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diff --git a/old/50139-0.txt b/old/50139-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 6c75254..0000000 --- a/old/50139-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12752 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of -Perfumery, by C. Deite - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Perfumery - -Author: C. Deite - -Translator: William T. Brannt - -Release Date: October 6, 2015 [EBook #50139] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TREATISE ON MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY *** - - - - -Produced by deaurider, Les Galloway and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - A PRACTICAL TREATISE - - ON THE - - MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY: - - COMPRISING - - DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING ALL KINDS OF PERFUMES, SACHET - POWDERS, FUMIGATING MATERIALS, DENTIFRICES, - COSMETICS, ETC., ETC., - - WITH A FULL ACCOUNT OF THE - - VOLATILE OILS, BALSAMS, RESINS, AND OTHER NATURAL - AND ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-SUBSTANCES, INCLUDING - THE MANUFACTURE OF FRUIT ETHERS, AND - TESTS OF THEIR PURITY. - - BY - - DR. C. DEITE, - - ASSISTED BY L. BORCHERT, F. EICHBAUM, E. KUGLER, - H. TOEFFNER, AND OTHER EXPERTS. - - FROM THE GERMAN BY - - WILLIAM T. BRANNT, - - EDITOR OF "THE TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT-BOOK." - - ILLUSTRATED BY TWENTY-EIGHT ENGRAVINGS. - - PHILADELPHIA: - HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO., - INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHERS, BOOKSELLERS AND IMPORTERS, - 810 WALNUT STREET. - 1892. - - - COPYRIGHT BY - HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO. - 1892. - - PRINTED AT THE COLLINS PRINTING HOUSE, - 705 Jayne Street, - PHILADELPHIA, U. S. A. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -A translation of the portion of the "Handbuch der Parfümerie-und -Toiletteseifenfabrikation," edited by Dr. C. DEITE, relating to -perfumery and cosmetics, is presented to the English reading public -with the full confidence that it will not only fill a useful place -in technical literature, but will also prove--for what it is chiefly -intended--a ready book of reference and a practical help and guide for -the perfumer's laboratory. The names of the editor and his co-workers -are a sufficient guaranty of its value and practical usefulness, they -all being experienced men, well schooled each in the particular branch -of the industry, the treatment of which has been assigned to him. - -The most suitable and approved formulæ, tested by experience, have been -given; and special attention has been paid to the description of the -raw materials, as well as to the various methods of testing them, the -latter being of special importance, since in no other industry has the -manufacturer to contend with such gross and universal adulteration of -raw materials. - -It is hoped that the additions made here and there by the translator, -as well as the portion relating to the manufacture of "Fruit Ethers," -added by him, may contribute to the interest and usefulness of the -treatise. - -Finally, it remains only to be stated that, with their usual -liberality, the publishers have spared no expense in the proper -illustration and the mechanical production of the book; and, as is -their universal practice, have caused it to be provided with a copious -table of contents and a very full index, which will add additional -value by rendering any subject in it easy and prompt of reference. - - W. T. B. - - PHILADELPHIA, May 2, 1892. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - CHAPTER I. - - HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY. - - PAGE - - Consumption of perfume-substances by the early nations of - the Orient 17 - - Perfume-substances as an offering to the gods and their use - for embalming the dead; Arts of the toilet in ancient times 18 - - Perfume-substances used by the Hebrews; Olibanum and - the mode of gaining it in ancient times, as described by - Herodotus 19 - - Pliny's account of olibanum 20 - - Practice of anointing the entire body customary among the - ancients; The holy oil prescribed by Moses; Origin of - the sweet-scented ointment "myron" 21 - - Luxurious use of ointments in Athens, and the special ointments - used for each part of the body; Introduction of ointments in - Rome, and edict prohibiting the sale of foreign ointments; - Plutarch on the extravagant use of ointments in Rome 22 - - Ancient books containing directions for preparing ointments; - Directions for rose ointment, according to Dioscorides 23 - - Ancient process of distilling volatile oils; Dioscorides's - directions for making animal fats suitable for the reception of - perfumes; Consumption of perfume-substances by the ancient - Romans; Condition of the ancient ointment-makers 24 - - Use of red and white paints, hair-dyes, and depilatories by - the Romans 25 - - Peculiar substance for cleansing the teeth used by the Roman - ladies; Perfumeries and cosmetics in the Middle Ages; - Receipts for cosmetics in the writings of Arabian physicians, - and of Guy de Chanlios 26 - - Giovanni Marinello's work on "Cosmetics for Ladies;" Introduction - of the arts of the toilet into France, by Catherine de Medici - and Margaret of Valois 27 - - Extravagant use of cosmetics in France from the commencement - of the seventeenth to the middle of the eighteenth century 28 - - Importance of the perfumer's craft in France; Chief seats - of the French perfumery industry 29 - - Privileges of the _parfumeurs-gantiers_ in France; Use of - perfumes in England; Act of Parliament prohibiting the use of - perfumeries, false hair, etc., for deceiving a man and inveigling - him into matrimony 30 - - CHAPTER II. - - THE PERFUME-MATERIALS FOR THE MANUFACTURE - OF PERFUMERY. - - Derivation of the perfume-substances; Animal substances - used; Occurrence of volatile oils in plants 31 - - Families of plants richest in oil; Central Europe the actual - flower garden of the perfumer; Principal localities for the - cultivation of plants 32 - - Volatile oils and their properties 33 - - Principal divisions of volatile oils 34 - - Constitution of terpenes; Concentrated volatile oils 35 - - Modes of gaining volatile oils; Expression 36 - - Clarification of the oil 37 - - Filter for clarifying the oil, illustrated and described 38 - - Distillation 39 - - Apparatus for determining the percentage of volatile oil a - vegetable substance will yield, illustrated and described 40 - - Various stills for the distillation of volatile oils, illustrated - and described 41 - - Distillation of volatile oils by means of hot air; Separation - of the oil and water; Florentine flasks, illustrated and - described 46 - - Separator-funnel, illustrated and described 47 - - Extraction 48 - - Various apparatuses for extraction, illustrated and described 49 - - Heyl's distilling apparatus 57 - - Maceration or infusion; Pomades; Purification of the fats - used in the maceration process 58 - - _Huiles antiques_; Old French process of maceration; Piver's - maceration apparatus, illustrated and described 59 - - Flowers for which maceration is employed; Absorption or - _enfleurage_ 60 - - Apparatuses for absorption, illustrated and described 61 - - Flowers for which the absorption process is employed; Storage - of volatile oils 65 - - CHAPTER III. - - TESTING VOLATILE OILS. - - Extensive adulteration of volatile oils; Testing volatile oils - as to odor and taste 66 - - Recognition of an adulteration with fat oil 67 - - Detection of alcohol or spirit of wine; Dragendorff's test 68 - - Hager's tannin test 69 - - Detection of chloroform; Detection of benzine 71 - - Quantitative determination of adulterations with alcohol, - chloroform, and benzine 72 - - Detection of adulterations with terpenes or terpene-like fluids 73 - - Detection of adulterations with volatile oils of a lower quality; - Test with iodine 74 - - Hoppe's nitroprusside of copper test 75 - - Table showing the behavior of volatile oils free from oxygen - towards nitroprusside of copper 76 - - Hager's alcohol and sulphuric acid test; Hager's guaiacum - reaction 78 - - Division of the volatile oils with reference to the guaiacum - reaction 79 - - Hübl's iodine method 80 - - A. Kremel's test by titration or saponification with alcoholic - potash lye 81 - - Utilization of Maumené's test by F. R. Williams 82 - - Planchon's proposed procedure for the recognition of a - volatile oil 83 - - CHAPTER IV. - - THE VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. - - Acacia oil or oil of cassie; Almond oil (bitter) 87 - - Adulterations of oil of bitter almonds and their detection 90 - - Angelica oil 92 - - Anise-seed oil 93 - - Star anise oil 94 - - Balm oil; Basil oil; Bayberry oil, or oil of bay leaves 96 - - Bergamot oil; Testing bergamot oil as to its purity 97 - - Cajeput oil 98 - - Camomile or chamomile oil; Blue camomile oil; Green - camomile oil 99 - - Caraway oil; Recognition of the purity of caraway oil 100 - - Cedar oil; Cherry-laurel oil 101 - - Detection of oil of mirbane in cherry-laurel oil; Cinnamon - oils; Ceylon cinnamon oil 102 - - Cassia oil 103 - - Cinnamon-root oil and oil of cinnamon leaves; Quantitative - determination of cinnamaldehyde in cassia oil 104 - - Detection of adulterations in cassia oil; Citron oil 106 - - Detection of adulterations in citron oil; Citronella oil; - Detection of adulterations in citronella oil 107 - - Oil of cloves 108 - - Test for the value of oil of cloves 109 - - Eucalyptus oil 110 - - Fennel oil 111 - - Geranium oil, palmarosa oil, Turkish geranium oil; East - Indian geranium oil; French and African geranium oils 112 - - Adulterations of geranium oils; Jasmine oil, or oil of - jessamine 113 - - Juniper oil 114 - - Lavender oil; Spike oil 115 - - Detection of adulterations of lavender oil; Lemon oil; - Sponge process of obtaining lemon oil 116 - - Écuelle process 117 - - Distillation; Apparatus combining the écuelle and distilling - processes, illustrated and described 118 - - Adulterations of oil of lemons and their detection: Lilac - oil; Oil of limes 121 - - Licari oil, linaloë oil; Marjoram oils; Spanish marjoram oil 122 - - Mignonette oil; Myrrh oil 123 - - Nutmeg oils; Mace oil; Adulterations of mace oil and their - detection 124 - - Opopanax oil; Orange-peel oil, Portugal oil or essence of - Portugal; Mandarin oil 125 - - Orange-flower oil or neroli oil; Neroli Portugal oil; - Cultivation of the orange on the French Riviera and yield of - orange blossoms; Characteristics of oil of orange flowers 126 - - Adulterations of neroli oil and their detection 127 - - Petit-grain oil; Oil of orris root 129 - - Patchouli oil 130 - - Varieties and characteristics of patchouli oil 131 - - Peppermint oil; Oil of curled mint; Peppermint oil and its - varieties 132 - - American oils of peppermint of high reputation; Mode of - distinguishing American, German, and English oils of - peppermint 133 - - Adulterants of peppermint oil and their detection 134 - - Poley oil 135 - - Pimento oil or oil of allspice; Rose oil or attar of roses; - Principal localities of its production; Schimmel & Co.'s, - of Leipzic, Germany, experiment to obtain oil from indigenous - roses 136 - - The rose-oil industry in Bulgaria; Methods of gathering and - distilling the roses 137 - - Characteristics of pure rose oil 138 - - Manner of judging the genuineness of rose oil; Process for - the insulation and determination of stearoptene in rose oil 139 - - Adulteration of rose oil with ginger-grass oil 140 - - Test for the adulteration of rose oil with ginger-grass oil - employed in Bulgaria 141 - - Adulterants of rose oil 142 - - Tests for rose oil; Approximate quantitative determination - of spermaceti in rose oil 143 - - Rosemary oil; Detection of adulterations in rosemary oil 144 - - Rosewood oil or rhodium oil; Sandal-wood oil; Sassafras - oil; Characteristics of sassafras oil 145 - - Thyme oil 147 - - Oil of turpentine; Austrian oil of turpentine; German oil - of turpentine; French oil of turpentine; Venetian oil of - turpentine 148 - - American oil of turpentine; Pine oil; Dwarf pine oil; - Krummholz or Latschenoel; Pine-leaf oil; Templin oil - (Kienoel); Balsam-pine oil 149 - - Oil of verbena; Oil of violet; Vitivert or vetiver oil 150 - - Wintergreen oil 151 - - Birch oil; Artificial preparation of methyl salicylate 152 - - Adulteration of wintergreen oil and its detection; Ylang-ylang - oil 153 - - Cananga oil 154 - - CHAPTER V. - - RESINS AND BALSAMS. - - Elementary constituents of resins; Division of resins; Hard - resins; Soft resins or balsams; Gum-resins 155 - - Diffusion of resins in the vegetable kingdom; Benzoin 156 - - Varieties of benzoin and their characteristics 157 - - Peru balsam and mode of obtaining it 159 - - White Peru balsam 160 - - Characteristics of Peru balsam 161 - - Adulterants of Peru balsam and their detection 162 - - Tolu balsam and its characteristics 166 - - A new variety of Tolu balsam 167 - - Storax; Liquid storax and its characteristics 168 - - Adulteration of liquid storax and its detection 170 - - Storax in grains; Ordinary storax 171 - - American storax, white Peru balsam, white Indian balsam, - or liquid-ambar; Myrrh 172 - - Myrrha electa and its characteristics 173 - - Constitution of myrrh 174 - - Adulteration of myrrh and its detection 175 - - Opopanax; Olibanum or frankincense 176 - - Commercial varieties of olibanum; Sandarac and its - characteristics 177 - - CHAPTER VI. - - PERFUME-SUBSTANCES FROM THE ANIMAL KINGDOM. - - Musk and its varieties; Musk sacs, illustrated and described 178 - - Characteristics of Tonkin musk 180 - - Musk of the American musk-rat as a substitute for genuine - musk 181 - - Other possible substitutes for the musk-deer; Artificial musk 182 - - Adulterations of musk and their detection 183 - - Civet 184 - - Castor and its varieties 185 - - Adulterations of castor; Ambergris 186 - - Constituents of ambergris 187 - - Adulterations of ambergris 188 - - CHAPTER VII. - - ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. - - Conversion of oil of turpentine into oil of lemons by Bouchardat - and Lafont 189 - - Cumarin, its occurrence and properties 190 - - Varieties of tonka beans found in commerce 191 - - Preparation of cumarin from tonka beans; Artificial preparation - of cumarin from salicylic acid 192 - - Synthetical preparation of cumarin; Heliotropin or piperonal - and its characteristics 193 - - Preparation of heliotropin 194 - - Vanillin; Characteristics of the vanilla 195 - - Artificial preparation of vanillin 196 - - Characteristics of vanillin 197 - - Adulteration of vanillin, and its detection; Nitrobenzol 198 - - Characteristics of nitrobenzol or oil of mirbane; adulteration - of nitrobenzol and its detection 199 - - Fruit ethers and their characteristics 200 - - Acetic amyl ether or amyl acetate, its preparation and use; - Acetic ether or ethyl acetate and its preparation 201 - - Benzoic ether or ethyl benzoate and its preparation 204 - - Butyric ethyl ether or ethyl butyrate; Preparation of butyric - acid 205 - - Preparation of butyric ether 207 - - St. John's bread or carob as material for the preparation of - butyric ether 209 - - Formic ethyl ether, or ethyl formate and its preparation 210 - - Nitrous ether or ethyl nitrate and its preparation according - to Kopp's method 211 - - Preparation and use of nitrous ether in England and America 212 - - Valerianic amyl ether or amyl valerate and its preparation 214 - - Valerianic ethyl ether; Apple ether; Apricot ether; Cherry - ether; Pear ether; Pineapple ether; Strawberry ether; - Preparation of fruit essences; Apple essence; Apricot essence 216 - - Cherry essence; Currant essence; Grape essence; Lemon - essence; Melon essence; Orange essence; Peach essence; - Pear essence; Pineapple essence; Plum essence 217 - - Raspberry essence; Strawberry essence 218 - - CHAPTER VIII. - - ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. - - Division of alcoholic perfumes; What constitutes the art - of the perfumer; Qualities of flower-pomades and their - designation 219 - - Storage of flower-pomades; Extraction of flower-pomades 220 - - Apparatus for making alcoholic extracts from flower-pomades, - illustrated and described 221 - - Beyer frères improved apparatus, illustrated and described 223 - - Tinctures and extracts and their preparation 225 - - Beyer frères apparatus for the preparation of tinctures, - illustrated and described 226 - - Musk tincture; Civet tincture 228 - - Ambergris tincture; Castor tincture; Benzoin tincture; - Peru balsam tincture; Tolu balsam tincture 229 - - Olibanum tincture; Opopanax tincture; Storax tincture; - Myrrh tincture; Musk-seed or abelmosk tincture 230 - - Angelica root tincture; Orris-root tincture; Musk-root or - sumbul-root tincture; Tonka-bean tincture 231 - - Cumarin tincture; Heliotropin tincture; Vanilla tincture; - Vanillin tincture 232 - - Vitivert tincture; Juniper-berry tincture; Patchouli extract 233 - - Tinctures from volatile oils; Almond-oil (bitter) tincture; - Balm-oil tincture; Bergamot-oil tincture; Canango-oil - tincture 234 - - Cassia-oil tincture; Cedar-oil tincture; Cinnamon-oil tincture; - Citronella-oil tincture; Clove-oil tincture; Eucalyptus-oil - tincture; Geranium-oil tincture; Lavender-oil tincture; - Lemon-grass-oil tincture; Lemon-oil tincture; Licari-oil - tincture; Myrrh-oil tincture; Neroli-oil tincture; Opopanax-oil - tincture; Orris-root-oil tincture; Patchouli-oil tincture 235 - - Petit-grain-oil tincture; Pine-leaf-oil tincture; Portugal-oil - tincture; Sandal-wood-oil tincture; Verbena-oil tincture; - Vitivert-oil tincture; Wintergreen-oil tincture; Ylang-ylang-oil - tincture; Rose-oil tincture 236 - - Extraits aux fleurs; Extrait acacia; Extrait cassie; Extrait - héliotrope; Extrait jacinthe 237 - - Extrait jasmin; Essence of the odor of linden blossoms; - Extrait jonquille; Extrait magnolia; Extrait muguet - (lily of the valley); Extrait fleurs de Mai (May flowers) 238 - - Extrait ixora; Extrait orange; Extrait white rose; Extrait - rose v. d. centifolie; Extrait violette; Coloring substance - for extraits; Extrait de violette de Parme 239 - - Extrait tubereuse; Extrait réséda; Extrait ylang-ylang; - Compound odors (bouquets); Extrait Edelweiss; Extrait - ess-bouquet 240 - - Extrait spring flower; Extrait bouquet Eugenie; Extrait - excelsior; Extrait Frangipani; Extrait jockey club 241 - - Extrait opopanax; Extrait patchouli; Extrait millefleurs; - Extrait bouquet Victoria 242 - - Extrait kiss-me-quick; Extrait mogadore; Extrait bouquet - Prince Albert; Extrait muse; Extrait new-mown hay; - Extrait chypre 243 - - Extrait maréchal; Extrait mousseline; Extraits triple - concentrés and their preparations 244 - - Concentrated flower-extract for the preparation of extraits - d'Odeurs; Extraits d'Odeurs, quality II 245 - - Extrait violette II; Extrait rose II; Extrait réséda II; - Extrait ylang-ylang II 246 - - Extrait new-mown hay II; Extrait chypre II; Extrait ess-bouquet - II 247 - - Extrait muguet II; Extrait bouquet Victoria II; Extrait - spring flower II; Extrait ixora II 248 - - Extrait Frangipani II; Cologne water (eau de Cologne) and - its preparation 249 - - Durability of the volatile oils used in the preparation of - Cologne water 250 - - Cologne water, quality I 252 - - Cologne water, quality II; Cologne water, quality III; - Cologne water, quality IV; Cologne water, quality V 253 - - Maiglöckchen eau de Cologne; Various other receipts for - Cologne water 254 - - Eau de Lavande; Eau de vie de Lavande double ambrée; - Eau de Lavande double; Aqua mellis; Eau de Lisbonne 255 - - CHAPTER IX. - - DRY PERFUMES. - - Use of dry perfumes in ancient times; Sachet powders and - their preparation 256 - - Sachet à la rose; Sachet à la violette; Heliotrope sachet - powder; Ylang-ylang sachet powder; Jockey club sachet 257 - - Sachet aux millefleurs; Lily of the valley sachet powder; - Patchouli sachet powder; Frangipani sachet powder; - Victoria sachet powder; Réséda sachet powder 258 - - Musk sachet powder; Ess-bouquet sachet powder; New-mown - hay sachet powder; Orange sachet powder; Solid - perfumes with paraffine; White rose 259 - - Ess-bouquet; Lavender odor; Eau de Cologne; Smelling - salts; Preston salt and "menthol pungent" as prepared - by William W. Bartlett; White smelling salt 260 - - CHAPTER X. - - FUMIGATING ESSENCES, PASTILLES, POWDERS, ETC. - - Constitution of fumigating agents; Object of fumigating; - Prejudice against fumigating; Mode of fumigating 262 - - Atomizers; Objections to dry fumigating agents 263 - - Fumigating essences and vinegars; Rose-flower fumigating - essence; Flower fumigating essence--héliotrope 264 - - Violet-flower fumigating essence; Oriental flower fumigating - essence; Pine odor (for atomizing); Juniper odor; fumigating - balsam 265 - - Fumigating water; Fumigating vinegar; Fumigating powders; - Ordinary fumigating powder 266 - - Rose fumigating powder; Violet fumigating powder; Orange - fumigating powder; New-mown hay fumigating powder 267 - - Fumigating paper; Fumigating pastilles 268 - - Ordinary red fumigating pastilles; Ordinary black fumigating - pastilles; Musk fumigating pastilles 269 - - Rose fumigating pastilles; Violet fumigating pastilles; - Millefleurs fumigating pastilles; Fumigating lacquer 270 - - CHAPTER XI. - - DENTIFRICES, MOUTH-WATERS, ETC. - - Selection of materials for and compounding of dentifrices 272 - - Soap as a constituent of dentifrices; Value of thymol for - dentifrices; Object of glycerin in dentifrices 273 - - Tooth and mouth waters; Thymol tooth-water; Eau dentifrice - Botot; Eau dentifrice Orientale 274 - - Violet mouth-water; Antiseptic gargle; Odontine; Sozodont; - Eau de Botot (improved) 275 - - Quinine tooth-water; Dr. Stahl's tooth-tincture; Esprit de - menthe; Arnica tooth-tincture; Myrrh tooth-tincture 276 - - Tooth-pastes and tooth-powders; tooth-paste or odontine 277 - - Thymol tooth-paste; Cherry tooth-paste; Non-fermenting - cherry tooth-paste; Odontine paste 278 - - Thymol tooth-powder; Poudre dentifrice; Violet tooth-powder 279 - - Dr. Hufeland's tooth-powder; White tooth-powder; Black - tooth-powder; Poudre de corail; Camphor tooth-powder; - Opiat liquide pour les dents 280 - - Poudre d'Algérine 281 - - Dr. Hufeland's tooth-soap 282 - - Tooth-soap; Saponaceous tooth-wash 283 - - CHAPTER XII. - - HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS, AND HAIR TONICS; HAIR - DYES AND DEPILATORIES. - - Fats used for the preparation of pomades; Reputation of - some fats as hair pomades 284 - - Pomades and their preparation; Purification of the fat 285 - - Substances used for coloring pomades; Fine French pomades - (flower-pomades); Maceration or extraction of the flowers 286 - - Receipts for some flower-pomades; Pommade à la rose; - Pommade à l'acacia; Pommade à la fleur d'orange; - Pommade à l'héliotrope 287 - - Pomades according to the German method and their preparation; - Foundations for white pomades 288 - - Apple pomade; Bear's grease pomade; Quinine pomades 289 - - Quinine pomades (imitation); Benzoin pomade; Densdorf - pomade; Ice pomades; Family pomades 290 - - Strawberry pomade; Fine hair pomade; Pomade for promoting - the growth of the hair; Heliotrope pomades 291 - - Jasmine pomade; Emperor pomade; Macassar pomade; - Portugal pomade; Herb pomade; Lanolin pomade 292 - - Oriental pomade; Paraffin ice pomade; Neroli pomade; - Cheap pomade (red, yellow, white); Mignonette pomade; - Castor oil pomades; Princess pomade 293 - - Fine pomade; Beef-marrow pomade; Rogers's pomade for - producing a beard; Rose pomade; Fine rose pomade; - Finest rose pomade; Salicylic pomade; Victoria pomade; - Tonka pomade 294 - - Fine vanilla pomade; Vanilla pomade; Violet pomade; - Walnut pomade; Vaseline pomades 295 - - Foundations for vaseline pomades; Bouquet vaseline pomade; - Family vaseline pomade; Lily of the valley vaseline - pomade; Neroli vaseline pomade 296 - - Mignonette vaseline pomade; Portugal vaseline pomade; - Rose vaseline pomades; Fine vaseline pomade (yellow); - Vaseline pomade (red); Vaseline pomade (white); Virginia - vaseline pomade; Victoria vaseline pomade 297 - - Extra fine vaseline pomade; Stick pomades; Foundations - for stick pomades; Manufacture of stick pomades 298 - - Rose-wax pomade; Black-wax pomade; Blonde-wax pomade; - Brown-wax pomade 299 - - Cheap wax pomades; Resin pomades; Hair oils; Huiles - antiques; Vaseline oil for hair oils; Treatment of oils - with benzoin 300 - - Preparation of huiles antiques; Huile antique à la rose; - Huile antique au jasmin; Alpine herb oil; Flower hair - oil; Peruvian bark hair oil 301 - - Peru hair oil; Burdock root hair oils; Macassar hair oils; - Neroli hair oil; Mignonette hair oils; Fine hair oil 302 - - Cheap hair oil (red or yellow); Portugal hair oil; Jasmine - hair oil; Vaseline hair oils; Vanilla hair oil; Ylang-ylang - hair oil; Philocome hair oil 303 - - Sultana hair oil; Rose hair oil; Tonka hair oil; Violet hair - oil; Victoria hair oil; Cheap hair oils; Bandolines and - their preparation 304 - - Rose bandoline; Almond bandoline; Brilliantine 305 - - Flower brilliantine No. 1; Brilliantine No. 2 306 - - Brilliantine No. 3; Various formulas for brilliantine 307 - - Hair tonics; Eau Athénienne; Florida water 308 - - Eau de Cologne hair tonic; Eau de quinine 309 - - Eau de quinine (imitation); Honey water; Glycerin hair - tonic; Eau lustral (hair restorative); Tea hair tonic 310 - - Locock's lotion for the hair; Shampoo lotion; Shampoo - liquid 311 - - Dandruff cures; Dandruff lotion; Bay rum 312 - - Directions for preparing bay rum 313 - - Hair dyes; Requirements of a good hair dye; Gradual darkening - of the hair; Use of dilute acids for making the hair lighter 314 - - Use of lead salts, nitrate of silver, and copper salts for - dyeing the hair 315 - - Iron salts for dying the hair; Rastikopetra, a Turkish hair - dye; Use of potassium permanganate and pyrogallic acid - for dyeing the hair 316 - - Kohol, an Egyptian hair dye; The use of henna as a hair - dye; Process of coloring hair, dyed red with henna, black 317 - - Use of the juice of green walnut shells for coloring the hair; - Bleaching the hair with peroxide of hydrogen; Formulæ - for hair dyes 318 - - Single hair dyes; Teinture Orientale (Karsi); Teinture - Chinoise (Kohol) 319 - - Potassium permanganate hair dye; Bismuth hair dye; Walnut - hair dye; Pyrogallic hair stain 320 - - Double hair dyes; For dyeing brown; For dyeing black; - Tannin hair dye 321 - - Melanogène; Eau d'Afrique; Krinochrom; Copper hair - dye; Depilatories; Rhusma 322 - - Boettger's depilatory; Bartholow's depilatory 323 - - CHAPTER XIII. - - COSMETICS. - - Skin cosmetics; Toilet vinegars; Vinaigre de Bully; Vinaigre - de toilette à la rose; Vinaigre de toilette à la violette 324 - - Vinaigre de toilette héliotrope; Vinaigre de toilette orange; - Vinaigre de toilette; Aromatic vinegar; English aromatic - vinegar 325 - - Toilet vinegar; Washes; Virginal milk (Lait virginal); - Rose milk (Lait de rose) 326 - - Almond milk (Lait d'amandes amères) 327 - - Lily milk (Lait de lys); Perfumed glycerin with rose odor; - Perfumed glycerin with fruit odor; Perfumed meals and - pastes; Farin de noisette (nut meal) 328 - - Farin d'amandes amères (almond meal); Pate d'amandes - au miel (honey almond paste); Poudre de riz à la rose 329 - - Poudre de riz héliotrope; Poudre de riz orange; Poudre de - riz muguet 330 - - Poudre de riz ixora; Poudre de riz bouquet; Cold creams - and lip salves; Cold cream; Vaseline cold cream 331 - - Glycerin cream; Crême de concombre; Glycerin gelée; - Glycerin jelly 332 - - Cream of roses; Boroglycerin cream; Recamier cream; - Preparations for chapped hands 333 - - Wash for the hands; Nail powder; Lip-salves 334 - - Paints; Pulverulent paints (powders); "Blanc fard" or - "Blanc français" 335 - - Mixtures for powders; Coloring substances for powders; - Powder for coloring intensely red; Solid paints; Ordinary - red paint (rouge) 336 - - Fine red paint (rouge); White paint; Preparation of paints 337 - - Red stick-paint (stick rouge); Moulding the rouge into sticks 339 - - White stick-paint; Rouge en feuilles; Liquid paints; Liquid - rouge 340 - - White liquid paint; Fat paints 341 - - Crême de Lys; Crême de rose 342 - - INDEX 343 - - - - - A PRACTICAL TREATISE - - ON THE - - MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY. - - -Nature has implanted in man the instinct of finding the odor -accompanying decay and putrefaction insufferable, of fleeing from it, -and of going in quest of fragrant odors. Hence, in ancient times, -perfume substances were highly esteemed, and an offering of them was -considered a sign of the most profound reverence and homage. The early -nations of the Orient especially used perfume substances in such -profusion that the consumption of them by the finest lady of to-day -must be called a comparatively moderate one. This may, however, be -readily explained, for, on the one hand, the majority of plants which -produce the most agreeable perfumes in larger quantity are indigenous -to the Orient; and, on the other, the excessive exhalations from the -human body, caused by the hot climate, forced the people to search for -means to remove, or at least to cover, the disagreeable odor arising -therefrom. - -Since fragrant odors were agreeable to human beings, it was believed -that they must be welcome also to the gods, and, to honor them, perfume -substances were burned upon the altars. Besides, as an offering to -the gods, perfume substances were extensively used by many nations, -especially by the Egyptians, for embalming the dead, the process -employed by the latter having been transmitted to us by the ancient -authors Herodotus and Diodorus. - -Furthermore, a desire for ornamentation and to give to the face and -body as pleasing an appearance as possible, is common to all mankind. -To be sure, the ideas of what constitutes beauty in this respect -have varied at different times and among the various nations. But, -independent of the savage races, who consider painting and tattooing -the body and face an embellishment, and taking into consideration only -the earliest civilized nations, it is astonishing how many arts of the -toilet have been preserved from the most ancient historical times up -to the present. "In the most ancient historical times, people perfumed -and painted, frizzed, curled, and dyed the hair as at present, and, in -fact, the same cosmetics, only slightly augmented, which were in use -hundreds, nay, thousands, of years ago are still employed to-day."[1] -It is especially woman, who everywhere exercises the arts of the -toilet, while, with the exception of perfumes and agents for the hair, -man is but seldom referred to as making use of cosmetics. The young -girls of ancient Egypt used red and white paints, colored their pale -lips, and anointed their hair with sweet-scented oils; they dyed their -eyelashes and eyelids black to impart a brighter lustre to the glance -of the eye, and the mother of the wife of the first king of Egypt is -said to have already composed a receipt for a hair-dye. - - [1] Paschkis, Kosmetik für Aerzte. Wien, 1890. - -From the Egyptians, the practices of the toilet, like many other -things, were transmitted to the Jews. In Egypt, the Hebrew woman had -known the sweet-scented flower of the henna bush, and, finding it also -in Judea, it served her as a perfume. In the Bible the henna flower is -called _kopher_, in Greek _kypros_, and the Cyprian salve, mentioned by -Pliny, was prepared by boiling henna flowers in oil and then expressing -them. - -Painting the face was also practised by the Hebrew women, reference -being made to it in II. Kings ix. 30, and Jeremiah v. 30, while -painting of the eyes is mentioned in Ezekiel xxiii. 40. - -The number of perfume substances known to the ancient Hebrews was but a -limited one, they consisting, besides the above-mentioned henna flower, -chiefly of a few gum-resins, especially bdellium, olibanum and myrrh. - -In ancient times olibanum was, without doubt, the most important -perfume-substance. It was introduced into commerce by the Phoenicians, -and, like many other substances, it received from them its name, -which was adopted by other nations. Thus, the Hebrews called the tree -_lebonah_, the Arabs, _lubah_, while the Greeks named it, λιβανός -and the resin derived from it, the celebrated frankincense of the -ancients, λιβανωτόςτς, Latin, _olibanum_. Regarding the mode of gaining -the olibanum, some curious ideas prevailed in ancient times. Thus, -Herodotus writes: "Arabia is the only country in which olibanum grows, -as well as myrrh, cassia, cinnamon and lederum. With the exception -of myrrh, the Arabs encounter many difficulties in procuring these -products. Olibanum they obtain by burning styrax, for every olibanum -tree is guarded by a number of small-sized winged serpents of a -variegated appearance, which can be driven away by nothing but styrax -vapors." According to Pliny, who gives a very full account of olibanum, -_Arabia felix_ received its by-name from the abundance of olibanum and -myrrh found there. He states that olibanum grows in no other country -besides Arabia, but it is not found in every part of it. About in the -centre, upon a high mountain, he continues, is the country of the -Atramites, a province of the Sabeans, from which the olibanum region is -distant about eight days' journey. It is called Saba and is everywhere -rendered inaccessible by mountains, a narrow defile, through which the -export is carried on, leading into an adjoining province inhabited by -the Mineans. In Saba itself were not more than 300 families, called the -saints, who claimed the cultivation of olibanum as a right of heritage. -When making the incisions in the trees, and while gathering the -olibanum, the men were prohibited from having intercourse with women -and from attending funerals. Notwithstanding the fact that the Romans -carried on war in Arabia, none of them had ever seen an olibanum tree. -When there was less chance of selling the olibanum, it was gathered but -once in the year, but since the increase in the demand, it was gathered -twice, first in the fall and again in the spring, the incisions in -the trees having been made during the winter. The collected olibanum -was brought upon camels to Sabota, where one gate was open for its -reception; to turn from the road was prohibited under penalty of death. -The priests took one-tenth by measure for the god Sabin, sales not -being allowed until their claim was satisfied. The olibanum could be -exported only through the territory of the Gebanites, whose King also -levied tribute. - -Pliny further states that the Arabs did not steal one from another, but -for fear of loss those employed in the stores of Alexandria were forced -to go naked with the exception of a clout which was sealed. A mask and -a thick net were thrown over the head. - -To us the practice of anointing the entire body, customary among the -ancients, appears very singular. Old Egyptian sculptures represent -the guests being anointed at the meal. Among the Jews we find a holy -oil with which Aaron and his sons were anointed to consecrate them to -the priesthood, Moses prescribing for this holy anointing oil, myrrh, -cinnamon, calamus, and oil from the olive tree. Other persons were -prohibited from imitating or using this holy oil. The anointing of -kings was introduced later on. Though it was prohibited to imitate and -use the holy oil, this prohibition did not refer to anointing with oil -in general. - -That the Greeks also set a high value upon anointing with oil is -plainly seen from Homer. When Telemachus visited Nestor, Polycaste, -Nestor's youngest daughter, bathed him and anointed him with oil, and -when he was the guest of Menelaus, the maids of the latter performed -the same service for him, while for Ulysses returning as a beggar, the -aged Euryclea prepared a foot-bath and anointed him. - -By the addition of fragrant substances to the oil, the sweet-scented -ointment, _myron_, originated. While the anointing with simple oil -evidently served as a hygienic measure after the bath, and especially -for men in the gymnasium, and before a combat, with the Greeks, -ointments were an article of luxury. In Socrates' time the use of -sweet-scented ointments had reached such an extent, that Xenophon -caused him to speak against it, but, as is the case with all such -lectures against fashion, without the slightest success. In Athens the -luxury was carried so far that the bacchanalians anointed each part of -their body with a special ointment. The oil extracted from the palm -was thought best adapted to the cheeks and the breasts; the arms were -refreshed with balsam-mint; sweet marjoram supplied an oil for the -hair and eyebrows; and wild thyme for the knee and neck. Although to -us it would be repugnant to have the entire body anointed, in Athens -it was considered beautiful to be glossy with ointments. It is said of -Demetrius Phalereus, that in order to appear more captivating, he dyed -his hair yellow, and anointed the face and the rest of his body. - -From the Asiatics and Greeks the Romans also learned the use of -ointments. Pliny cannot say at what time they were introduced in Rome, -but states that after the conquest of Asia and the defeat of the King, -Antiochus, in the year 565, after the building of Rome, the censors -issued an edict prohibiting the sale of foreign ointments. However, -this edict was of no use, and the practice spread more and more, -Pliny speaking very bitterly about it. Regarding this extravagance -in ointments, Plutarch says: "Frankincense, cinnamon, spikenard, and -Arabian calamus are mixed together with the most careful art and sold -for large sums. It is an effeminate pleasure and has spoiled not only -the women but also the men, who will not sleep even with their own -wives if they do not smell of ointments and powders." Plutarch further -mentions an incident which must have created a sensation even in -luxurious Rome, as otherwise it would scarcely have been chronicled for -the benefit of posterity. Nero one day anointed himself with costly -ointments and scattered some of them over Otho. The next day Otho gave -Nero a banquet, and laid in all directions gold and silver tubes, which -poured forth expensive ointments like water, thoroughly saturating the -guests. - -Directions for preparing ointments are contained in Theophrastus's -work "On Perfumes," in Dioscorides's "Medica materia," and Pliny's -"Historia naturalis." Dioscorides's receipts are the fullest. According -to Pliny, a distinction was made between the juice and the body, the -latter consisting of the fat oils and the former of the sweet-scented -substances. In preparing the ointments, the oil together with the -perfuming substances were heated in the water-bath. For instance, -rose ointment was, according to Dioscorides, prepared by mixing 5½ -lbs. of bruised _Andropogon Schœnanthus_ with a little water, then -adding 20½ lbs. of oil and heating. After heating the oil was filtered -off, and the petals of one thousand roses were thrown into the oil, -the hands with which the rose leaves were pressed into the oil being -previously coated with honey. When the whole had stood for one night, -the oil was strained off and when all impurities had settled, it was -brought into another vessel and fresh rose leaves introduced, the -operation being several times repeated. However, according to the -opinion of the ancient ointment makers, no more odor was absorbed by -the oil after the seventh introduction of rose leaves. To fix the odor, -resins or gums were added to the ointments. - -A process of distilling volatile oils was also known, the -odoriferous matter being caught by spreading wool over the heated -perfume-substances. The wool was afterwards subjected to pressure. This -process, of course, involved great loss and was available only for -substances containing much volatile oil. - -Dioscorides also gives directions for making animal fats suitable for -the reception of perfumes. Beef-tallow, deer-fat, or the marrow of -animals was freed from all membranes, melted together with a little -salt in an entirely new vessel, and then poured into clean water, where -it was washed by rubbing with the hands, the water being frequently -renewed. Then it was boiled with equal parts of sweet-scented wine, -and after taking it from the fire it was allowed to stand over night. -The next day the cold fat was again boiled in a new vessel, with -sweet-scented wine, this operation being repeated until the fat had -lost every trace of disagreeable odor, when it was brought in contact -with the perfumes. - -The consumption of perfume-substances by the ancient Romans must have -been enormous. The trade of the ointment makers (_ungentarii_) was so -extensive that the large street _Seplasia_ in old Capua was entirely -taken up by it, and the business must have paid well since the prices -realized were very high. However, in ancient times the business cannot -have been very agreeable, at least not in Greece, as shown by a passage -in Plutarch's Life of Pericles: "We take pleasure in ointments and -purple, but consider the dyers and ointment makers bondsmen and -mechanics." - -Red and white paints, in the form of powder as well as of paste, were -extensively used by the Roman ladies. Chalk and white lead served for -white paint, and minium and carmine for red. Lovers preferred white -paints, a pale color being more becoming to them:-- - - "Palleat omnis amans; hic est - color aptus amanti."--(_Ovid._) - -For black paints for the eyebrows roasted ant eggs or soot were used. - -The Roman ladies paid as much attention to their natural, and also -false, hair as the fair ones of to-day. They curled their hair with -heated iron instruments, and perfumed them with fragrant oil. If from -age, sorrow, or other reasons, the hair was no longer black, it was -dyed, and it seems that a considerable number of hair-dyes were known -in Rome, amongst them some which are still employed to-day, such as -green nutshells and acetate of lead. - -After the Romans had seen the blonde German maidens, blonde and red -hair became the fashion. To dye the hair blonde sharp alkaline soaps -were chiefly used. However, this or some other hair-dye seems to have -been very injurious, as it caused the hair to come out. The satirists -ridiculed this as well as the wigs, which were worn by men and women to -hide baldness, or on account of the color which could not be attained -by dyes. - -Depilatories were also known to the Romans, the agents employed being -called _psilothrum_ and _dropax_. They were of vegetable origin, but -it is not exactly known from which plants they were derived. - -For cleaning the teeth the Roman ladies used a dentifrice which does -not seem very inviting to us. It consisted of a urine imported from -Spain (_dens hiberna defricatus urina_). To perfume the breath or to -hide its bad odor, mouth-washes, perfumed with saffron, roses, etc., -were used, or myrrh, mastic from Chios or perfumed pastilles were -chewed. - -We know but little regarding the use of perfumeries and cosmetics in -the Middle Ages. In the wars during the migrations of the nations, -but little thought was very likely given to them, but as soon as the -nations became again settled and made sufficient progress in culture, -the taste for perfumes and other pleasures of life no doubt returned. -Our knowledge in this respect is limited to what is contained in the -works of physicians of the first centuries. Later on we find receipts -for cosmetics in the writings of Arabian physicians, such as Rhazes -(end of the 9th to the commencement of the 10th century), Avicenna -(end of the 10th to the commencement of the 11th century), and Mesuë -(11th century). To the 11th century also belong the works of the -celebrated Trotula, "_De mulierum passionibus_," "_Practica Trotulae -mulieris Salernitanae de curis mulierum_," and "_Trotula in utilitatem -mulierum_," all of which contain receipts for cosmetics. In the -14th century the most celebrated surgeon of the Middle Ages, Guy de -Chanlios, did not consider it beneath his dignity to devote a section -of his "Grande Chirurgie" to cosmetics. However, it was only in the -16th century that perfumes and cosmetics came again into prominent -notice in Italy, which at that time was the country of luxury and art. -Giovanni Marinello,[2] a physician, in 1562 wrote a work on "Cosmetics -for Ladies," which he dedicated to the ladies Victoria and Isabella -Palavicini. In the preface the author expresses the opinion that it -is only right and pleasing to God to place the gifts bestowed by him -in a proper light and to heighten them. He then proceeds to give -perfumes for various purposes, aromatic baths to keep the skin young -and fresh, means for increasing the stoutness of the entire body and -of separate limbs, and others for reducing them. He further recommends -certain remedies for making large eyes small, and small ones large. -The chapter on the hair is very fully treated. To prevent the hair -from coming out, rubbing with oil, and then washing with sorrel and -myrobalan is recommended. For promoting the growth of the hair, the -use of dried frogs, lizards, etc., rubbed to a powder, is prescribed. -Means for making the hair long and soft and curly are also given, and -others recommended for eyebrows and eyelashes. As depilatories lime -and orpiment are prescribed. Paints are also classed among general -cosmetics. Their use became at this time more and more fashionable, and -not only the face, but also the breast and neck were painted. - - [2] Gli ornamenti delle donne, tratti dalle seriture d'una Reina - greca, par M. Giovanni Marinello in Venetia. - -Catherine of Medici and Margaret of Valois introduced these arts -of the toilet into France. That country soon became the leader in -this respect, and for many years the greatest luxury in perfumes -and cosmetics prevailed there. The golden age for these articles -lasted from the commencement of the seventeenth to the middle of -the eighteenth century, during which time the _mouche_ or beauty -patch also flourished. "There were at that time hundreds of pastes, -essences, cosmetics, a white balsam, a water to make the face red, -another to make a coarse complexion delicate, one to preserve the fine -complexion of lean persons and again one to make the face like that -of a twenty-year old girl, an _Eau pour nourir et laver les teints -corrodés_ and _Eau de chair admirable pour teints jaunes et bilieux_, -_etc._ Then there were _Mouchoirs de Venus_, further bands impregnated -with wax to cleanse and smooth the forehead; gold leaf was even heated -in a lemon over a fire in order to obtain a means which should impart -to the face a supernatural brightness. For the hair, teeth and nails -there were innumerable receipts, ointments, etc. However, of special -importance were the paints, chemical white, blue for the veins, but, -chief of all, the red or rouge, mineral, vegetable, or cochineal. The -application of rouge was at that time no small affair, it was not only -to be rouged, but the rouge had also to express something--_Le grand -point est d'avoir un rouge qui dise quelque chose_. The rouge had to -characterize its wearer; a lady of rank did not wear the rouge like a -lady of the court, and the rouge of the wife of the bourgeois was not -like either of them nor like that of the courtesan. At court a more -intense rouge was worn, the intensity of which was still increased on -the day of presentation, it being then _Rouge d'Espagne_ and _Rouge -de Portugal en tasse_. It may seem incredible, but for eight days a -violet paint was used and then for a change _Rouge de Serkis_. Ladies, -when retiring for the night applied a light rouge (_un demi rouge_), -and even small girls wore rouge, such being the decree of fashion. The -ladies dyed their eyebrows and eyelashes, and powdered their hair, both -natural and false, for, about 1750, they commenced wearing wigs and -chignons. Powdering was done partially for the purpose of dying the -hair after dressing, and partially for decoration; white, gray, red and -fiery red powders were in vogue." - -To that time fashion also ordained an ever-varying routine in the -employment of perfumes; so that the royal apartments were one day -fragrant with the scent of the tuberose and the next with that of amber -and cloves; and so on consecutively, each succeeding day bringing a -change of the reigning odor. In that luxurious age the personal use of -perfumes was not confined to the fair sex, but the effeminate gallants -of the day gloried in perfuming themselves with the favorite scents of -their mistresses or of prominent belles; so that the allegiance was -recognized, not as in more chivalrous times by the knight wearing the -colors of the fair one who had enslaved him, but by his smelling of the -particular odor which she had consecrated to herself. - -Philip Augustus, in 1190, granted a charter to the French perfumers, -who had formed a guild. This charter was, in 1357, confirmed by -John, and in 1582 by Henry III., and remained in force until 1636. -The importance of the craft in France is shown by the fact that -under Colbert the perfumers or "_parfumeurs-gantiers_," as they were -called, were granted patents which were registered in Parliament. -In the seventeenth century Montpellier was the chief seat of the -French perfumery industry; to-day it is Paris, and over fifty -millions of francs' worth of perfumery are annually sold there. The -_parfumeurs-gantiers_ had the privilege of selling gloves of all -possible kinds of material, as well as the leather required for them; -they had the further privilege of perfuming gloves and selling all -kinds of perfumes. Perfumed leather for gloves, purses, etc., was at -that time imported from Spain. This leather was very expensive and -fashionable, but on account of its penetrating odor its use for gloves -was finally abandoned. - -In England perfumes were not in general use before the reign of -Queen Elizabeth, when they soon became fashionable. Elizabeth had -an especially finely developed sense of smell and nothing was more -repugnant to her than a disagreeable odor. She had a cloak of perfumed -Spanish leather, and even her shoes were perfumed. Perfumed gloves were -also fashionable. The city soon imitated the practices of the court, -and that an extravagant use was made of perfumeries and cosmetics is -plainly seen from the works of the authors of that time, as well as -from an act of Parliament passed in 1770. By the latter it is ordained -that any woman, no matter of what age or rank, be she maid or widow, -who deceives a man and inveigles him into matrimony by the use of -perfumeries, false hair, _Crépons d'Espagne_ (a paint), corsets, hooped -petticoats, shoes with high heels, and false hips, shall suffer the -penalty of the law for procuring, and the marriage shall be null and -void. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -THE PERFUME-MATERIALS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY. - - -Most of the perfume-materials employed by the perfumer are derived from -the vegetable kingdom; a few are of animal origin, whilst some are -artificially prepared. - -Of animal substances only four are used, namely: _musk_, _castor_ -or _castoreum_, _civet_, and _ambergris_; the separation of their -characteristic odoriferous substances has, however, not yet been -accomplished. The odor of plants is generally due to volatile -substances called _volatile_ or _essential oils_. Their occurrence is -not limited to special parts, they being found in the flower, seed, -wood, bast, bark, leaves, and root. However, in every plant the oil -occurs chiefly in certain organs, and it even happens that the oil -differs with the part of the plant whence it is derived. The odors -exist already formed in the living plant, or else are generated, as in -the instance of bitter almonds, by some reaction between the elements -which takes place during fermentation or distillation. - -From the strength of the odor of a plant no conclusion can be drawn as -to the quantity of volatile oil present. If this were the case, the -hyacinth, for instance, would contain more oil than the coniferae, -whilst in fact it contains so little that it can be separated only -with the greatest difficulty. The odor does not depend on the quantity, -but on the quality of the oil; a plant may diffuse but little odor and -still contain much volatile oil. Of the various families of plants, the -_labiatae_, _umbelliferae_, and _coniferae_ are richest in volatile -oils. - -In every climate plants diffuse odor, those growing in tropical -latitudes being more prolific in this respect than the plants of colder -regions, which, however, yield the most delicate perfume. Although -the East Indies, Ceylon, Peru, and Mexico afford some of the choicest -perfumes, Central Europe is the actual flower garden of the perfumer, -Grasse, Cannes, and Nice being the principal places for the production -of perfume-materials. Thanks to the geographical position of these -places, the cultivator, within a comparatively narrow space, has at his -disposal various climates suitable for the most perfect development -of the plants. The _Acacia Farnesiana_ grows on the seashore, without -having to fear frost, which in one night might destroy the entire crop, -while at the foot of the Alps, on Mount Esteral, the violet diffuses a -much sweeter odor than in the hotter regions, where the olive and the -tuberose reach perfect bloom. England asserts its superiority in oils -of lavender and peppermint. The volatile oils obtained from plants -cultivated in Mitcham and Hitchin command a considerably higher price -than those from other localities, this preference being justified only -by the delicacy of their perfume. Cannes is best suited for roses, -acacias, jasmine, and neroli, while in Nimes, thyme, rosemary, and -lavender are chiefly cultivated. Nice is celebrated for its violets, -while Sicily furnishes the lemon and orange, and Italy the iris and -bergamotte. - -The odors exhaled by our own domestic plants have been but little -studied, but the southern as well as many northern districts of the -United States are well adapted for the cultivation of quite a number -of species of plants which might be made to yield highly valuable -articles of commerce. Among the plants which might furnish oils for the -perfumer's use are, for instance, the wall flower, the Lilly, lilac and -mignonette. - - -VOLATILE OILS.--The volatile oils are either fluid (actual volatile -oils) or solid (varieties of camphor) or solutions of solid -combinations in fluid. The latter, on exposure to low temperatures, -separate into two portions, one solid, called _stearoptene_, and the -other liquid, called _elæoptene_. The boiling point of the volatile -oils is considerably higher than that of water, but when heated with -water they pass over with the vapors. Upon paper, fluid volatile oils -produce grease spots, which differ, however, from those caused by fat -oils in that they gradually disappear at an ordinary temperature, -and rapidly by gentle heating. Most volatile oils are insoluble, or -only with difficulty and sparingly soluble, in water, but they impart -to the latter their odor and taste. They are readily soluble in -alcohol, ether, chloroform, bisulphide of carbon and petroleum-ether, -and miscible in every proportion with fats and fat oils. By their -solubility in alcohol they differ from most fat oils. When freshly -prepared many volatile oils are colorless, but soon turn yellow; -some, however, show a distinct color even when fresh. They ignite -with greater ease than fat oils and burn with a fierce smoky flame -depositing a large amount of carbon. They exhibit a great tendency to -absorb oxygen from the air and to gum, the influence of light promoting -the process. In specific gravity they range from about 0.75 to 1.17, -most of them being specifically lighter than water. Most bodies, under -otherwise equal conditions, show always exactly the same specific -gravity, the variations being so slight that they may be justly -ascribed to errors of observation. However, one and the same volatile -oil frequently shows such variations in specific gravity, that we are -forced to ascribe this phenomenon to alterations in the constitution -of the oil itself. For the exact determination of the specific gravity -of a volatile oil, it should, therefore, be subjected to examination -immediately after its preparation from the plant or vegetable -substance, which should be as fresh as possible. The influence of -light upon volatile oils is best shown by the following interesting -experiment: If certain volatile oils are distilled in a vacuum or over -burnt lime in a current of carbonic acid, it is no longer possible -to distinguish, for instance, oil of lemon from oil of turpentine; -however, by again exposing the oils to the air, they reacquire their -characteristic odor. - -According to their elementary composition the volatile oils may be -divided into three principal divisions:-- - -1. Volatile oils free from oxygen, terpene (camphene), or hydrocarbons. - -2. Oxygenated volatile oils. - -3. Volatile oils containing sulphur. - -On account of the facility with which most of the volatile oils absorb -oxygen, oils originally free from oxygen are frequently a mixture of -hydrocarbons and combinations containing oxygen. The volatile oils -varying so much in their physical as well as their chemical properties, -a suitable classification of them has thus far been unsuccessful. - -Most of the volatile oils contain a liquid hydrocarbon, _terpene_, -which is characterized neither by special taste nor odor, nor is -the peculiarity of a volatile oil dependent on it. In the direct -distillation of a volatile oil, for instance, lemon oil, this -hydrocarbon (citrene), passes first over and can, therefore, be readily -separated from the constituents on which depend the peculiarity -of lemon oil, and which distil over at a higher temperature. The -specific character of an oil is generally due to the portion of the -oil containing oxygen. Hence, manufacturers have endeavored to free -several of the volatile oils, used for perfumery and the preparation of -food, from the worthless terpene and at the same time to obtain them -in a concentrated form. Carvol is, for instance, caraway oil freed -from carvene (terpene). These concentrated oils are not only purer and -more agreeable in odor and taste and more readily soluble in dilute -alcohol, but, being more concentrated, an equal volume of them goes -much further than ordinary volatile oil. In the price lists these oils -are designated as _extra strong_, _patented_, _concentrated_, _highly -concentrated oils_ or _essences_. - -All the terpenes occurring in the various oils are combinations -having the formula C_{10}H_{16}, or polymeric with it, C_{15}H_{24}, -C_{20}H_{32}, etc. These terpenes exhibiting certain deviations in -regard to their properties, odor, specific gravity, and boiling -points, nearly as many terpenes as there are volatile oils have been -distinguished. It is, however, very likely that these deviations -may be traced back to fortuitous circumstances, for example, to -the admixture of foreign substances occurring together with the -terpenes, and that, by a more accurate examination, the number of -terpenes entitled to be considered pure chemical combinations will be -considerably reduced. By Wallach's labors, the identity of several -terpenes formerly considered distinct, has already been established, -whilst many others have been found to possess properties in common. - -According to the nature and quantity of the odoriferous substances -contained in the plants, various methods, namely, _expression_, -_distillation_, _extraction_, _maceration_, and _absorption_, are -employed for the purpose of obtaining them. - -_Expression._--This is only practicable when the substances are -especially rich in oil and of sufficient softness, as in the case with -the peel of the orange, citron, lemon, etc. In such instances the -material is simply placed in a linen cloth and subjected to a strong -pressure until it ceases to yield oil. The press may be of any size -according to the quantity to be expressed. For small quantities it -generally consists of an iron vessel, having a small opening at the -bottom so that the oil may flow out. The material is placed upon a -perforated bottom inside of the vessel and covered with a well-fitting -iron plate, that can be pressed down by means of a screw. Though the -material is fairly exhausted by such a press, for large operations it -is advisable to make use of a hydraulic press, which is constructed and -managed in exactly the same manner as those used for the expression of -fixed oils. - -By expression a turbid milky fluid is obtained, which consists of -the volatile oil and aqueous substances. The latter are a solution of -various extractive substances and salts in water. This fluid, as it -runs from the press, is received in tall, narrow, glass vessels and -brought into a cool place for clarification. This frequently requires -several days, three distinct layers being generally distinguished. On -the bottom is a mucous layer consisting of cell substances carried -along by the liquid bodies. Over this is a clear fluid consisting -of a solution of extractive substances, vegetable albumen, and -salts, and upon this floats the volatile oil, being specifically the -lightest body, which, by its greater refractive power, can be clearly -distinguished from the aqueous fluid. - -The oil is separated by bringing all that has been expressed into a -bottle provided near the bottom with a lateral neck closed by a cock. -After separating the oil from the aqueous fluid, the latter is allowed -to escape by opening the cock. - -The oil obtained in this manner is still impure, and requires further -treatment to remove small vegetable fibres, invisible to the naked eye, -which float in them, and cause them to be somewhat opaque and slightly -opalescent. By their subsequent decomposition they would also give the -oil a disagreeable odor. - -There are two methods of obtaining the oil entirely clear, viz., -filtration and distillation. Filtration is the cheaper process, but -requires special precautions to exclude the air as much as possible to -prevent the oil from undergoing injurious changes. By arranging the -filtering apparatus so that the oil always comes in contact with only -the same quantity of air, the injurious action of the oxygen is reduced -to a minimum. It is self-evident that the apparatus should not be -placed in the sun, but in a semi-dark, cool place. - - [Illustration: FIG. 1.] - -A filter of simple construction, and performing excellent service, is -shown in Fig. 1. It consists of a large glass bottle, _F_, hermetically -closed by a doubly-perforated cork. The neck of the glass funnel _T_, -the upper rim of which is ground smooth, is placed in one of the holes, -and a glass tube, _r_, bent at a right angle, is fitted into the second -hole. A thick wooden lid, with a rubber ring on the lower side, is -placed upon the funnel, thus closing it air-tight. In the centre of the -lid is fitted a glass tube, _r´_, also bent at a right angle, which is -connected with the tube _r_, by a rubber hose, _k_. After the funnel -has been provided with filtering paper and the oil to be filtered, the -lid is placed upon it, and must not be removed, except for the purpose -of pouring more oil into the funnel. The air in the bottle _F_ is -displaced by the oil dropping into it, and escapes through _r_, _k_ and -_r´_ into the funnel, and thus only the air in the bottle and funnel -can act upon the oil. - -The other method for the complete purification of expressed oil is -by rectification or distillation with water. For this purpose the -oil, together with a little water, is brought into one of the stills -described later on, and the oil distilled over. It is sometimes -difficult to obtain the last portion of the oil, especially with a -still heated by direct fire, and it is therefore preferable to combine -it with a fresh quantity of the same oil to be distilled. - -_Distillation._--There are at present two methods in use. The one is -founded upon the direct action of the heat, the other upon the use -of steam. The first was formerly in general practice, and is still -largely employed in France and England, and to a limited extent in -this country. It is, however, very deficient in many respects. As the -stills must necessarily be of small capacity, only small quantities -can be distilled at one time, and the oils very rarely possess the -peculiar odor due to them, and sometimes the odor is even altered. -In mixing too little water with the materials to be extracted, there -is danger that empyreumatic oils will be formed; a large quantity of -water, on the other hand, is of disadvantage, in so far as in case -the perfume-materials contain little oil, only a perfumed water, but -no oil, will be obtained. In order to avoid these inconveniences, or, -at least, to do away with some of them, another plan was devised. The -materials to be distilled were spread upon sieves, which were suspended -in the upper part of a still, so that they might be penetrated from -below. It is true no scorching is possible in this case, as was in the -other process when the heating was continued after all the water had -evaporated, and the oil retains its proper color, but by this method -only small quantities can be extracted at a time. The still generally -used for distillation with direct heat resembles so much an ordinary -whiskey still as to need no further description here. - - [Illustration: FIG. 2.] - -For the accurate determination of the percentage of volatile oil a -vegetable substance will yield, or to obtain the oil from very costly -raw materials, the small glass apparatus, Fig. 2, is used. The flask -_A_, with a capacity of up to 5 or 6 quarts, serves for a still. In -the tube _t_, shaped like the neck of a bottle, is inserted by means -of a cork, a funnel tube, _l_, reaching to the bottom of the flask. -The neck of the flask passes into the cooling pipe, which lies in a -so-called Liebig cooler. This consists of a wide-glass tube, _C_, into -the lower end of which, at _h_, flows cold water from the reservoir -_D_, displacing the heated water at _g_. The lower end of the cooling -pipe is connected with the neck-shaped tube _v_, under which stands the -vessel for the reception of the distillate. To prevent the cracking of -the flask, which might readily happen with the use of direct heat, it -is placed in a vessel filled with sand or water. - - [Illustration: FIG. 3.] - -A very good small apparatus for the distillation of volatile oil is -shown in Fig. 3. It is known as a siphon still. It consists of a -double-walled boiler, surmounted by a still-head, which is provided -with a mechanism for keeping the contents of the boiler in motion. This -stirring apparatus consists of a perpendicular shaft, bearing a frame -work of iron, curved so as to correspond to the interior shape of the -still, and on the outside carrying a chain which scrapes over the inner -surface of the still while the stirrer is being turned. This may be -done either by hand or by steam. The still having been charged with -the material to be extracted, is filled up with water to within a few -inches of the top of the body of the still, and the latter is heated by -admitting steam. The vapors arising are conducted to a cooler situated -at a higher level than the still itself, and the condensed liquid -is collected in a receiver, where the oil and water separate. This -receiver is provided with two faucets, one near the top and the other -near the bottom. If the oil passing over is heavier than water, the -excess of the latter is removed by the upper faucet; if the oil swims -on the water, the lower faucet is regulated so as to allow the water -to escape in about the same ratio as it enters the receiver. In either -case the condensed water is made to run back into the still, and the -loss of oil is, therefore, greatly reduced. - -Sometimes a single-walled still is used, and distillation carried on -with direct steam. This method is, however, not suitable where the -presence of water is necessary, for instance, in the production of oil -of bitter almonds. - -A simple way of converting an ordinary still into use with steam is -shown in Fig. 4. For the helmet of the still _A_ is substituted a -cylindrical vessel, _B_, with an opening in the bottom. The materials -to be distilled are brought into _B_, and rest upon a wire bottom -to prevent particles from falling into _A_. From the upper portion -of _B_ a pipe, _R_, leads to the condenser. As may be seen from the -illustration, the still _A_ serves only for the generation of steam. -The latter, in passing through _B_, heats the contents and absorbs the -liberated oil, the combined vapors passing into the condenser. - - [Illustration: FIG. 4.] - -This simple modification of the ordinary still affords some advantage, -the principal being the avoidance of the condensation of a large -quantity of water. This in itself would not amount to much, but it has -to be taken into consideration that, though volatile oils are only very -sparingly soluble in water, they are nevertheless soluble in it to -such a degree as to impart to it their characteristic odor and taste. -Such aromatized water can be utilized in the manufacture of liqueurs -and perfumery, but to the manufacturer who restricts himself to the -production of volatile oils alone, this represents a loss, and it is -therefore necessary for him to condense as little water as possible. -And this object can only be attained by the use of direct steam. - -A simple apparatus for the purpose is shown in Fig. 5. The still _b_, -provided with a helmet, rests free upon a suitable support. To prevent -cooling, it is surrounded with a wooden jacket, _M_. The material to be -extracted rests upon a perforated bottom, beneath which enters the pipe -_HD_, which conducts the steam from the boiler. For the more uniform -distribution of the steam, it is recommended to let this pipe end in -a perforated coil. The water condensed in the apparatus itself is -discharged through the short pipe _H_, placed in the lowest part of the -still. - - [Illustration: FIG. 5.] - -An improved apparatus for distilling dry substances by steam has -been patented in Germany by Messrs. Schimmel & Co., of Leipzic. The -tall conical column at the left (Fig. 6) is the still. About eight -inches from the bottom is a perforated diaphragm or false bottom, -upon which the material to be distilled is placed by introducing it -through the still-head. A perforated coil below the diaphragm projects -steam upwards through the mass, which is occasionally agitated from -without by means of a horizontal stirring apparatus indicated by the -two crosses. Any condensed water which may run back is converted into -steam by the heating coil at the bottom. Meanwhile, the mass itself is -heated by a long coil lining the body of the still and carrying steam -at a high pressure. Whatever of volatile oil is carried forward by the -steam passes through the still-head into the cooler on the right, where -both oil and steam are condensed, and from where they flow through a -small funnel tube into three successive receivers, which are arranged -like Florentine flasks, and which retain the volatile oil that has -separated. From the last receiver the water, which is still impregnated -with oil, enters another reservoir, shown in the illustration only by -dots, and from there it flows into a small globular still situated -underneath; in which, by means of steam, nearly all the oil still -retained is again volatilized with the steam of the water and both -again conducted to the cooler. - - [Illustration: FIG. 6.] - -Attempts have been made to effect the distillation of volatile -oils without the use of steam by means of hot air, but comparative -experiments have shown that less oil is obtained. With the use of -steam, the vegetable substances swell up by the absorption of water, -and thus afford a free passage to the oil, liberated from the sacs -containing it. With the use of hot air, on the other hand, the surface -of the plant is completely dried and shrivels to a hard solid mass, -which offers considerable resistance to the process of distillation. - -This injurious effect of hot air can be somewhat overcome by thoroughly -moistening the plants to be distilled, and allowing the hot air, -before entering the still, to pass through a pipe filled with sponges -constantly kept wet. But this process offers no advantages over that by -steam. The apparatus required is far more complicated; and, besides, -a ventilator has to be provided for forcing the hot air through the -apparatus. - -_Separation of the oil and water._--As previously mentioned the -specific gravity of most volatile oils is less than that of water. This -behavior