ground orange peel 12½, -ground benzoin 25, ground vitivert root 12½, Turkish rose oil 1, -bergamot oil 2½, oils of cloves and verbena each 1, musk tincture 1½, -civet tincture 1. - -_Réséda sachet powder._--Ground orris root 100 drachms, ground rose -leaves 50, ground rose wood 25, clove oil, African geranium oil, and -bergamot oil each 2½, musk-root tincture 10, vanilla tincture 5, musk -tincture 1, extrait réséda 25. - -_Musk sachet powder._--Ground musk root, ground exhausted musk sacs, -and ground lavender flowers, each 50 drachms, ground benzoin 25, cassia -oil, palma-rose oil, and clove oil each 2½, musk tincture 22½. - -_Ess-bouquet sachet powder._--Ground rose wood and ground lavender -flowers each 50 drachms, ground vitivert root 25, ground opopanax 12½, -ground orris root 25, bergamot oil and lemon oil each 2½, clove oil -1, Ceylon cinnamon oil 1½, African geranium oil 2½, sandal-wood oil -and licari oil each 1, musk tincture 2½, civet tincture 1½, extrait -ess-bouquet 25. - -_New-mown hay sachet powder._--Pulverized starch 25 drachms, ground -rose leaves and ground lavender flowers, each 50, ground orris root and -ground benzoin, each 25, bergamot oil 5, angelica oil and Java cananga -oil each 1½, tonka-bean extract 7½, musk tincture 1½, vitivert tincture -7½. - -_Orange sachet powder._--Ground orange peels 100 drachms, ground lemon -peels 50, ground lavender flowers 25, Portugal oil 10, neroli oil and -petit grain oil each 1½, bergamot oil 2½, musk-tincture 1½, musk-root -tincture 10. - - -SOLID PERFUMES WITH PARAFFINE. The solid perfumes simply consist of -hard paraffine, which, when melted, is perfumed with a corresponding -quantity of any desired perfume-essence and poured into moulds. A few -mixtures for such perfumes are here given:-- - -_White rose._--Rose geranium oil and bergamot oil each 10 drachms, -patchouli oil and oil of cloves 1½. - -_Ess-bouquet._--Coriander oil 1 drachm, oil of cloves 7, nutmeg oil -3.5, lavender oil 10, sandal-wood oil 3.5, bergamot oil 30, rose oil -and rose-geranium oil each 2, neroli oil 0.6. - -_Lavender odor._--Lavender oil 50 drachms, bergamot oil 25, cinnamon -oil 0.3, geranium oil 2.5, neroli oil 0.5. - -_Eau de Cologne._--Bergamot oil and lime oil each 30 drachms, lemon oil -and neroli oil each 15, rosemary oil 5, rose geranium oil 0.6. - - -SMELLING SALTS. Smelling salts are ammoniacal perfumes in a solid form, -Preston salt (_sel de Preston_) being one of the most popular. It is -generally prepared by intimately rubbing together in a porcelain mortar -equal parts of sal ammoniac or ammonium carbonate and lime freshly -slaked to a powder, and perfuming the mixture, according to the quality -of volatile salts desired, with a finer or inferior perfume. - -William W. Bartlett prepares Preston salt without lime according to -the following receipt: Powdered chloride of ammonium 1½ ozs., powdered -carbonate of potassium 1 oz. 6 drachms, coarsely powdered carbonate of -ammonium 3 drachms, oils of clove and bergamot each 10 drops. - -Mr. Bartlett also gives a formula for a "_menthol pungent_" which is -quite agreeable to the smell and a novelty for headache and faintness. -It is prepared by leaving out the essential oils in the above formula -and substituting in their place 1 drachm of menthol. - -_White smelling_ salt consists essentially of perfumed carbonate of -ammonia. There are several receipts for it, one frequently used being -as follows: Mix in a capacious porcelain mortar 2.2 lbs. of ammonium -carbonate with 1.1 lb. of ammonia, cover the mortar and let it stand -quietly. In the course of a few days the contents have been converted -into normal carbonate of ammonia. The latter is reduced to a coarse -powder and perfumed with bergamot oil 0.56 drachm, lavender oil 0.9, -nutmeg oil, clove oil, and rose oil each 0.28, cinnamon oil 2.82. - -The incorporation of the volatile oils is effected by first triturating -about 1/10 of the salt with the volatile oils and then gradually -incorporating with this perfumed mass the rest of the salt, a uniform -distribution of the odor being in this manner effected. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - -FUMIGATING ESSENCES, PASTILLES, POWDERS, ETC. - - -Fumigating agents are divided into liquid and dry, the first being -alcoholic solutions, and perhaps most popular. They consist of -extractions from resins, balsams, leaves, flowers, seeds, wood, and -roots, compounded with volatile oils, alcohol, and alcoholic extracts -from French flower pomades. - -It should be the aim of the perfumer to compound these substances so -that a harmonious blending together of all the ingredients is attained. -The object of fumigating living rooms, sleeping rooms, and sick -chambers is not only to make abode in these rooms more agreeable by an -attempt to cover the disagreeable odors, but chiefly to render them -innoxious, thus combining the useful with the agreeable. - -For several years past a strong prejudice against fumigating has been -developed. Such prejudice may be justified in certain cases, especially -when the fumigating agents contain musk or are otherwise incorrectly -composed. An addition of musk, even in very small quantities, causes -nervous persons to dislike fumigating agents containing it, because it -is a well-known fact that musk excites the nerves in a high degree, and -hence in most cases fumigating with agents containing it does more harm -than good. - -The mode of fumigating has also to be taken into consideration. It -is, for instance, entirely incorrect to place the fumigating agent -upon very hot iron, a hot stovepipe, or glowing coals, because in -evaporating upon hot iron, it leaves behind an empyreumatic, pungent -odor excitatory to cough, while the actual aroma is lost and thus the -object of fumigating is frustrated. - -To derive the best effects from the fumigating agent it should be -placed upon a moderately warm article so that it will slowly evaporate. -Liquid fumigating agents may also be mixed in a porcelain vessel with -distilled water. By placing the vessel upon a warm stove, evaporation -proceeds at a still slower rate, because the fumigating agent can only -evaporate together with the water, whereby its aroma becomes still more -agreeable. The use of rose water or orange water instead of distilled -water considerably enhances the success of fumigating. - -The so-called atomizers may here be mentioned. They are very -practicable for cold fumigating, _i. e._, for the distribution of pine -odor, Cologne water, etc. On account of their content of musk the -atomization of _Extraits d'Odeurs_ in the presence of nervous people -cannot be recommended. - -The dry fumigating agents, such as powders, pastilles, paper, and -lacquer, are less popular than the fluid, it being necessary for the -purpose of fumigating to place them upon hot articles, heat them, -or burn them. These manipulations develop more or less smoke, which -frequently exerts a disagreeable effect upon the respiratory organs. -The most injurious of these methods of hot fumigation is that by means -of hot coals, whereby the aroma of the fumigating agent is largely -destroyed, and the very injurious gas emanating from the coals is -inhaled. A heated piece of sheet-iron is, however, very suitable for -fumigation by means of powder or lacquer. Scatter the powder upon it or -coat it with the lacquer. - -Several approved receipts for liquid and dry fumigating agents are here -given. - - -FUMIGATING ESSENCES AND VINEGARS. Great care should be exercised in -making the following receipts for liquid fumigating agents. After -mixing, shake thoroughly, and let the product stand quietly for at -least several weeks, the aroma of all alcoholic perfumes being improved -by storing for some time. It need scarcely be said that alcohol of the -finest quality is to be used, since, if it contains fusel oil, the -attainment of a fine product is absolutely impossible. To decrease the -cost of manufacture, it might be permissible to increase the proportion -of alcohol, but an inferior quality of it should, under no conditions, -be employed. - -_Rose-flower fumigating essence._--Alcohol, extract No. 1, from -French-rose pomade and benzoin tincture each 1 quart, musk-root -tincture No. 1, 8¾ ozs., Turkish rose oil and clove oil each 2¾ -drachms, French rose-geranium oil 5½ drachms. Dissolve the rose oil in -the other volatile oils. - -_Flower fumigating essence, héliotrope._--Alcohol and extract No. 1 -from French héliotrope pomade each 1 quart, vanilla tincture No. 1 and -orris-root tincture each 1 pint, tinctures of benzoin and tolu balsam -each ½ pint, musk-root tincture No. 1, 7 ozs., cumarin tincture 5¼ -ozs., Portugal oil 1 oz., French rose-geranium oil 11¼ drachms, clove -oil 5½ drachms, best lavender oil 11¼ drachms. - -_Violet flower fumigating essence._--Alcohol 1 quart, extracts No. 1 -from French-violet pomade and cassie pomade each 1 pint, orris-root -tincture No. 1, 1 quart, benzoin tincture 1 pint, storax tincture ¼ -pint, abelmosk tincture No. 1, 4¼ ozs., ambergris tincture 11¼ drachms, -orris-root oil 2¾ drachms, bergamot oil 11¼ drachms, best lavender -oil 5½ drachms, myrrh oil 1½ drachms, basil oil 2¾ drachms. - -_Oriental-flower fumigating essence._--Alcohol 1 quart, extract from -French-rose pomade 17½ ozs., extracts from French-jasmine pomade, -jonquille pomade, héliotrope pomade and cassie pomades each 7 ozs., -vanilla tincture 7 ozs., tinctures of orris root, tonka beans, and musk -root each 3½ ozs., benzoin tincture 8½ ozs., tolu-balsam tincture 4¼ -ozs., storax tincture 5¼ ozs., olibanum tincture 3½ ozs., ambergris -tincture and bergamot oil each 1¾ ozs., Ceylon cinnamon oil 5½ -drachms, best lavender oil 11 ozs., Turkish rose oil and clove oil each -5½ drachms, neroli oil 2¼ drachms, Peru balsam 3½ ozs. - -_Pine odor_ (_for atomizing_) No. 1.--Alcohol 2 quarts, pine oil (from -_Pinus picea_) 7 ozs., bergamot oil 5½ drachms. - -_Pine odor_ (_for atomizing_) No. 2.--Alcohol 2 quarts, dwarf-pine oil -(from _Pinus pumilio_) 5¼ ozs., oil of lemons 5½ drachms. - -_Juniper odor._--Alcohol 2 quarts, extra fine juniper berry oil 3½ -ozs., best lavender oil 5½ drachms, juniper tincture 8¾ ozs. - -Pine odor or juniper odor may also be mixed in a vessel with water, and -thus used for fumigating. - -_Fumigating balsam._--Alcohol 3 quarts, orris-root tincture 1 quart, -tinctures of benzoin, tolu balsam, and storax each 17½ ozs., olibanum -tincture 8¾ ozs., tinctures of abelmosk and musk-root each 3½ ozs., -vanilla tincture 1¾ ozs., Peru balsam 4¼ ozs., bergamot oil 1¾ -ozs., lemon oil 14 drachms, African rose geranium oil 11¼ drachms, -clove oil and cassia oil each 14 drachms, petit-grain oil 11¼ drachms, -fine lavender oil 1¾ ozs. - -_Fumigating water._--Alcohol 10 quarts, orris-root tincture No. 2, -tinctures of storax, benzoin, and tolu balsam each 1 quart, abelmosk -tincture No. 2, 7 ozs., olibanum tincture 8¾ ozs., Peru balsam and -lavender oil each 3½ ozs., cassia oil and bergamot oil each 1 oz., -thyme oil ½ oz., clove oil and palmarosa oil each 1 oz. - -_Fumigating vinegar._--Alcohol 2 quarts, orris-root tincture 1 quart, -benzoin tincture 1 pint, tinctures of tolu balsam and storax each ½ -pint, musk-root tincture 4¼ ozs., tinctures of vitivert and vanilla -each 3½ ozs., Peru balsam 1¾ ozs., lavender oil and clove oil each -8¼ drachms, Ceylon cinnamon oil and African rose-geranium oil each 5½ -drachms, acetic acid 4¼ ozs. - - -FUMIGATING POWDERS. The lavender flowers, marigold flowers (_Calendula -officinalis_), rose leaves, etc., used in the preparation of fumigating -powders are not pulverized, but so far comminuted with a suitable -instrument as to form a distinctly colored mixture. To dissolve the -volatile oils, they are thoroughly mixed with the alcoholic extracts -mentioned in the receipts. The perfume thus obtained is finally -incorporated with the powders by rubbing together with the hands. To -prevent loss of perfume, it is mixed with the powders in a porcelain or -enamelled vessel. - -_Ordinary fumigating powder._--Lavender flowers, marigold flowers, -corn flowers, rose leaves, rasped orris root each 2 lbs., cloves and -cinnamon each 3½ ozs., rasped sanders wood 17½ ozs., rasped cedar -wood 8¾ ozs., fumigating balsam 17½ ozs., bergamot oil and African -rose-geranium oil each 1¾ ozs., lavender oil 11¼ drachms. - -Besides the above-mentioned dry constituents, the residues from -odoriferous substances, such as vanilla, orris root, vitivert root, -juniper berries, etc., employed in the preparation of tinctures may be -used for ordinary fumigating powders. - -_Rose fumigating powder._--Rose leaves and rose wood each 2 lbs., -lavender flowers and sanders wood each 1 lb., corn flowers ½ -lb., tinctures of musk root and abelmosk each 1¾ ozs., African -rose-geranium oil 1 oz., Turkish rose oil 2¾ drachms, bergamot oil -8¼ drachms, clove oil 2¾ drachms, nutmeg oil 1½ drachms, extract -from French rose pomade 3½ ozs. - -_Violet fumigating powder._--Rasped orris root 4 lbs., lavender flowers -and rasped sanders wood each 1 lb., orris-root tincture, abelmosk -tincture, and bergamot oil each 1¾ ozs., orris-root oil, basil oil, -and Ceylon-cinnamon oil each 2¾ drachms, extract from French cassie -pomade 1¾ ozs. - -_Orange fumigating powder._--Orange peels 4 lbs., orange flowers and -marigold flowers each 1 lb., musk-root tincture and Portugal oil each -1¾ ozs., petit-grain oil 5½ drachms, bergamot oil 11 drachms, -extract from French orange flower pomade 3½ ozs. - -_New-mown hay fumigating powder._--Lavender flowers 2 lbs., -rose-leaves, rasped sanders wood, and rasped orris root each 1 lb., -powdered benzoin, Roman camomile, curled mint and balm each ½ lb., -exhausted tonka beans 1 lb., patchouli leaves and bergamot oil each -11¼ drachms, African rose-geranium oil 8¼ drachms, tonka-bean extract -and abelmosk tincture each 1¾ ozs., extract from French réséda -pomade 3½ ozs. - - -FUMIGATING PAPER. Bring into a capacious shallow dish a quantity of -fumigating balsam and repeatedly draw sheets of card-board through it, -allowing the sheets to thoroughly drain off and dry after each drawing -through. After repeating the operation about four times, the sheets -will be sufficiently perfumed and are then coated by means of a fine -brush with a solution of gum-arabic in rose water. This gives to the -sheets a dull lustre, while the thin layer of gum-arabic also prevents -the volatilization of the aroma. The sheets thus perfumed are cut up -into pieces the size of a playing card, and six to twelve such pieces -put up in an envelope. For use the paper is not ignited, but only -heated. With one such piece a room can be several times perfumed. It -may be remarked that before perfuming, the name of the firm, directions -for use, etc., are generally printed upon the card-board. - - -FUMIGATING PASTILLES. Some perfumers make more or less a specialty of -the manufacture of fumigating pastilles. They are generally of a red or -black color, different perfumes, names and qualities. - -To prepare them, the finely pulverized substances are passed through a -sieve and mixed in a capacious dish with the volatile oils, tinctures, -etc. The mixture of powder and perfume is then made into a mass with -a mucilage of gum tragacanth, which is thoroughly kneaded to make it -homogeneous. - -The saltpetre given in the receipts is dissolved by itself in -distilled water and last of all added to the mass. Its object is to -keep the pastilles burning after ignition. - -As regards the mucilage of gum-tragacanth, it may be said that it -readily spoils, especially in summer. When it begins to get watery -it is already useless and soon acquires a bad odor; by decomposition -it loses its cementing power. Hence only a sufficient quantity for -immediate use should be made at one time. - -The moulding of the pastilles is very simple. A number of tin cones -into which the mass is pressed are used for the purpose. After standing -for a short time the pastilles are taken from the moulds and allowed to -dry. - -_Ordinary red fumigating pastilles._--Pulverized sanders wood and -pulverized Sumatra benzoin each 2 lbs., finely pulverized sandarac -and olibanum each 1 lb., saltpetre 4¼ ozs. dissolved in distilled -water; clove oil 5½ drachms, palmarosa oil 11 drachms, lavender oil 14 -drachms. Mucilage of gum-tragacanth as much as required. - -_Ordinary black fumigating pastilles._--Charcoal 2 lbs., finely -pulverized Sumatra benzoin 2 lbs., finely pulverized olibanum 1 lb., -saltpetre 4¼ ozs., dissolved in distilled water; lavender oil, cassia -oil, and citronella oil each 11¼ drachms. Mucilage of gum-tragacanth as -much as required. - -_Musk fumigating pastilles._--Pulverized genuine linden charcoal 2 -lbs., pulverized musk root and orris root each 1 lb., pulverized -sanders wood, Siam benzoin, and abelmosk each ½ lb., saltpetre 4¼ -ozs., dissolved in distilled water; Tonkin musk 1½ drachms, triturated -in distilled water; African-rose geranium oil, Portugal and cedar oil -each 5½ drachms. Mucilage of gum-tragacanth as much as required. - -_Rose fumigating pastilles._--Pulverized sanders wood 2 lbs., powdered -sandarac and Siam benzoin each 1 lb., carmine, dissolved in rose -water, 1½ drachms; saltpetre 3½ ozs., bergamot oil 5½ drachms, clove -oil, Turkish rose oil, and French rose-geranium oil each 2.75 drachms. -Gum-tragacanth dissolved in rose water as much as required. - -_Violet fumigating pastilles._--Powdered orris root 2 lbs., pulverized -sanders wood 1 lb., pulverized Siam benzoin and opopanax each ½ lb., -saltpetre 3½ ozs., dissolved in distilled water; tolu-balsam tincture -3½ ozs., orris-root oil and bergamot oil each 5½ drachms, myrrh oil -2¾ drachms. Mucilage of gum-tragacanth as much as required. - -_Millefleurs fumigating pastilles._--Pulverized linden charcoal 2 lbs., -pulverized sanders wood, Siam benzoin, and orris root each 1 lb., -pulverized olibanum ½ lb.; saltpetre 4¼ ozs., dissolved in distilled -water; bergamot oil and African rose-geranium oil each 14 drachms, -Ceylon cinnamon oil, Paraguay petit-grain oil, and juniper-berry oil -each 5½ drachms, Peru balsam 1¾ ozs., civet tincture 5½ drachms, -musk-root tincture 3½ ozs. Mucilage of gum-tragacanth as much as -required. - -_Fumigating lacquer._--Fumigating lacquer consists chiefly of resins, -to which sufficient liquid storax is added to render the mass plastic, -so that sticks of any desired length and thickness can be formed -therefrom. - -The resins and licorice mentioned in the receipt given below are -gradually and very carefully melted in an iron pan over a gas or -petroleum flame. To prevent the resins from scorching, the bottom of -the pan must constantly be kept free with a small iron spatula. When -the mass is perfectly fluid the Frankfort black is added, and the whole -thoroughly worked until no more lumps of Frankfort black are present. -The pan is then taken from the fire, and, after allowing the mass to -cool somewhat, it is perfumed with the thoroughly mixed perfume. - -A lithographic stone, not too small, is used for giving the fumigating -lacquer a round form. The stone is rubbed with a rag moistened with a -very small quantity of olive oil. A small portion of the still very -warm mass is then poured upon the stone and rolled with the hands, -which should also be moistened with a little olive oil, into sticks of -desired thickness. The sticks are cut into the desired lengths while -the lacquer is still warm, and the operation is thus continued until -the entire mass is worked up. The mass in the pan must, of course, be -constantly kept liquid. - -Siam benzoin, olibanum, and myrrh each 8¾ ozs., storax as free from -water as possible 3½ ozs., licorice 17½ ozs., Peru balsam 3½ ozs., -Frankfort black 5¼ ozs., bergamot oil 14 drachms, African rose-geranium -oil, cassia oil, juniper-berry oil, and eucalyptus oil each 11¼ -drachms. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - -DENTIFRICES, MOUTH-WATERS, ETC. - - -For cleansing and preserving the teeth and gums, _soaps_, _powders_, -and _tinctures_ are used, and for removing foul breath, _mouth-waters_. - -Great care is required in compounding dentifrices and mouth-waters, -and special attention must be paid to the correct selection of the -material. The substances used must be chemically pure, and no caustic -or sharp or grating materials, such as pumice, sand, _ossa sepiæ_, -etc., should be employed, they destroying the enamel of the teeth. - -The coloring substances used to give the dentifrices and mouth-waters -a pleasing appearance should under no condition be injurious or -poisonous, such as, for instance, brilliant rosa, cinnabar, aniline, -chrome yellow, picric acid, etc. The perfumes have also to be carefully -selected, and all repugnant volatile oils and tinctures, such as -bitter-almond oil, sandal-wood oil, musk tincture, etc., should -be avoided. On the other hand, peppermint oil forms the principal -constituent of the perfume for most dentifrices and mouth-waters, this -preference being not only due to its agreeable odor, but chiefly to its -pleasant, refreshing, and stimulating action upon our organs. - -In accordance with recent medical directions and opinions soap is -again employed, and justly so, for the better cleansing of the teeth, -whilst formerly it was generally considered injurious. However, though -soap is innocuous to the teeth, it should be used in very limited -quantities, since its introduction into the mouth is repugnant to many -persons, producing in many cases vomiting. The quality of the soap must -also be taken into consideration, and only the best neutral soap in -the form of a powder, such as is used for fine milled soaps, should be -employed. - -The alcohol used for the tooth and mouth-waters--more correctly -tinctures--should be perfectly free from fusel oil, and of 95 to 96 per -cent. strength. The best qualities of volatile oils should be taken, -and the tinctures prepared with the greatest care. - -The dentifrices for preventing caries, among which the thymol -preparations are the most prominent, deserve special attention. The -most celebrated physicians have long since recognized thymol as -an antiseptic, it being much used in hospitals, and is frequently -preferred to carbolic acid. For this reason thymol preparations should -be used for preserving the teeth. They render good service, especially -in the case of hollow teeth, as they remove the foul odor and protect -the sound teeth from becoming hollow. For cleansing artificial teeth -thymol tooth-water can be especially recommended. Great care should, -therefore, be exercised in the preparation of these thymol dentifrices. -On the other hand, according to medical opinions, dentifrices -containing salicylic acid cannot be recommended, the acid, it is -claimed, being very injurious to the enamel of the teeth. - -Glycerin, which occurs in several receipts for dentifrices and -mouth-waters, fulfills a double object; on the one hand, its action -upon the teeth and mouth is beneficial, and, on the other, it covers -the naturally bitter taste of many substances contained in the -preparations, and thus makes them more agreeable to use. - -The receipts for dentifrices and mouth-waters here given have been -thoroughly tested, and can be highly recommended. - -_Tooth and mouth waters._ _Thymol tooth-water._--Alcohol of best -quality 5 quarts, chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 17½ ozs., -crystallized thymol 1 oz., white thyme oil and best peppermint oil each -1¼ ozs., tinctures of arnica and guaiacum each 1¾ ozs., cochineal -tincture, for coloring, 2¾ to 3½ ozs. - -Bring all the ingredients into a glass balloon, shake thoroughly, and -protect the liquid from sunlight. - -The cochineal tincture is prepared from 14 ozs. of cochineal and 1 -quart of alcohol of best quality, the arnica tincture from 2 lbs. of -arnica root and 2½ quarts of alcohol of best quality, and the guaiacum -tincture from 5¼ ozs. of guaiacum-wood and 1 quart of alcohol of best -quality. - -_Eau dentifrice Botot._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, chemically -pure glycerin of 28° B. 17¾ ozs., peppermint oil 2 ozs., clove oil -11 drachms, anise-seed oil 5 drachms, ratany tincture and vanilla -tincture each 5¼ ozs., Peruvian bark tincture 1¾ ozs., sanders-wood -tincture, as coloring matter, 3½ ozs. Proceed as above. - -The sanders-wood tincture is prepared by macerating 5¼ ozs. of red -sanders wood with 1 quart of alcohol. - -_Eau dentifrice Orientale._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, -peppermint oil and rose-geranium oil each 1¼ ozs., clove oil 11¼ -drachms, _extrait rose_ and ratany tincture each 3½ ozs., vanilla -tincture 1¾ ozs. Proceed as above and color rose color with corallin -tincture. - -The ratany tincture is prepared from 17½ ozs. of ratany root and 1 -quart alcohol, and the corallin tincture from 17½ ozs. of corallin and -1 quart alcohol. - -_Violet mouth-water._--Tincture of benzoin 7 parts, tincture of ratany -30, tincture of myrrh 60, rose water 250, tincture of orris root 500, -alcohol 250. - -_Antiseptic gargle._--The following solution is recommended for -sterilizing the mouth after the teeth have been cleansed with a -tooth-brush and soap: Thymol 3½ grains, benzoic acid 45, tincture of -eucalyptus 180, water 1½ pints. - -_Odontine._--Exhaust 3 ozs. of pulverized myrrh with a mixture of -25 ozs. of alcohol and 8 ozs. of water. Then dissolve 1½ ozs. of -Castile soap shavings in a mixture of 25 ozs. of alcohol and 8 ozs. of -water, and color wine-red with alkannin. Then add lemon oil 30 drops, -peppermint oil 30 drops, wintergreen oil 10 drops, star-anise oil 30 -drops, and finally 4 ozs. of glycerin. After allowing the whole to -stand in a cool place for one or two weeks, filter, mix the filtrate -with 10 drachms of acetic ether, and fill in bottles. - -_Sozodont._--White Castile soap ½ oz., oil of peppermint 5 drops, oil -of wintergreen 12 drops, glycerin ½ oz., water 1 oz., alcohol 2 ozs., -cochineal tincture sufficient to color. - -_Eau de Botot_ (_improved_).--Cloves, star-anise, and soap bark, each -2½ drachms, cochineal 1½ drachms. Pulverize and percolate with the -following mixture: Alcohol 20 ozs., rose water 4 ozs. To the percolate -add: Cream of tartar 45 grains, oil of peppermint 1½ drachms. Filter. - -_Quinine tooth-water._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, peppermint -oil 1 oz., clove oil ½ oz., Ceylon cinnamon oil 2¾ drachms, -Peruvian bark-tincture 8¾ ozs., guaiacum-tincture 3½ ozs., myrrh -tincture 1.75 ozs., glycerine of 28° B. 17½ ozs. Proceed as above. - -The Peruvian bark-tincture is prepared by macerating 8¾ ozs. of -Peruvian bark in 1 quart of alcohol of best quality. - -_Dr. Stahl's tooth-tincture._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, -peppermint oil 1¾ ozs., clove oil 5½ drachms, French rose-geranium -oil 8¼ drachms, vanilla-tincture 5¼ ozs., guaiacum-tincture 3½ ozs., -benzoin tincture 8¾ ozs., henna-tincture, as coloring matter, 8¾ -ozs. - -Bring all the ingredients into a glass bottle, shake thoroughly and -protect the mixture from sunlight. The tincture, when mixed with water, -gives an emulsion. - -The henna-tincture is obtained by macerating 17½ ozs. of henna-root in -4 quarts of alcohol. - -_Esprit de menthe._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, peppermint oil -4¼ ozs. - -_Arnica tooth-tincture._--Alcohol of best quality and arnica-tincture -each 1 quart, Peruvian bark-tincture 1 pint, glycerin of 28° B. 5¼ -ozs., cochineal tincture, as coloring matter, 1¾ ozs. - -_Myrrh tooth-tincture._--Alcohol of best quality 1 quart, myrrh -tincture 2 quarts, guaiacum-tincture 8¾ ozs. - -A few remarks may here be made regarding the use of tooth tinctures. -The tinctures should not be used undiluted, they being apt to make -tender gums sore, cause pain, and may even produce inflammation. It is -best to dilute the tinctures somewhat with water whereby they become -milder and more agreeable to the gums. An excellent article for rinsing -out the mouth is obtained by pouring a teaspoonful of the tincture into -a tumbler of water. - - -TOOTH-PASTES AND TOOTH-POWDERS. _Tooth-paste or odontine, No. -1._--Carbonate of magnesium 6 lbs., sugar of milk 2 lbs., precipitated -carbonate of calcium 4 lbs., alizarin, to color, 1¾ ozs., best -soap-powder 7 ozs., powdered gum-arabic 5¼ ozs., sugar 17½ ozs. -dissolved in distilled water 2½ quarts, chemically pure glycerin of 28° -B. 17½ ozs., peppermint oil 8¾ ozs., clove oil 8¼ drachms. - -Pass the magnesia, sugar of milk, carbonate of calcium, alizarin, -soap-powder and gum-arabic through a fine sieve and mix intimately; -dissolve the sugar in the distilled water and add the glycerin to the -solution. Bring the sifted powders into a mortar or other convenient -vessel, gradually add the fluid and thoroughly mix with the hands. -Then add the perfume, and convert the whole into a solid paste with a -wooden pestle. Instead of mixing and working the mass in a mortar, the -operation is much more rapidly performed by passing the mixture through -the rolls of a soap mill, which must, of course, be thoroughly cleansed -for the purpose by washing with water. - -_Tooth-paste or odontine, No. 2._--Carbonate of magnesium and sugar -of milk each 2 lbs., precipitated carbonate of calcium 4 lbs., -prepared chalk 10 lbs., sugar 4 lbs. dissolved in water 5 quarts, best -soap-powder 2 lbs., alizarin, as coloring matter, 7 ozs., peppermint -oil 10½ ozs., clove oil 8¾ ozs. - -This paste is prepared in the same manner as No. 1, only the -proportion of water has to be taken into consideration. To prevent the -mass from becoming too soft, the water should be very gradually added. - -_Thymol tooth-paste._--Carbonate of magnesium 4 lbs., sugar of milk -2 lbs., pulverized gum-arabic and soap powder each 3½ ozs., carmine -nacarat, as coloring matter, 2¾ drachms, and alizarin, as coloring -matter, 6¾ drachms, sugar 10½ ozs., dissolved in distilled water -1¾ quarts, peppermint oil 1¼ ozs., white thyme oil 2½ ozs., -crystallized thymol 1¼ ozs., arnica tincture 7 ozs. The thyme oil, -peppermint oil and arnica tincture are brought into a bottle and the -thymol is dissolved in the mixture. By previously converting the thymol -to a coarse powder solution takes place quite rapidly. The further -manipulation is the same as given for tooth-paste No. 1. - -_Cherry tooth-paste._--Boil briskly 1 oz. potassium carbonate and 1 oz. -of powdered cochineal in a pint of water until reduced to 12 or 13 ozs. -When cold, add 1 oz. cream of tartar, ½ oz. alum, 2 ozs. glycerin, -and water sufficient to make 16 ozs. of filtered solution. Then add 4 -ozs. of honey and set aside a few days to see if fermentation occurs. -Carefully mix the liquid with 2 lbs. prepared chalk, 1¾ ozs. orris -powder and ¾ ozs. cassia powder. - -_Non-fermenting cherry tooth-paste._--Fine powdered pumice stone 2 -ozs., powdered orris root 2 ozs., powdered myrrh ½ oz., honey 4 ozs., -sufficient liquid cochineal to color, oil of cloves ½ drachm, essence -of lemon 1½ drachms, rose oil 8 drops. Mix well. - -_Odontine paste._--French chalk 30 drachms, soap 15, sugar 15, -gum-arabic 2, peppermint oil 2, glycerin 8, water 8. Work into a paste. - -_Thymol tooth-powder._--Sugar of milk and carbonate of magnesium each 2 -lbs., precipitated carbonate of calcium 1 lb., best soap-powder 7 ozs., -alizarin, as coloring matter, and crystallized thymol, each 1 oz., -glycerin of 28° B. 5¼ ozs., arnica tincture 7 ozs., white thyme oil 1½ -ozs., peppermint oil 11¼ drachms. - -Thoroughly mix--preferably in a capacious enamelled vessel--the -powdered and colored ingredients, add the thymol dissolved in the -mixture of the volatile oils, arnica tincture and glycerin, rub and -uniformly mix the whole with the hands, so that no specks of coloring -matter and perfume are perceptible, and then again pass through a fine -sieve. - -Tooth powder is best kept in well closed tin boxes; boxes of wood or -paste-board are not suitable for the purpose, the powder, when kept in -them, losing in quality. - -The above explanations refer to all the following tooth powders:-- - -_Poudre dentifrice._--Precipitated carbonate of calcium 2 lbs., -carbonate of magnesium 1 lb., sugar of milk 1½ lbs., fine soap-powder -5¼ ozs., alizarin, as coloring matter, 5¼ ozs., peppermint oil 2 ozs., -clove oil 5½ drachms, Ceylon cinnamon oil 2¾ drachms, rose-geranium -oil 5½ drachms, vanilla tincture 1¾ ozs. Proceed as given for thymol -tooth-powder. - -_Violet tooth-powder._--Orris-root powder 3 lbs., carbonate of -magnesium 1 lb., sugar of milk 1½ lbs., best soap-powder 5¼ ozs., -Portugal oil and peppermint oil each 1 oz., ratany tincture 3½ ozs. -Proceed as given for thymol tooth-powder. - -_Dr. Hufeland's tooth-powder._--Pulverized sanders wood, Peruvian bark, -and precipitated carbonate of calcium each 2 lbs., best soap-powder -7 ozs., bergamot oil and Portugal oil each 11 drachms, clove oil and -cassia oil each 14 drachms, myrrh tincture 1¾ ozs. Proceed as given -for thymol tooth-powder. - -_White tooth-powder._--Carbonate of magnesium, precipitated carbonate -of calcium, and prepared chalk each 1 lb., soap-powder 3½ ozs., -peppermint oil 1 oz., clove oil 5½ drachms. Proceed as given for thymol -tooth-powder. - -_Black tooth-powder._--Finely pulverized linden charcoal 2 lbs., -precipitated carbonate of calcium 1 lb., best soap-powder 3½ ozs., -peppermint oil 1¾ ozs., clove oil 8¼ drachms, guaiacum tincture 3½ -ozs. Proceed as given for thymol tooth-powder. - -_Poudre de corail._--Carbonate of magnesium 1 lb., sugar of milk 7 -ozs., prepared chalk 1 lb., best soap-powder 7 ozs., alizarin 3½ ozs., -peppermint oil 1¾ ozs., clove oil 5½ drachms, cassia oil 2¾ -drachms. Proceed as given for thymol tooth-powder. - -_Camphor tooth-powder._--Prepared chalk and precipitated carbonate -of calcium each 1 lb., best soap-powder 2½ ozs., peppermint oil 5½ -drachms, camphor 1 oz. dissolved in the necessary quantity of alcohol -of best quality. - -Thoroughly mix all the ingredients and pass the mixture through a fine -sieve. This tooth-powder should be used only every 5 or 6 days; when -too frequently used it affects the nerves. - -_Opiat liquide pour les dents._--Genuine honey 1½ lbs., sugar syrup 2½ -ozs., best wheat flour 7 ozs., round-lake 2 ozs., peppermint oil and -clove oil each 11¼ drachms. - -Convert the round-lake into a fine powder and pass it through a fine -sieve into a capacious porcelain dish. Then intimately mix it with the -wheat flour, gradually add the honey and syrup, and after thoroughly -working the mass for about ¼ hour, add the volatile oil. Now work -the whole thoroughly with the pestle, then cover the dish, and after -allowing it to stand quietly for about 36 hours, bring the mass into -boxes of glass or tin provided with screw-tops. - -_Poudre d' Algérine._--Cream of tartar and pulverized red coral each -2 lbs., pulverized burnt alum 1 lb., pulverized sugar of milk 2 lbs., -cochineal as coloring matter 3½ ozs. - -The pulverized ingredients are brought into an enamelled vessel having -a capacity of 12 quarts and thoroughly mixed, so that the cochineal is -uniformly distributed in the mass. Now have ready about 3 quarts of -nearly boiling water and a thoroughly cleansed soap-stirrer or similar -instrument. - -When everything is prepared, quickly pour the hot water upon the -powder in the enamelled vessel and stir rapidly and thoroughly during -the effervescence which immediately takes place. The effervescence -gradually ceases and the result will be a beautiful crimson colored -mass, the hot water having immediately and completely dissolved the -coloring matter of the cochineal. Now, bring the mass into a shallow -box lined with clean white paper and place it to dry in an airy room, -but do not expose it to the air or sunlight. The next day the mass in -the box is thoroughly worked through, this operation being repeated -every day until the mass is dry. It is then again powdered, whereby -it acquires a rose color, and is then sifted. The powder is perfumed -with peppermint oil 1 oz. and clove oil and cassia oil each 5½ ozs., -sufficient glycerin to prevent dust, being at the same time rubbed -in. With the addition of the glycerin the beautiful crimson color of -the powder reappears. This tooth-powder possesses excellent cleansing -qualities and can be recommended chiefly to persons having yellow -teeth, as well as to smokers whose teeth commence to get black. - -_Dr. Hufeland's tooth soap._--Best quality of tallow melted without -acid 14 lbs., soda lye of 38° B. 6½ lbs., potash lye of 20° B. 1 lb. -Further, yellow ochre 1 lb., umber 4½ ozs., and precipitated carbonate -of calcium 3 lbs., stirred together with hot water 2 quarts. Peppermint -oil 5¼ ozs., clove oil 14 drachms. - -The kettle with the tallow strained through a cloth is brought upon the -water-bath and the tallow heated to 167° F. The lye heated to about -100° F. is then slowly added to the tallow in the kettle, and, after -stirring for about ¼ hour, the mass is allowed to rest quietly, the -kettle being lightly covered and only a little steam admitted or fire -kept under the kettle, so that saponification does not take place too -rapidly. - -Saponification will be slowly effected from the sides of the kettle in -about one hour, the mass in the kettle rising somewhat. This rising -indicates that the process of saponification is going on. The mass -is now again stirred, which must be done carefully and not hastily, -as otherwise the soap readily becomes spumous. When the soap again -lies quietly in the kettle, it will have the appearance of a white -prime grain-soap. Now add the coloring substances and the precipitated -carbonate of calcium and thoroughly stir, so that the mass acquires a -uniform brown color. Then remove the kettle from the water-bath, add -the perfumes with constant stirring, bring the finished tooth soap into -the frame, lightly cover the latter with the wooden lid and let stand -over night. The next day the tooth soap may be cut up into suitable -pieces, which are allowed to dry for about 12 hours and then packed in -tinfoil, etc. - -_Tooth-soap._--Castile soap 1 lb., prepared chalk 1 oz., thymol 20 -grains, oil of wintergreen 30 drops. - -Shave the soap into ribbons, beat it into a paste with a little water, -and add first the prepared chalk and lastly the thymol and wintergreen -oil dissolved in a little water. - -_Saponaceous tooth-wash._--White Castile soap 3 ozs., oil of orange -peel 10 drops, oil of cinnamon 5 drops, water 4 ozs., alcohol 12 ozs. - -Shave the soap into ribbons; melt with the water in a water-bath, -adding the alcohol while still warm. Continue the heat if necessary, -until solution is effected. When cold, dissolve the oils in the liquid. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS, AND HAIR TONICS; HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORIES. - - -To properly preserve the hair it requires to be occasionally oiled, and -the scalp to be frequently cleansed. Pomades and oils serve for the -former purpose, and hair tonics for the latter. For the preparation -of pomades, fats, such as lard, beef-tallow, and beef-marrow, are -principally used, though cocoa butter, cocoanut oil, castor oil, -almond oil, spermaceti, and wax, and, more recently, vaseline are also -employed. For the preparation of hair oils, fat oils, especially olive -oil and almond oil are used, but also poppy oil, peanut oil, sesame -oil, etc. The fats and oils used should not be rancid, for, on the one -hand, the bad odor arising from rancidity is troublesome in perfuming, -and, on the other, what is of still greater importance, rancid fat -injuriously affects the scalp and the growth of the hair. Of the oils -above mentioned, which are sometimes used, poppy oil is a drying oil, -and, therefore, not suitable for the purpose. - -Some fats enjoy a special reputation as hair pomades, the property of -strengthening the scalp and promoting the growth of the hair being -ascribed to them. This is especially the case as regards beef marrow -and horse fat,[22] whilst in olden times the bone marrow of the deer -(_cerval medullæ_) and bear's grease were believed to possess this -property. Cleopatra is said to have used the latter, and many ladies -are at the present time under the impression that they apply it to -their hair when they use _Pommade à la graisse d'ours_. Thoroughly -purified lard renders no doubt the same service as the above-mentioned -fats. - - [22] Genuine horse fat is obtained from the upper portion of the neck - of the horse. - -POMADES. Pomades are prepared by two different methods; the desired -odor is imparted to the fat by the extraction of the flowers of various -plants, or the fat in a semi-congealed state is perfumed with different -volatile oils. - -The fats used for pomades should, as above indicated, be as fresh and -pure as possible, so that they will keep for a long time. Fats intended -for fine pomades, for which lard and beef-tallow are chiefly used, are -generally first subjected to purification by, for some time, treating -them with cold water, constantly renewed, and thoroughly washing, so -that all adhering particles of dirt and mucus are removed, and the -pomades prepared from them are better protected against rancidity. For -the removal of the water adhering from washing, the fats are remelted. -Still greater durability is imparted to the fat by adding in remelting -a small quantity of salicylic acid (2¾ drachms of the acid to 2 lbs. -of fat), or of gum benzoin. A small addition of ethyl nitrite also -renders the fats more durable. - -The purification of the fat, which generally consists of 2 to 3 parts -lard and 1 part beef-tallow, is frequently effected as follows: Boil -for about one hour 125 lbs. of fat with about 30 gallons of water -containing 1 lb. each of common salt and alum in solution, constantly -removing the scum formed. After standing for several hours, the fat -thus purified is carefully taken off from the sediment and water; it is -then, together with 4 to 6 lbs. of pulverized benzoin, for some time -heated at 167° F., and finally strained into stone jars, which, after -the fat is cold, are closed with a piece of bladder or waxed paper and -kept for use. Fat thus prepared keeps for years. - -For _coloring the pomades_ are used: 1. _For red_: Alkannin, cinnabar, -carmine (triturated with a small quantity of sal ammoniac and added -to the fat) and safranin (1 part of it dissolved in 20 parts alcohol -and 80 parts water and added to the melted fat). 2. _For yellow_: -Annotto, turmeric, cadmium sulphide. 3. _For brown_: Cocoa powder and -ochre. 4. _For green_: Chlorophyl. Besides the above-mentioned coloring -substances, a very intense coloring matter for pomades is brought into -commerce under the name "Lederin" by Saltzer & Voigt, of Oker, Germany. -It is manufactured in lemon color, orange, cinnabar, violet, and brown -shades, and 10 to 12 drachms of it, triturated in a porcelain dish with -about 1 lb. of the warm fat, will impart a truly beautiful color to 100 -lbs. of fat or oil. - -_Fine French Pomades_ (_Flower Pomades_).--In France, especially in -the southern part, where the cultivation of the various flowers, such -as roses, violets, mignonette, héliotrope, etc., is carried on on an -extensive scale, the fine pomades are prepared by the method previously -mentioned (see p. 58 _et seq._). - -The maceration or extraction of the flowers is effected as follows: The -fat, generally consisting of 3 parts lard and 1 part beef-tallow, is -melted in an enamelled vessel over the steam or water-bath. The flowers -in a clean linen bag are suspended in the fat, and after covering the -vessel the fat is kept, according to the strength of the perfume of the -respective variety of flower, for a day or two more at a temperature of -from 133° to 145° F. The extracted and exhausted flowers are then taken -out, slightly pressed out, and thrown away. The same operation with -always the same quantities of fresh flowers is then repeated ten to -twelve times with the same fat, until it is sufficiently perfumed. The -pomade thus obtained, to which some white vaseline is frequently added, -is then stirred until cold. - -Receipts for some flower pomades are here given:-- - -_Pommade à la rose._--Extract, in the manner above given, with 6 lbs. -of lard and 2 lbs. of beef-tallow, both thoroughly purified, 8 lbs. of -fresh rose leaves. Treat the fat ten to twelve times in the same manner -with an equal quantity of fresh rose leaves. - -_Pommade à l'acacia._--Extract 6 lbs. of fresh acacia flowers with 20 -lbs. of fat, and repeat the operation ten times with a like quantity of -fresh flowers. - -_Pommade à la fleur d'orange._--Extract 8 lbs. of fresh orange flowers -with 8 lbs. of fat, and repeat the operation eight times with a like -quantity of fresh flowers. - -_Pommade à l'héliotrope._--Extract 8 lbs. of fresh héliotrope flowers -with 8 lbs. of fat, and repeat the operation eight to ten times with an -equal quantity of fresh flowers. - -All simple French pomades, for which flowers furnish the perfume, are -prepared in a similar manner. For pomades are chiefly used the flowers -of the geranium, jasmine, mignonette, hyacinth, tuberose, narcissus, -lily, etc., the pomades as a rule receiving the name of the perfume -imparted to them. - -POMADES ACCORDING TO THE GERMAN METHOD. Most of the pomades consumed in -Germany are prepared from fresh, purified lard and beef-tallow, though -sometimes additions of wax, spermaceti, stearin, castor-oil, cocoanut -oil, etc., are made, or the pomade is entirely composed of the latter -fats. For inferior qualities of pomades, borax is much used, since it -not only possesses the property of combining a quantity of water with -the fat, but also makes the pomade more durable. Soap dissolved in hot -water is also often added to the fat, whereby not only considerable -water is fixed in the pomade, but the latter also becomes very white -and pliant. In regard to pomades containing borax, it may be mentioned -that safranin has proved a durable substance for coloring the pomades -red, while alkannin suffers alterations. - -The fabrication of pomades is very simple. The fat, after being melted, -and somewhat cooled off, is generally vigorously worked or beaten with -a wooden pestle or spatula, until it acquires a frothy, cream-like -appearance. By this treatment the fat also gains in volume, small air -bubbles being inclosed in it. On the other hand, the fat is stirred -until cold, then perfumed and poured into pots. - -The following mixtures of fat may serve as suitable foundations for -white pomades:-- - -I. Lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 2 lbs. - -II. Lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 3 lbs. - -III. Lard 7½ lbs., spermaceti 1½ lbs. - -IV. Castor oil 6 lbs., vaseline 1½ lbs., wax 1 lb. - -V. Lard 8 lbs., cocoanut oil 2 lbs. - -VI. Castor oil 6 lbs., spermaceti 1 lb. - -VII. Lard 6 lbs., cocoanut oil 3 lbs. - -VIII. Lard 8 lbs., wax 1 lb., cocoa butter 1 lb. - -IX. Pomade fat 12 lbs., soap 4 ozs., dissolved in hot water, borax ½ -drachm. This mass will stand about ¼ water. - -X. _In summer_: Fat 6 lbs., stearin 7 ozs. - -_In winter_: Fat 6 lbs., stearin 4½ ozs. - -To either mass given under X, add and combine thoroughly with it 14 -drachms of borax dissolved in 1 quart of water. - -The pomades, while still warm, are colored and finally perfumed. -For _perfuming_, different volatile oils and perfume substances of -suitable composition are used, 1 to 1½ ozs. of perfume being generally -sufficient for 2 lbs. of fat. - -Receipts for the best known and most popular pomades are as follows:-- - -_Apple pomade._--Digest for some time in the water bath 2 lbs. of fresh -apple parings with 6 lbs. of lard and 2 lbs. of beef-tallow, press, -color yellow, stir until cold, and perfume with 1 oz. amyl valerate, -commonly called "apple oil." - -_Bear's grease pomade._--Perfume purified bear's grease 8 lbs., or -benzoated lard 6 lbs. and beef-tallow 2 lbs., with rose-geranium oil -2¾ ozs. and vanilla tincture 2 ozs. - -_Quinine pomade No. 1._--Fresh lard 6 lbs., fresh beef-tallow 2½ lbs., -quinotannic acid 13 ozs., tincture of cantharides and distilled water -each 8 ozs., Peru balsam 4 ozs., rose-geranium oil 8 drachms. - -_Quinine pomade No. 2._--Vaseline 4 lbs., paraffin 2 lbs., fat jasmine -oil 1 lb., Peruvian bark extract ½ lb., tannin 5¼ ozs., Peru balsam -3½ ozs., rose-geranium oil 11 drachms. - -Melt together the vaseline and paraffin, add the Peruvian bark extract -previously rubbed up with as little water as possible, and stir in the -tannin dissolved in the volatile oils. - -_Quinine pomade (imitation) No. 1._--Benzoated lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow -2 lbs., colored with prepared cocoa powder about 14 ozs., and perfumed -with Peruvian balsam 2¼ ozs., bergamot oil, citronella oil, and eau de -Cologne each 5½ drachms, and oils of cloves, lavender, and cinnamon -each 40 drops. - -_Quinine pomade (imitation) No. 2._--Lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 2½ lbs., -cocoa powder 15¾ ozs., Peru balsam 2¼ ozs., cassia oil 1¾ ozs., -clove oil 2¾ drachms, oil of bitter almonds 10 drops. - -_Benzoin pomade._--Digest for several hours in a water bath at 167° -F. 6 lbs. of lard, 2 lbs. of beef-tallow, and 1½ lbs. of pulverized -benzoin, and strain off the fat. - -_Densdorf pomade._--Castor oil 6 lbs., vaseline 1½ lbs., yellow wax 1 -lb., bergamot oil 2¼ ozs., lemon oil 1¼ ozs., geranium oil 4½ drachms. - -_Ice pomade No. 1._--Best olive oil 6 lbs., white vaseline and -spermaceti each 1½ lbs., bergamot oil 3 ozs., bitter almond oil 11 -drachms, rose-geranium oil 8¼ drachms, cinnamon oil 5½ drachms. - -_Ice pomade No. 2._--Fat almond oil 6 lbs., spermaceti 1½ lbs., -bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., citronella oil 14 drachms, palma rose oil -2¾ drachms. - -_Family pomade (red)._--Fresh lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 3 lbs., bergamot -oil 1¾ ozs., oils of lemon, lavender, and cinnamon each 14 drachms. -Color with alkannin. - -_Family pomade (white)._--Fresh lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 3 lbs., lemon -oil 2 ozs., sweet orange oil 1¼ ozs., bergamot oil 1 oz. - -_Family pomade (rose color)._--Fresh lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 3 lbs., -palma-rose oil, citronella oil, and lavender oil each 1¼ ozs. Color -with alkannin. - -_Family pomade (yellow)._--Fresh lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 3 lbs., -bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., cassia oil 14 drachms, clove oil 8¼ drachms, -thyme oil 5½ drachms. Color with lederin or annotto. - -_Family pomade (brown)._--Fresh lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 3 lbs., cassia -oil 1¾ ozs., caraway oil 1 oz., sweet orange oil and clove oil each -11¼ drachms. Color brown with cocoa powder, lederin, or umber. - -_Strawberry pomade._--Fresh ripe strawberries 1½ lbs., fresh lard, 6 -lbs., fresh beef-tallow 2 lbs., rose oil 5 drops. - -Put the strawberries in a clean linen bag, and digest them for some -time with the fat in the water-bath. Then moderately press the -strawberries, color with alkannin, and finally perfume. - -_Fine hair pomade._--Fresh lard 8 lbs., cocoanut oil and wax each 1 -lb., bergamot oil 3 ozs., lemon oil 1¼ ozs., geranium oil 5½ drachms, -musk tincture 1 drachm.[23] - - [23] A pomade containing musk cannot be used by everyone, since in - nervous persons it may readily cause headache. - -_Pomade for promoting the growth of the hair._--Lard 6 lbs., -beef-tallow 2 lbs., tincture of cantharides 10½ ozs., lemon oil 2½ -ozs., bergamot oil 2 ozs., cinnamon oil 1½ drachms. - -_Heliotrope pomade, finest quality._--Lard treated with benzoin 6 lbs., -beef tallow treated with benzoin 2 lbs., heliotropin 3¾ drachms, -dissolved in a small quantity of the fat heated to about 111° F.; -neroli oil 35 drops. - -_Heliotrope pomade._--Fresh lard 6 lbs., fresh beef tallow 2 lbs., Peru -balsam 2½ ozs., cassia oil 1½ ozs., clove oil 8¼ drachms, artificial -bitter-almond oil 1½ drachms. - -_Jasmine pomade._--Benzoated lard 6 lbs., benzoated beef tallow 2 lbs., -fat jasmine oil 2⅖ lbs., rose oil 25 drops. - -_Emperor pomade._--Melt together 7⅗ lbs. of fresh olive oil, 2 lbs. -of castor oil, and 2⅖ lbs. of spermaceti. Perfume with fat jasmine -oil 7 ozs., Turkish rose oil and bergamot oil each 2¾ drachms, -neroli oil 50 drops, geranium oil 20 drops, orris-root oil 10 drops, -heliotropin ½ drachm, and cumarin 1/10 drachm. - -Dissolve the heliotropin and cumarin in a portion of the fat heated to -111° F., add the solution, together with the other perfume-materials, -to the fat before it congeals, then pour the pomade into jars and allow -it to cool slowly. - -_Macassar pomade._--Castor oil 6 lbs., vaseline 1½ lbs., wax 1 -lb., bergamot oil 2 ozs., cassia oil and cinnamon oil each 1 oz., -rose-geranium oil 2¾ drachms. - -_Portugal pomade._--Fresh lard 4 lbs., white vaseline 1 lb., wax 3½ -ozs., Portugal oil 2 ozs., bergamot oil 1¼ ozs., caraway oil 2¾ -drachms. - -_Herb pomade._--Melt together fresh lard 8 lbs., Japanese wax and -bayberry oil each 3½ ozs., improve the color with chlorophyl, and -perfume with lemon oil 14 drachms, bergamot oil 11 drachms, clove oil -5½ drachms, geranium oil 3¼ drachms, and a few drops of curly mint oil. - -_Lanolin pomade._--Benzoated fat 4 lbs., benzoinized olive oil and -lanolin each 2 lbs., bergamot oil 3½ ozs., cinnamon oil 7¼ drachms, -clove oil 5½ drachms, lavender oil 3¾ drachms, nerolin 1 drachm -dissolved in a portion of the fat heated to 111° F. Color red with -alkannin. - -_Oriental pomade._--Benzoated lard 6 lbs., benzoated beef-tallow 2 -lbs., bergamot oil 2 ozs., clove oil 1¼ ozs., neroli oil 5½ drachms, -musk tincture ½ drachm. Color red with lederin. - -_Paraffin ice pomade._--Castor oil or olive oil 6 lbs., paraffin 1 lb., -bergamot oil 3½ ozs., palma rose oil 11¼ drachms. - -_Neroli pomade._--Benzoated lard 6 lbs., benzoated beef-tallow 2 lbs., -fat jasmine oil and fat rose oil each 1¾ ozs., oil of bitter almonds -2 drops, nerolin 1½ drachms dissolved in a small portion of the fat -heated to 111° F. Color pale yellow. - -_Cheap pomade (red, yellow, white)._--Lard 5 lbs., beef-tallow or -cocoanut oil 2 lbs., perfumed with about 3½ ozs. of fruit ether. - -_Mignonette pomade._--Benzoated lard 4 lbs., benzoated beef-tallow and -fat mignonette oil each 2 lbs., tolu-balsam tincture 4¾ ozs. Color -pale green with chlorophyl. - -_Castor oil pomade No. 1._--Melt together 4 lbs. of castor oil and 11¼ -ozs. of spermaceti and perfume with bergamot oil 2 ozs., and geranium -oil 6½ drachms. - -_Castor oil pomade No. 2._--Castor oil and fine olive oil each 2 lbs., -yellow wax 7 ozs., bergamot oil and sweet orange oil each 14 drachms, -clove oil 8¼ drachms, neroli oil 2¼ drachms. - -_Princess pomade._--Fresh lard 8 lbs., cocoa butter and wax each 1 lb., -bergamot oil 3½ ozs., lemon oil and lavender oil each 14 drachms, -neroli oil 6¾ drachms. Color rose color with alkannin. - -_Fine pomade._--Benzoated lard 6 lbs., benzoated beef-tallow 2 lbs., -lemon oil 2 ozs., sweet orange oil 1¼ ozs., bergamot oil 1 oz. Color -yellow with annotto. - -_Beef-marrow pomade._--Melt together 4 lbs. of lard and 1 lb. of -beef-marrow, or, 4 lbs of lard, 14 ozs. of spermaceti, and 1¾ ozs. -of yellow wax, color yellow and perfume with lemon oil 14 drachms, -bergamot oil 6¾ drachms, and a few drops of clove oil. - -_Rogers's pomade for producing a beard._--Lard 7½ lbs., yellow wax ½ -lb., fine cantharides powder 10½ ozs., bergamot oil 1¼ ozs., oils of -lemon, cinnamon and lavender each 11 drachms. - -_Rose pomade._--Fresh lard 6 lbs., fresh beef-tallow 2 lbs., palma rosa -oil 2¾ ozs., citronella oil 11 drachms, alkannin for coloring 1 to -1½ ozs. - -_Fine rose pomade._--Fresh lard 2½ lbs., spermaceti and fat almond oil, -each 3½ ozs., rose geranium oil 1¼ ozs., bitter almond oil 1½ ozs. - -_Finest rose pomade._--Fat rose oil 2⅖ lbs., spermaceti 7 ozs., -white wax 3½ ozs., rose-geranium oil 1½ ozs., rose oil and bergamot -oil, each ½ drachm. Color red with alkannin. - -_Salicylic pomade._--Fresh lard 7 lbs., white wax 1 lb., fat jasmine -oil 1⅖ lbs. Peru balsam 5¼ ozs., salicylic acid 2 ozs., dissolved in -alcohol 4 ozs. - -_Victoria pomade._--Melt together 3⅕ lbs. of fat almond oil and 10½ -ozs. of white wax, and perfume the mixture, when quite cooled off, with -fat jasmine oil ½ lb., rose oil and geranium oil each 1 drachm. Color -rose color with alkannin. - -_Tonka pomade._--Lard 7½ lbs., spermaceti ½ lb., cumarin 4½ drachms, -dissolved in a small portion of the warm fat. - -_Fine vanilla pomade._--Benzoated lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 2 lbs., -vanilla 2¾ drachms, dissolved in a small portion of the warm fat. - -_Vanilla pomade._--Lard and vaseline each 2 lbs., wax 3½ ozs., Peruvian -balsam 1⅛ ozs., bitter-almond oil ½ drachm, cinnamon oil 20 drops. - -_Violet pomade._--Lard 4 lbs., vaseline 2 lbs., wax 5½ ozs., spermaceti -1¾ ozs., fat orris-root oil 2 lbs., bergamot oil 3¾ drachms, -clove oil 2¼ drachms, cinnamon oil ¾ drachm, rose oil ½ drachm. - -_Walnut pomade._--Work in a mortar to a uniform paste ½ lb. of fresh -green walnut-shells and 2 ozs. of alum. Digest the paste with 2⅖ -lbs. of benzoinized lard and tallow in the water-bath until the fat -appears clear. Then strain off the fat, stir until cold, and perfume -with 1½ drachms of neroli oil and ½ drachm of rose oil. - - -VASELINE POMADES.--Vaseline pomades consisting neither of an animal -nor of a vegetable fat, but almost entirely of a mineral fat, form -a special division of pomades. On account of its good properties -and cheapness, vaseline, which is obtained from petroleum residues, -etc., has for several years past been much used in the preparation -of pomades. The pomades prepared from vaseline are not only very -suitable for oiling the hair, as they never become rancid, but may also -advantageously be used as a remedy for chapped skin, inflammation, -cuts, burns, etc. For pomades odorless vaseline has to be used, 1 lb. -of it requiring about 5½ to 8½ drachms of perfume. Lederin, which has -been previously mentioned, is best suited for coloring the pomades. -When used for pomades vaseline, though by itself sufficient for the -purpose, frequently receives an addition of paraffin, wax (mostly -ceresin), and lard. To vaseline pomades intended for export to warm -climates, an addition of ¼ to ⅛ ceresin is required. - -The following mixtures give good foundations for vaseline pomade:-- - - I. Yellow or white vaseline 2 parts, paraffin 1. - II. Vaseline 5 parts, paraffin or ceresin 1. - III. Vaseline 3 parts, ceresin 1. - IV. Vaseline and lard each 10 parts, ceresin 1. - -The pomades are prepared by first melting the paraffin or ceresin -and then slowly stirring in the vaseline. When the fat commences to -thicken, the perfume is added and the pomade poured into jars or tin -boxes. - -A few good receipts for vaseline pomades are here given. - -_Bouquet vaseline pomade._--White vaseline and fresh lard each 2 lbs., -ceresin 3½ ozs., bergamot oil 1¼ ozs., lavender oil 6¾ drachms, -cinnamon oil 5½ drachms, neroli oil 3¾ drachms, geranium oil 2¾ -drachms. - -_Family vaseline pomade._--Pale yellow vaseline 10 lbs., oils of -bergamot and lemons each 1 oz., citronella oil 12¾ drachms, cassia -oil 8¼ drachms, lavender oil 4½ drachms, clove oil 3¾ drachms; _or_, -bergamot oil 2 ozs., palma-rose oil 1¾ ozs., lavender oil 5½ drachms. - -_Lily of the valley vaseline pomade._--White vaseline and fresh lard -each 2 lbs., ceresin 3½ ozs., bergamot oil 1 oz., ylang-ylang oil 2¾ -drachms, licari oil ½ drachm. - -_Neroli vaseline pomade._--Vaseline 10 lbs., ceresin 2 lbs., geranium -oil 1 oz., nerolin 3¾ drachms, dissolved in a small portion of the -warm fat. - -_Mignonette vaseline pomade._--White vaseline 2 lbs., paraffin 1 lb., -bergamot oil 9 drachms, neroli oil 5½ drachms, artificial bitter almond -oil 15 drops. - -_Portugal vaseline pomade._--Pale yellow vaseline 10 lbs., ceresin -3½ ozs., Portugal oil 2¾ ozs., cassia oil 1 oz., lavender oil 5½ -drachms. - -_Rose vaseline pomade_, No. 1.--Vaseline 6 lbs., ceresin 3½ ozs., -rose-geranium oil 1¼ ozs., nerolin ¾ drachm. Colored with lederin. - -_Rose vaseline pomade_, No. 2.--Vaseline and lard each 2 lbs., ceresin -7 ozs., geranium oil 1½ ozs., bergamot oil 5½ drachms, musk tincture -½ drachm. Color red with alkannin. - -_Fine vaseline pomade_ (_yellow_).--Yellow vaseline and castor oil each -2 lbs., yellow wax 7 ozs., lemon oil 1 oz., bergamot oil 6¾ drachms, -nerolin ½ drachm. - -_Vaseline pomade_ (_red_).--White vaseline 4 lbs., paraffin or ceresin -14 ozs., palma-rose oil, citronella oil and lavender oil each 11¼ -drachms. Color red with lederin or alkannin. - -_Vaseline pomade_ (_white_).--White vaseline 4 lbs., paraffin 14 ozs., -bergamot oil 1¼ ozs., cassia oil 2¾ drachms, thyme oil 1½ drachms. - -_Virginia vaseline pomade._--Digest for some time in the water-bath -2 lbs. of white vaseline, 2½ ozs. each of yellow wax and pulverized -benzoin, and 11 drachms of Peru balsam. Then filter and perfume with -bergamot oil 14 drachms, citronella oil 1½ drachms. - -This pomade serves not only for preserving the scalp, but is also a -good remedy for tetter, cutaneous eruptions, etc. - -_Victoria vaseline pomade._--White vaseline 5 lbs., paraffin 1 lb., -bergamot oil 1½ ozs., rose-geranium oil 1 oz., lavender 8¼ drachms. -Color red with alkannin or lederin. - -_Extra fine vaseline pomade._--White vaseline 4 lbs., ceresin 10½ ozs., -bergamot oil 1⅛ ozs., lemon oil 9 drachms, palmarosa oil 2¼ drachms. - -_Stick pomades._--Besides the soft, unctuous pomades thus far treated -of, we have a solid product--the so-called stick-pomades. These -pomades, which serve for the better fastening of the hair, are brought -into commerce either as _wax pomades_ or _resin pomades_, the former -being prepared from a mixture of lard, tallow, and wax, and the latter -from tallow, wax, and resin, to which some Venetian turpentine may be -added. - -The following mixtures give good foundations for stick pomades:-- - - I. French flower pomade 4 parts, white wax 1½. - II. Fresh beef tallow 3 parts, fresh lard 1, wax 1½. - III. Best beef tallow 5 parts, yellow wax 1. - IV. Tallow 10 parts, wax 2½, resin 1, Venetian turpentine ¼. - V. Tallow 8½ parts, resin ¾, ceresin ¾. - VI. Tallow 4 parts, pale resin 1, yellow wax ¼. - VII. Tallow 10 parts, wax 2, pale resin 1. - VIII. Olive oil 2 parts, pure stearin 1, yellow wax 1. - IX. Tallow 9½ parts, ceresin ½. - X. Best beef-tallow 10 parts, yellow wax 1½. - -The usual process of manufacturing stick-pomade is as follows: Melt -the fat, wax and resin in the water-bath, then strain the mixture and -cool it off by constant stirring until a thin film is formed upon -the surface. Then perfume and pour into tin moulds of oval, round -or square form and of various sizes. A dozen of such tin moulds of -the same size are generally soldered together and are provided below -either with a hinged piece, or they are open. In the latter case they -are placed upon a tin support with a high edge which serves for the -reception for the fat escaping from any of the moulds. The cold pomades -are pushed out by means of sticks of wood fitting exactly into the -moulds. They are then wrapped in tinfoil, labelled and brought into -commerce. - -Stick-pomades are either white, rose color, yellow, brown or black; -alkannin, lederin, umber, Frankfort black, etc., being used as coloring -substances. - -In the following some receipts for wax and resin pomades are given:-- - -_Rose-wax pomade._--Best tallow 6 lbs., best lard 2 lbs., white-wax 3 -lbs., colored with alkannin. _Perfume_: Lemon oil 1 oz., lavender oil -14 drachms, geranium oil 11 drachms, clove oil 6¾ drachms; _or_, -bergamot oil 1 oz., oils of geranium, cassia and Portugal, each 10 -drachms, clove oil 3¼ drachms. - -_Black-wax pomade._--Best tallow 10 lbs., yellow wax 1½ lbs., colored -with Frankfort black. _Perfume_: Bergamot oil 3½ ozs., cassia oil 13½ -drachms; _or_, bergamot oil 3½ ozs., citronella oil 6¾ drachms. - -_Blonde wax pomade._--Best tallow 6 lbs., best lard 2 lbs., white or -yellow wax 3 lbs. _Perfume_: Clove oil 1¼ ozs., lemon oil, bergamot oil -and Peru balsam each 14 drachms; _or_, bergamot oil 2¾ ozs., cassia -oil 5½ drachms, thyme oil 2¾ drachms. - -_Brown wax pomade._--Best tallow 10 lbs., yellow wax 2 lbs., colored -with umber. _Perfume_: Citronella oil 2 ozs., clove oil 12¼ drachms, -bergamot oil 8¼ drachms, anise-seed oil 6¾ drachms; _or_, bergamot -oil 2½ ozs., cassia oil 1¼ ozs., clove oil 5½ drachms. - -_Cheap-wax pomade_ (_color as desired_).--Best tallow 9½ lbs., ceresin -½ lb. Perfume: Lavender oil 1¾ ozs., cassia oil 1 oz., palma-rose -oil 11 drachms; _or_, bergamot oil 1½ ozs., palmarosa oil 1 oz., -lavender oil ½ oz. - -_Resin pomade No. 1._--Best tallow 10 lbs., yellow wax 2 lbs., pale -resin 1 lb. _Perfume_: Bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., cassia oil 14 drachms, -lavender oil 11 drachms, clove oil 8¼ drachms, thyme oil 5½ drachms. - -_Resin pomade No. 2._--Best tallow 10 lbs., yellow wax 2½ lbs., pale -resin 1 lb., Venetian turpentine 4 ozs. _Perfume_: Cassia oil 2¾ -ozs., lavender oil 1 oz., lemon-grass oil 11 drachms, clove oil and -thyme oil each 5½ drachms. - -_Cheap resin pomade._--Best tallow 8½ lbs., pale resin and pale ceresin -each 13 ozs. _Perfume_: Bergamot oil 3½ ozs., cassia oil 9½ drachms, -thyme oil 5 drachms; _or_, Portugal oil 2¾ ozs., cassia oil 1 oz., -lavender oil 5½ drachms. - - -HAIR OILS.--Like pomades, hair oils are perfumed either with volatile -oils or by treatment with larger quantities of fresh flowers. The oils -obtained in the latter manner are known as _Huiles antiques_, and are -the finest and most expensive. Vaseline oil, which is cheap and does -not become rancid, is also at present much used as hair oil. To make -the fat oils used as hair oils more durable and to protect them from -becoming rancid, they are also treated with benzoin. For this purpose -digest for three hours, with frequent stirring, in the water-bath 100 -lbs. of the oil with 1 lb. of pulverized benzoin. With the exception -of alkannin for red-colored oil and chlorophyl for herb oils, no -coloring substances are used for hair oils. About 5½ to 8¼ drachms of -perfume are required for 1 lb. of oil. - -The _Huiles antiques_ are obtained as follows:-- - -_Huile antique à la rose._--Extract in the cold 1 lb. of fresh rose -leaves with 1 lb. of best olive oil, and with the oil pressed off, -extract, six times in succession, equal quantities of fresh leaves, -leaving the rose-leaves each time in contact with the oil for 10 to 12 -hours. The oil, when sufficiently perfumed, is filtered. - -_Huile antique au jasmin._--Extract in the manner above given 1 lb. of -fresh jasmin flowers with 1 lb. of olive oil. - -In the same manner the perfume of the different flowers can be -withdrawn and utilized. - -A number of receipts for the most popular hair oils are here given. - -_Alpine herb oil._--Color slightly with chlorophyl 10 lbs. of best -quality of olive oil and perfume with peppermint oil 2 ozs., lavender -oil 1 oz., caraway oil 6½ drachms. - -_Flower hair oil._--Color slightly with alkannin 10 lbs. of benzoated -olive oil of best quality, and perfume with geranium oil 2¼ ozs., -bergamot oil and lavender oil each 9 drachms, petit-grain oil 4½ -drachms, and angelica oil 5 drops. - -_Peruvian bark hair oil._--Extract for some time 1 lb. of pulverized -Peruvian bark with 10 lbs. of strongly heated benzoinized olive oil. -Then color the oil red with alkannin, and when cold, perfume with -bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., lemon oil 14 drachms, rose-geranium oil 2¼ -drachms, neroli oil ½ drachm, and cinnamon oil 5 drops; _or_, with -bergamot oil 2¼ ozs., lemon oil 1⅛ oz., geranium oil 3¼ drachms. - -_Peru hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., Peru balsam 3½ ozs., -cassia oil 11 drachms. - -_Burdock root hair oil No. 1._--Digest at a moderate heat 8 lbs. of -olive oil or sesame oil with 2 lbs. of fresh burdock roots; then pour -off the oil from the roots, add 7 ozs. of castor oil, color with -alkannin, and perfume with bergamot oil 2 ozs. and palma-rose oil 1 oz. - -_Burdock root hair oil No. 2._--Color 10 lbs. of benzoated olive oil -pale green with chlorophyl, and perfume with bergamot oil 2 ozs., -geranium oil 1¼ ozs., and lavender oil 11 drachms. - -_Macassar hair oil No. 1._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., geranium oil -and lemon oil each 1¼ ozs., cassia oil 14 drachms. Color red with -alkannin. - -_Macassar oil No. 2._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., colored with -alkannin, and perfumed with bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., lemon oil 1¼ ozs., -cinnamon oil 1 drachm, musk essence 1 drachm. - -_Neroli hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., nerolin 5½ drachms -dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil, rose oil 10 drops. - -_Mignonette hair oil No. 1._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., cassia oil -1¼ ozs., geranium oil and tolu-balsam tincture each 11 drachms, nerolin -1 drachm, dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil. - -_Mignonette hair oil No. 2._--Benzoated olive oil 4 lbs., fat -mignonette oil 3 lbs., tolu-balsam tincture 3½ ozs. - -_Fine hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., lemon oil 1¼ ozs., -bergamot oil 15¾ drachms, lavender oil 3¾ drachms, neroli oil -2¾ drachms, rosemary oil 1½ drachms, petit-grain oil 1 drachm. - -_Cheap hair oil_ (_red or yellow_).--Sesame oil or purified colza oil -10 lbs., bergamot oil 2¼ ozs., citronella oil 1⅛ ozs., mirbane oil -10 drachms; _or,_ Portugal oil 2¾ ozs., cassia oil 1 oz., lavender -oil 5½ drachms. - -_Portugal hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., Portugal oil 2 ozs., -bergamot oil 1½ ozs., caraway oil 3¼ drachms. - -_Jasmine hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., fat jasmine oil 1½ -lbs., bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., clove oil 11 drachms, rose-geranium oil -4½ drachms, nerolin 1 drachm, dissolved in a small quantity of warm -oil, thyme oil ½ drachm. - -_Vaseline hair oil No. 1._--White vaseline oil 8 lbs., white olive oil -2 lbs., colored red with alkannin, bergamot oil 1¼ ozs., lavender oil -and lemon oil each 11 drachms, neroli oil 5½ drachms. - -_Vaseline hair oil No. 2._--Yellow vaseline oil 8 lbs., olive oil 2 -lbs., cassia oil 1½ ozs., lemon-grass oil 1 oz., clove oil ½ oz. - -_Vanilla hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., vanillin, dissolved -in a small quantity of warm oil, and Peru balsam, each 5½ drachms, -bergamot oil 1 drachm, musk tincture 10 drops. - -_Ylang-ylang hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 5 lbs., ylang-ylang oil 2 -drachms, rose oil 1 drachm, neroli oil 10 drops. - -_Philocome hair oil._--Melt together benzoated olive oil and yellow wax -each 2 lbs., and when about half cold, add fat orris-root oil and fat -jasmine oil, each 1½ lbs., rose-geranium oil 1 drachm, and stir until -cold. - -_Sultana hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., colored red with -alkannin, bergamot oil 1½ ozs., lavender oil 8 drachms, cinnamon oil 7 -drachms, neroli oil 5½ drachms, geranium oil 3¼ drachms, musk tincture -1 drachm. - -_Rose hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., colored pale red with -alkannin, geranium oil 2 ozs., bergamot oil 1 oz., cassia oil 14 -drachms. - -_Tonka hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., cumarin 10 drachms, -dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil. - -_Violet hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., fat orris-root oil 3 -lbs., bergamot oil 6½ drachms, clove oil 3¼ drachms, cinnamon oil 1 -drachm, rose oil ½ drachm. - -_Victoria hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., slightly colored -with alkannin, palma-rose oil, lavender oil, and citronella oil each 1 -oz., musk tincture 1½ drachms. - -_Cheap hair oil No. 1._--Sunflower oil 500 drachms, bergamot oil 3, -rosemary oil 1, lemon oil 1, neroli and thyme oil each ½. - -_Cheap hair oil No. 2._--Sunflower oil 500 drachms, lemon oil 2, -rosemary oil 3, lavender oil 5, geranium oil 1, musk tincture ¼, -thyme oil 1. - - -BANDOLINES.--Bandolines are mucilaginous liquids, and are prepared -from substances forming mucilage, such as gum-tragacanth, gum-arabic, -Japanese gelatine, quince seeds, flaxseed, etc. Gum-arabic adhering -very firmly, its use, however, cannot be recommended. The substances -above mentioned are heated with water until the mucilaginous matter -is extracted. The latter is then strained through a cloth, and the -mucilaginous, thick, transparent liquid thus obtained perfumed. -Volatile oils dissolving with difficulty in the liquid, an _Extrait_ -is generally used for perfuming, or an aromatic water for dissolving -the gums. If the bandoline is to be colored, an ammoniacal carmine -solution is to be used. Aniline colors should not be employed for the -purpose, since they precipitate upon the scalp and hair, even if only -traces of them are present. - -Bandolines are not very durable; their keeping properties may, however, -be improved by the addition of benzoic or boric acid. - -_Rose bandoline._--Gum-tragacanth 1 lb., rose water 7 lbs. - -Bring the pulverized gum-tragacanth into a suitable earthenware or -enamelled vessel, pour the rose water over it, and let it stand in a -right warm place until by the swelling of the gum a thick mucilage is -formed. If the latter is to remain white, it is first strained through -a coarse linen cloth and then through a finer one; if, however, the -bandoline is to be rose color, triturate in a mortar 1 to 1½ drachms of -best carmine with as little ammonia as possible, and distribute this -coloring matter in the mucilage. For the reception of the bandoline -jars with a sufficiently wide mouth for the index finger to reach to -the bottom are best. - -_Almond bandoline._--Allow 5 lbs. of rose water and 1¼ ozs. of quince -seed to stand, with frequent shaking, for 24 hours. Then strain and -perfume with 2 drachms of bitter almond oil. - - -BRILLIANTINE.--Brilliantine is very popular for giving lustre to the -hair of the head and the beard, and in fact, if correctly prepared, it -has many advantages, since, owing to its composition, it considerably -decreases, even if it does not entirely prevent, the formation of the -annoying dandruff. - -_Flower brilliantine No. 1._--Chemically pure glycerin 1½ ozs., -alcoholic extract No. 2 from French-flower pomade No. 24 10½ ozs., -French _huile antique_ as much as required. - -Vigorously shake the glycerin and alcoholic pomade extract in a glass -flask until a uniform fluid is formed, which should be clear as water. -To give it, however, an oily appearance, carefully mix with it a little -sanders-wood tincture and turmeric tincture. Fill the brilliantine -glasses half full with the above mixture and fill up the glasses with -French _huile antique_ of the same flower-perfume as the respective -alcoholic flower-pomade extract, but do not shake, this being done only -when used. - -Owing to the content of glycerin, which, as well known, is -non-volatile, the consumption of this brilliantine is very economical, -while it is made very agreeable by the fine French flower perfumes. - -If it is desired to prepare the brilliantine at less cost, pure alcohol -may be substituted for the pomade extract and any perfumed hair oil for -the French _huile antique_. - -_Brilliantine No. 2._--For brilliantine of quality II, the glasses are -first filled half full with perfumed hair oil and then filled up with -non-perfumed alcohol slightly colored with sanders-wood tincture or -turmeric tincture. Glycerin is not used, and, hence, in this case the -oil will be on the bottom and the alcohol, being lighter, on top. - -This brilliantine, containing no glycerin, is not so economical as the -preceding. It evaporates quite rapidly and sometimes makes the hair -hard, especially that of persons having naturally dry hair. However, -this second quality is also quite popular and the perfumer must satisfy -the demands of his customers as much as possible. - -_Brilliantine No. 3._--Castor oil 10 lbs., pure alcohol 5 lbs., -Portugal oil 7 ozs., clove oil 1¾ ozs., petit-grain oil 1 oz., -cassia oil 1 oz., citronella oil 11 drachms. - -Mix the alcohol and castor oil in a glass-flask, then add the volatile -oils and shake vigorously. If the castor oil is pure and genuine, it -forms an intimate mixture with the alcohol; if, on the other hand, -traces of oil appear on the surface of the fluid, the castor oil is -adulterated with other fat oils and unsuitable for this purpose. -The castor oil should also be as fresh as possible and, under no -conditions, rancid. - -If this brilliantine is desired of a somewhat yellowish color, the -object may be attained by the addition of sanders-wood tincture or -turmeric tincture. - -That this brilliantine is of an inferior quality is shown by its -composition. It has the further disadvantage that it plasters the -hair, especially when the castor oil becomes old. However, there are -consumers with whom this quality is quite popular. - -The following formulas for brilliantine are taken from various -sources:-- - -I. Veal fat 4 ozs., spermaceti 2 ozs., castor oil 12 ozs., oil of -bitter almonds 1 drop, oil of cloves 10 drops, oil of bergamot 20 -drops. Melt together the first three ingredients, and add the perfumes -when nearly cold. - -II. Almond oil 2½ lbs., spermaceti ½ lb., oil of lemon 3 ozs. Melt -the spermaceti at a low temperature; add the oil and heat until all -flakes disappear. Let the jars into which it is to be poured be warm, -and then cool as slowly as possible to insure good crystals. - -The following, although somewhat peculiar, is offered as a good -brilliantine:-- - -III. Honey 1 fluid oz., glycerin and Cologne water each ½ fluid oz., -alcohol 2 fluid ozs. Mix. - - -HAIR TONICS.--Hair tonics serve for cleansing and invigorating -the scalp and for preventing the hair from falling out. Glycerin -having a beneficial effect upon the scalp is much used as one of the -constituents. The tonics also frequently contain ingredients said -to promote the growth of the hair, such as Peruvian bark extract, -quinine, tincture of cantharides, and substances containing tannin. -Hair tonics containing tincture of cantharides should, however, not be -too frequently used, as otherwise an excessive stimulation of the scalp -might be the result, which would be more injurious than beneficial to -the growth of the hair. - -Some receipts for hair tonics are here given. - -_Eau Athénienne._--Alcohol of best quality 8 quarts, vanilla tincture -1¼ lb., cumarin tincture 7 ozs., bergamot oil 3½ ozs., rose-geranium -oil 11 drachms, clove oil 14 drachms. - -After 8 days, add 1 quart of rose water and mix thoroughly. - -_Florida water No. 1._--Alcohol 50 quarts, best lavender oil 3 lbs., -bergamot oil 1 lb., African rose-geranium oil ½ lb., tinctures of -sanders-wood and turmeric each 11 drachms, distilled water 16 quarts. - -The alcohol, volatile oils, and tinctures are intimately mixed in -a glass balloon, then allowed to stand two to three weeks when -the distilled water is added and the whole vigorously agitated. -After adding the water the fluid becomes very turbid and requires -several weeks to clarify. It is then filtered through paper. If, -notwithstanding filtering, it should remain somewhat turbid, bring a -small quantity of carbonate of magnesia upon the filter. - -_Florida water No. 2._--Alcohol 25 quarts, lavender oil 7 ozs., -palmarosa oil 8 ozs., Portugal oil and red thyme oil each 3½ ozs., -tinctures of sanders-wood and turmeric each 5½ drachms, rain-water 10 -quarts. - -Proceed in the same manner as given for Florida water No. 1. - -_Eau de Cologne hair tonic._--Alcohol 8 quarts, oils of bergamot and -lemons each 1¼ ozs., lavender oil 11 drachms, rosemary oil 5½ drachms, -glycerin of 28° B. 3½ ozs. After 8 days add 7 ozs. of bicarbonate of -soda dissolved in 2½ quarts of distilled water. - -_Eau de quinine._--Alcohol of best quality 20 quarts, tinctures of -gall-nuts and Peruvian bark each 2 quarts, vanilla tincture 1 quart, -bergamot oil 7 ozs., African rose-geranium oil 3½ ozs., clove oil 14 -drachms, glycerin of 28° B. 3 lbs., Panama wood 4 lbs., boiled with -filtered rain-water 12 quarts, bicarbonate of soda 1 lb. dissolved in 1 -quart of water. - -The alcohol, tinctures, and volatile oils are brought into a glass -balloon and after vigorous agitation allowed to stand 8 days for -the volatile oils to dissolve. The decoction of Panama wood is then -added, next the bicarbonate of soda solution, and finally the whole -is thoroughly agitated. The Panama-wood decoction should not be added -while hot, as otherwise the glass balloon might burst. Color the water -with cochineal tincture or henna tincture. - -_Eau de quinine_ (_imitation_).--Alcohol 25 quarts, vanilla tincture -No. 2, 2 quarts, Portugal oil 1 lb., palmarosa oil 8 ozs., clove -oil 3½ ozs., glycerin of 28° B. 3 lbs., Panama wood 3 lbs., boiled -in rain-water 20 quarts, bicarbonate of soda 1 lb., dissolved in -rain-water 1 quart. Proceed in the manner given for genuine _Eau de -quinine_. Color with henna tincture. - -_Honey water._--Alcohol of best quality 8 quarts, orris-root tincture 1 -quart, angelica tincture 1 lb., tonka-bean extract 1¾ ozs., turmeric -tincture, as coloring matter, 5½ drachms, Portugal oil 7¾ ozs., -lemon oil 1¾ ozs., citronella oil 5½ drachms. After 8 days add 1 -liter of orange-flower water. - -_Glycerin hair tonic._--Glycerin of 28° B. 1 quart, borax 1 oz., rose -water 2 quarts, alcohol 4 ozs., oils of petit-grain and cloves each 2 -drachms, rosemary oil 4 drachms. - -Dissolve the borax in the water, the perfume in the alcohol, and mix -all together. It should be clear. Color yellow, if desired, with -saffron tincture. - -_Eau lustral_ (_hair restorative_).--Castor oil 2 quarts, linseed oil -and tincture of cantharides each 4 ozs., alcohol 13 quarts, bergamot -oil 2 ozs., lemon oil 1 oz., clove oil ½ oz., neroli oil 2 drachms. - -Mix the two fat oils and dissolve them in the alcohol by agitation. -Then add the tincture of cantharides and the perfumes, and color red -with cochineal tincture or henna tincture. - -_Tea hair tonic._--Bay rum 2 ozs., glycerin 2 ozs., alcohol 2 ozs., -infusion of black tea 10 ozs. Mix and perfume to suit. The tea -infusion should be made very strong, say 1 oz. of best tea (best -quality) to 10 ozs. of boiling water, let stand till cool, strain, and -add the other ingredients. - -_Locock's lotion for the hair._--Expressed oil of nutmeg 5 fluid ozs., -olive oil and stronger water of ammonia each 20 fluid ozs., spirit -of rosemary 40 fluid ozs., rose water sufficient to make 20 pints. -The above should be mixed with skill, best by gradually pouring the -combined oils, with constant stirring, into the stronger water of -ammonia, previously diluted with the spirit, and afterwards slowly -incorporating the rose water. - -_Shampoo lotion._--New England rum 1 pint, bay rum 12 ozs., glycerin 2 -ozs., carbonate of ammonium 1 oz., borax 2 ozs. - -_Shampoo liquid._--The readiest agent to produce a good lather upon the -hair of the head is a solution of potassa or soda or a dilute water of -ammonia. The latter, however, owing to its penetrating odor, is not -usually liked. - -The following combinations will be found serviceable:-- - -I. Solution of potassa 4 fluid ozs., borax 1 oz., bay rum ½ fluid -oz., tincture of quillaga ½ fluid oz., water enough to make 16 fluid -ozs. This may be scented according to taste. - -II. Fresh eggs 3, spirit of soap 1½ fluid ozs., carbonate of potassium -160 grains, water of ammonia 160 drops, oil-sugar of cumarin 8 grains, -oils of rose and bergamot each 2 drops, French geranium oil 1 drop, -almond oil 1 drop, rose water 27 fluid ozs. Thoroughly beat the 3 eggs, -and then dilute with the rose water. Then add the other ingredients. - -Oil-sugar of cumarin is prepared by triturating 1 part of cumarin with -999 parts of sugar of milk. - -_Dandruff cures._--I. Ointment of nitrate of mercury 1 drachm, -petrolatum 7 drachms. Mix. Cut the hair short and keep well brushed, -and apply the ointment every night for a fortnight. - -II. Red oxide of mercury 10 grains, ammoniated mercury 10 grains, -petrolatum 1 oz. Mix, and apply every night. - -III. Corrosive sublimate 30 grains, glycerin 5 fluid ozs., Cologne -water 5 fluid ozs., water sufficient to make 15 fluid ozs. Mix to make -lotion No. 1. - -Beta naphthol 120 grains, alcohol 20 fluid ozs. Mix to make lotion No. -2. - -Salicylic acid 120 grains, compound tincture of benzoin 20 fluid -drachms, olive oil 10 fluid ozs. Mix to make lotion No. 3. - -Wash the head thoroughly with terebene soap, rinse well, and dry -thoroughly; then rub in some of solution No. 1 and allow to dry, then -use No. 2 in a like manner, and finally apply No. 3. The treatment -should be carried out daily for a month, and then every alternate day -for a fortnight. The dandruff disappears in a few days, and the hair in -a short time becomes vigorous and supple. - -_Dandruff lotion._--Chloral hydrate 1 drachm, glycerin 4 drachms, bay -rum 8 ozs. - -_Bay rum._--Genuine bay rum, as brought into commerce from St. Thomas, -is said to be prepared by twice distilling a fine quality of rum -with the leaves and berries of _Myrcia acris_ or the bayberry tree. -The berries are much richer in volatile oil than the leaves, but on -account of the height of the trees, the gathering of the berries is -connected with so many difficulties and the harvest so scanty, that the -manufacturers prefer to mix leaves and berries in a certain proportion. - -The following directions for preparing bay rum are given in Schimmel & -Co.'s reports:-- - -I. Alcohol of 95 per cent. 4 lbs., water 4 lbs., bay oil 5½ drachms, -pimento oil 2¼ drachms, clove oil 10 drops. Mix, let stand for several -days and filter. - -II. Alcohol of 95 per cent. 4 lbs., bay oil 15 drachms. - -Mix, let stand for 2 weeks, and then add 8 lbs. of best Jamaica rum. -This bay rum is said to be equal to the imported. - -Another receipt for bay rum is as follows:-- - -III. Alcohol of 95 per cent. 1 quart, rectified spirit of 60 per cent. -14 quarts, bay oil 1 oz., loaf sugar 4 ozs. - -Beat up the sugar with the oil and add the alcohol; then the spirit, -and finally filter. - -Mierzinski gives the following formulæ for bay rum:-- - -IV. Alcohol 8 ozs., oil of bay 40 drops, oil of mace 1 grain, oil of -orange 20 drops, Jamaica rum 1 oz., water enough to make 16 ozs. Digest -2 or 3 weeks, and filter through magnesia. - -V. Alcohol 8 ozs., oil of bay 2 drachms, oil of cloves 1 drop, mace 20 -grains, water warmed to 80° F. to make 12 ozs. Dissolve the oils in the -alcohol, digest the mace in the solution for a few days, filter and add -the water. The whole is allowed to stand, with occasional agitation, -for several days, and filtered through magnesia. - -VI. Jamaica rum 36 ozs., 95 per cent. alcohol 36 ozs., oil of bay ½ -oz., oil of pimento 1 drop, acetic ether 4 drops. Allow to stand at -least 3 weeks before using. - - -HAIR DYES.--The requirements of a good hair-dye are that it can be -readily applied, that it contains no injurious substances, and that -the coloration be as natural and durable as possible. These demands -are difficult to fulfil, and it cannot be said that there is one -of the ordinary hair dyes which in every respect comes up to them. -Black hair dyes give the most natural coloration, but the peculiar -shade of blue-black hair cannot be imitated. The medium colors, light -brown and blonde, are the least natural. Most dyes allow of rapid -coloration, though, in order to make the deception more complete, a -gradual coloration is by many persons preferred. Such gradual, though -only very slightly darker coloration, is attained by the use of hair -oils and certain animal fats containing a slight content of sulphur or -iron, such as freshly expressed egg oil and neat's-foot oil. It was -formerly believed that egg oil, if used in time, would even prevent the -hair from turning gray. The gradual darkening of the hair may also be -effected by agents, which are converted into colored combinations only -by the atmospheric oxygen or the content of sulphur in the hair, such -as extract from nut shells, tannin, pyrogallic acid and many metals, -the latter chiefly in the form of pomades or hair oil. Dilute acids -used for some time make the hair somewhat lighter. Mothers wishing to -keep the hair of their children blonde, avoid oils, and frequently wash -the heads of the children with vinegar or lemon juice. No coloration -is, however, durable; it becomes in the course of time gradually -weaker, and the new growth of hair always requires after-coloration. - -For dyeing the hair metallic salts are chiefly employed. Owing to -their poisonous action the use of _lead salts_ for the purpose is -prohibited in some countries, for instance, in Germany and Austria. -_Silver_ is used in the form of _nitrate of silver_ (lunar caustic). -In the presence of organic substances, as well as under the influence -of light, this combination is reduced, metallic silver in small black -grains being separated. Silver salts also give a black precipitate -of silver sulphide with sulphuretted hydrogen. By simply moistening -the hair with silver solution they become brown to brown-black, the -coloration appearing more rapidly by previously treating the hair with -pyrogallic acid, or, after the application of the silver solution, -with sulphydrate of sodium or potassium. The colorations produced -with nitrate of silver are very durable, but, if not dyed again for -some time, the hair acquires a greenish or reddish color, this being -especially the case if they were not sufficiently freed from fat before -dyeing. For freeing the hair from fat, wash the hair with a mixture of -1 part spirit of sal ammonia in 10 parts of brandy, and dry carefully. - -_Copper salts_ with certain substances, such as potassium ferrocyanide -solution, potassium sulphydrate, calcium sulphydrate, and pyrogallic -acid give dark-brown colorations. Of the copper salts, the sulphate in -ammoniacal solution is most frequently employed, though occasionally -also the chloride. These salts give a beautiful brown color to the -hair. Small quantities of copper salt are also frequently added to the -actual black dyes; the hair by this means acquiring a brown-black, -instead of a deep black color. - -All the _iron salts_, with the exception of the chloride, may be used -for dyeing the hair. Soluble iron salts by themselves make the hair -somewhat darker, but this slow, natural process is not relied on, and -a second substance forming dark colored combinations with the iron, -such as sulphur, tannin, or pyrogallic acid, is, as a rule, employed. -To this class belongs a _Turkish hair dye_, which, according to X. -Landerer, is prepared as follows: Gall-nuts converted to a fine powder -are mixed with oil and roasted in a pan until no more empyreumatic -vapors and odor are evolved. The black powder thus obtained is -made into a paste with water, and into it is stirred a finely -pulverized mass prepared from ferrous oxide, copper, and antimony, -the result being a deep black mass. This dye is called _Rastikopetra_ -(eyebrow-stone). It is one of the Oriental cosmetics used by both men -and women. - -_Potassium permanganate solution_ is reduced by organic substances, -peroxide of manganese being formed. A concentrated solution of this -salt imparts to the hair and skin an intense brown color, which, -however, is not very durable, and requires frequent renewing. - -_Pyrogallic acid_ may be used for darkening the hair, not only in -combination with metallic substances, but also by itself, or with -alkalies. Hair moistened with pyrogallic acid becomes under the -influence of light and air dark gray to blackish. However, the color is -not handsome, and appears only in the course of weeks. In connection -with alkalies, pyrogallic acid produces a red-brown to black-brown -coloration. - -Under the name of _Kohol_, an extremely fine powder, consisting of -black sulphide of antimony, is used in Egypt by all classes for -blackening the edges of the eyelids and the eyebrows. - -A hair dye, much used in the Orient, is _henna_, the dried and -pulverized leaves of _Lawsonia inermis_. By the women this powder is -used for coloring the hair and nails red-brown. In the Turkish sweating -baths the attendants scatter the henna upon the hair of the women and -tie it upon the finger nails. The women then frequently remain for -hours in the steam bath, whereby the powdered henna is converted into -an extract-like mass which colors hair and nails red-brown. It is said -that henna even colors the coal-black hair of the Arabs red-brown, -which is considered beautiful. Before treating with henna, the hair -must be freed from fat with soap or fuller's earth. - -Hair dyed red with henna acquires a beautiful black color when -subsequently treated with indigo, this mode of dyeing black being much -in vogue in the Orient. The process is as follows: The hair, being -freed from fat with soap, is divided into separate strands and anointed -with quite a stiff paste prepared from pulverized henna and lukewarm -water. The hair, after being smoothed, is allowed to remain for at -least one hour in contact with the paste, and is then rinsed off with -lukewarm water. Being slightly dried, it is then in the same manner -anointed with a paste prepared from indigo and water, and allowed to -remain in contact with it for one hour. The hairs which were colored -orange-red by the henna, now have a greenish-black appearance, but -by the oxidation of the indigo in a short time acquire an intensely -blue-black color, which is extraordinarily durable, the hair only after -several months requiring to be again dyed. - -The freshly expressed juice and the fresh parenchyma of _green walnut -shells_, or of unripe walnuts, gradually color light or gray hair dark -to nut-brown. The coloring substance is not thoroughly known, but is -very likely a phloroglucide; it is extracted by fats and alcohol, but, -according to Paschkis, is no longer effective in such solution. This, -however, is not correct in regard to the alcoholic extract, because the -extract from ordinary walnut shells, prepared by mixing the expressed -juice of green walnut shells with 10 parts of alcohol, allowing the -mixture to stand for ten days, and then filtering, also colors brown. - -_Peroxide of hydrogen_ bleaches organic substances, dark or red hair -being thereby changed to reddish-yellow or pale blonde. The coloration, -or rather bleaching, does not appear at once, but is complete only -after some time. The peroxide of hydrogen only exists in aqueous -solution, which should be quite concentrated (15 to 20 per cent.). -Owing to the mode of preparation, the solution always contains some -nitric acid and readily decomposes, when exposed to light and air, -whereby it becomes useless. - -In the following, a number of formulæ for hair-dyes are given. -According to their constitution, they may be divided into two groups, -viz: A. Dyes which contain the coloring matter in a finished state; -and, B. Dyes which are formed upon the hair by a chemical process. The -dye should first be applied in a dilute state, and the application -repeated in case the desired shade is not produced, since by the use -of the dye in a concentrated form a shade not resembling any natural -color might be obtained, hair which is to be colored black acquiring, -for instance, a metallic blue-black lustre. - - -A. SINGLE HAIR DYES. _Teinture Orientale (Karsi)._--Ambergris 2¾ -drachms, gall-nuts 4 lbs., pulverized iron 1¾ ozs., pulverized -copper 1 drachm, musk 1 drachm. Convert the gall-nuts to a fine powder, -and roast the powder in an iron pan, stirring constantly until it is -dark brown to blackish. Rub the powder together with the metallic -powders, and the perfume substances and keep the mixture in a damp -place. For use moisten some of the powder upon the hand and apply to -the hair, rubbing it in vigorously. In a few days the hair acquires a -deep black, quite natural color. In roasting, the tannin-substances -contained in the gall-nuts are converted into gallic and pyrogallic -acids, which yield with the metals combinations of a deep black color, -and are even readily converted into black-brown bodies (humin bodies). - -_Teinture Chinoise (Kohol)._--Gum-arabic 1 oz., Chinese ink 1¾ ozs., -rose-water 1 quart. Reduce the gum-arabic and Chinese ink to fine -powder, and triturate the powder in small quantities with rose water -until a homogeneous black fluid free from grains is formed. Collect -this fluid in a bottle and mix it with the remaining rose water. Kohol -is only suitable for persons with black hair and is especially used for -dyeing the eyebrows. The coloring matter of this preparation consisting -only of carbon in a very finely divided state, it is perfectly -harmless. - -_Potassium permanganate hair dye._--Potassium permanganate 5 ozs., -distilled water 2 quarts. Crystallized potassium permanganate dissolves -with great ease in water to a deep violet fluid. By bringing the -solution in contact with an organic substance--paper, linen, skin, -horn, hair--it rapidly discolors, imparting to the substances a brown -color, which originates from peroxide of manganese. Free the hair from -fat by washing, and apply the dilute solution with a soft brush. The -color appears immediately, and according to the degree of dilution, all -shades of color from blonde to darkest brown may be produced with this -perfectly harmless agent. It may, of course, also be used for dyeing -the beard. - -_Bismuth hair dye._--Subnitrate of bismuth 10 parts, 10 per cent. -solution of potassa and citric acid each a sufficient quantity, -glycerin 150 parts, water sufficient to make 300 parts. Intimately -mix the subnitrate of bismuth and the glycerin by trituration, then -heat the mixture in a water-bath, and gradually add to it solution of -potassa, under constant stirring, until the bismuth salt is dissolved. -Next add a concentrated solution of citric acid until only a slight -alkalinity remains. Finally add enough water to make 300 parts, and -perfume according to preference. - -_Walnut hair dye._--Bruise 40 parts of fresh green walnut peel with 5 -parts of alum, digest with 200 parts of olive oil until all moisture -has been dissipated, strain and perfume the oil according to preference. - -_Pyrogallic hair stain._--Pyrogallic acid ½ oz., water 3 ozs., -alcohol 1 oz. This liquid gives a dark brown color. - -B. DOUBLE HAIR DYES.--These and similar hair dyes consist of two -preparations, kept in bottles I and II. The bottle II, which serves -for the reception of the silver preparation, must be of blue or black -glass, since silver salts are decomposed by light. For use, pour some -of the fluid in bottle I into a cup, and moisten the hair with it by -means of a soft brush. Then pour the fluid in bottle II into another -cup, and apply it with another brush. - -_For dyeing brown._ I (in the white bottle).--Liver of sulphur 7 ozs., -alcohol 1 quart. II (in the dark bottle). Nitrate of silver 4 ozs., -distilled water 1 quart. - -_For dyeing black._ I (in the white bottle).--Liver of sulphur 8 ozs., -alcohol 1 quart. II (in the dark bottle).--Nitrate of silver 5 ozs., -distilled water 1 quart. - -Liver of sulphur is a leather-brown mass, readily soluble in water. -The solution has to be filtered before it is brought into the bottles. -By bringing the solutions together black sulphide of silver is formed, -which effects the dark coloration of the hair. After using the dye, a -disagreeable odor of stale eggs adheres to the hair, which is, however, -readily removed by washing. - -The silver hair dyes may also be made by preparing the fluid in bottle -II as follows: Add drop by drop water of ammonia to the silver nitrate, -kept constantly agitated until the precipitate formed is redissolved. - -_Tannin hair dye._ I (in the white bottle).--Pulverized gall-nuts -14 ozs., water 16 ozs., rose water 16 ozs. Boil the gall-nuts in -the water, strain the boiling fluid through a close cloth into the -rose water, and bring the fluid thus obtained, while still hot, into -the bottles, which should be immediately closed. (It is absolutely -necessary to bring the fluid hot into the bottles, as otherwise mould -is readily formed.) II (in the dark bottle).--Nitrate of silver 5 ozs., -distilled water 1 quart. Add water of ammonia to the silver solution -until the precipitate at first formed is redissolved. - -_Melanogène._ I (in the dark bottle).--Nitrate of silver 5½ drachms, -distilled water 2¾ ozs., water of ammonia 1 oz. II (in the white -bottle).--Pyrogallic acid ½ drachm, 40 per cent. spirit of wine 17 -ozs. - -_Eau d'Afrique._ I (in the dark bottle).--Nitrate of silver 1½ drachms, -distilled water 3½ ozs. II (in the white bottle).--Sodium sulphide 4½ -drachms, distilled water 3½ ozs. - -_Krinochrom._ I (in the white bottle).--Pyrogallic acid 5½ drachms, -distilled water 6¼ ozs., alcohol 5½ ozs. II (in the dark bottle). -Nitrate of silver 6¾ drachms, water of ammonia 2 ozs., distilled -water 10½ ozs. - -_Copper hair dye._ I (in the white bottle).--Potassium ferrocyanide -(yellow prussiate of potash) 7 ozs., distilled water 1 quart. II (in -the dark bottle).--Cupric sulphate (blue vitriol) 7 ozs., distilled -water 1 quart. Add to the cupric sulphate solution water of ammonia -until the pale blue precipitate at first formed is dissolved to a -beautiful dark blue fluid. This hair dye gives a dark brown color, but -great care has to be exercised in its use, the yellow prussiate of -potash being very poisonous. - - -DEPILATORIES.--While the number of agents for promoting the growth of -the hair is a very small one, and their efficacy not above doubt, there -are, on the other hand, quite a number of very effective agents for -the removal of hair, sulphur combinations being most frequently used -for the purpose. _Rhusma_ is a depilatory which has long been known, -and is still almost exclusively used in the Orient. It consists of 1 -part orpiment and 6 parts of lime slaked to a powder. Mix intimately -by passing the ingredients through a sieve, and preserve the mixture -in tightly-closed vessels. For use, stir some of the powder to a paste -with water, and apply it to the place upon which the hairs are to be -destroyed. As soon as the layer of paste begins to dry remove it with a -thin shaving of wood. Owing to the energetic action of this depilatory -upon the skin, ladies are advised not to use it for the face. - -Combinations of sulphur with the alkalies and alkaline earths are -much used as depilatories. Of these, _sodium sulphydrate_, however, -should never be used, without the advice of a physician, as it acts -very energetically upon the skin, and frequently leaves scars behind. -_Calcium sulphide_ is contained in Boettger's depilatory. It is usually -prepared by heating at a low red heat in a securely-closed crucible -an intimate mixture of 100 parts of finely-powdered quicklime with 90 -parts of precipitated sulphur. Of the calcium sulphide thus obtained, -mix 1 lb. with 8 ozs. of starch and 7 drachms of lemon oil. Apply the -paste to the place upon which the hairs are to be destroyed, allowing -it to remain 20 to 30 seconds. The action of _barium sulphide_, which -is frequently used as a depilatory, is much less energetic than that -of calcium sulphide. It is, for instance, a constituent of Bartholow's -depilatory, which consists of barium sulphide 1 part, caustic lime 1 -part, and starch 2 parts, made into a paste with alcohol. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - -COSMETICS. - - -Under this heading will be considered toilet vinegars, washes, perfumed -powders, pastes, skin pomades, as well as paints. - -The fabrication of cosmetics is an important branch of perfumery. The -materials used for the purpose should be selected and of good quality -even for cheap articles, which are, of course, also represented in the -following receipts. - - -SKIN COSMETICS.--_Toilet vinegars._--Perfumed vinegars, when added to -wash water, have a refreshing effect and are also used as fumigating -agents by mixing them with water in a dish and placing the latter in -the room. - -_Vinaigre de Bully._--Alcohol of best quality 10 quarts, tinctures -of orris root, tolu balsam, benzoin and storax, each 1 lb., olibanum -tincture ½ lb., vanilla tincture and best lavender oil 5¼ ozs., -bergamot oil and lemon oil each 4¼ ozs., acetic acid 2 lbs. - -_Vinaigre de toilette à la rose._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, -benzoin tincture 1 lb., angelica tincture 8 ozs., _extrait rose_ No. 1, -1 lb., French rose geranium oil 3½ ozs., acetic acid 14 ozs. - -_Vinaigre de toilette à la violette._--Alcohol of best quality 5 -quarts, orris-root tincture 2 quarts, tinctures of benzoin and storax -each 7 ozs., bergamot oil 2½ ozs., liquid orris-root oil[24] 11 -drachms, acetic acid 1 lb. - - [24] See foot-note, p. 257. - -_Vinaigre de toilette héliotrope._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, -tinctures of orris root and vanilla each 1 quart, musk root tincture 3½ -ozs., benzoin tincture 1 lb., bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., verbena oil and -palmarosa oil each 14 drachms, clove oil 8¼ drachms, acetic acid 1 lb. - -_Vinaigre de toilette orange._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, -benzoin tincture 10½ ozs., abelmosk tincture and vitivert tincture each -8 ozs., civet tincture 14 drachms, Portugal oil 8 ozs., acetic acid 14 -ozs. - -_Vinaigre de toilette._--Alcohol of best quality 10 quarts, orris-root -tincture 1⅗ lbs., tinctures of benzoin, tolu balsam and angelica -each 1 lb., French rose-geranium oil 1¾ ozs., bergamot oil 4¼ ozs., -lemon oil and lavender oil each 3½ ozs., neroli oil 8¼ drachms, best -rosemary oil 11 drachms, peppermint oil 5½ drachms, acetic acid 2 lbs. - -_Aromatic vinegar._--Tincture of benzoin 1 oz., alcohol 1⅛ oz., -acetic ether and extract of jasmine each 1½ ozs., acetic acid 3½ ozs., -oil of rose 10 drops, oils of neroli and wintergreen each 5 drops. - -_English aromatic vinegar._--Crystallized acetic acid 20 ozs., camphor -2 ozs., oil of lavender 10 drops, oil of cloves 30 drops, oil of -cinnamon 15 drops. Mix and dissolve. - -The preparation is used for smelling-bottles. The vials are first -filled with sulphate of potassa in small crystals, and enough acetic -acid is added to thoroughly moisten the salt. The use of sulphate of -potassa is said to have originated from the fact, that the acid mixture -was formerly obtained by introducing into the vials acetate of potassa -and a sufficiency of sulphuric acid. Whether this be true or not, -sulphate of potassa constitutes an excellent medium for retaining the -liquid in the bottle. It acts simply as an incorrodible sponge. - -_Toilet vinegar._--Essence of bergamot 20 drops, essence of ambergris -4 drachms, essence of vanilla and oil of neroli each 30 drops, strong -acetic acid 160 drops, alcohol 6 ozs. - -_Washes._--Washes are mostly milky fluids or emulsions, formed by the -fine division of resins or balsams in water, benzoin and myrrh being -especially employed for the purpose. Of the former, it was at one time -believed that fumigations with it every evening after washing would -prevent wrinkles in the face. The emulsions are used by adding one to -two tablespoonfuls to the wash-water. Perfumed glycerin is also much -employed as an addition to wash-water. - -_Virginal milk_ (_Lait virginal_).--Alcohol of finest quality 2½ -quarts, bergamot oil and Turkish rose oil each 5½ drachms, benzoin -tincture 1 quart. - -Pulverize in a porcelain mortar about 14 drachms of sugar, add the -bergamot oil and rose oil and mix intimately. Now bring the paste-like -substance into a glass bottle, rinse out the mortar with the alcohol -and add the latter to the contents of the bottle. Close the latter with -a well-fitting stopper and place it in a warm room for 8 days, shaking -frequently. Then add the benzoin tincture, mix intimately and finally -filter through paper. This fluid is used by adding sufficient of it -to the wash-water to form an emulsion, which exerts a refreshing and -invigorating effect upon the skin and olfactory nerves. - -_Rose milk_ (_Lait de rose_).--Rose water 5 lbs., white beeswax and -comminuted Castile soap each 3½ ozs., potash 4½ ozs., _Extrait rose_ -No. 1 8 ozs. - -Heat the rose-water in an enamelled or porcelain vessel, and dissolve -in it the Castile soap. Then add the wax, and, when this is dissolved, -the potash, stirring constantly, while the substances are dissolving. -When solution is complete, strain the milk-like fluid through a cloth -(best gauze or muslin) into another vessel, cover it and allow it to -cool. When cold add the _Extrait rose_, shake thoroughly and fill it -into bottles for sale. - -If the _Lait de rose_ is to be rose color, add very carefully a small -quantity of corallin tincture and shake vigorously. - -Besides wax, fatty or oily substances should not be employed in the -preparation of these emulsions, as otherwise they would soon become -rancid. - -_Almond milk_ (_Lait d'amandes amères_).--Distilled water 5 lbs., -bitter almonds 1 lb., white beeswax 1¾ ozs., comminuted Castile soap -2½ ozs., potash 3½ ozs., bitter-almond oil 8¼ drachms, dissolved in -extract from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 8 ozs. - -Scald and peel the bitter almonds. Then convert them to a paste by -pounding in a clean mortar, bring the paste into the distilled water, -and extract in a water-bath for about ½ hour. Then strain the liquid -through a cloth, successively dissolve the other substances in the -strained fluid in the water-bath, and when all is dissolved, strain -again and proceed as given for rose milk. The bitter-almond oil is -dissolved in the extract from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ and added last of all -to the liquid mass. - -_Lily milk_ (_Lait de lys_).--Rose water, orange-flower water, and -jasmine water each 1 quart, white beeswax 3½ ozs., Castile soap 2½ -ozs., potash and orris-root tincture each 3½ ozs., cumarin tincture -1¾ ozs., dissolved in musk-root tincture 3½ ozs., bergamot oil 1¾ -ozs. Proceed as given for _Lait de Rose_. - -In regard to the Castile soap, it may here be remarked that it -should be neutral and contain no excess of oil, as otherwise all the -preparations above given might, in a short time, become rancid. - -_Perfumed glycerin with rose odor._--Chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. -10 lbs., _Extrait rose_ No. 1, 8 ozs. - -By adding the _Extrait rose_, the glycerin becomes turbid, but -clarifies by shaking thoroughly and allowing the mixture to stand -quietly for several days. Filtering the fluid is not advisable, and -besides entirely useless. - -_Perfumed glycerin with fruit odor._--Chemically pure glycerin of 28° -B. 10 lbs., any kind of fruit ether 1¾ ozs. Shake thoroughly. The -glycerin, if chemically pure, is not rendered turbid by the fruit -ether, which, of course, must also be of the best quality. - - -PERFUMED MEALS AND PASTES.--The perfumed meals are frequently used -for washing in place of soap, or they are applied after washing, or -shaving, to the skin to prevent the latter from becoming rough or -chapped. The pastes are applied in order to make the skin softer. - -_Farin de noisette_ (_nut meal_).--Best quality wheat flour 3 lbs., -almond meal 1½ lbs., orris-root powder 1 lb., bergamot oil 2 ozs. - -Mix the ingredients intimately and pass the mixture through a fine -sieve. - -_Farin d'amandes amères_ (_almond meal_).--Best quality wheat flour and -almond meal each 3 lbs., bitter-almond oil 1 oz. - -Mix the ingredients intimately and pass the mixture through a fine -sieve. - -_Pate d'amandes au miel_ (_honey almond paste_).--Best quality almond -meal 2 lbs., honey 4 lbs., chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 2 lbs., -fresh olive oil 4 lbs., bitter-almond oil 1¾ ozs., the yolks of 20 -eggs. - -Sift the almond meal into a capacious earthenware dish. Mix the honey -and glycerin after slightly warming them. Beat the yolks of the eggs -in a small dish with a tablespoon until a uniform mass is formed. Now -add alternately of the mixture of honey and glycerin and of the olive -oil to the almond meal, work the whole thoroughly with the pestle, -then add the yolks of the eggs, stirring constantly, and finally the -bitter-almond oil. The whole now forms a viscous mass. It is best to -keep the freshly-prepared paste in a well-closed earthenware pot in a -cool place for about 14 days before distributing it into boxes, because -after the ingredients are mixed together a slight fermentation takes -place which might cause damage by bursting the lids of the porcelain -boxes. - -Ladies use this paste for producing a fine soft skin, upon the hands, -face, and neck, for which, in fact, it has proved excellent. - -_Poudre de riz à la rose._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., -_Extrait rose_ No. 1, 3½ ozs., French rose-geranium oil 14 drachms, -clove oil 2¾ drachms. - -The ingredients are intimately mixed and passed through a sieve. The -perfumes are brought together in a glass and thoroughly shaken. The -same directions hold good for all succeeding receipts for _Poudre de -riz_. Of talc only the whitest pieces should be used, the Briancon talc -or French chalk being very suitable for the purpose, it yielding a very -white and delicate powder. It is prepared as follows: Over 1 part of -talc pour 2 parts of vinegar, let it stand, with frequent shaking, for -14 days, then filter and thoroughly wash the talc with distilled water. - -If rose-colored _poudre de riz rose_ is demanded, add to the -proportions of weight above given about 1 oz. of madder, triturate it -thoroughly with the powder, perfume, triturate again, and finally pass -the whole through a fine sieve. - -These rice powders are best kept in well-closed tin canisters. - -_Poudre de riz héliotrope._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., -bergamot oil 10 drachms, French rose-geranium oil 5 drachms, clove oil -2½ drachms, vanilla tincture 10 drachms, _Extrait héliotrope_ No. 1, -1¾ ozs. - -Proceed as directed for _Poudre de riz à la rose_. - -_Poudre de riz à la violette._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 -ozs., bergamot oil 10 drachms, liquid orris-root oil 2½ drachms, -_Extrait Violette_ No. 1, 1 oz., cumarin tincture 5 drachms. - -Proceed as directed for _Poudre riz à la rose_. - -_Poudre de riz orange._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., -Portugal oil 1 oz., petit-grain oil 5 drachms, extract from _Pommade -Orange_ 1 oz. - -Proceed as directed for _Poudre riz à la rose_. - -_Poudre de riz muguet._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., -ylang-ylang oil, wintergreen oil, angelica oil, and bitter-almond -oil each 2 drops, bergamot oil 5 drops, storax tincture 14 drachms, -_Extrait Muguet_ No. 1, 3½ ozs. - -Proceed as directed for _Poudre de riz à la rose_. - -_Poudre de riz ixora._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 oz., -bergamot oil 2½ drachms, Ceylon cinnamon oil 1 drachm, tinctures of -orris root and vanilla each 1¾ ozs., extract from _Pomm. Cassie_ or -_Extrait ixora_ 1¾ ozs. - -Proceed as directed for _Poudre de riz à la rose_. - -_Poudre de riz bouquet._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., -bergamot oil 8 drachms, African rose oil and Ceylon cinnamon oil each -2¾ drachms, _Extrait ess-bouquet_ No. 1, 3½ ozs. - -Proceed as directed for _Poudre de riz à la rose_. - - -COLD CREAMS AND LIP-SALVES.