initial commit of ebook 44501HEADmain

189 files changed, 21585 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6833f05
--- /dev/null
+++ b/.gitattributes
@@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
+* text=auto
+*.txt text
+*.md text
diff --git a/44501-0.txt b/44501-0.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7c5e5cb
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-0.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,3939 @@
+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44501 ***
+
+  TOY CRAFT
+
+
+
+
+  TOY CRAFT
+
+
+  LEON H. BAXTER
+  Director of Manual Training, Public Schools
+  ST. JOHNSBURY, VT.
+
+  Author of Boy Bird House Architecture, and Elementary Concrete Construction
+
+  [Illustration]
+
+  THE BRUCE PUBLISHING COMPANY
+  MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN
+
+
+  Copyright 1922
+  The Bruce Publishing Company
+  Printed in the United States of America
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY NOTES
+
+
+The purpose of such a book as Mr. Baxter's "Toy Craft" is to furnish
+definite instructions for the making of toys for boys and girls by the
+children themselves. Miniature furniture, wooden dolls, carts and
+animals--of how much greater value is one such plaything actually put
+together by a child than any number of toys made in a factory or
+imported from some foreign country? Truly a step forward has been taken
+in putting before the people a book which will unconsciously instill in
+the minds of the children the value of the hand-made in preference to
+the machine-made article.
+
+Not only is Mr. Baxter peculiarly fitted to publish such a volume as
+"Toy Craft" in the light of his knowledge of manual training, but also
+because of his understanding of the spirit behind the production of
+toys, which bring such joy to the hearts of boys and girls.
+
+To the satisfaction of actually making some wooden cart, or bird, or
+animal may be added the happiness of doing the work for some other
+child. It is this vision of service for others which Mr. Baxter has
+already caught and demonstrated, and we feel sure that this little
+volume will do much to promote the improved individual construction of
+toys by children, at the same time instilling into the hearts of the
+boys the joy of making something for somebody else, of experiencing the
+truth, "It is more blessed to give than to receive."
+
+  MABEL E. TURNER,
+  Field Representative for Junior Service,
+  New England Division, American Red Cross.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+One of the hard problems in manual training, for boys up to twelve years
+of age, is to find worth-while things to make, within the capacity of
+boys of this age. Having been engaged in this kind of work for over
+twenty years I can appreciate the problems of the manual training
+instructor in the grades.
+
+After carefully examining the cuts and directions for the various
+projects as given in "Toy Craft," and having seen the boys at work, as
+well as the completed articles, in Mr. Baxter's department, I can
+readily see how the great interest that is inspired in the boys is
+derived.
+
+I heartily commend this book to all manual training teachers as a great
+help in the solution of their problems with boys.
+
+  STANLEY J. STEWARD, M. E.,
+  Director, St. Johnsbury Vocational School.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+Each year American parents spend millions of dollars for toys for the
+children. In a short time a large part of these toys are broken, and lie
+in the corner or the back yard. This is because of the destructive
+habits children have developed. These same habits have been formed
+because, since birth, toys have cost these children nothing.
+
+Children, like grown-ups, value things and form habits in proportion to
+the cost to them. They break up what costs them nothing, and cherish and
+keep repaired what they, themselves, have made or purchased with
+self-denial or self-earned money.
+
+The breaking of toys is bad, but the effect upon the character of the
+child is infinitely worse. Destructive tendencies are developed, while
+constructive ability is allowed to lie dormant and inactive.
+
+The remedy for this is to develop the constructive rather than the
+destructive in children by buying them working outfits and books of
+instruction with which they can make and repair things for themselves.
+In other words, buy tools, equipment and supplies rather than finished
+toys. Carlisle said, "Man without tools is nothing; man with tools is
+all." Education is to children what civilization is to the race.
+
+What to buy for each particular child depends upon the age and
+tendencies of the child and is a matter parents must determine for
+themselves. The important test is, "Is it something that the child can
+use to make things for himself, for others and for the home?"
+
+When purchasing tools it is an excellent plan to leave some part of the
+outfit for the children to make or to buy from money they themselves
+have earned. In other words, co-operate with the children instead of
+doing it all for them.
+
+The writer speaks not only from the teacher's point of view, but from
+the parent's as well. The problems offered in this book are not only
+within the capabilities of the average child, but are all tested and
+proven as being worth-while and appealing strongly to the child's ideals
+and imagination.
+
+  LEON H. BAXTER.
+
+  St. Johnsbury, Vt.
+
+
+
+
+  TABLE OF CONTENTS
+
+
+                                              Page
+
+  History of Toy-Making                       11-3
+
+  Equipment                                   13-4
+
+  Laying Out Work                             14
+
+  Transferring a Design                       14-5
+
+  Adapting the Problem to the Boy's Ability   15
+
+  Finish and Color                            15-7
+
+  Staining                                    17-8
+
+  Method of Jointing Wood                     18-20
+
+  Supports for Holding Coping Saw Work        20
+
+  Support to be Held in Vise                  20-2
+
+  Supports for Table Use                      22
+
+  The Bench Hook                              22-4
+
+  Simple Tool Sharpening                      24-6
+
+  Coping Saw Work                             26-7
+
+  Dowel Sticks                                27
+
+  Picture Puzzle Construction                 27-8
+
+  Pelican                                     29
+
+  Duck                                        30
+
+  Goose                                       31
+
+  Rhinoceros                                  32
+
+  Elephant                                    33
+
+  Rabbit                                      34
+
+  Lamb                                        35
+
+  Goat                                        36
+
+  Rooster                                     37
+
+  Camel                                       38
+
+  Method of Enlarging Figures                 39-40
+
+  Dippy Duck                                  40-1
+
+  Monitor                                     42-3
+
+  Merrimac                                    44-5
+
+  Child's Snow Shovel                         46-7
+
+  The Periscope                               47-8
+
+  Doll's Ironing Board (Size A)               49-51
+
+  Doll's Ironing Board (Size B)               51-3
+
+  Doll's Ironing Board (Size C)               53-5
+
+  Doll's Clothes Rack                         55-7
+
+  Child's Wash Bench                          57-9
+
+  Child's Step Ladder                         59-63
+
+  Doll's Table with Drawer                    62-4
+
+  Colonial Doll's Table                       64-6
+
+  Colonial Doll's Chair                       66-7
+
+  Ring-The-Hook Game                          68-9
+
+  Five Post Ring Toss                         68-72
+
+  Bean Bag Game                               72-4
+
+  Dart Board Game                             74-6
+
+  Darts                                       75-7
+
+  Wind Mill                                   77-80
+
+  Wind Mill (Type B)                          80-2
+
+  Sand or Water Mill                          82-4
+
+  Doll's Cradle                               84-7
+
+  Colonial Doll Cradle                        87-9
+
+  Doll's Bed                                  89-91
+
+  Two Types of Stilts                         91-3
+
+  Child's Cart                                93-5
+
+  Child's Dump Wagon                          95-9
+
+  Child's Wheelbarrow (Type A)                99-103
+
+  Child's Wheelbarrow (Type B)                102-5
+
+  Clown Running Wheel                         105-9
+
+  Cock Horse                                  109-10
+
+  Rocking Rooster                             111-13
+
+  Kiddie Kar                                  113-15
+
+  Kiddie Koaster                              116-19
+
+  Ski Skooter                                 119-22
+
+  Method of Bending Runners                   121-2
+
+  Ski Skippers                                122-5
+
+  Doll Sleigh                                 125-8
+
+  Child's Table                               128-30
+
+  Child's Chair                               130-1
+
+[Illustration: Girls Making Toys for a Red Cross Christmas Sale.]
+
+[Illustration: A Christmas Sale of Toys for the Red Cross.]
+
+[Illustration: Boy Toy Makers and Some of their Products.]
+
+[Illustration: Making Toys in the School Shop.]
+
+
+
+
+TOY CRAFT
+
+
+
+
+HISTORY OF TOY-MAKING.
+
+
+To tell the history of toy-making from its earliest days it would be
+necessary to follow the story back through many centuries, for the
+archaeologists, in delving among the tombs of ancient Greece and Egypt,
+have made the surprising discovery that children played with dolls, and
+jointed dolls at that, more than five thousand years ago.
+
+Moreover, by the side of these dolls scientists have unearthed other
+playthings that children still crave: doll's furniture, animal toys and
+toys with wheels, illustrating the methods of transportation of those
+early days.
+
+These same scientists claim that the custom of playing with dolls and
+other toys is as old as the world itself and that playthings are, and
+always have been, just as necessary a constituent of human health and
+development as either food or medicine.
+
+They claim that the reason that boys and girls crave toys is that nature
+requires them, and to deprive children of such playthings would be to
+retard their mental growth and development.
+
+The Latin word =trochus= means a hoop for children. The hoops of Roman
+children were made of bronze and iron and were rolled by a sort of a
+crooked stick and sometimes had small bells attached.
+
+=Pupa=, the Latin word meaning "a little girl," applies to dolls which
+were made from rags, wood, wax, ivory and terra cotta. When the Greek
+girls of that time married they dedicated their dolls to Artemis; the
+Roman girls, to Venus; but, if they died before marriage, their dolls
+were buried with them.
+
+The Latin word =crepundia= meant children's playthings, such as rattles,
+dolls, toy hatchets and swords.
+
+The toys made during the middle ages for the children of noble families
+and rich merchants, show special care and fine workmanship. Many of them
+were of a religious nature in the form of the Cross of the Crusaders, or
+military in origin, like miniature knights on horseback. The toys of
+this period were generally carved by goldsmiths.
+
+The American Indians and the Esquimaux made dolls from bits of skin and
+fur of wild animals and gaily decorated them with shells, beads and
+feathers. They also carved small models of animals and human beings from
+wood and bone.
+
+The oldest European toy manufacturing center is Nuremberg, Germany. This
+town is especially noted for its metal playthings, like the lead
+soldiers, which were the delight of our childhood. Sonneburg, in
+Germany, is the greatest European center for the manufacture of wooden
+toys.
+
+Winchendon, Mass., is the greatest toy manufacturing center in the
+United States, nearly every enterprise in that town being toy-making.
+
+In spite of the early origin of toys the progress of manufacturing
+playthings has been so slow that, even as late as one hundred years ago,
+the types of toys were few in number, simple in construction and
+extremely expensive, especially in the United States.