is utilized for the separation of the oil and water, by means -of a so-called Florentine flask (Fig. 7). It consists of a glass flask -provided near the bottom with a pipe, _a_, rising vertically to near -the neck _c_ of the flask where it is bent downwards as shown in the -illustration. The mixed liquid of water and oil drips from the cooling -pipe into the flask, and the water _w_, being specifically heavier, -separates from the oil floating on the top, and gradually ascends in -the pipe _a_, finally flowing over at _d_. Oils specifically heavier -than water are caught in receivers provided with a discharge-pipe near -the mouth of the flask as shown in Fig. 8. - - [Illustration: FIG. 7.] - - [Illustration: FIG. 8.] - -The oil delivered from the receivers is, however, still mixed with -some water, dirt, etc., and for their separation is allowed to stand -quietly for some time. The final separation is effected either by -simply pouring off the oil, especially if larger quantities have to be -handled, or with the assistance of a separator-funnel (Fig. 9). This -consists of the glass-funnel _T_ secured to the stand _G_, and provided -with a close-fitting lid, _P_. The fluid is poured into the funnel, the -lid placed in position, and the whole allowed to rest until the water -_W_ is completely separated from the oil _O_. The oil is then separated -from the last drops of water by carefully opening the faucet _H_. - -Most volatile oils are obtained by distillation, but this method is -not practicable for separating the odoriferous principle of many of the -most sweet-scented and delicate flowers, partially because the flowers -contain too little oil, and partially because the oil would lose in -quality if obtained by distillation. - - [Illustration: FIG. 9.] - -_Extraction._--For obtaining the volatile oils by extraction various -solvents such as ether, bisulphide of carbon, etc., may be employed. -Carefully rectified petroleum-ether is very suitable for the purpose. -It completely evaporates at about 122° F., and when sufficiently -purified does not possess a disagreeable odor. The process of -extraction is briefly as follows: The material to be extracted is -treated in a digester with petroleum-ether or one of the above-named -solvents. The solution is then drawn off and the solvent evaporated -in a still. The recondensed solvent flows immediately back into the -digester and further extracts the material contained therein. The -operation is repeated until nothing soluble remains. In practice some -difficulties are, however, connected with this process since, besides -the volatile oils, resins, and coloring and extractive substances are -dissolved, which have to be removed, as well as the last traces of the -solvent, as otherwise the oil would acquire a foreign odor. Further -the solvents mentioned are very volatile and inflammable, requiring -the greatest precautions as regards fire. For these reasons the -extraction process is not suitable for many purposes, and though at -first great hopes were entertained in regard to it, its use is limited -to substances with a large content of volatile oil. - - [Illustration: FIG. 10.] - -For extraction on a small scale, the apparatus, Fig. 10, is a very -suitable one. It is especially adapted for manufacturers of perfumery, -who wish to extract fresh flowers. It consists of a cylindrical vessel, -_C_, of tin plate, provided on the bottom with the stop-cock _a_ and -the pipe _b_. The lid _D_ fits into a gutter, _R_, running around the -edge of _C_, and is hermetically closed by water in _R_. The cylinder -is filled with the vegetable substance to be extracted, and sufficient -petroleum-ether or bisulphide of carbon to cover it, poured in. The lid -is then adjusted, the gutter _R_ filled with water and the apparatus -allowed to stand quietly for forty minutes. To remove the fluid from -the cylinder, the faucet _o_ in the lid is first opened, and then the -stop-cock _a_; the fluid escapes at _b_, and is caught in a well-closed -vessel. The operation may be repeated once or twice, or the vegetable -substance is pressed out by means of a wooden plate, and the apparatus -filled anew. The faucet _h_ serves for emptying the gutter _R_. - - [Illustration: FIG. 11.] - -Extraction being finished, the cock _o_ is opened, and then the cock -_a_, and the fluid allowed to run into the flask of the distilling -apparatus (Fig. 2). For working on a large scale, the flask is, -however, too small, and is suitably replaced by a bottle-shaped tin -vessel, _F_ (Fig. 11), the conical cover _D_ of which is secured by -means of the rubber ring _R_ and iron screw-clamps, _S_. A bent glass -tube fitted into the cover is connected with the cooling-pipe of the -apparatus shown in Fig. 2. But the oils prepared by extraction are not -sufficiently purified by mere rectification, as traces of the solvent -adhere tenaciously to them, which can only be removed by passing a -current of air through the oil. But contact with air has an injurious -effect upon the delicacy of the odor. For expensive oils a current of -air should therefore never be used, but one of pure carbonic acid. -Fig. 12 shows a suitable apparatus for the purpose. The large bottle -_A_, filled half full with pieces of white marble, is closed with -a doubly-perforated cork; through one of the holes is inserted a -funnel-tube, and through the other a short tube bent at a right angle. -The latter is connected with another tube which reaches to the bottom -of the vessel _B_, in which is also inserted a tube open in the bottom, -and a short tube bent at a right angle. Alongside _B_ stands another -vessel, _C_, arranged in the same manner. The tube leading from _C_ is -connected with a tin pipe, _D_, with a rose-like expansion on its lower -end. This pipe is inserted in the glass balloon containing the volatile -oil. Finally, a pipe leads to the flask _F_, filled with water. - - [Illustration: FIG. 12.] - -To put the apparatus in operation, strongly diluted hydrochloric acid -is poured through the funnel-tube upon the pieces of marble in _A_, -which causes the development of a current of carbonic acid. But as the -latter carries along water and hydrochloric acid, it has to be freed -from them before coming in contact with the volatile oil. The vessels -_B_ and _C_ serve for the purpose. _B_ is half filled with water, -while _C_ contains strong sulphuric acid. In _B_ the hydrochloric acid -carried along with the current of carbonic acid is retained, while the -water is fixed on the sulphuric acid in _C_. The current of carbonic -acid passing out from _C_ is perfectly pure, and enters the volatile -oil through the fine perforations in the pipe _D_. It absorbs the -traces of solvent still adhering to the oil, and finally passes out -through the water in the bottle _F_. - -Volatile oils obtained by extraction, and purified by a current of -carbonic acid, will keep for years without undergoing alteration, if -placed immediately in hermetically closed vessels and stored in a dark -place. Oils purified by a current of air always become somewhat thickly -fluid by storing, and partially lose their fine odor, which is due to -the oxygen absorbed during the process. - -For the extraction of oil on a larger scale, the apparatus shown in -Fig. 13 is very suitable. It consists of two principal parts, the -actual extracting vessel _E_, and the still _B_. The extracting vessel -_E_ sits in a vat containing cold water, _W_, the arrangement being -such that the heated water can be removed and replaced by cold. The -still _B_ sits in a boiler, _K_, filled with hot water. - -The apparatus is charged as follows: The conical head _C_ of the -extracting vessel _E_ is unscrewed and its connection at _H_ with the -pipe _R_ loosened. The extracting vessel is then charged with the -vegetable substance, the head _C_ replaced, and the connection with the -pipe _R_ restored. The cocks _H_{2} and _H_{4} are then opened, and -the required quantity of solvent is brought into the still. Both cocks -are then closed, and the cocks _H_ and _H_{1} opened. The water in the -boiler is then heated until the contents of the still commence to boil. -The vapor of the solvent ascends through the pipe _R_; on entering the -extracting vessel _E_ it is condensed, and after falling as a spray -upon the material to be extracted, finally returns impregnated with -volatile oil to the still _B_. Here the solvent is revaporized, and -passes again through the material in the extracting vessel, while the -extracted oil remains in the still. During the boiling of the solvent -the extracting vessel must be suitably cooled by the constant admission -of cold water. - - [Illustration: FIG. 13.] - -When extraction is finished, the cocks _H_ and _H_{1} are closed, and -the cock _H_{2}, which is connected with a cooling worm, is opened. -The solvent is then evaporated, and regained by condensation. The oil -is discharged, from the still through a pipe in the bottom provided -with the cock _H_{3}. - -The apparatus may also be so arranged that the still _B_ is connected -with two extracting vessels which are used alternately, while the -contents of one are being extracted the other is emptied and refilled. - - [Illustration: FIG. 14.] - -For working on a very large scale, Heyl's extracting apparatus, shown -in Fig. 14, is very suitable. It consists of a battery of four or more -cast iron or sheet iron cylinders, _A_{1} to _A_{4}, communicating -with each other and surrounded by steam jackets. The extracting -vessels are so arranged that they can be emptied by tilting, which is -rather inconvenient, as all the pipes have to be unscrewed. In each -cylinder close above the bottom is a perforated plate covered with -fine wire-gauze, upon which the material to be extracted is placed. -The cylinder is filled to the top, and, after placing a similar plate -upon it, the upper opening is closed by a lid suspended to a crane. The -cylinder, as well as the lid, is provided with a broad flange, between -which is placed a hemp tissue firmly pressed together by 12 clamps to -serve for packing. After filling the cylinders with the material to be -extracted and arranging the packing, the solvent (bisulphide of carbon) -is conducted from a reservoir through the principal pipe, _B_, to the -extracting vessels, and is introduced into _A_{2} by opening the cock -_C_{2}, which communicates with the pipe _B_. The bisulphide of carbon -passes through the bent pipe _D_{1}, enters through the cock _E_{2}, -below the false bottom of the cylinder _A_{2}, and, after penetrating -the mass and filling the cylinder, runs through the cock _C_{2} of -the bent pipe _D_{2}, and the cock _E_{3} into the cylinder _A_{3}, -reaching the fourth cylinder in the same manner through the cock -_C_{3}, the pipe _D_{3}, and the cock _E_{4}. From the last cylinder -it passes as a thoroughly saturated oil solution into a reservoir, in -which a vacuum has been created to promote the circulation of the fluid -in the entire apparatus. After a quantity of oil solution corresponding -to the contents of the cylinder _A_{4} has arrived, the cock _G_{4} -is closed and the cock _C_{4} opened, whereby the cylinder _A_{4} is -connected with _A_{1} by the bent pipe _D_{4} and the cock _E_{1}. - -After the exhaustion of the contents of the cylinder _A_{2}, which -is recognized by means of the glass tube _H_{2} placed on _D_{2} by -the fluid running off being colorless, the cocks _C_{1} and _E_{2} -are closed, and _C_{2} and _E_{3} opened, whereby the solvent runs -into _A_{3}, and from there to _A_{4} and _A_{1}; _A_{2} being -omitted. To effect this omission, and at the same time not to prevent -the introduction of bisulphide of carbon, _C_{1}, _C_{2}, _C_{3}, -and _C_{4}, are so-called two-way cocks, which, when placed in one -position, connect the principal pipe _B_ with the branch pipes _D_, but -interrupt a further flow through the principal pipe _B_; while in the -other position they close the pipes _D_ and open the principal pipe _B_. - -The cylinder _A_{2} is, however, still filled with the solvent and -material saturated with it. To remove the solvent, the discharge cock -_K_{2} on the bottom of the cylinder is opened, which communicates -with the discharge pipe _J_, through which the bisulphide of carbon -is conducted into a reservoir. The discharge is promoted by opening -the cock _M_{2}, connected with the pipe _L_, and the admittance of -compressed air, which displaces the liquid solvent. After the flow -of the latter has ceased, the steam cocks on the jacket _O_{2} and -the cylinder _P_{2} are opened under constant admission of air and -simultaneous introduction of steam through the pipe _N_ into the upper -part of the cylinder. - -The solvent (bisulphide of carbon) converted into vapor by the heat, -is conducted together with the aqueous vapor, by the admission of air -through the cock _K_{2}, the pipe _J_, and a cooling pipe placed -between the extracting vessels and the reservoir, and collected in a -reservoir to be re-used. - -On account of the great volatility of bisulphide of carbon, -considerable loss would, however, be incurred by the above-mentioned -admission of air. To avoid this, the reservoir serving for the -reception of the condensed bisulphide of carbon and aqueous vapor -is closed, and connected by a pipe with a long, narrow, horizontal -cylinder half filled with oil, and provided with a fan-shaft. The -vapors of bisulphide of carbon entering the cylinder from the reservoir -are absorbed, together with the air by the oil, the surface of which is -constantly agitated by the fan-shaft, while the air, rendered entirely -inodorous, passes out at the other end. The bisulphide of carbon is -finally separated from the oil by distillation and again used. - -After the cylinder _A_{2} is sufficiently steamed, it is emptied and -again charged with material and connected with the cylinder _A_{1}; -while the other cylinders undergo the same manipulations described -above. - - [Illustration: FIG. 15.] - -The saturated oil solution is subjected to distillation, which is -readily effected in Heyl's apparatus, Fig. 15. The lower part of the -still _A_ of boiler plate is surrounded by the steam-jacket _B_, into -which steam is admitted through _C_ and the condensed water discharged -through _D_. The concentrated oil solution runs from a reservoir, -standing at a higher level through the pipe _E_ into the still, the -admission of a sufficient quantity being indicated by the gauge _F_. -The bisulphide of carbon brought to the boiling point (114° F.) by the -steam introduced into the jacket, vaporizes quickly; the vaporization -being still more accelerated by revolving the stirrer _H_, by means of -the crank _G_. The vapors of bisulphide of carbon escape through four -openings in the upper part of the still, into a capacious worm, the -lower part of which enters, under water, a reservoir. - -Notwithstanding the volatility of bisulphide of carbon, the oil retains -a portion of it so tenaciously that a complete separation cannot -be accomplished by the introduction of steam into the jacket _B_. -Hence, in order to vaporize the last traces of the solvent, air is -introduced into the oil through the pipe _K_, the lower end of which is -perforated. After completed distillation the oil is discharged through -_L_. - -_Maceration or infusion._--This process is employed for flowers with an -inconsiderable content of volatile oil or whose odoriferous substance -would suffer decomposition or alteration by distillation. The process -is founded on the affinity of odoriferous substances for fatty bodies -which, when impregnated with them, are called _pomades_. These are -afterwards made to yield the aroma to strong alcohol, so that finally -there is obtained a solution of the volatile oil in alcohol from which -the pure oil is obtained by distilling off the alcohol. The fat used, -olive oil, lard, etc., should be entirely neutral, _i. e._, free from -every trace of acid. The fats are purified by treating them several -times in the heat with weak soda-lye and then washing carefully with -water until the last traces of the lye are removed, and the fat shows -no alkaline or acid reaction. - -With the use of olive oil the so-called "_Huiles antiques_" are -obtained, which are merely solutions of volatile oils in the fixed oil. -By the use of lard, etc., the genuine _pomades_ are obtained, which are -directly used as expensive articles of perfumery, but in the factories -serve as a starting point for the preparation of volatile oils. - -The old process of maceration, which is still in use in some parts -of France, is as follows: A certain quantity of fat is placed in an -enameled iron or porcelain pan provided with a water or steam bath. -When the fat is melted, the freshly gathered flowers from which the -aroma is to be extracted are thrown in and left to digest for from -twelve to twenty-four hours, the fat being kept fluid and stirred -frequently. When the flowers are completely exhausted, the fat is -strained from them into fresh pots, in which it is again macerated with -fresh flowers as before. This operation is repeated ten to fifteen -times until the pomade has acquired the desired strength. - -Experience, however, has shown that volatile oils prepared by this -process possess a finer odor the shorter the time the flowers remain -in contact with the fat. Piver has devised an apparatus which reduces -the time of maceration to the shortest period possible. The kettle to -the left, Fig. 16, supplies the fat heated to the proper temperature, -which circulates slowly through the macerating tank, in which a -constant temperature of 149° F. is maintained by means of a steam pipe. -The macerating tank is divided into compartments, in which baskets -containing the vegetable substance to be extracted are suspended. The -basket on the left contains the substance which has passed through -all the compartments; it is from time to time removed, filled with -fresh substance, and then attached to the right, the other baskets -being moved to the next compartment to the left. In this way the fresh -substance has to traverse each compartment from right to left, while -the fat flows slowly from left to right, and saturated with the perfume -of the substance collects in the tank on the extreme right. - - [Illustration: FIG. 16.] - -Maceration is employed for the flowers of the orange (_citrus -aurantum_), of the mock orange (_Philadelphus coronarius_), of the -acacia (_acacia Farnesiana_), of the violet (_viola odorata_), of the -mignonette (_réséda odorata_), etc. - -The process of _absorption_, or "_enfleurage_," as it is called by the -French, is chiefly made use of for procuring the odoriferous principle -of very delicate flowers, the delicious odor of which would be greatly -modified, if not entirely spoiled, by the application of heat. The -older apparatus employed for the purpose consists of a number of -shallow wooden frames of about 15×18 inches, inclosing at half their -depth a sheet of glass. The edges of the frame rise about an inch above -each surface of the glass, and, being flat, the frames stand securely -upon one another, forming often considerable stacks. These frames -are called "_chassis_," those just described being termed "_chassis -aux vitres_," or "_chassis aux pomades_," to distinguish them from a -different form, which is used where oil has to be submitted to the -process of absorption. The process in the case of pomade is as follows: -Each sheet of glass is uniformly coated with a thin layer of purified -grease, care being taken that the grease does not come in contact with -the woodwork of the frames. The flowers are then thinly sprinkled, or -rather laid, one by one, upon the surface of the fat, where they are -allowed to remain one or two days, when they are removed and replaced -by fresh ones. The operation is thus continued for twenty-five or -thirty days, until the fat is saturated with aroma. The frames charged -with fat and flowers are stacked one upon the other, forming, in fact, -a number of little rectangular chambers. - -For _perfuming oils_ a metal sieve, Fig. 17, is substituted for the -glass plate. Upon the sieve a piece of thick cotton cloth saturated -with oil is laid, and upon this the flowers are scattered, and left -there until fresh ones have to be substituted. The operation is -repeated until the oil is sufficiently impregnated with aroma, when -the cloth is subjected to pressure and the expressed oil filtered. - - [Illustration: FIG. 17.] - -This process is very tedious, requiring much labor and a long time for -the impregnation of the fat or oil, but, notwithstanding its faults, it -is still pursued to a great extent, some French firms using 3000 such -frames during the season. - -With the apparatus, shown in Fig. 18, the process of absorption can, -however, be conducted with very little expense of labor and time. -It has the further advantage that the flowers do not come in direct -contact with the fat, whereby a saving of the latter is effected, and -it is less liable to rancidity. - -The apparatus consists of a tall wooden box provided with doors which -can be hermetically closed. In the box are placed upon brackets a -number of glass plates, _g_, so arranged one above the other that, for -instance, those with uneven numbers are on the left side, leaving an -open space to the right, while those with even numbers are arranged on -the right side with an open space to the left. - -From the bottom of the box a pipe passes into a sheet-iron cylinder, -_K´_, filled loosely with flowers, and provided with lateral openings, -_O_ and _O´_. From the lid of the box _K_ ascends a pipe, _e_, which -is connected with a small ventilating apparatus kept in motion by a -clockwork and weights. This ventilator when in motion sucks a current -of air through the apparatus. The air enters the cylinder _K´_ at _O_, -and after ascending through the flowers and becoming impregnated with -the vapors of the volatile oil enters through the opening _O´_ into the -box _K_ and, in passing in the direction indicated by arrows, over the -plates coated with fat, yields its aroma to them. - - [Illustration: FIG. 18.] - -Another apparatus for the same purpose, devised by Piver, is shown -in Fig. 19. The fat is converted into thin macaroni-like threads -and brought upon wire gauze stretched in frames. The flowers to -be extracted are piled upon tinned metallic plates, and the trays -containing the fat and the flowers are placed in an air-tight chamber -arranged as shown in the illustration. The air in the chamber is made -to circulate to and fro by the working of a bellows with which the -apparatus is provided, whereby the fat is caused to absorb the odor of -the flowers very rapidly and is less liable to rancidity. - - [Illustration: FIG. 19.] - -The absorption process is employed for the flowers of the jasmine -(_jasminum oderatissimum_), the mignonnette (_réséda odorata_), the -violet (_viola tricolor_), the tuberose (_polianthes tuberosa_), etc. - -_Storage of volatile oils._--In storing volatile oils, they should -be carefully protected from light and air. Some oils become darker -on exposure to light, while others, for instance, lemon oil, become -colorless. Most volatile oils, as previously mentioned, absorb oxygen -from the air with avidity and combine chemically with it. Thinly-fluid -oils become perceptibly more thickly-fluid and finally even rigid, -the product of oxidation being a resinous body. Some volatile oils -containing aldehydes are converted, by the absorption of oxygen, into -acids, cinnamic acid being, for instance, formed in cinnamon oil, and -benzoic acid in oil of bitter almonds. - -To prevent evaporation, as well as the above-mentioned effects of -light and air, the volatile oils should be preserved in not too large -glass bottles kept as full as possible, and closed with a good cork, -over which it is best to tie a piece of bladder. The bottles should be -stored in a cool, shady place. The preservation of the oils is assisted -by the addition of 0.5 to 1 per cent. of anhydrous alcohol. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -TESTING VOLATILE OILS. - - -Volatile oils are much adulterated, the adulterations consisting -chiefly in mixing an expensive oil with a cheaper one and with alcohol; -more rarely with chloroform and fat oils. To these adulterations, which -have been common for many years, has recently been added the previously -mentioned hydrocarbon called terpene or camphene, which is separated in -the preparation of concentrated oils. - -For the recognition of the quality of a volatile oil, serve first of -all its physical properties, especially its color, odor and taste. -The specific gravity varies too much and is not always a sufficient -criterion. Reagents can only be employed with a few oils. The chemical -detection of adulterations is rendered especially difficult by the -fact, that most of the volatile oils form a mixture of terpenes with -other combinations, in which the separate constituent parts do not -appear in fixed, but in changeable proportions, and in which the -constituents themselves suffer alteration by storing, air and light. - -_Odor and taste_ are so characteristic for every volatile oil as to -suffice in most cases. For testing as to odor, bring a drop of the oil -to be examined upon the dry palm of one hand and for some time rub -with the other, whereby the odor is more perceptibly brought out. To -determine the taste, vigorously shake one drop of the oil with 15 to 20 -grammes of distilled water and then test with the tongue. - -An adulteration with _fat oil_ (poppy oil, castor oil) may be -recognized as follows: Place a drop of the suspected oil upon blotting -paper and expose it to the heat of the water bath. If it evaporates -completely and no stain is perceptible, the oil is pure. But frequently -a transparent stain remains with old oils without their being -adulterated, which is due to the resin formed by the absorption of -oxygen and remaining dissolved in the oil. In this case a transparent -ring is generally formed by the concentration of the resin on the -edges of the stain. If no tangible results are obtained by this test, -pour a few cubic centimeters of the oil upon a watch-crystal and -heat it very slowly upon a piece of sheet-iron, until all the odor -has disappeared. If the watch-crystal becomes empty in a short time, -nothing but volatile oil was present; but if a viscous residue remains, -this may consist either of fatty oil or resin, or of both. Treat the -residue with strong alcohol; if it dissolves it may be resin or castor -oil. Dilute the solution with much water; a white flocculent turbidity -indicates resin; the separation of an oily liquid, after standing, -castor oil. If the residue remains undissolved, it consists of a fatty -oil, generally oil of almond or olive. - -The presence of castor oil can be accurately determined by bringing -the residue from the watch-crystal into a test-tube by means of a -glass-rod, and compounding it with a few drops of nitric acid. A -strong development of gas takes place, after the cessation of which, -solution of carbonate of soda is added as long as there is any sign -of effervescence. If the added oil was castor oil, the contents of the -test-tube will show a peculiar odor due to œnanthylic acid formed by -the action of nitric acid upon castor oil. - -Another method of establishing the presence of fat oil consists in -mixing the suspected oil with eight times its quantity of 90 per -cent. alcohol (specific gravity 0.823). If the oil is unadulterated a -clear solution is formed; if it contains fat oil, the latter remains -undissolved. The presence of castor oil, which of the fat oils is -chiefly used for adulteration, is, however, not shown by this method, -it being also soluble in alcohol. - -A permanent stain upon the paper may, however, also be formed by fresh -oils obtained by expression from the respective parts of the plant. -Thus, lemon oil obtained by expression from the peel, and which has -a far more agreeable odor than that produced by distillation, always -leaves behind a slight grease-stain. - -_Detection of alcohol or spirit of wine._--Independent of the alcohol -added to assist the preservation of some oils, adulteration with -alcohol frequently occurs, especially in expensive oils. With a content -of not more than 3 per cent. of alcohol, it suffices to allow one to -two drops of the suspected oil to fall into water. In the presence of -alcohol, the drop becomes either immediately surrounded with a milky -zone, or it becomes turbid or whitish after being for some time in -contact with the water. Dragendorff's test is based upon the fact -that oils, which are hydrocarbons, suffer no change by the addition -of sodium (ten drops of oil and a small chip of sodium), while oils -containing hydrocarbons and oxygenated oils cause with sodium a slight -evolution of hydrogen gas, and suffer but a slight change during the -first five to ten minutes of the reaction. If, however, the oil is -adulterated with alcohol, not only a violent evolution of hydrogen gas -takes place, but the oil in a short time becomes brown or dark brown, -thickly fluid or rigid. - -The detection of alcohol by means of fuchsine, which has been -frequently recommended, requires special precautions. It must first -be ascertained that the oil is free from acids and water; if such -is not the case, they must be removed by means of caustic potash. -After settling, bring, by means of a dry pipette, about five cubic -centimeters of the oil into a dry test-tube about ten millimeters -in diameter, without moistening the walls of the upper half of the -tube. Then bring, by means of a paper gutter, a few milligrammes of -coarsely-powdered fuchsine into the dry part of the obliquely held -tube, at a distance of one centimeter from the oil. Now heat gradually -over a lamp until the tube begins to tarnish. With pure oil no -evaporation is observed, but if the oil contains only 0.1 per cent. -of alcohol, every speck of fuchsine will, after heating to boiling -and setting aside, be surrounded by a stain produced by the alcoholic -solution. The chief requirement for this test is that the oil be free -from water. If such is not the case, vapors will be observed, which -condense in the upper portion of the test-tube, and dissolve fuchsine, -and, after flowing back, sink below the oil with a crackling noise. If -the oil contains alcohol, the condensing vapors dissolve fuchsine with -greater ease, and in flowing back mix without crackling. - -Hager's tannin test is very reliable. Bring into a test-tube 5 to 10 -drops of the oil to be examined, add a piece of tannin the size of a -pea, shake so that the tannin is moistened by the oil, and let the -whole stand at a temperature of 59° to 68° F. In most volatile oils -tannin is insoluble, and, if the oil is pure, floats for days on the -surface without change. If, however, the oil contains alcohol, the -tannin absorbs the latter, according to the quantity present, in 3 to -48 hours, and forms with it a more or less transparent, viscous, tough, -or smeary mass resembling a soft resin, which settles on the bottom, -and adheres so firmly to it, as well as to the sides of the tube, that -it cannot be moved by shaking. The mass may be examined as to its -consistency with a knitting needle. Traces of moisture in the oil are -not detrimental to the test, the tannin mass separating in the form of -a hyaline mass only in few oils, and if this mass is tested with the -knitting needle it will be found not tough or smeary, but hard, and may -sometimes be divided into small grains. With oil of bitter almonds, -cassia oil, and some oils of clove, as well as volatile oil containing -an acid, the tannin test is not available. The first two oils even -dissolve tannin, and large quantities of it, if they contain alcohol. - -The above-mentioned oils may, however, be rendered fit for the -tannin test by mixing them with double their volume of benzine or -petroleum-ether, and allowing the mixture to stand for two or three -days. If, however, the oils contain much alcohol, the tannin is -dissolved. The use of powdered tannin is not advisable, because it -generally deposits in a thin layer on the bottom, and its alteration -is not so perceptible. If, for practical reasons, a content of 0.5 per -cent. anhydrous alcohol might be accepted as permissible in a volatile -oil, the tannin test would have to be so modified as to mix 10 drops -of the oil with a piece of tannin the size of two peas, and allow the -whole to stand for one hour. In this time the above-mentioned content -of alcohol would yield no result. - -_Detection of chloroform._--An adulteration with chloroform, if -moderate, cannot always be detected by the odor and taste. In most -cases, chloroform will considerably increase the specific gravity of -the oil. Bring into a test-tube 15 drops of the suspected oil, 45 to 90 -drops of alcohol, and 30 to 40 drops of dilute sulphuric acid. After -thorough shaking, add 2 or 3 shavings of zinc sheet and heat until a -vigorous evolution of hydrogen takes place. After again shaking, set -the whole aside, and heat again when the evolution of gas becomes -weaker. This heating and gentle shaking of the fluid is several times -repeated. After 20 to 25 minutes, compound the fluid with an equal -volume of cold distilled water, shake vigorously and filter through a -paper-filter moistened with water. Strongly acidulate the filtrate with -nitric acid and compound with nitrate of silver solution. If chloroform -is present, turbidity or a precipitate of chloride of silver appears. - -_Detection of benzine._--An adulteration with benzine can be readily -detected only in oils specifically heavier than water. The separation -of benzine is effected by distillation from a small glass flask in the -water bath. The distillate together with an equal volume of nitric acid -of 1.5 specific gravity is gently heated in a test-tube. A too vigorous -reaction is modified by cooling in cold water, and a too sluggish -action quickened by gentle heating (dipping in warm water). If the -mixture has a yellow color, dilute it with water, shake with ether, -mix the decanted ethereal solution with alcohol and hydrochloric acid, -add some zinc and place the whole in a lukewarm place to convert the -nitrobenzol formed into aniline. After evolution of hydrogen is done, -neutralize with potash lye, shake, take off the layer of ether, let the -latter evaporate and add to the residue a few drops of calcium chloride -solution. If benzine is present, a blue-violet color reaction takes -place. - -Adulterations with alcohol, chloroform, and benzine are quantitatively -determined by bringing a weighed quantity of the oil into a glass flask -so that it occupies about four-fifths of the volume of the flask. Place -upon the flask a cork through which has been passed a glass-tube bent -at a right angle and provided with a cylindrical glass vessel serving -as a receiver and heating in the water bath. If the distance from the -level of the oil to the angle of the glass tube in which it inclines -downwards, amounts, for instance, to 4.72 inches, and the neck of the -flask up to its angle is 2.75 inches high outside of the direct effect -of the heat of the water bath, only the above-mentioned adulterants -distill over, while the vapor of the volatile oil condenses at a -height of 2.75 inches and flows back into the flask. The distillate -is weighed and examined as to its derivation. First add one cubic -centimeter of it to two or three cubic centimeters of potassium acetate -solution of specific gravity 1.197 and shake moderately. If a clear -mixture results, alcohol alone is present. If, however, the mixture -is not clear, and the distilled fluid sinks down and collects on the -bottom of the test-tube, chloroform is very likely present, and if -it remains floating upon the acetate solution, benzine. Next bring -two to three centimeters of the distillate into a test-tube and add -a piece of sodium metal, the size of a pea. If violent foaming, _i. -e._, an evolution of gas, takes place, alcohol is certainly present, -and possibly also chloroform and benzine towards which sodium is -indifferent. However, in the presence of benzine, the sodium solution -would be colorless, and in the presence of chloroform, yellowish -and turbid. In case the sodium produces no reaction and alcohol is, -therefore, not present, add an equal volume (two to three cubic -centimeters) of anhydrous alcohol, and after moderately shaking allow -the solution of the sodium and the evolution of gas to proceed, whereby -benzine produces a nearly colorless, turbid fluid, and chloroform a -yellowish, milky one. Now dilute the fluid with an equal or double -volume of water, shake and allow the mixture to stand quietly. In the -presence of benzine a colorless, turbid layer collects on the bottom -of the fluid, while that collecting in the presence of chloroform is -yellowish. In the latter case, _i. e._, in the presence of chloroform, -the aqueous filtrate yields with lead acetate solution a white -precipitate (lead chloride and lead hydroxide). The adulterant having -thus been recognized, further particulars are learned from the specific -gravity of the oil as well as of the distillate. - -Adulterations with _terpenes_ or _terpene-like fluids_, such as are -gained in the preparation of concentrated or patent oils, are difficult -to recognize. They may be detected by the specific gravity, the -terpenes being, as a rule, specifically lighter, their specific gravity -varying between 0.840 and 0.870. - -The detection of _adulterations with volatile oils of a lower quality_ -is very difficult, if not led to it by the odor and taste. Many methods -for establishing such adulterations have been proposed, of which the -following are the most important:-- - -I. _Test with iodine._--This test is based upon the fact that some oils -violently detonate with iodine, while others develop heat and vapors, -and others again remain indifferent. For this test pour upon about 0.19 -gramme of dry iodine in a watch-crystal 4 to 6 drops of the oil to be -examined. - -1. A vigorous reaction (detonation) with considerable increase in the -temperature and emission of vapors takes place with the following -oils: oils of bergamot, lemon, lavender, nutmeg, orange peel, spike, -turpentine, wormwood. - -2. Such a reaction as mentioned under 1, does not take place with oils -of bitter almonds, copaiba, calamus, clove, peppermint, rose. - -3. Moderate heating and slight vapors are developed with oils of -anise-seed, fennel, camomile, curly mint, marjoram, rosemary, -sassafras, thyme. - -When an oil of the second series becomes heated with iodine and evolves -vapors, it may first of all be adulterated with cheaper oils. This may -also be the case when an oil of the third series reacts violently with -iodine and evolves vapors with strong heating. Formerly the iodine test -was highly valued; it has, however, been shown to be unreliable since -it is frequently dependent on the age of the oil. - -In place of iodine, Rudolph Eck recommends a very dilute alcoholic -iodine solution, which is not discolored by oils of turpentine, while -other oils discolor it. Dissolve a drop of the oil to be examined in -3 cubic centimeters of 90 to 100 per cent. alcohol, and add a drop of -the iodine solution. The latter is not discolored in the presence of -an oil of turpentine. There are also, however, several volatile oils, -which do not discolor the iodine solution. Mierzinski mentions the -following: All cold-expressed oils from the _Aurantiaceæ_, further -oils of coriander, caraway, galanga, rue, sassafras, rose, rosemary, -anise-seed, fennel, calamus, neroli, angelica, wormwood. Hence, this -reaction cannot be relied upon. - -II. _Hoppe's nitroprusside of copper test._--This test sometimes gives -good results, but only with hydrocarbons absolutely free from oxygen -and oxygenated oils. It is, therefore, not suitable for oils derived -from the _Aurantiaceæ_. The process is as follows: Add to a small -quantity of the oil to be examined in a perfectly dry test-tube, 2 to -5 milligrammes of pure nitroprusside of copper previously thoroughly -dried and finely pulverized, shake vigorously and gradually heat to -boiling. After boiling for a few seconds allow to cool. If the oil -is free from oil of turpentine, or another oil containing no oxygen, -the precipitate formed is brown, black, or gray, and according to the -quantity of the reagent added and the original color of the oil, the -supernatant oil will be differently colored and appear more or less -dark. If, however, the oil is adulterated with oil of turpentine, -the precipitate formed shows a handsome green or blue-green color, -while the supernatant oil retains its original color or at the utmost -acquires a very slightly darker one. The longer the oil is allowed to -stand after settling, the more distinct and beautiful the color of the -oil and of the precipitate appears. For the establishment and certain -recognition of very small quantities of oil of turpentine in oxygenated -oils, it is best to first add very little of the nitroprusside of -copper to the oil to be tested, and a larger quantity only after being -convinced either of the purity or adulteration of the oil. This is done -to be able, on the one hand, better to judge the reaction, if the oil -is pure, and, on the other, if it is adulterated, to establish such -adulteration with certainty and to approximately estimate the quantity -of oil of turpentine present. The less nitroprusside of copper is used, -the better small quantities of oil of turpentine can be detected. - -Nearly all volatile oils free from oxygen show the same behavior -towards nitroprusside of copper; they decompose it, which is not the -case with oxygenated oils. The behavior of the latter is shown in the -following table:-- - - -------------+---------------+---------------+------------------+------------- - | | Proportion of | Color of the oil | - Name of | Color of the | nitroprusside | after | Color of the - the oil. | oil. | of | the experiment. | precipitate. - | |copper to oil. | | - -------------+---------------+---------------+------------------+------------- - Caraway |clear as water | 1 : 1000 parts|slightly | dirty gray. - | and colorless | | yellowish | - Fennel |pale yellowish | 1 : 1000 " |brownish-yellow | black. - Dill |pale | 1 : 1000 " |becomes first | " - | reddish-yellow| | colorless, then | - | | | yellowish | " - Anise-seed |pale yellow | 1 : 1000 " |yellow | - | | | " | - Camomile | | | | - (green) |yellowish | 1 : 1000 " |brownish-yellow | ash-gray. - Lavender |pale yellow | 1 : 1000 " |wine-yellow | slate-gray. - " | " | 1 : 100 " |brown-yellow | " - Mint (curly) |colorless | 1 : 1000 " |wine-yellow | first gray, - | | | | then black. - Peppermint | " | 1 : 1000 " |yellowish | black. - " | " | 1 : 100 " |brownish-yellow | " - Balm |yellow | 1 : 1000 " |dark wine-yellow | " - Marjoram |colorless | 1 : 1000 " |yellowish | " - " | " | 1 : 100 " |brown-yellow | " - Sage |slightly | 1 : 1000 " |wine-yellow | dark green. - | yellowish | | | - " | " | 1 : 100 " |brown-yellow | dark green, - | | | | then nearly - | | | | black. - Thyme (field)| " | 1 : 1000 " |brownish-yellow | slate-gray. - " | " | 1 : 100 " |dark brown-yellow | nearly black. - Wormwood |yellow-brown | 1 : 1000 " |dark brown | black. - Tansy |pale yellow | 1 : 1000 " |red-brown | dirty brown. - Milfoil |dark | 1 : 1000 " |first pale blue, | gray-brown. - | azure-blue | | then dark green | - Cajeput |colorless | 1 : 1000 " |brownish-yellow | black. - Clove |slightly | 1 : 2000 " |rose-red and clear| slate-gray. - | yellowish | | | - " | " | 1 : 1000 " |violet-red and | " - | | | clear | - " | " | 1 : 500 " |cherry-red | " - | | | and opaque | - " | " | 1 : 100 " |dark cherry-red | " - | | | and opaque | - Cassia |brownish-yellow| 1 : 1000 " |brownish-red to | black. - | | | hyacinth-red | - " | " | 1 : 100 " |dark brown-red | " - Sassafras |yellowish | 1 : 1000 " |yellowish-brown | " - Star anise |pale yellow | 1 : 1000 " |dark wine-yellow | " - Valerian |pale greenish | 1 : 100 " |brownish-yellow | " - Rue |slightly | 1 : 100 " |brown-yellow | ash-gray. - | yellowish | | | - Bergamotte |yellowish | 1 : 1000 " |dark yellow | " - " | " | 1 : 100 " |brownish-red | " - -------------+---------------+---------------+------------------+------------- - -If these oxygenated oils are mixed with oils free from oxygen, for -instance, oil of turpentine, they show exactly the same behavior as -oils free from oxygen; the nitroprusside of copper is not decomposed -and retains its gray-green color. If, for instance, oil of cloves is -mixed with oil of turpentine, the red coloration by nitroprusside of -copper does not appear. - -III. _Hager's alcohol and sulphuric acid test._--Bring into a test-tube -of about 0.5 inch diameter, five to six drops of the oil to be tested -and twenty-five to thirty drops of pure concentrated sulphuric acid, -and mix the two fluids by shaking, whereby either no heating takes -place or a scarcely perceptible one, or the heating is strong or very -vigorous and in some cases increased to the evolution of vapors. The -mixture is either clear or turbid. After complete cooling, add to the -mixture eight to ten cubic centimeters of 90 per cent. alcohol, and -after closing the tube with the finger, shake vigorously. The mixture -now shows a different color, is clear or turbid, and the deposit formed -after standing for one day is also differently colored and either -soluble or insoluble in boiling alcohol. - -The mixture of oil, sulphuric acid and alcohol is perfectly clear -and transparent with oils of bitter almonds, fennel, clove and rose; -with anise-seed oil and star anise-seed oil only the alcoholic layer -over the mixture of sulphuric acid and oil is clear. The mixture of -oil, acid and alcohol is slightly turbid or nearly clear with oils -of valerian, peppermint and field thyme. With most of the other -volatile oils occurring in commerce, the mixture is more or less milky -turbid. Heating of the oil and acid mixtures does not take place with -pyrogenous oils (petroleum, benzine) or only to a very slight degree, -as with oils of peppermint and mustard. - -IV. _Hager's guaiacum reaction_[3] serves for the detection of oil of -turpentine in a volatile oil. By pouring upon as much guaiacum, freshly -powdered, as will lie upon the point of a small knife, in a test-tube 1 -cubic centimeter (25 drops) of spike oil, and heating nearly to boiling -over a petroleum lamp, the oil after being removed from the flame and -allowing the undissolved resin to settle, shows a _yellow_ color. By -now pouring upon an equal quantity of guaiacum in another test-tube 25 -drops of spike oil and 5 drops of rectified oil of t from the flame -shows a _dark violet color_. Various other oils behave in the same -manner as spike oil, and hence a content of oil of turpentine can be -readily detected in them. Other oils do not exhibit this behavior; but -this can be remedied by adding, in testing for oil of turpentine, a few -drops of an oil of the first class. - - [3] Hager, Chemische Reactionen zur Nachweise des Terpentinoels in den - aetherischen Oelen, etc. Berlin, 1885. - -The guaiacum reaction is an ozone reaction and with reference to this, -the volatile oils may be divided into three classes:-- - -_a. Oils inclining to the formation of ozone._--Foremost of these is -oil of turpentine, especially when rectified. Oils of tansy, rue, mint, -juniper, zedoary, etc., show considerably less inclination. - -_b. Oils which, especially when heated, directly incite the oil of -turpentine to form ozone, and to color guaiacum violet or blue._--Such -oils are many kinds of oil of citronella, oils of spike, calamus, -cedar, etc. - -_c. Oils with a content of oil of turpentine, which remain indifferent -towards guaiacum._--To such oils, if to be tested for oil of -turpentine, with the assistance of the guaiacum reaction, a few drops -of an oil of the second class have to be added. - -V. _Hübl's iodine method._--Mr. C. Barenthin has applied Hübl's iodine -method for fixed oils to the examination of volatile oils. He uses the -following solutions:-- - -1. Fifty grammes iodine and 60 grammes of mercuric chloride in a liter -of alcohol freed from fusel oil, and let stand for 12 hours. - -2. Twenty-four grammes of hyposulphite of sodium in a liter of water. - -3. A ten per cent. solution of iodide of potassium. Dissolve 0.1 to -0.2 gramme of the volatile oil in 10 cubic centimeters of chloroform, -and add first 15 cubic centimeters of the iodine-mercuric chloride -solution; let stand three or four hours, and, in case the mixture gets -discolored, add a few more centimeters of solution. Now add 10 to 15 -cubic centimeters iodide of potassium solution, dilute with 150 cubic -centimeters of water, and titrate with hyposulphite till the mixture -remains clear for about a minute. The iodide of potassium solution -must be added before the water, and the relative proportions between -this solution and the iodine-mercuric chloride solution must be 15 -to 20 cubic centimeters. The quantity of iodine solution consumed is -calculated to iodine for 100 parts and the figure thus obtained is -designated as the "iodine number." - -Barenthin has in this manner determined the iodine number of several -volatile oils; other experimenters, however, for instance, Kremel and -Davies,[4] have found different numbers for the same oils, so that -this method requires further thorough examination before it can be -classed as available. - - [4] Pharm. Centralh. 1888, S. 482 u. 555; 1889, S. 133. - -VI. A. Kremel has endeavored to utilize _titration or saponification -with alcoholic potash lye_ for the examination of volatile oils. In his -experiments he was guided by the following points: A series of volatile -oils contains partially free organic acids, like oils of bitter almonds -and cinnamon, and partially aldehydes or other combinations. Now it -seems not impossible, that up to a certain limit, the quantities of -these combinations in the separate volatile oils remain constant, thus -presenting the opportunity of testing the respective oils as to their -quality and purity by saponification. In some cases these combinations -are the chief bearers of the specific odor, and hence the determination -of the "_saponification number_" becomes of double value. It is, of -course, self-evident that not every volatile oil can be saponified, and -Kremel admits that, even where saponification takes place, it is not in -every case a sure test. - -The execution of the method is as follows: Dissolve 1 gramme of -the oil to be examined in 2 to 3 cubic centimeters of 90 per cent. -alcohol freed from acid, compound the solution with a few drops of -phenol-phthalein solution, and titrate the free acid with ½ normal -alcoholic potash lye. The milligrammes of caustic potash used are -designated the "_acid number_." After having thus determined the -content of acid, add to the same solution 10 cubic centimeters of -the same potash lye, heat for ¼ hour upon the water bath, and then -titrate back the excess of potash lye with ½ normal hydrochloric -acid. In this manner the "_saponification number_" is obtained. (In -some cases when the final reaction is not plainly perceptible, it -is advisable to correspondingly dilute with water after heating the -alcoholic fluid.) The saponification number, less the acid number, -gives the "_ether_ or _ester number_." - -Kremel has in this manner examined a large number of volatile oils and -partially obtained surprising results. Rose oil gives a saponification -number of 12, and geranium oils one of 40 to 50. While lavender -oils give very high saponification numbers, oil of lemons does not. -Artificial oil of bitter almonds shows higher saponification numbers -than the natural oil. By further compounding the saponified portions of -the latter with acid, a crystalline precipitate of benzoin is formed, -the quantity of which amounts to from 40 to 50 per cent. of the oil -used. Such a precipitate, but only in very small quantities, is also -formed in peach kernel oil, but not in other similar oils nor in -artificial oil of bitter almonds. - -VII. F. R. Williams has recently endeavored to utilize for testing -volatile oils Maumené's test, which is based upon the increase in -temperature produced in oils by concentrated sulphuric acid, and -which gives valuable points for the examination of some fat oils. Of -course, the large quantities of oil otherwise prescribed cannot be -used. While for the examination of fat oils 50 grammes of oil are mixed -with 10 cubic centimeters of concentrated sulphuric acid in a beaker -glass wrapped around with cotton, Williams could use only six cubic -centimeters of volatile oil. They were brought into a very small beaker -glass enveloped in cotton. After reading off the temperature, twelve -cubic centimeters of concentrated sulphuric acid were added and the -whole stirred with the thermometer until the temperature no longer -rose. Numbers were in this manner obtained which might in some cases, -for instance, cassia oil, furnish guiding points for judging the purity -of the oil. - -Planchon proposes the following procedure in order to recognize a -volatile oil:-- - - -A. _The oil is specifically lighter than water._ - -1. The substance is solid and only melts at 347° F.: _Camphor_. - -2. The oil at a temperature of over 32° F. contains a crystalline -stearoptene. - - _a._ The oil is laevorotatory, the stearoptene melts at 77° F., and, - on adding sulphuric acid, a clear solution remains behind: _Rose oil_. - - _b._ The oil possesses no rotatory power, the stearoptene melts at 50° - F., and, on adding sulphuric acid, two layers are formed, only one of - which is liquid: _Anise-seed oil_. - - _c._ The oil is dextrorotatory, the stearoptene melts at 41° F., and, - on adding sulphuric acid, a nearly colorless fluid remains behind: - _Fennel oil_. - -3. The oil is perfectly fluid and clear at above 32° F. - -I. The oil explodes with iodine, emitting violet vapors. - - _a._ The oil thickens in the air and readily forms resin. It requires - for its solution several volumes of alcohol: _Oil of conifers_. - - _b._ The oil, on exposure to the air, does not thicken and but slowly - forms resin. - - α. It is dextrorotatory. - - The liquid oil dissolves santalin: _Oil of the aurantiaceæ_. - - The thick oil does not dissolve santalin: _Mace oil_. - - β. The oil is laevorotatory. - - The oil shows an acid reaction and dissolves in equal parts of - alcohol: _Lavender oil_. - - The oil shows a neutral reaction and dissolves in 12 to 15 parts of - alcohol: _Marjoram oil_. - -II. The oil gives no explosion with iodine, but shows an increase in -temperature with or without emission of red vapors. - - _a._ The oil shows an acid reaction. - - α. The blue or green oil shows the acid reaction only - indistinctly: _Milfoil oil_. - - β. The colorless or brown oil gives a turbid fluid with sulphuric - acid. It is laevorotatory: _Spanish marjoram oil_. - - The oil is rendered but slightly turbid by sulphuric acid; it acquires - a red-violet color by nitric acid, has no effect upon the plane of - polarization, and has a peculiar odor: _Oil of valerian_. - -_b._ The oil is neutral. - - α. It dissolves with difficulty in alcohol. - - β. The oil is miscible in every proportion with alcohol. - - 1. It is dextrorotatory. - - The oil is colorless or yellowish, it thickens on exposure to the air, - and dissolves and reduces fuchsine: _Caraway oil_. - - The oil is thick, yellow-brown or red-yellow, and has a peculiar odor: - _Calamus oil_. - - 2. The oil is laevorotatory. - - It is fluid and has an aromatic odor: _Rosemary oil_. - - The oil is thick and very pungent: _Cubebs oil_. - -III. The oil dissolves iodine without vigorous reaction and without an -increase in the temperature. - - _a._ The oil is blue and green. - - It has an agreeable, camphor-like odor: _Camomile oil_. - - The green oil thickens in the air and is dextrorotatory: _Wormwood - oil_. - - The oil is generally green and produces no effect upon the plane of - polarization: _Cajeput oil_. - -_b._ The oil is colorless or yellow-brown. - - α. It separates a solid stearoptene at about 32° F.: _Rue oil_. - - β. The oil remains liquid at several degrees below 32° F. - - 1. Dextrorotatory oils. - - The oil shows an acid reaction, and gives with sulphuric acid a - somewhat turbid solution, which becomes clear by the addition of - alcohol: _Dill oil_. - - The oil gives with sulphuric acid a yellow-red turbid solution, which - becomes clear and peach-blossom red by the addition of alcohol: - _Eucalyptus oil_. - - 2. Laevorotatory oil. - - The oil showing an acid reaction becomes thick in the air and has a - characteristic odor: _Mint oil_. - - The oil shows a neutral reaction and has a camphor-like odor: - _Thyme oil_. - -IV. The oil does not dissolve iodine, does not heat with sulphuric -acid, and does not react upon nitric acid. The odor is empyreumatic: -_Petroleum_. - - -B. _The oil is specifically heavier than water._ - -1. The oil shows an acid reaction. - - It is soluble in 30 parts of water, boils at 356° F., and smells of - bitter almonds: _Oil of bitter almonds_. - - The oil has an agreeable, sweet odor and boils at from 392° to 431.6° - F.: _Wintergreen oil_. - -2. The oil shows a neutral reaction. - - _a._ The oil is laevorotatory. - - It becomes blue by the addition of sulphuric acid: _Oil of cloves_. - -_b._ The oil is optically inactive. - - The thick oil gives with sulphuric acid a turbid, black-brown fluid; - the odor is agreeable: _Cinnamon oil_. - -_c._ The oil is dextrorotatory. - - The thick oil has an agreeable odor: _Sassafras oil_. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -THE VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY. - - -The volatile oils, as previously mentioned, may be divided into three -groups, viz: the pure hydrocarbons, oxygenated oils, and sulphuretted -oils. Chemically, this division is, however, of little value, since, -among bodies which should be classed according to it in one of the -groups, combinations are found which vary very much in a chemical -respect, and belong partially in the groups of alcohols, indifferent -bodies, acids, etc. - -It is, therefore, preferred not to attempt a classification of the -volatile oils according to their chemical composition, but simply to -enumerate them in alphabetical order. - -_Acacia, oil of_, commonly called _oil of cassie_. The flowers or -buds of the _acacia Farnesiana_ yield a somewhat thickly-fluid, -greenish-yellow oil of a very intense but delightful odor. The oil -may be obtained either by extraction or absorption. The acacia is -cultivated in special plantations along the _Riviera di Genova_. These -plantations being controlled by a few perfumers, the oil is not allowed -to reach the market, and does not form an article of commerce. The -green-colored _extrait d'acacia_ is a solution of the oil in alcohol. - -_Almond oil_ (_bitter_) (_oleum amygdalæ amaræ_) is obtained by -submitting bitter almond cake (left after the expression of the fixed -oil from bitter almonds) to distillation with water. The volatile -oil does not exist ready formed in the bitter almond, nor in the -almond cake, but results from the decomposition of a glucoside called -"amygdalin," contained in the cake, under the influence of emulsin and -water, the emulsin acting as a ferment, into benzylic aldehyde, glucose -and prussic acid. The almond tree grows wild, but is also cultivated -in Southern Europe, Africa, Barbary, Palestine and Syria. The bitter -almonds brought from Barbary are considered the best. Besides, in -almonds, amygdalin occurs in various other plants; for instance, in -the leaves of the cherry laurel, the leaves and kernels of the peach, -the kernels of the black cherry and other varieties of _prunus_ -and _amygdalus_, they all yielding, after maceration with water, a -distillate containing prussic acid and oil of bitter almonds. - -Instead of the comparatively expensive bitter almonds, peach kernels -freed from their hard shells are extensively used in the fabrication -of oil of bitter almonds. The oil is prepared as follows: The press -cakes of bitter almonds or peach kernels are ground and soaked about -twenty-four hours in twice their weight of water to which one-third -their weight of salt has been added. The whole is then submitted to -distillation. The temperature of the water should not exceed 113° to -122° F. The emulsin contained in the almonds possesses only within -certain limits of temperature the power of decomposing amygdalin, -and, if heated to 176° F., becomes inoperative. Hence, if the almond -paste is quickly heated to boiling, the emulsin becomes inoperative -before all the amygdalin is decomposed, and a portion of it being -consequently lost, the yield is insufficient. The distillation of the -almond paste is effected in a current of steam. - -A portion of the prussic acid formed by the decomposition of the -amygdalin adheres tenaciously to the oil. This content of prussic acid -makes the oil of bitter almonds exceedingly poisonous, while in itself -it is non-poisonous. It can be freed from the prussic acid by shaking -with ferrous sulphate (blue vitriol) solution. By then distilling -over burnt lime the originally yellow or yellowish oil is obtained -colorless. It is then thinly fluid, of a peculiar agreeable odor and -strongly nutty taste. Its specific gravity is 1.043 at 59° F., but -varies a little with age. It boils at 356° F., and dissolves in 13 -parts of water, but more readily in alcohol and ether. In the air it is -rapidly converted into benzoic acid by the absorption of oxygen. It has -to be carefully protected from air and light and kept in well-closed -bottles in a dark place. The crude oil, containing from 2 to 5 per -cent. prussic acid, has generally a yellowish color. - -Oil of bitter almonds may be prepared artificially in many ways. By -allowing chlorine to flow into boiling toluene, the latter is converted -into benzyl chloride:- - - C_{6}H_{5}(CH_{3}) + Cl_{2} = C_{6}H_{5}(CH_{2}Cl) + HCl - - └----toluene-----┘ └-benzyl chloride--┘ - chlorine hydrogen - chloride - -By withdrawing the chlorine and one atom hydrogen from the benzyl -chloride and introducing for it one atom oxygen, the benzyl chloride -is converted into benzaldehyde. This conversion is readily effected -by continuously boiling, best with the introduction of carbonic acid, -1 part of benzyl chloride with 1½ parts of lead nitrate and 10 parts -of water, and finally distilling the benzaldehyde off by steam. The -decomposition takes place according to the following equation:-- - - 2[C_{6}H_{5}(CH_{2}Cl)] + Pb(NO_{3})2 = - 2[C_{6}H_{5}(CHO)] + PbCl_{2} + N_{2}O_{3} + H_{2}O. - -The crude benzaldehyde thus obtained is agitated with warm solution -of acid sodium sulphite, the solution formed thereby is separated -from undissolved oily particles and cooled, whereby a combination -of benzaldehyde with acid sodium sulphate crystallizes out. This -combination is separated from the remaining fluid, decomposed by acid -and submitted to distillation, whereby benzaldehyde passes over. Large -quantities of benzaldehyde are at present prepared according to this -method. The identity of benzaldehyde with oil of bitter almonds has -been established by Lippmann and Hawliczek. - -Genuine oil of almonds is much adulterated, chiefly with alcohol, -nitrobenzole, and various cheaper oils. An addition of 3 to 5 per cent. -of alcohol is frequently made by Italian dealers in order to conceal a -content of water, which at a low temperature is apt to render the oil -turbid. To detect the presence of alcohol, moderately heat a sample -of the oil in a distilling apparatus and compound the drops, first -passing over with sodium carbonate solution and then with potassium -iodide solution. In the presence of alcohol a yellowish crystalline -precipitate of iodoform is formed. - -An addition of synthetically composed oil might seem of no importance, -since the natural oil does not differ from it. However, for very -fine perfumery the natural oil cannot be replaced by the artificial, -it having been thus far impossible to obtain the latter absolutely -chemically pure. It always contains small quantities of undecomposed -chlorine combinations which injure the taste and odor. To detect such -oil in the natural oil, bring a few drops upon a tuft of cotton and -ignite it. Over the burning flame invert a beaker moistened inside with -water. On the moist sides of the beaker the soot and hydrochloric acid -formed by the combustion of the chlorine combination are precipitated. -When the flame is extinguished, the beaker is rinsed out with water, -the fluid filtered and tested for chlorine with nitrate of silver. -An addition of 10 per cent. artificial oil can in this manner be -accurately determined. - -If genuine oil of bitter almonds containing prussic acid, be heated -with an excess of alcoholic potash lye, and the excess of the latter -be neutralized with hydrochloric acid, benzoin amounting to 40 to 50 -per cent. of the weight of oil of bitter almonds is, according to A. -Kremel, separated. By subjecting artificial oil of bitter almonds to -the same treatment, no benzoin is separated, so that the genuine oil -can in this manner be distinguished from the artificial. Kremel further -found that oil of bitter almonds prepared from apricot kernels, when -treated in an analogous manner, yielded considerably less benzoin, -and that cherry-laurel oil containing prussic acid, which has been -considered identical with oil of bitter almonds, separated no benzoin -whatever. Should further experiments prove the constancy of this -phenomenon, this reaction would be a convenient means of distinguishing -the four products. - -An adulteration with nitrobenzole and other volatile oils is recognized -by mixing 2 drops of the oil with 100 drops of distilled water, -and shaking vigorously. Pure oil must completely dissolve. However, -the test yields accurate results only with the use of actually pure -distilled water and by accurately observing the above-mentioned -proportions. If to 5 cubic centimeters of 90 per cent. alcohol and -an equal quantity of distilled water in a test-tube, 10 drops of the -oil be added, and, after closing the tube with the finger, mixture be -effected by gently turning the tube twice upside down, a clear solution -will immediately result if the oil is pure. If, however, it contains -nitrobenzole, even only 1 per cent., the latter separates, at first -rendering the fluid turbid, but in the course of a minute, when gently -agitated, it floats in the form of minute drops upon the fluid, while, -when at rest, these drops collect to larger ones on the bottom of the -test-tube. If the oil becomes only turbid, adulteration with other -volatile oils is indicated. Another test, given by Wagner, is based -upon the difference in the specific gravity of mixtures of oil of -bitter almonds with oil of mirbane. The specific gravity of commercial -oil of bitter almonds varies between 1.040 and 1.043 and that of oil -of mirbane between 1.180 and 1.201. - - 5 c. c. of pure oil of bitter almonds weigh 5.29 grammes. - 5 " mixed with ¼ oil of mirbane " 5.39 " - 5 " " " ½ " " " 5.57 " - 5 " " " ¾ " " " 5.75 " - 5 " of pure " " " 5.90 " - - -Oil of bitter almonds is much used in the fabrication of perfumery. In -a pure state its odor is by no means agreeable, but rather strong and -stupefying. When strongly diluted it is, however, very pleasant. - -_Angelica oil_ is obtained by distillation with water from the root -of _Angelica Archangelica L._, natural order _Umbelliferae_. The oil -is lighter than water, possesses the spicy odor of the root and an -aromatic pungent taste. It consists mostly of a terpene which turns the -plane of polarization to the right, and boils at 320° F. - -Besides the oil from the root, one obtained from the seeds also occurs -in commerce. It is, however, more expensive. In a fresh state it is -amber-yellow, and has a specific gravity of 0.8549 at 59° F.; older -oil is thickly-fluid, brown, and has a specific gravity of O.9086. It -contains a terpene which turns the plane of polarization to the right, -and has a lemon-like odor. It is used for fine perfumery. - -_Anise-seed oil_ (_oleum anisi_). The anise (_Pimpinella anisum L._), -natural order _Umbelliferae_, contains volatile oil in all parts, but -chiefly in the seeds. Dry anise-seed yields by distillation 2½ to 3 per -cent. of oil, while the peduncle and chaff contain at the utmost 1 per -cent. of oil, which is said to be richer in stearoptene. The anise-seed -oil prepared in Southern Russia has always been highly valued, but as -it is generally considerably adulterated, the Leipsic manufacturers of -volatile oils prefer to import the seed and distill it themselves. - -Freshly prepared anise-seed oil is colorless or straw-yellow, has the -odor of anise and a sweetish taste, leaving a burning sensation upon -the tongue. It is thinly fluid at 68° F., but commences to congeal -at a somewhat lower temperature, and the sooner the more stearoptene -it contains. Good oil should become solid at from 57.2° to 60.8° F. -It has a specific gravity of 0.980 to 0.995 at 59° F. The specific -gravity varies with the content of stearoptene; the greater the latter -the higher the specific gravity. Good anise-seed oil contains 5 to 10 -per cent. of terpene and 90 to 95 per cent. of a stearoptene, called -anethol, C_{10}H_{12}O, on which the value of the oil depends. The -anethol can be separated from the oil by cooling to 32° F., and forms -colorless crystals. It has an agreeable odor and intensely sweet taste, -is sparingly soluble in water, but readily in alcohol, ether, and other -solvents of volatile oils. Good anethol has a specific gravity of -0.986, and melts at 69° to 70° F. By frequent contact with the air a -small portion of the anethol is oxidized, very likely to anisaldehyde. -By this process the specific gravity is raised and the melting point -lowered. - -Anise-seed oil is soluble in 5 parts of 90 per cent. alcohol, and with -3½ times its volume of petroleum-ether yields a clear mixture. Its -mixture with four times its weight of petroleum-ether is turbid, but -becomes clear in ten minutes, while that with five times its volume of -petroleum-ether remains for a longer time turbid. In a fluid state the -oil, when exposed to the air, becomes resinous and loses its property -to crystallize. It should, therefore, be kept in tightly-closed bottles -in a cool, shady place. - -Anise-seed oil is used in perfuming soaps and mouth waters. It should, -however, be used with prudence, since the sweetish, penetrating odor of -the oil readily overcomes the other volatile oils in the mixture, and -renders them inoperative. - -_Star anise oil_ very much resembles the ordinary anise-seed oil. It -is obtained from star anise, the fruit of _Illicium anisatum_, a tree -formerly supposed to be indigenous to Cochin China, and cultivated in -China, Japan, and the Phillipine Islands. However, according to Messrs. -Bourgeoin-Meiffre, a French firm of Hanoï (Tonkin), the star anise oil -found in commerce is exclusively produced in the French colony Tonkin -(Province Langson), the French government having made over the entire -sale of the oil to the above-mentioned firm. - -According to a memoir published by Dr. Blondel, of Paris, the star -anise tree is not indigenous to the Chinese provinces Yunnan, Quang-si, -and Fo-Rien, but to the province Langson, which has by conquest passed -into French possession. Hence, the producers of star anise and star -anise oil are now under French control and, as it seems, are obliged -to sell all the oil produced to the above-mentioned firm. If these -statements should prove correct, the Chinese harbors Macao and Hong -Kong, from which the greater portion of star anise oil was formerly -exported, will lose their importance in this respect and the product -find its way direct from Hanoï _via_ Hayphong to Marseilles. The first -shipment from Bourgeoin-Meiffre arrived in Europe in December, 1890. -According to Messrs. Schimmel & Co.'s report, the product is put up and -packed exactly like that formerly shipped from Hong Kong, and the oil -of excellent quality. - -Star anise oil differs from the ordinary oil in containing a much -smaller quantity of anethol, and hence congealing only at a temperature -of from 41° to 50° F. Besides the odor of the terpene contained in star -anise oil differs from that of the ordinary oil. Admixtures of star -anise oil can, therefore, be generally recognized by the odor. Other -methods recommended for its detection are unreliable. - -_Balm oil._--The leaves of this plant, _Melissa officinalis_, yield -by distillation a volatile oil sometimes called oil of melissa. It is -colorless or yellowish, of a pleasant odor, has a specific gravity of -0.85 to 0.92, shows a slightly acid reaction and dissolves in 2 to 3 -parts of alcohol. It must not be confounded with the so-called East -India oil of melissa or citronella oil from _Andropogon Nardus L._ Balm -oil is occasionally used in the preparation of _eau de Cologne_. - -_Basil oil_ is distilled in Southern France from the fresh leaves -of _Ocymum basilicum L._, natural order _Labiatæ_. The oil shows -the peculiar odor of the herb and crystallizes a few degrees above -32° F. In perfumery it is used as an addition to violet and other -preparations. The French also prepare a _pommade basilique_, which -serves as a cheap substitute for violet pomade. - -_Bayberry oil_, or _oil of bay leaves_, is extracted by distillation -from the leaves of _Myrcia acris_ or the bayberry tree. Many varieties -of the tree exist throughout the West Indies, which are scarcely to -be distinguished botanically, but have quite a different odor from -that of the genuine tree. Great care must, therefore, be taken in the -collection of the leaves which are to be used, as the admixture of a -small quantity of the other leaves may entirely spoil the product of -distillation. Two oils are obtained, a light oil of specific gravity of -0.870 to 0.990, and a heavy oil with specific gravity 1.023 to 1.037. -When first distilled the oil is colorless, but by exposure to the air -quickly acquires a yellowish tint and, if the exposure be continued, -becomes quite dark in color. The odor of the freshly-distilled oil is -rank, but in the course of from three to six months it becomes mellow, -and ripens into the agreeable fragrance so much liked in the best -specimens of bay-rum. The oil is soluble in all proportions in 95 per -cent. alcohol, also in ether and petroleum benzine. Its chief use is -for the preparation of bay-rum. - -_Bergamot oil_ is obtained from the rinds of the fruit of _citrus -bergamia_, a tree belonging to the natural order _Aurantiaceæ_. The -rind is grated and the oil running off separated from the aqueous -fluid and cellular substance by means of a separating funnel, or -the grated mass is distilled in a current of carbonic acid. The oil -is very fluid and pale yellow, but poorer qualities are frequently -greenish or brownish. When distilled with water it becomes perfectly -colorless, but is less durable. Its odor is very pleasant, somewhat -like a mixture of orange and lemon oils. Its specific gravity is 0.87 -to 0.89. By standing for some time, the oil separates white crystalline -scales (stearoptene), which melt at 223° F. The oil becomes solid a -few degrees below the freezing point. The Messina oil of bergamot is -considered the best. From other volatile oils of the orange family, -bergamot oil differs in dissolving readily in caustic potash, forming -a clear solution. It has, however, the same property as other oils of -a similar origin, of igniting with iodine and not dissolving santalin, -the red resinous coloring matter of santal-wood. - -Bergamot oil may be tested as to its purity by mixing it with alcohol. -It becomes pale gray-yellow, forms a sediment which adheres firmly to -the vessel and, on shaking, floats about in the form of flakes. After -two days the sediment is inconsiderable and difficult to divide into -flakes in the clear yellow fluid by shaking. The oil is frequently -adulterated with alcohol. To detect such adulteration, Righini -recommends the following method: Mix 15 parts of the oil with a like -quantity of pure olive oil or oil of sweet almonds. If alcohol is -present, it immediately separates, like water, from the fat oil; if no -separation takes place the oil is not adulterated with alcohol. The -tannin test also gives reliable results. In storing oil of bergamot -great care must be exercised to exclude air and light, as it is one of -the most changeable oils and soon acquires an odor resembling that of -turpentine. - -Large quantities of oil of bergamot are used in perfumery. It forms, so -to say, the basis for most of the finer products. In Cologne water it -forms the principal constituent in the mixture of volatile oils. - -_Cajeput oil_ (_oleum cajeputi_).