--The purpose of cold creams and lip-salves -is to impart lustre to the skin and protect it from cracking in changes -of temperature. - -_Cold cream._--Fat-almond oil 3 lbs., spermaceti 5¼ ozs., white beeswax -7 ozs., best rose water 1 quart, bergamot oil 14 drachms, Turkish rose -oil 5½ drachms. - -Melt in a porcelain dish in the water-bath, first the spermaceti -and wax, then add the almond oil, and when the whole forms a liquid -allow the previously warmed rose water to flow in slowly, stirring -constantly. Now take the dish from the water-bath, and with a large -spoon of silver or horn stir the mass until it begins to thicken. Then -stir in the perfume and fill the finished cold cream in boxes. - -_Vaseline cold cream._--White vaseline 2 lbs., fat-almond oil 1 lb., -white beeswax 1¾ ozs., bergamot oil 14 drachms, French rose-geranium -oil and Turkish rose oil each 2½ drachms. - -Proceed (without the rose water) as directed for cold cream. - -_Glycerin cream._--Fat-almond oil 3 lbs., white beeswax and spermaceti -each 7 ozs., chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 1 lb., bergamot oil -1 oz., clove oil, Turkish rose oil, and French geranium oil each 2½ -drachms. Proceed as above. - -_Crême de concombre._--Fat-almond oil 8 ozs., white beeswax 10 drachms, -spermaceti 12 drachms, freshly-expressed cucumber juice 7 ozs., -volatile cucumber oil 2½ drachms, bergamot oil 1½ drachms. - -Grate the cucumbers on a grater, place the grated mass upon a clean -white cloth, and gently express the juice so that no mucus passes -through the cloth. The cucumber juice is slightly warmed, the rest of -the process being the same as with cold cream. - -_Glycerin gelée._--Gum-tragacanth 5½ drachms, swelled up in rose water -10½ ozs., chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 7 ozs., honey 3½ ozs., -_Extrait rose_ No. 1, 1¾ ozs. - -Convert the gum tragacanth to a coarse powder, bring the powder into -a capacious glass flask, pour the rose water upon it, and, after -corking the flask, let it stand for about 3 days, shaking it frequently -and vigorously. Then strain the swelled gum tragacanth, which now -represents a thick fluid, through a white cloth or fine-meshed sieve -into a dish, and after adding the glycerin, honey, and _Extrait rose_, -mix the whole intimately, and fill the tubes or glasses with the -finished preparation. It is an approved remedy for chapped skin. - -_Glycerin jelly._--Glycerin 1 lb., fat-almond oil 3 lbs., soap 2½ ozs., -orange-peel oil 2¾ drachms, thyme oil 5½ drachms. - -Mix the soap with the glycerin, gradually add the oil, and finally the -perfume. - -_Cream of roses._--Gum tragacanth 25 grains, glycerin 1 oz., alcohol -½ oz., water 6½ ozs., boric acid 40 grains, spirits of lavender and -bergamot each 1 oz. - -_Boroglycerin cream._--Dissolve 1 part of boric acid in 24 parts of -glycerin; add to this solution 5 parts of lanolin and 70 parts of -petrolatum. This preparation is said to be excellent for chapped hands, -lips, etc. - -_Récamier cream._--The following formula is said to produce something -quite similar to this preparation: zinc oxide 4 ozs., glycerin 13 fluid -drachms, water 5 fluid drachms, spirit of rose (4 drachms to 1 pint) 1 -fluid drachm. - -_Preparations for chapped hands._--I. Quince seed 2 ozs., rose water 16 -ozs., glycerin 32 ozs., tincture of benzoin 2 ozs. Macerate the quince -seeds in the rose water 24 hours, strain, and add the glycerin and -benzoin. - -II. Balsam of Peru 1 drachm, purified wool fat 1 oz. Perfume to suit. - -III. Menthol 1.5 parts, salol 2, olive oil 2, lanolin 50. Apply twice -daily. The pain soon ceases, the skin softens and the chaps quickly -disappear. - -IV. Quince seed 1½ drachms, boric acid 4 grains, carbolic acid 10 -grains, glycerin 2 ozs., alcohol 3 ozs., cologne 2 ozs., oil of -lavender 20 drops, glycerite of starch 2 ozs., water sufficient to make -1 pint. Dissolve the boric acid in 8 ozs. of water, macerate the quince -seed in the solution for three hours and then press through a straining -cloth, add the glycerin, carbolic acid and glycerite of starch and mix -thoroughly. Mix the cologne and oil of lavender with the alcohol, add -the solution to the mucilage and mix the whole well. - -_Wash for the hands.-_-Tannin 8 grains, glycerin 5 drachms, rose water -4 ozs. Mix and filter. The hands should be washed with soap in soft -water, or water to which a little borax has been added, thoroughly -dried and then well rubbed with the lotion. - -_Nail-powder._--The following preparation serves for the purpose of -imparting smoothness and lustre to the finger nails. For use apply some -of the powder to a piece of soft glove-leather and rub the nails until -they show lustre. - -Stannic oxide (putty powder) 2 lbs., carmine 5½ drachms, oils of -bergamot and lavender each 2½ drachms. Rub the stannic oxide as fine as -possible and mix it in the mortar with the other ingredients. - -_Lip-salve_ No. 1.--_Pomm. Rose_ No. 24 or 30, 8 ozs., best carmine -nacarat 2½ drachms. - -Convert the carmine to a fine powder and thoroughly triturate it with -the _Pomm. Rose_ in a porcelain mortar until no more specks of carmine -are perceptible. By this trituration the salve becomes very soft -and delicate, so that it can be conveniently pressed into the small -boxes. A pleasing lustre is then imparted to the surface of the salve -by carefully moving each box to and fro over the flame of an alcohol -lamp. It may here be remarked that carmine nacarat is the best coloring -matter for lip-salve, it being far more resistant than, for instance, -alkannin, which, in contact with the skin, readily acquires a bluish -coloration. - -If lip-salve of a more solid consistency is desired, the object may be -attained by the addition of a few drachms of white beeswax. However, -in this case, the pomade must be melted in a water-bath, or the pomade -and wax melted together. Then add the carmine, stir until cold, fill -into boxes and make the surface lustrous over an alcohol flame. - -_Lip-salve_ No. 2.--_Pomm. Rose_ No. 6 or 12, 10½ ozs., _Huile antique -rose_ No. 6 or 12, 14 drachms, white beeswax 5½ drachms, carmine -nacarat 2¾ drachms. - -Melt the wax in a porcelain or enamelled vessel, then add, first, the -oil, combine it with the wax, then add the pomade and finally the -carmine. When all this is intimately mixed, stir it until cold. The -further process is the same as given for No. 1. - - -PAINTS.--The object of paints is to hide blemishes of the skin and to -impart to it a different color--as a rule a youthful one--from that -bestowed by nature, though under certain conditions, especially in the -case of actors, they are also employed for the purpose of changing the -expression of the face. A distinction is made between pulverulent, -solid, liquid and fat paints. - - -PULVERULENT PAINTS (POWDERS).--The simplest powder is wheat starch. -It forms a dull white powder with a bluish lustre, and is perfectly -harmless. Powdered talc, prepared in the manner previously described -(p. 330), is also much used for powder. By mixing 100 parts of prepared -talc, while still moist, with 12 parts of spermaceti, previously rubbed -to a moist powder with some rectified alcohol, and drying at a moderate -heat, a product known in commerce as "Blanc fard," or "Blanc français," -is obtained. - -Talc by itself not furnishing a beautiful white, it is mixed, according -to circumstances, with _subnitrate of bismuth_ (_flake-white_), -_magnesia_, _chalk_ or _zinc-white_. _White lead_, though frequently -used, cannot be recommended, it being injurious to health. Subnitrate -of bismuth furnishes the best white; it has, however, the disadvantage -of turning brown in air containing sulphuretted hydrogen. Zinc-white -does not have this defect, but lacks the lustre and pure white color. - -Customary mixtures for powders are as follows:-- - -I. Carbonate of magnesia and wheat starch each 5 parts, prepared talc -15, zinc-white 10. - -II. Carbonate of magnesia and chalk each 5 parts, prepared talc 15, -subnitrate of bismuth 20. - -The powders are prepared in three colors: white, rose-color and -yellowish. To heighten the white color the powder is mixed with about -⅓ of one per cent. of ultra-marine. For rose color some carmine is -used, and for coloring yellowish some carmine and yellow ochre. - -A powder for coloring more intensely red is prepared as follows: Mix -100 parts of prepared talc with 2.5 or more parts of carmine, according -to the desired shade of color. The carmine is triturated by itself and -in small portions added to the talc. It should not be dissolved, as -given in many directions, in ammonia, it losing thereby its fiery red. -To obtain an especially delicate powder, the finished article should be -carefully bolted through silk. - - -SOLID PAINTS.--Solid paints may be prepared from the above-mentioned -powders by stirring them to a paste with thin gum solution. - -_Ordinary red paint_ (_rouge_).--Prepared talc 2 lbs., carmine 1 oz., -gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared from distilled water 3½ ozs. and -gum-tragacanth 2¼ drachms, best olive oil 5½ drachms, best alcohol 1 -oz., spirits of sal ammoniac ½ tablespoonful, distilled water as much -as required. - -_Fine red paint_ (_rouge_).--Prepared talc 2 lbs., carmine 1½ ozs., -gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared from distilled water 3½ ozs. and -gum-tragacanth 2¼ drachms, best olive oil 5½ drachms, _Extrait rose_ -No. 1, 1 oz., spirits of sal ammoniac ½ tablespoonful, rose water as -much as required. - -_White paint._--Prepared talc 2 lbs., gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared -from distilled water 3½ ozs. and gum-tragacanth 2¼ drachms, best olive -oil 5½ drachms, _Extrait rose_ No. 1, 1 oz., rose water as much as -required. - -The above-mentioned paints may be filled in small porcelain boxes, -which must, however, be hermetically closed to prevent drying out. To -obviate the latter, the paints may be mixed with glycerin, which must, -however, be carefully done so that the mass does not become liquid; too -much glycerin may also make the paint blue. - -Regarding the preparation of these paints, the following may be -said: The prepared talc is passed through a fine-meshed sieve into a -porcelain dish. The carmine is rubbed fine in a porcelain mortar and -then triturated with water[25] in the same mortar until no more specks -of carmine are visible. Now add the dissolved carmine to the talc in -the porcelain dish, stir thoroughly with a horn or wooden spoon, and -gradually add sufficient rose water to form a dough-like mass. Then add -to this mass about 1¾ ozs. of gum-tragacanth mucilage, prepared -3 or 4 days before from 2¼ drachms of pulverized gum-tragacanth and -3½ ozs. of water, work the mass thoroughly through, and add the 5½ -drachms of best olive oil. The oil being also incorporated with the -mass, mix in the 1 oz. of _Extrait rose_ or alcohol, and again work the -mass thoroughly through, when the paint is ready to be brought upon -porcelain plates. - - [25] For fine preparations, rose water is used; for ordinary, - distilled water. - -The procedure is now as follows: By means of a spoon bring a quantity -of the paint, about the size of three hazelnuts upon the centre of a -porcelain plate, spread it out uniformly to the edge of the plate by -knocking the latter against the table, and in the same manner cover -6 or 8 plates. These are the test-plates. Tie a piece of paper over -the dish containing the rest of the paint and set it aside. Place the -plates coated with paint in a dry place to dry, but do not expose them -to sunlight, nor should soaps be kept in the room, as in both cases the -paint would become blue. After 12 to 18 hours the paint upon the plates -will be dry, and now comes the most difficult part of the manipulation. -With a small horn-knife or the sharp edge of a playing card scrape off -very carefully and uniformly a small quantity from the surface of the -paint, proceeding from the edges towards the centre of the plate. Then, -to see whether the paint adheres firmly to the plate, knock the edge of -the latter quite vigorously against the table. If it adheres firmly, -cover the entire plate with a piece of watered silk, catch the ends of -the latter beneath the plate with the left hand, and, with the palm of -the right, run quite hard over the silk. By this means the moiré of the -silk is imprinted upon the paint, giving it a nice appearance. Proceed -in the same manner with the six or eight test-plates, and if the paint -upon them bears the manipulation without dropping off, work up the -rest of the paint in the dish. If, however, the paint does not adhere -to the plates, it is proof of it containing not enough gum-tragacanth. -In this case add some of the mucilage to the paint in the dish, work -it thoroughly through, and proceed in the manner described. Packing, -labelling, etc., being subject to fashion, need not here be described, -but as the charm of novelty contributes much to the sale of an article, -the manufacturer should make it his business to invent new attractive -designs, without too much imitating others. - -_Red stick-paint_ (_Stick rouge_).--Prepared talc 1 lb., carmine -5½ drachms, olive oil 2¾ drachms, alcohol 8¼ drachms, spirit of -sal ammoniac a good teaspoonful, distilled water and gum-tragacanth -mucilage as much as required. - -The mode of preparation is the same as for solid paints, except that in -order to give the rouge more consistency, less water and gum-tragacanth -mucilage are to be used. - -For moulding the rouge into sticks, round tin moulds about 2½ inches -long and of the thickness of a finger are used. To facilitate the -removal of the rouge sticks, the inside of the moulds is rubbed with -a rag moistened with olive oil and wrapped around a thin stick of -wood. After removing the sticks from the mould, they are allowed to -dry superficially, and next wrapped first in tissue paper and then in -tinfoil, one end, however, being left free from paper and tinfoil. They -are finally labelled and packed in paste-board boxes. - -_White stick paint_ is prepared in the same manner as stick rouge, with -the exception that the carmine is omitted. - -_Rouge en feuilles._--Prepared talc 1¾ ozs., carmine 2¾ drachms, -olive oil 10 to 15 drops, spirits of sal ammoniac about 50 drops, pure -alcohol 5¼ ozs., distilled water or rose water 8 ozs., gum-tragacanth -mucilage 1¾ ozs. - -The carmine is first rubbed fine, then the olive oil, spirits of sal -ammoniac, and gum-tragacanth mucilage are successively thoroughly -triturated with the carmine, next the talc is added, then the water, -and finally the alcohol. Mix all intimately in a mortar with the -pestle. The whole forms a fluid which, by means of a fine brush, is -applied to a square piece of white card board, so that a circular -disk the size of a silver dollar lies in the centre of the paper. The -application of the rouge to the paper has to be repeated three or -four times, allowing one layer to dry before applying the next. When -the last layer is dry, the rouge is smoothed by laying a piece of -tissue paper upon it and running the broad side of a paper cutter over -the tissue paper. In packing, a piece of tissue is laid between the -separate pieces. - - -LIQUID PAINTS. Liquid paints are chiefly used by actors. - -_Liquid rouge._--Rose water 1½ quarts, carmine 1¾ ozs., _Extrait -rose_ No. 1, 1 lb. - -Heat the rose water, without allowing it to boil, in a glazed -earthenware vessel, add the carmine, previously rubbed fine, to the hot -rose water, and stir the fluid with a clean wooden spatula until the -carmine is completely divided. Then take the vessel from the fire and -add a tablespoonful of spirits of sal ammoniac. The latter imparts to -the rouge a brighter red, but not too much of it should be used, as -otherwise the rouge acquires a bluish shade, and besides the odor of -the spirits of sal ammoniac is not exactly agreeable. When the rouge -is cold add 1 lb. of _Extrait de rose_, mix the whole intimately, and -filter through white filtering paper into a clean glass bottle. The -rouge has to be protected from sunlight. - -_White liquid paint._--Fine zinc-white 3 lbs., rose water or orange -water 3½ quarts. - -In a clean enamelled vessel boil the zinc-white in 5 quarts of -distilled water, stirring constantly, until about 3 quarts of the -water are evaporated. Then take the vessel from the fire and allow the -fluid to stand quietly for ½ hour. Then carefully decant off the -supernatant water, pour the 3½ quarts of rose water or orange water -upon the zinc-white, stir thoroughly, and fill in bottles. - -_Fat paints._--Fat paints of various colors and shades are prepared -chiefly for the use of actors. The ground mass consists of _Blanc -fard_ or _Blanc français_, or simply of pulverized talc bolted through -silk. It is colored, according to the color desired, with carmine, -eosin, sienna, lamp black, or aniline colors, and incorporated in the -proportion of 1½ ground mass to 1 fatty mass, with the fatty mass -consisting of white wax 3 parts and olive oil 7 parts; _or_ paraffin -1½ parts and white vaseline 2 parts. The fatty mass is melted in the -water-bath, the powder stirred in, and after allowing the mixture to -cool somewhat, it is perfumed and poured into tin tubes previously -slightly warmed. - -Besides the above-mentioned _fat paints in sticks_, there are also _fat -paints in porcelain boxes_, which are of a somewhat softer consistency. -They are prepared in white, rose color, and yellowish. A few receipts -for them are as follows:-- - -_Crême de Lys._--Melt 3½ ozs. of spermaceti and 7 ozs. of white wax in -the water-bath, and after taking the mass from the fire mix it with -3⅕ lbs. of subnitrate of bismuth, previously rubbed fine, with -1⅘ lbs. of almond oil. Then allow to cool somewhat, next stir until -entirely cold, and perfume. - -_Crême de rose._--Spermaceti 3½ ozs., white wax 7 ozs., _Blanc -Français_ 3⅕ lbs., carmine 8¼ drachms, almond oil 1-4/5 lbs. - -Proceed as directed for _crême de lys_. - - - - -INDEX. - - - Abelmosk or musk-seed tincture, 230, 231 - - Absorption or enfleurage, process of, 60-65 - - Acacia oil, 87 - - Acetic amyl acetate or amyl acetate, 201 - ethyl or ethyl acetate, 201-204 - - Acid number, 81 - - African and French geranium oils, 112, 113 - - Alcohol and sulphuric acid test, Hager's, 78 - chloroform, and benzine, quantitative determination of adulterations - with, 72, 73 - or spirit of wine, detection of, in volatile oil, 68-71 - - Alcoholic perfumes, 219-255 - - Allspice, oil of, or pimento oil, 136 - - Almond bandoline, 305 - meal, 329 - milk, 327 - oil (bitter), 87-93 - adulterations of, 90-92 - artificial, 89, 90 - tincture, 234 - paste, honey, 329 - - Alpine herb oil, 301 - - Ambergris, 31, 186-188 - adulterations of, 188 - tincture, 229 - - Ambrein or ambrin, 187 - - America and England, use and preparation of nitrous ether in, 212-214 - - American curled mint oil, 132 - English, or Canadian castor, 185, 186 - musk-rat, musk of the, 181, 182 - oil of turpentine, 149 - peppermint oil, 132, 133 - - American soap industry, consumption of citronella oil in the, 108 - storax, 172 - - Amygdalin, 88 - - Amyl acetate or acetic amyl acetate, 201 - valerate or valerianic ether, 214-216 - - Anethol, 111 - - Angelica oil, 92, 93 - root tincture, 231 - - Animal kingdom, perfume-substances from the, 178-188 - - Anise-seed oil, 93, 94 - - Antiseptic gargle, 275 - - Apparatus for alcoholic extracts from flower pomades, 223-225 - for determining the percentage of volatile oil in a vegetable - substance, 40, 41 - for distilling lemon oil, 118-120 - for the absorption process, 62-64 - for the distillation of volatile oil, 41-46 - for the extraction of volatile oils, 48-57 - for the preparation of tinctures, 226, 227 - - Apple essence, 216 - ether, 216 - pomade, 289 - - Apricot essence, 216, 217 - ether, 216 - - Aqua mellis, 255 - - Arabian physicians, receipts for cosmetics in the writings of, 26 - - Arnica tooth-tincture, 276 - - Aromatic vinegar, 325 - English, 325, 326 - - Artificial musk, 182, 183 - perfume-materials, 189-218 - - Athens, luxurious use of ointments in, 22 - - Atomizers, 263 - - Atomizing, pine odor for, 265 - - Attar of roses or rose oil, 136-144 - - Austrian oil of turpentine, 148 - - Avicenna, receipts for cosmetics in the writings of, 26 - - - Balm oil, 96 - - Balm-oil tincture, 234 - - Balsam, Brazilian, 166 - Carthagena, 166 - fumigating, 265, 266 - Peru, 159-166 - pine oil, 149, 150 - Tolu, 166-168 - new variety of, 167, 168 - white Indian, 172 - Peru, 172 - Peruvian, 160, 161 - - Balsams, 155, 156 - and resins, 155-177 - - Balsamum Peruvianum, 159-166 - - Bandoline, almond, 305 - rose, 305 - - Bandolines, 304, 305 - - Barenthin's application of Hübl's iodine method to volatile oils, 80 - - Bartholow's depilatory, 323 - - Bartlett, W. W., menthol pungent as prepared by, 260 - Preston salt as prepared by, 260 - - Basil oil, 96 - tincture, 234 - - Bayberry oil, or oil of bay leaves, 96, 97 - - Bay leaves, oil of, or bayberry oil, 96, 97 - - Bay rum, 312-314 - formulæ for, 313, 314 - - Beard, Rogers's pomade for producing a, 294 - - Bear's grease, 285 - pomade, 289 - - Beauty-patch or mouche, 28 - - Beef-marrow pomade, 294 - - Benzine, detection of, in volatile oil, 71, 72 - - Benzoic ether or ethyl benzoate, 204, 205 - - Benzoin, 157-159 - amygdaloid, 157 - determination of cinnamic acid in, 158, 159 - flowers, 159 - in tears, 157 - lump, 157 - pomade, 290 - tincture, 229 - treatment of fat oils with, 300, 301 - varieties of, 158 - - Bergamot oil, 97, 98 - tincture, 234 - - Betula lenta, oil from, 152 - - Beyer frères, apparatus for alcoholic extracts from flower - pomades, 223-225 - for the preparation of tinctures, 226, 227 - - Birch oil, 152 - - Bismuth hair dye, 320 - nitrate of, 335, 336 - - Bisulphide of carbon, 48 - - Black hair dyes, 321 - tooth-powder, 280 - wax pomade, 299 - - Blanc fard or blanc français, 335 - - Blondel, Dr., memoir on the star anise tree, by, 95 - - Blonde wax pomade, 299 - - Boettger's depilatory, 323 - - Boroglycerin cream, 333 - - Bouchardat and Lafont, conversion of oil of turpentine into lemon - oil by, 189, 190 - - Bouquet vaseline pomade, 296 - - Bouquets, 219, 240-245 - - Brazilian balsam, 166 - - Brilliantine, 305-308 - formulas for, 307, 308 - - Brown hair dye, 321 - wax pomade, 299, 300 - - Bulgaria, rose oil industry in, 137, 138 - - Burdock-root hair oil, 302 - - Butyric acid, preparation of, 205-207 - ether, formation of, 207, 208 - or ethyl butyrate, 205-210 - - Cajeput oil, 98, 99 - - Camomile oil, 99, 100 - - Camphor tooth-powder, 280 - - Canadian, English, or American castor, 185, 186 - - Canango oil, 154 - tincture, 234 - - Caraway oil, 100, 101 - - Carbon, bisulphide of, 48 - - Carbonic acid, apparatus for developing a current of, 50-52 - - Carob or St. John's bread, 209 - - Carthagena balsam, 166 - - Carvene, 100 - - Carvol, 35, 100 - - Cassia oil, 103, 104 - tincture, 235 - value of, 104 - - Cassie, oil of, 87 - - Castor, 31 - adulterations of, 186 - - Castoreum or castor, 185, 186 - - Castor oil, determination of, in volatile oil, 67, 68 - pomade, 293 - or castoreum, 185, 186 - tincture, 229 - - Cedar oil, 101 - tincture, 235 - - Ceylon cinnamon oil, 102, 103 - - Chalk, 336 - - Chamomile oil, 99, 100 - - Chapped hands, preparations for, 333, 334 - - Chassis, 61 - - Cherry essence, 217 - ether, 216 - laurel oil, 101, 102 - tooth-paste, 278 - non-fermenting, 278 - - Chloroform, alcohol, and benzine, quantitative determination of - adulterations with, 72, 73 - detection of, in volatile oil, 71 - - Cineol, 123 - - Cinnamaldehyde, 103 - quantitative determination of, 104-106 - - Cinnamic acid, determination of, in benzoin, 158, 159 - - Cinnamon leaves, oil of, and cinnamon-root oil, 104 - oil tincture, 235 - oils, 102-106 - - Cinnamon root oil and oil of cinnamon leaves, 104 - - Citrene, 35, 121 - - Citronella oil, 107, 108 - tincture, 235 - - Citronellol, 107 - - Citron oil, 106, 107 - - Civet, 31, 184, 185 - tincture, 228 - - Clove-oil tincture, 235 - - Cloves, oil of, 108-110 - - Cold cream, 331 - creams and lip-salves, 331-335 - - Cologne water, 249-254 - durability of volatile oils used for, 250, 251 - preparation of, 249, 250 - receipts for, 252-254 - - Coloring substances for dentifrices and mouth-waters, 272 - for pomades, 286 - - Compound odors, 240-245 - - Copper hair dye, 322 - nitroprusside of, test, 75-78 - salts for dyeing the hair, 315, 316 - - Cortex thymiamatis, 168 - - Cosmetics, 324-342 - and perfumeries in the Middle Ages, 26, 27 - and perfumes in Italy, 26, 27 - receipts for, in the writings of Arabian physicians, 26 - - Cream, boroglycerin, 333 - cold, 331 - glycerin, 332 - of roses, 333 - Récamier, 333 - vaseline cold, 331 - - Crême de concombre, 332 - de lys, 342 - de rose, 342 - - Cumarin, 190-193 - manufacture of, 192, 193 - tincture, 232 - - Curled mint oil, 132 - - Currant essence, 217 - - Cymene, 121 - - - Dandruff cures, 312 - lotion, 312 - - Densdorf pomade, 290 - - Dentifrice, singular, used by the Roman ladies, 26 - - Dentifrices and mouth-waters, coloring substances for, 272 - mouth-waters, etc., 272-283 - - Depilatories, 322, 323 - use of in ancient Rome, 25, 26 - - Dioscorides's directions for making animal fats suitable for the - reception of perfumes, 24 - for preparing rose ointment, 23, 24 - "Medica materia," 23 - - Distillation of expressed oil, 39 - of lemon oil, 118 - of rose oil, 137, 138 - of volatile oils, 39-48 - ancient mode of, 24 - - Distilling apparatus for lemon oil, 118-120 - - Double hair dyes, 321, 322 - - Dragendorff's test, 68, 69 - - Dry perfumes, 256-261 - - Dutch tonka bean, 191, 192 - - Dwarf pine oil, 149 - - - East Indian geranium oil, 112 - - Eau Athénienne, 308 - - Eau d'Afrique, 322 - de Botot (improved), 275 - de Cologne, 249-254 - durability of volatile oils for, 250, 251 - hair tonic, 309 - preparation of, 249, 250 - receipts for, 252-254 - solid perfume, 260 - de lavande, 255 - double, 255 - de Lisbonne, 255 - de quinine, 309, 310 - (imitation), 310 - de vie de lavande double ambrée, 255 - dentifrice Botot, 274 - Orientale, 274, 275 - lustral (hair restorative), 310 - - Écuelle process for obtaining lemon oil, 117, 118 - - Egg oil, virtues of, 314 - - Egypt, ancient, paints used in, 18, 19 - - Egyptians, use of perfume-substances by the, for embalming the dead, 18 - - Elæoptene, 33 - - Emperor pomade, 292 - - Enfleurage or absorption, process of, 60-65 - - England and America, use and preparation of nitrous ether in, 212-214 - use of perfumery in, 30 - - English aromatic vinegar, 325, 326 - Canadian, or American castor, 185, 186 - peppermint oil, 132, 133 - tonka bean, 192 - - Esprit de menthe, 276 - - Ess-bouquet sachet powder, 259 - solid perfume, 260 - - Essence à l'écuelle, or au zeste, 117 - apple, 216 - apricot, 216, 217 - cherry, 217 - currant, 217 - de jasmin, 114 - de lavande Montblanc, 115 - de mirbane, 199 - grape, 217 - lemon, 217 - melon, 217 - of Portugal, 125 - of the odor of Linden blossoms, 238 - orange, 217 - peach, 217 - pear, 217 - pine-apple, 217 - plum, 217 - raspberry, 218 - strawberry, 218 - - Essences and vinegars, fumigating, 264-266 - pastilles, powders, etc., for fumigating, 262-271 - - Essential or volatile oils, occurrence of, in plants, 31 - - Ester or ether number, 82 - - Ether, apple, 216 - apricot, 216 - cherry, 216 - or ester number, 82 - pear, 216 - pine-apple, 216 - strawberry, 216 - - Ethers, fruit, 200-218 - - Ethyl acetate, or acetic ethyl, 201-204 - benzoate, or benzoic ether, 204, 205 - butyrate, or butyric ether, 205-210 - formate, or formic ethyl ether, 210, 211 - nitrite, or nitrous ether, 211-214 - - Eucalyptene, 111 - - Eucalyptol, 111 - - Eucalyptus oil, 110, 111 - tincture, 235 - - Eugenol, 103, 109 - - Expression of volatile oils, 36-39 - - Extract, concentrated flower, 245 - patchouli, 233 - spinach, 239 - - Extraction of volatile oils, 48-58 - or maceration of flowers, 286, 287 - - Extracts, alcoholic, from flower pomades, apparatus for, 223-225 - and tinctures, 225-237 - - Extrait acacia, 237 - bouquet Eugenie, 241 - Prince Albert, 243 - Victoria, 242, 248 - cassie, 237 - chypre, 243, 244, 247 - de violette de Parme, 239, 240 - edelweiss, 240 - ess-bouquet, 240, 241, 247 - excelsior, 241 - fleurs de Mai, 238 - Frangipani, 241, 249 - héliotrope, 237 - ixora, 239, 248, 249 - jacinthe, 237, 238 - jasmin, 238 - jockey club, 241, 242 - jonquille, 238 - kiss-me-quick, 243 - lily of the valley, 238 - magnolia, 238 - maréchal, 244 - May flowers, 238 - millefleurs, 242 - mogadore, 243 - mousseline, 244 - muguet, 238, 248 - musk, 243 - new-mown hay, 243, 247 - - Extract opopanax, 242 - orange, 239 - patchouli, 242 - réséda, 240, 246 - rose, 246 - v. d. centifolie, 239 - spring-flower, 241, 248 - tubereuse, 240 - violette, 239, 246 - white rose, 239 - ylang-ylang, 240, 246, 247 - - Extraits aux fleurs, 219, 237-240 - d'odeurs, 219 - triple concentrés, 244, 245 - - - Face, painting the, practised by the Hebrew women, 19 - - Family pomade, 290, 291 - vaseline pomade, 296 - - Farine d'amandes amères, 329 - de noisette, 328 - - Fat mixtures for hair pomades, 288, 289 - paints, 341, 342 - - Fats, animal, preparation of, for the reception of perfumes, 24 - for pomades and hair oils, 284 - protection of, against rancidity, 285 - purification of, 285, 286 - - Federer's, C. F., test for peppermint oil, 135 - - Fennel oil, 111, 112 - - Filter, illustrated and described, 38, 39 - - Filtration of expressed oils, 37-39 - - Flake-white, 336 - - Florentine flasks, 46, 47 - - Florida water, 308, 309 - - Flower brilliantine, 306, 307 - extract, concentrated, 245 - fumigating essence, héliotrope, 264 - hair oil, 301 - pomades, 286, 287 - extraction of, 221-225 - - Flowers for the production of volatile oils, localities best suited - for the cultivation of, 32, 33 - maceration or extraction of, 286, 287 - - Formic ethyl ether, or ethyl formate, 210, 211 - - France, cultivation of the bitter orange in, 126 - extravagant use of rouge in, 28, 29 - golden age for toilet articles in, 27-29 - introduction of the arts of the toilet into, 27 - old process of maceration in, 59 - - Frangipani sachet powder, 258 - - Frankincense, in ancient times, 19-21 - or olibanum, 176, 177 - - French and African geranium oils, 112, 113 - oil of turpentine, 148 - patchouli oil, 131 - perfumers, ancient, privileges of, 29, 30 - pomades (flower pomades), - fine, 286, 287 - - Fruit ethers, 200-218 - - Fuchsine, detection of alcohol by, 69 - - Fumigating agents, dry, objections to, 263, 264 - balsam, 265, 266 - essences and vinegars, 264-266 - pastilles, powders, etc., 262-271 - lacquer, 270, 271 - mode of, 262, 263 - object of, 262 - paper, 268 - pastilles, 268-270 - ordinary black, 269 - red, 269 - powder, ordinary, 266, 267 - violet, 267 - powders, 266-268 - prejudice against, 262 - vinegar, 266 - water, 266 - - Funnel, separatory, 47 - - - Geraniol, 112 - - Geranium oil, East Indian, 112 - - Geranium oil, palmarosa oil, Turkish geranium oil, 112 - tincture, 235 - oils, French and African, 112, 113 - - German curled-mint oil, 132 - - German oil of turpentine, 148 - peppermint oil, 132, 133 - - Germany, manufacture of rose oil in, from indigenous roses, 136 - - Glycerin cream, 332 - for dentifrices, 273, 274 - gelée, 332 - hair tonic, 310 - jelly, 332, 333 - perfumed with fruit odor, 328 - with rose odor, 328 - - Grape essence, 217 - - Greeks, practice of anointing the body by the, 21 - - Green camomile oil, 99 - - Guaiacum reaction, Hager's, 78-80 - - Gummi myrrha, 172-176 - resina myrrha, 172-176 - - Gum-resins, 155, 156 - - Guy de Chanlios, receipts for cosmetics in the works of, 26 - - - Hager's alcohol and sulphuric acid test, 78 - - Hager's guaiacum reaction, 78-80 - tannin test, 69-71 - - Hair, copper salts for dyeing the, 315, 316 - dye, bismuth, 320 - black, 321 - brown, 321 - copper, 322 - potassium permanganate, 320 - requirements of a good, 314 - tannin, 321, 322 - Turkish, 316 - walnut, 320 - dyes, 314-322 - double, 321, 322 - silver, 321 - single, 319, 320 - use of, in ancient Rome, 25 - green walnut shells for dyeing the, 318 - henna for dyeing the, 317, 318 - iron salts for dyeing the, 316 - lead salts for dyeing the, 315 - nitrate of silver for dyeing the, 315 - oil, alpine herb, 301 - burdock root, 302 - - Hair oil, cheap, 303, 304 - fine, 302, 303 - flower, 301 - jasmine, 303 - macassar, 302 - mignonette, 302 - neroli, 302 - Peru, 302 - Peruvian bark, 301, 302 - philocome, 303 - Portugal, 303 - rose, 304 - sultana, 304 - tonka, 304 - vanilla, 303 - vaseline, 303 - Victoria, 304 - violet, 304 - ylang-ylang, 303 - oils, 300-304 - and pomades, fats for, 284 - peroxide of hydrogen for bleaching the, 318 - pomade, fine, 291 - for promoting the growth of the, 291 - pomades, 285-300 - according to the German method, 288-295 - coloring substances for, 286 - fine French, 286, 287 - foundations for, 288, 289 - hair oils, and hair tonics, hair dyes and depilatories, 284-323 - potassium permanganate for dyeing the, 316 - pyrogallic acid for dyeing the, 316 - stain, pyrogallic, 320 - tonics, 308-314 - - Hands, chapped, preparations for, 333, 334 - wash for the, 334 - - Hebrews, ancient, perfume-substances known to the, 19 - - Heliotrope pomade, 291, 292 - sachet powder, 257 - - Heliotropin or piperonal, 193-195 - tincture, 232 - - Henna-flower, use of the, for perfuming, 19 - - Henna for dyeing the hair, 317, 318 - - Herb pomade, 292 - - Herodotus on the mode of gaining olibanum, 19, 20 - - Heyl's distilling apparatus, 57, 58 - extracting apparatus, 54-57 - - Historical notice of perfumery, 17-30 - - Hitchin and Mitchan lavender oil, 115 - - Honey almond paste, 329 - water, 310 - - Hoppe's nitroprusside of copper test, 75-78 - - Horse fat, 284, 285 - - Hübl's iodine method, 80, 81 - - Hufeland's, Dr., tooth-powder, 280 - tooth-soap, 282, 283 - - Huile antique à la rose, 301 - au jasmin, 301 - - Huiles antiques, 301 - - Hydrogen, peroxide of, for bleaching the hair, 318 - - - Ice pomade, 290 - - Indian balsam, white, 172 - - Infusion or maceration, process of, 58-60 - - Iodine method, Hübl's, 80, 81 - test with, 74, 75 - - Iron salts for dyeing the hair, 316 - - Italy, perfumes and cosmetics in, 26, 27 - - - Japanese peppermint oil, 132, 133 - - Jasmin, essence de, 114 - - Jasmine hair oil, 303 - oil or oil of jessamine, 113, 114 - pomade, 292 - - Jessamine, oil of, or jasmine oil, 113, 114 - - Jockey club sachet, 257 - - Juniper-berry tincture, 233 - - Juniper odor, 265 - oil, 114 - - - Kabardin musk, 179, 180 - - Kahol, 317 - - Karsi, 319 - - Kienoel, 149 - - Kohol, 319 - - Kopher, 19 - - Kremel's saponification test, 81, 82 - - Krinochrom, 322 - - Krummholz oil, 149 - - Kypros, 19 - - - Lacquer, fumigating, 270, 271 - - Lait, d'amandes amères, 327 - - Lait de lys, 328 - de rose, 326, 327 - virginal, 326 - - Lanolin pomade, 292, 293 - - Latschenoel, 149 - - Lavande Montblanc, essence de, 115 - - Lavender odor solid perfume, 260 - oil, 115, 116 - adulterations of, 116 - tincture, 235 - - Lead salts for dyeing the hair, 315 - white, 336 - - Leather, perfumed, 30 - - Lebonah, 19-21 - - Lederin, 286 - - Lemon essence, 217 - grass-oil tincture, 235 - oil, 116-121 - conversion of oil of turpentine into, 189, 190 - tincture, 235 - - Licari oil, linaloë oil, 122 - tincture, 235 - - Lilac oil, 121 - - Lily milk, 328 - of the valley sachet powder, 258 - vaseline pomade, 296 - - Limes, oil of, 121, 122 - - Linaloë oil, licari oil, 122 - - Lip-salve, 334, 335 - - Lip-salves and cold creams, 331-335 - - Liquid ambar, 172 - paints, 340-342 - rouge, 340, 341 - storax, 168-171 - - Locock's lotion for the hair, 311 - - Lotion, dandruff, 312 - Locock's, for the hair, 311 - shampoo, 311 - - Lubah, 19-21 - - Lunar caustic for dyeing the hair, 315 - - - Macassar hair oil, 302 - pomade, 292 - - Mace oil, 124 - - Maceration or extraction of flowers, 286, 287 - or infusion, process of, 58-60 - - Magnesia, 336 - - Mandarin oil, 125, 126 - - Marinello's work on "Cosmetics for Ladies," 27 - - Marjoram oils, 122, 123 - - Maumené's test, 82, 83 - - Meal, almond, 329 - nut, 328 - - Meals and pastes, perfumed, 328-331 - - Melanogène, 322 - - Melon essence, 217 - - Menthol, 133 - pungent, 260 - - Messina, yield of lemon oil in, 120 - - Methyl salicylate, 151 - artificial production of, 152, 153 - - Mierzinski's formulæ for bay rum, 313, 314 - - Mignonette hair oil, 302 - oil, 123 - pomade, 293 - vaseline pomade, 296 - - Milk, almond, 327 - lily, 328 - rose, 326, 327 - virginal, 326 - - Millefleurs fumigating pastilles, 270 - - Mint, curled, oil of, 132 - - Mirbane, oil of, 199 - - Mitchan and Hitchin lavender oil, 115 - - Monfalcone's, D., distilling apparatus for lemon oil, 118-120 - - Moschus ex vesicis, 180 - - Moses, the holy oil prescribed by, 21 - - Mouche or beauty patch, 28 - - Mouth- and tooth-waters, 274-277 - waters and dentifrices, coloring substances for, 272 - dentifrices, etc., 272-283 - - Musk, 31, 178-184 - adulterations of, 183, 184 - artificial, 182, 183 - fumigating pastilles, 269, 270 - - Musk-rat, American, musk of the, 181, 182 - root or sumbul-root tincture, 231 - sachet powder, 259 - sac, how to open a, 180 - sacs, illustrated and described, 178, 179 - seed or abelmosk tincture, 230, 231 - substitutes for, 181, 182 - tincture, 228 - - Myristicin, 124 - - Myron, 21 - - Myrrh, 172-176 - adulterations of, 175, 176 - oil, 123, 124 - tincture, 235 - tincture, 230 - tooth-tincture, 276 - - Myrrha electa, 173 - in sortis, 173 - vulgaris, 173 - - Myrrhin, 174 - - Myrrhol, 174 - - Myrtol, 123, 124 - - - Nail-powder, 334 - - Neroli hair oil, 302 - - Neroli oil, adulterations of, 127, 128 - or orange-flower oil, 126-129 - tincture, 235 - petale, 127 - pomade, 293 - vaseline pomade, 296 - - New-mown hay fumigating powder, 267, 268 - sachet powder, 259 - - Nitrate of bismuth, 335, 336 - of silver for dyeing the hair, 315 - - Nitrobenzol, 198-200 - adulterations of, 199 - - Nitroprusside of copper test, 75-78 - - Nitrous ether, or ethyl nitrite, 211-214 - - Nut meal, 328 - - Nutmeg oils, 124, 125 - - - Odontine, 275 - or tooth-paste, 277, 278 - paste, 278 - - Odor and taste, testing the, of volatile oils, 66, 67 - - Odors, compound, 240-245 - - Oil, castor, determination of, in volatile oil, 67, 68 - fat, adulteration with, of volatile oil, 67, 68 - the holy, prescribed by Moses, 21 - volatile, apparatus for determining the percentage of, in a - vegetable substance, 40, 41 - for the distillation of, 41-46 - Planchon's procedure for the recognition of a, 83-86 - separation of the, and water, 46, 47 - testing the odor of, 66 - the taste of, 67 - - Oils, fat, treatment of, with benzoin, 300, 301 - oxygenated, behavior of, towards nitroprusside of copper, 76-78 - perfuming of, 61, 62 - volatile, 33-65 - ancient mode of distilling, 24 - apparatus for the extraction of, 48-57 - characteristics of, 33, 34 - concentrated, 35 - detection of adulterations of, with an oil of lower quality, 74-83 - distillation of, 39-48 - division of, with reference to the guaiacum reaction, 79, 80 - expression of, 36-39 - extraction of, 48-58 - extra strong, 35 - for Cologne water, durability of, 250, 251 - localities best suited for the cultivation of flowers for the - production of, 32, 33 - modes of obtaining, 36-65 - or essential, occurrence of, in plants, 31 - patented, 35 - principal divisions of, 34 - solubility of, 33 - storage of, 65 - testing of, 66-86 - the, used in perfumery, 87-154 - - Ointment makers, ancient, condition of, 24, 25 - rose, according to Dioscorides, 23, 24 - - Ointments, directions for preparing, in ancient works, 23, 24 - foreign, edict against, in Rome, 22 - for the different parts of the body used by the Athenians, 22 - - Oleum abietes, 149 - canadensis, 149, 150 - amygdalæ amaræ, 87-93 - anisi, 93, 94 - anthemidis, 99, 100 - anthos, 144, 145 - cajeputi, 98, 99 - carui, 100, 101 - caryophylli, 108-110 - cassiæ, 103, 104 - cedri, 101 - cinnamoni ceylonici, 102, 103 - citri, 106, 107 - eucalypti, 110, 111 - australe, 110 - florum aurantii, 126-129 - fœniculi, 111, 112 - gaultheriæ, 151-153 - geranii, 112, 113 - iridis, 129, 130 - iva ranchusa, 150, 151 - juniperi, 114 - laurocerasi, 101, 102 - lavandulæ, 115, 116 - ligni rhodii, 145 - sandali, 145 - sassafras, 145-147 - limettæ, 121, 122 - limonis, 116-121 - macidis, 124 - menthæ crispæ, 132 - piperitæ, 132-135 - pulegii, 135, 136 - myrthæ, 123, 134 - naphæ, 126-129 - neroli, 126-129 - nucistæ æthereum, 124 - petit grain, 129 - pimenta, 136 - pini, 149 - pumilionis, 149 - résédæ, 123 - rosemarini, 144, 145 - templinum, 149 - unonæ, 153, 154 - - Olibanum in ancient times, 19-21 - or frankincense, 176, 177 - tincture, 230 - - Opiat liquide pour les dents, 280, 281 - - Opopanax, 176 - oil, 125 - tincture, 235 - tincture, 230 - - Orange, bitter, localities for the cultivation of the, 126 - essence, 217 - flower oil, or neroli oil, 126-129 - water, 128 - fumigating powder, 267 - peel oil, 125 - sachet powder, 259 - - Oriental flower fumigating essence, 265 - pomade, 293 - - Orris-root oil, 129, 130 - liquid, 257 - tincture, 235 - tincture, 231 - - Orris stearoptene, 129 - - - Paint, fine red, 337 - ordinary red, 336, 337 - red stick, 339 - white, 337 - liquid, 341 - stick, 340 - - Paints, 335-342 - fat, 341, 342 - liquid, 340-342 - preparation of, 337-339 - pulverulent, 335, 336 - solid, 336-340 - use of, by the Roman ladies, 25 - - Palermo, yield of lemon oil in, 120 - - Palmarosa oil, geranium oil, Turkish geranium oil, 112 - - Paper, fumigating, 268 - - Paraffine, solid perfumes with, 259, 260 - - Paraguay, manufacture of petit-grain oil in, 129 - - Paris, annual sale of perfumery in, 29, 30 - - Paste, honey almond, 329 - - Pastes and meals, perfumed, 328-331 - and powders for the teeth, 277-283 - - Pastilles, fumigating, 268-270 - powders, essences, etc., for fumigating, 262-271 - - Patchouli-camphor, 131 - - Patchouli extract, 233 - leaves, 130, 131 - oil, 130-132 - tincture, 235 - sachet powder, 258 - - Pate d'amandes au miel, 329 - - Peach essence, 217 - kernels, use of, in the fabrication of bitter-almond oil, 88 - - Pear essence, 217 - ether, 216 - - Penang patchouli oil, 131 - - Peppermint oil, adulterants of, 134, 135 - oils, 132-136 - American, English, and German, mode of distinguishing, 133, 134 - - Pepper, perfume-substance from, 194 - - Perfumed meals and pastes, 328-331 - - Perfume-materials, artificial, 189-218 - for the manufacture of perfumery, 31-65 - substances, consumption of, by the ancient Romans, 24 - consumption of, by the early nations of the Orient, 17 - from the animal kingdom, 178-188 - - Perfumeries and cosmetics in the Middle Ages, 26, 27 - - Perfumer, the actual flower garden of the, 32 - what the art of the, consists in, 219 - - Perfumers, French, ancient privileges of, 29, 30 - - Perfumery, annual sale of, in Paris, 29, 30 - historical notice of, 17-30 - perfume-substances for themanufacture of, 31-65 - the volatile oils used in, 87-154 - use of, in England, 30 - - Perfumes, alcoholic, 219-255 - and cosmetics in Italy, 26, 27 - dry, 256-261 - preparation of animal fats for the reception of, 24 - solid, with paraffine, 259, 260 - - Peroxide of hydrogen for bleaching the hair, 318 - - Peru balsam, 159-166 - adulterants of, 162 - oil, 161 - statistics of, 162 - tests for, 162-166 - tincture, 229 - white, 172 - hair oil, 302 - - Peruvian balsam, white, 160, 161 - bark hair oil, 301, 302 - - Petit-grain oil, 129 - tincture, 236 - - Petroleum-ether, 48 - as testing agent for Peru balsam, 163 - - Philocome hair oil, 303 - - Pimento oil, or oil of allspice, 136 - - Pineapple essence, 217 - ether, 216 - - Pine-leaf oil, 149 - tincture, 236 - - Pine odor for atomizing, 265 - oil, 149 - - Piperate, potassium, 194 - - Piperine, 194 - - Piperonal, how obtained, 194, 195 - or heliotropin, 193-195 - - Piver's apparatus for maceration, 59, 60 - for the absorption process, 63, 64 - - Planchon's procedure for the recognition of a volatile oil, 83-86 - - Plants, families of, richest in volatile oils, 32 - occurrence of volatile oils in, 31 - - Pliny's account of olibanum, 20, 21 - "Historia naturalis," 23 - - Plum essence, 217 - - Plutarch on the extravagant use of ointments in Rome, 22, 23 - - Paraffin ice pomade, 293 - - Poley oil, 135, 136 - - Pomade, apple, 289 - bear's grease, 289 - beef-marrow, 294 - benzoin, 290 - black wax, 299 - blonde wax, 299 - bouquet vaseline, 296 - brown wax, 299, 300 - castor oil, 293 - cheap, 293 - wax, 290 - Densdorf, 290 - emperor, 202 - extra fine vaseline, 298 - family, 290, 291 - vaseline, 296 - fine, 291, 294 - vaseline (yellow), 297 - for promoting the growth of the hair, 291 - héliotrope, 291, 292 - herb, 292 - ice, 290 - jasmine, 292 - lanolin, 292, 293 - lily of the valley vaseline, 296 - macassar, 292 - mignonette, 293 - vaseline, 296 - neroli, 293 - vaseline, 296 - oriental, 293 - paraffin ice, 293 - Portugal, 292 - vaseline, 296 - princess, 293, 294 - quinine, 289, 290 - (imitation), 290 - resin, 300 - Rogers's, for producing a beard, 294 - rose, 294 - wax, 299 - salicylic, 294 - stick, manufacture of, 298, 299 - strawberry, 291 - tonka, 294, 295 - vanilla, 295 - vaseline (red), 297 - (white), 297 - foundations for, 296 - Victoria, 294 - vaseline, 297, 298 - violet, 295 - Virginia vaseline, 297 - walnut, 295 - - Pomades, 285-300 - according to the German method, 288-295 - and hair oils, fats for, 284 - coloring substances for, 286 - designation of the qualities of, 219, 220 - foundations for, 288, 289 - resin, 298 - stick, 298-300 - foundations for, 298 - vaseline, 295-298 - wax, 298 - - Pommade à l'acacia, 287 - à la fleur d'orange, 287 - à la rose, 287 - à l'héliotrope, 287 - - Portugal hair oil, 303 - oil, 125 - tincture, 236 - pomade, 292 - vaseline pomade, 296 - - Potassium permanganate for dyeing the hair, 316 - hair dye, 320 - piperate, 194 - - Poudre d'Algérine, 281, 282 - de corail, 280 - de riz à la rose, 329, 330 - de riz à la violette, 330 - de riz bouquet, 331 - de riz héliotrope, 330 - de riz ixora, 331 - de riz muguet, 330, 331 - de riz orange, 330 - dentifrice, 279 - - Powder for coloring intensely red, 336 - new-mown hay fumigating, 267, 268 - orange fumigating, 267 - ordinary fumigating, 266, 267 - rose fumigating, 267 - - Powders, 335, 336 - and pastes for the teeth, 277-283 - fumigating, 266-268 - mixtures for, 336 - pastilles, and essences, etc., for fumigating, 262-271 - - Preston salt, 260 - - Princess pomade, 293, 294 - - Pyrogallic acid for dyeing the hair, 316 - hair stain, 320 - - - Quinine pomade, 289, 290 - (imitation), 290 - tooth-water, 276 - - - Raspberry essence, 218 - - Rastikopetra, 316 - - Récamier cream, 333 - - Red paint, fine, 337 - ordinary, 336, 337 - stick paint, 339 - thyme oil, 147 - - Reggio, mode of manufacturing bergamot oil in, 118 - - Réséda sachet powder, 258, 259 - - Resin pomade, 300 - pomades, 298 - - Resins and balsams, 155-177 - definition of, 155 - diffusion of, in the vegetable kingdom, 156 - elementary constituents of, 155 - hard, 155 - soft, 155, 156 - - Rhazes, receipts for cosmetics in the writings of, 26 - - Rhodium oil, or rosewood oil, 145 - - Rhusma, 322, 323 - - Righini's method for testing bergamot oil, 98 - - Rogers's pomade for producing a beard, 294 - - Romans, ancient, consumption of perfume-substances by the, 24 - - Rome, introduction of ointments in, 22 - Plutarch on the extravagant use of ointments in, 22, 23 - - Rosa alba, 137 - damascena, 137 - - Rose bandoline, 305 - flower fumigating essence, 264 - fumigating pastilles, 270 - powder, 267 - hair oil, 304 - milk, 326, 327 - oil, adulterants of, 142 - adulteration of, in Bulgaria 140 - determination of spermaceti in, 143, 144 - insulation and determination of the stearoptene in, 139, 140 - judging the genuineness of, 139 - liquid, 139 - or attar of roses, 136-144 - principal localities of production of, 136 - test for, 143 - used in Bulgaria, 141 - tincture, 236, 237 - ointment, according to Dioscorides, 23, 24 - pomade, 294 - wax pomade, 299 - - Rosemary oil, 144, 145 - - Roses, cream of, 333 - - Rosewood oil, or rhodium oil, 145 - - Rouge, 336, 337 - en feuilles, 340 - extravagant use of, in France, 28, 29 - liquid, 340, 341 - moulding of, into sticks, 339 - stick, 339 - - Russian or Siberian castor, 185, 186 - musk, 179, 180 - - - Sachet à la rose, 257 - à la violette, 257 - aux millefleurs, 258 - jockey club, 257 - powder, ess-bouquet, 259 - Frangipani, 258 - héliotrope, 257 - lily of the valley, 258 - musk, 259 - new-mown hay, 259 - orange, 259 - patchouli, 258 - réséda, 258, 259 - Victoria, 258 - ylang-ylang, 257 - powders, 256-259 - - Safrene, 146 - - Safrol, 146, 147 - - St. John's bread or carob, 209 - - Salicylic pomade, 294 - - Salts, smelling, 260, 261 - - Salve, Cyprian, 19 - - Sandal-wood oil, 145 - tincture, 236 - - Saudarac, 177 - - Sandaracin, 177 - - Saponaceous tooth-wash, 283 - - Saponification number, 81 - test, Kremel's, 81, 82 - - Sassafras oil, 145-147 - - Sartorius ylang-ylang oil, 154 - - Schimmel & Co.'s directions for bay rum, 313 - directions for the quantitative determination of - cinnamaldehyde, 104-106 - improved still, 44-46 - - Separator-funnel, 47 - - Shampoo liquid, 311, 312 - lotion, 311 - - Siberian or Russian castor, 185, 186 - musk, 179, 180 - - Silver, nitrate of, for dyeing the hair, 315 - - Single hair dyes, 319, 320 - - Siphon still, 41, 42 - - Skin cosmetics, 324-328 - - Smelling salts, 260, 261 - - Soap for dentifrices, 273 - - Solid paints, 336-340 - - Solubility of volatile oils, 33 - - Sozodont, 275 - - Spanish marjoram oil, 122, 123 - - Spermaceti, determination of, in rose oil, 143, 144 - - Spike oil, 115 - - Spinach extract, 239 - - Spirit of wine, or alcohol, detection of, in volatile oil, 68-71 - - Sponge-process for obtaining lemon oil, 116, 117 - - Stahl's tooth-tincture, 276 - - Star anise oil, 94, 95 - - Stearoptene, 33 - of rose oil, 138 - - Stick paint, white, 340 - pomade, manufacture of, 298, 299 - pomader, 298-300 - foundations for, 298 - rouge, 339 - - Still, for direct steam, 43, 44 - improved, 44-46 - - Still, ordinary, conversion of, into use with steam, 42, 43 - siphon, 41, 42 - - Stohman's test for oil of cloves, 109 - - Storax, 168-172 - American, 172 - in grains, 171 - liquid, 168-171 - adulterations of, 170, 171 - ordinary, 171, 172 - tincture, 230 - - Strawberry essence, 218 - ether, 216 - pomade, 291 - - Styracin, 170 - - Styrax calamitus, 171, 172 - vulgaris, 171, 172 - - Styrol, 169, 170 - - Sultana hair oil, 304 - - Sumbul root, or musk-root tincture, 231 - - - Tannin hair dye, 321, 322 - - Taste and odor, testing the, of volatile oils, 66, 67 - - Tea hair tonic, 310, 311 - - Teinture Chinoise (Kohol), 319 - Orientale (Karsi), 319 - - Templin oil, 149 - - Terpenes, 35, 36 - adulterations of volatile oil with, 73 - - Terpilene, 189, 190 - - Testing volatile oils, 66-86 - - Theophrastus's work "On Perfumes," 23 - - Thibet or Oriental musk, 178, 179 - - Thymene, 147 - - Thyme oil, 147, 148 - from the field thyme, 147, 148 - - Thymol, 147, 273 - tooth-paste, 278 - tooth-powder, 279 - tooth-water, 274 - - Tincture, ambergris, 229 - angelica-root, 231 - balm-oil, 234 - basil-oil, 234 - benzoin, 229 - bergamot-oil, 234 - bitter almond-oil, 234 - canango-oil, 234 - cassia-oil, 235 - castor, 229 - cedar-oil, 235 - cinnamon-oil, 235 - citronella-oil, 235 - civet, 228 - clove-oil, 235 - cumarin, 232 - eucalyptus-oil, 235 - geranium-oil, 235 - heliotropin, 232 - juniper-berry, 233 - lavender-oil, 235 - lemon-grass oil, 235 - lemon-oil, 235 - licari-oil, 235 - musk, 228 - root or sumbul-root, 231 - seed or abelmosk, 230, 231 - myrrh, 230 - oil, 235 - neroli-oil, 235 - olibanum, 230 - opopanax, 230 - oil, 235 - orris-root, 231 - oil, 235 - patchouli-oil, 235 - Peru-balsam, 229 - petit-grain-oil, 236 - pine-leaf-oil, 236 - Portugal-oil, 236 - rose-oil, 236, 237 - sandal-wood-oil, 236 - storax, 230 - tolu-balsam, 229, 230 - tonka-bean, 231, 232 - vanilla, 232 - vanillin, 232 - verbena-oil, 236 - vitivert, 233 - oil, 236 - wintergreen-oil, 236 - ylang-ylang-oil, 236 - - Tinctures and extracts, 225-237 - apparatus for the preparation of, 226, 227 - - Toilet articles, golden age for, in France, 27-29 - arts of the, in ancient times, 18 - introduction of the arts of the, into France, 27 - vinegar, 326 - - Tolu balsam, 166-168 - new variety of, 167, 168 - - Tolu balsam, tincture, 229, 230 - - Toluene, 166, 167 - - Tonka beans, 191, 192 - bean tincture, 231, 232 - hair oil, 304 - pomade, 294, 295 - - Tonkin musk, 178, 179 - characteristics of, 180, 181 - - Tooth-and mouth-waters, 274-277 - paste or odontine, 277, 278 - pastes and tooth-powders, 277-283 - powder, Dr. Hufeland's, 280 - powders and tooth-pastes, 277-283 - preparation of, 279 - soap, 283 - Dr. Hufeland's, 282, 283 - tincture, Dr. Stahl's, 276 - tinctures, use of, 276, 277 - - Trotula, works of, 26 - - Turkish geranium oil, palmarosa oil, geranium oil, 112 - hair dye, 316 - - Turpentine, oil of, 148-150 - conversion of, into lemon oil, 189, 190 - - - United States, adaptation of some districts of, for the cultivation - of plants, 33 - - - Valerianic ether, or amyl valerate, 214-216 - ethyl ether, 216 - - Vanilla, 195, 196 - hair oil, 303 - pomade, 295 - tincture, 232 - - Vanillin, 195-198 - adulteration of, 198 - preparation of, 196, 197 - tincture, 232 - - Vaseline cold cream, 331 - hair oil, 303 - pomade, extra fine, 298 - fine (yellow), 297 - (red), 297 - (white), 297 - pomades, 295-298 - foundations for, 296 - - Venetian oil of turpentine, 148 - - Verbena oil, 150 - tincture, 236 - - Vetiver oil, or vitivert oil, 150, 151 - - Victoria hair oil, 304 - pomade, 294 - sachet powder, 258 - vaseline pomade, 297, 298 - - Vinaigre de Bully, 324 - de toilette, 325 - de toilette à l'héliotrope, 325 - de toilette à la rose, 324 - de toilette à la violette, 324 - de toilette orange, 325 - - Vinegar, aromatic, 325, 326 - fumigating, 266 - toilet, 326 - - Vinegars and essences, fumigating, 264-266 - - Violet-flower fumigating essence, 265 - - Violet fumigating pastilles, 270 - powder, 267 - hair oil, 304 - mouth-water, 275 - oil of, 150 - pomade, 295 - tooth-powder, 279 - - Virginal milk, 326 - - Virginia vaseline pomade, 297 - - Vitivert-oil tincture, 236 - - Vitivert, or vetiver oil, 150, 151 - tincture, 233 - - Volatile oil, apparatus for determining the percentage of, in a - vegetable substance, 40, 41 - apparatus for the distillation of, 41-46 - Planchon's procedure for the recognition of a, 83-86 - separation of the, and 46, 47 - testing the odor of, 66 - the taste of, 67 - oils, 33-65 - ancient method of distilling, 24 - apparatus for the extraction of, 48-57 - characteristics of, 33, 34 - concentrated, 35 - detection of adulterations of, with an oil of lower quality, 74-83 - distillation of, 39-48 - division of, with reference to the guaiacum reaction, 79, 80 - expression of, 36-39 - extraction of, 48-58 - extra strong, 35 - for Cologne water, durability of, 250, 251 - localities best suited for the cultivation of flowers for the - production of, 32, 33 - modes of obtaining, 36-65 - patented, 35 - principal divisions of, 34 - solubility of, 33 - storage of, 65 - testing of, 66-86 - the, used in perfumery, 87-154 - or essential oils, occurrence of, in plants, 31 - - - Walnut hair dye, 320 - pomade, 295 - shells, green, for dyeing the hair, 318 - - Washes, 326-328 - - Wash for the hands, 334 - - Water, fumigating, 266 - separation of the, and oil, 46, 47 - - Wax pomade, cheap, 300 - pomades, 298 - - White lead, 336 - liquid paint, 341 - paint, 337 - rose solid perfume, 259 - smelling salts, 260, 261 - stick paint, 340 - thyme oil, 147 - tooth-powder, 280 - - Williams, F. R., utilization of Maumené's test by, 82, 83 - - Wintergreen oil, 151-153 - adulteration of, 153 - tincture, 236 - - Ylang-ylang hair oil, 303 - oil, 153, 154 - tincture, 236 - sachet powder, 257 - - Yunnan musk, 178, 179 - - - Zibethum, 184, 185 - - Zinc white, 336 - - -Transcriber's Notes - -Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected. - -Variable use of accents and ligatures has been standardised to ensure -compatibility between text and index. - -The reference in the index to oleum uonæ has been corrected to oleum -unonæ. - -The index lists Pomade - cheap - wax at page 390, which does not exist. -This has been changed to 290.> - -Footnotes 12 and 13, merely repeat footnote 11, so have been removed -and all references changed to footnote 11. - -Italics are shown thus _italic_ and subscripts thus {2}. - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Practical Treatise on the -Manufacture of Perfumery, by C. 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Deite - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Perfumery - -Author: C. Deite - -Translator: William T. Brannt - -Release Date: October 6, 2015 [EBook #50139] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TREATISE ON MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY *** - - - - -Produced by deaurider, Les Galloway and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - - - - - -<h1> -A PRACTICAL TREATISE<br /> - -<span class="xs">ON THE</span><br /> - -MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY:</h1> - -<p class="center"><span class="xs">COMPRISING</span></p> - -<p class="center"><small>DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING ALL KINDS OF PERFUMES, SACHET<br /> -POWDERS, FUMIGATING MATERIALS, DENTIFRICES,<br /> -COSMETICS, ETC., ETC.</small>,</p> - -<p class="center"><span class="xs">WITH A FULL ACCOUNT OF THE</span></p> - -<p class="center"><small>VOLATILE OILS, BALSAMS, RESINS, AND OTHER NATURAL<br /> -AND ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-SUBSTANCES, INCLUDING<br /> -THE MANUFACTURE OF FRUIT ETHERS, AND<br /> -TESTS OF THEIR PURITY</small>.</p> - -<p class="center"><small>BY</small></p> - -<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Dr.</span> C. DEITE,<br /> - -<span class="smcap"><small>Assisted by L. BORCHERT, F. EICHBAUM, E. KUGLER,<br /> -H. TOEFFNER, and other experts</small></span>.</p> - -<p class="center"><small>FROM THE GERMAN BY</small></p> - -<p class="center">WILLIAM T. BRANNT,<br /> - -<span class="xs">EDITOR OF "THE TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT-BOOK."</span></p> - -<p class="center">ILLUSTRATED BY TWENTY-EIGHT ENGRAVINGS.</p> - -<p class="center"><small>PHILADELPHIA</small>:<br /> -HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.,<br /> -<small>INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHERS, BOOKSELLERS AND IMPORTERS,<br /> -810 WALNUT STREET.<br /> -1892</small>.</p> - - - -<p class="center space-above"> -<span class="smcap"><small>Copyright by</small></span><br /> -<small>HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.<br /> -1892</small>.</p> -<p class="center space-above"> -<small><span class="smcap">Printed at the</span> COLLINS PRINTING HOUSE,<br /> -705 Jayne Street,<br /> -<span class="smcap">Philadelphia</span>, U. S. A.</small> -</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[Pg iii]</a></span></p> - - - - -<div class="chapter"><h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE">PREFACE.</a></h2></div> - - -<p>A translation of the portion of the -"Handbuch der Parfümerie-und Toiletteseifenfabrikation," -edited by Dr. <span class="smcap">C. Deite</span>, relating -to perfumery and cosmetics, is presented to -the English reading public with the full confidence -that it will not only fill a useful place -in technical literature, but will also prove—for -what it is chiefly intended—a ready book of -reference and a practical help and guide for -the perfumer's laboratory. The names of the -editor and his co-workers are a sufficient -guaranty of its value and practical usefulness, -they all being experienced men, well schooled -each in the particular branch of the industry, -the treatment of which has been assigned to -him.</p> - -<p>The most suitable and approved formulæ, -tested by experience, have been given; and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[Pg iv]</a></span> -special attention has been paid to the description -of the raw materials, as well as to the -various methods of testing them, the latter -being of special importance, since in no other -industry has the manufacturer to contend with -such gross and universal adulteration of raw -materials.</p> - -<p>It is hoped that the additions made here and -there by the translator, as well as the portion -relating to the manufacture of "Fruit Ethers," -added by him, may contribute to the interest -and usefulness of the treatise.</p> - -<p>Finally, it remains only to be stated that, -with their usual liberality, the publishers have -spared no expense in the proper illustration -and the mechanical production of the book; -and, as is their universal practice, have caused -it to be provided with a copious table of contents -and a very full index, which will add -additional value by rendering any subject in it -easy and prompt of reference.</p> - -<p class="right"> -W. T. B.</p> - -<blockquote> -<p><span class="smcap">Philadelphia</span>, May 2, 1892.</p></blockquote> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[Pg v]</a></span></p> - - - - -<div class="chapter"><h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS.</a></h2></div> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I</a>.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"><small>HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY</small>.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdrb" colspan="2"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Consumption of perfume-substances by the early nations of the Orient</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_17">17</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Perfume-substances as an offering to the gods and their use for embalming the dead; Arts of the toilet in ancient times</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_18">18</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Perfume-substances used by the Hebrews; Olibanum and the mode of gaining it in ancient times, as described by Herodotus</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_19">19</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Pliny's account of olibanum</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_20">20</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Practice of anointing the entire body customary among the ancients; The holy oil prescribed by Moses; Origin of the sweet-scented ointment "myron"</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Luxurious use of ointments in Athens, and the special ointments used for each part of the body; Introduction of ointments in Rome, and edict prohibiting the sale of foreign ointments; Plutarch on the extravagant use of ointments in Rome</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_22">22</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Ancient books containing directions for preparing ointments; Directions for rose ointment, according to Dioscorides</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_23">23</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Ancient process of distilling volatile oils; Dioscorides's directions for making animal fats suitable for the reception of perfumes; Consumption of perfume-substances by the ancient Romans; Condition of the ancient ointment-makers</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Use of red and white paints, hair-dyes, and depilatories by the Romans</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_25">25</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[Pg vi]</a></span></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Peculiar substance for cleansing the teeth used by the Roman ladies; Perfumeries and cosmetics in the Middle Ages; Receipts for cosmetics in the writings of Arabian physicians, and of Guy de Chanlios</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_26">26</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Giovanni Marinello's work on "Cosmetics for Ladies;" Introduction of the arts of the toilet into France, by Catherine de Medici and Margaret of Valois</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_27">27</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Extravagant use of cosmetics in France from the commencement of the seventeenth to the middle of the eighteenth century</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_28">28</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Importance of the perfumer's craft in France; Chief seats of the French perfumery industry</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Privileges of the <i lang="fr">parfumeurs-gantiers</i> in France; Use of perfumes in England; Act of Parliament prohibiting the use of perfumeries, false hair, etc., for deceiving a man and inveigling him into matrimony</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_30">30</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II</a>.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"><small>THE PERFUME-MATERIALS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY</small>.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Derivation of the perfume-substances; Animal substances used; Occurrence of volatile oils in plants</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_31">31</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Families of plants richest in oil; Central Europe the actual flower garden of the perfumer; Principal localities for the cultivation of plants</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_32">32</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Volatile oils and their properties</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Principal divisions of volatile oils</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_34">34</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Constitution of terpenes; Concentrated volatile oils</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_35">35</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Modes of gaining volatile oils; Expression</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_36">36</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Clarification of the oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Filter for clarifying the oil, illustrated and described</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_38">38</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Distillation</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_39">39</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Apparatus for determining the percentage of volatile oil a vegetable substance will yield, illustrated and described</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_40">40</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Various stills for the distillation of volatile oils, illustrated and described</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_41">41</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</a></span></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Distillation of volatile oils by means of hot air; Separation of the oil and water; Florentine flasks, illustrated and described</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_46">46</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Separator-funnel, illustrated and described</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_47">47</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Extraction</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_48">48</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Various apparatuses for extraction, illustrated and described</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_49">49</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Heyl's distilling apparatus</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_57">57</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Maceration or infusion; Pomades; Purification of the fats used in the maceration process</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_58">58</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh"><i lang="fr">Huiles antiques</i>; Old French process of maceration; Piver's maceration apparatus, illustrated and described</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_59">59</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Flowers for which maceration is employed; Absorption or <i lang="fr">enfleurage</i></td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_60">60</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Apparatuses for absorption, illustrated and described</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_61">61</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Flowers for which the absorption process is employed; Storage of volatile oils</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_65">65</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III</a>.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"><small>TESTING VOLATILE OILS</small>.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Extensive adulteration of volatile oils; Testing volatile oils as to odor and taste</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_66">66</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Recognition of an adulteration with fat oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_67">67</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Detection of alcohol or spirit of wine; Dragendorff's test</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_68">68</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Hager's tannin test</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_69">69</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Detection of chloroform; Detection of benzine</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_71">71</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Quantitative determination of adulterations with alcohol, chloroform, and benzine</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_72">72</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Detection of adulterations with terpenes or terpene-like fluids</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_73">73</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Detection of adulterations with volatile oils of a lower quality; Test with iodine</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_74">74</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Hoppe's nitroprusside of copper test</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_75">75</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Table showing the behavior of volatile oils free from oxygen towards nitroprusside of copper</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_76">76</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Hager's alcohol and sulphuric acid test; Hager's guaiacum reaction</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_78">78</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[Pg viii]</a></span></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Division of the volatile oils with reference to the guaiacum reaction</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_79">79</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Hübl's iodine method</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_80">80</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">A. Kremel's test by titration or saponification with alcoholic potash lye</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_81">81</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Utilization of Maumené's test by F. R. Williams</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_82">82</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Planchon's proposed procedure for the recognition of a volatile oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_83">83</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV</a>.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"><small>THE VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY</small>.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Acacia oil or oil of cassie; Almond oil (bitter)</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_87">87</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Adulterations of oil of bitter almonds and their detection</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_90">90</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Angelica oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_92">92</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Anise-seed oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_93">93</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Star anise oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_94">94</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Balm oil; Basil oil; Bayberry oil, or oil of bay leaves</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_96">96</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Bergamot oil; Testing bergamot oil as to its purity</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_97">97</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Cajeput oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_98">98</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Camomile or chamomile oil; Blue camomile oil; Green camomile oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_99">99</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Caraway oil; Recognition of the purity of caraway oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_100">100</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Cedar oil; Cherry-laurel oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_101">101</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Detection of oil of mirbane in cherry-laurel oil; Cinnamon oils; Ceylon cinnamon oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_102">102</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Cassia oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_103">103</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Cinnamon-root oil and oil of cinnamon leaves; Quantitative determination of cinnamaldehyde in cassia oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_104">104</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Detection of adulterations in cassia oil; Citron oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_106">106</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Detection of adulterations in citron oil; Citronella oil; Detection of adulterations in citronella oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_107">107</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Oil of cloves</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_108">108</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Test for the value of oil of cloves</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_109">109</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Eucalyptus oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_110">110</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Fennel oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_111">111</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[Pg ix]</a></span></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Geranium oil, palmarosa oil, Turkish geranium oil; East Indian geranium oil; French and African geranium oils</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_112">112</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Adulterations of geranium oils; Jasmine oil, or oil of jessamine</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_113">113</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Juniper oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_114">114</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Lavender oil; Spike oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_115">115</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Detection of adulterations of lavender oil; Lemon oil; Sponge process of obtaining lemon oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_116">116</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Écuelle process</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_117">117</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Distillation; Apparatus combining the écuelle and distilling processes, illustrated and described</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_118">118</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Adulterations of oil of lemons and their detection: Lilac oil; Oil of limes</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_121">121</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Licari oil, linaloë oil; Marjoram oils; Spanish marjoram oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_122">122</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Mignonette oil; Myrrh oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_123">123</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Nutmeg oils; Mace oil; Adulterations of mace oil and their detection</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_124">124</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Opopanax oil; Orange-peel oil, Portugal oil or essence of Portugal; Mandarin oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_125">125</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Orange-flower oil or neroli oil; Neroli Portugal oil; Cultivation of the orange on the French Riviera and yield of orange blossoms; Characteristics of oil of orange flowers</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_126">126</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Adulterations of neroli oil and their detection</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_127">127</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Petit-grain oil; Oil of orris root</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_129">129</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Patchouli oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_130">130</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Varieties and characteristics of patchouli oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_131">131</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Peppermint oil; Oil of curled mint; Peppermint oil and its varieties</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_132">132</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">American oils of peppermint of high reputation; Mode of distinguishing American, German, and English oils of peppermint</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_133">133</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Adulterants of peppermint oil and their detection</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_134">134</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Poley oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_135">135</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Pimento oil or oil of allspice; Rose oil or attar of roses; Principal localities of its production; Schimmel & Co.'s, of Leipzic, Germany, experiment to obtain oil from indigenous roses</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_136">136</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[Pg x]</a></span></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">The rose-oil industry in Bulgaria; Methods of gathering and distilling the roses</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_137">137</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Characteristics of pure rose oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_138">138</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Manner of judging the genuineness of rose oil; Process for the insulation and determination of stearoptene in rose oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_139">139</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Adulteration of rose oil with ginger-grass oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_140">140</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Test for the adulteration of rose oil with ginger-grass oil employed in Bulgaria</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_141">141</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Adulterants of rose oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_142">142</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Tests for rose oil; Approximate quantitative determination of spermaceti in rose oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_143">143</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Rosemary oil; Detection of adulterations in rosemary oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_144">144</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Rosewood oil or rhodium oil; Sandal-wood oil; Sassafras oil; Characteristics of sassafras oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_145">145</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Thyme oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_147">147</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Oil of turpentine; Austrian oil of turpentine; German oil of turpentine; French oil of turpentine; Venetian oil of turpentine</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_148">148</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">American oil of turpentine; Pine oil; Dwarf pine oil; Krummholz or Latschenoel; Pine-leaf oil; Templin oil (Kienoel); Balsam-pine oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_149">149</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Oil of verbena; Oil of violet; Vitivert or vetiver oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_150">150</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Wintergreen oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_151">151</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Birch oil; Artificial preparation of methyl salicylate</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_152">152</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Adulteration of wintergreen oil and its detection; Ylang-ylang oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_153">153</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Cananga oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_154">154</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V</a>.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"><small>RESINS AND BALSAMS</small>.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Elementary constituents of resins; Division of resins; Hard resins; Soft resins or balsams; Gum-resins</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_155">155</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Diffusion of resins in the vegetable kingdom; Benzoin</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_156">156</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Varieties of benzoin and their characteristics</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_157">157</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Peru balsam and mode of obtaining it</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_159">159</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">White Peru balsam</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_160">160</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[Pg xi]</a></span></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Characteristics of Peru balsam</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_161">161</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Adulterants of Peru balsam and their detection</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_162">162</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Tolu balsam and its characteristics</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_166">166</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">A new variety of Tolu balsam</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_167">167</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Storax; Liquid storax and its characteristics</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_168">168</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Adulteration of liquid storax and its detection</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_170">170</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Storax in grains; Ordinary storax</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_171">171</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">American storax, white Peru balsam, white Indian balsam, or liquid-ambar; Myrrh</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_172">172</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Myrrha electa and its characteristics</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_173">173</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Constitution of myrrh</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_174">174</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Adulteration of myrrh and its detection</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_175">175</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Opopanax; Olibanum or frankincense</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_176">176</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Commercial varieties of olibanum; Sandarac and its characteristics</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_177">177</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI</a>.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"><small>PERFUME-SUBSTANCES FROM THE ANIMAL KINGDOM</small>.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Musk and its varieties; Musk sacs, illustrated and described</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_178">178</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Characteristics of Tonkin musk</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_180">180</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Musk of the American musk-rat as a substitute for genuine musk</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_181">181</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Other possible substitutes for the musk-deer; Artificial musk</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_182">182</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Adulterations of musk and their detection</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_183">183</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Civet</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_184">184</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Castor and its varieties</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_185">185</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Adulterations of castor; Ambergris</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_186">186</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Constituents of ambergris</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_187">187</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Adulterations of ambergris</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_188">188</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII</a>.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"><small>ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS</small>.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Conversion of oil of turpentine into oil of lemons by Bouchardat</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">and Lafont</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_189">189</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Cumarin, its occurrence and properties</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_190">190</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii">[Pg xii]</a></span></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Varieties of tonka beans found in commerce</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_191">191</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Preparation of cumarin from tonka beans; Artificial preparation of cumarin from salicylic acid</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_192">192</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Synthetical preparation of cumarin; Heliotropin or piperonal and its characteristics</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_193">193</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Preparation of heliotropin</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_194">194</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Vanillin; Characteristics of the vanilla</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_195">195</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Artificial preparation of vanillin</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_196">196</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Characteristics of vanillin</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_197">197</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Adulteration of vanillin, and its detection; Nitrobenzol</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_198">198</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Characteristics of nitrobenzol or oil of mirbane; adulteration of nitrobenzol and its detection</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_199">199</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Fruit ethers and their characteristics</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_200">200</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Acetic amyl ether or amyl acetate, its preparation and use; Acetic ether or ethyl acetate and its preparation</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_201">201</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Benzoic ether or ethyl benzoate and its preparation</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_204">204</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Butyric ethyl ether or ethyl butyrate; Preparation of butyric acid</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_205">205</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Preparation of butyric ether</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_207">207</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">St. John's bread or carob as material for the preparation of butyric ether</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_209">209</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Formic ethyl ether, or ethyl formate and its preparation</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_210">210</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Nitrous ether or ethyl nitrate and its preparation according to Kopp's method</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_211">211</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Preparation and use of nitrous ether in England and America</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_212">212</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Valerianic amyl ether or amyl valerate and its preparation</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_214">214</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Valerianic ethyl ether; Apple ether; Apricot ether; Cherry ether; Pear ether; Pineapple ether; Strawberry ether; Preparation of fruit essences; Apple essence; Apricot essence</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_216">216</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Cherry essence; Currant essence; Grape essence; Lemon essence; Melon essence; Orange essence; Peach essence; Pear essence; Pineapple essence; Plum essence</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_217">217</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xiii" id="Page_xiii">[Pg xiii]</a></span>Raspberry essence; Strawberry essence</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_218">218</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII</a>.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"><small>ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES</small>.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Division of alcoholic perfumes; What constitutes the art of the perfumer; Qualities of flower-pomades and their designation</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_219">219</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Storage of flower-pomades; Extraction of flower-pomades</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_220">220</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Apparatus for making alcoholic extracts from flower-pomades, illustrated and described</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_221">221</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Beyer frères improved apparatus, illustrated and described</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_223">223</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Tinctures and extracts and their preparation</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_225">225</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Beyer frères apparatus for the preparation of tinctures, illustrated and described</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_226">226</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Musk tincture; Civet tincture</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_228">228</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Ambergris tincture; Castor tincture; Benzoin tincture; Peru balsam tincture; Tolu balsam tincture</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_229">229</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Olibanum tincture; Opopanax tincture; Storax tincture; Myrrh tincture; Musk-seed or abelmosk tincture</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_230">230</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Angelica root tincture; Orris-root tincture; Musk-root or sumbul-root tincture; Tonka-bean tincture</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_231">231</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Cumarin tincture; Heliotropin tincture; Vanilla tincture; Vanillin tincture</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_232">232</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Vitivert tincture; Juniper-berry tincture; Patchouli extract</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_233">233</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Tinctures from volatile oils; Almond-oil (bitter) tincture; Balm-oil tincture; Bergamot-oil tincture; Canango-oil tincture</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_234">234</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Cassia-oil tincture; Cedar-oil tincture; Cinnamon-oil tincture; Citronella-oil tincture; Clove-oil tincture; Eucalyptus-oil tincture; Geranium-oil tincture; Lavender-oil tincture; Lemon-grass-oil tincture; Lemon-oil tincture; Licari-oil tincture; Myrrh-oil tincture; Neroli-oil tincture; Opopanax-oil tincture; Orris-root-oil tincture; Patchouli-oil tincture</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_235">235</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Petit-grain-oil tincture; Pine-leaf-oil tincture; Portugal-oil tincture; Sandal-wood-oil tincture; Verbena-oil tincture; Vitivert-oil tincture; Wintergreen-oil tincture; Ylang-ylang-oil tincture; Rose-oil tincture</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_236">236</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xiv" id="Page_xiv">[Pg xiv]</a></span></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Extraits aux fleurs; Extrait acacia; Extrait cassie; Extrait héliotrope; Extrait jacinthe</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_237">237</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Extrait jasmin; Essence of the odor of linden blossoms; Extrait jonquille; Extrait magnolia; Extrait muguet (lily of the valley); Extrait fleurs de Mai (May flowers)</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_238">238</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Extrait ixora; Extrait orange; Extrait white rose; Extrait rose v. d. centifolie; Extrait violette; Coloring substance for extraits; Extrait de violette de Parme</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_239">239</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Extrait tubereuse; Extrait réséda; Extrait ylang-ylang; Compound odors (bouquets); Extrait Edelweiss; Extrait ess-bouquet</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_240">240</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Extrait spring flower; Extrait bouquet Eugenie; Extrait excelsior; Extrait Frangipani; Extrait jockey club</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_241">241</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Extrait opopanax; Extrait patchouli; Extrait millefleurs; Extrait bouquet Victoria</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_242">242</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Extrait kiss-me-quick; Extrait mogadore; Extrait bouquet Prince Albert; Extrait muse; Extrait new-mown hay; Extrait chypre</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_243">243</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Extrait maréchal; Extrait mousseline; Extraits triple concentrés and their preparations</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_244">244</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Concentrated flower-extract for the preparation of extraits d'Odeurs; Extraits d'Odeurs, quality II</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_245">245</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Extrait violette II; Extrait rose II; Extrait réséda II; Extrait ylang-ylang II</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_246">246</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Extrait new-mown hay II; Extrait chypre II; Extrait ess-bouquet II</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_247">247</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Extrait muguet II; Extrait bouquet Victoria II; Extrait spring flower II; Extrait ixora II</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_248">248</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Extrait Frangipani II; Cologne water (eau de Cologne) and its preparation</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_249">249</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Durability of the volatile oils used in the preparation of Cologne water</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_250">250</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Cologne water, quality I</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_252">252</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Cologne water, quality II; Cologne water, quality III; Cologne water, quality IV; Cologne water, quality V</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_253">253</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Maiglöckchen eau de Cologne; Various other receipts for Cologne water</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_254">254</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xv" id="Page_xv">[Pg xv]</a></span></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Eau de Lavande; Eau de vie de Lavande double ambrée; Eau de Lavande double; Aqua mellis; Eau de Lisbonne</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_255">255</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX</a>.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"><small>DRY PERFUMES</small>.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Use of dry perfumes in ancient times; Sachet powders and their preparation</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_256">256</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Sachet à la rose; Sachet à la violette; Hliotrope sachet powder; Ylang-ylang sachet powder; Jockey club sachet</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_257">257</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Sachet aux millefleurs; Lily of the valley sachet powder; Patchouli sachet powder; Frangipani sachet powder; Victoria sachet powder; Réséda sachet powder</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_258">258</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Musk sachet powder; Ess-bouquet sachet powder; New-mown hay sachet powder; Orange sachet powder; Solid perfumes with paraffine; White rose</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_259">259</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Ess-bouquet; Lavender odor; Eau de Cologne; Smelling salts; Preston salt and "menthol pungent" as prepared by William W. Bartlett; White smelling salt</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_260">260</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X</a>.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"><small>FUMIGATING ESSENCES, PASTILLES, POWDERS, ETC</small>.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Constitution of fumigating agents; Object of fumigating;</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Prejudice against fumigating; Mode of fumigating</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_262">262</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Atomizers; Objections to dry fumigating agents</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_263">263</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Fumigating essences and vinegars; Rose-flower fumigating essence; Flower fumigating essence—héliotrope</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_264">264</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Violet-flower fumigating essence; Oriental flower fumigating essence; Pine odor (for atomizing); Juniper odor; fumigating balsam</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_265">265</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Fumigating water; Fumigating vinegar; Fumigating powders; Ordinary fumigating powder</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_266">266</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Rose fumigating powder; Violet fumigating powder; Orange fumigating powder; New-mown hay fumigating powder</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_267">267</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xvi" id="Page_xvi">[Pg xvi]</a></span>Fumigating paper; Fumigating pastilles</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_268">268</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Ordinary red fumigating pastilles; Ordinary black fumigating pastilles; Musk fumigating pastilles</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_269">269</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Rose fumigating pastilles; Violet fumigating pastilles; Millefleurs fumigating pastilles; Fumigating lacquer</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_270">270</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI</a>.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"><small>DENTIFRICES, MOUTH-WATERS, ETC</small>.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Selection of materials for and compounding of dentifrices</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_272">272</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Soap as a constituent of dentifrices; Value of thymol for dentifrices; Object of glycerin in dentifrices</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_273">273</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Tooth and mouth waters; Thymol tooth-water; Eau dentifrice Botot; Eau dentifrice Orientale</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_274">274</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Violet mouth-water; Antiseptic gargle; Odontine; Sozodont; Eau de Botot (improved)</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_275">275</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Quinine tooth-water; Dr. Stahl's tooth-tincture; Esprit de menthe; Arnica tooth-tincture; Myrrh tooth-tincture</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_276">276</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Tooth-pastes and tooth-powders; tooth-paste or odontine</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_277">277</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Thymol tooth-paste; Cherry tooth-paste; Non-fermenting cherry tooth-paste; Odontine paste</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_278">278</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Thymol tooth-powder; Poudre dentifrice; Violet tooth-powder</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_279">279</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Dr. Hufeland's tooth-powder; White tooth-powder; Black tooth-powder; Poudre de corail; Camphor tooth-powder; Opiat liquide pour les dents</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_280">280</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Poudre d'Algérine</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_281">281</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Dr. Hufeland's tooth-soap</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_282">282</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Tooth-soap; Saponaceous tooth-wash</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_283">283</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII</a>.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"><small>HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS, AND HAIR TONICS; HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORIES</small>.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Fats used for the preparation of pomades; Reputation of some fats as hair pomades</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_284">284</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Pomades and their preparation; Purification of the fat</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_285">285</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Substances used for coloring pomades; Fine French pomades (flower-pomades); Maceration or extraction of the flowers</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_286">286</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xvii" id="Page_xvii">[Pg xvii]</a></span></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Receipts for some flower-pomades; Pommade à la rose; Pommade à l'acacia; Pommade à la fleur d'orange; Pommade à l'héliotrope</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_287">287</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Pomades according to the German method and their preparation; Foundations for white pomades</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_288">288</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Apple pomade; Bear's grease pomade; Quinine pomades</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_289">289</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Quinine pomades (imitation); Benzoin pomade; Densdorf pomade; Ice pomades; Family pomades</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_290">290</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Strawberry pomade; Fine hair pomade; Pomade for promoting the growth of the hair; Héliotrope pomades</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_291">291</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Jasmine pomade; Emperor pomade; Macassar pomade; Portugal pomade; Herb pomade; Lanolin pomade</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_292">292</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Oriental pomade; Paraffin ice pomade; Neroli pomade; Cheap pomade (red, yellow, white); Mignonette pomade; Castor oil pomades; Princess pomade</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_293">293</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Fine pomade; Beef-marrow pomade; Rogers's pomade for producing a beard; Rose pomade; Fine rose pomade; Finest rose pomade; Salicylic pomade; Victoria pomade; Tonka pomade</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_294">294</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Fine vanilla pomade; Vanilla pomade; Violet pomade; Walnut pomade; Vaseline pomades</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_295">295</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Foundations for vaseline pomades; Bouquet vaseline pomade; Family vaseline pomade; Lily of the valley vaseline pomade; Neroli vaseline pomade</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_296">296</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Mignonette vaseline pomade; Portugal vaseline pomade; Rose vaseline pomades; Fine vaseline pomade (yellow); Vaseline pomade (red); Vaseline pomade (white); Virginia vaseline pomade; Victoria vaseline pomade</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_297">297</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Extra fine vaseline pomade; Stick pomades; Foundations for stick pomades; Manufacture of stick pomades</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_298">298</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Rose-wax pomade; Black-wax pomade; Blonde-wax pomade; Brown-wax pomade</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_299">299</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Cheap wax pomades; Resin pomades; Hair oils; Huiles antiques; Vaseline oil for hair oils; Treatment of oils with benzoin</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_300">300</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xviii" id="Page_xviii">[Pg xviii]</a></span></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Preparation of huiles antiques; Huile antique à la rose; Huile antique au jasmin; Alpine herb oil; Flower hair oil; Peruvian bark hair oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_301">301</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Peru hair oil; Burdock root hair oils; Macassar hair oils; Neroli hair oil; Mignonette hair oils; Fine hair oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_302">302</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Cheap hair oil (red or yellow); Portugal hair oil; Jasmine hair oil; Vaseline hair oils; Vanilla hair oil; Ylang-ylang hair oil; Philocome hair oil</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_303">303</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Sultana hair oil; Rose hair oil; Tonka hair oil; Violet hair oil; Victoria hair oil; Cheap hair oils; Bandolines and their preparation</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_304">304</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Rose bandoline; Almond bandoline; Brilliantine</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_305">305</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Flower brilliantine No. 1; Brilliantine No. 2</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_306">306</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Brilliantine No. 3; Various formulas for brilliantine</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_307">307</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Hair tonics; Eau Athénienne; Florida water</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_308">308</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Eau de Cologne hair tonic; Eau de quinine</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_309">309</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Eau de quinine (imitation); Honey water; Glycerin hair tonic; Eau lustral (hair restorative); Tea hair tonic</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_310">310</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Locock's lotion for the hair; Shampoo lotion; Shampoo liquid</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_311">311</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Dandruff cures; Dandruff lotion; Bay rum</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_312">312</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Directions for preparing bay rum</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_313">313</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Hair dyes; Requirements of a good hair dye; Gradual darkening of the hair; Use of dilute acids for making the hair lighter</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_314">314</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Use of lead salts, nitrate of silver, and copper salts for dyeing the hair</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_315">315</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Iron salts for dying the hair; Rastikopetra, a Turkish hair dye; Use of potassium permanganate and pyrogallic acid for dyeing the hair</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_316">316</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Kohol, an Egyptian hair dye; The use of henna as a hair dye; Process of coloring hair, dyed red with henna, black</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_317">317</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Use of the juice of green walnut shells for coloring the hair; Bleaching the hair with peroxide of hydrogen; Formulæ for hair dyes</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_318">318</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Single hair dyes; Teinture Orientale (Karsi); Teinture Chinoise (Kohol)</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_319">319</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xix" id="Page_xix">[Pg xix]</a></span></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Potassium permanganate hair dye; Bismuth hair dye; Walnut hair dye; Pyrogallic hair stain</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_320">320</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Double hair dyes; For dyeing brown; For dyeing black; Tannin hair dye</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_321">321</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Melanogène; Eau d'Afrique; Krinochrom; Copper hair dye; Depilatories; Rhusma</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_322">322</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Boettger's depilatory; Bartholow's depilatory</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_323">323</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII</a>.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdc" colspan="2"><small>COSMETICS</small>.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Skin cosmetics; Toilet vinegars; Vinaigre de Bully; Vinaigre de toilette à la rose; Vinaigre de toilette à la violette</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_324">324</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Vinaigre de toilette héliotrope; Vinaigre de toilette orange; Vinaigre de toilette; Aromatic vinegar; English aromatic vinegar</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_325">325</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Toilet vinegar; Washes; Virginal milk (Lait virginal); Rose milk (Lait de rose)</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_326">326</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Almond milk (Lait d'amandes amères)</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_327">327</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Lily milk (Lait de lys); Perfumed glycerin with rose odor; Perfumed glycerin with fruit odor; Perfumed meals and pastes; Farin de noisette (nut meal)</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_328">328</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Farin d'amandes amères (almond meal); Pate d'amandes au miel (honey almond paste); Poudre de riz à la rose</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_329">329</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Poudre de riz héliotrope; Poudre de riz orange; Poudre de riz muguet</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_330">330</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Poudre de riz ixora; Poudre de riz bouquet; Cold creams and lip salves; Cold cream; Vaseline cold cream</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_331">331</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Glycerin cream; Crême de concombre; Glycerin gelée; Glycerin jelly</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_332">332</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Cream of roses; Boroglycerin cream; Récamier cream; Preparations for chapped hands</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_333">333</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Wash for the hands; Nail powder; Lip-salves</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_334">334</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Paints; Pulverulent paints (powders); "Blanc fard" or "Blanc français"</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_335">335</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xx" id="Page_xx">[Pg xx]</a></span></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Mixtures for powders; Coloring substances for powders; Powder for coloring intensely red; Solid paints; Ordinary red paint (rouge)</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_336">336</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Fine red paint (rouge); White paint; Preparation of paints</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_337">337</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Red stick-paint (stick rouge); Moulding the rouge into sticks</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_339">339</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">White stick-paint; Rouge en feuilles; Liquid paints; Liquid rouge</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_340">340</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">White liquid paint; Fat paints</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_341">341</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh">Crême de Lys; Crême de rose</td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_342">342</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlh"><span class="smcap">Index</span></td><td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_343">343</a></td></tr> -</table></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span></p> - - - - -<p class="ph1">A PRACTICAL TREATISE<br /> - -<span class="xs">ON THE</span><br /> - -MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY.</p> -<hr class="small" /> - - -<hr class="chap" /><div class="chapter"><h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</a></h2></div> - -<p class="subh">HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY.</p> - - -<p>Nature has implanted in man the instinct of finding -the odor accompanying decay and putrefaction insufferable, -of fleeing from it, and of going in quest of fragrant -odors. Hence, in ancient times, perfume substances -were highly esteemed, and an offering of them was -considered a sign of the most profound reverence and -homage. The early nations of the Orient especially -used perfume substances in such profusion that the consumption -of them by the finest lady of to-day must be -called a comparatively moderate one. This may, however, -be readily explained, for, on the one hand, the -majority of plants which produce the most agreeable -perfumes in larger quantity are indigenous to the -Orient; and, on the other, the excessive exhalations -from the human body, caused by the hot climate, forced -the people to search for means to remove, or at least to -cover, the disagreeable odor arising therefrom.</p> - -<p>Since fragrant odors were agreeable to human beings,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> -it was believed that they must be welcome also to the -gods, and, to honor them, perfume substances were burned -upon the altars. Besides, as an offering to the gods, perfume -substances were extensively used by many nations, -especially by the Egyptians, for embalming the dead, the -process employed by the latter having been transmitted -to us by the ancient authors Herodotus and Diodorus.</p> - -<p>Furthermore, a desire for ornamentation and to give -to the face and body as pleasing an appearance as possible, -is common to all mankind. To be sure, the ideas -of what constitutes beauty in this respect have varied -at different times and among the various nations. But, -independent of the savage races, who consider painting -and tattooing the body and face an embellishment, -and taking into consideration only the earliest civilized -nations, it is astonishing how many arts of the toilet -have been preserved from the most ancient historical -times up to the present. "In the most ancient historical -times, people perfumed and painted, frizzed, curled, -and dyed the hair as at present, and, in fact, the same -cosmetics, only slightly augmented, which were in use -hundreds, nay, thousands, of years ago are still employed -to-day."<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> It is especially woman, who everywhere exercises -the arts of the toilet, while, with the exception of -perfumes and agents for the hair, man is but seldom -referred to as making use of cosmetics. The young -girls of ancient Egypt used red and white paints, colored -their pale lips, and anointed their hair with sweet-scented -oils; they dyed their eyelashes and eyelids black -to impart a brighter lustre to the glance of the eye, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> -the mother of the wife of the first king of Egypt is said -to have already composed a receipt for a hair-dye.</p> - -<p>From the Egyptians, the practices of the toilet, like -many other things, were transmitted to the Jews. In -Egypt, the Hebrew woman had known the sweet-scented -flower of the henna bush, and, finding it also in Judea, it -served her as a perfume. In the Bible the henna flower -is called <i lang="he">kopher</i>, in Greek <i lang="el">kypros</i>, and the Cyprian salve, -mentioned by Pliny, was prepared by boiling henna -flowers in oil and then expressing them.</p> - -<p>Painting the face was also practised by the Hebrew -women, reference being made to it in II. Kings ix. 30, -and Jeremiah v. 30, while painting of the eyes is mentioned -in Ezekiel xxiii. 40.</p> - -<p>The number of perfume substances known to the -ancient Hebrews was but a limited one, they consisting, -besides the above-mentioned henna flower, chiefly of a -few gum-resins, especially bdellium, olibanum and -myrrh.</p> - -<p>In ancient times olibanum was, without doubt, the -most important perfume-substance. It was introduced -into commerce by the Phoenicians, and, like many other -substances, it received from them its name, which was -adopted by other nations. Thus, the Hebrews called -the tree <i lang="he">lebonah</i>, the Arabs, <i lang="ar">lubah</i>, while the Greeks -named it, λιβανός and the resin derived from it, the celebrated -frankincense of the ancients, λιβανωτόςτς, Latin, <i lang="la">olibanum</i>. -Regarding the mode of gaining the olibanum, -some curious ideas prevailed in ancient times. Thus, -Herodotus writes: "Arabia is the only country in which -olibanum grows, as well as myrrh, cassia, cinnamon and -lederum. With the exception of myrrh, the Arabs<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> -encounter many difficulties in procuring these products. -Olibanum they obtain by burning styrax, for every olibanum -tree is guarded by a number of small-sized -winged serpents of a variegated appearance, which can -be driven away by nothing but styrax vapors." According -to Pliny, who gives a very full account of olibanum, -<i lang="la">Arabia felix</i> received its by-name from the abundance of -olibanum and myrrh found there. He states that olibanum -grows in no other country besides Arabia, but it -is not found in every part of it. About in the centre, -upon a high mountain, he continues, is the country of -the Atramites, a province of the Sabeans, from which the -olibanum region is distant about eight days' journey. -It is called Saba and is everywhere rendered inaccessible -by mountains, a narrow defile, through which the export -is carried on, leading into an adjoining province inhabited -by the Mineans. In Saba itself were not more than -300 families, called the saints, who claimed the cultivation -of olibanum as a right of heritage. When making -the incisions in the trees, and while gathering the olibanum, -the men were prohibited from having intercourse -with women and from attending funerals. Notwithstanding -the fact that the Romans carried on war in Arabia, -none of them had ever seen an olibanum tree. When -there was less chance of selling the olibanum, it was -gathered but once in the year, but since the increase in -the demand, it was gathered twice, first in the fall and -again in the spring, the incisions in the trees having been -made during the winter. The collected olibanum was -brought upon camels to Sabota, where one gate was open -for its reception; to turn from the road was prohibited -under penalty of death. The priests took one-tenth by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> -measure for the god Sabin, sales not being allowed until -their claim was satisfied. The olibanum could be exported -only through the territory of the Gebanites, whose -King also levied tribute.</p> - -<p>Pliny further states that the Arabs did not steal one -from another, but for fear of loss those employed in the -stores of Alexandria were forced to go naked with the -exception of a clout which was sealed. A mask and a -thick net were thrown over the head.</p> - -<p>To us the practice of anointing the entire body, customary -among the ancients, appears very singular. Old -Egyptian sculptures represent the guests being anointed -at the meal. Among the Jews we find a holy oil with -which Aaron and his sons were anointed to consecrate -them to the priesthood, Moses prescribing for this holy -anointing oil, myrrh, cinnamon, calamus, and oil from -the olive tree. Other persons were prohibited from -imitating or using this holy oil. The anointing of -kings was introduced later on. Though it was prohibited -to imitate and use the holy oil, this prohibition -did not refer to anointing with oil in general.</p> - -<p>That the Greeks also set a high value upon anointing -with oil is plainly seen from Homer. When Telemachus -visited Nestor, Polycaste, Nestor's youngest -daughter, bathed him and anointed him with oil, and -when he was the guest of Menelaus, the maids of the -latter performed the same service for him, while for -Ulysses returning as a beggar, the aged Euryclea prepared -a foot-bath and anointed him.</p> - -<p>By the addition of fragrant substances to the oil, -the sweet-scented ointment, <i>myron</i>, originated. While -the anointing with simple oil evidently served as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> -a hygienic measure after the bath, and especially for -men in the gymnasium, and before a combat, with the -Greeks, ointments were an article of luxury. In -Socrates' time the use of sweet-scented ointments had -reached such an extent, that Xenophon caused him to -speak against it, but, as is the case with all such lectures -against fashion, without the slightest success. In -Athens the luxury was carried so far that the bacchanalians -anointed each part of their body with a special -ointment. The oil extracted from the palm was -thought best adapted to the cheeks and the breasts; the -arms were refreshed with balsam-mint; sweet marjoram -supplied an oil for the hair and eyebrows; and wild -thyme for the knee and neck. Although to us it would -be repugnant to have the entire body anointed, in -Athens it was considered beautiful to be glossy with -ointments. It is said of Demetrius Phalereus, that in -order to appear more captivating, he dyed his hair -yellow, and anointed the face and the rest of his body.</p> - -<p>From the Asiatics and Greeks the Romans also -learned the use of ointments. Pliny cannot say at -what time they were introduced in Rome, but states -that after the conquest of Asia and the defeat of the -King, Antiochus, in the year 565, after the building of -Rome, the censors issued an edict prohibiting the sale of -foreign ointments. However, this edict was of no use, -and the practice spread more and more, Pliny speaking -very bitterly about it. Regarding this extravagance in -ointments, Plutarch says: "Frankincense, cinnamon, -spikenard, and Arabian calamus are mixed together -with the most careful art and sold for large sums. It -is an effeminate pleasure and has spoiled not only the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> -women but also the men, who will not sleep even with -their own wives if they do not smell of ointments and -powders." Plutarch further mentions an incident which -must have created a sensation even in luxurious Rome, -as otherwise it would scarcely have been chronicled for -the benefit of posterity. Nero one day anointed himself -with costly ointments and scattered some of them -over Otho. The next day Otho gave Nero a banquet, -and laid in all directions gold and silver tubes, which -poured forth expensive ointments like water, thoroughly -saturating the guests.</p> - -<p>Directions for preparing ointments are contained in -Theophrastus's work "On Perfumes," in Dioscorides's -"Medica materia," and Pliny's "Historia naturalis." -Dioscorides's receipts are the fullest. According to Pliny, -a distinction was made between the juice and the body, -the latter consisting of the fat oils and the former of the -sweet-scented substances. In preparing the ointments, -the oil together with the perfuming substances were -heated in the water-bath. For instance, rose ointment -was, according to Dioscorides, prepared by mixing -5½ lbs. of bruised <i>Andropogon Schœnanthus</i> with a little -water, then adding 20½ lbs. of oil and heating. After -heating the oil was filtered off, and the petals of one -thousand roses were thrown into the oil, the hands with -which the rose leaves were pressed into the oil being -previously coated with honey. When the whole had -stood for one night, the oil was strained off and when -all impurities had settled, it was brought into another -vessel and fresh rose leaves introduced, the operation -being several times repeated. However, according to -the opinion of the ancient ointment makers, no more<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> -odor was absorbed by the oil after the seventh introduction -of rose leaves. To fix the odor, resins or gums -were added to the ointments.</p> - -<p>A process of distilling volatile oils was also known, -the odoriferous matter being caught by spreading wool -over the heated perfume-substances. The wool was -afterwards subjected to pressure. This process, of -course, involved great loss and was available only for -substances containing much volatile oil.</p> - -<p>Dioscorides also gives directions for making animal fats -suitable for the reception of perfumes. Beef-tallow, deer-fat, -or the marrow of animals was freed from all membranes, -melted together with a little salt in an entirely -new vessel, and then poured into clean water, where it -was washed by rubbing with the hands, the water being -frequently renewed. Then it was boiled with equal -parts of sweet-scented wine, and after taking it from -the fire it was allowed to stand over night. The next -day the cold fat was again boiled in a new vessel, with -sweet-scented wine, this operation being repeated until -the fat had lost every trace of disagreeable odor, when -it was brought in contact with the perfumes.</p> - -<p>The consumption of perfume-substances by the ancient -Romans must have been enormous. The trade of -the ointment makers (<i lang="la">ungentarii</i>) was so extensive that -the large street <i>Seplasia</i> in old Capua was entirely -taken up by it, and the business must have paid well -since the prices realized were very high. However, in -ancient times the business cannot have been very agreeable, -at least not in Greece, as shown by a passage in -Plutarch's Life of Pericles: "We take pleasure in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> -ointments and purple, but consider the dyers and ointment -makers bondsmen and mechanics."</p> - -<p>Red and white paints, in the form of powder as well -as of paste, were extensively used by the Roman ladies. -Chalk and white lead served for white paint, and -minium and carmine for red. Lovers preferred white -paints, a pale color being more becoming to them:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> -<div class="verse">"Palleat omnis amans; hic est</div> -<div class="verse indent2">color aptus amanti."—(<cite>Ovid.</cite>)</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>For black paints for the eyebrows roasted ant eggs -or soot were used.</p> - -<p>The Roman ladies paid as much attention to their -natural, and also false, hair as the fair ones of to-day. -They curled their hair with heated iron instruments, -and perfumed them with fragrant oil. If from age, -sorrow, or other reasons, the hair was no longer black, -it was dyed, and it seems that a considerable number of -hair-dyes were known in Rome, amongst them some -which are still employed to-day, such as green nutshells -and acetate of lead.</p> - -<p>After the Romans had seen the blonde German -maidens, blonde and red hair became the fashion. To -dye the hair blonde sharp alkaline soaps were chiefly -used. However, this or some other hair-dye seems to -have been very injurious, as it caused the hair to come -out. The satirists ridiculed this as well as the wigs, -which were worn by men and women to hide baldness, -or on account of the color which could not be attained -by dyes.</p> - -<p>Depilatories were also known to the Romans, the -agents employed being called <i lang="la">psilothrum</i> and <i lang="la">dropax</i>.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> -They were of vegetable origin, but it is not exactly -known from which plants they were derived.</p> - -<p>For cleaning the teeth the Roman ladies used a dentifrice -which does not seem very inviting to us. It consisted -of a urine imported from Spain (<i lang="la">dens hiberna -defricatus urina</i>). To perfume the breath or to hide its -bad odor, mouth-washes, perfumed with saffron, roses, -etc., were used, or myrrh, mastic from Chios or perfumed -pastilles were chewed.</p> - -<p>We know but little regarding the use of perfumeries -and cosmetics in the Middle Ages. In the wars during -the migrations of the nations, but little thought was -very likely given to them, but as soon as the nations -became again settled and made sufficient progress in -culture, the taste for perfumes and other pleasures of -life no doubt returned. Our knowledge in this respect -is limited to what is contained in the works of physicians -of the first centuries. Later on we find receipts -for cosmetics in the writings of Arabian physicians, -such as Rhazes (end of the 9th to the commencement of -the 10th century), Avicenna (end of the 10th to the -commencement of the 11th century), and Mesuë (11th -century). To the 11th century also belong the works -of the celebrated Trotula, "<i lang="la">De mulierum passionibus</i>," -"<i lang="la">Practica Trotulae mulieris Salernitanae de curis mulierum</i>," -and "<i lang="la">Trotula in utilitatem mulierum</i>," all of which -contain receipts for cosmetics. In the 14th century the -most celebrated surgeon of the Middle Ages, Guy de -Chanlios, did not consider it beneath his dignity to devote -a section of his "Grande Chirurgie" to cosmetics. -However, it was only in the 16th century that perfumes -and cosmetics came again into prominent notice in Italy,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> -which at that time was the country of luxury and art. -Giovanni Marinello,<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> a physician, in 1562 wrote a -work on "Cosmetics for Ladies," which he dedicated -to the ladies Victoria and Isabella Palavicini. In the -preface the author expresses the opinion that it is only -right and pleasing to God to place the gifts bestowed by -him in a proper light and to heighten them. He then -proceeds to give perfumes for various purposes, aromatic -baths to keep the skin young and fresh, means for increasing -the stoutness of the entire body and of separate -limbs, and others for reducing them. He further recommends -certain remedies for making large eyes small, -and small ones large. The chapter on the hair is very -fully treated. To prevent the hair from coming out, -rubbing with oil, and then washing with sorrel and -myrobalan is recommended. For promoting the growth -of the hair, the use of dried frogs, lizards, etc., rubbed -to a powder, is prescribed. Means for making the hair -long and soft and curly are also given, and others -recommended for eyebrows and eyelashes. As depilatories -lime and orpiment are prescribed. Paints are also -classed among general cosmetics. Their use became at -this time more and more fashionable, and not only the -face, but also the breast and neck were painted.</p> - -<p>Catherine of Medici and Margaret of Valois introduced -these arts of the toilet into France. That country -soon became the leader in this respect, and for many -years the greatest luxury in perfumes and cosmetics -prevailed there. The golden age for these articles lasted<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> -from the commencement of the seventeenth to the middle -of the eighteenth century, during which time the -<i lang="fr">mouche</i> or beauty patch also flourished. "There were at -that time hundreds of pastes, essences, cosmetics, a white -balsam, a water to make the face red, another to make a -coarse complexion delicate, one to preserve the fine complexion -of lean persons and again one to make the face -like that of a twenty-year old girl, an <i lang="fr">Eau pour nourir -et laver les teints corrodés</i> and <i lang="fr">Eau de chair admirable -pour teints jaunes et bilieux</i>, <i>etc.</i> Then there were <i lang="fr">Mouchoirs -de Venus</i>, further bands impregnated with wax -to cleanse and smooth the forehead; gold leaf was even -heated in a lemon over a fire in order to obtain a means -which should impart to the face a supernatural brightness. -For the hair, teeth and nails there were innumerable -receipts, ointments, etc. However, of special -importance were the paints, chemical white, blue for the -veins, but, chief of all, the red or rouge, mineral, vegetable, -or cochineal. The application of rouge was at -that time no small affair, it was not only to be rouged, -but the rouge had also to express something—<i lang="fr">Le grand -point est d'avoir un rouge qui dise quelque chose</i>. The -rouge had to characterize its wearer; a lady of rank did -not wear the rouge like a lady of the court, and the rouge -of the wife of the bourgeois was not like either of them -nor like that of the courtesan. At court a more intense -rouge was worn, the intensity of which was still increased -on the day of presentation, it being then <i lang="fr">Rouge -d'Espagne</i> and <i lang="fr">Rouge de Portugal en tasse</i>. It may -seem incredible, but for eight days a violet paint was -used and then for a change <i lang="fr">Rouge de Serkis</i>. Ladies, -when retiring for the night applied a light rouge<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> -(<i lang="fr">un demi rouge</i>), and even small girls wore rouge, such being -the decree of fashion. The ladies dyed their eyebrows -and eyelashes, and powdered their hair, both natural -and false, for, about 1750, they commenced wearing -wigs and chignons. Powdering was done partially for -the purpose of dying the hair after dressing, and partially -for decoration; white, gray, red and fiery red -powders were in vogue."</p> - -<p>To that time fashion also ordained an ever-varying -routine in the employment of perfumes; so that the -royal apartments were one day fragrant with the scent of -the tuberose and the next with that of amber and cloves; -and so on consecutively, each succeeding day bringing a -change of the reigning odor. In that luxurious age the -personal use of perfumes was not confined to the fair -sex, but the effeminate gallants of the day gloried in -perfuming themselves with the favorite scents of their -mistresses or of prominent belles; so that the allegiance -was recognized, not as in more chivalrous times by the -knight wearing the colors of the fair one who had enslaved -him, but by his smelling of the particular odor -which she had consecrated to herself.</p> - -<p>Philip Augustus, in 1190, granted a charter to the -French perfumers, who had formed a guild. This -charter was, in 1357, confirmed by John, and in 1582 -by Henry III., and remained in force until 1636. The -importance of the craft in France is shown by the fact -that under Colbert the perfumers or "<i lang="fr">parfumeurs-gantiers</i>," -as they were called, were granted patents which -were registered in Parliament. In the seventeenth century -Montpellier was the chief seat of the French perfumery -industry; to-day it is Paris, and over fifty<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> -millions of francs' worth of perfumery are annually sold -there. The <i lang="fr">parfumeurs-gantiers</i> had the privilege of -selling gloves of all possible kinds of material, as well -as the leather required for them; they had the further -privilege of perfuming gloves and selling all kinds of -perfumes. Perfumed leather for gloves, purses, etc., -was at that time imported from Spain. This leather -was very expensive and fashionable, but on account -of its penetrating odor its use for gloves was finally -abandoned.</p> - -<p>In England perfumes were not in general use before -the reign of Queen Elizabeth, when they soon became -fashionable. Elizabeth had an especially finely developed -sense of smell and nothing was more repugnant to -her than a disagreeable odor. She had a cloak of perfumed -Spanish leather, and even her shoes were perfumed. -Perfumed gloves were also fashionable. The -city soon imitated the practices of the court, and that an -extravagant use was made of perfumeries and cosmetics is -plainly seen from the works of the authors of that time, -as well as from an act of Parliament passed in 1770. -By the latter it is ordained that any woman, no matter -of what age or rank, be she maid or widow, who deceives -a man and inveigles him into matrimony by the -use of perfumeries, false hair, <i lang="fr">Crépons d'Espagne</i> (a -paint), corsets, hooped petticoats, shoes with high heels, -and false hips, shall suffer the penalty of the law for -procuring, and the marriage shall be null and void.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span></p> - - - - -<div class="chapter"><h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</a></h2></div> - -<p class="subh">THE PERFUME-MATERIALS FOR THE MANUFACTURE -OF PERFUMERY.</p> - - -<p>Most of the perfume-materials employed by the perfumer -are derived from the vegetable kingdom; a few -are of animal origin, whilst some are artificially prepared.</p> - -<p>Of animal substances only four are used, namely: -<i>musk</i>, <i>castor</i> or <i>castoreum</i>, <i>civet</i>, and <i>ambergris</i>; the -separation of their characteristic odoriferous substances -has, however, not yet been accomplished. The odor of -plants is generally due to volatile substances called -<i>volatile</i> or <i>essential oils</i>. Their occurrence is not limited -to special parts, they being found in the flower, seed, -wood, bast, bark, leaves, and root. However, in every -plant the oil occurs chiefly in certain organs, and it -even happens that the oil differs with the part of the -plant whence it is derived. The odors exist already -formed in the living plant, or else are generated, as in -the instance of bitter almonds, by some reaction between -the elements which takes place during fermentation -or distillation.</p> - -<p>From the strength of the odor of a plant no conclusion -can be drawn as to the quantity of volatile oil -present. If this were the case, the hyacinth, for instance, -would contain more oil than the coniferae, whilst<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> -in fact it contains so little that it can be separated only -with the greatest difficulty. The odor does not depend -on the quantity, but on the quality of the oil; a plant -may diffuse but little odor and still contain much volatile -oil. Of the various families of plants, the <i>labiatae</i>, -<i>umbelliferae</i>, and <i>coniferae</i> are richest in volatile oils.</p> - -<p>In every climate plants diffuse odor, those growing in -tropical latitudes being more prolific in this respect than -the plants of colder regions, which, however, yield the -most delicate perfume. Although the East Indies, -Ceylon, Peru, and Mexico afford some of the choicest -perfumes, Central Europe is the actual flower garden -of the perfumer, Grasse, Cannes, and Nice being the -principal places for the production of perfume-materials. -Thanks to the geographical position of these places, the -cultivator, within a comparatively narrow space, has at -his disposal various climates suitable for the most perfect -development of the plants. The <i>Acacia Farnesiana</i> -grows on the seashore, without having to fear frost, -which in one night might destroy the entire crop, while -at the foot of the Alps, on Mount Esteral, the violet -diffuses a much sweeter odor than in the hotter regions, -where the olive and the tuberose reach perfect bloom. -England asserts its superiority in oils of lavender and -peppermint. The volatile oils obtained from plants -cultivated in Mitcham and Hitchin command a considerably -higher price than those from other localities, -this preference being justified only by the delicacy of -their perfume. Cannes is best suited for roses, acacias, -jasmine, and neroli, while in Nimes, thyme, rosemary, -and lavender are chiefly cultivated. Nice is celebrated<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> -for its violets, while Sicily furnishes the lemon and -orange, and Italy the iris and bergamotte.</p> - -<p>The odors exhaled by our own domestic plants -have been but little studied, but the southern as well -as many northern districts of the United States are -well adapted for the cultivation of quite a number of -species of plants which might be made to yield highly -valuable articles of commerce. Among the plants which -might furnish oils for the perfumer's use are, for instance, -the wall flower, the Lilly, lilac and mignonette.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Volatile Oils.</span>—The volatile oils are either fluid -(actual volatile oils) or solid (varieties of camphor) or -solutions of solid combinations in fluid. The latter, on -exposure to low temperatures, separate into two portions, -one solid, called <i>stearoptene</i>, and the other liquid, called -<i>elæoptene</i>. The boiling point of the volatile oils is considerably -higher than that of water, but when heated -with water they pass over with the vapors. Upon -paper, fluid volatile oils produce grease spots, which -differ, however, from those caused by fat oils in that -they gradually disappear at an ordinary temperature, -and rapidly by gentle heating. Most volatile oils are -insoluble, or only with difficulty and sparingly soluble, -in water, but they impart to the latter their odor and -taste. They are readily soluble in alcohol, ether, chloroform, -bisulphide of carbon and petroleum-ether, and -miscible in every proportion with fats and fat oils. By -their solubility in alcohol they differ from most fat oils. -When freshly prepared many volatile oils are colorless, -but soon turn yellow; some, however, show a distinct -color even when fresh. They ignite with greater ease -than fat oils and burn with a fierce smoky flame deposit<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span>ing -a large amount of carbon. They exhibit a great -tendency to absorb oxygen from the air and to gum, the -influence of light promoting the process. In specific -gravity they range from about 0.75 to 1.17, most of them -being specifically lighter than water. Most bodies, -under otherwise equal conditions, show always exactly -the same specific gravity, the variations being so slight -that they may be justly ascribed to errors of observation. -However, one and the same volatile oil frequently shows -such variations in specific gravity, that we are forced to -ascribe this phenomenon to alterations in the constitution -of the oil itself. For the exact determination of the -specific gravity of a volatile oil, it should, therefore, be -subjected to examination immediately after its preparation -from the plant or vegetable substance, which should -be as fresh as possible. The influence of light upon -volatile oils is best shown by the following interesting -experiment: If certain volatile oils are distilled in a -vacuum or over burnt lime in a current of carbonic acid, -it is no longer possible to distinguish, for instance, oil of -lemon from oil of turpentine; however, by again exposing -the oils to the air, they reacquire their characteristic -odor.</p> - -<p>According to their elementary composition the volatile -oils may be divided into three principal divisions:—</p> - -<p>1. Volatile oils free from oxygen, terpene (camphene), -or hydrocarbons.</p> - -<p>2. Oxygenated volatile oils.</p> - -<p>3. Volatile oils containing sulphur.</p> - -<p>On account of the facility with which most of the -volatile oils absorb oxygen, oils originally free from -oxygen are frequently a mixture of hydrocarbons and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> -combinations containing oxygen. The volatile oils -varying so much in their physical as well as their -chemical properties, a suitable classification of them has -thus far been unsuccessful.</p> - -<p>Most of the volatile oils contain a liquid hydrocarbon, -<i>terpene</i>, which is characterized neither by special -taste nor odor, nor is the peculiarity of a volatile oil dependent -on it. In the direct distillation of a volatile -oil, for instance, lemon oil, this hydrocarbon (citrene), -passes first over and can, therefore, be readily separated -from the constituents on which depend the peculiarity of -lemon oil, and which distil over at a higher temperature. -The specific character of an oil is generally due -to the portion of the oil containing oxygen. Hence, -manufacturers have endeavored to free several of the -volatile oils, used for perfumery and the preparation of -food, from the worthless terpene and at the same time -to obtain them in a concentrated form. Carvol is, for -instance, caraway oil freed from carvene (terpene). -These concentrated oils are not only purer and more -agreeable in odor and taste and more readily soluble in -dilute alcohol, but, being more concentrated, an equal -volume of them goes much further than ordinary volatile -oil. In the price lists these oils are designated as -<i>extra strong</i>, <i>patented</i>, <i>concentrated</i>, <i>highly concentrated -oils</i> or <i>essences</i>.</p> - -<p>All the terpenes occurring in the various oils are -combinations having the formula C<sub>10</sub>H<sub>16</sub>, or polymeric -with it, C<sub>15</sub>H<sub>24</sub>, C<sub>20</sub>H<sub>32</sub>, etc. These terpenes exhibiting -certain deviations in regard to their properties, odor, -specific gravity, and boiling points, nearly as many terpenes -as there are volatile oils have been distinguished. -It is, however, very likely that these deviations may be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> -traced back to fortuitous circumstances, for example, to -the admixture of foreign substances occurring together -with the terpenes, and that, by a more accurate examination, -the number of terpenes entitled to be considered -pure chemical combinations will be considerably reduced. -By Wallach's labors, the identity of several terpenes -formerly considered distinct, has already been established, -whilst many others have been found to possess -properties in common.</p> - -<p>According to the nature and quantity of the odoriferous -substances contained in the plants, various methods, -namely, <i>expression</i>, <i>distillation</i>, <i>extraction</i>, <i>maceration</i>, -and <i>absorption</i>, are employed for the purpose of obtaining -them.</p> - -<p><i>Expression.</i>—This is only practicable when the substances -are especially rich in oil and of sufficient softness, -as in the case with the peel of the orange, citron, lemon, -etc. In such instances the material is simply placed -in a linen cloth and subjected to a strong pressure until -it ceases to yield oil. The press may be of any size -according to the quantity to be expressed. For small -quantities it generally consists of an iron vessel, having -a small opening at the bottom so that the oil may flow -out. The material is placed upon a perforated bottom -inside of the vessel and covered with a well-fitting iron -plate, that can be pressed down by means of a screw. -Though the material is fairly exhausted by such a press, -for large operations it is advisable to make use of a -hydraulic press, which is constructed and managed in -exactly the same manner as those used for the expression -of fixed oils.</p> - -<p>By expression a turbid milky fluid is obtained, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> -consists of the volatile oil and aqueous substances. The -latter are a solution of various extractive substances and -salts in water. This fluid, as it runs from the press, is -received in tall, narrow, glass vessels and brought into a -cool place for clarification. This frequently requires -several days, three distinct layers being generally distinguished. -On the bottom is a mucous layer consisting -of cell substances carried along by the liquid bodies. -Over this is a clear fluid consisting of a solution of extractive -substances, vegetable albumen, and salts, and -upon this floats the volatile oil, being specifically the -lightest body, which, by its greater refractive power, can -be clearly distinguished from the aqueous fluid.</p> - -<p>The oil is separated by bringing all that has been -expressed into a bottle provided near the bottom with a -lateral neck closed by a cock. After separating the oil -from the aqueous fluid, the latter is allowed to escape -by opening the cock.</p> - -<p>The oil obtained in this manner is still impure, and -requires further treatment to remove small vegetable -fibres, invisible to the naked eye, which float in them, -and cause them to be somewhat opaque and slightly -opalescent. By their subsequent decomposition they -would also give the oil a disagreeable odor.</p> - -<p>There are two methods of obtaining the oil entirely -clear, viz., filtration and distillation. Filtration is the -cheaper process, but requires special precautions to exclude -the air as much as possible to prevent the oil from -undergoing injurious changes. By arranging the filtering -apparatus so that the oil always comes in contact with -only the same quantity of air, the injurious action of -the oxygen is reduced to a minimum. It is self-evi<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span>dent -that the apparatus should not be placed in the -sun, but in a semi-dark, cool place.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<div class="caption">Fig. 1.</div> -<img src="images/fig_1.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - - -<p>A filter of simple construction, and performing excellent -service, is shown in Fig. 1. It consists of a large -glass bottle, <i>F</i>, hermetically closed by a doubly-perforated -cork. The neck of the glass funnel <i>T</i>, the -upper rim of which is ground smooth, is placed in one -of the holes, and a glass tube, <i>r</i>, bent at a right angle, -is fitted into the second hole. A thick wooden lid, with -a rubber ring on the lower side, is placed upon the -funnel, thus closing it air-tight. In the centre of the -lid is fitted a glass tube, <i>r´</i>, also bent at a right angle, -which is connected with the tube <i>r</i>, by a rubber hose, <i>k</i>. -After the funnel has been provided with filtering paper -and the oil to be filtered, the lid is placed upon it, and -must not be removed, except for the purpose of pouring -more oil into the funnel. The air in the bottle <i>F</i> is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> -displaced by the oil dropping into it, and escapes -through <i>r</i>, <i>k</i> and <i>r´</i> into the funnel, and thus only the -air in the bottle and funnel can act upon the oil.</p> - -<p>The other method for the complete purification of -expressed oil is by rectification or distillation with -water. For this purpose the oil, together with a little -water, is brought into one of the stills described later -on, and the oil distilled over. It is sometimes difficult -to obtain the last portion of the oil, especially with a -still heated by direct fire, and it is therefore preferable -to combine it with a fresh quantity of the same oil to -be distilled.</p> - -<p><i>Distillation.</i>—There are at present two methods in -use. The one is founded upon the direct action of -the heat, the other upon the use of steam. The -first was formerly in general practice, and is still -largely employed in France and England, and to a -limited extent in this country. It is, however, very -deficient in many respects. As the stills must necessarily -be of small capacity, only small quantities can be -distilled at one time, and the oils very rarely possess -the peculiar odor due to them, and sometimes the odor -is even altered. In mixing too little water with the -materials to be extracted, there is danger that empyreumatic -oils will be formed; a large quantity of water, on -the other hand, is of disadvantage, in so far as in case -the perfume-materials contain little oil, only a perfumed -water, but no oil, will be obtained. In order to avoid -these inconveniences, or, at least, to do away with some -of them, another plan was devised. The materials to -be distilled were spread upon sieves, which were suspended -in the upper part of a still, so that they might<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> -be penetrated from below. It is true no scorching is -possible in this case, as was in the other process when -the heating was continued after all the water had evaporated, -and the oil retains its proper color, but by this -method only small quantities can be extracted at a time. -The still generally used for distillation with direct heat -resembles so much an ordinary whiskey still as to need -no further description here.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<div class="caption"><a id="Fig_2"></a>Fig. 2.</div> -<img src="images/fig_2.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>For the accurate determination of the percentage of -volatile oil a vegetable substance will yield, or to obtain -the oil from very costly raw materials, the small glass -apparatus, Fig. 2, is used. The flask <i>A</i>, with a capacity -of up to 5 or 6 quarts, serves for a still. In the -tube <i>t</i>, shaped like the neck of a bottle, is inserted by -means of a cork, a funnel tube, <i>l</i>, reaching to the bottom -of the flask. The neck of the flask passes into the -cooling pipe, which lies in a so-called Liebig cooler. -This consists of a wide-glass tube, <i>C</i>, into the lower end -of which, at <i>h</i>, flows cold water from the reservoir <i>D</i>, -displacing the heated water at <i>g</i>. The lower end of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> -cooling pipe is connected with the neck-shaped tube <i>v</i>, -under which stands the vessel for the reception of the -distillate. To prevent the cracking of the flask, which -might readily happen with the use of direct heat, it is -placed in a vessel filled with sand or water.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<div class="caption">Fig. 3.</div> -<img src="images/fig_3.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>A very good small apparatus for the distillation of -volatile oil is shown in Fig. 3. It is known as a siphon -still. It consists of a double-walled boiler, surmounted -by a still-head, which is provided with a mechanism for -keeping the contents of the boiler in motion. This -stirring apparatus consists of a perpendicular shaft, bearing -a frame work of iron, curved so as to correspond to -the interior shape of the still, and on the outside carrying -a chain which scrapes over the inner surface of the still -while the stirrer is being turned. This may be done<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> -either by hand or by steam. The still having been -charged with the material to be extracted, is filled up -with water to within a few inches of the top of the body -of the still, and the latter is heated by admitting steam. -The vapors arising are conducted to a cooler situated at -a higher level than the still itself, and the condensed -liquid is collected in a receiver, where the oil and water -separate. This receiver is provided with two faucets, -one near the top and the other near the bottom. If the -oil passing over is heavier than water, the excess of the -latter is removed by the upper faucet; if the oil swims -on the water, the lower faucet is regulated so as to -allow the water to escape in about the same ratio as it -enters the receiver. In either case the condensed water -is made to run back into the still, and the loss of oil -is, therefore, greatly reduced.</p> - -<p>Sometimes a single-walled still is used, and distillation -carried on with direct steam. This method is, -however, not suitable where the presence of water is -necessary, for instance, in the production of oil of bitter -almonds.</p> - -<p>A simple way of converting an ordinary still into -use with steam is shown in Fig. 4. For the helmet of -the still <i>A</i> is substituted a cylindrical vessel, <i>B</i>, with -an opening in the bottom. The materials to be distilled -are brought into <i>B</i>, and rest upon a wire bottom -to prevent particles from falling into <i>A</i>. From the -upper portion of <i>B</i> a pipe, <i>R</i>, leads to the condenser. -As may be seen from the illustration, the still <i>A</i> serves -only for the generation of steam. The latter, in passing -through <i>B</i>, heats the contents and absorbs the liberated -oil, the combined vapors passing into the condenser.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"> -<div class="caption">Fig. 4.</div> -<img src="images/fig_4.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>This simple modification of the ordinary still affords -some advantage, the principal being the avoidance of -the condensation of a large quantity of water. This in -itself would not amount to much, but it has to be taken -into consideration that, though volatile oils are only -very sparingly soluble in water, they are nevertheless -soluble in it to such a degree as to impart to it their -characteristic odor and taste. Such aromatized water can -be utilized in the manufacture of liqueurs and perfumery, -but to the manufacturer who restricts himself to -the production of volatile oils alone, this represents a -loss, and it is therefore necessary for him to condense as -little water as possible. And this object can only be -attained by the use of direct steam.</p> - -<p>A simple apparatus for the purpose is shown in Fig. -5. The still <i>b</i>, provided with a helmet, rests free upon<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> -a suitable support. To prevent cooling, it is surrounded -with a wooden jacket, <i>M</i>. The material to be extracted -rests upon a perforated bottom, beneath which enters the -pipe <i>HD</i>, which conducts the steam from the boiler. -For the more uniform distribution of the steam, it is -recommended to let this pipe end in a perforated coil. -The water condensed in the apparatus itself is discharged -through the short pipe <i>H</i>, placed in the lowest -part of the still.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<div class="caption">Fig. 5.</div> -<img src="images/fig_5.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>An improved apparatus for distilling dry substances -by steam has been patented in Germany by Messrs. -Schimmel & Co., of Leipzic. The tall conical column -at the left (Fig. 6) is the still. About eight inches from -the bottom is a perforated diaphragm or false bottom, -upon which the material to be distilled is placed by introducing -it through the still-head. A perforated coil -below the diaphragm projects steam upwards through<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> -the mass, which is occasionally agitated from without -by means of a horizontal stirring apparatus indicated -by the two crosses. Any condensed water which may -run back is converted into steam by the heating coil -at the bottom. Meanwhile, the mass itself is heated -by a long coil lining the body of the still and carrying -steam at a high pressure. Whatever of volatile oil -is carried forward by the steam passes through the still-head -into the cooler on the right, where both oil and -steam are condensed, and from where they flow through -a small funnel tube into three successive receivers, -which are arranged like Florentine flasks, and which -retain the volatile oil that has separated. From the -last receiver the water, which is still impregnated with -oil, enters another reservoir, shown in the illustration -only by dots, and from there it flows into a small -globular still situated underneath; in which, by means<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> -of steam, nearly all the oil still retained is again volatilized -with the steam of the water and both again conducted -to the cooler.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<div class="caption">Fig. 6.</div> -<img src="images/fig_6.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>Attempts have been made to effect the distillation of -volatile oils without the use of steam by means of hot air, -but comparative experiments have shown that less oil -is obtained. With the use of steam, the vegetable -substances swell up by the absorption of water, and thus -afford a free passage to the oil, liberated from the sacs -containing it. With the use of hot air, on the other -hand, the surface of the plant is completely dried and -shrivels to a hard solid mass, which offers considerable -resistance to the process of distillation.</p> - -<p>This injurious effect of hot air can be somewhat -overcome by thoroughly moistening the plants to be distilled, -and allowing the hot air, before entering the still, -to pass through a pipe filled with sponges constantly -kept wet. But this process offers no advantages over -that by steam. The apparatus required is far more -complicated; and, besides, a ventilator has to be provided -for forcing the hot air through the apparatus.</p> - -<p><i>Separation of the oil and water.</i>—As previously -mentioned the specific gravity of most volatile oils is -less than that of water. This behavior is utilized for -the separation of the oil and water, by means of a so-called -Florentine flask (Fig. 7). It consists of a glass -flask provided near the bottom with a pipe, <i>a</i>, rising vertically -to near the neck <i>c</i> of the flask where it is bent -downwards as shown in the illustration. The mixed -liquid of water and oil drips from the cooling pipe into -the flask, and the water <i>w</i>, being specifically heavier, -separates from the oil floating on the top, and gradually<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> -ascends in the pipe <i>a</i>, finally flowing over at <i>d</i>. Oils -specifically heavier than water are caught in receivers -provided with a discharge-pipe near the mouth of the -flask as shown in Fig. 8.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig_7-8.jpg" alt="Fig. 7 and 8" /> -</div> - -<p>The oil delivered from the receivers is, however, still -mixed with some water, dirt, etc., and for their separation -is allowed to stand quietly for some time. The -final separation is effected either by simply pouring off -the oil, especially if larger quantities have to be handled, -or with the assistance of a separator-funnel (Fig. 9). This -consists of the glass-funnel <i>T</i> secured to the stand <i>G</i>, -and provided with a close-fitting lid, <i>P</i>. The fluid is -poured into the funnel, the lid placed in position, and the -whole allowed to rest until the water <i>W</i> is completely -separated from the oil <i>O</i>. The oil is then separated -from the last drops of water by carefully opening the -faucet <i>H</i>.</p> - -<p>Most volatile oils are obtained by distillation, but this<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> -method is not practicable for separating the odoriferous -principle of many of the most sweet-scented and delicate -flowers, partially because the flowers contain too little -oil, and partially because the oil would lose in quality -if obtained by distillation.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<div class="caption">Fig. 9.</div> -<img src="images/fig_9.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p><i>Extraction.</i>—For obtaining the volatile oils by extraction -various solvents such as ether, bisulphide of -carbon, etc., may be employed. Carefully rectified -petroleum-ether is very suitable for the purpose. It -completely evaporates at about 122° F., and when sufficiently -purified does not possess a disagreeable odor. -The process of extraction is briefly as follows: The -material to be extracted is treated in a digester with -petroleum-ether or one of the above-named solvents. -The solution is then drawn off and the solvent evapo<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span>rated -in a still. The recondensed solvent flows immediately -back into the digester and further extracts the -material contained therein. The operation is repeated -until nothing soluble remains. In practice some difficulties -are, however, connected with this process since, -besides the volatile oils, resins, and coloring and extractive -substances are dissolved, which have to be removed, -as well as the last traces of the solvent, as otherwise -the oil would acquire a foreign odor. Further -the solvents mentioned are very volatile and inflammable, -requiring the greatest precautions as regards -fire. For these reasons the extraction process is not -suitable for many purposes, and though at first great -hopes were entertained in regard to it, its use is -limited to substances with a large content of volatile -oil.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<div class="caption">Fig. 10.</div> -<img src="images/fig_10.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>For extraction on a small scale, the apparatus, Fig. 10, -is a very suitable one. It is especially adapted for -manufacturers of perfumery, who -wish to extract fresh flowers. It -consists of a cylindrical vessel, <i>C</i>, -of tin plate, provided on the bottom -with the stop-cock <i>a</i> and the -pipe <i>b</i>. The lid <i>D</i> fits into a -gutter, <i>R</i>, running around the -edge of <i>C</i>, and is hermetically -closed by water in <i>R</i>. The cylinder -is filled with the vegetable -substance to be extracted, and -sufficient petroleum-ether or bisulphide of carbon to -cover it, poured in. The lid is then adjusted, the gutter -<i>R</i> filled with water and the apparatus allowed to stand<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> -quietly for forty minutes. To remove the fluid from -the cylinder, the faucet <i>o</i> in the lid is first opened, and -then the stop-cock <i>a</i>; the fluid escapes at <i>b</i>, and is -caught in a well-closed vessel. The operation may be -repeated once or twice, or the vegetable substance is -pressed out by means of a wooden plate, and the apparatus -filled anew. The faucet <i>h</i> serves for emptying -the gutter <i>R</i>.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<div class="caption">Fig. 11.</div> -<img src="images/fig_11.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>Extraction being finished, the cock <i>o</i> is opened, and -then the cock <i>a</i>, and the fluid allowed to run into the -flask of the distilling apparatus (<a href="#Fig_2">Fig. 2</a>). For working -on a large scale, the flask is, however, too small, and is -suitably replaced by a bottle-shaped tin vessel, <i>F</i> (Fig. -11), the conical cover <i>D</i> of which is secured by means -of the rubber ring <i>R</i> and iron screw-clamps, <i>S</i>. A -bent glass tube fitted into the cover is connected with -the cooling-pipe of the apparatus shown in <a href="#Fig_2">Fig. 2</a>. But -the oils prepared by extraction are not sufficiently purified -by mere rectification, as traces of the solvent adhere -tenaciously to them, which can only be removed by passing -a current of air through the oil. But contact with air -has an injurious effect upon the -delicacy of the odor. For expensive -oils a current of air -should therefore never be used, -but one of pure carbonic acid. -Fig. 12 shows a suitable apparatus -for the purpose. The -large bottle <i>A</i>, filled half full -with pieces of white marble, is -closed with a doubly-perforated -cork; through one of the holes -is inserted a funnel-tube, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> -through the other a short tube bent at a right angle. -The latter is connected with another tube which reaches -to the bottom of the vessel <i>B</i>, in which is also inserted -a tube open in the bottom, and a short tube bent at a -right angle. Alongside <i>B</i> stands another vessel, <i>C</i>, -arranged in the same manner. The tube leading from -<i>C</i> is connected with a tin pipe, <i>D</i>, with a rose-like expansion -on its lower end. This pipe is inserted in the -glass balloon containing the volatile oil. Finally, a -pipe leads to the flask <i>F</i>, filled with water.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<div class="caption">Fig. 12.</div> -<img src="images/fig_12.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>To put the apparatus in operation, strongly diluted -hydrochloric acid is poured through the funnel-tube -upon the pieces of marble in <i>A</i>, which causes the development -of a current of carbonic acid. But as the -latter carries along water and hydrochloric acid, it has -to be freed from them before coming in contact with -the volatile oil. The vessels <i>B</i> and <i>C</i> serve for the purpose. -<i>B</i> is half filled with water, while <i>C</i> contains -strong sulphuric acid. In <i>B</i> the hydrochloric acid carried -along with the current of carbonic acid is retained,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> -while the water is fixed on the sulphuric acid in <i>C</i>. -The current of carbonic acid passing out from <i>C</i> is perfectly -pure, and enters the volatile oil through the fine -perforations in the pipe <i>D</i>. It absorbs the traces of -solvent still adhering to the oil, and finally passes out -through the water in the bottle <i>F</i>.</p> - -<p>Volatile oils obtained by extraction, and purified by -a current of carbonic acid, will keep for years without -undergoing alteration, if placed immediately in hermetically -closed vessels and stored in a dark place. Oils -purified by a current of air always become somewhat -thickly fluid by storing, and partially lose their fine -odor, which is due to the oxygen absorbed during the -process.</p> - -<p>For the extraction of oil on a larger scale, the apparatus -shown in Fig. 13 is very suitable. It consists of -two principal parts, the actual extracting vessel <i>E</i>, and -the still <i>B</i>. The extracting vessel <i>E</i> sits in a vat containing -cold water, <i>W</i>, the arrangement being such that -the heated water can be removed and replaced by cold. -The still <i>B</i> sits in a boiler, <i>K</i>, filled with hot water.</p> - -<p>The apparatus is charged as follows: The conical -head <i>C</i> of the extracting vessel <i>E</i> is unscrewed and its -connection at <i>H</i> with the pipe <i>R</i> loosened. The extracting -vessel is then charged with the vegetable substance, -the head <i>C</i> replaced, and the connection with -the pipe <i>R</i> restored. The cocks <i>H</i><sub>2</sub> and <i>H</i><sub>4</sub> are then -opened, and the required quantity of solvent is brought -into the still. Both cocks are then closed, and the cocks -<i>H</i> and <i>H</i><sub>1</sub> opened. The water in the boiler is then -heated until the contents of the still commence to boil. -The vapor of the solvent ascends through the pipe <i>R</i>;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> -on entering the extracting vessel <i>E</i> it is condensed, and -after falling as a spray upon the material to be extracted, -finally returns impregnated with volatile oil to the still -<i>B</i>. Here the solvent is revaporized, and passes again -through the material in the extracting vessel, while the -extracted oil remains in the still. During the boiling -of the solvent the extracting vessel must be suitably -cooled by the constant admission of cold water.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<div class="caption">Fig. 13.</div> -<img src="images/fig_13.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>When extraction is finished, the cocks <i>H</i> and <i>H</i><sub>1</sub> are -closed, and the cock <i>H</i><sub>2</sub>, which is connected with a cooling -worm, is opened. The solvent is then evaporated, -and regained by condensation. The oil is discharged, -from the still through a pipe in the bottom provided -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span>with the cock <i>H</i><sub>3</sub>.</p> - -<p>The apparatus may also be so arranged that the still -<i>B</i> is connected with two extracting vessels which are -used alternately, while the contents of one are being extracted -the other is emptied and refilled.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<div class="caption">Fig. 14.</div> -<img src="images/fig_14.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>For working on a very large scale, Heyl's extracting -apparatus, shown in Fig. 14, is very suitable. It consists -of a battery of four or more cast iron or sheet iron -cylinders, <i>A</i><sub>1</sub> to <i>A</i><sub>4</sub>, communicating with each other and -surrounded by steam jackets. The extracting vessels -are so arranged that they can be emptied by tilting, -which is rather inconvenient, as all the pipes have to -be unscrewed. In each cylinder close above the bottom -is a perforated plate covered with fine wire-gauze, upon -which the material to be extracted is placed. The -cylinder is filled to the top, and, after placing a similar -plate upon it, the upper opening is closed by a lid suspended -to a crane. The cylinder, as well as the lid, is -provided with a broad flange, between which is placed -a hemp tissue firmly pressed together by 12 clamps to -serve for packing. After filling the cylinders with the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> -material to be extracted and arranging the packing, the -solvent (bisulphide of carbon) is conducted from a reservoir -through the principal pipe, <i>B</i>, to the extracting -vessels, and is introduced into <i>A</i><sub>2</sub> by opening the cock -<i>C</i><sub>2</sub>, which communicates with the pipe <i>B</i>. The bisulphide -of carbon passes through the bent pipe <i>D</i><sub>1</sub>, enters -through the cock <i>E</i><sub>2</sub>, below the false bottom of the -cylinder <i>A</i><sub>2</sub>, and, after penetrating the mass and filling -the cylinder, runs through the cock <i>C</i><sub>2</sub> of the bent pipe -<i>D</i><sub>2</sub>, and the cock <i>E</i><sub>3</sub> into the cylinder <i>A</i><sub>3</sub>, reaching the -fourth cylinder in the same manner through the cock -<i>C</i><sub>3</sub>, the pipe <i>D</i><sub>3</sub>, and the cock <i>E</i><sub>4</sub>. From the last cylinder -it passes as a thoroughly saturated oil solution into -a reservoir, in which a vacuum has been created to promote -the circulation of the fluid in the entire apparatus. -After a quantity of oil solution corresponding to the -contents of the cylinder <i>A</i><sub>4</sub> has arrived, the cock <i>G</i><sub>4</sub> is -closed and the cock <i>C</i><sub>4</sub> opened, whereby the cylinder -<i>A</i><sub>4</sub> is connected with <i>A</i><sub>1</sub> by the bent pipe <i>D</i><sub>4</sub> and the -cock <i>E</i><sub>1</sub>.</p> - -<p>After the exhaustion of the contents of the cylinder -<i>A</i><sub>2</sub>, which is recognized by means of the glass tube <i>H</i><sub>2</sub> -placed on <i>D</i><sub>2</sub> by the fluid running off being colorless, the -cocks <i>C</i><sub>1</sub> and <i>E</i><sub>2</sub> are closed, and <i>C</i><sub>2</sub> and <i>E</i><sub>3</sub> opened, whereby -the solvent runs into <i>A</i><sub>3</sub>, and from there to <i>A</i><sub>4</sub> and <i>A</i><sub>1</sub>; -<i>A</i><sub>2</sub> being omitted. To effect this omission, and at the -same time not to prevent the introduction of bisulphide -of carbon, <i>C</i><sub>1</sub>, <i>C</i><sub>2</sub>, <i>C</i><sub>3</sub>, and <i>C</i><sub>4</sub>, are so-called two-way -cocks, which, when placed in one position, connect the -principal pipe <i>B</i> with the branch pipes <i>D</i>, but interrupt -a further flow through the principal pipe <i>B</i>; while in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> -the other position they close the pipes <i>D</i> and open the -principal pipe <i>B</i>.</p> - -<p>The cylinder <i>A</i><sub>2</sub> is, however, still filled with the solvent -and material saturated with it. To remove the solvent, -the discharge cock <i>K</i><sub>2</sub> on the bottom of the cylinder -is opened, which communicates with the discharge -pipe <i>J</i>, through which the bisulphide of carbon is conducted -into a reservoir. The discharge is promoted by -opening the cock <i>M</i><sub>2</sub>, connected with the pipe <i>L</i>, and -the admittance of compressed air, which displaces the -liquid solvent. After the flow of the latter has ceased, -the steam cocks on the jacket <i>O</i><sub>2</sub> and the cylinder <i>P</i><sub>2</sub> are -opened under constant admission of air and simultaneous -introduction of steam through the pipe <i>N</i> into the upper -part of the cylinder.</p> - -<p>The solvent (bisulphide of carbon) converted into -vapor by the heat, is conducted together with the -aqueous vapor, by the admission of air through the cock -<i>K</i><sub>2</sub>, the pipe <i>J</i>, and a cooling pipe placed between the -extracting vessels and the reservoir, and collected in a -reservoir to be re-used.</p> - -<p>On account of the great volatility of bisulphide of -carbon, considerable loss would, however, be incurred -by the above-mentioned admission of air. To avoid -this, the reservoir serving for the reception of the condensed -bisulphide of carbon and aqueous vapor is closed, -and connected by a pipe with a long, narrow, horizontal -cylinder half filled with oil, and provided with a fan-shaft. -The vapors of bisulphide of carbon entering the -cylinder from the reservoir are absorbed, together with -the air by the oil, the surface of which is constantly agitated -by the fan-shaft, while the air, rendered entirely<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> -inodorous, passes out at the other end. The bisulphide -of carbon is finally separated from the oil by distillation -and again used.</p> - -<p>After the cylinder <i>A</i><sub>2</sub> is sufficiently steamed, it is -emptied and again charged with material and connected -with the cylinder <i>A</i><sub>1</sub>; while the other cylinders undergo -the same manipulations described above.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<div class="caption">Fig. 15.</div> -<img src="images/fig_15.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>The saturated oil solution is subjected to distillation, -which is readily effected in Heyl's apparatus, -Fig. 15. The lower part of the still <i>A</i> of boiler -plate is surrounded by the steam-jacket <i>B</i>, into which -steam is admitted through <i>C</i> and the condensed water -discharged through <i>D</i>. The concentrated oil solution -runs from a reservoir, standing at a higher level<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> -through the pipe <i>E</i> into the still, the admission of a -sufficient quantity being indicated by the gauge <i>F</i>. The -bisulphide of carbon brought to the boiling point (114° -F.) by the steam introduced into the jacket, vaporizes -quickly; the vaporization being still more accelerated -by revolving the stirrer <i>H</i>, by means of the crank <i>G</i>. -The vapors of bisulphide of carbon escape through -four openings in the upper part of the still, into a -capacious worm, the lower part of which enters, -under water, a reservoir.</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding the volatility of bisulphide of carbon, -the oil retains a portion of it so tenaciously that a -complete separation cannot be accomplished by the -introduction of steam into the jacket <i>B</i>. Hence, in -order to vaporize the last traces of the solvent, air is -introduced into the oil through the pipe <i>K</i>, the lower -end of which is perforated. After completed distillation -the oil is discharged through <i>L</i>.</p> - -<p><i>Maceration or infusion.</i>—This process is employed -for flowers with an inconsiderable content of volatile oil -or whose odoriferous substance would suffer decomposition -or alteration by distillation. The process is -founded on the affinity of odoriferous substances for -fatty bodies which, when impregnated with them, are -called <i>pomades</i>. These are afterwards made to yield the -aroma to strong alcohol, so that finally there is obtained -a solution of the volatile oil in alcohol from which the -pure oil is obtained by distilling off the alcohol. The -fat used, olive oil, lard, etc., should be entirely neutral, -<i>i. e.</i>, free from every trace of acid. The fats are purified -by treating them several times in the heat with -weak soda-lye and then washing carefully with water<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> -until the last traces of the lye are removed, and the fat -shows no alkaline or acid reaction.</p> - -<p>With the use of olive oil the so-called "<i lang="fr">Huiles -antiques</i>" are obtained, which are merely solutions of -volatile oils in the fixed oil. By the use of lard, etc., -the genuine <i>pomades</i> are obtained, which are directly -used as expensive articles of perfumery, but in the -factories serve as a starting point for the preparation of -volatile oils.</p> - -<p>The old process of maceration, which is still in use -in some parts of France, is as follows: A certain quantity -of fat is placed in an enameled iron or porcelain -pan provided with a water or steam bath. When the -fat is melted, the freshly gathered flowers from which -the aroma is to be extracted are thrown in and left to -digest for from twelve to twenty-four hours, the fat being -kept fluid and stirred frequently. When the flowers are -completely exhausted, the fat is strained from them into -fresh pots, in which it is again macerated with fresh -flowers as before. This operation is repeated ten to -fifteen times until the pomade has acquired the desired -strength.</p> - -<p>Experience, however, has shown that volatile oils -prepared by this process possess a finer odor the shorter -the time the flowers remain in contact with the fat. -Piver has devised an apparatus which reduces the -time of maceration to the shortest period possible. The -kettle to the left, Fig. 16, supplies the fat heated to the -proper temperature, which circulates slowly through the -macerating tank, in which a constant temperature of -149° F. is maintained by means of a steam pipe. The -macerating tank is divided into compartments, in which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> -baskets containing the vegetable substance to be extracted -are suspended. The basket on the left contains -the substance which has passed through all the compartments; -it is from time to time removed, filled with -fresh substance, and then attached to the right, the -other baskets being moved to the next compartment to -the left. In this way the fresh substance has to traverse -each compartment from right to left, while the fat flows -slowly from left to right, and saturated with the perfume -of the substance collects in the tank on the extreme -right.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<div class="caption">Fig. 16.</div> -<img src="images/fig_16.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>Maceration is employed for the flowers of the orange -(<i>citrus aurantum</i>), of the mock orange (<i>Philadelphus -coronarius</i>), of the acacia (<i>acacia Farnesiana</i>), of the -violet (<i>viola odorata</i>), of the mignonette (<i>réséda odorata</i>), -etc.</p> - -<p>The process of <i>absorption</i>, or "<i lang="fr">enfleurage</i>," as it is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> -called by the French, is chiefly made use of for procuring -the odoriferous principle of very delicate flowers, -the delicious odor of which would be greatly modified, -if not entirely spoiled, by the application of heat. The -older apparatus employed for the purpose consists of a -number of shallow wooden frames of about 15×18 -inches, inclosing at half their depth a sheet of glass. -The edges of the frame rise about an inch above each -surface of the glass, and, being flat, the frames stand -securely upon one another, forming often considerable -stacks. These frames are called "<i lang="fr">chassis</i>," those just -described being termed "<i lang="fr">chassis aux vitres</i>," or "<i lang="fr">chassis -aux pomades</i>," to distinguish them from a different -form, which is used where oil has to be submitted to -the process of absorption. The process in the case of -pomade is as follows: Each sheet of glass is uniformly -coated with a thin layer of purified grease, care being -taken that the grease does not come in contact with the -woodwork of the frames. The flowers are then thinly -sprinkled, or rather laid, one by one, upon the surface of -the fat, where they are allowed to remain one or two -days, when they are removed and replaced by fresh -ones. The operation is thus continued for twenty-five -or thirty days, until the fat is saturated with aroma. -The frames charged with fat and flowers are stacked -one upon the other, forming, in fact, a number of little -rectangular chambers.</p> - -<p>For <i>perfuming oils</i> a metal sieve, Fig. 17, is substituted -for the glass plate. Upon the sieve a piece of -thick cotton cloth saturated with oil is laid, and upon -this the flowers are scattered, and left there until fresh -ones have to be substituted. The operation is repeated<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> -until the oil is sufficiently impregnated with aroma, when -the cloth is subjected to pressure and the expressed oil -filtered.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<div class="caption">Fig. 17.</div> -<img src="images/fig_17.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>This process is very tedious, requiring much labor -and a long time for the impregnation of the fat or oil, -but, notwithstanding its faults, it is still pursued to a -great extent, some French firms using 3000 such frames -during the season.</p> - -<p>With the apparatus, shown in Fig. 18, the process of -absorption can, however, be conducted with very little -expense of labor and time. It has the further advantage -that the flowers do not come in direct contact with the -fat, whereby a saving of the latter is effected, and it is -less liable to rancidity.</p> - -<p>The apparatus consists of a tall wooden box provided -with doors which can be hermetically closed. In the -box are placed upon brackets a number of glass plates, -<i>g</i>, so arranged one above the other that, for instance, -those with uneven numbers are on the left side, leaving -an open space to the right, while those with even numbers -are arranged on the right side with an open space -to the left.</p> - -<p>From the bottom of the box a pipe passes into a sheet-iron -cylinder, <i>K´</i>, filled loosely with flowers, and pro<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span>vided -with lateral openings, <i>O</i> and <i>O´</i>. From the lid -of the box <i>K</i> ascends a pipe, <i>e</i>, which is connected with -a small ventilating apparatus kept in motion by a clockwork -and weights. This ventilator when in motion -sucks a current of air through the apparatus. The air -enters the cylinder <i>K´</i> at <i>O</i>, and after ascending through -the flowers and becoming impregnated with the vapors -of the volatile oil enters through the opening <i>O´</i> into -the box <i>K</i> and, in passing in the direction indicated by -arrows, over the plates coated with fat, yields its aroma -to them.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<div class="caption">Fig. 18.</div> -<img src="images/fig_18.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>Another apparatus for the same purpose, devised by -Piver, is shown in Fig. 19. The fat is converted into<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> -thin macaroni-like threads and brought upon wire gauze -stretched in frames. The flowers to be extracted are -piled upon tinned metallic plates, and the trays containing -the fat and the flowers are placed in an air-tight -chamber arranged as shown in the illustration. The air -in the chamber is made to circulate to and fro by the -working of a bellows with which the apparatus is provided, -whereby the fat is caused to absorb the odor of -the flowers very rapidly and is less liable to rancidity.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<div class="caption">Fig. 19.</div> -<img src="images/fig_19.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span></p> - -<p>The absorption process is employed for the flowers of -the jasmine (<i>jasminum oderatissimum</i>), the mignonnette -(<i>réséda odorata</i>), the violet (<i>viola tricolor</i>), the tuberose -(<i>polianthes tuberosa</i>), etc.</p> - -<p><i>Storage of volatile oils.</i>—In storing volatile oils, they -should be carefully protected from light and air. Some -oils become darker on exposure to light, while others, -for instance, lemon oil, become colorless. Most volatile -oils, as previously mentioned, absorb oxygen from the -air with avidity and combine chemically with it. -Thinly-fluid oils become perceptibly more thickly-fluid -and finally even rigid, the product of oxidation being a -resinous body. Some volatile oils containing aldehydes -are converted, by the absorption of oxygen, into acids, -cinnamic acid being, for instance, formed in cinnamon -oil, and benzoic acid in oil of bitter almonds.</p> - -<p>To prevent evaporation, as well as the above-mentioned -effects of light and air, the volatile oils should -be preserved in not too large glass bottles kept as full -as possible, and closed with a good cork, over which -it is best to tie a piece of bladder. The bottles -should be stored in a cool, shady place. The preservation -of the oils is assisted by the addition of 0.5 to 1 per -cent. of anhydrous alcohol.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span></p> - - - - -<div class="chapter"><h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</a></h2></div> - -<p class="subh">TESTING VOLATILE OILS.</p> - - -<p>Volatile oils are much adulterated, the adulterations -consisting chiefly in mixing an expensive oil with a -cheaper one and with alcohol; more rarely with chloroform -and fat oils. To these adulterations, which have -been common for many years, has recently been added -the previously mentioned hydrocarbon called terpene -or camphene, which is separated in the preparation of -concentrated oils.</p> - -<p>For the recognition of the quality of a volatile oil, -serve first of all its physical properties, especially its -color, odor and taste. The specific gravity varies too -much and is not always a sufficient criterion. Reagents -can only be employed with a few oils. The chemical -detection of adulterations is rendered especially difficult -by the fact, that most of the volatile oils form a mixture -of terpenes with other combinations, in which the separate -constituent parts do not appear in fixed, but in -changeable proportions, and in which the constituents -themselves suffer alteration by storing, air and light.</p> - -<p><i>Odor and taste</i> are so characteristic for every volatile -oil as to suffice in most cases. For testing as to odor, -bring a drop of the oil to be examined upon the dry -palm of one hand and for some time rub with the other, -whereby the odor is more perceptibly brought out. To<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> -determine the taste, vigorously shake one drop of the oil -with 15 to 20 grammes of distilled water and then test -with the tongue.</p> - -<p>An adulteration with <i>fat oil</i> (poppy oil, castor oil) may -be recognized as follows: Place a drop of the suspected -oil upon blotting paper and expose it to the heat of the -water bath. If it evaporates completely and no stain is -perceptible, the oil is pure. But frequently a transparent -stain remains with old oils without their being adulterated, -which is due to the resin formed by the absorption -of oxygen and remaining dissolved in the oil. In -this case a transparent ring is generally formed by the -concentration of the resin on the edges of the stain. If -no tangible results are obtained by this test, pour a few -cubic centimeters of the oil upon a watch-crystal and -heat it very slowly upon a piece of sheet-iron, until all -the odor has disappeared. If the watch-crystal becomes -empty in a short time, nothing but volatile oil -was present; but if a viscous residue remains, this may -consist either of fatty oil or resin, or of both. Treat the -residue with strong alcohol; if it dissolves it may be -resin or castor oil. Dilute the solution with much -water; a white flocculent turbidity indicates resin; the -separation of an oily liquid, after standing, castor oil. If -the residue remains undissolved, it consists of a fatty oil, -generally oil of almond or olive.</p> - -<p>The presence of castor oil can be accurately determined -by bringing the residue from the watch-crystal -into a test-tube by means of a glass-rod, and compounding -it with a few drops of nitric acid. A strong -development of gas takes place, after the cessation of -which, solution of carbonate of soda is added as long as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> -there is any sign of effervescence. If the added oil was -castor oil, the contents of the test-tube will show a -peculiar odor due to œnanthylic acid formed by the action -of nitric acid upon castor oil.</p> - -<p>Another method of establishing the presence of fat oil -consists in mixing the suspected oil with eight times its -quantity of 90 per cent. alcohol (specific gravity 0.823). -If the oil is unadulterated a clear solution is formed; if -it contains fat oil, the latter remains undissolved. The -presence of castor oil, which of the fat oils is chiefly -used for adulteration, is, however, not shown by this -method, it being also soluble in alcohol.</p> - -<p>A permanent stain upon the paper may, however, -also be formed by fresh oils obtained by expression from -the respective parts of the plant. Thus, lemon oil obtained -by expression from the peel, and which has a far -more agreeable odor than that produced by distillation, -always leaves behind a slight grease-stain.</p> - -<p><i>Detection of alcohol or spirit of wine.</i>—Independent -of the alcohol added to assist the preservation of some -oils, adulteration with alcohol frequently occurs, especially -in expensive oils. With a content of not more -than 3 per cent. of alcohol, it suffices to allow one to -two drops of the suspected oil to fall into water. In -the presence of alcohol, the drop becomes either immediately -surrounded with a milky zone, or it becomes -turbid or whitish after being for some time in contact -with the water. Dragendorff's test is based upon the -fact that oils, which are hydrocarbons, suffer no change -by the addition of sodium (ten drops of oil and a small -chip of sodium), while oils containing hydrocarbons and -oxygenated oils cause with sodium a slight evolution of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> -hydrogen gas, and suffer but a slight change during the -first five to ten minutes of the reaction. If, however, -the oil is adulterated with alcohol, not only a violent -evolution of hydrogen gas takes place, but the oil in a -short time becomes brown or dark brown, thickly fluid -or rigid.</p> - -<p>The detection of alcohol by means of fuchsine, which -has been frequently recommended, requires special precautions. -It must first be ascertained that the oil is free -from acids and water; if such is not the case, they must -be removed by means of caustic potash. After settling, -bring, by means of a dry pipette, about five cubic centimeters -of the oil into a dry test-tube about ten millimeters -in diameter, without moistening the walls of the -upper half of the tube. Then bring, by means of a -paper gutter, a few milligrammes of coarsely-powdered -fuchsine into the dry part of the obliquely held tube, at -a distance of one centimeter from the oil. Now heat -gradually over a lamp until the tube begins to tarnish. -With pure oil no evaporation is observed, but if the oil -contains only 0.1 per cent. of alcohol, every speck of -fuchsine will, after heating to boiling and setting aside, -be surrounded by a stain produced by the alcoholic -solution. The chief requirement for this test is that the -oil be free from water. If such is not the case, vapors will -be observed, which condense in the upper portion of the -test-tube, and dissolve fuchsine, and, after flowing back, -sink below the oil with a crackling noise. If the oil -contains alcohol, the condensing vapors dissolve fuchsine -with greater ease, and in flowing back mix without -crackling.</p> - -<p>Hager's tannin test is very reliable. Bring into a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> -test-tube 5 to 10 drops of the oil to be examined, add a -piece of tannin the size of a pea, shake so that the -tannin is moistened by the oil, and let the whole stand -at a temperature of 59° to 68° F. In most volatile -oils tannin is insoluble, and, if the oil is pure, floats for -days on the surface without change. If, however, the -oil contains alcohol, the tannin absorbs the latter, according -to the quantity present, in 3 to 48 hours, and forms -with it a more or less transparent, viscous, tough, or -smeary mass resembling a soft resin, which settles on -the bottom, and adheres so firmly to it, as well as to -the sides of the tube, that it cannot be moved by shaking. -The mass may be examined as to its consistency -with a knitting needle. Traces of moisture in the oil -are not detrimental to the test, the tannin mass separating -in the form of a hyaline mass only in few oils, and -if this mass is tested with the knitting needle it will be -found not tough or smeary, but hard, and may sometimes -be divided into small grains. With oil of bitter -almonds, cassia oil, and some oils of clove, as well as -volatile oil containing an acid, the tannin test is not -available. The first two oils even dissolve tannin, and -large quantities of it, if they contain alcohol.</p> - -<p>The above-mentioned oils may, however, be rendered -fit for the tannin test by mixing them with double their -volume of benzine or petroleum-ether, and allowing the -mixture to stand for two or three days. If, however, -the oils contain much alcohol, the tannin is dissolved. -The use of powdered tannin is not advisable, because it -generally deposits in a thin layer on the bottom, and its -alteration is not so perceptible. If, for practical reasons, -a content of 0.5 per cent. anhydrous alcohol might be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> -accepted as permissible in a volatile oil, the tannin test -would have to be so modified as to mix 10 drops of -the oil with a piece of tannin the size of two peas, -and allow the whole to stand for one hour. In this -time the above-mentioned content of alcohol would yield -no result.</p> - -<p><i>Detection of chloroform.</i>—An adulteration with chloroform, -if moderate, cannot always be detected by the -odor and taste. In most cases, chloroform will considerably -increase the specific gravity of the oil. Bring -into a test-tube 15 drops of the suspected oil, 45 to 90 -drops of alcohol, and 30 to 40 drops of dilute sulphuric -acid. After thorough shaking, add 2 or 3 shavings of -zinc sheet and heat until a vigorous evolution of hydrogen -takes place. After again shaking, set the whole -aside, and heat again when the evolution of gas becomes -weaker. This heating and gentle shaking of the fluid is -several times repeated. After 20 to 25 minutes, compound -the fluid with an equal volume of cold distilled -water, shake vigorously and filter through a paper-filter -moistened with water. Strongly acidulate the filtrate -with nitric acid and compound with nitrate of silver -solution. If chloroform is present, turbidity or a precipitate -of chloride of silver appears.</p> - -<p><i>Detection of benzine.</i>—An adulteration with benzine -can be readily detected only in oils specifically heavier -than water. The separation of benzine is effected by -distillation from a small glass flask in the water bath. -The distillate together with an equal volume of nitric -acid of 1.5 specific gravity is gently heated in a test-tube. -A too vigorous reaction is modified by cooling in -cold water, and a too sluggish action quickened by gentle<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> -heating (dipping in warm water). If the mixture has a -yellow color, dilute it with water, shake with ether, -mix the decanted ethereal solution with alcohol and hydrochloric -acid, add some zinc and place the whole in a -lukewarm place to convert the nitrobenzol formed into -aniline. After evolution of hydrogen is done, neutralize -with potash lye, shake, take off the layer of ether, let the -latter evaporate and add to the residue a few drops of -calcium chloride solution. If benzine is present, a -blue-violet color reaction takes place.</p> - -<p>Adulterations with alcohol, chloroform, and benzine -are quantitatively determined by bringing a weighed -quantity of the oil into a glass flask so that it occupies -about four-fifths of the volume of the flask. Place -upon the flask a cork through which has been passed a -glass-tube bent at a right angle and provided with a -cylindrical glass vessel serving as a receiver and heating -in the water bath. If the distance from the level of the -oil to the angle of the glass tube in which it inclines -downwards, amounts, for instance, to 4.72 inches, and -the neck of the flask up to its angle is 2.75 inches high -outside of the direct effect of the heat of the water bath, -only the above-mentioned adulterants distill over, while -the vapor of the volatile oil condenses at a height of 2.75 -inches and flows back into the flask. The distillate is -weighed and examined as to its derivation. First add -one cubic centimeter of it to two or three cubic centimeters -of potassium acetate solution of specific gravity -1.197 and shake moderately. If a clear mixture results, -alcohol alone is present. If, however, the mixture is -not clear, and the distilled fluid sinks down and collects -on the bottom of the test-tube, chloroform is very likely<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> -present, and if it remains floating upon the acetate solution, -benzine. Next bring two to three centimeters of -the distillate into a test-tube and add a piece of sodium -metal, the size of a pea. If violent foaming, <i>i. e.</i>, an -evolution of gas, takes place, alcohol is certainly -present, and possibly also chloroform and benzine -towards which sodium is indifferent. However, in the -presence of benzine, the sodium solution would be -colorless, and in the presence of chloroform, yellowish -and turbid. In case the sodium produces no reaction -and alcohol is, therefore, not present, add an equal volume -(two to three cubic centimeters) of anhydrous alcohol, -and after moderately shaking allow the solution of -the sodium and the evolution of gas to proceed, whereby -benzine produces a nearly colorless, turbid fluid, and -chloroform a yellowish, milky one. Now dilute the -fluid with an equal or double volume of water, shake -and allow the mixture to stand quietly. In the presence -of benzine a colorless, turbid layer collects on the bottom -of the fluid, while that collecting in the presence -of chloroform is yellowish. In the latter case, <i>i. e.</i>, in the -presence of chloroform, the aqueous filtrate yields with -lead acetate solution a white precipitate (lead chloride -and lead hydroxide). The adulterant having thus been -recognized, further particulars are learned from the -specific gravity of the oil as well as of the distillate.</p> - -<p>Adulterations with <i>terpenes</i> or <i>terpene-like fluids</i>, such -as are gained in the preparation of concentrated or -patent oils, are difficult to recognize. They may be -detected by the specific gravity, the terpenes being, as -a rule, specifically lighter, their specific gravity varying -between 0.840 and 0.870.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span></p> - -<p>The detection of <i>adulterations with volatile oils of a -lower quality</i> is very difficult, if not led to it by the odor -and taste. Many methods for establishing such adulterations -have been proposed, of which the following are -the most important:—</p> - -<p>I. <i>Test with iodine.</i>—This test is based upon the fact -that some oils violently detonate with iodine, while -others develop heat and vapors, and others again remain -indifferent. For this test pour upon about 0.19 gramme -of dry iodine in a watch-crystal 4 to 6 drops of the oil -to be examined.</p> - -<p>1. A vigorous reaction (detonation) with considerable -increase in the temperature and emission of vapors takes -place with the following oils: oils of bergamot, lemon, -lavender, nutmeg, orange peel, spike, turpentine, wormwood.</p> - -<p>2. Such a reaction as mentioned under 1, does not -take place with oils of bitter almonds, copaiba, calamus, -clove, peppermint, rose.</p> - -<p>3. Moderate heating and slight vapors are developed -with oils of anise-seed, fennel, camomile, curly mint, -marjoram, rosemary, sassafras, thyme.</p> - -<p>When an oil of the second series becomes heated with -iodine and evolves vapors, it may first of all be adulterated -with cheaper oils. This may also be the case -when an oil of the third series reacts violently with -iodine and evolves vapors with strong heating. Formerly -the iodine test was highly valued; it has, however, -been shown to be unreliable since it is frequently -dependent on the age of the oil.</p> - -<p>In place of iodine, Rudolph Eck recommends a very -dilute alcoholic iodine solution, which is not discolored<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> -by oils of turpentine, while other oils discolor it. Dissolve -a drop of the oil to be examined in 3 cubic centimeters -of 90 to 100 per cent. alcohol, and add a drop -of the iodine solution. The latter is not discolored in -the presence of an oil of turpentine. There are also, -however, several volatile oils, which do not discolor the -iodine solution. Mierzinski mentions the following: -All cold-expressed oils from the <i>Aurantiaceæ</i>, further -oils of coriander, caraway, galanga, rue, sassafras, rose, -rosemary, anise-seed, fennel, calamus, neroli, angelica, -wormwood. Hence, this reaction cannot be relied upon.</p> - -<p>II. <i>Hoppe's nitroprusside of copper test.</i>—This test -sometimes gives good results, but only with hydrocarbons -absolutely free from oxygen and oxygenated oils. -It is, therefore, not suitable for oils derived from the -<i>Aurantiaceæ</i>. The process is as follows: Add to a -small quantity of the oil to be examined in a perfectly -dry test-tube, 2 to 5 milligrammes of pure -nitroprusside of copper previously thoroughly dried -and finely pulverized, shake vigorously and gradually -heat to boiling. After boiling for a few seconds -allow to cool. If the oil is free from oil of turpentine, -or another oil containing no oxygen, the precipitate -formed is brown, black, or gray, and according to -the quantity of the reagent added and the original -color of the oil, the supernatant oil will be differently -colored and appear more or less dark. If, however, the -oil is adulterated with oil of turpentine, the precipitate -formed shows a handsome green or blue-green color, -while the supernatant oil retains its original color or at -the utmost acquires a very slightly darker one. The -longer the oil is allowed to stand after settling, the more<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> -distinct and beautiful the color of the oil and of the precipitate -appears. For the establishment and certain -recognition of very small quantities of oil of turpentine -in oxygenated oils, it is best to first add very little of -the nitroprusside of copper to the oil to be tested, and -a larger quantity only after being convinced either of -the purity or adulteration of the oil. This is done to be -able, on the one hand, better to judge the reaction, if the -oil is pure, and, on the other, if it is adulterated, to -establish such adulteration with certainty and to approximately -estimate the quantity of oil of turpentine -present. The less nitroprusside of copper is used, the -better small quantities of oil of turpentine can be -detected.</p> - -<p>Nearly all volatile oils free from oxygen show the -same behavior towards nitroprusside of copper; they -decompose it, which is not the case with oxygenated oils. -The behavior of the latter is shown in the following -table:—</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span></p> - -<div class="center"> -<table class="smtab" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><th class="thcb1">Name of the oil</th><th class="thcb">Color of the oil</th><th class="thcb">Proportion of nitroprusside of copper to oil</th><th class="thcb">Color of the oil after the experiment</th><th class="thcb">Color of the Precipitate</th></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt">Caraway</td><td class="tdltb">clear as water and colorless</td><td class="tdltb">1:1000 parts</td><td class="tdltb">slightly yellowish</td><td class="tdltb">dirty gray.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt">Fennel</td><td class="tdltb">pale yellowish</td><td class="tdltb">1:1000 "</td><td class="tdltb">brownish-yellow</td><td class="tdltb">black.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt">Dill</td><td class="tdltb">pale reddish-yellow</td><td class="tdltb">1:1000 "</td><td class="tdltb">becomes first colorless, then yellowish</td><td class="tdltb"> "</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt">Anise-seed</td><td class="tdltb">pale yellow</td><td class="tdltb">1:1000 "</td><td class="tdltb">yellow</td><td class="tdltb"> "</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt">Camomile (green)</td><td class="tdltb">yellowish</td><td class="tdltb">1:1000 "</td><td class="tdltb">brownish-yellow</td><td class="tdltb">ash-gray.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt">Lavender</td><td class="tdltb">pale yellow</td><td class="tdltb">1:1000 "</td><td class="tdltb">wine-yellow</td><td class="tdltb">slate-gray.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt"> "</td><td class="tdltb"> "</td><td class="tdltb">1: 100 "</td><td class="tdltb">brown-yellow</td><td class="tdltb"> "</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt">Mint(curly)</td><td class="tdltb">colorless</td><td class="tdltb">1:1000 "</td><td class="tdltb">wine-yellow</td><td class="tdltb">first gray, then black.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt">Peppermint</td><td class="tdltb"> "</td><td class="tdltb">1:1000 "</td><td class="tdltb">yellowish</td><td class="tdltb">black.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt"> "</td><td class="tdltb"> "</td><td class="tdltb">1: 100 "</td><td class="tdltb">brownish-yellow</td><td class="tdltb"> "</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt">Balm</td><td class="tdltb">yellow</td><td class="tdltb">1:1000 "</td><td class="tdltb">dark wine-yellow</td><td class="tdltb"> "</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt">Marjoram</td><td class="tdltb">colorless</td><td class="tdltb">1:1000 "</td><td class="tdltb">yellowish</td><td class="tdltb"> "</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt"> "</td><td class="tdltb"> "</td><td class="tdltb">1: 100 "</td><td class="tdltb">brown-yellow</td><td class="tdltb"> "</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt">Sage</td><td class="tdltb">slightly yellowish</td><td class="tdltb">1:1000 "</td><td class="tdltb">wine-yellow</td><td class="tdltb">dark green.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt"> "</td><td class="tdltb"> "</td><td class="tdltb">1: 100 "</td><td class="tdltb">brown-yellow</td><td class="tdltb">dark green, then nearly black.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt">Thyme(field)</td><td class="tdltb"> "</td><td class="tdltb">1:1000 "</td><td class="tdltb">brownish-yellow</td><td class="tdltb">slate-gray.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt"> "</td><td class="tdltb"> "</td><td class="tdltb">1: 100 "</td><td class="tdltb">darkbrown-yellow</td><td class="tdltb">nearly black.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt">Wormwood</td><td class="tdltb">yellow-brown</td><td class="tdltb">1:1000 "</td><td class="tdltb">dark brown</td><td class="tdltb">black.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt">Tansy</td><td class="tdltb">pale yellow</td><td class="tdltb">1:1000 "</td><td class="tdltb">red-brown</td><td class="tdltb">dirty brown.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt">Milfoil</td><td class="tdltb">dark azure-blue</td><td class="tdltb">1:1000 "</td><td class="tdltb">first pale blue, then dark green</td><td class="tdltb">gray-brown.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt">Cajeput</td><td class="tdltb">colorless</td><td class="tdltb">1:1000 "</td><td class="tdltb">brownish-yellow</td><td class="tdltb">black.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt">Clove</td><td class="tdltb">slightly yellowish</td><td class="tdltb">1:2000 "</td><td class="tdltb">rose-red and clear</td><td class="tdltb">slate-gray.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt"> "</td><td class="tdltb"> "</td><td class="tdltb">1:1000 "</td><td class="tdltb">violet-red and clear</td><td class="tdltb"> "</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt"> "</td><td class="tdltb"> "</td><td class="tdltb">1: 500 "</td><td class="tdltb">cherry-red and opaque</td><td class="tdltb"> "</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt"> "</td><td class="tdltb"> "</td><td class="tdltb">1: 100 "</td><td class="tdltb">dark cherry-red and opaque</td><td class="tdltb"> "</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt">Cassia</td><td class="tdltb">brownish-yellow</td><td class="tdltb">1:1000 "</td><td class="tdltb">brownish-red to hyacinth-red</td><td class="tdltb">black.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt"> "</td><td class="tdltb"> "</td><td class="tdltb">1: 100 "</td><td class="tdltb">dark brown-red</td><td class="tdltb"> "</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt">Sassafras</td><td class="tdltb">yellowish</td><td class="tdltb">1:1000 "</td><td class="tdltb">yellowish-brown</td><td class="tdltb"> "</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt">Star anise</td><td class="tdltb">pale yellow</td><td class="tdltb">1:1000 "</td><td class="tdltb">dark wine-yellow</td><td class="tdltb"> "</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt">Valerian</td><td class="tdltb">pale greenish</td><td class="tdltb">1: 100 "</td><td class="tdltb">brownish-yellow</td><td class="tdltb"> "</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt">Rue</td><td class="tdltb">slightly yellowish</td><td class="tdltb">1: 100 "</td><td class="tdltb">brown-yellow</td><td class="tdltb">ash-gray.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlt">Bergamotte</td><td class="tdltb">yellowish</td><td class="tdltb">1:1000 "</td><td class="tdltb">dark yellow</td><td class="tdltb"> "</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdltb1"> "</td><td class="tdltbb"> "</td><td class="tdltbb">1: 100 "</td><td class="tdltbb">brownish-red</td><td class="tdltbb"> "</td></tr> -</table></div> - - -<p>If these oxygenated oils are mixed with oils free from -oxygen, for instance, oil of turpentine, they show exactly -the same behavior as oils free from oxygen; the nitroprusside -of copper is not decomposed and retains its -gray-green color. If, for instance, oil of cloves is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> -mixed with oil of turpentine, the red coloration by -nitroprusside of copper does not appear.</p> - -<p>III. <i>Hager's alcohol and sulphuric acid test.</i>—Bring -into a test-tube of about 0.5 inch diameter, five to six -drops of the oil to be tested and twenty-five to thirty drops -of pure concentrated sulphuric acid, and mix the two fluids -by shaking, whereby either no heating takes place or a -scarcely perceptible one, or the heating is strong or very -vigorous and in some cases increased to the evolution of -vapors. The mixture is either clear or turbid. After -complete cooling, add to the mixture eight to ten cubic -centimeters of 90 per cent. alcohol, and after closing the -tube with the finger, shake vigorously. The mixture -now shows a different color, is clear or turbid, and the -deposit formed after standing for one day is also differently -colored and either soluble or insoluble in boiling -alcohol.</p> - -<p>The mixture of oil, sulphuric acid and alcohol is perfectly -clear and transparent with oils of bitter almonds, -fennel, clove and rose; with anise-seed oil and star anise-seed -oil only the alcoholic layer over the mixture of sulphuric -acid and oil is clear. The mixture of oil, acid and -alcohol is slightly turbid or nearly clear with oils of -valerian, peppermint and field thyme. With most of the -other volatile oils occurring in commerce, the mixture -is more or less milky turbid. Heating of the oil and acid -mixtures does not take place with pyrogenous oils (petroleum, -benzine) or only to a very slight degree, as with -oils of peppermint and mustard.</p> - -<p>IV. <i>Hager's guaiacum reaction</i><a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> serves for the detec<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span>tion -of oil of turpentine in a volatile oil. By pouring upon -as much guaiacum, freshly powdered, as will lie upon the -point of a small knife, in a test-tube 1 cubic centimeter -(25 drops) of spike oil, and heating nearly to boiling -over a petroleum lamp, the oil after being removed -from the flame and allowing the undissolved resin to -settle, shows a <i>yellow</i> color. By now pouring upon an -equal quantity of guaiacum in another test-tube 25 drops -of spike oil and 5 drops of rectified oil of t -from the flame shows a <i>dark violet color</i>. -Various other oils behave in the same manner as spike -oil, and hence a content of oil of turpentine can be -readily detected in them. Other oils do not exhibit this -behavior; but this can be remedied by adding, in testing -for oil of turpentine, a few drops of an oil of the -first class.</p> - -<p>The guaiacum reaction is an ozone reaction and with -reference to this, the volatile oils may be divided into -three classes:—</p> - -<p><i>a. Oils inclining to the formation of ozone.</i>—Foremost -of these is oil of turpentine, especially when rectified. -Oils of tansy, rue, mint, juniper, zedoary, etc., show considerably -less inclination.</p> - -<p><i>b. Oils which, especially when heated, directly incite the -oil of turpentine to form ozone, and to color guaiacum -violet or blue.</i>—Such oils are many kinds of oil of citronella, -oils of spike, calamus, cedar, etc.</p> - -<p><i>c. Oils with a content of oil of turpentine, which remain -indifferent towards guaiacum.</i>—To such oils, if to -be tested for oil of turpentine, with the assistance of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> -guaiacum reaction, a few drops of an oil of the second -class have to be added.</p> - -<p>V. <i>Hübl's iodine method.</i>—Mr. C. Barenthin has -applied Hübl's iodine method for fixed oils to the -examination of volatile oils. He uses the following -solutions:—</p> - -<p>1. Fifty grammes iodine and 60 grammes of mercuric -chloride in a liter of alcohol freed from fusel oil, and -let stand for 12 hours.</p> - -<p>2. Twenty-four grammes of hyposulphite of sodium -in a liter of water.</p> - -<p>3. A ten per cent. solution of iodide of potassium. -Dissolve 0.1 to 0.2 gramme of the volatile oil in 10 -cubic centimeters of chloroform, and add first 15 cubic -centimeters of the iodine-mercuric chloride solution; let -stand three or four hours, and, in case the mixture gets -discolored, add a few more centimeters of solution. Now -add 10 to 15 cubic centimeters iodide of potassium -solution, dilute with 150 cubic centimeters of water, and -titrate with hyposulphite till the mixture remains clear -for about a minute. The iodide of potassium solution -must be added before the water, and the relative proportions -between this solution and the iodine-mercuric -chloride solution must be 15 to 20 cubic centimeters. -The quantity of iodine solution consumed is calculated -to iodine for 100 parts and the figure thus obtained is -designated as the "iodine number."</p> - -<p>Barenthin has in this manner determined the iodine -number of several volatile oils; other experimenters, -however, for instance, Kremel and Davies,<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> have found<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> -different numbers for the same oils, so that this method -requires further thorough examination before it can be -classed as available.</p> - -<p>VI. A. Kremel has endeavored to utilize <i>titration -or saponification with alcoholic potash lye</i> for the examination -of volatile oils. In his experiments he was guided -by the following points: A series of volatile oils contains -partially free organic acids, like oils of bitter almonds -and cinnamon, and partially aldehydes or other combinations. -Now it seems not impossible, that up to a certain -limit, the quantities of these combinations in the separate -volatile oils remain constant, thus presenting the opportunity -of testing the respective oils as to their quality -and purity by saponification. In some cases these combinations -are the chief bearers of the specific odor, and -hence the determination of the "<i>saponification number</i>" -becomes of double value. It is, of course, self-evident -that not every volatile oil can be saponified, and Kremel -admits that, even where saponification takes place, it is -not in every case a sure test.</p> - -<p>The execution of the method is as follows: Dissolve -1 gramme of the oil to be examined in 2 to 3 cubic centimeters -of 90 per cent. alcohol freed from acid, compound -the solution with a few drops of phenol-phthalein -solution, and titrate the free acid with ½ normal alcoholic -potash lye. The milligrammes of caustic potash used -are designated the "<i>acid number</i>." After having thus -determined the content of acid, add to the same solution -10 cubic centimeters of the same potash lye, heat -for ¼ hour upon the water bath, and then titrate back the -excess of potash lye with ½ normal hydrochloric acid. -In this manner the "<i>saponification number</i>" is obtained.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> -(In some cases when the final reaction is not plainly perceptible, -it is advisable to correspondingly dilute with -water after heating the alcoholic fluid.) The saponification -number, less the acid number, gives the "<i>ether</i> -or <i>ester number</i>."</p> - -<p>Kremel has in this manner examined a large number -of volatile oils and partially obtained surprising results. -Rose oil gives a saponification number of 12, and -geranium oils one of 40 to 50. While lavender oils -give very high saponification numbers, oil of lemons does -not. Artificial oil of bitter almonds shows higher -saponification numbers than the natural oil. By further -compounding the saponified portions of the latter with -acid, a crystalline precipitate of benzoin is formed, the -quantity of which amounts to from 40 to 50 per cent. of -the oil used. Such a precipitate, but only in very small -quantities, is also formed in peach kernel oil, but not in -other similar oils nor in artificial oil of bitter almonds.</p> - -<p>VII. F. R. Williams has recently endeavored to -utilize for testing volatile oils Maumené's test, which is -based upon the increase in temperature produced in oils -by concentrated sulphuric acid, and which gives valuable -points for the examination of some fat oils. Of course, -the large quantities of oil otherwise prescribed cannot be -used. While for the examination of fat oils 50 grammes -of oil are mixed with 10 cubic centimeters of concentrated -sulphuric acid in a beaker glass wrapped around -with cotton, Williams could use only six cubic centimeters -of volatile oil. They were brought into a very -small beaker glass enveloped in cotton. After reading -off the temperature, twelve cubic centimeters of concentrated -sulphuric acid were added and the whole stirred<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> -with the thermometer until the temperature no longer -rose. Numbers were in this manner obtained which -might in some cases, for instance, cassia oil, furnish -guiding points for judging the purity of the oil.</p> - -<p>Planchon proposes the following procedure in order -to recognize a volatile oil:—</p> - - -<p class="center">A. <i>The oil is specifically lighter than water.</i></p> - -<p>1. The substance is solid and only melts at 347° F.: -<i>Camphor</i>.</p> - -<p>2. The oil at a temperature of over 32° F. contains a -crystalline stearoptene.</p> - -<p class="hang"><i>a.</i> The oil is laevorotatory, the stearoptene melts at -77° F., and, on adding sulphuric acid, a clear -solution remains behind: <i>Rose oil</i>.</p> - -<p class="hang"><i>b.</i> The oil possesses no rotatory power, the stearoptene -melts at 50° F., and, on adding sulphuric -acid, two layers are formed, only one of which -is liquid: <i>Anise-seed oil</i>.</p> - -<p class="hang"><i>c.</i> The oil is dextrorotatory, the stearoptene melts at -41° F., and, on adding sulphuric acid, a nearly -colorless fluid remains behind: <i>Fennel oil</i>.</p> - -<p>3. The oil is perfectly fluid and clear at above 32° F.</p> - -<p>I. The oil explodes with iodine, emitting violet vapors.</p> - -<p class="hang"><i>a.</i> The oil thickens in the air and readily forms resin.</p> -<div class="indent2"><p>It requires for its solution several volumes of alcohol: -<i>Oil of conifers</i>.</p></div> - -<p class="hang"><i>b.</i> The oil, on exposure to the air, does not thicken -and but slowly forms resin.</p> - -<div class="blq1"> - -<p>α. It is dextrorotatory.</p> -<div class="blq1"> -<p class="hang1">The liquid oil dissolves santalin: <i>Oil of the -aurantiaceæ</i>.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span></p> - -<p class="hang1">The thick oil does not dissolve santalin: -<i>Mace oil</i>.</p></div> - -<p>β. The oil is laevorotatory.</p> -<div class="blq1"> -<p class="hang1">The oil shows an acid reaction and dissolves -in equal parts of alcohol: <i>Lavender oil</i>.</p> - -<p class="hang1">The oil shows a neutral reaction and dissolves -in 12 to 15 parts of alcohol: <i>Marjoram oil</i>.</p></div></div> - -<p>II. The oil gives no explosion with iodine, but shows -an increase in temperature with or without emission of -red vapors.</p> - -<p><i>a.</i> The oil shows an acid reaction.</p> - -<div class="blq1"> - -<p class="hang">α. The blue or green oil shows the acid reaction -only indistinctly: <i>Milfoil oil</i>.</p> - -<p class="hang">β. The colorless or brown oil gives a turbid fluid -with sulphuric acid. It is laevorotatory: -<i>Spanish marjoram oil</i>.</p> - -<div class="blq1"> - -<p class="hang1">The oil is rendered but slightly turbid by -sulphuric acid; it acquires a red-violet -color by nitric acid, has no effect upon the -plane of polarization, and has a peculiar -odor: <i>Oil of valerian</i>.</p></div></div> - -<p><i>b.</i> The oil is neutral.</p> - -<div class="blq1"> - -<p class="hang">α. It dissolves with difficulty in alcohol.</p> - -<p class="hang">β. The oil is miscible in every proportion with -alcohol.</p> - -<div class="blq1"> - -<p>1. It is dextrorotatory.</p> -<div class="blq1"> -<p class="hang1">The oil is colorless or yellowish, it thickens -on exposure to the air, and dissolves -and reduces fuchsine: <i>Caraway oil</i>.</p> - -<p class="hang1">The oil is thick, yellow-brown or red-yellow, -and has a peculiar odor: <i>Calamus -oil</i>.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span></p> - - - -<p>2. The oil is laevorotatory.</p> - -<div class="blq1"> - -<p class="hang1">It is fluid and has an aromatic odor: -<i>Rosemary oil</i>.</p> - -<p class="hang1">The oil is thick and very pungent: -<i>Cubebs oil</i>.</p></div></div></div> - -<p>III. The oil dissolves iodine without vigorous reaction -and without an increase in the temperature.</p> - -<p><i>a.</i> The oil is blue and green.</p> - -<div class="blq1"> - -<p class="hang">It has an agreeable, camphor-like odor: <i>Camomile -oil</i>.