+
+There was no systematic manufacture of such articles, and, as the cost
+of importation was very high, comparatively few persons could afford
+such means of amusement for their children.
+
+The children of those days accepted more primitive things, dolls that
+were often merely pieces of cloth folded and pinned in such a manner as
+to suggest the outline that was not there.
+
+A few other toys such as hoops, jumping-jacks, tenpins, marbles,
+battledore-and-shuttlecock and alphabet blocks, represented the limit of
+the toy-makers' stock.
+
+In America the toy-making industry is of quite recent origin. Before
+1875 more than ninety per cent of the toys sold in this country were of
+foreign manufacture, and those that were made here were never exported
+to other countries. Today, however, about five per cent of the toys sold
+here are made abroad and the rest are manufactured here in our own
+country. Up to 1875 there was not a doll factory in the United States.
+
+Today, while we import some dainty toys from France, Germany and
+Switzerland, nearly all the newest, unique and mechanical productions
+are made in America.
+
+Simple toys are mostly made of wood and metal, and the same principles
+employed by mechanical engineers, in duplicating parts of machinery, are
+used in making duplicate parts of toys.
+
+When a design has been decided on, it is reduced to its most simple
+element. Jigs are then made so that each piece will be an exact
+duplicate of every similar piece, and the construction is pushed through
+on the American factory system.
+
+Some toys are very elaborate, costing several hundred dollars. These
+are readily purchased, however, by people of means.
+
+In the author's opinion the best kind of toys are those which suggest
+rather than fulfill, and those with which the child can really do
+something. Mechanical toys, which supply their own energy, should not be
+allowed to take the place of those into which the child must infuse part
+of his own life and energy. It follows naturally, then, that the toys
+made by the children themselves are the ideal ones.
+
+
+
+
+EQUIPMENT.
+
+
+The following drawings vary in difficulty from those within the ability
+of a nine or ten-year-old child to those which should not be attempted
+by a child under junior high school age. Of course there are younger
+boys, who possess especial ability in this line of work and who can
+successfully carry through projects which the ordinary child of a like
+age would fail to satisfactorily complete. Such boys are, however, the
+exception.
+
+  For the younger workman the following outfit is ample:
+
+  One coping saw frame.
+
+  One dozen saw blades.
+
+  A sloyd knife or a pocket knife with a small stone to keep it sharp.
+
+  Some No. 1 sandpaper, a small can of glue and some one inch brads.
+
+  The whole outfit will cost about a dollar.
+
+A small plane is very convenient, but it is not absolutely necessary for
+work for younger children.
+
+A board on which the sawing is done, to prevent marring the table, can
+be made from a piece of boxwood 7/8" × 6" × 12". A hole should be bored
+about three inches from one end and half way between the sides, and a
+V-shaped notch should be cut from the end of the board to the hole. The
+photograph on Page 20 shows the sawing board in use and illustrates two
+methods of constructing and holding the board. See also Plate 2 for
+method of making these boards. If a vise is available matters are very
+much simplified.
+
+With the above described outfit, toy animals, toy furniture,
+jumping-jacks and other simple toys of a like nature can be made.
+
+The material should be thin wood from the thickness of cigar box wood
+(which by the way is especially good to use for some of the toys), up to
+one-half inch in thickness.
+
+Composition board, such as Beaver Board and similar wall board, is very
+good for the smaller toys but lacks strength and cannot be handled
+roughly.
+
+Three-ply veneered wood may be obtained from firms which specialize in
+veneer. It is strong and serviceable but a little more expensive than
+the plain wood.
+
+Bass and pine are excellent woods to use in toy-making, as they work
+very easily and are light in weight.
+
+For the older boy, who will no doubt be handy about the house, the
+following tools are suggested:
+
+  1 Rip saw.
+  1 Turning saw.
+  1 Claw hammer.
+  1 Screw driver.
+  1 Half round file, No. 10.
+  1 Ruler.
+  1 Jack, or smooth, plane.
+  1 Brace, set of bits and countersink.
+  A 1/2" and 1" chisels.
+  1 Try square.
+  1 Pair of 6" dividers.
+  1 Knife.
+
+This outfit should cost about $25. Other tools may be added by the boy
+himself as the necessity arises.
+
+If a bench is not available at first, a temporary one may be made from a
+stout dry goods box and a more satisfactory one purchased later with
+money earned by the boy by making things for others.
+
+Cheap tools are an expensive investment as they are never satisfactory.
+A few tools of good quality should be purchased to start with, and
+others should be added as necessity demands and funds permit.
+
+
+
+
+LAYING OUT WORK.
+
+
+For the young beginner it will be necessary to have patterns of animals
+and other toys to trace around, before cutting out the forms.
+
+In the author's opinion originality should be always encouraged in a boy
+when the original designs can be successfully worked out to completion
+by the boy.
+
+With beginners, however, considerable tact must be used in leading them
+on to work out original ideas through the medium of the sketching
+pencil. Only very few have the ability to carry out an idea which they
+may have, and if allowed to attempt it without a trial on paper the
+resulting product is most always a failure. As stated before, the first
+work should be tracings from well-designed patterns. These, then, can be
+successfully worked out, and the result is satisfying to the mind of the
+child and not a discouraging failure.
+
+
+
+
+TRANSFERRING A DESIGN TO WOOD.
+
+
+A design may be traced by placing a piece of transparent paper over the
+desired drawing and outlining it with a pencil. The resulting tracing is
+cut out, placed on a stiff piece of cardboard or fiber board, and
+redrawn on this. The board is then cut carefully with scissors or a
+sharp knife. This pattern may be used for a long time and other patterns
+may be made from it in a similar manner.
+
+Another simple method is to place a piece of carbon paper beneath the
+desired drawing, carbon side down, and to go over the lines of the
+drawing with a medium-hard pencil. This transfer may be made directly
+on the wood or on a piece of cardboard which is to be cut out and used
+as a pattern. For cut-up picture puzzles the picture is pasted directly
+on the wood and, after drying, is cut at random. See Plate 5.
+
+
+
+
+ADAPTING THE PROBLEM TO THE BOY'S ABILITY.
+
+
+As the child's efficiency increases and he leaves the simpler toy forms
+for others of increasing difficulty, he should be encouraged to read the
+working drawings of the article which he intends to make. Show him how
+to discover from the drawing the lengths, widths, thicknesses of the
+pieces to be made and, after carefully checking him up, let him work out
+his own salvation for a while. In other words, do not do it all for him.
+Let the result be at least 90 per cent the boy's own work. Be ready,
+however, to assist at the right moment and never turn a deaf ear to the
+persistent question, "Why"?
+
+By following this logical method of procedure in teaching, the writer
+has found that the young craftsman is ready a great deal earlier to work
+out original ideas and designs to a practical and successful conclusion.
+
+
+
+
+FINISH AND COLOR.
+
+
+After all cutting with edged tools has been completed, all pieces should
+be carefully sanded to insure the removal of all scars, pencil lines and
+other imperfections.
+
+Sandpaper should be used on a small block. Care should be taken that no
+paper hangs over the block, thus rounding the edges of the work being
+finished.
+
+In sanding over a first coat of shellac or paint a block is not used,
+but the sandpaper is folded two or three times and used under the finger
+tips. Care must be taken especially not to wear through the finish on
+the edges.
+
+Paint is difficult and unsatisfactory for younger children to use.
+Colors handled by beginners will run together and will be "dauby" in
+appearance and a detriment rather than a finish to a toy. Added to this
+is the likelihood of a generous application on the painter's hands and
+clothing.
+
+The writer has had excellent results in using the ordinary colored wax
+crayons on toys. Crayon is easy to apply, has a pleasing color tone, is
+clean and very satisfactory for the beginner. After all of a toy has
+been colored a fairly heavy line may be drawn free-hand, at the point of
+contact of the colors, with an ordinary drafting pen and India ink.
+Pains should be taken to see that the ink is dry in one place before
+applying in another. If the crayon has been put on with pressure and
+uniformly deposited over the surface the ink will "take" without
+spreading and the result is a clean-cut finished appearance.
+
+For more advanced workers the toys should be painted with either
+commercial or enamel paints, which are available on the market in all
+colors, or with colors mixed by the boy himself. If the boy mixes his
+own colors much of the mystery of the ready-mixed paints is done away
+with.
+
+By adding to white enamel a small amount of a selected color, ground in
+oil, various tones of the color may be obtained.
+
+In painting any object a first or priming coat is applied. Flat white is
+an excellent all-round primer. After the priming coat has dried
+thoroughly on a toy, it should be sanded lightly to remove any rough
+places with No. 0 sandpaper and dusted. Then the final coat should be
+applied.
+
+Gray is also very good for the first coat except where a white or very
+light colored paints are to be used for the finished coat.
+
+When painting small toys or parts of larger toys it is economy to have a
+string or wire stretched between two hooks six or seven feet from the
+floor, on which to hang the painted article.
+
+[Illustration: Careful painting is as essential to the success of a toy
+as good construction.]
+
+Drive an inch brad into some part of the toy that will not be seen, such
+as the lower edge of the animal toys, and attach a short length of
+string or wire to this and hang up as before described. This nail will
+be handy to hold the toy by while painting and when hung up is out of
+the way, is not touching anything to cause marks on the paint, and is
+high enough up to be where the temperature of the room will assist in
+the drying process. Remove this nail after the toy is dry. If possible
+toys should dry in a special room where it is quiet, with no dust
+stirring or drafts blowing, and where the temperature is fairly uniform,
+not falling below 60 degrees.
+
+Paint should be applied with the tip of the brush, holding the brush
+nearly vertical, using a uniform stroke and taking care to prevent
+"tears" or surplus paint running over an edge. The brush should be in
+proportion to the size of the article painted, and the strokes should be
+outward toward the edges rather than from the edges inward.
+
+Features and fine lines on the toys may be placed with No. 3 round sable
+brush or with India ink in an ordinary drafting pen. The latter method
+of outlining and drawing in features has proved most successful with the
+writer's classes, as the solidity of the pen allows a firm pressure on
+the surface of the work and insures a uniform line. Fine or coarse lines
+may be made by adjusting the pen to suit the desired need.