--This oil is obtained by distillation -from the leaves of several species of _Melaleucæ_, natural order -_Caryophyllaceæ_, indigenous to the East Indies, Banda, and Malabar. -The ordinary oil has a greenish color and possesses a strong odor -of camphor and a pungent taste. It is chiefly imported by way of -Amsterdam, where it is partially discolored by rectification, so -that two kinds, the white and green cajeput oil, are brought into -commerce. The color of the latter is generally supposed to be due to a -resinous substance containing chlorophyl, though others assert that it -originates from the copper of the distilling apparatus and the copper -flasks in which it is dispatched. The specific gravity of the oil -varies between 0.910 and 0.940, though specifically lighter and heavier -oils are said to occur. - -It is claimed that an artificial cajeput oil is often prepared -from camphor and rosemary oil, the green color being obtained by -distillation with milfoil. The presence of camphor may be readily -determined by thoroughly triturating a few drops of the oil with sugar -and then dissolving in water, whereby the particles of camphor separate -in the form of white flakes upon the surface. - -Cajeput oil is frequently adulterated with oil of turpentine and -rosemary oil. Such adulteration is recognized by pure cajeput oil -dissolving clear in equal parts of 90 per cent. alcohol, which is not -the case with the other two oils. - -_Camomile or chamomile oil_ (_oleum anthemidis_).--Two varieties of -oil of camomile are found in commerce, one green and the other blue. -The first is derived from the flowers of the genuine or Roman camomile -(_Anthemis nobilis_) and the blue from the common variety (_Matricaria -chamomila_). The last oil is the one chiefly used in the manufacture of -perfumery and in medicine. - -_Blue camomile oil_ is generally obtained by distillation. In -distilling, metal Florentine flasks should be used, as the oil adheres -tenaciously to glass vessels and the distillate has to be treated with -ether. The pure oil has a beautiful blue color, and on heating forms -blue vapors. It has a penetrating odor which only by strong dilution -becomes similar to that of camomile. By storing in the light and the -simultaneous presence of air, the oil turns green; later on, brown, and -is finally converted into a thickly-fluid, brownish mass. - -_Green camomile oil_ from the genuine or Roman camomile possesses an -agreeable odor of fresh lemons; it is more seldom used than the other. - -On account of the slight yield obtained from the flowers, camomile oil -is rather expensive. - -_Caraway oil_ (_oleum carui_) is obtained by distillation from the -seeds of the well-known aromatic plant _Carum carui_, or the caraway, -natural order _Umbelliferae_. In a fresh, purified state the oil is -colorless, very thinly-fluid and possesses a pungent taste. The oil -prepared from cleansed Dutch seed is best liked, while that distilled -from Norwegian or Tyrolese seed is not much in demand, its taste and -odor not being so pure on account of the many impurities mixed with -these kinds of seed. - -Caraway oil consists mainly of a terpene, C_{10}H_{16}, called -_carvene_, specific gravity 0.870, and of _carvol_, specific gravity -0.960. The richer the oil in carvol, the higher its specific gravity. -Good caraway oil should have a specific gravity of 0.900 to 0.910. -The carvol being the actual bearer of the aroma, the value of the oil -exclusively depends on the content of it. In the better varieties -of oil, the content of carvol amounts to from 45 to 50 per cent., -while poorer qualities generally contain only from 40 to 42 per cent. -The carvol and carvene are now frequently separated by fractional -distillation. The carvol, which has three times as strong an odor and -taste as the carvene, dissolves with much greater facility in alcohol. -The carvene being offered at very low prices might be suitable for -perfuming cheap soaps. - -Caraway oil obtained by distillation from the plant has a less -agreeable odor than that from the seed, and possesses an acrid resinous -taste. - -The purity of caraway oil is recognized by its dissolving clear in -equal parts of 90 per cent. alcohol. If such is not the case, the oil -contains either an admixture of oil of turpentine or does not possess -the full normal content of carvol. Pure caraway oil does not detonate -with iodine, which is the case with oil containing oil of turpentine. - -Caraway oil is chiefly used for perfuming soap; for handkerchief -perfumes it is not suitable. - -_Cedar oil_ (_oleum cedri_) is obtained by distillation from the -shavings of the wood of the American or Virginia cedar (_Juniperus -virginiana_). For the distillation of oil the waste falling off in the -manufacture of lead-pencils is almost exclusively used. It yields about -2 to 3 per cent. of oil. The oil is thinly-fluid, of specific gravity -0.9622, of a greenish color, and an agreeable but not very penetrating -odor. It is a mixture of a terpene, boiling at about 540° F., and of -a hydrocarbon. The latter, which is called _cidrin_, forms the fluid -portion of the oil. It has a specific gravity of 0.984, and boils at -about 459° F. - -Cedar oil is extensively used in the manufacture of toilet soap, -it serving as the basis for other perfumes. Care must, however, be -taken that its odor does not preponderate, as in such case it readily -produces an unpleasant effect. The oil being cheap, adulteration is -scarcely to be feared. - -A volatile oil is also obtained by distillation from the leaves of the -_Juniperus virginiana_. In odor it resembles savin oil, and is unfit -for perfuming purposes. - -_Cherry-laurel oil_ (_oleum laurocerasi_) is the volatile oil, which -contains prussic acid, obtained from the leaves of the cherry-laurel -(_Prunus laurocerasus, L._). Like bitter almonds, the leaves contain -some amygdalin. Hence they are macerated with water and allowed to -stand in a warm place for 24 hours. By subsequent distillation a -volatile oil is obtained which closely resembles oil of bitter almonds, -but differs in some respects. It is colorless or yellowish, rarely -reddish, and of specific gravity 1.05 to 1.06. In its behavior towards -air, solvents, and reagents, it does not essentially differ from oil of -bitter almonds.[5] - - [5] Compare Kremel's observations, p. 91. - -To detect oil of mirbane in cherry-laurel oil, Enrico Pega adds some -alcohol to the oil to be tested and then mixes it with some alcoholic -potash lye and a few drops of ferric chloride solution. After standing -for a few hours the mixture is shaken and distilled. A small portion -of the oil distilling over is freed from water, poured upon a few -small pieces of pure caustic potash in a test-tube, and heated over -a lamp. If the sample is pure it remains colorless; in the presence -of oil of mirbane it acquires a dark coloration in consequence of the -formation of nitrobenzide and aniline, a few drops of calcium chloride -solution brought into the mixture producing, for this reason, a violet -coloration. - -Cherry laurel oil is but seldom used for perfuming purposes. - -_Cinnamon oils._--There are four different kinds of this oil, viz., -_Ceylon cinnamon oil_, _cassia oil_, _cinnamon root oil_, and _oil of -cinnamon leaves_. Though the first two are very much alike, the Ceylon -oil is considered the best. - -_Ceylon cinnamon oil_ (_oleum cinnamoni ceylonici_).--Formerly this oil -was exclusively distilled from chips and waste of the genuine cinnamon -bark of the _Cinnamonum ceylonicum, Nees_, and came into commerce from -Ceylon. However, the fabrication of the oil from cinnamon waste or -chips is now extensively carried on in Germany, and this oil, being -prepared with the assistance of more perfect apparatus, has almost -entirely supplanted that exported from Ceylon. - -When fresh, the Ceylon oil is colorless, but when stored for some -time it becomes first golden yellow and later on brownish. It is -thickly-fluid and heavier than water, its specific gravity being 1.060 -to 1.090. It has an agreeable, aromatic odor and a biting but pure, -sweet taste. Its principal constituent is cinnamaldehyde (C_{9}H_{8}O), -and it contains, besides, 4 to 8 per cent. of eugenol. The presence of -the latter in cinnamon oil may be established by shaking with 15 per -cent. soda-solution, whereby the eugenol is dissolved, and decomposing -the aqueous solution with hydrochloric acid. The eugenol separated -thereby gives in alcoholic solution, when compounded with a trace of -ferric chloride, a beautiful blue color. - -_Cassia oil_ (_oleum cassiæ_).--In China and Cochin China this oil is -obtained by distillation from the bark, unripe fruits, buds, and other -waste of the _Cinnamonum cassia_ or _Cinnamonum aromaticum, Nees_, a -tree indigenous to those countries. It has a pale yellow color, which -in time becomes brown. It is thickly-fluid, of specific gravity 1.05 -to 1.07, and possesses a sweet taste with an acrid after-taste. Like -cinnamon oil, it consists chiefly of cinnamaldehyde, but contains no -eugenol, and hence can be readily distinguished from Ceylon oil by the -above-mentioned reaction. One part of pure cassia oil dissolves in two -parts of 80 per cent. alcohol. - -_Cinnamon root oil and oil of cinnamon leaves._--Neither of these -oils contains cinnamaldehyde, but abundant quantities of eugenol, the -root oil as much as 50 to 70 per cent. The root oil is quite limpid -and has an agreeable odor of cinnamon and cloves. The leaf oil is -thickly-fluid, of the consistency of castor oil. - -The Ceylon oil is frequently adulterated with cassia oil. Such -adulteration is very difficult to detect, and can only be recognized by -experts by the odor and taste. - -The quality of cassia oil is recognized by the taste and odor, -especially on heating, and the high specific gravity, in consequence -of which the oil sinks in water. According to Hager, cassia oil is -frequently adulterated with oil of cloves. This is, however, scarcely -probable, the price of oil of cloves being, on an average, higher than -that of cassia oil. The latter, however, is frequently adulterated with -cheaper thickly-fluid volatile oils, especially with cedar oil. In this -case the oil does not dissolve in the above-mentioned proportion in -alcohol. - -The value of cassia oil is dependent on its contents of cinnamaldehyde. -Hence, the establishment of its actual value requires a quantitative -determination of its contents of cinnamaldehyde, which unfortunately -presents great difficulties. For this purpose Schimmel & Co. proceed -indirectly as follows: 75 grammes of cassia oil in a capacious boiling -flask are mixed with 300 grammes of a boiling-hot 30 per cent. solution -of acid sodium sulphite, whereby cinnamaldehyde-sodium sulphite -is immediately separated. The whole is then vigorously agitated -and allowed to rest for a short time. (With oils rich in aldehyde -considerable heating generally takes place, which must eventually be -moderated by the addition of cold water.) Next add about 200 grammes of -hot water and heat the whole, with frequent shaking, in the water-bath -until the combination of the aldehyde with the acid-sodium sulphite -is _completely_ dissolved, and the non-aldehydes in the form of an -oily layer float upon the solution of the aldehyde salt. Now allow -the whole to cool, then shake twice with ether; first, with about 200 -cubic centimeters, and then with 100; combine the ethereal extracts -of the non-aldehydes separated by means of a separatory funnel, and -filter them into a capacious, previously-weighed beaker provided with a -platinum wire, the lower end of which is bent in the form of a spiral. -Now evaporate the ether as much as possible, by placing the beaker in -hot water. When by swinging the beaker the remaining fluid no longer -foams up, allow to cool off and weigh. Now return the beaker-glass to -the water-bath for ten minutes, weigh again after cooling, and repeat -the operation until the difference between two weighings does not -amount to more than 0.3 gramme at the utmost. The weighing _previous to -the last_ is taken as the correct one.[6] - - [6] The manner of expelling the ether is of great influence upon - the accuracy of the result. Though the non-aldehydes volatilize - with difficulty, they are volatile, and hence the ether must be - quickly expelled, and the beaker not allowed to stand longer upon the - water-bath than necessary for the evaporation of the ether. - -The weight of the non-aldehydes thus obtained is deducted from the -cassia oil used, the difference giving the content of cinnamaldehyde in -the latter. - -For example:-- - - Used 79.71 grammes of oil. - - First weighing of the beaker after evaporating the ether 147.55 grammes - Second " " " " " " 146.84 " - Third " " " " " " 146.58 " - Tare of the beaker 128.34 " - - Hence non-aldehydes in the oil 146.84 grammes. - Less tare 128.34 " - ------ - = 18.50 grammes. - - Calculated to per cent., 23.1 per cent. - 100 - 23.1 = 76.9 per cent. cinnamaldehyde. - -By accurately following the directions given, the difference between -two controlling determinations will be only a few tenths per cent., -seldom as much as 1 per cent. For practical purposes, for which alone -this method is intended, this is more than sufficient. - -According to the reports of Schimmel & Co., all the cassia oil brought -into commerce from China was for a considerable time adulterated with -resin and petroleum, they having found as much as 30 per cent. of resin -in the oil. Such adulteration can be established by the determination -of the specific gravity and distilling the oil. Good cassia oil should -show a specific gravity of 1.05 to 1.07 at 59° F., and by distillation -90 per cent. of pure cassia oil must pass over. The residue should not -solidify after cooling and acquire the character of a brittle resin; it -must remain at least thickly-fluid, and under no conditions amount to -more than 10 per cent. - -_Citron oil_ (_oleum citri_), from the peel of the fruit of _Citrus -medica_ or the citron tree. The oil is prepared in a similar manner -to that of oil of bergamot, either by expression or distillation, the -latter process yielding more and purer oil. - -Rectified citron oil is colorless, of an agreeable penetrating odor -and acrid taste, and very sensitive to light and air. By exposure to -light it turns yellow, and if air be admitted at the same time, it is -first converted into a fluid which, on account of its content of ozone, -possesses strong bleaching powers. The oil at the same time acquires a -disagreeable odor, resembling that of oil of turpentine, and is finally -converted into a resinous mass. - -Citron oil is frequently adulterated with oil of orange and sometimes -with oil of bergamot. These adulterations are readily detected by an -experienced person by the odor, this being in fact the best guide. The -specific gravity of citron oil is 0.850 at 59° F.; it boils at from -332.6° to 343.4° F. and congeals at 4° F. - -_Citronella oil_ (_oleum citronellæ_) is chiefly distilled in Ceylon -from the lemon grass, _Andropogon Nardus, L._ It is quite limpid, of -a greenish-yellow to brown color, and has an odor resembling that -of genuine citron oil. Its specific gravity is 0.896 at 59° F., and -it boils at from 392° to 410° F. Of the various oils reaching the -market that with the trade-mark "Fisher" is most in demand, it being -distinguished by special purity. Edward Kremers has found in citronella -oil an aldehyde, C_{7}H_{14}O, a terpene, C_{10}H_{16}, citronellol, -which is isomeric with borneol; further, acetic acid and valerianic -acid. - -The Indian distillers, it is claimed, adulterate the citronella oil -with petroleum, an addition up to 25 per cent. being not uncommon. - -According to experiments by Schimmel & Co., pure citronella oil must -give a clear solution, when 1 part of the oil is vigorously shaken with -10 parts of 80 per cent. alcohol. If, in executing the test, the kind -of turbidity is observed, and whether the portion insoluble in alcohol -separates, after standing, upon the surface or on the bottom of the -fluid, and further, if the above-mentioned quantity of alcohol is not -added at one time, but at first only 1 or 2 parts of it, a conclusion -may be drawn as to the kind and quantity of the adulterant. - -Petroleum causes a milky-white turbidity, while in the presence of fat -oil the mixture becomes turbid, but not actually milky. As a rule, -fat oil deposits, after standing, on the bottom, while petroleum -floats upon the surface of the fluid. Citronella oil adulterated -with fat oil does not dissolve in 1 to 2 parts nor in 10 parts of -80 per cent. alcohol, while oil adulterated with not too large a -quantity of petroleum, gives a clear solution with 1 to 2 parts. The -determination of the specific gravity may also serve for the detection -of adulterations. This holds good, however, only for petroleum, which -reduces the specific gravity, an addition of fat oil producing no -deviation in this respect. The specific gravity of the oil should not -be below 0.895 at 59° F. - -Citronella oil is much used for perfuming cheap hair oils and toilet -soaps; it is the chief constituent of all perfumes for honey-soaps. -In the American soap industry it is extensively used, the yearly -consumption being estimated at 1½ million ounces. - -_Cloves, oil of_ (_oleum caryophylli_), is obtained by distillation -with steam, or by extraction from the cloves of commerce, which are -the dried unexpanded flower buds of _Caryophyllus aromaticus, L._, -or the clove tree. Oil of cloves, when fresh, is almost colorless, -but on exposure to air acquires a brownish coloration and a thickly -fluid consistency. It has the aromatic taste and odor of cloves, and -a specific gravity of 1.300 to 1.065. It frequently shows a slightly -acid reaction, boils at 482° F., and congeals at 4° F. It is readily -soluble in alcohol, ether, and strong acetic acid. It consists of a -terpene (C_{10}H_{16}) and eugenol (C_{10}H_{12}O_{2}), the odor of -the oil being due to the latter. The terpene has a specific gravity of -0.918, and in distilling passes over first (light oil of cloves). The -eugenol, when fresh, is colorless, has the odor and taste of cloves, a -specific gravity of 1.063 at 65° F., boils at 487.4° F., is insoluble -in water and glycerin, but soluble in alcohol, ether and glacial acetic -acid. Its alcoholic solution is colored magnificently blue by ferric -chloride. If in an alkaline solution it is oxidized with potassium -permanganate, vanillin being formed. - -An inferior quality of oil is obtained from the stems of the clove -buds. It dissolves with greater difficulty than the oil prepared from -the buds, and has a darker red-brown color. - -To test the value of oil of cloves, introduce, according to Stohman, -into a graduated glass cylinder 10 volumes ether, 10 oil of cloves, -and 30 of a 10-per cent. soda solution. After vigorous shaking, the -eugenol dissolves; the increase in volume of the aqueous fluid is -then proportional to the quantity of eugenol present. For more exact -determinations, dissolve a weighed quantity of oil, repeatedly shake -the aqueous fluid with ether to remove the terpene, then decompose -the eugenol-sodium with dilute sulphuric acid, dissolve the separated -eugenol in ether and weigh after evaporating the ethereal fluid. Good -oil of cloves does not contain less than 80 per cent. of eugenol, and -frequently 90 per cent. or more. - -Oil of cloves is chiefly adulterated with copaiba oil and cedar oil. -Such adulteration is recognized by the oil not forming a clear solution -in every proportion with alcohol, as is the case with pure oil of -cloves. - -Oil of cloves is much used for perfuming purposes. - -_Eucalyptus oil_ (_oleum eucalypti_) is obtained from the leaves -of various trees of the eucalyptus family. According to Merk two -kinds of oil must be strictly kept apart: _oleum eucalypti_ from the -leaves of _eucalyptus globulus_ and _oleum eucalypti australe_, the -former being used in medicine, and the latter, which is considerably -cheaper, chiefly for perfuming purposes. However, Piesse's opinion that -eucalyptus oil, as far as its odor is concerned, does not deserve to be -classed among perfumes is undoubtedly correct. It has an odor between -that of oil of turpentine and cajeput oil, and as long as perfumery is -the art of sweet odors, such oil cannot be designated a perfume. - -When not rectified, eucalyptus oil is mostly yellowish or bluish. In a -rectified state it is colorless, clear, limpid, lighter than water, of -a strong odor, and acrid taste. The oil from _eucalyptus globulus_ has -a specific gravity of 0.900 to 0.925, and dissolves in every proportion -in 90 per cent. alcohol. It is optically inactive or turns the plane of -polarization slightly to the right. On standing with sodium it acquires -a yellowish coloration, and does not detonate with iodine. The oil from -_eucalyptus australe_ has a specific gravity of 0.86 to 0.87, and is -but sparingly soluble in 90 per cent. alcohol, so that even a solution -prepared in the proportion of 1:15 is turbid. It turns the plane of -polarization strongly to the left; acquires, on standing with sodium, a -red coloration, and detonates with iodine. - -Eucalyptus oil consists of eucalyptol and eucalyptene, and perhaps -other hydrocarbons. The content of the first, on which depends the -medicinal value of the oil, varies very much in the oils from the -different species of eucalyptus, the oil from some species, it is said, -containing no eucalyptol whatever. - -Eucalyptol (C_{24}H_{20}O_{2}) is limpid, colorless, turns the plane -of polarization, has a specific gravity of 0.905, and boils at 347° F. -Its vapor mixed with air has an agreeable, refreshing taste, and its -dilute solutions remind one of roses. Eucalyptene (C_{24}H_{18}) has a -specific gravity of 0.836, and boils at 329° F. - -_Fennel oil_ (_oleum fœniculi_) is derived by distillation from the -fruits of _Fœniculum vulgare, Gaertner_. Large quantities of it are -produced in Saxony, and also in Galicea. It is quite colorless, -limpid, of specific gravity 0.940 to 0.970 and, with a full content of -stearoptene, possesses a nauseous sweet taste and odor. It contains -60 to 70 per cent. of anethol and congeals at from 41° to 50° F. to a -crystalline mass. The leaves of the plant also contain a volatile oil, -which is, however, less valued than the seed-oil. - -Good fennel oil should dissolve clear in 1 to 2 parts of 90 per cent. -alcohol. Direct adulterations of this oil do not occur, but the -stearoptene is frequently withdrawn by fractional distillation whereby -the oil loses much in value. Such oil freed from stearoptene does not -congeal, has a more bitter than sweet taste and does not dissolve in -the above-mentioned proportion in alcohol. - -In perfumery fennel oil is but little used; sometimes in connection -with other volatile oils for perfuming soaps. - -_Geranium oil_, _palmarosa oil_, _Turkish geranium oil_ is obtained -from _Andropogon Pachnodes_. It is yellowish, limpid, of specific -gravity 0.890 at 59° F., possesses a very agreeable rose-like odor -resembling that of geranium oils from _Pelargonium radula, Aiton_, and -for this reason is generally designated as Turkish geranium oil. The -odor of the oil is improved by shaking it with water containing lemon -juice, any content of copper being thereby removed. The washed oil is -then brought into shallow dishes and exposed for two or three weeks to -the sun, whereby its odor becomes still more like that of rose oil. -The oil thus prepared is much used for adulterating rose oil. Turkish -geranium oil is also much used for the adulteration of genuine geranium -oil and is itself adulterated with oil of turpentine. It is extensively -employed in perfumery, especially for perfuming hair oils and pomades, -and in conjunction with geranium oils for rose soap. - -_East Indian geranium oil_ is obtained, chiefly in the Presidency of -Bombay, from _Andropogon Schoenantus, L._ It is greenish-yellow to -yellow-brown, has a specific gravity of 0.906 at 59° F., and consists -mainly of geraniol (C_{10}H_{18}O). Its odor is rose-like, though -modified by a lemon-like odor. It is principally used for perfuming -cheaper articles. - -_French and African geranium oils_ (_oleum geranii_) are obtained -by distillation with water from the leaves of various species of -pelargonium. Many different kinds of this oil are found in commerce. -The finest and most expensive are the Spanish and French geranium -oils, so-called _rosé_, which are distinguished by their fine odor, -closely resembling that of rose oil. They are derived from _Pelargonium -radula_, and are either yellowish, brownish, or pale green, the -brownish oils being preferred. It congeals at 60.8° F. and turns the -plane of polarization to the right. Another good geranium oil is -the African, which is chiefly prepared in Algiers from _Pelargonium -roseum_, _Wildenow_, and _P. odoratissimum, Aiton_. It closely -resembles the French oil, but turns the plane of polarization to the -left. - -French geranium oil is said to be frequently adulterated with fat or -copaiba oil; but geranium oil being soluble in 70 per cent. alcohol, -such adulterations are readily detected. Add to 5 cubic centimeters of -70 per cent. alcohol (specific gravity 0.890) at 59° to 62.5° F., 10 -drops of the oil, and shake. If a clear solution results the oil is -very likely unadulterated. - -The so-called Turkish geranium oil is frequently found mixed with -cocoanut oil. To detect this, place the oil in a test-tube in ice or a -cold mixture for several hours, whereby the cocoanut oil separates as -a white substance. Adulterations of upward to 20 per cent. are said to -frequently occur. - -Reliable tests to detect an adulteration of the better qualities of -geranium oil with those of a lower grade do not exist, the odor being -the only guide. - -_Jasmine oil_ or _oil of jessamine_, from the flowers of _Jasminium -officinale, L._, and _J. grandiflorum_.--The oil is exclusively -obtained by the absorption process, and is the most prized by the -perfumer. It is, however, exceedingly rare on account of the enormous -cost of its production. The extract of jasmine, the "essence de -jasmine" of the French manufactories, is a solution of the oil, as -obtained by extraction with lard or beef suet, in strong spirit of -wine. The odor of jasmine oil is so peculiar that it is without -comparison, and as such cannot be imitated. - -_Juniper oil_ (_oleum juniperi_) is obtained by distillation from the -fruits of _Juniperus communis, L._, or juniper. The berries used for -the purpose should be fully grown and fresh and bruised before being -placed in the still. Unripe berries yield a smaller quantity and an oil -of somewhat different properties than ripe berries. The oil obtained by -distillation with steam is colorless and that by ordinary distillation -yellowish, the former having a specific gravity of 0.840 to 0.860 -and the latter of 0.850 to 0.900. It consists mainly of terpenes. By -standing, a stearoptene is separated, which crystallizes in feathery -needles from hot spirit of wine. The odor and taste of juniper oil -remind one at the same time of juniper berries and oil of turpentine. - -Juniper oil has a great tendency to thicken; it becomes resinous, -acid and thickly fluid, formic acid being formed. It should be kept -in well-closed bottles, and protected from light. It is frequently -adulterated with oil of turpentine and juniper-wood oil. It may be -tested by its behavior towards alcohol, as well as by the taste. A drop -of the oil rubbed up with sugar, and shaken with 500 grammes of water, -should not impart an acrid taste to the water. Juniper oil gives a -clear solution with ½ part absolute alcohol; by a larger quantity it -is rendered turbid. - -_Lavender oil_ (_oleum lavandulæ_.)--Large quantities of this oil are -distilled in Southern France, in the neighborhood of Grasse and Nimes, -from the flowers of _lavandula officinalis, Chaix_, which grows wild -in that region. It is limpid, colorless, or yellowish, has a strong -odor and a pungent, aromatic, somewhat bitter taste. With 90 per cent. -alcohol it mixes clear in every proportion, boils at 320° F., and has a -specific gravity of 0.876 to 0.905. It turns the plane of polarization -to the left. - -The best French lavender oil, distilled from pure flowers only, is -brought into commerce under the name, "Essence de Lavande Montblanc." -It is distinguished from all other kinds, in the preparation of which -more or less stems and leaves are used, by its extremely agreeable odor. - -Lavender is also extensively cultivated in Mitchan and Hitchin, -England, and used for the preparation of an especially fine oil, the -odor of which surpasses even that of the best French product. It is, -however, comparatively expensive. - -From the leaves and flowers of _lavandula spica_ the _spike oil_ is -obtained by distillation. It is colorless, or yellow, and in odor -approaches rosemary oil more than lavender oil. Its boiling point, like -that of lavender oil, is at 366.8° F., and its specific gravity 0.96. -Spike oil turns the plane of polarization only slightly to the left, -the deviation scarcely ever exceeding 0.8°. - -Lavender oils are very sensitive to light and air, they becoming -ozonized under their influence, and acquire an odor like turpentine. -Hence they must be kept in well-closed vessels in a dark place. - -Oil of lavender is frequently adulterated, chiefly with alcohol, fat -oils, oil of turpentine, and spike oil. To test the oil, mix a drop -of it with 10 cubic centimeters of warm water, and test the odor, -which should be pure and agreeably lavender-like. The taste of the -vigorously agitated water should be transiently bitter aromatic. One -volume of the oil should give a turbid mixture with one volume of -dilute alcohol (specific gravity 0.895), but a perfectly clear one -with three volumes. On shaking 0.5 cubic centimeter of the oil with a -few grains of rosaniline it remains uncolored, but, in the presence -of even a trace of alcohol, it acquires a red coloration. By mixing -in a graduated cylinder equal volumes of the oil and distilled water, -and shaking vigorously, the oil, after the water has settled, shows -a decrease in volume if alcohol be present. The presence of fat oil -can be readily recognized by bringing a drop of the oil to be tested -upon filtering paper; a grease stain is formed, which disappears -neither at the ordinary temperature nor by heating. Adulteration with -oil of turpentine is recognized by the boiling point, that of oil of -turpentine being 312.8° F., and that of oil of lavender, as previously -stated, 366.8° F. - -Spike oil should mix clear with equal parts of 90 per cent. alcohol; -the contrary would indicate adulteration with oil of turpentine. - -For perfumery, lavender oil is of great importance, it being much -employed by itself, as well as mixed with other oils. - -_Lemon oil_ (_oleum limonis_) is obtained by various processes from the -rinds of lemons. The best and most delicately-scented oil is obtained -by the so-called sponge process in use in Southern Italy and Sicily. -The rinds are soaked from fifteen to twenty-five minutes in water, to -which sometimes a little soda is added. They are taken up singly in the -right hand and the outer surface of each is firmly pressed against a -large and rather hard-grained sponge held in the left hand and secured -by a strap. Two or three sharp turns of the wrist impart what may be -called a screw-pressure to the rind, thus effectually fracturing the -oil cells, the sponge absorbing the contents. The sponge is constantly -held over an earthen jar and occasionally squeezed into it. The fluid -in the jar quickly separates into three different products--the dregs -or deposit of mucilaginous and cellular matter, some fruit juice, and -the pure oil, which floats on the top. The latter, when bright and -clear, is passed, by means of a small glass siphon, into the cans of -thin copper, in which, after sealing, it is stored away for export. - -The above described primitive mode of fabrication furnishes the most -highly prized oils of commerce; they are called hand-pressed oils -or _essences preparées a l'éponge_. In the same manner are obtained -the oils from the sweet and bitter pomegranate, the bergamotte, and -mandarin orange. - -Another method of expressing the oil is that of the _écuelle à piquer_, -much used in the region about Nice. The oils obtained by this method, -which are also of a very fine quality, are marked _essence à l'écuelle_ -or _au zeste_. The apparatus consists of a round shallow pan of copper -or brass, having a receptacle for the oil at its lowest part and a lip -on one side for pouring, and studded on its concavity by strong blunt -spikes. The workman takes the fruit and rolls it gently but quickly -around the inside of the _écuelle_; the spikes prick the oil sacs, -whereupon the oil, running down the spikes and the concavity of the -pan, collects in the reservoir at the lowest part. The oil is filtered -and then poured into clean glass bottles, in which the impurities are -allowed to settle. - -In Reggio, where especially much bergamot oil is manufactured, -sheet-metal bowl-like vessels, studded inside with sharp ribs, are -used. Six to eight fruits are placed in the vessel. A movable lid -closes the vessel, so that there is just enough space for the fruits -between the lid and the bottom of the vessel. If now the lid be -revolved by hand-or steam-power, the rinds of the fruit are torn apart, -and the oil together with the juice runs through the sieve-bottom of -the apparatus into a cylindrical vessel where it clarifies. - -The third method of obtaining the oil is by _expression_. The grated -rind is placed in hair mats, and subjected to powerful pressure by -means of a screw or lever press. - -The process of _distillation_ is carried on as follows: The peels, -which should be from select fruit, are sprinkled with powdered salt, -and a few hours afterwards sufficient water to moisten them is poured -over them. A day or two afterwards more water is added, and the whole -is distilled until either no more oil separates or the steam, at first -purely fragrant, begins to acquire a rank and rather unpleasant smell. -The oil obtained by distillation is inferior to the others. - - [Illustration: FIG. 20.] - -Lately a combination of the écuelle and distilling processes has been -introduced by Domenico Monfalcone, which has given excellent results. -It is shown in Fig. 20. _F F_ is a hollow cylinder, of sheet-iron, -the interior surface of which is studded with a large number of -small metallic knife-points. This cylinder revolves on two axles -attached to it at diagonally opposite points. The cylinder having been -half-charged with lemons, together with a small quantity of water, is -set in motion by aid of the shafting and pulleys driven by the small -steam engine. The fruits are thereby made to come in contact with the -metallic lancets, and their whole surface gradually becomes punctured -sufficiently to rupture the cells containing the volatile oil, which -escapes. The cylinder _F F_ has double walls, the space between them -being intended for the circulation of a current of steam, which is -admitted to heat the water and to facilitate the extraction of the -oil, while at the same time the vapors are rarefied or aspirated by -the vacuum pump _L_. The axles of the cylinder on both sides are -hollow; that on the side looking towards the engine is imbedded in -such a manner that steam from the boiler _D_ may be admitted at will, -either into the double walls of the cylinder, or into the interior -of the cylinder itself, while the hollow passage in the other axle -communicates with a condensing worm, _G_, the outlet of which, _H_, -descends into a cylindrical vessel, _I_, intended to receive the -condensed products, consisting of water and volatile oil. When the -apparatus is first set in motion the pump _L_ begins to produce a -vacuum during the first revolutions of the cylinder. Steam being now -cautiously admitted into the double walls of the cylinder, the water is -raised to boiling at a comparatively low temperature, and the vapors -charged with the volatile oil pass over into the receptacle, where -they separate into two layers. The product obtained by this process is -claimed to be equal in quality to that obtained by mechanical means, -and the yield nearly double. - -During the months of November to March the average yield from 1000 -lemons in the factories of Palermo is 320 grammes of oil; in those of -Messina, where a better quality of fruit is employed, the yield is -about 400 grammes. The same number of lemons yield about 10 gallons of -juice, the collection of which is, of course, a necessary accompaniment -of the manufacture of volatile oil. - -Pure oil of lemons is almost colorless and has the odor of the fruit. -Its specific gravity varies between 0.8752 and 0.8785; it boils at -298.4° F., and is soluble in all proportions in absolute alcohol and -glacial acetic acid. It contains, according to G. Bouchardat and -J. Lafont, besides a little cymene, several hydrocarbons, the most -abundant of which is citrene, C_{10}H_{16}, boiling near 352.5° F., -having a rotatory power exceeding +105°, and yielding a solid optically -inactive dihydrochloride. - -Oil of lemons is frequently adulterated with oil of turpentine. This -may be detected, according to G. Heppe, by slowly heating the oil in -a dry test-tube with a small piece of copper butyrate to about 338° -F., taking care that the temperature does not exceed 356°F. The copper -salt will dissolve in pure oil of lemons with a green color, while in -the presence of oil of turpentine a yellow turbid mixture is obtained, -reddish-yellow cuprous oxide being separated. This test is also -applicable to oils of bergamot and of orange-peel. - -_Lilac oil_ is obtained from the flowers of _Syringa vulgaris_, the -lilac, by aqueous distillation and subsequent extraction with benzine. -It is also frequently prepared by the absorption process. It is used -for the most expensive perfumes, and is seldom found in commerce. - -_Limes, oil of_ (_oleum limettæ_), is derived from the rind of the -fruit of _Citrus limetta_, or lime. The oil is obtained in the same -manner as oil of lemons, which it somewhat resembles. Its mean specific -gravity is 0.8734 at 84° F. The oil made by the écuelle process is of a -decidedly yellow color, varying in intensity, being darker in the fresh -product. The difference in flavor and aroma is so marked as scarcely to -require any other means of distinguishing the oil made by the écuelle -process from that obtained by distillation, the first having a decided -fragrant lemon smell, whilst the distilled oil is very inferior, -frequently possessing little more than the smell of turpentine. Large -quantities of oil of limes are manufactured in Dominica, but most of -the oil exported from there is of an inferior quality and was formerly -solely used for adulterating oil of lemons. Lately it has also been -employed for scenting soaps and in the manufacture of the common -essences and perfumes. - -_Licari oil, linaloë oil_, is obtained, partially in Mexico and -partially in Cayenne, from the wood of the white cedar (_bois de rose -femelle_), _Licari canali_. It is limpid, has an agreeable odor, -reminding one of roses, and does not become solid at 4° F. Its specific -gravity is 0.868 at 59° F., and it boils at 388.4° F. - -_Marjoram oils._--By distilling the leaves of _Origanum marjorana, L._, -the _marjoram oil_ (_oleum marjoranæ_) is obtained. It is yellowish -or green-yellowish, but becomes reddish-brown by age. If badly kept -it finally becomes thickly-fluid and sticky, sometimes depositing a -reddish stearoptene. The odor of marjoram oil is less agreeable than -that of the plant, and the taste peculiar, bitter, cooling. The oil -dissolves readily in 90 per cent. alcohol, and when mixed with equal -parts of it yields a clear solution. Its specific gravity is 0.89 to -0.91. It should be kept in entirely filled, well-closed bottles in a -shady place. On coming in contact with air, it absorbs oxygen with -avidity and forms a white, odorless, crystalline mass. - -From _Origanum vulgare, L._, the ordinary marjoram oil (_oleum origani -vulgaris_) is obtained. It is yellowish or reddish, limpid, of specific -gravity 0.90 to 0.95, and has a camphor-like odor. - -_Spanish marjoram_ (_oleum origani cretici_) is obtained by -distillation from the flowering plants of several varieties of marjoram -(_Or. creticum_, _Or. hirtum_, _Or. smyrnæum_). It is brought into -commerce from Trieste, Smyrna, Salonica, and other Mediterranean -seaports. The oil exported from France appears to be derived from -another variety of marjoram; at least it shows a different behavior -and approaches more the ordinary marjoram oil. The genuine oil is -thickly-fluid, generally yellow-brown; of specific gravity O.95 to -O.97; has a strong, aromatic odor, and produces upon the tongue a sharp -continued burning. It dissolves in equal parts of 90 per cent. alcohol. -It is chiefly adulterated with copaiba oil, the presence of which can -be recognized by the oil dissolving with greater difficulty. - -The marjoram oils are but little used for perfuming purposes. - -_Mignonette oil_ (_oleum résédæ_). The well-known mignonette, _Réséda -odoratissima_, yields a thick yellowish oil, either by maceration and -absorption, or by extraction with ether or petroleum-ether. It has a -penetrating, disagreeable odor, which can only be rendered agreeable by -greatly diluting the oil. In gathering the flowers care must be had not -to mix them with leaves, as this spoils the odor of the oil. - -_Myrrh oil_ (_oleum myrthæ_) is obtained from the leaves of _Myrtus -communis, L._ It is yellowish, dextrorotatory, of specific gravity -0.910 at 60.8° F., and commences to boil at 320° F. As its principal -constituents, Jahns has established a terpene (C_{10}H_{16}), boiling -at from 316.4° to 320° F., and turning the plane of polarization -to the right, and cineol (C_{10}H_{16}O), which boils at 348.8° F. -Besides these principal constituents there seems to be present a very -small quantity of a camphor, corresponding very likely to the formula -C_{10}H_{16}O. Myrtol, which was formerly supposed to exist in myrtle -oil, has been found to be a mixture of the dextrorotatory terpene and -of cineol. - -_Nutmeg oils._--From mace, the fresh aril of the nutmeg (_Myristica -fragrans, Houtt_, natural order _Myristicaceæ_), _mace oil_ (_oleum -macidis_), is obtained by distillation. It is straw-yellow or -yellowish, later on yellow-reddish, clear, somewhat thickly-fluid, -of a strong odor resembling that of mace, and a taste at first mild, -but later on pungent and aromatic. It mixes clear in every proportion -with absolute alcohol, but of 90 per cent. alcohol, 5 to 6 volumes are -required for a clear solution. The specific gravity of the oil varies -from 0.87 to 0.92. With iodine it detonates, vapors being emitted. The -oil obtained from dried mace has a less agreeable odor. - -The oil is frequently adulterated with tincture of nutmeg prepared -with absolute alcohol. Such an adulteration, as well as any content of -alcohol, is recognized by shaking 0.5 cubic centimeter of the oil with -a grain of rosaniline. In the presence of alcohol the oil acquires a -red coloration, while pure oil remains uncolored. - -From the nutmegs, the seed of _Myristica fragrans_, freed from the -seed-coat and aril, a volatile oil (_oleum nucistæ æthereum_) is also -obtained by distillation. It is generally yellowish, seldom colorless, -somewhat thickly-fluid and has the odor and taste of nutmegs. It is -readily soluble in alcohol and ether and of specific gravity, 0.93 to -0.95. It consists of two oils, one specifically lighter and fluid, and -the other heavy and crystalline. On standing it deposits a stearoptene, -called myristicin. - -The nutmeg oils are but seldom used in perfumery. - -_Opopanax oil_ is obtained from opopanax.[7] It is of gold-yellow color -and an agreeable balsamic odor reminding one somewhat of myrrh. Its -specific gravity is 0.9016, and it boils between 392° and 572° F. - - [7] See later on under "Balsams and Resins." - -On account of its strength, the oil must be very carefully handled -in perfuming, but if used in the correct proportion it is very -advantageous. - -_Orange-peel oil_, also called _Portugal oil_ or _essence of Portugal_, -is obtained in Italy from the fresh peels of the orange, the fruit of -_Citrus vulgaris, Risso_. It is prepared in a manner similar to that of -oil of lemons (which see). In commerce a distinction is made between -the Messina oil, which is of inferior quality, and the Calabria oil, -which is of a better quality. The Messina oil has a yellow color, -frequently not much darker than that of oil of lemons, while the color -of Calabria oil is dark yellow, nearly brown. The oil prepared from the -peels of the bitter orange (_Citrus bigaradia, Duhamel_), is of the -same color as the sweet Messina oil. It is more used in the preparation -of liqueurs than for perfuming. Orange-peel oils are limpid and have a -specific gravity of 0.819 to 0.9. One part of orange-peel oil should, -according to its age, dissolve clear in 5 to 10 parts of 90 per cent. -alcohol. - -Very similar to orange-peel oil, though differing somewhat in odor, -is the _mandarin oil_ obtained from the fresh peels of the mandarin -orange, the fruit of _Citrus sinensis_. It is brought into commerce -from Reggio and is said to form a constituent of the genuine -_ess-bouquet_. It has a specific gravity of 0.852 at 50° F. and is -dextrorotatory. - -While from the peels the volatile oil is but seldom obtained by -distillation, this process is exclusively used for gaining volatile -oils from the flowers, leaves, and young branches. In this connection -two kinds of volatile oil have chiefly to be considered, viz: -_orange-flower oil_ and _petit-grain oil_. - -_Orange-flower oil_ or _neroli oil_ (_oleum florum aurantii_; _ol. -neroli_; _ol. naphæ_) is obtained by distillation from the flowers of -the bitter orange; while the flowers of the sweet orange yield the -so-called _neroli-Portugal oil_, which is far inferior to the other. - -On the French Riviera, the orange is especially cultivated for -obtaining blossoms and leaves for distilling purposes. At Cannes, -Le Cannet, Golfe-Juan, Vallauris, Biot, Vence, Le Bar, Antibes, Le -Cap, Nice, and Mentone, the bitter orange, whose flowers are very -numerous and especially suitable for perfumery, is chiefly cultivated. -Cannes and Le Cannet alone possess 150,000 to 160,000 such trees, and -Golfe-Juan and Vallauris 200,000. The flowers harvested in Golfe-Juan -amount to about 700,000 lbs., in Le Cannet to about 330,000 lbs., at -Cannes to about 130,000 lbs., and in Antibes, Mentone, and Nice to -about 260,000 lbs. One orange tree yields, according to its age, from -2 to 17 lbs. of flowers. The distillation of neroli oil has also been -lately commenced in Sicily and Calabria, but as far as quality is -concerned, the oil thus far brought into commerce cannot compete with -the French oil. - -Oil of orange flowers is at first nearly colorless or straw-yellow, -but becomes reddish-yellow when kept for some time. In a clear glass -it opalizes bluish. It is limpid and has a slightly bitter taste and -a strong but very delicious odor. Its specific gravity varies between -0.85 and 0.90. It is but sparingly soluble in water, but imparts to -the latter an agreeable odor; the solution is colored red by sulphuric -acid. With 1 to 2 parts of 90 per cent. alcohol, the oil gives a clear -solution which becomes turbid by a further addition of alcohol and, -after standing quietly, a flaky separation of stearoptene is observed. -If not carefully kept the oil becomes darker and even acquires a -disagreeable odor. By rectification with water oil thus spoiled can -be restored. With sodium the oil does not evolve hydrogen gas; it -detonates with iodine. - -Of the various oils of orange blossoms occurring in commerce "_Neroli -petale_" is the best. - -Neroli oil being a very expensive oil is exposed to many adulterations. -Mierzinski even asserts that no genuine unadulterated neroli oil occurs -in commerce, because it is a well-known fact that what is sold as -genuine, pure neroli oil, consists on an average of 4/8 genuine neroli -oil, 1/8 oil of bergamot, and 3/8 petit-grain oil. Furthermore, it -is no secret that besides the flowers of all kinds of _Aurantiaceæ_, -unripe fruits or fresh peels of ripe fruits and even young shoots of -the branches and leaves are subjected to distillation. This assertion -perhaps goes too far, but nevertheless it is advisable to procure the -oil only from a thoroughly reliable firm. - -A very frequent adulteration consists in an addition of petit-grain -oil. Such an addition can only be recognized by the taste and odor. -For this purpose add to 3 drops of oil in a small bottle 10 grammes -of distilled water, and, after shaking vigorously, test as to the -odor and taste. According to Chevalier, pour 1 or 2 drops of the oil -upon sugar and stir the latter in water; if the oil is not genuine the -water acquires a bitter taste. Hager recommends the following test: -Mix 3 drops of the oil in a test-tube with 40 to 50 drops of alcohol; -add, after complete solution, about ⅓ the volume of the solution of -concentrated sulphuric acid, and effect mixture by careful shaking. -Pure oil gives a turbid, reddish, dark-brown mixture (with old oil, -dark brown); almost all other oils, which may be substituted, give -paler-colored (reddish, red, or ocher-color) mixtures; or, in case the -genuine oil is adulterated with non-genuine, the mixture exhibits a -considerably less dark-color. When this test has been several times -executed with genuine oil, no room for doubt is left. If the mixture be -diluted with four times its volume of water, it becomes yellowish and -milky. - -The odor of orange flowers is, according to Soubeiran, due to two -volatile oils, of which the one having the most delicious odor is -soluble in water. The other volatile oil, of which the neroli oil -of commerce chiefly consists, is sparingly soluble in water, and -does not possess such a delicious odor. This is the reason why good -orange-flower water cannot be prepared by saturating water with neroli -oil. The genuine orange-flower water is obtained as a by-product in -distilling the oil. - -Neroli oil is much used for the finer perfumes, it being especially -a necessary constituent of _eau de Cologne_. It has to be carefully -protected from air and light. For perfuming purposes it is only -sufficiently ripe after having been stored for at least one year. If, -however, it becomes too old, it inclines towards rancidity, which may -be prevented by compounding it with an equal volume of fine spirit. -Portugal oil being of inferior quality can only be used for lower grade -products. - -_Petit grain oil_ (_oleum petit grain_) is obtained by distillation -from the leaves, young shoots and unripe fruits of different -_Aurantiaceæ_. The best oil is that distilled from the leaves of the -bitter orange, it possessing an odor similar to that of neroli oil, -but, of course, not so fine. Southern France was formerly the chief -place for the production of this oil, but considerable quantities of -it are now manufactured in Paraguay, and the oil at present brought -from there into commerce being of quite a good quality and considerably -cheaper than the French oil, has almost entirely supplanted the latter. - -_Orris root, oil of_ (_oleum iridis_), is obtained by distillation with -steam from the rhizomes of _Iris florentina_, which is cultivated in -Southern France, Dalmatia, and other regions. It has a yellow color -and, at an ordinary temperature, a quite solid consistency like butter -or wax, so that it can be rendered fluid only by heating. It consists -chiefly of a rigid odorless body to which the liquid odoriferous oil -adheres. The solid portion was formerly designated orris-stearoptene; -according to Flueckiger it is, however, myristic acid. - -Oil of orris root is one of the oils which keep for years without -suffering injury. It is recommended to keep it in stock in alcoholic -solution so that the myristic acid contained in it may to a certain -degree be etherized, and cannot injuriously affect the odoriferous -principle. - -Oil of orris root serves as a substitute and for strengthening the -natural odor of violets. It can, however, be employed only for very -fine expensive perfumery since, on account of the very slight yield -from the root (from 1000 parts ½ to ¾ part of oil), its price is -very high, generally exceeding that of rose oil. - -An admixture of other volatile oils of less value would render the oil -fluid at the ordinary temperature. - -_Patchouli oil._--By the name of patchouli are known, according to -L. Wray, Jr., the leaves of _Pogostemon patchouli, Pellet_, natural -order _Labiatæ_, indigenous to the East Indies, and known and used -for centuries in the various regions of China, Assam, and the -Malayan Islands. Most of the patchouli comes from the East Indies. -Before exportation it is sorted into three qualities: 1. _Selected_, -consisting of leaves only. 2. _Mixed_, leaves with slight peduncles -and few stems. 3. _Stalky leaves._ The best quality occurs seldom in -commerce since the picking of the leaves does not cover the expense. - -According to Wray, the leaves are intentionally mixed with those of -the _ruku_ (_ocimum basilicum, L._), an herb indigenous to the Malayan -Islands. The leaves of the latter are broader than those of _pogostemon -patchouli_, and the stalks thinner and round. Seed-capsules are also -frequently found among the leaves, though patchouli seldom flowers and -bears seeds. - -In Europe, patchouli has been an article of commerce since 1841. In -the Orient it is highly esteemed as a perfume. The Arabs even ascribe -remedial properties to it, and it is customary with them to fill their -pillows with the leaves to protect them from infection and prolong -their lives. - -The peculiar, penetrating, though not exactly agreeable, odor of -patchouli leaves, is due to a volatile oil, of which they contain 1.5 -to 2 per cent. In the Orient this oil has for many years been obtained -by distillation. - -In the Penang market two kinds of oil, one _green_ and the other -_gold-brown_, are distinguished. Though both are sold at the same -price, there is a greater demand for the green oil. According to the -statements of the distillers, the brown oil is derived from the leaves -of old plants and the green oil from the leaves of young plants. It -would seem, however, that the color is dependent on the soil upon which -the plants are grown, as well as upon atmospheric influences. When ruku -is distilled with patchouli leaves, the oil is yellow and thickly-fluid. - -In Germany, the oil is now distilled from imported leaves. It is -thickly-fluid, of a brown color, and, in an undiluted state, possesses -a disagreeable, almost musty odor. However, when sufficiently diluted -and suitably mixed with other volatile oils, the odor is far more -agreeable, and for this reason it has for some time played an important -part in the manufacture of perfumery. It has the advantage of being -very yielding and lasting, but, on the other hand, possesses the -disadvantage of not combining with other perfumes, so that its odor is -always perceptible. It should always be used in very small quantities -or much diluted. - -In commerce Penang oil and French oil are distinguished, the first -having a specific gravity of 0.959 and the latter of 1.012. When -kept for any length of time the oil deposits patchouli-camphor -(C_{15}H_{28}O) in prismatic crystals of 1.045 specific gravity and -melting at 127 to 129° F. These crystals have a peculiar, very lasting -odor. - -Patchouli oil is soluble in equal parts of 90 per cent. alcohol, the -contrary indicating that it is not pure. It is chiefly adulterated with -cedar oil. - -_Peppermint oil._--The _Mentha_ family furnishes commerce with three -oils differing essentially from each other--_oil of curled mint_, -_peppermint oil_, _and poley oil_. - -_Oil of curled mint_ (_oleum menthæ crispæ_) is separated by -distillation with water from the leaves of _Mentha crispa, Linn._ It -is limpid, yellowish, sometimes greenish; in time it becomes darker -and more thickly-fluid. Its specific gravity varies between 0.890 and -0.965. It has a strong odor of curled mint and a pungent, somewhat -cooling, slightly bitterish taste. It is soluble in all proportions in -90 per cent. alcohol. In commerce a distinction is made between German -and American oil of curled mint, the latter generally containing oil -of turpentine and oil of sassafras. Odor, taste, and the alcohol test -suffice for the determination of the quality of the oil. - -Oil of curled mint contains a terpene, C_{10}H_{16}, and a body -isomeric with carvol, the carvol of curled mint, C_{10}H_{14}O. Its -specific gravity, boiling point and chemical properties are the same as -those of the carvol of caraway oil, but it differs from it by its odor -and turning the plane of polarization to the opposite direction. In -conjunction with other volatile oils, oil of curley mint is sometimes -used for perfuming soaps. - -_Peppermint oil_ (_oleum menthæ piperitæ_) is obtained from the fresh -flowering peppermint, _Mentha piperita_, natural order _Labiatæ_. In -commerce, German, English, American and Japanese peppermint oils are -distinguished. As regards fineness, the German oil is inferior to -the English and better kinds of American oils, but superior to the -Japanese. The best and most expensive oil is the English so-called -"Mitcham oil of peppermint," which dissolves in 50 parts of 50 per -cent. spirit of wine and possesses a fine, pure taste, it being for -this reason preferred by distillers for the fabrication of liqueurs. -For perfuming purposes, however, the American as well as the German -oils are very suitable. Of American oils that of H. G. Hotchkiss, -L. B. Hotchkiss, Hale & Parshall, and Fritzsche Bros. enjoy a high -reputation. The Japanese oil is distinguished from the rest by a -peculiar train-oil-like odor and taste, and is in but little demand. - -Crude oil of peppermint is yellowish to greenish and contains much -mucus; it has therefore to be subjected to another distillation with -water. The rectified oil is clear as water, limpid, of a strong but -pleasant odor and a specific gravity of 0.900 to 0.902. Old oil -thickens and then shows an acid reaction. The greater portion of the -oil congeals at the freezing point of water; many kinds, however, -requiring but slight cooling in order to become solid. The solid -portion of the oil, _Menthol_, (C_{10}H_{12},H_{2}O) is a colorless, -finely crystallized body with an intense odor of peppermint. It melts -at 107.6° F., is quite fluid at an ordinary temperature and boils at -413.6° F. Menthol is found in all oils of peppermint most abundantly in -the Japanese oil, which contains from 50 to 55 per cent. of it. Mitcham -oil is also very rich in menthol, it containing from 40 to 45 per -cent., while the American oil contains only from 20 to 25 per cent. - -American, German and English oils of peppermint may be distinguished as -follows: By adding to 5 or 6 drops of the oil, 25 to 30 drops of pure -white concentrated sulphuric acid, _American oil of peppermint_ becomes -heated and emits vapors, the mixture acquiring a dark brownish red -coloration. After mixing with 8 to 10 cubic centimeters of 90 per cent. -alcohol, the fluid becomes turbid, pale yellowish brown, or reddish -brown, and on boiling clear pale brown. When mixed with sulphuric acid, -_German oil of peppermint_ becomes heated without emitting vapors, -becomes yellowish red, not very dark, and turbid. After diluting with -alcohol, the fluid becomes turbid and yellowish red, and on boiling -somewhat more transparent and currant-red. _English oil of peppermint_ -treated in the same manner as the others with sulphuric acid becomes -very slightly heated without any emission of vapor. After diluting with -alcohol, it becomes clear and raspberry red. - -As adulterants of peppermint oil are mentioned: fat oils, alcohol, -oil of turpentine, copaiba oil, mustard oil, and ginger oil. The most -frequent adulteration is an admixture of oil of turpentine. It is -recognized by the oil not dissolving clear in equal parts of 90 per -cent. alcohol, as is the case with the pure product. To detect the -presence of copaiba oil, mix 5 drops of the oil to be tested with 15 to -20 drops of fuming nitric acid, shake and allow it to stand for 1 to 2 -hours. After this time the oily portion should be neither entirely nor -partially congealed, but remain fluid. To detect traces of mustard oil, -bring 10 drops of the oil into a wide reagent glass, then add 3 to 4 -cubic centimeters of absolute alcohol, 2 to 3 drops of silver nitrate -solution and 12 to 15 drops of ammonia. The mixture is clear and -colorless, and remains so on heating to boiling. In the presence of -mustard oil turbidity and blackening take place in consequence of the -formation of silver sulphide. After boiling, allow the fluid to stand -quietly for 2 or 3 hours. If it then shows a grayish turbidity, the oil -is adulterated with another volatile oil. - -Instead of pure American oil of peppermint, a product compounded -with camphor oil, and mostly freed from menthol, is said frequently -to occur in commerce. According to E. C. Federer, this is recognized -by dissolving one volume of oil of peppermint in 2 volumes of 94 per -cent. alcohol, adding water and shaking. Pure peppermint oil is then -separated with a certain portion of the alcohol. For example, mix 10 -cubic centimeters of oil of peppermint in a graduated cylinder of 45 -to 50 cubic centimeters' capacity with 20 cubic centimeters of 94 per -cent. alcohol, then add 10 cubic centimeters of water of 50° F. and -shake. After allowing the mixture to stand quietly, two layers are -formed, the upper one of which, if the oil is pure, will amount to 14 -cubic centimeters, but only to 12.5 cubic centimeters if the oil is -freed from menthol and compounded with camphor oil. A larger or smaller -addition of water to the alcoholic mixture is without influence upon -the height of the upper layer separated. - -In perfumery peppermint oil serves chiefly for aromatizing dentifrices, -etc. It should be kept in well-closed bottles in a shady place; an -addition of 0.5 per cent. of alcohol helps to preserve the oil for a -long time. - -_Poley oil_ (_oleum menthæ pulegii_).--In Southern France and Spain -this oil is obtained by distillation from the leaves of _Mentha -pulegium_. It has an odor resembling that of peppermint, is at first -colorless, but soon becomes yellow, has a specific gravity of 0.927, -boils at 361.4° to 370.4° F., and contains neither menthol nor carvol. -It is used for perfuming herb soaps. - -_Pimento oil_, or _oil of allspice_ (_oleum pimenta_) from the bruised -fruit of _Eugenia pimenta_, allspice, natural order _Myrtaceæ_. The oil -is pale yellow, becoming reddish-brown by age; it has a very pungent -taste and intense odor, very much resembling that of cloves. It is -heavier than water, its specific gravity being from 1.021 to 1.037. -It mixes with glacial acetic acid in all proportions. When treated -with nitric acid, pure pimento oil assumes a red color, with strong -effervescence. - -_Rose oil_ or _attar of roses_ (_oleum rosæ_) comes almost exclusively -from Bulgaria, where it is obtained by distillation with water -from the flowers of _Rosa damascena_. The small quantities of an -excellent quality of rose oil prepared in Southern France from _Rosa -provincialis_ remain in the country of their production and do not -even cover the local demand. The small productions of Persia and India -need also not be taken into consideration. In Tunis, where formerly -much rose water was prepared from _Rosa canina_ and also rose oil -of a very fine quality, the distillation of roses has, according to -Christo Christoff, been entirely abandoned, geranium oil only being now -produced. In the summer of 1884, Schimmel & Co., of Leipzic, Germany, -made the experiment to obtain oil on a large scale from indigenous -roses. The result was very satisfactory, 2000 lbs. of rose leaves -yielding about 1 lb. of oil, the extraordinarily agreeable odor of -which was so superior to that of the Turkish oil, that notwithstanding -the high price--double that of Turkish oil--it found ready purchasers. -At the ordinary temperature the Leipzic oil is solid, it only melting -at 89.6° F. - -In Bulgaria, Kazanlik, in the Tundscha Valley, is the centre of the -entire industry and the principal market. Rose oil is there called -"_gul-jag_" (_gul_, the rose, and _jag_, oil). The annual production of -Kazanlik and neighboring places, amounting 50 years ago to from 450 to -650 lbs., has within a few years risen to the enormous figure of 5500 -lbs. - -In Kazanlik two varieties of roses, known as the "white rose" and "red -rose," are cultivated; the former being _Rosa alba, L._, and the latter -_Rosa damascena, Miller_. By distillation the white rose yields an oil -of little perfume, but rich in stearoptene. On account of its slight -odor, the white rose is seldom distilled by itself, but occasionally -white and red roses are mixed in order to obtain an oil rich in -stearoptene, so that a fraudulent admixture of a larger quantity of -geranium oil may be effected without great danger of detection. The -large plantations consist only of bushes of red roses. But on the edges -of the field a strip, a few feet wide, is planted with white roses, -so that only flowers of little commercial value may be plucked by -passers-by. - -The flowers are gathered before sunrise, and, if possible, the same -day subjected to distillation. The latter is effected in a very crude -apparatus, over a direct fire. The flowers are distilled with double -their weight of water, one-half of which is drawn off. The product -of several operations thus obtained is combined and again distilled, -when, however, only one-sixth is drawn off. This distillate is allowed -to stand for one or two days in a place warmer than 59° F., when the -oil floating on the top is skimmed off. It may be supposed that on an -average 6600 lbs. of roses are required to obtain 2.2 lbs. of oil, and -that these 6600 lbs. of roses correspond to an area of 1 hectare (2.471 -acres) planted with rose bushes. - -Pure, carefully-distilled rose oil is at first colorless, but soon -turns yellowish.