</p> - -<p class="hang">The green oil thickens in the air and is dextrorotatory: -<i>Wormwood oil</i>.</p> - -<p class="hang">The oil is generally green and produces no effect -upon the plane of polarization: <i>Cajeput oil</i>.</p></div> - -<p><i>b.</i> The oil is colorless or yellow-brown.</p> - -<div class="blq1"> - -<p class="hang">α. It separates a solid stearoptene at about 32° -F.: <i>Rue oil</i>.</p> - -<p class="hang">β. The oil remains liquid at several degrees below -32° F.</p> - -<div class="blq1"> - -<p>1. Dextrorotatory oils.</p> -<div class="blq1"> -<p class="hang1">The oil shows an acid reaction, and gives -with sulphuric acid a somewhat turbid -solution, which becomes clear by the -addition of alcohol: <i>Dill oil</i>.</p> - -<p class="hang1">The oil gives with sulphuric acid a yellow-red -turbid solution, which becomes -clear and peach-blossom red by the addition -of alcohol: <i>Eucalyptus oil</i>.</p></div> - -<p>2. Laevorotatory oil.</p> -<div class="blq1"> -<p class="hang1">The oil showing an acid reaction becomes -thick in the air and has a characteristic -odor: <i>Mint oil</i>.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span></p> - -<p class="hang1"> -The oil shows a neutral reaction and has -a camphor-like odor: <i>Thyme oil</i>.</p></div></div></div> - -<p>IV. The oil does not dissolve iodine, does not heat -with sulphuric acid, and does not react upon nitric acid. -The odor is empyreumatic: <i>Petroleum</i>.</p> - - -<p class="center">B. <i>The oil is specifically heavier than water.</i></p> - -<p>1. The oil shows an acid reaction.</p> - -<div class="blq1"> - -<p class="hang1">It is soluble in 30 parts of water, boils at 356° -F., and smells of bitter almonds: <i>Oil of bitter -almonds</i>.</p> - -<p class="hang1">The oil has an agreeable, sweet odor and boils at -from 392° to 431.6° F.: <i>Wintergreen oil</i>.</p></div> - -<p>2. The oil shows a neutral reaction.</p> - -<div class="blq1"> - -<p><i>a.</i> The oil is laevorotatory.</p> - -<div class="blq1"> - -<p class="hang1">It becomes blue by the addition of sulphuric -acid: <i>Oil of cloves</i>.</p></div> - -<p><i>b.</i> The oil is optically inactive.</p> - -<div class="blq1"> - -<p class="hang1">The thick oil gives with sulphuric acid a turbid, -black-brown fluid; the odor is agreeable: -<i>Cinnamon oil</i>.</p></div> - -<p><i>c.</i> The oil is dextrorotatory.</p> - -<div class="blq1"> - -<p class="hang1">The thick oil has an agreeable odor: <i>Sassafras -oil</i>.</p></div></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span></p> - - - - -<div class="chapter"><h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</a></h2></div> - -<p class="subh">THE VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY.</p> - - -<p>The volatile oils, as previously mentioned, may be divided -into three groups, viz: the pure hydrocarbons, -oxygenated oils, and sulphuretted oils. Chemically, this -division is, however, of little value, since, among bodies -which should be classed according to it in one of the -groups, combinations are found which vary very much -in a chemical respect, and belong partially in the groups -of alcohols, indifferent bodies, acids, etc.</p> - -<p>It is, therefore, preferred not to attempt a classification -of the volatile oils according to their chemical composition, -but simply to enumerate them in alphabetical -order.</p> - -<p><i>Acacia, oil of</i>, commonly called <i>oil of cassie</i>. The -flowers or buds of the <i>acacia Farnesiana</i> yield a somewhat -thickly-fluid, greenish-yellow oil of a very intense -but delightful odor. The oil may be obtained either by -extraction or absorption. The acacia is cultivated in -special plantations along the <i>Riviera di Genova</i>. These -plantations being controlled by a few perfumers, the oil -is not allowed to reach the market, and does not form an -article of commerce. The green-colored <i>extrait d'acacia</i> -is a solution of the oil in alcohol.</p> - -<p><i>Almond oil</i> (<i>bitter</i>) (<i>oleum amygdalae amaræ</i>) is obtained -by submitting bitter almond cake (left after the expres<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span>sion -of the fixed oil from bitter almonds) to distillation -with water. The volatile oil does not exist ready -formed in the bitter almond, nor in the almond cake, -but results from the decomposition of a glucoside called -"amygdalin," contained in the cake, under the influence -of emulsin and water, the emulsin acting as a ferment, -into benzylic aldehyde, glucose and prussic acid. The -almond tree grows wild, but is also cultivated in Southern -Europe, Africa, Barbary, Palestine and Syria. The -bitter almonds brought from Barbary are considered the -best. Besides, in almonds, amygdalin occurs in various -other plants; for instance, in the leaves of the cherry -laurel, the leaves and kernels of the peach, the kernels -of the black cherry and other varieties of <i>prunus</i> and -<i>amygdalus</i>, they all yielding, after maceration with -water, a distillate containing prussic acid and oil of -bitter almonds.</p> - -<p>Instead of the comparatively expensive bitter almonds, -peach kernels freed from their hard shells are extensively -used in the fabrication of oil of bitter almonds. The oil -is prepared as follows: The press cakes of bitter almonds -or peach kernels are ground and soaked about twenty-four -hours in twice their weight of water to which one-third -their weight of salt has been added. The whole -is then submitted to distillation. The temperature of -the water should not exceed 113° to 122° F. The -emulsin contained in the almonds possesses only within -certain limits of temperature the power of decomposing -amygdalin, and, if heated to 176° F., becomes inoperative. -Hence, if the almond paste is quickly heated to -boiling, the emulsin becomes inoperative before all the -amygdalin is decomposed, and a portion of it being con<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span>sequently -lost, the yield is insufficient. The distillation -of the almond paste is effected in a current of steam.</p> - -<p>A portion of the prussic acid formed by the decomposition -of the amygdalin adheres tenaciously to the oil. -This content of prussic acid makes the oil of bitter -almonds exceedingly poisonous, while in itself it is non-poisonous. -It can be freed from the prussic acid by -shaking with ferrous sulphate (blue vitriol) solution. -By then distilling over burnt lime the originally yellow -or yellowish oil is obtained colorless. It is then thinly -fluid, of a peculiar agreeable odor and strongly nutty -taste. Its specific gravity is 1.043 at 59° F., but varies -a little with age. It boils at 356° F., and dissolves in -13 parts of water, but more readily in alcohol and ether. -In the air it is rapidly converted into benzoic acid by -the absorption of oxygen. It has to be carefully protected -from air and light and kept in well-closed bottles -in a dark place. The crude oil, containing from 2 to 5 -per cent. prussic acid, has generally a yellowish color.</p> - -<p>Oil of bitter almonds may be prepared artificially in -many ways. By allowing chlorine to flow into boiling -toluene, the latter is converted into benzyl chloride:-</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="center">C<sub>6</sub>H<sub>5</sub>(CH<sub>3</sub>)</td><td align="center">+ Cl<sub>2</sub> =</td><td align="center">C<sub>6</sub>H<sub>5</sub>(CH<sub>2</sub>Cl)</td><td align="center">+ HCl</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center"><small>toluene</small></td><td align="center"><small>chlorine</small></td><td align="center"><small>benzyl chloride</small></td><td align="center"><small>hydrogen chloride</small></td></tr> -</table></div> - -<p>By withdrawing the chlorine and one atom hydrogen -from the benzyl chloride and introducing for it one -atom oxygen, the benzyl chloride is converted into benzaldehyde. -This conversion is readily effected by continuously -boiling, best with the introduction of carbonic -acid, 1 part of benzyl chloride with 1½ parts of lead -nitrate and 10 parts of water, and finally distilling the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> -benzaldehyde off by steam. The decomposition takes -place according to the following equation:—</p> -<blockquote> -<p> -2[C<sub>6</sub>H<sub>5</sub>(CH<sub>2</sub>Cl)] + Pb(NO<sub>3</sub>)2 =<br /> -2[C<sub>6</sub>H<sub>5</sub>(CHO)] + PbCl<sub>2</sub> + N<sub>2</sub>O<sub>3</sub> + H<sub>2</sub>O.<br /> -</p></blockquote> - -<p>The crude benzaldehyde thus obtained is agitated -with warm solution of acid sodium sulphite, the solution -formed thereby is separated from undissolved -oily particles and cooled, whereby a combination of -benzaldehyde with acid sodium sulphate crystallizes -out. This combination is separated from the remaining -fluid, decomposed by acid and submitted -to distillation, whereby benzaldehyde passes over. -Large quantities of benzaldehyde are at present prepared -according to this method. The identity of -benzaldehyde with oil of bitter almonds has been -established by Lippmann and Hawliczek.</p> - -<p>Genuine oil of almonds is much adulterated, chiefly -with alcohol, nitrobenzole, and various cheaper oils. -An addition of 3 to 5 per cent. of alcohol is frequently -made by Italian dealers in order to conceal a content of -water, which at a low temperature is apt to render the -oil turbid. To detect the presence of alcohol, moderately -heat a sample of the oil in a distilling apparatus -and compound the drops, first passing over with sodium -carbonate solution and then with potassium iodide solution. -In the presence of alcohol a yellowish crystalline -precipitate of iodoform is formed.</p> - -<p>An addition of synthetically composed oil might seem -of no importance, since the natural oil does not differ -from it. However, for very fine perfumery the natural -oil cannot be replaced by the artificial, it having been<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> -thus far impossible to obtain the latter absolutely chemically -pure. It always contains small quantities of -undecomposed chlorine combinations which injure the -taste and odor. To detect such oil in the natural oil, -bring a few drops upon a tuft of cotton and ignite it. -Over the burning flame invert a beaker moistened inside -with water. On the moist sides of the beaker the soot -and hydrochloric acid formed by the combustion of the -chlorine combination are precipitated. When the flame -is extinguished, the beaker is rinsed out with water, the -fluid filtered and tested for chlorine with nitrate of -silver. An addition of 10 per cent. artificial oil can in -this manner be accurately determined.</p> - -<p>If genuine oil of bitter almonds containing prussic acid, -be heated with an excess of alcoholic potash lye, and the -excess of the latter be neutralized with hydrochloric acid, -benzoin amounting to 40 to 50 per cent. of the weight of -oil of bitter almonds is, according to A. Kremel, separated. -By subjecting artificial oil of bitter almonds to the same -treatment, no benzoin is separated, so that the genuine -oil can in this manner be distinguished from the artificial. -Kremel further found that oil of bitter almonds -prepared from apricot kernels, when treated in an analogous -manner, yielded considerably less benzoin, and -that cherry-laurel oil containing prussic acid, which has -been considered identical with oil of bitter almonds, separated -no benzoin whatever. Should further experiments -prove the constancy of this phenomenon, this reaction -would be a convenient means of distinguishing the four -products.</p> - -<p>An adulteration with nitrobenzole and other volatile -oils is recognized by mixing 2 drops of the oil with 100<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> -drops of distilled water, and shaking vigorously. Pure -oil must completely dissolve. However, the test yields -accurate results only with the use of actually pure distilled -water and by accurately observing the above-mentioned -proportions. If to 5 cubic centimeters of 90 -per cent. alcohol and an equal quantity of distilled water -in a test-tube, 10 drops of the oil be added, and, after -closing the tube with the finger, mixture be effected by -gently turning the tube twice upside down, a clear solution -will immediately result if the oil is pure. If, however, -it contains nitrobenzole, even only 1 per cent., the latter -separates, at first rendering the fluid turbid, but in the -course of a minute, when gently agitated, it floats in the -form of minute drops upon the fluid, while, when at -rest, these drops collect to larger ones on the bottom of -the test-tube. If the oil becomes only turbid, adulteration -with other volatile oils is indicated. Another test, -given by Wagner, is based upon the difference in the -specific gravity of mixtures of oil of bitter almonds with -oil of mirbane. The specific gravity of commercial oil -of bitter almonds varies between 1.040 and 1.043 and -that of oil of mirbane between 1.180 and 1.201.</p> -<blockquote> -<p> -5 c. c. of pure oil of bitter almonds weigh 5.29 grammes.<br /> -5 " mixed with ¼ oil of mirbane " 5.39 "<br /> -5 " " " ½ " " " 5.57 "<br /> -5 " " " ¾ " " " 5.75 "<br /> -5 " of pure " " " 5.90 "<br /> -</p></blockquote> - -<p>Oil of bitter almonds is much used in the fabrication -of perfumery. In a pure state its odor is by no means -agreeable, but rather strong and stupefying. When -strongly diluted it is, however, very pleasant.</p> - -<p><i>Angelica oil</i> is obtained by distillation with water<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> -from the root of <i>Angelica Archangelica L.</i>, natural -order <i>Umbelliferae</i>. The oil is lighter than water, possesses -the spicy odor of the root and an aromatic pungent -taste. It consists mostly of a terpene which turns -the plane of polarization to the right, and boils at -320° F.</p> - -<p>Besides the oil from the root, one obtained from the -seeds also occurs in commerce. It is, however, more -expensive. In a fresh state it is amber-yellow, and has -a specific gravity of 0.8549 at 59° F.; older oil is -thickly-fluid, brown, and has a specific gravity of O.9086. -It contains a terpene which turns the plane of polarization -to the right, and has a lemon-like odor. It is -used for fine perfumery.</p> - -<p><i>Anise-seed oil</i> (<i>oleum anisi</i>). The anise (<i>Pimpinella -anisum L.</i>), natural order <i>Umbelliferae</i>, contains volatile -oil in all parts, but chiefly in the seeds. Dry anise-seed -yields by distillation 2½ to 3 per cent. of oil, while the -peduncle and chaff contain at the utmost 1 per cent. of -oil, which is said to be richer in stearoptene. The anise-seed -oil prepared in Southern Russia has always been -highly valued, but as it is generally considerably adulterated, -the Leipsic manufacturers of volatile oils prefer -to import the seed and distill it themselves.</p> - -<p>Freshly prepared anise-seed oil is colorless or straw-yellow, -has the odor of anise and a sweetish taste, leaving -a burning sensation upon the tongue. It is thinly -fluid at 68° F., but commences to congeal at a somewhat -lower temperature, and the sooner the more stearoptene -it contains. Good oil should become solid at from 57.2° -to 60.8° F. It has a specific gravity of 0.980 to 0.995 -at 59° F. The specific gravity varies with the content<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> -of stearoptene; the greater the latter the higher the -specific gravity. Good anise-seed oil contains 5 to 10 per -cent. of terpene and 90 to 95 per cent. of a stearoptene, -called anethol, C<sub>10</sub>H<sub>12</sub>O, on which the value of the oil -depends. The anethol can be separated from the oil by -cooling to 32° F., and forms colorless crystals. It has -an agreeable odor and intensely sweet taste, is sparingly -soluble in water, but readily in alcohol, ether, and other -solvents of volatile oils. Good anethol has a specific -gravity of 0.986, and melts at 69° to 70° F. By frequent -contact with the air a small portion of the anethol -is oxidized, very likely to anisaldehyde. By this process -the specific gravity is raised and the melting point -lowered.</p> - -<p>Anise-seed oil is soluble in 5 parts of 90 per cent. -alcohol, and with 3½ times its volume of petroleum-ether -yields a clear mixture. Its mixture with four -times its weight of petroleum-ether is turbid, but becomes -clear in ten minutes, while that with five times -its volume of petroleum-ether remains for a longer time -turbid. In a fluid state the oil, when exposed to the -air, becomes resinous and loses its property to crystallize. -It should, therefore, be kept in tightly-closed -bottles in a cool, shady place.</p> - -<p>Anise-seed oil is used in perfuming soaps and mouth -waters. It should, however, be used with prudence, -since the sweetish, penetrating odor of the oil readily -overcomes the other volatile oils in the mixture, and renders -them inoperative.</p> - -<p><i>Star anise oil</i> very much resembles the ordinary anise-seed -oil. It is obtained from star anise, the fruit of -<i>Illicium anisatum</i>, a tree formerly supposed to be indige<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span>nous -to Cochin China, and cultivated in China, Japan, -and the Phillipine Islands. However, according to -Messrs. Bourgeoin-Meiffre, a French firm of Hanoï -(Tonkin), the star anise oil found in commerce is exclusively -produced in the French colony Tonkin (Province -Langson), the French government having made over the -entire sale of the oil to the above-mentioned firm.</p> - -<p>According to a memoir published by Dr. Blondel, of -Paris, the star anise tree is not indigenous to the Chinese -provinces Yunnan, Quang-si, and Fo-Rien, but to the -province Langson, which has by conquest passed into -French possession. Hence, the producers of star anise -and star anise oil are now under French control and, as -it seems, are obliged to sell all the oil produced to the -above-mentioned firm. If these statements should -prove correct, the Chinese harbors Macao and Hong -Kong, from which the greater portion of star anise oil -was formerly exported, will lose their importance in this -respect and the product find its way direct from Hanoï -<i>via</i> Hayphong to Marseilles. The first shipment from -Bourgeoin-Meiffre arrived in Europe in December, 1890. -According to Messrs. Schimmel & Co.'s report, the product -is put up and packed exactly like that formerly -shipped from Hong Kong, and the oil of excellent quality.</p> - -<p>Star anise oil differs from the ordinary oil in containing -a much smaller quantity of anethol, and hence -congealing only at a temperature of from 41° to 50° F. -Besides the odor of the terpene contained in star anise -oil differs from that of the ordinary oil. Admixtures of -star anise oil can, therefore, be generally recognized by -the odor. Other methods recommended for its detection -are unreliable.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Balm oil.</i>—The leaves of this plant, <i>Melissa officinalis</i>, -yield by distillation a volatile oil sometimes called oil of -melissa. It is colorless or yellowish, of a pleasant odor, -has a specific gravity of 0.85 to 0.92, shows a slightly -acid reaction and dissolves in 2 to 3 parts of alcohol. -It must not be confounded with the so-called East -India oil of melissa or citronella oil from <i>Andropogon -Nardus L.</i> Balm oil is occasionally used in the preparation -of <i lang="fr">eau de Cologne</i>.</p> - -<p><i>Basil oil</i> is distilled in Southern France from the fresh -leaves of <i>Ocymum basilicum L.</i>, natural order <i>Labiatæ</i>. -The oil shows the peculiar odor of the herb and crystallizes -a few degrees above 32° F. In perfumery it is -used as an addition to violet and other preparations. -The French also prepare a <i lang="fr">pommade basilique</i>, which -serves as a cheap substitute for violet pomade.</p> - -<p><i>Bayberry oil</i>, or <i>oil of bay leaves</i>, is extracted by distillation -from the leaves of <i>Myrcia acris</i> or the bayberry -tree. Many varieties of the tree exist throughout -the West Indies, which are scarcely to be distinguished -botanically, but have quite a different odor from that of -the genuine tree. Great care must, therefore, be taken -in the collection of the leaves which are to be used, as -the admixture of a small quantity of the other leaves -may entirely spoil the product of distillation. Two oils -are obtained, a light oil of specific gravity of 0.870 to -0.990, and a heavy oil with specific gravity 1.023 to -1.037. When first distilled the oil is colorless, but by -exposure to the air quickly acquires a yellowish tint and, -if the exposure be continued, becomes quite dark in color. -The odor of the freshly-distilled oil is rank, but in the -course of from three to six months it becomes mellow,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> -and ripens into the agreeable fragrance so much liked in -the best specimens of bay-rum. The oil is soluble in -all proportions in 95 per cent. alcohol, also in ether and -petroleum benzine. Its chief use is for the preparation -of bay-rum.</p> - -<p><i>Bergamot oil</i> is obtained from the rinds of the fruit of -<i>citrus bergamia</i>, a tree belonging to the natural order -<i>Aurantiaceæ</i>. The rind is grated and the oil running -off separated from the aqueous fluid and cellular substance -by means of a separating funnel, or the grated -mass is distilled in a current of carbonic acid. The oil -is very fluid and pale yellow, but poorer qualities are frequently -greenish or brownish. When distilled with -water it becomes perfectly colorless, but is less durable. -Its odor is very pleasant, somewhat like a mixture of -orange and lemon oils. Its specific gravity is 0.87 to -0.89. By standing for some time, the oil separates -white crystalline scales (stearoptene), which melt at 223° -F. The oil becomes solid a few degrees below the freezing -point. The Messina oil of bergamot is considered -the best. From other volatile oils of the orange family, -bergamot oil differs in dissolving readily in caustic potash, -forming a clear solution. It has, however, the same -property as other oils of a similar origin, of igniting -with iodine and not dissolving santalin, the red resinous -coloring matter of santal-wood.</p> - -<p>Bergamot oil may be tested as to its purity by mixing -it with alcohol. It becomes pale gray-yellow, forms a -sediment which adheres firmly to the vessel and, on -shaking, floats about in the form of flakes. After two -days the sediment is inconsiderable and difficult to -divide into flakes in the clear yellow fluid by shaking.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> -The oil is frequently adulterated with alcohol. To -detect such adulteration, Righini recommends the following -method: Mix 15 parts of the oil with a like quantity -of pure olive oil or oil of sweet almonds. If -alcohol is present, it immediately separates, like water, -from the fat oil; if no separation takes place the oil is -not adulterated with alcohol. The tannin test also gives -reliable results. In storing oil of bergamot great care -must be exercised to exclude air and light, as it is one -of the most changeable oils and soon acquires an odor -resembling that of turpentine.</p> - -<p>Large quantities of oil of bergamot are used in perfumery. -It forms, so to say, the basis for most of the -finer products. In Cologne water it forms the principal -constituent in the mixture of volatile oils.</p> - -<p><i>Cajeput oil</i> (<i>oleum cajeputi</i>).—This oil is obtained by -distillation from the leaves of several species of <i>Melaleucæ</i>, -natural order <i>Caryophyllaceæ</i>, indigenous to the East -Indies, Banda, and Malabar. The ordinary oil has a -greenish color and possesses a strong odor of camphor -and a pungent taste. It is chiefly imported by way of -Amsterdam, where it is partially discolored by rectification, -so that two kinds, the white and green cajeput -oil, are brought into commerce. The color of the latter -is generally supposed to be due to a resinous substance -containing chlorophyl, though others assert that it originates -from the copper of the distilling apparatus and the -copper flasks in which it is dispatched. The specific -gravity of the oil varies between 0.910 and 0.940, -though specifically lighter and heavier oils are said to -occur.</p> - -<p>It is claimed that an artificial cajeput oil is often pre<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span>pared -from camphor and rosemary oil, the green color -being obtained by distillation with milfoil. The -presence of camphor may be readily determined by -thoroughly triturating a few drops of the oil with sugar -and then dissolving in water, whereby the particles of -camphor separate in the form of white flakes upon the -surface.</p> - -<p>Cajeput oil is frequently adulterated with oil of turpentine -and rosemary oil. Such adulteration is recognized -by pure cajeput oil dissolving clear in equal parts -of 90 per cent. alcohol, which is not the case with the -other two oils.</p> - -<p><i>Camomile or chamomile oil</i> (<i>oleum anthemidis</i>).—Two -varieties of oil of camomile are found in commerce, one -green and the other blue. The first is derived from the -flowers of the genuine or Roman camomile (<i>Anthemis -nobilis</i>) and the blue from the common variety (<i>Matricaria -chamomila</i>). The last oil is the one chiefly used -in the manufacture of perfumery and in medicine.</p> - -<p><i>Blue camomile oil</i> is generally obtained by distillation. -In distilling, metal Florentine flasks should be used, as -the oil adheres tenaciously to glass vessels and the distillate -has to be treated with ether. The pure oil has a -beautiful blue color, and on heating forms blue vapors. -It has a penetrating odor which only by strong dilution -becomes similar to that of camomile. By storing in -the light and the simultaneous presence of air, the oil -turns green; later on, brown, and is finally converted -into a thickly-fluid, brownish mass.</p> - -<p><i>Green camomile oil</i> from the genuine or Roman camomile -possesses an agreeable odor of fresh lemons; it is -more seldom used than the other.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span></p> - -<p>On account of the slight yield obtained from the -flowers, camomile oil is rather expensive.</p> - -<p><i>Caraway oil</i> (<i>oleum carui</i>) is obtained by distillation -from the seeds of the well-known aromatic plant <i>Carum -carui</i>, or the caraway, natural order <i>Umbelliferæ</i>. In a -fresh, purified state the oil is colorless, very thinly-fluid -and possesses a pungent taste. The oil prepared from -cleansed Dutch seed is best liked, while that distilled -from Norwegian or Tyrolese seed is not much in demand, -its taste and odor not being so pure on account of the -many impurities mixed with these kinds of seed.</p> - -<p>Caraway oil consists mainly of a terpene, C<sub>10</sub>H<sub>16</sub>, -called <i>carvene</i>, specific gravity 0.870, and of <i>carvol</i>, specific -gravity 0.960. The richer the oil in carvol, the -higher its specific gravity. Good caraway oil should -have a specific gravity of 0.900 to 0.910. The carvol -being the actual bearer of the aroma, the value of the -oil exclusively depends on the content of it. In the -better varieties of oil, the content of carvol amounts to -from 45 to 50 per cent., while poorer qualities generally -contain only from 40 to 42 per cent. The carvol and -carvene are now frequently separated by fractional distillation. -The carvol, which has three times as strong -an odor and taste as the carvene, dissolves with much -greater facility in alcohol. The carvene being offered -at very low prices might be suitable for perfuming cheap -soaps.</p> - -<p>Caraway oil obtained by distillation from the plant -has a less agreeable odor than that from the seed, and -possesses an acrid resinous taste.</p> - -<p>The purity of caraway oil is recognized by its dissolving -clear in equal parts of 90 per cent. alcohol. If such<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> -is not the case, the oil contains either an admixture of -oil of turpentine or does not possess the full normal -content of carvol. Pure caraway oil does not detonate -with iodine, which is the case with oil containing oil of -turpentine.</p> - -<p>Caraway oil is chiefly used for perfuming soap; for -handkerchief perfumes it is not suitable.</p> - -<p><i>Cedar oil</i> (<i>oleum cedri</i>) is obtained by distillation from -the shavings of the wood of the American or Virginia -cedar (<i>Juniperus virginiana</i>). For the distillation of oil -the waste falling off in the manufacture of lead-pencils -is almost exclusively used. It yields about 2 to 3 per -cent. of oil. The oil is thinly-fluid, of specific gravity -0.9622, of a greenish color, and an agreeable but not -very penetrating odor. It is a mixture of a terpene, -boiling at about 540° F., and of a hydrocarbon. The -latter, which is called <i>cidrin</i>, forms the fluid portion of -the oil. It has a specific gravity of 0.984, and boils -at about 459° F.</p> - -<p>Cedar oil is extensively used in the manufacture of -toilet soap, it serving as the basis for other perfumes. -Care must, however, be taken that its odor does not -preponderate, as in such case it readily produces an unpleasant -effect. The oil being cheap, adulteration is -scarcely to be feared.</p> - -<p>A volatile oil is also obtained by distillation from the -leaves of the <i>Juniperus virginiana</i>. In odor it resembles -savin oil, and is unfit for perfuming purposes.</p> - -<p><i>Cherry-laurel oil</i> (<i>oleum laurocerasi</i>) is the volatile oil, -which contains prussic acid, obtained from the leaves of -the cherry-laurel (<i>Prunus laurocerasus, L.</i>). Like bitter -almonds, the leaves contain some amygdalin. Hence<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> -they are macerated with water and allowed to stand in -a warm place for 24 hours. By subsequent distillation -a volatile oil is obtained which closely resembles oil of -bitter almonds, but differs in some respects. It is colorless -or yellowish, rarely reddish, and of specific gravity -1.05 to 1.06. In its behavior towards air, solvents, and -reagents, it does not essentially differ from oil of bitter -almonds.<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a></p> - -<p>To detect oil of mirbane in cherry-laurel oil, Enrico -Pega adds some alcohol to the oil to be tested and then -mixes it with some alcoholic potash lye and a few drops -of ferric chloride solution. After standing for a few -hours the mixture is shaken and distilled. A small -portion of the oil distilling over is freed from water, -poured upon a few small pieces of pure caustic potash -in a test-tube, and heated over a lamp. If the sample -is pure it remains colorless; in the presence of oil of -mirbane it acquires a dark coloration in consequence of -the formation of nitrobenzide and aniline, a few drops -of calcium chloride solution brought into the mixture -producing, for this reason, a violet coloration.</p> - -<p>Cherry laurel oil is but seldom used for perfuming -purposes.</p> - -<p><i>Cinnamon oils.</i>—There are four different kinds of this -oil, viz., <i>Ceylon cinnamon oil</i>, <i>cassia oil</i>, <i>cinnamon root -oil</i>, and <i>oil of cinnamon leaves</i>. Though the first two -are very much alike, the Ceylon oil is considered the -best.</p> - -<p><i>Ceylon cinnamon oil</i> (<i>oleum cinnamoni ceylonici</i>).—Formerly -this oil was exclusively distilled from chips<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> -and waste of the genuine cinnamon bark of the <i>Cinnamonum -ceylonicum, Nees</i>, and came into commerce from -Ceylon. However, the fabrication of the oil from cinnamon -waste or chips is now extensively carried on in -Germany, and this oil, being prepared with the assistance -of more perfect apparatus, has almost entirely supplanted -that exported from Ceylon.</p> - -<p>When fresh, the Ceylon oil is colorless, but when -stored for some time it becomes first golden yellow and -later on brownish. It is thickly-fluid and heavier than -water, its specific gravity being 1.060 to 1.090. It has -an agreeable, aromatic odor and a biting but pure, sweet -taste. Its principal constituent is cinnamaldehyde -(C<sub>9</sub>H<sub>8</sub>O), and it contains, besides, 4 to 8 per cent. of -eugenol. The presence of the latter in cinnamon oil -may be established by shaking with 15 per cent. soda-solution, -whereby the eugenol is dissolved, and decomposing -the aqueous solution with hydrochloric acid. -The eugenol separated thereby gives in alcoholic solution, -when compounded with a trace of ferric chloride, -a beautiful blue color.</p> - -<p><i>Cassia oil</i> (<i>oleum cassiæ</i>).—In China and Cochin China -this oil is obtained by distillation from the bark, unripe -fruits, buds, and other waste of the <i>Cinnamonum cassia</i> -or <i>Cinnamonum aromaticum, Nees</i>, a tree indigenous to -those countries. It has a pale yellow color, which in -time becomes brown. It is thickly-fluid, of specific -gravity 1.05 to 1.07, and possesses a sweet taste with -an acrid after-taste. Like cinnamon oil, it consists -chiefly of cinnamaldehyde, but contains no eugenol, and -hence can be readily distinguished from Ceylon oil by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> -the above-mentioned reaction. One part of pure cassia -oil dissolves in two parts of 80 per cent. alcohol.</p> - -<p><i>Cinnamon root oil and oil of cinnamon leaves.</i>—Neither -of these oils contains cinnamaldehyde, but abundant -quantities of eugenol, the root oil as much as 50 to 70 -per cent. The root oil is quite limpid and has an -agreeable odor of cinnamon and cloves. The leaf oil -is thickly-fluid, of the consistency of castor oil.</p> - -<p>The Ceylon oil is frequently adulterated with cassia -oil. Such adulteration is very difficult to detect, and -can only be recognized by experts by the odor and taste.</p> - -<p>The quality of cassia oil is recognized by the taste and -odor, especially on heating, and the high specific gravity, -in consequence of which the oil sinks in water. According -to Hager, cassia oil is frequently adulterated with -oil of cloves. This is, however, scarcely probable, the -price of oil of cloves being, on an average, higher than -that of cassia oil. The latter, however, is frequently -adulterated with cheaper thickly-fluid volatile oils, especially -with cedar oil. In this case the oil does not -dissolve in the above-mentioned proportion in alcohol.</p> - -<p>The value of cassia oil is dependent on its contents -of cinnamaldehyde. Hence, the establishment of its -actual value requires a quantitative determination of its -contents of cinnamaldehyde, which unfortunately presents -great difficulties. For this purpose Schimmel & -Co. proceed indirectly as follows: 75 grammes of cassia -oil in a capacious boiling flask are mixed with 300 -grammes of a boiling-hot 30 per cent. solution of acid -sodium sulphite, whereby cinnamaldehyde-sodium sulphite -is immediately separated. The whole is then -vigorously agitated and allowed to rest for a short time.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span> -(With oils rich in aldehyde considerable heating generally -takes place, which must eventually be moderated -by the addition of cold water.) Next add about 200 -grammes of hot water and heat the whole, with frequent -shaking, in the water-bath until the combination of the -aldehyde with the acid-sodium sulphite is <i>completely</i> -dissolved, and the non-aldehydes in the form of an oily -layer float upon the solution of the aldehyde salt. Now -allow the whole to cool, then shake twice with ether; -first, with about 200 cubic centimeters, and then with -100; combine the ethereal extracts of the non-aldehydes -separated by means of a separatory funnel, and filter -them into a capacious, previously-weighed beaker provided -with a platinum wire, the lower end of which is -bent in the form of a spiral. Now evaporate the ether -as much as possible, by placing the beaker in hot water. -When by swinging the beaker the remaining fluid no -longer foams up, allow to cool off and weigh. Now -return the beaker-glass to the water-bath for ten minutes, -weigh again after cooling, and repeat the operation -until the difference between two weighings does not -amount to more than 0.3 gramme at the utmost. The -weighing <i>previous to the last</i> is taken as the correct one.<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a></p> - -<p>The weight of the non-aldehydes thus obtained is -deducted from the cassia oil used, the difference giving -the content of cinnamaldehyde in the latter.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span></p> - -<p>For example:—</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table class="smtab" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"> Used 79.71 grammes of oil.</td><td></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left" colspan="2">First weighing of the beaker after evaporating the ether</td><td align="right">147.55</td><td align="left"> grammes</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left" colspan="2">Second </td><td align="right">146.84</td><td align="left"> "</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left" colspan="2">Third </td><td align="right">146.58</td><td align="left"> "</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">Tare of the beaker </td><td align="right">128.34</td><td align="left"> "</td></tr> -<tr><td></td><td align="left">Hence non-aldehydes in the oil</td><td align="left">146.84 grammes.</td><td></td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td align="left">Less tare</td><td align="left">128.34 "</td><td></td></tr> -<tr><td></td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">———</td><td></td></tr> -<tr><td></td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">= 18.50 grammes.</td><td></td></tr> -<tr><td></td><td align="left">Calculated to per cent., 23.1 per cent.</td><td></td><td></td></tr> -<tr><td></td><td align="left">100 - 23.1 = 76.9 per cent. cinnamaldehyde.</td><td></td><td></td></tr> -</table></div> - - -<p>By accurately following the directions given, the difference -between two controlling determinations will be -only a few tenths per cent., seldom as much as 1 per -cent. For practical purposes, for which alone this -method is intended, this is more than sufficient.</p> - -<p>According to the reports of Schimmel & Co., all the -cassia oil brought into commerce from China was for a -considerable time adulterated with resin and petroleum, -they having found as much as 30 per cent. of resin in -the oil. Such adulteration can be established by the -determination of the specific gravity and distilling the -oil. Good cassia oil should show a specific gravity of -1.05 to 1.07 at 59° F., and by distillation 90 per cent. -of pure cassia oil must pass over. The residue should -not solidify after cooling and acquire the character of a -brittle resin; it must remain at least thickly-fluid, and -under no conditions amount to more than 10 per cent.</p> - -<p><i>Citron oil</i> (<i>oleum citri</i>), from the peel of the fruit of -<i>Citrus medica</i> or the citron tree. The oil is prepared in -a similar manner to that of oil of bergamot, either by -expression or distillation, the latter process yielding more -and purer oil.</p> - -<p>Rectified citron oil is colorless, of an agreeable pene<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span>trating -odor and acrid taste, and very sensitive to light -and air. By exposure to light it turns yellow, and if air -be admitted at the same time, it is first converted into -a fluid which, on account of its content of ozone, possesses -strong bleaching powers. The oil at the same -time acquires a disagreeable odor, resembling that of -oil of turpentine, and is finally converted into a resinous -mass.</p> - -<p>Citron oil is frequently adulterated with oil of orange -and sometimes with oil of bergamot. These adulterations -are readily detected by an experienced person by -the odor, this being in fact the best guide. The specific -gravity of citron oil is 0.850 at 59° F.; it boils at -from 332.6° to 343.4° F. and congeals at 4° F.</p> - -<p><i>Citronella oil</i> (<i>oleum citronellæ</i>) is chiefly distilled in -Ceylon from the lemon grass, <i>Andropogon Nardus, L.</i> -It is quite limpid, of a greenish-yellow to brown color, -and has an odor resembling that of genuine citron oil. -Its specific gravity is 0.896 at 59° F., and it boils at -from 392° to 410° F. Of the various oils reaching the -market that with the trade-mark "Fisher" is most -in demand, it being distinguished by special purity. -Edward Kremers has found in citronella oil an aldehyde, -C<sub>7</sub>H<sub>14</sub>O, a terpene, C<sub>10</sub>H<sub>16</sub>, citronellol, which is -isomeric with borneol; further, acetic acid and valerianic -acid.</p> - -<p>The Indian distillers, it is claimed, adulterate the -citronella oil with petroleum, an addition up to 25 per -cent. being not uncommon.</p> - -<p>According to experiments by Schimmel & Co., pure -citronella oil must give a clear solution, when 1 part -of the oil is vigorously shaken with 10 parts of 80 per<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> -cent. alcohol. If, in executing the test, the kind of turbidity -is observed, and whether the portion insoluble -in alcohol separates, after standing, upon the surface or -on the bottom of the fluid, and further, if the above-mentioned -quantity of alcohol is not added at one time, -but at first only 1 or 2 parts of it, a conclusion may be -drawn as to the kind and quantity of the adulterant.</p> - -<p>Petroleum causes a milky-white turbidity, while in -the presence of fat oil the mixture becomes turbid, but -not actually milky. As a rule, fat oil deposits, after -standing, on the bottom, while petroleum floats upon -the surface of the fluid. Citronella oil adulterated with -fat oil does not dissolve in 1 to 2 parts nor in 10 parts -of 80 per cent. alcohol, while oil adulterated with not -too large a quantity of petroleum, gives a clear solution -with 1 to 2 parts. The determination of the specific -gravity may also serve for the detection of adulterations. -This holds good, however, only for petroleum, which -reduces the specific gravity, an addition of fat oil producing -no deviation in this respect. The specific gravity -of the oil should not be below 0.895 at 59° F.</p> - -<p>Citronella oil is much used for perfuming cheap hair -oils and toilet soaps; it is the chief constituent of all -perfumes for honey-soaps. In the American soap industry -it is extensively used, the yearly consumption -being estimated at 1½ million ounces.</p> - -<p><i>Cloves, oil of</i> (<i>oleum caryophylli</i>), is obtained by distillation -with steam, or by extraction from the cloves of -commerce, which are the dried unexpanded flower buds -of <i>Caryophyllus aromaticus, L.</i>, or the clove tree. Oil -of cloves, when fresh, is almost colorless, but on exposure -to air acquires a brownish coloration and a thickly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> -fluid consistency. It has the aromatic taste and odor of -cloves, and a specific gravity of 1.300 to 1.065. It frequently -shows a slightly acid reaction, boils at 482° F., -and congeals at 4° F. It is readily soluble in alcohol, -ether, and strong acetic acid. It consists of a terpene -(C<sub>10</sub>H<sub>16</sub>) and eugenol (C<sub>10</sub>H<sub>12</sub>O<sub>2</sub>), the odor of the oil -being due to the latter. The terpene has a specific -gravity of 0.918, and in distilling passes over first (light -oil of cloves). The eugenol, when fresh, is colorless, -has the odor and taste of cloves, a specific gravity of -1.063 at 65° F., boils at 487.4° F., is insoluble in water -and glycerin, but soluble in alcohol, ether and glacial -acetic acid. Its alcoholic solution is colored magnificently -blue by ferric chloride. If in an alkaline solution -it is oxidized with potassium permanganate, vanillin -being formed.</p> - -<p>An inferior quality of oil is obtained from the stems -of the clove buds. It dissolves with greater difficulty -than the oil prepared from the buds, and has a darker -red-brown color.</p> - -<p>To test the value of oil of cloves, introduce, according -to Stohman, into a graduated glass cylinder 10 volumes -ether, 10 oil of cloves, and 30 of a 10-per cent. soda -solution. After vigorous shaking, the eugenol dissolves; -the increase in volume of the aqueous fluid is then proportional -to the quantity of eugenol present. For more -exact determinations, dissolve a weighed quantity of -oil, repeatedly shake the aqueous fluid with ether to remove -the terpene, then decompose the eugenol-sodium -with dilute sulphuric acid, dissolve the separated eugenol -in ether and weigh after evaporating the ethereal fluid.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> -Good oil of cloves does not contain less than 80 per -cent. of eugenol, and frequently 90 per cent. or more.</p> - -<p>Oil of cloves is chiefly adulterated with copaiba oil -and cedar oil. Such adulteration is recognized by the -oil not forming a clear solution in every proportion with -alcohol, as is the case with pure oil of cloves.</p> - -<p>Oil of cloves is much used for perfuming purposes.</p> - -<p><i>Eucalyptus oil</i> (<i>oleum eucalypti</i>) is obtained from the -leaves of various trees of the eucalyptus family. According -to Merk two kinds of oil must be strictly kept -apart: <i>oleum eucalypti</i> from the leaves of <i>eucalyptus -globulus</i> and <i>oleum eucalypti australe</i>, the former being -used in medicine, and the latter, which is considerably -cheaper, chiefly for perfuming purposes. However, -Piesse's opinion that eucalyptus oil, as far as its odor is -concerned, does not deserve to be classed among perfumes -is undoubtedly correct. It has an odor between -that of oil of turpentine and cajeput oil, and as long as -perfumery is the art of sweet odors, such oil cannot be -designated a perfume.</p> - -<p>When not rectified, eucalyptus oil is mostly yellowish -or bluish. In a rectified state it is colorless, clear, -limpid, lighter than water, of a strong odor, and acrid -taste. The oil from <i>eucalyptus globulus</i> has a specific -gravity of 0.900 to 0.925, and dissolves in every proportion -in 90 per cent. alcohol. It is optically inactive -or turns the plane of polarization slightly to the right. -On standing with sodium it acquires a yellowish coloration, -and does not detonate with iodine. The oil from -<i>eucalyptus australe</i> has a specific gravity of 0.86 to 0.87, -and is but sparingly soluble in 90 per cent. alcohol, so -that even a solution prepared in the proportion of 1:15<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> -is turbid. It turns the plane of polarization strongly to -the left; acquires, on standing with sodium, a red coloration, -and detonates with iodine.</p> - -<p>Eucalyptus oil consists of eucalyptol and eucalyptene, -and perhaps other hydrocarbons. The content of the -first, on which depends the medicinal value of the oil, -varies very much in the oils from the different species -of eucalyptus, the oil from some species, it is said, containing -no eucalyptol whatever.</p> - -<p>Eucalyptol (C<sub>24</sub>H<sub>20</sub>O<sub>2</sub>) is limpid, colorless, turns the -plane of polarization, has a specific gravity of 0.905, -and boils at 347° F. Its vapor mixed with air has an -agreeable, refreshing taste, and its dilute solutions remind -one of roses. Eucalyptene (C<sub>24</sub>H<sub>18</sub>) has a specific -gravity of 0.836, and boils at 329° F.</p> - -<p><i>Fennel oil</i> (<i>oleum fœniculi</i>) is derived by distillation -from the fruits of <i>Fœniculum vulgare, Gaertner</i>. Large -quantities of it are produced in Saxony, and also -in Galicea. It is quite colorless, limpid, of specific -gravity 0.940 to 0.970 and, with a full content of stearoptene, -possesses a nauseous sweet taste and odor. It -contains 60 to 70 per cent. of anethol and congeals at -from 41° to 50° F. to a crystalline mass. The leaves -of the plant also contain a volatile oil, which is, however, -less valued than the seed-oil.</p> - -<p>Good fennel oil should dissolve clear in 1 to 2 parts -of 90 per cent. alcohol. Direct adulterations of this -oil do not occur, but the stearoptene is frequently withdrawn -by fractional distillation whereby the oil loses -much in value. Such oil freed from stearoptene does -not congeal, has a more bitter than sweet taste and does -not dissolve in the above-mentioned proportion in alcohol.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span></p> - -<p>In perfumery fennel oil is but little used; sometimes -in connection with other volatile oils for perfuming -soaps.</p> - -<p><i>Geranium oil</i>, <i>palmarosa oil</i>, <i>Turkish geranium oil</i> is -obtained from <i>Andropogon Pachnodes</i>. It is yellowish, -limpid, of specific gravity 0.890 at 59° F., possesses a -very agreeable rose-like odor resembling that of geranium -oils from <i>Pelargonium radula, Aiton</i>, and for -this reason is generally designated as Turkish geranium -oil. The odor of the oil is improved by shaking it with -water containing lemon juice, any content of copper -being thereby removed. The washed oil is then brought -into shallow dishes and exposed for two or three weeks -to the sun, whereby its odor becomes still more like that -of rose oil. The oil thus prepared is much used for -adulterating rose oil. Turkish geranium oil is also -much used for the adulteration of genuine geranium oil -and is itself adulterated with oil of turpentine. It is -extensively employed in perfumery, especially for perfuming -hair oils and pomades, and in conjunction with -geranium oils for rose soap.</p> - -<p><i>East Indian geranium oil</i> is obtained, chiefly in the -Presidency of Bombay, from <i>Andropogon Schoenantus, -L.</i> It is greenish-yellow to yellow-brown, has a specific -gravity of 0.906 at 59° F., and consists mainly of -geraniol (C<sub>10</sub>H<sub>18</sub>O). Its odor is rose-like, though modified -by a lemon-like odor. It is principally used for -perfuming cheaper articles.</p> - -<p><i>French and African geranium oils</i> (<i>oleum geranii</i>) are -obtained by distillation with water from the leaves of -various species of pelargonium. Many different kinds -of this oil are found in commerce. The finest and most<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> -expensive are the Spanish and French geranium oils, so-called -<i lang="fr">rosé</i>, which are distinguished by their fine odor, -closely resembling that of rose oil. They are derived -from <i>Pelargonium radula</i>, and are either yellowish, -brownish, or pale green, the brownish oils being preferred. -It congeals at 60.8° F. and turns the plane of -polarization to the right. Another good geranium oil is -the African, which is chiefly prepared in Algiers from -<i>Pelargonium roseum</i>, <i>Wildenow</i>, and <i>P. odoratissimum, -Aiton</i>. It closely resembles the French oil, but turns -the plane of polarization to the left.</p> - -<p>French geranium oil is said to be frequently adulterated -with fat or copaiba oil; but geranium oil being -soluble in 70 per cent. alcohol, such adulterations are -readily detected. Add to 5 cubic centimeters of 70 per -cent. alcohol (specific gravity 0.890) at 59° to 62.5° F., -10 drops of the oil, and shake. If a clear solution results -the oil is very likely unadulterated.</p> - -<p>The so-called Turkish geranium oil is frequently -found mixed with cocoanut oil. To detect this, place -the oil in a test-tube in ice or a cold mixture for several -hours, whereby the cocoanut oil separates as a white -substance. Adulterations of upward to 20 per cent. are -said to frequently occur.</p> - -<p>Reliable tests to detect an adulteration of the better -qualities of geranium oil with those of a lower grade -do not exist, the odor being the only guide.</p> - -<p><i>Jasmine oil</i> or <i>oil of jessamine</i>, from the flowers of -<i>Jasminium officinale, L.</i>, and <i>J. grandiflorum</i>.—The oil -is exclusively obtained by the absorption process, and -is the most prized by the perfumer. It is, however, exceedingly -rare on account of the enormous cost of its<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> -production. The extract of jasmine, the "essence de jasmine" -of the French manufactories, is a solution of the -oil, as obtained by extraction with lard or beef suet, in -strong spirit of wine. The odor of jasmine oil is so -peculiar that it is without comparison, and as such -cannot be imitated.</p> - -<p><i>Juniper oil</i> (<i>oleum juniperi</i>) is obtained by distillation -from the fruits of <i>Juniperus communis, L.</i>, or juniper. -The berries used for the purpose should be fully grown -and fresh and bruised before being placed in the still. -Unripe berries yield a smaller quantity and an oil of -somewhat different properties than ripe berries. The -oil obtained by distillation with steam is colorless and -that by ordinary distillation yellowish, the former having -a specific gravity of 0.840 to 0.860 and the latter -of 0.850 to 0.900. It consists mainly of terpenes. By -standing, a stearoptene is separated, which crystallizes in -feathery needles from hot spirit of wine. The odor and -taste of juniper oil remind one at the same time of juniper -berries and oil of turpentine.</p> - -<p>Juniper oil has a great tendency to thicken; it becomes -resinous, acid and thickly fluid, formic acid being -formed. It should be kept in well-closed bottles, and -protected from light. It is frequently adulterated with -oil of turpentine and juniper-wood oil. It may be tested -by its behavior towards alcohol, as well as by the taste. -A drop of the oil rubbed up with sugar, and shaken -with 500 grammes of water, should not impart an acrid -taste to the water. Juniper oil gives a clear solution -with ½ part absolute alcohol; by a larger quantity it is -rendered turbid.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Lavender oil</i> (<i>oleum lavandulæ</i>.)—Large quantities of -this oil are distilled in Southern France, in the neighborhood -of Grasse and Nimes, from the flowers of -<i>lavandula officinalis, Chaix</i>, which grows wild in that -region. It is limpid, colorless, or yellowish, has a strong -odor and a pungent, aromatic, somewhat bitter taste. -With 90 per cent. alcohol it mixes clear in every proportion, -boils at 320° F., and has a specific gravity of -0.876 to 0.905. It turns the plane of polarization to -the left.</p> - -<p>The best French lavender oil, distilled from pure -flowers only, is brought into commerce under the name, -"Essence de Lavande Montblanc." It is distinguished -from all other kinds, in the preparation of which more -or less stems and leaves are used, by its extremely agreeable -odor.</p> - -<p>Lavender is also extensively cultivated in Mitchan -and Hitchin, England, and used for the preparation -of an especially fine oil, the odor of which surpasses -even that of the best French product. It is, however, -comparatively expensive.</p> - -<p>From the leaves and flowers of <i>lavandula spica</i> the -<i>spike oil</i> is obtained by distillation. It is colorless, or -yellow, and in odor approaches rosemary oil more than -lavender oil. Its boiling point, like that of lavender -oil, is at 366.8° F., and its specific gravity 0.96. Spike -oil turns the plane of polarization only slightly to the -left, the deviation scarcely ever exceeding 0.8°.</p> - -<p>Lavender oils are very sensitive to light and air, they -becoming ozonized under their influence, and acquire an -odor like turpentine. Hence they must be kept in well-closed -vessels in a dark place.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span></p> - -<p>Oil of lavender is frequently adulterated, chiefly with -alcohol, fat oils, oil of turpentine, and spike oil. To -test the oil, mix a drop of it with 10 cubic centimeters -of warm water, and test the odor, which should be pure -and agreeably lavender-like. The taste of the vigorously -agitated water should be transiently bitter aromatic. -One volume of the oil should give a turbid mixture -with one volume of dilute alcohol (specific gravity -0.895), but a perfectly clear one with three volumes. -On shaking 0.5 cubic centimeter of the oil with a few -grains of rosaniline it remains uncolored, but, in the -presence of even a trace of alcohol, it acquires a red -coloration. By mixing in a graduated cylinder equal -volumes of the oil and distilled water, and shaking -vigorously, the oil, after the water has settled, shows a -decrease in volume if alcohol be present. The presence -of fat oil can be readily recognized by bringing a drop -of the oil to be tested upon filtering paper; a grease -stain is formed, which disappears neither at the ordinary -temperature nor by heating. Adulteration with -oil of turpentine is recognized by the boiling point, that -of oil of turpentine being 312.8° F., and that of oil of -lavender, as previously stated, 366.8° F.</p> - -<p>Spike oil should mix clear with equal parts of 90 per -cent. alcohol; the contrary would indicate adulteration -with oil of turpentine.</p> - -<p>For perfumery, lavender oil is of great importance, -it being much employed by itself, as well as mixed with -other oils.</p> - -<p><i>Lemon oil</i> (<i>oleum limonis</i>) is obtained by various processes -from the rinds of lemons. The best and most -delicately-scented oil is obtained by the so-called sponge<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> -process in use in Southern Italy and Sicily. The rinds -are soaked from fifteen to twenty-five minutes in water, -to which sometimes a little soda is added. They are -taken up singly in the right hand and the outer surface -of each is firmly pressed against a large and rather -hard-grained sponge held in the left hand and secured -by a strap. Two or three sharp turns of the wrist impart -what may be called a screw-pressure to the rind, -thus effectually fracturing the oil cells, the sponge absorbing -the contents. The sponge is constantly held -over an earthen jar and occasionally squeezed into it. -The fluid in the jar quickly separates into three different -products—the dregs or deposit of mucilaginous and -cellular matter, some fruit juice, and the pure oil, which -floats on the top. The latter, when bright and clear, is -passed, by means of a small glass siphon, into the cans -of thin copper, in which, after sealing, it is stored -away for export.</p> - -<p>The above described primitive mode of fabrication -furnishes the most highly prized oils of commerce; they -are called hand-pressed oils or <i lang="fr">essences preparées a -l'éponge</i>. In the same manner are obtained the oils from -the sweet and bitter pomegranate, the bergamotte, and -mandarin orange.</p> - -<p>Another method of expressing the oil is that of the -<i lang="fr">écuelle à piquer</i>, much used in the region about Nice. -The oils obtained by this method, which are also of a -very fine quality, are marked <i lang="fr">essence à l'écuelle</i> or <i lang="fr">au -zeste</i>. The apparatus consists of a round shallow pan -of copper or brass, having a receptacle for the oil at its -lowest part and a lip on one side for pouring, and -studded on its concavity by strong blunt spikes. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> -workman takes the fruit and rolls it gently but quickly -around the inside of the <i lang="fr">écuelle</i>; the spikes prick the -oil sacs, whereupon the oil, running down the spikes and -the concavity of the pan, collects in the reservoir at the -lowest part. The oil is filtered and then poured into -clean glass bottles, in which the impurities are allowed -to settle.</p> - -<p>In Reggio, where especially much bergamot oil is -manufactured, sheet-metal bowl-like vessels, studded -inside with sharp ribs, are used. Six to eight fruits are -placed in the vessel. A movable lid closes the vessel, -so that there is just enough space for the fruits between -the lid and the bottom of the vessel. If now the lid be -revolved by hand-or steam-power, the rinds of the fruit -are torn apart, and the oil together with the juice runs -through the sieve-bottom of the apparatus into a cylindrical -vessel where it clarifies.</p> - -<p>The third method of obtaining the oil is by <i>expression</i>. -The grated rind is placed in hair mats, and subjected to -powerful pressure by means of a screw or lever press.</p> - -<p>The process of <i>distillation</i> is carried on as follows: -The peels, which should be from select fruit, are sprinkled -with powdered salt, and a few hours afterwards sufficient -water to moisten them is poured over them. A day or -two afterwards more water is added, and the whole is -distilled until either no more oil separates or the steam, -at first purely fragrant, begins to acquire a rank and -rather unpleasant smell. The oil obtained by distillation -is inferior to the others.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<div class="caption">Fig. 20.</div> -<img src="images/fig_20.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>Lately a combination of the écuelle and distilling processes -has been introduced by Domenico Monfalcone,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> -which has given excellent results. It is shown in Fig. -20. <i>F F</i> is a hollow cylinder, of sheet-iron, the interior -surface of which is studded with a large number of -small metallic knife-points. This cylinder revolves on -two axles attached to it at diagonally opposite points. -The cylinder having been half-charged with lemons, -together with a small quantity of water, is set in motion -by aid of the shafting and pulleys driven by the small -steam engine. The fruits are thereby made to come in -contact with the metallic lancets, and their whole surface -gradually becomes punctured sufficiently to rupture the -cells containing the volatile oil, which escapes. The -cylinder <i>F F</i> has double walls, the space between them -being intended for the circulation of a current of steam, -which is admitted to heat the water and to facilitate the -extraction of the oil, while at the same time the vapors are -rarefied or aspirated by the vacuum pump <i>L</i>. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> -axles of the cylinder on both sides are hollow; that on -the side looking towards the engine is imbedded in -such a manner that steam from the boiler <i>D</i> may be admitted -at will, either into the double walls of the cylinder, -or into the interior of the cylinder itself, while -the hollow passage in the other axle communicates with -a condensing worm, <i>G</i>, the outlet of which, <i>H</i>, descends -into a cylindrical vessel, <i>I</i>, intended to receive the condensed -products, consisting of water and volatile oil. -When the apparatus is first set in motion the pump <i>L</i> -begins to produce a vacuum during the first revolutions -of the cylinder. Steam being now cautiously admitted -into the double walls of the cylinder, the water is raised -to boiling at a comparatively low temperature, and the -vapors charged with the volatile oil pass over into the -receptacle, where they separate into two layers. The -product obtained by this process is claimed to be equal -in quality to that obtained by mechanical means, and -the yield nearly double.</p> - -<p>During the months of November to March the average -yield from 1000 lemons in the factories of Palermo is -320 grammes of oil; in those of Messina, where a better -quality of fruit is employed, the yield is about 400 -grammes. The same number of lemons yield about -10 gallons of juice, the collection of which is, of course, -a necessary accompaniment of the manufacture of volatile -oil.</p> - -<p>Pure oil of lemons is almost colorless and has the -odor of the fruit. Its specific gravity varies between -0.8752 and 0.8785; it boils at 298.4° F., and is soluble -in all proportions in absolute alcohol and glacial acetic -acid. It contains, according to G. Bouchardat and J.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> -Lafont, besides a little cymene, several hydrocarbons, the -most abundant of which is citrene, C<sub>10</sub>H<sub>16</sub>, boiling near -352.5° F., having a rotatory power exceeding +105°, -and yielding a solid optically inactive dihydrochloride.</p> - -<p>Oil of lemons is frequently adulterated with oil of turpentine. -This may be detected, according to G. Heppe, -by slowly heating the oil in a dry test-tube with a small -piece of copper butyrate to about 338° F., taking care -that the temperature does not exceed 356°F. The copper -salt will dissolve in pure oil of lemons with a green color, -while in the presence of oil of turpentine a yellow turbid -mixture is obtained, reddish-yellow cuprous oxide being -separated. This test is also applicable to oils of bergamot -and of orange-peel.</p> - -<p><i>Lilac oil</i> is obtained from the flowers of <i>Syringa vulgaris</i>, -the lilac, by aqueous distillation and subsequent -extraction with benzine. It is also frequently prepared -by the absorption process. It is used for the most expensive -perfumes, and is seldom found in commerce.</p> - -<p><i>Limes, oil of</i> (<i>oleum limettæ</i>), is derived from the rind -of the fruit of <i>Citrus limetta</i>, or lime. The oil is obtained -in the same manner as oil of lemons, which it -somewhat resembles. Its mean specific gravity is 0.8734 -at 84° F. The oil made by the écuelle process is of a -decidedly yellow color, varying in intensity, being darker -in the fresh product. The difference in flavor and aroma -is so marked as scarcely to require any other means of -distinguishing the oil made by the écuelle process from -that obtained by distillation, the first having a decided -fragrant lemon smell, whilst the distilled oil is very inferior, -frequently possessing little more than the smell -of turpentine. Large quantities of oil of limes are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> -manufactured in Dominica, but most of the oil exported -from there is of an inferior quality and was -formerly solely used for adulterating oil of lemons. -Lately it has also been employed for scenting soaps and -in the manufacture of the common essences and perfumes.</p> - -<p><i>Licari oil, linaloë oil</i>, is obtained, partially in Mexico -and partially in Cayenne, from the wood of the white -cedar (<i lang="fr">bois de rose femelle</i>), <i>Licari canali</i>. It is limpid, -has an agreeable odor, reminding one of roses, and does -not become solid at 4° F. Its specific gravity is 0.868 -at 59° F., and it boils at 388.4° F.</p> - -<p><i>Marjoram oils.</i>—By distilling the leaves of <i>Origanum -marjorana, L.</i>, the <i>marjoram oil</i> (<i>oleum marjoranæ</i>) is obtained. -It is yellowish or green-yellowish, but becomes -reddish-brown by age. If badly kept it finally becomes -thickly-fluid and sticky, sometimes depositing a reddish -stearoptene. The odor of marjoram oil is less agreeable -than that of the plant, and the taste peculiar, bitter, -cooling. The oil dissolves readily in 90 per cent. -alcohol, and when mixed with equal parts of it yields a -clear solution. Its specific gravity is 0.89 to 0.91. It -should be kept in entirely filled, well-closed bottles in a -shady place. On coming in contact with air, it absorbs -oxygen with avidity and forms a white, odorless, crystalline -mass.</p> - -<p>From <i>Origanum vulgare, L.</i>, the ordinary marjoram -oil (<i>oleum origani vulgaris</i>) is obtained. It is yellowish -or reddish, limpid, of specific gravity 0.90 to 0.95, and -has a camphor-like odor.</p> - -<p><i>Spanish marjoram</i> (<i>oleum origani cretici</i>) is obtained -by distillation from the flowering plants of several -varieties of marjoram (<i>Or. creticum</i>, <i>Or. hirtum</i>, <i>Or.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span> -smyrnæum</i>). It is brought into commerce from Trieste, -Smyrna, Salonica, and other Mediterranean seaports. -The oil exported from France appears to be derived -from another variety of marjoram; at least it shows a -different behavior and approaches more the ordinary -marjoram oil. The genuine oil is thickly-fluid, generally -yellow-brown; of specific gravity O.95 to O.97; has a -strong, aromatic odor, and produces upon the tongue a -sharp continued burning. It dissolves in equal parts of -90 per cent. alcohol. It is chiefly adulterated with -copaiba oil, the presence of which can be recognized by -the oil dissolving with greater difficulty.</p> - -<p>The marjoram oils are but little used for perfuming -purposes.</p> - -<p><i>Mignonette oil</i> (<i>oleum résédæ</i>). The well-known -mignonette, <i>Réséda odoratissima</i>, yields a thick yellowish -oil, either by maceration and absorption, or by -extraction with ether or petroleum-ether. It has a penetrating, -disagreeable odor, which can only be rendered -agreeable by greatly diluting the oil. In gathering -the flowers care must be had not to mix them with -leaves, as this spoils the odor of the oil.</p> - -<p><i>Myrrh oil</i> (<i>oleum myrthæ</i>) is obtained from the leaves -of <i>Myrtus communis, L.</i> It is yellowish, dextrorotatory, -of specific gravity 0.910 at 60.8° F., and commences to -boil at 320° F. As its principal constituents, Jahns -has established a terpene (C<sub>10</sub>H<sub>16</sub>), boiling at from 316.4° -to 320° F., and turning the plane of polarization to -the right, and cineol (C<sub>10</sub>H<sub>16</sub>O), which boils at 348.8° -F. Besides these principal constituents there seems to -be present a very small quantity of a camphor, corresponding -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span>very likely to the formula C<sub>10</sub>H<sub>16</sub>O. Myrtol, which -was formerly supposed to exist in myrtle oil, has been -found to be a mixture of the dextrorotatory terpene and -of cineol.</p> - -<p><i>Nutmeg oils.</i>—From mace, the fresh aril of the -nutmeg (<i>Myristica fragrans, Houtt</i>, natural order -<i>Myristicaceæ</i>), <i>mace oil</i> (<i>oleum macidis</i>), is obtained by -distillation. It is straw-yellow or yellowish, later on -yellow-reddish, clear, somewhat thickly-fluid, of a strong -odor resembling that of mace, and a taste at first mild, -but later on pungent and aromatic. It mixes clear in -every proportion with absolute alcohol, but of 90 per -cent. alcohol, 5 to 6 volumes are required for a clear -solution. The specific gravity of the oil varies from -0.87 to 0.92. With iodine it detonates, vapors being -emitted. The oil obtained from dried mace has a less -agreeable odor.</p> - -<p>The oil is frequently adulterated with tincture of nutmeg -prepared with absolute alcohol. Such an adulteration, -as well as any content of alcohol, is recognized by -shaking 0.5 cubic centimeter of the oil with a grain of -rosaniline. In the presence of alcohol the oil acquires -a red coloration, while pure oil remains uncolored.</p> - -<p>From the nutmegs, the seed of <i>Myristica fragrans</i>, -freed from the seed-coat and aril, a volatile oil -(<i>oleum nucistæ æthereum</i>) is also obtained by distillation. -It is generally yellowish, seldom colorless, somewhat -thickly-fluid and has the odor and taste of nutmegs. It -is readily soluble in alcohol and ether and of specific -gravity, 0.93 to 0.95. It consists of two oils, one specifically -lighter and fluid, and the other heavy and crystalline. -On standing it deposits a stearoptene, called -myristicin.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span></p> - -<p>The nutmeg oils are but seldom used in perfumery.</p> - -<p><i>Opopanax oil</i> is obtained from opopanax.<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> It is of -gold-yellow color and an agreeable balsamic odor reminding -one somewhat of myrrh. Its specific gravity is -0.9016, and it boils between 392° and 572° F.</p> - -<p>On account of its strength, the oil must be very carefully -handled in perfuming, but if used in the correct -proportion it is very advantageous.</p> - -<p><i>Orange-peel oil</i>, also called <i>Portugal oil</i> or <i>essence of -Portugal</i>, is obtained in Italy from the fresh peels of the -orange, the fruit of <i>Citrus vulgaris, Risso</i>. It is prepared -in a manner similar to that of oil of lemons (which -see). In commerce a distinction is made between the -Messina oil, which is of inferior quality, and the Calabria -oil, which is of a better quality. The Messina oil has a -yellow color, frequently not much darker than that of -oil of lemons, while the color of Calabria oil is dark yellow, -nearly brown. The oil prepared from the peels of -the bitter orange (<i>Citrus bigaradia, Duhamel</i>), is of -the same color as the sweet Messina oil. It is more used -in the preparation of liqueurs than for perfuming. -Orange-peel oils are limpid and have a specific gravity -of 0.819 to 0.9. One part of orange-peel oil should, according -to its age, dissolve clear in 5 to 10 parts of 90 -per cent. alcohol.</p> - -<p>Very similar to orange-peel oil, though differing -somewhat in odor, is the <i>mandarin oil</i> obtained from -the fresh peels of the mandarin orange, the fruit of -<i>Citrus sinensis</i>. It is brought into commerce from -Reggio and is said to form a constituent of the genuine<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> -<i>ess-bouquet</i>. It has a specific gravity of 0.852 at 50° F. -and is dextrorotatory.</p> - -<p>While from the peels the volatile oil is but seldom -obtained by distillation, this process is exclusively used -for gaining volatile oils from the flowers, leaves, and -young branches. In this connection two kinds of volatile -oil have chiefly to be considered, viz: <i>orange-flower -oil</i> and <i>petit-grain oil</i>.</p> - -<p><i>Orange-flower oil</i> or <i>neroli oil</i> (<i>oleum florum aurantii</i>; -<i>ol. neroli</i>; <i>ol. naphæ</i>) is obtained by distillation from the -flowers of the bitter orange; while the flowers of the -sweet orange yield the so-called <i>neroli-Portugal oil</i>, which -is far inferior to the other.</p> - -<p>On the French Riviera, the orange is especially cultivated -for obtaining blossoms and leaves for distilling -purposes. At Cannes, Le Cannet, Golfe-Juan, Vallauris, -Biot, Vence, Le Bar, Antibes, Le Cap, Nice, -and Mentone, the bitter orange, whose flowers are -very numerous and especially suitable for perfumery, is -chiefly cultivated. Cannes and Le Cannet alone possess -150,000 to 160,000 such trees, and Golfe-Juan -and Vallauris 200,000. The flowers harvested in -Golfe-Juan amount to about 700,000 lbs., in Le Cannet -to about 330,000 lbs., at Cannes to about 130,000 lbs., -and in Antibes, Mentone, and Nice to about 260,000 lbs. -One orange tree yields, according to its age, from 2 to -17 lbs. of flowers. The distillation of neroli oil has -also been lately commenced in Sicily and Calabria, but -as far as quality is concerned, the oil thus far brought -into commerce cannot compete with the French oil.</p> - -<p>Oil of orange flowers is at first nearly colorless or -straw-yellow, but becomes reddish-yellow when kept for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> -some time. In a clear glass it opalizes bluish. It is -limpid and has a slightly bitter taste and a strong but -very delicious odor. Its specific gravity varies between -0.85 and 0.90. It is but sparingly soluble in water, -but imparts to the latter an agreeable odor; the solution -is colored red by sulphuric acid. With 1 to 2 parts -of 90 per cent. alcohol, the oil gives a clear solution -which becomes turbid by a further addition of alcohol -and, after standing quietly, a flaky separation of stearoptene -is observed. If not carefully kept the oil becomes -darker and even acquires a disagreeable odor. By rectification -with water oil thus spoiled can be restored. -With sodium the oil does not evolve hydrogen gas; it -detonates with iodine.</p> - -<p>Of the various oils of orange blossoms occurring in -commerce "<i>Neroli petale</i>" is the best.</p> - -<p>Neroli oil being a very expensive oil is exposed to -many adulterations. Mierzinski even asserts that no -genuine unadulterated neroli oil occurs in commerce, because -it is a well-known fact that what is sold as genuine, -pure neroli oil, consists on an average of 4/8 genuine neroli -oil, 1/8 oil of bergamot, and 3/8 petit-grain oil. Furthermore, -it is no secret that besides the flowers of all kinds -of <i>Aurantiaceæ</i>, unripe fruits or fresh peels of ripe fruits -and even young shoots of the branches and leaves are -subjected to distillation. This assertion perhaps goes -too far, but nevertheless it is advisable to procure the -oil only from a thoroughly reliable firm.</p> - -<p>A very frequent adulteration consists in an addition -of petit-grain oil. Such an addition can only be recognized -by the taste and odor. For this purpose add to -3 drops of oil in a small bottle 10 grammes of distilled<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> -water, and, after shaking vigorously, test as to the odor -and taste. According to Chevalier, pour 1 or 2 drops -of the oil upon sugar and stir the latter in water; if the -oil is not genuine the water acquires a bitter taste. -Hager recommends the following test: Mix 3 drops of -the oil in a test-tube with 40 to 50 drops of alcohol; add, -after complete solution, about ⅓ the volume of the solution -of concentrated sulphuric acid, and effect mixture -by careful shaking. Pure oil gives a turbid, reddish, -dark-brown mixture (with old oil, dark brown); almost -all other oils, which may be substituted, give paler-colored -(reddish, red, or ocher-color) mixtures; or, in case the -genuine oil is adulterated with non-genuine, the mixture -exhibits a considerably less dark-color. When this test -has been several times executed with genuine oil, no -room for doubt is left. If the mixture be diluted with -four times its volume of water, it becomes yellowish and -milky.</p> - -<p>The odor of orange flowers is, according to Soubeiran, -due to two volatile oils, of which the one having the -most delicious odor is soluble in water. The other -volatile oil, of which the neroli oil of commerce chiefly -consists, is sparingly soluble in water, and does not possess -such a delicious odor. This is the reason why good -orange-flower water cannot be prepared by saturating -water with neroli oil. The genuine orange-flower water -is obtained as a by-product in distilling the oil.</p> - -<p>Neroli oil is much used for the finer perfumes, it being -especially a necessary constituent of <i lang="fr">eau de Cologne</i>. It -has to be carefully protected from air and light. For -perfuming purposes it is only sufficiently ripe after -having been stored for at least one year. If, however,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> -it becomes too old, it inclines towards rancidity, which -may be prevented by compounding it with an equal -volume of fine spirit. Portugal oil being of inferior -quality can only be used for lower grade products.</p> - -<p><i>Petit grain oil</i> (<i>oleum petit grain</i>) is obtained by distillation -from the leaves, young shoots and unripe fruits -of different <i>Aurantiaceæ</i>. The best oil is that distilled -from the leaves of the bitter orange, it possessing an odor -similar to that of neroli oil, but, of course, not so fine. -Southern France was formerly the chief place for the -production of this oil, but considerable quantities of it -are now manufactured in Paraguay, and the oil at present -brought from there into commerce being of quite a -good quality and considerably cheaper than the French -oil, has almost entirely supplanted the latter.</p> - -<p><i>Orris root, oil of</i> (<i>oleum iridis</i>), is obtained by distillation -with steam from the rhizomes of <i>Iris florentina</i>, -which is cultivated in Southern France, Dalmatia, and -other regions. It has a yellow color and, at an ordinary -temperature, a quite solid consistency like butter -or wax, so that it can be rendered fluid only by heating. -It consists chiefly of a rigid odorless body to which -the liquid odoriferous oil adheres. The solid portion -was formerly designated orris-stearoptene; according to -Flueckiger it is, however, myristic acid.</p> - -<p>Oil of orris root is one of the oils which keep for -years without suffering injury. It is recommended to -keep it in stock in alcoholic solution so that the myristic -acid contained in it may to a certain degree be etherized, -and cannot injuriously affect the odoriferous principle.</p> - -<p>Oil of orris root serves as a substitute and for -strengthening the natural odor of violets. It can, how<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span>ever, -be employed only for very fine expensive perfumery -since, on account of the very slight yield from the -root (from 1000 parts ½ to ¾ part of oil), its price is -very high, generally exceeding that of rose oil.</p> - -<p>An admixture of other volatile oils of less value -would render the oil fluid at the ordinary temperature.</p> - -<p><i>Patchouli oil.</i>—By the name of patchouli are known, -according to L. Wray, Jr., the leaves of <i>Pogostemon -patchouli, Pellet</i>, natural order <i>Labiatæ</i>, indigenous to -the East Indies, and known and used for centuries in -the various regions of China, Assam, and the Malayan -Islands. Most of the patchouli comes from the East -Indies. Before exportation it is sorted into three qualities: -1. <i>Selected</i>, consisting of leaves only. 2. <i>Mixed</i>, -leaves with slight peduncles and few stems. 3. <i>Stalky -leaves.</i> The best quality occurs seldom in commerce since -the picking of the leaves does not cover the expense.</p> - -<p>According to Wray, the leaves are intentionally mixed -with those of the <i>ruku</i> (<i>ocimum basilicum, L.</i>), an herb -indigenous to the Malayan Islands. The leaves of the -latter are broader than those of <i>pogostemon patchouli</i>, -and the stalks thinner and round. Seed-capsules are -also frequently found among the leaves, though patchouli -seldom flowers and bears seeds.</p> - -<p>In Europe, patchouli has been an article of commerce -since 1841. In the Orient it is highly esteemed as a -perfume. The Arabs even ascribe remedial properties -to it, and it is customary with them to fill their pillows -with the leaves to protect them from infection and prolong -their lives.</p> - -<p>The peculiar, penetrating, though not exactly agreeable, -odor of patchouli leaves, is due to a volatile oil, of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span> -which they contain 1.5 to 2 per cent. In the Orient -this oil has for many years been obtained by distillation.</p> - -<p>In the Penang market two kinds of oil, one <i>green</i> -and the other <i>gold-brown</i>, are distinguished. Though -both are sold at the same price, there is a greater demand -for the green oil. According to the statements -of the distillers, the brown oil is derived from the leaves -of old plants and the green oil from the leaves of young -plants. It would seem, however, that the color is dependent -on the soil upon which the plants are grown, as -well as upon atmospheric influences. When ruku is -distilled with patchouli leaves, the oil is yellow and -thickly-fluid.</p> - -<p>In Germany, the oil is now distilled from imported -leaves. It is thickly-fluid, of a brown color, and, in an -undiluted state, possesses a disagreeable, almost musty -odor. However, when sufficiently diluted and suitably -mixed with other volatile oils, the odor is far more -agreeable, and for this reason it has for some time -played an important part in the manufacture of perfumery. -It has the advantage of being very yielding -and lasting, but, on the other hand, possesses the disadvantage -of not combining with other perfumes, so that -its odor is always perceptible. It should always be -used in very small quantities or much diluted.</p> - -<p>In commerce Penang oil and French oil are distinguished, -the first having a specific gravity of 0.959 and -the latter of 1.012. When kept for any length of time -the oil deposits patchouli-camphor (C<sub>15</sub>H<sub>28</sub>O) in prismatic -crystals of 1.045 specific gravity and melting at -127 to 129° F. These crystals have a peculiar, very -lasting odor.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span></p> - -<p>Patchouli oil is soluble in equal parts of 90 per cent. -alcohol, the contrary indicating that it is not pure. It -is chiefly adulterated with cedar oil.</p> - -<p><i>Peppermint oil.</i>—The <i>Mentha</i> family furnishes commerce -with three oils differing essentially from each -other—<i>oil of curled mint</i>, <i>peppermint oil</i>, <i>and poley oil</i>.</p> - -<p><i>Oil of curled mint</i> (<i>oleum menthæ crispæ</i>) is separated -by distillation with water from the leaves of <i>Mentha -crispa, Linn.</i> It is limpid, yellowish, sometimes greenish; -in time it becomes darker and more thickly-fluid. -Its specific gravity varies between 0.890 and 0.965. It -has a strong odor of curled mint and a pungent, somewhat -cooling, slightly bitterish taste. It is soluble in -all proportions in 90 per cent. alcohol. In commerce a -distinction is made between German and American oil -of curled mint, the latter generally containing oil of -turpentine and oil of sassafras. Odor, taste, and the -alcohol test suffice for the determination of the quality -of the oil.</p> - -<p>Oil of curled mint contains a terpene, C<sub>10</sub>H<sub>16</sub>, and a -body isomeric with carvol, the carvol of curled mint, -C<sub>10</sub>H<sub>14</sub>O. Its specific gravity, boiling point and chemical -properties are the same as those of the carvol of caraway -oil, but it differs from it by its odor and turning the -plane of polarization to the opposite direction. In conjunction -with other volatile oils, oil of curley mint is -sometimes used for perfuming soaps.</p> - -<p><i>Peppermint oil</i> (<i>oleum menthæ piperitæ</i>) is obtained -from the fresh flowering peppermint, <i>Mentha piperita</i>, -natural order <i>Labiatæ</i>. In commerce, German, English, -American and Japanese peppermint oils are distinguished. -As regards fineness, the German oil is inferior<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span> -to the English and better kinds of American oils, but -superior to the Japanese. The best and most expensive -oil is the English so-called "Mitcham oil of peppermint," -which dissolves in 50 parts of 50 per cent. spirit of wine -and possesses a fine, pure taste, it being for this reason -preferred by distillers for the fabrication of liqueurs. -For perfuming purposes, however, the American as well -as the German oils are very suitable. Of American oils -that of H. G. Hotchkiss, L. B. Hotchkiss, Hale & Parshall, -and Fritzsche Bros. enjoy a high reputation. The -Japanese oil is distinguished from the rest by a peculiar -train-oil-like odor and taste, and is in but little demand.</p> - -<p>Crude oil of peppermint is yellowish to greenish and -contains much mucus; it has therefore to be subjected -to another distillation with water. The rectified oil is -clear as water, limpid, of a strong but pleasant odor and -a specific gravity of 0.900 to 0.902. Old oil thickens -and then shows an acid reaction. The greater portion -of the oil congeals at the freezing point of water; many -kinds, however, requiring but slight cooling in order to -become solid. The solid portion of the oil, <i>Menthol</i>, -(C<sub>10</sub>H<sub>12</sub>,H<sub>2</sub>O) is a colorless, finely crystallized body with -an intense odor of peppermint. It melts at 107.6° F., -is quite fluid at an ordinary temperature and boils at -413.6° F. Menthol is found in all oils of peppermint -most abundantly in the Japanese oil, which contains -from 50 to 55 per cent. of it. Mitcham oil is also very -rich in menthol, it containing from 40 to 45 per cent., -while the American oil contains only from 20 to 25 per -cent.</p> - -<p>American, German and English oils of peppermint -may be distinguished as follows: By adding to 5 or 6<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> -drops of the oil, 25 to 30 drops of pure white concentrated -sulphuric acid, <i>American oil of peppermint</i> becomes -heated and emits vapors, the mixture acquiring a dark -brownish red coloration. After mixing with 8 to 10 -cubic centimeters of 90 per cent. alcohol, the fluid -becomes turbid, pale yellowish brown, or reddish brown, -and on boiling clear pale brown. When mixed with -sulphuric acid, <i>German oil of peppermint</i> becomes heated -without emitting vapors, becomes yellowish red, not -very dark, and turbid. After diluting with alcohol, the -fluid becomes turbid and yellowish red, and on boiling -somewhat more transparent and currant-red. <i>English -oil of peppermint</i> treated in the same manner as the -others with sulphuric acid becomes very slightly heated -without any emission of vapor. After diluting with -alcohol, it becomes clear and raspberry red.</p> - -<p>As adulterants of peppermint oil are mentioned: -fat oils, alcohol, oil of turpentine, copaiba oil, mustard -oil, and ginger oil. The most frequent adulteration is -an admixture of oil of turpentine. It is recognized by -the oil not dissolving clear in equal parts of 90 per -cent. alcohol, as is the case with the pure product. To -detect the presence of copaiba oil, mix 5 drops of the -oil to be tested with 15 to 20 drops of fuming nitric -acid, shake and allow it to stand for 1 to 2 hours. -After this time the oily portion should be neither entirely -nor partially congealed, but remain fluid. To detect -traces of mustard oil, bring 10 drops of the oil into a -wide reagent glass, then add 3 to 4 cubic centimeters -of absolute alcohol, 2 to 3 drops of silver nitrate solution -and 12 to 15 drops of ammonia. The mixture is -clear and colorless, and remains so on heating to boiling.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span> -In the presence of mustard oil turbidity and blackening -take place in consequence of the formation of silver -sulphide. After boiling, allow the fluid to stand quietly -for 2 or 3 hours. If it then shows a grayish turbidity, -the oil is adulterated with another volatile oil.</p> - -<p>Instead of pure American oil of peppermint, a product -compounded with camphor oil, and mostly freed -from menthol, is said frequently to occur in commerce. -According to E. C. Federer, this is recognized by dissolving -one volume of oil of peppermint in 2 volumes -of 94 per cent. alcohol, adding water and shaking. Pure -peppermint oil is then separated with a certain portion of -the alcohol. For example, mix 10 cubic centimeters of oil -of peppermint in a graduated cylinder of 45 to 50 cubic -centimeters' capacity with 20 cubic centimeters of 94 per -cent. alcohol, then add 10 cubic centimeters of water of -50° F. and shake. After allowing the mixture to stand -quietly, two layers are formed, the upper one of which, if -the oil is pure, will amount to 14 cubic centimeters, but -only to 12.5 cubic centimeters if the oil is freed from -menthol and compounded with camphor oil. A larger -or smaller addition of water to the alcoholic mixture is -without influence upon the height of the upper layer -separated.</p> - -<p>In perfumery peppermint oil serves chiefly for aromatizing -dentifrices, etc. It should be kept in well-closed -bottles in a shady place; an addition of 0.5 per cent. of -alcohol helps to preserve the oil for a long time.</p> - -<p><i>Poley oil</i> (<i>oleum menthæ pulegii</i>).—In Southern France -and Spain this oil is obtained by distillation from the -leaves of <i>Mentha pulegium</i>. It has an odor resembling -that of peppermint, is at first colorless, but soon becomes<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span> -yellow, has a specific gravity of 0.927, boils at 361.4° -to 370.4° F., and contains neither menthol nor carvol. -It is used for perfuming herb soaps.</p> - -<p><i>Pimento oil</i>, or <i>oil of allspice</i> (<i>oleum pimenta</i>) from the -bruised fruit of <i>Eugenia pimenta</i>, allspice, natural order -<i>Myrtaceæ</i>. The oil is pale yellow, becoming reddish-brown -by age; it has a very pungent taste and intense -odor, very much resembling that of cloves. It is heavier -than water, its specific gravity being from 1.021 to 1.037. -It mixes with glacial acetic acid in all proportions. When -treated with nitric acid, pure pimento oil assumes a red -color, with strong effervescence.</p> - -<p><i>Rose oil</i> or <i>attar of roses</i> (<i>oleum rosæ</i>) comes almost -exclusively from Bulgaria, where it is obtained by distillation -with water from the flowers of <i>Rosa damascena</i>. -The small quantities of an excellent quality of rose oil -prepared in Southern France from <i>Rosa provincialis</i> -remain in the country of their production and do not -even cover the local demand. The small productions of -Persia and India need also not be taken into consideration. -In Tunis, where formerly much rose water was -prepared from <i>Rosa canina</i> and also rose oil of a very -fine quality, the distillation of roses has, according to -Christo Christoff, been entirely abandoned, geranium oil -only being now produced. In the summer of 1884, -Schimmel & Co., of Leipzic, Germany, made the experiment -to obtain oil on a large scale from indigenous -roses. The result was very satisfactory, 2000 lbs. of -rose leaves yielding about 1 lb. of oil, the extraordinarily -agreeable odor of which was so superior to that -of the Turkish oil, that notwithstanding the high price—double -that of Turkish oil—it found ready purchasers.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span> -At the ordinary temperature the Leipzic oil is solid, it -only melting at 89.6° F.</p> - -<p>In Bulgaria, Kazanlik, in the Tundscha Valley, is -the centre of the entire industry and the principal -market. Rose oil is there called "<i>gul-jag</i>" (<i>gul</i>, the -rose, and <i>jag</i>, oil). The annual production of Kazanlik -and neighboring places, amounting 50 years ago to from -450 to 650 lbs., has within a few years risen to the enormous -figure of 5500 lbs.</p> - -<p>In Kazanlik two varieties of roses, known as the -"white rose" and "red rose," are cultivated; the former -being <i>Rosa alba, L.</i>, and the latter <i>Rosa damascena, -Miller</i>. By distillation the white rose yields an oil of -little perfume, but rich in stearoptene. On account of -its slight odor, the white rose is seldom distilled by -itself, but occasionally white and red roses are mixed -in order to obtain an oil rich in stearoptene, so that a -fraudulent admixture of a larger quantity of geranium -oil may be effected without great danger of detection. -The large plantations consist only of bushes of red roses. -But on the edges of the field a strip, a few feet wide, -is planted with white roses, so that only flowers of little -commercial value may be plucked by passers-by.</p> - -<p>The flowers are gathered before sunrise, and, if possible, -the same day subjected to distillation. The latter -is effected in a very crude apparatus, over a direct fire. -The flowers are distilled with double their weight of -water, one-half of which is drawn off. The product of -several operations thus obtained is combined and again -distilled, when, however, only one-sixth is drawn off. -This distillate is allowed to stand for one or two days in -a place warmer than 59° F., when the oil floating on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span> -the top is skimmed off. It may be supposed that on an -average 6600 lbs. of roses are required to obtain 2.2 -lbs. of oil, and that these 6600 lbs. of roses correspond -to an area of 1 hectare (2.471 acres) planted with rose -bushes.</p> - -<p>Pure, carefully-distilled rose oil is at first colorless, -but soon turns yellowish.<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> Its specific gravity is between -0.830 and 0.890. It consists of a liquid oil and -a stearoptene, the content of the latter varying very -much. It is a pure hydrocarbon, odorless, of specific -gravity, 0.840 to 0.860, and distils at 572° F. Hence -it is lighter than the elæoptene on which alone the odor -of the rose oil is dependent. Rose oil generally congeals -between 50° and 60° F., though sometimes at a higher -or lower degree, according to its content of stearoptene. -While some oils require the cold of winter for congealing, -others are in the heat of summer either entirely solid, or -form a fluid filled with many crystals. The odor of -rose oil is peculiarly honey-like, and too intense to be -agreeable, its entire deliciousness being only developed -by strong dilution, be it by dissolving in water or -alcohol, or by distribution upon large quantities of rigid -bodies, fats, soaps, etc. In alcohol it dissolves with -greater difficulty than all other volatile oils, 1 part of it -requiring for solution 140 to 160 parts of alcohol of -0.815 specific gravity.</p> - -<p>The larger or smaller content of stearoptene in rose -oil seems to be dependent on climatic conditions, it -having been remarked that the quantity is the greater<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> -the lower the temperature of the region. The oil from -the coldest and highest regions of the Balkan is richer -in stearoptene than that from the lower and warmer -regions.</p> - -<p>The genuineness of rose oil is generally judged by its -odor, its capacity of congealing, and the manner of its -crystallization. The odor is by all means the most reliable -criterion, but requires much experience, and especially -reliable pure standard samples for comparison. -The capacity of congealing at certain conditions of temperature, -is, to be sure, also a requirement of genuine -rose oil, but, as previously mentioned, this property -varies very much, and is subject to different influences, so -that a fixed standard at which pure rose oil must congeal -cannot be established. Attention must, however, be -called to the fact that the quality of a rose oil does by -no means rise with its greater capacity to congeal, since -only the liquid oxygenated portion possesses odor.</p> - -<p>Schimmel & Co. bring at present into commerce a -liquid rose oil freed from stearoptene which can be -highly recommended for finer alcoholic perfumes. It -remains fluid at 32° F., but in a cold mixture congeals -to a gelatinous mass, and hence is not absolutely free -from stearoptene. It has an extremely fine and powerful -odor, and when dissolved in alcohol does not give -the disagreeable crystalline separations of the ordinary -rose oil, which produce a disturbing effect, especially in -the preparation of extracts.</p> - -<p>For the insulation and determination of the stearoptene -in rose oil, Schimmel & Co. proceed as follows: -Heat 50 grammes of oil together with 500 grammes of -75 per cent. alcohol to from 158° to 176° F. In cool<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span>ing, -the stearoptene separates nearly quantitatively. -Separate it from the fluid, treat it again in the same -manner with 200 grammes of 75 per cent. alcohol, and -repeat the operation until the stearoptene is entirely free -from odor. Two treatments of the crude stearoptene -are generally sufficient. In this manner Schimmel & -Co. obtained from 1887 German rose oil 32½ per cent. -stearoptene, from 1888 German rose oil 34 per cent., -from 1887 Turkish rose oil 12 to 13 per cent., and from -1888 Turkish rose oil 14 per cent.</p> - -<p>It is evident that such a valuable product as rose oil -is much subjected to adulteration, it being even said -that oils containing scarcely 10 per cent. of genuine rose -oil occur in the market. The chief adulterant used by -the Bulgarians is the so-called geranium oil, but actually -ginger-grass oil derived from India, which is brought -by way of Arabia to Constantinople, and prepared for the -purpose of adulterating rose oil by treatment with lemon -juice and bleaching in the sun. The sophistication is -generally effected by sprinkling the ginger-grass oil -thus prepared upon the rose leaves before distilling. -The general characters of this oil are so similar to those -of rose oil that detection, when the adulteration is kept -within certain limits, is very difficult, so that during the -distilling time large buyers and exporters of rose oil are -forced to pay, besides their other officers in Kazanlik, -confidential native agents who constantly move around -in the distilling regions and report where distillation has -been carried on honestly, and where the ginger-grass oil -bottle has been seen. However, the prepared ginger-grass -oil is frequently not even distilled with the rose -leaves, but simply mixed with the finished rose oil.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span></p> - -<p>Whether a rose oil is free from geranium or ginger-grass -oil is tested in Bulgaria, according to Christo -Christoff, by the freezing method, which is, however, -unreliable. It is based upon the fact that an addition -of geranium oil reduces the congealing point of rose oil. -Pure Bulgarian rose oil congeals at from 63.5° to 68° -F.; by the addition of geranium oil, the same oil congeals -at 61.25°, 59°, 56.75°, or at a still lower temperature, -according to the quantity added. The buyer when -purchasing oil carries with him two basins, one containing -hot and the other cold water, which he mixes in -order to obtain a fixed temperature, the operation being -controlled by a Réaumur thermometer. In the water -thus prepared he completely submerges a 20 gramme -flask containing 15 grammes of the oil to be tested. In -three minutes, needle-like crystals of the separating -stearoptene must appear, and in ten minutes crystallization -must be complete. According to the congealing -point thus established, the product is paid for. Oil -congealing below 59° F. being evidently adulterated is -rejected and bargained for at a special price.</p> - -<p>Many attempts have been made to fraudulently make -this congelation appear within the limits of temperature -permitted, paraffine which dissolves well in rose oil being -formerly frequently added. In such case the oil may -congeal at from 65.75° to 68° F., but the crystals are -opaque, dirty yellow, and dissolve to a turbid paste -which collects on the surface. The simplest method is -to distil white roses with the red. The resulting product -has not as fine an odor as that from red roses -alone, but is richer in stearoptene. Such oil, which, unadulterated, -congeals perhaps at 68° F., can by the addi<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span>tion -of geranium oil be reduced to from 63.5° to 65.75° -F., thus keeping within the limits permitted.</p> - -<p>Numerous attempts have been made to find a rapid -and sure way for the detection of geranium oil in rose -oil, but thus far in vain. Attention must also be drawn -to the fact that the adulterant is frequently itself adulterated -with oil of turpentine before being sold to the -distillers of rose oil.</p> - -<p>Besides the above-mentioned ginger-grass oil, the -actual geranium oils from <i>Pelargonium odoratissimum</i> -and <i>P. roseum</i>, as well as rosewood oil, sandal-wood -oil, spermaceti, paraffine, and fat oils have been mentioned -as adulterants of rose oil. The geranium oils -having a by-odor of lemon oil, by which their presence -could be readily detected are not suitable for the purpose. -Neither can rosewood or sandal-wood oils be used, or -at least such adulteration would be so clumsy as to be -immediately recognized. Attempts to adulterate rose -oil by the addition of a fat crystallizable body together -with another volatile oil fail on account of the characteristic -properties of rose oil stearoptene, which resembles no -other body at present known. While rose oil stearoptene -is lighter than elæoptene and entirely volatile, spermaceti -possesses essentially different qualities. It does -not form such long and specifically light crystals as -rose oil stearoptene; hence it readily separates on the -bottom and on shaking exhibits a peculiar iridescent -loamy formation. Furthermore it melts at 122° F., -and not being volatile, leaves, on heating, a greasy stain -upon paper, while the stearoptene melts at 95° F. and, -on heating, volatilizes completely without leaving a -greasy stain behind.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span></p> - -<p>If a rose oil is to be tested, expose the bottle containing -the oil to a moderate heat until the contents are entirely -liquid; then gently shake the bottle in order to -bring about an intimate mixture of elæoptene and stearoptene. -Now pour some of the oil into a cylindrical -glass flask of 20 to 40 cubic centimeters' capacity and -allow it to congeal; then, while heating in the hand, -observe how the rigid portions act in liquefying. These -rigid, crystalline portions should be transparently clear -and, being lighter than the fluid portion, float, while -liquefying, in the upper layer of the fluid. Hence, if -now the fluid be again allowed to congeal, the crystals -should appear within the upper half of the oil. The -above-mentioned volatile oils partially lack the property -of separating a stearoptene in crystals at from -33.8° to 50° F., and though they may have a rose -odor, it is not the mild, fragrant odor of genuine rose -oil. To recognize the latter, Guibourt makes use of -pure concentrated sulphuric acid. Stir together in a -watch-crystal an equal number of drops of the oil and -of the acid; pure rose oil preserves its characteristic -odor, while the foreign oils exhibit a disagreeable odor -even when mixed with genuine rose oil.</p> - -<p>Schimmel & Co. give a method for an approximate -quantitative determination of spermaceti in rose oil: -Boil 3 to 5 grammes of stearoptene, separated in the -manner above given, with 20 to 25 grammes of 5 per -cent. alcoholic potash lye for 5 to 6 hours; then evaporate -the alcohol and compound the residue with hot -water. In cooling, the greater portion of the stearoptene -separates in a crystalline mass upon the surface. -Now pour off the alkaline fluid, wash the stearoptene<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span> -with cold water, then melt it again in hot water, allow -it to cool, pour off the water, and repeat the same operations -until the wash-water is neutral. The combined -aqueous fluids are twice shaken with ether to remove any -stearoptene suspended in them. The alcoholic lye separated -from the ether is acidulated with dilute sulphuric -acid and again extracted with ether. After evaporation -no residue (fatty acids) should remain. To control -the experiment weigh the regained stearoptene dried at -194° F., adding, of course, the ether used for extracting -the alkaline fluid. There will be a small loss, since -small quantities of stearoptene always evaporate in -drying.</p> - -<p><i>Rosemary oil</i> (<i>oleum rosemarini</i> or <i>ol. anthos</i>) is obtained -in Southern Europe, especially in Southern France, Dalmatia -and Northern Italy, by distillation from the flowering -rosemary, <i>Rosmarinus officinalis</i>, natural order -<i>Labiatæ</i>. It is, when fresh, limpid, colorless, or yellowish, -of a penetrating, camphor-like odor and taste, and -specific gravity 0.880 to 0.915. By age it becomes -darker and thickly-fluid. The French rosemary oil is -the best and most expensive. It is distinguished from -the Italian oil by its much more pleasant odor. Pure -French rosemary oil dissolves in an equal part of 90 -per cent. alcohol, while the Italian product requires -2 to 3 parts. The cheaper rosemary oils are generally -adulterated with oil of turpentine, which is recognized -by the oil not dissolving in the above-mentioned proportion -in alcohol, as well as by the iodine test. Rosemary -oil does not detonate with iodine, but simply dissolves -with heating and perhaps the emission of vapors.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span></p> - -<p>The French rosemary oil forms one of the ingredients -of <i>eau de Cologne</i> and is used in other perfumery.</p> - -<p><i>Rosewood oil or rhodium oil</i> (<i>oleum ligni rhodii</i>), is obtained -by distillation from the wood of the root and -lower trunk of <i>Convolvulus scopiarius</i> and <i>C. floridas, L.</i>, -two plants indigenous to the Canaries. The waste falling -off in the manufacture of rosewood beads is chiefly -used for the purpose. The oil is of a pale yellow color -becoming brown by age. It has a pleasant odor resembling -in some slight degree the fragrance of the rose. It -is sometimes used in cheap perfumery as a substitute -for rose oil.</p> - -<p><i>Sandal-wood oil</i> (<i>oleum ligni sandali</i>) is distilled from -the white West Indian or dark yellow East Indian sandal-wood -(<i>Santalum myrtifolium</i>). For the purpose of -distillation the wood is rasped as finely as possible. The -oil obtained from the East Indian wood is the better -and more valuable. It has a dark yellow to brown color -and a pleasant intense, rose-like odor, while the West -Indian oil is pale yellow and of a less agreeable odor. -Both oils are very thickly-fluid. The quality and value -of sandal-wood oil are best judged by the odor, an -adulteration with cedar oil being readily detected thereby.</p> - -<p><i>Sassafras oil</i> (<i>oleum ligni sassafras</i>), from the bruised -root of the sassafras tree, <i>Sassafras officinale</i>, natural -order <i>Lauraceæ</i>. Sassafras is one of the most widely -distributed trees of North America, being found in -Canada, in all of the United States, east of the prairies, -beyond the Mississippi, and in Mexico. The largest -amount of oil distilled is within sixty miles of Baltimore, -Md., which is the principal depot for its commerce.</p> - -<p>Oil of sassafras varies in color from colorless to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span> -yellow and red. Its taste is pungent and aromatic, -being agreeable to most persons. It has a pleasant -odor resembling that of fennel, and is heavier than -water, its specific gravity being 1.08 to 1.09. It is -soluble in 4 to 5 parts of alcohol of 0.85 specific gravity, -and consists of a mixture of various oils, among which -is safrene (C<sub>10</sub>H<sub>16</sub>), a dextrorotatory terpene which boils -between 311° and 314.6° F. By strongly cooling in a -cold mixture, safrol, a crystallizing stearoptene of the -composition C<sub>10</sub>H<sub>10</sub>O<sub>2</sub>, is separated. Safrol is the chief -constituent of sassafras oil. It is obtained in abundance -by cooling, at a temperature of 13° F., the portion -boiling between 442.4° and 455° F. It melts at 46.4° -F., and at a medium temperature forms a colorless clear -oil of pungent taste, characteristic odor, and specific -gravity 1.104. When the crystals have been heated to -above 158° F., they congeal only after remaining for -weeks at a temperature below 32° F., but on being -melted at 68° F., the fluid mass again congeals readily -on cooling. The safrol is neutral, optically inactive, -boils at 449.6° F., and is soluble in alcohol and ether. -Sassafras oil is said to be frequently adulterated with -oil of turpentine, which is, however, readily detected by -the energetic reaction and by distilling a sample of the -suspected oil.</p> - -<p>Safrol is very suitable for perfuming ordinary soaps. -It has in a still higher degree than camphor oil the -property of removing the disagreeable odor of some fats, -while at the same time it imparts to the soaps an -aromatic, refreshing odor. As a rule 8 to 11 ozs. are -used for 220 lbs. of soap; but if it shall at the same -time serve for removing the disagreeable odor of low<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> -quality fats, especially those extracted with bisulphide -of carbon or benzine, it is advisable to take 2.2 lbs., or -still better, 4.4 lbs. for 220 lbs. of soap. In this case the -safrol should be added to the fat after melting and before -saponification and thoroughly mixed with it by stirring. -An excellent perfume for ordinary soaps is a mixture of -safrol and citronella oil, it being at any rate preferable -to oil of mirbane.</p> - -<p>The standard of value for safrol is its specific gravity, -which should not be below 1.104 at 59° F. Specifically -lighter kinds contain camphor oil and other impurities.</p> - -<p><i>Thyme oil</i> is obtained in Southern France and Spain -by distillation from the flowering thyme, <i>Thymus vulgaris, -L.</i> It is greenish-yellow to red (red thyme oil, -<i>oleum thymi rubrum</i>), but by rectification becomes colorless -(white thyme oil, <i>oleum thymi album</i>). Both oils -are quite limpid and possess a strong thyme odor. The -specific gravity of the red oil is 0.91 to 0.94, and that -of the rectified oil 0.87 to 0.89. The oil prepared from -the fresh plant shows, as a rule, a higher specific gravity -than that from the dried plant. Thyme oil consists -essentially of thymene (C<sub>10</sub>H<sub>16</sub>) besides some cymene -(C<sub>10</sub>H<sub>14</sub>) and thymol (C<sub>10</sub>H<sub>14</sub>O), the latter forming an -essential constitutent of the oil. Oils from which the -thymol has been withdrawn occur in commerce. Pure -thyme oil dissolves clear in every proportion in 90 per -cent. alcohol; if such is not the case, adulteration with -oil of turpentine is probable.</p> - -<p>The oil distilled from the field thyme, <i>Thymus serpyllum, -L.</i>, is limpid, yellowish to gold yellow, and of specific -gravity 0.89 to 0.91. Old oil is red or brown and -no longer limpid. Good oil is soluble in every propor<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span>tion -in 90 per cent. alcohol and emits only slight vapors -when brought in contact with iodine. It consists largely -of thymene and cymene, and contains a few per cent. of -phenol-like bodies.</p> - -<p><i>Turpentine, oil of.</i>—Under the general name "oil of -turpentine" are comprised the volatile oils obtained by -distillation from the resins or other portions of different -species of the pine. There is a large number of these -oils, the most important ones of which shall here be mentioned, -though but a few are of interest to the perfumer.</p> - -<p><i>Austrian oil of turpentine</i>, from <i>Pinus laricio, Poir</i>.—It -is colorless or yellowish, transparent; specific gravity, -0.864; boiling point, 311° to 314° F.; turns polarized -light to the left; soluble in 6 parts 90 per cent. alcohol. -When rectified it has a specific gravity of 0.862, and is -soluble in 7 parts of 90 per cent. alcohol.</p> - -<p><i>German oil of turpentine</i>, from <i>Pinus sylvestris</i>, <i>P. -abies</i>, <i>P. vulgaris</i>, <i>P. picea</i>, and <i>P. rotundata</i>, resembles -the former; specific gravity, 0.860 to 0.870; boiling -point, 311° to 320° F.; turns polarized light to the -left. When rectified it is soluble in 7 parts of 90 per -cent. alcohol.</p> - -<p><i>French oil of turpentine</i>, from French turpentine of -<i>Pinus maritima</i>.—It is colorless or faint yellowish; -specific gravity, 0.860; boiling point, 313° to 315° -F.; turns polarized light to the left; odor peculiar; -taste burning. With 7 parts of 90 per cent. alcohol it -gives a clear solution.</p> - -<p><i>Venetian oil of turpentine</i>, from Venice turpentine of -<i>Larix decidua, Mill.</i>, is laevorotatory and resembles -the preceding, but has a more agreeable odor. Venice<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span> -turpentine is mostly obtained in Southern Tyrol and in -Piedmont, and yields 18 to 25 per cent. of oil.</p> - -<p><i>American oil of turpentine</i>, from American turpentine -of <i>Pinus australis, Mich.</i>, and <i>P. Taeda, L.</i>—It resembles -French turpentine, but turns polarized light to the right. -Specific gravity, 0.864; boiling point, 302° to 312.8° F.</p> - -<p><i>Pine oil</i> (<i>oleum abietis</i>) is obtained by distilling with -water the leaves or green cones of <i>Pinus picea, L.</i>, <i>Abies -pectinata, D. C.</i> Its odor is much finer than that of ordinary -oil of turpentine. It is soluble in 7 parts of 90 -per cent. alcohol.</p> - -<p><i>Dwarf pine oil, Krummholz or Latschenoel</i> (<i>oleum pini -pumilionis</i>), is obtained by distilling the young tops and -cones of <i>Pinus pumilio</i> with water. It has an agreeable -odor, reminding one of juniper; specific gravity, 0.865; -boiling point, 338° F. The oil is laevorotatory and -soluble in 12 to 15 parts of 90 per cent. alcohol.</p> - -<p><i>Pine-leaf oil</i> is obtained by distilling the leaves of -<i>Pinus sylvestris</i> or <i>P. abies</i> by means of steam. It is -dextrorotatory; has a fine aromatic odor; boiling point, -320° F.; specific gravity, 0.875 to 0.876.