+
+Considerable skill is needed to satisfactorily place lines with a fine
+pointed brush held in the hands of an inexperienced boy, and the
+drafting-pen method simplifies the problem immensely.
+
+Adjoining colors, outlined by this method, improve the appearance of the
+toy fifty per cent.
+
+Dull colors may be "livened up" by applying a coat of white shellac or
+varnish.
+
+Toys having parts of various colors, such as carts, etc., should have
+the different parts painted before assembling.
+
+
+
+
+STAINING.
+
+
+Before attempting to stain a toy, the wood should be carefully examined
+to see that all scars, glue or scratches have been removed. This is very
+important as the stain will show up all imperfections in the wood very
+plainly. Enough stain should be poured in a shallow cup for the piece of
+work at hand and should then be applied with a brush with the grain of
+the wood in long narrow bands from one end of the work to the other. The
+stain should be wiped with a piece of waste or cloth soon after being
+applied, removing all surplus stain and thus bringing out the grain of
+the wood.
+
+Pains must be taken when staining the edges not to allow the stain to
+run over on the adjacent surface. If it does the stain should be quickly
+wiped off with a piece of waste before it causes the surface to be
+unevenly stained.
+
+There will probably be no necessity in toy construction to use filler on
+the wood so the method of applying this will be omitted.
+
+Next apply a coat of white shellac (reduced by one part of alcohol to
+three parts of shellac), brushing it on quickly with the grain of the
+wood.
+
+Do not have too much shellac on the brush. If laps or runs show, work
+them out with the brush.
+
+After the shellac has dried eight or ten hours it should be rubbed
+lightly with No. 0 sandpaper. Be careful not to sand through the
+shellac, particularly on the edges. A second coat may be applied if
+desired.
+
+For the last coat apply a coat of either hard or liquid wax, the latter
+being preferable.
+
+Shake the can or jar before applying liquid wax. Apply evenly with a
+soft cloth and allow it to dry for an hour. Rub down to the proper
+luster with a soft clean cloth. Two or more coats of wax may be applied
+if desired.
+
+
+
+
+METHOD OF JOINTING WOOD.
+
+
+If, on account of width, certain pieces of work cannot be obtained from
+material at hand, two pieces may have to be joined together.
+
+One edge of each piece to be joined should be carefully planed square
+and straight. Keep trying the two edges together until a satisfactory
+joint is obtained, one so satisfactory that when the edges are placed
+together no joint line is visible. When such a joint is obtained we are
+ready to take the next step--to locate holes for dowels.
+
+This method is shown in Plate 1, Fig. A. Here the two pieces are placed
+face to face and lines are squared across the two edges, planning
+enough space to insure a strong job. Two or three dowels are usually
+sufficient. Locate the centers of all these lines so that the spur of
+the bit will come equidistant from each edge, as shown.
+
+Bore the holes at least twice as deep as the wood is thick. Thus for
+half inch stock the holes should be at least an inch deep.
+
+For half inch and three-eighths inch wood the hole should be bored with
+a quarter inch bit, for wood three-quarter inch to one inch thick a half
+inch bit should be used.
+
+Take extreme care in boring the holes to see that the bit is at right
+angles to the edge of the wood, otherwise difficulties will arise when
+we come to put the work together.
+
+After all holes are bored, the round sticks called dowels should be cut,
+one-eighth inch shorter than the combined depths of the two holes. This
+allowance is made so that glue may work under the ends of the dowels and
+also that the dowels may not be too long and thus prevent the edges of
+the joint from coming together.
+
+Apply glue to the dowels and insert them in the holes and spread glue on
+both of the edges, as shown in Fig. B, Plate 1.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 1._
+
+_METHOD OF JOINTING WOOD_]
+
+Place the work in clamps, if available, protecting the edges of the wood
+from the iron of the clamps with small pieces or blocks of soft wood.
+
+Fig. C shows the clamps in position. If no clamps are at hand a
+makeshift clamp may be made, as shown in Fig. D. In using this clamping
+arrangement a strong piece of wood should be nailed to the floor, where
+such nailing will do no harm, driving the nails only about
+three-quarters of the way in. Place the wood to be clamped against this
+and nail two wedge shaped pieces about an inch and a half away, as
+shown. Prepare other pieces, also of wedge shape, of a proper size to
+drive into place, as indicated.
+
+By a careful study of Fig. D the important features of such a method of
+clamping will be understood.
+
+The cold glue that comes in cans ready for use will be found most
+convenient for the beginner to use. The clamps should remain on the work
+overnight, and when removed the two surfaces of the wood must be cleaned
+of all glue and planed.
+
+
+
+
+SUPPORTS FOR HOLDING COPING SAW WORK.
+
+
+In Plate 2 are shown two devices for holding work while using the coping
+saw. Fig. A is a type of support suitable for use in a vise and is of a
+height that will enable the workman to stand while sawing. Fig. B is
+lower, and the sawing is done while sitting in a chair. This type is
+designed for use where there is no vise and is held secure by a clamp,
+as is shown in the sketch.
+
+[Illustration: Boys using correctly the Supports for Coping Saw Work
+detailed in Plate 2.]
+
+
+
+
+SUPPORT TO BE HELD IN VISE.
+
+
+In making this support the following method should be followed:
+
+The back piece is first made 7/8" × 6-3/4" × 20". The top is made 7/8" ×
+6-3/4 × 12" and the brace 7/8" × 3" × 8-1/2". This brace tapers to a
+point at the lower end. Two small cleats are 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 6-3/4" and
+are attached to the upright piece 1-7/8" up from the bottom edge. This
+allows the support to set firmly in the vise. Measure in from one end of
+the top piece 5" and have this point come half way between the sides. At
+this point a hole is carefully bored with a 3/4" bit. On this same end
+measure in from each edge 2-1/4". From these points draw lines tangent
+to the edges of the circle, as shown. Cut out this V-shaped notch.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 2._
+
+_SUPPORTS FOR HOLDING COPING SAW WORK_]
+
+Bore all holes shown on the drawing with a bit that will allow using
+1-1/4" or 1-1/2". No. 8 flat-head screws. Have all surfaces sanded
+smoothly and assemble with glue and screws.
+
+
+
+
+SUPPORT FOR TABLE USE.
+
+
+For the support shown in Fig. B, Plate 2, we make the upright 7/8" ×
+6-3/4" × 8-7/8". The top is cut 7/8" × 6-3/4" × 12" and the base 7/8" ×
+5" × 6-3/4" and the upright brace 7/8" × 3" × 8". The top has the same
+V-shaped notch cut in it as the other form of support. Bore all
+necessary holes, sandpaper and assemble. The clamp shown in the sketch
+answers the purpose very nicely and may be purchased for a small sum at
+any hardware store.
+
+
+
+
+THE BENCH HOOK.
+
+
+The bench hook is a very useful article to have about the work bench. It
+is made of hard wood, preferably maple. The drawing is shown in Plate
+3. The main piece is made 7/8" × 6" × 12". Two cross cleats are made,
+one being 7/8" × 1-1/2" × 6" and the other 7/8" × 1-1/2" × 5". Holes are
+bored and countersunk at the places shown in the drawing. Great care
+must be taken in cutting these three pieces of wood to see that every
+edge is square and true. One of the cleats is attached on one side of
+the board even with the end, while the other is placed on the other side
+on the opposite end. These are held in place with glue and 1-1/4" No. 8
+flat-head screws. By referring to the drawing and the sketch the idea
+may be readily seen. It will be noticed that the short cleat has its end
+even with the left-hand edge, thus leaving a space of an inch at the
+right. When used with this side up it is for the purpose of sawing off
+small pieces of wood with the back saw, and when used with the other
+side up, on which the long cleat is attached, it is for the purpose of
+planing the end of a piece of wood across the grain.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 3._
+
+_THE BENCH HOOK_]
+
+If a piece of wood is set up in a vise for end planing and the planing
+is done across the grain, the fibers on the further edge have no support
+but break away, as shown in Fig. C, Plate 3. In using the bench-hook the
+wood lies flat on the board and fits tight against the long cleat, and
+the plane is laid flat on its side and pushed back and forth. (Plate 3,
+Fig. A.) It can be readily seen that supported as it now is, the piece
+of wood being planed will not splinter or break on its further edge.
+Pains must be taken, however, to keep the plane flat on its side, not
+raising it on its edge at all, for by so doing the resulting planed edge
+will not be square. This bench-hook may be made quite easily by the
+beginner and besides being a good problem, is a very helpful addition to
+the tool outfit. It works very well when planing wood not over six or
+seven inches wide. Wood wider than this should be planed as follows:
+Place the piece of wood upright in the vise with the end grain
+uppermost, and plane about three-quarters of the way across the edge.
+Then turn the piece and plane the remaining part back in the opposite
+direction. By so doing the end of the wood will not be split.
+
+Figures A and B, Plate 3, show the operation of the bench-hook for both
+sawing and planing.
+
+
+
+
+SIMPLE TOOL SHARPENING.
+
+
+In order to do good, clean-cut, accurate work it is very necessary that
+all cutting tools be kept sharp. And it is important that every boy who
+undertakes toy making have an elementary knowledge of the subject,
+especially an understanding of how to properly sharpen the knife, the
+chisel and the plane blade.
+
+If the tool is very dull, with nicks in the cutting edge, it should be
+ground first on the grindstone. It is quite important that the blade be
+held at the proper angle, about 25 degrees on the stone. A suitable tool
+holder, such as is shown in the illustration on Page 26, is a very
+useful article to have in the tool equipment. The tool is held in place,
+bevel side down, by thumbscrews, and projects beyond the holder a little
+over half an inch.
+
+The grindstone should be thoroughly wet to prevent heating the tool and
+also to insure the washing away of the fine particles of steel from the
+surface of the stone.
+
+The round shape of the stone causes the bevel of the tool to be concave
+if held steadily in one position, as shown in Fig. A, Plate 4. Fig. B
+shows the incorrect result if the blade is not held evenly on the stone.
+It can be readily seen that the latter result will not make a very sharp
+cutting edge.
+
+Care should be taken when grinding not to round the corners of the tool.