[8] Its specific gravity is between 0.830 and 0.890. -It consists of a liquid oil and a stearoptene, the content of the -latter varying very much. It is a pure hydrocarbon, odorless, of -specific gravity, 0.840 to 0.860, and distils at 572° F. Hence it is -lighter than the elæoptene on which alone the odor of the rose oil is -dependent. Rose oil generally congeals between 50° and 60° F., though -sometimes at a higher or lower degree, according to its content of -stearoptene. While some oils require the cold of winter for congealing, -others are in the heat of summer either entirely solid, or form a -fluid filled with many crystals. The odor of rose oil is peculiarly -honey-like, and too intense to be agreeable, its entire deliciousness -being only developed by strong dilution, be it by dissolving in water -or alcohol, or by distribution upon large quantities of rigid bodies, -fats, soaps, etc. In alcohol it dissolves with greater difficulty than -all other volatile oils, 1 part of it requiring for solution 140 to 160 -parts of alcohol of 0.815 specific gravity. - - [8] This, however, applies only to Bulgarian oil; French and Saxon - rose oils have a greenish color. - -The larger or smaller content of stearoptene in rose oil seems to be -dependent on climatic conditions, it having been remarked that the -quantity is the greater the lower the temperature of the region. The -oil from the coldest and highest regions of the Balkan is richer in -stearoptene than that from the lower and warmer regions. - -The genuineness of rose oil is generally judged by its odor, its -capacity of congealing, and the manner of its crystallization. The -odor is by all means the most reliable criterion, but requires -much experience, and especially reliable pure standard samples for -comparison. The capacity of congealing at certain conditions of -temperature, is, to be sure, also a requirement of genuine rose oil, -but, as previously mentioned, this property varies very much, and is -subject to different influences, so that a fixed standard at which pure -rose oil must congeal cannot be established. Attention must, however, -be called to the fact that the quality of a rose oil does by no means -rise with its greater capacity to congeal, since only the liquid -oxygenated portion possesses odor. - -Schimmel & Co. bring at present into commerce a liquid rose oil freed -from stearoptene which can be highly recommended for finer alcoholic -perfumes. It remains fluid at 32° F., but in a cold mixture congeals to -a gelatinous mass, and hence is not absolutely free from stearoptene. -It has an extremely fine and powerful odor, and when dissolved in -alcohol does not give the disagreeable crystalline separations of the -ordinary rose oil, which produce a disturbing effect, especially in the -preparation of extracts. - -For the insulation and determination of the stearoptene in rose oil, -Schimmel & Co. proceed as follows: Heat 50 grammes of oil together -with 500 grammes of 75 per cent. alcohol to from 158° to 176° F. In -cooling, the stearoptene separates nearly quantitatively. Separate it -from the fluid, treat it again in the same manner with 200 grammes of -75 per cent. alcohol, and repeat the operation until the stearoptene is -entirely free from odor. Two treatments of the crude stearoptene are -generally sufficient. In this manner Schimmel & Co. obtained from 1887 -German rose oil 32½ per cent. stearoptene, from 1888 German rose oil 34 -per cent., from 1887 Turkish rose oil 12 to 13 per cent., and from 1888 -Turkish rose oil 14 per cent. - -It is evident that such a valuable product as rose oil is much -subjected to adulteration, it being even said that oils containing -scarcely 10 per cent. of genuine rose oil occur in the market. The -chief adulterant used by the Bulgarians is the so-called geranium oil, -but actually ginger-grass oil derived from India, which is brought -by way of Arabia to Constantinople, and prepared for the purpose of -adulterating rose oil by treatment with lemon juice and bleaching in -the sun. The sophistication is generally effected by sprinkling the -ginger-grass oil thus prepared upon the rose leaves before distilling. -The general characters of this oil are so similar to those of rose oil -that detection, when the adulteration is kept within certain limits, -is very difficult, so that during the distilling time large buyers and -exporters of rose oil are forced to pay, besides their other officers -in Kazanlik, confidential native agents who constantly move around in -the distilling regions and report where distillation has been carried -on honestly, and where the ginger-grass oil bottle has been seen. -However, the prepared ginger-grass oil is frequently not even distilled -with the rose leaves, but simply mixed with the finished rose oil. - -Whether a rose oil is free from geranium or ginger-grass oil is tested -in Bulgaria, according to Christo Christoff, by the freezing method, -which is, however, unreliable. It is based upon the fact that an -addition of geranium oil reduces the congealing point of rose oil. Pure -Bulgarian rose oil congeals at from 63.5° to 68° F.; by the addition -of geranium oil, the same oil congeals at 61.25°, 59°, 56.75°, or at -a still lower temperature, according to the quantity added. The buyer -when purchasing oil carries with him two basins, one containing hot -and the other cold water, which he mixes in order to obtain a fixed -temperature, the operation being controlled by a Réaumur thermometer. -In the water thus prepared he completely submerges a 20 gramme flask -containing 15 grammes of the oil to be tested. In three minutes, -needle-like crystals of the separating stearoptene must appear, and -in ten minutes crystallization must be complete. According to the -congealing point thus established, the product is paid for. Oil -congealing below 59° F. being evidently adulterated is rejected and -bargained for at a special price. - -Many attempts have been made to fraudulently make this congelation -appear within the limits of temperature permitted, paraffine which -dissolves well in rose oil being formerly frequently added. In such -case the oil may congeal at from 65.75° to 68° F., but the crystals are -opaque, dirty yellow, and dissolve to a turbid paste which collects on -the surface. The simplest method is to distil white roses with the red. -The resulting product has not as fine an odor as that from red roses -alone, but is richer in stearoptene. Such oil, which, unadulterated, -congeals perhaps at 68° F., can by the addition of geranium oil be -reduced to from 63.5° to 65.75° F., thus keeping within the limits -permitted. - -Numerous attempts have been made to find a rapid and sure way for the -detection of geranium oil in rose oil, but thus far in vain. Attention -must also be drawn to the fact that the adulterant is frequently itself -adulterated with oil of turpentine before being sold to the distillers -of rose oil. - -Besides the above-mentioned ginger-grass oil, the actual geranium oils -from _Pelargonium odoratissimum_ and _P. roseum_, as well as rosewood -oil, sandal-wood oil, spermaceti, paraffine, and fat oils have been -mentioned as adulterants of rose oil. The geranium oils having a -by-odor of lemon oil, by which their presence could be readily detected -are not suitable for the purpose. Neither can rosewood or sandal-wood -oils be used, or at least such adulteration would be so clumsy as to be -immediately recognized. Attempts to adulterate rose oil by the addition -of a fat crystallizable body together with another volatile oil fail -on account of the characteristic properties of rose oil stearoptene, -which resembles no other body at present known. While rose oil -stearoptene is lighter than elæoptene and entirely volatile, spermaceti -possesses essentially different qualities. It does not form such long -and specifically light crystals as rose oil stearoptene; hence it -readily separates on the bottom and on shaking exhibits a peculiar -iridescent loamy formation. Furthermore it melts at 122° F., and not -being volatile, leaves, on heating, a greasy stain upon paper, while -the stearoptene melts at 95° F. and, on heating, volatilizes completely -without leaving a greasy stain behind. - -If a rose oil is to be tested, expose the bottle containing the oil to -a moderate heat until the contents are entirely liquid; then gently -shake the bottle in order to bring about an intimate mixture of -elæoptene and stearoptene. Now pour some of the oil into a cylindrical -glass flask of 20 to 40 cubic centimeters' capacity and allow it -to congeal; then, while heating in the hand, observe how the rigid -portions act in liquefying. These rigid, crystalline portions should -be transparently clear and, being lighter than the fluid portion, -float, while liquefying, in the upper layer of the fluid. Hence, if -now the fluid be again allowed to congeal, the crystals should appear -within the upper half of the oil. The above-mentioned volatile oils -partially lack the property of separating a stearoptene in crystals at -from 33.8° to 50° F., and though they may have a rose odor, it is not -the mild, fragrant odor of genuine rose oil. To recognize the latter, -Guibourt makes use of pure concentrated sulphuric acid. Stir together -in a watch-crystal an equal number of drops of the oil and of the acid; -pure rose oil preserves its characteristic odor, while the foreign oils -exhibit a disagreeable odor even when mixed with genuine rose oil. - -Schimmel & Co. give a method for an approximate quantitative -determination of spermaceti in rose oil: Boil 3 to 5 grammes of -stearoptene, separated in the manner above given, with 20 to 25 grammes -of 5 per cent. alcoholic potash lye for 5 to 6 hours; then evaporate -the alcohol and compound the residue with hot water. In cooling, the -greater portion of the stearoptene separates in a crystalline mass upon -the surface. Now pour off the alkaline fluid, wash the stearoptene -with cold water, then melt it again in hot water, allow it to cool, -pour off the water, and repeat the same operations until the wash-water -is neutral. The combined aqueous fluids are twice shaken with ether to -remove any stearoptene suspended in them. The alcoholic lye separated -from the ether is acidulated with dilute sulphuric acid and again -extracted with ether. After evaporation no residue (fatty acids) should -remain. To control the experiment weigh the regained stearoptene dried -at 194° F., adding, of course, the ether used for extracting the -alkaline fluid. There will be a small loss, since small quantities of -stearoptene always evaporate in drying. - -_Rosemary oil_ (_oleum rosemarini_ or _ol. anthos_) is obtained in -Southern Europe, especially in Southern France, Dalmatia and Northern -Italy, by distillation from the flowering rosemary, _Rosmarinus -officinalis_, natural order _Labiatæ_. It is, when fresh, limpid, -colorless, or yellowish, of a penetrating, camphor-like odor and taste, -and specific gravity 0.880 to 0.915. By age it becomes darker and -thickly-fluid. The French rosemary oil is the best and most expensive. -It is distinguished from the Italian oil by its much more pleasant -odor. Pure French rosemary oil dissolves in an equal part of 90 per -cent. alcohol, while the Italian product requires 2 to 3 parts. The -cheaper rosemary oils are generally adulterated with oil of turpentine, -which is recognized by the oil not dissolving in the above-mentioned -proportion in alcohol, as well as by the iodine test. Rosemary oil does -not detonate with iodine, but simply dissolves with heating and perhaps -the emission of vapors. - -The French rosemary oil forms one of the ingredients of _eau de -Cologne_ and is used in other perfumery. - -_Rosewood oil or rhodium oil_ (_oleum ligni rhodii_), is obtained by -distillation from the wood of the root and lower trunk of _Convolvulus -scopiarius_ and _C. floridas, L._, two plants indigenous to the -Canaries. The waste falling off in the manufacture of rosewood beads -is chiefly used for the purpose. The oil is of a pale yellow color -becoming brown by age. It has a pleasant odor resembling in some -slight degree the fragrance of the rose. It is sometimes used in cheap -perfumery as a substitute for rose oil. - -_Sandal-wood oil_ (_oleum ligni sandali_) is distilled from the -white West Indian or dark yellow East Indian sandal-wood (_Santalum -myrtifolium_). For the purpose of distillation the wood is rasped as -finely as possible. The oil obtained from the East Indian wood is the -better and more valuable. It has a dark yellow to brown color and a -pleasant intense, rose-like odor, while the West Indian oil is pale -yellow and of a less agreeable odor. Both oils are very thickly-fluid. -The quality and value of sandal-wood oil are best judged by the odor, -an adulteration with cedar oil being readily detected thereby. - -_Sassafras oil_ (_oleum ligni sassafras_), from the bruised root of -the sassafras tree, _Sassafras officinale_, natural order _Lauraceæ_. -Sassafras is one of the most widely distributed trees of North America, -being found in Canada, in all of the United States, east of the -prairies, beyond the Mississippi, and in Mexico. The largest amount of -oil distilled is within sixty miles of Baltimore, Md., which is the -principal depot for its commerce. - -Oil of sassafras varies in color from colorless to yellow and red. -Its taste is pungent and aromatic, being agreeable to most persons. -It has a pleasant odor resembling that of fennel, and is heavier than -water, its specific gravity being 1.08 to 1.09. It is soluble in 4 to 5 -parts of alcohol of 0.85 specific gravity, and consists of a mixture of -various oils, among which is safrene (C_{10}H_{16}), a dextrorotatory -terpene which boils between 311° and 314.6° F. By strongly cooling in -a cold mixture, safrol, a crystallizing stearoptene of the composition -C_{10}H_{10}O_{2}, is separated. Safrol is the chief constituent of -sassafras oil. It is obtained in abundance by cooling, at a temperature -of 13° F., the portion boiling between 442.4° and 455° F. It melts at -46.4° F., and at a medium temperature forms a colorless clear oil of -pungent taste, characteristic odor, and specific gravity 1.104. When -the crystals have been heated to above 158° F., they congeal only after -remaining for weeks at a temperature below 32° F., but on being melted -at 68° F., the fluid mass again congeals readily on cooling. The safrol -is neutral, optically inactive, boils at 449.6° F., and is soluble in -alcohol and ether. Sassafras oil is said to be frequently adulterated -with oil of turpentine, which is, however, readily detected by the -energetic reaction and by distilling a sample of the suspected oil. - -Safrol is very suitable for perfuming ordinary soaps. It has in a -still higher degree than camphor oil the property of removing the -disagreeable odor of some fats, while at the same time it imparts to -the soaps an aromatic, refreshing odor. As a rule 8 to 11 ozs. are -used for 220 lbs. of soap; but if it shall at the same time serve for -removing the disagreeable odor of low quality fats, especially those -extracted with bisulphide of carbon or benzine, it is advisable to -take 2.2 lbs., or still better, 4.4 lbs. for 220 lbs. of soap. In this -case the safrol should be added to the fat after melting and before -saponification and thoroughly mixed with it by stirring. An excellent -perfume for ordinary soaps is a mixture of safrol and citronella oil, -it being at any rate preferable to oil of mirbane. - -The standard of value for safrol is its specific gravity, which should -not be below 1.104 at 59° F. Specifically lighter kinds contain camphor -oil and other impurities. - -_Thyme oil_ is obtained in Southern France and Spain by distillation -from the flowering thyme, _Thymus vulgaris, L._ It is greenish-yellow -to red (red thyme oil, _oleum thymi rubrum_), but by rectification -becomes colorless (white thyme oil, _oleum thymi album_). Both oils -are quite limpid and possess a strong thyme odor. The specific gravity -of the red oil is 0.91 to 0.94, and that of the rectified oil 0.87 -to 0.89. The oil prepared from the fresh plant shows, as a rule, a -higher specific gravity than that from the dried plant. Thyme oil -consists essentially of thymene (C_{10}H_{16}) besides some cymene -(C_{10}H_{14}) and thymol (C_{10}H_{14}O), the latter forming an -essential constitutent of the oil. Oils from which the thymol has -been withdrawn occur in commerce. Pure thyme oil dissolves clear in -every proportion in 90 per cent. alcohol; if such is not the case, -adulteration with oil of turpentine is probable. - -The oil distilled from the field thyme, _Thymus serpyllum, L._, is -limpid, yellowish to gold yellow, and of specific gravity 0.89 to 0.91. -Old oil is red or brown and no longer limpid. Good oil is soluble in -every proportion in 90 per cent. alcohol and emits only slight vapors -when brought in contact with iodine. It consists largely of thymene and -cymene, and contains a few per cent. of phenol-like bodies. - -_Turpentine, oil of._--Under the general name "oil of turpentine" are -comprised the volatile oils obtained by distillation from the resins -or other portions of different species of the pine. There is a large -number of these oils, the most important ones of which shall here be -mentioned, though but a few are of interest to the perfumer. - -_Austrian oil of turpentine_, from _Pinus laricio, Poir_.--It is -colorless or yellowish, transparent; specific gravity, 0.864; boiling -point, 311° to 314° F.; turns polarized light to the left; soluble in 6 -parts 90 per cent. alcohol. When rectified it has a specific gravity of -0.862, and is soluble in 7 parts of 90 per cent. alcohol. - -_German oil of turpentine_, from _Pinus sylvestris_, _P. abies_, _P. -vulgaris_, _P. picea_, and _P. rotundata_, resembles the former; -specific gravity, 0.860 to 0.870; boiling point, 311° to 320° F.; turns -polarized light to the left. When rectified it is soluble in 7 parts of -90 per cent. alcohol. - -_French oil of turpentine_, from French turpentine of _Pinus -maritima_.--It is colorless or faint yellowish; specific gravity, -0.860; boiling point, 313° to 315° F.; turns polarized light to the -left; odor peculiar; taste burning. With 7 parts of 90 per cent. -alcohol it gives a clear solution. - -_Venetian oil of turpentine_, from Venice turpentine of _Larix decidua, -Mill._, is laevorotatory and resembles the preceding, but has a more -agreeable odor. Venice turpentine is mostly obtained in Southern Tyrol -and in Piedmont, and yields 18 to 25 per cent. of oil. - -_American oil of turpentine_, from American turpentine of _Pinus -australis, Mich._, and _P. Taeda, L._--It resembles French turpentine, -but turns polarized light to the right. Specific gravity, 0.864; -boiling point, 302° to 312.8° F. - -_Pine oil_ (_oleum abietis_) is obtained by distilling with water the -leaves or green cones of _Pinus picea, L._, _Abies pectinata, D. C._ -Its odor is much finer than that of ordinary oil of turpentine. It is -soluble in 7 parts of 90 per cent. alcohol. - -_Dwarf pine oil, Krummholz or Latschenoel_ (_oleum pini pumilionis_), -is obtained by distilling the young tops and cones of _Pinus -pumilio_ with water. It has an agreeable odor, reminding one of -juniper; specific gravity, 0.865; boiling point, 338° F. The oil is -laevorotatory and soluble in 12 to 15 parts of 90 per cent. alcohol. - -_Pine-leaf oil_ is obtained by distilling the leaves of _Pinus -sylvestris_ or _P. abies_ by means of steam. It is dextrorotatory; has -a fine aromatic odor; boiling point, 320° F.; specific gravity, 0.875 -to 0.876. - -_Templin oil_ (_Kienoel_) (_oleum pini_, _ol. templinum_) is obtained -chiefly in some sections of Switzerland and Tyrol by distilling the -wood, branches, leaves, cones, etc., with water. It has a lemon-like -odor; specific gravity, 0.860 to 0.880; boiling point, 320° to 327° F., -and is laevorotatory. - -_Balsam-pine oil_ (_oleum abietis canadensis_) is obtained in Canada -from the branches of _Abies balsamea, D. C._ It has a slightly -yellowish color, a very agreeable and refreshing odor; specific -gravity, 0.902; boiling point at 320° to 330.8° F., and turns -polarized light to the right. - -Of the different varieties of oil of turpentine mentioned only pine oil -and dwarf pine oil are used in perfumery. - -Oils of turpentine must be kept carefully protected from light and air. -When badly kept they gradually become resinous with formation of formic -and acetic acids. When exposed to the air oil of turpentine absorbs -ozone; with iodine it detonates violently. When brought in contact with -a mixture of concentrated sulphuric acid and nitric acid it ignites. - -_Verbena, oil of_, from the lemon verbena, _Aloysia citriodora, -Hooker_. The plant is cultivated in the gardens of Grasse. The oil is -extracted from the leaves by distillation in August, but on account of -its high price is almost out of market, it being everywhere substituted -by the oil of lemon grass, _Andropogon citratus_. - -_Violet, oil of._--The perfume of the violet, _Viola odorata_, natural -order _Violaceæ_, is due to a volatile oil of a green color and of such -a penetrating odor as to cause headache; it acquires the agreeable odor -of the violet only by strong dilution. The violet farms from whence the -flowers are procured for the production of the oil, are very extensive -at Nice and in the neighborhood of Florence. The oil is only obtained -by the absorption process, all other methods to procure it having -failed up to this time. It is scarcely obtainable in commerce, as the -French manufacturers, who prepare the greater part of it, use the very -small yield for manufacturing fine perfumery. - -_Vitivert or vetiver oil_ (_oleum iva ranchusa_) from the so-called -cuscus, the rhizome of an Indian grass, _Anathereum muricatum_. The -oil is obtained by distillation, either from the fresh root in India, -or from the imported dried root in Europe. The yield is very small. -The oil is thickly-fluid, of a red-brown color, and has an intense, -but agreeable odor very much like that of oil of orris root. Like the -latter, it possesses the valuable property of diffusing a lasting -perfume. Its value can only be judged by the odor, and hence it should -only be purchased from a thoroughly reliable firm. - -_Wintergreen oil_ (_oleum gaultheriæ_) is obtained by distillation -from the wintergreen, _Gaultheria procumbens_, a plant common in North -America. It is thickly fluid, yellowish green to gold yellow, of a -sweetish, aromatic, pungent taste and penetrating, narcotic odor, which -becomes agreeable only by strongly diluting the oil. By rectification -the oil becomes entirely colorless. Its specific gravity is 1.170 to -1.190 (according to Gladstone, 1.142). It is sparingly soluble in -water, but readily so in alcohol, ether, chloroform, etc. The aqueous -or dilute alcoholic solution is colored deep violet by ferric chloride. - -Wintergreen oil boils at 392° F.; the boiling point, however, soon -rises to 431.6° F., when it remains constant. Between 392° and 428° F. -a terpene (C_{10}H_{16}) constituting about 1/10 of the oil distils -off; the rest corresponds to the composition C_{8}H_{8}O_{3}; it is -methyl salicylate - - = C_{6}H_{4} {OH - {CO.OCH_{3}. - -Wintergreen oil is also obtained by distillation from _Gaultheria -punctata_ and _Gaultheria leucocarpa_. An oil, very closely resembling -wintergreen oil, is in this country distilled from the young shoots of -the American species of birch, _Betula lenta_, variously called sweet -birch, black birch, cherry birch, and mountain mahogany. According -to Procter, the oil does not exist in the birch but is formed by the -action of the water upon an odorless body, called gaultherin, which -is converted into volatile oil by the reaction of another substance -analogous to emulsin. Hence the formation of oil is similar to that -of oil of bitter almonds. To obtain the oil from _Betula lenta_, -the material is chopped up and placed in the still, as much as this -will hold, a sufficient quantity of water being then added to fill -the still about one-third full. The still is generally permitted to -remain in this condition over night, a fire is made in the morning -and distillation proceeds nicely. The manufacture of birch oil is -carried on at quite a large scale by Mr. A. H. Seidle, of Middleport, -Schuylkill County, Pa. - -Methyl salicylate may also be artificially prepared by heating a -mixture of methyl alcohol, sulphuric acid and salicylic acid whereby -at first methyl-sulphuric acid is formed which is then converted into -methyl ether and sulphuric acid:-- - - {OH {OCH_{3} - SO_{2}{ + CH_{3}OH = SO_{2}{ + H_{2}O - {OH {OH - - {OCH_{3} {OH - SO_{2}{ + C_{6}H_{4}{ = - {OH {COOH - - {OH {OH - C_{6}H_{4}{ + SO_{2}{ - {CO.OCH_{3} {OH. - -Etherification succeeds without difficulty, it being sufficient to -heat the mixture for some time and then pour it into water whereby -the ether separates as a heavy layer of oil. After washing with water -distil in a direct current of steam. The ether thus obtained is as -clear as water and, as regards its other properties, does not differ -from the naturally occurring oil. This artificial wintergreen oil is -now much used for perfuming purposes. - -Wintergreen oil is said to be frequently adulterated with sassafras oil -which is also specifically heavier than water. If, according to Hayer, -5 drops of the oil in a test-tube be mixed with 10 drops of crude -concentrated nitric acid, a deep blood-red fluid results in one minute -if oil of sassafras is present. In the course of another minute, the -fluid separates a brown resinous mass. Pure oil, on the other hand, is -but little altered. - -According to P. MacEwan the adulteration of wintergreen oil with -camphor oil is carried on at a large scale. The presence of camphor -oil may be recognized by the specific gravity, 0.900, while that of -pure wintergreen oil is, on an average, 1.18. A crude test--which is, -however, readily executed--is as follows: Stir a few drops of the -suspected oil in water. If pure, the oil in a few seconds sinks to the -bottom, but if it contains camphor oil several minutes elapse before it -deposits, and there is time to observe that the particles of oil assume -different forms, but not a globular one. - -_Ylang-Ylang oil_ (_oleum unonæ_) is obtained by distilling the flowers -of _Unona odoratissima_, indigenous to the Philippine Islands, the -Straits of Malacca, and Indian Archipelago. The oil is colorless to -yellowish. Its color and specific gravity, however vary very much, -according to the season of the year in which it is prepared, the oil -distilled in the cold season being more colorless and limpid than that -produced in the warm season. The oil has an exquisite odor, partaking -of the jasmine and the lilac, and is used in the manufacture of the -finest perfumery. Various kinds are found in commerce, that marked -"Sartorius" being preferred. - -The difference in quality of the many kinds of oil found in commerce -is chiefly due to the method of preparation and the selection of the -flowers, which possess the finest aroma when freshly gathered. In -distilling, the first light volatile portions passing over have an -incomparable perfume, while the oil distilling over later on possesses -an insipid odor. Hence the manufacturer, who only obtains the first -portions, will furnish the finest quality of oil, and it is this -method of preparation which has gained the "Sartorius" oil its high -reputation. While according to Schimmel & Co.'s report, 220 lbs. of -fresh ylang-ylang flowers yield 2.64 lbs. of oil, Sartorius for the -preparation of his fine oil distils off only about half the quantity. - -_Conanga oil_ is a poorer quality of ylang-ylang oil, obtained from -the same plant. Two varieties are distinguished in commerce, viz: the -_Javanese_ and _Indian_. The Java oil is the best, and may be used -where ordinary qualities of ylang-ylang oil will do. According to -Schimmel & Co.'s report the cheaper Indian oil is very resistant and -durable in soaps, especially when combined with licari or linaloë oil. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -RESINS AND BALSAMS. - - -The term _resins_ is applied to certain organic substances which are -very closely related to volatile oils, in so far as many of them are -formed from the latter by oxidation. As previously mentioned, by -exposure to the atmospheric air all volatile oils undergo a change, -whereby they thicken and are finally converted into substances -possessing the character of resins. In nature most resins also occur -mixed with volatile oils. - -The elementary constituents of resins are carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen; -but, generally speaking, they are poor in oxygen and rich in carbon. -Chemically they behave like weak acids, their solutions frequently -reddening litmus and sometimes expelling, on boiling, the carbonic acid -from alkaline carbonates. - -Independent of a possible content of volatile oil, every naturally -occurring resin consists of several resins which, however, can, as a -rule, be separated only with difficulty. - -The resins are generally divided into _hard resins_, _soft resins_ -or _balsams_, and _gum-resins_. The hard resins are, at the ordinary -temperature, solid, hard, and brittle, can be readily pulverized, and -contain little or no volatile oil. The soft resins or balsams are -kneadable, and sometimes even semi-fluid; they represent solutions of -resins in volatile oils, or a mixture of volatile oil and resin. On -exposure to the air they are changed by the volatile oil suffering -oxidation, they becoming then more or less hard, and may be converted -into actual resins. The gum-resins are mixtures of vegetable gum, -resin, and volatile oils, and are obtained by inspissation of the milky -juice of several plants. When triturated with water they yield a milky, -turbid fluid, and dissolve only partially in alcohol. - -The resins are widely diffused in the vegetable kingdom, there -being scarcely a plant which does not contain resin in one form or -another. Some families of plants and organs of plants are, however, -distinguished by their special wealth of resins. The resins are, as a -rule, secreted simultaneously with volatile oils in special reservoirs, -from which they flow out naturally at certain periods, or are obtained -by incisions made in the plants. A few bodies of the character of -resins also occur in the animal kingdom, and a series of them, the -fossil resins, are generally classed in the mineral kingdom, though -most of them are very likely derived from plants. Some resins, such as -the aldehyde resins, etc., are purely artificial products. - -Of the hard resins, benzoin alone is used in perfumery; of the balsams, -Peru balsam, Tolu balsam, and storax balsam; and of the gum-resins, the -myrrh. - -_Benzoin_ is exclusively obtained from _Styrax benzoïn, Dryand_ -(_Benzoïne officinale, Hayne_), a tree which grows in Java, Sumatra, -and Siam. The bark of the tree is slit to allow a fluid to flow out, -which concretes on the trunk in the form of grains, or is collected -in vessels in which it congeals and assumes the form of lumps -("tampangs"). Older trees which have been frequently tapped for resin -yield a product of a lower quality; the grains ("tears") forming, as a -rule, the better varieties. When the benzoin collects in large masses -it always shows an amygdaloid structure, the grains ("almonds") of a -roundish form, smooth termination, homogeneous structure, and paler -color, appearing imbedded in a dark, porous, or resiniform mass. - -According to the appearance of the product three varieties are -distinguished: Benzoin in tears (_B. in lacrimis_), _amygdaloid -benzoin_ (_B. amygdaloides_), and lump benzoin (_B. in sortis_, _B. -in massis_). The _benzoin in tears_ forms loose, smoothly terminated, -longish, homogeneously appearing masses of an opal-like lustre, and -first of a whitish, and later on, of a yellowish, reddish, or brownish -color. The separate pieces are up to 3 millimeters in diameter, though -the Siam benzoin in tears frequently consists of still larger and -generally decidedly flattened pieces. - -_Amygdaloid benzoin_ consists chiefly of white pieces, becoming, later -on, brownish, of a waxy lustre and imbedded in a lustrous brown-red -resinous mass. The _lump benzoin_ or _ordinary benzoin_ has also an -amygdaloid structure but is not so rich in almonds as the preceding -variety and possesses either a fine granular or colophony-like -ground-mass and is frequently contaminated by parts of plants. The -exterior of the variety occurring in commerce in large lumps shows, -according to the mode of packing, the imprint of leaves or of coarse -pack-cloth. - -Benzoin generally consists of cinnamic and benzoic acids which occur in -a crystalline state in the grains as well as the ground-mass; further, -of several amorphous resins soluble in alcohol, and coloring matter. -The content of cinnamic and benzoic acids amounts to from 12 to 20 per -cent. The best varieties from Sumatra and Singapore contain no benzoic -acid, and those from Siam no cinnamic acid. - -All varieties of benzoin possess a peculiar odor, that of the better -varieties being agreeable, and a sweet, aromatic, but pungent taste. -The melting point generally lies between 176° and 203° F., that of the -tears and of the almonds being lower than that of the ground-mass. -A low melting-point is accepted as a mark of quality, Siam benzoin, -which is considered the best, melting at 167° F. Some varieties, for -instance, those recently imported from Singapore, have a pronounced -vanilla-like odor; the presence of vanillin has been established in -them. The Sumatra benzoin has a storax-like odor. - -Benzoin is sparingly soluble in chloroform, only partially so in ether, -and completely in alcohol. On mixing the alcoholic solution with water, -the resin is separated. Petroleum-ether and benzine withdraw only -benzoic acid from the dry, powdered benzoin. All varieties of benzoin -dissolve in concentrated sulphuric acid to a beautiful purple colored -fluid, from which benzoic acid, if present, is separated in crystals -by the gradual addition of water. The establishment of the presence -of cinnamic acid is best effected as follows: Boil the sample in milk -of lime, filter, and treat the solution with hydrochloric acid. The -precipitate thereby separated is thoroughly washed, triturated with -potassium permanganate and water, and heated, whereby in the presence -of cinnamic acid, oil of bitter almonds is formed from the latter, -which is readily recognized by the odor. - -If benzoin containing benzoic acid be heated, white vapors are emitted -which, on cold surfaces, deposit in very delicate, lustrous, acicular, -or foliated crystals of benzoic acid, the so-called benzoin flowers -(_Floris benzoes_.) Benzoic acid thus prepared possesses an agreeable, -vanilla-like odor, since by heating the benzoin the greater portion -of the odoriferous substance contained in it escapes. Benzoic acid -separated by the wet method is odorless. - -Benzoin is especially used for fumigating pastilles. It is also of -great importance on account of its property of preventing fats from -becoming rancid, if added to them in small quantities. - -_Peru balsam_ (_Balsamum Peruvianum_) is the produce of the Balsam -Coast, San Salvador, Central America, where Sansonate forms the -central point of the industry. In the mountain forests, back of the -coast, grows the balsam tree (_Myroxylon Pereiræ, Klotzch_; _Toluiferæ -Pereiræ, Baillon_), natural order, _Papilionaceæ_. The gaining of -balsam commences when the tree is five years old, the collecting time -beginning in the dry season in the first days of November. The trunks -of the trees are belabored with hammers on four places (according to -other statements, on twenty to thirty), so that the bark is detached -in strips. After a few days the bark thus loosened is burnt off by -means of torches, whereupon a balsamic fluid oozes from the young wood, -which is absorbed by pieces of cloth or rags, placed upon the denuded -places. When the rags are thoroughly saturated with balsam, they are -squeezed out and then thrown into an earthen pot filled with boiling -water, whereby the balsam is detached and collects on the bottom of -the vessel. By this process the _Balsamo de trapó_ is obtained. By -boiling the bark, which falls off, a small quantity of a poorer quality -of balsam, called _tacuasonte_, is obtained, which, it would seem, -is frequently added to the better quality. Crude Peruvian balsam is -a gray-green to dirty-yellow fluid, of the consistency of syrup. The -process of purification in use on the Balsamic Coast is as follows: The -crude balsam is brought into large iron vessels, holding from 1300 to -1500 lbs. each, and allowed to clarify by quietly standing from 8 to -14 days, the heavy impurities settling on the bottom, while the light -dirt, together with the water, appears as foam on the surface. After 8 -to 14 days the balsam is drawn off through a cock, located about 4¾ -inches above the bottom of the vessel, into a tinned iron boiler, and -boiled over an open fire at a moderate heat for 2 to 3 hours. The foam -which forms is skinned off, and boiling continued until no more foam -appears. - -The collection of balsam continues until the first rain falls in April -or May, when the work ceases. A vigorous tree, well treated, yields -balsam for 30 years in succession, and if then allowed to rest 5 or 6 -years can be used several years longer. The annual yield of balsam from -100 trees is said to be about 550 lbs. - -From the very odoriferous flowers of the balsam tree or, according -to others, by expressing the fruits, a _white_ Peruvian balsam is -obtained, which is, however, seldom found in commerce. It is of the -consistency of honey, pale-yellow, smells of vanilla and melilot, and -has an aromatic bitter taste. On standing for some time it deposits -crystals of myroxocarpin. - -Ordinary (black) Peruvian balsam is a black-brown fluid, transparent -and dark (honey-yellow in thin layers), which retains its consistency -even after being kept for years and deposits no crystals. It shows -a slight acid reaction, has an agreeable odor reminding one of gum -benzoin and vanilla, and at first a mild, but, later on, a sharp and -pungent taste. - -The specific gravity of pure Peru balsam formerly varied between 1.14 -and 1.16, but at present between 1.135 and 1.145, this change in the -specific gravity being very likely due to a different process of -purification. - -Peru balsam is miscible in every proportion with absolute alcohol, -while ether leaves behind undissolved a black, smeary residue, and -hot oils of turpentine or almonds dissolve only about one-half. It -is miscible with acetone, chloroform, amyl alcohol. By digesting the -balsam with aqueous potash lye, _Peru balsam oil_, which constitutes -about 60 per cent. of the balsam, separates on the surface. In an -undecomposed state the oil is, according to Kachler, chiefly benzyl, -cinnamate, or cinnamein. The potash solution separated from the Peru -balsam oil, contains cinnamic acid, benzoic acid, and resin. The -latter, according to Stotze, can be separated into two portions, one -soluble, and the other insoluble, in aqueous alcohol. - -Benzine and petroleum-ether dissolve from the Peru balsam only the -nearly colorless cinnamein of which it contains up to 45 per cent. -The behavior of Peru balsam towards bisulphide of carbon is very -characteristic, 3 parts of it giving, according to Flückiger, a clear -solution with 1 part of bisulphide of carbon; if, however, 8 parts -more of the latter be added, up to 30 per cent. of a dark resin is -separated, while the bisulphide of carbon is but slightly colored. - -From San Salvador 11,000 to 13,000 lbs. of Peru balsam are annually -brought to Europe, it being generally imported in tin cans, and more -rarely in earthen jars surrounded by a kind of plaited matting. -According to whether the product comes by way of England, New York, -Bremen, or Hamburg, it is distinguished as English, American, Bremen, -or Hamburg Peru balsam. The supply being frequently insufficient, the -balsam is subjected to many adulterations. A cheap, so-called London -Peru balsam always contained colophony and had a specific gravity of -1.133. There can be no doubt that pure unadulterated Peru balsam is -difficult to obtain. - -As adulterants, are used: Alcohol, volatile oils, fat oil, especially -castor oil; further, copaiba balsam, Canada balsam, gurjun balsam, -storax, benzoin, and asphaltum. The establishment of these adulterants -is connected with difficulties; but the properties of Peru balsam are -so characteristic that it is quite easy to detect whether it is genuine -and pure, or not, the specific gravity and proportions of solubility -deserving especial attention in this respect. The test by the specific -gravity is available, since most of the adulterants render the balsam -specifically lighter, especially alcohol, but also copaiba balsam -(specific gravity, O.95), castor oil (0.96), oil of turpentine (0.87), -gurjun (0.96), etc. The customary procedure is as follows: Prepare a -common salt solution of 1.25 specific gravity, by dissolving 1 part of -dried sodium chloride in 5 parts of distilled water; drop the balsam -into the solution; every drop of pure Peru balsam sinks in a roundish -form to the bottom; but if the drop again comes to the surface and -spreads out upon it, it is a sure sign of some kind of adulteration. -However, the change in the specific gravity by the admixture of fat -oils is but very slight, since the balsam can only be mixed with them -to a conformable fluid in the proportion of from 7 to 10 to 1. Castor -oil forms an exception in this respect, it being miscible also in other -proportions. - -Petroleum-ether is an excellent testing agent. Bring into a test-tube -about 2.5 grammes of Peru balsam, and 6 to 7 centimeters of -petroleum-ether, close the tube with the finger and shake vigorously; -a brown, thickly-fluid mass adheres in unequal layers to the sides of -the tube, and before running together remains in this position 1 to -2 minutes after the petroleum-ether has been poured into a porcelain -saucer. If, however, the mass is thinly-fluid, and does not, in the -above-mentioned manner, adhere to the sides of the tube, but, after -shaking, collects below the petroleum-ether, the balsam is adulterated. -After shaking, immediately pour off the petroleum-ether; if the latter -is almost colorless, or but slightly colored yellowish, the balsam is -pure; if, however, it is turbid, and soon forms a sediment, or if it is -yellow or brownish, or brown, the balsam is adulterated. - -Alcohol is added either by itself or in the form of saturated -solution of storax, benzoin, or Canada balsam, by which means the -specific gravity of the balsam is but slightly changed. Bring the -above-mentioned common salt solution, together with 20 grammes of the -Peru balsam to be examined, into a small flask, and distil off about 5 -grammes; gradually mix the distillate with 5 drops of caustic potash -lye and potassium iodide solution saturated with iodine, shaking gently -until the mixture acquires a slightly yellow-brownish coloration. If -this coloration does not disappear in one minute, add drop by drop -more of the potash lye until discoloration appears. In the presence -of alcohol, yellow crystals of iodoform, which are readily recognized -under the microscope by their form, collect on the bottom of the fluid. -Adulteration with a volatile oil is recognized in the distillate by -odor and taste. - -Fat oil, Canada balsam, copaiba balsam, gurjun balsam, and volatile -oil may be recognized by the following tests: If pure Peru balsam in -a porcelain saucer is thoroughly mixed with an equal volume of pure -concentrated sulphuric acid, the mixture thereby becomes heated, vapors -of a pungent odor being emitted, and if then set aside to cool, it -congeals. In the presence of fat or volatile oils, copaiba balsam, -gurjun balsam, or Canada balsam, it remains, however, more or less -thickly fluid or more or less soft-smeary. If the balsam be pure, the -cold mixture, after washing with water, should yield a hardish or -soft-friable mass, which, when kneaded with the fingers, should not -prove smeary or sticky. - -Fat oils are also very readily recognized by the use of warm -petroleum-ether. The extract is evaporated, saponified with potash lye, -extracted with alcohol, evaporated and decomposed with hydrochloric -acid. A mixture of cinnamic acid and any of the fatty acids present in -the Peru balsam is thereby obtained, which, after treatment with water, -remains in the residue. - -Of copaiba balsam, Peru balsam can take up as much as 25 per cent. -From such adulterated balsam benzine dissolves the copaiba balsam, -together with cinnamein, and the adulteration can then be recognized by -the odor. Cinnamein treated with sulphuric acid acquires a cherry-red -color, while in the presence of copaiba balsam or gurjun balsam, a -yellow-brown coloration appears. The detection of an adulteration of -Peru balsam with storax is, according to Denner, effected as follows: -Shake in a test-tube 5 parts of the balsam to be examined with 5 parts -of a 15 per cent. soda solution (soda lye of 1.60 specific gravity) -and 10 parts of water. Then shake with 15 parts of ether, and after -settling pour off the ether as much as possible. Repeat the shaking -with 15 parts of fresh ether. Now heat the aqueous residue to boiling, -acidulate with hydrochloric acid, add cold water, remove the resin -separated thereby from the fluids, dissolve it in about 3 parts of soda -lye of the above-mentioned strength, dilute with 20 parts of water, -heat to boiling, and precipitate with barium chloride solution. Bring -the precipitate upon the filter, and, after allowing it to drain off, -dry it in the water-bath. Then extract it with alcohol, evaporate the -alcoholic extract, take it up with concentrated sulphuric acid, add -chloroform, and shake. In the presence of gum benzoin or storax, the -chloroform acquires a violet to blue color. This method is a sure test -for the recognition of even very small admixtures. - -A content of asphaltum is readily detected by mixing the Peru balsam -with ether compounded with about ⅛ alcohol. Any asphaltum present -remains undissolved, and may be collected upon a filter. - -In perfumery Peru balsam is chiefly used for pomades and fumigating -pastilles, but also for cosmetics and soaps. - -_Tolu balsam_ is the produce of _Myroxylon toluiferum, Humb._, _Bonpl._ -et _Kunth_, _Toluifera balsamum, L._, a tree of the natural order -_Papilionaceæ_, growing in Northwestern South America. It exudes during -the heat of the day, and is collected in gourds. It soon hardens, by -which it is distinguished from Peru balsam. In commerce two varieties -of Tolu balsam are found, one of the consistency of turpentine and the -other solid. The first variety, Brazilian balsam, forms a semi-fluid, -turpentine-like, sticky mass, of the color of copaiba balsam. By long -storage it becomes hard and brownish. The solid variety, Tolu, or -Carthagena balsam, is a brittle, more or less translucent yellow-brown -or red-brown resin of a granular or crystalline appearance. It softens -at about 86° F., and melts between 140° and 149° F. Viewed under the -microscope, it appears rich in crystals of separated ciannamic and -benzoic acids. Its specific gravity varies between 1 and 2. Both -varieties of Tolu balsam have an aromatic, slightly pungent and sourish -taste, resembling somewhat that of Peru balsam. They are readily -soluble in ordinary spirit of wine, alcohol, acetone, chloroform, and -potash lye, but insoluble in petroleum-ether and bisulphide of carbon. -In Tolu balsam have been found toluene, cinnamic and benzoic acids, and -several resins not yet sufficiently examined. According to Scharling, -toluene constitutes about 1 per cent. of the Tolu balsam. It forms -a colorless, limp oil, boils, according to Deville, at 338° F., and -according to E. Kopp, at between 309° and 320° F., and has a specific -gravity of 0.858. It has a sharp, pungent, pepper-like taste, and an -odor resembling that of elemi. In the air, it is gradually converted by -oxidation into a soft resin, without, however, becoming colored. - -On boiling Tolu balsam with water, cinnamic and benzoic acids are -separated from the solution. When treated with potash lye the resinous -acids are fixed, and the toluene floats upon the fluid. - -Commercial Tolu balsam is frequently more or less mixed with vegetable -remains, which, however, can be readily detected with the microscope, -especially after the solution of the resinous constituents. It -is frequently adulterated with turpentine or pine resin. Such -adulterations may be detected by bisulphide of carbon, which completely -dissolves these substances, but not the Tolu balsam. When pure Tolu -balsam is triturated with concentrated sulphuric acid, a cherry-red -fluid is, according to Ulex, obtained, which does not evolve sulphurous -acid, as is the case in the presence of turpentine-resins. - -Tolu balsam is chiefly used for fumigating pastilles. The tincture -prepared from it is also frequently used with advantage to give -durability to the scent of handkerchief perfumes. - -According to Holmes and Nalor, a Tolu balsam differing in its chemical -behavior is found in the English wholesale trade. In thick layers -it is yellow-brown, but perfectly transparent and gold-yellow in -thin layers and extraordinarily sticky. By storage it hardens but -slightly, and does not become brittle even if exposed for several days -to a temperature of 212° F. Its odor reminds one somewhat of glue, -and it develops a pungent, sharp taste only after chewing it for a -few seconds. Its melting point lies at 136.4° F., being lower than -that of ordinary Tolu balsam, from which it also differs in that it -completely dissolves in ether as well as in benzine, while it is only -partially dissolved by potash lye. The balsam contains no toluene, nor -a hydrocarbon, boiling at 320° F. Further investigations have shown it -actually to be a natural product, the derivation of which, however, -could not be ascertained. - -_Storax_ is the produce of _Liquid ambar orientale, Mill_, a -plantain-like tree which reaches a height of about 32 feet. In -Southern Asia Minor, especially in Cyprus, the tree forms handsome, -dense forests. According to Flückiger, the balsam is extracted from -the peeled-off bark, with the assistance of warm water. The mass thus -melted out sinks down in the water, and is later on combined with the -substance obtained by expressing the boiled bark while still warm. This -mixture forms the _liquid storax_ (_Storax liquidus_). The residue -remaining after expression is dried in the sun and forms, under the -name of _Cortex thymiamatis_, an article of commerce, which is used for -fumigating purpose, for the preparation of ordinary storax, etc. The -crude storax is brought to Smyrna, Syra, and Kos, and comes into the -European market almost exclusively from Trieste. - -Liquid storax is a sticky, opaque substance of the consistency of -turpentine. It has a mouse-gray color, which by contact with the air -becomes brown on the surface, an agreeable benzoin-like odor, and a -sharp, pungent, aromatic taste. It is heavier than water, its specific -gravity being 1.112 to 1.115. On losing its content of moisture (by -drying out when heated) it becomes brown and clear. When exposed to -the air in a thick layer it does not completely dry, and in a thin -layer only after considerable time; but when pressed with the finger -always shows a certain stickiness. It is partially soluble in spirits -of wine, yielding with it a more or less turbid solution. It is also -incompletely soluble in oil of turpentine, benzine, petroleum-ether, -and chloroform. Viewed under the microscope liquid storax appears as a -colorless thickish fluid, intermingled with larger and smaller drops, -fragments of bark tissue, and now and then, perhaps, with crystals of -styracin and cinnamic acid. - -Liquid storax contains styrol (10 to 15 per cent.), styracin, and -cinnamic acid (10 to 15 per cent.). Styrol or cinnamol seems to be -the most important carrier of the odor and taste of liquid storax. If -20 parts of liquid storax are subjected to distillation together with -15 parts of crystallized soda and 200 parts of water, the cinnamol -collects in the form of a yellowish, very mobile liquid upon the -distillate. By rectification it can be obtained colorless, but is -thereby partially converted into metastyrol, an isomeric, amorphous, -odorless, and tasteless substance which is solid at an ordinary -temperature. By exposure for some time to a heat of 608° F. it is -reconverted into styrol. Styrol (C_{8}H_{8}) forms a clear, colorless, -mobile liquid having an odor of benzine and naphthalene. Its specific -gravity is 0.924 and its boiling point lies at 294.8° F. In water it -is but sparingly soluble, but is miscible in all proportions with -anhydrous spirit of wine, chloroform, benzine, ether, and oils. It -stands in the same relation to cinnamic acid as benzol to benzoic acid, -and is formed by distilling a mixture of cinnamic acid and barium oxide. - -Styracin is cinnyl cinnamate. On distilling liquid storax with water, -styrol passes over. If now from the residue the cinnamic acid be -withdrawn by means of soda-solution, and the resin, which remains -behind, be treated with cold spirit of wine, styracin is left, which -crystallizes from ether, hot alcohol, or benzol. It forms colorless, -odorless, and tasteless crystals which melt at 113° F. and remain for -a long time fluid after melting. It is insoluble in water, but soluble -in 25 parts cold, and 2 parts boiling, spirit of wine, as well as in 5 -parts ether. By oxidizing substances it is converted into bitter almond -oil and benzoic acid, and by the action of potassium hydroxide it is -decomposed to cinnyl alcohol and cinnamic acid. - -Good liquid storax should yield to 90 per cent. alcohol at least so -much soluble matter that the dried residue of the filtered alcoholic -solution amounts to 65 per cent. of the quantity of storax. - -Ordinary liquid storax, which has not been stored too long, contains -10 to 20 per cent. of water and about the same quantity of impurities -(fragments of plant tissue) which remain behind on treatment with the -above-mentioned solvents. - -Liquid storax is said to be adulterated with the turpentines of some -species of larch and pine. Such adulteration is primarily detected, -according to Hager, by the specific gravity. Take up a drop of the -balsam with a knitting-needle, and by heating the needle make it -fall into a cold solution of 1 part common salt and 8 parts water. On -stirring, the drop must sink, otherwise adulteration with turpentine -is very likely. Next bring 5 grammes of the storax into a test-tube, -melt it in the water-bath, add ½ volume of absolute alcohol, and -mix by shaking; then compound the mixture with several times its -volume of petroleum-ether, shake vigorously, allow to settle, and -decant the layer of petroleum-ether. Repeat twice this shaking with -petroleum-ether; then evaporate the petroleum-ether solution in a tared -flask in the water-bath. The residue remaining after evaporation is -colorless, bluish opalescent, and of an agreeable odor; in the presence -of turpentine it is yellowish and has the, not to be mistaken, odor of -turpentine. - -_Storax in grains_ consists of round, longish grains of a brown-black -color and smooth, lustrous surface, which soften by the warmth of the -hand. It is nothing but liquid storax brought into a granular form and -by storing freed more or less from impurities. - -_Ordinary storax_ (_Styrax calamitus_ or _St. vulgaris_) is an -artificial product prepared by mixing liquid storax with various -comminuted vegetable substances. Formerly the above-mentioned bark of -the storax tree (_Cortex thymiamatis_) was only used for this purpose, -but at present sawdust and exhausted cinnamon are also taken. This -storax forms a reddish or brown-black, humus-like mass, which is -generally moist. When dried it is very friable and has a storax-like -odor distinctly calling to mind that of cinnamon. Good qualities are -abundantly covered with crystalline efflorescences (of cinnamic acid -and styracin); poorer qualities prepared with the addition of sawdust -have a musty odor. The admixed vegetable tissue can, according to -Wiesner, be readily recognized by boiling the storax with alcohol, -and after washing treating with dilute chromic acid, to which a small -quantity of sulphuric acid has been added. - -Liquid storax was already used for fumigating purposes by the ancient -Greeks and Jews, and it forms to-day a constituent of fumigating -pastilles, essences, etc. Storax tincture furthermore possesses the -property of giving more constancy to scents resembling it. Piesse says, -in regard to the odor of liquid storax, that it combines the agreeable -with the disagreeable, it possessing partially an odor similar to that -of the tuberose and partially one reminding of coal-tar oil. However, -it possesses this disagreeable odor only in a concentrated state; when -finely divided or diluted, it diffuses a very agreeable perfume. - -Under the name _American storax_, _white Peru balsam_, _white Indian -balsam_ or _liquid ambar_ is found in commerce a product similar -to storax, which is derived from _Liquidambar styraciflua, L._, a -tree indigenous to Mexico and Louisiana. This balsam forms a clear, -transparent, brownish-yellow, semi-fluid mass. It has a storax-like -odor, and a sharp and pungent taste. It is only partially soluble in -alcohol, specifically lighter than water, and shows an acid reaction. -It is said to consist of 24 per cent. styracin, 1 per cent. benzoic -acid, volatile oil, etc. It is sometimes used for fumigating purposes, -but chiefly serves for the adulteration of Tolu balsam. - -_Myrrh_ (_Gummi-resina myrrha_, _Gummi myrrha_) is a gum resin, the -produce of _Balsamodendron Ehrenbergianum, Berg_, and, perhaps, also -of _Balsamodendron Myrrha, Nees_. The first-named tree is found in -the countries bordering on the Red Sea, and extends into Africa to -the Somali Coast, where the principal supply of myrrh is collected. -The gum-resin exudes naturally as a white oil-like mass, which, after -hardening, whereby it becomes considerably darker, is collected by the -natives and brought chiefly to Berbera, a small seaport opposite Aden, -to be exchanged for English and Indian goods. From there, by way of -Aden and Bombay, it reaches the European market. In Bombay the first -sorting takes place, which is, however, superficial, and hence has to -be repeated in Europe (London). According to Parker, ten different -resins are admixed with myrrh, especially bdellium resins. - -In commerce _Myrrha electa_ and _Myrrha vulgaris_ or _in sortis_ are -distinguished. _Myrrha electa_, the best quality, occurs in pieces of -irregular form and variable sizes, consisting of tears--either distinct -or agglomerated--usually covered with a fine powder or dust. The -surface is seldom smooth, but generally rough or granular. The color -varies, being pale reddish-yellow, red, or reddish-brown. The fracture -is conchoidal, seldom smooth, but rather granular, rough, of a fatty -lustre, and sometimes shows whitish striæ or veins, or opalesces like -flint. The fractured edges are more or less translucent; thin disks -or splinters are translucent or transparent. The specific gravity is, -according to Hager, 1.195 to 1.205, and according to Ruickholdt, 1.12 -to 1.18. A _Myrrha electa_ is the better, the more fragile, friable, -and paler in color it is, and the more rapidly it ignites and burns -with a yellow, sooty flame. Poorer qualities may be recognized by the -dark-brown color and dirty appearance. Myrrh is with difficulty rubbed -to a fine powder, this being possible only after drying, which must, -however, be done at a very moderate heat in order to prevent loss of -volatile oil. - -According to Hager, myrrh consists in 100 parts of about 2.5 parts -volatile oil (myrrhol), 25 to 35 parts resin (myrrhin), 55 to 65 parts -gum soluble in water, 3 to 8 parts salts, impurities, and water. Water -forms with myrrh an emulsion, and dissolves the gum. The resinous -constituents are dissolved by spirit of wine. - -The gum, which forms the portion of the myrrh soluble in water, -but insoluble in alcohol, and amounts to from 57 to 59 per cent., -is, according to Oscar Koehler, a hydrocarbon of the formula -C_{6}H_{10}O_{5}. The portion soluble in alcohol is, according to -the same chemist, a mixture of various resins, an indifferent soft -resin of the formula C_{26}H_{34}O_{5}, soluble in alcohol and ether, -forming the greater portion of it. There are further present two resin -acids, one of which has to be considered a bibasic acid of composition -C_{12}H_{16}O_{8}, and the other as a monobasic acid of the formula -C_{26}H_{32}O_{9}. The principal constituent of the volatile oil -of which, according to Koehler, 7 to 8 per cent. is present, while -Ruickholdt formerly found only 2.18 per cent. corresponds to the -formula C_{10}H_{14}O. The volatile oil is laevorotatory, and when -diluted with bisulphide of carbon becomes, according to Flückiger, -violet by the action of bromine. An extract of myrrh, prepared with -bisulphide of carbon, gives the same reaction with bromine vapor. -Hydrochloric or nitric acid also colors myrrh violet, which also -applies to the volatile oil. - -Petroleum-ether should, at the utmost, take up 6 per cent. of the -myrrh, and the extract must be colorless. - -Myrrh is frequently contaminated with bark, which forms either a film -of cork as thick as paper or a crust of a fibrous and, at the same -time, brittle nature. Sand or small pebbles are also frequently mixed -with the myrrh. Other varieties of gum or gum-resin, which considerably -decrease the value of the product, are often found in the commercial -article, the inferior qualities especially being adulterated and -mixed with dark pieces of Suakim gum, gum of the plum or cherry tree, -bdellium, and similar substances, which are partially moistened with -myrrh tincture, and scattered over with myrrh powder. Adulteration -with gum-arabic, gum of the plum or cherry tree, which are coated -with alcoholic myrrh solution, is recognized by the paler lustre, -greater transparency, and mucilaginous taste. Pieces of resin melt on -heating, while myrrh only swells up. Bdellium is detected by the dark -or black-brown color, toughness, less bitter taste, and by crackling -and spitting when held in the flame of a candle, as well as by the -reaction of myrrh with nitric acid discovered by Bonastre. By mixing -5 cubic centimeters of alcoholic myrrh tincture with 5 to 10 drops of -fuming nitric acid, a rose-color coloration passing into red results. -Parker gives the following method for testing myrrh: Prepare a tincture -of 1 part myrrh and 6 parts spirit of wine. Saturate with this tincture -white filtering paper, allow it to drain off, and then wrap it around -a glass rod moistened with nitric acid of 1.42 specific gravity. With -genuine myrrh the paper immediately becomes deep yellow-brown and then -black, while the edges of the paper strip appear dark purple-red. -When a few drops of the tincture of myrrh are allowed to dry in, a -transparent residue remains behind. The tinctures of spurious articles -(with the exception of bissabol) give turbid residues. - -Myrrh was already in Moses's time an article used in the sacrifices -of the Israelites. It seems to have been made use of by Democrates. -Dioscorides enumerates eight varieties of it, and Pliny seven, which he -obtained from Abyssinia. Herodotus and Diodorus Siculus mention Arabia -as the home of the myrrh tree. - -In perfumery, myrrh is chiefly used for dentifrices and fumigating -pastilles and essences. - -_Opopanax_ is the inspissated juice of the root of _Opoponax Chironium, -Koch_, or _Ferula Opoponax, L._ It forms grains or lumps of a -red-yellow or brown color, and has a fracture of a waxy lustre. It can -be rubbed to a gold-yellow powder. It has a strong and peculiar odor, -and a very bitter and balsamic taste. With water it forms an emulsion, -while it is only partially soluble in spirit of wine. It contains very -little volatile oil, and a resin which melts at 212° F., and is soluble -in ether and aqueous alkalies. It further contains gum, organic and -inorganic salts, and foreign admixtures. Opopanax is but little used in -perfumery. For _Extraits_ the opopanax oil is better adapted than the -tincture prepared from the gum, the latter coloring the _Extrait_ dark. - -_Olibanum or Frankincense_ is the inspissated juice of various -varieties of _Boswellia_, partially indigenous to Africa and partially -to Asia. The pure pieces are pale yellow, seldom reddish, transparent, -or opaque, brittle, covered with a mealy coating and of a splintery -fracture. The specific gravity of olibanum is 1.22; its odor is -slightly balsamic, and its taste bitter and pungent. It melts only -incompletely when exposed to heat, diffusing an agreeable odor. It -consists in 100 parts of 5 to 7 parts of a clear volatile oil, boiling -at 323.6° F., and of specific gravity 0.86, 56 parts of acid resin, -and 30 to 36 parts gum, which corresponds with gum-arabic. With water -it forms a milky fluid, and is mostly dissolved by spirit of wine. -Selected olibanum (_Olibanum electum_) is the best commercial variety, -while _Olibanum naturale_, _O. in lacrymis_, and _O. in sortis_, form -darker pieces intermingled with separate paler grains, and contaminated -by pieces of bark, and wood and sand. - -Olibanum is only adulterated with sandarac and naturally exuded pine -resin, inspissated to tears by exposure to the air. The former is -recognized by the fracture being glassy and transparent, and the latter -by completely dissolving to a clear solution in spirit of wine. - -Olibanum serves as an addition to fumigating pastilles, etc. - -_Sandarac_ is the resin exuding from the bark of _Thuja articulata, -Desf._, or _Callitris quadrivalvis, Vent._, which grows in Barbary. It -forms pale yellow, transparent, brittle grains with a glassy fracture, -which have a specific gravity of 1.06 to 1.09 and fuse readily. Its -odor is slightly balsamic and its taste somewhat bitter. Sandarac -softens at 212° F. and melts at 275° F. It dissolves in hot absolute -alcohol, ether, and amyl alcohol, is less soluble in chloroform, -petroleum-ether, and volatile oils, and insoluble in benzol. In 90 -per cent. alcohol ⅘ of it dissolve; the term _sandaracin_ has been -applied to the insoluble portion. According to Unverdorben, sandarac -consists of three different resins. It is sometimes employed in -fumigating pastilles. CHAPTER VI. - -PERFUME-SUBSTANCES FROM THE ANIMAL KINGDOM. - - -Musk is a peculiar concrete secretion obtained from _Moschus -mochiferus, L._, an animal bearing a close resemblance to the deer -in shape and size, and indigenous to the high plateaus of Asia. The -musk is contained in an oval, hairy, projecting sac, found only in the -male, situated between the umbilicus and the prepuce. It is from 2 to 3 -inches long and from 1 to 2 broad. - -In commerce, several varieties of musk are distinguished, the principal -ones, however, being Tonkin and Kabardin musk. - -_Tonkin_, _Thibet_, or _Oriental musk_, _Yunnan musk_ (_Moschus -tonquinensis_, or _orientalis_, or _transgangetanus_) is the best -variety. It comes from China, Tonkin, and Thibet. It consists of sacs -of a puffed-up appearance, more roundish than longish, varying in -size, being at the utmost 1.77 inches long, up to 1.57 inches broad -and 0.59 to 1.18 inches thick, and weighing from 8.46 drachms to 1 -oz. 9.39 drachms each. The hairy side of the sac is concave and the -other flat. Fig. 21 shows an unshorn Tonkin musk sac of medium size -from the concave or hairy side and Fig. 22 the same from the side. The -envelop of the sac consists of a double skin, the outer skin being -gray-brown. One side of the sac is covered with stiff, yellowish hair -with red-brown points, generally cut short. The original packages, -containing usually 24 sacs each, consist of longish, four-cornered -boxes lined with lead-foil and covered outside with some silken stuff. -Each sac is separately wrapped in tissue paper. The musk-substance -appears as a dark red to black-brown mass intermingled with hair, and -forming roundish grains. The odor is penetrating and the taste bitter. - - [Illustration: FIG. 21.] - - [Illustration: FIG. 22.] - - [Illustration: FIG. 23.] - -_Kabardin_, _Siberian_, or _Russian musk_ (_Moschus sibirius_, or -_cabardinicus_) is a cheaper variety of an inferior quality, which is -brought from Mongolia and Siberia. The sacs (Fig. 23) are longish, -generally pear-shaped, flatter in proportion to their longitudinal and -latitudinal dimensions, and not of a puffed-up appearance, the surface -being frequently even shrivelled or wrinkled. The outer skin is denser -and harder, and on the convex side covered with longer hair (up to 0.9 -inch long), of nearly a silver or brownish color. Towards the edge of -the sac the hairs are, however, frequently so trimmed and shorn as to -give the sac a resemblance to the Tonkin article. The musk-substance -inclosed in the sac amounts to from 8.46 drachms to 1 oz. It is -somewhat paler, more brown or yellow-brown, soft, almost unctuous, when -fresh, but after storing, solid or granular-pulverulent, like ground, -burnt coffee. The odor is weak, offensive, more urinose, resembling -that of castor, or horse sweat. - -_Moschus ex vesicis_ is said to be the musk taken from Tonkin sacs. -As a rule, however, it consists of a mixture of musk substance taken -from good sacs which present a bad appearance, or have been torn, and -from sacs of an inferior quality, frequently adulterated with foreign -substances, such as dried blood, dung of birds, weathered bicarbonate -of soda, etc. - -To open a musk sac, cut it with a sharp penknife around where the -hairless side joints the hairy side, and empty it by scraping it out -upon a sheet of paper. The membranes and hair are then removed by means -of pincers. - -The musk-substance of the Tonkin sacs is generally a heavy, dry-feeling -mass; it is partially intermingled with and partially enveloped by -small, thin, soft, brown, somewhat transparent membranes and frequently -mixed with small hair. It is partially loose and crummy, and partially -consists of various lumps or grains of the size of a mustard seed to -that of a pea, which are more or less roundish, more seldom angular, -softer or harder (but can always be readily cut), of a fatty lustre and -black-brown or dark-red color. In fresh sacs, the mass is frequently -soft, and, when bruised, somewhat smeary, but never unctuous. On -rubbing, it becomes paler in color, and glistening hair-like, paler, -gray or whitishyellow particles, sometimes of a crystalline texture, -appear. The odor of the musk substance is peculiar, strong, and very -constant; it is agreeable only when much diluted. - -Musk is not a substance of a constant chemical and physical -constitution, the reason for this being found in the age and the -different foods of the musk animal, the season in which it is killed, -and the degree of dryness of the musk-substance. Water dissolves ¾ -of good musk and 90 per cent. alcohol ½. The alcoholic solution is -not precipitated by water. Musk further contains fat-like substances, -wax, gall-substances (together 10 to 12 per cent.), glue-substances -and albumen (6 to 9 per cent.), traces of lactic and butyric acids, -phosphates, sulphates and hydrochlorates of the alkalies and alkaline -earths, frequently strong traces of ammonium carbonate and a volatile -oil, further moisture, humus-substance, and fibrous matter. - -Musk, when dried, has a weak odor, which gradually becomes stronger on -moistening. There are several substances which destroy the musk odor, -especially bitter almonds, camphor, sulphur, acids and sulphates. The -odor adhering to a mortar in which musk has been rubbed can best be -removed by pounding bitter almonds in it. - -Since, on account of the high price of musk, the musk animal is much -hunted, there is a possibility of it becoming in time extinct. For this -reason a substitute has been long searched for, and is believed to have -been found, especially, in the American musk-rat (_Fiber zibethicus_), -which is chiefly hunted for its skin. In this animal the musk is found -in two small sacs located between the anus and generative organs, -and is emitted when the animal becomes excited. According to R. S. -Cristiani, this musk is invaluable for the toilet soap industry of -America, it being nearly as good and strong as genuine musk. Cristiani -has formerly used much of it for scenting soaps, powders, etc., but -does not recommend it for essences. When used for soaps, some time is -required for the odor to become refined, and if a piece of soap scented -with it is stored for a few months, it would, according to Cristiani's -assertion, be difficult even for an expert perfumer to distinguish the -odor from that of genuine Tonkin musk. - -As possible substitutes for the musk deer may further be mentioned -a species of rat indigenous to the West Indies, and an antelope of -North Africa. It is also said that musk derived from the Mississippi -alligator has been brought into commerce. The sacs are said to -be small, the odor somewhat different from that of genuine musk, -resembling that of civet, but suitable for perfuming purposes. - -A process for the preparation of _artificial musk_ has been patented -by Dr. Baur, of Gispersleben. According to the specification, toluol -is mixed with the halogen compounds of butane and boiled with the -addition of aluminium chloride or aluminium bromide. The product of the -reaction is mixed with water and distilled with steam. The fraction -passing over between 338° and 392° F. is caught and treated with fuming -nitric acid and fuming sulphuric acid. The product obtained is washed -with water and alcohol, and crystallized. The artificial musk forms an -amorphous white powder, which in time becomes yellow. It is readily -soluble in 90 per cent. alcohol, but from solutions in weaker alcohol -it again crystallizes out at a cool temperature. The odor becomes very -pronounced after the addition of 5 drops of ammonia to 1 pound of a one -per cent. solution. - -This artificial product having been in existence but for a short -time, it is not possible to come to a final conclusion as to its -availability. However, its odor differs essentially from that of the -genuine article, and it can scarcely be employed for fine extracts; -if low enough in price it might, however, be suitable for soaps and -cheaper perfumes. - -Musk is very much adulterated, the Chinese being adepts in this -sophistication. Dried blood, on account of its resemblance to musk, -is among the most common adulterations, but, besides this, sand, iron -filings, hair, the dung of birds, wax, asphaltum, and many other -substances are introduced. They are mixed with a small portion of -musk, the powerful odor of which is communicated to the entire mass, -and renders the discovery of the fraud sometimes difficult. The bags -containing the musk should have the characteristics before described -as belonging to the natural sac, and present no sign of having been -opened. One of the grossest frauds, which is also perpetrated in -Europe, consists, according to Hager, in perforating the musk sac with -a needle, placing it in strong rum or weak spirit of wine, and, after -pressing it with the fingers, washing with spirit of wine and drying -in the air. By this means a tincture suitable for perfuming purposes -is obtained, while the musk-substance is increased in weight by the -absorption of moisture. Sacs thus treated are, however, readily -recognized, they being, after drying, gnarled and uneven. - -Good musk-sacs should yield from 50 to 60 per cent. of musk. An -admixture of blood is detected by the musk acquiring a putrid odor -when moistened with water. The presence of pieces of metal, pebbles, -resin, etc., is recognized by the naked eye or with the assistance of -a magnifying glass. The microscope reveals, in pure musk, white and -brownish, irregularly-formed grains, cells, oil drops, and, generally, -also fungoid threads. Genuine musk burns with a white flame and leaves -a gray ash, which should not amount to more than from 5 to 8 per cent. - -In perfumery musk is used for soap, sachet powders, and extracts. By -itself it is, however, scarcely employed, not even for the so-called -musk soaps or musk extracts. It is chiefly valued by the perfumer for -its property of rendering other perfumes used in combination with it -more durable and bringing out their scent. For scenting soaps the -musk must first be prepared. If to be used for milled soaps, it is -triturated in a mortar with clear sugar, while for cold stirred soaps, -weak potash lye of at the utmost 3° to 5° Bé. is poured over it. Weak -lye makes the odor more pronounced, while strong lye destroys it. - -_Civet_ (_zibethum_) is derived from two animals of the genus -_Viverra_. The actual civet cat (_Viverra civetta, L._) lives in the -hottest parts of Africa from the Guinea Coast and the Senegal to -Abyssinia, where it is carefully bred for its civet. The product is -also obtained from _Viverra zibetha, L._, indigenous to the Moluccas -and Philippines. The civet is secreted in a cavity between the anus -and the external genitals, and is scraped out with a spoon. It is -semi-liquid, unctuous, yellowish, becoming brown and thicker by -exposure to the air, of a bitter, disagreeable, fatty taste, and of a -peculiar, urinose, disagreeable odor, resembling that of musk which -becomes agreeable only when much diluted and mixed with other perfumes. -When ignited it burns with a bright flame, leaving behind 3 to 4 per -cent. of ash. It is insoluble in water; in spirit of wine it partially -dissolves with difficulty, and with greater ease in warm ether and in -chloroform. It should form a homogeneous, non-crumbling mass. According -to M. Boutron Chalard, it contains free ammonia, stearin, olein, mucus, -resin, a yellow coloring substance, salts, and a volatile oil, the -latter giving the odor to it. In perfumery, civet is chiefly used as an -addition to other perfumes in order to strengthen them and make them -more constant. It is also employed for perfuming fine leather articles. - -_Castor_ or _castoreum_ is a peculiar concrete substance obtained -from _Castor fiber_ or the beaver. In both sexes between the anus -and external genitals are two pear-shaped sac-like follicles (Fig. -24) united at their thin ends. The follicles contain, when fresh, a -semi-liquid substance which becomes more solid by drying. The castor -occurring in commerce is generally dried by smoke. - - [Illustration: FIG. 24.] - -In commerce two principal varieties are distinguished: Siberian or -Russian and Canadian, English or American castor, the first being the -most valuable. The length of a Siberian sac varies between 2.36 and -4.72 inches, the width between 0.98 and 2.55 inches, and the thickness -between 0.78 and 1.57 inches; it weighs from 1.76 to 8.81 ozs. One of -the sacs is generally somewhat smaller than the other. The exterior -skin of the sac is almost smooth and, in a dry state, dark brown; the -interior is dirty yellow, intermixed with a dense cellular tissue, -which envelops the castor-substance and is grown together with it. In a -dried state, the latter is dark brown, without lustre, almost friable, -of a very strong, peculiar odor, and a pungent, somewhat bitter, -aromatic taste. - -The sacs of Canadian castor are smaller than the Siberian, they being -at the utmost 3.15 inches long, 0.98 inch thick, and darker and -uneven. The interior mass is resinous, hard, with a lustrous fracture, -red-brown, and can be readily pulverized. The odor is weaker, somewhat -musty and ammoniacal, and the taste more bitter and less pungent than -that of the Siberian castor. - -Castor is much adulterated--pebbles, pieces of lead, dried blood, -etc., being frequently found in the sacs. These frauds can generally -be detected in cutting the sac open. Spurious sacs are said to be -frequently found among the genuine sacs of Canadian castor. These -spurious sacs are prepared by drying a mixture of castor, resin, -dragons' blood, etc., in the scrotum of goats. - -In perfumery, castor is now very seldom used, the perfumers preferring -musk and civet, which, certainly, give a somewhat different scent. - -_Ambergris_ is a fatty, waxy substance, often found floating on the sea -on the coasts of Arabia, Madagascar, Japan, etc. It is also found in -the cæcum of the sperm whale (_Physetus macrocephalus, Schow_), and -is supposed by some to be a morbid secretion in the urinary bladder. -According to Mr. Beale, it merely consists of the indurated fæces of -the animal, perhaps somewhat altered by disease. It has a gray-white -color, often with a black streak and a slight agreeable odor, like -that of benzoin, which becomes more pronounced on heating. When held -for some time in the hand it becomes soft and flexible. It melts at -the temperature of boiling water, and, when more strongly heated, -volatilizes in the form of a white vapor, leaving but slight traces -of ash behind. Its specific gravity is 0.8 to 0.9. It is insoluble in -water, sparingly soluble in cold spirit of wine, and more readily so -in hot spirit of wine, ether and volatile and fat oils. It is almost -completely soluble in absolute alcohol. Though ambergris crumbles -readily, it can only with difficulty be converted into coarse powder. -With the finger it can be polished like hard soda-soap. - -The principal constituent of ambergris is ambrin or ambrein, a -non-saponifiable fat, which, from a saturated alcoholic solution of -ambergris, crystallizes, after standing for some time, in the form -of verrucose, whitish or lustrous acicular crystals. According to -John, ambergris consists of 85 per cent. ambrin, 12.5 per cent. sweet -balsamic extract, further benzoic acid, sodium chloride, and 1.5 per -cent. insoluble brown residue. When distilled with water, ambergris -yields 13 per cent. of a volatile oil having an agreeable odor. A -red-hot iron wire readily penetrates ambergris, and from the hole thus -made flows an oily liquid of a strong and agreeable odor. - -On account of its high price, ambergris is frequently adulterated, the -commercial article being often nothing but an artificial mixture of -benzoin, olibanum, wax, and flour, with other substances, perfumed with -musk. Such adulterations are detected by the appearance, proportions -of solubility, nature of the fracture and the content of ash. A small -quantity of pure ambergris, exposed to heat, melts without forming -bubbles or scum. It is easily punctured with a heated needle, which, -when withdrawn, should come out clean and without anything adhering -to it, and the characteristic odor of ambergris should be immediately -evolved. The surface should be rugged, that with a smooth and uniform -surface being generally factitious. - -In perfumery, ambergris is not so much used on account of its agreeable -odor, but rather to make the perfumes more constant. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - -ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS. - - -In speaking of the volatile oils used in perfumery, two artificial -perfume-materials, artificial oils of bitter almonds and wintergreen -have already been mentioned. There can be no doubt that when the -chemical construction of volatile oils is better known, chemistry -will succeed in preparing still more such combinations, valuable for -perfumery, or in converting cheap volatile oils into more valuable -ones, as has, for instance, been done by Bouchardat and Lafont, who -have successfully converted oil of turpentine into oil of lemons. These -chemists rectified French oil of turpentine at exactly 311° to 314.6° -F., dissolved in the distillate, which amounted to 120 grammes, an -equal quantity (120 grammes) of glacial acetic acid, cooled the mixture -and then carefully added, so that the temperature never exceeded 104° -F., 88 grammes of crystallized chromic acid dissolved in a sufficient -quantity of acetic acid. Notwithstanding that the greater portion of -the oil of turpentine remained unoxidized, a thorough reaction took -place, and the product of decomposition proved to be a hydrocarbon, -boiling at from 345.2° to 352.4° F., to which Bouchardat and Lafont -have applied the term "terpilene." The properties of this hydrocarbon, -especially its boiling point, corresponded with those of oil of lemons, -its odor also resembling that of the latter, but it contained about -one-sixth cymol which it was impossible to remove. Though thus far this -artificial oil of lemons is of no importance for perfumery, it is of -interest as showing the possibility of converting one volatile oil into -another. - -The artificial musk, spoken of under "Musk," cannot be classed with the -previously-mentioned artificial perfumed-materials. The odoriferous -principle of the natural and artificial musk have nothing in common, -the odor depending not on a common chemical combination. - -Besides the artificial perfume-materials already mentioned, but a -few others are employed in perfumery, viz: _Cumarin_, _heliotropin_, -_vanillin_, and _nitrobenzol_, or _oil of mirbane_. Another series of -artificial perfume-materials, the so-called fruit ethers, have also -been recommended for perfumery purposes. Although such products are -sometimes used, their employment is not advisable, since they produce -an irritating effect upon the bronchial tubes and respiratory organs, -and frequently cause headache. - -_Cumarin._--The agreeable odor of new-mown hay is chiefly due to the -sweet-scented vernal grass (_Anthoxanthum odoratum, L._). This grass -contains an odoriferous substance, the _cumarin_. The latter is also -found in many other plants; for instance, in the tonka bean (the seeds -of _Dipterix odorata_), in the sweet woodruff (_Asperula odorata_), -and, combined with melilotic acid, in the melilot (_Melilotus -officinalis, Descr._). - -Cumarin forms small, colorless crystals of a silky lustre. It is very -hard, cracks between the teeth, shows a smooth fracture, and sinks in -water. It has a very agreeable aromatic odor, which, on rubbing the -substance with the fingers, becomes like that of oil of bitter almonds, -and has a bitter, warm, and pungent taste. When pure it melts at 152.6° -F., but when containing fat, like that separated from tonka beans, at -from 104° to 122° F. Its boiling point lies at 554° F.; it volatilizes, -however, at far lower temperatures, diffusing an odor resembling that -of oil of bitter almonds, and sublimating in white needles. It is -soluble in alcohol, ether, acetic acid, fat, and volatile oils. Of cold -water (59° F.) 400 parts are, according to Buchner, required for its -solution, but of boiling water only 45 parts. - -Tonka beans are the ripe seeds of _Dipterix odorata_. They are much -used in perfumery on account of their content of cumarin, and formerly -constituted the initial point for its manufacture. In commerce two -varieties are distinguished, viz., _Dutch tonka beans_, derived from -_Dipterix odorata, Willd._, indigenous to the forests of Guiana, -and _English tonka beans_, from _Dipterix oppositifolia, Willd._, -indigenous to Cayenne. - -The Dutch tonka bean is 1.18 to 1.57 inches long, 0.39 to O.59 inch -wide, and O.27 to O.43 inch thick. It is generally slightly curved, -provided under the point with the hilum, and covered with a thin, -fragile, brown-black or black skin of a fatty lustre, upon which small -crystals of cumarin are generally found, so that it appears coated, -especially in the wrinkles, with a whitish dust. The kernel consists -of two yellow-brownish oleiferous catyledons, between which layers of -cumarin are generally found. The odor is agreeable, resembling that of -melilot, and the taste aromatic bitter. Dutch tonka beans contain fat, -sugar, malic acid, and malate of lime; further, starch, gum, and 1 to -5 per cent. of cumarin (C_{9}H_{6}O_{2}). The English tonka beans are -smaller, white-yellowish inside, nearly black outside, and of inferior -quality to the Dutch beans. - -From tonka beans, cumarin may be obtained by two different methods. -One method consists in repeatedly extracting the bruised beans with -spirit of wine, distilling the latter off from the extract, and mixing -the residue with cold water, whereby cumarin contaminated with fat -is precipitated. To remove the fat, bring the whole to the boiling -point, filter the hot solution through a moist filter upon which the -fat is retained, and allow to cool, whereby the greater portion of the -cumarin crystallizes out; the remaining small portion is obtained by -evaporating the mother-lye. - -According to the other method, the bruised tonka beans are distilled -with water. After 24 hours the greater portion of the cumarin separates -in a crystalline form. The residue remaining in solution can be -withdrawn from the water by shaking with petroleum-ether and subsequent -evaporation of the solvent. From one pound of good tonka beans, up to 4 -drachms of cumarin may be obtained. - -Cumarin is sometimes also obtained by purifying by recrystallization of -the débris found in the original boxes of tonka beans, which chiefly -consists of cumarin. - -Perkin has recently succeeded in artificially preparing cumarin from -salicylic acid. By boiling the sodium salt of the latter in acetic -anhydride for a few minutes and then pouring into water, an oil-like -body is separated, whilst sodium acetate passes into solution. The -former is a mixture of acetic anhydride, salicylic acid and cumarin; -in distilling, the latter passes over last (at 554° F.), and congeals -in the receiver to a crystalline mass. - -Cumarin is now synthetically prepared by several firms, that brought -into the market by Schimmel & Co., of Leipsic, especially being of -excellent quality. Although artificial cumarin is considerably lower -in price than that obtained from tonka beans, most perfumers still -prefer the extract from tonka beans prepared by themselves. There is, -however, no good reason for this, since a change in the respective -receipts for perfumes presents no difficulties, 8.46 drachms of cumarin -corresponding to 2.2 lbs. of best tonka beans. - -_Heliotropin_ or _piperonal_ is of great importance in the manufacture -of perfumes. It forms small, colorless prismatic crystals, which have -an agreeable odor of héliotrope. Upon the tongue heliotropin produces -the same sensation as oil of peppermint under the same conditions, the -sensation being, however, more lasting. It melts at about 104° F., and -volatilizes at a higher temperature without leaving a residue. It is -soluble in alcohol and ether, and insoluble in cold water; in hot water -it melts to an oily liquid which floats upon the water. - -Exposed to the action of heat and air, heliotropin acquires an uncomely -appearance, balls together and, under very unfavorable circumstances, -turns brown. It is then entirely decomposed and useless, and, hence, -should be kept in summer in as cool a place as possible. A temperature -of 95° F. has already an injurious effect upon the perfume, and it is -best not to buy it at all in the hot summer months. To preserve the -perfume in its entire freshness, it is advisable for consumers in hot -climates to at once dissolve the heliotropin in alcohol and to keep the -solution in a cool place. - -Pepper serves as the initial point for heliotropin or piperonal, the -white variety being the best for the purpose. To obtain piperine, -contained in varying qualities (7 to 9 per cent.) in pepper, the -latter is repeatedly extracted with boiling alcohol. The extract is -then evaporated to one-third its volume, or the greater portion of the -alcohol is distilled off, and the resinous mass, obtained after the -addition of water, is repeatedly washed in water with the addition of a -small quantity of potash or soda lye, dissolved in alcohol and purified -by repeated recrystallization. To convert the white-yellow piperine -thus obtained into potassium piperate it is, together with equal -parts of potassium hydroxide and 5 to 6 parts of alcohol, kept gently -boiling for 24 hours in a well-closed flask provided with an ascending -Liebig cooler. A capacious flask should be used, as the mass pounds -quite vigorously. After cooling, the precipitate, which is obtained -in yellowish, lustrous lamina, is separated through a filter from the -dark-brown mother-lye, washed with cold alcohol and several times -recrystallized from hot water. A further discoloration may be effected -by the addition of animal charcoal. - -The potassium piperate thus obtained forms nearly colorless prisms in -verucose groups, which, however, turn yellow when exposed to light. -By boiling the alcoholic mother-lye with ⅓ of the previously used -potash-lye, further small quantities of potassium piperate may be -obtained. - -To obtain piperonal from the potassium piperate, dissolve 1 part of -the latter in 40 to 50 parts of hot water, and then slowly introduce, -with constant stirring, a solution of 2 parts potassium permanganate -in 50 parts of water. This precaution is absolutely necessary, as -otherwise the piperonal formed would be partially further oxidized and -lost. The paste-like mass formed is passed, while still hot, through a -straining cloth, and the residue repeatedly washed with boiling water -until it shows nothing more of the characteristic odor of héliotrope. -The wash-waters are combined with the first filtrate, and subjected to -distillation over a free fire. - -The first distillates are richest in piperonal, it generally separating -already in the cooler. The fractionally caught distillate is allowed -to stand one or two days in as cool a place as possible, whereby the -greater portion of the piperonal separates in a crystalline form or in -fine lamina. To obtain the piperonal still remaining dissolved in the -water, the mother-lye, after the separation of the crystals through a -filter, may be repeatedly agitated with ether, whereby the piperonal -dissolves in the ether. The latter is carefully distilled off at as -low a temperature as possible (104° to 122° F.) in the water-bath or -allowed naturally to evaporate. - -_Vanillin._--Vanilla is the not entirely ripe, pod-like, capsular -fruit (wrongly called pod), of a tropical orchid (_Vanilla planifolia, -Andrews_), which is cultivated in Mexico, the West Indies, and South -America. It is extensively used for flavoring, and its odoriferous -substance is highly valued in perfumery. The cross-section of the -capsule is thick and fleshy, filled with very small, black, lustrous -seeds stuck together by a gummy balsam with which they are coated. The -capsule has a sourish taste and has no value, the seeds, or rather -the balsam enveloping the seeds, being the substance on which the -odor and taste of vanilla depend. When the vanilla fruit becomes ripe, -the capsule opens and empties its content of seeds in the form of a -balsam-like mass. - -The lustrous black-brown surface of vanilla is frequently coated with -white, delicate crystals, which were formerly taken for benzoic acid. -Bley and Vee first recognized them as a peculiar substance, which was -further examined by Gobley and Stokkebye. This substance, to which -Gobley applied the term _vanillin_, is the chief odoriferous substance -of vanilla. It is deposited upon the vanilla-crystals, when the latter -are densely and closely packed together and for some time exposed to -a heat of about 77° F. Of vanillin, vanilla contains 1.5 to 2.75 per -cent.; the Mexican variety containing 1.69 to 1.32 per cent., the -Bourbon No. I, 2.48 to 1.91 per cent., Bourbon No. II, 1.55 to 0.75 per -cent., and the Java, 2.75 to 1.56 per cent. It is singular, that the -highly valued Mexican vanilla has, generally speaking, a lower content -of vanillin than the other varieties. - -At present, vanillin is prepared artificially. Tiemann and Harmann -first showed that by the oxidation of coniferin, a glucoside occurring -in the cambial sap of the _Coniferæ_, a product, perfectly identical -with the vanillin prepared from vanilla, is obtained. The coniferin -is obtained by barking the pine or silver fir, scraping together the -sap under the bark together with a portion of the liber and pouring -it into a vessel. The sap is then pressed off, boiled to separate -the albumin, filtered, evaporated to one-fifth its volume, and set -aside to crystallize. One hundred quarts of sap are said to yield -from 1 to 2 pounds of coniferin-crystals. By now allowing an aqueous -coniferin-solution to run into a heated mixture of 10 parts potassium -bichromate, 15 parts concentrated sulphuric acid, and 80 parts water, -and heating for 3 hours in a flask with back-flow cooler, a liquid -is obtained from which ether takes up a yellow oil. After treating -the latter with animal charcoal, dissolving in ether and evaporating -the latter, there remain colorless, acicular crystals of the odor and -taste of vanilla. These crystals consist of vanillin contaminated with -some vanillic acid. To separate the latter, purify with acid sodium -sulphite and recrystallize. After this operation, vanillin represents a -nearly white crystalline powder which melts at from 176° to 177.8° F. -In this form it is brought into commerce as a complete substitute for -vanilla, 5.64 drachms of it corresponding to about 1 pound of vanilla. -A medium-sized pine tree is said to yield vanillin of the value of 80 -marks ($19.20). - -Vanillin may also be prepared by oxidation from eugenol. Oil of cloves -is diluted with three times its volume of ether and agitated with -weak caustic potash solution to fix the eugenol on the potash. By -acidulating the alkaline solution and shaking with ether, the eugenol -is collected. After distilling off the ether, the eugenol is converted -with acetic anhydride into aceteugol, and the latter oxidized with -dilute, moderately-warmed potassium permanganate solution. The filtrate -is made slightly alkaline, concentrated, then compounded with acid and -the vanillin extracted with ether. - -Vanillin (C_{8}H_{8}O_{3}) forms small colorless prisms of a strong -vanilla odor, a warm, vanilla taste, and an acid reaction. It is -readily soluble in hot water, alcohol, ether, chloroform, fat and -volatile oils, as well as in solutions of caustic alkalies and alkaline -carbonates. It melts when heated to from 176° to 177.8° F.; at a higher -temperature it sublimates without leaving a residue. - -According to a notice published in the "Deutsch-Amerikanischen -Apotheker Zeitung," vanillin adulterated with benzoic acid has occurred -in the United States. A sample subjected to examination is said to -have been nothing but benzoic acid perfumed with vanillin. Such an -adulteration can be detected with the microscope, since vanillin -crystallizes in acicular crystals, and benzoic acid in lamina, which -can be readily recognized. Pure vanillin melts at 176° F., while -the melting points of such mixtures are considerably higher, it -being in one case at 249° F. By extracting such mixture with thin -sodium carbonate solution, benzoic acid passes into solution. After -neutralizing with hydrochloric acid, the filtrate yields with ferric -chloride a fawn-brown precipitate of ferric benzoate, and on adding -hydrochloric acid in excess, the benzoic acid, which dissolves -with great difficulty in cold water, is precipitated. By treating -the latter, or the ferric benzoate, with dilute sulphuric acid and -magnesium, the benzoic acid is reduced to benzaldehyde, which is -recognized by its characteristic odor of oil of bitter almonds. - -_Nitrobenzol_ is obtained by treating benzol, or a mixture of it, -with toluol and their higher homologues, with strong nitric acid, -or a mixture of nitric and sulphuric acids, washing the product of -reaction with water and soda, caustic soda or ammonia, expelling the -unaltered hydrocarbons with steam and rectifying the residue. Three -varieties distinguished by their boiling points and odor occur in -commerce. The nitrobenzol or oil of mirbane (_essence de mirbane_) is -the so-called _light nitrobenzol_, which boils at from 401° to 415° F. -The _heavier_ varieties boil at a higher temperature and have a more or -less disagreeable odor; they are used in the manufacture of aniline and -aniline colors. - -Pure oil of mirbane is pale yellow, the finest qualities being -colorless and almost as clear as water. It has an agreeable odor -resembling that of oil of bitter almonds, a specific gravity of 1.186 -to 1.2 = 25° Bé., and congeals at 37.4° F. to a crystalline mass. It is -scarcely soluble in water, sparingly so in alcohol and with difficulty -in watery spirit of wine; it is miscible in all proportions with ether, -benzine, volatile oils, and most fat oils. - -Oil of mirbane is largely manufactured in England, but the German -product is now generally preferred, it being purer and does not impart -to soap perfumed with it a yellowish tinge. The finest oil of mirbane -is prepared from pure crystallizable benzol, and again purified -by washing with potassium bichromate and sulphuric acid, and by -rectification with steam. - -Pure nitrobenzol suffers no change by boiling with soda lye, while the -poorly rectified product colors the lye yellow or brown. - -Nitrobenzol is frequently adulterated with spirit of wine, which is -recognized by shaking the oil with fat oil of almonds; in the presence -of spirit of wine a turbid mixture is formed. By shaking nitrobenzol -containing spirit of wine with an equal volume of water in a graduated -cylinder, its volume decreases. - -Oil of mirbane is much used for perfuming soaps, but even the finest -quality of it cannot replace oil of bitter almonds for fine soaps -and perfumery. Great care has to be exercised in storing, as well -as in working, nitrobenzol, it igniting very readily, and it is -also poisonous. Even the vapors, when inhaled for some time, may -produce symptoms of poisoning, which consist in the skin acquiring a -leaden color, and heavy feelings in the limbs with cold extremities, -especially the hands and feet. - - -FRUIT ETHERS. At the London Exhibition, in 1851, various products -called apple oil, pear oil, pine-apple oil, etc., were shown. They were -examined by A. W. Hofmann, and found to consist of solutions of certain -ethers in alcohol. Since then the manufacture has greatly increased and -large quantities are now brought into commerce under the name of _fruit -ethers_ or _fruit essences_. - -Fruit ethers are fluids possessing an agreeable, refreshing odor -closely resembling that of some fruits. For this reason they are -used in confectionery, in the manufacture of liqueurs and also as -a substitute for volatile oils, in the manufacture of perfumery. -Chemically, fruit ethers are combinations of an organic acid--acetic, -butyric, valerianic, etc.--with a so-called alcohol radicle, such as -ethyl and amyl. The preparation of fruit ethers being connected with -many difficulties, is seldom attempted by perfumers, especially as -products of an excellent quality can at a low rate be procured from -chemical laboratories making a specialty of their manufacture. However, -for the sake of completeness, a brief description of the fabrication of -the principal ethers used in their preparation shall here be given. - -_Acetic amyl ether_ or _amyl acetate_, C_{5}H_{11}O.C_{2}H_{3}O, is -prepared by mixing 1 part of amyl alcohol with 1 part of concentrated -sulphuric acid, and distilling the mixture with 2 parts of potassium -acetate. The distillate is washed with water, to which some carbonate -of soda has been added, and then rectified over magnesia. It forms a -colorless liquid of an agreeable fruity odor. It boils, according to -Kopp, at 280° F. and, at 59° F., its specific gravity is 0.8692. - -For use in perfumery, the ether is best prepared, according to -Fehling's directions, by heating for some time at a temperature of 212° -F. 1 part of glacial acetic acid with ½ part of sulphuric acid and -one part of amyl alcohol. By then adding water the ether is separated. -By this process distillation is avoided. - -_Acetic ethyl ether_ or _ethyl acetate_, C_{2}H_{3}O.O.C_{2}H_{5}. -Acetic ether is formed by the decomposition of sodium acetate by ethyl -sulphuric acid:-- - - SO_{2} {OC_{2}H_{5} + C_{2}H_{3}O.ONa = - {OH - └----┬-----┘ └------┬------┘ - Ethyl sulphuric Sodium acetate. - acid. - - SO_{2} {ONa + C_{2}H_{3}O.OC_{2}H_{5} - {OH - └--┬--┘ └---------┬----------┘ - Acid sodium Acetic ether. - sulphate. - -One molecule of sulphuric acid or 98 parts is mixed with one molecule -of alcohol or 46 parts, or with 1 molecule of alcohol of 90 per -cent. which contains 85.75 per cent. of absolute alcohol, hence -with 53.6 parts of alcohol, and distilled with 1 molecule or 82 -parts of anhydrous sodium acetate. Since commercial sulphuric acid -always contains 5 or 6 per cent. of water, this has to be taken into -consideration, and 105 to 106 parts of it have to be used in order -to decompose the entire quantity of sodium acetate. The crude sodium -acetate found in commerce may be used. It is nearly white and at the -utmost contaminated by traces of sulphuric acid and chlorine, which in -this case are not injurious. The crystallized salt is heated in an iron -kettle whereby it melts in its water of crystallization. With constant -stirring the water is then completely evaporated until an entirely -dry mass of salt remains behind. The latter may be quite strongly -heated without fear of destroying the acetic acid. The dried salt is -immediately powdered, passed through a medium fine sieve and kept for -use in well-closed vessels. - -On a large scale the distillation of the ether may be effected in an -iron kettle, which is provided with a well-fitting lid and connected -by a copper head with a cooling apparatus--a worm lying in cold water. -Bring into the kettle the required quantity of concentrated sulphuric -acid, add, with vigorous stirring, the alcohol and allow the mixture to -rest for 24 hours. Then throw the dry sodium acetate into the mixture, -mix it thoroughly, by stirring, with the ethyl sulphuric acid, and, -after luting all the joints of the apparatus, heat at first moderately. -Distillation proceeds quietly and uniformly, the fire being regulated -according to how the ether runs off from the worm. Such uniform -distillation is, however, only attained by the use of the sodium -acetate in the form of powder, and thoroughly mixing it with the acid. -If large pieces of the salt are present or the powdered salt balls -together, the formation of ether sometimes takes place so suddenly -that the vapors cannot condense in the cooling apparatus, but escape -violently, or if they cannot escape rapidly from the condenser, may -even burst the apparatus. The reason for this is that the larger pieces -float in the superheated acid without being saturated by it, and, when -they suddenly collapse, form a mass of ether-vapors. - -Distillation is continued until that which at last passes over is not -inflammable. With the above-mentioned proportions 88 parts of acetic -ether are formed, but as some water always passes over, distillation -need not be interrupted until the receiver contains at least 90 parts -of crude ether. - -The crude ether always contains more or less water, some alcohol, -and a small quantity of free acetic acid. With the above-mentioned -proportions, the content of alcohol can, however, be only very small. -To neutralize the acetic acid, add some burnt magnesia or shake with -carbonate of soda solution until the acid reaction disappears. For the -absorption of the water and alcohol, add as much sharply dried (not -fused) calcium chloride as the fluid will dissolve, and then let it -stand with an excess of the salt for one day. The calcium chloride -combines with the water and alcohol and separates as a heavy layer -beneath the ether. The latter is decanted off and brought into a -rectifying vessel--a copper still, heated by steam, and provided with a -cooling pipe. The ether is distilled off at a moderate heat, the last -portion, about 1/10, being caught in a special receiver, to be again -rectified at the next operation. - -According to Grossschopf, 40 lbs. of pulverized anhydrous sodium -acetate, together with a cooled mixture of 46 lbs. of concentrated -sulphuric acid and 37 lbs. of 95 per cent. alcohol, free from fusel -oil, are distilled in a copper still heated by steam. Distillation -is continued with constant stirring by means of an apparatus in the -still, until no more fluid smelling and tasting of acetic ether passes -over. The crude distillate, amounting to 55 or 56 lbs., is brought into -bottles which are filled ⅔ full. The bottles are then filled up with -water and potassium carbonate is added until the fluid, after shaking, -shows no acid reaction. The aqueous fluid beneath the ether is then -drawn off by means of a siphon, and the ether several times washed by -shaking with water and allowing to settle. Since the wash-water absorbs -a quite considerable quantity of ether, it is collected and subjected -to rectification, whereby an alcoholic acetic ether is obtained. The -ether, being freed from acetic acid and alcohol by neutralization and -washing, is brought in contact with fused calcium chloride to free it -from water, and finally rectified over magnesia. In this manner 36 to -37 lbs. of pure acetic ether are obtained. - -Acetic ether is a clear, colorless fluid of a pleasant, etheral odor. -It boils at 170.6° F., and at 59° F. its specific gravity is 0.9068. -Pure acetic ether dissolves in 11 to 12 parts of water; a content of -alcohol or the addition of water increases its solubility. Hence, its -solubility in water is a criterion of its purity. - -_Benzoic ether_ or _ethyl benzoate_, C_{7}H_{5}O.OC_{2}H_{5}, is most -readily prepared by mixing 4 parts of alcohol, 2 parts of crystallized -benzoic acid, and 1 part fuming hydrochloric acid, and for some time -heating the mixture in a flask. The benzoic acid is thereby gradually -and completely converted into ether. The fluid is mixed with water, -whereby the ether is completely separated. It is several times washed -with carbonate of soda solution, and, for the purpose of withdrawing -the last trace of free acid, distilled over lead oxide. It forms a -colorless oil of an aromatic odor, specific gravity 1.0502, and boils -at 412° F. In cold water it is insoluble. However, like all varieties -of ether, it dissolves readily in alcohol and ether. - -_Butyric ethyl ether_ or _ethyl butyrate_, C_{4}H_{7}O.OC_{2}H_{5}. The -preparation of this ether must be preceded by that of butyric acid. -The latter is obtained, according to Bensch, by dissolving 6 lbs. of -cane sugar and 8 drachms of tartaric acid in 13 quarts of hot water, -allowing the liquid to stand a few days and then adding 7 ozs. of old -rotten cheese, which has been stirred up in 4 quarts of skimmed sour -milk and 3 lbs. of finely pulverized chalk. The mixture must be kept -at a uniform temperature of from 86° to 95° F. for some weeks, from -time to time mixing it by stirring, and replacing the water lost by -evaporation. - -By the action of a ferment the sugar is first converted into lactic -acid. In 10 to 12 days the entire mass congeals to a paste of calcium -lactate. By now allowing fermentation to proceed without interruption, -it gradually enters another stage; gas bubbles consisting of carbonic -acid and hydrogen rise up, until in the course of 5 or 6 weeks the -process is finished. This is recognized by the fluid becoming quiet, -no more gas being evolved. The fluid then contains a solution of -calcium lactate, which is converted into the corresponding sodium salt -by the addition of 8 lbs. of crystallized soda. It is then filtered -and concentrated by evaporation to 5 quarts. By adding 5½ lbs. of -sulphuric acid, diluted with an equal volume of water, butyric acid is -separated as a dark-colored oily mass. - -The crude butyric acid thus obtained and freed from water by shaking -with calcium chloride, is a mixture of acetic, butyric, and capric -acids, but does not contain propionic and valerianic acids. To obtain -from it pure butyric acid, fractional distillation is required. For -manufacturing on a large scale, a copper distilling apparatus with -silver head and silver cooling pipe is used, the bulb of a thermometer -being placed in the head. In the first rectification, the receiver -is changed after the thermometer has risen to 311° F.; the portion -passing over between 311° and 329° F. is caught up by itself, and -the receiver being again changed, distillation is continued until -finished. The first distillate contains mostly acetic acid, besides -a small quantity of butyric acid, the second the greater portion of -the butyric acid besides a little acetic and capric acids, while the -third consists chiefly of capric acid. For preparing butyric ether for -technical purposes, the fraction passing over between 311° and 329° -F. is sufficiently pure. To obtain chemically pure butyric acid, the -rectification of the portion passing over between 311° and 329° F. is -in the same manner repeated, until finally a product with a constant -boiling point at 324.2° F. is obtained. - -Butyric acid fermentation proceeds more rapidly by using, instead of -rotten cheese, putrefying meat, and in place of sugar, starch paste -or mashed boiled potatoes, 1 part of meat to 4 parts of starch or a -corresponding quantity of potatoes being employed. The same products -are formed as in the preceding process, but much more rapidly, -fermentation being finished, according to Schubert, in 5 to 6 days. - -Butyric acid, C_{4}H_{7}O.OH, or C_{3}H_{7}COOH, is a liquid of a very -sour taste and odor, and at an intense cold congeals to a crystalline -mass which melts at 32° F. In a pure state it boils at 324.2° F. It is -soluble in water, but separates again if soluble salts are added to -this solution. Its specific gravity, after being completely freed from -water, is 0.974. - -Besides the normal butyric acid, there is known another one called -_isobutyric' acid_ or _dimethyl acetic acid_. It is distinguished from -the normal acid by being less soluble in water and by its boiling -point, which lies at 309.2° F. It occurs in St. John's bread or carob, -in the volatile oil from _Arnica montana_ and in croton oil. - -_Butyric ether_ is formed by mixing 2 parts of butyric acid with 2 -parts of alcohol and 1 part of sulphuric acid. The fluid is heated to -176° F., and, after being for several hours kept at that temperature, -is poured into cold water, whereby the ether separates as an oily -fluid. It is then separated from the aqueous solution, washed with -water to which some chalk has been added for the neutralization of the -free acid, and finally the water is withdrawn from the ether by, for -several days, leaving it in contact with calcium chloride. To obtain -it entirely pure, it is only necessary to distil it once. It forms a -clear, very mobile fluid of a pine-apple odor, and a specific gravity -of 0.900. It boils at 249.8° F. - -Commercial butyric ether, large quantities of which are used for the -preparation of the so-called _pine-apple ether_ or _essence_, is seldom -pure, it being generally obtained from simply rectified butyric acid. -According to another method, which is, however, not as profitable, -it is obtained by distilling butter-soap with alcohol and sulphuric -acid. For this purpose, bring 20 pounds of butter-soap, cut up in -small pieces, into a distilling apparatus, pour over it 10 pounds of -90 per cent. alcohol and heat moderately until the soap is dissolved. -Since a portion of the alcohol evaporates thereby, add 10 pounds more -of alcohol and then 20 pounds of sulphuric acid. On further heating, -a fluid of a very agreeable odor distils over, which is an alcoholic -solution of the ethers of the volatile acids found in butter. Towards -the end of the operation, in consequence of the further progress of -decomposition, a development of sulphurous acid generally takes place. -This is removed from the distillate by allowing it to remain for -several days in contact with finely-pulverized pyrolusite (peroxide -of manganese) and rectifying over burnt magnesia. In the first -distillation, the heavy volatile acids of the butter remain behind; -they are freed from the excess of sulphuric acid and the sulphate of -sodium or potassium by washing with hot water, and can be utilized in -the manufacture of soap. - -The butyric ether obtained from butter-soap is far from being pure -butyric ether, it containing, besides it, a mixture of various kinds of -ether derived from the volatile acids--caproic, capric, and caprylic -acids. However, these varieties of ether possess similar properties -to that of butyric acid; in alcoholic solutions their taste and odor -are nearly alike, and hence can be employed in this mixture for the -preparation of essences of an agreeable odor and taste. - -A suitable material for the preparation of butyric ether is also the -St. John's bread or carob, the pods of _Silequa dulcis_. Redtenbacher -established in them the occurrence of about 2 per cent. butyric acid, -which Gruenzweig later on proved to be isobutyric acid. Besides butyric -acid and other volatile acids, St. John's bread contains about 40 per -cent. of fermentable varieties of sugar, which can be utilized after -their conversion to butyric acid. For this purpose Stinde has proposed -the following process: Convert the pods together with the seeds to a -coarse powder; bring 100 lbs. of this powder into a capacious barrel -placed in a warm place, and pour sufficient water of 82.5° F. over it, -to form a thin paste; after 4 to 5 days add 24 lbs. of whiting and -await fermentation. The paste, which gradually becomes thicker, is from -time to time stirred, and, if necessary, a small quantity of lukewarm -water added. In summer fermentation is finished in six weeks, after -which the preparation of the ether is proceeded with. - -For this purpose bring the paste into a still provided with a steam -jacket; the evening before mix 36 lbs. of concentrated sulphuric acid -with 60 lbs. of alcohol of 95 per cent., and add the mixture to the -paste in the still; then lute the joints of the distilling apparatus, -and quickly introduce steam. Distillation soon commences, and, when -once introduced, is continued with a moderate admission of steam. - -The first pound of the distillate is caught by itself, and, after -changing the receiver, distillation is continued until but little -passes over, even with an increased admission of steam. Thus -an abundant yield of alcoholic butyric ether is obtained. When -distillation is finished 20 lbs. more of alcohol may be brought into -the still; the distillate obtained thereby being still rich in butyric -ether. - -The St. John's bread used should be of the best quality, free from -worms and mould, as otherwise the ether would not possess the pure, -agreeable odor characteristic of butyric ether. - -_Formic ethyl ether_, or _ethyl formate_, CHO.OC_{2}H_{5}.--This ether -is also much manufactured for the preparation of the so-called essences -which are employed for the purpose of imitating the odor of plants, -fruits, etc. It is formed by the action of formic acid upon alcohol, or -by bringing ethyl sulphuric acid, or a mixture of alcohol and sulphuric -acid, in contact with formates, or finally by bringing formic acid at -the moment of its formation in contact with alcohol. - -The most simple process is that recommended by Lorin:-- - -Into a capacious distilling apparatus connected with the cooling pipe, -so that the distillate constantly flows back, bring 1 part, by weight, -of glycerin of the consistency of syrup, add ¼ of its weight of -crystallized oxalic acid and the same quantity of alcohol of 90 to 95 -per cent. With moderate heating a vigorous development of gas soon -takes place. The oxalic acid in contact with the glycerin splits into -formic acid and carbonic acid, according to the following equation:-- - - {COOH = CHO.OH + CO_{2}. - {COOH - └--┬--┘ └----┬----┘ └--┬--┘ - Oxalic acid. Formic acid. Carbonic acid. - -The glycerine does not undergo alteration thereby. The nascent formic -acid converts the alcohol present into formic ether, water being -separated. When, after continued heating, the development of carbonic -acid abates, add the same quantities of oxalic acid and alcohol to -the contents of the still, heat again until but little carbonic acid -is evolved, and then add, twice in succession, the same quantities of -oxalic acid and alcohol as before, until finally as much oxalic acid is -consumed as glycerin has been employed. When the evolution of carbonic -acid ceases, the receiver is reversed and the ether distilled off. The -glycerin remaining behind is again concentrated to the consistency of -syrup, and may be re-used. - -The distillate is freed from free acid by the addition of magnesia, and -the alcohol and water are separated by shaking with calcium chloride, -after which the pure ether is obtained by rectification. - -Formic ether is colorless, thinly-fluid, of a pleasant smell, specific -gravity 0.945, boiling point 130° F., soluble in cold water, and -miscible in every proportion with alcohol and ether. - -_Nitrous ether_, or _ethyl nitrite_, C_{2}H_{5}.ONO.--In a pure state -this ether is best prepared according to the method given by E. Kopp. -It consists in bringing equal volumes of alcohol and ordinary nitric -acid together with copper filings into a distilling apparatus, which -is so arranged that the vapors first pass through a flask filled with -water of 77° F., then through a calcium chloride tube, and are finally -condensed in a receiver surrounded by snow and common salt. The nitric -acid is first decomposed by the copper, nitrous acid being thereby -developed, which is so transposed that its radicle NO occupies the -position of the typical hydrogen in the alcohol, while the rest of the -acid forms water with the hydrogen of the alcohol. By the reaction such -a quantity of heat is liberated that the process requires assistance by -external heating only towards the end of the operation. In the receiver -is then a pale yellow fluid having the taste and odor of apples and, at -59° F., a specific gravity of 0.947. According to Liebig, the boiling -point of nitrous ether lies at 61.5° F.; hence it can be condensed only -by careful cooling, and has to be kept in glass tubes fused together. -In water it is but sparingly soluble, but readily so in alcohol. By the -addition of water it is separated from the alcoholic solution. - -Mohr has modified Kopp's method as follows: Mix alcohol of 0.833 -specific gravity, water, and nitric acid of 1.200 specific gravity, -each 24 parts and add 4 parts of copper filings. Of this mixture draw -off 24 parts of distillate, mix the latter with litmus tincture and -neutralize the free acid by adding, drop by drop, solution of caustic -potash or soda until the litmus tincture becomes blue. Rectify the -distillate and catch of it 8 parts. Compound the latter with 16 parts -alcohol of 0.833 specific gravity, whereby the product is made equal to -the quantity of alcohol originally used. The product is kept in glasses -holding from 2 to 3 ozs. each. This alcoholic nitrous ether is of a -yellow color, very strong and has a pure odor. - -In England and America, nitrous ether is much used for aromatizing -whiskies and for other purposes. According to Stinde[9] it is prepared -on a large scale as follows:-- - -A stone-ware flask of at least 120 lbs. capacity, such as is used for -the preparation of chlorine, is so placed upon a tripod in a sheet-iron -cylinder that the neck projects over the edge of the cylinder. The -space between the flask and the walls of the cylinder is completely -filled with mats or coarse pack-cloth. A steam-pipe enters the lower -part of the cylinder, while a cock placed on the bottom of the cylinder -serves for discharging the condensed water. The cylinder is closed by -a sheet-iron cover provided in the centre with a hole through which -passes the neck of the flask. The flask is filled with 60 lbs of 90 per -cent. alcohol free from fusel oil, to which, in small portions, 15 lbs. -of crude nitric acid of 36° Bé. are added. - - [9] Dingler's Polyt. Journ., 184, 367. - -The neck of the flask is provided with an exactly-fitting tube of pure -tin. The tube is bent twice at a right angle, and one end is provided -with an annular piece to prevent it from slipping too far into the -interior of the flask. The joints between the tube and the neck of the -flask are luted with a stiff paste of flaxseed meal, a wet strip of -linen being, for greater security, wrapped over the cement. The other -end of the tin-tube, which here occupies the place of a still-head, -is in the same manner connected with a long tin-worm lying in a large -cooling vat. - -Everything being prepared, but little steam is at first introduced -into the iron cylinder in order to slowly warm the apparatus. When -this is done the admission of steam is gradually increased. The mats -or pack-cloth placed between the walls of the cylinder and the flask -prevent the latter from bursting, which otherwise might readily happen. -Distillation commences in about ten minutes. The admission of steam -is then moderated, care being had that the ether passes over in an -uninterrupted stream of the thickness of a goose-quill. - -When, with the admission of the same amount of steam, the distillate -commences to run drop by drop, the steam-cock is closed and the -operation interrupted, this being the case in about six to seven hours. - -The next day the flask--without removing the residue--is charged in -the same manner. However, the third day only 30 pounds of alcohol are -poured in. - -The combined distillates come into a copper still with double walls, -between which steam can be admitted, and are neutralized with dry -calcium hydrate. The cooling pipe connected with the still consists of -tin, and is provided with a beak dipping into a flask filled half-full -with 4 pounds of alcohol. A slight current of steam suffices for -distillation. The first distillate is dark yellow, and contains large -quantities of aldehyde. Notwithstanding careful cooling, the vapors can -be but incompletely condensed, and their inhalation has to be carefully -avoided, they producing stupor and headache as well as inflammation of -the eyes. When the distillate is colorless and shows no reaction with -litmus paper, the receiver is removed and replaced by a large glass -balloon in which the entire distillate is collected. Distillation must -be quickly finished, as otherwise colored ether is obtained. - -_Valerianic amyl ether_ or _amyl valerate_, C_{5}H_{11}O.C_{5}H_{9}O. - -This ether is formed by treating amyl alcohol with chromic acid. -However, besides the ether a large quantity of valerianic acid is also -formed, which has to be converted by itself into ether. - -To prepare the ether bring 5½ parts of powdered potassium dichromate -together with 5 parts of water into a distilling apparatus and very -gradually add a mixture of 1 part amyl alcohol and 5 parts concentrated -sulphuric acid. The fluid becomes so strongly heated that it almost -boils. When reaction is finished, heat and distil off the rest. The -distillate consists of two layers; the lower one being an aqueous -solution of valerianic acid and the upper one a mixture of valerianic -acid and amyl valerate. To separate both, add concentrated carbonate of -soda solution until all the free acid is neutralized. The oily liquid -separating thereby is the ether. It is separated from the valerianate -of sodium, the latter evaporated to a small volume, and, after cooling, -sufficient sulphuric acid to fix the entire quantity of the soda is -added. The valerianic acid is thereby separated, and floats upon the -solution of the sodium sulphate. It is separated from the latter, and -1¼ parts of it are added to a mixture of ¾ part of amyl alcohol and 1 -part sulphuric acid and heated to 212° F. After the addition of water, -the apple-ether separates and only requires washing with water and some -sodium carbonate to yield a pure product. - -The separation of the valerianic acid can, however, be readily avoided. -Evaporate the neutral solution of the valerianate of soda to dryness in -the water-bath, weigh off 1 molecule, or 124 parts, and gently heat it -with a mixture of 1 molecule or 98 parts of sulphuric acid (on account -of the content of water in the commercial acid, 105 parts of it will -have to be taken) and 1 molecule or 88 parts of amyl alcohol. - -The ether thus obtained is a fluid, which, in a concentrated state, -does not possess an agreeable odor, but when mixed with 10 parts of -alcohol imparts to the latter an odor resembling that of apples. It -boils at from 370° to 374° F., and at 64° F. has a specific gravity of -0.8793. - -_Valerianic ethyl ether_ closely resembles the amyl ether, and, like -it, is prepared from valerianate of sodium, ordinary alcohol, and -sulphuric acid. - -_Apple ether_ essentially consists of valeric amyl ether, of which 1 -part is dissolved in 6 to 10 parts of strong alcohol. - -_Apricot ether_ is butyric ether with some amyl alcohol. - -_Cherry ether_ is acetic ether with benzoic ether. - -_Pear ether_ contains acetic amyl ether. - -_Pineapple ether_ is butyric ether. - -_Strawberry ether_ is acetic ether with acetic amyl ether and butyric -ether. - -The ethers are dissolved in various proportions in alcohol, according -to the intensity of the odor which it is desired to obtain. The -aroma of most of them is generally increased by a slight addition of -chloroform. - -For the preparation of different fruit essences Kletzinsky[10] gives -the following directions. The figures indicate additions in cubic -centimeters to 1 liter of rectified alcohol of 90 per cent.:-- - - [10] Dingler's Polyt. Journ., 180, 77. - -_Apple essence._--Chloroform 10, nitrous ether 10, aldehyde 20, acetic -ether 10, valeric amyl ether 100, oxalic acid[11] 10, glycerin 40. - -_Apricot essence._--Chloroform 10, butyric ether 100, valeric ether -50, peach oil 10, amyl alcohol 20, butyric amyl ether 10, tartaric -acid[11] 10, glycerin 40. - -_Cherry essence._--Acetic ether 50, benzoic ether 50, peach oil 10, -benzoic acid[11] 10, glycerin 30. - -_Currant essence._--Aldehyde 10, acetic ether 50, benzoic ether 10, -grape-seed oil 10, tartaric acid[11] 50, succinic acid[11] 10, benzoic -acid[11] 10. - -_Grape essence._--Chloroform 20, aldehyde 20, formic ether 20, -grape-seed oil 100, wintergreen oil 10, tartaric acid[11] 50, succinic -acid[11] 30, glycerin 100. - -_Lemon essence._--Chloroform 10, nitrous ether 10, aldehyde 20, acetic -ether 100, oil of lemons 100, tartaric acid[11] 100, succinic acid[11] -10, glycerin 50. - -_Melon essence._--Aldehyde 20, formic ether 10, butyric ether 40, -valeric ether 50, glycerin 30. - -_Orange essence._--Chloroform 20, aldehyde 20, acetic ether 50, -formic ether 10, butyric ether 10, benzoic ether 10, wintergreen oil -10, acetic amyl ether 10, orange-peel oil 100, tartaric acid[11] 10, -glycerin 100. - - [11] The figures for free acids refer to cubic centimeters of cold, - saturated, alcoholic solutions. - -_Peach essence._--Aldehyde 20, acetic ether 50, formic ether 50, -butyric ether 50, valeric ether 50, peach oil 50, amyl alcohol 20, -glycerin 50. - -_Pear essence._--Acetic ether 50, acetic amyl ether 100, glycerin 100. - -_Pineapple essence._--Chloroform 10, aldehyde 10, butyric ethyl ether -50, butyric amyl ether 100, glycerin 30. - -_Plum essence._--Aldehyde 50, acetic ether 50, formic ether 10, butyric -ether 20, peach oil 40, glycerin 80. - -_Raspberry essence._--Nitrous ether 10, aldehyde 10, acetic ether 50, -formic ether 10, butyric ether 10, benzoic ether 10, grape-seed oil -10, wintergreen oil 10, acetic amyl ether 10, butyric amyl ether 10, -tartaric acid[11] 50, succinic acid[11] 10, glycerin 40. - - [11] The figures for free acids refer to cubic centimeters of cold, - saturated, alcoholic solutions. - -_Strawberry essence._--Nitrous ether 10, acetic ether 50, formic ether -10, butyric ether 50, wintergreen oil 10, acetic amyl ether 30, butyric -amyl ether 20, glycerin 20. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES. - - -The alcoholic perfumes, also called "_Extraits d'Odeurs_," are divided -into flower-odors, "_Extraits aux fleurs_," and into compound odors, -"_Bouquets_." The extracts of French flower pomades form the foundation -of all _Extraits d'Odeurs_, all other additions serving the purpose of -rendering these odors more pronounced and durable. Hence the art of the -perfumer consist in attaining this object as perfectly as possible by -the correct composition of the perfume-materials at his disposal. If, -for instance, the flower-odor _jasmine_ is to be prepared, it would not -be sufficient to simply use the alcoholic extract of jasmine-pomade for -the purpose, since the odor of jasmine would soon volatilize in the -air or upon the handkerchief, if the perfumer did not understand how -to prevent it. To prevent the rapid volatilization of the scent, to -retain it or to fix it, extracts of various perfume-materials, known as -tinctures or extracts are used. - -The method of preparing the flower-pomades in France has already been -described on p. 58 _et seq._ It need here only be added that, according -to their quality, these pomades are designated by different numbers -by the French manufacturers. There are three qualities, which by some -manufacturers are designated as No. 6, No. 18, and No. 30; and by -others as No. 12, No. 24 and No. 36, so that No. 6 and No. 12, No. 18 -and No. 24, as well as No. 30 and 36 correspond to each other. Pomades -No. 6 or No. 12 are not suitable for the preparation of extracts, they -containing but little actual extract of flowers, and are generally -mixtures touched up with volatile oils. They are almost exclusively -used for hair pomades, for which they are well adapted. No. 18 or No. -24 is the quality generally employed by the perfumer for alcoholic -extracts. No. 30 or No. 36 is the strongest, and, hence, most expensive -flower-pomade, and is used only by a few perfumers who have customers -for the finest qualities of _Extraits d'Odeurs_. - -When freshly prepared, the above-mentioned flower pomades do not -possess the fine odor of the respective flowers, the full aroma being -developed only after about six months. The tin-canisters containing -them should be provided with well-fitting lids and kept in a cool, dry -cellar. Thus stored, flower-pomade keeps for about five years, with the -exception of jasmine and tuberose, which keep only for about two years. - -In order to show how the extraction of flower-pomades is effected, -we will take, as an example, 2 lbs. of French flower-pomade No. 18 -and 3½ quarts of best alcohol.[14] This proportion yields a good and -sufficiently strong extract for the preparation of _Extraits d'Odeurs_. -It must, of course, be suited to the size of the extracting apparatus, -8 lbs. of flower-pomade and 14 quarts of alcohol being, for instance, -taken, though that depends on the quantity of the respective extract -required by the perfumer. It is, however, best that the apparatus -should be as completely filled as possible so that it contains but -little air. - - [14] By "best alcohol" is understood rectified alcohol of 95 to 97 per - cent. - -The gaining of alcoholic extracts from flower-pomades is best effected -in a special apparatus, one of the simplest kind for the purpose being -shown at Fig. 25. - - [Illustration: FIG. 25.] - -It consists of two cylinders, _A_ and _A_{1}_ of stout sheet-iron -provided with well-fitting lids. Through the centre of each lid passes -a vertical iron shaft _a_ and _a_{1}_ which carries in the interior -of the apparatus several horizontal arms _b_, _b_{1}_, _b_{2}_. These -vertical shafts can be rapidly revolved by the horizontal shaft _c_. -Before bringing the flower-pomade into the apparatus, it is melted in -the water-bath at a temperature, which, under no conditions, should -exceed 88.25° F. The alcohol is also heated to 88.25° F. and added to -the melted pomade in the apparatus. The arms with which the vertical -shaft is provided, keep the mass in the apparatus in constant motion -and prevent the pomade from settling on the bottom. The apparatus is -arranged to be driven either by hand or steam, a fly-wheel instead of a -pulley, being in the first case provided at _g_. - -Where the manufacturer has steam-power at his disposal, the apparatus -may be connected with the transmission and allowed to run for 48 to 60 -hours during working time. After the expiration of this time, proceed -to strain off the finished extract (No. 1) as follows: Over a clean tin -vessel stretch a close, white linen cloth, and pour the entire contents -of the apparatus upon the latter; the liquid portion runs through the -cloth into the vessel, while the pomade remains behind upon the cloth. -Finally, the cloth is thoroughly wrung out in order to obtain as much -alcoholic extract from the pomade as possible. Bring the extract, No. -1, thus obtained into a glass flask, allow it to stand in a cool cellar -for about 48 hours, and then filter it through paper into another glass -bottle. This filtering through paper is necessary, even if the extract -should appear clear and pure, as, in straining, not only do small -particles of fat pass through the cloth, but are also dissolved in the -extract. By quietly standing in a cool cellar these particles of fat -are separated and appear as white flakes on the bottom and sides of the -flask. At a higher temperature, these flakes melt and appear as drops -of oil on the bottom of the flask. If filtering were omitted, these -particles of fat would be transferred to the extracts and thus cause -stains upon handkerchiefs, clothing, etc. If the manufacturer has not a -cool cellar at his disposal, the fatty particles are readily separated -by placing the flasks containing the extract upon ice, and filtering -immediately after separation is complete. The fat then remains upon the -filter. - -The pomade remaining upon the straining cloth is, without being -previously melted, returned to the apparatus, and, after adding the -same quantity of alcohol (3½ quarts to every 2 lbs. of pomade), the -mixture is again worked as previously described. The straining off and -filtering of extract No. 2 is effected in precisely the same manner as -extract No. 1. - -The pomade upon the cloth is now brought for the third time into the -apparatus and, after adding 3½ quarts of alcohol for every 2 lbs. of -pomade, subjected to the same treatment as for extracts Nos. 1 and 2. -After thoroughly wringing out the cloth containing the pomade, the -latter is brought into a clean tin vessel and entirely melted upon -the water-bath. The vessel containing the melted pomade is placed in -a cool cellar and, if after complete cooling, a liquid appears upon -the surface, it is added to the flask containing extract No. 3. This -extract, No. 3, is used in place of alcohol when preparing, the next -time, extract No. 1 from the same kind of pomade. In this manner, an -extract No. 1 of still greater strength is obtained, and by treating -the pomade three times with alcohol, it is more completely exhausted. -The exhausted pomade can, in conjunction with fresh fat, be used for -ordinary hair pomades. - -Although the extraction of pomades is somewhat laborious and requires -great care, it nevertheless pays the perfumer. - - [Illustration: FIG. 26.] - -Beyer frères, of Paris, have essentially improved the extracting -apparatus previously described, the improvement being shown in Fig. 26. -The cylinders _A_ and _A_{1}_ are of copper tinned inside; the lids -close air-tight; above the cocks _f_ and _f_{1}_ a perforated piece of -tin is placed in the interior of the cylinders; upon this piece of tin -a disk of felt may be placed, and thus the extract be drawn off clear. -In order to reduce the pomade to a finely divided state, and thus bring -it in contact with the alcohol, it is passed through a vermicelli -press, _h_, placed upon the cylinder _A_{1}_. The pomade passes, in -the form of fine vermicelli, through a sieve in the lower portion of -the press into the alcohol contained in the cylinders. The press can -be transferred from one extracting vessel to the other. The shafts _a_ -and _a_{1}_ also have several horizontal arms like those shown in Fig. -25. Through the contrivances _d_ and _d_{1}_, sitting upon the shaft -_c_, the shafts _a_ and _a_{1}_, receive a revolving as well as an -up-and-down motion, so that a complete mixture of pomade and alcohol is -effected. By this arrangement the pomade completely yields its perfume -to the alcohol in one day, and independent of the quicker work, it -has the further advantage that the extracts are of better quality in -consequence of not remaining for so long a time in contact with the fat. - - -TINCTURES AND EXTRACTS. In the following pages receipts for the -preparation of the principal tinctures and extracts used in the -preparation of _Extraits_, as well as in other branches of perfumery, -fumigating pastils and powders, dentifrices, mouth-waters, and -cosmetics, will be given. The tinctures are prepared from the -resins and balsams previously mentioned, as well as from the -perfume-substances derived from the animal kingdom. Besides these -there are employed for the purpose several spices, leaves, roots, and -seeds--such as musk-seeds, angelica root, orris root, patchouli leaves, -musk-root or sumbul-root, tonka beans, vanilla, vitivert root, etc. - -Most of these substances, if not already found in commerce in the form -of a powder, are, before extraction, pulverized, or at least comminuted -as much as possible. For a better view the treatment of each substance -is given with the respective receipt. The infusions should be stored in -a moderately warm room, and thoroughly shaken several times every day. -When extraction is finished the product is filtered through paper and -is then called _tincture_ or _extract_. - -The substances to be used for tinctures should be fresh and genuine, -and the alcohol free from fusel oil, since a perfect tincture can only -be obtained under these conditions. For the preparation of tinctures -Beyer frères have constructed very suitable apparatuses (Figs. 27 and -28). By the vigorous and uninterrupted agitation produced by means of -such an apparatus extraction is effected much more rapidly and more -completely than by treating the substances to be extracted in ordinary -bottles and by shaking with the hand. - - [Illustration: FIG. 27.] - -The apparatus (Fig. 27) is provided with two boxes for the reception -of bottles filled with the substances to be extracted and alcohol. -In the accompanying illustration one box is charged with two glass -bottles and the other with a copper flask. However, Beyer frères also -construct apparatuses which can, at one time, be charged with 6, 8, -or 10 glass bottles, so that 6, 8, or 10 different tinctures can be -prepared at one operation. - - [Illustration: FIG. 28.] - -The apparatus (Fig. 28) consists of a round table provided with -cavities covered with leather, in which rest bottles of a special -shape. The bottles fit exactly in the cavities. The stoppers, with -which the bottles are closed, rest against a screw of large diameter -placed in the centre of the apparatus. Against this screw the bottles -are firmly pressed by means of clamps and screws. The bottles being -filled with the substances to be extracted, the table is set in motion, -moving alternately from left to right and from right to left. - -It is advisable to have always a sufficient supply of tinctures on -hand, since their aroma improves by age. - -The receipts given in the following pages have been practically tested -and can be recommended as perfectly reliable. - -_Musk tincture._--Tonkin musk 11 drachms, rose water 8 ozs., best -quality of alcohol 2 quarts. - -Carefully empty the musk sac into a glass flask, add the rose water and -let the flask stand for about 10 days, shaking frequently. Then add the -alcohol and let the whole stand for several weeks, shaking frequently. -Cut up the empty musk sacs into as small pieces as possible, and, -in another bottle, treat them in the same manner as their contents; -distilled water, may, however, be used instead of rose water. The -object of the water is to soften the musk, which swells up, so that the -alcohol can better penetrate into the cellular tissue and absorb the -aroma. - -The extract from the empty musk sacs is used for cheaper products, or -mixed with the extract from the contents of the sacs, according to -whether a more or less fine quality of tincture is to be obtained. A -still higher yield might, perhaps, be obtained by the use of a machine -for comminuting the musk, which grinds the sac to atoms, whereby the -cellular tissue is still more completely disintegrated than by cutting -up. - -_Civet tincture._--Civet 5½ drachms, best quality of alcohol 3 pints. - -Civet in its natural state being, with difficulty, soluble in alcohol, -triturate it in a mortar to a pulverulent mass together with some dry -substance, for instance, whiting or exhausted orris-root powder. The -mixture is then brought into a glass flask, the alcohol added, and the -whole frequently shaken. - -_Ambergris tincture._--Ambergris 5½ drachms, alcohol of the best -quality 1 quart. - -Ambergris dissolving readily in alcohol, pulverizing is not required, -but if it is done, great care should be exercised to prevent loss of -this expensive substance. Ambergris is not so much distinguished by its -aroma as by its indestructibility, which renders it especially suitable -for fixing odors. - -_Castor tincture._--Castor 3½ ozs., best quality of alcohol 3 pints. - -Comminute the castor as much as possible, bring it into a glass flask -and add the alcohol. - -Perfume-substances resembling musk having in the last few years -increased to an extraordinary degree, the use of castor has been almost -entirely abandoned on account of its disagreeable odor. The tincture -can only be employed, when very old, for cheap perfumes. - -_Benzoin tincture._--Benzoin (Siam) 2 lbs., best quality of alcohol 3 -quarts. - -Convert the benzoin into a coarse powder, bring it into a flask, add -the alcohol and shake thoroughly. Solution takes place in 10 to 12 days. - -Siam benzoin is the finest and most expensive and is indispensable for -_Extraits d'Odeurs_. For cheaper products of perfumery, Sumatra benzoin -answers very well. - -_Peru-balsam tincture._--Peru balsam 8 ozs., best quality of alcohol 5 -quarts. - -_Tolu-balsam tincture._--Tolu balsam 3 lbs., best quality of alcohol 5 -quarts. - -Bring the alcohol into a bottle. Tolu balsam cannot be reduced to a -powder, hence it is necessary to keep it right cool, whereby it becomes -brittle so that it can be cut up with a sharp instrument and a hammer. -The pieces detached are rapidly brought into the alcohol, solution -taking place in about 14 days. If the alcohol were added to the tolu -balsam, the latter would ball together, rendering solution very -difficult. Frequent vigorous shaking is necessary. - -_Olibanum tincture._--Olibanum 2 lbs., best quality of alcohol 4 quarts. - -Reduce the olibanum to as fine a powder as possible, bring it into a -flask, add the alcohol and shake frequently. - -_Opopanax tincture._--Opopanax 2 lbs., best quality of alcohol 4 quarts. - -Reduce the opopanax to a coarse powder, bring it into a bottle, add the -alcohol and shake frequently. - -_Storax tincture._--_Storax liquidus_ 4 lbs., alcohol of best quality 5 -quarts. - -Bring the alcohol first into the flask. Then place the pot containing -the storax in warm water until it becomes more liquid, and then pour it -in very thin threads into the flask. Shake frequently. - -_Myrrh tincture._--Myrrh 1 lb., best quality of alcohol 2 quarts. - -_Musk-seed or abelmosk tincture._--Abelmosk grains 21 ozs., best -quality of alcohol 2½ quarts. - -Reduce the grains to a fine powder, bring the powder into a bottle, -and add the alcohol. This _tincture abelmoschi_ fulfils its object as -a fixing agent only when about one year old, when it possesses a very -fine aroma. - -Abelmosk grains are the seeds of a plant (_Abelmoschus moschatus -Mönch_; _Hebiscus abelmoschus, L._) indigenous to Central Africa, -Arabia, and India. They are reddishgray, kidney-shaped, slightly -corrugated on the surface, and of an agreeable musk-like odor. The -substance producing the musk odor lies in the seed coat. The odor -becomes very pronounced on rubbing the seeds between the hands. - -_Angelica root tincture._--Angelica root 16 ozs., best quality of -alcohol 2 quarts. - -Bruise or rasp the root, bring it into a bottle, add the alcohol, and -shake frequently. - -_Orris-root tincture._--Pulverized orris root of best quality 2 lbs., -alcohol of best quality 3 quarts. - -Pulverize the root, bring it into a glass flask, and add the alcohol. -The powder having a great tendency to ball together, it is necessary -to shake five or six times daily, and continue to do so for 14 days. -In straining off the tincture, it is advisable to bring the entire -contents of the flask upon a close linen cloth stretched over a tin -vessel. The orris-root powder remaining upon the cloth after the -tincture has run off is returned to the flask, and fresh alcohol added -in order to obtain a second extract. - -_Musk-root_ or _sumbul-root tincture_.