</p> - -<p><i>Templin oil</i> (<i>Kienoel</i>) (<i>oleum pini</i>, <i>ol. templinum</i>) is obtained -chiefly in some sections of Switzerland and Tyrol -by distilling the wood, branches, leaves, cones, etc., with -water. It has a lemon-like odor; specific gravity, 0.860 -to 0.880; boiling point, 320° to 327° F., and is laevorotatory.</p> - -<p><i>Balsam-pine oil</i> (<i>oleum abietis canadensis</i>) is obtained -in Canada from the branches of <i>Abies balsamea, D. C.</i> -It has a slightly yellowish color, a very agreeable and -refreshing odor; specific gravity, 0.902; boiling point<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span> -at 320° to 330.8° F., and turns polarized light to the -right.</p> - -<p>Of the different varieties of oil of turpentine mentioned -only pine oil and dwarf pine oil are used in -perfumery.</p> - -<p>Oils of turpentine must be kept carefully protected -from light and air. When badly kept they gradually -become resinous with formation of formic and acetic -acids. When exposed to the air oil of turpentine absorbs -ozone; with iodine it detonates violently. When brought -in contact with a mixture of concentrated sulphuric acid -and nitric acid it ignites.</p> - -<p><i>Verbena, oil of</i>, from the lemon verbena, <i>Aloysia citriodora, -Hooker</i>. The plant is cultivated in the gardens -of Grasse. The oil is extracted from the leaves by distillation -in August, but on account of its high price is -almost out of market, it being everywhere substituted -by the oil of lemon grass, <i>Andropogon citratus</i>.</p> - -<p><i>Violet, oil of.</i>—The perfume of the violet, <i>Viola odorata</i>, -natural order <i>Violaceæ</i>, is due to a volatile oil of -a green color and of such a penetrating odor as to cause -headache; it acquires the agreeable odor of the violet -only by strong dilution. The violet farms from whence -the flowers are procured for the production of the oil, -are very extensive at Nice and in the neighborhood of -Florence. The oil is only obtained by the absorption -process, all other methods to procure it having failed up -to this time. It is scarcely obtainable in commerce, as -the French manufacturers, who prepare the greater part -of it, use the very small yield for manufacturing fine -perfumery.</p> - -<p><i>Vitivert or vetiver oil</i> (<i>oleum iva ranchusa</i>) from the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span> -so-called cuscus, the rhizome of an Indian grass, <i>Anathereum -muricatum</i>. The oil is obtained by distillation, -either from the fresh root in India, or from the imported -dried root in Europe. The yield is very small. The oil -is thickly-fluid, of a red-brown color, and has an intense, -but agreeable odor very much like that of oil of orris -root. Like the latter, it possesses the valuable property -of diffusing a lasting perfume. Its value can only be -judged by the odor, and hence it should only be purchased -from a thoroughly reliable firm.</p> - -<p><i>Wintergreen oil</i> (<i>oleum gaultheriæ</i>) is obtained by distillation -from the wintergreen, <i>Gaultheria procumbens</i>, -a plant common in North America. It is thickly fluid, -yellowish green to gold yellow, of a sweetish, aromatic, -pungent taste and penetrating, narcotic odor, which -becomes agreeable only by strongly diluting the oil. -By rectification the oil becomes entirely colorless. Its -specific gravity is 1.170 to 1.190 (according to Gladstone, -1.142). It is sparingly soluble in water, but -readily so in alcohol, ether, chloroform, etc. The aqueous -or dilute alcoholic solution is colored deep violet by -ferric chloride.</p> - -<p>Wintergreen oil boils at 392° F.; the boiling point, -however, soon rises to 431.6° F., when it remains constant. -Between 392° and 428° F. a terpene (C<sub>10</sub>H<sub>16</sub>) -constituting about 1/10 of the oil distils off; the rest corresponds -to the composition C<sub>8</sub>H<sub>8</sub>O<sub>3</sub>; it is methyl salicylate</p> - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="left">=</td><td align="left">C<sub>6</sub>H<sub>4</sub></td><td align="left">┌OH<br />└CO.OCH<sub>3</sub>.</td></tr> -</table></div> - - -<p>Wintergreen oil is also obtained by distillation from -<i>Gaultheria punctata</i> and <i>Gaultheria leucocarpa</i>. An -oil, very closely resembling wintergreen oil, is in this<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span> -country distilled from the young shoots of the American -species of birch, <i>Betula lenta</i>, variously called sweet -birch, black birch, cherry birch, and mountain mahogany. -According to Procter, the oil does not exist in the birch -but is formed by the action of the water upon an odorless -body, called gaultherin, which is converted into -volatile oil by the reaction of another substance analogous -to emulsin. Hence the formation of oil is similar -to that of oil of bitter almonds. To obtain the oil from -<i>Betula lenta</i>, the material is chopped up and placed in -the still, as much as this will hold, a sufficient quantity of -water being then added to fill the still about one-third full. -The still is generally permitted to remain in this condition -over night, a fire is made in the morning and distillation -proceeds nicely. The manufacture of birch -oil is carried on at quite a large scale by Mr. A. H. -Seidle, of Middleport, Schuylkill County, Pa.</p> - -<p>Methyl salicylate may also be artificially prepared by -heating a mixture of methyl alcohol, sulphuric acid and -salicylic acid whereby at first methyl-sulphuric acid is -formed which is then converted into methyl ether and -sulphuric acid:—</p> - -<div class="lsmall"> -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left">┌OH</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">┌OCH<sub>3</sub></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">SO<sub>2</sub></td><td align="left">┤</td><td align="left">+ CH<sub>3</sub>OH = SO<sub>2</sub></td><td align="left">┤</td><td align="left">+ H<sub>2</sub>O</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left">└OH</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">└OH</td></tr> -</table></div> - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left">┌OCH<sub>3</sub></td><td></td><td align="left">┌OH</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">SO<sub>2</sub></td><td align="left">┤</td><td align="left">+ C<sub>6</sub>H<sub>4</sub></td><td align="left">┤</td><td align="left">=</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left">└OH</td><td></td><td align="left">└COOH</td></tr> -</table></div><br /> - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left">┌OH</td><td></td><td align="left">┌OH</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">C<sub>6</sub>H<sub>4</sub></td><td align="left">┤</td><td align="left">+ SO<sub>2</sub></td><td align="left">┤</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left">└CO.OCH<sub>3</sub></td><td align="left"></td><td align="left">└OH.</td></tr> -</table></div> -</div> -<p>Etherification succeeds without difficulty, it being sufficient -to heat the mixture for some time and then pour<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span> -it into water whereby the ether separates as a heavy -layer of oil. After washing with water distil in a direct -current of steam. The ether thus obtained is as clear -as water and, as regards its other properties, does not -differ from the naturally occurring oil. This artificial -wintergreen oil is now much used for perfuming -purposes.</p> - -<p>Wintergreen oil is said to be frequently adulterated -with sassafras oil which is also specifically heavier than -water. If, according to Hayer, 5 drops of the oil in a -test-tube be mixed with 10 drops of crude concentrated -nitric acid, a deep blood-red fluid results in one minute -if oil of sassafras is present. In the course of another -minute, the fluid separates a brown resinous mass. Pure -oil, on the other hand, is but little altered.</p> - -<p>According to P. MacEwan the adulteration of wintergreen -oil with camphor oil is carried on at a large scale. -The presence of camphor oil may be recognized by the -specific gravity, 0.900, while that of pure wintergreen -oil is, on an average, 1.18. A crude test—which is, -however, readily executed—is as follows: Stir a few -drops of the suspected oil in water. If pure, the oil -in a few seconds sinks to the bottom, but if it contains -camphor oil several minutes elapse before it deposits, -and there is time to observe that the particles of oil -assume different forms, but not a globular one.</p> - -<p><i>Ylang-Ylang oil</i> (<i>oleum unonæ</i>) is obtained by distilling -the flowers of <i>Unona odoratissima</i>, indigenous to -the Philippine Islands, the Straits of Malacca, and Indian -Archipelago. The oil is colorless to yellowish. -Its color and specific gravity, however vary very much, -according to the season of the year in which it is pre<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span>pared, -the oil distilled in the cold season being more -colorless and limpid than that produced in the warm -season. The oil has an exquisite odor, partaking of the -jasmine and the lilac, and is used in the manufacture of -the finest perfumery. Various kinds are found in commerce, -that marked "Sartorius" being preferred.</p> - -<p>The difference in quality of the many kinds of oil -found in commerce is chiefly due to the method of preparation -and the selection of the flowers, which possess -the finest aroma when freshly gathered. In distilling, -the first light volatile portions passing over have an -incomparable perfume, while the oil distilling over later -on possesses an insipid odor. Hence the manufacturer, -who only obtains the first portions, will furnish the -finest quality of oil, and it is this method of preparation -which has gained the "Sartorius" oil its high reputation. -While according to Schimmel & Co.'s report, 220 lbs. of -fresh ylang-ylang flowers yield 2.64 lbs. of oil, Sartorius -for the preparation of his fine oil distils off only about -half the quantity.</p> - -<p><i>Conanga oil</i> is a poorer quality of ylang-ylang oil, -obtained from the same plant. Two varieties are distinguished -in commerce, viz: the <i>Javanese</i> and <i>Indian</i>. -The Java oil is the best, and may be used where -ordinary qualities of ylang-ylang oil will do. According -to Schimmel & Co.'s report the cheaper Indian oil is -very resistant and durable in soaps, especially when -combined with licari or linaloë oil.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span></p> - - - - -<div class="chapter"><h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</a></h2></div> - -<p class="subh">RESINS AND BALSAMS.</p> - - -<p>The term <i>resins</i> is applied to certain organic substances -which are very closely related to volatile oils, in -so far as many of them are formed from the latter by -oxidation. As previously mentioned, by exposure to -the atmospheric air all volatile oils undergo a change, -whereby they thicken and are finally converted into -substances possessing the character of resins. In nature -most resins also occur mixed with volatile oils.</p> - -<p>The elementary constituents of resins are carbon, -hydrogen, and oxygen; but, generally speaking, they -are poor in oxygen and rich in carbon. Chemically -they behave like weak acids, their solutions frequently -reddening litmus and sometimes expelling, on boiling, -the carbonic acid from alkaline carbonates.</p> - -<p>Independent of a possible content of volatile oil, -every naturally occurring resin consists of several resins -which, however, can, as a rule, be separated only with -difficulty.</p> - -<p>The resins are generally divided into <i>hard resins</i>, <i>soft -resins</i> or <i>balsams</i>, and <i>gum-resins</i>. The hard resins are, -at the ordinary temperature, solid, hard, and brittle, can -be readily pulverized, and contain little or no volatile -oil. The soft resins or balsams are kneadable, and -sometimes even semi-fluid; they represent solutions of -resins in volatile oils, or a mixture of volatile oil and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> -resin. On exposure to the air they are changed by the -volatile oil suffering oxidation, they becoming then more -or less hard, and may be converted into actual resins. -The gum-resins are mixtures of vegetable gum, resin, -and volatile oils, and are obtained by inspissation of the -milky juice of several plants. When triturated with -water they yield a milky, turbid fluid, and dissolve -only partially in alcohol.</p> - -<p>The resins are widely diffused in the vegetable kingdom, -there being scarcely a plant which does not contain -resin in one form or another. Some families of plants -and organs of plants are, however, distinguished by -their special wealth of resins. The resins are, as a rule, -secreted simultaneously with volatile oils in special -reservoirs, from which they flow out naturally at certain -periods, or are obtained by incisions made in the plants. -A few bodies of the character of resins also occur in the -animal kingdom, and a series of them, the fossil resins, -are generally classed in the mineral kingdom, though -most of them are very likely derived from plants. Some -resins, such as the aldehyde resins, etc., are purely artificial -products.</p> - -<p>Of the hard resins, benzoin alone is used in perfumery; -of the balsams, Peru balsam, Tolu balsam, and -storax balsam; and of the gum-resins, the myrrh.</p> - -<p><i>Benzoin</i> is exclusively obtained from <i>Styrax benzoïn, -Dryand</i> (<i>Benzoïne officinale, Hayne</i>), a tree which -grows in Java, Sumatra, and Siam. The bark of the -tree is slit to allow a fluid to flow out, which concretes -on the trunk in the form of grains, or is collected in -vessels in which it congeals and assumes the form of -lumps ("tampangs"). Older trees which have been<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span> -frequently tapped for resin yield a product of a lower -quality; the grains ("tears") forming, as a rule, the -better varieties. When the benzoin collects in large -masses it always shows an amygdaloid structure, the -grains ("almonds") of a roundish form, smooth termination, -homogeneous structure, and paler color, appearing -imbedded in a dark, porous, or resiniform mass.</p> - -<p>According to the appearance of the product three -varieties are distinguished: Benzoin in tears (<i>B. in -lacrimis</i>), <i>amygdaloid benzoin</i> (<i>B. amygdaloides</i>), and lump -benzoin (<i>B. in sortis</i>, <i>B. in massis</i>). The <i>benzoin in -tears</i> forms loose, smoothly terminated, longish, homogeneously -appearing masses of an opal-like lustre, and -first of a whitish, and later on, of a yellowish, reddish, -or brownish color. The separate pieces are up to 3 -millimeters in diameter, though the Siam benzoin in -tears frequently consists of still larger and generally -decidedly flattened pieces.</p> - -<p><i>Amygdaloid benzoin</i> consists chiefly of white pieces, -becoming, later on, brownish, of a waxy lustre and imbedded -in a lustrous brown-red resinous mass. The -<i>lump benzoin</i> or <i>ordinary benzoin</i> has also an amygdaloid -structure but is not so rich in almonds as the preceding -variety and possesses either a fine granular or colophony-like -ground-mass and is frequently contaminated by parts -of plants. The exterior of the variety occurring in -commerce in large lumps shows, according to the mode -of packing, the imprint of leaves or of coarse pack-cloth.</p> - -<p>Benzoin generally consists of cinnamic and benzoic -acids which occur in a crystalline state in the grains as -well as the ground-mass; further, of several amorphous<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span> -resins soluble in alcohol, and coloring matter. The content -of cinnamic and benzoic acids amounts to from 12 -to 20 per cent. The best varieties from Sumatra and -Singapore contain no benzoic acid, and those from Siam -no cinnamic acid.</p> - -<p>All varieties of benzoin possess a peculiar odor, that -of the better varieties being agreeable, and a sweet, -aromatic, but pungent taste. The melting point generally -lies between 176° and 203° F., that of the tears -and of the almonds being lower than that of the ground-mass. -A low melting-point is accepted as a mark of -quality, Siam benzoin, which is considered the best, -melting at 167° F. Some varieties, for instance, those -recently imported from Singapore, have a pronounced -vanilla-like odor; the presence of vanillin has been -established in them. The Sumatra benzoin has a -storax-like odor.</p> - -<p>Benzoin is sparingly soluble in chloroform, only partially -so in ether, and completely in alcohol. On mixing -the alcoholic solution with water, the resin is -separated. Petroleum-ether and benzine withdraw only -benzoic acid from the dry, powdered benzoin. All -varieties of benzoin dissolve in concentrated sulphuric -acid to a beautiful purple colored fluid, from which -benzoic acid, if present, is separated in crystals by the -gradual addition of water. The establishment of the -presence of cinnamic acid is best effected as follows: -Boil the sample in milk of lime, filter, and treat the -solution with hydrochloric acid. The precipitate thereby -separated is thoroughly washed, triturated with potassium -permanganate and water, and heated, whereby in -the presence of cinnamic acid, oil of bitter almonds is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> -formed from the latter, which is readily recognized by -the odor.</p> - -<p>If benzoin containing benzoic acid be heated, white -vapors are emitted which, on cold surfaces, deposit in -very delicate, lustrous, acicular, or foliated crystals of -benzoic acid, the so-called benzoin flowers (<i>Floris benzoes</i>.) -Benzoic acid thus prepared possesses an agreeable, -vanilla-like odor, since by heating the benzoin the -greater portion of the odoriferous substance contained -in it escapes. Benzoic acid separated by the wet method -is odorless.</p> - -<p>Benzoin is especially used for fumigating pastilles. -It is also of great importance on account of its property -of preventing fats from becoming rancid, if added to -them in small quantities.</p> - -<p><i>Peru balsam</i> (<i>Balsamum Peruvianum</i>) is the produce -of the Balsam Coast, San Salvador, Central America, -where Sansonate forms the central point of the industry. -In the mountain forests, back of the coast, grows the -balsam tree (<i>Myroxylon Pereiræ, Klotzch</i>; <i>Toluiferæ -Pereiræ, Baillon</i>), natural order, <i>Papilionaceæ</i>. The -gaining of balsam commences when the tree is five years -old, the collecting time beginning in the dry season in -the first days of November. The trunks of the trees -are belabored with hammers on four places (according -to other statements, on twenty to thirty), so that the -bark is detached in strips. After a few days the bark -thus loosened is burnt off by means of torches, whereupon -a balsamic fluid oozes from the young wood, which -is absorbed by pieces of cloth or rags, placed upon the -denuded places. When the rags are thoroughly saturated -with balsam, they are squeezed out and then<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span> -thrown into an earthen pot filled with boiling water, -whereby the balsam is detached and collects on the bottom -of the vessel. By this process the <i>Balsamo de trapó</i> -is obtained. By boiling the bark, which falls off, a -small quantity of a poorer quality of balsam, called -<i>tacuasonte</i>, is obtained, which, it would seem, is frequently -added to the better quality. Crude Peruvian -balsam is a gray-green to dirty-yellow fluid, of the consistency -of syrup. The process of purification in use on -the Balsamic Coast is as follows: The crude balsam is -brought into large iron vessels, holding from 1300 to -1500 lbs. each, and allowed to clarify by quietly standing -from 8 to 14 days, the heavy impurities settling on -the bottom, while the light dirt, together with the water, -appears as foam on the surface. After 8 to 14 days -the balsam is drawn off through a cock, located about -4¾ inches above the bottom of the vessel, into a tinned -iron boiler, and boiled over an open fire at a moderate -heat for 2 to 3 hours. The foam which forms is skinned -off, and boiling continued until no more foam appears.</p> - -<p>The collection of balsam continues until the first rain -falls in April or May, when the work ceases. A vigorous -tree, well treated, yields balsam for 30 years in -succession, and if then allowed to rest 5 or 6 years can -be used several years longer. The annual yield of balsam -from 100 trees is said to be about 550 lbs.</p> - -<p>From the very odoriferous flowers of the balsam tree -or, according to others, by expressing the fruits, a <i>white</i> -Peruvian balsam is obtained, which is, however, seldom -found in commerce. It is of the consistency of honey, -pale-yellow, smells of vanilla and melilot, and has an<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span> -aromatic bitter taste. On standing for some time it deposits -crystals of myroxocarpin.</p> - -<p>Ordinary (black) Peruvian balsam is a black-brown -fluid, transparent and dark (honey-yellow in thin -layers), which retains its consistency even after being -kept for years and deposits no crystals. It shows a -slight acid reaction, has an agreeable odor reminding one -of gum benzoin and vanilla, and at first a mild, but, later -on, a sharp and pungent taste.</p> - -<p>The specific gravity of pure Peru balsam formerly -varied between 1.14 and 1.16, but at present between -1.135 and 1.145, this change in the specific gravity -being very likely due to a different process of -purification.</p> - -<p>Peru balsam is miscible in every proportion with -absolute alcohol, while ether leaves behind undissolved -a black, smeary residue, and hot oils of turpentine or -almonds dissolve only about one-half. It is miscible -with acetone, chloroform, amyl alcohol. By digesting -the balsam with aqueous potash lye, <i>Peru balsam oil</i>, -which constitutes about 60 per cent. of the balsam, -separates on the surface. In an undecomposed state the -oil is, according to Kachler, chiefly benzyl, cinnamate, -or cinnamein. The potash solution separated from the -Peru balsam oil, contains cinnamic acid, benzoic acid, -and resin. The latter, according to Stotze, can be separated -into two portions, one soluble, and the other -insoluble, in aqueous alcohol.</p> - -<p>Benzine and petroleum-ether dissolve from the Peru -balsam only the nearly colorless cinnamein of which it -contains up to 45 per cent. The behavior of Peru balsam -towards bisulphide of carbon is very characteristic,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span> -3 parts of it giving, according to Flückiger, a clear -solution with 1 part of bisulphide of carbon; if, however, -8 parts more of the latter be added, up to 30 per -cent. of a dark resin is separated, while the bisulphide -of carbon is but slightly colored.</p> - -<p>From San Salvador 11,000 to 13,000 lbs. of Peru -balsam are annually brought to Europe, it being generally -imported in tin cans, and more rarely in earthen -jars surrounded by a kind of plaited matting. According -to whether the product comes by way of England, -New York, Bremen, or Hamburg, it is distinguished as -English, American, Bremen, or Hamburg Peru balsam. -The supply being frequently insufficient, the balsam is -subjected to many adulterations. A cheap, so-called -London Peru balsam always contained colophony and -had a specific gravity of 1.133. There can be no doubt -that pure unadulterated Peru balsam is difficult to -obtain.</p> - -<p>As adulterants, are used: Alcohol, volatile oils, fat -oil, especially castor oil; further, copaiba balsam, Canada -balsam, gurjun balsam, storax, benzoin, and asphaltum. -The establishment of these adulterants is connected -with difficulties; but the properties of Peru balsam -are so characteristic that it is quite easy to detect -whether it is genuine and pure, or not, the specific -gravity and proportions of solubility deserving especial -attention in this respect. The test by the specific -gravity is available, since most of the adulterants render -the balsam specifically lighter, especially alcohol, but -also copaiba balsam (specific gravity, O.95), castor oil -(0.96), oil of turpentine (0.87), gurjun (0.96), etc. The -customary procedure is as follows: Prepare a common<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> -salt solution of 1.25 specific gravity, by dissolving 1 part -of dried sodium chloride in 5 parts of distilled water; -drop the balsam into the solution; every drop of pure -Peru balsam sinks in a roundish form to the bottom; -but if the drop again comes to the surface and spreads -out upon it, it is a sure sign of some kind of adulteration. -However, the change in the specific gravity by -the admixture of fat oils is but very slight, since the -balsam can only be mixed with them to a conformable -fluid in the proportion of from 7 to 10 to 1. Castor oil -forms an exception in this respect, it being miscible also -in other proportions.</p> - -<p>Petroleum-ether is an excellent testing agent. Bring -into a test-tube about 2.5 grammes of Peru balsam, and -6 to 7 centimeters of petroleum-ether, close the tube -with the finger and shake vigorously; a brown, thickly-fluid -mass adheres in unequal layers to the sides of -the tube, and before running together remains in this -position 1 to 2 minutes after the petroleum-ether has -been poured into a porcelain saucer. If, however, the -mass is thinly-fluid, and does not, in the above-mentioned -manner, adhere to the sides of the tube, but, after shaking, -collects below the petroleum-ether, the balsam is -adulterated. After shaking, immediately pour off the -petroleum-ether; if the latter is almost colorless, or -but slightly colored yellowish, the balsam is pure; if, -however, it is turbid, and soon forms a sediment, or if -it is yellow or brownish, or brown, the balsam is adulterated.</p> - -<p>Alcohol is added either by itself or in the form of -saturated solution of storax, benzoin, or Canada balsam, -by which means the specific gravity of the balsam is but<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span> -slightly changed. Bring the above-mentioned common -salt solution, together with 20 grammes of the Peru -balsam to be examined, into a small flask, and distil off -about 5 grammes; gradually mix the distillate with 5 -drops of caustic potash lye and potassium iodide solution -saturated with iodine, shaking gently until the -mixture acquires a slightly yellow-brownish coloration. -If this coloration does not disappear in one minute, -add drop by drop more of the potash lye until discoloration -appears. In the presence of alcohol, yellow crystals -of iodoform, which are readily recognized under the -microscope by their form, collect on the bottom of the -fluid. Adulteration with a volatile oil is recognized in -the distillate by odor and taste.</p> - -<p>Fat oil, Canada balsam, copaiba balsam, gurjun balsam, -and volatile oil may be recognized by the following -tests: If pure Peru balsam in a porcelain saucer -is thoroughly mixed with an equal volume of pure concentrated -sulphuric acid, the mixture thereby becomes -heated, vapors of a pungent odor being emitted, and if -then set aside to cool, it congeals. In the presence of -fat or volatile oils, copaiba balsam, gurjun balsam, or -Canada balsam, it remains, however, more or less thickly -fluid or more or less soft-smeary. If the balsam be -pure, the cold mixture, after washing with water, should -yield a hardish or soft-friable mass, which, when -kneaded with the fingers, should not prove smeary or -sticky.</p> - -<p>Fat oils are also very readily recognized by the use -of warm petroleum-ether. The extract is evaporated, -saponified with potash lye, extracted with alcohol, evaporated -and decomposed with hydrochloric acid. A mix<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span>ture -of cinnamic acid and any of the fatty acids present -in the Peru balsam is thereby obtained, which, after -treatment with water, remains in the residue.</p> - -<p>Of copaiba balsam, Peru balsam can take up as much -as 25 per cent. From such adulterated balsam benzine -dissolves the copaiba balsam, together with cinnamein, -and the adulteration can then be recognized by -the odor. Cinnamein treated with sulphuric acid acquires -a cherry-red color, while in the presence of copaiba -balsam or gurjun balsam, a yellow-brown coloration -appears. The detection of an adulteration of Peru balsam -with storax is, according to Denner, effected as -follows: Shake in a test-tube 5 parts of the balsam -to be examined with 5 parts of a 15 per cent. soda solution -(soda lye of 1.60 specific gravity) and 10 parts -of water. Then shake with 15 parts of ether, and -after settling pour off the ether as much as possible. -Repeat the shaking with 15 parts of fresh ether. Now -heat the aqueous residue to boiling, acidulate with -hydrochloric acid, add cold water, remove the resin separated -thereby from the fluids, dissolve it in about 3 parts -of soda lye of the above-mentioned strength, dilute with -20 parts of water, heat to boiling, and precipitate with -barium chloride solution. Bring the precipitate upon -the filter, and, after allowing it to drain off, dry it in the -water-bath. Then extract it with alcohol, evaporate -the alcoholic extract, take it up with concentrated sulphuric -acid, add chloroform, and shake. In the presence -of gum benzoin or storax, the chloroform acquires a -violet to blue color. This method is a sure test for the -recognition of even very small admixtures.</p> - -<p>A content of asphaltum is readily detected by mixing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span> -the Peru balsam with ether compounded with about ⅛ -alcohol. Any asphaltum present remains undissolved, -and may be collected upon a filter.</p> - -<p>In perfumery Peru balsam is chiefly used for pomades -and fumigating pastilles, but also for cosmetics and -soaps.</p> - -<p><i>Tolu balsam</i> is the produce of <i>Myroxylon toluiferum, -Humb.</i>, <i>Bonpl.</i> et <i>Kunth</i>, <i>Toluifera balsamum, L.</i>, a -tree of the natural order <i>Papilionaceæ</i>, growing in -Northwestern South America. It exudes during the -heat of the day, and is collected in gourds. It soon -hardens, by which it is distinguished from Peru balsam. -In commerce two varieties of Tolu balsam are found, -one of the consistency of turpentine and the other solid. -The first variety, Brazilian balsam, forms a semi-fluid, -turpentine-like, sticky mass, of the color of copaiba -balsam. By long storage it becomes hard and brownish. -The solid variety, Tolu, or Carthagena balsam, is a -brittle, more or less translucent yellow-brown or red-brown -resin of a granular or crystalline appearance. It -softens at about 86° F., and melts between 140° and -149° F. Viewed under the microscope, it appears rich -in crystals of separated ciannamic and benzoic acids. -Its specific gravity varies between 1 and 2. Both varieties -of Tolu balsam have an aromatic, slightly pungent -and sourish taste, resembling somewhat that of Peru -balsam. They are readily soluble in ordinary spirit of -wine, alcohol, acetone, chloroform, and potash lye, but -insoluble in petroleum-ether and bisulphide of carbon. -In Tolu balsam have been found toluene, cinnamic and -benzoic acids, and several resins not yet sufficiently examined. -According to Scharling, toluene constitutes<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span> -about 1 per cent. of the Tolu balsam. It forms a colorless, -limp oil, boils, according to Deville, at 338° F., -and according to E. Kopp, at between 309° and 320° F., -and has a specific gravity of 0.858. It has a sharp, -pungent, pepper-like taste, and an odor resembling that -of elemi. In the air, it is gradually converted by -oxidation into a soft resin, without, however, becoming -colored.</p> - -<p>On boiling Tolu balsam with water, cinnamic and -benzoic acids are separated from the solution. When -treated with potash lye the resinous acids are fixed, and -the toluene floats upon the fluid.</p> - -<p>Commercial Tolu balsam is frequently more or less -mixed with vegetable remains, which, however, can be -readily detected with the microscope, especially after -the solution of the resinous constituents. It is frequently -adulterated with turpentine or pine resin. -Such adulterations may be detected by bisulphide of -carbon, which completely dissolves these substances, -but not the Tolu balsam. When pure Tolu balsam is -triturated with concentrated sulphuric acid, a cherry-red -fluid is, according to Ulex, obtained, which does not -evolve sulphurous acid, as is the case in the presence of -turpentine-resins.</p> - -<p>Tolu balsam is chiefly used for fumigating pastilles. -The tincture prepared from it is also frequently used -with advantage to give durability to the scent of handkerchief -perfumes.</p> - -<p>According to Holmes and Nalor, a Tolu balsam differing -in its chemical behavior is found in the English -wholesale trade. In thick layers it is yellow-brown, -but perfectly transparent and gold-yellow in thin layers<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span> -and extraordinarily sticky. By storage it hardens but -slightly, and does not become brittle even if exposed for -several days to a temperature of 212° F. Its odor reminds -one somewhat of glue, and it develops a pungent, -sharp taste only after chewing it for a few seconds. Its -melting point lies at 136.4° F., being lower than that -of ordinary Tolu balsam, from which it also differs in -that it completely dissolves in ether as well as in benzine, -while it is only partially dissolved by potash lye. -The balsam contains no toluene, nor a hydrocarbon, -boiling at 320° F. Further investigations have shown -it actually to be a natural product, the derivation of -which, however, could not be ascertained.</p> - -<p><i>Storax</i> is the produce of <i>Liquid ambar orientale, Mill</i>, a -plantain-like tree which reaches a height of about 32 feet. -In Southern Asia Minor, especially in Cyprus, the tree -forms handsome, dense forests. According to Flückiger, -the balsam is extracted from the peeled-off bark, with -the assistance of warm water. The mass thus melted -out sinks down in the water, and is later on combined -with the substance obtained by expressing the boiled -bark while still warm. This mixture forms the <i>liquid -storax</i> (<i>Storax liquidus</i>). The residue remaining after -expression is dried in the sun and forms, under the -name of <i>Cortex thymiamatis</i>, an article of commerce, -which is used for fumigating purpose, for the preparation -of ordinary storax, etc. The crude storax is brought -to Smyrna, Syra, and Kos, and comes into the European -market almost exclusively from Trieste.</p> - -<p>Liquid storax is a sticky, opaque substance of the consistency -of turpentine. It has a mouse-gray color, which -by contact with the air becomes brown on the surface,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span> -an agreeable benzoin-like odor, and a sharp, pungent, -aromatic taste. It is heavier than water, its specific -gravity being 1.112 to 1.115. On losing its content of -moisture (by drying out when heated) it becomes brown -and clear. When exposed to the air in a thick layer it -does not completely dry, and in a thin layer only after -considerable time; but when pressed with the finger -always shows a certain stickiness. It is partially soluble -in spirits of wine, yielding with it a more or less -turbid solution. It is also incompletely soluble in oil of -turpentine, benzine, petroleum-ether, and chloroform. -Viewed under the microscope liquid storax appears as a -colorless thickish fluid, intermingled with larger and -smaller drops, fragments of bark tissue, and now and -then, perhaps, with crystals of styracin and cinnamic -acid.</p> - -<p>Liquid storax contains styrol (10 to 15 per cent.), -styracin, and cinnamic acid (10 to 15 per cent.). Styrol -or cinnamol seems to be the most important carrier of -the odor and taste of liquid storax. If 20 parts of liquid -storax are subjected to distillation together with 15 parts -of crystallized soda and 200 parts of water, the cinnamol -collects in the form of a yellowish, very mobile liquid -upon the distillate. By rectification it can be obtained -colorless, but is thereby partially converted into metastyrol, -an isomeric, amorphous, odorless, and tasteless -substance which is solid at an ordinary temperature. -By exposure for some time to a heat of 608° F. it is -reconverted into styrol. Styrol (C<sub>8</sub>H<sub>8</sub>) forms a clear, -colorless, mobile liquid having an odor of benzine and -naphthalene. Its specific gravity is 0.924 and its boiling -point lies at 294.8° F. In water it is but sparingly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span> -soluble, but is miscible in all proportions with anhydrous -spirit of wine, chloroform, benzine, ether, and oils. It -stands in the same relation to cinnamic acid as benzol -to benzoic acid, and is formed by distilling a mixture of -cinnamic acid and barium oxide.</p> - -<p>Styracin is cinnyl cinnamate. On distilling liquid -storax with water, styrol passes over. If now from the -residue the cinnamic acid be withdrawn by means of -soda-solution, and the resin, which remains behind, be -treated with cold spirit of wine, styracin is left, which -crystallizes from ether, hot alcohol, or benzol. It forms -colorless, odorless, and tasteless crystals which melt at -113° F. and remain for a long time fluid after melting. -It is insoluble in water, but soluble in 25 parts cold, -and 2 parts boiling, spirit of wine, as well as in 5 parts -ether. By oxidizing substances it is converted into bitter -almond oil and benzoic acid, and by the action of potassium -hydroxide it is decomposed to cinnyl alcohol and -cinnamic acid.</p> - -<p>Good liquid storax should yield to 90 per cent. alcohol -at least so much soluble matter that the dried residue -of the filtered alcoholic solution amounts to 65 per -cent. of the quantity of storax.</p> - -<p>Ordinary liquid storax, which has not been stored too -long, contains 10 to 20 per cent. of water and about the -same quantity of impurities (fragments of plant tissue) -which remain behind on treatment with the above-mentioned -solvents.</p> - -<p>Liquid storax is said to be adulterated with the turpentines -of some species of larch and pine. Such adulteration -is primarily detected, according to Hager, by -the specific gravity. Take up a drop of the balsam<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span> -with a knitting-needle, and by heating the needle make -it fall into a cold solution of 1 part common salt and 8 -parts water. On stirring, the drop must sink, otherwise -adulteration with turpentine is very likely. Next bring -5 grammes of the storax into a test-tube, melt it in the -water-bath, add ½ volume of absolute alcohol, and mix -by shaking; then compound the mixture with several -times its volume of petroleum-ether, shake vigorously, -allow to settle, and decant the layer of petroleum-ether. -Repeat twice this shaking with petroleum-ether; then -evaporate the petroleum-ether solution in a tared flask -in the water-bath. The residue remaining after evaporation -is colorless, bluish opalescent, and of an agreeable -odor; in the presence of turpentine it is yellowish and -has the, not to be mistaken, odor of turpentine.</p> - -<p><i>Storax in grains</i> consists of round, longish grains of a -brown-black color and smooth, lustrous surface, which -soften by the warmth of the hand. It is nothing but -liquid storax brought into a granular form and by storing -freed more or less from impurities.</p> - -<p><i>Ordinary storax</i> (<i>Styrax calamitus</i> or <i>St. vulgaris</i>) is an -artificial product prepared by mixing liquid storax with -various comminuted vegetable substances. Formerly -the above-mentioned bark of the storax tree (<i>Cortex -thymiamatis</i>) was only used for this purpose, but at -present sawdust and exhausted cinnamon are also -taken. This storax forms a reddish or brown-black, -humus-like mass, which is generally moist. When -dried it is very friable and has a storax-like odor -distinctly calling to mind that of cinnamon. Good -qualities are abundantly covered with crystalline efflorescences -(of cinnamic acid and styracin); poorer quali<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span>ties -prepared with the addition of sawdust have a musty -odor. The admixed vegetable tissue can, according to -Wiesner, be readily recognized by boiling the storax -with alcohol, and after washing treating with dilute -chromic acid, to which a small quantity of sulphuric -acid has been added.</p> - -<p>Liquid storax was already used for fumigating purposes -by the ancient Greeks and Jews, and it forms to-day -a constituent of fumigating pastilles, essences, etc. -Storax tincture furthermore possesses the property of -giving more constancy to scents resembling it. Piesse -says, in regard to the odor of liquid storax, that it combines -the agreeable with the disagreeable, it possessing -partially an odor similar to that of the tuberose and -partially one reminding of coal-tar oil. However, it -possesses this disagreeable odor only in a concentrated -state; when finely divided or diluted, it diffuses a very -agreeable perfume.</p> - -<p>Under the name <i>American storax</i>, <i>white Peru balsam</i>, -<i>white Indian balsam</i> or <i>liquid ambar</i> is found in commerce -a product similar to storax, which is derived from -<i>Liquidambar styraciflua, L.</i>, a tree indigenous to Mexico -and Louisiana. This balsam forms a clear, transparent, -brownish-yellow, semi-fluid mass. It has a storax-like -odor, and a sharp and pungent taste. It is only -partially soluble in alcohol, specifically lighter than -water, and shows an acid reaction. It is said to consist -of 24 per cent. styracin, 1 per cent. benzoic acid, volatile -oil, etc. It is sometimes used for fumigating purposes, -but chiefly serves for the adulteration of Tolu balsam.</p> - -<p><i>Myrrh</i> (<i>Gummi-resina myrrha</i>, <i>Gummi myrrha</i>) is a -gum resin, the produce of <i>Balsamodendron Ehren<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span>bergianum, -Berg</i>, and, perhaps, also of <i>Balsamodendron -Myrrha, Nees</i>. The first-named tree is found in the -countries bordering on the Red Sea, and extends into -Africa to the Somali Coast, where the principal supply -of myrrh is collected. The gum-resin exudes naturally -as a white oil-like mass, which, after hardening, whereby -it becomes considerably darker, is collected by the natives -and brought chiefly to Berbera, a small seaport opposite -Aden, to be exchanged for English and Indian goods. -From there, by way of Aden and Bombay, it reaches -the European market. In Bombay the first sorting -takes place, which is, however, superficial, and hence -has to be repeated in Europe (London). According to -Parker, ten different resins are admixed with myrrh, -especially bdellium resins.</p> - -<p>In commerce <i>Myrrha electa</i> and <i>Myrrha vulgaris</i> or -<i>in sortis</i> are distinguished. <i>Myrrha electa</i>, the best -quality, occurs in pieces of irregular form and variable -sizes, consisting of tears—either distinct or agglomerated—usually -covered with a fine powder or dust. The surface -is seldom smooth, but generally rough or granular. -The color varies, being pale reddish-yellow, red, or reddish-brown. -The fracture is conchoidal, seldom smooth, -but rather granular, rough, of a fatty lustre, and sometimes -shows whitish striæ or veins, or opalesces like flint. -The fractured edges are more or less translucent; thin -disks or splinters are translucent or transparent. The -specific gravity is, according to Hager, 1.195 to 1.205, -and according to Ruickholdt, 1.12 to 1.18. A <i>Myrrha -electa</i> is the better, the more fragile, friable, and paler in -color it is, and the more rapidly it ignites and burns -with a yellow, sooty flame. Poorer qualities may be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span> -recognized by the dark-brown color and dirty appearance. -Myrrh is with difficulty rubbed to a fine powder, -this being possible only after drying, which must, however, -be done at a very moderate heat in order to prevent -loss of volatile oil.</p> - -<p>According to Hager, myrrh consists in 100 parts of -about 2.5 parts volatile oil (myrrhol), 25 to 35 parts -resin (myrrhin), 55 to 65 parts gum soluble in water, -3 to 8 parts salts, impurities, and water. Water forms -with myrrh an emulsion, and dissolves the gum. The -resinous constituents are dissolved by spirit of wine.</p> - -<p>The gum, which forms the portion of the myrrh -soluble in water, but insoluble in alcohol, and amounts -to from 57 to 59 per cent., is, according to Oscar Koehler, -a hydrocarbon of the formula C<sub>6</sub>H<sub>10</sub>O<sub>5</sub>. The portion -soluble in alcohol is, according to the same chemist, a -mixture of various resins, an indifferent soft resin of the -formula C<sub>26</sub>H<sub>34</sub>O<sub>5</sub>, soluble in alcohol and ether, forming -the greater portion of it. There are further present -two resin acids, one of which has to be considered a -bibasic acid of composition C<sub>12</sub>H<sub>16</sub>O<sub>8</sub>, and the other as a -monobasic acid of the formula C<sub>26</sub>H<sub>32</sub>O<sub>9</sub>. The principal -constituent of the volatile oil of which, according to -Koehler, 7 to 8 per cent. is present, while Ruickholdt -formerly found only 2.18 per cent. corresponds to the -formula C<sub>10</sub>H<sub>14</sub>O. The volatile oil is laevorotatory, and -when diluted with bisulphide of carbon becomes, according -to Flückiger, violet by the action of bromine. An -extract of myrrh, prepared with bisulphide of carbon, -gives the same reaction with bromine vapor. Hydrochloric -or nitric acid also colors myrrh violet, which -also applies to the volatile oil.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span></p> - -<p>Petroleum-ether should, at the utmost, take up 6 per -cent. of the myrrh, and the extract must be colorless.</p> - -<p>Myrrh is frequently contaminated with bark, which -forms either a film of cork as thick as paper or a crust -of a fibrous and, at the same time, brittle nature. Sand -or small pebbles are also frequently mixed with the -myrrh. Other varieties of gum or gum-resin, which -considerably decrease the value of the product, are often -found in the commercial article, the inferior qualities especially -being adulterated and mixed with dark pieces of -Suakim gum, gum of the plum or cherry tree, bdellium, -and similar substances, which are partially moistened -with myrrh tincture, and scattered over with myrrh -powder. Adulteration with gum-arabic, gum of the -plum or cherry tree, which are coated with alcoholic -myrrh solution, is recognized by the paler lustre, greater -transparency, and mucilaginous taste. Pieces of resin -melt on heating, while myrrh only swells up. Bdellium -is detected by the dark or black-brown color, toughness, -less bitter taste, and by crackling and spitting when held -in the flame of a candle, as well as by the reaction of -myrrh with nitric acid discovered by Bonastre. By mixing -5 cubic centimeters of alcoholic myrrh tincture with -5 to 10 drops of fuming nitric acid, a rose-color coloration -passing into red results. Parker gives the following -method for testing myrrh: Prepare a tincture of 1 part -myrrh and 6 parts spirit of wine. Saturate with this -tincture white filtering paper, allow it to drain off, and -then wrap it around a glass rod moistened with nitric -acid of 1.42 specific gravity. With genuine myrrh the -paper immediately becomes deep yellow-brown and then -black, while the edges of the paper strip appear dark<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span> -purple-red. When a few drops of the tincture of myrrh -are allowed to dry in, a transparent residue remains -behind. The tinctures of spurious articles (with the exception -of bissabol) give turbid residues.</p> - -<p>Myrrh was already in Moses's time an article used in -the sacrifices of the Israelites. It seems to have been -made use of by Democrates. Dioscorides enumerates -eight varieties of it, and Pliny seven, which he obtained -from Abyssinia. Herodotus and Diodorus -Siculus mention Arabia as the home of the myrrh tree.</p> - -<p>In perfumery, myrrh is chiefly used for dentifrices -and fumigating pastilles and essences.</p> - -<p><i>Opopanax</i> is the inspissated juice of the root of <i>Opoponax -Chironium, Koch</i>, or <i>Ferula Opoponax, L.</i> It -forms grains or lumps of a red-yellow or brown color, -and has a fracture of a waxy lustre. It can be rubbed -to a gold-yellow powder. It has a strong and peculiar -odor, and a very bitter and balsamic taste. With water -it forms an emulsion, while it is only partially soluble -in spirit of wine. It contains very little volatile oil, -and a resin which melts at 212° F., and is soluble in -ether and aqueous alkalies. It further contains gum, -organic and inorganic salts, and foreign admixtures. -Opopanax is but little used in perfumery. For <i>Extraits</i> -the opopanax oil is better adapted than the tincture prepared -from the gum, the latter coloring the <i>Extrait</i> dark.</p> - -<p><i>Olibanum or Frankincense</i> is the inspissated juice of various -varieties of <i>Boswellia</i>, partially indigenous to Africa -and partially to Asia. The pure pieces are pale yellow, seldom -reddish, transparent, or opaque, brittle, covered with -a mealy coating and of a splintery fracture. The specific -gravity of olibanum is 1.22; its odor is slightly balsamic, -and its taste bitter and pungent. It melts only incom<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span>pletely -when exposed to heat, diffusing an agreeable odor. -It consists in 100 parts of 5 to 7 parts of a clear volatile -oil, boiling at 323.6° F., and of specific gravity 0.86, 56 -parts of acid resin, and 30 to 36 parts gum, which corresponds -with gum-arabic. With water it forms a milky -fluid, and is mostly dissolved by spirit of wine. Selected -olibanum (<i>Olibanum electum</i>) is the best commercial variety, -while <i>Olibanum naturale</i>, <i>O. in lacrymis</i>, and <i>O. -in sortis</i>, form darker pieces intermingled with separate -paler grains, and contaminated by pieces of bark, and -wood and sand.</p> - -<p>Olibanum is only adulterated with sandarac and -naturally exuded pine resin, inspissated to tears by exposure -to the air. The former is recognized by the -fracture being glassy and transparent, and the latter by -completely dissolving to a clear solution in spirit of wine.</p> - -<p>Olibanum serves as an addition to fumigating pastilles, -etc.</p> - -<p><i>Sandarac</i> is the resin exuding from the bark of <i>Thuja -articulata, Desf.</i>, or <i>Callitris quadrivalvis, Vent.</i>, which -grows in Barbary. It forms pale yellow, transparent, -brittle grains with a glassy fracture, which have a specific -gravity of 1.06 to 1.09 and fuse readily. Its odor -is slightly balsamic and its taste somewhat bitter. Sandarac -softens at 212° F. and melts at 275° F. It dissolves -in hot absolute alcohol, ether, and amyl alcohol, -is less soluble in chloroform, petroleum-ether, and volatile -oils, and insoluble in benzol. In 90 per cent. alcohol -⅘ of it dissolve; the term <i>sandaracin</i> has been applied -to the insoluble portion. According to Unverdorben, -sandarac consists of three different resins. It -is sometimes employed in fumigating pastilles.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span> -</p> - -<div class="chapter"><h2><a id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h2></div> - -<p class="subh">PERFUME-SUBSTANCES FROM THE ANIMAL KINGDOM.</p> - - -<p>Musk is a peculiar concrete secretion obtained from -<i>Moschus mochiferus, L.</i>, an animal bearing a close resemblance -to the deer in shape and size, and indigenous -to the high plateaus of Asia. The musk is contained -in an oval, hairy, projecting sac, found only in the -male, situated between the umbilicus and the prepuce. -It is from 2 to 3 inches long and from 1 to 2 broad.</p> - -<p>In commerce, several varieties of musk are distinguished, -the principal ones, however, being Tonkin and -Kabardin musk.</p> - -<p><i>Tonkin</i>, <i>Thibet</i>, or <i>Oriental musk</i>, <i>Yunnan musk</i> (<i>Moschus -tonquinensis</i>, or <i>orientalis</i>, or <i>transgangetanus</i>) is the -best variety. It comes from China, Tonkin, and Thibet. -It consists of sacs of a puffed-up appearance, more roundish -than longish, varying in size, being at the utmost 1.77 -inches long, up to 1.57 inches broad and 0.59 to 1.18 -inches thick, and weighing from 8.46 drachms to 1 oz. -9.39 drachms each. The hairy side of the sac is concave -and the other flat. Fig. 21 shows an unshorn -Tonkin musk sac of medium size from the concave or -hairy side and Fig. 22 the same from the side. The -envelop of the sac consists of a double skin, the outer -skin being gray-brown. One side of the sac is covered -with stiff, yellowish hair with red-brown points, gener<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span>ally -cut short. The original packages, containing usually -24 sacs each, consist of longish, four-cornered -boxes lined with lead-foil and covered outside with -some silken stuff. Each sac is separately wrapped in -tissue paper. The musk-substance appears as a dark -red to black-brown mass intermingled with hair, and -forming roundish grains. The odor is penetrating and -the taste bitter.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig_21-.jpg" alt="Fig. 21, 22 and 23" /> -</div> - - -<p><i>Kabardin</i>, <i>Siberian</i>, or <i>Russian musk</i> (<i>Moschus sibirius</i>, -or <i>cabardinicus</i>) is a cheaper variety of an inferior quality, -which is brought from Mongolia and Siberia. The -sacs (Fig. 23) are longish, generally pear-shaped, flatter -in proportion to their longitudinal and latitudinal dimensions, -and not of a puffed-up appearance, the surface -being frequently even shrivelled or wrinkled. The outer -skin is denser and harder, and on the convex side covered -with longer hair (up to 0.9 inch long), of nearly a -silver or brownish color. Towards the edge of the sac -the hairs are, however, frequently so trimmed and shorn<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span> -as to give the sac a resemblance to the Tonkin article. -The musk-substance inclosed in the sac amounts to from -8.46 drachms to 1 oz. It is somewhat paler, more -brown or yellow-brown, soft, almost unctuous, when -fresh, but after storing, solid or granular-pulverulent, -like ground, burnt coffee. The odor is weak, offensive, -more urinose, resembling that of castor, or horse sweat.</p> - -<p><i>Moschus ex vesicis</i> is said to be the musk taken from -Tonkin sacs. As a rule, however, it consists of a mixture -of musk substance taken from good sacs which present -a bad appearance, or have been torn, and from sacs -of an inferior quality, frequently adulterated with foreign -substances, such as dried blood, dung of birds, -weathered bicarbonate of soda, etc.</p> - -<p>To open a musk sac, cut it with a sharp penknife -around where the hairless side joints the hairy side, and -empty it by scraping it out upon a sheet of paper. The -membranes and hair are then removed by means of -pincers.</p> - -<p>The musk-substance of the Tonkin sacs is generally -a heavy, dry-feeling mass; it is partially intermingled -with and partially enveloped by small, thin, soft, brown, -somewhat transparent membranes and frequently mixed -with small hair. It is partially loose and crummy, and -partially consists of various lumps or grains of the size -of a mustard seed to that of a pea, which are more or -less roundish, more seldom angular, softer or harder -(but can always be readily cut), of a fatty lustre and -black-brown or dark-red color. In fresh sacs, the mass -is frequently soft, and, when bruised, somewhat smeary, -but never unctuous. On rubbing, it becomes paler in -color, and glistening hair-like, paler, gray or whitish<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span>yellow -particles, sometimes of a crystalline texture, -appear. The odor of the musk substance is peculiar, -strong, and very constant; it is agreeable only when -much diluted.</p> - -<p>Musk is not a substance of a constant chemical and -physical constitution, the reason for this being found in -the age and the different foods of the musk animal, the -season in which it is killed, and the degree of dryness -of the musk-substance. Water dissolves ¾ of good -musk and 90 per cent. alcohol ½. The alcoholic solution -is not precipitated by water. Musk further contains -fat-like substances, wax, gall-substances (together -10 to 12 per cent.), glue-substances and albumen (6 to -9 per cent.), traces of lactic and butyric acids, phosphates, -sulphates and hydrochlorates of the alkalies and alkaline -earths, frequently strong traces of ammonium carbonate -and a volatile oil, further moisture, humus-substance, -and fibrous matter.</p> - -<p>Musk, when dried, has a weak odor, which gradually -becomes stronger on moistening. There are several substances -which destroy the musk odor, especially bitter -almonds, camphor, sulphur, acids and sulphates. The -odor adhering to a mortar in which musk has been -rubbed can best be removed by pounding bitter almonds -in it.</p> - -<p>Since, on account of the high price of musk, the musk -animal is much hunted, there is a possibility of it becoming -in time extinct. For this reason a substitute -has been long searched for, and is believed to have -been found, especially, in the American musk-rat -(<i>Fiber zibethicus</i>), which is chiefly hunted for its skin. -In this animal the musk is found in two small sacs<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span> -located between the anus and generative organs, and is -emitted when the animal becomes excited. According -to R. S. Cristiani, this musk is invaluable for the -toilet soap industry of America, it being nearly as good -and strong as genuine musk. Cristiani has formerly -used much of it for scenting soaps, powders, etc., but -does not recommend it for essences. When used for -soaps, some time is required for the odor to become refined, -and if a piece of soap scented with it is stored -for a few months, it would, according to Cristiani's -assertion, be difficult even for an expert perfumer to -distinguish the odor from that of genuine Tonkin musk.</p> - -<p>As possible substitutes for the musk deer may further -be mentioned a species of rat indigenous to the West -Indies, and an antelope of North Africa. It is also -said that musk derived from the Mississippi alligator -has been brought into commerce. The sacs are said to -be small, the odor somewhat different from that of -genuine musk, resembling that of civet, but suitable for -perfuming purposes.</p> - -<p>A process for the preparation of <i>artificial musk</i> has -been patented by Dr. Baur, of Gispersleben. According -to the specification, toluol is mixed with the halogen -compounds of butane and boiled with the addition of -aluminium chloride or aluminium bromide. The product -of the reaction is mixed with water and distilled -with steam. The fraction passing over between 338° and -392° F. is caught and treated with fuming nitric acid -and fuming sulphuric acid. The product obtained is -washed with water and alcohol, and crystallized. The -artificial musk forms an amorphous white powder, -which in time becomes yellow. It is readily soluble<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span> -in 90 per cent. alcohol, but from solutions in weaker -alcohol it again crystallizes out at a cool temperature. -The odor becomes very pronounced after the addition of -5 drops of ammonia to 1 pound of a one per cent. -solution.</p> - -<p>This artificial product having been in existence but -for a short time, it is not possible to come to a final conclusion -as to its availability. However, its odor differs -essentially from that of the genuine article, and it can -scarcely be employed for fine extracts; if low enough in -price it might, however, be suitable for soaps and -cheaper perfumes.</p> - -<p>Musk is very much adulterated, the Chinese being -adepts in this sophistication. Dried blood, on account -of its resemblance to musk, is among the most common -adulterations, but, besides this, sand, iron filings, hair, -the dung of birds, wax, asphaltum, and many other -substances are introduced. They are mixed with a -small portion of musk, the powerful odor of which is -communicated to the entire mass, and renders the discovery -of the fraud sometimes difficult. The bags containing -the musk should have the characteristics before -described as belonging to the natural sac, and present -no sign of having been opened. One of the grossest -frauds, which is also perpetrated in Europe, consists, -according to Hager, in perforating the musk sac with a -needle, placing it in strong rum or weak spirit of wine, -and, after pressing it with the fingers, washing with spirit -of wine and drying in the air. By this means a tincture -suitable for perfuming purposes is obtained, while the -musk-substance is increased in weight by the absorption -of moisture. Sacs thus treated are, however, readily<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span> -recognized, they being, after drying, gnarled and uneven.</p> - -<p>Good musk-sacs should yield from 50 to 60 per cent. -of musk. An admixture of blood is detected by the -musk acquiring a putrid odor when moistened with -water. The presence of pieces of metal, pebbles, resin, -etc., is recognized by the naked eye or with the assistance -of a magnifying glass. The microscope reveals, in pure -musk, white and brownish, irregularly-formed grains, -cells, oil drops, and, generally, also fungoid threads. -Genuine musk burns with a white flame and leaves a -gray ash, which should not amount to more than from -5 to 8 per cent.</p> - -<p>In perfumery musk is used for soap, sachet powders, -and extracts. By itself it is, however, scarcely employed, -not even for the so-called musk soaps or musk extracts. -It is chiefly valued by the perfumer for its property of -rendering other perfumes used in combination with it -more durable and bringing out their scent. For scenting -soaps the musk must first be prepared. If to be -used for milled soaps, it is triturated in a mortar with -clear sugar, while for cold stirred soaps, weak potash -lye of at the utmost 3° to 5° Bé. is poured over it. -Weak lye makes the odor more pronounced, while strong -lye destroys it.</p> - -<p><i>Civet</i> (<i>zibethum</i>) is derived from two animals of the -genus <i>Viverra</i>. The actual civet cat (<i>Viverra civetta, L.</i>) -lives in the hottest parts of Africa from the Guinea Coast -and the Senegal to Abyssinia, where it is carefully bred -for its civet. The product is also obtained from <i>Viverra -zibetha, L.</i>, indigenous to the Moluccas and Philippines. -The civet is secreted in a cavity between the anus and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span> -the external genitals, and is scraped out with a spoon. -It is semi-liquid, unctuous, yellowish, becoming brown -and thicker by exposure to the air, of a bitter, disagreeable, -fatty taste, and of a peculiar, urinose, disagreeable -odor, resembling that of musk which becomes agreeable -only when much diluted and mixed with other -perfumes. When ignited it burns with a bright flame, -leaving behind 3 to 4 per cent. of ash. It is insoluble -in water; in spirit of wine it partially dissolves with -difficulty, and with greater ease in warm ether and in -chloroform. It should form a homogeneous, non-crumbling -mass. According to M. Boutron Chalard, it contains -free ammonia, stearin, olein, mucus, resin, a yellow -coloring substance, salts, and a volatile oil, the latter -giving the odor to it. In perfumery, civet is chiefly used -as an addition to other perfumes in order to strengthen -them and make them more constant. It is also employed -for perfuming fine leather articles.</p> - -<p><i>Castor</i> or <i>castoreum</i> is a peculiar concrete substance -obtained from <i>Castor fiber</i> or the beaver. In both sexes -between the anus and external genitals -are two pear-shaped sac-like follicles -(Fig. 24) united at their thin ends. -The follicles contain, when fresh, a -semi-liquid substance which becomes -more solid by drying. The castor occurring -in commerce is generally dried -by smoke.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<img src="images/fig_24.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">Fig. 24.</div> -</div> - -<p>In commerce two principal varieties -are distinguished: Siberian or Russian -and Canadian, English or American castor, the first -being the most valuable. The length of a Siberian sac<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span> -varies between 2.36 and 4.72 inches, the width between -0.98 and 2.55 inches, and the thickness between 0.78 -and 1.57 inches; it weighs from 1.76 to 8.81 ozs. One -of the sacs is generally somewhat smaller than the other. -The exterior skin of the sac is almost smooth and, in a -dry state, dark brown; the interior is dirty yellow, intermixed -with a dense cellular tissue, which envelops the -castor-substance and is grown together with it. In a -dried state, the latter is dark brown, without lustre, -almost friable, of a very strong, peculiar odor, and a -pungent, somewhat bitter, aromatic taste.</p> - -<p>The sacs of Canadian castor are smaller than the -Siberian, they being at the utmost 3.15 inches long, -0.98 inch thick, and darker and uneven. The interior -mass is resinous, hard, with a lustrous fracture, red-brown, -and can be readily pulverized. The odor is -weaker, somewhat musty and ammoniacal, and the taste -more bitter and less pungent than that of the Siberian -castor.</p> - -<p>Castor is much adulterated—pebbles, pieces of lead, -dried blood, etc., being frequently found in the sacs. -These frauds can generally be detected in cutting the sac -open. Spurious sacs are said to be frequently found -among the genuine sacs of Canadian castor. These -spurious sacs are prepared by drying a mixture of castor, -resin, dragons' blood, etc., in the scrotum of goats.</p> - -<p>In perfumery, castor is now very seldom used, the -perfumers preferring musk and civet, which, certainly, -give a somewhat different scent.</p> - -<p><i>Ambergris</i> is a fatty, waxy substance, often found floating -on the sea on the coasts of Arabia, Madagascar, Japan, -etc. It is also found in the cæcum of the sperm whale<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span> -(<i>Physetus macrocephalus, Schow</i>), and is supposed by -some to be a morbid secretion in the urinary bladder. -According to Mr. Beale, it merely consists of the indurated -fæces of the animal, perhaps somewhat altered by -disease. It has a gray-white color, often with a black -streak and a slight agreeable odor, like that of benzoin, -which becomes more pronounced on heating. When -held for some time in the hand it becomes soft and -flexible. It melts at the temperature of boiling water, -and, when more strongly heated, volatilizes in the form -of a white vapor, leaving but slight traces of ash behind. -Its specific gravity is 0.8 to 0.9. It is insoluble in -water, sparingly soluble in cold spirit of wine, and -more readily so in hot spirit of wine, ether and volatile -and fat oils. It is almost completely soluble in absolute -alcohol. Though ambergris crumbles readily, it can -only with difficulty be converted into coarse powder. -With the finger it can be polished like hard soda-soap.</p> - -<p>The principal constituent of ambergris is ambrin or -ambrein, a non-saponifiable fat, which, from a saturated -alcoholic solution of ambergris, crystallizes, after standing -for some time, in the form of verrucose, whitish or -lustrous acicular crystals. According to John, ambergris -consists of 85 per cent. ambrin, 12.5 per cent. sweet -balsamic extract, further benzoic acid, sodium chloride, -and 1.5 per cent. insoluble brown residue. When distilled -with water, ambergris yields 13 per cent. of a -volatile oil having an agreeable odor. A red-hot iron -wire readily penetrates ambergris, and from the hole thus -made flows an oily liquid of a strong and agreeable -odor.</p> - -<p>On account of its high price, ambergris is frequently<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span> -adulterated, the commercial article being often nothing -but an artificial mixture of benzoin, olibanum, wax, and -flour, with other substances, perfumed with musk. Such -adulterations are detected by the appearance, proportions -of solubility, nature of the fracture and the content of -ash. A small quantity of pure ambergris, exposed to -heat, melts without forming bubbles or scum. It is -easily punctured with a heated needle, which, when -withdrawn, should come out clean and without anything -adhering to it, and the characteristic odor of ambergris -should be immediately evolved. The surface should be -rugged, that with a smooth and uniform surface being -generally factitious.</p> - -<p>In perfumery, ambergris is not so much used on -account of its agreeable odor, but rather to make the -perfumes more constant.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span></p> - - - - -<div class="chapter"><h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</a></h2></div> - -<p class="subh">ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS.</p> - - -<p>In speaking of the volatile oils used in perfumery, -two artificial perfume-materials, artificial oils of bitter -almonds and wintergreen have already been mentioned. -There can be no doubt that when the chemical construction -of volatile oils is better known, chemistry will succeed -in preparing still more such combinations, valuable -for perfumery, or in converting cheap volatile oils into -more valuable ones, as has, for instance, been done by -Bouchardat and Lafont, who have successfully converted -oil of turpentine into oil of lemons. These chemists -rectified French oil of turpentine at exactly 311° to -314.6° F., dissolved in the distillate, which amounted -to 120 grammes, an equal quantity (120 grammes) of -glacial acetic acid, cooled the mixture and then carefully -added, so that the temperature never exceeded 104° F., -88 grammes of crystallized chromic acid dissolved in a -sufficient quantity of acetic acid. Notwithstanding that -the greater portion of the oil of turpentine remained unoxidized, -a thorough reaction took place, and the product -of decomposition proved to be a hydrocarbon, boiling at -from 345.2° to 352.4° F., to which Bouchardat and -Lafont have applied the term "terpilene." The properties -of this hydrocarbon, especially its boiling point, -corresponded with those of oil of lemons, its odor also<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span> -resembling that of the latter, but it contained about one-sixth -cymol which it was impossible to remove. Though -thus far this artificial oil of lemons is of no importance -for perfumery, it is of interest as showing the possibility -of converting one volatile oil into another.</p> - -<p>The artificial musk, spoken of under "Musk," cannot -be classed with the previously-mentioned artificial perfumed-materials. -The odoriferous principle of the -natural and artificial musk have nothing in common, -the odor depending not on a common chemical combination.</p> - -<p>Besides the artificial perfume-materials already mentioned, -but a few others are employed in perfumery, -viz: <i>Cumarin</i>, <i>heliotropin</i>, <i>vanillin</i>, and <i>nitrobenzol</i>, or -<i>oil of mirbane</i>. Another series of artificial perfume-materials, -the so-called fruit ethers, have also been -recommended for perfumery purposes. Although such -products are sometimes used, their employment is not -advisable, since they produce an irritating effect upon -the bronchial tubes and respiratory organs, and frequently -cause headache.</p> - -<p><i>Cumarin.</i>—The agreeable odor of new-mown hay is -chiefly due to the sweet-scented vernal grass (<i>Anthoxanthum -odoratum, L.</i>). This grass contains an odoriferous -substance, the <i>cumarin</i>. The latter is also found in -many other plants; for instance, in the tonka bean (the -seeds of <i>Dipterix odorata</i>), in the sweet woodruff (<i>Asperula -odorata</i>), and, combined with melilotic acid, in -the melilot (<i>Melilotus officinalis, Descr.</i>).</p> - -<p>Cumarin forms small, colorless crystals of a silky -lustre. It is very hard, cracks between the teeth, -shows a smooth fracture, and sinks in water. It has<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span> -a very agreeable aromatic odor, which, on rubbing the -substance with the fingers, becomes like that of oil of -bitter almonds, and has a bitter, warm, and pungent taste. -When pure it melts at 152.6° F., but when containing -fat, like that separated from tonka beans, at from 104° -to 122° F. Its boiling point lies at 554° F.; it volatilizes, -however, at far lower temperatures, diffusing an -odor resembling that of oil of bitter almonds, and sublimating -in white needles. It is soluble in alcohol, -ether, acetic acid, fat, and volatile oils. Of cold water -(59° F.) 400 parts are, according to Buchner, required -for its solution, but of boiling water only 45 parts.</p> - -<p>Tonka beans are the ripe seeds of <i>Dipterix odorata</i>. -They are much used in perfumery on account of their -content of cumarin, and formerly constituted the initial -point for its manufacture. In commerce two varieties -are distinguished, viz., <i>Dutch tonka beans</i>, derived from -<i>Dipterix odorata, Willd.</i>, indigenous to the forests of -Guiana, and <i>English tonka beans</i>, from <i>Dipterix oppositifolia, -Willd.</i>, indigenous to Cayenne.</p> - -<p>The Dutch tonka bean is 1.18 to 1.57 inches long, -0.39 to O.59 inch wide, and O.27 to O.43 inch thick. It -is generally slightly curved, provided under the point -with the hilum, and covered with a thin, fragile, brown-black -or black skin of a fatty lustre, upon which small -crystals of cumarin are generally found, so that it appears -coated, especially in the wrinkles, with a whitish -dust. The kernel consists of two yellow-brownish oleiferous -catyledons, between which layers of cumarin are -generally found. The odor is agreeable, resembling -that of melilot, and the taste aromatic bitter. Dutch -tonka beans contain fat, sugar, malic acid, and malate<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span> -of lime; further, starch, gum, and 1 to 5 per cent. of -cumarin (C<sub>9</sub>H<sub>6</sub>O<sub>2</sub>). The English tonka beans are -smaller, white-yellowish inside, nearly black outside, -and of inferior quality to the Dutch beans.</p> - -<p>From tonka beans, cumarin may be obtained by two -different methods. One method consists in repeatedly -extracting the bruised beans with spirit of wine, distilling -the latter off from the extract, and mixing the residue -with cold water, whereby cumarin contaminated -with fat is precipitated. To remove the fat, bring the -whole to the boiling point, filter the hot solution -through a moist filter upon which the fat is retained, -and allow to cool, whereby the greater portion of the -cumarin crystallizes out; the remaining small portion -is obtained by evaporating the mother-lye.</p> - -<p>According to the other method, the bruised tonka -beans are distilled with water. After 24 hours the -greater portion of the cumarin separates in a crystalline -form. The residue remaining in solution can be withdrawn -from the water by shaking with petroleum-ether -and subsequent evaporation of the solvent. From one -pound of good tonka beans, up to 4 drachms of cumarin -may be obtained.</p> - -<p>Cumarin is sometimes also obtained by purifying by -recrystallization of the débris found in the original boxes -of tonka beans, which chiefly consists of cumarin.</p> - -<p>Perkin has recently succeeded in artificially preparing -cumarin from salicylic acid. By boiling the sodium -salt of the latter in acetic anhydride for a few minutes -and then pouring into water, an oil-like body is separated, -whilst sodium acetate passes into solution. The -former is a mixture of acetic anhydride, salicylic acid<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span> -and cumarin; in distilling, the latter passes over last -(at 554° F.), and congeals in the receiver to a crystalline -mass.</p> - -<p>Cumarin is now synthetically prepared by several -firms, that brought into the market by Schimmel & Co., -of Leipsic, especially being of excellent quality. Although -artificial cumarin is considerably lower in price -than that obtained from tonka beans, most perfumers -still prefer the extract from tonka beans prepared by -themselves. There is, however, no good reason for this, -since a change in the respective receipts for perfumes -presents no difficulties, 8.46 drachms of cumarin corresponding -to 2.2 lbs. of best tonka beans.</p> - -<p><i>Heliotropin</i> or <i>piperonal</i> is of great importance in -the manufacture of perfumes. It forms small, colorless -prismatic crystals, which have an agreeable odor of héliotrope. -Upon the tongue heliotropin produces the same -sensation as oil of peppermint under the same conditions, -the sensation being, however, more lasting. It melts at -about 104° F., and volatilizes at a higher temperature -without leaving a residue. It is soluble in alcohol and -ether, and insoluble in cold water; in hot water it melts -to an oily liquid which floats upon the water.</p> - -<p>Exposed to the action of heat and air, heliotropin acquires -an uncomely appearance, balls together and, under -very unfavorable circumstances, turns brown. It is -then entirely decomposed and useless, and, hence, should -be kept in summer in as cool a place as possible. A -temperature of 95° F. has already an injurious effect -upon the perfume, and it is best not to buy it at all in -the hot summer months. To preserve the perfume in -its entire freshness, it is advisable for consumers in hot<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span> -climates to at once dissolve the heliotropin in alcohol -and to keep the solution in a cool place.</p> - -<p>Pepper serves as the initial point for heliotropin or -piperonal, the white variety being the best for the purpose. -To obtain piperine, contained in varying qualities -(7 to 9 per cent.) in pepper, the latter is repeatedly -extracted with boiling alcohol. The extract is then -evaporated to one-third its volume, or the greater portion -of the alcohol is distilled off, and the resinous mass, -obtained after the addition of water, is repeatedly washed -in water with the addition of a small quantity of potash -or soda lye, dissolved in alcohol and purified by repeated -recrystallization. To convert the white-yellow piperine -thus obtained into potassium piperate it is, together with -equal parts of potassium hydroxide and 5 to 6 parts of -alcohol, kept gently boiling for 24 hours in a well-closed -flask provided with an ascending Liebig cooler. A capacious -flask should be used, as the mass pounds quite -vigorously. After cooling, the precipitate, which is obtained -in yellowish, lustrous lamina, is separated through -a filter from the dark-brown mother-lye, washed with -cold alcohol and several times recrystallized from hot -water. A further discoloration may be effected by the -addition of animal charcoal.</p> - -<p>The potassium piperate thus obtained forms nearly -colorless prisms in verucose groups, which, however, -turn yellow when exposed to light. By boiling the -alcoholic mother-lye with ⅓ of the previously used potash-lye, -further small quantities of potassium piperate may -be obtained.</p> - -<p>To obtain piperonal from the potassium piperate, dissolve -1 part of the latter in 40 to 50 parts of hot water,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span> -and then slowly introduce, with constant stirring, a solution -of 2 parts potassium permanganate in 50 parts of -water. This precaution is absolutely necessary, as otherwise -the piperonal formed would be partially further oxidized -and lost. The paste-like mass formed is passed, -while still hot, through a straining cloth, and the residue -repeatedly washed with boiling water until it shows -nothing more of the characteristic odor of héliotrope. -The wash-waters are combined with the first filtrate, -and subjected to distillation over a free fire.</p> - -<p>The first distillates are richest in piperonal, it generally -separating already in the cooler. The fractionally -caught distillate is allowed to stand one or two days in -as cool a place as possible, whereby the greater portion -of the piperonal separates in a crystalline form or in fine -lamina. To obtain the piperonal still remaining dissolved -in the water, the mother-lye, after the separation -of the crystals through a filter, may be repeatedly agitated -with ether, whereby the piperonal dissolves in the -ether. The latter is carefully distilled off at as low a -temperature as possible (104° to 122° F.) in the water-bath -or allowed naturally to evaporate.</p> - -<p><i>Vanillin.</i>—Vanilla is the not entirely ripe, pod-like, -capsular fruit (wrongly called pod), of a tropical orchid -(<i>Vanilla planifolia, Andrews</i>), which is cultivated in -Mexico, the West Indies, and South America. It is -extensively used for flavoring, and its odoriferous substance -is highly valued in perfumery. The cross-section -of the capsule is thick and fleshy, filled with very small, -black, lustrous seeds stuck together by a gummy balsam -with which they are coated. The capsule has a sourish -taste and has no value, the seeds, or rather the balsam<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span> -enveloping the seeds, being the substance on which the -odor and taste of vanilla depend. When the vanilla -fruit becomes ripe, the capsule opens and empties its -content of seeds in the form of a balsam-like mass.</p> - -<p>The lustrous black-brown surface of vanilla is -frequently coated with white, delicate crystals, which -were formerly taken for benzoic acid. Bley and Vee -first recognized them as a peculiar substance, which was -further examined by Gobley and Stokkebye. This substance, -to which Gobley applied the term <i>vanillin</i>, is the -chief odoriferous substance of vanilla. It is deposited -upon the vanilla-crystals, when the latter are densely -and closely packed together and for some time exposed -to a heat of about 77° F. Of vanillin, vanilla contains -1.5 to 2.75 per cent.; the Mexican variety containing -1.69 to 1.32 per cent., the Bourbon No. I, 2.48 to 1.91 -per cent., Bourbon No. II, 1.55 to 0.75 per cent., and -the Java, 2.75 to 1.56 per cent. It is singular, that the -highly valued Mexican vanilla has, generally speaking, -a lower content of vanillin than the other varieties.</p> - -<p>At present, vanillin is prepared artificially. Tiemann -and Harmann first showed that by the oxidation of -coniferin, a glucoside occurring in the cambial sap of the -<i>Coniferæ</i>, a product, perfectly identical with the vanillin -prepared from vanilla, is obtained. The coniferin is -obtained by barking the pine or silver fir, scraping -together the sap under the bark together with a portion -of the liber and pouring it into a vessel. The sap is -then pressed off, boiled to separate the albumin, filtered, -evaporated to one-fifth its volume, and set aside to -crystallize. One hundred quarts of sap are said to yield -from 1 to 2 pounds of coniferin-crystals. By now<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span> -allowing an aqueous coniferin-solution to run into a -heated mixture of 10 parts potassium bichromate, 15 -parts concentrated sulphuric acid, and 80 parts water, -and heating for 3 hours in a flask with back-flow cooler, -a liquid is obtained from which ether takes up a yellow -oil. After treating the latter with animal charcoal, dissolving -in ether and evaporating the latter, there remain -colorless, acicular crystals of the odor and taste of -vanilla. These crystals consist of vanillin contaminated -with some vanillic acid. To separate the latter, purify -with acid sodium sulphite and recrystallize. After this -operation, vanillin represents a nearly white crystalline -powder which melts at from 176° to 177.8° F. In -this form it is brought into commerce as a complete substitute -for vanilla, 5.64 drachms of it corresponding to -about 1 pound of vanilla. A medium-sized pine tree -is said to yield vanillin of the value of 80 marks -($19.20).</p> - -<p>Vanillin may also be prepared by oxidation from -eugenol. Oil of cloves is diluted with three times its -volume of ether and agitated with weak caustic potash -solution to fix the eugenol on the potash. By acidulating -the alkaline solution and shaking with ether, the -eugenol is collected. After distilling off the ether, the -eugenol is converted with acetic anhydride into aceteugol, -and the latter oxidized with dilute, moderately-warmed -potassium permanganate solution. The filtrate is made -slightly alkaline, concentrated, then compounded with -acid and the vanillin extracted with ether.</p> - -<p>Vanillin (C<sub>8</sub>H<sub>8</sub>O<sub>3</sub>) forms small colorless prisms of a -strong vanilla odor, a warm, vanilla taste, and an acid -reaction. It is readily soluble in hot water, alcohol,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span> -ether, chloroform, fat and volatile oils, as well as in -solutions of caustic alkalies and alkaline carbonates. It -melts when heated to from 176° to 177.8° F.; at a -higher temperature it sublimates without leaving a -residue.</p> - -<p>According to a notice published in the "Deutsch-Amerikanischen -Apotheker Zeitung," vanillin adulterated -with benzoic acid has occurred in the United States. A -sample subjected to examination is said to have been -nothing but benzoic acid perfumed with vanillin. Such -an adulteration can be detected with the microscope, -since vanillin crystallizes in acicular crystals, and benzoic -acid in lamina, which can be readily recognized. -Pure vanillin melts at 176° F., while the melting points -of such mixtures are considerably higher, it being in -one case at 249° F. By extracting such mixture with -thin sodium carbonate solution, benzoic acid passes into -solution. After neutralizing with hydrochloric acid, the -filtrate yields with ferric chloride a fawn-brown precipitate -of ferric benzoate, and on adding hydrochloric acid -in excess, the benzoic acid, which dissolves with great -difficulty in cold water, is precipitated. By treating the -latter, or the ferric benzoate, with dilute sulphuric acid -and magnesium, the benzoic acid is reduced to benzaldehyde, -which is recognized by its characteristic odor -of oil of bitter almonds.</p> - -<p><i>Nitrobenzol</i> is obtained by treating benzol, or a mixture -of it, with toluol and their higher homologues, with -strong nitric acid, or a mixture of nitric and sulphuric -acids, washing the product of reaction with water and -soda, caustic soda or ammonia, expelling the unaltered -hydrocarbons with steam and rectifying the residue.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span> -Three varieties distinguished by their boiling points and -odor occur in commerce. The nitrobenzol or oil of -mirbane (<i>essence de mirbane</i>) is the so-called <i>light nitrobenzol</i>, -which boils at from 401° to 415° F. The -<i>heavier</i> varieties boil at a higher temperature and have -a more or less disagreeable odor; they are used in the -manufacture of aniline and aniline colors.</p> - -<p>Pure oil of mirbane is pale yellow, the finest qualities -being colorless and almost as clear as water. It has an -agreeable odor resembling that of oil of bitter almonds, -a specific gravity of 1.186 to 1.2 = 25° Bé., and congeals -at 37.4° F. to a crystalline mass. It is scarcely -soluble in water, sparingly so in alcohol and with difficulty -in watery spirit of wine; it is miscible in all proportions -with ether, benzine, volatile oils, and most fat -oils.</p> - -<p>Oil of mirbane is largely manufactured in England, -but the German product is now generally preferred, it -being purer and does not impart to soap perfumed with -it a yellowish tinge. The finest oil of mirbane is prepared -from pure crystallizable benzol, and again purified -by washing with potassium bichromate and sulphuric -acid, and by rectification with steam.</p> - -<p>Pure nitrobenzol suffers no change by boiling with -soda lye, while the poorly rectified product colors the -lye yellow or brown.</p> - -<p>Nitrobenzol is frequently adulterated with spirit of -wine, which is recognized by shaking the oil with fat -oil of almonds; in the presence of spirit of wine a turbid -mixture is formed. By shaking nitrobenzol containing -spirit of wine with an equal volume of water -in a graduated cylinder, its volume decreases.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span></p> - -<p>Oil of mirbane is much used for perfuming soaps, but -even the finest quality of it cannot replace oil of bitter -almonds for fine soaps and perfumery. Great care has -to be exercised in storing, as well as in working, nitrobenzol, -it igniting very readily, and it is also poisonous. -Even the vapors, when inhaled for some time, may produce -symptoms of poisoning, which consist in the skin -acquiring a leaden color, and heavy feelings in the limbs -with cold extremities, especially the hands and feet.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Fruit Ethers.</span> At the London Exhibition, in 1851, -various products called apple oil, pear oil, pine-apple oil, -etc., were shown. They were examined by A. W. Hofmann, -and found to consist of solutions of certain ethers -in alcohol. Since then the manufacture has greatly increased -and large quantities are now brought into commerce -under the name of <i>fruit ethers</i> or <i>fruit essences</i>.</p> - -<p>Fruit ethers are fluids possessing an agreeable, refreshing -odor closely resembling that of some fruits. For -this reason they are used in confectionery, in the manufacture -of liqueurs and also as a substitute for volatile -oils, in the manufacture of perfumery. Chemically, fruit -ethers are combinations of an organic acid—acetic, butyric, -valerianic, etc.—with a so-called alcohol radicle, such -as ethyl and amyl. The preparation of fruit ethers being -connected with many difficulties, is seldom attempted by -perfumers, especially as products of an excellent quality -can at a low rate be procured from chemical laboratories -making a specialty of their manufacture. However, for -the sake of completeness, a brief description of the fabrication -of the principal ethers used in their preparation -shall here be given.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Acetic amyl ether</i> or <i>amyl acetate</i>, C<sub>5</sub>H<sub>11</sub>O.C<sub>2</sub>H<sub>3</sub>O, is -prepared by mixing 1 part of amyl alcohol with 1 part -of concentrated sulphuric acid, and distilling the mixture -with 2 parts of potassium acetate. The distillate -is washed with water, to which some carbonate of soda -has been added, and then rectified over magnesia. It -forms a colorless liquid of an agreeable fruity odor. It -boils, according to Kopp, at 280° F. and, at 59° F., its -specific gravity is 0.8692.</p> - -<p>For use in perfumery, the ether is best prepared, according -to Fehling's directions, by heating for some -time at a temperature of 212° F. 1 part of glacial acetic -acid with ½ part of sulphuric acid and one part of amyl -alcohol. By then adding water the ether is separated. -By this process distillation is avoided.</p> - -<p><i>Acetic ethyl ether</i> or <i>ethyl acetate</i>, C<sub>2</sub>H<sub>3</sub>O.O.C<sub>2</sub>H<sub>5</sub>. -Acetic ether is formed by the decomposition of sodium -acetate by ethyl sulphuric acid:—</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="left">SO<sub>2</sub></td><td align="left">┌OC<sub>2</sub>H<sub>5</sub><br />└OH</td><td align="left">+</td><td align="left">C<sub>2</sub>H<sub>3</sub>O.ONa</td><td align="left">=</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">Ethyl sulphuric acid.</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center">Sodium acetate.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">SO<sub>2</sub></td><td align="left">┌ONa<br />└OH</td><td align="left">+</td><td align="left">C<sub>2</sub>H<sub>3</sub>O.OC<sub>2</sub>H<sub>5</sub></td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">Acid sodium sulphate.</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center">Acetic ether.</td></tr> -</table></div> -<p>One molecule of sulphuric acid or 98 parts is mixed -with one molecule of alcohol or 46 parts, or with 1 -molecule of alcohol of 90 per cent. which contains 85.75 -per cent. of absolute alcohol, hence with 53.6 parts of -alcohol, and distilled with 1 molecule or 82 parts of -anhydrous sodium acetate. Since commercial sulphuric<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span> -acid always contains 5 or 6 per cent. of water, this has to be -taken into consideration, and 105 to 106 parts of it have -to be used in order to decompose the entire quantity of -sodium acetate. The crude sodium acetate found in commerce -may be used. It is nearly white and at the utmost -contaminated by traces of sulphuric acid and -chlorine, which in this case are not injurious. The -crystallized salt is heated in an iron kettle whereby it -melts in its water of crystallization. With constant -stirring the water is then completely evaporated until -an entirely dry mass of salt remains behind. The latter -may be quite strongly heated without fear of destroying -the acetic acid. The dried salt is immediately powdered, -passed through a medium fine sieve and kept for use -in well-closed vessels.</p> - -<p>On a large scale the distillation of the ether may -be effected in an iron kettle, which is provided with a -well-fitting lid and connected by a copper head with a -cooling apparatus—a worm lying in cold water. Bring -into the kettle the required quantity of concentrated sulphuric -acid, add, with vigorous stirring, the alcohol and -allow the mixture to rest for 24 hours. Then throw the -dry sodium acetate into the mixture, mix it thoroughly, -by stirring, with the ethyl sulphuric acid, and, after -luting all the joints of the apparatus, heat at first moderately. -Distillation proceeds quietly and uniformly, -the fire being regulated according to how the ether runs -off from the worm. Such uniform distillation is, however, -only attained by the use of the sodium acetate in the -form of powder, and thoroughly mixing it with the acid. -If large pieces of the salt are present or the powdered -salt balls together, the formation of ether sometimes takes<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span> -place so suddenly that the vapors cannot condense in the -cooling apparatus, but escape violently, or if they cannot -escape rapidly from the condenser, may even burst the -apparatus. The reason for this is that the larger pieces -float in the superheated acid without being saturated by -it, and, when they suddenly collapse, form a mass of -ether-vapors.</p> - -<p>Distillation is continued until that which at last passes -over is not inflammable. With the above-mentioned -proportions 88 parts of acetic ether are formed, but as -some water always passes over, distillation need not be -interrupted until the receiver contains at least 90 parts -of crude ether.</p> - -<p>The crude ether always contains more or less water, -some alcohol, and a small quantity of free acetic acid. -With the above-mentioned proportions, the content of -alcohol can, however, be only very small. To neutralize -the acetic acid, add some burnt magnesia or shake with -carbonate of soda solution until the acid reaction disappears. -For the absorption of the water and alcohol, add -as much sharply dried (not fused) calcium chloride as -the fluid will dissolve, and then let it stand with an -excess of the salt for one day. The calcium chloride -combines with the water and alcohol and separates as a -heavy layer beneath the ether. The latter is decanted -off and brought into a rectifying vessel—a copper still, -heated by steam, and provided with a cooling pipe. The -ether is distilled off at a moderate heat, the last portion, -about 1/10, being caught in a special receiver, to be again -rectified at the next operation.</p> - -<p>According to Grossschopf, 40 lbs. of pulverized anhydrous -sodium acetate, together with a cooled mixture of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span> -46 lbs. of concentrated sulphuric acid and 37 lbs. of 95 -per cent. alcohol, free from fusel oil, are distilled in a -copper still heated by steam. Distillation is continued -with constant stirring by means of an apparatus in the -still, until no more fluid smelling and tasting of acetic -ether passes over. The crude distillate, amounting to 55 -or 56 lbs., is brought into bottles which are filled ⅔ full. -The bottles are then filled up with water and potassium -carbonate is added until the fluid, after shaking, shows -no acid reaction. The aqueous fluid beneath the ether -is then drawn off by means of a siphon, and the ether -several times washed by shaking with water and allowing -to settle. Since the wash-water absorbs a quite considerable -quantity of ether, it is collected and subjected -to rectification, whereby an alcoholic acetic ether is obtained. -The ether, being freed from acetic acid and -alcohol by neutralization and washing, is brought in -contact with fused calcium chloride to free it from -water, and finally rectified over magnesia. In this -manner 36 to 37 lbs. of pure acetic ether are obtained.</p> - -<p>Acetic ether is a clear, colorless fluid of a pleasant, -etheral odor. It boils at 170.6° F., and at 59° F. its -specific gravity is 0.9068. Pure acetic ether dissolves -in 11 to 12 parts of water; a content of alcohol or the -addition of water increases its solubility. Hence, its -solubility in water is a criterion of its purity.</p> - -<p><i>Benzoic ether</i> or <i>ethyl benzoate</i>, C<sub>7</sub>H<sub>5</sub>O.OC<sub>2</sub>H<sub>5</sub>, is most -readily prepared by mixing 4 parts of alcohol, 2 parts -of crystallized benzoic acid, and 1 part fuming hydrochloric -acid, and for some time heating the mixture in a -flask. The benzoic acid is thereby gradually and completely -converted into ether. The fluid is mixed with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span> -water, whereby the ether is completely separated. It is -several times washed with carbonate of soda solution, -and, for the purpose of withdrawing the last trace of -free acid, distilled over lead oxide. It forms a colorless -oil of an aromatic odor, specific gravity 1.0502, and -boils at 412° F. In cold water it is insoluble. However, -like all varieties of ether, it dissolves readily in -alcohol and ether.</p> - -<p><i>Butyric ethyl ether</i> or <i>ethyl butyrate</i>, C<sub>4</sub>H<sub>7</sub>O.OC<sub>2</sub>H<sub>5</sub>. -The preparation of this ether must be preceded by that -of butyric acid. The latter is obtained, according to -Bensch, by dissolving 6 lbs. of cane sugar and 8 drachms -of tartaric acid in 13 quarts of hot water, allowing the -liquid to stand a few days and then adding 7 ozs. of old -rotten cheese, which has been stirred up in 4 quarts of -skimmed sour milk and 3 lbs. of finely pulverized chalk. -The mixture must be kept at a uniform temperature of -from 86° to 95° F. for some weeks, from time to time -mixing it by stirring, and replacing the water lost by -evaporation.</p> - -<p>By the action of a ferment the sugar is first converted -into lactic acid. In 10 to 12 days the entire mass congeals -to a paste of calcium lactate. By now allowing -fermentation to proceed without interruption, it gradually -enters another stage; gas bubbles consisting of carbonic -acid and hydrogen rise up, until in the course of -5 or 6 weeks the process is finished. This is recognized -by the fluid becoming quiet, no more gas being evolved. -The fluid then contains a solution of calcium lactate, -which is converted into the corresponding sodium salt -by the addition of 8 lbs. of crystallized soda. It is then -filtered and concentrated by evaporation to 5 quarts. By<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span> -adding 5½ lbs. of sulphuric acid, diluted with an equal -volume of water, butyric acid is separated as a dark-colored -oily mass.</p> - -<p>The crude butyric acid thus obtained and freed from -water by shaking with calcium chloride, is a mixture of -acetic, butyric, and capric acids, but does not contain -propionic and valerianic acids. To obtain from it pure -butyric acid, fractional distillation is required. For -manufacturing on a large scale, a copper distilling apparatus -with silver head and silver cooling pipe is used, -the bulb of a thermometer being placed in the head. In -the first rectification, the receiver is changed after the -thermometer has risen to 311° F.; the portion passing -over between 311° and 329° F. is caught up by itself, -and the receiver being again changed, distillation is continued -until finished. The first distillate contains mostly -acetic acid, besides a small quantity of butyric acid, the -second the greater portion of the butyric acid besides -a little acetic and capric acids, while the third consists -chiefly of capric acid. For preparing butyric ether for -technical purposes, the fraction passing over between -311° and 329° F. is sufficiently pure. To obtain chemically -pure butyric acid, the rectification of the portion -passing over between 311° and 329° F. is in the same -manner repeated, until finally a product with a constant -boiling point at 324.2° F. is obtained.</p> - -<p>Butyric acid fermentation proceeds more rapidly by -using, instead of rotten cheese, putrefying meat, and in -place of sugar, starch paste or mashed boiled potatoes, -1 part of meat to 4 parts of starch or a corresponding -quantity of potatoes being employed. The same products -are formed as in the preceding process, but much<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span> -more rapidly, fermentation being finished, according to -Schubert, in 5 to 6 days.</p> - -<p>Butyric acid, C<sub>4</sub>H<sub>7</sub>O.OH, or C<sub>3</sub>H<sub>7</sub>COOH, is a liquid -of a very sour taste and odor, and at an intense cold congeals -to a crystalline mass which melts at 32° F. In a -pure state it boils at 324.2° F. It is soluble in water, -but separates again if soluble salts are added to this solution. -Its specific gravity, after being completely freed -from water, is 0.974.</p> - -<p>Besides the normal butyric acid, there is known -another one called <i>isobutyric' acid</i> or <i>dimethyl acetic acid</i>. -It is distinguished from the normal acid by being less -soluble in water and by its boiling point, which lies at -309.2° F. It occurs in St. John's bread or carob, in -the volatile oil from <i>Arnica montana</i> and in croton oil.</p> - -<p><i>Butyric ether</i> is formed by mixing 2 parts of butyric -acid with 2 parts of alcohol and 1 part of sulphuric -acid. The fluid is heated to 176° F., and, after being -for several hours kept at that temperature, is poured -into cold water, whereby the ether separates as an oily -fluid. It is then separated from the aqueous solution, -washed with water to which some chalk has been added -for the neutralization of the free acid, and finally the -water is withdrawn from the ether by, for several days, -leaving it in contact with calcium chloride. To obtain -it entirely pure, it is only necessary to distil it once. It -forms a clear, very mobile fluid of a pine-apple odor, -and a specific gravity of 0.900. It boils at 249.8° F.</p> - -<p>Commercial butyric ether, large quantities of which -are used for the preparation of the so-called <i>pine-apple -ether</i> or <i>essence</i>, is seldom pure, it being generally obtained -from simply rectified butyric acid. According to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span> -another method, which is, however, not as profitable, it is -obtained by distilling butter-soap with alcohol and sulphuric -acid. For this purpose, bring 20 pounds of -butter-soap, cut up in small pieces, into a distilling apparatus, -pour over it 10 pounds of 90 per cent. alcohol -and heat moderately until the soap is dissolved. Since -a portion of the alcohol evaporates thereby, add 10 -pounds more of alcohol and then 20 pounds of sulphuric -acid. On further heating, a fluid of a very agreeable -odor distils over, which is an alcoholic solution of the -ethers of the volatile acids found in butter. Towards -the end of the operation, in consequence of the further -progress of decomposition, a development of sulphurous -acid generally takes place. This is removed from the -distillate by allowing it to remain for several days in -contact with finely-pulverized pyrolusite (peroxide of -manganese) and rectifying over burnt magnesia. In the -first distillation, the heavy volatile acids of the butter -remain behind; they are freed from the excess of sulphuric -acid and the sulphate of sodium or potassium by -washing with hot water, and can be utilized in the -manufacture of soap.</p> - -<p>The butyric ether obtained from butter-soap is far -from being pure butyric ether, it containing, besides it, -a mixture of various kinds of ether derived from the -volatile acids—caproic, capric, and caprylic acids. However, -these varieties of ether possess similar properties -to that of butyric acid; in alcoholic solutions their taste -and odor are nearly alike, and hence can be employed -in this mixture for the preparation of essences of an -agreeable odor and taste.</p> - -<p>A suitable material for the preparation of butyric<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span> -ether is also the St. John's bread or carob, the pods of -<i>Silequa dulcis</i>. Redtenbacher established in them the -occurrence of about 2 per cent. butyric acid, which -Gruenzweig later on proved to be isobutyric acid. Besides -butyric acid and other volatile acids, St. John's -bread contains about 40 per cent. of fermentable varieties -of sugar, which can be utilized after their conversion to -butyric acid. For this purpose Stinde has proposed the -following process: Convert the pods together with the -seeds to a coarse powder; bring 100 lbs. of this powder -into a capacious barrel placed in a warm place, and pour -sufficient water of 82.5° F. over it, to form a thin paste; -after 4 to 5 days add 24 lbs. of whiting and await fermentation. -The paste, which gradually becomes thicker, -is from time to time stirred, and, if necessary, a small -quantity of lukewarm water added. In summer fermentation -is finished in six weeks, after which the -preparation of the ether is proceeded with.</p> - -<p>For this purpose bring the paste into a still provided -with a steam jacket; the evening before mix 36 lbs. of -concentrated sulphuric acid with 60 lbs. of alcohol of 95 -per cent., and add the mixture to the paste in the still; -then lute the joints of the distilling apparatus, and -quickly introduce steam. Distillation soon commences, -and, when once introduced, is continued with a moderate -admission of steam.</p> - -<p>The first pound of the distillate is caught by itself, -and, after changing the receiver, distillation is continued -until but little passes over, even with an increased admission -of steam. Thus an abundant yield of alcoholic -butyric ether is obtained. When distillation is finished -20 lbs. more of alcohol may be brought into the still;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span> -the distillate obtained thereby being still rich in butyric -ether.</p> - -<p>The St. John's bread used should be of the best -quality, free from worms and mould, as otherwise the -ether would not possess the pure, agreeable odor characteristic -of butyric ether.</p> - -<p><i>Formic ethyl ether</i>, or <i>ethyl formate</i>, CHO.OC<sub>2</sub>H<sub>5</sub>.—This -ether is also much manufactured for the preparation -of the so-called essences which are employed for -the purpose of imitating the odor of plants, fruits, etc. -It is formed by the action of formic acid upon alcohol, -or by bringing ethyl sulphuric acid, or a mixture of alcohol -and sulphuric acid, in contact with formates, or -finally by bringing formic acid at the moment of its -formation in contact with alcohol.</p> - -<p>The most simple process is that recommended by -Lorin:—</p> - -<p>Into a capacious distilling apparatus connected with -the cooling pipe, so that the distillate constantly flows -back, bring 1 part, by weight, of glycerin of the consistency -of syrup, add ¼ of its weight of crystallized -oxalic acid and the same quantity of alcohol of 90 to -95 per cent. With moderate heating a vigorous development -of gas soon takes place. The oxalic acid in -contact with the glycerin splits into formic acid and -carbonic acid, according to the following equation:—</p> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="center">┌COOH<br />└COOH</td><td align="center">=</td><td align="center">CHO.OH</td><td align="center">+</td><td align="center">CO<sub>2</sub>.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center"></td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Oxalic acid.</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center">Formic acid.</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center">Carbonic acid.</td></tr> -</table></div> - - -<p>The glycerine does not undergo alteration thereby. -The nascent formic acid converts the alcohol present<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span> -into formic ether, water being separated. When, after -continued heating, the development of carbonic acid -abates, add the same quantities of oxalic acid and alcohol -to the contents of the still, heat again until but little -carbonic acid is evolved, and then add, twice in succession, -the same quantities of oxalic acid and alcohol as -before, until finally as much oxalic acid is consumed as -glycerin has been employed. When the evolution of -carbonic acid ceases, the receiver is reversed and the -ether distilled off. The glycerin remaining behind is -again concentrated to the consistency of syrup, and may -be re-used.</p> - -<p>The distillate is freed from free acid by the addition -of magnesia, and the alcohol and water are separated by -shaking with calcium chloride, after which the pure -ether is obtained by rectification.</p> - -<p>Formic ether is colorless, thinly-fluid, of a pleasant -smell, specific gravity 0.945, boiling point 130° F., -soluble in cold water, and miscible in every proportion -with alcohol and ether.</p> - -<p><i>Nitrous ether</i>, or <i>ethyl nitrite</i>, C<sub>2</sub>H<sub>5</sub>.ONO.—In a pure -state this ether is best prepared according to the method -given by E. Kopp. It consists in bringing equal volumes -of alcohol and ordinary nitric acid together with -copper filings into a distilling apparatus, which is so -arranged that the vapors first pass through a flask filled -with water of 77° F., then through a calcium chloride -tube, and are finally condensed in a receiver surrounded -by snow and common salt. The nitric acid is first decomposed -by the copper, nitrous acid being thereby developed, -which is so transposed that its radicle NO -occupies the position of the typical hydrogen in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span> -alcohol, while the rest of the acid forms water with the -hydrogen of the alcohol. By the reaction such a quantity -of heat is liberated that the process requires assistance -by external heating only towards the end of the -operation. In the receiver is then a pale yellow fluid -having the taste and odor of apples and, at 59° F., a -specific gravity of 0.947. According to Liebig, the -boiling point of nitrous ether lies at 61.5° F.; hence -it can be condensed only by careful cooling, and has to -be kept in glass tubes fused together. In water it is -but sparingly soluble, but readily so in alcohol. By -the addition of water it is separated from the alcoholic -solution.</p> - -<p>Mohr has modified Kopp's method as follows: Mix -alcohol of 0.833 specific gravity, water, and nitric acid -of 1.200 specific gravity, each 24 parts and add 4 parts -of copper filings. Of this mixture draw off 24 parts of -distillate, mix the latter with litmus tincture and neutralize -the free acid by adding, drop by drop, solution -of caustic potash or soda until the litmus tincture becomes -blue. Rectify the distillate and catch of it 8 -parts. Compound the latter with 16 parts alcohol of -0.833 specific gravity, whereby the product is made equal -to the quantity of alcohol originally used. The product -is kept in glasses holding from 2 to 3 ozs. each. This -alcoholic nitrous ether is of a yellow color, very strong -and has a pure odor.</p> - -<p>In England and America, nitrous ether is much used -for aromatizing whiskies and for other purposes. According -to Stinde<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> it is prepared on a large scale as -follows:—</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span></p> - -<p>A stone-ware flask of at least 120 lbs. capacity, such -as is used for the preparation of chlorine, is so placed -upon a tripod in a sheet-iron cylinder that the neck projects -over the edge of the cylinder. The space between -the flask and the walls of the cylinder is completely filled -with mats or coarse pack-cloth. A steam-pipe enters the -lower part of the cylinder, while a cock placed on the bottom -of the cylinder serves for discharging the condensed -water. The cylinder is closed by a sheet-iron cover provided -in the centre with a hole through which passes the -neck of the flask. The flask is filled with 60 lbs of 90 -per cent. alcohol free from fusel oil, to which, in small -portions, 15 lbs. of crude nitric acid of 36° Bé. are added.</p> - -<p>The neck of the flask is provided with an exactly-fitting -tube of pure tin. The tube is bent twice at a right -angle, and one end is provided with an annular piece to -prevent it from slipping too far into the interior of the -flask. The joints between the tube and the neck of the -flask are luted with a stiff paste of flaxseed meal, a wet -strip of linen being, for greater security, wrapped over -the cement. The other end of the tin-tube, which here -occupies the place of a still-head, is in the same manner -connected with a long tin-worm lying in a large cooling -vat.</p> - -<p>Everything being prepared, but little steam is at first -introduced into the iron cylinder in order to slowly -warm the apparatus. When this is done the admission -of steam is gradually increased. The mats or pack-cloth -placed between the walls of the cylinder and the flask -prevent the latter from bursting, which otherwise might -readily happen. Distillation commences in about ten -minutes. The admission of steam is then moderated,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span> -care being had that the ether passes over in an uninterrupted -stream of the thickness of a goose-quill.</p> - -<p>When, with the admission of the same amount of -steam, the distillate commences to run drop by drop, the -steam-cock is closed and the operation interrupted, this -being the case in about six to seven hours.</p> - -<p>The next day the flask—without removing the residue—is -charged in the same manner. However, the third -day only 30 pounds of alcohol are poured in.</p> - -<p>The combined distillates come into a copper still with -double walls, between which steam can be admitted, -and are neutralized with dry calcium hydrate. The -cooling pipe connected with the still consists of tin, and -is provided with a beak dipping into a flask filled half-full -with 4 pounds of alcohol. A slight current of steam -suffices for distillation. The first distillate is dark -yellow, and contains large quantities of aldehyde. Notwithstanding -careful cooling, the vapors can be but incompletely -condensed, and their inhalation has to be -carefully avoided, they producing stupor and headache -as well as inflammation of the eyes. When the distillate -is colorless and shows no reaction with litmus paper, -the receiver is removed and replaced by a large glass -balloon in which the entire distillate is collected. Distillation -must be quickly finished, as otherwise colored -ether is obtained.