+
+The theory of the cutting edge of the tool is the same as that of the
+wedge; the thinner the wedge the easier it is to drive it. However, the
+wedge, as well as the tool, must be thick enough to stand the strain of
+being driven into the wood, or the material which is to be split or cut.
+Too long and thin a bevel, while sharp at first, soon loses its edge
+through usage, while too blunt an edge makes the tool unsatisfactory to
+work with.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 4._
+
+_SIMPLE TOOL SHARPENING_]
+
+The grindstone leaves the tool edge rough, or with a wire edge, as it is
+called. This roughness is removed on the oil stone. One or two drops of
+thin stone oil should be placed on the stone and the tool placed bevel
+side flat on the surface of the stone. Work with a circular motion,
+bearing on the tool with uniform pressure. Turn the blade over, bevel
+side up, seeing that the blade lies perfectly flat on the stone. Work
+with a similar motion. Repeat these operations until the blade is as
+sharp as desired. Wipe the oil from the tool and test by drawing the
+blade lightly across the thumb. If the blade clings to the skin it will
+be found sharp enough.
+
+Fig. C, on Plate 4, shows the correct and incorrect methods of
+oil-stoning the tool blade. Always wipe the stone dry after using, as
+the oil will dry and gum up the grinding surface if not kept clean.
+
+Tool grinding is an important and rather difficult operation at first
+and skill comes only with continued practice.
+
+In sharpening a knife-blade on an oilstone care should be taken to keep
+the blade nearly flat on the stone in order to get a thin, sharp edge.
+The knife should be sharpened first on one side and then on the other,
+until the desired edge is obtained.
+
+Fig. D, Plate 4, shows the right and wrong methods of holding the knife
+blade on the stone. Figures E and F show the results of careless
+sharpening. Fig. G is sharpened correctly.
+
+[Illustration: Grinding Tool on Grindstone using Tool Holder.]
+
+
+
+
+COPING SAW WORK.
+
+
+The following plates of birds and animals (Plates 6 to 17) are
+especially interesting to the beginner and are excellent for the novice
+to prove and improve his skill with the coping saw.
+
+Wood from 1/4" to 1/2" in thickness is best for this type of toy, 3/8"
+being a good medium thickness to use. Pulp board, such as Beaver board,
+is also very good, as there is no grain and, therefore, little liability
+of splitting. Pulp board saws very easily and takes paint nicely.
+
+All of these toys are mounted on a wood base, made of 1/2" wood, of a
+size shown on the various drawings. The animal is attached to the base
+with glue and 1-1/4" brads.
+
+Wheels can be made from a round stick (called a dowel) an inch in
+diameter by carefully sawing off pieces 3/8" thick.
+
+Holes are bored at the middle point of these wheels large enough to
+allow them to turn easily on a 1" No. 6 round-head blue screw. Washers
+should be placed on the screws on both sides of the wheels.
+
+Plate 6 gives a general idea of the toy base.
+
+
+
+
+DOWEL STICKS.
+
+
+Dowel sticks are very useful to the toy maker and an assortment of
+various sizes should be kept on hand. They are very handy in many ways
+in toy making and furniture construction. They come in sizes from 1/4"
+to 1" in diameter or larger, in 30" lengths, and cost from two to three
+cents apiece.
+
+Dowel sticks are usually carried in stock by local hardware men or may
+be obtained from manufacturers of mill work.
+
+
+
+
+PICTURE PUZZLE CONSTRUCTION.
+
+
+The problem illustrated in Plate 5 is very interesting and especially
+good for the beginner.
+
+First, select a picture of the size desired from a calendar or discarded
+magazine. Colored pictures are the best.
+
+Prepare a piece of 1/4" soft wood, such as bass or pine, and glue the
+picture to the surface, rolling and pressing out air bubbles and
+smoothing away all wrinkles. Place a weight on the picture and allow it
+to dry overnight.
+
+Holding the coping saw so that the blade is straight up and down, or in
+other words, at right angles with the surface of the work, saw out
+irregular shaped pieces similar to those shown in the accompanying
+drawing.
+
+If these pieces are placed in a neat Christmas box, such as may be
+purchased at the five-and-ten-cent store, it will make a very pleasing
+Christmas gift.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 5._
+
+_PICTURE PUZZLE CONSTRUCTION_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 6._
+
+_PELICAN_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 7._
+
+_DUCK_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 8._
+
+_GOOSE_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 9._
+
+_RHINOCEROS_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 10._
+
+_ELEPHANT_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 11._
+
+_RABBIT_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 12._
+
+_LAMB_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 13._
+
+_GOAT_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 14._
+
+_ROOSTER_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 15._
+
+_CAMEL_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 16._
+
+_METHOD OF ENLARGING FIGURES_]
+
+
+
+
+METHOD OF ENLARGING FIGURES.
+
+
+If a figure shown in a book or in any picture is to be enlarged the
+following method is very simple:
+
+Enclose the figure in a rectangle and divide it in quarter inch squares,
+like the drawing of the duck in Plate 16.
+
+If the drawing is to be enlarged twice the original size, draw a
+rectangle on a piece of paper or cardboard twice as large as the
+picture. Divide it into exactly the same number of squares, which will
+now be twice as large as before, or one-half inch on a side. Letter and
+number all parts to agree.
+
+Start now and sketch the enlarged figure, having the lines pass through
+the same places in the squares of the large rectangle as in the small.
+
+With a little patience it will be surprising how accurate a copy can be
+made.
+
+A picture may be reduced by the same method.
+
+
+
+
+DIPPY DUCK.
+
+
+This toy is larger than the regular cut-out figure and has added action
+by the placing of the inner piece off-center on the larger wheel, thus
+causing the duck to move up and down as the toy is pulled along on the
+floor.
+
+As shown in the drawing (Plate 17), the base is made of four separate
+pieces, because it is easier to construct it this way than to cut out
+the slot from a solid piece. The wood used is 7/8" pine, the two long
+pieces being 1-1/2" wide by 15" long and the two end pieces 1-1/4" wide
+by 2-1/2" long. These are glued and chamfered. A small chamfer is planed
+around the top edge, as shown.
+
+The small base piece on which the duck rests is made 7/8" × 1" × 7-1/2".
+A hole is bored 2" from one end with a 1/2" bit and the slot is sawed
+out. The opposite end is rounded.
+
+A hole is bored in the end where the slot is cut 3/8" from the end, of a
+size that will take a piece of 16-penny nail tightly. The nail is cut
+one inch long and serves as an axle for the large wheel. A similar hole
+is bored, 3/8" from the other end, with a larger drill so that the nail
+used at this point will be smaller than the hole, allowing the base
+piece to move easily upon it.
+
+The large wheel is made by cutting a piece from a curtain rod 2-1/4" in
+diameter or by turning down a piece to this diameter on the lathe. This
+wheel is cut 3/8" thick. The four main wheels are 1-3/4" in diameter and
+3/8" thick. These wheels have a small hole bored exactly in their
+center, of a size large enough to allow a shingle, or a screw, nail to
+turn easily within.
+
+The wheels are attached two inches from the ends and the nails are
+driven in straight so as to insure the wheels turning evenly. A screw
+eye is placed at the front end, as shown, to which is attached a string
+to pull it by.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 17._
+
+_DIPPY DUCK_]
+
+All parts should be nicely sanded before assembling and then given two
+coats of paint. A suggested color scheme is given on the drawing.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 18._
+
+_MONITOR_ (_revolving turret_)]
+
+
+
+
+THE MONITOR.
+
+
+This design is what might be called an amphibious toy, which means one
+that is at home both on the land and water.
+
+The base, or hull, is made from a piece of 1/2" board, 5-1/4" wide and
+14" long. At a point on the long edges, 4-1/2" from the ends, a center
+is taken with a compass, or pair of dividers, set at 5-1/4" radius, as
+shown in the drawing. Strike all of these curves and cut to the line
+with a coping saw and finish smooth.
+
+The main turret and the two smaller blocks are either turned on a lathe
+or cut from a cylindrical piece of wood. If care is used the pieces can
+also be cut with a turning saw from a piece of wood of the required
+thickness. The two smaller pieces are cut from a piece of 7/8" board and
+are 1-3/4" in diameter and are attached with 1" brads and glue, 1-3/4"
+from each end.
+
+For the main turret, which is to be movable, a hole is bored in the hull
+exactly in the middle. In boring, a bit a little larger than the size of
+a 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screw is used, in order that the screw shank
+will move easily. This hole is countersunk on the under side. A smaller
+hole is started on the under side of the turret to receive the screw
+and, when the pieces are assembled, the screw is not screwed up tight,
+but enough play is left so that the turret will revolve fairly easily.
+
+[Illustration: The Monitor and the Merrimac and Animal Toys.]
+
+The two "guns" may be cut from 5/8" dowels, 2-3/8" long, or may be
+turned on a lathe. Two holes are bored, on opposite sides of the turret,
+3/8" deep, to receive the guns which are glued in.
+
+The two pieces to which the wheels are attached are made 1/2" × 3/4" ×
+4", and are secured in place 4" from bow and stern with shingle nails
+and glue.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 19._
+
+_MERRIMAC_]
+
+The four wheels are cut from 1" dowels, 7/8" thick.
+
+A hole is bored exactly in the middle of each wheel a little larger than
+the wire of a shingle nail, which is used to hold them in place on the
+base.
+
+A small piece of 1/4" dowel about 2-1/4" long, is inserted in a hole,
+bored with a 1/4" bit, 3/4" from the bow. This is the flagstaff, and
+just in front of this is placed a small screw eye to attach the string
+for pulling the toy. Give the entire toy two coats of black paint.
+
+
+
+
+THE MERRIMAC.
+
+
+The Confederate Ironclad is a little harder to make than the Monitor,
+but it is well within the ability of a sixth grade boy.
+
+The hull is made 1/2" × 5-1/4" × 14", and is sawed to a point at the bow
+and stern, sloping from the center point of both ends to points 3-1/4"
+from either end.
+
+The upper works are made from a block of wood 1-3/4" thick, 4-1/2" wide
+and 7-1/2" long. This is beveled so that the top is 3-1/4" × 6-1/4".
+
+The two smokestacks are made from pieces of 3/4" dowel, cut 3-1/4" long
+and inserted in holes bored 1/2" deep, 1" from the sides of the upper
+deck and 3-1/8" from the ends. These are held in place with glue.