--Sumbul root 1 lb., best quality -of alcohol 2½ quarts. - -Proceed in the same manner as given under angelica-root tincture. - -_Tonka-bean tincture._--Tonka beans 8 ozs., alcohol of best quality 3 -pints. - -The tonka bean is of great importance for perfumery. The tincture -prepared from it has an agreeable, penetrating odor, and in mixing it -with other odors, great care has to be exercised, so that the tonka -odor is not too prominent. The tincture is prepared as follows: Bring -the beans, without comminuting them or removing the white coating -adhering to them, into a flask, add the alcohol, and let the whole -macerate, with frequent shaking, for about 14 days. Then filter off the -fluid. The tincture prepared in this manner only contains the cumarin -found as a white coating upon the beans, and is used only for the -finest products. Now take the beans from the flask, comminute them, -return them to the flask, and add 1¼ quarts of alcohol. This extract -gives an excellent tincture suitable for products of medium quality. - -_Cumarin tincture._--Cumarin 5½ drachms, best quality of alcohol 1 -quart. - -_Heliotropin tincture._--The white crystals of heliotropin yield -with alcohol a solution clear as water, which is much used in the -preparation of _Extrait héliotrope_. - -_Vanilla tincture._--Best quality of Bourbon vanilla 5¼ ozs., alcohol -of best quality 2 quarts. - -To prepare the tincture proceed as follows: Cut the so-called vanilla -pods lengthwise and then into as small pieces as possible, and bring -the latter together with the alcohol into a flask. Some perfumers -triturate the commimuted vanilla with sugar in a porcelain mortar, -whereby the small-seed bodies contained in the pod are ground up, and -a better yield is claimed to be obtained. Though by this trituration -a tincture of a darker color may be obtained, the color alone is by -no means a proof of the strength of the tincture. Care must be had to -bring the white, downy crystals of vanillin found upon the vanilla pods -into the flask. - -_Vanillin tincture._--Vanillin 1½ drachms, alcohol 2 quarts. - -_Vitivert tincture._--Vitivert rhizome 8 ozs., best quality of alcohol -2 quarts. - -Reduce the rhizome to as fine a powder as possible, bring the latter -into a flask, add the alcohol and shake frequently. - -_Juniper-berry tincture._--Juniper berries 2 lbs., best quality of -alcohol 5 pints. - -The juniper berries (the fruits of _Juniperus communis, L._) are -comminuted, and the alcohol is poured over them. - -_Patchouli extract._[15]--Patchouli leaves 1 lb., best quality of -alcohol 5 pints. - - [15] Compare patchouli oil, p. 130. - -Bring the pulverized leaves into a bottle and add the alcohol. The -tincture from patchouli leaves being dark-green is not suitable for -the preparation of _Extraits_, since white substances are colored -grass-green by it; only traces of the tincture may be used for the -purpose of giving the _Extrait patchouli_ a greenish shade of color. -The tincture may, however, be utilized for milled patchouli soaps. - -From many of the above-mentioned perfume-substances, which serve -for the preparation of tinctures and are not entirely soluble in -alcohol, but leave a residue after extraction, a second infusion may -be made. Musk, castor, and the resins dissolve completely, there -remaining behind only the impurities and any mineral constituents -present which possess no aroma. But all residues from woods, fruits, -etc., are suitable for a second extraction, most of the tinctures -thus obtained being quite aromatic, and, as will be seen later on in -giving receipts, can be very advantageously utilized. For the second -extraction less alcohol has to be taken than for the first. - -Since many perfumers consider it of greater advantage and more suitable -to first dissolve the volatile oils used for the _Extraits d'Odeurs_, -and to prepare a tincture in this manner, several receipts for the -purpose are given below. In the receipts for perfumery given in the -next following sections, the volatile oils are specified as such, and -not as tinctures, because the _Extraits d'Odeurs_ containing evidently -much non-saturated alcohol, the volatile oils will in time completely -dissolve in them. An exception to this rule might be ylang-ylang oil -and perhaps orris-root oil. Ylang-ylang oil is soluble with difficulty, -even in very strong alcohol, and if directly used for the _Extrait_, -the latter remains turbid for weeks, and frequently, especially in -winter, does not become clear, notwithstanding repeated filtering. -However, by preparing in good time an ylang-ylang tincture this evil is -avoided. - -_Almond-oil (bitter) tincture._--Bitter almond oil 2¾ drachms, -alcohol[16] 1 quart. - - [16] For all the tinctures, 95 to 97 per cent. alcohol of the best - quality is to be used. - -_Balm-oil tincture._--Balm oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 quart. - -_Basil-oil tincture._--Basil oil 14 drachms, alcohol 1 quart. - -_Bergamot-oil tincture._--Bergamot oil 3½ ozs., alcohol 4 quarts. - -_Canango-oil tincture._--Canango oil (Java), 1¾ ozs., alcohol 1 -quart. - -_Cassia-oil tincture._--Cassia oil 1¾ ozs., alcohol 1 quart. - -_Cedar-oil tincture._--Cedar oil 1 oz., alcohol 1 quart. - -_Cinnamon-oil tincture._--Ceylon cinnamon oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 -quart. - -_Citronella-oil tincture._--Citronella oil 1 oz., alcohol 1 quart. - -_Clove-oil tincture._--Oil of cloves 11 drachms, alcohol 1 quart. - -_Eucalyptus-oil tincture._--Eucalyptus oil 1 oz., alcohol 1½ quarts. - -_Geranium-oil tincture._--Palma rosa oil 14 drachms, alcohol 1 quart. - -_Lavender-oil tincture._--Lavender oil 1¾ ozs., alcohol 1 quart. - -_Lemon-grass-oil tincture._--Lemon-grass oil 1 oz., alcohol 1 quart. - -_Lemon-oil tincture._--Oil of lemons 1¾ ozs., alcohol 1 quart. - -_Licari-oil tincture._--Licari oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 quart. - -_Myrrh-oil tincture._--Myrrh oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 quart. - -_Neroli-oil tincture._--Neroli oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 quart. - -_Opopanax-oil tincture._--Opopanax oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 quart. - -_Orris-root-oil tincture._--Orris-root oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 quart. - -_Patchouli-oil tincture._--Patchouli oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 quart. - -_Petit-grain-oil tincture._--Petit-grain oil 11 drachms, alcohol 1 -quart. - -_Pine-leaf-oil tincture._--Pine-leaf oil[17] 14 drachms, alcohol 1 -quart. - - [17] By pine-leaf oil is understood pine oil or dwarf-pine oil. See p. - 149. - -_Portugal-oil tincture._--Portugal oil 1¾ ozs., alcohol 1 quart. - -_Sandal-wood-oil tincture._--Sandal-wood[18] oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 -quart. - - [18] The better quality of oil from the East Indian wood is to be used. - -_Verbena-oil tincture._--Verbena oil 11 drachms, alcohol 1 quart. - -_Vitivert-oil tincture._--Vitivert oil 2¾ drachms, alcohol 1 quart. - -_Wintergreen-oil tincture._--Wintergreen oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 -quart. - -_Ylang-ylang-oil tincture._--Ylang-ylang oil 11 drachms, alcohol 3 -quarts. - -_Rose-oil tincture._--Rose oil (Turkish)[19] 1¾ ozs., alcohol 6½ -quarts. - - [19] Bulgarian rose oil is generally designated "Turkish rose oil." - -Rose oil, if directly added to the alcohol, dissolves with difficulty -and incompletely. By the following method the object is, however, -readily accomplished:-- - -Bring about 5½ ozs. of pulverized sugar into a capacious porcelain -mortar, add the rose oil and mix intimately with the pestle. Then pour -the thickly-fluid mass through a glass funnel into a glass flask and -rinse the mortar with alcohol until the prescribed 6½ quarts of the -latter have been brought into the flask. Frequent shaking accelerates -the complete solution of the rose oil. - - -EXTRAITS AUX FLEURS. We now proceed to give receipts for _Extraits -d'Odeurs_, and consider first the flower odors, _Extraits aux fleurs_. -_By extracts are thereby understood the odors extracted from French -flower pomades._ Any coloring matter required is mentioned under the -respective receipts. - -Great care has to be exercised in the preparation of _Extraits_ and -_Bouquets_, and special attention must be paid that they actually -represent the odor whose name they bear. - -_Extrait acacia._--Extract No. 1 from _Pomm. Acacia_ 750 drachms, -bergamot oil 1, lavender oil 1, eucalyptus oil ½, orris-root tincture -125, musk-root tincture 12½, ambergris tincture 2½, civet tincture 1, -musk tincture 1. - -_Extrait cassie._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Cassie_ 500 drachms, -from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 125, bergamot oil 5, orris-root tincture 75, -tinctures of vitivert and angelica each 12½, tinctures of musk and -ambergris each 2½. - -_Extrait héliotrope_ (_Receipt No. 1_).--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. -Héliotrope_ 750 drachms, and from _Pomm. Rose_ 75, bergamot oil 2½, -rose-geranium oil 1½, musk tincture 2½, civet tincture 1½, heliotropin -tincture 50. - -_Extrait héliotrope_ (_Receipt No. 2_).--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. -Héliotrope_ 500 drachms, and from _Pomm. Rose_ and _Pomm. Orange_ 50 -each, bergamot oil 5, clove oil 2½, vanilla tincture 50, orris-root -tincture 100, musk-root tincture 25, tinctures of musk and civet 5 -each, benzoin tincture 10, Peru-balsam tincture 5. - -_Extrait jacinthe._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jacinthe_ 750 drachms, -and from _Pomm. Acacia_ 100; bergamot oil 5, clove oil 1, storax -tincture 2½, musk-root tincture 12½, tinctures of musk and ambergris 1½ -each. - -_Extrait jasmin._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 500 drachms, -and from _Pomm. Orange_ 100; civet tincture 1½, ambergris tincture 1, -sandal-wood oil 3 drops. - -_Essence of the odor of linden blossoms._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. -Acacia_ 250 drachms, from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 50, and from _Pomm. Jonquille_ -100; pure camomile oil 1½, oil of lemons 2½, ambergris tincture 5, -civet tincture 3. - -_Extrait jonquille._--Extract No. 1 from _Pomm. Jonquille_ 750 drachms, -lavender oil ½, bergamot oil 2½, Ceylon cinnamon oil ½, storax -tincture 1½, tinctures of abelmosk and angelica each 5, musk tincture -1½, civet tincture 1. - -_Extrait magnolia._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 150 drachms, -from _Pomm. Acacia_ 250, and from _Pomm. Rose_ 125, balm oil 2½, -tinctures of vanilla and cumarin each 12½, civet tincture 1½, musk -tincture 2½. - -_Extrait muguet_ (_lily of the valley_).--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. -Jonquille_ 750 drachms, from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 100, from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ -200, and from _Pomm. Acacia_ and _Pomm. Orange_ each 100; bergamot oil -7½ drachms, oil of lemons 2½, angelica oil 3 drops, storax tincture 5 -drachms, musk tincture 2½, vanilla tincture 5, ambergris tincture 2, -ylang-ylang tincture 100, wintergreen tincture 25, bitter-almond-oil -tincture 2½. - -_Extrait fleurs de Mai_ (_May flowers_).--Extract No. 1 from _Pomm. -Réséda_, _Pomm. Rose_ and _Pomm. Héliotrope_, each 75 drachms; from -_Pomm. Jasmin_ 125, and from _Pomm. Orange_ 50; bergamot oil 7½, Ceylon -cinnamon oil 2½, orris-root tincture 50, tinctures of ambergris and -musk, each 15, ylang-ylang tincture 25. - -_Extrait ixora._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 125 drachms, -from _Pomm. Cassie_ and _Pomm. Réséda_, each 175; bergamot oil 5, -orris-root tincture 125, musk tincture 10, benzoin tincture 25. - -_Extrait Orange._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Orange_ 500 drachms, from -_Pomm. Acacia_ 100; Portugal oil 7½, tinctures of musk and ambergris, -each 1. - -_Extrait white rose._--Rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 500 -drachms, bergamot oil 1¼, sandal-wood oil 3 drops, nutmeg oil 1 drop, -musk tincture ¾ drachm, civet tincture ½ drachm. - -_Extrait rose v. d. centifolie._--Extract No. 1 from _Pomm. Rose_ 500 -drachms, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 500, rose-geranium oil -10, musk tincture, 2½, sandal-wood oil, 7 drops. - -_Extrait violette._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Violette_ 500 drachms, -and from _Pomm. Cassie_ 250; orris-root tincture 125, musk tincture 1½, -sandal-wood oil 3 drops. - -To give the _extrait violette_ an apparently greater concentration, -it is compounded with a green coloring tincture. The latter may be -prepared by bringing comminuted dried spinach leaves into a bottle and -pouring 96 per cent. alcohol over them. The result is a handsome green -coloring matter; but care must be taken not to add too much of it to -the _extrait_, as otherwise it might stain the handkerchief, etc.[20] - - [20] This spinach extract unfortunately bleaches very rapidly - when exposed to light, and the extraits colored with it acquire - a dirty-brown color. Hence it is recommended to use the "green - tincture," which can be purchased from the larger manufactories of - volatile oils. - -_Extrait de violette de Parme._--Extract No. 1 from _Pomm. Violette_ -750 drachms, orris-root oil and bergamot oil each 2½, tinctures of -musk, ambergris, and bitter-almond oil each 1½. - -This _extrait_ may also be colored slightly green. - -_Extrait tubereuse._--Extract No. 1 from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 500 drachms, -bergamot oil 2½, Ceylon cinnamon oil ½, musk tincture 1½, storax -tincture 2½. - -_Extrait réséda._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Réséda_ 750 drachms, and -from _Pomm. Violette_ 100; bergamot oil 7½, rose-geranium oil 2½, clove -oil 1½, musk tincture 2, ambergris tincture 1. - -A trace of the above-mentioned green coloring substance may be added. - -_Extrait ylang-ylang._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jasmin_, _Pomm. -Jonquille_, _Pomm. Orange_, and _Pomm. Acacia_, each 250 drachms, -bergamot oil 7½, angelica oil 2½, ylang-ylang tincture 500, abelmosk -tincture 25, tonka-bean extract 7½, musk tincture 4, ambergris tincture -2½. - - -COMPOUND ODORS (BOUQUETS). _Extrait Edelweiss._--Extracts No. 1 from -_Pomm. Jasmin_ and _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 250 drachms each, and from -_Pomm. Orange_, _Pomm. Héliotrope_, and _Pomm. Jacinthe_ 125 each, -bergamot oil 10, basil oil 5, tinctures of musk and ambergris each 5, -bitter-almond-oil tincture 2½, tinctures of angelica and vitivert each -25. - -_Extrait ess-bouquet._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Acacia_ and _Pomm. -Cassie_ each 100 drachms, from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 325, from _Pomm. Rose_ -75, and from _Pomm. Orange_ 250; bergamot oil 40, Ceylon cinnamon oil -and clove oil each 5, French rose-geranium oil 10, sandal-wood oil 2½, -licari oil 8, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 75, orris-root -tincture 50, tinctures of ambergris and civet each 10, musk tincture -15, musk-root tincture 37½, benzoin tincture 15. - -_Extrait spring flower._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jasmin_, _Pomm. -Cassie_, _Pomm. Orange_, _Pomm. Jonquille_, _Pomm. Tubereuse_, and -_Pomm. Violette_ each 100 drachms, from _Pomm. Rose_ 50, from _Pomm. -Réséda_ 100, and from _Pomm. Héliotrope_ and _Pomm. Acacia_ each 50; -neroli oil 2½, bergamot oil 5, vitivert oil ½, rose-oil tincture from -Turkish rose oil 50, musk-root tincture 12½, musk tincture 5, civet -tincture 2½, orris-root tincture 25. - -_Extrait bouquet Eugenie._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Cassie_ 100 -drachms, from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 75, from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 125; bergamot -oil 10, licari oil 2½, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 75, -musk-root tincture 10, cumarin tincture 7½, orris-root tincture 75, -tinctures of angelica and musk each 10, ambergris tincture 5. - -_Extrait excelsior._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 200 drachms -and from _Pomm. Orange_ and _Pomm. Héliotrope_ each 100; oils of lemon -and rose geranium each 4, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 60, -orris-root tincture 50, musk tincture 5, abelmosk tincture 10, opopanax -tincture 5, storax tincture 1. - -_Extrait Frangipani._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Cassie_ 150 drachms, -and from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 50; French rose geranium oil 5, cassia oil 2, -licari oil 3, sandal-wood oil 1, orris-root tincture 100, angelica -tincture 8, musk tincture 5, storax tincture 5. - -_Extrait jockey club._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Orange_ 150 drachms, -from _Pomm. Rose_ 35, from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 150, and from _Pomm. -Jonquille_ and _Pomm. Héliotrope_ each 30; bergamot oil 8, Ceylon -cinnamon oil 2, Portugal oil 6, cedar oil 1, clove oil 2, tincture of -rose oil from Turkish rose oil and of orris root each 40, musk-root -tincture 8, musk tincture 10, ambergris tincture 3, vanilla tincture 5. - -_Extrait opopanax._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Orange_ 250 drachms, -and from _Pomm. Héliotrope_ 125; opopanax oil 10, Ceylon cinnamon oil -5, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 125, opopanax tincture 25, -orris-root tincture 62½, musk tincture 4, ambergris tincture 5. - -_Extrait patchouly._--Extract No. 1 from _Pomm. Acacia_ 100 drachms, -patchouli oil 4, clove oil and Portugal oil, each 2, rose-oil tincture -from Turkish rose oil 40, orris-root tincture 30, musk-root tincture -10, vitivert tincture 10, patchouli tincture 1. - -_Extrait millefleurs._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 250 drachms, -from _Pomm. Jonquille_ 100, _Pomm. Rose_ 75, _Pomm. Acacia_ 100, -_Pomm. Orange_ and _Pomm. Tubereuse_ each 150, and _Pomm. Cassie_ 100; -bergamot oil 20, rose geranium oil and Portugal oil each 15, oils -of angelica and sandal wood, each 5, rose-oil tincture from Turkish -rose oil 150, orris-root tincture 250, vanilla tincture 15, musk-root -tincture 35, tolu-balsam tincture 10, tinctures of storax and patchouli -each 5, musk tincture 30, civet tincture 25. - -_Extrait bouquet Victoria._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Rose_ 200 -drachms, _Pomm. Orange_ and _Pomm. Tubereuse_, each 100, _Pomm. -Jasmin_ 300, and _Pomm. Héliotrope_ 200; lemon oil 20, verbena oil -5, French rose geranium oil 10, musk tincture 20, tinctures of civet -and ambergris each 5, musk-root tincture 40, tolu-balsam tincture 20, -orris-root tincture 150. - -_Extrait kiss-me-quick._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Acacia_ and _Pomm. -Jonquille_ each 100 drachms, and _Pomm. Jasmin_ 40; bergamot oil 4, oil -of lemons 2, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 30, tinctures of -vitivert and angelica 8, ambergris tincture 4, civet tincture 2, musk -tincture 1. - -_Extrait mogadore._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 100 drachms, -from _Pomm. Jonquille_ and _Pomm. Acacia_, each 50, from _Pomm. Orange_ -40; bergamot oil 6, oil of lavender 1, French rose geranium oil 2, -tinctures of musk, ambergris, tolu balsam, and cumarin, each 10, -tincture of orris root 50. - -_Extrait bouquet Prince Albert._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jasmin_ -150 drachms, from _Pomm. Tubereuse_, _Pomm. Orange_, and _Pomm. Cassie_ -each 50, _Pomm. Rose_ 25, neroli oil 2, bergamot oil 4, musk tincture -2, tonka bean extract 4, angelica tincture 10, ambergris tincture 2. - -_Extrait musc._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Orange_, _Pomm. -Héliotrope_, and _Pomm. Cassie_ each 50 drachms; clove oil 4, cassia -oil 2, tinctures of abelmosk and musk-root each 10, opopanax tincture -4, musk tincture 30, civet tincture 5, orris-root tincture 50. - -_Extrait new-mown hay._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Réséda_ 200 -drachms, _Pomm. Rose_ 40, _Pomm. Cassie_ 80, _Pomm. Acacia_ 40; French -rose geranium oil 4, bergamot oil 10, myrrh oil 5, tonka-bean extract -30, vitivert tincture 10, musk-root tincture 16, benzoin tincture 4. - -_Extrait chypre._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Orange_ 60 drachms, -_Pomm. Jasmin_ 40, _Pomm. Cassie_ 110, _Pomm. Héliotrope_ 40; French -rose geranium oil 6, bergamot oil 2, cedar oil ⅗, benzoin tincture 4, -orris-root tincture 30, musk tincture 5, civet tincture 4, abelmosk -tincture 10. - -_Extrait maréchal._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Héliotrope_ and _Pomm. -Orange_ each 200 drachms, from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 75; oils of sandal wood -and cloves each 5, Portugal oil 10, cedar oil 1, rose-oil tincture from -Turkish rose oil 100, orris-root tincture 75, vitivert tincture 25, -civet tincture 10, musk tincture 20, bitter almond oil tincture 1½. - -_Extrait mousseline._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 250 drachms, -_Pomm. Rose_ 150, and _Pomm. Jonquille_, _Pomm. Héliotrope_, and _Pomm. -Cassie_, each 125; French rose geranium oil 12½, oil of cloves 10, -cassia oil 5, wintergreen oil 1, orris-root tincture 125, rose-oil -tincture from Turkish rose oil 100, musk tincture 12½, civet tincture -10, vitivert tincture 37½, abelmosk tincture 25. - -In compiling the abundant choice of receipts for _Extraits d'Odeurs_ -given above, the golden mean has been chosen in regard to the quality -of these odors, they, when carefully prepared, giving, at a moderate -cost of manufacture, a product which in most cases will satisfy the -demands of lovers of perfumes. To enable the perfumer, however, to -satisfy the highest demands attention is called to, and a brief -explanation given of, the so-called "_Extraits triple concentrés_." - -For the preparation of these stronger products, the employment of -a stronger foundation, _i. e._, of more highly saturated extracts -from French flower pomades, is required. For this purpose the French -perfumers prepare, under No. 30, flower pomades of all odors which are -exclusively used for concentrated _Extraits_. They are, of course, -correspondingly higher in price than those prepared from No. 18, which -have previously been treated of. - -The method of preparing the extracts from these pomades, No. 30, is the -same as previously described, the proportion of pomade to alcohol being -also the same; hence for 2 lbs. of pomade 1¾ quarts of alcohol are -to be used. - -The proportions of volatile oils and tinctures given in the above -receipts are also to be retained. The stronger extracts from the flower -pomades are the only measure in the preparation of the _Extraits -triple concentrés_, and such must be the case since the object of the -concentration of the _Extraits_ is thus completely attained by the -greater prominence of the flower odors from the _Extraits d'Odeurs_. - -For the preparation of _Extraits d'Odeurs_, the French perfumers also -manufacture a concentrated flower extract of the various odors. This -extract is simply dissolved in alcohol, the solution being effected -immediately, so that this method of preparing _Extraits d'Odeurs_ is -the simplest imaginable. However, the price of such extract (1000 -francs = $200 and more per kilogramme = 2.2 lb.) is a considerable -item, so that most perfumers will prefer the extracts from the flower -pomades as previously described. - - -EXTRAITS D'ODEURS, QUALITY II.--In addition to the _fine_ extracts -given in the preceding section, a small selection of quite cheap -receipts for quality II of such extracts is here given, the extracts -No. 2 offering sufficient material for their preparation. In the -introduction to the previous section, attention has been called to -the fact that quite useful tinctures may be prepared from substances -leaving behind solid residues, there being also on hand the second -extract from the flower pomades. - -Besides the alcohol, such tinctures and extracts cost only the small -trouble of treatment. For this second quality only half the quantity of -volatile oils prescribed for the best quality is used. Such tinctures, -from which a second extract cannot be had, may, for this purpose, be -diluted one-half with alcohol, which need not be of the best quality, -thus preparing a second quality of them. - -The process to be followed is illustrated by a selection from the first -_Extrait_ receipts which have been converted into _Extraits_ of quality -II. - -_Extrait violette II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Violette_ 500 -drachms, from _Pomm. Cassie_ 250; bergamot oil 2½, musk tincture No. -2, 1½, ambergris tincture No. 2, ¾, diluted with alcohol ¾, bitter -almond oil tincture No. 2, 1, orris-root tincture No. 2, 125. - -Add a small quantity of green coloring substance. - -_Extrait rose II._--Extract No. 2 from _Pomm. Rose_ 500 drachms, -African rose geranium oil 4, sandal-wood oil 3 drops, musk tincture -No. 2, 2½ drachms, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 250 drachms -diluted with an equal quantity of alcohol, which may be called rose -tincture No. 2. - -_Extrait réséda II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Réséda_ 750 drachms -and from _Pomm. Violette_ 100, bergamot oil 3½, African rose-geranium -oil 1, clove oil 1, musk tincture No. 2, 2, ambergris tincture ½ -diluted with alcohol ½. - -_Extrait ylang-ylang II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Jasmin_, _Pomm. -Jonquille_, _Pomm. Orange_, and _Pomm. Acacia_ each 250 drachms; -bergamot oil 3½, angelica oil 1¼, ylang-ylang tincture 250 diluted -with the equal quantity of alcohol, abelmosk No. 2, 25, tonka-bean -extract No. 2, 7½, musk tincture No. 2, 4, ambergris tincture 1¼ -diluted with the same quantity of alcohol. - -_Extrait new-mown hay II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Réséda_ 500 -drachms, from _Pomm. Rose_ 100, from _Pomm. Cassie_ 200 and _Pomm. -Acacia_ 100; palma rosa oil 5, bergamot oil 12½, myrrh oil 6, -tonka-bean extract No. 2, 75, vitivert tincture No. 2, 25, musk-root -tincture No. 2, 40, benzoin tincture 5 diluted with the same quantity -of alcohol. - -_Extrait chypre II._--Extracts No. 2, from _Pomm. Orange_ 150 drachms, -from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 100, _Pomm. Cassie_ 275, and _Pomm. Héliotrope_ -100; palma rosa oil 7½, bergamot oil 2½, cedar oil ¾, orris-root -tincture No. 2, 75, musk tincture No. 2, 12½, abelmosk tincture No. 2, -25, civet tincture 5 diluted with alcohol 5, benzoin tincture 5 diluted -with alcohol 5. - -_Extrait ess. bouquet II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Acacia_ and -_Pomm. Cassie_ each 100, from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 375, _Pomm. Rose_ 75, -_Pomm. Orange_ 250; bergamot oil 20, Ceylon cinnamon oil and clove oil -each 2½, African rose geranium oil 5, sandal-wood oil 1¾, licari oil -2, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 37½ diluted with an equal -quantity of alcohol, orris-root tincture No. 2, 50, ambergris tincture -5 diluted with an equal quantity of alcohol, civet tincture 5 diluted -with an equal quantity of alcohol, musk tincture No. 2, 15, musk-root -tincture No. 2, 37½, benzoin tincture 7½ diluted with an equal quantity -of alcohol. - -_Extrait muguet II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Jonquille_ 750 -drachms, _Pomm. Jasmin_ 100, _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 200 and _Pomm. Acacia_ -and _Pomm. Orange_ each 100; bergamot oil 3½, oil of lemons 1¼, -angelica oil 2 drops, storax tincture 2½ drachms diluted with an -equal quantity of alcohol, musk tincture No. 2, 2½, vanilla tincture -5, ambergris tincture 1, diluted with an equal quantity of alcohol, -ylang-ylang tincture 50 diluted with alcohol 50, wintergreen tincture -12½ diluted with alcohol 12½, bitter-almond oil 1¼ diluted with alcohol -1¼. - -_Extrait bouquet Victoria II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Rose_ 100 -drachms, _Pomm. Orange_ and _Pomm. Tubereuse_ each 50; _Pomm. Jasmin_ -150, _Pomm. Héliotrope_ 100; lemon oil 5, verbena oil 1½, African rose -geranium oil 2½, musk tincture No. 2, 10, musk-root tincture No. 2, 20, -orris-root tincture No. 2, 75, civet tincture 1¼ diluted with alcohol -1¼, ambergris tincture 1¼ diluted with alcohol 1¼, tolu-balsam tincture -5 diluted with alcohol 5. - -_Extrait spring flower II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Jasmin_, -_Pomm. Cassie_, _Pomm. Orange_, _Pomm. Jonquille_, _Pomm. Tubereuse_ -and _Pomm. Violette_, each 100 drachms, from _Pomm. Rose_ 50, _Pomm. -Réséda_ 100, and _Pomm. Héliotrope_ and _Acacia_, each 50; neroli -oil 1¼, bergamot oil 2½, vitivert oil 13 drops, rose-oil tincture -from Turkish rose oil 25 drachms, diluted with alcohol 25, musk-root -tincture No. 2, 12½, musk tincture No. 2, 12½, orris-root tincture No. -2, 25, civet tincture 1¼ diluted with alcohol 1¼. - -_Extrait ixora II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 125 drachms, -from _Pomm. Cassie_ and _Pomm. Réséda_ each 175; bergamot oil 2½, -orris-root tincture No. 2, 125, musk tincture No. 2, 10, benzoin -tincture 12½ diluted with alcohol 12½. - -_Extrait Frangipani II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Cassie_ 375 -drachms, and _Pomm. Jasmin_ 125; African rose geranium oil 12, cassia -oil 2½, licari oil 3½, sandal-wood oil 1¼, orris-root tincture No. 2, -250, angelica tincture No. 2, 20, musk tincture No. 2, 12½, storax -tincture 6 diluted with alcohol 6½. - -_Cologne water, eau de Cologne._--Owing to its excellent properties, -Cologne water is, without doubt, one of the most popular perfumes. -It was invented early in the eighteenth century, and is perhaps the -only perfume which has kept its reputation for so long a time. It was -formerly employed as a medicine in all imaginable diseases, and even -now is in some cases successfully used in slight ailments, such as -headache, nausea, etc. - -The success and reputation of Cologne water are the natural results -of a good product prepared with a thorough knowledge of the subject. -However, in order to be enabled to impart to Cologne water its -generally known excellent qualities, it is necessary to have a thorough -knowledge of the materials used, as well as to understand the method of -fabrication, and the proper treatment of all. - -For the preparation of actually good Cologne water employment of the -best materials is the first condition. The alcohol must be pure, _i. -e._, free from fusel oil, and 95 to 96 per cent. strong, so as to -effect a ready and complete solution of the volatile oils. The latter -also should be of the best quality and proper age, _i. e._, neither -too young nor too old. If too young or too recently distilled, the -aroma is not thoroughly developed, and if, on the other hand, too -old, they have lost the greater portion of their aroma, are thickly -fluid, acquire a dark coloration, and are finally converted into a -resinous substance in which condition they are entirely unfit for finer -products. A cool and dry cellar is required for storing volatile oils, -and they must also be protected from air and sunlight. - -Regarding the durability of the volatile oils used in the preparation -of Cologne water, the following may be said:-- - -_Bergamot oil_ is quite durable; in well-closed bottles stored in a -cool cellar it keeps quite well for 3 to 4 years. _Oil of lemons_ is, -however, very sensitive, and has to be especially protected against -heat, by which it is readily decomposed and, so to say, turns sour. -Freshly-distilled _neroli oil_ should never be used, it acquiring its -proper aroma only after being stored for about 2 years; on the other -hand, it should not be too old. When 6 to 8 years old, it shows a -tendency to rancidity, which can, however, be prevented by mixing it at -the proper time with an equal quantity of alcohol of the best quality. -_Petit-grain oil_ is apt to spoil when kept for several years, and -hence it is not advisable to have too large a supply of it on hand. -Besides the French variety of this volatile oil, there has existed for -several years past another kind, namely the _Paraguay petit-grain oil_, -which is about one-half cheaper than the French. While some consider -both oils as equally good, the French product no doubt deserves the -preference. Of _lavender oil_ only the best French oil, especially made -in France for the preparation of _Eau de Cologne_, should be used. The -price of the English Mitcham lavender oil, being six times that of -the French oil, is simply excessive. Of _rosemary oil_, an especially -fine quality for Cologne water, which can be highly recommended, is -also manufactured in France. Of _balm oil_ only the best German product -should be taken. The three varieties of volatile oils last mentioned -keep for years, especially when kept in hermetically-closed bottles in -a cool place protected from the sun. - -Rose water and orange-blossom water also need careful treatment, the -bottles containing them requiring to be well stoppered and kept in a -cool place. These waters being liable to spoil, the supply of them -should be renewed from year to year. As regards the compounding of -the volatile oils, it is advisable to mix them in a capacious glass -flask, add at least an equal weight of alcohol of the best quality, -shake thoroughly, let the mixture stand about 14 days, and then in the -apparatus incorporate it with the required quantity of alcohol. - -When the alcohol and volatile oils are intimately mixed, the mixture -is allowed to stand quietly for about 14 days, when solution of the -volatile oils will be complete. Now add, with vigorous agitation, -the rose water and the orange-blossom water, and let the whole stand -quietly to become clear. - -Cologne water thus carefully prepared answers all demands. Special -attention is here called to the fact that all manipulation by the -addition of fixing or conspicuous substances is injudicious. An -addition of tincture of musk or civet should particularly be avoided. -Nervous people immediately detect such additions, even if present only -in very small quantities, and in most cases refuse the Cologne water -containing them. - -Experience having shown that all alcoholic perfumes develop their -proper aroma only after storing for some time, provision must be made -to have always a sufficient supply of Cologne water on hand. It is best -to keep it in large glass balloons in a cool cellar. Wooden vessels -are impracticable on account of their permeability and other evils. -Metallic vessels, if used, should be tinned. Vessels defective in this -respect, or tinned with tin containing lead, exert an injurious effect -upon the aroma of the water. In the latter case, lead is dissolved, -even if only in small quantities, and a dirty precipitate injurious to -the odor of the Cologne water is formed. - -The filtering of the Cologne water is best effected through white -filtering paper and a glass funnel; the paper, however, should not -have been bleached with chlorine, the odor of the latter being readily -perceived and having an injurious effect upon the aroma of the water. -Filtering should be avoided as much as possible by carefully decanting -off the clear water and filtering the sediment only. Filtering through -charcoal, magnesia, or other clarifying agents, should not be made use -of for fine perfumes, their odor being injured by all such means. - -In the following a selection of receipts for Cologne water is given; -it is, however, especially mentioned that only good, pure materials -must be used even for the inferior qualities. A receipt for the now -fashionable "Maiglöckchen Eau de Cologne" is also given. - -_Cologne water, quality I._--Bring into a large glass balloon 95 to -96 per cent. alcohol of the best quality 7.9 gallons, lemon oil 14.11 -ozs., bergamot oil 15, neroli oil 4.23, French extra lavender oil 1.05 -oz., rosemary oil 0.7, best German balm oil 0.42; mix thoroughly, and -after 14 days add best orange-blossom water and rose water each 2.64 -quarts. Mix again thoroughly, and then let stand until wanted for use. - -_Cologne water, quality II._--Bring into a large glass balloon 95 to -96 per cent. alcohol of the best quality 7.9 gallons, lemon oil 10.58 -ozs., bergamot oil 12.34, neroli oil 1.76, French extra lavender oil -0.8, rosemary oil 0.63, finest German balm oil 0.35, French petit-grain -oil 0.8; mix thoroughly, and after 14 days add best orange-blossom -water and rose water each 2.64 quarts. Mix again thoroughly, and then -let stand until wanted for use. - -_Cologne water, quality III._--Bring into a large glass balloon 95 to -96 per cent. alcohol of the best quality 7.9 gallons, lemon oil 7.05 -ozs., bergamot oil 7.94, Portugal oil 3.52, French petit-grain oil -1.58, finest rosemary oil 0.52, lavender oil 0.7, orange-blossom water -and rose water each 1.58 quarts, distilled water 2.11 quarts. Proceed -in the same manner as given for qualities I and II. - -_Cologne water, quality IV._--Bring into a large glass balloon alcohol -free from fusel oil 7.9 gallons, lavender oil 2.64 ozs., Portugal -oil 2.64, petit-grain oil 0.7, rosemary oil 0.52, bergamot oil 3.52, -lemon oil 3.52, distilled water 7.9 quarts. If this quality, after -standing for some weeks, should not become clear, use some magnesia in -filtering, or use less water. - -_Cologne water, quality V._--Bring into a glass balloon alcohol free -from fusel oil 7.9 gallons, Portugal oil 0.88 oz., rosemary oil 0.88, -lavender oil, bergamot oil, and lemon oil each 1.76. After standing for -14 days, add 7.9 quarts of distilled water. Proceed in the same manner -as given for quality IV. - -_Maiglöckchen Eau de Cologne._--95 to 96 per cent. alcohol of the -finest quality 10.56 quarts, bergamot oil and lemon oil each 3.52 ozs., -neroli oil 0.7, French extra lavender oil 0.21, rosemary oil 0.14, best -German balm oil 0.7, ylang-ylang oil 0.17, _maiglöckchen_ (lily of the -valley) extract 2.11 pints. - -Dissolve the 0.17 oz. of ylang-ylang oil by itself in 0.8 pint of -alcohol of the best quality, and when the solution is entirely clear -add it to the rest in the balloon. After standing for 14 days add -carefully orange-blossom water and rose water each 1.05 pints; shake -thoroughly and let the mixture stand quietly until perfectly clear. - -_Various other receipts for Cologne water._--I. Bergamot oil 2 drachms, -oil of lemon 2 drachms, oil of origanum 6 drops, oil of rosemary 20 -drops, alcohol 1 pint, orange-flower water 1 oz. - -II. Bergamot oil 14 parts, citron oil 34, oil of neroli (petale) 20, -oil of neroli (bigarade) 7, rosemary oil 14, grape spirit 6000. - -III. Cologne spirits 3 quarts, oils of rosemary, bergamot, cedrat, and -lemon each 2 drachms, oil of neroli 1 drachm, water (warm) 2 pints; -mix, filter until clear. - -IV. Cologne spirits 3 quarts, oil of lemon 5 drachms, oil of bergamot 4 -drachms, Portugal oil 3¾ drachms, neroli oil ¾ drachm, petit-grain -oil and rosemary oil each ½ drachm, lavender oil 25 drops, oil of -cloves 6 drops, extract _Pomm. jasmine_ 4 ozs., water (warm) 32 ozs.; -mix. - -V. Cologne spirits 1 gallon, rosemary oil ½ oz., lemon oil 1 oz., -lavender oil 1½ ozs., cinnamon oil 20 drops, warm water 1 quart; mix. - -_Eau de Lavande._--For _eau de lavande_, but two receipts are given: -_Eau de vie de Lavande double ambrée_ and _eau de Lavande double_, the -former being a very agreeable perfume for toilet purposes, and is used -as an addition to wash-water as well as to baths and for fumigating. On -account of its balsamic constituents, _eau de Lavande ambrée_ in being -manufactured cannot be mixed with water, as the latter would produce -an emulsion which cannot be removed. _Eau de Lavande double_ is used -for the toilet, in the wash-water, or the bath. It is very popular, its -action upon the skin and nerves being refreshing and stimulating. - -_Eau de vie de Lavande double ambrée._--Alcohol of the best quality -5.18 quarts, best quality of lavender oil 3.52 ozs., French rose -geranium oil 0.7, oils of cassia, bergamot, lemon, and French petit -grain each 0.88, Peru balsam 5.29, orris-root tincture 2.11 quarts, -ambergris tincture 5.29 ozs., musk tincture 0.28, storax tincture 8.81, -tolu-balsam tincture 5.29, benzoin tincture 10.58. No water should be -added. - -_Eau de Lavande double._--Best quality of alcohol 10.56 quarts, best -lavender oil 8.81 ozs., Portugal oil and bergamot oil each 1.76. After -14 days add 2.11 pints of orange-blossom water. - -_Aqua mellis._--Coriander seed 7 lbs., cloves 12 ozs., storax 8 ozs., -nutmegs (bruised) 8 ozs., lemon-peel 10 ozs., calamus 6 ozs., proof -spirit 15 pints, water 8 pints. - -Macerate for a month in a closed vessel, then distil 22 pints, and to -the distillate add: Orange-flower water 5 pints, rose oil 24 drops, -ambergris 1 grain, vanilla 2 ozs. Macerate for 8 days and filter. - -_Eau de Lisbonne._--Lemon oil 2¼ ozs., Portugal oil 4½ ozs., rose oil -4¼ drachms, alcohol 5 quarts. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -DRY PERFUMES. - - -In ancient times dry perfumes were almost exclusively used, but, -independent of fumigating agents, which will be considered later on, -the consumption of dry or solid perfumes is at present a limited -one. Sachet powders (_poudres pour sachets_) are, however, still -manufactured in large quantities. The preparation of solid perfumes -with the assistance of paraffine has been recently commenced, but up -to the present time such perfumes have not become of any importance. -Smelling salts may also be classed among the dry perfumes. - - -SACHET POWDERS.--Sachet powders (_poudres pour sachets_) are generally -put into silk or satin bags or into ornamental paper envelopes and are -useful for perfuming clothes, drawers, trunks, desks, letter paper, etc. - -The incorporation of the powders with bags or envelopes is effected -by dividing them between thin layers of cotton, bringing the cotton -together with the powder in fine tissue paper into the shape of the -respective bag, cushion, etc., and then inclosing them in the bag or -envelope. - -A selection of receipts for such powders is here given. Their -manufacture is not difficult; however, the weighing off of the -constituents should be conscientiously done, and in mixing the powders -with the volatile oils, etc., care should be had not to cause any -unnecessary dust and consequent loss of powder. After mixing, the -powder is passed through a sieve. - -_Sachet à la rose._--Ground rose leaves, ground rose wood and -pulverized starch each 50 drachms, Turkish rose oil 1½, rose-geranium -oil 2½, oil of cloves 1, bergamot oil 2½, musk tincture 1. - -_Sachet à la violette._--Ground orris root 125 drachms, ground lavender -flowers and pulverized starch each 50, liquid orris-root oil[21] 2½, -sandal-wood oil ½, musk tincture 2, extrait violette 25. - - [21] The so-called liquid orris-root oil is not pure orris-root oil, - but generally a distillate of orris-root with bergamot oil; there - are, however, also products in which the orris root is distilled with - copaiba balsam oil and cedar oil. - -_Héliotrope sachet powder._--Ground lavender flowers 50 drachms, -ground orris root and ground rose leaves each 25, ground benzoin 10, -pulverized starch 50, bergamot oil 10, rose geranium oil 2½, oil -of cloves and musk tincture each 1½, vanilla tincture 12½, extrait -héliotrope 25, oil of bitter almonds 2 drops. - -_Ylang-ylang sachet powder._--Ground starch 100 drachms, orris-root -powder 25, ground lavender flowers 12½, ground vitivert root and ground -rose wood each 25, bergamot oil 2½, ylang-ylang oil 1, tinctures of -musk and of cumarin each 1½, extrait ylang-ylang 20. - -_Jockey club sachet._--Ground orris root, ground rose leaves and ground -rose wood each 50 drachms, ground lavender flowers 25, African rose -geranium oil 5, oils of Ceylon cinnamon and bergamot each 2½, oils of -cloves and cedar each 1, musk tincture 2½, civet tincture 1, extrait -jockey club 22½. - -_Sachet aux millefleurs._--Ground starch 50 drachms, ground orris -root, ground lavender flowers, ground rose wood, and exhausted vanilla -pulverized, each 50 drachms, pulverized cloves 20, bergamot oil and -African geranium oil each 2½, verbena oil 1, tincture of benzoin and -musk root each 5, musk tincture 5. - -_Lily of the valley sachet powder._--Pulverized starch 50 drachms, -ground orris root 25, ground lavender flowers and ground rose wood -each 12½, ground vitivert root and ground benzoin each 25, bergamot -oil 5, wintergreen oil 2, ylang-ylang oil and angelica oil each ½, -bitter almond oil 2 drops, storax tincture 5 drachms, musk tincture 1½, -extrait muguet 25. - -_Patchouli sachet powder._--Ground patchouli leaves 100, ground rose -leaves and ground lavender flowers, each 25, patchouli oil 2½, oil of -cloves 1, bergamot oil and African geranium oil each 2½. - -_Frangipani sachet powder._--Pulverized starch 25 drachms, ground orris -root 75, ground rose leaves 50, ground lavender flowers 25, Portugal -oil 5, petit-grain oil and African geranium oil, 2½, Ceylon cinnamon -oil 1½, musk tincture 2½, civet tincture 1½, tinctures of cumarin and -vitivert each 10. - -_Victoria sachet powder._--Ground lavender flowers 50 drachms, ground -rose wood and ground rose leaves each 25, ground orange peel 12½, -ground benzoin 25, ground vitivert root 12½, Turkish rose oil 1, -bergamot oil 2½, oils of cloves and verbena each 1, musk tincture 1½, -civet tincture 1. - -_Réséda sachet powder._--Ground orris root 100 drachms, ground rose -leaves 50, ground rose wood 25, clove oil, African geranium oil, and -bergamot oil each 2½, musk-root tincture 10, vanilla tincture 5, musk -tincture 1, extrait réséda 25. - -_Musk sachet powder._--Ground musk root, ground exhausted musk sacs, -and ground lavender flowers, each 50 drachms, ground benzoin 25, cassia -oil, palma-rose oil, and clove oil each 2½, musk tincture 22½. - -_Ess-bouquet sachet powder._--Ground rose wood and ground lavender -flowers each 50 drachms, ground vitivert root 25, ground opopanax 12½, -ground orris root 25, bergamot oil and lemon oil each 2½, clove oil -1, Ceylon cinnamon oil 1½, African geranium oil 2½, sandal-wood oil -and licari oil each 1, musk tincture 2½, civet tincture 1½, extrait -ess-bouquet 25. - -_New-mown hay sachet powder._--Pulverized starch 25 drachms, ground -rose leaves and ground lavender flowers, each 50, ground orris root and -ground benzoin, each 25, bergamot oil 5, angelica oil and Java cananga -oil each 1½, tonka-bean extract 7½, musk tincture 1½, vitivert tincture -7½. - -_Orange sachet powder._--Ground orange peels 100 drachms, ground lemon -peels 50, ground lavender flowers 25, Portugal oil 10, neroli oil and -petit grain oil each 1½, bergamot oil 2½, musk-tincture 1½, musk-root -tincture 10. - - -SOLID PERFUMES WITH PARAFFINE. The solid perfumes simply consist of -hard paraffine, which, when melted, is perfumed with a corresponding -quantity of any desired perfume-essence and poured into moulds. A few -mixtures for such perfumes are here given:-- - -_White rose._--Rose geranium oil and bergamot oil each 10 drachms, -patchouli oil and oil of cloves 1½. - -_Ess-bouquet._--Coriander oil 1 drachm, oil of cloves 7, nutmeg oil -3.5, lavender oil 10, sandal-wood oil 3.5, bergamot oil 30, rose oil -and rose-geranium oil each 2, neroli oil 0.6. - -_Lavender odor._--Lavender oil 50 drachms, bergamot oil 25, cinnamon -oil 0.3, geranium oil 2.5, neroli oil 0.5. - -_Eau de Cologne._--Bergamot oil and lime oil each 30 drachms, lemon oil -and neroli oil each 15, rosemary oil 5, rose geranium oil 0.6. - - -SMELLING SALTS. Smelling salts are ammoniacal perfumes in a solid form, -Preston salt (_sel de Preston_) being one of the most popular. It is -generally prepared by intimately rubbing together in a porcelain mortar -equal parts of sal ammoniac or ammonium carbonate and lime freshly -slaked to a powder, and perfuming the mixture, according to the quality -of volatile salts desired, with a finer or inferior perfume. - -William W. Bartlett prepares Preston salt without lime according to -the following receipt: Powdered chloride of ammonium 1½ ozs., powdered -carbonate of potassium 1 oz. 6 drachms, coarsely powdered carbonate of -ammonium 3 drachms, oils of clove and bergamot each 10 drops. - -Mr. Bartlett also gives a formula for a "_menthol pungent_" which is -quite agreeable to the smell and a novelty for headache and faintness. -It is prepared by leaving out the essential oils in the above formula -and substituting in their place 1 drachm of menthol. - -_White smelling_ salt consists essentially of perfumed carbonate of -ammonia. There are several receipts for it, one frequently used being -as follows: Mix in a capacious porcelain mortar 2.2 lbs. of ammonium -carbonate with 1.1 lb. of ammonia, cover the mortar and let it stand -quietly. In the course of a few days the contents have been converted -into normal carbonate of ammonia. The latter is reduced to a coarse -powder and perfumed with bergamot oil 0.56 drachm, lavender oil 0.9, -nutmeg oil, clove oil, and rose oil each 0.28, cinnamon oil 2.82. - -The incorporation of the volatile oils is effected by first triturating -about 1/10 of the salt with the volatile oils and then gradually -incorporating with this perfumed mass the rest of the salt, a uniform -distribution of the odor being in this manner effected. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - -FUMIGATING ESSENCES, PASTILLES, POWDERS, ETC. - - -Fumigating agents are divided into liquid and dry, the first being -alcoholic solutions, and perhaps most popular. They consist of -extractions from resins, balsams, leaves, flowers, seeds, wood, and -roots, compounded with volatile oils, alcohol, and alcoholic extracts -from French flower pomades. - -It should be the aim of the perfumer to compound these substances so -that a harmonious blending together of all the ingredients is attained. -The object of fumigating living rooms, sleeping rooms, and sick -chambers is not only to make abode in these rooms more agreeable by an -attempt to cover the disagreeable odors, but chiefly to render them -innoxious, thus combining the useful with the agreeable. - -For several years past a strong prejudice against fumigating has been -developed. Such prejudice may be justified in certain cases, especially -when the fumigating agents contain musk or are otherwise incorrectly -composed. An addition of musk, even in very small quantities, causes -nervous persons to dislike fumigating agents containing it, because it -is a well-known fact that musk excites the nerves in a high degree, and -hence in most cases fumigating with agents containing it does more harm -than good. - -The mode of fumigating has also to be taken into consideration. It -is, for instance, entirely incorrect to place the fumigating agent -upon very hot iron, a hot stovepipe, or glowing coals, because in -evaporating upon hot iron, it leaves behind an empyreumatic, pungent -odor excitatory to cough, while the actual aroma is lost and thus the -object of fumigating is frustrated. - -To derive the best effects from the fumigating agent it should be -placed upon a moderately warm article so that it will slowly evaporate. -Liquid fumigating agents may also be mixed in a porcelain vessel with -distilled water. By placing the vessel upon a warm stove, evaporation -proceeds at a still slower rate, because the fumigating agent can only -evaporate together with the water, whereby its aroma becomes still more -agreeable. The use of rose water or orange water instead of distilled -water considerably enhances the success of fumigating. - -The so-called atomizers may here be mentioned. They are very -practicable for cold fumigating, _i. e._, for the distribution of pine -odor, Cologne water, etc. On account of their content of musk the -atomization of _Extraits d'Odeurs_ in the presence of nervous people -cannot be recommended. - -The dry fumigating agents, such as powders, pastilles, paper, and -lacquer, are less popular than the fluid, it being necessary for the -purpose of fumigating to place them upon hot articles, heat them, -or burn them. These manipulations develop more or less smoke, which -frequently exerts a disagreeable effect upon the respiratory organs. -The most injurious of these methods of hot fumigation is that by means -of hot coals, whereby the aroma of the fumigating agent is largely -destroyed, and the very injurious gas emanating from the coals is -inhaled. A heated piece of sheet-iron is, however, very suitable for -fumigation by means of powder or lacquer. Scatter the powder upon it or -coat it with the lacquer. - -Several approved receipts for liquid and dry fumigating agents are here -given. - - -FUMIGATING ESSENCES AND VINEGARS. Great care should be exercised in -making the following receipts for liquid fumigating agents. After -mixing, shake thoroughly, and let the product stand quietly for at -least several weeks, the aroma of all alcoholic perfumes being improved -by storing for some time. It need scarcely be said that alcohol of the -finest quality is to be used, since, if it contains fusel oil, the -attainment of a fine product is absolutely impossible. To decrease the -cost of manufacture, it might be permissible to increase the proportion -of alcohol, but an inferior quality of it should, under no conditions, -be employed. - -_Rose-flower fumigating essence._--Alcohol, extract No. 1, from -French-rose pomade and benzoin tincture each 1 quart, musk-root -tincture No. 1, 8¾ ozs., Turkish rose oil and clove oil each 2¾ -drachms, French rose-geranium oil 5½ drachms. Dissolve the rose oil in -the other volatile oils. - -_Flower fumigating essence, héliotrope._--Alcohol and extract No. 1 -from French héliotrope pomade each 1 quart, vanilla tincture No. 1 and -orris-root tincture each 1 pint, tinctures of benzoin and tolu balsam -each ½ pint, musk-root tincture No. 1, 7 ozs., cumarin tincture 5¼ -ozs., Portugal oil 1 oz., French rose-geranium oil 11¼ drachms, clove -oil 5½ drachms, best lavender oil 11¼ drachms. - -_Violet flower fumigating essence._--Alcohol 1 quart, extracts No. 1 -from French-violet pomade and cassie pomade each 1 pint, orris-root -tincture No. 1, 1 quart, benzoin tincture 1 pint, storax tincture ¼ -pint, abelmosk tincture No. 1, 4¼ ozs., ambergris tincture 11¼ drachms, -orris-root oil 2¾ drachms, bergamot oil 11¼ drachms, best lavender -oil 5½ drachms, myrrh oil 1½ drachms, basil oil 2¾ drachms. - -_Oriental-flower fumigating essence._--Alcohol 1 quart, extract from -French-rose pomade 17½ ozs., extracts from French-jasmine pomade, -jonquille pomade, héliotrope pomade and cassie pomades each 7 ozs., -vanilla tincture 7 ozs., tinctures of orris root, tonka beans, and musk -root each 3½ ozs., benzoin tincture 8½ ozs., tolu-balsam tincture 4¼ -ozs., storax tincture 5¼ ozs., olibanum tincture 3½ ozs., ambergris -tincture and bergamot oil each 1¾ ozs., Ceylon cinnamon oil 5½ -drachms, best lavender oil 11 ozs., Turkish rose oil and clove oil each -5½ drachms, neroli oil 2¼ drachms, Peru balsam 3½ ozs. - -_Pine odor_ (_for atomizing_) No. 1.--Alcohol 2 quarts, pine oil (from -_Pinus picea_) 7 ozs., bergamot oil 5½ drachms. - -_Pine odor_ (_for atomizing_) No. 2.--Alcohol 2 quarts, dwarf-pine oil -(from _Pinus pumilio_) 5¼ ozs., oil of lemons 5½ drachms. - -_Juniper odor._--Alcohol 2 quarts, extra fine juniper berry oil 3½ -ozs., best lavender oil 5½ drachms, juniper tincture 8¾ ozs. - -Pine odor or juniper odor may also be mixed in a vessel with water, and -thus used for fumigating. - -_Fumigating balsam._--Alcohol 3 quarts, orris-root tincture 1 quart, -tinctures of benzoin, tolu balsam, and storax each 17½ ozs., olibanum -tincture 8¾ ozs., tinctures of abelmosk and musk-root each 3½ ozs., -vanilla tincture 1¾ ozs., Peru balsam 4¼ ozs., bergamot oil 1¾ -ozs., lemon oil 14 drachms, African rose geranium oil 11¼ drachms, -clove oil and cassia oil each 14 drachms, petit-grain oil 11¼ drachms, -fine lavender oil 1¾ ozs. - -_Fumigating water._--Alcohol 10 quarts, orris-root tincture No. 2, -tinctures of storax, benzoin, and tolu balsam each 1 quart, abelmosk -tincture No. 2, 7 ozs., olibanum tincture 8¾ ozs., Peru balsam and -lavender oil each 3½ ozs., cassia oil and bergamot oil each 1 oz., -thyme oil ½ oz., clove oil and palmarosa oil each 1 oz. - -_Fumigating vinegar._--Alcohol 2 quarts, orris-root tincture 1 quart, -benzoin tincture 1 pint, tinctures of tolu balsam and storax each ½ -pint, musk-root tincture 4¼ ozs., tinctures of vitivert and vanilla -each 3½ ozs., Peru balsam 1¾ ozs., lavender oil and clove oil each -8¼ drachms, Ceylon cinnamon oil and African rose-geranium oil each 5½ -drachms, acetic acid 4¼ ozs. - - -FUMIGATING POWDERS. The lavender flowers, marigold flowers (_Calendula -officinalis_), rose leaves, etc., used in the preparation of fumigating -powders are not pulverized, but so far comminuted with a suitable -instrument as to form a distinctly colored mixture. To dissolve the -volatile oils, they are thoroughly mixed with the alcoholic extracts -mentioned in the receipts. The perfume thus obtained is finally -incorporated with the powders by rubbing together with the hands. To -prevent loss of perfume, it is mixed with the powders in a porcelain or -enamelled vessel. - -_Ordinary fumigating powder._--Lavender flowers, marigold flowers, -corn flowers, rose leaves, rasped orris root each 2 lbs., cloves and -cinnamon each 3½ ozs., rasped sanders wood 17½ ozs., rasped cedar -wood 8¾ ozs., fumigating balsam 17½ ozs., bergamot oil and African -rose-geranium oil each 1¾ ozs., lavender oil 11¼ drachms. - -Besides the above-mentioned dry constituents, the residues from -odoriferous substances, such as vanilla, orris root, vitivert root, -juniper berries, etc., employed in the preparation of tinctures may be -used for ordinary fumigating powders. - -_Rose fumigating powder._--Rose leaves and rose wood each 2 lbs., -lavender flowers and sanders wood each 1 lb., corn flowers ½ -lb., tinctures of musk root and abelmosk each 1¾ ozs., African -rose-geranium oil 1 oz., Turkish rose oil 2¾ drachms, bergamot oil -8¼ drachms, clove oil 2¾ drachms, nutmeg oil 1½ drachms, extract -from French rose pomade 3½ ozs. - -_Violet fumigating powder._--Rasped orris root 4 lbs., lavender flowers -and rasped sanders wood each 1 lb., orris-root tincture, abelmosk -tincture, and bergamot oil each 1¾ ozs., orris-root oil, basil oil, -and Ceylon-cinnamon oil each 2¾ drachms, extract from French cassie -pomade 1¾ ozs. - -_Orange fumigating powder._--Orange peels 4 lbs., orange flowers and -marigold flowers each 1 lb., musk-root tincture and Portugal oil each -1¾ ozs., petit-grain oil 5½ drachms, bergamot oil 11 drachms, -extract from French orange flower pomade 3½ ozs. - -_New-mown hay fumigating powder._--Lavender flowers 2 lbs., -rose-leaves, rasped sanders wood, and rasped orris root each 1 lb., -powdered benzoin, Roman camomile, curled mint and balm each ½ lb., -exhausted tonka beans 1 lb., patchouli leaves and bergamot oil each -11¼ drachms, African rose-geranium oil 8¼ drachms, tonka-bean extract -and abelmosk tincture each 1¾ ozs., extract from French réséda -pomade 3½ ozs. - - -FUMIGATING PAPER. Bring into a capacious shallow dish a quantity of -fumigating balsam and repeatedly draw sheets of card-board through it, -allowing the sheets to thoroughly drain off and dry after each drawing -through. After repeating the operation about four times, the sheets -will be sufficiently perfumed and are then coated by means of a fine -brush with a solution of gum-arabic in rose water. This gives to the -sheets a dull lustre, while the thin layer of gum-arabic also prevents -the volatilization of the aroma. The sheets thus perfumed are cut up -into pieces the size of a playing card, and six to twelve such pieces -put up in an envelope. For use the paper is not ignited, but only -heated. With one such piece a room can be several times perfumed. It -may be remarked that before perfuming, the name of the firm, directions -for use, etc., are generally printed upon the card-board. - - -FUMIGATING PASTILLES. Some perfumers make more or less a specialty of -the manufacture of fumigating pastilles. They are generally of a red or -black color, different perfumes, names and qualities. - -To prepare them, the finely pulverized substances are passed through a -sieve and mixed in a capacious dish with the volatile oils, tinctures, -etc. The mixture of powder and perfume is then made into a mass with -a mucilage of gum tragacanth, which is thoroughly kneaded to make it -homogeneous. - -The saltpetre given in the receipts is dissolved by itself in -distilled water and last of all added to the mass. Its object is to -keep the pastilles burning after ignition. - -As regards the mucilage of gum-tragacanth, it may be said that it -readily spoils, especially in summer. When it begins to get watery -it is already useless and soon acquires a bad odor; by decomposition -it loses its cementing power. Hence only a sufficient quantity for -immediate use should be made at one time. - -The moulding of the pastilles is very simple. A number of tin cones -into which the mass is pressed are used for the purpose. After standing -for a short time the pastilles are taken from the moulds and allowed to -dry. - -_Ordinary red fumigating pastilles._--Pulverized sanders wood and -pulverized Sumatra benzoin each 2 lbs., finely pulverized sandarac -and olibanum each 1 lb., saltpetre 4¼ ozs. dissolved in distilled -water; clove oil 5½ drachms, palmarosa oil 11 drachms, lavender oil 14 -drachms. Mucilage of gum-tragacanth as much as required. - -_Ordinary black fumigating pastilles._--Charcoal 2 lbs., finely -pulverized Sumatra benzoin 2 lbs., finely pulverized olibanum 1 lb., -saltpetre 4¼ ozs., dissolved in distilled water; lavender oil, cassia -oil, and citronella oil each 11¼ drachms. Mucilage of gum-tragacanth as -much as required. - -_Musk fumigating pastilles._--Pulverized genuine linden charcoal 2 -lbs., pulverized musk root and orris root each 1 lb., pulverized -sanders wood, Siam benzoin, and abelmosk each ½ lb., saltpetre 4¼ -ozs., dissolved in distilled water; Tonkin musk 1½ drachms, triturated -in distilled water; African-rose geranium oil, Portugal and cedar oil -each 5½ drachms. Mucilage of gum-tragacanth as much as required. - -_Rose fumigating pastilles._--Pulverized sanders wood 2 lbs., powdered -sandarac and Siam benzoin each 1 lb., carmine, dissolved in rose -water, 1½ drachms; saltpetre 3½ ozs., bergamot oil 5½ drachms, clove -oil, Turkish rose oil, and French rose-geranium oil each 2.75 drachms. -Gum-tragacanth dissolved in rose water as much as required. - -_Violet fumigating pastilles._--Powdered orris root 2 lbs., pulverized -sanders wood 1 lb., pulverized Siam benzoin and opopanax each ½ lb., -saltpetre 3½ ozs., dissolved in distilled water; tolu-balsam tincture -3½ ozs., orris-root oil and bergamot oil each 5½ drachms, myrrh oil -2¾ drachms. Mucilage of gum-tragacanth as much as required. - -_Millefleurs fumigating pastilles._--Pulverized linden charcoal 2 lbs., -pulverized sanders wood, Siam benzoin, and orris root each 1 lb., -pulverized olibanum ½ lb.; saltpetre 4¼ ozs., dissolved in distilled -water; bergamot oil and African rose-geranium oil each 14 drachms, -Ceylon cinnamon oil, Paraguay petit-grain oil, and juniper-berry oil -each 5½ drachms, Peru balsam 1¾ ozs., civet tincture 5½ drachms, -musk-root tincture 3½ ozs. Mucilage of gum-tragacanth as much as -required. - -_Fumigating lacquer._--Fumigating lacquer consists chiefly of resins, -to which sufficient liquid storax is added to render the mass plastic, -so that sticks of any desired length and thickness can be formed -therefrom. - -The resins and licorice mentioned in the receipt given below are -gradually and very carefully melted in an iron pan over a gas or -petroleum flame. To prevent the resins from scorching, the bottom of -the pan must constantly be kept free with a small iron spatula. When -the mass is perfectly fluid the Frankfort black is added, and the whole -thoroughly worked until no more lumps of Frankfort black are present. -The pan is then taken from the fire, and, after allowing the mass to -cool somewhat, it is perfumed with the thoroughly mixed perfume. - -A lithographic stone, not too small, is used for giving the fumigating -lacquer a round form. The stone is rubbed with a rag moistened with a -very small quantity of olive oil. A small portion of the still very -warm mass is then poured upon the stone and rolled with the hands, -which should also be moistened with a little olive oil, into sticks of -desired thickness. The sticks are cut into the desired lengths while -the lacquer is still warm, and the operation is thus continued until -the entire mass is worked up. The mass in the pan must, of course, be -constantly kept liquid. - -Siam benzoin, olibanum, and myrrh each 8¾ ozs., storax as free from -water as possible 3½ ozs., licorice 17½ ozs., Peru balsam 3½ ozs., -Frankfort black 5¼ ozs., bergamot oil 14 drachms, African rose-geranium -oil, cassia oil, juniper-berry oil, and eucalyptus oil each 11¼ -drachms. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - -DENTIFRICES, MOUTH-WATERS, ETC. - - -For cleansing and preserving the teeth and gums, _soaps_, _powders_, -and _tinctures_ are used, and for removing foul breath, _mouth-waters_. - -Great care is required in compounding dentifrices and mouth-waters, -and special attention must be paid to the correct selection of the -material. The substances used must be chemically pure, and no caustic -or sharp or grating materials, such as pumice, sand, _ossa sepiæ_, -etc., should be employed, they destroying the enamel of the teeth. - -The coloring substances used to give the dentifrices and mouth-waters -a pleasing appearance should under no condition be injurious or -poisonous, such as, for instance, brilliant rosa, cinnabar, aniline, -chrome yellow, picric acid, etc. The perfumes have also to be carefully -selected, and all repugnant volatile oils and tinctures, such as -bitter-almond oil, sandal-wood oil, musk tincture, etc., should -be avoided. On the other hand, peppermint oil forms the principal -constituent of the perfume for most dentifrices and mouth-waters, this -preference being not only due to its agreeable odor, but chiefly to its -pleasant, refreshing, and stimulating action upon our organs. - -In accordance with recent medical directions and opinions soap is -again employed, and justly so, for the better cleansing of the teeth, -whilst formerly it was generally considered injurious. However, though -soap is innocuous to the teeth, it should be used in very limited -quantities, since its introduction into the mouth is repugnant to many -persons, producing in many cases vomiting. The quality of the soap must -also be taken into consideration, and only the best neutral soap in -the form of a powder, such as is used for fine milled soaps, should be -employed. - -The alcohol used for the tooth and mouth-waters--more correctly -tinctures--should be perfectly free from fusel oil, and of 95 to 96 per -cent. strength. The best qualities of volatile oils should be taken, -and the tinctures prepared with the greatest care. - -The dentifrices for preventing caries, among which the thymol -preparations are the most prominent, deserve special attention. The -most celebrated physicians have long since recognized thymol as -an antiseptic, it being much used in hospitals, and is frequently -preferred to carbolic acid. For this reason thymol preparations should -be used for preserving the teeth. They render good service, especially -in the case of hollow teeth, as they remove the foul odor and protect -the sound teeth from becoming hollow. For cleansing artificial teeth -thymol tooth-water can be especially recommended. Great care should, -therefore, be exercised in the preparation of these thymol dentifrices. -On the other hand, according to medical opinions, dentifrices -containing salicylic acid cannot be recommended, the acid, it is -claimed, being very injurious to the enamel of the teeth. - -Glycerin, which occurs in several receipts for dentifrices and -mouth-waters, fulfills a double object; on the one hand, its action -upon the teeth and mouth is beneficial, and, on the other, it covers -the naturally bitter taste of many substances contained in the -preparations, and thus makes them more agreeable to use. - -The receipts for dentifrices and mouth-waters here given have been -thoroughly tested, and can be highly recommended. - -_Tooth and mouth waters._ _Thymol tooth-water._--Alcohol of best -quality 5 quarts, chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 17½ ozs., -crystallized thymol 1 oz., white thyme oil and best peppermint oil each -1¼ ozs., tinctures of arnica and guaiacum each 1¾ ozs., cochineal -tincture, for coloring, 2¾ to 3½ ozs. - -Bring all the ingredients into a glass balloon, shake thoroughly, and -protect the liquid from sunlight. - -The cochineal tincture is prepared from 14 ozs. of cochineal and 1 -quart of alcohol of best quality, the arnica tincture from 2 lbs. of -arnica root and 2½ quarts of alcohol of best quality, and the guaiacum -tincture from 5¼ ozs. of guaiacum-wood and 1 quart of alcohol of best -quality. - -_Eau dentifrice Botot._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, chemically -pure glycerin of 28° B. 17¾ ozs., peppermint oil 2 ozs., clove oil -11 drachms, anise-seed oil 5 drachms, ratany tincture and vanilla -tincture each 5¼ ozs., Peruvian bark tincture 1¾ ozs., sanders-wood -tincture, as coloring matter, 3½ ozs. Proceed as above. - -The sanders-wood tincture is prepared by macerating 5¼ ozs. of red -sanders wood with 1 quart of alcohol. - -_Eau dentifrice Orientale._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, -peppermint oil and rose-geranium oil each 1¼ ozs., clove oil 11¼ -drachms, _extrait rose_ and ratany tincture each 3½ ozs., vanilla -tincture 1¾ ozs. Proceed as above and color rose color with corallin -tincture. - -The ratany tincture is prepared from 17½ ozs. of ratany root and 1 -quart alcohol, and the corallin tincture from 17½ ozs. of corallin and -1 quart alcohol. - -_Violet mouth-water._--Tincture of benzoin 7 parts, tincture of ratany -30, tincture of myrrh 60, rose water 250, tincture of orris root 500, -alcohol 250. - -_Antiseptic gargle._--The following solution is recommended for -sterilizing the mouth after the teeth have been cleansed with a -tooth-brush and soap: Thymol 3½ grains, benzoic acid 45, tincture of -eucalyptus 180, water 1½ pints. - -_Odontine._--Exhaust 3 ozs. of pulverized myrrh with a mixture of -25 ozs. of alcohol and 8 ozs. of water. Then dissolve 1½ ozs. of -Castile soap shavings in a mixture of 25 ozs. of alcohol and 8 ozs. of -water, and color wine-red with alkannin. Then add lemon oil 30 drops, -peppermint oil 30 drops, wintergreen oil 10 drops, star-anise oil 30 -drops, and finally 4 ozs. of glycerin. After allowing the whole to -stand in a cool place for one or two weeks, filter, mix the filtrate -with 10 drachms of acetic ether, and fill in bottles. - -_Sozodont._--White Castile soap ½ oz., oil of peppermint 5 drops, oil -of wintergreen 12 drops, glycerin ½ oz., water 1 oz., alcohol 2 ozs., -cochineal tincture sufficient to color. - -_Eau de Botot_ (_improved_).