</p> - -<p><i>Valerianic amyl ether</i> or <i>amyl valerate</i>, C<sub>5</sub>H<sub>11</sub>O.C<sub>5</sub>H<sub>9</sub>O.</p> - -<p>This ether is formed by treating amyl alcohol with -chromic acid. However, besides the ether a large -quantity of valerianic acid is also formed, which has to -be converted by itself into ether.</p> - -<p>To prepare the ether bring 5½ parts of powdered<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span> -potassium dichromate together with 5 parts of water -into a distilling apparatus and very gradually add a -mixture of 1 part amyl alcohol and 5 parts concentrated -sulphuric acid. The fluid becomes so strongly heated -that it almost boils. When reaction is finished, heat -and distil off the rest. The distillate consists of two -layers; the lower one being an aqueous solution of -valerianic acid and the upper one a mixture of valerianic -acid and amyl valerate. To separate both, add concentrated -carbonate of soda solution until all the free acid -is neutralized. The oily liquid separating thereby is -the ether. It is separated from the valerianate of -sodium, the latter evaporated to a small volume, and, -after cooling, sufficient sulphuric acid to fix the entire -quantity of the soda is added. The valerianic acid is -thereby separated, and floats upon the solution of the -sodium sulphate. It is separated from the latter, and -1¼ parts of it are added to a mixture of ¾ part of amyl -alcohol and 1 part sulphuric acid and heated to 212° F. -After the addition of water, the apple-ether separates -and only requires washing with water and some sodium -carbonate to yield a pure product.</p> - -<p>The separation of the valerianic acid can, however, -be readily avoided. Evaporate the neutral solution of -the valerianate of soda to dryness in the water-bath, -weigh off 1 molecule, or 124 parts, and gently heat -it with a mixture of 1 molecule or 98 parts of sulphuric -acid (on account of the content of water in the commercial -acid, 105 parts of it will have to be taken) and -1 molecule or 88 parts of amyl alcohol.</p> - -<p>The ether thus obtained is a fluid, which, in a concentrated -state, does not possess an agreeable odor, but<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span> -when mixed with 10 parts of alcohol imparts to the -latter an odor resembling that of apples. It boils at -from 370° to 374° F., and at 64° F. has a specific -gravity of 0.8793.</p> - -<p><i>Valerianic ethyl ether</i> closely resembles the amyl ether, -and, like it, is prepared from valerianate of sodium, -ordinary alcohol, and sulphuric acid.</p> - -<p><i>Apple ether</i> essentially consists of valeric amyl ether, -of which 1 part is dissolved in 6 to 10 parts of strong -alcohol.</p> - -<p><i>Apricot ether</i> is butyric ether with some amyl alcohol.</p> - -<p><i>Cherry ether</i> is acetic ether with benzoic ether.</p> - -<p><i>Pear ether</i> contains acetic amyl ether.</p> - -<p><i>Pineapple ether</i> is butyric ether.</p> - -<p><i>Strawberry ether</i> is acetic ether with acetic amyl ether -and butyric ether.</p> - -<p>The ethers are dissolved in various proportions in -alcohol, according to the intensity of the odor which it -is desired to obtain. The aroma of most of them is -generally increased by a slight addition of chloroform.</p> - -<p>For the preparation of different fruit essences Kletzinsky<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> -gives the following directions. The figures -indicate additions in cubic centimeters to 1 liter of rectified -alcohol of 90 per cent.:—</p> - -<p><i>Apple essence.</i>—Chloroform 10, nitrous ether 10, aldehyde -20, acetic ether 10, valeric amyl ether 100, oxalic -acid<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> 10, glycerin 40.</p> - -<p><i>Apricot essence.</i>—Chloroform 10, butyric ether 100,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span> -valeric ether 50, peach oil 10, amyl alcohol 20, butyric -amyl ether 10, tartaric acid[11] 10, glycerin 40.</p> - -<p><i>Cherry essence.</i>—Acetic ether 50, benzoic ether 50, -peach oil 10, benzoic acid[11] 10, glycerin 30.</p> - -<p><i>Currant essence.</i>—Aldehyde 10, acetic ether 50, benzoic -ether 10, grape-seed oil 10, tartaric acid[11] 50, succinic -acid[11] 10, benzoic acid[11] 10.</p> - -<p><i>Grape essence.</i>—Chloroform 20, aldehyde 20, formic -ether 20, grape-seed oil 100, wintergreen oil 10, tartaric -acid[11] 50, succinic acid[11] 30, glycerin 100.</p> - -<p><i>Lemon essence.</i>—Chloroform 10, nitrous ether 10, -aldehyde 20, acetic ether 100, oil of lemons 100, tartaric -acid[11] 100, succinic acid[11] 10, glycerin 50.</p> - -<p><i>Melon essence.</i>—Aldehyde 20, formic ether 10, butyric -ether 40, valeric ether 50, glycerin 30.</p> - -<p><i>Orange essence.</i>—Chloroform 20, aldehyde 20, acetic -ether 50, formic ether 10, butyric ether 10, benzoic ether -10, wintergreen oil 10, acetic amyl ether 10, orange-peel -oil 100, tartaric acid[11] 10, glycerin 100.</p> - -<p><i>Peach essence.</i>—Aldehyde 20, acetic ether 50, formic -ether 50, butyric ether 50, valeric ether 50, peach oil -50, amyl alcohol 20, glycerin 50.</p> - -<p><i>Pear essence.</i>—Acetic ether 50, acetic amyl ether 100, -glycerin 100.</p> - -<p><i>Pineapple essence.</i>—Chloroform 10, aldehyde 10, -butyric ethyl ether 50, butyric amyl ether 100, glycerin -30.</p> - -<p><i>Plum essence.</i>—Aldehyde 50, acetic ether 50, formic -ether 10, butyric ether 20, peach oil 40, glycerin 80.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Raspberry essence.</i>—Nitrous ether 10, aldehyde 10, -acetic ether 50, formic ether 10, butyric ether 10, benzoic -ether 10, grape-seed oil 10, wintergreen oil 10, -acetic amyl ether 10, butyric amyl ether 10, tartaric -acid[11] 50, succinic acid[11] 10, glycerin 40.</p> - -<p><i>Strawberry essence.</i>—Nitrous ether 10, acetic ether 50, -formic ether 10, butyric ether 50, wintergreen oil 10, -acetic amyl ether 30, butyric amyl ether 20, glycerin -20.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span></p> - - - - -<div class="chapter"><h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</a></h2></div> - -<p class="subh">ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES.</p> - - -<p>The alcoholic perfumes, also called "<i lang="fr">Extraits -d'Odeurs</i>," are divided into flower-odors, "<i lang="fr">Extraits aux -fleurs</i>," and into compound odors, "<i lang="fr">Bouquets</i>." The extracts -of French flower pomades form the foundation of -all <i lang="fr">Extraits d'Odeurs</i>, all other additions serving the -purpose of rendering these odors more pronounced and -durable. Hence the art of the perfumer consist in attaining -this object as perfectly as possible by the correct -composition of the perfume-materials at his disposal. -If, for instance, the flower-odor <i>jasmine</i> is to be prepared, -it would not be sufficient to simply use the -alcoholic extract of jasmine-pomade for the purpose, -since the odor of jasmine would soon volatilize in the -air or upon the handkerchief, if the perfumer did not -understand how to prevent it. To prevent the rapid -volatilization of the scent, to retain it or to fix it, extracts -of various perfume-materials, known as tinctures or -extracts are used.</p> - -<p>The method of preparing the flower-pomades in -France has already been described on p. 58 <i>et seq.</i> It -need here only be added that, according to their quality, -these pomades are designated by different numbers by -the French manufacturers. There are three qualities, -which by some manufacturers are designated as No. 6,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span> -No. 18, and No. 30; and by others as No. 12, No. 24 -and No. 36, so that No. 6 and No. 12, No. 18 and No. -24, as well as No. 30 and 36 correspond to each other. -Pomades No. 6 or No. 12 are not suitable for the preparation -of extracts, they containing but little actual extract -of flowers, and are generally mixtures touched up with -volatile oils. They are almost exclusively used for hair -pomades, for which they are well adapted. No. 18 or -No. 24 is the quality generally employed by the perfumer -for alcoholic extracts. No. 30 or No. 36 is the -strongest, and, hence, most expensive flower-pomade, -and is used only by a few perfumers who have customers -for the finest qualities of <i lang="fr">Extraits d'Odeurs</i>.</p> - -<p>When freshly prepared, the above-mentioned flower -pomades do not possess the fine odor of the respective -flowers, the full aroma being developed only after about -six months. The tin-canisters containing them should be -provided with well-fitting lids and kept in a cool, dry -cellar. Thus stored, flower-pomade keeps for about five -years, with the exception of jasmine and tuberose, which -keep only for about two years.</p> - -<p>In order to show how the extraction of flower-pomades -is effected, we will take, as an example, 2 lbs. of French -flower-pomade No. 18 and 3½ quarts of best alcohol.<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> -This proportion yields a good and sufficiently strong -extract for the preparation of <i>Extraits d'Odeurs</i>. It -must, of course, be suited to the size of the extracting -apparatus, 8 lbs. of flower-pomade and 14 quarts of alcohol -being, for instance, taken, though that depends<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span> -on the quantity of the respective extract required by the -perfumer. It is, however, best that the apparatus should -be as completely filled as possible so that it contains but -little air.</p> - -<p>The gaining of alcoholic extracts from flower-pomades -is best effected in a special apparatus, one of the -simplest kind for the purpose being shown at Fig. 25.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<div class="caption">Fig. 25.</div> -<img src="images/fig_25.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>It consists of two cylinders, <i>A</i> and <i>A<sub>1</sub></i> of stout sheet-iron -provided with well-fitting lids. Through the centre -of each lid passes a vertical iron shaft <i>a</i> and <i>a<sub>1</sub></i> which -carries in the interior of the apparatus several horizontal -arms <i>b</i>, <i>b<sub>1</sub></i>, <i>b<sub>2</sub></i>. These vertical shafts can be rapidly revolved -by the horizontal shaft <i>c</i>. Before bringing the -flower-pomade into the apparatus, it is melted in the -water-bath at a temperature, which, under no conditions, -should exceed 88.25° F. The alcohol is also heated to -88.25° F. and added to the melted pomade in the appa<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span>ratus. -The arms with which the vertical shaft is provided, -keep the mass in the apparatus in constant -motion and prevent the pomade from settling on the -bottom. The apparatus is arranged to be driven either -by hand or steam, a fly-wheel instead of a pulley, being -in the first case provided at <i>g</i>.</p> - -<p>Where the manufacturer has steam-power at his disposal, -the apparatus may be connected with the transmission -and allowed to run for 48 to 60 hours during -working time. After the expiration of this time, proceed -to strain off the finished extract (No. 1) as follows: -Over a clean tin vessel stretch a close, white -linen cloth, and pour the entire contents of the apparatus -upon the latter; the liquid portion runs through -the cloth into the vessel, while the pomade remains -behind upon the cloth. Finally, the cloth is thoroughly -wrung out in order to obtain as much alcoholic extract -from the pomade as possible. Bring the extract, No. 1, -thus obtained into a glass flask, allow it to stand in a -cool cellar for about 48 hours, and then filter it through -paper into another glass bottle. This filtering through -paper is necessary, even if the extract should appear -clear and pure, as, in straining, not only do small particles -of fat pass through the cloth, but are also dissolved in -the extract. By quietly standing in a cool cellar these -particles of fat are separated and appear as white flakes -on the bottom and sides of the flask. At a higher temperature, -these flakes melt and appear as drops of oil -on the bottom of the flask. If filtering were omitted, -these particles of fat would be transferred to the extracts -and thus cause stains upon handkerchiefs, clothing, -etc. If the manufacturer has not a cool cellar at his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span> -disposal, the fatty particles are readily separated by -placing the flasks containing the extract upon ice, and -filtering immediately after separation is complete. The -fat then remains upon the filter.</p> - -<p>The pomade remaining upon the straining cloth is, -without being previously melted, returned to the apparatus, -and, after adding the same quantity of alcohol -(3½ quarts to every 2 lbs. of pomade), the mixture is again -worked as previously described. The straining off and -filtering of extract No. 2 is effected in precisely the same -manner as extract No. 1.</p> - -<p>The pomade upon the cloth is now brought for the -third time into the apparatus and, after adding 3½ quarts -of alcohol for every 2 lbs. of pomade, subjected to the -same treatment as for extracts Nos. 1 and 2. After -thoroughly wringing out the cloth containing the pomade, -the latter is brought into a clean tin vessel and entirely -melted upon the water-bath. The vessel containing the -melted pomade is placed in a cool cellar and, if after -complete cooling, a liquid appears upon the surface, it -is added to the flask containing extract No. 3. This -extract, No. 3, is used in place of alcohol when preparing, -the next time, extract No. 1 from the same kind -of pomade. In this manner, an extract No. 1 of still -greater strength is obtained, and by treating the pomade -three times with alcohol, it is more completely exhausted. -The exhausted pomade can, in conjunction with fresh -fat, be used for ordinary hair pomades.</p> - -<p>Although the extraction of pomades is somewhat -laborious and requires great care, it nevertheless pays -the perfumer.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<div class="caption">Fig. 26.</div> -<img src="images/fig_26.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>Beyer frères, of Paris, have essentially improved the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span> -extracting apparatus previously described, the improvement -being shown in Fig. 26. The cylinders <i>A</i> and <i>A<sub>1</sub></i> -are of copper tinned inside; the lids close air-tight; -above the cocks <i>f</i> and <i>f<sub>1</sub></i> a perforated piece of tin is -placed in the interior of the cylinders; upon this piece -of tin a disk of felt may be placed, and thus the extract -be drawn off clear. In order to reduce the pomade -to a finely divided state, and thus bring it in contact -with the alcohol, it is passed through a vermicelli press, -<i>h</i>, placed upon the cylinder <i>A<sub>1</sub></i>. The pomade passes, in -the form of fine vermicelli, through a sieve in the lower -portion of the press into the alcohol contained in the -cylinders. The press can be transferred from one extracting -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span>vessel to the other. The shafts <i>a</i> and <i>a<sub>1</sub></i> also -have several horizontal arms like those shown in Fig. -25. Through the contrivances <i>d</i> and <i>d<sub>1</sub></i>, sitting upon the -shaft <i>c</i>, the shafts <i>a</i> and <i>a<sub>1</sub></i>, receive a revolving as well -as an up-and-down motion, so that a complete mixture of -pomade and alcohol is effected. By this arrangement -the pomade completely yields its perfume to the alcohol -in one day, and independent of the quicker work, it has -the further advantage that the extracts are of better -quality in consequence of not remaining for so long a -time in contact with the fat.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Tinctures and Extracts.</span> In the following pages -receipts for the preparation of the principal tinctures and -extracts used in the preparation of <i>Extraits</i>, as well as -in other branches of perfumery, fumigating pastils and -powders, dentifrices, mouth-waters, and cosmetics, will -be given. The tinctures are prepared from the resins -and balsams previously mentioned, as well as from the -perfume-substances derived from the animal kingdom. -Besides these there are employed for the purpose several -spices, leaves, roots, and seeds—such as musk-seeds, -angelica root, orris root, patchouli leaves, musk-root -or sumbul-root, tonka beans, vanilla, vitivert root, etc.</p> - -<p>Most of these substances, if not already found in commerce -in the form of a powder, are, before extraction, -pulverized, or at least comminuted as much as possible. -For a better view the treatment of each substance is -given with the respective receipt. The infusions should -be stored in a moderately warm room, and thoroughly -shaken several times every day. When extraction is -finished the product is filtered through paper and is then -called <i>tincture</i> or <i>extract</i>.</p> - -<p>The substances to be used for tinctures should be fresh<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span> -and genuine, and the alcohol free from fusel oil, since -a perfect tincture can only be obtained under these conditions. -For the preparation of tinctures Beyer frères -have constructed very suitable apparatuses (Figs. 27 -and 28). By the vigorous and uninterrupted agitation -produced by means of such an apparatus extraction is -effected much more rapidly and more completely than -by treating the substances to be extracted in ordinary -bottles and by shaking with the hand.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<div class="caption">Fig. 27.</div> -<img src="images/fig_27.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>The apparatus (Fig. 27) is provided with two boxes -for the reception of bottles filled with the substances to -be extracted and alcohol. In the accompanying illustration -one box is charged with two glass bottles and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span> -the other with a copper flask. However, Beyer frères -also construct apparatuses which can, at one time, be -charged with 6, 8, or 10 glass bottles, so that 6, 8, or 10 -different tinctures can be prepared at one operation.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<div class="caption">Fig. 28.</div> -<img src="images/fig_28.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>The apparatus (Fig. 28) consists of a round table provided -with cavities covered with leather, in which rest -bottles of a special shape. The bottles fit exactly in the -cavities. The stoppers, with which the bottles are -closed, rest against a screw of large diameter placed in -the centre of the apparatus. Against this screw the -bottles are firmly pressed by means of clamps and -screws. The bottles being filled with the substances to -be extracted, the table is set in motion, moving alternately -from left to right and from right to left.</p> - -<p>It is advisable to have always a sufficient supply of -tinctures on hand, since their aroma improves by age.</p> - -<p>The receipts given in the following pages have been<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span> -practically tested and can be recommended as perfectly -reliable.</p> - -<p><i>Musk tincture.</i>—Tonkin musk 11 drachms, rose water -8 ozs., best quality of alcohol 2 quarts.</p> - -<p>Carefully empty the musk sac into a glass flask, add -the rose water and let the flask stand for about 10 days, -shaking frequently. Then add the alcohol and let the -whole stand for several weeks, shaking frequently. -Cut up the empty musk sacs into as small pieces as -possible, and, in another bottle, treat them in the same -manner as their contents; distilled water, may, however, -be used instead of rose water. The object of the -water is to soften the musk, which swells up, so that the -alcohol can better penetrate into the cellular tissue and -absorb the aroma.</p> - -<p>The extract from the empty musk sacs is used for -cheaper products, or mixed with the extract from the -contents of the sacs, according to whether a more or -less fine quality of tincture is to be obtained. A still -higher yield might, perhaps, be obtained by the use of a -machine for comminuting the musk, which grinds the -sac to atoms, whereby the cellular tissue is still more -completely disintegrated than by cutting up.</p> - -<p><i>Civet tincture.</i>—Civet 5½ drachms, best quality of -alcohol 3 pints.</p> - -<p>Civet in its natural state being, with difficulty, soluble -in alcohol, triturate it in a mortar to a pulverulent mass -together with some dry substance, for instance, whiting -or exhausted orris-root powder. The mixture is then -brought into a glass flask, the alcohol added, and the -whole frequently shaken.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Ambergris tincture.</i>—Ambergris 5½ drachms, alcohol -of the best quality 1 quart.</p> - -<p>Ambergris dissolving readily in alcohol, pulverizing -is not required, but if it is done, great care should be -exercised to prevent loss of this expensive substance. -Ambergris is not so much distinguished by its aroma as -by its indestructibility, which renders it especially suitable -for fixing odors.</p> - -<p><i>Castor tincture.</i>—Castor 3½ ozs., best quality of alcohol -3 pints.</p> - -<p>Comminute the castor as much as possible, bring it -into a glass flask and add the alcohol.</p> - -<p>Perfume-substances resembling musk having in the -last few years increased to an extraordinary degree, the -use of castor has been almost entirely abandoned on -account of its disagreeable odor. The tincture can only -be employed, when very old, for cheap perfumes.</p> - -<p><i>Benzoin tincture.</i>—Benzoin (Siam) 2 lbs., best quality -of alcohol 3 quarts.</p> - -<p>Convert the benzoin into a coarse powder, bring it -into a flask, add the alcohol and shake thoroughly. -Solution takes place in 10 to 12 days.</p> - -<p>Siam benzoin is the finest and most expensive and is -indispensable for <i lang="fr">Extraits d'Odeurs</i>. For cheaper products -of perfumery, Sumatra benzoin answers very well.</p> - -<p><i>Peru-balsam tincture.</i>—Peru balsam 8 ozs., best quality -of alcohol 5 quarts.</p> - -<p><i>Tolu-balsam tincture.</i>—Tolu balsam 3 lbs., best quality -of alcohol 5 quarts.</p> - -<p>Bring the alcohol into a bottle. Tolu balsam cannot -be reduced to a powder, hence it is necessary to keep it -right cool, whereby it becomes brittle so that it can be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span> -cut up with a sharp instrument and a hammer. The -pieces detached are rapidly brought into the alcohol, solution -taking place in about 14 days. If the alcohol -were added to the tolu balsam, the latter would ball -together, rendering solution very difficult. Frequent -vigorous shaking is necessary.</p> - -<p><i>Olibanum tincture.</i>—Olibanum 2 lbs., best quality of -alcohol 4 quarts.</p> - -<p>Reduce the olibanum to as fine a powder as possible, -bring it into a flask, add the alcohol and shake frequently.</p> - -<p><i>Opopanax tincture.</i>—Opopanax 2 lbs., best quality of -alcohol 4 quarts.</p> - -<p>Reduce the opopanax to a coarse powder, bring it into -a bottle, add the alcohol and shake frequently.</p> - -<p><i>Storax tincture.</i>—<i>Storax liquidus</i> 4 lbs., alcohol of best -quality 5 quarts.</p> - -<p>Bring the alcohol first into the flask. Then place the -pot containing the storax in warm water until it becomes -more liquid, and then pour it in very thin threads into -the flask. Shake frequently.</p> - -<p><i>Myrrh tincture.</i>—Myrrh 1 lb., best quality of alcohol -2 quarts.</p> - -<p><i>Musk-seed or abelmosk tincture.</i>—Abelmosk grains 21 -ozs., best quality of alcohol 2½ quarts.</p> - -<p>Reduce the grains to a fine powder, bring the powder -into a bottle, and add the alcohol. This <i>tincture abelmoschi</i> -fulfils its object as a fixing agent only when -about one year old, when it possesses a very fine aroma.</p> - -<p>Abelmosk grains are the seeds of a plant (<i>Abelmoschus -moschatus Mönch</i>; <i>Hebiscus abelmoschus, L.</i>) indigenous -to Central Africa, Arabia, and India. They are reddish<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span>gray, -kidney-shaped, slightly corrugated on the surface, -and of an agreeable musk-like odor. The substance producing -the musk odor lies in the seed coat. The odor -becomes very pronounced on rubbing the seeds between -the hands.</p> - -<p><i>Angelica root tincture.</i>—Angelica root 16 ozs., best -quality of alcohol 2 quarts.</p> - -<p>Bruise or rasp the root, bring it into a bottle, add the -alcohol, and shake frequently.</p> - -<p><i>Orris-root tincture.</i>—Pulverized orris root of best -quality 2 lbs., alcohol of best quality 3 quarts.</p> - -<p>Pulverize the root, bring it into a glass flask, and add -the alcohol. The powder having a great tendency to -ball together, it is necessary to shake five or six times -daily, and continue to do so for 14 days. In straining -off the tincture, it is advisable to bring the entire contents -of the flask upon a close linen cloth stretched over -a tin vessel. The orris-root powder remaining upon the -cloth after the tincture has run off is returned to the -flask, and fresh alcohol added in order to obtain a -second extract.</p> - -<p><i>Musk-root</i> or <i>sumbul-root tincture</i>.—Sumbul root 1 lb., -best quality of alcohol 2½ quarts.</p> - -<p>Proceed in the same manner as given under angelica-root -tincture.</p> - -<p><i>Tonka-bean tincture.</i>—Tonka beans 8 ozs., alcohol of -best quality 3 pints.</p> - -<p>The tonka bean is of great importance for perfumery. -The tincture prepared from it has an agreeable, penetrating -odor, and in mixing it with other odors, great -care has to be exercised, so that the tonka odor is not -too prominent. The tincture is prepared as follows:<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span> -Bring the beans, without comminuting them or removing -the white coating adhering to them, into a flask, -add the alcohol, and let the whole macerate, with frequent -shaking, for about 14 days. Then filter off the -fluid. The tincture prepared in this manner only contains -the cumarin found as a white coating upon the -beans, and is used only for the finest products. Now -take the beans from the flask, comminute them, return -them to the flask, and add 1¼ quarts of alcohol. This -extract gives an excellent tincture suitable for products -of medium quality.</p> - -<p><i>Cumarin tincture.</i>—Cumarin 5½ drachms, best quality -of alcohol 1 quart.</p> - -<p><i>Heliotropin tincture.</i>—The white crystals of heliotropin -yield with alcohol a solution clear as water, which is much -used in the preparation of <i lang="fr">Extrait héliotrope</i>.</p> - -<p><i>Vanilla tincture.</i>—Best quality of Bourbon vanilla -5¼ ozs., alcohol of best quality 2 quarts.</p> - -<p>To prepare the tincture proceed as follows: Cut the -so-called vanilla pods lengthwise and then into as small -pieces as possible, and bring the latter together with the -alcohol into a flask. Some perfumers triturate the commimuted -vanilla with sugar in a porcelain mortar, -whereby the small-seed bodies contained in the pod -are ground up, and a better yield is claimed to be -obtained. Though by this trituration a tincture of a -darker color may be obtained, the color alone is by no -means a proof of the strength of the tincture. Care -must be had to bring the white, downy crystals of -vanillin found upon the vanilla pods into the flask.</p> - -<p><i>Vanillin tincture.</i>—Vanillin 1½ drachms, alcohol 2 -quarts.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Vitivert tincture.</i>—Vitivert rhizome 8 ozs., best quality -of alcohol 2 quarts.</p> - -<p>Reduce the rhizome to as fine a powder as possible, -bring the latter into a flask, add the alcohol and shake -frequently.</p> - -<p><i>Juniper-berry tincture.</i>—Juniper berries 2 lbs., best -quality of alcohol 5 pints.</p> - -<p>The juniper berries (the fruits of <i>Juniperus communis, -L.</i>) are comminuted, and the alcohol is poured over -them.</p> - -<p><i>Patchouli extract.</i><a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a>—Patchouli leaves 1 lb., best quality -of alcohol 5 pints.</p> - -<p>Bring the pulverized leaves into a bottle and add the -alcohol. The tincture from patchouli leaves being dark-green -is not suitable for the preparation of <i>Extraits</i>, -since white substances are colored grass-green by it; -only traces of the tincture may be used for the purpose -of giving the <i>Extrait patchouli</i> a greenish shade of color. -The tincture may, however, be utilized for milled -patchouli soaps.</p> - -<p>From many of the above-mentioned perfume-substances, -which serve for the preparation of tinctures and -are not entirely soluble in alcohol, but leave a residue -after extraction, a second infusion may be made. Musk, -castor, and the resins dissolve completely, there remaining -behind only the impurities and any mineral constituents -present which possess no aroma. But all -residues from woods, fruits, etc., are suitable for a second -extraction, most of the tinctures thus obtained being -quite aromatic, and, as will be seen later on in giving<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span> -receipts, can be very advantageously utilized. For the -second extraction less alcohol has to be taken than for -the first.</p> - -<p>Since many perfumers consider it of greater advantage -and more suitable to first dissolve the volatile oils used -for the <i lang="fr">Extraits d'Odeurs</i>, and to prepare a tincture in -this manner, several receipts for the purpose are given -below. In the receipts for perfumery given in the next -following sections, the volatile oils are specified as such, -and not as tinctures, because the <i lang="fr">Extraits d'Odeurs</i> -containing evidently much non-saturated alcohol, the -volatile oils will in time completely dissolve in them. -An exception to this rule might be ylang-ylang oil -and perhaps orris-root oil. Ylang-ylang oil is soluble -with difficulty, even in very strong alcohol, and if -directly used for the <i>Extrait</i>, the latter remains turbid -for weeks, and frequently, especially in winter, does not -become clear, notwithstanding repeated filtering. However, -by preparing in good time an ylang-ylang tincture -this evil is avoided.</p> - -<p><i>Almond-oil (bitter) tincture.</i>—Bitter almond oil 2¾ -drachms, alcohol<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> 1 quart.</p> - -<p><i>Balm-oil tincture.</i>—Balm oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 -quart.</p> - -<p><i>Basil-oil tincture.</i>—Basil oil 14 drachms, alcohol 1 -quart.</p> - -<p><i>Bergamot-oil tincture.</i>—Bergamot oil 3½ ozs., alcohol -4 quarts.</p> - -<p><i>Canango-oil tincture.</i>—Canango oil (Java), 1¾ ozs., -alcohol 1 quart.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Cassia-oil tincture.</i>—Cassia oil 1¾ ozs., alcohol 1 -quart.</p> - -<p><i>Cedar-oil tincture.</i>—Cedar oil 1 oz., alcohol 1 quart.</p> - -<p><i>Cinnamon-oil tincture.</i>—Ceylon cinnamon oil 5½ -drachms, alcohol 1 quart.</p> - -<p><i>Citronella-oil tincture.</i>—Citronella oil 1 oz., alcohol 1 -quart.</p> - -<p><i>Clove-oil tincture.</i>—Oil of cloves 11 drachms, alcohol -1 quart.</p> - -<p><i>Eucalyptus-oil tincture.</i>—Eucalyptus oil 1 oz., alcohol -1½ quarts.</p> - -<p><i>Geranium-oil tincture.</i>—Palma rosa oil 14 drachms, -alcohol 1 quart.</p> - -<p><i>Lavender-oil tincture.</i>—Lavender oil 1¾ ozs., alcohol -1 quart.</p> - -<p><i>Lemon-grass-oil tincture.</i>—Lemon-grass oil 1 oz., alcohol -1 quart.</p> - -<p><i>Lemon-oil tincture.</i>—Oil of lemons 1¾ ozs., alcohol 1 -quart.</p> - -<p><i>Licari-oil tincture.</i>—Licari oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 -quart.</p> - -<p><i>Myrrh-oil tincture.</i>—Myrrh oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 -quart.</p> - -<p><i>Neroli-oil tincture.</i>—Neroli oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 -quart.</p> - -<p><i>Opopanax-oil tincture.</i>—Opopanax oil 5½ drachms, -alcohol 1 quart.</p> - -<p><i>Orris-root-oil tincture.</i>—Orris-root oil 5½ drachms, -alcohol 1 quart.</p> - -<p><i>Patchouli-oil tincture.</i>—Patchouli oil 5½ drachms, -alcohol 1 quart.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Petit-grain-oil tincture.</i>—Petit-grain oil 11 drachms, -alcohol 1 quart.</p> - -<p><i>Pine-leaf-oil tincture.</i>—Pine-leaf oil<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> 14 drachms, -alcohol 1 quart.</p> - -<p><i>Portugal-oil tincture.</i>—Portugal oil 1¾ ozs., alcohol 1 -quart.</p> - -<p><i>Sandal-wood-oil tincture.</i>—Sandal-wood<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> oil 5½ -drachms, alcohol 1 quart.</p> - -<p><i>Verbena-oil tincture.</i>—Verbena oil 11 drachms, alcohol -1 quart.</p> - -<p><i>Vitivert-oil tincture.</i>—Vitivert oil 2¾ drachms, alcohol -1 quart.</p> - -<p><i>Wintergreen-oil tincture.</i>—Wintergreen oil 5½ drachms, -alcohol 1 quart.</p> - -<p><i>Ylang-ylang-oil tincture.</i>—Ylang-ylang oil 11 drachms, -alcohol 3 quarts.</p> - -<p><i>Rose-oil tincture.</i>—Rose oil (Turkish)<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> 1¾ ozs., alcohol -6½ quarts.</p> - -<p>Rose oil, if directly added to the alcohol, dissolves with -difficulty and incompletely. By the following method -the object is, however, readily accomplished:—</p> - -<p>Bring about 5½ ozs. of pulverized sugar into a capacious -porcelain mortar, add the rose oil and mix intimately -with the pestle. Then pour the thickly-fluid -mass through a glass funnel into a glass flask and rinse -the mortar with alcohol until the prescribed 6½ quarts -of the latter have been brought into the flask. Fre<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span>quent -shaking accelerates the complete solution of the -rose oil.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Extraits aux Fleurs.</span> We now proceed to give -receipts for <i lang="fr">Extraits d'Odeurs</i>, and consider first the flower -odors, <i lang="fr">Extraits aux fleurs</i>. <i>By extracts are thereby understood -the odors extracted from French flower pomades.</i> -Any coloring matter required is mentioned under the respective -receipts.</p> - -<p>Great care has to be exercised in the preparation of -<i>Extraits</i> and <i>Bouquets</i>, and special attention must be -paid that they actually represent the odor whose name -they bear.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait acacia.</i>—Extract No. 1 from <i>Pomm. Acacia</i> -750 drachms, bergamot oil 1, lavender oil 1, eucalyptus -oil ½, orris-root tincture 125, musk-root tincture 12½, -ambergris tincture 2½, civet tincture 1, musk tincture 1.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait cassie.</i>—Extracts No. 1 from <i>Pomm. Cassie</i> -500 drachms, from <i>Pomm. Tubereuse</i> 125, bergamot oil -5, orris-root tincture 75, tinctures of vitivert and angelica -each 12½, tinctures of musk and ambergris each 2½.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait héliotrope</i> (<i>Receipt No. 1</i>).—Extracts No. 1 -from <i>Pomm. Héliotrope</i> 750 drachms, and from <i>Pomm. -Rose</i> 75, bergamot oil 2½, rose-geranium oil 1½, musk -tincture 2½, civet tincture 1½, heliotropin tincture 50.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait héliotrope</i> (<i>Receipt No. 2</i>).—Extracts No. 1 -from <i>Pomm. Héliotrope</i> 500 drachms, and from <i>Pomm. -Rose</i> and <i>Pomm. Orange</i> 50 each, bergamot oil 5, clove -oil 2½, vanilla tincture 50, orris-root tincture 100, musk-root -tincture 25, tinctures of musk and civet 5 each, -benzoin tincture 10, Peru-balsam tincture 5.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait jacinthe.</i>—Extracts No. 1 from <i>Pomm. Jacinthe</i> -750 drachms, and from <i>Pomm. Acacia</i> 100; bergamot<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span> -oil 5, clove oil 1, storax tincture 2½, musk-root tincture -12½, tinctures of musk and ambergris 1½ each.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait jasmin.</i>—Extracts No. 1 from <i>Pomm. Jasmin</i> -500 drachms, and from <i>Pomm. Orange</i> 100; civet tincture -1½, ambergris tincture 1, sandal-wood oil 3 drops.</p> - -<p><i>Essence of the odor of linden blossoms.</i>—Extracts No. -1 from <i>Pomm. Acacia</i> 250 drachms, from <i>Pomm. Jasmin</i> -50, and from <i>Pomm. Jonquille</i> 100; pure camomile oil -1½, oil of lemons 2½, ambergris tincture 5, civet tincture 3.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait jonquille.</i>—Extract No. 1 from <i>Pomm. Jonquille</i> -750 drachms, lavender oil ½, bergamot oil 2½, -Ceylon cinnamon oil ½, storax tincture 1½, tinctures of -abelmosk and angelica each 5, musk tincture 1½, civet -tincture 1.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait magnolia.</i>—Extracts No. 1 from <i>Pomm. Tubereuse</i> -150 drachms, from <i>Pomm. Acacia</i> 250, and from -<i>Pomm. Rose</i> 125, balm oil 2½, tinctures of vanilla and -cumarin each 12½, civet tincture 1½, musk tincture 2½.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait muguet</i> (<i>lily of the valley</i>).—Extracts No. 1 -from <i>Pomm. Jonquille</i> 750 drachms, from <i>Pomm. Jasmin</i> -100, from <i>Pomm. Tubereuse</i> 200, and from <i>Pomm. -Acacia</i> and <i>Pomm. Orange</i> each 100; bergamot oil 7½ -drachms, oil of lemons 2½, angelica oil 3 drops, storax -tincture 5 drachms, musk tincture 2½, vanilla tincture 5, -ambergris tincture 2, ylang-ylang tincture 100, wintergreen -tincture 25, bitter-almond-oil tincture 2½.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait fleurs de Mai</i> (<i>May flowers</i>).—Extract No. 1 -from <i>Pomm. Réséda</i>, <i>Pomm. Rose</i> and <i>Pomm. Héliotrope</i>, -each 75 drachms; from <i>Pomm. Jasmin</i> 125, and -from <i>Pomm. Orange</i> 50; bergamot oil 7½, Ceylon cinnamon -oil 2½, orris-root tincture 50, tinctures of ambergris -and musk, each 15, ylang-ylang tincture 25.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Extrait ixora.</i>—Extracts No. 1 from <i>Pomm. Tubereuse</i> -125 drachms, from <i>Pomm. Cassie</i> and <i>Pomm. Réséda</i>, -each 175; bergamot oil 5, orris-root tincture 125, musk -tincture 10, benzoin tincture 25.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait Orange.</i>—Extracts No. 1 from <i>Pomm. Orange</i> -500 drachms, from <i>Pomm. Acacia</i> 100; Portugal oil 7½, -tinctures of musk and ambergris, each 1.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait white rose.</i>—Rose-oil tincture from Turkish -rose oil 500 drachms, bergamot oil 1¼, sandal-wood oil 3 -drops, nutmeg oil 1 drop, musk tincture ¾ drachm, civet -tincture ½ drachm.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait rose v. d. centifolie.</i>—Extract No. 1 from -<i>Pomm. Rose</i> 500 drachms, rose-oil tincture from Turkish -rose oil 500, rose-geranium oil 10, musk tincture, 2½, -sandal-wood oil, 7 drops.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait violette.</i>—Extracts No. 1 from <i>Pomm. Violette</i> -500 drachms, and from <i>Pomm. Cassie</i> 250; orris-root -tincture 125, musk tincture 1½, sandal-wood oil 3 drops.</p> - -<p>To give the <i>extrait violette</i> an apparently greater concentration, -it is compounded with a green coloring -tincture. The latter may be prepared by bringing comminuted -dried spinach leaves into a bottle and pouring -96 per cent. alcohol over them. The result is a handsome -green coloring matter; but care must be taken not -to add too much of it to the <i>extrait</i>, as otherwise it -might stain the handkerchief, etc.<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a></p> - -<p><i>Extrait de violette de Parme.</i>—Extract No. 1 from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span> -<i>Pomm. Violette</i> 750 drachms, orris-root oil and bergamot -oil each 2½, tinctures of musk, ambergris, and bitter-almond -oil each 1½.</p> - -<p>This <i>extrait</i> may also be colored slightly green.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait tubereuse.</i>—Extract No. 1 from <i>Pomm. Tubereuse</i> -500 drachms, bergamot oil 2½, Ceylon cinnamon oil -½, musk tincture 1½, storax tincture 2½.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait réséda.</i>—Extracts No. 1 from <i>Pomm. Réséda</i> -750 drachms, and from <i>Pomm. Violette</i> 100; bergamot -oil 7½, rose-geranium oil 2½, clove oil 1½, musk tincture -2, ambergris tincture 1.</p> - -<p>A trace of the above-mentioned green coloring substance -may be added.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait ylang-ylang.</i>—Extracts No. 1 from <i>Pomm. -Jasmin</i>, <i>Pomm. Jonquille</i>, <i>Pomm. Orange</i>, and <i>Pomm. -Acacia</i>, each 250 drachms, bergamot oil 7½, angelica -oil 2½, ylang-ylang tincture 500, abelmosk tincture 25, -tonka-bean extract 7½, musk tincture 4, ambergris tincture -2½.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Compound Odors</span> (<span class="smcap">Bouquets</span>). <i>Extrait Edelweiss.</i>—Extracts -No. 1 from <i>Pomm. Jasmin</i> and <i>Pomm. Tubereuse</i> -250 drachms each, and from <i>Pomm. Orange</i>, <i>Pomm. -Héliotrope</i>, and <i>Pomm. Jacinthe</i> 125 each, bergamot oil -10, basil oil 5, tinctures of musk and ambergris each 5, -bitter-almond-oil tincture 2½, tinctures of angelica and -vitivert each 25.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait ess-bouquet.</i>—Extracts No. 1 from <i>Pomm. -Acacia</i> and <i>Pomm. Cassie</i> each 100 drachms, from -<i>Pomm. Jasmin</i> 325, from <i>Pomm. Rose</i> 75, and from -<i>Pomm. Orange</i> 250; bergamot oil 40, Ceylon cinnamon -oil and clove oil each 5, French rose-geranium -oil 10, sandal-wood oil 2½, licari oil 8, rose-oil tincture<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span> -from Turkish rose oil 75, orris-root tincture 50, tinctures -of ambergris and civet each 10, musk tincture 15, -musk-root tincture 37½, benzoin tincture 15.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait spring flower.</i>—Extracts No. 1 from <i>Pomm. -Jasmin</i>, <i>Pomm. Cassie</i>, <i>Pomm. Orange</i>, <i>Pomm. Jonquille</i>, -<i>Pomm. Tubereuse</i>, and <i>Pomm. Violette</i> each 100 drachms, -from <i>Pomm. Rose</i> 50, from <i>Pomm. Réséda</i> 100, and from -<i>Pomm. Héliotrope</i> and <i>Pomm. Acacia</i> each 50; neroli oil -2½, bergamot oil 5, vitivert oil ½, rose-oil tincture from -Turkish rose oil 50, musk-root tincture 12½, musk tincture -5, civet tincture 2½, orris-root tincture 25.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait bouquet Eugenie.</i>—Extracts No. 1 from <i>Pomm. -Cassie</i> 100 drachms, from <i>Pomm. Tubereuse</i> 75, from -<i>Pomm. Jasmin</i> 125; bergamot oil 10, licari oil 2½, rose-oil -tincture from Turkish rose oil 75, musk-root tincture -10, cumarin tincture 7½, orris-root tincture 75, -tinctures of angelica and musk each 10, ambergris tincture -5.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait excelsior.</i>—Extracts No. 1 from <i>Pomm. Jasmin</i> -200 drachms and from <i>Pomm. Orange</i> and <i>Pomm. Héliotrope</i> -each 100; oils of lemon and rose geranium each 4, -rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 60, orris-root -tincture 50, musk tincture 5, abelmosk tincture 10, -opopanax tincture 5, storax tincture 1.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait Frangipani.</i>—Extracts No. 1 from <i>Pomm. -Cassie</i> 150 drachms, and from <i>Pomm. Jasmin</i> 50; -French rose geranium oil 5, cassia oil 2, licari oil 3, -sandal-wood oil 1, orris-root tincture 100, angelica tincture -8, musk tincture 5, storax tincture 5.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait jockey club.</i>—Extracts No. 1 from <i>Pomm. -Orange</i> 150 drachms, from <i>Pomm. Rose</i> 35, from <i>Pomm. -Jasmin</i> 150, and from <i>Pomm. Jonquille</i> and <i>Pomm. Hélio<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span>trope</i> -each 30; bergamot oil 8, Ceylon cinnamon oil 2, -Portugal oil 6, cedar oil 1, clove oil 2, tincture of rose -oil from Turkish rose oil and of orris root each 40, musk-root -tincture 8, musk tincture 10, ambergris tincture 3, -vanilla tincture 5.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait opopanax.</i>—Extracts No. 1 from <i>Pomm. -Orange</i> 250 drachms, and from <i>Pomm. Héliotrope</i> 125; -opopanax oil 10, Ceylon cinnamon oil 5, rose-oil tincture -from Turkish rose oil 125, opopanax tincture 25, orris-root -tincture 62½, musk tincture 4, ambergris tincture 5.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait patchouly.</i>—Extract No. 1 from <i>Pomm. Acacia</i> -100 drachms, patchouli oil 4, clove oil and Portugal oil, -each 2, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 40, orris-root -tincture 30, musk-root tincture 10, vitivert tincture -10, patchouli tincture 1.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait millefleurs.</i>—Extracts No. 1 from <i>Pomm. Jasmin</i> -250 drachms, from <i>Pomm. Jonquille</i> 100, <i>Pomm. -Rose</i> 75, <i>Pomm. Acacia</i> 100, <i>Pomm. Orange</i> and <i>Pomm. -Tubereuse</i> each 150, and <i>Pomm. Cassie</i> 100; bergamot -oil 20, rose geranium oil and Portugal oil each 15, oils -of angelica and sandal wood, each 5, rose-oil tincture -from Turkish rose oil 150, orris-root tincture 250, -vanilla tincture 15, musk-root tincture 35, tolu-balsam -tincture 10, tinctures of storax and patchouli each 5, -musk tincture 30, civet tincture 25.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait bouquet Victoria.</i>—Extracts No. 1 from <i>Pomm. -Rose</i> 200 drachms, <i>Pomm. Orange</i> and <i>Pomm. Tubereuse</i>, -each 100, <i>Pomm. Jasmin</i> 300, and <i>Pomm. Héliotrope</i> 200; -lemon oil 20, verbena oil 5, French rose geranium oil 10, -musk tincture 20, tinctures of civet and ambergris each 5, -musk-root tincture 40, tolu-balsam tincture 20, orris-root -tincture 150.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Extrait kiss-me-quick.</i>—Extracts No. 1 from <i>Pomm. -Acacia</i> and <i>Pomm. Jonquille</i> each 100 drachms, and -<i>Pomm. Jasmin</i> 40; bergamot oil 4, oil of lemons 2, -rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 30, tinctures of -vitivert and angelica 8, ambergris tincture 4, civet tincture -2, musk tincture 1.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait mogadore.</i>—Extracts No. 1 from <i>Pomm. Jasmin</i> -100 drachms, from <i>Pomm. Jonquille</i> and <i>Pomm. -Acacia</i>, each 50, from <i>Pomm. Orange</i> 40; bergamot -oil 6, oil of lavender 1, French rose geranium oil 2, -tinctures of musk, ambergris, tolu balsam, and cumarin, -each 10, tincture of orris root 50.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait bouquet Prince Albert.</i>—Extracts No. 1 from -<i>Pomm. Jasmin</i> 150 drachms, from <i>Pomm. Tubereuse</i>, -<i>Pomm. Orange</i>, and <i>Pomm. Cassie</i> each 50, <i>Pomm. Rose</i> -25, neroli oil 2, bergamot oil 4, musk tincture 2, tonka -bean extract 4, angelica tincture 10, ambergris tincture 2.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait musc.</i>—Extracts No. 1 from <i>Pomm. Orange</i>, -<i>Pomm. Héliotrope</i>, and <i>Pomm. Cassie</i> each 50 drachms; -clove oil 4, cassia oil 2, tinctures of abelmosk and musk-root -each 10, opopanax tincture 4, musk tincture 30, -civet tincture 5, orris-root tincture 50.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait new-mown hay.</i>—Extracts No. 1 from <i>Pomm. -Réséda</i> 200 drachms, <i>Pomm. Rose</i> 40, <i>Pomm. Cassie</i> 80, -<i>Pomm. Acacia</i> 40; French rose geranium oil 4, bergamot -oil 10, myrrh oil 5, tonka-bean extract 30, vitivert -tincture 10, musk-root tincture 16, benzoin tincture 4.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait chypre.</i>—Extracts No. 1 from <i>Pomm. Orange</i> -60 drachms, <i>Pomm. Jasmin</i> 40, <i>Pomm. Cassie</i> 110, <i>Pomm. -Héliotrope</i> 40; French rose geranium oil 6, bergamot -oil 2, cedar oil 3/5, benzoin tincture 4, orris-root tincture<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span> -30, musk tincture 5, civet tincture 4, abelmosk tincture -10.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait maréchal.</i>—Extracts No. 1 from <i>Pomm. Héliotrope</i> -and <i>Pomm. Orange</i> each 200 drachms, from -<i>Pomm. Jasmin</i> 75; oils of sandal wood and cloves each -5, Portugal oil 10, cedar oil 1, rose-oil tincture from -Turkish rose oil 100, orris-root tincture 75, vitivert tincture -25, civet tincture 10, musk tincture 20, bitter almond -oil tincture 1½.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait mousseline.</i>—Extracts No. 1 from <i>Pomm. Jasmin</i> -250 drachms, <i>Pomm. Rose</i> 150, and <i>Pomm. Jonquille</i>, -<i>Pomm. Héliotrope</i>, and <i>Pomm. Cassie</i>, each 125; French -rose geranium oil 12½, oil of cloves 10, cassia oil 5, wintergreen -oil 1, orris-root tincture 125, rose-oil tincture -from Turkish rose oil 100, musk tincture 12½, civet -tincture 10, vitivert tincture 37½, abelmosk tincture 25.</p> - -<p>In compiling the abundant choice of receipts for -<i lang="fr">Extraits d'Odeurs</i> given above, the golden mean has -been chosen in regard to the quality of these odors, they, -when carefully prepared, giving, at a moderate cost of -manufacture, a product which in most cases will satisfy -the demands of lovers of perfumes. To enable the perfumer, -however, to satisfy the highest demands attention -is called to, and a brief explanation given of, the so-called -"<i lang="fr">Extraits triple concentrés</i>."</p> - -<p>For the preparation of these stronger products, the -employment of a stronger foundation, <i>i. e.</i>, of more -highly saturated extracts from French flower pomades, -is required. For this purpose the French perfumers prepare, -under No. 30, flower pomades of all odors which -are exclusively used for concentrated <i>Extraits</i>. They<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span> -are, of course, correspondingly higher in price than -those prepared from No. 18, which have previously been -treated of.</p> - -<p>The method of preparing the extracts from these -pomades, No. 30, is the same as previously described, -the proportion of pomade to alcohol being also the same; -hence for 2 lbs. of pomade 1¾ quarts of alcohol are to -be used.</p> - -<p>The proportions of volatile oils and tinctures given in -the above receipts are also to be retained. The stronger -extracts from the flower pomades are the only measure -in the preparation of the <i lang="fr">Extraits triple concentrés</i>, and -such must be the case since the object of the concentration -of the <i>Extraits</i> is thus completely attained by the -greater prominence of the flower odors from the <i lang="fr">Extraits -d'Odeurs</i>.</p> - -<p>For the preparation of <i lang="fr">Extraits d'Odeurs</i>, the French -perfumers also manufacture a concentrated flower extract -of the various odors. This extract is simply dissolved -in alcohol, the solution being effected immediately, so that -this method of preparing <i lang="fr">Extraits d'Odeurs</i> is the simplest -imaginable. However, the price of such extract (1000 -francs = $200 and more per kilogramme = 2.2 lb.) is a -considerable item, so that most perfumers will prefer the -extracts from the flower pomades as previously described.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Extraits d'Odeurs, Quality II.</span>—In addition to -the <i>fine</i> extracts given in the preceding section, a small -selection of quite cheap receipts for quality II of such -extracts is here given, the extracts No. 2 offering sufficient -material for their preparation. In the introduction -to the previous section, attention has been called to the -fact that quite useful tinctures may be prepared from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span> -substances leaving behind solid residues, there being also -on hand the second extract from the flower pomades.</p> - -<p>Besides the alcohol, such tinctures and extracts cost -only the small trouble of treatment. For this second -quality only half the quantity of volatile oils prescribed -for the best quality is used. Such tinctures, from which -a second extract cannot be had, may, for this purpose, be -diluted one-half with alcohol, which need not be of the -best quality, thus preparing a second quality of them.</p> - -<p>The process to be followed is illustrated by a selection -from the first <i>Extrait</i> receipts which have been converted -into <i>Extraits</i> of quality II.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait violette II.</i>—Extracts No. 2 from <i>Pomm. Violette</i> -500 drachms, from <i>Pomm. Cassie</i> 250; bergamot -oil 2½, musk tincture No. 2, 1½, ambergris tincture No. -2, ¾, diluted with alcohol ¾, bitter almond oil tincture -No. 2, 1, orris-root tincture No. 2, 125.</p> - -<p>Add a small quantity of green coloring substance.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait rose II.</i>—Extract No. 2 from <i>Pomm. Rose</i> 500 -drachms, African rose geranium oil 4, sandal-wood oil -3 drops, musk tincture No. 2, 2½ drachms, rose-oil tincture -from Turkish rose oil 250 drachms diluted with an -equal quantity of alcohol, which may be called rose -tincture No. 2.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait réséda II.</i>—Extracts No. 2 from <i>Pomm. -Réséda</i> 750 drachms and from <i>Pomm. Violette</i> 100, bergamot -oil 3½, African rose-geranium oil 1, clove oil 1, -musk tincture No. 2, 2, ambergris tincture ½ diluted -with alcohol ½.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait ylang-ylang II.</i>—Extracts No. 2 from -<i>Pomm. Jasmin</i>, <i>Pomm. Jonquille</i>, <i>Pomm. Orange</i>, and -<i>Pomm. Acacia</i> each 250 drachms; bergamot oil 3½,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span> -angelica oil 1¼, ylang-ylang tincture 250 diluted with -the equal quantity of alcohol, abelmosk No. 2, 25, tonka-bean -extract No. 2, 7½, musk tincture No. 2, 4, ambergris -tincture 1¼ diluted with the same quantity of -alcohol.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait new-mown hay II.</i>—Extracts No. 2 from -<i>Pomm. Réséda</i> 500 drachms, from <i>Pomm. Rose</i> 100, -from <i>Pomm. Cassie</i> 200 and <i>Pomm. Acacia</i> 100; palma -rosa oil 5, bergamot oil 12½, myrrh oil 6, tonka-bean -extract No. 2, 75, vitivert tincture No. 2, 25, musk-root -tincture No. 2, 40, benzoin tincture 5 diluted with -the same quantity of alcohol.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait chypre II.</i>—Extracts No. 2, from <i>Pomm. -Orange</i> 150 drachms, from <i>Pomm. Jasmin</i> 100, <i>Pomm. -Cassie</i> 275, and <i>Pomm. Héliotrope</i> 100; palma rosa oil -7½, bergamot oil 2½, cedar oil ¾, orris-root tincture No. -2, 75, musk tincture No. 2, 12½, abelmosk tincture No. -2, 25, civet tincture 5 diluted with alcohol 5, benzoin -tincture 5 diluted with alcohol 5.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait ess. bouquet II.</i>—Extracts No. 2 from <i>Pomm. -Acacia</i> and <i>Pomm. Cassie</i> each 100, from <i>Pomm. Jasmin</i> -375, <i>Pomm. Rose</i> 75, <i>Pomm. Orange</i> 250; bergamot oil -20, Ceylon cinnamon oil and clove oil each 2½, African -rose geranium oil 5, sandal-wood oil 1¾, licari oil 2, -rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 37½ diluted with -an equal quantity of alcohol, orris-root tincture No. 2, -50, ambergris tincture 5 diluted with an equal quantity -of alcohol, civet tincture 5 diluted with an equal quantity -of alcohol, musk tincture No. 2, 15, musk-root -tincture No. 2, 37½, benzoin tincture 7½ diluted with an -equal quantity of alcohol.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Extrait muguet II.</i>—Extracts No. 2 from <i>Pomm. Jonquille</i> -750 drachms, <i>Pomm. Jasmin</i> 100, <i>Pomm. Tubereuse</i> -200 and <i>Pomm. Acacia</i> and <i>Pomm. Orange</i> each 100; -bergamot oil 3½, oil of lemons 1¼, angelica oil 2 drops, -storax tincture 2½ drachms diluted with an equal quantity -of alcohol, musk tincture No. 2, 2½, vanilla tincture -5, ambergris tincture 1, diluted with an equal -quantity of alcohol, ylang-ylang tincture 50 diluted with -alcohol 50, wintergreen tincture 12½ diluted with alcohol -12½, bitter-almond oil 1¼ diluted with alcohol 1¼.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait bouquet Victoria II.</i>—Extracts No. 2 from -<i>Pomm. Rose</i> 100 drachms, <i>Pomm. Orange</i> and <i>Pomm. -Tubereuse</i> each 50; <i>Pomm. Jasmin</i> 150, <i>Pomm. Héliotrope</i> -100; lemon oil 5, verbena oil 1½, African rose -geranium oil 2½, musk tincture No. 2, 10, musk-root tincture -No. 2, 20, orris-root tincture No. 2, 75, civet tincture -1¼ diluted with alcohol 1¼, ambergris tincture 1¼ diluted -with alcohol 1¼, tolu-balsam tincture 5 diluted with alcohol -5.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait spring flower II.</i>—Extracts No. 2 from <i>Pomm. -Jasmin</i>, <i>Pomm. Cassie</i>, <i>Pomm. Orange</i>, <i>Pomm. Jonquille</i>, -<i>Pomm. Tubereuse</i> and <i>Pomm. Violette</i>, each 100 drachms, -from <i>Pomm. Rose</i> 50, <i>Pomm. Réséda</i> 100, and <i>Pomm. -Héliotrope</i> and <i>Acacia</i>, each 50; neroli oil 1¼, bergamot -oil 2½, vitivert oil 13 drops, rose-oil tincture from Turkish -rose oil 25 drachms, diluted with alcohol 25, musk-root -tincture No. 2, 12½, musk tincture No. 2, 12½, orris-root -tincture No. 2, 25, civet tincture 1¼ diluted with -alcohol 1¼.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait ixora II.</i>—Extracts No. 2 from <i>Pomm. Tubereuse</i> -125 drachms, from <i>Pomm. Cassie</i> and <i>Pomm. Réséda</i> -each 175; bergamot oil 2½, orris-root tincture No. 2, 125,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span> -musk tincture No. 2, 10, benzoin tincture 12½ diluted -with alcohol 12½.</p> - -<p><i>Extrait Frangipani II.</i>—Extracts No. 2 from <i>Pomm. -Cassie</i> 375 drachms, and <i>Pomm. Jasmin</i> 125; African -rose geranium oil 12, cassia oil 2½, licari oil 3½, sandal-wood -oil 1¼, orris-root tincture No. 2, 250, angelica -tincture No. 2, 20, musk tincture No. 2, 12½, storax -tincture 6 diluted with alcohol 6½.</p> - -<p><i>Cologne water, eau de Cologne.</i>—Owing to its excellent -properties, Cologne water is, without doubt, one of the -most popular perfumes. It was invented early in the -eighteenth century, and is perhaps the only perfume -which has kept its reputation for so long a time. It -was formerly employed as a medicine in all imaginable -diseases, and even now is in some cases successfully used -in slight ailments, such as headache, nausea, etc.</p> - -<p>The success and reputation of Cologne water are the -natural results of a good product prepared with a -thorough knowledge of the subject. However, in order -to be enabled to impart to Cologne water its generally -known excellent qualities, it is necessary to have a -thorough knowledge of the materials used, as well as -to understand the method of fabrication, and the proper -treatment of all.</p> - -<p>For the preparation of actually good Cologne water -employment of the best materials is the first condition. -The alcohol must be pure, <i>i. e.</i>, free from fusel oil, and -95 to 96 per cent. strong, so as to effect a ready and -complete solution of the volatile oils. The latter also -should be of the best quality and proper age, <i>i. e.</i>, -neither too young nor too old. If too young or too -recently distilled, the aroma is not thoroughly de<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span>veloped, -and if, on the other hand, too old, they have -lost the greater portion of their aroma, are thickly fluid, -acquire a dark coloration, and are finally converted into -a resinous substance in which condition they are entirely -unfit for finer products. A cool and dry cellar is required -for storing volatile oils, and they must also be -protected from air and sunlight.</p> - -<p>Regarding the durability of the volatile oils used in -the preparation of Cologne water, the following may be -said:—</p> - -<p><i>Bergamot oil</i> is quite durable; in well-closed bottles -stored in a cool cellar it keeps quite well for 3 to 4 years. -<i>Oil of lemons</i> is, however, very sensitive, and has to be -especially protected against heat, by which it is readily -decomposed and, so to say, turns sour. Freshly-distilled -<i>neroli oil</i> should never be used, it acquiring its proper -aroma only after being stored for about 2 years; on the -other hand, it should not be too old. When 6 to 8 years -old, it shows a tendency to rancidity, which can, however, -be prevented by mixing it at the proper time with -an equal quantity of alcohol of the best quality. <i>Petit-grain -oil</i> is apt to spoil when kept for several years, and -hence it is not advisable to have too large a supply of it -on hand. Besides the French variety of this volatile -oil, there has existed for several years past another kind, -namely the <i>Paraguay petit-grain oil</i>, which is about -one-half cheaper than the French. While some consider -both oils as equally good, the French product no -doubt deserves the preference. Of <i>lavender oil</i> only the -best French oil, especially made in France for the preparation -of <i lang="fr">Eau de Cologne</i>, should be used. The price -of the English Mitcham lavender oil, being six times<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span> -that of the French oil, is simply excessive. Of <i>rosemary -oil</i>, an especially fine quality for Cologne water, which -can be highly recommended, is also manufactured in -France. Of <i>balm oil</i> only the best German product -should be taken. The three varieties of volatile oils -last mentioned keep for years, especially when kept in -hermetically-closed bottles in a cool place protected from -the sun.</p> - -<p>Rose water and orange-blossom water also need careful -treatment, the bottles containing them requiring to be -well stoppered and kept in a cool place. These waters -being liable to spoil, the supply of them should be -renewed from year to year. As regards the compounding -of the volatile oils, it is advisable to mix them in a -capacious glass flask, add at least an equal weight of -alcohol of the best quality, shake thoroughly, let the -mixture stand about 14 days, and then in the apparatus -incorporate it with the required quantity of alcohol.</p> - -<p>When the alcohol and volatile oils are intimately -mixed, the mixture is allowed to stand quietly for -about 14 days, when solution of the volatile oils will -be complete. Now add, with vigorous agitation, the rose -water and the orange-blossom water, and let the whole -stand quietly to become clear.</p> - -<p>Cologne water thus carefully prepared answers all demands. -Special attention is here called to the fact that -all manipulation by the addition of fixing or conspicuous -substances is injudicious. An addition of tincture of -musk or civet should particularly be avoided. Nervous -people immediately detect such additions, even if present -only in very small quantities, and in most cases refuse -the Cologne water containing them.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span></p> - -<p>Experience having shown that all alcoholic perfumes -develop their proper aroma only after storing for some -time, provision must be made to have always a sufficient -supply of Cologne water on hand. It is best to keep it -in large glass balloons in a cool cellar. Wooden vessels -are impracticable on account of their permeability and -other evils. Metallic vessels, if used, should be tinned. -Vessels defective in this respect, or tinned with tin containing -lead, exert an injurious effect upon the aroma of -the water. In the latter case, lead is dissolved, even if -only in small quantities, and a dirty precipitate injurious -to the odor of the Cologne water is formed.</p> - -<p>The filtering of the Cologne water is best effected -through white filtering paper and a glass funnel; the -paper, however, should not have been bleached with -chlorine, the odor of the latter being readily perceived -and having an injurious effect upon the aroma of the -water. Filtering should be avoided as much as possible -by carefully decanting off the clear water and filtering -the sediment only. Filtering through charcoal, magnesia, -or other clarifying agents, should not be made -use of for fine perfumes, their odor being injured by all -such means.</p> - -<p>In the following a selection of receipts for Cologne -water is given; it is, however, especially mentioned that -only good, pure materials must be used even for the -inferior qualities. A receipt for the now fashionable -"Maiglöckchen Eau de Cologne" is also given.</p> - -<p><i>Cologne water, quality I.</i>—Bring into a large glass -balloon 95 to 96 per cent. alcohol of the best quality -7.9 gallons, lemon oil 14.11 ozs., bergamot oil 15, neroli -oil 4.23, French extra lavender oil 1.05 oz., rosemary<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span> -oil 0.7, best German balm oil 0.42; mix thoroughly, -and after 14 days add best orange-blossom water and -rose water each 2.64 quarts. Mix again thoroughly, -and then let stand until wanted for use.</p> - -<p><i>Cologne water, quality II.</i>—Bring into a large glass -balloon 95 to 96 per cent. alcohol of the best quality -7.9 gallons, lemon oil 10.58 ozs., bergamot oil 12.34, -neroli oil 1.76, French extra lavender oil 0.8, rosemary -oil 0.63, finest German balm oil 0.35, French petit-grain -oil 0.8; mix thoroughly, and after 14 days add best -orange-blossom water and rose water each 2.64 quarts. -Mix again thoroughly, and then let stand until wanted -for use.</p> - -<p><i>Cologne water, quality III.</i>—Bring into a large glass -balloon 95 to 96 per cent. alcohol of the best quality -7.9 gallons, lemon oil 7.05 ozs., bergamot oil 7.94, -Portugal oil 3.52, French petit-grain oil 1.58, finest -rosemary oil 0.52, lavender oil 0.7, orange-blossom water -and rose water each 1.58 quarts, distilled water 2.11 -quarts. Proceed in the same manner as given for qualities -I and II.</p> - -<p><i>Cologne water, quality IV.</i>—Bring into a large glass -balloon alcohol free from fusel oil 7.9 gallons, lavender -oil 2.64 ozs., Portugal oil 2.64, petit-grain oil 0.7, rosemary -oil 0.52, bergamot oil 3.52, lemon oil 3.52, distilled -water 7.9 quarts. If this quality, after standing -for some weeks, should not become clear, use some magnesia -in filtering, or use less water.</p> - -<p><i>Cologne water, quality V.</i>—Bring into a glass balloon -alcohol free from fusel oil 7.9 gallons, Portugal oil -0.88 oz., rosemary oil 0.88, lavender oil, bergamot oil, -and lemon oil each 1.76. After standing for 14 days,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span> -add 7.9 quarts of distilled water. Proceed in the same -manner as given for quality IV.</p> - -<p><i>Maiglöckchen Eau de Cologne.</i>—95 to 96 per cent. alcohol -of the finest quality 10.56 quarts, bergamot oil and -lemon oil each 3.52 ozs., neroli oil 0.7, French extra -lavender oil 0.21, rosemary oil 0.14, best German balm -oil 0.7, ylang-ylang oil 0.17, <i>maiglöckchen</i> (lily of the -valley) extract 2.11 pints.</p> - -<p>Dissolve the 0.17 oz. of ylang-ylang oil by itself in -0.8 pint of alcohol of the best quality, and when the -solution is entirely clear add it to the rest in the balloon. -After standing for 14 days add carefully orange-blossom -water and rose water each 1.05 pints; shake thoroughly -and let the mixture stand quietly until perfectly clear.</p> - -<p><i>Various other receipts for Cologne water.</i>—I. Bergamot -oil 2 drachms, oil of lemon 2 drachms, oil of origanum -6 drops, oil of rosemary 20 drops, alcohol 1 pint, orange-flower -water 1 oz.</p> - -<p>II. Bergamot oil 14 parts, citron oil 34, oil of neroli -(petale) 20, oil of neroli (bigarade) 7, rosemary oil 14, -grape spirit 6000.</p> - -<p>III. Cologne spirits 3 quarts, oils of rosemary, bergamot, -cedrat, and lemon each 2 drachms, oil of neroli -1 drachm, water (warm) 2 pints; mix, filter until clear.</p> - -<p>IV. Cologne spirits 3 quarts, oil of lemon 5 drachms, -oil of bergamot 4 drachms, Portugal oil 3¾ drachms, -neroli oil ¾ drachm, petit-grain oil and rosemary oil -each ½ drachm, lavender oil 25 drops, oil of cloves -6 drops, extract <i>Pomm. jasmine</i> 4 ozs., water (warm) -32 ozs.; mix.</p> - -<p>V. Cologne spirits 1 gallon, rosemary oil ½ oz., lemon -oil 1 oz., lavender oil 1½ ozs., cinnamon oil 20 drops, -warm water 1 quart; mix.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span></p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Eau de Lavande.</i>—For <i lang="fr">eau de lavande</i>, but two receipts -are given: <i lang="fr">Eau de vie de Lavande double ambrée</i> and -<i lang="fr">eau de Lavande double</i>, the former being a very agreeable -perfume for toilet purposes, and is used as an addition to -wash-water as well as to baths and for fumigating. On -account of its balsamic constituents, <i lang="fr">eau de Lavande -ambrée</i> in being manufactured cannot be mixed with -water, as the latter would produce an emulsion which -cannot be removed. <i lang="fr">Eau de Lavande double</i> is used for -the toilet, in the wash-water, or the bath. It is very -popular, its action upon the skin and nerves being refreshing -and stimulating.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Eau de vie de Lavande double ambrée.</i>—Alcohol of the -best quality 5.18 quarts, best quality of lavender oil -3.52 ozs., French rose geranium oil 0.7, oils of cassia, -bergamot, lemon, and French petit grain each 0.88, -Peru balsam 5.29, orris-root tincture 2.11 quarts, ambergris -tincture 5.29 ozs., musk tincture 0.28, storax tincture -8.81, tolu-balsam tincture 5.29, benzoin tincture -10.58. No water should be added.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Eau de Lavande double.</i>—Best quality of alcohol -10.56 quarts, best lavender oil 8.81 ozs., Portugal oil -and bergamot oil each 1.76. After 14 days add 2.11 -pints of orange-blossom water.</p> - -<p><i>Aqua mellis.</i>—Coriander seed 7 lbs., cloves 12 ozs., -storax 8 ozs., nutmegs (bruised) 8 ozs., lemon-peel 10 -ozs., calamus 6 ozs., proof spirit 15 pints, water 8 pints.</p> - -<p>Macerate for a month in a closed vessel, then distil -22 pints, and to the distillate add: Orange-flower water -5 pints, rose oil 24 drops, ambergris 1 grain, vanilla 2 -ozs. Macerate for 8 days and filter.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Eau de Lisbonne.</i>—Lemon oil 2¼ ozs., Portugal oil -4½ ozs., rose oil 4¼ drachms, alcohol 5 quarts.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span></p> - - - - -<div class="chapter"><h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.</a></h2></div> - -<p class="subh">DRY PERFUMES.</p> - - -<p>In ancient times dry perfumes were almost exclusively -used, but, independent of fumigating agents, which will -be considered later on, the consumption of dry or solid -perfumes is at present a limited one. Sachet powders -(<i lang="fr">poudres pour sachets</i>) are, however, still manufactured -in large quantities. The preparation of solid perfumes -with the assistance of paraffine has been recently commenced, -but up to the present time such perfumes have -not become of any importance. Smelling salts may also -be classed among the dry perfumes.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Sachet Powders.</span>—Sachet powders (<i lang="fr">poudres pour -sachets</i>) are generally put into silk or satin bags or into -ornamental paper envelopes and are useful for perfuming -clothes, drawers, trunks, desks, letter paper, etc.</p> - -<p>The incorporation of the powders with bags or -envelopes is effected by dividing them between thin -layers of cotton, bringing the cotton together with the -powder in fine tissue paper into the shape of the respective -bag, cushion, etc., and then inclosing them in the -bag or envelope.</p> - -<p>A selection of receipts for such powders is here given. -Their manufacture is not difficult; however, the weighing -off of the constituents should be conscientiously done, -and in mixing the powders with the volatile oils, etc.,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span> -care should be had not to cause any unnecessary dust -and consequent loss of powder. After mixing, the powder -is passed through a sieve.</p> - -<p><i>Sachet à la rose.</i>—Ground rose leaves, ground rose -wood and pulverized starch each 50 drachms, Turkish -rose oil 1½, rose-geranium oil 2½, oil of cloves 1, bergamot -oil 2½, musk tincture 1.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Sachet à la violette.</i>—Ground orris root 125 drachms, -ground lavender flowers and pulverized starch each 50, -liquid orris-root oil<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> 2½, sandal-wood oil ½, musk tincture -2, extrait violette 25.</p> - -<p><i>Héliotrope sachet powder.</i>—Ground lavender flowers -50 drachms, ground orris root and ground rose leaves -each 25, ground benzoin 10, pulverized starch 50, bergamot -oil 10, rose geranium oil 2½, oil of cloves and musk -tincture each 1½, vanilla tincture 12½, extrait héliotrope -25, oil of bitter almonds 2 drops.</p> - -<p><i>Ylang-ylang sachet powder.</i>—Ground starch 100 -drachms, orris-root powder 25, ground lavender flowers -12½, ground vitivert root and ground rose wood each -25, bergamot oil 2½, ylang-ylang oil 1, tinctures of musk -and of cumarin each 1½, extrait ylang-ylang 20.</p> - -<p><i>Jockey club sachet.</i>—Ground orris root, ground rose -leaves and ground rose wood each 50 drachms, ground -lavender flowers 25, African rose geranium oil 5, oils -of Ceylon cinnamon and bergamot each 2½, oils of cloves -and cedar each 1, musk tincture 2½, civet tincture 1, -extrait jockey club 22½.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span></p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Sachet aux millefleurs.</i>—Ground starch 50 drachms, -ground orris root, ground lavender flowers, ground rose -wood, and exhausted vanilla pulverized, each 50 drachms, -pulverized cloves 20, bergamot oil and African geranium -oil each 2½, verbena oil 1, tincture of benzoin and musk -root each 5, musk tincture 5.</p> - -<p><i>Lily of the valley sachet powder.</i>—Pulverized starch -50 drachms, ground orris root 25, ground lavender -flowers and ground rose wood each 12½, ground vitivert -root and ground benzoin each 25, bergamot oil 5, wintergreen -oil 2, ylang-ylang oil and angelica oil each ½, -bitter almond oil 2 drops, storax tincture 5 drachms, -musk tincture 1½, extrait muguet 25.</p> - -<p><i>Patchouli sachet powder.</i>—Ground patchouli leaves -100, ground rose leaves and ground lavender flowers, -each 25, patchouli oil 2½, oil of cloves 1, bergamot oil -and African geranium oil each 2½.</p> - -<p><i>Frangipani sachet powder.</i>—Pulverized starch 25 -drachms, ground orris root 75, ground rose leaves 50, -ground lavender flowers 25, Portugal oil 5, petit-grain -oil and African geranium oil, 2½, Ceylon cinnamon oil -1½, musk tincture 2½, civet tincture 1½, tinctures of -cumarin and vitivert each 10.</p> - -<p><i>Victoria sachet powder.</i>—Ground lavender flowers 50 -drachms, ground rose wood and ground rose leaves each -25, ground orange peel 12½, ground benzoin 25, ground -vitivert root 12½, Turkish rose oil 1, bergamot oil 2½, -oils of cloves and verbena each 1, musk tincture 1½, -civet tincture 1.</p> - -<p><i>Réséda sachet powder.</i>—Ground orris root 100 drachms, -ground rose leaves 50, ground rose wood 25, clove oil, -African geranium oil, and bergamot oil each 2½, musk<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span>-root -tincture 10, vanilla tincture 5, musk tincture 1, -extrait réséda 25.</p> - -<p><i>Musk sachet powder.</i>—Ground musk root, ground exhausted -musk sacs, and ground lavender flowers, each -50 drachms, ground benzoin 25, cassia oil, palma-rose -oil, and clove oil each 2½, musk tincture 22½.</p> - -<p><i>Ess-bouquet sachet powder.</i>—Ground rose wood and -ground lavender flowers each 50 drachms, ground vitivert -root 25, ground opopanax 12½, ground orris root -25, bergamot oil and lemon oil each 2½, clove oil 1, -Ceylon cinnamon oil 1½, African geranium oil 2½, sandal-wood -oil and licari oil each 1, musk tincture 2½, civet -tincture 1½, extrait ess-bouquet 25.</p> - -<p><i>New-mown hay sachet powder.</i>—Pulverized starch 25 -drachms, ground rose leaves and ground lavender -flowers, each 50, ground orris root and ground benzoin, -each 25, bergamot oil 5, angelica oil and Java cananga -oil each 1½, tonka-bean extract 7½, musk tincture 1½, -vitivert tincture 7½.</p> - -<p><i>Orange sachet powder.</i>—Ground orange peels 100 -drachms, ground lemon peels 50, ground lavender -flowers 25, Portugal oil 10, neroli oil and petit grain -oil each 1½, bergamot oil 2½, musk-tincture 1½, musk-root -tincture 10.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Solid Perfumes with Paraffine.</span> The solid -perfumes simply consist of hard paraffine, which, when -melted, is perfumed with a corresponding quantity of -any desired perfume-essence and poured into moulds. -A few mixtures for such perfumes are here given:—</p> - -<p><i>White rose.</i>—Rose geranium oil and bergamot oil each -10 drachms, patchouli oil and oil of cloves 1½.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Ess-bouquet.</i>—Coriander oil 1 drachm, oil of cloves -7, nutmeg oil 3.5, lavender oil 10, sandal-wood oil 3.5, -bergamot oil 30, rose oil and rose-geranium oil each 2, -neroli oil 0.6.</p> - -<p><i>Lavender odor.</i>—Lavender oil 50 drachms, bergamot -oil 25, cinnamon oil 0.3, geranium oil 2.5, neroli oil 0.5.</p> - -<p><i>Eau de Cologne.</i>—Bergamot oil and lime oil each 30 -drachms, lemon oil and neroli oil each 15, rosemary oil -5, rose geranium oil 0.6.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Smelling Salts.</span> Smelling salts are ammoniacal -perfumes in a solid form, Preston salt (<i lang="fr">sel de Preston</i>) -being one of the most popular. It is generally prepared -by intimately rubbing together in a porcelain mortar -equal parts of sal ammoniac or ammonium carbonate -and lime freshly slaked to a powder, and perfuming the -mixture, according to the quality of volatile salts desired, -with a finer or inferior perfume.</p> - -<p>William W. Bartlett prepares Preston salt without -lime according to the following receipt: Powdered chloride -of ammonium 1½ ozs., powdered carbonate of potassium -1 oz. 6 drachms, coarsely powdered carbonate of -ammonium 3 drachms, oils of clove and bergamot each -10 drops.</p> - -<p>Mr. Bartlett also gives a formula for a "<i>menthol pungent</i>" -which is quite agreeable to the smell and a novelty -for headache and faintness. It is prepared by leaving -out the essential oils in the above formula and substituting -in their place 1 drachm of menthol.</p> - -<p><i>White smelling</i> salt consists essentially of perfumed -carbonate of ammonia. There are several receipts for -it, one frequently used being as follows: Mix in a capacious -porcelain mortar 2.2 lbs. of ammonium carbonate<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span> -with 1.1 lb. of ammonia, cover the mortar and let it -stand quietly. In the course of a few days the contents -have been converted into normal carbonate of ammonia. -The latter is reduced to a coarse powder and perfumed -with bergamot oil 0.56 drachm, lavender oil 0.9, -nutmeg oil, clove oil, and rose oil each 0.28, cinnamon -oil 2.82.</p> - -<p>The incorporation of the volatile oils is effected by -first triturating about 1/10 of the salt with the volatile -oils and then gradually incorporating with this perfumed -mass the rest of the salt, a uniform distribution of the -odor being in this manner effected.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span></p> - - - - -<div class="chapter"><h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X.</a></h2></div> - -<p class="subh">FUMIGATING ESSENCES, PASTILLES, POWDERS, ETC.</p> - - -<p>Fumigating agents are divided into liquid and dry, -the first being alcoholic solutions, and perhaps most -popular. They consist of extractions from resins, balsams, -leaves, flowers, seeds, wood, and roots, compounded -with volatile oils, alcohol, and alcoholic extracts from -French flower pomades.</p> - -<p>It should be the aim of the perfumer to compound -these substances so that a harmonious blending together -of all the ingredients is attained. The object of fumigating -living rooms, sleeping rooms, and sick chambers -is not only to make abode in these rooms more agreeable -by an attempt to cover the disagreeable odors, but chiefly -to render them innoxious, thus combining the useful with -the agreeable.</p> - -<p>For several years past a strong prejudice against fumigating -has been developed. Such prejudice may be justified -in certain cases, especially when the fumigating agents -contain musk or are otherwise incorrectly composed. An -addition of musk, even in very small quantities, causes -nervous persons to dislike fumigating agents containing -it, because it is a well-known fact that musk excites the -nerves in a high degree, and hence in most cases fumigating -with agents containing it does more harm than good.</p> - -<p>The mode of fumigating has also to be taken into con<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span>sideration. -It is, for instance, entirely incorrect to place -the fumigating agent upon very hot iron, a hot stovepipe, -or glowing coals, because in evaporating upon hot -iron, it leaves behind an empyreumatic, pungent odor -excitatory to cough, while the actual aroma is lost and -thus the object of fumigating is frustrated.</p> - -<p>To derive the best effects from the fumigating agent -it should be placed upon a moderately warm article so -that it will slowly evaporate. Liquid fumigating agents -may also be mixed in a porcelain vessel with distilled -water. By placing the vessel upon a warm stove, evaporation -proceeds at a still slower rate, because the fumigating -agent can only evaporate together with the water, -whereby its aroma becomes still more agreeable. The -use of rose water or orange water instead of distilled -water considerably enhances the success of fumigating.</p> - -<p>The so-called atomizers may here be mentioned. They -are very practicable for cold fumigating, <i>i. e.</i>, for the distribution -of pine odor, Cologne water, etc. On account -of their content of musk the atomization of <i lang="fr">Extraits -d'Odeurs</i> in the presence of nervous people cannot be -recommended.</p> - -<p>The dry fumigating agents, such as powders, pastilles, -paper, and lacquer, are less popular than the fluid, it -being necessary for the purpose of fumigating to place -them upon hot articles, heat them, or burn them. These -manipulations develop more or less smoke, which frequently -exerts a disagreeable effect upon the respiratory -organs. The most injurious of these methods of hot -fumigation is that by means of hot coals, whereby the -aroma of the fumigating agent is largely destroyed, and -the very injurious gas emanating from the coals is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span> -inhaled. A heated piece of sheet-iron is, however, very -suitable for fumigation by means of powder or lacquer. -Scatter the powder upon it or coat it with the lacquer.</p> - -<p>Several approved receipts for liquid and dry fumigating -agents are here given.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Fumigating Essences and Vinegars.</span> Great care -should be exercised in making the following receipts for -liquid fumigating agents. After mixing, shake thoroughly, -and let the product stand quietly for at least -several weeks, the aroma of all alcoholic perfumes being -improved by storing for some time. It need scarcely -be said that alcohol of the finest quality is to be used, -since, if it contains fusel oil, the attainment of a fine -product is absolutely impossible. To decrease the cost -of manufacture, it might be permissible to increase the -proportion of alcohol, but an inferior quality of it should, -under no conditions, be employed.</p> - -<p><i>Rose-flower fumigating essence.</i>—Alcohol, extract No. -1, from French-rose pomade and benzoin tincture each -1 quart, musk-root tincture No. 1, 8¾ ozs., Turkish -rose oil and clove oil each 2¾ drachms, French rose-geranium -oil 5½ drachms. Dissolve the rose oil in the -other volatile oils.</p> - -<p><i>Flower fumigating essence, héliotrope.</i>—Alcohol and -extract No. 1 from French héliotrope pomade each 1 -quart, vanilla tincture No. 1 and orris-root tincture -each 1 pint, tinctures of benzoin and tolu balsam each -½ pint, musk-root tincture No. 1, 7 ozs., cumarin tincture -5¼ ozs., Portugal oil 1 oz., French rose-geranium -oil 11¼ drachms, clove oil 5½ drachms, best lavender oil -11¼ drachms.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Violet flower fumigating essence.</i>—Alcohol 1 quart, -extracts No. 1 from French-violet pomade and cassie -pomade each 1 pint, orris-root tincture No. 1, 1 quart, -benzoin tincture 1 pint, storax tincture ¼ pint, abelmosk -tincture No. 1, 4¼ ozs., ambergris tincture 11¼ -drachms, orris-root oil 2¾ drachms, bergamot oil 11¼ -drachms, best lavender oil 5½ drachms, myrrh oil 1½ -drachms, basil oil 2¾ drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Oriental-flower fumigating essence.</i>—Alcohol 1 quart, -extract from French-rose pomade 17½ ozs., extracts -from French-jasmine pomade, jonquille pomade, héliotrope -pomade and cassie pomades each 7 ozs., vanilla -tincture 7 ozs., tinctures of orris root, tonka beans, and -musk root each 3½ ozs., benzoin tincture 8½ ozs., tolu-balsam -tincture 4¼ ozs., storax tincture 5¼ ozs., olibanum -tincture 3½ ozs., ambergris tincture and bergamot -oil each 1¾ ozs., Ceylon cinnamon oil 5½ drachms, best -lavender oil 11 ozs., Turkish rose oil and clove oil each -5½ drachms, neroli oil 2¼ drachms, Peru balsam 3½ ozs.</p> - -<p><i>Pine odor</i> (<i>for atomizing</i>) No. 1.—Alcohol 2 quarts, -pine oil (from <i>Pinus picea</i>) 7 ozs., bergamot oil 5½ -drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Pine odor</i> (<i>for atomizing</i>) No. 2.—Alcohol 2 quarts, -dwarf-pine oil (from <i>Pinus pumilio</i>) 5¼ ozs., oil of -lemons 5½ drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Juniper odor.</i>—Alcohol 2 quarts, extra fine juniper -berry oil 3½ ozs., best lavender oil 5½ drachms, juniper -tincture 8¾ ozs.</p> - -<p>Pine odor or juniper odor may also be mixed in a -vessel with water, and thus used for fumigating.</p> - -<p><i>Fumigating balsam.</i>—Alcohol 3 quarts, orris-root tinc<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span>ture -1 quart, tinctures of benzoin, tolu balsam, and storax -each 17½ ozs., olibanum tincture 8¾ ozs., tinctures of -abelmosk and musk-root each 3½ ozs., vanilla tincture -1¾ ozs., Peru balsam 4¼ ozs., bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., lemon -oil 14 drachms, African rose geranium oil 11¼ drachms, -clove oil and cassia oil each 14 drachms, petit-grain oil -11¼ drachms, fine lavender oil 1¾ ozs.</p> - -<p><i>Fumigating water.</i>—Alcohol 10 quarts, orris-root tincture -No. 2, tinctures of storax, benzoin, and tolu balsam -each 1 quart, abelmosk tincture No. 2, 7 ozs., olibanum -tincture 8¾ ozs., Peru balsam and lavender oil each -3½ ozs., cassia oil and bergamot oil each 1 oz., thyme -oil ½ oz., clove oil and palmarosa oil each 1 oz.</p> - -<p><i>Fumigating vinegar.</i>—Alcohol 2 quarts, orris-root tincture -1 quart, benzoin tincture 1 pint, tinctures of tolu -balsam and storax each ½ pint, musk-root tincture -4¼ ozs., tinctures of vitivert and vanilla each 3½ ozs., -Peru balsam 1¾ ozs., lavender oil and clove oil each -8¼ drachms, Ceylon cinnamon oil and African rose-geranium -oil each 5½ drachms, acetic acid 4¼ ozs.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Fumigating Powders.</span> The lavender flowers, marigold -flowers (<i>Calendula officinalis</i>), rose leaves, etc., used -in the preparation of fumigating powders are not pulverized, -but so far comminuted with a suitable instrument -as to form a distinctly colored mixture. To dissolve -the volatile oils, they are thoroughly mixed with the alcoholic -extracts mentioned in the receipts. The perfume -thus obtained is finally incorporated with the powders -by rubbing together with the hands. To prevent loss -of perfume, it is mixed with the powders in a porcelain -or enamelled vessel.</p> - -<p><i>Ordinary fumigating powder.</i>—Lavender flowers, mari<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span>gold -flowers, corn flowers, rose leaves, rasped orris root -each 2 lbs., cloves and cinnamon each 3½ ozs., rasped -sanders wood 17½ ozs., rasped cedar wood 8¾ ozs., fumigating -balsam 17½ ozs., bergamot oil and African rose-geranium -oil each 1¾ ozs., lavender oil 11¼ drachms.</p> - -<p>Besides the above-mentioned dry constituents, the residues -from odoriferous substances, such as vanilla, orris -root, vitivert root, juniper berries, etc., employed in the -preparation of tinctures may be used for ordinary fumigating -powders.</p> - -<p><i>Rose fumigating powder.</i>—Rose leaves and rose wood -each 2 lbs., lavender flowers and sanders wood each -1 lb., corn flowers ½ lb., tinctures of musk root and -abelmosk each 1¾ ozs., African rose-geranium oil 1 oz., -Turkish rose oil 2¾ drachms, bergamot oil 8¼ drachms, -clove oil 2¾ drachms, nutmeg oil 1½ drachms, extract -from French rose pomade 3½ ozs.</p> - -<p><i>Violet fumigating powder.</i>—Rasped orris root 4 lbs., -lavender flowers and rasped sanders wood each 1 lb., -orris-root tincture, abelmosk tincture, and bergamot oil -each 1¾ ozs., orris-root oil, basil oil, and Ceylon-cinnamon -oil each 2¾ drachms, extract from French cassie -pomade 1¾ ozs.</p> - -<p><i>Orange fumigating powder.</i>—Orange peels 4 lbs., -orange flowers and marigold flowers each 1 lb., musk-root -tincture and Portugal oil each 1¾ ozs., petit-grain oil 5½ -drachms, bergamot oil 11 drachms, extract from French -orange flower pomade 3½ ozs.</p> - -<p><i>New-mown hay fumigating powder.</i>—Lavender flowers -2 lbs., rose-leaves, rasped sanders wood, and rasped orris -root each 1 lb., powdered benzoin, Roman camomile, -curled mint and balm each ½ lb., exhausted tonka beans<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span> -1 lb., patchouli leaves and bergamot oil each 11¼ -drachms, African rose-geranium oil 8¼ drachms, tonka-bean -extract and abelmosk tincture each 1¾ ozs., extract -from French réséda pomade 3½ ozs.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Fumigating Paper.</span> Bring into a capacious shallow -dish a quantity of fumigating balsam and repeatedly -draw sheets of card-board through it, allowing the sheets -to thoroughly drain off and dry after each drawing -through. After repeating the operation about four -times, the sheets will be sufficiently perfumed and are -then coated by means of a fine brush with a solution of -gum-arabic in rose water. This gives to the sheets a -dull lustre, while the thin layer of gum-arabic also prevents -the volatilization of the aroma. The sheets thus -perfumed are cut up into pieces the size of a playing -card, and six to twelve such pieces put up in an envelope. -For use the paper is not ignited, but only heated. With -one such piece a room can be several times perfumed. -It may be remarked that before perfuming, the name of -the firm, directions for use, etc., are generally printed -upon the card-board.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Fumigating Pastilles.</span> Some perfumers make -more or less a specialty of the manufacture of fumigating -pastilles. They are generally of a red or black color, -different perfumes, names and qualities.</p> - -<p>To prepare them, the finely pulverized substances are -passed through a sieve and mixed in a capacious dish -with the volatile oils, tinctures, etc. The mixture of -powder and perfume is then made into a mass with a -mucilage of gum tragacanth, which is thoroughly -kneaded to make it homogeneous.</p> - -<p>The saltpetre given in the receipts is dissolved by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span> -itself in distilled water and last of all added to the mass. -Its object is to keep the pastilles burning after ignition.</p> - -<p>As regards the mucilage of gum-tragacanth, it may be -said that it readily spoils, especially in summer. When -it begins to get watery it is already useless and soon acquires -a bad odor; by decomposition it loses its cementing -power. Hence only a sufficient quantity for immediate -use should be made at one time.</p> - -<p>The moulding of the pastilles is very simple. A number -of tin cones into which the mass is pressed are used -for the purpose. After standing for a short time the -pastilles are taken from the moulds and allowed to dry.</p> - -<p><i>Ordinary red fumigating pastilles.</i>—Pulverized sanders -wood and pulverized Sumatra benzoin each 2 lbs., -finely pulverized sandarac and olibanum each 1 lb., -saltpetre 4¼ ozs. dissolved in distilled water; clove oil -5½ drachms, palmarosa oil 11 drachms, lavender oil -14 drachms. Mucilage of gum-tragacanth as much as -required.</p> - -<p><i>Ordinary black fumigating pastilles.</i>—Charcoal 2 -lbs., finely pulverized Sumatra benzoin 2 lbs., finely -pulverized olibanum 1 lb., saltpetre 4¼ ozs., dissolved -in distilled water; lavender oil, cassia oil, and citronella -oil each 11¼ drachms. Mucilage of gum-tragacanth as -much as required.</p> - -<p><i>Musk fumigating pastilles.</i>—Pulverized genuine linden -charcoal 2 lbs., pulverized musk root and orris root -each 1 lb., pulverized sanders wood, Siam benzoin, and -abelmosk each ½ lb., saltpetre 4¼ ozs., dissolved in distilled -water; Tonkin musk 1½ drachms, triturated in -distilled water; African-rose geranium oil, Portugal<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span> -and cedar oil each 5½ drachms. Mucilage of gum-tragacanth -as much as required.</p> - -<p><i>Rose fumigating pastilles.</i>—Pulverized sanders wood -2 lbs., powdered sandarac and Siam benzoin each 1 lb., -carmine, dissolved in rose water, 1½ drachms; saltpetre -3½ ozs., bergamot oil 5½ drachms, clove oil, Turkish -rose oil, and French rose-geranium oil each 2.75 -drachms. Gum-tragacanth dissolved in rose water as -much as required.</p> - -<p><i>Violet fumigating pastilles.</i>—Powdered orris root 2 -lbs., pulverized sanders wood 1 lb., pulverized Siam -benzoin and opopanax each ½ lb., saltpetre 3½ ozs., -dissolved in distilled water; tolu-balsam tincture 3½ -ozs., orris-root oil and bergamot oil each 5½ drachms, -myrrh oil 2¾ drachms. Mucilage of gum-tragacanth -as much as required.</p> - -<p><i>Millefleurs fumigating pastilles.</i>—Pulverized linden -charcoal 2 lbs., pulverized sanders wood, Siam benzoin, -and orris root each 1 lb., pulverized olibanum ½ lb.; -saltpetre 4¼ ozs., dissolved in distilled water; bergamot -oil and African rose-geranium oil each 14 drachms, -Ceylon cinnamon oil, Paraguay petit-grain oil, and -juniper-berry oil each 5½ drachms, Peru balsam 1¾ -ozs., civet tincture 5½ drachms, musk-root tincture 3½ -ozs. Mucilage of gum-tragacanth as much as required.</p> - -<p><i>Fumigating lacquer.</i>—Fumigating lacquer consists -chiefly of resins, to which sufficient liquid storax is -added to render the mass plastic, so that sticks of any -desired length and thickness can be formed therefrom.</p> - -<p>The resins and licorice mentioned in the receipt given -below are gradually and very carefully melted in an<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span> -iron pan over a gas or petroleum flame. To prevent -the resins from scorching, the bottom of the pan must -constantly be kept free with a small iron spatula. -When the mass is perfectly fluid the Frankfort black is -added, and the whole thoroughly worked until no more -lumps of Frankfort black are present. The pan is then -taken from the fire, and, after allowing the mass to -cool somewhat, it is perfumed with the thoroughly -mixed perfume.</p> - -<p>A lithographic stone, not too small, is used for giving -the fumigating lacquer a round form. The stone is -rubbed with a rag moistened with a very small quantity -of olive oil. A small portion of the still very warm -mass is then poured upon the stone and rolled with the -hands, which should also be moistened with a little olive -oil, into sticks of desired thickness. The sticks are cut -into the desired lengths while the lacquer is still warm, -and the operation is thus continued until the entire mass -is worked up. The mass in the pan must, of course, be -constantly kept liquid.</p> - -<p>Siam benzoin, olibanum, and myrrh each 8¾ ozs., -storax as free from water as possible 3½ ozs., licorice -17½ ozs., Peru balsam 3½ ozs., Frankfort black 5¼ ozs., -bergamot oil 14 drachms, African rose-geranium oil, -cassia oil, juniper-berry oil, and eucalyptus oil each -11¼ drachms.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span></p> - - - - -<div class="chapter"><h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI.</a></h2></div> - -<p class="subh">DENTIFRICES, MOUTH-WATERS, ETC.</p> - - -<p>For cleansing and preserving the teeth and gums, -<i>soaps</i>, <i>powders</i>, and <i>tinctures</i> are used, and for removing -foul breath, <i>mouth-waters</i>.</p> - -<p>Great care is required in compounding dentifrices -and mouth-waters, and special attention must be paid -to the correct selection of the material. The substances -used must be chemically pure, and no caustic or sharp -or grating materials, such as pumice, sand, <i>ossa sepiæ</i>, -etc., should be employed, they destroying the enamel of -the teeth.</p> - -<p>The coloring substances used to give the dentifrices -and mouth-waters a pleasing appearance should under -no condition be injurious or poisonous, such as, for instance, -brilliant rosa, cinnabar, aniline, chrome yellow, -picric acid, etc. The perfumes have also to be carefully -selected, and all repugnant volatile oils and tinctures, -such as bitter-almond oil, sandal-wood oil, musk tincture, -etc., should be avoided. On the other hand, -peppermint oil forms the principal constituent of the -perfume for most dentifrices and mouth-waters, this -preference being not only due to its agreeable odor, but -chiefly to its pleasant, refreshing, and stimulating action -upon our organs.</p> - -<p>In accordance with recent medical directions and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span> -opinions soap is again employed, and justly so, for the -better cleansing of the teeth, whilst formerly it was -generally considered injurious. However, though soap -is innocuous to the teeth, it should be used in very -limited quantities, since its introduction into the mouth -is repugnant to many persons, producing in many cases -vomiting. The quality of the soap must also be taken -into consideration, and only the best neutral soap in the -form of a powder, such as is used for fine milled soaps, -should be employed.</p> - -<p>The alcohol used for the tooth and mouth-waters—more -correctly tinctures—should be perfectly free from -fusel oil, and of 95 to 96 per cent. strength. The best -qualities of volatile oils should be taken, and the tinctures -prepared with the greatest care.</p> - -<p>The dentifrices for preventing caries, among which -the thymol preparations are the most prominent, deserve -special attention. The most celebrated physicians have -long since recognized thymol as an antiseptic, it being -much used in hospitals, and is frequently preferred to -carbolic acid. For this reason thymol preparations should -be used for preserving the teeth. They render good service, -especially in the case of hollow teeth, as they remove -the foul odor and protect the sound teeth from -becoming hollow. For cleansing artificial teeth thymol -tooth-water can be especially recommended. Great care -should, therefore, be exercised in the preparation of these -thymol dentifrices. On the other hand, according to -medical opinions, dentifrices containing salicylic acid -cannot be recommended, the acid, it is claimed, being -very injurious to the enamel of the teeth.</p> - -<p>Glycerin, which occurs in several receipts for denti<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span>frices -and mouth-waters, fulfills a double object; on the -one hand, its action upon the teeth and mouth is beneficial, -and, on the other, it covers the naturally bitter -taste of many substances contained in the preparations, -and thus makes them more agreeable to use.</p> - -<p>The receipts for dentifrices and mouth-waters here -given have been thoroughly tested, and can be highly -recommended.</p> - -<p><i>Tooth and mouth waters.</i> <i>Thymol tooth-water.</i>—Alcohol -of best quality 5 quarts, chemically pure glycerin of -28° B. 17½ ozs., crystallized thymol 1 oz., white -thyme oil and best peppermint oil each 1¼ ozs., tinctures -of arnica and guaiacum each 1¾ ozs., cochineal -tincture, for coloring, 2¾ to 3½ ozs.</p> - -<p>Bring all the ingredients into a glass balloon, shake -thoroughly, and protect the liquid from sunlight.</p> - -<p>The cochineal tincture is prepared from 14 ozs. of -cochineal and 1 quart of alcohol of best quality, the -arnica tincture from 2 lbs. of arnica root and 2½ quarts -of alcohol of best quality, and the guaiacum tincture -from 5¼ ozs. of guaiacum-wood and 1 quart of alcohol -of best quality.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Eau dentifrice Botot.</i>—Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, -chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 17¾ ozs., peppermint -oil 2 ozs., clove oil 11 drachms, anise-seed oil 5 drachms, -ratany tincture and vanilla tincture each 5¼ ozs., Peruvian -bark tincture 1¾ ozs., sanders-wood tincture, as -coloring matter, 3½ ozs. Proceed as above.</p> - -<p>The sanders-wood tincture is prepared by macerating -5¼ ozs. of red sanders wood with 1 quart of alcohol.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Eau dentifrice Orientale.</i>—Alcohol of best quality 5 -quarts, peppermint oil and rose-geranium oil each 1¼ ozs.,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span> -clove oil 11¼ drachms, <i>extrait rose</i> and ratany tincture -each 3½ ozs., vanilla tincture 1¾ ozs. Proceed as above -and color rose color with corallin tincture.</p> - -<p>The ratany tincture is prepared from 17½ ozs. of ratany -root and 1 quart alcohol, and the corallin tincture from -17½ ozs. of corallin and 1 quart alcohol.</p> - -<p><i>Violet mouth-water.</i>—Tincture of benzoin 7 parts, tincture -of ratany 30, tincture of myrrh 60, rose water 250, -tincture of orris root 500, alcohol 250.</p> - -<p><i>Antiseptic gargle.</i>—The following solution is recommended -for sterilizing the mouth after the teeth have -been cleansed with a tooth-brush and soap: Thymol 3½ -grains, benzoic acid 45, tincture of eucalyptus 180, water -1½ pints.</p> - -<p><i>Odontine.</i>—Exhaust 3 ozs. of pulverized myrrh with -a mixture of 25 ozs. of alcohol and 8 ozs. of water. -Then dissolve 1½ ozs. of Castile soap shavings in a mixture -of 25 ozs. of alcohol and 8 ozs. of water, and -color wine-red with alkannin. Then add lemon oil 30 -drops, peppermint oil 30 drops, wintergreen oil 10 -drops, star-anise oil 30 drops, and finally 4 ozs. of -glycerin. After allowing the whole to stand in a cool -place for one or two weeks, filter, mix the filtrate with -10 drachms of acetic ether, and fill in bottles.</p> - -<p><i>Sozodont.</i>—White Castile soap ½ oz., oil of peppermint -5 drops, oil of wintergreen 12 drops, glycerin ½ oz., -water 1 oz., alcohol 2 ozs., cochineal tincture sufficient -to color.</p> - -<p><i>Eau de Botot</i> (<i>improved</i>).—Cloves, star-anise, and soap -bark, each 2½ drachms, cochineal 1½ drachms. Pulverize -and percolate with the following mixture: Alcohol 20 -ozs., rose water 4 ozs. To the percolate add: Cream of -tartar 45 grains, oil of peppermint 1½ drachms. Filter.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Quinine tooth-water.</i>—Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, -peppermint oil 1 oz., clove oil ½ oz., Ceylon cinnamon -oil 2¾ drachms, Peruvian bark-tincture 8¾ ozs., guaiacum-tincture -3½ ozs., myrrh tincture 1.75 ozs., glycerine -of 28° B. 17½ ozs. Proceed as above.</p> - -<p>The Peruvian bark-tincture is prepared by macerating -8¾ ozs. of Peruvian bark in 1 quart of alcohol of best -quality.</p> - -<p><i>Dr. Stahl's tooth-tincture.</i>—Alcohol of best quality 5 -quarts, peppermint oil 1¾ ozs., clove oil 5½ drachms, -French rose-geranium oil 8¼ drachms, vanilla-tincture -5¼ ozs., guaiacum-tincture 3½ ozs., benzoin tincture 8¾ -ozs., henna-tincture, as coloring matter, 8¾ ozs.</p> - -<p>Bring all the ingredients into a glass bottle, shake -thoroughly and protect the mixture from sunlight. -The tincture, when mixed with water, gives an emulsion.</p> - -<p>The henna-tincture is obtained by macerating 17½ -ozs. of henna-root in 4 quarts of alcohol.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Esprit de menthe.</i>—Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, -peppermint oil 4¼ ozs.</p> - -<p><i>Arnica tooth-tincture.</i>—Alcohol of best quality and -arnica-tincture each 1 quart, Peruvian bark-tincture 1 -pint, glycerin of 28° B. 5¼ ozs., cochineal tincture, as coloring -matter, 1¾ ozs.</p> - -<p><i>Myrrh tooth-tincture.</i>—Alcohol of best quality 1 -quart, myrrh tincture 2 quarts, guaiacum-tincture -8¾ ozs.</p> - -<p>A few remarks may here be made regarding the use -of tooth tinctures. The tinctures should not be used -undiluted, they being apt to make tender gums sore, -cause pain, and may even produce inflammation. It is -best to dilute the tinctures somewhat with water whereby<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a></span> -they become milder and more agreeable to the gums. -An excellent article for rinsing out the mouth is obtained -by pouring a teaspoonful of the tincture into a tumbler -of water.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Tooth-Pastes and Tooth-Powders.</span> <i>Tooth-paste -or odontine, No. 1.</i>—Carbonate of magnesium 6 lbs., -sugar of milk 2 lbs., precipitated carbonate of calcium -4 lbs., alizarin, to color, 1¾ ozs., best soap-powder 7 -ozs., powdered gum-arabic 5¼ ozs., sugar 17½ ozs. dissolved -in distilled water 2½ quarts, chemically pure -glycerin of 28° B. 17½ ozs., peppermint oil 8¾ ozs., clove -oil 8¼ drachms.</p> - -<p>Pass the magnesia, sugar of milk, carbonate of calcium, -alizarin, soap-powder and gum-arabic through a -fine sieve and mix intimately; dissolve the sugar in the -distilled water and add the glycerin to the solution. -Bring the sifted powders into a mortar or other convenient -vessel, gradually add the fluid and thoroughly -mix with the hands. Then add the perfume, and convert -the whole into a solid paste with a wooden pestle. -Instead of mixing and working the mass in a mortar, -the operation is much more rapidly performed by passing -the mixture through the rolls of a soap mill, which must, -of course, be thoroughly cleansed for the purpose by -washing with water.</p> - -<p><i>Tooth-paste or odontine, No. 2.</i>—Carbonate of magnesium -and sugar of milk each 2 lbs., precipitated carbonate -of calcium 4 lbs., prepared chalk 10 lbs., sugar 4 -lbs. dissolved in water 5 quarts, best soap-powder 2 lbs., -alizarin, as coloring matter, 7 ozs., peppermint oil 10½ -ozs., clove oil 8¾ ozs.</p> - -<p>This paste is prepared in the same manner as No. 1,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span> -only the proportion of water has to be taken into consideration. -To prevent the mass from becoming too soft, -the water should be very gradually added.</p> - -<p><i>Thymol tooth-paste.</i>—Carbonate of magnesium 4 -lbs., sugar of milk 2 lbs., pulverized gum-arabic and -soap powder each 3½ ozs., carmine nacarat, as coloring -matter, 2¾ drachms, and alizarin, as coloring matter, 6¾ -drachms, sugar 10½ ozs., dissolved in distilled water 1¾ -quarts, peppermint oil 1¼ ozs., white thyme oil 2½ ozs., -crystallized thymol 1¼ ozs., arnica tincture 7 ozs. The -thyme oil, peppermint oil and arnica tincture are brought -into a bottle and the thymol is dissolved in the mixture. -By previously converting the thymol to a coarse powder -solution takes place quite rapidly. The further manipulation -is the same as given for tooth-paste No. 1.</p> - -<p><i>Cherry tooth-paste.</i>—Boil briskly 1 oz. potassium -carbonate and 1 oz. of powdered cochineal in a pint of -water until reduced to 12 or 13 ozs. When cold, add 1 -oz. cream of tartar, ½ oz. alum, 2 ozs. glycerin, and -water sufficient to make 16 ozs. of filtered solution. -Then add 4 ozs. of honey and set aside a few days to see -if fermentation occurs. Carefully mix the liquid with -2 lbs. prepared chalk, 1¾ ozs. orris powder and ¾ ozs. -cassia powder.</p> - -<p><i>Non-fermenting cherry tooth-paste.</i>—Fine powdered -pumice stone 2 ozs., powdered orris root 2 ozs., powdered -myrrh ½ oz., honey 4 ozs., sufficient liquid cochineal to -color, oil of cloves ½ drachm, essence of lemon 1½ -drachms, rose oil 8 drops. Mix well.</p> - -<p><i>Odontine paste.</i>—French chalk 30 drachms, soap 15, -sugar 15, gum-arabic 2, peppermint oil 2, glycerin 8, -water 8. Work into a paste.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Thymol tooth-powder.</i>—Sugar of milk and carbonate -of magnesium each 2 lbs., precipitated carbonate of -calcium 1 lb., best soap-powder 7 ozs., alizarin, as coloring -matter, and crystallized thymol, each 1 oz., glycerin -of 28° B. 5¼ ozs., arnica tincture 7 ozs., white thyme -oil 1½ ozs., peppermint oil 11¼ drachms.</p> - -<p>Thoroughly mix—preferably in a capacious enamelled -vessel—the powdered and colored ingredients, add the -thymol dissolved in the mixture of the volatile oils, -arnica tincture and glycerin, rub and uniformly mix the -whole with the hands, so that no specks of coloring matter -and perfume are perceptible, and then again pass -through a fine sieve.</p> - -<p>Tooth powder is best kept in well closed tin boxes; -boxes of wood or paste-board are not suitable for the -purpose, the powder, when kept in them, losing in -quality.</p> - -<p>The above explanations refer to all the following tooth -powders:—</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Poudre dentifrice.</i>—Precipitated carbonate of calcium -2 lbs., carbonate of magnesium 1 lb., sugar of milk 1½ -lbs., fine soap-powder 5¼ ozs., alizarin, as coloring matter, -5¼ ozs., peppermint oil 2 ozs., clove oil 5½ drachms, -Ceylon cinnamon oil 2¾ drachms, rose-geranium oil 5½ -drachms, vanilla tincture 1¾ ozs. Proceed as given for -thymol tooth-powder.</p> - -<p><i>Violet tooth-powder.</i>—Orris-root powder 3 lbs., carbonate -of magnesium 1 lb., sugar of milk 1½ lbs., best -soap-powder 5¼ ozs., Portugal oil and peppermint oil -each 1 oz., ratany tincture 3½ ozs. Proceed as given -for thymol tooth-powder.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Dr. Hufeland's tooth-powder.</i>—Pulverized sanders -wood, Peruvian bark, and precipitated carbonate of -calcium each 2 lbs., best soap-powder 7 ozs., bergamot -oil and Portugal oil each 11 drachms, clove oil and -cassia oil each 14 drachms, myrrh tincture 1¾ ozs. -Proceed as given for thymol tooth-powder.</p> - -<p><i>White tooth-powder.</i>—Carbonate of magnesium, precipitated -carbonate of calcium, and prepared chalk each -1 lb., soap-powder 3½ ozs., peppermint oil 1 oz., clove -oil 5½ drachms. Proceed as given for thymol tooth-powder.</p> - -<p><i>Black tooth-powder.</i>—Finely pulverized linden charcoal -2 lbs., precipitated carbonate of calcium 1 lb., best -soap-powder 3½ ozs., peppermint oil 1¾ ozs., clove oil -8¼ drachms, guaiacum tincture 3½ ozs. Proceed as -given for thymol tooth-powder.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Poudre de corail.</i>—Carbonate of magnesium 1 lb., -sugar of milk 7 ozs., prepared chalk 1 lb., best soap-powder -7 ozs., alizarin 3½ ozs., peppermint oil 1¾ ozs., -clove oil 5½ drachms, cassia oil 2¾ drachms. Proceed -as given for thymol tooth-powder.</p> - -<p><i>Camphor tooth-powder.</i>—Prepared chalk and precipitated -carbonate of calcium each 1 lb., best soap-powder -2½ ozs., peppermint oil 5½ drachms, camphor 1 oz. dissolved -in the necessary quantity of alcohol of best quality.</p> - -<p>Thoroughly mix all the ingredients and pass the mixture -through a fine sieve. This tooth-powder should be -used only every 5 or 6 days; when too frequently used -it affects the nerves.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Opiat liquide pour les dents.</i>—Genuine honey 1½ lbs., -sugar syrup 2½ ozs., best wheat flour 7 ozs., round-lake -2 ozs., peppermint oil and clove oil each 11¼ drachms.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></span></p> - -<p>Convert the round-lake into a fine powder and pass -it through a fine sieve into a capacious porcelain dish. -Then intimately mix it with the wheat flour, gradually -add the honey and syrup, and after thoroughly working -the mass for about ¼ hour, add the volatile oil. Now -work the whole thoroughly with the pestle, then cover -the dish, and after allowing it to stand quietly for about -36 hours, bring the mass into boxes of glass or tin provided -with screw-tops.</p> - -<p><i>Poudre d' Algerine.</i>—Cream of tartar and pulverized -red coral each 2 lbs., pulverized burnt alum 1 lb., pulverized -sugar of milk 2 lbs., cochineal as coloring -matter 3½ ozs.</p> - -<p>The pulverized ingredients are brought into an enamelled -vessel having a capacity of 12 quarts and -thoroughly mixed, so that the cochineal is uniformly -distributed in the mass. Now have ready about 3 quarts -of nearly boiling water and a thoroughly cleansed soap-stirrer -or similar instrument.</p> - -<p>When everything is prepared, quickly pour the hot -water upon the powder in the enamelled vessel and stir -rapidly and thoroughly during the effervescence which -immediately takes place. The effervescence gradually -ceases and the result will be a beautiful crimson colored -mass, the hot water having immediately and completely -dissolved the coloring matter of the cochineal. Now, -bring the mass into a shallow box lined with clean white -paper and place it to dry in an airy room, but do not -expose it to the air or sunlight. The next day the -mass in the box is thoroughly worked through, this -operation being repeated every day until the mass is dry. -It is then again powdered, whereby it acquires a rose<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span> -color, and is then sifted. The powder is perfumed with -peppermint oil 1 oz. and clove oil and cassia oil each 5½ -ozs., sufficient glycerin to prevent dust, being at the same -time rubbed in. With the addition of the glycerin the -beautiful crimson color of the powder reappears. This -tooth-powder possesses excellent cleansing qualities and -can be recommended chiefly to persons having yellow -teeth, as well as to smokers whose teeth commence to get -black.</p> - -<p><i>Dr. Hufeland's tooth soap.</i>—Best quality of tallow -melted without acid 14 lbs., soda lye of 38° B. 6½ lbs., -potash lye of 20° B. 1 lb. Further, yellow ochre 1 lb., -umber 4½ ozs., and precipitated carbonate of calcium 3 -lbs., stirred together with hot water 2 quarts. Peppermint -oil 5¼ ozs., clove oil 14 drachms.</p> - -<p>The kettle with the tallow strained through a cloth -is brought upon the water-bath and the tallow heated to -167° F. The lye heated to about 100° F. is then slowly -added to the tallow in the kettle, and, after stirring for -about ¼ hour, the mass is allowed to rest quietly, the -kettle being lightly covered and only a little steam admitted -or fire kept under the kettle, so that saponification -does not take place too rapidly.</p> - -<p>Saponification will be slowly effected from the sides of -the kettle in about one hour, the mass in the kettle rising -somewhat. This rising indicates that the process of -saponification is going on. The mass is now again -stirred, which must be done carefully and not hastily, as -otherwise the soap readily becomes spumous. When -the soap again lies quietly in the kettle, it will have the -appearance of a white prime grain-soap. Now add the -coloring substances and the precipitated carbonate of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</a></span> -calcium and thoroughly stir, so that the mass acquires a -uniform brown color. Then remove the kettle from the -water-bath, add the perfumes with constant stirring, -bring the finished tooth soap into the frame, lightly cover -the latter with the wooden lid and let stand over night. -The next day the tooth soap may be cut up into suitable -pieces, which are allowed to dry for about 12 hours and -then packed in tinfoil, etc.