+
+The flagstaff is cut from a piece of 1/4" dowel, 2-3/8" long, inserted
+in a hole, bored with a 1/4" bit, 3/4" from the bow.
+
+Just in front of this, 1/4" from the end, is placed a small screw-eye to
+which a string may be attached.
+
+The ten "guns" are made from 1/2" dowels, cut 1" long, and at an angle
+so that the lower side is 7/8" long. This is so that they will fit
+against the sloping sides of the turret.
+
+A hole is bored from end to end of each gun, in their centers, so that a
+1-1/2" finish nail will fit in nicely.
+
+The guns are held in place with these nails and with glue at the points
+indicated on the drawing.
+
+The upper works and hull are held together with 1" brads and glue, in
+such a manner that the gun turret is equally distant from the ends and
+sides of the hull.
+
+The pieces which hold the wheels are made 1/2" × 3/4" × 4" and are
+nailed and glued in place, 3-1/2" from bow and stern.
+
+The wheels are 3/8" thick, cut from 1" dowels, and are held by shingle
+nails driven into the axle in such a way that they will turn freely.
+
+The holes for the nails, in the wheels, are bored exactly in their
+centers with a bit a little larger than the nail to be used.
+
+After sanding and assembling give the boat two coats of black or battle
+ship gray paint.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 20._
+
+_CHILD'S SNOW SHOVEL_]
+
+
+
+
+CHILD'S SNOW SHOVEL.
+
+
+This problem is simple and of interest to young people during early
+winter. (Plate 20.)
+
+The handle may be made square in section first and then gradually
+rounded with a plane and then filed and sanded; or a discarded handle
+from some other implement may be utilized. The handle should be 28"
+long, and a hole should be bored and a rivet inserted 11-5/8" from one
+end. This is to reinforce the handle where the saw cut comes. This cut
+is made directly along the center of the handle and stops 11" from the
+end. If this cut is not made exactly in the center, the spreading, when
+the grip is inserted, will be unequal, and the shovel will not be in
+balance.
+
+The two ends of the shovel are rounded, as indicated, and the lower end
+is cut at an angle to fit the surface of the shovel.
+
+The grip should be cut from a 1" dowel and then cut to fit the angle
+formed by the spreading sides of the shovel.
+
+This is held in place by 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screws with washers, as
+indicated.
+
+The broad part of the shovel is cut from one piece, if possible, 1/2" ×
+8" × 10-1/2", and the front end cut an angle which is reinforced with a
+piece of zinc, 3-1/4" × 8", bent over and held by rivets and washers, as
+shown.
+
+The brace under the handle is cut 3/4" × 1-5/8" × 8" and then planed
+from an upper edge to within an inch of the opposite lower edge and
+secured in place with screws. The handle is attached to the blade with
+rivets and washers, as shown on the drawing.
+
+
+
+
+THE PERISCOPE.
+
+
+This is an interesting problem and demonstrates a scientific principle.
+
+For a periscope of the size shown in the drawing (Plate 21), two pieces
+of looking glass must be first cut 2-1/4" × 2-7/8".
+
+Pieces A are cut 3/8" × 2" × 4-1/4"; pieces B are 3/8" × 2-3/4" ×
+4-1/4"; pieces C, 3/8" × 1-7/8" × 2-3/4"; pieces D, 3/8" × 2" × 17-1/4";
+pieces E, 3/8" × 2-3/4" × 18-7/8"; and pieces F, 3/8" × 2-3/4" ×
+18-7/8".
+
+Two grooves 1/8" deep, and of a width to receive the thickness of the
+glass used, should be cut at an angle of 45 degrees, where indicated on
+the drawing. This groove is cut in pieces A only.
+
+All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1 sandpaper and finished
+with No. 0. Assemble, as shown on the drawing, using glue and 1" brads.
+
+The final finish may be stain or paint. Whatever finish is used should
+be of a dark color as best suited for a periscope.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 21._
+
+_PERISCOPE_]
+
+[Illustration: The Periscope in Use.]
+
+
+
+
+DOLL'S IRONING BOARD.
+
+(Size A.)
+
+
+This problem has proven very popular in toy-making classes and has been
+one of the best sellers at toy sales. It folds up compactly and is
+strong and serviceable.
+
+Plates 22, 23 and 24 show the ironing board in three sizes for children
+of varying ages.
+
+Plate 22 is for children of about three years of age, and the material
+is prepared as follows:
+
+The top is first made of 1/2" lumber and is 6" wide and 20" long. Set
+the dividers with a 3" radius and strike an arc just touching the end
+and two sides of the board. Do the same on the other end, using a 2-1/2"
+radius.
+
+[Illustration: The Three Types of Ironing Boards.]
+
+Connect these arcs with straight lines and saw and plane carefully just
+to the lines all around. The turning saw may be used on the ends.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 22._
+
+_DOLL'S IRONING BOARD_ (_Size A_)]
+
+Slightly round the upper edge of the surface which is to be uppermost.
+
+The legs are next cut to size, the two longer ones being 1/2" × 1" × 19"
+and the two shorter ones 1/2" × 1" × 18-3/4".
+
+One end of each is rounded by striking an arc with a 1-1/2" radius, at
+the extreme end. The other ends of the legs are cut off at an angle, as
+shown in the drawing.
+
+Holes are bored in the rounded ends of the long legs, 1/2" from the ends
+with a No. 3 bit. Another hole of similar size is bored 8-1/4" from the
+one previously bored. These holes are all 1/2" from the edges.
+
+On the short legs the only holes necessary are bored 8-1/4" from the
+rounded end.
+
+The long legs are attached by screws to a cleat which itself is screwed
+to the underside of the top of the board, as shown. This cleat is 7/8" ×
+1-1/8" × 4-1/2" and is glued and held to the top by 1-1/4" flat-head
+screws, two of them being sufficient. These are countersunk.
+
+The separating piece at the other end of the long legs is 1/2" × 1" ×
+4-9/16" and is held in place by 1-1/4" brads and glue. It is attached 2"
+from the ends.
+
+Two separating pieces are next made for the short legs, 1/2" × 1" ×
+3-1/2", and these are attached in the same manner as the piece between
+the long legs.
+
+A cleat 7/8" × 1" × 3-7/16" is attached with glue and 1-1/2" flat-head
+screws, 2" from the small end of the board. This holds the short legs in
+position.
+
+All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper before
+being assembled. No further finish is necessary.
+
+
+
+
+DOLL'S IRONING BOARD.
+
+(Size B.)
+
+The method of constructing this board is identical with the method
+suggested for board A. The difference is in the size of the pieces.
+(Plate 23.)
+
+This type of ironing board is suitable for a child from four to six
+years of age.
+
+The top is 5/8" thick, 7-3/4" wide and 24-1/2" long.
+
+The curved ends are struck with the dividers in the same way as in the
+preceding problem.
+
+The legs are next cut to dimension, the longer ones being 9/16" × 1-1/8"
+× 24", and the shorter 9/16" × 1-1/8" × 22-1/2".
+
+One end of each leg is rounded by setting the dividers at 9/16" and
+cutting to the line and cutting the opposite ends at an angle, as shown
+in the drawing.
+
+Bore holes with a No. 3 bit in the rounded ends of the long legs, 5/8"
+from the ends and a similar hole is bored 9-1/2" from the hole
+previously bored. These holes are all 9/16" in from the edges.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 23._
+
+_DOLL'S IRONING BOARD_ (_Size B_)]
+
+On the short legs the only holes bored are made with the same bit,
+9-3/8" from the rounded ends.
+
+The long legs are attached to a cleat by 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head blue
+screws, with washers under both the heads of the screws and between the
+screws and the cleat.
+
+The cleat is 7/8" × 1-1/8" × 5-7/8" and is glued and screwed to the
+under side of the top with 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screws.
+
+These are countersunk.
+
+The separating piece at the other end of the long legs is 3/8" × 1-1/8"
+× 5-15/16" and is held in place by 1-1/4" brads and glue, and is
+attached 3" from the end.
+
+Two separating pieces are next made for the short legs, 3/8" × 1-1/8" ×
+4-1/2", and these are attached in the same way as the piece between the
+longer legs.
+
+A cleat 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 4-7/16" is attached with glue and 1-3/4"
+flat-head screws, 4" from the small end of the board. This holds the
+short legs in position. Refer to the detail on the drawing of the size A
+ironing board (Plate 22) for the method of making the button which holds
+the board rigid.
+
+All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper before
+being assembled.
+
+No further finish is necessary.
+
+
+
+
+DOLL'S IRONING BOARD.
+
+(Size C.)
+
+
+The method of constructing this size board is similar to the other two
+types. (Plate 24.)
+
+This size board is suitable for children from six to eight years of age.
+
+The top is made 3/4" thick, 9" wide and 30" long. The dividers are set
+with a 4-1/2" radius and an arc is struck to touch the end and two sides
+of the board. A similar arc is struck at the opposite end with a 3-1/2"
+radius.
+
+These arcs are connected with a straight line, and the outline is cut
+with a saw and finally planed to the lines. The curved ends can be cut
+with a turning saw and finished with a chisel and file.
+
+The upper edges are slightly rounded with a file and sandpaper.
+
+The legs are next cut to size, two being 3/4" × 1-1/4" × 27-7/8", and
+the other two 3/4" × 1-1/4" × 29".
+
+One end of each is rounded by striking an arc with a 5/8" radius, at the
+extreme end. The other ends of the legs are cut at an angle, as shown in
+the drawing.
+
+Holes are bored in the rounded end of the short legs, 5/8" from the
+ends, of a size that will take a 1-3/4" No. 10 round-head blue screw.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 24._
+
+_DOLL'S IRONING BOARD_ (_Size C_)]
+
+Another hole of similar size is bored 11" from this. These holes are all
+5/8" from the edges.
+
+On the other two legs the only two holes necessary are bored 12-1/2"
+from the rounded ends.
+
+The shorter legs are attached by screws to a cleat which itself is
+screwed to the underside of the board, 4-1/2" from the large end. This
+cleat is 1" × 1-1/4" × 6-3/4" and is held in place with glue and 1-3/4"
+flat-head screws, countersunk. Two of these screws are sufficient.