--Cloves, star-anise, and soap bark, each -2½ drachms, cochineal 1½ drachms. Pulverize and percolate with the -following mixture: Alcohol 20 ozs., rose water 4 ozs. To the percolate -add: Cream of tartar 45 grains, oil of peppermint 1½ drachms. Filter. - -_Quinine tooth-water._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, peppermint -oil 1 oz., clove oil ½ oz., Ceylon cinnamon oil 2¾ drachms, -Peruvian bark-tincture 8¾ ozs., guaiacum-tincture 3½ ozs., myrrh -tincture 1.75 ozs., glycerine of 28° B. 17½ ozs. Proceed as above. - -The Peruvian bark-tincture is prepared by macerating 8¾ ozs. of -Peruvian bark in 1 quart of alcohol of best quality. - -_Dr. Stahl's tooth-tincture._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, -peppermint oil 1¾ ozs., clove oil 5½ drachms, French rose-geranium -oil 8¼ drachms, vanilla-tincture 5¼ ozs., guaiacum-tincture 3½ ozs., -benzoin tincture 8¾ ozs., henna-tincture, as coloring matter, 8¾ -ozs. - -Bring all the ingredients into a glass bottle, shake thoroughly and -protect the mixture from sunlight. The tincture, when mixed with water, -gives an emulsion. - -The henna-tincture is obtained by macerating 17½ ozs. of henna-root in -4 quarts of alcohol. - -_Esprit de menthe._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, peppermint oil -4¼ ozs. - -_Arnica tooth-tincture._--Alcohol of best quality and arnica-tincture -each 1 quart, Peruvian bark-tincture 1 pint, glycerin of 28° B. 5¼ -ozs., cochineal tincture, as coloring matter, 1¾ ozs. - -_Myrrh tooth-tincture._--Alcohol of best quality 1 quart, myrrh -tincture 2 quarts, guaiacum-tincture 8¾ ozs. - -A few remarks may here be made regarding the use of tooth tinctures. -The tinctures should not be used undiluted, they being apt to make -tender gums sore, cause pain, and may even produce inflammation. It is -best to dilute the tinctures somewhat with water whereby they become -milder and more agreeable to the gums. An excellent article for rinsing -out the mouth is obtained by pouring a teaspoonful of the tincture into -a tumbler of water. - - -TOOTH-PASTES AND TOOTH-POWDERS. _Tooth-paste or odontine, No. -1._--Carbonate of magnesium 6 lbs., sugar of milk 2 lbs., precipitated -carbonate of calcium 4 lbs., alizarin, to color, 1¾ ozs., best -soap-powder 7 ozs., powdered gum-arabic 5¼ ozs., sugar 17½ ozs. -dissolved in distilled water 2½ quarts, chemically pure glycerin of 28° -B. 17½ ozs., peppermint oil 8¾ ozs., clove oil 8¼ drachms. - -Pass the magnesia, sugar of milk, carbonate of calcium, alizarin, -soap-powder and gum-arabic through a fine sieve and mix intimately; -dissolve the sugar in the distilled water and add the glycerin to the -solution. Bring the sifted powders into a mortar or other convenient -vessel, gradually add the fluid and thoroughly mix with the hands. -Then add the perfume, and convert the whole into a solid paste with a -wooden pestle. Instead of mixing and working the mass in a mortar, the -operation is much more rapidly performed by passing the mixture through -the rolls of a soap mill, which must, of course, be thoroughly cleansed -for the purpose by washing with water. - -_Tooth-paste or odontine, No. 2._--Carbonate of magnesium and sugar -of milk each 2 lbs., precipitated carbonate of calcium 4 lbs., -prepared chalk 10 lbs., sugar 4 lbs. dissolved in water 5 quarts, best -soap-powder 2 lbs., alizarin, as coloring matter, 7 ozs., peppermint -oil 10½ ozs., clove oil 8¾ ozs. - -This paste is prepared in the same manner as No. 1, only the -proportion of water has to be taken into consideration. To prevent the -mass from becoming too soft, the water should be very gradually added. - -_Thymol tooth-paste._--Carbonate of magnesium 4 lbs., sugar of milk -2 lbs., pulverized gum-arabic and soap powder each 3½ ozs., carmine -nacarat, as coloring matter, 2¾ drachms, and alizarin, as coloring -matter, 6¾ drachms, sugar 10½ ozs., dissolved in distilled water -1¾ quarts, peppermint oil 1¼ ozs., white thyme oil 2½ ozs., -crystallized thymol 1¼ ozs., arnica tincture 7 ozs. The thyme oil, -peppermint oil and arnica tincture are brought into a bottle and the -thymol is dissolved in the mixture. By previously converting the thymol -to a coarse powder solution takes place quite rapidly. The further -manipulation is the same as given for tooth-paste No. 1. - -_Cherry tooth-paste._--Boil briskly 1 oz. potassium carbonate and 1 oz. -of powdered cochineal in a pint of water until reduced to 12 or 13 ozs. -When cold, add 1 oz. cream of tartar, ½ oz. alum, 2 ozs. glycerin, -and water sufficient to make 16 ozs. of filtered solution. Then add 4 -ozs. of honey and set aside a few days to see if fermentation occurs. -Carefully mix the liquid with 2 lbs. prepared chalk, 1¾ ozs. orris -powder and ¾ ozs. cassia powder. - -_Non-fermenting cherry tooth-paste._--Fine powdered pumice stone 2 -ozs., powdered orris root 2 ozs., powdered myrrh ½ oz., honey 4 ozs., -sufficient liquid cochineal to color, oil of cloves ½ drachm, essence -of lemon 1½ drachms, rose oil 8 drops. Mix well. - -_Odontine paste._--French chalk 30 drachms, soap 15, sugar 15, -gum-arabic 2, peppermint oil 2, glycerin 8, water 8. Work into a paste. - -_Thymol tooth-powder._--Sugar of milk and carbonate of magnesium each 2 -lbs., precipitated carbonate of calcium 1 lb., best soap-powder 7 ozs., -alizarin, as coloring matter, and crystallized thymol, each 1 oz., -glycerin of 28° B. 5¼ ozs., arnica tincture 7 ozs., white thyme oil 1½ -ozs., peppermint oil 11¼ drachms. - -Thoroughly mix--preferably in a capacious enamelled vessel--the -powdered and colored ingredients, add the thymol dissolved in the -mixture of the volatile oils, arnica tincture and glycerin, rub and -uniformly mix the whole with the hands, so that no specks of coloring -matter and perfume are perceptible, and then again pass through a fine -sieve. - -Tooth powder is best kept in well closed tin boxes; boxes of wood or -paste-board are not suitable for the purpose, the powder, when kept in -them, losing in quality. - -The above explanations refer to all the following tooth powders:-- - -_Poudre dentifrice._--Precipitated carbonate of calcium 2 lbs., -carbonate of magnesium 1 lb., sugar of milk 1½ lbs., fine soap-powder -5¼ ozs., alizarin, as coloring matter, 5¼ ozs., peppermint oil 2 ozs., -clove oil 5½ drachms, Ceylon cinnamon oil 2¾ drachms, rose-geranium -oil 5½ drachms, vanilla tincture 1¾ ozs. Proceed as given for thymol -tooth-powder. - -_Violet tooth-powder._--Orris-root powder 3 lbs., carbonate of -magnesium 1 lb., sugar of milk 1½ lbs., best soap-powder 5¼ ozs., -Portugal oil and peppermint oil each 1 oz., ratany tincture 3½ ozs. -Proceed as given for thymol tooth-powder. - -_Dr. Hufeland's tooth-powder._--Pulverized sanders wood, Peruvian bark, -and precipitated carbonate of calcium each 2 lbs., best soap-powder -7 ozs., bergamot oil and Portugal oil each 11 drachms, clove oil and -cassia oil each 14 drachms, myrrh tincture 1¾ ozs. Proceed as given -for thymol tooth-powder. - -_White tooth-powder._--Carbonate of magnesium, precipitated carbonate -of calcium, and prepared chalk each 1 lb., soap-powder 3½ ozs., -peppermint oil 1 oz., clove oil 5½ drachms. Proceed as given for thymol -tooth-powder. - -_Black tooth-powder._--Finely pulverized linden charcoal 2 lbs., -precipitated carbonate of calcium 1 lb., best soap-powder 3½ ozs., -peppermint oil 1¾ ozs., clove oil 8¼ drachms, guaiacum tincture 3½ -ozs. Proceed as given for thymol tooth-powder. - -_Poudre de corail._--Carbonate of magnesium 1 lb., sugar of milk 7 -ozs., prepared chalk 1 lb., best soap-powder 7 ozs., alizarin 3½ ozs., -peppermint oil 1¾ ozs., clove oil 5½ drachms, cassia oil 2¾ -drachms. Proceed as given for thymol tooth-powder. - -_Camphor tooth-powder._--Prepared chalk and precipitated carbonate -of calcium each 1 lb., best soap-powder 2½ ozs., peppermint oil 5½ -drachms, camphor 1 oz. dissolved in the necessary quantity of alcohol -of best quality. - -Thoroughly mix all the ingredients and pass the mixture through a fine -sieve. This tooth-powder should be used only every 5 or 6 days; when -too frequently used it affects the nerves. - -_Opiat liquide pour les dents._--Genuine honey 1½ lbs., sugar syrup 2½ -ozs., best wheat flour 7 ozs., round-lake 2 ozs., peppermint oil and -clove oil each 11¼ drachms. - -Convert the round-lake into a fine powder and pass it through a fine -sieve into a capacious porcelain dish. Then intimately mix it with the -wheat flour, gradually add the honey and syrup, and after thoroughly -working the mass for about ¼ hour, add the volatile oil. Now work -the whole thoroughly with the pestle, then cover the dish, and after -allowing it to stand quietly for about 36 hours, bring the mass into -boxes of glass or tin provided with screw-tops. - -_Poudre d' Algérine._--Cream of tartar and pulverized red coral each -2 lbs., pulverized burnt alum 1 lb., pulverized sugar of milk 2 lbs., -cochineal as coloring matter 3½ ozs. - -The pulverized ingredients are brought into an enamelled vessel having -a capacity of 12 quarts and thoroughly mixed, so that the cochineal is -uniformly distributed in the mass. Now have ready about 3 quarts of -nearly boiling water and a thoroughly cleansed soap-stirrer or similar -instrument. - -When everything is prepared, quickly pour the hot water upon the -powder in the enamelled vessel and stir rapidly and thoroughly during -the effervescence which immediately takes place. The effervescence -gradually ceases and the result will be a beautiful crimson colored -mass, the hot water having immediately and completely dissolved the -coloring matter of the cochineal. Now, bring the mass into a shallow -box lined with clean white paper and place it to dry in an airy room, -but do not expose it to the air or sunlight. The next day the mass in -the box is thoroughly worked through, this operation being repeated -every day until the mass is dry. It is then again powdered, whereby -it acquires a rose color, and is then sifted. The powder is perfumed -with peppermint oil 1 oz. and clove oil and cassia oil each 5½ ozs., -sufficient glycerin to prevent dust, being at the same time rubbed -in. With the addition of the glycerin the beautiful crimson color of -the powder reappears. This tooth-powder possesses excellent cleansing -qualities and can be recommended chiefly to persons having yellow -teeth, as well as to smokers whose teeth commence to get black. - -_Dr. Hufeland's tooth soap._--Best quality of tallow melted without -acid 14 lbs., soda lye of 38° B. 6½ lbs., potash lye of 20° B. 1 lb. -Further, yellow ochre 1 lb., umber 4½ ozs., and precipitated carbonate -of calcium 3 lbs., stirred together with hot water 2 quarts. Peppermint -oil 5¼ ozs., clove oil 14 drachms. - -The kettle with the tallow strained through a cloth is brought upon the -water-bath and the tallow heated to 167° F. The lye heated to about -100° F. is then slowly added to the tallow in the kettle, and, after -stirring for about ¼ hour, the mass is allowed to rest quietly, the -kettle being lightly covered and only a little steam admitted or fire -kept under the kettle, so that saponification does not take place too -rapidly. - -Saponification will be slowly effected from the sides of the kettle in -about one hour, the mass in the kettle rising somewhat. This rising -indicates that the process of saponification is going on. The mass -is now again stirred, which must be done carefully and not hastily, -as otherwise the soap readily becomes spumous. When the soap again -lies quietly in the kettle, it will have the appearance of a white -prime grain-soap. Now add the coloring substances and the precipitated -carbonate of calcium and thoroughly stir, so that the mass acquires a -uniform brown color. Then remove the kettle from the water-bath, add -the perfumes with constant stirring, bring the finished tooth soap into -the frame, lightly cover the latter with the wooden lid and let stand -over night. The next day the tooth soap may be cut up into suitable -pieces, which are allowed to dry for about 12 hours and then packed in -tinfoil, etc. - -_Tooth-soap._--Castile soap 1 lb., prepared chalk 1 oz., thymol 20 -grains, oil of wintergreen 30 drops. - -Shave the soap into ribbons, beat it into a paste with a little water, -and add first the prepared chalk and lastly the thymol and wintergreen -oil dissolved in a little water. - -_Saponaceous tooth-wash._--White Castile soap 3 ozs., oil of orange -peel 10 drops, oil of cinnamon 5 drops, water 4 ozs., alcohol 12 ozs. - -Shave the soap into ribbons; melt with the water in a water-bath, -adding the alcohol while still warm. Continue the heat if necessary, -until solution is effected. When cold, dissolve the oils in the liquid. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS, AND HAIR TONICS; HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORIES. - - -To properly preserve the hair it requires to be occasionally oiled, and -the scalp to be frequently cleansed. Pomades and oils serve for the -former purpose, and hair tonics for the latter. For the preparation -of pomades, fats, such as lard, beef-tallow, and beef-marrow, are -principally used, though cocoa butter, cocoanut oil, castor oil, -almond oil, spermaceti, and wax, and, more recently, vaseline are also -employed. For the preparation of hair oils, fat oils, especially olive -oil and almond oil are used, but also poppy oil, peanut oil, sesame -oil, etc. The fats and oils used should not be rancid, for, on the one -hand, the bad odor arising from rancidity is troublesome in perfuming, -and, on the other, what is of still greater importance, rancid fat -injuriously affects the scalp and the growth of the hair. Of the oils -above mentioned, which are sometimes used, poppy oil is a drying oil, -and, therefore, not suitable for the purpose. - -Some fats enjoy a special reputation as hair pomades, the property of -strengthening the scalp and promoting the growth of the hair being -ascribed to them. This is especially the case as regards beef marrow -and horse fat,[22] whilst in olden times the bone marrow of the deer -(_cerval medullæ_) and bear's grease were believed to possess this -property. Cleopatra is said to have used the latter, and many ladies -are at the present time under the impression that they apply it to -their hair when they use _Pommade à la graisse d'ours_. Thoroughly -purified lard renders no doubt the same service as the above-mentioned -fats. - - [22] Genuine horse fat is obtained from the upper portion of the neck - of the horse. - -POMADES. Pomades are prepared by two different methods; the desired -odor is imparted to the fat by the extraction of the flowers of various -plants, or the fat in a semi-congealed state is perfumed with different -volatile oils. - -The fats used for pomades should, as above indicated, be as fresh and -pure as possible, so that they will keep for a long time. Fats intended -for fine pomades, for which lard and beef-tallow are chiefly used, are -generally first subjected to purification by, for some time, treating -them with cold water, constantly renewed, and thoroughly washing, so -that all adhering particles of dirt and mucus are removed, and the -pomades prepared from them are better protected against rancidity. For -the removal of the water adhering from washing, the fats are remelted. -Still greater durability is imparted to the fat by adding in remelting -a small quantity of salicylic acid (2¾ drachms of the acid to 2 lbs. -of fat), or of gum benzoin. A small addition of ethyl nitrite also -renders the fats more durable. - -The purification of the fat, which generally consists of 2 to 3 parts -lard and 1 part beef-tallow, is frequently effected as follows: Boil -for about one hour 125 lbs. of fat with about 30 gallons of water -containing 1 lb. each of common salt and alum in solution, constantly -removing the scum formed. After standing for several hours, the fat -thus purified is carefully taken off from the sediment and water; it is -then, together with 4 to 6 lbs. of pulverized benzoin, for some time -heated at 167° F., and finally strained into stone jars, which, after -the fat is cold, are closed with a piece of bladder or waxed paper and -kept for use. Fat thus prepared keeps for years. - -For _coloring the pomades_ are used: 1. _For red_: Alkannin, cinnabar, -carmine (triturated with a small quantity of sal ammoniac and added -to the fat) and safranin (1 part of it dissolved in 20 parts alcohol -and 80 parts water and added to the melted fat). 2. _For yellow_: -Annotto, turmeric, cadmium sulphide. 3. _For brown_: Cocoa powder and -ochre. 4. _For green_: Chlorophyl. Besides the above-mentioned coloring -substances, a very intense coloring matter for pomades is brought into -commerce under the name "Lederin" by Saltzer & Voigt, of Oker, Germany. -It is manufactured in lemon color, orange, cinnabar, violet, and brown -shades, and 10 to 12 drachms of it, triturated in a porcelain dish with -about 1 lb. of the warm fat, will impart a truly beautiful color to 100 -lbs. of fat or oil. - -_Fine French Pomades_ (_Flower Pomades_).--In France, especially in -the southern part, where the cultivation of the various flowers, such -as roses, violets, mignonette, héliotrope, etc., is carried on on an -extensive scale, the fine pomades are prepared by the method previously -mentioned (see p. 58 _et seq._). - -The maceration or extraction of the flowers is effected as follows: The -fat, generally consisting of 3 parts lard and 1 part beef-tallow, is -melted in an enamelled vessel over the steam or water-bath. The flowers -in a clean linen bag are suspended in the fat, and after covering the -vessel the fat is kept, according to the strength of the perfume of the -respective variety of flower, for a day or two more at a temperature of -from 133° to 145° F. The extracted and exhausted flowers are then taken -out, slightly pressed out, and thrown away. The same operation with -always the same quantities of fresh flowers is then repeated ten to -twelve times with the same fat, until it is sufficiently perfumed. The -pomade thus obtained, to which some white vaseline is frequently added, -is then stirred until cold. - -Receipts for some flower pomades are here given:-- - -_Pommade à la rose._--Extract, in the manner above given, with 6 lbs. -of lard and 2 lbs. of beef-tallow, both thoroughly purified, 8 lbs. of -fresh rose leaves. Treat the fat ten to twelve times in the same manner -with an equal quantity of fresh rose leaves. - -_Pommade à l'acacia._--Extract 6 lbs. of fresh acacia flowers with 20 -lbs. of fat, and repeat the operation ten times with a like quantity of -fresh flowers. - -_Pommade à la fleur d'orange._--Extract 8 lbs. of fresh orange flowers -with 8 lbs. of fat, and repeat the operation eight times with a like -quantity of fresh flowers. - -_Pommade à l'héliotrope._--Extract 8 lbs. of fresh héliotrope flowers -with 8 lbs. of fat, and repeat the operation eight to ten times with an -equal quantity of fresh flowers. - -All simple French pomades, for which flowers furnish the perfume, are -prepared in a similar manner. For pomades are chiefly used the flowers -of the geranium, jasmine, mignonette, hyacinth, tuberose, narcissus, -lily, etc., the pomades as a rule receiving the name of the perfume -imparted to them. - -POMADES ACCORDING TO THE GERMAN METHOD. Most of the pomades consumed in -Germany are prepared from fresh, purified lard and beef-tallow, though -sometimes additions of wax, spermaceti, stearin, castor-oil, cocoanut -oil, etc., are made, or the pomade is entirely composed of the latter -fats. For inferior qualities of pomades, borax is much used, since it -not only possesses the property of combining a quantity of water with -the fat, but also makes the pomade more durable. Soap dissolved in hot -water is also often added to the fat, whereby not only considerable -water is fixed in the pomade, but the latter also becomes very white -and pliant. In regard to pomades containing borax, it may be mentioned -that safranin has proved a durable substance for coloring the pomades -red, while alkannin suffers alterations. - -The fabrication of pomades is very simple. The fat, after being melted, -and somewhat cooled off, is generally vigorously worked or beaten with -a wooden pestle or spatula, until it acquires a frothy, cream-like -appearance. By this treatment the fat also gains in volume, small air -bubbles being inclosed in it. On the other hand, the fat is stirred -until cold, then perfumed and poured into pots. - -The following mixtures of fat may serve as suitable foundations for -white pomades:-- - -I. Lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 2 lbs. - -II. Lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 3 lbs. - -III. Lard 7½ lbs., spermaceti 1½ lbs. - -IV. Castor oil 6 lbs., vaseline 1½ lbs., wax 1 lb. - -V. Lard 8 lbs., cocoanut oil 2 lbs. - -VI. Castor oil 6 lbs., spermaceti 1 lb. - -VII. Lard 6 lbs., cocoanut oil 3 lbs. - -VIII. Lard 8 lbs., wax 1 lb., cocoa butter 1 lb. - -IX. Pomade fat 12 lbs., soap 4 ozs., dissolved in hot water, borax ½ -drachm. This mass will stand about ¼ water. - -X. _In summer_: Fat 6 lbs., stearin 7 ozs. - -_In winter_: Fat 6 lbs., stearin 4½ ozs. - -To either mass given under X, add and combine thoroughly with it 14 -drachms of borax dissolved in 1 quart of water. - -The pomades, while still warm, are colored and finally perfumed. -For _perfuming_, different volatile oils and perfume substances of -suitable composition are used, 1 to 1½ ozs. of perfume being generally -sufficient for 2 lbs. of fat. - -Receipts for the best known and most popular pomades are as follows:-- - -_Apple pomade._--Digest for some time in the water bath 2 lbs. of fresh -apple parings with 6 lbs. of lard and 2 lbs. of beef-tallow, press, -color yellow, stir until cold, and perfume with 1 oz. amyl valerate, -commonly called "apple oil." - -_Bear's grease pomade._--Perfume purified bear's grease 8 lbs., or -benzoated lard 6 lbs. and beef-tallow 2 lbs., with rose-geranium oil -2¾ ozs. and vanilla tincture 2 ozs. - -_Quinine pomade No. 1._--Fresh lard 6 lbs., fresh beef-tallow 2½ lbs., -quinotannic acid 13 ozs., tincture of cantharides and distilled water -each 8 ozs., Peru balsam 4 ozs., rose-geranium oil 8 drachms. - -_Quinine pomade No. 2._--Vaseline 4 lbs., paraffin 2 lbs., fat jasmine -oil 1 lb., Peruvian bark extract ½ lb., tannin 5¼ ozs., Peru balsam -3½ ozs., rose-geranium oil 11 drachms. - -Melt together the vaseline and paraffin, add the Peruvian bark extract -previously rubbed up with as little water as possible, and stir in the -tannin dissolved in the volatile oils. - -_Quinine pomade (imitation) No. 1._--Benzoated lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow -2 lbs., colored with prepared cocoa powder about 14 ozs., and perfumed -with Peruvian balsam 2¼ ozs., bergamot oil, citronella oil, and eau de -Cologne each 5½ drachms, and oils of cloves, lavender, and cinnamon -each 40 drops. - -_Quinine pomade (imitation) No. 2._--Lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 2½ lbs., -cocoa powder 15¾ ozs., Peru balsam 2¼ ozs., cassia oil 1¾ ozs., -clove oil 2¾ drachms, oil of bitter almonds 10 drops. - -_Benzoin pomade._--Digest for several hours in a water bath at 167° -F. 6 lbs. of lard, 2 lbs. of beef-tallow, and 1½ lbs. of pulverized -benzoin, and strain off the fat. - -_Densdorf pomade._--Castor oil 6 lbs., vaseline 1½ lbs., yellow wax 1 -lb., bergamot oil 2¼ ozs., lemon oil 1¼ ozs., geranium oil 4½ drachms. - -_Ice pomade No. 1._--Best olive oil 6 lbs., white vaseline and -spermaceti each 1½ lbs., bergamot oil 3 ozs., bitter almond oil 11 -drachms, rose-geranium oil 8¼ drachms, cinnamon oil 5½ drachms. - -_Ice pomade No. 2._--Fat almond oil 6 lbs., spermaceti 1½ lbs., -bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., citronella oil 14 drachms, palma rose oil -2¾ drachms. - -_Family pomade (red)._--Fresh lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 3 lbs., bergamot -oil 1¾ ozs., oils of lemon, lavender, and cinnamon each 14 drachms. -Color with alkannin. - -_Family pomade (white)._--Fresh lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 3 lbs., lemon -oil 2 ozs., sweet orange oil 1¼ ozs., bergamot oil 1 oz. - -_Family pomade (rose color)._--Fresh lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 3 lbs., -palma-rose oil, citronella oil, and lavender oil each 1¼ ozs. Color -with alkannin. - -_Family pomade (yellow)._--Fresh lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 3 lbs., -bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., cassia oil 14 drachms, clove oil 8¼ drachms, -thyme oil 5½ drachms. Color with lederin or annotto. - -_Family pomade (brown)._--Fresh lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 3 lbs., cassia -oil 1¾ ozs., caraway oil 1 oz., sweet orange oil and clove oil each -11¼ drachms. Color brown with cocoa powder, lederin, or umber. - -_Strawberry pomade._--Fresh ripe strawberries 1½ lbs., fresh lard, 6 -lbs., fresh beef-tallow 2 lbs., rose oil 5 drops. - -Put the strawberries in a clean linen bag, and digest them for some -time with the fat in the water-bath. Then moderately press the -strawberries, color with alkannin, and finally perfume. - -_Fine hair pomade._--Fresh lard 8 lbs., cocoanut oil and wax each 1 -lb., bergamot oil 3 ozs., lemon oil 1¼ ozs., geranium oil 5½ drachms, -musk tincture 1 drachm.[23] - - [23] A pomade containing musk cannot be used by everyone, since in - nervous persons it may readily cause headache. - -_Pomade for promoting the growth of the hair._--Lard 6 lbs., -beef-tallow 2 lbs., tincture of cantharides 10½ ozs., lemon oil 2½ -ozs., bergamot oil 2 ozs., cinnamon oil 1½ drachms. - -_Heliotrope pomade, finest quality._--Lard treated with benzoin 6 lbs., -beef tallow treated with benzoin 2 lbs., heliotropin 3¾ drachms, -dissolved in a small quantity of the fat heated to about 111° F.; -neroli oil 35 drops. - -_Heliotrope pomade._--Fresh lard 6 lbs., fresh beef tallow 2 lbs., Peru -balsam 2½ ozs., cassia oil 1½ ozs., clove oil 8¼ drachms, artificial -bitter-almond oil 1½ drachms. - -_Jasmine pomade._--Benzoated lard 6 lbs., benzoated beef tallow 2 lbs., -fat jasmine oil 2⅖ lbs., rose oil 25 drops. - -_Emperor pomade._--Melt together 7⅗ lbs. of fresh olive oil, 2 lbs. -of castor oil, and 2⅖ lbs. of spermaceti. Perfume with fat jasmine -oil 7 ozs., Turkish rose oil and bergamot oil each 2¾ drachms, -neroli oil 50 drops, geranium oil 20 drops, orris-root oil 10 drops, -heliotropin ½ drachm, and cumarin 1/10 drachm. - -Dissolve the heliotropin and cumarin in a portion of the fat heated to -111° F., add the solution, together with the other perfume-materials, -to the fat before it congeals, then pour the pomade into jars and allow -it to cool slowly. - -_Macassar pomade._--Castor oil 6 lbs., vaseline 1½ lbs., wax 1 -lb., bergamot oil 2 ozs., cassia oil and cinnamon oil each 1 oz., -rose-geranium oil 2¾ drachms. - -_Portugal pomade._--Fresh lard 4 lbs., white vaseline 1 lb., wax 3½ -ozs., Portugal oil 2 ozs., bergamot oil 1¼ ozs., caraway oil 2¾ -drachms. - -_Herb pomade._--Melt together fresh lard 8 lbs., Japanese wax and -bayberry oil each 3½ ozs., improve the color with chlorophyl, and -perfume with lemon oil 14 drachms, bergamot oil 11 drachms, clove oil -5½ drachms, geranium oil 3¼ drachms, and a few drops of curly mint oil. - -_Lanolin pomade._--Benzoated fat 4 lbs., benzoinized olive oil and -lanolin each 2 lbs., bergamot oil 3½ ozs., cinnamon oil 7¼ drachms, -clove oil 5½ drachms, lavender oil 3¾ drachms, nerolin 1 drachm -dissolved in a portion of the fat heated to 111° F. Color red with -alkannin. - -_Oriental pomade._--Benzoated lard 6 lbs., benzoated beef-tallow 2 -lbs., bergamot oil 2 ozs., clove oil 1¼ ozs., neroli oil 5½ drachms, -musk tincture ½ drachm. Color red with lederin. - -_Paraffin ice pomade._--Castor oil or olive oil 6 lbs., paraffin 1 lb., -bergamot oil 3½ ozs., palma rose oil 11¼ drachms. - -_Neroli pomade._--Benzoated lard 6 lbs., benzoated beef-tallow 2 lbs., -fat jasmine oil and fat rose oil each 1¾ ozs., oil of bitter almonds -2 drops, nerolin 1½ drachms dissolved in a small portion of the fat -heated to 111° F. Color pale yellow. - -_Cheap pomade (red, yellow, white)._--Lard 5 lbs., beef-tallow or -cocoanut oil 2 lbs., perfumed with about 3½ ozs. of fruit ether. - -_Mignonette pomade._--Benzoated lard 4 lbs., benzoated beef-tallow and -fat mignonette oil each 2 lbs., tolu-balsam tincture 4¾ ozs. Color -pale green with chlorophyl. - -_Castor oil pomade No. 1._--Melt together 4 lbs. of castor oil and 11¼ -ozs. of spermaceti and perfume with bergamot oil 2 ozs., and geranium -oil 6½ drachms. - -_Castor oil pomade No. 2._--Castor oil and fine olive oil each 2 lbs., -yellow wax 7 ozs., bergamot oil and sweet orange oil each 14 drachms, -clove oil 8¼ drachms, neroli oil 2¼ drachms. - -_Princess pomade._--Fresh lard 8 lbs., cocoa butter and wax each 1 lb., -bergamot oil 3½ ozs., lemon oil and lavender oil each 14 drachms, -neroli oil 6¾ drachms. Color rose color with alkannin. - -_Fine pomade._--Benzoated lard 6 lbs., benzoated beef-tallow 2 lbs., -lemon oil 2 ozs., sweet orange oil 1¼ ozs., bergamot oil 1 oz. Color -yellow with annotto. - -_Beef-marrow pomade._--Melt together 4 lbs. of lard and 1 lb. of -beef-marrow, or, 4 lbs of lard, 14 ozs. of spermaceti, and 1¾ ozs. -of yellow wax, color yellow and perfume with lemon oil 14 drachms, -bergamot oil 6¾ drachms, and a few drops of clove oil. - -_Rogers's pomade for producing a beard._--Lard 7½ lbs., yellow wax ½ -lb., fine cantharides powder 10½ ozs., bergamot oil 1¼ ozs., oils of -lemon, cinnamon and lavender each 11 drachms. - -_Rose pomade._--Fresh lard 6 lbs., fresh beef-tallow 2 lbs., palma rosa -oil 2¾ ozs., citronella oil 11 drachms, alkannin for coloring 1 to -1½ ozs. - -_Fine rose pomade._--Fresh lard 2½ lbs., spermaceti and fat almond oil, -each 3½ ozs., rose geranium oil 1¼ ozs., bitter almond oil 1½ ozs. - -_Finest rose pomade._--Fat rose oil 2⅖ lbs., spermaceti 7 ozs., -white wax 3½ ozs., rose-geranium oil 1½ ozs., rose oil and bergamot -oil, each ½ drachm. Color red with alkannin. - -_Salicylic pomade._--Fresh lard 7 lbs., white wax 1 lb., fat jasmine -oil 1⅖ lbs. Peru balsam 5¼ ozs., salicylic acid 2 ozs., dissolved in -alcohol 4 ozs. - -_Victoria pomade._--Melt together 3⅕ lbs. of fat almond oil and 10½ -ozs. of white wax, and perfume the mixture, when quite cooled off, with -fat jasmine oil ½ lb., rose oil and geranium oil each 1 drachm. Color -rose color with alkannin. - -_Tonka pomade._--Lard 7½ lbs., spermaceti ½ lb., cumarin 4½ drachms, -dissolved in a small portion of the warm fat. - -_Fine vanilla pomade._--Benzoated lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 2 lbs., -vanilla 2¾ drachms, dissolved in a small portion of the warm fat. - -_Vanilla pomade._--Lard and vaseline each 2 lbs., wax 3½ ozs., Peruvian -balsam 1⅛ ozs., bitter-almond oil ½ drachm, cinnamon oil 20 drops. - -_Violet pomade._--Lard 4 lbs., vaseline 2 lbs., wax 5½ ozs., spermaceti -1¾ ozs., fat orris-root oil 2 lbs., bergamot oil 3¾ drachms, -clove oil 2¼ drachms, cinnamon oil ¾ drachm, rose oil ½ drachm. - -_Walnut pomade._--Work in a mortar to a uniform paste ½ lb. of fresh -green walnut-shells and 2 ozs. of alum. Digest the paste with 2⅖ -lbs. of benzoinized lard and tallow in the water-bath until the fat -appears clear. Then strain off the fat, stir until cold, and perfume -with 1½ drachms of neroli oil and ½ drachm of rose oil. - - -VASELINE POMADES.--Vaseline pomades consisting neither of an animal -nor of a vegetable fat, but almost entirely of a mineral fat, form -a special division of pomades. On account of its good properties -and cheapness, vaseline, which is obtained from petroleum residues, -etc., has for several years past been much used in the preparation -of pomades. The pomades prepared from vaseline are not only very -suitable for oiling the hair, as they never become rancid, but may also -advantageously be used as a remedy for chapped skin, inflammation, -cuts, burns, etc. For pomades odorless vaseline has to be used, 1 lb. -of it requiring about 5½ to 8½ drachms of perfume. Lederin, which has -been previously mentioned, is best suited for coloring the pomades. -When used for pomades vaseline, though by itself sufficient for the -purpose, frequently receives an addition of paraffin, wax (mostly -ceresin), and lard. To vaseline pomades intended for export to warm -climates, an addition of ¼ to ⅛ ceresin is required. - -The following mixtures give good foundations for vaseline pomade:-- - - I. Yellow or white vaseline 2 parts, paraffin 1. - II. Vaseline 5 parts, paraffin or ceresin 1. - III. Vaseline 3 parts, ceresin 1. - IV. Vaseline and lard each 10 parts, ceresin 1. - -The pomades are prepared by first melting the paraffin or ceresin -and then slowly stirring in the vaseline. When the fat commences to -thicken, the perfume is added and the pomade poured into jars or tin -boxes. - -A few good receipts for vaseline pomades are here given. - -_Bouquet vaseline pomade._--White vaseline and fresh lard each 2 lbs., -ceresin 3½ ozs., bergamot oil 1¼ ozs., lavender oil 6¾ drachms, -cinnamon oil 5½ drachms, neroli oil 3¾ drachms, geranium oil 2¾ -drachms. - -_Family vaseline pomade._--Pale yellow vaseline 10 lbs., oils of -bergamot and lemons each 1 oz., citronella oil 12¾ drachms, cassia -oil 8¼ drachms, lavender oil 4½ drachms, clove oil 3¾ drachms; _or_, -bergamot oil 2 ozs., palma-rose oil 1¾ ozs., lavender oil 5½ drachms. - -_Lily of the valley vaseline pomade._--White vaseline and fresh lard -each 2 lbs., ceresin 3½ ozs., bergamot oil 1 oz., ylang-ylang oil 2¾ -drachms, licari oil ½ drachm. - -_Neroli vaseline pomade._--Vaseline 10 lbs., ceresin 2 lbs., geranium -oil 1 oz., nerolin 3¾ drachms, dissolved in a small portion of the -warm fat. - -_Mignonette vaseline pomade._--White vaseline 2 lbs., paraffin 1 lb., -bergamot oil 9 drachms, neroli oil 5½ drachms, artificial bitter almond -oil 15 drops. - -_Portugal vaseline pomade._--Pale yellow vaseline 10 lbs., ceresin -3½ ozs., Portugal oil 2¾ ozs., cassia oil 1 oz., lavender oil 5½ -drachms. - -_Rose vaseline pomade_, No. 1.--Vaseline 6 lbs., ceresin 3½ ozs., -rose-geranium oil 1¼ ozs., nerolin ¾ drachm. Colored with lederin. - -_Rose vaseline pomade_, No. 2.--Vaseline and lard each 2 lbs., ceresin -7 ozs., geranium oil 1½ ozs., bergamot oil 5½ drachms, musk tincture -½ drachm. Color red with alkannin. - -_Fine vaseline pomade_ (_yellow_).--Yellow vaseline and castor oil each -2 lbs., yellow wax 7 ozs., lemon oil 1 oz., bergamot oil 6¾ drachms, -nerolin ½ drachm. - -_Vaseline pomade_ (_red_).--White vaseline 4 lbs., paraffin or ceresin -14 ozs., palma-rose oil, citronella oil and lavender oil each 11¼ -drachms. Color red with lederin or alkannin. - -_Vaseline pomade_ (_white_).--White vaseline 4 lbs., paraffin 14 ozs., -bergamot oil 1¼ ozs., cassia oil 2¾ drachms, thyme oil 1½ drachms. - -_Virginia vaseline pomade._--Digest for some time in the water-bath -2 lbs. of white vaseline, 2½ ozs. each of yellow wax and pulverized -benzoin, and 11 drachms of Peru balsam. Then filter and perfume with -bergamot oil 14 drachms, citronella oil 1½ drachms. - -This pomade serves not only for preserving the scalp, but is also a -good remedy for tetter, cutaneous eruptions, etc. - -_Victoria vaseline pomade._--White vaseline 5 lbs., paraffin 1 lb., -bergamot oil 1½ ozs., rose-geranium oil 1 oz., lavender 8¼ drachms. -Color red with alkannin or lederin. - -_Extra fine vaseline pomade._--White vaseline 4 lbs., ceresin 10½ ozs., -bergamot oil 1⅛ ozs., lemon oil 9 drachms, palmarosa oil 2¼ drachms. - -_Stick pomades._--Besides the soft, unctuous pomades thus far treated -of, we have a solid product--the so-called stick-pomades. These -pomades, which serve for the better fastening of the hair, are brought -into commerce either as _wax pomades_ or _resin pomades_, the former -being prepared from a mixture of lard, tallow, and wax, and the latter -from tallow, wax, and resin, to which some Venetian turpentine may be -added. - -The following mixtures give good foundations for stick pomades:-- - - I. French flower pomade 4 parts, white wax 1½. - II. Fresh beef tallow 3 parts, fresh lard 1, wax 1½. - III. Best beef tallow 5 parts, yellow wax 1. - IV. Tallow 10 parts, wax 2½, resin 1, Venetian turpentine ¼. - V. Tallow 8½ parts, resin ¾, ceresin ¾. - VI. Tallow 4 parts, pale resin 1, yellow wax ¼. - VII. Tallow 10 parts, wax 2, pale resin 1. - VIII. Olive oil 2 parts, pure stearin 1, yellow wax 1. - IX. Tallow 9½ parts, ceresin ½. - X. Best beef-tallow 10 parts, yellow wax 1½. - -The usual process of manufacturing stick-pomade is as follows: Melt -the fat, wax and resin in the water-bath, then strain the mixture and -cool it off by constant stirring until a thin film is formed upon -the surface. Then perfume and pour into tin moulds of oval, round -or square form and of various sizes. A dozen of such tin moulds of -the same size are generally soldered together and are provided below -either with a hinged piece, or they are open. In the latter case they -are placed upon a tin support with a high edge which serves for the -reception for the fat escaping from any of the moulds. The cold pomades -are pushed out by means of sticks of wood fitting exactly into the -moulds. They are then wrapped in tinfoil, labelled and brought into -commerce. - -Stick-pomades are either white, rose color, yellow, brown or black; -alkannin, lederin, umber, Frankfort black, etc., being used as coloring -substances. - -In the following some receipts for wax and resin pomades are given:-- - -_Rose-wax pomade._--Best tallow 6 lbs., best lard 2 lbs., white-wax 3 -lbs., colored with alkannin. _Perfume_: Lemon oil 1 oz., lavender oil -14 drachms, geranium oil 11 drachms, clove oil 6¾ drachms; _or_, -bergamot oil 1 oz., oils of geranium, cassia and Portugal, each 10 -drachms, clove oil 3¼ drachms. - -_Black-wax pomade._--Best tallow 10 lbs., yellow wax 1½ lbs., colored -with Frankfort black. _Perfume_: Bergamot oil 3½ ozs., cassia oil 13½ -drachms; _or_, bergamot oil 3½ ozs., citronella oil 6¾ drachms. - -_Blonde wax pomade._--Best tallow 6 lbs., best lard 2 lbs., white or -yellow wax 3 lbs. _Perfume_: Clove oil 1¼ ozs., lemon oil, bergamot oil -and Peru balsam each 14 drachms; _or_, bergamot oil 2¾ ozs., cassia -oil 5½ drachms, thyme oil 2¾ drachms. - -_Brown wax pomade._--Best tallow 10 lbs., yellow wax 2 lbs., colored -with umber. _Perfume_: Citronella oil 2 ozs., clove oil 12¼ drachms, -bergamot oil 8¼ drachms, anise-seed oil 6¾ drachms; _or_, bergamot -oil 2½ ozs., cassia oil 1¼ ozs., clove oil 5½ drachms. - -_Cheap-wax pomade_ (_color as desired_).--Best tallow 9½ lbs., ceresin -½ lb. Perfume: Lavender oil 1¾ ozs., cassia oil 1 oz., palma-rose -oil 11 drachms; _or_, bergamot oil 1½ ozs., palmarosa oil 1 oz., -lavender oil ½ oz. - -_Resin pomade No. 1._--Best tallow 10 lbs., yellow wax 2 lbs., pale -resin 1 lb. _Perfume_: Bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., cassia oil 14 drachms, -lavender oil 11 drachms, clove oil 8¼ drachms, thyme oil 5½ drachms. - -_Resin pomade No. 2._--Best tallow 10 lbs., yellow wax 2½ lbs., pale -resin 1 lb., Venetian turpentine 4 ozs. _Perfume_: Cassia oil 2¾ -ozs., lavender oil 1 oz., lemon-grass oil 11 drachms, clove oil and -thyme oil each 5½ drachms. - -_Cheap resin pomade._--Best tallow 8½ lbs., pale resin and pale ceresin -each 13 ozs. _Perfume_: Bergamot oil 3½ ozs., cassia oil 9½ drachms, -thyme oil 5 drachms; _or_, Portugal oil 2¾ ozs., cassia oil 1 oz., -lavender oil 5½ drachms. - - -HAIR OILS.--Like pomades, hair oils are perfumed either with volatile -oils or by treatment with larger quantities of fresh flowers. The oils -obtained in the latter manner are known as _Huiles antiques_, and are -the finest and most expensive. Vaseline oil, which is cheap and does -not become rancid, is also at present much used as hair oil. To make -the fat oils used as hair oils more durable and to protect them from -becoming rancid, they are also treated with benzoin. For this purpose -digest for three hours, with frequent stirring, in the water-bath 100 -lbs. of the oil with 1 lb. of pulverized benzoin. With the exception -of alkannin for red-colored oil and chlorophyl for herb oils, no -coloring substances are used for hair oils. About 5½ to 8¼ drachms of -perfume are required for 1 lb. of oil. - -The _Huiles antiques_ are obtained as follows:-- - -_Huile antique à la rose._--Extract in the cold 1 lb. of fresh rose -leaves with 1 lb. of best olive oil, and with the oil pressed off, -extract, six times in succession, equal quantities of fresh leaves, -leaving the rose-leaves each time in contact with the oil for 10 to 12 -hours. The oil, when sufficiently perfumed, is filtered. - -_Huile antique au jasmin._--Extract in the manner above given 1 lb. of -fresh jasmin flowers with 1 lb. of olive oil. - -In the same manner the perfume of the different flowers can be -withdrawn and utilized. - -A number of receipts for the most popular hair oils are here given. - -_Alpine herb oil._--Color slightly with chlorophyl 10 lbs. of best -quality of olive oil and perfume with peppermint oil 2 ozs., lavender -oil 1 oz., caraway oil 6½ drachms. - -_Flower hair oil._--Color slightly with alkannin 10 lbs. of benzoated -olive oil of best quality, and perfume with geranium oil 2¼ ozs., -bergamot oil and lavender oil each 9 drachms, petit-grain oil 4½ -drachms, and angelica oil 5 drops. - -_Peruvian bark hair oil._--Extract for some time 1 lb. of pulverized -Peruvian bark with 10 lbs. of strongly heated benzoinized olive oil. -Then color the oil red with alkannin, and when cold, perfume with -bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., lemon oil 14 drachms, rose-geranium oil 2¼ -drachms, neroli oil ½ drachm, and cinnamon oil 5 drops; _or_, with -bergamot oil 2¼ ozs., lemon oil 1⅛ oz., geranium oil 3¼ drachms. - -_Peru hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., Peru balsam 3½ ozs., -cassia oil 11 drachms. - -_Burdock root hair oil No. 1._--Digest at a moderate heat 8 lbs. of -olive oil or sesame oil with 2 lbs. of fresh burdock roots; then pour -off the oil from the roots, add 7 ozs. of castor oil, color with -alkannin, and perfume with bergamot oil 2 ozs. and palma-rose oil 1 oz. - -_Burdock root hair oil No. 2._--Color 10 lbs. of benzoated olive oil -pale green with chlorophyl, and perfume with bergamot oil 2 ozs., -geranium oil 1¼ ozs., and lavender oil 11 drachms. - -_Macassar hair oil No. 1._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., geranium oil -and lemon oil each 1¼ ozs., cassia oil 14 drachms. Color red with -alkannin. - -_Macassar oil No. 2._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., colored with -alkannin, and perfumed with bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., lemon oil 1¼ ozs., -cinnamon oil 1 drachm, musk essence 1 drachm. - -_Neroli hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., nerolin 5½ drachms -dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil, rose oil 10 drops. - -_Mignonette hair oil No. 1._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., cassia oil -1¼ ozs., geranium oil and tolu-balsam tincture each 11 drachms, nerolin -1 drachm, dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil. - -_Mignonette hair oil No. 2._--Benzoated olive oil 4 lbs., fat -mignonette oil 3 lbs., tolu-balsam tincture 3½ ozs. - -_Fine hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., lemon oil 1¼ ozs., -bergamot oil 15¾ drachms, lavender oil 3¾ drachms, neroli oil -2¾ drachms, rosemary oil 1½ drachms, petit-grain oil 1 drachm. - -_Cheap hair oil_ (_red or yellow_).--Sesame oil or purified colza oil -10 lbs., bergamot oil 2¼ ozs., citronella oil 1⅛ ozs., mirbane oil -10 drachms; _or,_ Portugal oil 2¾ ozs., cassia oil 1 oz., lavender -oil 5½ drachms. - -_Portugal hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., Portugal oil 2 ozs., -bergamot oil 1½ ozs., caraway oil 3¼ drachms. - -_Jasmine hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., fat jasmine oil 1½ -lbs., bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., clove oil 11 drachms, rose-geranium oil -4½ drachms, nerolin 1 drachm, dissolved in a small quantity of warm -oil, thyme oil ½ drachm. - -_Vaseline hair oil No. 1._--White vaseline oil 8 lbs., white olive oil -2 lbs., colored red with alkannin, bergamot oil 1¼ ozs., lavender oil -and lemon oil each 11 drachms, neroli oil 5½ drachms. - -_Vaseline hair oil No. 2._--Yellow vaseline oil 8 lbs., olive oil 2 -lbs., cassia oil 1½ ozs., lemon-grass oil 1 oz., clove oil ½ oz. - -_Vanilla hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., vanillin, dissolved -in a small quantity of warm oil, and Peru balsam, each 5½ drachms, -bergamot oil 1 drachm, musk tincture 10 drops. - -_Ylang-ylang hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 5 lbs., ylang-ylang oil 2 -drachms, rose oil 1 drachm, neroli oil 10 drops. - -_Philocome hair oil._--Melt together benzoated olive oil and yellow wax -each 2 lbs., and when about half cold, add fat orris-root oil and fat -jasmine oil, each 1½ lbs., rose-geranium oil 1 drachm, and stir until -cold. - -_Sultana hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., colored red with -alkannin, bergamot oil 1½ ozs., lavender oil 8 drachms, cinnamon oil 7 -drachms, neroli oil 5½ drachms, geranium oil 3¼ drachms, musk tincture -1 drachm. - -_Rose hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., colored pale red with -alkannin, geranium oil 2 ozs., bergamot oil 1 oz., cassia oil 14 -drachms. - -_Tonka hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., cumarin 10 drachms, -dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil. - -_Violet hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., fat orris-root oil 3 -lbs., bergamot oil 6½ drachms, clove oil 3¼ drachms, cinnamon oil 1 -drachm, rose oil ½ drachm. - -_Victoria hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., slightly colored -with alkannin, palma-rose oil, lavender oil, and citronella oil each 1 -oz., musk tincture 1½ drachms. - -_Cheap hair oil No. 1._--Sunflower oil 500 drachms, bergamot oil 3, -rosemary oil 1, lemon oil 1, neroli and thyme oil each ½. - -_Cheap hair oil No. 2._--Sunflower oil 500 drachms, lemon oil 2, -rosemary oil 3, lavender oil 5, geranium oil 1, musk tincture ¼, -thyme oil 1. - - -BANDOLINES.--Bandolines are mucilaginous liquids, and are prepared -from substances forming mucilage, such as gum-tragacanth, gum-arabic, -Japanese gelatine, quince seeds, flaxseed, etc. Gum-arabic adhering -very firmly, its use, however, cannot be recommended. The substances -above mentioned are heated with water until the mucilaginous matter -is extracted. The latter is then strained through a cloth, and the -mucilaginous, thick, transparent liquid thus obtained perfumed. -Volatile oils dissolving with difficulty in the liquid, an _Extrait_ -is generally used for perfuming, or an aromatic water for dissolving -the gums. If the bandoline is to be colored, an ammoniacal carmine -solution is to be used. Aniline colors should not be employed for the -purpose, since they precipitate upon the scalp and hair, even if only -traces of them are present. - -Bandolines are not very durable; their keeping properties may, however, -be improved by the addition of benzoic or boric acid. - -_Rose bandoline._--Gum-tragacanth 1 lb., rose water 7 lbs. - -Bring the pulverized gum-tragacanth into a suitable earthenware or -enamelled vessel, pour the rose water over it, and let it stand in a -right warm place until by the swelling of the gum a thick mucilage is -formed. If the latter is to remain white, it is first strained through -a coarse linen cloth and then through a finer one; if, however, the -bandoline is to be rose color, triturate in a mortar 1 to 1½ drachms of -best carmine with as little ammonia as possible, and distribute this -coloring matter in the mucilage. For the reception of the bandoline -jars with a sufficiently wide mouth for the index finger to reach to -the bottom are best. - -_Almond bandoline._--Allow 5 lbs. of rose water and 1¼ ozs. of quince -seed to stand, with frequent shaking, for 24 hours. Then strain and -perfume with 2 drachms of bitter almond oil. - - -BRILLIANTINE.--Brilliantine is very popular for giving lustre to the -hair of the head and the beard, and in fact, if correctly prepared, it -has many advantages, since, owing to its composition, it considerably -decreases, even if it does not entirely prevent, the formation of the -annoying dandruff. - -_Flower brilliantine No. 1._--Chemically pure glycerin 1½ ozs., -alcoholic extract No. 2 from French-flower pomade No. 24 10½ ozs., -French _huile antique_ as much as required. - -Vigorously shake the glycerin and alcoholic pomade extract in a glass -flask until a uniform fluid is formed, which should be clear as water. -To give it, however, an oily appearance, carefully mix with it a little -sanders-wood tincture and turmeric tincture. Fill the brilliantine -glasses half full with the above mixture and fill up the glasses with -French _huile antique_ of the same flower-perfume as the respective -alcoholic flower-pomade extract, but do not shake, this being done only -when used. - -Owing to the content of glycerin, which, as well known, is -non-volatile, the consumption of this brilliantine is very economical, -while it is made very agreeable by the fine French flower perfumes. - -If it is desired to prepare the brilliantine at less cost, pure alcohol -may be substituted for the pomade extract and any perfumed hair oil for -the French _huile antique_. - -_Brilliantine No. 2._--For brilliantine of quality II, the glasses are -first filled half full with perfumed hair oil and then filled up with -non-perfumed alcohol slightly colored with sanders-wood tincture or -turmeric tincture. Glycerin is not used, and, hence, in this case the -oil will be on the bottom and the alcohol, being lighter, on top. - -This brilliantine, containing no glycerin, is not so economical as the -preceding. It evaporates quite rapidly and sometimes makes the hair -hard, especially that of persons having naturally dry hair. However, -this second quality is also quite popular and the perfumer must satisfy -the demands of his customers as much as possible. - -_Brilliantine No. 3._--Castor oil 10 lbs., pure alcohol 5 lbs., -Portugal oil 7 ozs., clove oil 1¾ ozs., petit-grain oil 1 oz., -cassia oil 1 oz., citronella oil 11 drachms. - -Mix the alcohol and castor oil in a glass-flask, then add the volatile -oils and shake vigorously. If the castor oil is pure and genuine, it -forms an intimate mixture with the alcohol; if, on the other hand, -traces of oil appear on the surface of the fluid, the castor oil is -adulterated with other fat oils and unsuitable for this purpose. -The castor oil should also be as fresh as possible and, under no -conditions, rancid. - -If this brilliantine is desired of a somewhat yellowish color, the -object may be attained by the addition of sanders-wood tincture or -turmeric tincture. - -That this brilliantine is of an inferior quality is shown by its -composition. It has the further disadvantage that it plasters the -hair, especially when the castor oil becomes old. However, there are -consumers with whom this quality is quite popular. - -The following formulas for brilliantine are taken from various -sources:-- - -I. Veal fat 4 ozs., spermaceti 2 ozs., castor oil 12 ozs., oil of -bitter almonds 1 drop, oil of cloves 10 drops, oil of bergamot 20 -drops. Melt together the first three ingredients, and add the perfumes -when nearly cold. - -II. Almond oil 2½ lbs., spermaceti ½ lb., oil of lemon 3 ozs. Melt -the spermaceti at a low temperature; add the oil and heat until all -flakes disappear. Let the jars into which it is to be poured be warm, -and then cool as slowly as possible to insure good crystals. - -The following, although somewhat peculiar, is offered as a good -brilliantine:-- - -III. Honey 1 fluid oz., glycerin and Cologne water each ½ fluid oz., -alcohol 2 fluid ozs. Mix. - - -HAIR TONICS.--Hair tonics serve for cleansing and invigorating -the scalp and for preventing the hair from falling out. Glycerin -having a beneficial effect upon the scalp is much used as one of the -constituents. The tonics also frequently contain ingredients said -to promote the growth of the hair, such as Peruvian bark extract, -quinine, tincture of cantharides, and substances containing tannin. -Hair tonics containing tincture of cantharides should, however, not be -too frequently used, as otherwise an excessive stimulation of the scalp -might be the result, which would be more injurious than beneficial to -the growth of the hair. - -Some receipts for hair tonics are here given. - -_Eau Athénienne._--Alcohol of best quality 8 quarts, vanilla tincture -1¼ lb., cumarin tincture 7 ozs., bergamot oil 3½ ozs., rose-geranium -oil 11 drachms, clove oil 14 drachms. - -After 8 days, add 1 quart of rose water and mix thoroughly. - -_Florida water No. 1._--Alcohol 50 quarts, best lavender oil 3 lbs., -bergamot oil 1 lb., African rose-geranium oil ½ lb., tinctures of -sanders-wood and turmeric each 11 drachms, distilled water 16 quarts. - -The alcohol, volatile oils, and tinctures are intimately mixed in -a glass balloon, then allowed to stand two to three weeks when -the distilled water is added and the whole vigorously agitated. -After adding the water the fluid becomes very turbid and requires -several weeks to clarify. It is then filtered through paper. If, -notwithstanding filtering, it should remain somewhat turbid, bring a -small quantity of carbonate of magnesia upon the filter. - -_Florida water No. 2._--Alcohol 25 quarts, lavender oil 7 ozs., -palmarosa oil 8 ozs., Portugal oil and red thyme oil each 3½ ozs., -tinctures of sanders-wood and turmeric each 5½ drachms, rain-water 10 -quarts. - -Proceed in the same manner as given for Florida water No. 1. - -_Eau de Cologne hair tonic._--Alcohol 8 quarts, oils of bergamot and -lemons each 1¼ ozs., lavender oil 11 drachms, rosemary oil 5½ drachms, -glycerin of 28° B. 3½ ozs. After 8 days add 7 ozs. of bicarbonate of -soda dissolved in 2½ quarts of distilled water. - -_Eau de quinine._--Alcohol of best quality 20 quarts, tinctures of -gall-nuts and Peruvian bark each 2 quarts, vanilla tincture 1 quart, -bergamot oil 7 ozs., African rose-geranium oil 3½ ozs., clove oil 14 -drachms, glycerin of 28° B. 3 lbs., Panama wood 4 lbs., boiled with -filtered rain-water 12 quarts, bicarbonate of soda 1 lb. dissolved in 1 -quart of water. - -The alcohol, tinctures, and volatile oils are brought into a glass -balloon and after vigorous agitation allowed to stand 8 days for -the volatile oils to dissolve. The decoction of Panama wood is then -added, next the bicarbonate of soda solution, and finally the whole -is thoroughly agitated. The Panama-wood decoction should not be added -while hot, as otherwise the glass balloon might burst. Color the water -with cochineal tincture or henna tincture. - -_Eau de quinine_ (_imitation_).--Alcohol 25 quarts, vanilla tincture -No. 2, 2 quarts, Portugal oil 1 lb., palmarosa oil 8 ozs., clove -oil 3½ ozs., glycerin of 28° B. 3 lbs., Panama wood 3 lbs., boiled -in rain-water 20 quarts, bicarbonate of soda 1 lb., dissolved in -rain-water 1 quart. Proceed in the manner given for genuine _Eau de -quinine_. Color with henna tincture. - -_Honey water._--Alcohol of best quality 8 quarts, orris-root tincture 1 -quart, angelica tincture 1 lb., tonka-bean extract 1¾ ozs., turmeric -tincture, as coloring matter, 5½ drachms, Portugal oil 7¾ ozs., -lemon oil 1¾ ozs., citronella oil 5½ drachms. After 8 days add 1 -liter of orange-flower water. - -_Glycerin hair tonic._--Glycerin of 28° B. 1 quart, borax 1 oz., rose -water 2 quarts, alcohol 4 ozs., oils of petit-grain and cloves each 2 -drachms, rosemary oil 4 drachms. - -Dissolve the borax in the water, the perfume in the alcohol, and mix -all together. It should be clear. Color yellow, if desired, with -saffron tincture. - -_Eau lustral_ (_hair restorative_).--Castor oil 2 quarts, linseed oil -and tincture of cantharides each 4 ozs., alcohol 13 quarts, bergamot -oil 2 ozs., lemon oil 1 oz., clove oil ½ oz., neroli oil 2 drachms. - -Mix the two fat oils and dissolve them in the alcohol by agitation. -Then add the tincture of cantharides and the perfumes, and color red -with cochineal tincture or henna tincture. - -_Tea hair tonic._--Bay rum 2 ozs., glycerin 2 ozs., alcohol 2 ozs., -infusion of black tea 10 ozs. Mix and perfume to suit. The tea -infusion should be made very strong, say 1 oz. of best tea (best -quality) to 10 ozs. of boiling water, let stand till cool, strain, and -add the other ingredients. - -_Locock's lotion for the hair._--Expressed oil of nutmeg 5 fluid ozs., -olive oil and stronger water of ammonia each 20 fluid ozs., spirit -of rosemary 40 fluid ozs., rose water sufficient to make 20 pints. -The above should be mixed with skill, best by gradually pouring the -combined oils, with constant stirring, into the stronger water of -ammonia, previously diluted with the spirit, and afterwards slowly -incorporating the rose water. - -_Shampoo lotion._--New England rum 1 pint, bay rum 12 ozs., glycerin 2 -ozs., carbonate of ammonium 1 oz., borax 2 ozs. - -_Shampoo liquid._--The readiest agent to produce a good lather upon the -hair of the head is a solution of potassa or soda or a dilute water of -ammonia. The latter, however, owing to its penetrating odor, is not -usually liked. - -The following combinations will be found serviceable:-- - -I. Solution of potassa 4 fluid ozs., borax 1 oz., bay rum ½ fluid -oz., tincture of quillaga ½ fluid oz., water enough to make 16 fluid -ozs. This may be scented according to taste. - -II. Fresh eggs 3, spirit of soap 1½ fluid ozs., carbonate of potassium -160 grains, water of ammonia 160 drops, oil-sugar of cumarin 8 grains, -oils of rose and bergamot each 2 drops, French geranium oil 1 drop, -almond oil 1 drop, rose water 27 fluid ozs. Thoroughly beat the 3 eggs, -and then dilute with the rose water. Then add the other ingredients. - -Oil-sugar of cumarin is prepared by triturating 1 part of cumarin with -999 parts of sugar of milk. - -_Dandruff cures._--I. Ointment of nitrate of mercury 1 drachm, -petrolatum 7 drachms. Mix. Cut the hair short and keep well brushed, -and apply the ointment every night for a fortnight. - -II. Red oxide of mercury 10 grains, ammoniated mercury 10 grains, -petrolatum 1 oz. Mix, and apply every night. - -III. Corrosive sublimate 30 grains, glycerin 5 fluid ozs., Cologne -water 5 fluid ozs., water sufficient to make 15 fluid ozs. Mix to make -lotion No. 1. - -Beta naphthol 120 grains, alcohol 20 fluid ozs. Mix to make lotion No. -2. - -Salicylic acid 120 grains, compound tincture of benzoin 20 fluid -drachms, olive oil 10 fluid ozs. Mix to make lotion No. 3. - -Wash the head thoroughly with terebene soap, rinse well, and dry -thoroughly; then rub in some of solution No. 1 and allow to dry, then -use No. 2 in a like manner, and finally apply No. 3. The treatment -should be carried out daily for a month, and then every alternate day -for a fortnight. The dandruff disappears in a few days, and the hair in -a short time becomes vigorous and supple. - -_Dandruff lotion._--Chloral hydrate 1 drachm, glycerin 4 drachms, bay -rum 8 ozs. - -_Bay rum._--Genuine bay rum, as brought into commerce from St. Thomas, -is said to be prepared by twice distilling a fine quality of rum -with the leaves and berries of _Myrcia acris_ or the bayberry tree. -The berries are much richer in volatile oil than the leaves, but on -account of the height of the trees, the gathering of the berries is -connected with so many difficulties and the harvest so scanty, that the -manufacturers prefer to mix leaves and berries in a certain proportion. - -The following directions for preparing bay rum are given in Schimmel & -Co.'s reports:-- - -I. Alcohol of 95 per cent. 4 lbs., water 4 lbs., bay oil 5½ drachms, -pimento oil 2¼ drachms, clove oil 10 drops. Mix, let stand for several -days and filter. - -II. Alcohol of 95 per cent. 4 lbs., bay oil 15 drachms. - -Mix, let stand for 2 weeks, and then add 8 lbs. of best Jamaica rum. -This bay rum is said to be equal to the imported. - -Another receipt for bay rum is as follows:-- - -III. Alcohol of 95 per cent. 1 quart, rectified spirit of 60 per cent. -14 quarts, bay oil 1 oz., loaf sugar 4 ozs. - -Beat up the sugar with the oil and add the alcohol; then the spirit, -and finally filter. - -Mierzinski gives the following formulæ for bay rum:-- - -IV. Alcohol 8 ozs., oil of bay 40 drops, oil of mace 1 grain, oil of -orange 20 drops, Jamaica rum 1 oz., water enough to make 16 ozs. Digest -2 or 3 weeks, and filter through magnesia. - -V. Alcohol 8 ozs., oil of bay 2 drachms, oil of cloves 1 drop, mace 20 -grains, water warmed to 80° F. to make 12 ozs. Dissolve the oils in the -alcohol, digest the mace in the solution for a few days, filter and add -the water. The whole is allowed to stand, with occasional agitation, -for several days, and filtered through magnesia. - -VI. Jamaica rum 36 ozs., 95 per cent. alcohol 36 ozs., oil of bay ½ -oz., oil of pimento 1 drop, acetic ether 4 drops. Allow to stand at -least 3 weeks before using. - - -HAIR DYES.--The requirements of a good hair-dye are that it can be -readily applied, that it contains no injurious substances, and that -the coloration be as natural and durable as possible. These demands -are difficult to fulfil, and it cannot be said that there is one -of the ordinary hair dyes which in every respect comes up to them. -Black hair dyes give the most natural coloration, but the peculiar -shade of blue-black hair cannot be imitated. The medium colors, light -brown and blonde, are the least natural. Most dyes allow of rapid -coloration, though, in order to make the deception more complete, a -gradual coloration is by many persons preferred. Such gradual, though -only very slightly darker coloration, is attained by the use of hair -oils and certain animal fats containing a slight content of sulphur or -iron, such as freshly expressed egg oil and neat's-foot oil. It was -formerly believed that egg oil, if used in time, would even prevent the -hair from turning gray. The gradual darkening of the hair may also be -effected by agents, which are converted into colored combinations only -by the atmospheric oxygen or the content of sulphur in the hair, such -as extract from nut shells, tannin, pyrogallic acid and many metals, -the latter chiefly in the form of pomades or hair oil. Dilute acids -used for some time make the hair somewhat lighter. Mothers wishing to -keep the hair of their children blonde, avoid oils, and frequently wash -the heads of the children with vinegar or lemon juice. No coloration -is, however, durable; it becomes in the course of time gradually -weaker, and the new growth of hair always requires after-coloration. - -For dyeing the hair metallic salts are chiefly employed. Owing to -their poisonous action the use of _lead salts_ for the purpose is -prohibited in some countries, for instance, in Germany and Austria. -_Silver_ is used in the form of _nitrate of silver_ (lunar caustic). -In the presence of organic substances, as well as under the influence -of light, this combination is reduced, metallic silver in small black -grains being separated. Silver salts also give a black precipitate -of silver sulphide with sulphuretted hydrogen. By simply moistening -the hair with silver solution they become brown to brown-black, the -coloration appearing more rapidly by previously treating the hair with -pyrogallic acid, or, after the application of the silver solution, -with sulphydrate of sodium or potassium. The colorations produced -with nitrate of silver are very durable, but, if not dyed again for -some time, the hair acquires a greenish or reddish color, this being -especially the case if they were not sufficiently freed from fat before -dyeing. For freeing the hair from fat, wash the hair with a mixture of -1 part spirit of sal ammonia in 10 parts of brandy, and dry carefully. - -_Copper salts_ with certain substances, such as potassium ferrocyanide -solution, potassium sulphydrate, calcium sulphydrate, and pyrogallic -acid give dark-brown colorations. Of the copper salts, the sulphate in -ammoniacal solution is most frequently employed, though occasionally -also the chloride. These salts give a beautiful brown color to the -hair. Small quantities of copper salt are also frequently added to the -actual black dyes; the hair by this means acquiring a brown-black, -instead of a deep black color. - -All the _iron salts_, with the exception of the chloride, may be used -for dyeing the hair. Soluble iron salts by themselves make the hair -somewhat darker, but this slow, natural process is not relied on, and -a second substance forming dark colored combinations with the iron, -such as sulphur, tannin, or pyrogallic acid, is, as a rule, employed. -To this class belongs a _Turkish hair dye_, which, according to X. -Landerer, is prepared as follows: Gall-nuts converted to a fine powder -are mixed with oil and roasted in a pan until no more empyreumatic -vapors and odor are evolved. The black powder thus obtained is -made into a paste with water, and into it is stirred a finely -pulverized mass prepared from ferrous oxide, copper, and antimony, -the result being a deep black mass. This dye is called _Rastikopetra_ -(eyebrow-stone). It is one of the Oriental cosmetics used by both men -and women. - -_Potassium permanganate solution_ is reduced by organic substances, -peroxide of manganese being formed. A concentrated solution of this -salt imparts to the hair and skin an intense brown color, which, -however, is not very durable, and requires frequent renewing. - -_Pyrogallic acid_ may be used for darkening the hair, not only in -combination with metallic substances, but also by itself, or with -alkalies. Hair moistened with pyrogallic acid becomes under the -influence of light and air dark gray to blackish. However, the color is -not handsome, and appears only in the course of weeks. In connection -with alkalies, pyrogallic acid produces a red-brown to black-brown -coloration. - -Under the name of _Kohol_, an extremely fine powder, consisting of -black sulphide of antimony, is used in Egypt by all classes for -blackening the edges of the eyelids and the eyebrows. - -A hair dye, much used in the Orient, is _henna_, the dried and -pulverized leaves of _Lawsonia inermis_. By the women this powder is -used for coloring the hair and nails red-brown. In the Turkish sweating -baths the attendants scatter the henna upon the hair of the women and -tie it upon the finger nails. The women then frequently remain for -hours in the steam bath, whereby the powdered henna is converted into -an extract-like mass which colors hair and nails red-brown. It is said -that henna even colors the coal-black hair of the Arabs red-brown, -which is considered beautiful. Before treating with henna, the hair -must be freed from fat with soap or fuller's earth. - -Hair dyed red with henna acquires a beautiful black color when -subsequently treated with indigo, this mode of dyeing black being much -in vogue in the Orient. The process is as follows: The hair, being -freed from fat with soap, is divided into separate strands and anointed -with quite a stiff paste prepared from pulverized henna and lukewarm -water. The hair, after being smoothed, is allowed to remain for at -least one hour in contact with the paste, and is then rinsed off with -lukewarm water. Being slightly dried, it is then in the same manner -anointed with a paste prepared from indigo and water, and allowed to -remain in contact with it for one hour. The hairs which were colored -orange-red by the henna, now have a greenish-black appearance, but -by the oxidation of the indigo in a short time acquire an intensely -blue-black color, which is extraordinarily durable, the hair only after -several months requiring to be again dyed. - -The freshly expressed juice and the fresh parenchyma of _green walnut -shells_, or of unripe walnuts, gradually color light or gray hair dark -to nut-brown. The coloring substance is not thoroughly known, but is -very likely a phloroglucide; it is extracted by fats and alcohol, but, -according to Paschkis, is no longer effective in such solution. This, -however, is not correct in regard to the alcoholic extract, because the -extract from ordinary walnut shells, prepared by mixing the expressed -juice of green walnut shells with 10 parts of alcohol, allowing the -mixture to stand for ten days, and then filtering, also colors brown. - -_Peroxide of hydrogen_ bleaches organic substances, dark or red hair -being thereby changed to reddish-yellow or pale blonde. The coloration, -or rather bleaching, does not appear at once, but is complete only -after some time. The peroxide of hydrogen only exists in aqueous -solution, which should be quite concentrated (15 to 20 per cent.). -Owing to the mode of preparation, the solution always contains some -nitric acid and readily decomposes, when exposed to light and air, -whereby it becomes useless. - -In the following, a number of formulæ for hair-dyes are given. -According to their constitution, they may be divided into two groups, -viz: A. Dyes which contain the coloring matter in a finished state; -and, B. Dyes which are formed upon the hair by a chemical process. The -dye should first be applied in a dilute state, and the application -repeated in case the desired shade is not produced, since by the use -of the dye in a concentrated form a shade not resembling any natural -color might be obtained, hair which is to be colored black acquiring, -for instance, a metallic blue-black lustre. - - -A. SINGLE HAIR DYES. _Teinture Orientale (Karsi)._--Ambergris 2¾ -drachms, gall-nuts 4 lbs., pulverized iron 1¾ ozs., pulverized -copper 1 drachm, musk 1 drachm. Convert the gall-nuts to a fine powder, -and roast the powder in an iron pan, stirring constantly until it is -dark brown to blackish. Rub the powder together with the metallic -powders, and the perfume substances and keep the mixture in a damp -place. For use moisten some of the powder upon the hand and apply to -the hair, rubbing it in vigorously. In a few days the hair acquires a -deep black, quite natural color. In roasting, the tannin-substances -contained in the gall-nuts are converted into gallic and pyrogallic -acids, which yield with the metals combinations of a deep black color, -and are even readily converted into black-brown bodies (humin bodies). - -_Teinture Chinoise (Kohol)._--Gum-arabic 1 oz., Chinese ink 1¾ ozs., -rose-water 1 quart. Reduce the gum-arabic and Chinese ink to fine -powder, and triturate the powder in small quantities with rose water -until a homogeneous black fluid free from grains is formed. Collect -this fluid in a bottle and mix it with the remaining rose water. Kohol -is only suitable for persons with black hair and is especially used for -dyeing the eyebrows. The coloring matter of this preparation consisting -only of carbon in a very finely divided state, it is perfectly -harmless. - -_Potassium permanganate hair dye._--Potassium permanganate 5 ozs., -distilled water 2 quarts. Crystallized potassium permanganate dissolves -with great ease in water to a deep violet fluid. By bringing the -solution in contact with an organic substance--paper, linen, skin, -horn, hair--it rapidly discolors, imparting to the substances a brown -color, which originates from peroxide of manganese. Free the hair from -fat by washing, and apply the dilute solution with a soft brush. The -color appears immediately, and according to the degree of dilution, all -shades of color from blonde to darkest brown may be produced with this -perfectly harmless agent. It may, of course, also be used for dyeing -the beard. - -_Bismuth hair dye._--Subnitrate of bismuth 10 parts, 10 per cent. -solution of potassa and citric acid each a sufficient quantity, -glycerin 150 parts, water sufficient to make 300 parts. Intimately -mix the subnitrate of bismuth and the glycerin by trituration, then -heat the mixture in a water-bath, and gradually add to it solution of -potassa, under constant stirring, until the bismuth salt is dissolved. -Next add a concentrated solution of citric acid until only a slight -alkalinity remains. Finally add enough water to make 300 parts, and -perfume according to preference. - -_Walnut hair dye._--Bruise 40 parts of fresh green walnut peel with 5 -parts of alum, digest with 200 parts of olive oil until all moisture -has been dissipated, strain and perfume the oil according to preference. - -_Pyrogallic hair stain._--Pyrogallic acid ½ oz., water 3 ozs., -alcohol 1 oz. This liquid gives a dark brown color. - -B. DOUBLE HAIR DYES.--These and similar hair dyes consist of two -preparations, kept in bottles I and II. The bottle II, which serves -for the reception of the silver preparation, must be of blue or black -glass, since silver salts are decomposed by light. For use, pour some -of the fluid in bottle I into a cup, and moisten the hair with it by -means of a soft brush. Then pour the fluid in bottle II into another -cup, and apply it with another brush. - -_For dyeing brown._ I (in the white bottle).