</p> - -<p><i>Tooth-soap.</i>—Castile soap 1 lb., prepared chalk 1 -oz., thymol 20 grains, oil of wintergreen 30 drops.</p> - -<p>Shave the soap into ribbons, beat it into a paste with -a little water, and add first the prepared chalk and lastly -the thymol and wintergreen oil dissolved in a little water.</p> - -<p><i>Saponaceous tooth-wash.</i>—White Castile soap 3 ozs., -oil of orange peel 10 drops, oil of cinnamon 5 drops, -water 4 ozs., alcohol 12 ozs.</p> - -<p>Shave the soap into ribbons; melt with the water in -a water-bath, adding the alcohol while still warm. -Continue the heat if necessary, until solution is effected. -When cold, dissolve the oils in the liquid.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span></p> - - - - -<div class="chapter"><h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII.</a></h2></div> - -<p class="subh">HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS, AND HAIR TONICS; HAIR -DYES AND DEPILATORIES.</p> - - -<p>To properly preserve the hair it requires to be occasionally -oiled, and the scalp to be frequently cleansed. -Pomades and oils serve for the former purpose, and hair -tonics for the latter. For the preparation of pomades, -fats, such as lard, beef-tallow, and beef-marrow, are -principally used, though cocoa butter, cocoanut oil, -castor oil, almond oil, spermaceti, and wax, and, more -recently, vaseline are also employed. For the preparation -of hair oils, fat oils, especially olive oil and almond -oil are used, but also poppy oil, peanut oil, sesame oil, -etc. The fats and oils used should not be rancid, for, on -the one hand, the bad odor arising from rancidity is -troublesome in perfuming, and, on the other, what is of -still greater importance, rancid fat injuriously affects the -scalp and the growth of the hair. Of the oils above -mentioned, which are sometimes used, poppy oil is a -drying oil, and, therefore, not suitable for the purpose.</p> - -<p>Some fats enjoy a special reputation as hair pomades, -the property of strengthening the scalp and promoting -the growth of the hair being ascribed to them. This is -especially the case as regards beef marrow and horse -fat,<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> whilst in olden times the bone marrow of the deer<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a></span> -(<i>cerval medullæ</i>) and bear's grease were believed to possess -this property. Cleopatra is said to have used the -latter, and many ladies are at the present time under -the impression that they apply it to their hair when they -use <i lang="fr">Pommade à la graisse d'ours</i>. Thoroughly purified -lard renders no doubt the same service as the above-mentioned -fats.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Pomades.</span> Pomades are prepared by two different -methods; the desired odor is imparted to the fat by the -extraction of the flowers of various plants, or the fat in -a semi-congealed state is perfumed with different volatile -oils.</p> - -<p>The fats used for pomades should, as above indicated, -be as fresh and pure as possible, so that they will keep -for a long time. Fats intended for fine pomades, for -which lard and beef-tallow are chiefly used, are generally -first subjected to purification by, for some time, treating -them with cold water, constantly renewed, and thoroughly -washing, so that all adhering particles of dirt -and mucus are removed, and the pomades prepared from -them are better protected against rancidity. For the -removal of the water adhering from washing, the fats -are remelted. Still greater durability is imparted to -the fat by adding in remelting a small quantity of salicylic -acid (2¾ drachms of the acid to 2 lbs. of fat), or of -gum benzoin. A small addition of ethyl nitrite also -renders the fats more durable.</p> - -<p>The purification of the fat, which generally consists -of 2 to 3 parts lard and 1 part beef-tallow, is frequently -effected as follows: Boil for about one hour 125 lbs. of -fat with about 30 gallons of water containing 1 lb. each -of common salt and alum in solution, constantly remov<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span>ing -the scum formed. After standing for several hours, -the fat thus purified is carefully taken off from the sediment -and water; it is then, together with 4 to 6 lbs. of -pulverized benzoin, for some time heated at 167° F., and -finally strained into stone jars, which, after the fat is -cold, are closed with a piece of bladder or waxed paper -and kept for use. Fat thus prepared keeps for years.</p> - -<p>For <i>coloring the pomades</i> are used: 1. <i>For red</i>: -Alkannin, cinnabar, carmine (triturated with a small -quantity of sal ammoniac and added to the fat) and -safranin (1 part of it dissolved in 20 parts alcohol and -80 parts water and added to the melted fat). 2. <i>For -yellow</i>: Annotto, turmeric, cadmium sulphide. 3. <i>For -brown</i>: Cocoa powder and ochre. 4. <i>For green</i>: Chlorophyl. -Besides the above-mentioned coloring substances, -a very intense coloring matter for pomades is brought -into commerce under the name "Lederin" by Saltzer & -Voigt, of Oker, Germany. It is manufactured in lemon -color, orange, cinnabar, violet, and brown shades, and 10 -to 12 drachms of it, triturated in a porcelain dish with -about 1 lb. of the warm fat, will impart a truly beautiful -color to 100 lbs. of fat or oil.</p> - -<p><i>Fine French Pomades</i> (<i>Flower Pomades</i>).—In France, -especially in the southern part, where the cultivation of -the various flowers, such as roses, violets, mignonette, -héliotrope, etc., is carried on on an extensive scale, the -fine pomades are prepared by the method previously -mentioned (see <a href="#Page_58">p. 58</a> <i>et seq.</i>).</p> - -<p>The maceration or extraction of the flowers is effected -as follows: The fat, generally consisting of 3 parts lard -and 1 part beef-tallow, is melted in an enamelled vessel -over the steam or water-bath. The flowers in a clean<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span> -linen bag are suspended in the fat, and after covering -the vessel the fat is kept, according to the strength of -the perfume of the respective variety of flower, for a day -or two more at a temperature of from 133° to 145° F. -The extracted and exhausted flowers are then taken out, -slightly pressed out, and thrown away. The same operation -with always the same quantities of fresh flowers -is then repeated ten to twelve times with the same fat, -until it is sufficiently perfumed. The pomade thus -obtained, to which some white vaseline is frequently -added, is then stirred until cold.</p> - -<p>Receipts for some flower pomades are here given:—</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Pommade à la rose.</i>—Extract, in the manner above -given, with 6 lbs. of lard and 2 lbs. of beef-tallow, both -thoroughly purified, 8 lbs. of fresh rose leaves. Treat -the fat ten to twelve times in the same manner with an -equal quantity of fresh rose leaves.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Pommade à l'acacia.</i>—Extract 6 lbs. of fresh acacia -flowers with 20 lbs. of fat, and repeat the operation ten -times with a like quantity of fresh flowers.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Pommade à la fleur d'orange.</i>—Extract 8 lbs. of fresh -orange flowers with 8 lbs. of fat, and repeat the operation -eight times with a like quantity of fresh flowers.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Pommade à l'héliotrope.</i>—Extract 8 lbs. of fresh héliotrope -flowers with 8 lbs. of fat, and repeat the operation -eight to ten times with an equal quantity of fresh flowers.</p> - -<p>All simple French pomades, for which flowers furnish -the perfume, are prepared in a similar manner. -For pomades are chiefly used the flowers of the geranium, -jasmine, mignonette, hyacinth, tuberose, narcissus, -lily, etc., the pomades as a rule receiving the name of the -perfume imparted to them.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</a></span></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Pomades according to the German Method.</span> -Most of the pomades consumed in Germany are -prepared from fresh, purified lard and beef-tallow, -though sometimes additions of wax, spermaceti, stearin, -castor-oil, cocoanut oil, etc., are made, or the pomade is -entirely composed of the latter fats. For inferior -qualities of pomades, borax is much used, since it not -only possesses the property of combining a quantity of -water with the fat, but also makes the pomade more -durable. Soap dissolved in hot water is also often -added to the fat, whereby not only considerable water -is fixed in the pomade, but the latter also becomes very -white and pliant. In regard to pomades containing -borax, it may be mentioned that safranin has proved a -durable substance for coloring the pomades red, while -alkannin suffers alterations.</p> - -<p>The fabrication of pomades is very simple. The fat, -after being melted, and somewhat cooled off, is generally -vigorously worked or beaten with a wooden pestle or -spatula, until it acquires a frothy, cream-like appearance. -By this treatment the fat also gains in volume, small air -bubbles being inclosed in it. On the other hand, the fat -is stirred until cold, then perfumed and poured into pots.</p> - -<p>The following mixtures of fat may serve as suitable -foundations for white pomades:—</p> - -<p>I. Lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 2 lbs.</p> - -<p>II. Lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 3 lbs.</p> - -<p>III. Lard 7½ lbs., spermaceti 1½ lbs.</p> - -<p>IV. Castor oil 6 lbs., vaseline 1½ lbs., wax 1 lb.</p> - -<p>V. Lard 8 lbs., cocoanut oil 2 lbs.</p> - -<p>VI. Castor oil 6 lbs., spermaceti 1 lb.</p> - -<p>VII. Lard 6 lbs., cocoanut oil 3 lbs.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a></span></p> - -<p>VIII. Lard 8 lbs., wax 1 lb., cocoa butter 1 lb.</p> - -<p>IX. Pomade fat 12 lbs., soap 4 ozs., dissolved in -hot water, borax ½ drachm. This mass will stand about -¼ water.</p> - -<p>X. <i>In summer</i>: Fat 6 lbs., stearin 7 ozs.</p> - -<p><i>In winter</i>: Fat 6 lbs., stearin 4½ ozs.</p> - -<p>To either mass given under X, add and combine -thoroughly with it 14 drachms of borax dissolved in 1 -quart of water.</p> - -<p>The pomades, while still warm, are colored and finally -perfumed. For <i>perfuming</i>, different volatile oils and perfume -substances of suitable composition are used, 1 to 1½ -ozs. of perfume being generally sufficient for 2 lbs. of fat.</p> - -<p>Receipts for the best known and most popular pomades -are as follows:—</p> - -<p><i>Apple pomade.</i>—Digest for some time in the water -bath 2 lbs. of fresh apple parings with 6 lbs. of lard -and 2 lbs. of beef-tallow, press, color yellow, stir until -cold, and perfume with 1 oz. amyl valerate, commonly -called "apple oil."</p> - -<p><i>Bear's grease pomade.</i>—Perfume purified bear's grease -8 lbs., or benzoated lard 6 lbs. and beef-tallow 2 lbs., -with rose-geranium oil 2¾ ozs. and vanilla tincture 2 ozs.</p> - -<p><i>Quinine pomade No. 1.</i>—Fresh lard 6 lbs., fresh beef-tallow -2½ lbs., quinotannic acid 13 ozs., tincture of cantharides -and distilled water each 8 ozs., Peru balsam -4 ozs., rose-geranium oil 8 drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Quinine pomade No. 2.</i>—Vaseline 4 lbs., paraffin 2 -lbs., fat jasmine oil 1 lb., Peruvian bark extract ½ lb., -tannin 5¼ ozs., Peru balsam 3½ ozs., rose-geranium oil -11 drachms.</p> - -<p>Melt together the vaseline and paraffin, add the Peru<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a></span>vian -bark extract previously rubbed up with as little -water as possible, and stir in the tannin dissolved in the -volatile oils.</p> - -<p><i>Quinine pomade (imitation) No. 1.</i>—Benzoated lard -6 lbs., beef-tallow 2 lbs., colored with prepared cocoa -powder about 14 ozs., and perfumed with Peruvian -balsam 2¼ ozs., bergamot oil, citronella oil, and eau de -Cologne each 5½ drachms, and oils of cloves, lavender, -and cinnamon each 40 drops.</p> - -<p><i>Quinine pomade (imitation) No. 2.</i>—Lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow -2½ lbs., cocoa powder 15¾ ozs., Peru balsam 2¼ -ozs., cassia oil 1¾ ozs., clove oil 2¾ drachms, oil of bitter -almonds 10 drops.</p> - -<p><i>Benzoin pomade.</i>—Digest for several hours in a water -bath at 167° F. 6 lbs. of lard, 2 lbs. of beef-tallow, and -1½ lbs. of pulverized benzoin, and strain off the fat.</p> - -<p><i>Densdorf pomade.</i>—Castor oil 6 lbs., vaseline 1½ lbs., -yellow wax 1 lb., bergamot oil 2¼ ozs., lemon oil 1¼ ozs., -geranium oil 4½ drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Ice pomade No. 1.</i>—Best olive oil 6 lbs., white vaseline -and spermaceti each 1½ lbs., bergamot oil 3 ozs., bitter -almond oil 11 drachms, rose-geranium oil 8¼ drachms, -cinnamon oil 5½ drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Ice pomade No. 2.</i>—Fat almond oil 6 lbs., spermaceti -1½ lbs., bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., citronella oil 14 drachms, -palma rose oil 2¾ drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Family pomade (red).</i>—Fresh lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow -3 lbs., bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., oils of lemon, lavender, and -cinnamon each 14 drachms. Color with alkannin.</p> - -<p><i>Family pomade (white).</i>—Fresh lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow -3 lbs., lemon oil 2 ozs., sweet orange oil 1¼ ozs., bergamot -oil 1 oz.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Family pomade (rose color).</i>—Fresh lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow -3 lbs., palma-rose oil, citronella oil, and lavender -oil each 1¼ ozs. Color with alkannin.</p> - -<p><i>Family pomade (yellow).</i>—Fresh lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow -3 lbs., bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., cassia oil 14 drachms, clove -oil 8¼ drachms, thyme oil 5½ drachms. Color with -lederin or annotto.</p> - -<p><i>Family pomade (brown).</i>—Fresh lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow -3 lbs., cassia oil 1¾ ozs., caraway oil 1 oz., sweet orange -oil and clove oil each 11¼ drachms. Color brown with -cocoa powder, lederin, or umber.</p> - -<p><i>Strawberry pomade.</i>—Fresh ripe strawberries 1½ lbs., -fresh lard, 6 lbs., fresh beef-tallow 2 lbs., rose oil 5 -drops.</p> - -<p>Put the strawberries in a clean linen bag, and digest -them for some time with the fat in the water-bath. -Then moderately press the strawberries, color with -alkannin, and finally perfume.</p> - -<p><i>Fine hair pomade.</i>—Fresh lard 8 lbs., cocoanut oil -and wax each 1 lb., bergamot oil 3 ozs., lemon oil 1¼ -ozs., geranium oil 5½ drachms, musk tincture 1 drachm.<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a></p> - -<p><i>Pomade for promoting the growth of the hair.</i>—Lard -6 lbs., beef-tallow 2 lbs., tincture of cantharides 10½ ozs., -lemon oil 2½ ozs., bergamot oil 2 ozs., cinnamon oil -1½ drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Héliotrope pomade, finest quality.</i>—Lard treated with -benzoin 6 lbs., beef tallow treated with benzoin 2 lbs., -heliotropin 3¾ drachms, dissolved in a small quantity of -the fat heated to about 111° F.; neroli oil 35 drops.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Héliotrope pomade.</i>—Fresh lard 6 lbs., fresh beef -tallow 2 lbs., Peru balsam 2½ ozs., cassia oil 1½ ozs., -clove oil 8¼ drachms, artificial bitter-almond oil 1½ -drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Jasmine pomade.</i>—Benzoated lard 6 lbs., benzoated -beef tallow 2 lbs., fat jasmine oil 2⅖ lbs., rose oil 25 -drops.</p> - -<p><i>Emperor pomade.</i>—Melt together 7⅗ lbs. of fresh -olive oil, 2 lbs. of castor oil, and 2⅖ lbs. of spermaceti. -Perfume with fat jasmine oil 7 ozs., Turkish rose oil and -bergamot oil each 2¾ drachms, neroli oil 50 drops, geranium -oil 20 drops, orris-root oil 10 drops, heliotropin -½ drachm, and cumarin 1/10 drachm.</p> - -<p>Dissolve the heliotropin and cumarin in a portion of -the fat heated to 111° F., add the solution, together with -the other perfume-materials, to the fat before it congeals, -then pour the pomade into jars and allow it to -cool slowly.</p> - -<p><i>Macassar pomade.</i>—Castor oil 6 lbs., vaseline 1½ -lbs., wax 1 lb., bergamot oil 2 ozs., cassia oil and cinnamon -oil each 1 oz., rose-geranium oil 2¾ drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Portugal pomade.</i>—Fresh lard 4 lbs., white vaseline -1 lb., wax 3½ ozs., Portugal oil 2 ozs., bergamot oil 1¼ -ozs., caraway oil 2¾ drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Herb pomade.</i>—Melt together fresh lard 8 lbs., Japanese -wax and bayberry oil each 3½ ozs., improve the -color with chlorophyl, and perfume with lemon oil 14 -drachms, bergamot oil 11 drachms, clove oil 5½ drachms, -geranium oil 3¼ drachms, and a few drops of curly mint -oil.</p> - -<p><i>Lanolin pomade.</i>—Benzoated fat 4 lbs., benzoinized -olive oil and lanolin each 2 lbs., bergamot oil 3½<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</a></span> -ozs., cinnamon oil 7¼ drachms, clove oil 5½ drachms, -lavender oil 3¾ drachms, nerolin 1 drachm dissolved in -a portion of the fat heated to 111° F. Color red with -alkannin.</p> - -<p><i>Oriental pomade.</i>—Benzoated lard 6 lbs., benzoated -beef-tallow 2 lbs., bergamot oil 2 ozs., clove oil 1¼ ozs., -neroli oil 5½ drachms, musk tincture ½ drachm. Color -red with lederin.</p> - -<p><i>Paraffin ice pomade.</i>—Castor oil or olive oil 6 lbs., -paraffin 1 lb., bergamot oil 3½ ozs., palma rose oil 11¼ -drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Neroli pomade.</i>—Benzoated lard 6 lbs., benzoated -beef-tallow 2 lbs., fat jasmine oil and fat rose oil each -1¾ ozs., oil of bitter almonds 2 drops, nerolin 1½ -drachms dissolved in a small portion of the fat heated -to 111° F. Color pale yellow.</p> - -<p><i>Cheap pomade (red, yellow, white).</i>—Lard 5 lbs., beef-tallow -or cocoanut oil 2 lbs., perfumed with about 3½ ozs. -of fruit ether.</p> - -<p><i>Mignonette pomade.</i>—Benzoated lard 4 lbs., benzoated -beef-tallow and fat mignonette oil each 2 lbs., -tolu-balsam tincture 4¾ ozs. Color pale green with -chlorophyl.</p> - -<p><i>Castor oil pomade No. 1.</i>—Melt together 4 lbs. of castor -oil and 11¼ ozs. of spermaceti and perfume with bergamot -oil 2 ozs., and geranium oil 6½ drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Castor oil pomade No. 2.</i>—Castor oil and fine olive oil -each 2 lbs., yellow wax 7 ozs., bergamot oil and sweet -orange oil each 14 drachms, clove oil 8¼ drachms, -neroli oil 2¼ drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Princess pomade.</i>—Fresh lard 8 lbs., cocoa butter and -wax each 1 lb., bergamot oil 3½ ozs., lemon oil and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</a></span> -lavender oil each 14 drachms, neroli oil 6¾ drachms. -Color rose color with alkannin.</p> - -<p><i>Fine pomade.</i>—Benzoated lard 6 lbs., benzoated beef-tallow -2 lbs., lemon oil 2 ozs., sweet orange oil 1¼ ozs., -bergamot oil 1 oz. Color yellow with annotto.</p> - -<p><i>Beef-marrow pomade.</i>—Melt together 4 lbs. of lard -and 1 lb. of beef-marrow, or, 4 lbs of lard, 14 ozs. of -spermaceti, and 1¾ ozs. of yellow wax, color yellow and -perfume with lemon oil 14 drachms, bergamot oil 6¾ -drachms, and a few drops of clove oil.</p> - -<p><i>Rogers's pomade for producing a beard.</i>—Lard 7½ lbs., -yellow wax ½ lb., fine cantharides powder 10½ ozs., bergamot -oil 1¼ ozs., oils of lemon, cinnamon and lavender -each 11 drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Rose pomade.</i>—Fresh lard 6 lbs., fresh beef-tallow 2 -lbs., palma rosa oil 2¾ ozs., citronella oil 11 drachms, -alkannin for coloring 1 to 1½ ozs.</p> - -<p><i>Fine rose pomade.</i>—Fresh lard 2½ lbs., spermaceti -and fat almond oil, each 3½ ozs., rose geranium oil 1¼ -ozs., bitter almond oil 1½ ozs.</p> - -<p><i>Finest rose pomade.</i>—Fat rose oil 2⅖ lbs., spermaceti -7 ozs., white wax 3½ ozs., rose-geranium oil 1½ ozs., -rose oil and bergamot oil, each ½ drachm. Color red -with alkannin.</p> - -<p><i>Salicylic pomade.</i>—Fresh lard 7 lbs., white wax 1 lb., -fat jasmine oil 1⅖ lbs. Peru balsam 5¼ ozs., salicylic -acid 2 ozs., dissolved in alcohol 4 ozs.</p> - -<p><i>Victoria pomade.</i>—Melt together 3-1/5 lbs. of fat almond -oil and 10½ ozs. of white wax, and perfume the mixture, -when quite cooled off, with fat jasmine oil ½ lb., rose -oil and geranium oil each 1 drachm. Color rose color -with alkannin.</p> - -<p><i>Tonka pomade.</i>—Lard 7½ lbs., spermaceti ½ lb., cuma<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</a></span>rin -4½ drachms, dissolved in a small portion of the warm -fat.</p> - -<p><i>Fine vanilla pomade.</i>—Benzoated lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow -2 lbs., vanilla 2¾ drachms, dissolved in a small -portion of the warm fat.</p> - -<p><i>Vanilla pomade.</i>—Lard and vaseline each 2 lbs., wax -3½ ozs., Peruvian balsam 1⅛ ozs., bitter-almond oil ½ -drachm, cinnamon oil 20 drops.</p> - -<p><i>Violet pomade.</i>—Lard 4 lbs., vaseline 2 lbs., wax 5½ -ozs., spermaceti 1¾ ozs., fat orris-root oil 2 lbs., bergamot -oil 3¾ drachms, clove oil 2¼ drachms, cinnamon oil -¾ drachm, rose oil ½ drachm.</p> - -<p><i>Walnut pomade.</i>—Work in a mortar to a uniform paste -½ lb. of fresh green walnut-shells and 2 ozs. of alum. -Digest the paste with 2⅖ lbs. of benzoinized lard and -tallow in the water-bath until the fat appears clear. -Then strain off the fat, stir until cold, and perfume -with 1½ drachms of neroli oil and ½ drachm of rose oil.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Vaseline Pomades.</span>—Vaseline pomades consisting -neither of an animal nor of a vegetable fat, but almost -entirely of a mineral fat, form a special division of -pomades. On account of its good properties and cheapness, -vaseline, which is obtained from petroleum residues, -etc., has for several years past been much used in -the preparation of pomades. The pomades prepared -from vaseline are not only very suitable for oiling the -hair, as they never become rancid, but may also advantageously -be used as a remedy for chapped skin, -inflammation, cuts, burns, etc. For pomades odorless -vaseline has to be used, 1 lb. of it requiring about 5½ to -8½ drachms of perfume. Lederin, which has been previously -mentioned, is best suited for coloring the pomades.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</a></span> -When used for pomades vaseline, though by itself sufficient -for the purpose, frequently receives an addition of -paraffin, wax (mostly ceresin), and lard. To vaseline -pomades intended for export to warm climates, an addition -of ¼ to ⅛ceresin is required.</p> - -<p>The following mixtures give good foundations for -vaseline pomade:—</p> - -<p> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">I. Yellow or white vaseline 2 parts, paraffin 1.</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">II. Vaseline 5 parts, paraffin or ceresin 1.</span><br /> -III. Vaseline 3 parts, ceresin 1.<br /> -IV. Vaseline and lard each 10 parts, ceresin 1.<br /> -</p> - -<p>The pomades are prepared by first melting the paraffin -or ceresin and then slowly stirring in the vaseline. When -the fat commences to thicken, the perfume is added and -the pomade poured into jars or tin boxes.</p> - -<p>A few good receipts for vaseline pomades are here -given.</p> - -<p><i>Bouquet vaseline pomade.</i>—White vaseline and fresh -lard each 2 lbs., ceresin 3½ ozs., bergamot oil 1¼ ozs., -lavender oil 6¾ drachms, cinnamon oil 5½ drachms, -neroli oil 3¾ drachms, geranium oil 2¾ drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Family vaseline pomade.</i>—Pale yellow vaseline 10 lbs., -oils of bergamot and lemons each 1 oz., citronella oil -12¾ drachms, cassia oil 8¼ drachms, lavender oil 4½ -drachms, clove oil 3¾ drachms; <i>or</i>, bergamot oil 2 ozs., -palma-rose oil 1¾ ozs., lavender oil 5½ drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Lily of the valley vaseline pomade.</i>—White vaseline and -fresh lard each 2 lbs., ceresin 3½ ozs., bergamot oil 1 oz., -ylang-ylang oil 2¾ drachms, licari oil ½ drachm.</p> - -<p><i>Neroli vaseline pomade.</i>—Vaseline 10 lbs., ceresin 2 -lbs., geranium oil 1 oz., nerolin 3¾ drachms, dissolved -in a small portion of the warm fat.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Mignonette vaseline pomade.</i>—White vaseline 2 lbs., -paraffin 1 lb., bergamot oil 9 drachms, neroli oil 5½ -drachms, artificial bitter almond oil 15 drops.</p> - -<p><i>Portugal vaseline pomade.</i>—Pale yellow vaseline 10 -lbs., ceresin 3½ ozs., Portugal oil 2¾ ozs., cassia oil 1 -oz., lavender oil 5½ drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Rose vaseline pomade</i>, No. 1.—Vaseline 6 lbs., ceresin -3½ ozs., rose-geranium oil 1¼ ozs., nerolin ¾ drachm. -Colored with lederin.</p> - -<p><i>Rose vaseline pomade</i>, No. 2.—Vaseline and lard each -2 lbs., ceresin 7 ozs., geranium oil 1½ ozs., bergamot oil -5½ drachms, musk tincture ½ drachm. Color red with -alkannin.</p> - -<p><i>Fine vaseline pomade</i> (<i>yellow</i>).—Yellow vaseline and -castor oil each 2 lbs., yellow wax 7 ozs., lemon oil 1 oz., -bergamot oil 6¾ drachms, nerolin ½ drachm.</p> - -<p><i>Vaseline pomade</i> (<i>red</i>).—White vaseline 4 lbs., -paraffin or ceresin 14 ozs., palma-rose oil, citronella oil -and lavender oil each 11¼ drachms. Color red with -lederin or alkannin.</p> - -<p><i>Vaseline pomade</i> (<i>white</i>).—White vaseline 4 lbs., -paraffin 14 ozs., bergamot oil 1¼ ozs., cassia oil 2¾ -drachms, thyme oil 1½ drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Virginia vaseline pomade.</i>—Digest for some time in -the water-bath 2 lbs. of white vaseline, 2½ ozs. each of -yellow wax and pulverized benzoin, and 11 drachms of -Peru balsam. Then filter and perfume with bergamot -oil 14 drachms, citronella oil 1½ drachms.</p> - -<p>This pomade serves not only for preserving the scalp, -but is also a good remedy for tetter, cutaneous eruptions, -etc.</p> - -<p><i>Victoria vaseline pomade.</i>—White vaseline 5 lbs.,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a></span> -paraffin 1 lb., bergamot oil 1½ ozs., rose-geranium oil 1 -oz., lavender 8¼ drachms. Color red with alkannin or -lederin.</p> - -<p><i>Extra fine vaseline pomade.</i>—White vaseline 4 lbs., -ceresin 10½ ozs., bergamot oil 1⅛ ozs., lemon oil 9 -drachms, palmarosa oil 2¼ drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Stick pomades.</i>—Besides the soft, unctuous pomades -thus far treated of, we have a solid product—the so-called -stick-pomades. These pomades, which serve for -the better fastening of the hair, are brought into commerce -either as <i>wax pomades</i> or <i>resin pomades</i>, the -former being prepared from a mixture of lard, tallow, -and wax, and the latter from tallow, wax, and resin, to -which some Venetian turpentine may be added.</p> - -<p>The following mixtures give good foundations for -stick pomades:—</p> - - - -<div class="left"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="right">I.</td><td align="left">French flower pomade 4 parts, white wax 1½.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">II.</td><td align="left">Fresh beef tallow 3 parts, fresh lard 1, wax 1½.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">III.</td><td align="left">Best beef tallow 5 parts, yellow wax 1.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">IV.</td><td align="left">Tallow 10 parts, wax 2½, resin 1, Venetian turpentine ¼.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">V.</td><td align="left">Tallow 8½ parts, resin ¾, ceresin ¾.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">VI.</td><td align="left">Tallow 4 parts, pale resin 1, yellow wax ¼.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">VII.</td><td align="left">Tallow 10 parts, wax 2, pale resin 1.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">VIII.</td><td align="left">Olive oil 2 parts, pure stearin 1, yellow wax 1.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">IX.</td><td align="left">Tallow 9½ parts, ceresin ½.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">X.</td><td align="left">Best beef-tallow 10 parts, yellow wax 1½.</td></tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The usual process of manufacturing stick-pomade is -as follows: Melt the fat, wax and resin in the water-bath, -then strain the mixture and cool it off by constant -stirring until a thin film is formed upon the surface. -Then perfume and pour into tin moulds of oval, round<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span> -or square form and of various sizes. A dozen of such -tin moulds of the same size are generally soldered -together and are provided below either with a hinged -piece, or they are open. In the latter case they are -placed upon a tin support with a high edge which serves -for the reception for the fat escaping from any of the -moulds. The cold pomades are pushed out by means of -sticks of wood fitting exactly into the moulds. They -are then wrapped in tinfoil, labelled and brought into -commerce.</p> - -<p>Stick-pomades are either white, rose color, yellow, -brown or black; alkannin, lederin, umber, Frankfort -black, etc., being used as coloring substances.</p> - -<p>In the following some receipts for wax and resin -pomades are given:—</p> - -<p><i>Rose-wax pomade.</i>—Best tallow 6 lbs., best lard 2 -lbs., white-wax 3 lbs., colored with alkannin. <i>Perfume</i>: -Lemon oil 1 oz., lavender oil 14 drachms, geranium oil -11 drachms, clove oil 6¾ drachms; <i>or</i>, bergamot oil 1 -oz., oils of geranium, cassia and Portugal, each 10 -drachms, clove oil 3¼ drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Black-wax pomade.</i>—Best tallow 10 lbs., yellow wax -1½ lbs., colored with Frankfort black. <i>Perfume</i>: Bergamot -oil 3½ ozs., cassia oil 13½ drachms; <i>or</i>, bergamot -oil 3½ ozs., citronella oil 6¾ drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Blonde wax pomade.</i>—Best tallow 6 lbs., best lard 2 -lbs., white or yellow wax 3 lbs. <i>Perfume</i>: Clove oil -1¼ ozs., lemon oil, bergamot oil and Peru balsam each -14 drachms; <i>or</i>, bergamot oil 2¾ ozs., cassia oil 5½ -drachms, thyme oil 2¾ drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Brown wax pomade.</i>—Best tallow 10 lbs., yellow wax -2 lbs., colored with umber. <i>Perfume</i>: Citronella oil<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</a></span> -2 ozs., clove oil 12¼ drachms, bergamot oil 8¼ drachms, -anise-seed oil 6¾ drachms; <i>or</i>, bergamot oil 2½ ozs., cassia -oil 1¼ ozs., clove oil 5½ drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Cheap-wax pomade</i> (<i>color as desired</i>).—Best tallow 9½ -lbs., ceresin ½ lb. Perfume: Lavender oil 1¾ ozs., cassia -oil 1 oz., palma-rose oil 11 drachms; <i>or</i>, bergamot -oil 1½ ozs., palmarosa oil 1 oz., lavender oil ½ oz.</p> - -<p><i>Resin pomade No. 1.</i>—Best tallow 10 lbs., yellow wax -2 lbs., pale resin 1 lb. <i>Perfume</i>: Bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., -cassia oil 14 drachms, lavender oil 11 drachms, clove oil -8¼ drachms, thyme oil 5½ drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Resin pomade No. 2.</i>—Best tallow 10 lbs., yellow -wax 2½ lbs., pale resin 1 lb., Venetian turpentine -4 ozs. <i>Perfume</i>: Cassia oil 2¾ ozs., lavender oil 1 oz., -lemon-grass oil 11 drachms, clove oil and thyme oil each -5½ drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Cheap resin pomade.</i>—Best tallow 8½ lbs., pale resin -and pale ceresin each 13 ozs. <i>Perfume</i>: Bergamot oil -3½ ozs., cassia oil 9½ drachms, thyme oil 5 drachms; <i>or</i>, -Portugal oil 2¾ ozs., cassia oil 1 oz., lavender oil 5½ -drachms.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Hair Oils.</span>—Like pomades, hair oils are perfumed -either with volatile oils or by treatment with larger -quantities of fresh flowers. The oils obtained in the -latter manner are known as <i>Huiles antiques</i>, and are -the finest and most expensive. Vaseline oil, which is -cheap and does not become rancid, is also at present -much used as hair oil. To make the fat oils used as -hair oils more durable and to protect them from becoming -rancid, they are also treated with benzoin. For -this purpose digest for three hours, with frequent stirring, -in the water-bath 100 lbs. of the oil with 1 lb. of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</a></span> -pulverized benzoin. With the exception of alkannin -for red-colored oil and chlorophyl for herb oils, no -coloring substances are used for hair oils. About 5½ -to 8¼ drachms of perfume are required for 1 lb. of oil.</p> - -<p>The <i lang="fr">Huiles antiques</i> are obtained as follows:—</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Huile antique à la rose.</i>—Extract in the cold 1 lb. of -fresh rose leaves with 1 lb. of best olive oil, and with -the oil pressed off, extract, six times in succession, equal -quantities of fresh leaves, leaving the rose-leaves each -time in contact with the oil for 10 to 12 hours. The -oil, when sufficiently perfumed, is filtered.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Huile antique au jasmin.</i>—Extract in the manner above -given 1 lb. of fresh jasmin flowers with 1 lb. of olive oil.</p> - -<p>In the same manner the perfume of the different -flowers can be withdrawn and utilized.</p> - -<p>A number of receipts for the most popular hair oils -are here given.</p> - -<p><i>Alpine herb oil.</i>—Color slightly with chlorophyl 10 -lbs. of best quality of olive oil and perfume with peppermint -oil 2 ozs., lavender oil 1 oz., caraway oil 6½ -drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Flower hair oil.</i>—Color slightly with alkannin 10 lbs. -of benzoated olive oil of best quality, and perfume with -geranium oil 2¼ ozs., bergamot oil and lavender oil each -9 drachms, petit-grain oil 4½ drachms, and angelica oil -5 drops.</p> - -<p><i>Peruvian bark hair oil.</i>—Extract for some time 1 lb. -of pulverized Peruvian bark with 10 lbs. of strongly -heated benzoinized olive oil. Then color the oil red -with alkannin, and when cold, perfume with bergamot -oil 1¾ ozs., lemon oil 14 drachms, rose-geranium oil 2¼ -drachms, neroli oil ½ drachm, and cinnamon oil 5 drops;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</a></span> -<i>or</i>, with bergamot oil 2¼ ozs., lemon oil 1⅛ oz., geranium -oil 3¼ drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Peru hair oil.</i>—Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., Peru -balsam 3½ ozs., cassia oil 11 drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Burdock root hair oil No. 1.</i>—Digest at a moderate -heat 8 lbs. of olive oil or sesame oil with 2 lbs. of fresh -burdock roots; then pour off the oil from the roots, add -7 ozs. of castor oil, color with alkannin, and perfume -with bergamot oil 2 ozs. and palma-rose oil 1 oz.</p> - -<p><i>Burdock root hair oil No. 2.</i>—Color 10 lbs. of benzoated -olive oil pale green with chlorophyl, and perfume -with bergamot oil 2 ozs., geranium oil 1¼ ozs., -and lavender oil 11 drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Macassar hair oil No. 1.</i>—Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., -geranium oil and lemon oil each 1¼ ozs., cassia oil 14 -drachms. Color red with alkannin.</p> - -<p><i>Macassar oil No. 2.</i>—Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., -colored with alkannin, and perfumed with bergamot oil -1¾ ozs., lemon oil 1¼ ozs., cinnamon oil 1 drachm, musk -essence 1 drachm.</p> - -<p><i>Neroli hair oil.</i>—Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., nerolin -5½ drachms dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil, -rose oil 10 drops.</p> - -<p><i>Mignonette hair oil No. 1.</i>—Benzoated olive oil 10 -lbs., cassia oil 1¼ ozs., geranium oil and tolu-balsam -tincture each 11 drachms, nerolin 1 drachm, dissolved -in a small quantity of warm oil.</p> - -<p><i>Mignonette hair oil No. 2.</i>—Benzoated olive oil 4 -lbs., fat mignonette oil 3 lbs., tolu-balsam tincture -3½ ozs.</p> - -<p><i>Fine hair oil.</i>—Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., lemon -oil 1¼ ozs., bergamot oil 15¾ drachms, lavender oil 3¾<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</a></span> -drachms, neroli oil 2¾ drachms, rosemary oil 1½ -drachms, petit-grain oil 1 drachm.</p> - -<p><i>Cheap hair oil</i> (<i>red or yellow</i>).—Sesame oil or purified -colza oil 10 lbs., bergamot oil 2¼ ozs., citronella oil 1⅛ -ozs., mirbane oil 10 drachms; <i>or,</i> Portugal oil 2¾ ozs., -cassia oil 1 oz., lavender oil 5½ drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Portugal hair oil.</i>—Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., Portugal -oil 2 ozs., bergamot oil 1½ ozs., caraway oil 3¼ -drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Jasmine hair oil.</i>—Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., fat -jasmine oil 1½ lbs., bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., clove oil 11 -drachms, rose-geranium oil 4½ drachms, nerolin 1 -drachm, dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil, -thyme oil ½ drachm.</p> - -<p><i>Vaseline hair oil No. 1.</i>—White vaseline oil 8 lbs., -white olive oil 2 lbs., colored red with alkannin, bergamot -oil 1¼ ozs., lavender oil and lemon oil each 11 -drachms, neroli oil 5½ drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Vaseline hair oil No. 2.</i>—Yellow vaseline oil 8 lbs., -olive oil 2 lbs., cassia oil 1½ ozs., lemon-grass oil 1 oz., -clove oil ½ oz.</p> - -<p><i>Vanilla hair oil.</i>—Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., vanillin, -dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil, and Peru -balsam, each 5½ drachms, bergamot oil 1 drachm, musk -tincture 10 drops.</p> - -<p><i>Ylang-ylang hair oil.</i>—Benzoated olive oil 5 lbs., -ylang-ylang oil 2 drachms, rose oil 1 drachm, neroli oil -10 drops.</p> - -<p><i>Philocome hair oil.</i>—Melt together benzoated olive -oil and yellow wax each 2 lbs., and when about half -cold, add fat orris-root oil and fat jasmine oil, each 1½ -lbs., rose-geranium oil 1 drachm, and stir until cold.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Sultana hair oil.</i>—Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., -colored red with alkannin, bergamot oil 1½ ozs., lavender -oil 8 drachms, cinnamon oil 7 drachms, neroli oil 5½ -drachms, geranium oil 3¼ drachms, musk tincture 1 -drachm.</p> - -<p><i>Rose hair oil.</i>—Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., colored -pale red with alkannin, geranium oil 2 ozs., bergamot -oil 1 oz., cassia oil 14 drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Tonka hair oil.</i>—Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., cumarin -10 drachms, dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil.</p> - -<p><i>Violet hair oil.</i>—Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., fat -orris-root oil 3 lbs., bergamot oil 6½ drachms, clove oil -3¼ drachms, cinnamon oil 1 drachm, rose oil ½ drachm.</p> - -<p><i>Victoria hair oil.</i>—Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., slightly -colored with alkannin, palma-rose oil, lavender oil, and -citronella oil each 1 oz., musk tincture 1½ drachms.</p> - -<p><i>Cheap hair oil No. 1.</i>—Sunflower oil 500 drachms, -bergamot oil 3, rosemary oil 1, lemon oil 1, neroli and -thyme oil each ½.</p> - -<p><i>Cheap hair oil No. 2.</i>—Sunflower oil 500 drachms, -lemon oil 2, rosemary oil 3, lavender oil 5, geranium -oil 1, musk tincture ¼, thyme oil 1.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Bandolines.</span>—Bandolines are mucilaginous liquids, -and are prepared from substances forming mucilage, -such as gum-tragacanth, gum-arabic, Japanese gelatine, -quince seeds, flaxseed, etc. Gum-arabic adhering very -firmly, its use, however, cannot be recommended. The -substances above mentioned are heated with water until -the mucilaginous matter is extracted. The latter is then -strained through a cloth, and the mucilaginous, thick, -transparent liquid thus obtained perfumed. Volatile<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</a></span> -oils dissolving with difficulty in the liquid, an <i>Extrait</i> is -generally used for perfuming, or an aromatic water for -dissolving the gums. If the bandoline is to be colored, -an ammoniacal carmine solution is to be used. Aniline -colors should not be employed for the purpose, since -they precipitate upon the scalp and hair, even if only -traces of them are present.</p> - -<p>Bandolines are not very durable; their keeping properties -may, however, be improved by the addition of -benzoic or boric acid.</p> - -<p><i>Rose bandoline.</i>—Gum-tragacanth 1 lb., rose water -7 lbs.</p> - -<p>Bring the pulverized gum-tragacanth into a suitable -earthenware or enamelled vessel, pour the rose water over -it, and let it stand in a right warm place until by the -swelling of the gum a thick mucilage is formed. If -the latter is to remain white, it is first strained through -a coarse linen cloth and then through a finer one; if, -however, the bandoline is to be rose color, triturate in a -mortar 1 to 1½ drachms of best carmine with as little -ammonia as possible, and distribute this coloring matter -in the mucilage. For the reception of the bandoline -jars with a sufficiently wide mouth for the index finger -to reach to the bottom are best.</p> - -<p><i>Almond bandoline.</i>—Allow 5 lbs. of rose water and -1¼ ozs. of quince seed to stand, with frequent shaking, -for 24 hours. Then strain and perfume with 2 drachms -of bitter almond oil.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Brilliantine.</span>—Brilliantine is very popular for giving -lustre to the hair of the head and the beard, and in -fact, if correctly prepared, it has many advantages, since, -owing to its composition, it considerably decreases, even<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</a></span> -if it does not entirely prevent, the formation of the annoying -dandruff.</p> - -<p><i>Flower brilliantine No. 1.</i>—Chemically pure glycerin -1½ ozs., alcoholic extract No. 2 from French-flower -pomade No. 24 10½ ozs., French <i lang="fr">huile antique</i> as much -as required.</p> - -<p>Vigorously shake the glycerin and alcoholic pomade -extract in a glass flask until a uniform fluid is formed, -which should be clear as water. To give it, however, -an oily appearance, carefully mix with it a little sanders-wood -tincture and turmeric tincture. Fill the -brilliantine glasses half full with the above mixture and -fill up the glasses with French <i lang="fr">huile antique</i> of the same -flower-perfume as the respective alcoholic flower-pomade -extract, but do not shake, this being done only -when used.</p> - -<p>Owing to the content of glycerin, which, as well -known, is non-volatile, the consumption of this brilliantine -is very economical, while it is made very agreeable -by the fine French flower perfumes.</p> - -<p>If it is desired to prepare the brilliantine at less cost, -pure alcohol may be substituted for the pomade extract -and any perfumed hair oil for the French <i lang="fr">huile antique</i>.</p> - -<p><i>Brilliantine No. 2.</i>—For brilliantine of quality II, the -glasses are first filled half full with perfumed hair oil -and then filled up with non-perfumed alcohol slightly -colored with sanders-wood tincture or turmeric tincture. -Glycerin is not used, and, hence, in this case the oil will -be on the bottom and the alcohol, being lighter, on top.</p> - -<p>This brilliantine, containing no glycerin, is not so -economical as the preceding. It evaporates quite rapidly -and sometimes makes the hair hard, especially that of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[Pg 307]</a></span> -persons having naturally dry hair. However, this second -quality is also quite popular and the perfumer must satisfy -the demands of his customers as much as possible.</p> - -<p><i>Brilliantine No. 3.</i>—Castor oil 10 lbs., pure alcohol 5 -lbs., Portugal oil 7 ozs., clove oil 1¾ ozs., petit-grain oil -1 oz., cassia oil 1 oz., citronella oil 11 drachms.</p> - -<p>Mix the alcohol and castor oil in a glass-flask, then add -the volatile oils and shake vigorously. If the castor oil -is pure and genuine, it forms an intimate mixture with -the alcohol; if, on the other hand, traces of oil appear -on the surface of the fluid, the castor oil is adulterated -with other fat oils and unsuitable for this purpose. The -castor oil should also be as fresh as possible and, under -no conditions, rancid.</p> - -<p>If this brilliantine is desired of a somewhat yellowish -color, the object may be attained by the addition of -sanders-wood tincture or turmeric tincture.</p> - -<p>That this brilliantine is of an inferior quality is shown -by its composition. It has the further disadvantage -that it plasters the hair, especially when the castor oil -becomes old. However, there are consumers with -whom this quality is quite popular.</p> - -<p>The following formulas for brilliantine are taken from -various sources:—</p> - -<p>I. Veal fat 4 ozs., spermaceti 2 ozs., castor oil 12 ozs., -oil of bitter almonds 1 drop, oil of cloves 10 drops, oil -of bergamot 20 drops. Melt together the first three -ingredients, and add the perfumes when nearly cold.</p> - -<p>II. Almond oil 2½ lbs., spermaceti ½ lb., oil of lemon -3 ozs. Melt the spermaceti at a low temperature; add -the oil and heat until all flakes disappear. Let the jars<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</a></span> -into which it is to be poured be warm, and then cool as -slowly as possible to insure good crystals.</p> - -<p>The following, although somewhat peculiar, is offered -as a good brilliantine:—</p> - -<p>III. Honey 1 fluid oz., glycerin and Cologne water -each ½ fluid oz., alcohol 2 fluid ozs. Mix.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Hair Tonics.</span>—Hair tonics serve for cleansing and -invigorating the scalp and for preventing the hair from -falling out. Glycerin having a beneficial effect upon the -scalp is much used as one of the constituents. The tonics -also frequently contain ingredients said to promote the -growth of the hair, such as Peruvian bark extract, quinine, -tincture of cantharides, and substances containing -tannin. Hair tonics containing tincture of cantharides -should, however, not be too frequently used, as otherwise -an excessive stimulation of the scalp might be the -result, which would be more injurious than beneficial to -the growth of the hair.</p> - -<p>Some receipts for hair tonics are here given.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Eau Athénienne.</i>—Alcohol of best quality 8 quarts, -vanilla tincture 1¼ lb., cumarin tincture 7 ozs., bergamot -oil 3½ ozs., rose-geranium oil 11 drachms, clove oil 14 -drachms.</p> - -<p>After 8 days, add 1 quart of rose water and mix -thoroughly.</p> - -<p><i>Florida water No. 1.</i>—Alcohol 50 quarts, best lavender -oil 3 lbs., bergamot oil 1 lb., African rose-geranium -oil ½ lb., tinctures of sanders-wood and turmeric each -11 drachms, distilled water 16 quarts.</p> - -<p>The alcohol, volatile oils, and tinctures are intimately -mixed in a glass balloon, then allowed to stand two to -three weeks when the distilled water is added and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[Pg 309]</a></span> -whole vigorously agitated. After adding the water the -fluid becomes very turbid and requires several weeks to -clarify. It is then filtered through paper. If, notwithstanding -filtering, it should remain somewhat turbid, -bring a small quantity of carbonate of magnesia upon -the filter.</p> - -<p><i>Florida water No. 2.</i>—Alcohol 25 quarts, lavender oil -7 ozs., palmarosa oil 8 ozs., Portugal oil and red thyme -oil each 3½ ozs., tinctures of sanders-wood and turmeric -each 5½ drachms, rain-water 10 quarts.</p> - -<p>Proceed in the same manner as given for Florida -water No. 1.</p> - -<p><i>Eau de Cologne hair tonic.</i>—Alcohol 8 quarts, oils -of bergamot and lemons each 1¼ ozs., lavender oil 11 -drachms, rosemary oil 5½ drachms, glycerin of 28° B. -3½ ozs. After 8 days add 7 ozs. of bicarbonate of soda -dissolved in 2½ quarts of distilled water.</p> - -<p><i>Eau de quinine.</i>—Alcohol of best quality 20 quarts, -tinctures of gall-nuts and Peruvian bark each 2 quarts, -vanilla tincture 1 quart, bergamot oil 7 ozs., African -rose-geranium oil 3½ ozs., clove oil 14 drachms, glycerin -of 28° B. 3 lbs., Panama wood 4 lbs., boiled with filtered -rain-water 12 quarts, bicarbonate of soda 1 lb. dissolved -in 1 quart of water.</p> - -<p>The alcohol, tinctures, and volatile oils are brought -into a glass balloon and after vigorous agitation allowed -to stand 8 days for the volatile oils to dissolve. The -decoction of Panama wood is then added, next the -bicarbonate of soda solution, and finally the whole is -thoroughly agitated. The Panama-wood decoction -should not be added while hot, as otherwise the glass<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[Pg 310]</a></span> -balloon might burst. Color the water with cochineal -tincture or henna tincture.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Eau de quinine</i> (<i>imitation</i>).—Alcohol 25 quarts, vanilla -tincture No. 2, 2 quarts, Portugal oil 1 lb., palmarosa -oil 8 ozs., clove oil 3½ ozs., glycerin of 28° B. 3 lbs., -Panama wood 3 lbs., boiled in rain-water 20 quarts, -bicarbonate of soda 1 lb., dissolved in rain-water 1 -quart. Proceed in the manner given for genuine <i lang="fr">Eau -de quinine</i>. Color with henna tincture.</p> - -<p><i>Honey water.</i>—Alcohol of best quality 8 quarts, orris-root -tincture 1 quart, angelica tincture 1 lb., tonka-bean -extract 1¾ ozs., turmeric tincture, as coloring matter, 5½ -drachms, Portugal oil 7¾ ozs., lemon oil 1¾ ozs., citronella -oil 5½ drachms. After 8 days add 1 liter of -orange-flower water.</p> - -<p><i>Glycerin hair tonic.</i>—Glycerin of 28° B. 1 quart, -borax 1 oz., rose water 2 quarts, alcohol 4 ozs., oils of -petit-grain and cloves each 2 drachms, rosemary oil 4 -drachms.</p> - -<p>Dissolve the borax in the water, the perfume in the -alcohol, and mix all together. It should be clear. Color -yellow, if desired, with saffron tincture.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Eau lustral</i> (<i>hair restorative</i>).—Castor oil 2 quarts, linseed -oil and tincture of cantharides each 4 ozs., alcohol -13 quarts, bergamot oil 2 ozs., lemon oil 1 oz., clove oil -½ oz., neroli oil 2 drachms.</p> - -<p>Mix the two fat oils and dissolve them in the alcohol -by agitation. Then add the tincture of cantharides and -the perfumes, and color red with cochineal tincture or -henna tincture.</p> - -<p><i>Tea hair tonic.</i>—Bay rum 2 ozs., glycerin 2 ozs., alcohol -2 ozs., infusion of black tea 10 ozs. Mix and per<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[Pg 311]</a></span>fume -to suit. The tea infusion should be made very -strong, say 1 oz. of best tea (best quality) to 10 ozs. of -boiling water, let stand till cool, strain, and add the -other ingredients.</p> - -<p><i>Locock's lotion for the hair.</i>—Expressed oil of nutmeg -5 fluid ozs., olive oil and stronger water of ammonia -each 20 fluid ozs., spirit of rosemary 40 fluid ozs., rose -water sufficient to make 20 pints. The above should -be mixed with skill, best by gradually pouring the combined -oils, with constant stirring, into the stronger water -of ammonia, previously diluted with the spirit, and afterwards -slowly incorporating the rose water.</p> - -<p><i>Shampoo lotion.</i>—New England rum 1 pint, bay rum -12 ozs., glycerin 2 ozs., carbonate of ammonium 1 oz., -borax 2 ozs.</p> - -<p><i>Shampoo liquid.</i>—The readiest agent to produce a good -lather upon the hair of the head is a solution of potassa -or soda or a dilute water of ammonia. The latter, however, -owing to its penetrating odor, is not usually liked.</p> - -<p>The following combinations will be found serviceable:—</p> - -<p>I. Solution of potassa 4 fluid ozs., borax 1 oz., bay -rum ½ fluid oz., tincture of quillaga ½ fluid oz., water -enough to make 16 fluid ozs. This may be scented -according to taste.</p> - -<p>II. Fresh eggs 3, spirit of soap 1½ fluid ozs., carbonate -of potassium 160 grains, water of ammonia 160 -drops, oil-sugar of cumarin 8 grains, oils of rose and -bergamot each 2 drops, French geranium oil 1 drop, -almond oil 1 drop, rose water 27 fluid ozs. Thoroughly -beat the 3 eggs, and then dilute with the rose water. -Then add the other ingredients.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">[Pg 312]</a></span></p> - -<p>Oil-sugar of cumarin is prepared by triturating 1 part -of cumarin with 999 parts of sugar of milk.</p> - -<p><i>Dandruff cures.</i>—I. Ointment of nitrate of mercury -1 drachm, petrolatum 7 drachms. Mix. Cut the hair -short and keep well brushed, and apply the ointment -every night for a fortnight.</p> - -<p>II. Red oxide of mercury 10 grains, ammoniated -mercury 10 grains, petrolatum 1 oz. Mix, and apply -every night.</p> - -<p>III. Corrosive sublimate 30 grains, glycerin 5 fluid -ozs., Cologne water 5 fluid ozs., water sufficient to make -15 fluid ozs. Mix to make lotion No. 1.</p> - -<p>Beta naphthol 120 grains, alcohol 20 fluid ozs. Mix -to make lotion No. 2.</p> - -<p>Salicylic acid 120 grains, compound tincture of benzoin -20 fluid drachms, olive oil 10 fluid ozs. Mix to -make lotion No. 3.</p> - -<p>Wash the head thoroughly with terebene soap, rinse -well, and dry thoroughly; then rub in some of solution -No. 1 and allow to dry, then use No. 2 in a like manner, -and finally apply No. 3. The treatment should be carried -out daily for a month, and then every alternate day for a -fortnight. The dandruff disappears in a few days, and -the hair in a short time becomes vigorous and supple.</p> - -<p><i>Dandruff lotion.</i>—Chloral hydrate 1 drachm, glycerin -4 drachms, bay rum 8 ozs.</p> - -<p><i>Bay rum.</i>—Genuine bay rum, as brought into commerce -from St. Thomas, is said to be prepared by twice -distilling a fine quality of rum with the leaves and berries -of <i>Myrcia acris</i> or the bayberry tree. The berries are -much richer in volatile oil than the leaves, but on account -of the height of the trees, the gathering of the berries<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">[Pg 313]</a></span> -is connected with so many difficulties and the harvest so -scanty, that the manufacturers prefer to mix leaves and -berries in a certain proportion.</p> - -<p>The following directions for preparing bay rum are -given in Schimmel & Co.'s reports:—</p> - -<p>I. Alcohol of 95 per cent. 4 lbs., water 4 lbs., bay oil -5½ drachms, pimento oil 2¼ drachms, clove oil 10 drops. -Mix, let stand for several days and filter.</p> - -<p>II. Alcohol of 95 per cent. 4 lbs., bay oil 15 -drachms.</p> - -<p>Mix, let stand for 2 weeks, and then add 8 lbs. of best -Jamaica rum. This bay rum is said to be equal to the -imported.</p> - -<p>Another receipt for bay rum is as follows:—</p> - -<p>III. Alcohol of 95 per cent. 1 quart, rectified spirit -of 60 per cent. 14 quarts, bay oil 1 oz., loaf sugar 4 ozs.</p> - -<p>Beat up the sugar with the oil and add the alcohol; -then the spirit, and finally filter.</p> - -<p>Mierzinski gives the following formulæ for bay -rum:—</p> - -<p>IV. Alcohol 8 ozs., oil of bay 40 drops, oil of mace -1 grain, oil of orange 20 drops, Jamaica rum 1 oz., -water enough to make 16 ozs. Digest 2 or 3 weeks, and -filter through magnesia.</p> - -<p>V. Alcohol 8 ozs., oil of bay 2 drachms, oil of cloves -1 drop, mace 20 grains, water warmed to 80° F. to -make 12 ozs. Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, digest -the mace in the solution for a few days, filter and add -the water. The whole is allowed to stand, with occasional -agitation, for several days, and filtered through -magnesia.</p> - -<p>VI. Jamaica rum 36 ozs., 95 per cent. alcohol 36 ozs.,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[Pg 314]</a></span> -oil of bay ½ oz., oil of pimento 1 drop, acetic ether 4 -drops. Allow to stand at least 3 weeks before using.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Hair Dyes.</span>—The requirements of a good hair-dye -are that it can be readily applied, that it contains no injurious -substances, and that the coloration be as natural -and durable as possible. These demands are difficult to -fulfil, and it cannot be said that there is one of the -ordinary hair dyes which in every respect comes up to -them. Black hair dyes give the most natural coloration, -but the peculiar shade of blue-black hair cannot -be imitated. The medium colors, light brown and -blonde, are the least natural. Most dyes allow of rapid -coloration, though, in order to make the deception more -complete, a gradual coloration is by many persons preferred. -Such gradual, though only very slightly darker -coloration, is attained by the use of hair oils and certain -animal fats containing a slight content of sulphur -or iron, such as freshly expressed egg oil and neat's-foot -oil. It was formerly believed that egg oil, if used in -time, would even prevent the hair from turning gray. -The gradual darkening of the hair may also be effected -by agents, which are converted into colored combinations -only by the atmospheric oxygen or the content of -sulphur in the hair, such as extract from nut shells, -tannin, pyrogallic acid and many metals, the latter -chiefly in the form of pomades or hair oil. Dilute acids -used for some time make the hair somewhat lighter. -Mothers wishing to keep the hair of their children -blonde, avoid oils, and frequently wash the heads of the -children with vinegar or lemon juice. No coloration is, -however, durable; it becomes in the course of time<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">[Pg 315]</a></span> -gradually weaker, and the new growth of hair always -requires after-coloration.</p> - -<p>For dyeing the hair metallic salts are chiefly employed. -Owing to their poisonous action the use of <i>lead salts</i> -for the purpose is prohibited in some countries, for -instance, in Germany and Austria. <i>Silver</i> is used in -the form of <i>nitrate of silver</i> (lunar caustic). In the -presence of organic substances, as well as under the influence -of light, this combination is reduced, metallic -silver in small black grains being separated. Silver -salts also give a black precipitate of silver sulphide with -sulphuretted hydrogen. By simply moistening the hair -with silver solution they become brown to brown-black, -the coloration appearing more rapidly by previously -treating the hair with pyrogallic acid, or, after the application -of the silver solution, with sulphydrate of -sodium or potassium. The colorations produced with -nitrate of silver are very durable, but, if not dyed again -for some time, the hair acquires a greenish or reddish -color, this being especially the case if they were not -sufficiently freed from fat before dyeing. For freeing -the hair from fat, wash the hair with a mixture of 1 part -spirit of sal ammonia in 10 parts of brandy, and dry -carefully.</p> - -<p><i>Copper salts</i> with certain substances, such as potassium -ferrocyanide solution, potassium sulphydrate, calcium -sulphydrate, and pyrogallic acid give dark-brown colorations. -Of the copper salts, the sulphate in ammoniacal -solution is most frequently employed, though occasionally -also the chloride. These salts give a beautiful -brown color to the hair. Small quantities of copper salt -are also frequently added to the actual black dyes; the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">[Pg 316]</a></span> -hair by this means acquiring a brown-black, instead of a -deep black color.</p> - -<p>All the <i>iron salts</i>, with the exception of the chloride, -may be used for dyeing the hair. Soluble iron salts by -themselves make the hair somewhat darker, but this -slow, natural process is not relied on, and a second substance -forming dark colored combinations with the iron, -such as sulphur, tannin, or pyrogallic acid, is, as a rule, -employed. To this class belongs a <i>Turkish hair dye</i>, -which, according to X. Landerer, is prepared as follows: -Gall-nuts converted to a fine powder are mixed with oil -and roasted in a pan until no more empyreumatic vapors -and odor are evolved. The black powder thus obtained -is made into a paste with water, and into it is stirred a -finely pulverized mass prepared from ferrous oxide, -copper, and antimony, the result being a deep black -mass. This dye is called <i>Rastikopetra</i> (eyebrow-stone). -It is one of the Oriental cosmetics used by -both men and women.</p> - -<p><i>Potassium permanganate solution</i> is reduced by organic -substances, peroxide of manganese being formed. -A concentrated solution of this salt imparts to the hair -and skin an intense brown color, which, however, is not -very durable, and requires frequent renewing.</p> - -<p><i>Pyrogallic acid</i> may be used for darkening the hair, -not only in combination with metallic substances, but -also by itself, or with alkalies. Hair moistened with -pyrogallic acid becomes under the influence of light and -air dark gray to blackish. However, the color is not -handsome, and appears only in the course of weeks. In -connection with alkalies, pyrogallic acid produces a red-brown -to black-brown coloration.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">[Pg 317]</a></span></p> - -<p>Under the name of <i>Kohol</i>, an extremely fine powder, -consisting of black sulphide of antimony, is used in -Egypt by all classes for blackening the edges of the eyelids -and the eyebrows.</p> - -<p>A hair dye, much used in the Orient, is <i>henna</i>, the -dried and pulverized leaves of <i>Lawsonia inermis</i>. By -the women this powder is used for coloring the hair and -nails red-brown. In the Turkish sweating baths the -attendants scatter the henna upon the hair of the women -and tie it upon the finger nails. The women then frequently -remain for hours in the steam bath, whereby the -powdered henna is converted into an extract-like mass -which colors hair and nails red-brown. It is said that -henna even colors the coal-black hair of the Arabs red-brown, -which is considered beautiful. Before treating -with henna, the hair must be freed from fat with soap -or fuller's earth.</p> - -<p>Hair dyed red with henna acquires a beautiful black -color when subsequently treated with indigo, this mode -of dyeing black being much in vogue in the Orient. -The process is as follows: The hair, being freed from -fat with soap, is divided into separate strands and -anointed with quite a stiff paste prepared from pulverized -henna and lukewarm water. The hair, after being -smoothed, is allowed to remain for at least one hour in -contact with the paste, and is then rinsed off with lukewarm -water. Being slightly dried, it is then in the -same manner anointed with a paste prepared from indigo -and water, and allowed to remain in contact with it for -one hour. The hairs which were colored orange-red by -the henna, now have a greenish-black appearance, but -by the oxidation of the indigo in a short time acquire an<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">[Pg 318]</a></span> -intensely blue-black color, which is extraordinarily -durable, the hair only after several months requiring to -be again dyed.</p> - -<p>The freshly expressed juice and the fresh parenchyma -of <i>green walnut shells</i>, or of unripe walnuts, gradually -color light or gray hair dark to nut-brown. The coloring -substance is not thoroughly known, but is very -likely a phloroglucide; it is extracted by fats and alcohol, -but, according to Paschkis, is no longer effective in such -solution. This, however, is not correct in regard to the -alcoholic extract, because the extract from ordinary walnut -shells, prepared by mixing the expressed juice of -green walnut shells with 10 parts of alcohol, allowing -the mixture to stand for ten days, and then filtering, -also colors brown.</p> - -<p><i>Peroxide of hydrogen</i> bleaches organic substances, -dark or red hair being thereby changed to reddish-yellow -or pale blonde. The coloration, or rather bleaching, -does not appear at once, but is complete only after some -time. The peroxide of hydrogen only exists in aqueous -solution, which should be quite concentrated (15 to 20 -per cent.). Owing to the mode of preparation, the solution -always contains some nitric acid and readily decomposes, -when exposed to light and air, whereby it -becomes useless.</p> - -<p>In the following, a number of formulæ for hair-dyes -are given. According to their constitution, they may -be divided into two groups, viz: A. Dyes which contain -the coloring matter in a finished state; and, B. -Dyes which are formed upon the hair by a chemical -process. The dye should first be applied in a dilute -state, and the application repeated in case the desired<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">[Pg 319]</a></span> -shade is not produced, since by the use of the dye in a -concentrated form a shade not resembling any natural -color might be obtained, hair which is to be colored -black acquiring, for instance, a metallic blue-black -lustre.</p> - - -<p>A. <span class="smcap">Single Hair Dyes.</span> <i>Teinture Orientale (Karsi).</i>—Ambergris -2¾ drachms, gall-nuts 4 lbs., pulverized iron -1¾ ozs., pulverized copper 1 drachm, musk 1 drachm. -Convert the gall-nuts to a fine powder, and roast the -powder in an iron pan, stirring constantly until it is -dark brown to blackish. Rub the powder together -with the metallic powders, and the perfume substances -and keep the mixture in a damp place. For use moisten -some of the powder upon the hand and apply to the -hair, rubbing it in vigorously. In a few days the hair -acquires a deep black, quite natural color. In roasting, -the tannin-substances contained in the gall-nuts are converted -into gallic and pyrogallic acids, which yield with -the metals combinations of a deep black color, and are -even readily converted into black-brown bodies (humin -bodies).</p> - -<p><i>Teinture Chinoise (Kohol).</i>—Gum-arabic 1 oz., Chinese -ink 1¾ ozs., rose-water 1 quart. Reduce the gum-arabic -and Chinese ink to fine powder, and triturate -the powder in small quantities with rose water until a -homogeneous black fluid free from grains is formed. -Collect this fluid in a bottle and mix it with the remaining -rose water. Kohol is only suitable for persons -with black hair and is especially used for dyeing the eyebrows. -The coloring matter of this preparation consisting -only of carbon in a very finely divided state, it -is perfectly harmless.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">[Pg 320]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Potassium permanganate hair dye.</i>—Potassium permanganate -5 ozs., distilled water 2 quarts. Crystallized -potassium permanganate dissolves with great ease in -water to a deep violet fluid. By bringing the solution -in contact with an organic substance—paper, linen, skin, -horn, hair—it rapidly discolors, imparting to the substances -a brown color, which originates from peroxide of -manganese. Free the hair from fat by washing, and -apply the dilute solution with a soft brush. The color -appears immediately, and according to the degree of -dilution, all shades of color from blonde to darkest -brown may be produced with this perfectly harmless -agent. It may, of course, also be used for dyeing the -beard.</p> - -<p><i>Bismuth hair dye.</i>—Subnitrate of bismuth 10 parts, -10 per cent. solution of potassa and citric acid each a -sufficient quantity, glycerin 150 parts, water sufficient -to make 300 parts. Intimately mix the subnitrate of -bismuth and the glycerin by trituration, then heat the -mixture in a water-bath, and gradually add to it solution -of potassa, under constant stirring, until the bismuth -salt is dissolved. Next add a concentrated solution -of citric acid until only a slight alkalinity remains. -Finally add enough water to make 300 parts, and perfume -according to preference.</p> - -<p><i>Walnut hair dye.</i>—Bruise 40 parts of fresh green -walnut peel with 5 parts of alum, digest with 200 parts -of olive oil until all moisture has been dissipated, strain -and perfume the oil according to preference.</p> - -<p><i>Pyrogallic hair stain.</i>—Pyrogallic acid ½ oz., water 3 -ozs., alcohol 1 oz. This liquid gives a dark brown -color.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">[Pg 321]</a></span></p> - -<p>B. <span class="smcap">Double Hair Dyes.</span>—These and similar hair -dyes consist of two preparations, kept in bottles I and II. -The bottle II, which serves for the reception of the silver -preparation, must be of blue or black glass, since silver -salts are decomposed by light. For use, pour some of -the fluid in bottle I into a cup, and moisten the hair -with it by means of a soft brush. Then pour the fluid -in bottle II into another cup, and apply it with another -brush.</p> - -<p><i>For dyeing brown.</i> I (in the white bottle).—Liver of -sulphur 7 ozs., alcohol 1 quart. II (in the dark bottle). -Nitrate of silver 4 ozs., distilled water 1 quart.</p> - -<p><i>For dyeing black.</i> I (in the white bottle).—Liver of -sulphur 8 ozs., alcohol 1 quart. II (in the dark bottle).—Nitrate -of silver 5 ozs., distilled water 1 quart.</p> - -<p>Liver of sulphur is a leather-brown mass, readily -soluble in water. The solution has to be filtered before -it is brought into the bottles. By bringing the solutions -together black sulphide of silver is formed, which effects -the dark coloration of the hair. After using the dye, a -disagreeable odor of stale eggs adheres to the hair, which -is, however, readily removed by washing.</p> - -<p>The silver hair dyes may also be made by preparing -the fluid in bottle II as follows: Add drop by drop water -of ammonia to the silver nitrate, kept constantly agitated -until the precipitate formed is redissolved.</p> - -<p><i>Tannin hair dye.</i> I (in the white bottle).—Pulverized -gall-nuts 14 ozs., water 16 ozs., rose water 16 ozs. Boil -the gall-nuts in the water, strain the boiling fluid through -a close cloth into the rose water, and bring the fluid thus -obtained, while still hot, into the bottles, which should be -immediately closed. (It is absolutely necessary to bring<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">[Pg 322]</a></span> -the fluid hot into the bottles, as otherwise mould is readily -formed.) II (in the dark bottle).—Nitrate of silver 5 -ozs., distilled water 1 quart. Add water of ammonia to -the silver solution until the precipitate at first formed is -redissolved.</p> - -<p><i>Melanogène.</i> I (in the dark bottle).—Nitrate of silver -5½ drachms, distilled water 2¾ ozs., water of ammonia -1 oz. II (in the white bottle).—Pyrogallic acid ½ -drachm, 40 per cent. spirit of wine 17 ozs.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Eau d'Afrique.</i> I (in the dark bottle).—Nitrate of -silver 1½ drachms, distilled water 3½ ozs. II (in the -white bottle).—Sodium sulphide 4½ drachms, distilled -water 3½ ozs.</p> - -<p><i>Krinochrom.</i> I (in the white bottle).—Pyrogallic -acid 5½ drachms, distilled water 6¼ ozs., alcohol 5½ ozs. -II (in the dark bottle). Nitrate of silver 6¾ drachms, -water of ammonia 2 ozs., distilled water 10½ ozs.</p> - -<p><i>Copper hair dye.</i> I (in the white bottle).—Potassium -ferrocyanide (yellow prussiate of potash) 7 ozs., distilled -water 1 quart. II (in the dark bottle).—Cupric -sulphate (blue vitriol) 7 ozs., distilled water 1 quart. -Add to the cupric sulphate solution water of ammonia -until the pale blue precipitate at first formed is dissolved -to a beautiful dark blue fluid. This hair dye gives a dark -brown color, but great care has to be exercised in its -use, the yellow prussiate of potash being very poisonous.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Depilatories.</span>—While the number of agents for promoting -the growth of the hair is a very small one, and -their efficacy not above doubt, there are, on the other -hand, quite a number of very effective agents for -the removal of hair, sulphur combinations being most -frequently used for the purpose. <i>Rhusma</i> is a depila<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323">[Pg 323]</a></span>tory -which has long been known, and is still almost -exclusively used in the Orient. It consists of 1 part -orpiment and 6 parts of lime slaked to a powder. Mix -intimately by passing the ingredients through a sieve, -and preserve the mixture in tightly-closed vessels. For -use, stir some of the powder to a paste with water, and -apply it to the place upon which the hairs are to be -destroyed. As soon as the layer of paste begins to dry -remove it with a thin shaving of wood. Owing to the -energetic action of this depilatory upon the skin, ladies -are advised not to use it for the face.</p> - -<p>Combinations of sulphur with the alkalies and alkaline -earths are much used as depilatories. Of these, -<i>sodium sulphydrate</i>, however, should never be used, without -the advice of a physician, as it acts very energetically -upon the skin, and frequently leaves scars behind. <i>Calcium -sulphide</i> is contained in Boettger's depilatory. It -is usually prepared by heating at a low red heat in a -securely-closed crucible an intimate mixture of 100 -parts of finely-powdered quicklime with 90 parts of -precipitated sulphur. Of the calcium sulphide thus obtained, -mix 1 lb. with 8 ozs. of starch and 7 drachms of -lemon oil. Apply the paste to the place upon which -the hairs are to be destroyed, allowing it to remain 20 -to 30 seconds. The action of <i>barium sulphide</i>, which -is frequently used as a depilatory, is much less energetic -than that of calcium sulphide. It is, for instance, a -constituent of Bartholow's depilatory, which consists of -barium sulphide 1 part, caustic lime 1 part, and starch -2 parts, made into a paste with alcohol.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_324" id="Page_324">[Pg 324]</a></span></p> - - - - -<div class="chapter"><h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII.</a></h2></div> - -<p class="subh">COSMETICS.</p> - - -<p>Under this heading will be considered toilet vinegars, -washes, perfumed powders, pastes, skin pomades, as well -as paints.</p> - -<p>The fabrication of cosmetics is an important branch -of perfumery. The materials used for the purpose -should be selected and of good quality even for cheap -articles, which are, of course, also represented in the following -receipts.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Skin Cosmetics.</span>—<i>Toilet vinegars.</i>—Perfumed vinegars, -when added to wash water, have a refreshing effect -and are also used as fumigating agents by mixing them -with water in a dish and placing the latter in the room.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Vinaigre de Bully.</i>—Alcohol of best quality 10 quarts, -tinctures of orris root, tolu balsam, benzoin and storax, -each 1 lb., olibanum tincture ½ lb., vanilla tincture and -best lavender oil 5¼ ozs., bergamot oil and lemon oil -each 4¼ ozs., acetic acid 2 lbs.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Vinaigre de toilette à la rose.</i>—Alcohol of best quality -5 quarts, benzoin tincture 1 lb., angelica tincture 8 ozs., -<i lang="fr">extrait rose</i> No. 1, 1 lb., French rose geranium oil 3½ -ozs., acetic acid 14 ozs.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Vinaigre de toilette à la violette.</i>—Alcohol of best -quality 5 quarts, orris-root tincture 2 quarts, tinctures -of benzoin and storax each 7 ozs., bergamot oil 2½ ozs., -liquid orris-root oil<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> 11 drachms, acetic acid 1 lb.</p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">[Pg 325]</a></span></p> -<p><i lang="fr">Vinaigre de toilette héliotrope.</i>—Alcohol of best quality -5 quarts, tinctures of orris root and vanilla each 1 quart, -musk root tincture 3½ ozs., benzoin tincture 1 lb., bergamot -oil 1¾ ozs., verbena oil and palmarosa oil each 14 -drachms, clove oil 8¼ drachms, acetic acid 1 lb.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Vinaigre de toilette orange.</i>—Alcohol of best quality -5 quarts, benzoin tincture 10½ ozs., abelmosk tincture -and vitivert tincture each 8 ozs., civet tincture 14 -drachms, Portugal oil 8 ozs., acetic acid 14 ozs.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Vinaigre de toilette.</i>—Alcohol of best quality 10 quarts, -orris-root tincture 1⅗ lbs., tinctures of benzoin, tolu balsam -and angelica each 1 lb., French rose-geranium oil -1¾ ozs., bergamot oil 4¼ ozs., lemon oil and lavender oil -each 3½ ozs., neroli oil 8¼ drachms, best rosemary oil 11 -drachms, peppermint oil 5½ drachms, acetic acid 2 lbs.</p> - -<p><i>Aromatic vinegar.</i>—Tincture of benzoin 1 oz., alcohol -1⅛ oz., acetic ether and extract of jasmine each 1½ ozs., -acetic acid 3½ ozs., oil of rose 10 drops, oils of neroli and -wintergreen each 5 drops.</p> - -<p><i>English aromatic vinegar.</i>—Crystallized acetic acid 20 -ozs., camphor 2 ozs., oil of lavender 10 drops, oil of -cloves 30 drops, oil of cinnamon 15 drops. Mix and -dissolve.</p> - -<p>The preparation is used for smelling-bottles. The -vials are first filled with sulphate of potassa in small -crystals, and enough acetic acid is added to thoroughly -moisten the salt. The use of sulphate of potassa is -said to have originated from the fact, that the acid mixture -was formerly obtained by introducing into the -vials acetate of potassa and a sufficiency of sulphuric -acid. Whether this be true or not, sulphate of potassa<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">[Pg 326]</a></span> -constitutes an excellent medium for retaining the liquid -in the bottle. It acts simply as an incorrodible sponge.</p> - -<p><i>Toilet vinegar.</i>—Essence of bergamot 20 drops, essence -of ambergris 4 drachms, essence of vanilla and -oil of neroli each 30 drops, strong acetic acid 160 drops, -alcohol 6 ozs.</p> - -<p><i>Washes.</i>—Washes are mostly milky fluids or emulsions, -formed by the fine division of resins or balsams -in water, benzoin and myrrh being especially employed -for the purpose. Of the former, it was at one time -believed that fumigations with it every evening after -washing would prevent wrinkles in the face. The emulsions -are used by adding one to two tablespoonfuls to -the wash-water. Perfumed glycerin is also much employed -as an addition to wash-water.</p> - -<p><i>Virginal milk</i> (<i lang="fr">Lait virginal</i>).—Alcohol of finest -quality 2½ quarts, bergamot oil and Turkish rose oil -each 5½ drachms, benzoin tincture 1 quart.</p> - -<p>Pulverize in a porcelain mortar about 14 drachms of -sugar, add the bergamot oil and rose oil and mix intimately. -Now bring the paste-like substance into a -glass bottle, rinse out the mortar with the alcohol and -add the latter to the contents of the bottle. Close the -latter with a well-fitting stopper and place it in a warm -room for 8 days, shaking frequently. Then add the -benzoin tincture, mix intimately and finally filter -through paper. This fluid is used by adding sufficient -of it to the wash-water to form an emulsion, which -exerts a refreshing and invigorating effect upon the skin -and olfactory nerves.</p> - -<p><i>Rose milk</i> (<i lang="fr">Lait de rose</i>).—Rose water 5 lbs., white bees<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327">[Pg 327]</a></span>wax -and comminuted Castile soap each 3½ ozs., potash -4½ ozs., <i>Extrait rose</i> No. 1 8 ozs.</p> - -<p>Heat the rose-water in an enamelled or porcelain vessel, -and dissolve in it the Castile soap. Then add the wax, -and, when this is dissolved, the potash, stirring constantly, -while the substances are dissolving. When -solution is complete, strain the milk-like fluid through a -cloth (best gauze or muslin) into another vessel, cover it -and allow it to cool. When cold add the <i>Extrait rose</i>, -shake thoroughly and fill it into bottles for sale.</p> - -<p>If the <i lang="fr">Lait de rose</i> is to be rose color, add very carefully -a small quantity of corallin tincture and shake -vigorously.</p> - -<p>Besides wax, fatty or oily substances should not be -employed in the preparation of these emulsions, as -otherwise they would soon become rancid.</p> - -<p><i>Almond milk</i> (<i lang="fr">Lait d'amandes amères</i>).—Distilled water -5 lbs., bitter almonds 1 lb., white beeswax 1¾ ozs., comminuted -Castile soap 2½ ozs., potash 3½ ozs., bitter-almond -oil 8¼ drachms, dissolved in extract from <i>Pomm. -Tubereuse</i> 8 ozs.</p> - -<p>Scald and peel the bitter almonds. Then convert -them to a paste by pounding in a clean mortar, bring -the paste into the distilled water, and extract in a water-bath -for about ½ hour. Then strain the liquid through -a cloth, successively dissolve the other substances in the -strained fluid in the water-bath, and when all is dissolved, -strain again and proceed as given for rose milk. -The bitter-almond oil is dissolved in the extract from -<i>Pomm. Tubereuse</i> and added last of all to the liquid -mass.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">[Pg 328]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Lily milk</i> (<i lang="fr">Lait de lys</i>).—Rose water, orange-flower -water, and jasmine water each 1 quart, white beeswax -3½ ozs., Castile soap 2½ ozs., potash and orris-root tincture -each 3½ ozs., cumarin tincture 1¾ ozs., dissolved in -musk-root tincture 3½ ozs., bergamot oil 1¾ ozs. Proceed -as given for <i lang="fr">Lait de Rose</i>.</p> - -<p>In regard to the Castile soap, it may here be remarked -that it should be neutral and contain no excess of oil, as -otherwise all the preparations above given might, in a -short time, become rancid.</p> - -<p><i>Perfumed glycerin with rose odor.</i>—Chemically pure -glycerin of 28° B. 10 lbs., <i>Extrait rose</i> No. 1, 8 ozs.</p> - -<p>By adding the <i>Extrait rose</i>, the glycerin becomes turbid, -but clarifies by shaking thoroughly and allowing -the mixture to stand quietly for several days. Filtering -the fluid is not advisable, and besides entirely useless.</p> - -<p><i>Perfumed glycerin with fruit odor.</i>—Chemically pure -glycerin of 28° B. 10 lbs., any kind of fruit ether 1¾ -ozs. Shake thoroughly. The glycerin, if chemically -pure, is not rendered turbid by the fruit ether, which, -of course, must also be of the best quality.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Perfumed Meals and Pastes.</span>—The perfumed -meals are frequently used for washing in place of soap, -or they are applied after washing, or shaving, to the skin -to prevent the latter from becoming rough or chapped. -The pastes are applied in order to make the skin softer.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Farin de noisette</i> (<i>nut meal</i>).—Best quality wheat flour -3 lbs., almond meal 1½ lbs., orris-root powder 1 lb., bergamot -oil 2 ozs.</p> - -<p>Mix the ingredients intimately and pass the mixture -through a fine sieve.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_329" id="Page_329">[Pg 329]</a></span></p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Farin d'amandes amères</i> (<i>almond meal</i>).—Best quality -wheat flour and almond meal each 3 lbs., bitter-almond -oil 1 oz.</p> - -<p>Mix the ingredients intimately and pass the mixture -through a fine sieve.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Pate d'amandes au miel</i> (<i>honey almond paste</i>).—Best -quality almond meal 2 lbs., honey 4 lbs., chemically pure -glycerin of 28° B. 2 lbs., fresh olive oil 4 lbs., bitter-almond -oil 1¾ ozs., the yolks of 20 eggs.</p> - -<p>Sift the almond meal into a capacious earthenware -dish. Mix the honey and glycerin after slightly warming -them. Beat the yolks of the eggs in a small dish -with a tablespoon until a uniform mass is formed. Now -add alternately of the mixture of honey and glycerin and -of the olive oil to the almond meal, work the whole -thoroughly with the pestle, then add the yolks of the -eggs, stirring constantly, and finally the bitter-almond -oil. The whole now forms a viscous mass. It is best -to keep the freshly-prepared paste in a well-closed -earthenware pot in a cool place for about 14 days before -distributing it into boxes, because after the ingredients -are mixed together a slight fermentation takes place -which might cause damage by bursting the lids of the -porcelain boxes.</p> - -<p>Ladies use this paste for producing a fine soft skin, -upon the hands, face, and neck, for which, in fact, it -has proved excellent.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Poudre de riz à la rose.</i>—Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared -talc 19 ozs., <i>Extrait rose</i> No. 1, 3½ ozs., French rose-geranium -oil 14 drachms, clove oil 2¾ drachms.</p> - -<p>The ingredients are intimately mixed and passed -through a sieve. The perfumes are brought together in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_330" id="Page_330">[Pg 330]</a></span> -a glass and thoroughly shaken. The same directions -hold good for all succeeding receipts for <i lang="fr">Poudre de riz</i>. -Of talc only the whitest pieces should be used, the -Briancon talc or French chalk being very suitable for -the purpose, it yielding a very white and delicate powder. -It is prepared as follows: Over 1 part of talc pour 2 -parts of vinegar, let it stand, with frequent shaking, for -14 days, then filter and thoroughly wash the talc with -distilled water.</p> - -<p>If rose-colored <i lang="fr">poudre de riz rose</i> is demanded, add to -the proportions of weight above given about 1 oz. of -madder, triturate it thoroughly with the powder, perfume, -triturate again, and finally pass the whole through -a fine sieve.</p> - -<p>These rice powders are best kept in well-closed tin -canisters.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Poudre de riz héliotrope.</i>—Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared -talc 19 ozs., bergamot oil 10 drachms, French rose-geranium -oil 5 drachms, clove oil 2½ drachms, vanilla -tincture 10 drachms, <i>Extrait héliotrope</i> No. 1, 1¾ ozs.</p> - -<p>Proceed as directed for <i lang="fr">Poudre de riz à la rose</i>.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Poudre de riz à la violette.</i>—Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared -talc 19 ozs., bergamot oil 10 drachms, liquid orris-root -oil 2½ drachms, <i>Extrait Violette</i> No. 1, 1 oz., cumarin -tincture 5 drachms.</p> - -<p>Proceed as directed for <i lang="fr">Poudre riz à la rose</i>.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Poudre de riz orange.</i>—Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared -talc 19 ozs., Portugal oil 1 oz., petit-grain oil 5 drachms, -extract from <i>Pommade Orange</i> 1 oz.</p> - -<p>Proceed as directed for <i lang="fr">Poudre riz à la rose</i>.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Poudre de riz muguet.</i>—Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared -talc 19 ozs., ylang-ylang oil, wintergreen oil, angelica<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">[Pg 331]</a></span> -oil, and bitter-almond oil each 2 drops, bergamot oil 5 -drops, storax tincture 14 drachms, <i>Extrait Muguet</i> No. -1, 3½ ozs.</p> - -<p>Proceed as directed for <i lang="fr">Poudre de riz à la rose</i>.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Poudre de riz ixora.</i>—Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc -19 oz., bergamot oil 2½ drachms, Ceylon cinnamon oil 1 -drachm, tinctures of orris root and vanilla each 1¾ ozs., -extract from <i>Pomm. Cassie</i> or <i>Extrait ixora</i> 1¾ ozs.</p> - -<p>Proceed as directed for <i>Poudre de riz à la rose</i>.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Poudre de riz bouquet.</i>—Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared -talc 19 ozs., bergamot oil 8 drachms, African rose oil and -Ceylon cinnamon oil each 2¾ drachms, <i>Extrait ess-bouquet</i> -No. 1, 3½ ozs.</p> - -<p>Proceed as directed for <i lang="fr">Poudre de riz à la rose</i>.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Cold Creams and Lip-Salves.</span>—The purpose of -cold creams and lip-salves is to impart lustre to the skin -and protect it from cracking in changes of temperature.</p> - -<p><i>Cold cream.</i>—Fat-almond oil 3 lbs., spermaceti 5¼ ozs., -white beeswax 7 ozs., best rose water 1 quart, bergamot -oil 14 drachms, Turkish rose oil 5½ drachms.</p> - -<p>Melt in a porcelain dish in the water-bath, first the -spermaceti and wax, then add the almond oil, and when -the whole forms a liquid allow the previously warmed -rose water to flow in slowly, stirring constantly. Now -take the dish from the water-bath, and with a large -spoon of silver or horn stir the mass until it begins to -thicken. Then stir in the perfume and fill the finished -cold cream in boxes.</p> - -<p><i>Vaseline cold cream.</i>—White vaseline 2 lbs., fat-almond -oil 1 lb., white beeswax 1¾ ozs., bergamot oil 14 drachms, -French rose-geranium oil and Turkish rose oil each 2½ -drachms.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_332" id="Page_332">[Pg 332]</a></span></p> - -<p>Proceed (without the rose water) as directed for cold -cream.</p> - -<p><i>Glycerin cream.</i>—Fat-almond oil 3 lbs., white beeswax -and spermaceti each 7 ozs., chemically pure glycerin -of 28° B. 1 lb., bergamot oil 1 oz., clove oil, Turkish -rose oil, and French geranium oil each 2½ drachms. -Proceed as above.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Crême de concombre.</i>—Fat-almond oil 8 ozs., white -beeswax 10 drachms, spermaceti 12 drachms, freshly-expressed -cucumber juice 7 ozs., volatile cucumber oil -2½ drachms, bergamot oil 1½ drachms.</p> - -<p>Grate the cucumbers on a grater, place the grated -mass upon a clean white cloth, and gently express the -juice so that no mucus passes through the cloth. The -cucumber juice is slightly warmed, the rest of the process -being the same as with cold cream.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Glycerin gelée.</i>—Gum-tragacanth 5½ drachms, swelled -up in rose water 10½ ozs., chemically pure glycerin of 28° -B. 7 ozs., honey 3½ ozs., <i>Extrait rose</i> No. 1, 1¾ ozs.</p> - -<p>Convert the gum tragacanth to a coarse powder, bring -the powder into a capacious glass flask, pour the rose -water upon it, and, after corking the flask, let it stand -for about 3 days, shaking it frequently and vigorously. -Then strain the swelled gum tragacanth, which now represents -a thick fluid, through a white cloth or fine-meshed -sieve into a dish, and after adding the glycerin, honey, -and <i>Extrait rose</i>, mix the whole intimately, and fill the -tubes or glasses with the finished preparation. It is an -approved remedy for chapped skin.</p> - -<p><i>Glycerin jelly.</i>—Glycerin 1 lb., fat-almond oil 3 lbs., -soap 2½ ozs., orange-peel oil 2¾ drachms, thyme oil 5½ -drachms.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">[Pg 333]</a></span></p> - -<p>Mix the soap with the glycerin, gradually add the oil, -and finally the perfume.</p> - -<p><i>Cream of roses.</i>—Gum tragacanth 25 grains, glycerin -1 oz., alcohol ½ oz., water 6½ ozs., boric acid 40 grains, -spirits of lavender and bergamot each 1 oz.</p> - -<p><i>Boroglycerin cream.</i>—Dissolve 1 part of boric acid in -24 parts of glycerin; add to this solution 5 parts of -lanolin and 70 parts of petrolatum. This preparation -is said to be excellent for chapped hands, lips, etc.</p> - -<p><i>Récamier cream.</i>—The following formula is said to -produce something quite similar to this preparation: -zinc oxide 4 ozs., glycerin 13 fluid drachms, water 5 -fluid drachms, spirit of rose (4 drachms to 1 pint) 1 -fluid drachm.</p> - -<p><i>Preparations for chapped hands.</i>—I. Quince seed 2 -ozs., rose water 16 ozs., glycerin 32 ozs., tincture of -benzoin 2 ozs. Macerate the quince seeds in the rose -water 24 hours, strain, and add the glycerin and benzoin.</p> - -<p>II. Balsam of Peru 1 drachm, purified wool fat 1 -oz. Perfume to suit.</p> - -<p>III. Menthol 1.5 parts, salol 2, olive oil 2, lanolin -50. Apply twice daily. The pain soon ceases, the -skin softens and the chaps quickly disappear.</p> - -<p>IV. Quince seed 1½ drachms, boric acid 4 grains, -carbolic acid 10 grains, glycerin 2 ozs., alcohol 3 ozs., -cologne 2 ozs., oil of lavender 20 drops, glycerite of -starch 2 ozs., water sufficient to make 1 pint. Dissolve -the boric acid in 8 ozs. of water, macerate the quince -seed in the solution for three hours and then press -through a straining cloth, add the glycerin, carbolic acid -and glycerite of starch and mix thoroughly. Mix the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">[Pg 334]</a></span> -cologne and oil of lavender with the alcohol, add the -solution to the mucilage and mix the whole well.</p> - -<p><i>Wash for the hands.-</i>-Tannin 8 grains, glycerin 5 -drachms, rose water 4 ozs. Mix and filter. The hands -should be washed with soap in soft water, or water to -which a little borax has been added, thoroughly dried -and then well rubbed with the lotion.</p> - -<p><i>Nail-powder.</i>—The following preparation serves for -the purpose of imparting smoothness and lustre to the -finger nails. For use apply some of the powder to a -piece of soft glove-leather and rub the nails until they -show lustre.</p> - -<p>Stannic oxide (putty powder) 2 lbs., carmine 5½ -drachms, oils of bergamot and lavender each 2½ drachms. -Rub the stannic oxide as fine as possible and mix it in -the mortar with the other ingredients.</p> - -<p><i>Lip-salve</i> No. 1.—<i>Pomm. Rose</i> No. 24 or 30, 8 ozs., -best carmine nacarat 2½ drachms.</p> - -<p>Convert the carmine to a fine powder and thoroughly -triturate it with the <i>Pomm. Rose</i> in a porcelain mortar -until no more specks of carmine are perceptible. By -this trituration the salve becomes very soft and delicate, -so that it can be conveniently pressed into the small -boxes. A pleasing lustre is then imparted to the surface -of the salve by carefully moving each box to and -fro over the flame of an alcohol lamp. It may here be -remarked that carmine nacarat is the best coloring matter -for lip-salve, it being far more resistant than, for instance, -alkannin, which, in contact with the skin, readily -acquires a bluish coloration.</p> - -<p>If lip-salve of a more solid consistency is desired, the -object may be attained by the addition of a few drachms<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_335" id="Page_335">[Pg 335]</a></span> -of white beeswax. However, in this case, the pomade -must be melted in a water-bath, or the pomade and wax -melted together. Then add the carmine, stir until cold, -fill into boxes and make the surface lustrous over an alcohol -flame.</p> - -<p><i>Lip-salve</i> No. 2.—<i>Pomm. Rose</i> No. 6 or 12, 10½ ozs., -<i>Huile antique rose</i> No. 6 or 12, 14 drachms, white beeswax -5½ drachms, carmine nacarat 2¾ drachms.</p> - -<p>Melt the wax in a porcelain or enamelled vessel, then -add, first, the oil, combine it with the wax, then add the -pomade and finally the carmine. When all this is intimately -mixed, stir it until cold. The further process is -the same as given for No. 1.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Paints.</span>—The object of paints is to hide blemishes of -the skin and to impart to it a different color—as a rule -a youthful one—from that bestowed by nature, though -under certain conditions, especially in the case of actors, -they are also employed for the purpose of changing the -expression of the face. A distinction is made between -pulverulent, solid, liquid and fat paints.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Pulverulent Paints</span> (<span class="smcap">Powders</span>).—The simplest -powder is wheat starch. It forms a dull white powder -with a bluish lustre, and is perfectly harmless. Powdered -talc, prepared in the manner previously described -(p. 330), is also much used for powder. By mixing 100 -parts of prepared talc, while still moist, with 12 parts -of spermaceti, previously rubbed to a moist powder -with some rectified alcohol, and drying at a moderate -heat, a product known in commerce as "Blanc fard," -or "Blanc français," is obtained.</p> - -<p>Talc by itself not furnishing a beautiful white, it is -mixed, according to circumstances, with <i>subnitrate of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_336" id="Page_336">[Pg 336]</a></span> -bismuth</i> (<i>flake-white</i>), <i>magnesia</i>, <i>chalk</i> or <i>zinc-white</i>. -<i>White lead</i>, though frequently used, cannot be recommended, -it being injurious to health. Subnitrate of -bismuth furnishes the best white; it has, however, the -disadvantage of turning brown in air containing sulphuretted -hydrogen. Zinc-white does not have this defect, -but lacks the lustre and pure white color.</p> - -<p>Customary mixtures for powders are as follows:—</p> - -<p>I. Carbonate of magnesia and wheat starch each 5 -parts, prepared talc 15, zinc-white 10.</p> - -<p>II. Carbonate of magnesia and chalk each 5 parts, -prepared talc 15, subnitrate of bismuth 20.</p> - -<p>The powders are prepared in three colors: white, -rose-color and yellowish. To heighten the white color -the powder is mixed with about ⅓ of one per cent. of -ultra-marine. For rose color some carmine is used, and -for coloring yellowish some carmine and yellow ochre.</p> - -<p>A powder for coloring more intensely red is prepared -as follows: Mix 100 parts of prepared talc with 2.5 or -more parts of carmine, according to the desired shade -of color. The carmine is triturated by itself and in -small portions added to the talc. It should not be -dissolved, as given in many directions, in ammonia, it -losing thereby its fiery red. To obtain an especially -delicate powder, the finished article should be carefully -bolted through silk.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Solid Paints.</span>—Solid paints may be prepared from -the above-mentioned powders by stirring them to a paste -with thin gum solution.</p> - -<p><i>Ordinary red paint</i> (<i>rouge</i>).—Prepared talc 2 lbs., carmine -1 oz., gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared from distilled -water 3½ ozs. and gum-tragacanth 2¼ drachms, best<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337">[Pg 337]</a></span> -olive oil 5½ drachms, best alcohol 1 oz., spirits of sal -ammoniac ½ tablespoonful, distilled water as much as -required.</p> - -<p><i>Fine red paint</i> (<i>rouge</i>).—Prepared talc 2 lbs., carmine -1½ ozs., gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared from distilled -water 3½ ozs. and gum-tragacanth 2¼ drachms, best olive -oil 5½ drachms, <i>Extrait rose</i> No. 1, 1 oz., spirits of sal -ammoniac ½ tablespoonful, rose water as much as required.</p> - -<p><i>White paint.</i>—Prepared talc 2 lbs., gum-tragacanth -mucilage prepared from distilled water 3½ ozs. and gum-tragacanth -2¼ drachms, best olive oil 5½ drachms, <i>Extrait -rose</i> No. 1, 1 oz., rose water as much as required.</p> - -<p>The above-mentioned paints may be filled in small -porcelain boxes, which must, however, be hermetically -closed to prevent drying out. To obviate the latter, -the paints may be mixed with glycerin, which must, -however, be carefully done so that the mass does not -become liquid; too much glycerin may also make the -paint blue.</p> - -<p>Regarding the preparation of these paints, the following -may be said: The prepared talc is passed through a -fine-meshed sieve into a porcelain dish. The carmine is -rubbed fine in a porcelain mortar and then triturated -with water<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> in the same mortar until no more specks of -carmine are visible. Now add the dissolved carmine to -the talc in the porcelain dish, stir thoroughly with a -horn or wooden spoon, and gradually add sufficient rose -water to form a dough-like mass. Then add to this -mass about 1¾ ozs. of gum-tragacanth mucilage, pre<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338">[Pg 338]</a></span>pared -3 or 4 days before from 2¼ drachms of pulverized -gum-tragacanth and 3½ ozs. of water, work the -mass thoroughly through, and add the 5½ drachms of -best olive oil. The oil being also incorporated with -the mass, mix in the 1 oz. of <i>Extrait rose</i> or alcohol, -and again work the mass thoroughly through, when the -paint is ready to be brought upon porcelain plates.</p> - -<p>The procedure is now as follows: By means of a -spoon bring a quantity of the paint, about the size of -three hazelnuts upon the centre of a porcelain plate, -spread it out uniformly to the edge of the plate by -knocking the latter against the table, and in the same -manner cover 6 or 8 plates. These are the test-plates. -Tie a piece of paper over the dish containing the rest -of the paint and set it aside. Place the plates coated -with paint in a dry place to dry, but do not expose them -to sunlight, nor should soaps be kept in the room, as in -both cases the paint would become blue. After 12 to -18 hours the paint upon the plates will be dry, and now -comes the most difficult part of the manipulation. With -a small horn-knife or the sharp edge of a playing card -scrape off very carefully and uniformly a small quantity -from the surface of the paint, proceeding from the -edges towards the centre of the plate. Then, to see -whether the paint adheres firmly to the plate, knock the -edge of the latter quite vigorously against the table. If -it adheres firmly, cover the entire plate with a piece of -watered silk, catch the ends of the latter beneath the -plate with the left hand, and, with the palm of the right, -run quite hard over the silk. By this means the moiré -of the silk is imprinted upon the paint, giving it a nice -appearance. Proceed in the same manner with the six<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_339" id="Page_339">[Pg 339]</a></span> -or eight test-plates, and if the paint upon them bears -the manipulation without dropping off, work up the rest -of the paint in the dish. If, however, the paint does -not adhere to the plates, it is proof of it containing not -enough gum-tragacanth. In this case add some of the -mucilage to the paint in the dish, work it thoroughly -through, and proceed in the manner described. Packing, -labelling, etc., being subject to fashion, need not -here be described, but as the charm of novelty contributes -much to the sale of an article, the manufacturer -should make it his business to invent new attractive designs, -without too much imitating others.</p> - -<p><i>Red stick-paint</i> (<i>Stick rouge</i>).—Prepared talc 1 lb., -carmine 5½ drachms, olive oil 2¾ drachms, alcohol 8¼ -drachms, spirit of sal ammoniac a good teaspoonful, -distilled water and gum-tragacanth mucilage as much as -required.</p> - -<p>The mode of preparation is the same as for solid -paints, except that in order to give the rouge more consistency, -less water and gum-tragacanth mucilage are to -be used.</p> - -<p>For moulding the rouge into sticks, round tin moulds -about 2½ inches long and of the thickness of a finger -are used. To facilitate the removal of the rouge -sticks, the inside of the moulds is rubbed with a rag -moistened with olive oil and wrapped around a thin -stick of wood. After removing the sticks from the -mould, they are allowed to dry superficially, and next -wrapped first in tissue paper and then in tinfoil, one -end, however, being left free from paper and tinfoil. -They are finally labelled and packed in paste-board boxes.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_340" id="Page_340">[Pg 340]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>White stick paint</i> is prepared in the same manner as -stick rouge, with the exception that the carmine is omitted.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Rouge en feuilles.</i>—Prepared talc 1¾ ozs., carmine 2¾ -drachms, olive oil 10 to 15 drops, spirits of sal ammoniac -about 50 drops, pure alcohol 5¼ ozs., distilled water -or rose water 8 ozs., gum-tragacanth mucilage 1¾ ozs.</p> - -<p>The carmine is first rubbed fine, then the olive oil, -spirits of sal ammoniac, and gum-tragacanth mucilage -are successively thoroughly triturated with the carmine, -next the talc is added, then the water, and finally the -alcohol. Mix all intimately in a mortar with the pestle. -The whole forms a fluid which, by means of a fine brush, -is applied to a square piece of white card board, so that a -circular disk the size of a silver dollar lies in the centre -of the paper. The application of the rouge to the paper -has to be repeated three or four times, allowing one layer -to dry before applying the next. When the last layer is -dry, the rouge is smoothed by laying a piece of tissue -paper upon it and running the broad side of a paper -cutter over the tissue paper. In packing, a piece of -tissue is laid between the separate pieces.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Liquid Paints.</span> Liquid paints are chiefly used by -actors.</p> - -<p><i>Liquid rouge.</i>—Rose water 1½ quarts, carmine 1¾ ozs., -<i>Extrait rose</i> No. 1, 1 lb.</p> - -<p>Heat the rose water, without allowing it to boil, in a -glazed earthenware vessel, add the carmine, previously -rubbed fine, to the hot rose water, and stir the fluid with -a clean wooden spatula until the carmine is completely -divided. Then take the vessel from the fire and add -a tablespoonful of spirits of sal ammoniac. The latter -imparts to the rouge a brighter red, but not too much<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341">[Pg 341]</a></span> -of it should be used, as otherwise the rouge acquires a -bluish shade, and besides the odor of the spirits of sal -ammoniac is not exactly agreeable. When the rouge is -cold add 1 lb. of <i lang="fr">Extrait de rose</i>, mix the whole intimately, -and filter through white filtering paper into a -clean glass bottle. The rouge has to be protected from -sunlight.</p> - -<p><i>White liquid paint.</i>—Fine zinc-white 3 lbs., rose water -or orange water 3½ quarts.</p> - -<p>In a clean enamelled vessel boil the zinc-white in 5 -quarts of distilled water, stirring constantly, until about -3 quarts of the water are evaporated. Then take the -vessel from the fire and allow the fluid to stand quietly -for ½ hour. Then carefully decant off the supernatant -water, pour the 3½ quarts of rose water or orange water -upon the zinc-white, stir thoroughly, and fill in bottles.</p> - -<p><i>Fat paints.</i>—Fat paints of various colors and shades -are prepared chiefly for the use of actors. The ground -mass consists of <i lang="fr">Blanc fard</i> or <i lang="fr">Blanc français</i>, or simply -of pulverized talc bolted through silk. It is colored, -according to the color desired, with carmine, eosin, -sienna, lamp black, or aniline colors, and incorporated -in the proportion of 1½ ground mass to 1 fatty mass, -with the fatty mass consisting of white wax 3 parts and -olive oil 7 parts; <i>or</i> paraffin 1½ parts and white vaseline -2 parts. The fatty mass is melted in the water-bath, -the powder stirred in, and after allowing the -mixture to cool somewhat, it is perfumed and poured -into tin tubes previously slightly warmed.</p> - -<p>Besides the above-mentioned <i>fat paints in sticks</i>, there -are also <i>fat paints in porcelain boxes</i>, which are of a somewhat -softer consistency. They are prepared in white,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_342" id="Page_342">[Pg 342]</a></span> -rose color, and yellowish. A few receipts for them are -as follows:—</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Crême de Lys.</i>—Melt 3½ ozs. of spermaceti and 7 ozs. -of white wax in the water-bath, and after taking the -mass from the fire mix it with 3⅕ lbs. of subnitrate of -bismuth, previously rubbed fine, with 1⅘ lbs. of almond -oil. Then allow to cool somewhat, next stir until entirely -cold, and perfume.</p> - -<p><i lang="fr">Crême de rose.</i>—Spermaceti 3½ ozs., white wax 7 ozs., -<i lang="fr">Blanc Français</i> 3⅕ lbs., carmine 8¼ drachms, almond oil -1-4/5 lbs.</p> - -<p>Proceed as directed for <i lang="fr">crême de lys</i>.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_343" id="Page_343">[Pg 343]</a></span></p> - - - - -<div class="chapter"><h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX">INDEX.