+
+The separating piece at the other end of the legs is 3/4" × 1-1/4" ×
+6-13/16", and is held in place by 1-1/2" brads and glue, and is attached
+3-1/2" from the ends.
+
+Two separating pieces are next made for the long legs, 3/4" × 1-1/4" ×
+5-1/4", and these are attached in the same manner as the pieces between
+the other set of legs.
+
+A cleat 1-1/8" × 1-3/8" × 5-3/16" is attached with glue and 2" flat-head
+screws, 5-1/2" from the small end of the board. This holds the short
+legs in position.
+
+The wood button, shown on the drawing for the Size A ironing board
+(Plate 22), is attached to this cleat and prevents the board from
+collapsing.
+
+All pieces should be thoroughly sandpapered with No. 1/2 sandpaper
+before being assembled.
+
+No further finish is necessary.
+
+
+
+
+DOLL'S CLOTHES RACK.
+
+
+This folding clothes rack is an interesting toy and requires some skill
+in assembling. (Plate 25.)
+
+[Illustration: Playing House is real fun with such a dolls' clothes
+rack, ironing board, wash bench, table and stepladder.]
+
+The four legs are cut 3/8" × 3/4" × 13" and each end is rounded by first
+striking semicircles on the ends, using a 3/8" radius, and then
+finishing with a chisel carefully to the line.
+
+Holes are bored in these legs with a 1/4" bit in the following places:
+3/8" from the top, 4-7/8" beyond this, 3-1/4" beyond this, and 1-3/4"
+beyond this. Extreme care must be taken not to split the wood. Bore
+through from one side until the spur of the bit just starts to come
+through, then remove the bit and bore back from the other side.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 25._
+
+_DOLL'S CLOTHES RACK_]
+
+Next cut the four top pieces to size, two being 3/8" × 3/4" × 6" and two
+3/8" × 3/4" × 7". These are also rounded on both ends. Holes are bored
+3/8" from each end of all of these and also half way between their ends,
+as shown in Plate 25.
+
+These pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper.
+
+The cross pieces are cut from 1/4" dowels as follows: Four pieces,
+8-3/4" long; six pieces, 8" long; and one piece, 7-1/4" long.
+
+The long dowel sticks are the ones that go at points a, b, c and d,
+Plate 25, on the outside legs. The 8" dowels go at points e, f, g, h, i,
+and j. The single short dowel goes at point k.
+
+Examine the drawing carefully and see that the four top pieces are
+placed on the correct dowels. Hold all dowels, which are not at movable
+points, with 3/4" brads.
+
+Be sure every piece is in its proper position before driving in the
+brads and then be positive that no brad is being driven at a point where
+the dowel must be free to move in the hole. It is always best to
+assemble the rack completely and by closing and opening it learn clearly
+just where the brads are to be placed.
+
+No further finish is necessary.
+
+
+
+
+CHILD'S WASH BENCH.
+
+
+This bench may be made in various sizes to fit different heights of
+children. The top consists of three slats and for the size bench shown
+in Plate 26, the slats are made 3/8" × 1-3/4" × 18". These slats have
+screw holes bored 2-3/8" from the ends and 3/8" from the edges, as
+shown. These are countersunk to receive 1" No. 6 flat-head screws.
+
+Two braces are made 3/4" × 1/4" × 8". These are to support the slats.
+One inch from one end of these braces, and 5/8" from the edges, a hole
+is bored with a 3/8" bit. The same distance from the other end a similar
+hole is bored and a piece is sawed out, as shown in the drawing, to
+receive and support the dowel rod.
+
+The legs of the bench are cut 3/8" × 1" × 12-3/4". One-half inch from
+one end a hole is bored with a 3/8" bit. One and one-half inches from
+the other end a similar hole is bored and 7" from the same end the third
+hole is bored, making three in each leg. Care must be taken in boring
+these holes not to split the work as the bit goes through. Bore through
+on one side until the spur of the bit just starts through on the
+opposite side. Remove the bit and place the spur point in the small hole
+made by the spur and bore back in the opposite direction.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 26._
+
+_CHILD'S WASH BENCH_]
+
+The two cross slats forming the braces are 3/8" × 3/4" × 13". A center
+lap joint is made by cutting through half way on both slats at such an
+angle as will cause the outer edge of the slats to be about five inches
+apart. The ends of the slats should be sawed at such an angle as will
+make them flush with the sides of the legs and small holes drilled and
+countersunk so that they may be attached with 3/4" No. 4 flat-head
+screws.
+
+Two 3/8" dowel rods should next be cut, one being 12-1/2" long and the
+other 14" long.
+
+These dowels should be held in place in the legs by 3/4" brads, care
+being taken not to nail where there is to be a moving joint.
+
+All pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper.
+
+No other finish is necessary.
+
+
+
+
+CHILD'S STEP LADDER.
+
+
+This step ladder may be made in various sizes, the one shown here being
+suitable for children up to seven or eight years of age. (Plate 27.)
+
+The two front legs should be cut first, 5/8" × 2-1/4" × 21". It will be
+noticed that the two ends are cut off at an angle. This angle is
+obtained by measuring back on one side 1" and drawing to this point from
+the opposite corner. Make all of these angles equal and if possible cut
+them in a miter-box.
+
+The two rear legs, or braces, are cut 5/8" × 1-1/8" × 17-3/4", and the
+two ends are rounded. The semicircle is marked out by setting the
+dividers, or a compass, at a 9/16" radius and striking the curve tangent
+to the sides and ends of the legs.
+
+Two holes are bored with a No. 8 bit, 5/16" from one end of the rear
+legs and 1-1/4" from the other end, as indicated, care being taken not
+to split the wood.
+
+The top step is next made 5/8" × 5-1/4" × 9-3/4", and the top edges
+slightly rounded.
+
+Two holes are bored with a small drill, 1-1/2" from the ends of this
+step and 1" from the rear and front edges of both ends. These should be
+countersunk. Later, when assembled, this top is screwed to the braces
+with 1" No. 6 flat-head screws, as shown in the front view. (Plate 27.)
+
+Two braces are next made 5/8" × 2" × 5-1/4", and are cut off at either
+end at the same angle as were the ends of the front legs. These are
+attached to the inside of the legs, at the top, as shown in the side
+view, with four 1" No. 6 flat-head screws and glue. Care should be taken
+to get them just even with the front and top sides of the legs. Before
+the braces are attached a hole should be bored with a No. 8 bit 5/8"
+from the top edge and 1" from the left-hand edge to receive the dowel
+stick on which the rear leg swings.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 27._
+
+_CHILD'S STEP LADDER_]
+
+While boring this hole the end should be held with a clamp to prevent
+splitting.
+
+The two lower steps are next made. These are 5/8" thick and are cut 3"
+wide. The width is greater than is needed, and is provided that the
+steps may be planed even with the edges of the legs later. The steps are
+cut 8" in length.
+
+The next operation is cutting grooves for the steps to set into the
+legs, and this requires considerable care.
+
+The lower step is 5-3/4" from the lower end of the legs. This dimension
+is measured off on each leg, and a line is drawn parallel with the lower
+end of the leg. This may be done by either using a T bevel, set at the
+angle of the lower end of the legs, or the dimension, 5-3/4", may be
+measured up on both sides of the leg and a line drawn across.
+
+Next take the lower step and mark one end A and the other end B. Place
+the end A, of the lower step, evenly on this line and make a mark above
+the first line a little less than the thickness of the step. The groove
+is marked a little less than the thickness of the step so that, in case
+the saw cut is made a little wide, the step will not be likely to fit
+loosely.
+
+Square lines across both edges of the edge from the end of the lines
+previously drawn and measure down from the surface a distance of 1/4" on
+the edges. Draw a line through this point parallel to the edge of the
+leg.
+
+Next saw carefully on the lines, first drawn, down as far as this last
+line and cut the wood out with a half-inch chisel.
+
+If the step will not fit in the slot, plane a very slight amount from
+the surface of the step until it fits snugly into the groove.
+
+End B is fitted to the opposite leg in a similar way and the second step
+is placed in a like manner, 6-7/8" above the lower step.
+
+If the drawing is examined, as these directions for placing the steps
+are read, the explanation will be greatly simplified.
+
+The two narrow cross braces are next made, 3/8" × 5/8" × 15-1/2". These
+are crossed at their middle point in a middle-lap joint, a groove being
+cut half through each piece wide enough to insure a tight joint. These
+braces are attached to the rear legs, 2-1/2" from their lower ends, with
+3/4" No. 6 flat-head screws, the holes being previously bored and
+countersunk.
+
+Cut the ends of the braces even with the ends of the legs.
+
+Holes are bored with a small bit in the grooves in the legs, 1/2" in
+from the sides, as shown. These holes are for the round-head screws
+which hold the steps in place. The steps are held in the grooves of the
+legs with glue and 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 28._
+
+_DOLL'S TABLE WITH DRAWER_]
+
+The dowel sticks are now cut 8-3/4" long from a 1/2" dowel and, after
+all pieces of wood are carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper, the step
+ladder is assembled.
+
+A 3/4" brad should be driven into the edge of the rear legs so that it
+will penetrate and hold the dowel in place.
+
+A piece of small chain should be fastened to each front and rear leg, as
+shown, of a length sufficient to have the front legs of the ladder set
+flat on the ground. Also take care that the two chains are even with
+each other and parallel with the ground. No further finish is required.
+
+
+
+
+DOLL'S TABLE WITH DRAWER.
+
+
+While this table may be made in various sizes, the one shown in the
+accompanying drawing has proven very popular.
+
+The four legs are first made 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 12". Measure down 3" from
+one end and taper the legs equally from this point to a width of 7/8" at
+the opposite ends, as shown.
+
+The two side rails are made 1/2" × 2-7/8" × 6-1/2". The two front rails
+above and below the drawer are cut 1/2" × 1/2" × 12".
+
+On the side and rear rails, centers for dowels are located 5/8" from
+the top and lower edges and half way between the sides. An inch brad is
+driven in a short distance at these points, and the head is cut off
+about 1/4" above the surface of the wood. These ends are now placed so
+that their upper edges are even with the top of the legs. Press down
+lightly on the rails and a mark will be made on the surface of the legs.
+
+Remove the brads and bore the dowel hole with a 1/4" bit, 1-1/4" deep.