--Liver of sulphur 7 ozs., -alcohol 1 quart. II (in the dark bottle). Nitrate of silver 4 ozs., -distilled water 1 quart. - -_For dyeing black._ I (in the white bottle).--Liver of sulphur 8 ozs., -alcohol 1 quart. II (in the dark bottle).--Nitrate of silver 5 ozs., -distilled water 1 quart. - -Liver of sulphur is a leather-brown mass, readily soluble in water. -The solution has to be filtered before it is brought into the bottles. -By bringing the solutions together black sulphide of silver is formed, -which effects the dark coloration of the hair. After using the dye, a -disagreeable odor of stale eggs adheres to the hair, which is, however, -readily removed by washing. - -The silver hair dyes may also be made by preparing the fluid in bottle -II as follows: Add drop by drop water of ammonia to the silver nitrate, -kept constantly agitated until the precipitate formed is redissolved. - -_Tannin hair dye._ I (in the white bottle).--Pulverized gall-nuts -14 ozs., water 16 ozs., rose water 16 ozs. Boil the gall-nuts in -the water, strain the boiling fluid through a close cloth into the -rose water, and bring the fluid thus obtained, while still hot, into -the bottles, which should be immediately closed. (It is absolutely -necessary to bring the fluid hot into the bottles, as otherwise mould -is readily formed.) II (in the dark bottle).--Nitrate of silver 5 ozs., -distilled water 1 quart. Add water of ammonia to the silver solution -until the precipitate at first formed is redissolved. - -_Melanogène._ I (in the dark bottle).--Nitrate of silver 5½ drachms, -distilled water 2¾ ozs., water of ammonia 1 oz. II (in the white -bottle).--Pyrogallic acid ½ drachm, 40 per cent. spirit of wine 17 -ozs. - -_Eau d'Afrique._ I (in the dark bottle).--Nitrate of silver 1½ drachms, -distilled water 3½ ozs. II (in the white bottle).--Sodium sulphide 4½ -drachms, distilled water 3½ ozs. - -_Krinochrom._ I (in the white bottle).--Pyrogallic acid 5½ drachms, -distilled water 6¼ ozs., alcohol 5½ ozs. II (in the dark bottle). -Nitrate of silver 6¾ drachms, water of ammonia 2 ozs., distilled -water 10½ ozs. - -_Copper hair dye._ I (in the white bottle).--Potassium ferrocyanide -(yellow prussiate of potash) 7 ozs., distilled water 1 quart. II (in -the dark bottle).--Cupric sulphate (blue vitriol) 7 ozs., distilled -water 1 quart. Add to the cupric sulphate solution water of ammonia -until the pale blue precipitate at first formed is dissolved to a -beautiful dark blue fluid. This hair dye gives a dark brown color, but -great care has to be exercised in its use, the yellow prussiate of -potash being very poisonous. - - -DEPILATORIES.--While the number of agents for promoting the growth of -the hair is a very small one, and their efficacy not above doubt, there -are, on the other hand, quite a number of very effective agents for -the removal of hair, sulphur combinations being most frequently used -for the purpose. _Rhusma_ is a depilatory which has long been known, -and is still almost exclusively used in the Orient. It consists of 1 -part orpiment and 6 parts of lime slaked to a powder. Mix intimately -by passing the ingredients through a sieve, and preserve the mixture -in tightly-closed vessels. For use, stir some of the powder to a paste -with water, and apply it to the place upon which the hairs are to be -destroyed. As soon as the layer of paste begins to dry remove it with a -thin shaving of wood. Owing to the energetic action of this depilatory -upon the skin, ladies are advised not to use it for the face. - -Combinations of sulphur with the alkalies and alkaline earths are -much used as depilatories. Of these, _sodium sulphydrate_, however, -should never be used, without the advice of a physician, as it acts -very energetically upon the skin, and frequently leaves scars behind. -_Calcium sulphide_ is contained in Boettger's depilatory. It is usually -prepared by heating at a low red heat in a securely-closed crucible -an intimate mixture of 100 parts of finely-powdered quicklime with 90 -parts of precipitated sulphur. Of the calcium sulphide thus obtained, -mix 1 lb. with 8 ozs. of starch and 7 drachms of lemon oil. Apply the -paste to the place upon which the hairs are to be destroyed, allowing -it to remain 20 to 30 seconds. The action of _barium sulphide_, which -is frequently used as a depilatory, is much less energetic than that -of calcium sulphide. It is, for instance, a constituent of Bartholow's -depilatory, which consists of barium sulphide 1 part, caustic lime 1 -part, and starch 2 parts, made into a paste with alcohol. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - -COSMETICS. - - -Under this heading will be considered toilet vinegars, washes, perfumed -powders, pastes, skin pomades, as well as paints. - -The fabrication of cosmetics is an important branch of perfumery. The -materials used for the purpose should be selected and of good quality -even for cheap articles, which are, of course, also represented in the -following receipts. - - -SKIN COSMETICS.--_Toilet vinegars._--Perfumed vinegars, when added to -wash water, have a refreshing effect and are also used as fumigating -agents by mixing them with water in a dish and placing the latter in -the room. - -_Vinaigre de Bully._--Alcohol of best quality 10 quarts, tinctures -of orris root, tolu balsam, benzoin and storax, each 1 lb., olibanum -tincture ½ lb., vanilla tincture and best lavender oil 5¼ ozs., -bergamot oil and lemon oil each 4¼ ozs., acetic acid 2 lbs. - -_Vinaigre de toilette à la rose._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, -benzoin tincture 1 lb., angelica tincture 8 ozs., _extrait rose_ No. 1, -1 lb., French rose geranium oil 3½ ozs., acetic acid 14 ozs. - -_Vinaigre de toilette à la violette._--Alcohol of best quality 5 -quarts, orris-root tincture 2 quarts, tinctures of benzoin and storax -each 7 ozs., bergamot oil 2½ ozs., liquid orris-root oil[24] 11 -drachms, acetic acid 1 lb. - - [24] See foot-note, p. 257. - -_Vinaigre de toilette héliotrope._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, -tinctures of orris root and vanilla each 1 quart, musk root tincture 3½ -ozs., benzoin tincture 1 lb., bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., verbena oil and -palmarosa oil each 14 drachms, clove oil 8¼ drachms, acetic acid 1 lb. - -_Vinaigre de toilette orange._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, -benzoin tincture 10½ ozs., abelmosk tincture and vitivert tincture each -8 ozs., civet tincture 14 drachms, Portugal oil 8 ozs., acetic acid 14 -ozs. - -_Vinaigre de toilette._--Alcohol of best quality 10 quarts, orris-root -tincture 1⅗ lbs., tinctures of benzoin, tolu balsam and angelica -each 1 lb., French rose-geranium oil 1¾ ozs., bergamot oil 4¼ ozs., -lemon oil and lavender oil each 3½ ozs., neroli oil 8¼ drachms, best -rosemary oil 11 drachms, peppermint oil 5½ drachms, acetic acid 2 lbs. - -_Aromatic vinegar._--Tincture of benzoin 1 oz., alcohol 1⅛ oz., -acetic ether and extract of jasmine each 1½ ozs., acetic acid 3½ ozs., -oil of rose 10 drops, oils of neroli and wintergreen each 5 drops. - -_English aromatic vinegar._--Crystallized acetic acid 20 ozs., camphor -2 ozs., oil of lavender 10 drops, oil of cloves 30 drops, oil of -cinnamon 15 drops. Mix and dissolve. - -The preparation is used for smelling-bottles. The vials are first -filled with sulphate of potassa in small crystals, and enough acetic -acid is added to thoroughly moisten the salt. The use of sulphate of -potassa is said to have originated from the fact, that the acid mixture -was formerly obtained by introducing into the vials acetate of potassa -and a sufficiency of sulphuric acid. Whether this be true or not, -sulphate of potassa constitutes an excellent medium for retaining the -liquid in the bottle. It acts simply as an incorrodible sponge. - -_Toilet vinegar._--Essence of bergamot 20 drops, essence of ambergris -4 drachms, essence of vanilla and oil of neroli each 30 drops, strong -acetic acid 160 drops, alcohol 6 ozs. - -_Washes._--Washes are mostly milky fluids or emulsions, formed by the -fine division of resins or balsams in water, benzoin and myrrh being -especially employed for the purpose. Of the former, it was at one time -believed that fumigations with it every evening after washing would -prevent wrinkles in the face. The emulsions are used by adding one to -two tablespoonfuls to the wash-water. Perfumed glycerin is also much -employed as an addition to wash-water. - -_Virginal milk_ (_Lait virginal_).--Alcohol of finest quality 2½ -quarts, bergamot oil and Turkish rose oil each 5½ drachms, benzoin -tincture 1 quart. - -Pulverize in a porcelain mortar about 14 drachms of sugar, add the -bergamot oil and rose oil and mix intimately. Now bring the paste-like -substance into a glass bottle, rinse out the mortar with the alcohol -and add the latter to the contents of the bottle. Close the latter with -a well-fitting stopper and place it in a warm room for 8 days, shaking -frequently. Then add the benzoin tincture, mix intimately and finally -filter through paper. This fluid is used by adding sufficient of it -to the wash-water to form an emulsion, which exerts a refreshing and -invigorating effect upon the skin and olfactory nerves. - -_Rose milk_ (_Lait de rose_).--Rose water 5 lbs., white beeswax and -comminuted Castile soap each 3½ ozs., potash 4½ ozs., _Extrait rose_ -No. 1 8 ozs. - -Heat the rose-water in an enamelled or porcelain vessel, and dissolve -in it the Castile soap. Then add the wax, and, when this is dissolved, -the potash, stirring constantly, while the substances are dissolving. -When solution is complete, strain the milk-like fluid through a cloth -(best gauze or muslin) into another vessel, cover it and allow it to -cool. When cold add the _Extrait rose_, shake thoroughly and fill it -into bottles for sale. - -If the _Lait de rose_ is to be rose color, add very carefully a small -quantity of corallin tincture and shake vigorously. - -Besides wax, fatty or oily substances should not be employed in the -preparation of these emulsions, as otherwise they would soon become -rancid. - -_Almond milk_ (_Lait d'amandes amères_).--Distilled water 5 lbs., -bitter almonds 1 lb., white beeswax 1¾ ozs., comminuted Castile soap -2½ ozs., potash 3½ ozs., bitter-almond oil 8¼ drachms, dissolved in -extract from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 8 ozs. - -Scald and peel the bitter almonds. Then convert them to a paste by -pounding in a clean mortar, bring the paste into the distilled water, -and extract in a water-bath for about ½ hour. Then strain the liquid -through a cloth, successively dissolve the other substances in the -strained fluid in the water-bath, and when all is dissolved, strain -again and proceed as given for rose milk. The bitter-almond oil is -dissolved in the extract from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ and added last of all -to the liquid mass. - -_Lily milk_ (_Lait de lys_).--Rose water, orange-flower water, and -jasmine water each 1 quart, white beeswax 3½ ozs., Castile soap 2½ -ozs., potash and orris-root tincture each 3½ ozs., cumarin tincture -1¾ ozs., dissolved in musk-root tincture 3½ ozs., bergamot oil 1¾ -ozs. Proceed as given for _Lait de Rose_. - -In regard to the Castile soap, it may here be remarked that it -should be neutral and contain no excess of oil, as otherwise all the -preparations above given might, in a short time, become rancid. - -_Perfumed glycerin with rose odor._--Chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. -10 lbs., _Extrait rose_ No. 1, 8 ozs. - -By adding the _Extrait rose_, the glycerin becomes turbid, but -clarifies by shaking thoroughly and allowing the mixture to stand -quietly for several days. Filtering the fluid is not advisable, and -besides entirely useless. - -_Perfumed glycerin with fruit odor._--Chemically pure glycerin of 28° -B. 10 lbs., any kind of fruit ether 1¾ ozs. Shake thoroughly. The -glycerin, if chemically pure, is not rendered turbid by the fruit -ether, which, of course, must also be of the best quality. - - -PERFUMED MEALS AND PASTES.--The perfumed meals are frequently used -for washing in place of soap, or they are applied after washing, or -shaving, to the skin to prevent the latter from becoming rough or -chapped. The pastes are applied in order to make the skin softer. - -_Farin de noisette_ (_nut meal_).--Best quality wheat flour 3 lbs., -almond meal 1½ lbs., orris-root powder 1 lb., bergamot oil 2 ozs. - -Mix the ingredients intimately and pass the mixture through a fine -sieve. - -_Farin d'amandes amères_ (_almond meal_).--Best quality wheat flour and -almond meal each 3 lbs., bitter-almond oil 1 oz. - -Mix the ingredients intimately and pass the mixture through a fine -sieve. - -_Pate d'amandes au miel_ (_honey almond paste_).--Best quality almond -meal 2 lbs., honey 4 lbs., chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 2 lbs., -fresh olive oil 4 lbs., bitter-almond oil 1¾ ozs., the yolks of 20 -eggs. - -Sift the almond meal into a capacious earthenware dish. Mix the honey -and glycerin after slightly warming them. Beat the yolks of the eggs -in a small dish with a tablespoon until a uniform mass is formed. Now -add alternately of the mixture of honey and glycerin and of the olive -oil to the almond meal, work the whole thoroughly with the pestle, -then add the yolks of the eggs, stirring constantly, and finally the -bitter-almond oil. The whole now forms a viscous mass. It is best to -keep the freshly-prepared paste in a well-closed earthenware pot in a -cool place for about 14 days before distributing it into boxes, because -after the ingredients are mixed together a slight fermentation takes -place which might cause damage by bursting the lids of the porcelain -boxes. - -Ladies use this paste for producing a fine soft skin, upon the hands, -face, and neck, for which, in fact, it has proved excellent. - -_Poudre de riz à la rose._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., -_Extrait rose_ No. 1, 3½ ozs., French rose-geranium oil 14 drachms, -clove oil 2¾ drachms. - -The ingredients are intimately mixed and passed through a sieve. The -perfumes are brought together in a glass and thoroughly shaken. The -same directions hold good for all succeeding receipts for _Poudre de -riz_. Of talc only the whitest pieces should be used, the Briancon talc -or French chalk being very suitable for the purpose, it yielding a very -white and delicate powder. It is prepared as follows: Over 1 part of -talc pour 2 parts of vinegar, let it stand, with frequent shaking, for -14 days, then filter and thoroughly wash the talc with distilled water. - -If rose-colored _poudre de riz rose_ is demanded, add to the -proportions of weight above given about 1 oz. of madder, triturate it -thoroughly with the powder, perfume, triturate again, and finally pass -the whole through a fine sieve. - -These rice powders are best kept in well-closed tin canisters. - -_Poudre de riz héliotrope._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., -bergamot oil 10 drachms, French rose-geranium oil 5 drachms, clove oil -2½ drachms, vanilla tincture 10 drachms, _Extrait héliotrope_ No. 1, -1¾ ozs. - -Proceed as directed for _Poudre de riz à la rose_. - -_Poudre de riz à la violette._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 -ozs., bergamot oil 10 drachms, liquid orris-root oil 2½ drachms, -_Extrait Violette_ No. 1, 1 oz., cumarin tincture 5 drachms. - -Proceed as directed for _Poudre riz à la rose_. - -_Poudre de riz orange._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., -Portugal oil 1 oz., petit-grain oil 5 drachms, extract from _Pommade -Orange_ 1 oz. - -Proceed as directed for _Poudre riz à la rose_. - -_Poudre de riz muguet._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., -ylang-ylang oil, wintergreen oil, angelica oil, and bitter-almond -oil each 2 drops, bergamot oil 5 drops, storax tincture 14 drachms, -_Extrait Muguet_ No. 1, 3½ ozs. - -Proceed as directed for _Poudre de riz à la rose_. - -_Poudre de riz ixora._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 oz., -bergamot oil 2½ drachms, Ceylon cinnamon oil 1 drachm, tinctures of -orris root and vanilla each 1¾ ozs., extract from _Pomm. Cassie_ or -_Extrait ixora_ 1¾ ozs. - -Proceed as directed for _Poudre de riz à la rose_. - -_Poudre de riz bouquet._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., -bergamot oil 8 drachms, African rose oil and Ceylon cinnamon oil each -2¾ drachms, _Extrait ess-bouquet_ No. 1, 3½ ozs. - -Proceed as directed for _Poudre de riz à la rose_. - - -COLD CREAMS AND LIP-SALVES.--The purpose of cold creams and lip-salves -is to impart lustre to the skin and protect it from cracking in changes -of temperature. - -_Cold cream._--Fat-almond oil 3 lbs., spermaceti 5¼ ozs., white beeswax -7 ozs., best rose water 1 quart, bergamot oil 14 drachms, Turkish rose -oil 5½ drachms. - -Melt in a porcelain dish in the water-bath, first the spermaceti -and wax, then add the almond oil, and when the whole forms a liquid -allow the previously warmed rose water to flow in slowly, stirring -constantly. Now take the dish from the water-bath, and with a large -spoon of silver or horn stir the mass until it begins to thicken. Then -stir in the perfume and fill the finished cold cream in boxes. - -_Vaseline cold cream._--White vaseline 2 lbs., fat-almond oil 1 lb., -white beeswax 1¾ ozs., bergamot oil 14 drachms, French rose-geranium -oil and Turkish rose oil each 2½ drachms. - -Proceed (without the rose water) as directed for cold cream. - -_Glycerin cream._--Fat-almond oil 3 lbs., white beeswax and spermaceti -each 7 ozs., chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 1 lb., bergamot oil -1 oz., clove oil, Turkish rose oil, and French geranium oil each 2½ -drachms. Proceed as above. - -_Crême de concombre._--Fat-almond oil 8 ozs., white beeswax 10 drachms, -spermaceti 12 drachms, freshly-expressed cucumber juice 7 ozs., -volatile cucumber oil 2½ drachms, bergamot oil 1½ drachms. - -Grate the cucumbers on a grater, place the grated mass upon a clean -white cloth, and gently express the juice so that no mucus passes -through the cloth. The cucumber juice is slightly warmed, the rest of -the process being the same as with cold cream. - -_Glycerin gelée._--Gum-tragacanth 5½ drachms, swelled up in rose water -10½ ozs., chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 7 ozs., honey 3½ ozs., -_Extrait rose_ No. 1, 1¾ ozs. - -Convert the gum tragacanth to a coarse powder, bring the powder into -a capacious glass flask, pour the rose water upon it, and, after -corking the flask, let it stand for about 3 days, shaking it frequently -and vigorously. Then strain the swelled gum tragacanth, which now -represents a thick fluid, through a white cloth or fine-meshed sieve -into a dish, and after adding the glycerin, honey, and _Extrait rose_, -mix the whole intimately, and fill the tubes or glasses with the -finished preparation. It is an approved remedy for chapped skin. - -_Glycerin jelly._--Glycerin 1 lb., fat-almond oil 3 lbs., soap 2½ ozs., -orange-peel oil 2¾ drachms, thyme oil 5½ drachms. - -Mix the soap with the glycerin, gradually add the oil, and finally the -perfume. - -_Cream of roses._--Gum tragacanth 25 grains, glycerin 1 oz., alcohol -½ oz., water 6½ ozs., boric acid 40 grains, spirits of lavender and -bergamot each 1 oz. - -_Boroglycerin cream._--Dissolve 1 part of boric acid in 24 parts of -glycerin; add to this solution 5 parts of lanolin and 70 parts of -petrolatum. This preparation is said to be excellent for chapped hands, -lips, etc. - -_Récamier cream._--The following formula is said to produce something -quite similar to this preparation: zinc oxide 4 ozs., glycerin 13 fluid -drachms, water 5 fluid drachms, spirit of rose (4 drachms to 1 pint) 1 -fluid drachm. - -_Preparations for chapped hands._--I. Quince seed 2 ozs., rose water 16 -ozs., glycerin 32 ozs., tincture of benzoin 2 ozs. Macerate the quince -seeds in the rose water 24 hours, strain, and add the glycerin and -benzoin. - -II. Balsam of Peru 1 drachm, purified wool fat 1 oz. Perfume to suit. - -III. Menthol 1.5 parts, salol 2, olive oil 2, lanolin 50. Apply twice -daily. The pain soon ceases, the skin softens and the chaps quickly -disappear. - -IV. Quince seed 1½ drachms, boric acid 4 grains, carbolic acid 10 -grains, glycerin 2 ozs., alcohol 3 ozs., cologne 2 ozs., oil of -lavender 20 drops, glycerite of starch 2 ozs., water sufficient to make -1 pint. Dissolve the boric acid in 8 ozs. of water, macerate the quince -seed in the solution for three hours and then press through a straining -cloth, add the glycerin, carbolic acid and glycerite of starch and mix -thoroughly. Mix the cologne and oil of lavender with the alcohol, add -the solution to the mucilage and mix the whole well. - -_Wash for the hands.-_-Tannin 8 grains, glycerin 5 drachms, rose water -4 ozs. Mix and filter. The hands should be washed with soap in soft -water, or water to which a little borax has been added, thoroughly -dried and then well rubbed with the lotion. - -_Nail-powder._--The following preparation serves for the purpose of -imparting smoothness and lustre to the finger nails. For use apply some -of the powder to a piece of soft glove-leather and rub the nails until -they show lustre. - -Stannic oxide (putty powder) 2 lbs., carmine 5½ drachms, oils of -bergamot and lavender each 2½ drachms. Rub the stannic oxide as fine as -possible and mix it in the mortar with the other ingredients. - -_Lip-salve_ No. 1.--_Pomm. Rose_ No. 24 or 30, 8 ozs., best carmine -nacarat 2½ drachms. - -Convert the carmine to a fine powder and thoroughly triturate it with -the _Pomm. Rose_ in a porcelain mortar until no more specks of carmine -are perceptible. By this trituration the salve becomes very soft -and delicate, so that it can be conveniently pressed into the small -boxes. A pleasing lustre is then imparted to the surface of the salve -by carefully moving each box to and fro over the flame of an alcohol -lamp. It may here be remarked that carmine nacarat is the best coloring -matter for lip-salve, it being far more resistant than, for instance, -alkannin, which, in contact with the skin, readily acquires a bluish -coloration. - -If lip-salve of a more solid consistency is desired, the object may be -attained by the addition of a few drachms of white beeswax. However, -in this case, the pomade must be melted in a water-bath, or the pomade -and wax melted together. Then add the carmine, stir until cold, fill -into boxes and make the surface lustrous over an alcohol flame. - -_Lip-salve_ No. 2.--_Pomm. Rose_ No. 6 or 12, 10½ ozs., _Huile antique -rose_ No. 6 or 12, 14 drachms, white beeswax 5½ drachms, carmine -nacarat 2¾ drachms. - -Melt the wax in a porcelain or enamelled vessel, then add, first, the -oil, combine it with the wax, then add the pomade and finally the -carmine. When all this is intimately mixed, stir it until cold. The -further process is the same as given for No. 1. - - -PAINTS.--The object of paints is to hide blemishes of the skin and to -impart to it a different color--as a rule a youthful one--from that -bestowed by nature, though under certain conditions, especially in the -case of actors, they are also employed for the purpose of changing the -expression of the face. A distinction is made between pulverulent, -solid, liquid and fat paints. - - -PULVERULENT PAINTS (POWDERS).--The simplest powder is wheat starch. -It forms a dull white powder with a bluish lustre, and is perfectly -harmless. Powdered talc, prepared in the manner previously described -(p. 330), is also much used for powder. By mixing 100 parts of prepared -talc, while still moist, with 12 parts of spermaceti, previously rubbed -to a moist powder with some rectified alcohol, and drying at a moderate -heat, a product known in commerce as "Blanc fard," or "Blanc français," -is obtained. - -Talc by itself not furnishing a beautiful white, it is mixed, according -to circumstances, with _subnitrate of bismuth_ (_flake-white_), -_magnesia_, _chalk_ or _zinc-white_. _White lead_, though frequently -used, cannot be recommended, it being injurious to health. Subnitrate -of bismuth furnishes the best white; it has, however, the disadvantage -of turning brown in air containing sulphuretted hydrogen. Zinc-white -does not have this defect, but lacks the lustre and pure white color. - -Customary mixtures for powders are as follows:-- - -I. Carbonate of magnesia and wheat starch each 5 parts, prepared talc -15, zinc-white 10. - -II. Carbonate of magnesia and chalk each 5 parts, prepared talc 15, -subnitrate of bismuth 20. - -The powders are prepared in three colors: white, rose-color and -yellowish. To heighten the white color the powder is mixed with about -⅓ of one per cent. of ultra-marine. For rose color some carmine is -used, and for coloring yellowish some carmine and yellow ochre. - -A powder for coloring more intensely red is prepared as follows: Mix -100 parts of prepared talc with 2.5 or more parts of carmine, according -to the desired shade of color. The carmine is triturated by itself and -in small portions added to the talc. It should not be dissolved, as -given in many directions, in ammonia, it losing thereby its fiery red. -To obtain an especially delicate powder, the finished article should be -carefully bolted through silk. - - -SOLID PAINTS.--Solid paints may be prepared from the above-mentioned -powders by stirring them to a paste with thin gum solution. - -_Ordinary red paint_ (_rouge_).--Prepared talc 2 lbs., carmine 1 oz., -gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared from distilled water 3½ ozs. and -gum-tragacanth 2¼ drachms, best olive oil 5½ drachms, best alcohol 1 -oz., spirits of sal ammoniac ½ tablespoonful, distilled water as much -as required. - -_Fine red paint_ (_rouge_).--Prepared talc 2 lbs., carmine 1½ ozs., -gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared from distilled water 3½ ozs. and -gum-tragacanth 2¼ drachms, best olive oil 5½ drachms, _Extrait rose_ -No. 1, 1 oz., spirits of sal ammoniac ½ tablespoonful, rose water as -much as required. - -_White paint._--Prepared talc 2 lbs., gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared -from distilled water 3½ ozs. and gum-tragacanth 2¼ drachms, best olive -oil 5½ drachms, _Extrait rose_ No. 1, 1 oz., rose water as much as -required. - -The above-mentioned paints may be filled in small porcelain boxes, -which must, however, be hermetically closed to prevent drying out. To -obviate the latter, the paints may be mixed with glycerin, which must, -however, be carefully done so that the mass does not become liquid; too -much glycerin may also make the paint blue. - -Regarding the preparation of these paints, the following may be -said: The prepared talc is passed through a fine-meshed sieve into a -porcelain dish. The carmine is rubbed fine in a porcelain mortar and -then triturated with water[25] in the same mortar until no more specks -of carmine are visible. Now add the dissolved carmine to the talc in -the porcelain dish, stir thoroughly with a horn or wooden spoon, and -gradually add sufficient rose water to form a dough-like mass. Then add -to this mass about 1¾ ozs. of gum-tragacanth mucilage, prepared -3 or 4 days before from 2¼ drachms of pulverized gum-tragacanth and -3½ ozs. of water, work the mass thoroughly through, and add the 5½ -drachms of best olive oil. The oil being also incorporated with the -mass, mix in the 1 oz. of _Extrait rose_ or alcohol, and again work the -mass thoroughly through, when the paint is ready to be brought upon -porcelain plates. - - [25] For fine preparations, rose water is used; for ordinary, - distilled water. - -The procedure is now as follows: By means of a spoon bring a quantity -of the paint, about the size of three hazelnuts upon the centre of a -porcelain plate, spread it out uniformly to the edge of the plate by -knocking the latter against the table, and in the same manner cover -6 or 8 plates. These are the test-plates. Tie a piece of paper over -the dish containing the rest of the paint and set it aside. Place the -plates coated with paint in a dry place to dry, but do not expose them -to sunlight, nor should soaps be kept in the room, as in both cases the -paint would become blue. After 12 to 18 hours the paint upon the plates -will be dry, and now comes the most difficult part of the manipulation. -With a small horn-knife or the sharp edge of a playing card scrape off -very carefully and uniformly a small quantity from the surface of the -paint, proceeding from the edges towards the centre of the plate. Then, -to see whether the paint adheres firmly to the plate, knock the edge of -the latter quite vigorously against the table. If it adheres firmly, -cover the entire plate with a piece of watered silk, catch the ends of -the latter beneath the plate with the left hand, and, with the palm of -the right, run quite hard over the silk. By this means the moiré of the -silk is imprinted upon the paint, giving it a nice appearance. Proceed -in the same manner with the six or eight test-plates, and if the paint -upon them bears the manipulation without dropping off, work up the -rest of the paint in the dish. If, however, the paint does not adhere -to the plates, it is proof of it containing not enough gum-tragacanth. -In this case add some of the mucilage to the paint in the dish, work -it thoroughly through, and proceed in the manner described. Packing, -labelling, etc., being subject to fashion, need not here be described, -but as the charm of novelty contributes much to the sale of an article, -the manufacturer should make it his business to invent new attractive -designs, without too much imitating others. - -_Red stick-paint_ (_Stick rouge_).--Prepared talc 1 lb., carmine -5½ drachms, olive oil 2¾ drachms, alcohol 8¼ drachms, spirit of -sal ammoniac a good teaspoonful, distilled water and gum-tragacanth -mucilage as much as required. - -The mode of preparation is the same as for solid paints, except that in -order to give the rouge more consistency, less water and gum-tragacanth -mucilage are to be used. - -For moulding the rouge into sticks, round tin moulds about 2½ inches -long and of the thickness of a finger are used. To facilitate the -removal of the rouge sticks, the inside of the moulds is rubbed with -a rag moistened with olive oil and wrapped around a thin stick of -wood. After removing the sticks from the mould, they are allowed to -dry superficially, and next wrapped first in tissue paper and then in -tinfoil, one end, however, being left free from paper and tinfoil. They -are finally labelled and packed in paste-board boxes. - -_White stick paint_ is prepared in the same manner as stick rouge, with -the exception that the carmine is omitted. - -_Rouge en feuilles._--Prepared talc 1¾ ozs., carmine 2¾ drachms, -olive oil 10 to 15 drops, spirits of sal ammoniac about 50 drops, pure -alcohol 5¼ ozs., distilled water or rose water 8 ozs., gum-tragacanth -mucilage 1¾ ozs. - -The carmine is first rubbed fine, then the olive oil, spirits of sal -ammoniac, and gum-tragacanth mucilage are successively thoroughly -triturated with the carmine, next the talc is added, then the water, -and finally the alcohol. Mix all intimately in a mortar with the -pestle. The whole forms a fluid which, by means of a fine brush, is -applied to a square piece of white card board, so that a circular -disk the size of a silver dollar lies in the centre of the paper. The -application of the rouge to the paper has to be repeated three or -four times, allowing one layer to dry before applying the next. When -the last layer is dry, the rouge is smoothed by laying a piece of -tissue paper upon it and running the broad side of a paper cutter over -the tissue paper. In packing, a piece of tissue is laid between the -separate pieces. - - -LIQUID PAINTS. Liquid paints are chiefly used by actors. - -_Liquid rouge._--Rose water 1½ quarts, carmine 1¾ ozs., _Extrait -rose_ No. 1, 1 lb. - -Heat the rose water, without allowing it to boil, in a glazed -earthenware vessel, add the carmine, previously rubbed fine, to the hot -rose water, and stir the fluid with a clean wooden spatula until the -carmine is completely divided. Then take the vessel from the fire and -add a tablespoonful of spirits of sal ammoniac. The latter imparts to -the rouge a brighter red, but not too much of it should be used, as -otherwise the rouge acquires a bluish shade, and besides the odor of -the spirits of sal ammoniac is not exactly agreeable. When the rouge -is cold add 1 lb. of _Extrait de rose_, mix the whole intimately, and -filter through white filtering paper into a clean glass bottle. The -rouge has to be protected from sunlight. - -_White liquid paint._--Fine zinc-white 3 lbs., rose water or orange -water 3½ quarts. - -In a clean enamelled vessel boil the zinc-white in 5 quarts of -distilled water, stirring constantly, until about 3 quarts of the -water are evaporated. Then take the vessel from the fire and allow the -fluid to stand quietly for ½ hour. Then carefully decant off the -supernatant water, pour the 3½ quarts of rose water or orange water -upon the zinc-white, stir thoroughly, and fill in bottles. - -_Fat paints._--Fat paints of various colors and shades are prepared -chiefly for the use of actors. The ground mass consists of _Blanc -fard_ or _Blanc français_, or simply of pulverized talc bolted through -silk. It is colored, according to the color desired, with carmine, -eosin, sienna, lamp black, or aniline colors, and incorporated in the -proportion of 1½ ground mass to 1 fatty mass, with the fatty mass -consisting of white wax 3 parts and olive oil 7 parts; _or_ paraffin -1½ parts and white vaseline 2 parts. The fatty mass is melted in the -water-bath, the powder stirred in, and after allowing the mixture to -cool somewhat, it is perfumed and poured into tin tubes previously -slightly warmed. - -Besides the above-mentioned _fat paints in sticks_, there are also _fat -paints in porcelain boxes_, which are of a somewhat softer consistency. -They are prepared in white, rose color, and yellowish. A few receipts -for them are as follows:-- - -_Crême de Lys._--Melt 3½ ozs. of spermaceti and 7 ozs. of white wax in -the water-bath, and after taking the mass from the fire mix it with -3⅕ lbs. of subnitrate of bismuth, previously rubbed fine, with -1⅘ lbs. of almond oil. Then allow to cool somewhat, next stir until -entirely cold, and perfume. - -_Crême de rose._--Spermaceti 3½ ozs., white wax 7 ozs., _Blanc -Français_ 3⅕ lbs., carmine 8¼ drachms, almond oil 1-4/5 lbs. - -Proceed as directed for _crême de lys_. - - - - -INDEX. - - - Abelmosk or musk-seed tincture, 230, 231 - - Absorption or enfleurage, process of, 60-65 - - Acacia oil, 87 - - Acetic amyl acetate or amyl acetate, 201 - ethyl or ethyl acetate, 201-204 - - Acid number, 81 - - African and French geranium oils, 112, 113 - - Alcohol and sulphuric acid test, Hager's, 78 - chloroform, and benzine, quantitative determination of adulterations - with, 72, 73 - or spirit of wine, detection of, in volatile oil, 68-71 - - Alcoholic perfumes, 219-255 - - Allspice, oil of, or pimento oil, 136 - - Almond bandoline, 305 - meal, 329 - milk, 327 - oil (bitter), 87-93 - adulterations of, 90-92 - artificial, 89, 90 - tincture, 234 - paste, honey, 329 - - Alpine herb oil, 301 - - Ambergris, 31, 186-188 - adulterations of, 188 - tincture, 229 - - Ambrein or ambrin, 187 - - America and England, use and preparation of nitrous ether in, 212-214 - - American curled mint oil, 132 - English, or Canadian castor, 185, 186 - musk-rat, musk of the, 181, 182 - oil of turpentine, 149 - peppermint oil, 132, 133 - - American soap industry, consumption of citronella oil in the, 108 - storax, 172 - - Amygdalin, 88 - - Amyl acetate or acetic amyl acetate, 201 - valerate or valerianic ether, 214-216 - - Anethol, 111 - - Angelica oil, 92, 93 - root tincture, 231 - - Animal kingdom, perfume-substances from the, 178-188 - - Anise-seed oil, 93, 94 - - Antiseptic gargle, 275 - - Apparatus for alcoholic extracts from flower pomades, 223-225 - for determining the percentage of volatile oil in a vegetable - substance, 40, 41 - for distilling lemon oil, 118-120 - for the absorption process, 62-64 - for the distillation of volatile oil, 41-46 - for the extraction of volatile oils, 48-57 - for the preparation of tinctures, 226, 227 - - Apple essence, 216 - ether, 216 - pomade, 289 - - Apricot essence, 216, 217 - ether, 216 - - Aqua mellis, 255 - - Arabian physicians, receipts for cosmetics in the writings of, 26 - - Arnica tooth-tincture, 276 - - Aromatic vinegar, 325 - English, 325, 326 - - Artificial musk, 182, 183 - perfume-materials, 189-218 - - Athens, luxurious use of ointments in, 22 - - Atomizers, 263 - - Atomizing, pine odor for, 265 - - Attar of roses or rose oil, 136-144 - - Austrian oil of turpentine, 148 - - Avicenna, receipts for cosmetics in the writings of, 26 - - - Balm oil, 96 - - Balm-oil tincture, 234 - - Balsam, Brazilian, 166 - Carthagena, 166 - fumigating, 265, 266 - Peru, 159-166 - pine oil, 149, 150 - Tolu, 166-168 - new variety of, 167, 168 - white Indian, 172 - Peru, 172 - Peruvian, 160, 161 - - Balsams, 155, 156 - and resins, 155-177 - - Balsamum Peruvianum, 159-166 - - Bandoline, almond, 305 - rose, 305 - - Bandolines, 304, 305 - - Barenthin's application of Hübl's iodine method to volatile oils, 80 - - Bartholow's depilatory, 323 - - Bartlett, W. W., menthol pungent as prepared by, 260 - Preston salt as prepared by, 260 - - Basil oil, 96 - tincture, 234 - - Bayberry oil, or oil of bay leaves, 96, 97 - - Bay leaves, oil of, or bayberry oil, 96, 97 - - Bay rum, 312-314 - formulæ for, 313, 314 - - Beard, Rogers's pomade for producing a, 294 - - Bear's grease, 285 - pomade, 289 - - Beauty-patch or mouche, 28 - - Beef-marrow pomade, 294 - - Benzine, detection of, in volatile oil, 71, 72 - - Benzoic ether or ethyl benzoate, 204, 205 - - Benzoin, 157-159 - amygdaloid, 157 - determination of cinnamic acid in, 158, 159 - flowers, 159 - in tears, 157 - lump, 157 - pomade, 290 - tincture, 229 - treatment of fat oils with, 300, 301 - varieties of, 158 - - Bergamot oil, 97, 98 - tincture, 234 - - Betula lenta, oil from, 152 - - Beyer frères, apparatus for alcoholic extracts from flower - pomades, 223-225 - for the preparation of tinctures, 226, 227 - - Birch oil, 152 - - Bismuth hair dye, 320 - nitrate of, 335, 336 - - Bisulphide of carbon, 48 - - Black hair dyes, 321 - tooth-powder, 280 - wax pomade, 299 - - Blanc fard or blanc français, 335 - - Blondel, Dr., memoir on the star anise tree, by, 95 - - Blonde wax pomade, 299 - - Boettger's depilatory, 323 - - Boroglycerin cream, 333 - - Bouchardat and Lafont, conversion of oil of turpentine into lemon - oil by, 189, 190 - - Bouquet vaseline pomade, 296 - - Bouquets, 219, 240-245 - - Brazilian balsam, 166 - - Brilliantine, 305-308 - formulas for, 307, 308 - - Brown hair dye, 321 - wax pomade, 299, 300 - - Bulgaria, rose oil industry in, 137, 138 - - Burdock-root hair oil, 302 - - Butyric acid, preparation of, 205-207 - ether, formation of, 207, 208 - or ethyl butyrate, 205-210 - - Cajeput oil, 98, 99 - - Camomile oil, 99, 100 - - Camphor tooth-powder, 280 - - Canadian, English, or American castor, 185, 186 - - Canango oil, 154 - tincture, 234 - - Caraway oil, 100, 101 - - Carbon, bisulphide of, 48 - - Carbonic acid, apparatus for developing a current of, 50-52 - - Carob or St. John's bread, 209 - - Carthagena balsam, 166 - - Carvene, 100 - - Carvol, 35, 100 - - Cassia oil, 103, 104 - tincture, 235 - value of, 104 - - Cassie, oil of, 87 - - Castor, 31 - adulterations of, 186 - - Castoreum or castor, 185, 186 - - Castor oil, determination of, in volatile oil, 67, 68 - pomade, 293 - or castoreum, 185, 186 - tincture, 229 - - Cedar oil, 101 - tincture, 235 - - Ceylon cinnamon oil, 102, 103 - - Chalk, 336 - - Chamomile oil, 99, 100 - - Chapped hands, preparations for, 333, 334 - - Chassis, 61 - - Cherry essence, 217 - ether, 216 - laurel oil, 101, 102 - tooth-paste, 278 - non-fermenting, 278 - - Chloroform, alcohol, and benzine, quantitative determination of - adulterations with, 72, 73 - detection of, in volatile oil, 71 - - Cineol, 123 - - Cinnamaldehyde, 103 - quantitative determination of, 104-106 - - Cinnamic acid, determination of, in benzoin, 158, 159 - - Cinnamon leaves, oil of, and cinnamon-root oil, 104 - oil tincture, 235 - oils, 102-106 - - Cinnamon root oil and oil of cinnamon leaves, 104 - - Citrene, 35, 121 - - Citronella oil, 107, 108 - tincture, 235 - - Citronellol, 107 - - Citron oil, 106, 107 - - Civet, 31, 184, 185 - tincture, 228 - - Clove-oil tincture, 235 - - Cloves, oil of, 108-110 - - Cold cream, 331 - creams and lip-salves, 331-335 - - Cologne water, 249-254 - durability of volatile oils used for, 250, 251 - preparation of, 249, 250 - receipts for, 252-254 - - Coloring substances for dentifrices and mouth-waters, 272 - for pomades, 286 - - Compound odors, 240-245 - - Copper hair dye, 322 - nitroprusside of, test, 75-78 - salts for dyeing the hair, 315, 316 - - Cortex thymiamatis, 168 - - Cosmetics, 324-342 - and perfumeries in the Middle Ages, 26, 27 - and perfumes in Italy, 26, 27 - receipts for, in the writings of Arabian physicians, 26 - - Cream, boroglycerin, 333 - cold, 331 - glycerin, 332 - of roses, 333 - Récamier, 333 - vaseline cold, 331 - - Crême de concombre, 332 - de lys, 342 - de rose, 342 - - Cumarin, 190-193 - manufacture of, 192, 193 - tincture, 232 - - Curled mint oil, 132 - - Currant essence, 217 - - Cymene, 121 - - - Dandruff cures, 312 - lotion, 312 - - Densdorf pomade, 290 - - Dentifrice, singular, used by the Roman ladies, 26 - - Dentifrices and mouth-waters, coloring substances for, 272 - mouth-waters, etc., 272-283 - - Depilatories, 322, 323 - use of in ancient Rome, 25, 26 - - Dioscorides's directions for making animal fats suitable for the - reception of perfumes, 24 - for preparing rose ointment, 23, 24 - "Medica materia," 23 - - Distillation of expressed oil, 39 - of lemon oil, 118 - of rose oil, 137, 138 - of volatile oils, 39-48 - ancient mode of, 24 - - Distilling apparatus for lemon oil, 118-120 - - Double hair dyes, 321, 322 - - Dragendorff's test, 68, 69 - - Dry perfumes, 256-261 - - Dutch tonka bean, 191, 192 - - Dwarf pine oil, 149 - - - East Indian geranium oil, 112 - - Eau Athénienne, 308 - - Eau d'Afrique, 322 - de Botot (improved), 275 - de Cologne, 249-254 - durability of volatile oils for, 250, 251 - hair tonic, 309 - preparation of, 249, 250 - receipts for, 252-254 - solid perfume, 260 - de lavande, 255 - double, 255 - de Lisbonne, 255 - de quinine, 309, 310 - (imitation), 310 - de vie de lavande double ambrée, 255 - dentifrice Botot, 274 - Orientale, 274, 275 - lustral (hair restorative), 310 - - Écuelle process for obtaining lemon oil, 117, 118 - - Egg oil, virtues of, 314 - - Egypt, ancient, paints used in, 18, 19 - - Egyptians, use of perfume-substances by the, for embalming the dead, 18 - - Elæoptene, 33 - - Emperor pomade, 292 - - Enfleurage or absorption, process of, 60-65 - - England and America, use and preparation of nitrous ether in, 212-214 - use of perfumery in, 30 - - English aromatic vinegar, 325, 326 - Canadian, or American castor, 185, 186 - peppermint oil, 132, 133 - tonka bean, 192 - - Esprit de menthe, 276 - - Ess-bouquet sachet powder, 259 - solid perfume, 260 - - Essence à l'écuelle, or au zeste, 117 - apple, 216 - apricot, 216, 217 - cherry, 217 - currant, 217 - de jasmin, 114 - de lavande Montblanc, 115 - de mirbane, 199 - grape, 217 - lemon, 217 - melon, 217 - of Portugal, 125 - of the odor of Linden blossoms, 238 - orange, 217 - peach, 217 - pear, 217 - pine-apple, 217 - plum, 217 - raspberry, 218 - strawberry, 218 - - Essences and vinegars, fumigating, 264-266 - pastilles, powders, etc., for fumigating, 262-271 - - Essential or volatile oils, occurrence of, in plants, 31 - - Ester or ether number, 82 - - Ether, apple, 216 - apricot, 216 - cherry, 216 - or ester number, 82 - pear, 216 - pine-apple, 216 - strawberry, 216 - - Ethers, fruit, 200-218 - - Ethyl acetate, or acetic ethyl, 201-204 - benzoate, or benzoic ether, 204, 205 - butyrate, or butyric ether, 205-210 - formate, or formic ethyl ether, 210, 211 - nitrite, or nitrous ether, 211-214 - - Eucalyptene, 111 - - Eucalyptol, 111 - - Eucalyptus oil, 110, 111 - tincture, 235 - - Eugenol, 103, 109 - - Expression of volatile oils, 36-39 - - Extract, concentrated flower, 245 - patchouli, 233 - spinach, 239 - - Extraction of volatile oils, 48-58 - or maceration of flowers, 286, 287 - - Extracts, alcoholic, from flower pomades, apparatus for, 223-225 - and tinctures, 225-237 - - Extrait acacia, 237 - bouquet Eugenie, 241 - Prince Albert, 243 - Victoria, 242, 248 - cassie, 237 - chypre, 243, 244, 247 - de violette de Parme, 239, 240 - edelweiss, 240 - ess-bouquet, 240, 241, 247 - excelsior, 241 - fleurs de Mai, 238 - Frangipani, 241, 249 - héliotrope, 237 - ixora, 239, 248, 249 - jacinthe, 237, 238 - jasmin, 238 - jockey club, 241, 242 - jonquille, 238 - kiss-me-quick, 243 - lily of the valley, 238 - magnolia, 238 - maréchal, 244 - May flowers, 238 - millefleurs, 242 - mogadore, 243 - mousseline, 244 - muguet, 238, 248 - musk, 243 - new-mown hay, 243, 247 - - Extract opopanax, 242 - orange, 239 - patchouli, 242 - réséda, 240, 246 - rose, 246 - v. d. centifolie, 239 - spring-flower, 241, 248 - tubereuse, 240 - violette, 239, 246 - white rose, 239 - ylang-ylang, 240, 246, 247 - - Extraits aux fleurs, 219, 237-240 - d'odeurs, 219 - triple concentrés, 244, 245 - - - Face, painting the, practised by the Hebrew women, 19 - - Family pomade, 290, 291 - vaseline pomade, 296 - - Farine d'amandes amères, 329 - de noisette, 328 - - Fat mixtures for hair pomades, 288, 289 - paints, 341, 342 - - Fats, animal, preparation of, for the reception of perfumes, 24 - for pomades and hair oils, 284 - protection of, against rancidity, 285 - purification of, 285, 286 - - Federer's, C. F., test for peppermint oil, 135 - - Fennel oil, 111, 112 - - Filter, illustrated and described, 38, 39 - - Filtration of expressed oils, 37-39 - - Flake-white, 336 - - Florentine flasks, 46, 47 - - Florida water, 308, 309 - - Flower brilliantine, 306, 307 - extract, concentrated, 245 - fumigating essence, héliotrope, 264 - hair oil, 301 - pomades, 286, 287 - extraction of, 221-225 - - Flowers for the production of volatile oils, localities best suited - for the cultivation of, 32, 33 - maceration or extraction of, 286, 287 - - Formic ethyl ether, or ethyl formate, 210, 211 - - France, cultivation of the bitter orange in, 126 - extravagant use of rouge in, 28, 29 - golden age for toilet articles in, 27-29 - introduction of the arts of the toilet into, 27 - old process of maceration in, 59 - - Frangipani sachet powder, 258 - - Frankincense, in ancient times, 19-21 - or olibanum, 176, 177 - - French and African geranium oils, 112, 113 - oil of turpentine, 148 - patchouli oil, 131 - perfumers, ancient, privileges of, 29, 30 - pomades (flower pomades), - fine, 286, 287 - - Fruit ethers, 200-218 - - Fuchsine, detection of alcohol by, 69 - - Fumigating agents, dry, objections to, 263, 264 - balsam, 265, 266 - essences and vinegars, 264-266 - pastilles, powders, etc., 262-271 - lacquer, 270, 271 - mode of, 262, 263 - object of, 262 - paper, 268 - pastilles, 268-270 - ordinary black, 269 - red, 269 - powder, ordinary, 266, 267 - violet, 267 - powders, 266-268 - prejudice against, 262 - vinegar, 266 - water, 266 - - Funnel, separatory, 47 - - - Geraniol, 112 - - Geranium oil, East Indian, 112 - - Geranium oil, palmarosa oil, Turkish geranium oil, 112 - tincture, 235 - oils, French and African, 112, 113 - - German curled-mint oil, 132 - - German oil of turpentine, 148 - peppermint oil, 132, 133 - - Germany, manufacture of rose oil in, from indigenous roses, 136 - - Glycerin cream, 332 - for dentifrices, 273, 274 - gelée, 332 - hair tonic, 310 - jelly, 332, 333 - perfumed with fruit odor, 328 - with rose odor, 328 - - Grape essence, 217 - - Greeks, practice of anointing the body by the, 21 - - Green camomile oil, 99 - - Guaiacum reaction, Hager's, 78-80 - - Gummi myrrha, 172-176 - resina myrrha, 172-176 - - Gum-resins, 155, 156 - - Guy de Chanlios, receipts for cosmetics in the works of, 26 - - - Hager's alcohol and sulphuric acid test, 78 - - Hager's guaiacum reaction, 78-80 - tannin test, 69-71 - - Hair, copper salts for dyeing the, 315, 316 - dye, bismuth, 320 - black, 321 - brown, 321 - copper, 322 - potassium permanganate, 320 - requirements of a good, 314 - tannin, 321, 322 - Turkish, 316 - walnut, 320 - dyes, 314-322 - double, 321, 322 - silver, 321 - single, 319, 320 - use of, in ancient Rome, 25 - green walnut shells for dyeing the, 318 - henna for dyeing the, 317, 318 - iron salts for dyeing the, 316 - lead salts for dyeing the, 315 - nitrate of silver for dyeing the, 315 - oil, alpine herb, 301 - burdock root, 302 - - Hair oil, cheap, 303, 304 - fine, 302, 303 - flower, 301 - jasmine, 303 - macassar, 302 - mignonette, 302 - neroli, 302 - Peru, 302 - Peruvian bark, 301, 302 - philocome, 303 - Portugal, 303 - rose, 304 - sultana, 304 - tonka, 304 - vanilla, 303 - vaseline, 303 - Victoria, 304 - violet, 304 - ylang-ylang, 303 - oils, 300-304 - and pomades, fats for, 284 - peroxide of hydrogen for bleaching the, 318 - pomade, fine, 291 - for promoting the growth of the, 291 - pomades, 285-300 - according to the German method, 288-295 - coloring substances for, 286 - fine French, 286, 287 - foundations for, 288, 289 - hair oils, and hair tonics, hair dyes and depilatories, 284-323 - potassium permanganate for dyeing the, 316 - pyrogallic acid for dyeing the, 316 - stain, pyrogallic, 320 - tonics, 308-314 - - Hands, chapped, preparations for, 333, 334 - wash for the, 334 - - Hebrews, ancient, perfume-substances known to the, 19 - - Heliotrope pomade, 291, 292 - sachet powder, 257 - - Heliotropin or piperonal, 193-195 - tincture, 232 - - Henna-flower, use of the, for perfuming, 19 - - Henna for dyeing the hair, 317, 318 - - Herb pomade, 292 - - Herodotus on the mode of gaining olibanum, 19, 20 - - Heyl's distilling apparatus, 57, 58 - extracting apparatus, 54-57 - - Historical notice of perfumery, 17-30 - - Hitchin and Mitchan lavender oil, 115 - - Honey almond paste, 329 - water, 310 - - Hoppe's nitroprusside of copper test, 75-78 - - Horse fat, 284, 285 - - Hübl's iodine method, 80, 81 - - Hufeland's, Dr., tooth-powder, 280 - tooth-soap, 282, 283 - - Huile antique à la rose, 301 - au jasmin, 301 - - Huiles antiques, 301 - - Hydrogen, peroxide of, for bleaching the hair, 318 - - - Ice pomade, 290 - - Indian balsam, white, 172 - - Infusion or maceration, process of, 58-60 - - Iodine method, Hübl's, 80, 81 - test with, 74, 75 - - Iron salts for dyeing the hair, 316 - - Italy, perfumes and cosmetics in, 26, 27 - - - Japanese peppermint oil, 132, 133 - - Jasmin, essence de, 114 - - Jasmine hair oil, 303 - oil or oil of jessamine, 113, 114 - pomade, 292 - - Jessamine, oil of, or jasmine oil, 113, 114 - - Jockey club sachet, 257 - - Juniper-berry tincture, 233 - - Juniper odor, 265 - oil, 114 - - - Kabardin musk, 179, 180 - - Kahol, 317 - - Karsi, 319 - - Kienoel, 149 - - Kohol, 319 - - Kopher, 19 - - Kremel's saponification test, 81, 82 - - Krinochrom, 322 - - Krummholz oil, 149 - - Kypros, 19 - - - Lacquer, fumigating, 270, 271 - - Lait, d'amandes amères, 327 - - Lait de lys, 328 - de rose, 326, 327 - virginal, 326 - - Lanolin pomade, 292, 293 - - Latschenoel, 149 - - Lavande Montblanc, essence de, 115 - - Lavender odor solid perfume, 260 - oil, 115, 116 - adulterations of, 116 - tincture, 235 - - Lead salts for dyeing the hair, 315 - white, 336 - - Leather, perfumed, 30 - - Lebonah, 19-21 - - Lederin, 286 - - Lemon essence, 217 - grass-oil tincture, 235 - oil, 116-121 - conversion of oil of turpentine into, 189, 190 - tincture, 235 - - Licari oil, linaloë oil, 122 - tincture, 235 - - Lilac oil, 121 - - Lily milk, 328 - of the valley sachet powder, 258 - vaseline pomade, 296 - - Limes, oil of, 121, 122 - - Linaloë oil, licari oil, 122 - - Lip-salve, 334, 335 - - Lip-salves and cold creams, 331-335 - - Liquid ambar, 172 - paints, 340-342 - rouge, 340, 341 - storax, 168-171 - - Locock's lotion for the hair, 311 - - Lotion, dandruff, 312 - Locock's, for the hair, 311 - shampoo, 311 - - Lubah, 19-21 - - Lunar caustic for dyeing the hair, 315 - - - Macassar hair oil, 302 - pomade, 292 - - Mace oil, 124 - - Maceration or extraction of flowers, 286, 287 - or infusion, process of, 58-60 - - Magnesia, 336 - - Mandarin oil, 125, 126 - - Marinello's work on "Cosmetics for Ladies," 27 - - Marjoram oils, 122, 123 - - Maumené's test, 82, 83 - - Meal, almond, 329 - nut, 328 - - Meals and pastes, perfumed, 328-331 - - Melanogène, 322 - - Melon essence, 217 - - Menthol, 133 - pungent, 260 - - Messina, yield of lemon oil in, 120 - - Methyl salicylate, 151 - artificial production of, 152, 153 - - Mierzinski's formulæ for bay rum, 313, 314 - - Mignonette hair oil, 302 - oil, 123 - pomade, 293 - vaseline pomade, 296 - - Milk, almond, 327 - lily, 328 - rose, 326, 327 - virginal, 326 - - Millefleurs fumigating pastilles, 270 - - Mint, curled, oil of, 132 - - Mirbane, oil of, 199 - - Mitchan and Hitchin lavender oil, 115 - - Monfalcone's, D., distilling apparatus for lemon oil, 118-120 - - Moschus ex vesicis, 180 - - Moses, the holy oil prescribed by, 21 - - Mouche or beauty patch, 28 - - Mouth- and tooth-waters, 274-277 - waters and dentifrices, coloring substances for, 272 - dentifrices, etc., 272-283 - - Musk, 31, 178-184 - adulterations of, 183, 184 - artificial, 182, 183 - fumigating pastilles, 269, 270 - - Musk-rat, American, musk of the, 181, 182 - root or sumbul-root tincture, 231 - sachet powder, 259 - sac, how to open a, 180 - sacs, illustrated and described, 178, 179 - seed or abelmosk tincture, 230, 231 - substitutes for, 181, 182 - tincture, 228 - - Myristicin, 124 - - Myron, 21 - - Myrrh, 172-176 - adulterations of, 175, 176 - oil, 123, 124 - tincture, 235 - tincture, 230 - tooth-tincture, 276 - - Myrrha electa, 173 - in sortis, 173 - vulgaris, 173 - - Myrrhin, 174 - - Myrrhol, 174 - - Myrtol, 123, 124 - - - Nail-powder, 334 - - Neroli hair oil, 302 - - Neroli oil, adulterations of, 127, 128 - or orange-flower oil, 126-129 - tincture, 235 - petale, 127 - pomade, 293 - vaseline pomade, 296 - - New-mown hay fumigating powder, 267, 268 - sachet powder, 259 - - Nitrate of bismuth, 335, 336 - of silver for dyeing the hair, 315 - - Nitrobenzol, 198-200 - adulterations of, 199 - - Nitroprusside of copper test, 75-78 - - Nitrous ether, or ethyl nitrite, 211-214 - - Nut meal, 328 - - Nutmeg oils, 124, 125 - - - Odontine, 275 - or tooth-paste, 277, 278 - paste, 278 - - Odor and taste, testing the, of volatile oils, 66, 67 - - Odors, compound, 240-245 - - Oil, castor, determination of, in volatile oil, 67, 68 - fat, adulteration with, of volatile oil, 67, 68 - the holy, prescribed by Moses, 21 - volatile, apparatus for determining the percentage of, in a - vegetable substance, 40, 41 - for the distillation of, 41-46 - Planchon's procedure for the recognition of a, 83-86 - separation of the, and water, 46, 47 - testing the odor of, 66 - the taste of, 67 - - Oils, fat, treatment of, with benzoin, 300, 301 - oxygenated, behavior of, towards nitroprusside of copper, 76-78 - perfuming of, 61, 62 - volatile, 33-65 - ancient mode of distilling, 24 - apparatus for the extraction of, 48-57 - characteristics of, 33, 34 - concentrated, 35 - detection of adulterations of, with an oil of lower quality, 74-83 - distillation of, 39-48 - division of, with reference to the guaiacum reaction, 79, 80 - expression of, 36-39 - extraction of, 48-58 - extra strong, 35 - for Cologne water, durability of, 250, 251 - localities best suited for the cultivation of flowers for the - production of, 32, 33 - modes of obtaining, 36-65 - or essential, occurrence of, in plants, 31 - patented, 35 - principal divisions of, 34 - solubility of, 33 - storage of, 65 - testing of, 66-86 - the, used in perfumery, 87-154 - - Ointment makers, ancient, condition of, 24, 25 - rose, according to Dioscorides, 23, 24 - - Ointments, directions for preparing, in ancient works, 23, 24 - foreign, edict against, in Rome, 22 - for the different parts of the body used by the Athenians, 22 - - Oleum abietes, 149 - canadensis, 149, 150 - amygdalæ amaræ, 87-93 - anisi, 93, 94 - anthemidis, 99, 100 - anthos, 144, 145 - cajeputi, 98, 99 - carui, 100, 101 - caryophylli, 108-110 - cassiæ, 103, 104 - cedri, 101 - cinnamoni ceylonici, 102, 103 - citri, 106, 107 - eucalypti, 110, 111 - australe, 110 - florum aurantii, 126-129 - fœniculi, 111, 112 - gaultheriæ, 151-153 - geranii, 112, 113 - iridis, 129, 130 - iva ranchusa, 150, 151 - juniperi, 114 - laurocerasi, 101, 102 - lavandulæ, 115, 116 - ligni rhodii, 145 - sandali, 145 - sassafras, 145-147 - limettæ, 121, 122 - limonis, 116-121 - macidis, 124 - menthæ crispæ, 132 - piperitæ, 132-135 - pulegii, 135, 136 - myrthæ, 123, 134 - naphæ, 126-129 - neroli, 126-129 - nucistæ æthereum, 124 - petit grain, 129 - pimenta, 136 - pini, 149 - pumilionis, 149 - résédæ, 123 - rosemarini, 144, 145 - templinum, 149 - unonæ, 153, 154 - - Olibanum in ancient times, 19-21 - or frankincense, 176, 177 - tincture, 230 - - Opiat liquide pour les dents, 280, 281 - - Opopanax, 176 - oil, 125 - tincture, 235 - tincture, 230 - - Orange, bitter, localities for the cultivation of the, 126 - essence, 217 - flower oil, or neroli oil, 126-129 - water, 128 - fumigating powder, 267 - peel oil, 125 - sachet powder, 259 - - Oriental flower fumigating essence, 265 - pomade, 293 - - Orris-root oil, 129, 130 - liquid, 257 - tincture, 235 - tincture, 231 - - Orris stearoptene, 129 - - - Paint, fine red, 337 - ordinary red, 336, 337 - red stick, 339 - white, 337 - liquid, 341 - stick, 340 - - Paints, 335-342 - fat, 341, 342 - liquid, 340-342 - preparation of, 337-339 - pulverulent, 335, 336 - solid, 336-340 - use of, by the Roman ladies, 25 - - Palermo, yield of lemon oil in, 120 - - Palmarosa oil, geranium oil, Turkish geranium oil, 112 - - Paper, fumigating, 268 - - Paraffine, solid perfumes with, 259, 260 - - Paraguay, manufacture of petit-grain oil in, 129 - - Paris, annual sale of perfumery in, 29, 30 - - Paste, honey almond, 329 - - Pastes and meals, perfumed, 328-331 - and powders for the teeth, 277-283 - - Pastilles, fumigating, 268-270 - powders, essences, etc., for fumigating, 262-271 - - Patchouli-camphor, 131 - - Patchouli extract, 233 - leaves, 130, 131 - oil, 130-132 - tincture, 235 - sachet powder, 258 - - Pate d'amandes au miel, 329 - - Peach essence, 217 - kernels, use of, in the fabrication of bitter-almond oil, 88 - - Pear essence, 217 - ether, 216 - - Penang patchouli oil, 131 - - Peppermint oil, adulterants of, 134, 135 - oils, 132-136 - American, English, and German, mode of distinguishing, 133, 134 - - Pepper, perfume-substance from, 194 - - Perfumed meals and pastes, 328-331 - - Perfume-materials, artificial, 189-218 - for the manufacture of perfumery, 31-65 - substances, consumption of, by the ancient Romans, 24 - consumption of, by the early nations of the Orient, 17 - from the animal kingdom, 178-188 - - Perfumeries and cosmetics in the Middle Ages, 26, 27 - - Perfumer, the actual flower garden of the, 32 - what the art of the, consists in, 219 - - Perfumers, French, ancient privileges of, 29, 30 - - Perfumery, annual sale of, in Paris, 29, 30 - historical notice of, 17-30 - perfume-substances for themanufacture of, 31-65 - the volatile oils used in, 87-154 - use of, in England, 30 - - Perfumes, alcoholic, 219-255 - and cosmetics in Italy, 26, 27 - dry, 256-261 - preparation of animal fats for the reception of, 24 - solid, with paraffine, 259, 260 - - Peroxide of hydrogen for bleaching the hair, 318 - - Peru balsam, 159-166 - adulterants of, 162 - oil, 161 - statistics of, 162 - tests for, 162-166 - tincture, 229 - white, 172 - hair oil, 302 - - Peruvian balsam, white, 160, 161 - bark hair oil, 301, 302 - - Petit-grain oil, 129 - tincture, 236 - - Petroleum-ether, 48 - as testing agent for Peru balsam, 163 - - Philocome hair oil, 303 - - Pimento oil, or oil of allspice, 136 - - Pineapple essence, 217 - ether, 216 - - Pine-leaf oil, 149 - tincture, 236 - - Pine odor for atomizing, 265 - oil, 149 - - Piperate, potassium, 194 - - Piperine, 194 - - Piperonal, how obtained, 194, 195 - or heliotropin, 193-195 - - Piver's apparatus for maceration, 59, 60 - for the absorption process, 63, 64 - - Planchon's procedure for the recognition of a volatile oil, 83-86 - - Plants, families of, richest in volatile oils, 32 - occurrence of volatile oils in, 31 - - Pliny's account of olibanum, 20, 21 - "Historia naturalis," 23 - - Plum essence, 217 - - Plutarch on the extravagant use of ointments in Rome, 22, 23 - - Paraffin ice pomade, 293 - - Poley oil, 135, 136 - - Pomade, apple, 289 - bear's grease, 289 - beef-marrow, 294 - benzoin, 290 - black wax, 299 - blonde wax, 299 - bouquet vaseline, 296 - brown wax, 299, 300 - castor oil, 293 - cheap, 293 - wax, 290 - Densdorf, 290 - emperor, 202 - extra fine vaseline, 298 - family, 290, 291 - vaseline, 296 - fine, 291, 294 - vaseline (yellow), 297 - for promoting the growth of the hair, 291 - héliotrope, 291, 292 - herb, 292 - ice, 290 - jasmine, 292 - lanolin, 292, 293 - lily of the valley vaseline, 296 - macassar, 292 - mignonette, 293 - vaseline, 296 - neroli, 293 - vaseline, 296 - oriental, 293 - paraffin ice, 293 - Portugal, 292 - vaseline, 296 - princess, 293, 294 - quinine, 289, 290 - (imitation), 290 - resin, 300 - Rogers's, for producing a beard, 294 - rose, 294 - wax, 299 - salicylic, 294 - stick, manufacture of, 298, 299 - strawberry, 291 - tonka, 294, 295 - vanilla, 295 - vaseline (red), 297 - (white), 297 - foundations for, 296 - Victoria, 294 - vaseline, 297, 298 - violet, 295 - Virginia vaseline, 297 - walnut, 295 - - Pomades, 285-300 - according to the German method, 288-295 - and hair oils, fats for, 284 - coloring substances for, 286 - designation of the qualities of, 219, 220 - foundations for, 288, 289 - resin, 298 - stick, 298-300 - foundations for, 298 - vaseline, 295-298 - wax, 298 - - Pommade à l'acacia, 287 - à la fleur d'orange, 287 - à la rose, 287 - à l'héliotrope, 287 - - Portugal hair oil, 303 - oil, 125 - tincture, 236 - pomade, 292 - vaseline pomade, 296 - - Potassium permanganate for dyeing the hair, 316 - hair dye, 320 - piperate, 194 - - Poudre d'Algérine, 281, 282 - de corail, 280 - de riz à la rose, 329, 330 - de riz à la violette, 330 - de riz bouquet, 331 - de riz héliotrope, 330 - de riz ixora, 331 - de riz muguet, 330, 331 - de riz orange, 330 - dentifrice, 279 - - Powder for coloring intensely red, 336 - new-mown hay fumigating, 267, 268 - orange fumigating, 267 - ordinary fumigating, 266, 267 - rose fumigating, 267 - - Powders, 335, 336 - and pastes for the teeth, 277-283 - fumigating, 266-268 - mixtures for, 336 - pastilles, and essences, etc., for fumigating, 262-271 - - Preston salt, 260 - - Princess pomade, 293, 294 - - Pyrogallic acid for dyeing the hair, 316 - hair stain, 320 - - - Quinine pomade, 289, 290 - (imitation), 290 - tooth-water, 276 - - - Raspberry essence, 218 - - Rastikopetra, 316 - - Récamier cream, 333 - - Red paint, fine, 337 - ordinary, 336, 337 - stick paint, 339 - thyme oil, 147 - - Reggio, mode of manufacturing bergamot oil in, 118 - - Réséda sachet powder, 258, 259 - - Resin pomade, 300 - pomades, 298 - - Resins and balsams, 155-177 - definition of, 155 - diffusion of, in the vegetable kingdom, 156 - elementary constituents of, 155 - hard, 155 - soft, 155, 156 - - Rhazes, receipts for cosmetics in the writings of, 26 - - Rhodium oil, or rosewood oil, 145 - - Rhusma, 322, 323 - - Righini's method for testing bergamot oil, 98 - - Rogers's pomade for producing a beard, 294 - - Romans, ancient, consumption of perfume-substances by the, 24 - - Rome, introduction of ointments in, 22 - Plutarch on the extravagant use of ointments in, 22, 23 - - Rosa alba, 137 - damascena, 137 - - Rose bandoline, 305 - flower fumigating essence, 264 - fumigating pastilles, 270 - powder, 267 - hair oil, 304 - milk, 326, 327 - oil, adulterants of, 142 - adulteration of, in Bulgaria 140 - determination of spermaceti in, 143, 144 - insulation and determination of the stearoptene in, 139, 140 - judging the genuineness of, 139 - liquid, 139 - or attar of roses, 136-144 - principal localities of production of, 136 - test for, 143 - used in Bulgaria, 141 - tincture, 236, 237 - ointment, according to Dioscorides, 23, 24 - pomade, 294 - wax pomade, 299 - - Rosemary oil, 144, 145 - - Roses, cream of, 333 - - Rosewood oil, or rhodium oil, 145 - - Rouge, 336, 337 - en feuilles, 340 - extravagant use of, in France, 28, 29 - liquid, 340, 341 - moulding of, into sticks, 339 - stick, 339 - - Russian or Siberian castor, 185, 186 - musk, 179, 180 - - - Sachet à la rose, 257 - à la violette, 257 - aux millefleurs, 258 - jockey club, 257 - powder, ess-bouquet, 259 - Frangipani, 258 - héliotrope, 257 - lily of the valley, 258 - musk, 259 - new-mown hay, 259 - orange, 259 - patchouli, 258 - réséda, 258, 259 - Victoria, 258 - ylang-ylang, 257 - powders, 256-259 - - Safrene, 146 - - Safrol, 146, 147 - - St. John's bread or carob, 209 - - Salicylic pomade, 294 - - Salts, smelling, 260, 261 - - Salve, Cyprian, 19 - - Sandal-wood oil, 145 - tincture, 236 - - Saudarac, 177 - - Sandaracin, 177 - - Saponaceous tooth-wash, 283 - - Saponification number, 81 - test, Kremel's, 81, 82 - - Sassafras oil, 145-147 - - Sartorius ylang-ylang oil, 154 - - Schimmel & Co.'s directions for bay rum, 313 - directions for the quantitative determination of - cinnamaldehyde, 104-106 - improved still, 44-46 - - Separator-funnel, 47 - - Shampoo liquid, 311, 312 - lotion, 311 - - Siberian or Russian castor, 185, 186 - musk, 179, 180 - - Silver, nitrate of, for dyeing the hair, 315 - - Single hair dyes, 319, 320 - - Siphon still, 41, 42 - - Skin cosmetics, 324-328 - - Smelling salts, 260, 261 - - Soap for dentifrices, 273 - - Solid paints, 336-340 - - Solubility of volatile oils, 33 - - Sozodont, 275 - - Spanish marjoram oil, 122, 123 - - Spermaceti, determination of, in rose oil, 143, 144 - - Spike oil, 115 - - Spinach extract, 239 - - Spirit of wine, or alcohol, detection of, in volatile oil, 68-71 - - Sponge-process for obtaining lemon oil, 116, 117 - - Stahl's tooth-tincture, 276 - - Star anise oil, 94, 95 - - Stearoptene, 33 - of rose oil, 138 - - Stick paint, white, 340 - pomade, manufacture of, 298, 299 - pomader, 298-300 - foundations for, 298 - rouge, 339 - - Still, for direct steam, 43, 44 - improved, 44-46 - - Still, ordinary, conversion of, into use with steam, 42, 43 - siphon, 41, 42 - - Stohman's test for oil of cloves, 109 - - Storax, 168-172 - American, 172 - in grains, 171 - liquid, 168-171 - adulterations of, 170, 171 - ordinary, 171, 172 - tincture, 230 - - Strawberry essence, 218 - ether, 216 - pomade, 291 - - Styracin, 170 - - Styrax calamitus, 171, 172 - vulgaris, 171, 172 - - Styrol, 169, 170 - - Sultana hair oil, 304 - - Sumbul root, or musk-root tincture, 231 - - - Tannin hair dye, 321, 322 - - Taste and odor, testing the, of volatile oils, 66, 67 - - Tea hair tonic, 310, 311 - - Teinture Chinoise (Kohol), 319 - Orientale (Karsi), 319 - - Templin oil, 149 - - Terpenes, 35, 36 - adulterations of volatile oil with, 73 - - Terpilene, 189, 190 - - Testing volatile oils, 66-86 - - Theophrastus's work "On Perfumes," 23 - - Thibet or Oriental musk, 178, 179 - - Thymene, 147 - - Thyme oil, 147, 148 - from the field thyme, 147, 148 - - Thymol, 147, 273 - tooth-paste, 278 - tooth-powder, 279 - tooth-water, 274 - - Tincture, ambergris, 229 - angelica-root, 231 - balm-oil, 234 - basil-oil, 234 - benzoin, 229 - bergamot-oil, 234 - bitter almond-oil, 234 - canango-oil, 234 - cassia-oil, 235 - castor, 229 - cedar-oil, 235 - cinnamon-oil, 235 - citronella-oil, 235 - civet, 228 - clove-oil, 235 - cumarin, 232 - eucalyptus-oil, 235 - geranium-oil, 235 - heliotropin, 232 - juniper-berry, 233 - lavender-oil, 235 - lemon-grass oil, 235 - lemon-oil, 235 - licari-oil, 235 - musk, 228 - root or sumbul-root, 231 - seed or abelmosk, 230, 231 - myrrh, 230 - oil, 235 - neroli-oil, 235 - olibanum, 230 - opopanax, 230 - oil, 235 - orris-root, 231 - oil, 235 - patchouli-oil, 235 - Peru-balsam, 229 - petit-grain-oil, 236 - pine-leaf-oil, 236 - Portugal-oil, 236 - rose-oil, 236, 237 - sandal-wood-oil, 236 - storax, 230 - tolu-balsam, 229, 230 - tonka-bean, 231, 232 - vanilla, 232 - vanillin, 232 - verbena-oil, 236 - vitivert, 233 - oil, 236 - wintergreen-oil, 236 - ylang-ylang-oil, 236 - - Tinctures and extracts, 225-237 - apparatus for the preparation of, 226, 227 - - Toilet articles, golden age for, in France, 27-29 - arts of the, in ancient times, 18 - introduction of the arts of the, into France, 27 - vinegar, 326 - - Tolu balsam, 166-168 - new variety of, 167, 168 - - Tolu balsam, tincture, 229, 230 - - Toluene, 166, 167 - - Tonka beans, 191, 192 - bean tincture, 231, 232 - hair oil, 304 - pomade, 294, 295 - - Tonkin musk, 178, 179 - characteristics of, 180, 181 - - Tooth-and mouth-waters, 274-277 - paste or odontine, 277, 278 - pastes and tooth-powders, 277-283 - powder, Dr. Hufeland's, 280 - powders and tooth-pastes, 277-283 - preparation of, 279 - soap, 283 - Dr. Hufeland's, 282, 283 - tincture, Dr. Stahl's, 276 - tinctures, use of, 276, 277 - - Trotula, works of, 26 - - Turkish geranium oil, palmarosa oil, geranium oil, 112 - hair dye, 316 - - Turpentine, oil of, 148-150 - conversion of, into lemon oil, 189, 190 - - - United States, adaptation of some districts of, for the cultivation - of plants, 33 - - - Valerianic ether, or amyl valerate, 214-216 - ethyl ether, 216 - - Vanilla, 195, 196 - hair oil, 303 - pomade, 295 - tincture, 232 - - Vanillin, 195-198 - adulteration of, 198 - preparation of, 196, 197 - tincture, 232 - - Vaseline cold cream, 331 - hair oil, 303 - pomade, extra fine, 298 - fine (yellow), 297 - (red), 297 - (white), 297 - pomades, 295-298 - foundations for, 296 - - Venetian oil of turpentine, 148 - - Verbena oil, 150 - tincture, 236 - - Vetiver oil, or vitivert oil, 150, 151 - - Victoria hair oil, 304 - pomade, 294 - sachet powder, 258 - vaseline pomade, 297, 298 - - Vinaigre de Bully, 324 - de toilette, 325 - de toilette à l'héliotrope, 325 - de toilette à la rose, 324 - de toilette à la violette, 324 - de toilette orange, 325 - - Vinegar, aromatic, 325, 326 - fumigating, 266 - toilet, 326 - - Vinegars and essences, fumigating, 264-266 - - Violet-flower fumigating essence, 265 - - Violet fumigating pastilles, 270 - powder, 267 - hair oil, 304 - mouth-water, 275 - oil of, 150 - pomade, 295 - tooth-powder, 279 - - Virginal milk, 326 - - Virginia vaseline pomade, 297 - - Vitivert-oil tincture, 236 - - Vitivert, or vetiver oil, 150, 151 - tincture, 233 - - Volatile oil, apparatus for determining the percentage of, in a - vegetable substance, 40, 41 - apparatus for the distillation of, 41-46 - Planchon's procedure for the recognition of a, 83-86 - separation of the, and 46, 47 - testing the odor of, 66 - the taste of, 67 - oils, 33-65 - ancient method of distilling, 24 - apparatus for the extraction of, 48-57 - characteristics of, 33, 34 - concentrated, 35 - detection of adulterations of, with an oil of lower quality, 74-83 - distillation of, 39-48 - division of, with reference to the guaiacum reaction, 79, 80 - expression of, 36-39 - extraction of, 48-58 - extra strong, 35 - for Cologne water, durability of, 250, 251 - localities best suited for the cultivation of flowers for the - production of, 32, 33 - modes of obtaining, 36-65 - patented, 35 - principal divisions of, 34 - solubility of, 33 - storage of, 65 - testing of, 66-86 - the, used in perfumery, 87-154 - or essential oils, occurrence of, in plants, 31 - - - Walnut hair dye, 320 - pomade, 295 - shells, green, for dyeing the hair, 318 - - Washes, 326-328 - - Wash for the hands, 334 - - Water, fumigating, 266 - separation of the, and oil, 46, 47 - - Wax pomade, cheap, 300 - pomades, 298 - - White lead, 336 - liquid paint, 341 - paint, 337 - rose solid perfume, 259 - smelling salts, 260, 261 - stick paint, 340 - thyme oil, 147 - tooth-powder, 280 - - Williams, F. R., utilization of Maumené's test by, 82, 83 - - Wintergreen oil, 151-153 - adulteration of, 153 - tincture, 236 - - Ylang-ylang hair oil, 303 - oil, 153, 154 - tincture, 236 - sachet powder, 257 - - Yunnan musk, 178, 179 - - - Zibethum, 184, 185 - - Zinc white, 336 - - -Transcriber's Notes - -Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected. - -Variable use of accents and ligatures has been standardised to ensure -compatibility between text and index. - -The reference in the index to oleum uonæ has been corrected to oleum -unonæ. - -The index lists Pomade - cheap - wax at page 390, which does not exist. -This has been changed to 290.> - -Footnotes 12 and 13, merely repeat footnote 11, so have been removed -and all references changed to footnote 11. - -Italics are shown thus _italic_ and subscripts thus {2}. - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Practical Treatise on the -Manufacture of Perfumery, by C. 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