</a></h2></div> - - -<div class="index"> -<ul class="index"> -<li class="ifrst">Abelmosk or musk-seed tincture, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Absorption or enfleurage, process of, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>-65</li> - -<li class="indx">Acacia oil, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Acetic amyl acetate or amyl acetate, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a></li> -<li class="isub1">ethyl or ethyl acetate, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a>-204</li> - -<li class="indx">Acid number, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a></li> - -<li class="indx">African and French geranium oils, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Alcohol and sulphuric acid test, Hager's, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a></li> -<li class="isub1">chloroform, and benzine, quantitative determination of adulterations with, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a></li> -<li class="isub1">or spirit of wine, detection of, in volatile oil, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>-71</li> - -<li class="indx">Alcoholic perfumes, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>-255</li> - -<li class="indx">Allspice, oil of, or pimento oil, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Almond bandoline, <a href='#Page_305'>305</a></li> -<li class="isub1">meal, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a></li> -<li class="isub1">milk, <a href='#Page_327'>327</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oil (bitter), <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>-93</li> -<li class="isub2">adulterations of, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>-92</li> -<li class="isub2">artificial, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a></li> -<li class="isub2">tincture, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> -<li class="isub1">paste, honey, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Alpine herb oil, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ambergris, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>-188</li> -<li class="isub1">adulterations of, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ambrein or ambrin, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a></li> - -<li class="indx">America and England, use and preparation of nitrous ether in, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>-214</li> - -<li class="indx">American curled mint oil, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a></li> -<li class="isub1">English, or Canadian castor, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a></li> -<li class="isub1">musk-rat, musk of the, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oil of turpentine, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a></li> -<li class="isub1">peppermint oil, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a></li> - -<li class="indx">American soap industry, consumption of citronella oil in the, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a></li> -<li class="isub1">storax, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Amygdalin, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Amyl acetate or acetic amyl acetate, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a></li> -<li class="isub1">valerate or valerianic ether, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>-216</li> - -<li class="indx">Anethol, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Angelica oil, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a></li> -<li class="isub1">root tincture, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Animal kingdom, perfume-substances from the, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>-188</li> - -<li class="indx">Anise-seed oil, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Antiseptic gargle, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Apparatus for alcoholic extracts from flower pomades, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a>-225</li> -<li class="isub1">for determining the percentage of volatile oil in a vegetable substance, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> -<li class="isub1">for distilling lemon oil, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>-120</li> -<li class="isub1">for the absorption process, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>-64</li> -<li class="isub1">for the distillation of volatile oil, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>-46</li> -<li class="isub1">for the extraction of volatile oils, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>-57</li> -<li class="isub1">for the preparation of tinctures, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a>, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Apple essence, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a></li> -<li class="isub1">ether, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Apricot essence, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> -<li class="isub1">ether, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Aqua mellis, <a href='#Page_255'>255</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Arabian physicians, receipts for cosmetics in the writings of, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Arnica tooth-tincture, <a href='#Page_276'>276</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Aromatic vinegar, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a></li> -<li class="isub1">English, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344">[Pg 344]</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx">Artificial musk, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a></li> -<li class="isub1">perfume-materials, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>-218</li> - -<li class="indx">Athens, luxurious use of ointments in, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Atomizers, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Atomizing, pine odor for, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Attar of roses or rose oil, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>-144</li> - -<li class="indx">Austrian oil of turpentine, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Avicenna, receipts for cosmetics in the writings of, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Balm oil, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Balm-oil tincture, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Balsam, Brazilian, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Carthagena, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a></li> -<li class="isub1">fumigating, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a>, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Peru, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>-166</li> -<li class="isub1">pine oil, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Tolu, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>-168</li> -<li class="isub2">new variety of, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a></li> -<li class="isub1">white Indian, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a></li> -<li class="isub2">Peru, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a></li> -<li class="isub2">Peruvian, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Balsams, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a></li> -<li class="isub1">and resins, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>-177</li> - -<li class="indx">Balsamum Peruvianum, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>-166</li> - -<li class="indx">Bandoline, almond, <a href='#Page_305'>305</a></li> -<li class="isub1">rose, <a href='#Page_305'>305</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bandolines, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a>, <a href='#Page_305'>305</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Barenthin's application of Hübl's iodine method to volatile oils, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bartholow's depilatory, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bartlett, W. W., menthol pungent as prepared by, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Preston salt as prepared by, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Basil oil, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bayberry oil, or oil of bay leaves, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bay leaves, oil of, or bayberry oil, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bay rum, <a href='#Page_312'>312</a>-314</li> -<li class="isub1">formulæ for, <a href='#Page_313'>313</a>, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Beard, Rogers's pomade for producing a, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bear's grease, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Beauty-patch or mouche, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Beef-marrow pomade, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Benzine, detection of, in volatile oil, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Benzoic ether or ethyl benzoate, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Benzoin, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>-159</li> -<li class="isub1">amygdaloid, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a></li> -<li class="isub1">determination of cinnamic acid in, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a></li> -<li class="isub1">flowers, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a></li> -<li class="isub1">in tears, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a></li> -<li class="isub1">lump, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a></li> -<li class="isub1">treatment of fat oils with, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a>, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a></li> -<li class="isub1">varieties of, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bergamot oil, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Betula lenta, oil from, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Beyer frères, apparatus for alcoholic extracts from flower pomades, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a>-225</li> -<li class="isub1">for the preparation of tinctures, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a>, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Birch oil, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bismuth hair dye, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a></li> -<li class="isub1">nitrate of, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bisulphide of carbon, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Black hair dyes, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tooth-powder, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a></li> -<li class="isub1">wax pomade, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Blanc fard or blanc français, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Blondel, Dr., memoir on the star anise tree, by, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Blonde wax pomade, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Boettger's depilatory, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Boroglycerin cream, <a href='#Page_333'>333</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bouchardat and Lafont, conversion of oil of turpentine into lemon oil by, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bouquet vaseline pomade, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bouquets, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>-245</li> - -<li class="indx">Brazilian balsam, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Brilliantine, <a href='#Page_305'>305</a>-308</li> -<li class="isub1">formulas for, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Brown hair dye, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a></li> -<li class="isub1">wax pomade, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a>, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bulgaria, rose oil industry in, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Burdock-root hair oil, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Butyric acid, preparation of, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>-207</li> -<li class="isub1">ether, formation of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a></li> -<li class="isub2">or ethyl butyrate, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>-210<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_345" id="Page_345">[Pg 345]</a></span></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Cajeput oil, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Camomile oil, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Camphor tooth-powder, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Canadian, English, or American castor, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Canango oil, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Caraway oil, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a>, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Carbon, bisulphide of, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Carbonic acid, apparatus for developing a current of, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>-52</li> - -<li class="indx">Carob or St. John's bread, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Carthagena balsam, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Carvene, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Carvol, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cassia oil, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> -<li class="isub1">value of, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cassie, oil of, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Castor, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> -<li class="isub1">adulterations of, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Castoreum or castor, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Castor oil, determination of, in volatile oil, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a></li> -<li class="isub1">or castoreum, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cedar oil, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ceylon cinnamon oil, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Chalk, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Chamomile oil, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Chapped hands, preparations for, <a href='#Page_333'>333</a>, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Chassis, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cherry essence, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> -<li class="isub1">ether, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a></li> -<li class="isub1">laurel oil, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tooth-paste, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a></li> -<li class="isub2">non-fermenting, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Chloroform, alcohol, and benzine, quantitative determination of adulterations with, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a></li> -<li class="isub1">detection of, in volatile oil, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cineol, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cinnamaldehyde, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a></li> -<li class="isub1">quantitative determination of, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>-106</li> - -<li class="indx">Cinnamic acid, determination of, in benzoin, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cinnamon leaves, oil of, and cinnamon-root oil, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oil tincture, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oils, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>-106</li> - -<li class="indx">Cinnamon root oil and oil of cinnamon leaves, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Citrene, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Citronella oil, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Citronellol, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Citron oil, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Civet, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Clove-oil tincture, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cloves, oil of, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>-110</li> - -<li class="indx">Cold cream, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a></li> -<li class="isub1">creams and lip-salves, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a>-335</li> - -<li class="indx">Cologne water, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>-254</li> -<li class="isub1">durability of volatile oils used for, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a>, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a></li> -<li class="isub1">preparation of, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a></li> -<li class="isub1">receipts for, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a>-254</li> - -<li class="indx">Coloring substances for dentifrices and mouth-waters, <a href='#Page_272'>272</a></li> -<li class="isub1">for pomades, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Compound odors, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>-245</li> - -<li class="indx">Copper hair dye, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a></li> -<li class="isub1">nitroprusside of, test, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>-78</li> -<li class="isub1">salts for dyeing the hair, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a>, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cortex thymiamatis, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cosmetics, <a href='#Page_324'>324</a>-342</li> -<li class="isub1">and perfumeries in the Middle Ages, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> -<li class="isub1">and perfumes in Italy, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> -<li class="isub1">receipts for, in the writings of Arabian physicians, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cream, boroglycerin, <a href='#Page_333'>333</a></li> -<li class="isub1">cold, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a></li> -<li class="isub1">glycerin, <a href='#Page_332'>332</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of roses, <a href='#Page_333'>333</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Récamier, <a href='#Page_333'>333</a></li> -<li class="isub1">vaseline cold, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Crême de concombre, <a href='#Page_332'>332</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de lys, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de rose, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cumarin, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>-193</li> -<li class="isub1">manufacture of, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Curled mint oil, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Currant essence, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cymene, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Dandruff cures, <a href='#Page_312'>312</a></li> -<li class="isub1">lotion, <a href='#Page_312'>312</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Densdorf pomade, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_346" id="Page_346">[Pg 346]</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx">Dentifrice, singular, used by the Roman ladies, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Dentifrices and mouth-waters, coloring substances for, <a href='#Page_272'>272</a></li> -<li class="isub1">mouth-waters, etc., <a href='#Page_272'>272</a>-283</li> - -<li class="indx">Depilatories, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a></li> -<li class="isub1">use of in ancient Rome, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Dioscorides's directions for making animal fats suitable for the reception of perfumes, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> -<li class="isub1">for preparing rose ointment, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> -<li class="isub1">"Medica materia," <a href='#Page_23'>23</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Distillation of expressed oil, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of lemon oil, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of rose oil, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of volatile oils, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>-48</li> -<li class="isub2">ancient mode of, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Distilling apparatus for lemon oil, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>-120</li> - -<li class="indx">Double hair dyes, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Dragendorff's test, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Dry perfumes, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a>-261</li> - -<li class="indx">Dutch tonka bean, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a>, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Dwarf pine oil, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">East Indian geranium oil, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Eau Athénienne, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Eau d'Afrique, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de Botot (improved), <a href='#Page_275'>275</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de Cologne, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>-254</li> -<li class="isub2">durability of volatile oils for, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a>, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a></li> -<li class="isub2">hair tonic, <a href='#Page_309'>309</a></li> -<li class="isub2">preparation of, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a></li> -<li class="isub2">receipts for, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a>-254</li> -<li class="isub2">solid perfume, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de lavande, <a href='#Page_255'>255</a></li> -<li class="isub2">double, <a href='#Page_255'>255</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de Lisbonne, <a href='#Page_255'>255</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de quinine, <a href='#Page_309'>309</a>, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li> -<li class="isub2">(imitation), <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de vie de lavande double ambrée, <a href='#Page_255'>255</a></li> -<li class="isub1">dentifrice Botot, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a></li> -<li class="isub2">Orientale, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a>, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a></li> -<li class="isub1">lustral (hair restorative), <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Écuelle process for obtaining lemon oil, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Egg oil, virtues of, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Egypt, ancient, paints used in, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Egyptians, use of perfume-substances by the, for embalming the dead, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Elæoptene, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Emperor pomade, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Enfleurage or absorption, process of, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>-65</li> - -<li class="indx">England and America, use and preparation of nitrous ether in, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>-214</li> -<li class="isub1">use of perfumery in, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> - -<li class="indx">English aromatic vinegar, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Canadian, or American castor, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a></li> -<li class="isub1">peppermint oil, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tonka bean, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Esprit de menthe, <a href='#Page_276'>276</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ess-bouquet sachet powder, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a></li> -<li class="isub1">solid perfume, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Essence à l'écuelle, or au zeste, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a></li> -<li class="isub1">apple, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a></li> -<li class="isub1">apricot, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> -<li class="isub1">cherry, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> -<li class="isub1">currant, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de jasmin, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de lavande Montblanc, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de mirbane, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a></li> -<li class="isub1">grape, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> -<li class="isub1">lemon, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> -<li class="isub1">melon, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of Portugal, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of the odor of Linden blossoms, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> -<li class="isub1">orange, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> -<li class="isub1">peach, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pear, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pine-apple, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> -<li class="isub1">plum, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> -<li class="isub1">raspberry, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li> -<li class="isub1">strawberry, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Essences and vinegars, fumigating, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a>-266</li> -<li class="isub1">pastilles, powders, etc., for fumigating, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>-271</li> - -<li class="indx">Essential or volatile oils, occurrence of, in plants, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ester or ether number, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ether, apple, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a></li> -<li class="isub1">apricot, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a></li> -<li class="isub1">cherry, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a></li> -<li class="isub1">or ester number, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pear, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pine-apple, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a></li> -<li class="isub1">strawberry, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ethers, fruit, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a>-218<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_347" id="Page_347">[Pg 347]</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx">Ethyl acetate, or acetic ethyl, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a>-204</li> -<li class="isub1">benzoate, or benzoic ether, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a></li> -<li class="isub1">butyrate, or butyric ether, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>-210</li> -<li class="isub1">formate, or formic ethyl ether, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a></li> -<li class="isub1">nitrite, or nitrous ether, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>-214</li> - -<li class="indx">Eucalyptene, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Eucalyptol, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Eucalyptus oil, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Eugenol, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Expression of volatile oils, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>-39</li> - -<li class="indx">Extract, concentrated flower, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a></li> -<li class="isub1">patchouli, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a></li> -<li class="isub1">spinach, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Extraction of volatile oils, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>-58</li> -<li class="isub1">or maceration of flowers, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Extracts, alcoholic, from flower pomades, apparatus for, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a>-225</li> -<li class="isub1">and tinctures, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a>-237</li> - -<li class="indx">Extrait acacia, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a></li> -<li class="isub1">bouquet Eugenie, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a></li> -<li class="isub2">Prince Albert, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a></li> -<li class="isub2">Victoria, <a href='#Page_242'>242</a>, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a></li> -<li class="isub1">cassie, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a></li> -<li class="isub1">chypre, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a>, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de violette de Parme, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a>, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a></li> -<li class="isub1">edelweiss, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a></li> -<li class="isub1">ess-bouquet, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a>, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a></li> -<li class="isub1">excelsior, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a></li> -<li class="isub1">fleurs de Mai, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Frangipani, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a>, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a></li> -<li class="isub1">héliotrope, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a></li> -<li class="isub1">ixora, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a>, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a></li> -<li class="isub1">jacinthe, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a>, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> -<li class="isub1">jasmin, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> -<li class="isub1">jockey club, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a>, <a href='#Page_242'>242</a></li> -<li class="isub1">jonquille, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> -<li class="isub1">kiss-me-quick, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a></li> -<li class="isub1">lily of the valley, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> -<li class="isub1">magnolia, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> -<li class="isub1">maréchal, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a></li> -<li class="isub1">May flowers, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li> -<li class="isub1">millefleurs, <a href='#Page_242'>242</a></li> -<li class="isub1">mogadore, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a></li> -<li class="isub1">mousseline, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a></li> -<li class="isub1">muguet, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a>, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a></li> -<li class="isub1">musk, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a></li> -<li class="isub1">new-mown hay, <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Extract opopanax, <a href='#Page_242'>242</a></li> -<li class="isub1">orange, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a></li> -<li class="isub1">patchouli, <a href='#Page_242'>242</a></li> -<li class="isub1">réséda, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a></li> -<li class="isub1">rose, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a></li> -<li class="isub2">v. d. centifolie, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a></li> -<li class="isub1">spring-flower, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a>, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tubereuse, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a></li> -<li class="isub1">violette, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a>, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a></li> -<li class="isub1">white rose, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a></li> -<li class="isub1">ylang-ylang, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Extraits aux fleurs, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a>-240</li> -<li class="isub1">d'odeurs, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a></li> -<li class="isub1">triple concentrés, <a href='#Page_244'>244</a>, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Face, painting the, practised by the Hebrew women, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Family pomade, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a>, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a></li> -<li class="isub1">vaseline pomade, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Farine d'amandes amères, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de noisette, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fat mixtures for hair pomades, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a>, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a></li> -<li class="isub1">paints, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a>, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fats, animal, preparation of, for the reception of perfumes, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> -<li class="isub1">for pomades and hair oils, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a></li> -<li class="isub1">protection of, against rancidity, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a></li> -<li class="isub1">purification of, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Federer's, C. F., test for peppermint oil, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fennel oil, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Filter, illustrated and described, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Filtration of expressed oils, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>-39</li> - -<li class="indx">Flake-white, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Florentine flasks, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Florida water, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a>, <a href='#Page_309'>309</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Flower brilliantine, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a></li> -<li class="isub1">extract, concentrated, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a></li> -<li class="isub1">fumigating essence, héliotrope, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a></li> -<li class="isub1">hair oil, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomades, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a></li> -<li class="isub2">extraction of, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>-225</li> - -<li class="indx">Flowers for the production of volatile oils, localities best suited for the cultivation of, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> -<li class="isub1">maceration or extraction of, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Formic ethyl ether, or ethyl formate, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_348" id="Page_348">[Pg 348]</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx">France, cultivation of the bitter orange in, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a></li> -<li class="isub1">extravagant use of rouge in, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li> -<li class="isub1">golden age for toilet articles in, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>-29</li> -<li class="isub1">introduction of the arts of the toilet into, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> -<li class="isub1">old process of maceration in, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Frangipani sachet powder, <a href='#Page_258'>258</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Frankincense, in ancient times, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>-21</li> -<li class="isub1">or olibanum, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li> - -<li class="indx">French and African geranium oils, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oil of turpentine, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a></li> -<li class="isub1">patchouli oil, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a></li> -<li class="isub1">perfumers, ancient, privileges of, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomades (flower pomades),</li> -<li class="isub2">fine, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fruit ethers, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a>-218</li> - -<li class="indx">Fuchsine, detection of alcohol by, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fumigating agents, dry, objections to, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a></li> -<li class="isub1">balsam, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a>, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a></li> -<li class="isub1">essences and vinegars, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a>-266</li> -<li class="isub2">pastilles, powders, etc., <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>-271</li> -<li class="isub1">lacquer, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a></li> -<li class="isub1">mode of, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a></li> -<li class="isub1">object of, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a></li> -<li class="isub1">paper, <a href='#Page_268'>268</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pastilles, <a href='#Page_268'>268</a>-270</li> -<li class="isub2">ordinary black, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a></li> -<li class="isub3">red, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a></li> -<li class="isub1">powder, ordinary, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a>, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a></li> -<li class="isub2">violet, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a></li> -<li class="isub1">powders, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a>-268</li> -<li class="isub1">prejudice against, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a></li> -<li class="isub1">vinegar, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a></li> -<li class="isub1">water, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Funnel, separatory, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Geraniol, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Geranium oil, East Indian, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Geranium oil, palmarosa oil, Turkish geranium oil, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a></li> -<li class="isub2">tincture, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oils, French and African, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li> - -<li class="indx">German curled-mint oil, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a></li> - -<li class="indx">German oil of turpentine, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a></li> -<li class="isub1">peppermint oil, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Germany, manufacture of rose oil in, from indigenous roses, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Glycerin cream, <a href='#Page_332'>332</a></li> -<li class="isub1">for dentifrices, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a></li> -<li class="isub1">gelée, <a href='#Page_332'>332</a></li> -<li class="isub1">hair tonic, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li> -<li class="isub1">jelly, <a href='#Page_332'>332</a>, <a href='#Page_333'>333</a></li> -<li class="isub1">perfumed with fruit odor, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a></li> -<li class="isub2">with rose odor, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Grape essence, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Greeks, practice of anointing the body by the, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Green camomile oil, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Guaiacum reaction, Hager's, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>-80</li> - -<li class="indx">Gummi myrrha, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>-176</li> -<li class="isub1">resina myrrha, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>-176</li> - -<li class="indx">Gum-resins, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Guy de Chanlios, receipts for cosmetics in the works of, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Hager's alcohol and sulphuric acid test, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hager's guaiacum reaction, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>-80</li> -<li class="isub1">tannin test, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>-71</li> - -<li class="indx">Hair, copper salts for dyeing the, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a>, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a></li> -<li class="isub1">dye, bismuth, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a></li> -<li class="isub2">black, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a></li> -<li class="isub2">brown, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a></li> -<li class="isub2">copper, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a></li> -<li class="isub2">potassium permanganate, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a></li> -<li class="isub2">requirements of a good, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a></li> -<li class="isub2">tannin, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a></li> -<li class="isub2">Turkish, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a></li> -<li class="isub2">walnut, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a></li> -<li class="isub1">dyes, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a>-322</li> -<li class="isub2">double, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a></li> -<li class="isub2">silver, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a></li> -<li class="isub2">single, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a></li> -<li class="isub2">use of, in ancient Rome, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> -<li class="isub1">green walnut shells for dyeing the, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a></li> -<li class="isub1">henna for dyeing the, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a>, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a></li> -<li class="isub1">iron salts for dyeing the, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a></li> -<li class="isub1">lead salts for dyeing the, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a></li> -<li class="isub1">nitrate of silver for dyeing the, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oil, alpine herb, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a></li> -<li class="isub2">burdock root, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_349" id="Page_349">[Pg 349]</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx">Hair oil, cheap, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a></li> -<li class="isub2">fine, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a>, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a></li> -<li class="isub2">flower, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a></li> -<li class="isub2">jasmine, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a></li> -<li class="isub2">macassar, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a></li> -<li class="isub2">mignonette, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a></li> -<li class="isub2">neroli, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a></li> -<li class="isub2">Peru, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a></li> -<li class="isub2">Peruvian bark, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a>, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a></li> -<li class="isub2">philocome, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a></li> -<li class="isub2">Portugal, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a></li> -<li class="isub2">rose, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a></li> -<li class="isub2">sultana, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a></li> -<li class="isub2">tonka, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a></li> -<li class="isub2">vanilla, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a></li> -<li class="isub2">vaseline, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a></li> -<li class="isub2">Victoria, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a></li> -<li class="isub2">violet, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a></li> -<li class="isub2">ylang-ylang, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oils, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a>-304</li> -<li class="isub2">and pomades, fats for, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a></li> -<li class="isub1">peroxide of hydrogen for bleaching the, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, fine, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a></li> -<li class="isub2">for promoting the growth of the, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomades, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>-300</li> -<li class="isub2">according to the German method, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a>-295</li> -<li class="isub2">coloring substances for, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a></li> -<li class="isub2">fine French, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a></li> -<li class="isub2">foundations for, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a>, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a></li> -<li class="isub2">hair oils, and hair tonics, hair dyes and depilatories, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a>-323</li> -<li class="isub1">potassium permanganate for dyeing the, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pyrogallic acid for dyeing the, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a></li> -<li class="isub1">stain, pyrogallic, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tonics, <a href='#Page_308'>308</a>-314</li> - -<li class="indx">Hands, chapped, preparations for, <a href='#Page_333'>333</a>, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a></li> -<li class="isub1">wash for the, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hebrews, ancient, perfume-substances known to the, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Héliotrope pomade, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a>, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a></li> -<li class="isub1">sachet powder, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Heliotropin or piperonal, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>-195</li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Henna-flower, use of the, for perfuming, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Henna for dyeing the hair, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a>, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Herb pomade, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Herodotus on the mode of gaining olibanum, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Heyl's distilling apparatus, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a></li> -<li class="isub1">extracting apparatus, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a>-57</li> - -<li class="indx">Historical notice of perfumery, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>-30</li> - -<li class="indx">Hitchin and Mitchan lavender oil, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Honey almond paste, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a></li> -<li class="isub1">water, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hoppe's nitroprusside of copper test, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>-78</li> - -<li class="indx">Horse fat, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a>, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hübl's iodine method, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hufeland's, Dr., tooth-powder, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tooth-soap, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a>, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Huile antique à la rose, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a></li> -<li class="isub1">au jasmin, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Huiles antiques, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hydrogen, peroxide of, for bleaching the hair, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Ice pomade, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Indian balsam, white, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Infusion or maceration, process of, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a>-60</li> - -<li class="indx">Iodine method, Hübl's, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a></li> -<li class="isub1">test with, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Iron salts for dyeing the hair, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Italy, perfumes and cosmetics in, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Japanese peppermint oil, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Jasmin, essence de, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Jasmine hair oil, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oil or oil of jessamine, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Jessamine, oil of, or jasmine oil, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Jockey club sachet, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Juniper-berry tincture, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Juniper odor, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oil, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Kabardin musk, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kahol, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Karsi, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kienoel, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kohol, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kopher, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_350" id="Page_350">[Pg 350]</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx">Kremel's saponification test, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Krinochrom, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Krummholz oil, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kypros, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Lacquer, fumigating, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lait, d'amandes amères, <a href='#Page_327'>327</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lait de lys, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de rose, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a>, <a href='#Page_327'>327</a></li> -<li class="isub1">virginal, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lanolin pomade, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a>, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Latschenoel, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lavande Montblanc, essence de, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lavender odor solid perfume, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oil, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a></li> -<li class="isub2">adulterations of, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a></li> -<li class="isub2">tincture, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lead salts for dyeing the hair, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a></li> -<li class="isub1">white, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Leather, perfumed, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lebonah, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>-21</li> - -<li class="indx">Lederin, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lemon essence, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> -<li class="isub1">grass-oil tincture, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oil, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>-121</li> -<li class="isub2">conversion of oil of turpentine into, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> -<li class="isub2">tincture, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Licari oil, linaloë oil, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lilac oil, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lily milk, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of the valley sachet powder, <a href='#Page_258'>258</a></li> -<li class="isub2">vaseline pomade, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Limes, oil of, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Linaloë oil, licari oil, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lip-salve, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lip-salves and cold creams, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a>-335</li> - -<li class="indx">Liquid ambar, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a></li> -<li class="isub1">paints, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a>-342</li> -<li class="isub1">rouge, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a>, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a></li> -<li class="isub1">storax, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>-171</li> - -<li class="indx">Locock's lotion for the hair, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lotion, dandruff, <a href='#Page_312'>312</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Locock's, for the hair, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a></li> -<li class="isub1">shampoo, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lubah, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>-21</li> - -<li class="indx">Lunar caustic for dyeing the hair, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Macassar hair oil, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mace oil, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Maceration or extraction of flowers, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a></li> -<li class="isub1">or infusion, process of, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a>-60</li> - -<li class="indx">Magnesia, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mandarin oil, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Marinello's work on "Cosmetics for Ladies," <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Marjoram oils, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Maumené's test, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Meal, almond, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a></li> -<li class="isub1">nut, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Meals and pastes, perfumed, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a>-331</li> - -<li class="indx">Melanogène, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Melon essence, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Menthol, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pungent, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Messina, yield of lemon oil in, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Methyl salicylate, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a></li> -<li class="isub1">artificial production of, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mierzinski's formulæ for bay rum, <a href='#Page_313'>313</a>, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mignonette hair oil, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oil, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a></li> -<li class="isub1">vaseline pomade, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Milk, almond, <a href='#Page_327'>327</a></li> -<li class="isub1">lily, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a></li> -<li class="isub1">rose, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a>, <a href='#Page_327'>327</a></li> -<li class="isub1">virginal, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Millefleurs fumigating pastilles, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mint, curled, oil of, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mirbane, oil of, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mitchan and Hitchin lavender oil, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Monfalcone's, D., distilling apparatus for lemon oil, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>-120</li> - -<li class="indx">Moschus ex vesicis, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Moses, the holy oil prescribed by, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mouche or beauty patch, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mouth- and tooth-waters, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a>-277</li> -<li class="isub1">waters and dentifrices, coloring substances for, <a href='#Page_272'>272</a></li> -<li class="isub1">dentifrices, etc., <a href='#Page_272'>272</a>-283</li> - -<li class="indx">Musk, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>-184</li> -<li class="isub1">adulterations of, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a></li> -<li class="isub1">artificial, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a></li> -<li class="isub1">fumigating pastilles, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a>, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_351" id="Page_351">[Pg 351]</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx">Musk-rat, American, musk of the, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> -<li class="isub1">root or sumbul-root tincture, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> -<li class="isub1">sachet powder, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a></li> -<li class="isub1">sac, how to open a, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a></li> -<li class="isub1">sacs, illustrated and described, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a></li> -<li class="isub1">seed or abelmosk tincture, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> -<li class="isub1">substitutes for, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Myristicin, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Myron, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Myrrh, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>-176</li> -<li class="isub1">adulterations of, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oil, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a></li> -<li class="isub2">tincture, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tooth-tincture, <a href='#Page_276'>276</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Myrrha electa, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a></li> -<li class="isub1">in sortis, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a></li> -<li class="isub1">vulgaris, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Myrrhin, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Myrrhol, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Myrtol, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Nail-powder, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Neroli hair oil, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Neroli oil, adulterations of, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a></li> -<li class="isub1">or orange-flower oil, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>-129</li> -<li class="isub2">tincture, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> -<li class="isub1">petale, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a></li> -<li class="isub1">vaseline pomade, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a></li> - -<li class="indx">New-mown hay fumigating powder, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a>, <a href='#Page_268'>268</a></li> -<li class="isub1">sachet powder, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Nitrate of bismuth, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of silver for dyeing the hair, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Nitrobenzol, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>-200</li> -<li class="isub1">adulterations of, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Nitroprusside of copper test, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>-78</li> - -<li class="indx">Nitrous ether, or ethyl nitrite, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>-214</li> - -<li class="indx">Nut meal, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Nutmeg oils, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Odontine, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a></li> -<li class="isub1">or tooth-paste, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a>, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a></li> -<li class="isub1">paste, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Odor and taste, testing the, of volatile oils, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Odors, compound, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>-245</li> - -<li class="indx">Oil, castor, determination of, in volatile oil, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a></li> -<li class="isub1">fat, adulteration with, of volatile oil, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a></li> -<li class="isub1">the holy, prescribed by Moses, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a></li> -<li class="isub1">volatile, apparatus for determining the percentage of, in a vegetable substance, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> -<li class="isub2">for the distillation of, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>-46</li> -<li class="isub1">Planchon's procedure for the recognition of a, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a>-86</li> -<li class="isub1">separation of the, and water, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a></li> -<li class="isub1">testing the odor of, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a></li> -<li class="isub2">the taste of, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Oils, fat, treatment of, with benzoin, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a>, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oxygenated, behavior of, towards nitroprusside of copper, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>-78</li> -<li class="isub1">perfuming of, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a></li> -<li class="isub1">volatile, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>-65</li> -<li class="isub2">ancient mode of distilling, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> -<li class="isub2">apparatus for the extraction of, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>-57</li> -<li class="isub2">characteristics of, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li> -<li class="isub2">concentrated, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> -<li class="isub2">detection of adulterations of, with an oil of lower quality, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>-83</li> -<li class="isub2">distillation of, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>-48</li> -<li class="isub2">division of, with reference to the guaiacum reaction, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a></li> -<li class="isub2">expression of, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>-39</li> -<li class="isub2">extraction of, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>-58</li> -<li class="isub2">extra strong, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> -<li class="isub2">for Cologne water, durability of, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a>, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a></li> -<li class="isub2">localities best suited for the cultivation of flowers for the production of, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> -<li class="isub2">modes of obtaining, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>-65</li> -<li class="isub2">or essential, occurrence of, in plants, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_352" id="Page_352">[Pg 352]</a></span></li> -<li class="isub2">patented, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> -<li class="isub2">principal divisions of, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li> -<li class="isub2">solubility of, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> -<li class="isub2">storage of, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a></li> -<li class="isub2">testing of, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>-86</li> -<li class="isub2">the, used in perfumery, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>-154</li> - -<li class="indx">Ointment makers, ancient, condition of, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> -<li class="isub1">rose, according to Dioscorides, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ointments, directions for preparing, in ancient works, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> -<li class="isub1">foreign, edict against, in Rome, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a></li> -<li class="isub1">for the different parts of the body used by the Athenians, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Oleum abietes, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a></li> -<li class="isub2">canadensis, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a></li> -<li class="isub1">amygdalæ amaræ, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>-93</li> -<li class="isub1">anisi, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a></li> -<li class="isub1">anthemidis, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a></li> -<li class="isub1">anthos, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a></li> -<li class="isub1">cajeputi, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a></li> -<li class="isub1">carui, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a>, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a></li> -<li class="isub1">caryophylli, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>-110</li> -<li class="isub1">cassiæ, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a></li> -<li class="isub1">cedri, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a></li> -<li class="isub1">cinnamoni ceylonici, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a></li> -<li class="isub1">citri, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a></li> -<li class="isub1">eucalypti, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a></li> -<li class="isub2">australe, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a></li> -<li class="isub1">florum aurantii, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>-129</li> -<li class="isub1">fœniculi, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a></li> -<li class="isub1">gaultheriæ, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>-153</li> -<li class="isub1">geranii, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li> -<li class="isub1">iridis, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a></li> -<li class="isub1">iva ranchusa, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a></li> -<li class="isub1">juniperi, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a></li> -<li class="isub1">laurocerasi, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a></li> -<li class="isub1">lavandulæ, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a></li> -<li class="isub1">ligni rhodii, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a></li> -<li class="isub2">sandali, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a></li> -<li class="isub2">sassafras, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>-147</li> -<li class="isub1">limettæ, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a></li> -<li class="isub1">limonis, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>-121</li> -<li class="isub1">macidis, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a></li> -<li class="isub1">menthæ crispæ, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a></li> -<li class="isub2">piperitæ, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>-135</li> -<li class="isub2">pulegii, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a></li> -<li class="isub1">myrthæ, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a></li> -<li class="isub1">naphæ, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>-129</li> -<li class="isub1">neroli, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>-129</li> -<li class="isub1">nucistæ æthereum, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a></li> -<li class="isub1">petit grain, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pimenta, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pini, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a></li> -<li class="isub2">pumilionis, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a></li> -<li class="isub1">résédæ, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a></li> -<li class="isub1">rosemarini, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a></li> -<li class="isub1">templinum, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a></li> -<li class="isub1">unonæ, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Olibanum in ancient times, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>-21</li> -<li class="isub1">or frankincense, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Opiat liquide pour les dents, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a>, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Opopanax, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oil, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a></li> -<li class="isub2">tincture, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Orange, bitter, localities for the cultivation of the, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a></li> -<li class="isub1">essence, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> -<li class="isub1">flower oil, or neroli oil, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>-129</li> -<li class="isub2">water, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a></li> -<li class="isub1">fumigating powder, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a></li> -<li class="isub1">peel oil, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a></li> -<li class="isub1">sachet powder, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Oriental flower fumigating essence, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Orris-root oil, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a></li> -<li class="isub2">liquid, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a></li> -<li class="isub2">tincture, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Orris stearoptene, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Paint, fine red, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a></li> -<li class="isub1">ordinary red, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a>, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a></li> -<li class="isub1">red stick, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a></li> -<li class="isub1">white, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a></li> -<li class="isub2">liquid, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a></li> -<li class="isub2">stick, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Paints, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>-342</li> -<li class="isub1">fat, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a>, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a></li> -<li class="isub1">liquid, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a>-342</li> -<li class="isub1">preparation of, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>-339</li> -<li class="isub1">pulverulent, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a></li> -<li class="isub1">solid, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a>-340</li> -<li class="isub1">use of, by the Roman ladies, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Palermo, yield of lemon oil in, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Palmarosa oil, geranium oil, Turkish geranium oil, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Paper, fumigating, <a href='#Page_268'>268</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Paraffine, solid perfumes with, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a>, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_353" id="Page_353">[Pg 353]</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx">Paraguay, manufacture of petit-grain oil in, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Paris, annual sale of perfumery in, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Paste, honey almond, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pastes and meals, perfumed, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a>-331</li> -<li class="isub1">and powders for the teeth, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a>-283</li> - -<li class="indx">Pastilles, fumigating, <a href='#Page_268'>268</a>-270</li> -<li class="isub1">powders, essences, etc., for fumigating, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>-271</li> - -<li class="indx">Patchouli-camphor, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Patchouli extract, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a></li> -<li class="isub1">leaves, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oil, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>-132</li> -<li class="isub2">tincture, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> -<li class="isub1">sachet powder, <a href='#Page_258'>258</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pate d'amandes au miel, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Peach essence, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> -<li class="isub1">kernels, use of, in the fabrication of bitter-almond oil, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pear essence, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> -<li class="isub1">ether, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Penang patchouli oil, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Peppermint oil, adulterants of, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oils, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>-136</li> -<li class="isub2">American, English, and German, mode of distinguishing, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pepper, perfume-substance from, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Perfumed meals and pastes, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a>-331</li> - -<li class="indx">Perfume-materials, artificial, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>-218</li> -<li class="isub2">for the manufacture of perfumery, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>-65</li> -<li class="isub1">substances, consumption of, by the ancient Romans, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> -<li class="isub2">consumption of, by the early nations of the Orient, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a></li> -<li class="isub2">from the animal kingdom, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>-188</li> - -<li class="indx">Perfumeries and cosmetics in the Middle Ages, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Perfumer, the actual flower garden of the, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></li> -<li class="isub1">what the art of the, consists in, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Perfumers, French, ancient privileges of, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Perfumery, annual sale of, in Paris, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> -<li class="isub1">historical notice of, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>-30</li> -<li class="isub1">perfume-substances for themanufacture of, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>-65</li> -<li class="isub1">the volatile oils used in, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>-154</li> -<li class="isub1">use of, in England, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Perfumes, alcoholic, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>-255</li> -<li class="isub1">and cosmetics in Italy, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> -<li class="isub1">dry, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a>-261</li> -<li class="isub1">preparation of animal fats for the reception of, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> -<li class="isub1">solid, with paraffine, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a>, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Peroxide of hydrogen for bleaching the hair, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Peru balsam, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>-166</li> -<li class="isub2">adulterants of, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a></li> -<li class="isub2">oil, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a></li> -<li class="isub2">statistics of, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a></li> -<li class="isub2">tests for, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>-166</li> -<li class="isub2">tincture, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a></li> -<li class="isub2">white, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a></li> -<li class="isub1">hair oil, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Peruvian balsam, white, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a></li> -<li class="isub1">bark hair oil, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a>, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Petit-grain oil, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Petroleum-ether, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a></li> -<li class="isub1">as testing agent for Peru balsam, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Philocome hair oil, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pimento oil, or oil of allspice, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pineapple essence, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a></li> -<li class="isub1">ether, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pine-leaf oil, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pine odor for atomizing, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oil, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Piperate, potassium, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Piperine, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Piperonal, how obtained, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a></li> -<li class="isub1">or heliotropin, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>-195</li> - -<li class="indx">Piver's apparatus for maceration, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a></li> -<li class="isub1">for the absorption process, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Planchon's procedure for the recognition of a volatile oil, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a>-86</li> - -<li class="indx">Plants, families of, richest in volatile oils, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></li> -<li class="isub1">occurrence of volatile oils in, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pliny's account of olibanum, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a></li> -<li class="isub1">"Historia naturalis," <a href='#Page_23'>23</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Plum essence, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_354" id="Page_354">[Pg 354]</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx">Plutarch on the extravagant use of ointments in Rome, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Paraffin ice pomade, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Poley oil, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pomade, apple, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a></li> -<li class="isub1">bear's grease, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a></li> -<li class="isub1">beef-marrow, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a></li> -<li class="isub1">benzoin, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a></li> -<li class="isub1">black wax, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> -<li class="isub1">blonde wax, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> -<li class="isub1">bouquet vaseline, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a></li> -<li class="isub1">brown wax, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a>, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> -<li class="isub1">castor oil, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a></li> -<li class="isub1">cheap, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a></li> -<li class="isub2">wax, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Densdorf, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a></li> -<li class="isub1">emperor, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a></li> -<li class="isub1">extra fine vaseline, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> -<li class="isub1">family, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a>, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a></li> -<li class="isub2">vaseline, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a></li> -<li class="isub1">fine, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a>, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a></li> -<li class="isub2">vaseline (yellow), <a href='#Page_297'>297</a></li> -<li class="isub1">for promoting the growth of the hair, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a></li> -<li class="isub1">héliotrope, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a>, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a></li> -<li class="isub1">herb, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a></li> -<li class="isub1">ice, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a></li> -<li class="isub1">jasmine, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a></li> -<li class="isub1">lanolin, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a>, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a></li> -<li class="isub1">lily of the valley vaseline, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a></li> -<li class="isub1">macassar, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a></li> -<li class="isub1">mignonette, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a></li> -<li class="isub2">vaseline, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a></li> -<li class="isub1">neroli, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a></li> -<li class="isub2">vaseline, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oriental, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a></li> -<li class="isub1">paraffin ice, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Portugal, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a></li> -<li class="isub2">vaseline, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a></li> -<li class="isub1">princess, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a>, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a></li> -<li class="isub1">quinine, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a></li> -<li class="isub2">(imitation), <a href='#Page_290'>290</a></li> -<li class="isub1">resin, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Rogers's, for producing a beard, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a></li> -<li class="isub1">rose, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a></li> -<li class="isub2">wax, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> -<li class="isub1">salicylic, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a></li> -<li class="isub1">stick, manufacture of, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a>, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> -<li class="isub1">strawberry, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tonka, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a>, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a></li> -<li class="isub1">vanilla, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a></li> -<li class="isub1">vaseline (red), <a href='#Page_297'>297</a></li> -<li class="isub2">(white), <a href='#Page_297'>297</a></li> -<li class="isub2">foundations for, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Victoria, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a></li> -<li class="isub2">vaseline, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a>, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> -<li class="isub1">violet, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Virginia vaseline, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a></li> -<li class="isub1">walnut, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pomades, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>-300</li> -<li class="isub1">according to the German method, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a>-295</li> -<li class="isub1">and hair oils, fats for, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a></li> -<li class="isub1">coloring substances for, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a></li> -<li class="isub1">designation of the qualities of, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a></li> -<li class="isub1">foundations for, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a>, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a></li> -<li class="isub1">resin, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> -<li class="isub1">stick, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a>-300</li> -<li class="isub2">foundations for, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> -<li class="isub1">vaseline, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>-298</li> -<li class="isub1">wax, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pommade à l'acacia, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a></li> -<li class="isub1">à la fleur d'orange, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a></li> -<li class="isub1">à la rose, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a></li> -<li class="isub1">à l'héliotrope, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Portugal hair oil, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oil, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a></li> -<li class="isub2">tincture, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a></li> -<li class="isub1">vaseline pomade, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Potassium permanganate for dyeing the hair, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a></li> -<li class="isub2">hair dye, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a></li> -<li class="isub1">piperate, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Poudre d'Algérine, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a>, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de corail, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de riz à la rose, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a>, <a href='#Page_330'>330</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de riz à la violette, <a href='#Page_330'>330</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de riz bouquet, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de riz héliotrope, <a href='#Page_330'>330</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de riz ixora, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de riz muguet, <a href='#Page_330'>330</a>, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de riz orange, <a href='#Page_330'>330</a></li> -<li class="isub1">dentifrice, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Powder for coloring intensely red, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a></li> -<li class="isub1">new-mown hay fumigating, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a>, <a href='#Page_268'>268</a></li> -<li class="isub1">orange fumigating, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a></li> -<li class="isub1">ordinary fumigating, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a>, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a></li> -<li class="isub1">rose fumigating, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Powders, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a></li> -<li class="isub1">and pastes for the teeth, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a>-283</li> -<li class="isub1">fumigating, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a>-268</li> -<li class="isub1">mixtures for, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pastilles, and essences, etc., for fumigating, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a>-271<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_355" id="Page_355">[Pg 355]</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx">Preston salt, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Princess pomade, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a>, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pyrogallic acid for dyeing the hair, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a></li> -<li class="isub1">hair stain, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Quinine pomade, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a></li> -<li class="isub2">(imitation), <a href='#Page_290'>290</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tooth-water, <a href='#Page_276'>276</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Raspberry essence, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rastikopetra, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Récamier cream, <a href='#Page_333'>333</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Red paint, fine, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a></li> -<li class="isub1">ordinary, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a>, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a></li> -<li class="isub1">stick paint, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a></li> -<li class="isub1">thyme oil, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Reggio, mode of manufacturing bergamot oil in, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Réséda sachet powder, <a href='#Page_258'>258</a>, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Resin pomade, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomades, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Resins and balsams, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>-177</li> -<li class="isub1">definition of, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a></li> -<li class="isub1">diffusion of, in the vegetable kingdom, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a></li> -<li class="isub1">elementary constituents of, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a></li> -<li class="isub1">hard, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a></li> -<li class="isub1">soft, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rhazes, receipts for cosmetics in the writings of, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rhodium oil, or rosewood oil, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rhusma, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Righini's method for testing bergamot oil, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rogers's pomade for producing a beard, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Romans, ancient, consumption of perfume-substances by the, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rome, introduction of ointments in, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Plutarch on the extravagant use of ointments in, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rosa alba, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a></li> -<li class="isub1">damascena, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rose bandoline, <a href='#Page_305'>305</a></li> -<li class="isub1">flower fumigating essence, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a></li> -<li class="isub1">fumigating pastilles, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a></li> -<li class="isub2">powder, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a></li> -<li class="isub1">hair oil, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a></li> -<li class="isub1">milk, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a>, <a href='#Page_327'>327</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oil, adulterants of, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a></li> -<li class="isub2">adulteration of, in Bulgaria <a href='#Page_140'>140</a></li> -<li class="isub2">determination of spermaceti in, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a></li> -<li class="isub2">insulation and determination of the stearoptene in, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a></li> -<li class="isub2">judging the genuineness of, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a></li> -<li class="isub2">liquid, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a></li> -<li class="isub2">or attar of roses, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>-144</li> -<li class="isub2">principal localities of production of, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a></li> -<li class="isub2">test for, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a></li> -<li class="isub2">used in Bulgaria, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a></li> -<li class="isub2">tincture, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a>, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a></li> -<li class="isub1">ointment, according to Dioscorides, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a></li> -<li class="isub1">wax pomade, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rosemary oil, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Roses, cream of, <a href='#Page_333'>333</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rosewood oil, or rhodium oil, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rouge, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a>, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a></li> -<li class="isub1">en feuilles, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a></li> -<li class="isub1">extravagant use of, in France, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li> -<li class="isub1">liquid, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a>, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a></li> -<li class="isub1">moulding of, into sticks, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a></li> -<li class="isub1">stick, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Russian or Siberian castor, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a></li> -<li class="isub1">musk, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Sachet à la rose, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a></li> -<li class="isub1">à la violette, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a></li> -<li class="isub1">aux millefleurs, <a href='#Page_258'>258</a></li> -<li class="isub1">jockey club, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a></li> -<li class="isub1">powder, ess-bouquet, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a></li> -<li class="isub2">Frangipani, <a href='#Page_258'>258</a></li> -<li class="isub2">héliotrope, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a></li> -<li class="isub2">lily of the valley, <a href='#Page_258'>258</a></li> -<li class="isub2">musk, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a></li> -<li class="isub2">new-mown hay, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a></li> -<li class="isub2">orange, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a></li> -<li class="isub2">patchouli, <a href='#Page_258'>258</a></li> -<li class="isub2">réséda, <a href='#Page_258'>258</a>, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a></li> -<li class="isub2">Victoria, <a href='#Page_258'>258</a></li> -<li class="isub2">ylang-ylang, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a></li> -<li class="isub1">powders, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a>-259</li> - -<li class="indx">Safrene, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Safrol, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a></li> - -<li class="indx">St. John's bread or carob, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Salicylic pomade, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Salts, smelling, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a>, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_356" id="Page_356">[Pg 356]</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx">Salve, Cyprian, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sandal-wood oil, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Saudarac, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sandaracin, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Saponaceous tooth-wash, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Saponification number, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a></li> -<li class="isub1">test, Kremel's, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sassafras oil, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>-147</li> - -<li class="indx">Sartorius ylang-ylang oil, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Schimmel & Co.'s directions for bay rum, <a href='#Page_313'>313</a></li> -<li class="isub1">directions for the quantitative determination of cinnamaldehyde, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>-106</li> -<li class="isub1">improved still, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>-46</li> - -<li class="indx">Separator-funnel, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Shampoo liquid, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a>, <a href='#Page_312'>312</a></li> -<li class="isub1">lotion, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Siberian or Russian castor, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a></li> -<li class="isub1">musk, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Silver, nitrate of, for dyeing the hair, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Single hair dyes, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Siphon still, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Skin cosmetics, <a href='#Page_324'>324</a>-328</li> - -<li class="indx">Smelling salts, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a>, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Soap for dentifrices, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Solid paints, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a>-340</li> - -<li class="indx">Solubility of volatile oils, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sozodont, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spanish marjoram oil, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spermaceti, determination of, in rose oil, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spike oil, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spinach extract, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spirit of wine, or alcohol, detection of, in volatile oil, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>-71</li> - -<li class="indx">Sponge-process for obtaining lemon oil, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Stahl's tooth-tincture, <a href='#Page_276'>276</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Star anise oil, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Stearoptene, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> -<li class="isub1">of rose oil, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Stick paint, white, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, manufacture of, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a>, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomader, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a>-300</li> -<li class="isub2">foundations for, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> -<li class="isub1">rouge, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Still, for direct steam, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a></li> -<li class="isub1">improved, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>-46</li> - -<li class="indx">Still, ordinary, conversion of, into use with steam, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a></li> -<li class="isub1">siphon, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Stohman's test for oil of cloves, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Storax, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>-172</li> -<li class="isub1">American, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a></li> -<li class="isub1">in grains, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a></li> -<li class="isub1">liquid, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>-171</li> -<li class="isub2">adulterations of, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a></li> -<li class="isub1">ordinary, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Strawberry essence, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li> -<li class="isub1">ether, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Styracin, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Styrax calamitus, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a></li> -<li class="isub1">vulgaris, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Styrol, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sultana hair oil, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sumbul root, or musk-root tincture, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Tannin hair dye, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Taste and odor, testing the, of volatile oils, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tea hair tonic, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Teinture Chinoise (Kohol), <a href='#Page_319'>319</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Orientale (Karsi), <a href='#Page_319'>319</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Templin oil, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Terpenes, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> -<li class="isub1">adulterations of volatile oil with, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Terpilene, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Testing volatile oils, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>-86</li> - -<li class="indx">Theophrastus's work "On Perfumes," <a href='#Page_23'>23</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Thibet or Oriental musk, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Thymene, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Thyme oil, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a></li> -<li class="isub1">from the field thyme, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Thymol, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tooth-paste, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tooth-powder, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tooth-water, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tincture, ambergris, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a></li> -<li class="isub1">angelica-root, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> -<li class="isub1">balm-oil, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> -<li class="isub1">basil-oil, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> -<li class="isub1">benzoin, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a></li> -<li class="isub1">bergamot-oil, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> -<li class="isub1">bitter almond-oil, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li> -<li class="isub1">canango-oil, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_357" id="Page_357">[Pg 357]</a></span></li> -<li class="isub1">cassia-oil, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> -<li class="isub1">castor, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a></li> -<li class="isub1">cedar-oil, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> -<li class="isub1">cinnamon-oil, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> -<li class="isub1">citronella-oil, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> -<li class="isub1">civet, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a></li> -<li class="isub1">clove-oil, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> -<li class="isub1">cumarin, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a></li> -<li class="isub1">eucalyptus-oil, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> -<li class="isub1">geranium-oil, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> -<li class="isub1">heliotropin, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a></li> -<li class="isub1">juniper-berry, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a></li> -<li class="isub1">lavender-oil, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> -<li class="isub1">lemon-grass oil, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> -<li class="isub1">lemon-oil, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> -<li class="isub1">licari-oil, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> -<li class="isub1">musk, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a></li> -<li class="isub2">root or sumbul-root, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> -<li class="isub2">seed or abelmosk, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> -<li class="isub1">myrrh, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li> -<li class="isub2">oil, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> -<li class="isub1">neroli-oil, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> -<li class="isub1">olibanum, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li> -<li class="isub1">opopanax, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li> -<li class="isub2">oil, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> -<li class="isub1">orris-root, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li> -<li class="isub2">oil, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> -<li class="isub1">patchouli-oil, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Peru-balsam, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a></li> -<li class="isub1">petit-grain-oil, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pine-leaf-oil, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Portugal-oil, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li> -<li class="isub1">rose-oil, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a>, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a></li> -<li class="isub1">sandal-wood-oil, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li> -<li class="isub1">storax, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tolu-balsam, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a>, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tonka-bean, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a>, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a></li> -<li class="isub1">vanilla, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a></li> -<li class="isub1">vanillin, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a></li> -<li class="isub1">verbena-oil, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li> -<li class="isub1">vitivert, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a></li> -<li class="isub2">oil, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li> -<li class="isub1">wintergreen-oil, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li> -<li class="isub1">ylang-ylang-oil, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tinctures and extracts, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a>-237</li> -<li class="isub1">apparatus for the preparation of, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a>, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Toilet articles, golden age for, in France, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>-29</li> -<li class="isub1">arts of the, in ancient times, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li> -<li class="isub1">introduction of the arts of the, into France, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> -<li class="isub1">vinegar, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tolu balsam, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>-168</li> -<li class="isub1">new variety of, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tolu balsam, tincture, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a>, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Toluene, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tonka beans, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a>, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a></li> -<li class="isub1">bean tincture, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a>, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a></li> -<li class="isub1">hair oil, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a>, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tonkin musk, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a></li> -<li class="isub1">characteristics of, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tooth-and mouth-waters, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a>-277</li> -<li class="isub1">paste or odontine, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a>, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pastes and tooth-powders, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a>-283</li> -<li class="isub1">powder, Dr. Hufeland's, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a></li> -<li class="isub1">powders and tooth-pastes, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a>-283</li> -<li class="isub2">preparation of, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a></li> -<li class="isub1">soap, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a></li> -<li class="isub2">Dr. Hufeland's, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a>, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, Dr. Stahl's, <a href='#Page_276'>276</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tinctures, use of, <a href='#Page_276'>276</a>, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Trotula, works of, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Turkish geranium oil, palmarosa oil, geranium oil, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a></li> -<li class="isub1">hair dye, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Turpentine, oil of, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>-150</li> -<li class="isub1">conversion of, into lemon oil, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">United States, adaptation of some districts of, for the cultivation of plants, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Valerianic ether, or amyl valerate, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>-216</li> -<li class="isub1">ethyl ether, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vanilla, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a></li> -<li class="isub1">hair oil, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vanillin, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>-198</li> -<li class="isub1">adulteration of, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a></li> -<li class="isub1">preparation of, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a>, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vaseline cold cream, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a></li> -<li class="isub1">hair oil, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, extra fine, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> -<li class="isub2">fine (yellow), <a href='#Page_297'>297</a></li> -<li class="isub2">(red), <a href='#Page_297'>297</a></li> -<li class="isub2">(white), <a href='#Page_297'>297</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomades, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>-298</li> -<li class="isub2">foundations for, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Venetian oil of turpentine, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Verbena oil, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vetiver oil, or vitivert oil, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_358" id="Page_358">[Pg 358]</a></span></li> - -<li class="indx">Victoria hair oil, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a></li> -<li class="isub1">sachet powder, <a href='#Page_258'>258</a></li> -<li class="isub1">vaseline pomade, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a>, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vinaigre de Bully, <a href='#Page_324'>324</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de toilette, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de toilette à l'héliotrope, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de toilette à la rose, <a href='#Page_324'>324</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de toilette à la violette, <a href='#Page_324'>324</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de toilette orange, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vinegar, aromatic, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a></li> -<li class="isub1">fumigating, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a></li> -<li class="isub1">toilet, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vinegars and essences, fumigating, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a>-266</li> - -<li class="indx">Violet-flower fumigating essence, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Violet fumigating pastilles, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a></li> -<li class="isub2">powder, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a></li> -<li class="isub1">hair oil, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a></li> -<li class="isub1">mouth-water, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oil of, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tooth-powder, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Virginal milk, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Virginia vaseline pomade, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vitivert-oil tincture, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vitivert, or vetiver oil, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Volatile oil, apparatus for determining the percentage of, in a vegetable substance, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> -<li class="isub1">apparatus for the distillation of, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>-46</li> -<li class="isub1">Planchon's procedure for the recognition of a, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a>-86</li> -<li class="isub1">separation of the, and <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a></li> -<li class="isub1">testing the odor of, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a></li> -<li class="isub2">the taste of, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oils, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>-65</li> -<li class="isub2">ancient method of distilling, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> -<li class="isub2">apparatus for the extraction of, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>-57</li> -<li class="isub2">characteristics of, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li> -<li class="isub2">concentrated, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> -<li class="isub2">detection of adulterations of, with an oil of lower quality, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>-83</li> -<li class="isub2">distillation of, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>-48</li> -<li class="isub2">division of, with reference to the guaiacum reaction, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a></li> -<li class="isub2">expression of, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>-39</li> -<li class="isub2">extraction of, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>-58</li> -<li class="isub2">extra strong, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> -<li class="isub2">for Cologne water, durability of, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a>, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a></li> -<li class="isub2">localities best suited for the cultivation of flowers for the production of, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> -<li class="isub2">modes of obtaining, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>-65</li> -<li class="isub2">patented, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> -<li class="isub2">principal divisions of, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li> -<li class="isub2">solubility of, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> -<li class="isub2">storage of, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a></li> -<li class="isub2">testing of, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>-86</li> -<li class="isub2">the, used in perfumery, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>-154</li> -<li class="isub1">or essential oils, occurrence of, in plants, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Walnut hair dye, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomade, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a></li> -<li class="isub1">shells, green, for dyeing the hair, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Washes, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a>-328</li> - -<li class="indx">Wash for the hands, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Water, fumigating, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a></li> -<li class="isub1">separation of the, and oil, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Wax pomade, cheap, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li> -<li class="isub1">pomades, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li> - -<li class="indx">White lead, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a></li> -<li class="isub1">liquid paint, <a href='#Page_341'>341</a></li> -<li class="isub1">paint, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a></li> -<li class="isub1">rose solid perfume, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a></li> -<li class="isub1">smelling salts, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a>, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a></li> -<li class="isub1">stick paint, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a></li> -<li class="isub1">thyme oil, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tooth-powder, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Williams, F. R., utilization of Maumené's test by, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Wintergreen oil, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>-153</li> -<li class="isub1">adulteration of, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Ylang-ylang hair oil, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a></li> -<li class="isub1">oil, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a></li> -<li class="isub1">tincture, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li> -<li class="isub1">sachet powder, <a href='#Page_257'>257</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Yunnan musk, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Zibethum, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Zinc white, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a></li></ul> -</div> - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Paschkis, Kosmetik für Aerzte. Wien, 1890.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Gli ornamenti delle donne, tratti dalle seriture d'una Reina -greca, par M. Giovanni Marinello in Venetia.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Hager, Chemische Reactionen zur Nachweise des Terpentinoels -in den aetherischen Oelen, etc. Berlin, 1885.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> Pharm. Centralh. 1888, S. 482 u. 555; 1889, S. 133.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> Compare Kremel's observations, p. 91.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> The manner of expelling the ether is of great influence upon -the accuracy of the result. Though the non-aldehydes volatilize -with difficulty, they are volatile, and hence the ether must be -quickly expelled, and the beaker not allowed to stand longer upon -the water-bath than necessary for the evaporation of the ether.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> See later on under "Balsams and Resins."</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> This, however, applies only to Bulgarian oil; French and -Saxon rose oils have a greenish color.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> Dingler's Polyt. Journ., 184, 367.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> Dingler's Polyt. Journ., 180, 77.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> The figures for free acids refer to cubic centimeters of cold, -saturated, alcoholic solutions.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> By "best alcohol" is understood rectified alcohol of 95 to 97 -per cent.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> Compare patchouli oil, p. 130.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> For all the tinctures, 95 to 97 per cent. alcohol of the best -quality is to be used.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> By pine-leaf oil is understood pine oil or dwarf-pine oil. See -p. 149.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> The better quality of oil from the East Indian wood is to be used.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> Bulgarian rose oil is generally designated "Turkish rose oil."</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> This spinach extract unfortunately bleaches very rapidly -when exposed to light, and the extraits colored with it acquire a -dirty-brown color. Hence it is recommended to use the "green -tincture," which can be purchased from the larger manufactories of -volatile oils.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> The so-called liquid orris-root oil is not pure orris-root oil, but -generally a distillate of orris-root with bergamot oil; there are, however, -also products in which the orris root is distilled with copaiba -balsam oil and cedar oil.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> Genuine horse fat is obtained from the upper portion of the -neck of the horse.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> A pomade containing musk cannot be used by everyone, since -in nervous persons it may readily cause headache.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> See foot-note, p. 257.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> For fine preparations, rose water is used; for ordinary, distilled -water.</p></div></div> - -<div class="transnote"> - -<h3> Transcriber's Notes</h3> -<p>Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected.</p> - -<p>Variable use of accents and ligatures has been standardised to ensure -compatibility between text and index.</p> - -<p>The reference in the index to oleum uonæ has been corrected to oleum -unonæ.</p> - -<p>The index lists Pomade - cheap - wax at page 390, which does not exist. This has been changed to 290.</p> - -<p>Footnotes 12 and 13, merely repeat footnote 11, so have been removed and all references changed to footnote 11.</p> -</div> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Practical Treatise on the -Manufacture of Perfumery, by C. 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