+
+The two drawer rails are treated in the same manner and the holes are
+bored.
+
+The top will no doubt have to be made of two pieces of wood jointed and
+glued together, and reinforced with dowels.
+
+The finished dimensions are 3/8" × 12" × 19".
+
+Short blocks of wood are screwed to the rear and two side rails even
+with their tops, and screws are later put through these from their under
+side to hold the top in place. A 3/4" No. 6 screw is placed in the
+center of the upper drawer rail to assist in holding the top in place.
+(See Plate 28 for details of the method of attaching the top.)
+
+Two strips of wood 1/2" wide, and thick and long enough to fit tightly
+between the front and rear rails, are made to serve as drawer slides.
+
+Similar strips of wood are glued to the inner part of the end rails to
+cause the drawer to run evenly. These strips are just thick enough to
+bring their surface even with the edge of the leg.
+
+All rails should be thoroughly sanded and then assembled with glue,
+screws, and brads as directed, the rails and legs being clamped for
+several hours to insure a tight fit.
+
+If the various parts of the table have been accurately made, the drawer
+should be now constructed to the dimensions called for in the drawing.
+If there has been any error in the making of the several pieces, of
+course the drawer must be made to fit the space in that individual
+table.
+
+The drawer front is 3/8" × 1-7/8" × 12". The sides are 1/4" × 1-7/8" ×
+11-1/2". These dimensions may all have to be trimmed down somewhat to
+secure an easy sliding fit. The drawer construction is clearly shown in
+the sketch. Bottom pieces of 1/4" wood are cut to fit, and after
+sanding, all pieces are glued and bradded together.
+
+Handles of the size shown in the drawing may be turned on the lathe or
+made by hand, and placed as indicated.
+
+As this type of table is patterned after the ordinary kitchen table it
+may be left unfinished.
+
+
+
+
+COLONIAL DOLL'S TABLE.
+
+
+This table, with the accompanying chairs shown in Plate 30, makes a very
+artistic and interesting problem in toy-making.
+
+The table and chairs work up very nicely if made of oak and stained a
+mission brown. They may also be made of soft wood and stained or
+painted. Directions for staining may be found in the front part of the
+book.
+
+The top (Plate 29) is made 3/8" × 11" × 16" and, if a piece of wood 11"
+wide is not obtainable, two narrow pieces will have to be joined. (See
+method of joining wood on page 18.)
+
+The four uprights are made 1" × 1" × 6-1/4", and the four cross pieces
+5/8" × 1" × 8".
+
+The ends of the cross pieces are cut at a bevel, as shown, and notches
+are cut 1-1/8" from each end, 1/8" deep, to receive the ends of the
+upright. Care must be taken to get a snug fit. It is better to have the
+notches a trifle too small than too large. If cut a little small, the
+uprights are easily made to fit the grooves by planing a slight amount
+from their edges.
+
+Four bottom pieces are made 1/4" × 1-1/4" × 1-1/4", to be attached to
+the lower cross piece, as shown, allowing 1/8" projection all around.
+They are fastened with 1/2" brads and glue. When attaching, see that the
+grain of the little square pieces runs the same as the cross pieces. On
+account of the thinness of the wood, holes may have to be bored for the
+brads. If no small drill is at hand a brad may be used as a drill.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 29._
+
+_COLONIAL DOLL'S TABLE_]
+
+Holes are bored in the two upper cross pieces, 3/4" from their ends.
+These are countersunk to receive 3/4" No.6 flat-head screws, when
+assembling, and are to hold the top in place.
+
+Holes are likewise bored for the same size screws, 1-5/8" from each end
+of the four cross pieces, which brings the holes in the center of each
+notch. These holes are also countersunk.
+
+The long lower brace is made 5/16" × 2-1/2" × 12". When assembling, this
+piece is located as shown in the drawing and is held in place with glue
+and 1/2" brads.
+
+Sand all pieces carefully with No.1 sandpaper first and finish with No.
+0.
+
+If stain is to be used, it may be found easier to stain the pieces
+before assembling. Assemble as previously described, using glue where
+necessary and turning all screws up tightly. Apply final finish as
+desired.
+
+
+
+
+COLONIAL DOLL'S CHAIR.
+
+
+This chair goes with the Colonial Table shown in the preceding drawing
+(Plate 29), and at least two chairs should be made to form the set.
+
+The sides are first cut from 3/8" material, 5" wide and 11-1/2" long.
+
+A freehand curve, following the general design of the one shown, should
+be traced on a piece of paper, cut to the above size. After the outline
+is satisfactory, the design should be traced on the wood preparatory to
+cutting out. The cutting should be done with a coping saw, cutting to
+the line for a finish. Place the two sides together to see if they
+match. Variations should be trimmed down so that the pieces are exact
+duplicates.
+
+The back is next made, 3/8" × 5-1/8" × 10-3/4".
+
+The seat is made 3/8" × 4-1/2" × 5-1/8", and the front board of the seat
+measures 3/8" × 3-1/2" × 5-1/8". The seat is rounded on the front edge,
+and the front board of seat is beveled at top and bottom to set snugly
+under the seat, at the slight angle shown. This angle is obtained by
+measuring in 1-3/8" from the front, as shown in the side view.
+
+Sandpaper all pieces thoroughly and assemble the sides and back first,
+with glue and 3/4" brads. Set these brads below the surface and fill the
+cavity with hard beeswax. Assemble the seat and front board next, and
+then nail these between the sides of the chair, as shown in the drawing.
+
+Finish as desired. See Pages 15 to 18 for method of staining and
+painting.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 30._
+
+_COLONIAL DOLL'S CHAIR_]
+
+
+
+
+RING-THE-HOOK GAME.
+
+
+This game is very simple in construction yet affords a great deal of
+pleasure to young people. (Plate 31.)
+
+The desired outline, the dimensions for which are given in the drawing,
+is sketched on a piece of folded paper, as is shown by the sketch, and
+the design is then cut out and traced on a piece of wood cut from stock
+5/8" × 11" × 12".
+
+The cutting should be roughly done with a turning saw and finished
+carefully to the line with a chisel and file.
+
+A small chamfer gives a finished appearance if placed on the front edge.
+
+The board should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first, and
+then finished with No. 0. The final finish may be several coats of
+shellac or two coats of a bright lively color of paint. If a shellac
+finish is used, the numbers should be lettered in with water-proof India
+ink, after the first coat of shellac is dry, and the second coat should
+be applied over this.
+
+If paint is the finish selected, the numbers may be put on with the ink
+after the final coat is dry.
+
+Hooks are located at the various points shown on the drawing, and pains
+should be taken to get them in perpendicular to the surface of the
+board. Place a screw-hook at the top to hang up by.
+
+The rings used are the ordinary preserve jar rings and ten should
+constitute a set.
+
+The board should be placed on the wall, about five feet from the floor
+and the contestants should stand about six feet from it.
+
+The idea is to toss the rings in such a manner that they will land over
+the hooks. The best results are obtained by holding the ring between the
+thumb and the first two fingers, at right angles to the floor. Throw in
+such a way that the ring will strike flat against the board. With a
+little practice considerable accuracy can be developed in placing the
+rings.
+
+A score of one hundred should constitute a game.
+
+
+
+
+FIVE POST RING TOSS.
+
+
+Although the game of ring toss is an old one, yet it never loses its
+attraction for many young people, and older ones as well.
+
+The type of ring toss shown in the accompanying plate is a little
+variety from the regular form, each post being painted and numbered with
+the points scored by ringing that particular post. (Plate 32.)
+
+The middle post, painted black, is a minus score, the ring falling on
+this causing a loss of five points.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 31._
+
+_RING THE HOOK GAME_]
+
+The rings, five in number, are painted at their joining points with
+colors similar to the posts. If a ring falls over a post of the same
+color as that painted on the ring the score is doubled. A black ring on
+the black post doubles the loss. The board should be set on the floor
+about eight feet from the contestants. The best results can be obtained
+by holding the rings by the thick, heavy part, parallel to the floor,
+and tossing quite high in order that they may fall flat from a point
+above the posts.
+
+[Illustration: The Ring Toss.]
+
+The posts are made with a tenon, which fits snugly in a mortise, and are
+removable so that they may be taken out when not in use. The rings may
+be made of various materials, such as rope and rattan. A very
+satisfactory ring is made by the writer's classes, by using chair
+spline. This is a rattan, light, cheap and easily bent, and may be
+bought of any firm dealing in upholstery and chair-seating materials. A
+piece about 17" long is bent in circular form, overlapping about an inch
+and held with two 1/2" brads, cleated on the underside, as shown. Wrap
+with white friction tape.
+
+The base of the ring toss is first cut 7/8" × 15" × 20". The center of
+each side and end is located and these points are connected, forming a
+diamond shape. Cut to this line and plane the edges smooth. Plane a 1/8"
+chamfer around the upper edge.
+
+Post A is made 1" × 1" × 11-3/4"; posts B and C are 1" × 1" × 8-1/4";
+post D, 1" × 1" × 5-1/4"; and post E, 1" × 1" × 6-3/4". All of these
+posts are chamfered about 1/8" at the top.
+
+It will be noticed, by referring to the drawing of the side view, that
+each post is an inch square for a certain distance up and from that
+point they taper to 1/2" square at the top. These measurements are
+figured from the shoulder where they rest upon the board, there being a
+1/2" tenon below. These tenons are cut so that they will be 1/2" square
+and 3/4" long.
+
+All holes or mortises are located 1-1/2" directly in from the corner or
+point at which they rest, except the center post, which is at the center
+point of the board. These mortises should be a fairly tight fit, yet
+allowing for the removal of the uprights when not in use.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 32._
+
+_FIVE POST RING-TOSS_]
+
+The color scheme is suggested on the drawing but may be changed to suit
+the individual taste. After painting or shellacking the board the first
+coat, the numbers should be lettered in, using waterproof India ink, and
+then the second coat applied.
+
+
+
+
+BEAN BAG GAME.
+
+
+This is another very popular and interesting game and gives the girls in
+the domestic science course a little opportunity to show their skill in
+making the bags. These should be cut so that they will finish about four
+inches square and one end left open so that they may be filled about
+three-fourths full of beans, peas or small pebbles. The end is then
+sewed up. Burlap, ticking or any odd pieces of cloth may be used for the
+bags.
+
+The board itself will, no doubt, have to be glued up from two or more
+boards in order to have the finished size 20" wide by 24" long. (Plate
+33.) Half inch bass or whitewood is suitable.
+
+A piece of paper should be cut 20" × 24" and folded so that it is 12" ×
+20". Trace the outline on this paper, cut and unfold and lay on the
+board and trace around this. Cut to the line, using a turning saw and
+chisel and perhaps a wood file on the curves.
+
+[Illustration: Boys as well as Girls enjoy the Bean Bag Game.]
+
+The openings are located, as shown by the drawing. The centers are first
+obtained, and then the widths and lengths are measured from these center
+lines. Holes are next bored, as shown by the small sketch, with a 3/4"
+bit, and either a turning or a keyhole saw is used to cut out the
+pieces. If a turning saw is used, the blade must first be unfastened at
+one end, inserted in the hole and re tightened on the opposite side.
+Finish carefully to the line with chisel and file.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 33._
+
+_BEAN BAG GAME_]
+
+A small block 1/2" × 1-1/2" × 2-1/8" is attached to the back of the
+board with 3/4" No. 6 flat-head screws. This is to hold the hinge.
+
+The long brace is made 1/2" × 2-1/8" × 18-1/2" and is held to the small
+block by the hinge spoken of previously. A screw-eye is placed about 2"
+from the lower end of this brace and a wire or stout cord runs from this
+to similar screw-eyes, placed on the back of the main board about 2"
+from the bottom edge and 3" from the side edges. The cord or wire should
+be of sufficient length to cause the board to tip at about 60 degrees.
+
+After the board has been carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first and
+then finished with No. 0, the whole board should receive a coat of white
+shellac. After allowing this to dry over night, it should be rubbed down
+lightly with fine sandpaper and the numbers 2, 3 and 5 lettered on with
+black waterproof India ink. Apply another coat of shellac, or two more
+if necessary.
+
+Paint may be used instead of shellac as a finish, in which case the
+numbers should be put on with paint of a contrasting color to show up
+well.
+
+The little sketch in the drawing shows the back braces made the same as
+those on the Dart Game Board. While this is a little more difficult than
+the simple screw-eye and wire arrangement, it is much more satisfactory.
+
+
+
+
+DART BOARD GAME.
+
+
+This game has proven very popular, not only with the young folks, but
+with the grown-ups as well. Any game where skill and accuracy may be
+developed has a strong appeal to both boys and girls as well.
+
+The board illustrated in Plate 34, should be made of soft wood--bass,
+pine or white wood is suitable--and cut to 15" wide by 21-1/2" long,
+from 7/8" material. The top edge is chamfered 1/4".
+
+The surface should be thoroughly planed and sanded and given a coat of
+white shellac. While this is drying, the rear supporting braces may be
+gotten out. The main support is 7/8" × 2-1/8" × 19". A hole is bored
+with a No. 10 bit, 1-9/16" from the end, and a piece is sawed out 5/8"
+wide from the opposite end to this hole. See the drawing for detail. A
+piece of 1/4" dowel is glued in the end to reinforce the piece, as
+shown.
+
+The smaller piece Y is cut 7/8" × 3/8" × 17" and is held to piece X by a
+quarter-inch dowel, as shown. A brass cup hook is screwed into the end
+which is connected with a brass screw-eye placed in the back of the
+board, 2-1/4" from the bottom edge.
+
+[Illustration: The Dart Board in Use.]
+
+The small block X is 7/8" × 1-1/2" × 2-1/8" and is attached, as
+indicated, with glue and two 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws.
+
+The long brace X is attached to this by a 2" butt hinge and 1" flat-head
+screws.
+
+This folding arrangement has proven very satisfactory. The board packs
+nicely and stands rigidly when in position for playing. However, a
+simpler bracing may be used. The long brace X may be a solid piece 7/8"
+× 2-1/8" × 19", with a screw-eye on the underside from which a wire can
+run to a similar screw-eye on the back of the board. The wire can be
+adjusted so that the board will slope at the proper angle.
+
+After being sanded, the surface of the board should be given a coat of
+shellac and after drying should be rubbed down with No. 1/2 sandpaper.
+
+The circles should now be struck with a compass and waterproof ink, the
+diameters given, using a fairly heavy line. After the ink is dry give
+another coat of shellac. When this is dry the board is ready to have the
+colors applied to the circles.
+
+First paint circle A black and circle C red, painting just to the circle
+edge. Allow this to dry thoroughly, and then paint circle B yellow and
+circle D green. When these are dry, it may be necessary to strike all
+the circles again with ink.
+
+Where shown, letter in the numbers to score the game. It will be noticed
+that the small outside circles are minus numbers.
+
+Give the entire board and braces a finishing coat of shellac.
+
+
+Darts.
+
+The darts may be whittled out by hand, but the most satisfactory ones
+are turned out on the lathe to the dimensions shown. A 1-1/2" brad
+should be driven half its length into the rounded end, the head cut off
+with cutting pliers, and the end pointed with a fine file.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 34._
+
+_DART GAME BOARD_]
+
+At the opposite end two holes should be drilled of a size large enough
+to receive the ends of wing or tail feathers of some accommodating fowl.
+These should be dipped in glue and pressed into place.
+
+About six of these darts should be made and the wooden parts painted in
+bright colors. Birch or maple are good woods to use.
+
+The board should be placed on the floor, about ten feet from a given
+station point, and each contestant should be allowed to throw the six
+darts. The score should then be counted. Darts landing on a line should
+be credited to the lower number. One dart landing on and sticking to
+another, doubles the score of the first dart. Darts not sticking in the
+board are not allowed to be re-thrown. Darts knocked out by other darts
+lose their score.
+
+One thousand points should constitute a game.
+
+The points of the darts may be sharpened from time to time with a fine
+file.
+
+
+
+
+WIND MILL.
+
+
+This is an interesting toy to place on the top of the shed or garage
+where the wind will have a chance to revolve the brightly colored wheel
+at a good rate. It also serves as a weather vane.
+
+[Illustration: Three Kinds of Wind Mills and the Sand or Water Mill.]
+
+The main part of the mill (Plate 35) is made up of four pieces of half
+inch stock, two being 3-1/2" × 4-3/4" and two 2-1/2" × 4-3/4". The two
+larger sides taper to 2-1/2" wide at the top and the two smaller pieces
+to 1/2". The top piece forming the roof is made from a piece of wood
+1-3/4" thick. If wood of this thickness is not available, several
+thinner pieces must be glued together. It is cut 3-1/2" × 3-1/2" and a
+line is drawn around the edge 3/8" from the lower sides. From this line
+the roof tapers to a point directly over the middle of the piece, as
+shown.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 35._
+
+_WIND MILL_]
+
+The long support, on which the mill rests, is made 1/2" × 1-1/4" ×
+10-1/4". Two holes are bored and countersunk for the screws which hold
+it to the mill base. A similar hole is bored from the opposite end for
+the screw which holds in place the round piece A.
+
+The circular piece marked A on the side view, is made 3/8" × 2-1/2". A
+hole is bored 1/2" deep with a quarter inch bit on the edge. The piece C
+is a quarter inch dowel, 7-3/4" long. A hole is bored with a quarter
+inch bit in the roof, at a slant, as is shown in the side view. This
+hole is 3/8" deep.
+
+The dowel piece C fits in these holes when assembled, being held with
+glue.
+
+The smaller base piece, which is attached to the bottom of the mill with
+glue and 1" brads, is made 1/2" × 4" × 5". The small piece, on which the
+vanes of the mill turn, is made from a piece of half inch dowel, cut
+1-1/2" long. A hole is bored in the roof piece 1/2" deep to receive
+this. A smaller hole is drilled in the outer end of this dowel to
+receive a 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screw on which the vanes revolve.
+
+A piece is now cut 3/4" × 7/8" × 7" to serve as the supporting piece on
+which the whole mill turns. On one end a notch is cut, as shown in the
+drawing, 3/8" deep and 1-1/2" long. Two screw holes are bored in this
+notch to allow the piece to be attached to the shed or roof. On the
+opposite end a hole is bored in the center, 3/4" deep and with a drill
+that will insure a 16-penny nail fitting very tightly. One of these
+nails should be driven in and the headed end cut off so as to allow a
+projection of 1" beyond the end of the wood. The end of this nail should
+be filed smooth and round.
+
+A hole is bored to receive this in the base pieces, as shown in the
+drawing, extending through both pieces and large enough for the nail to
+turn freely within. A washer should be placed over this to insure the
+mill turning easily.
+
+The two pieces for the vane of the mill are made 3/4" × 1" × 5-1/2".
+Each vane is chiseled at an angle, sloping in one direction at one end
+and in the opposite direction at the other, allowing at least 1/8" for
+the thickness. Considerable pains should be used in shaping these vanes
+to insure even balance. File and sand these smooth.
+
+A middle lap joint is made exactly in the center of each vane, cutting
+half through on each piece and making a smooth, flush fit. Hold the
+vanes together with glue and 1/2" brads at this point and carefully bore
+a hole at the center large enough to allow a 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head
+screw to turn easily.
+
+A small washer is placed under the head of the screw and one between the
+rear of the vanes and the end of the supporting dowel. Turn the screw up
+tight enough to allow the vanes to clear nicely.
+
+All pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first and
+finished with No. 0. Paint all pieces before assembling.
+
+A suggested color scheme is shown in the drawing.
+
+
+
+
+WIND MILL.
+
+(Type B.)
+
+
+This is another interesting action toy and makes a very pleasing
+addition to the top of a garage or barn. (Plate 36.) Children also enjoy
+toys of this sort at the beaches where they can build up little villages
+in the sand.
+
+The four long uprights are made 1/2" × 1/2" × 19". The top piece, which
+is eight sided, is first made 1/2" × 3-1/4" × 3-1/4". Then 3/4" is
+measured in from each corner and these points are connected and the
+lines cut carefully with a saw. A hole is bored in the center with a bit
+a little smaller than a 1-3/4" No. 8 screw.
+
+The piece to which the long uprights are attached is next made, 1/2" ×
+2-1/4" × 2-1/4". Measure in from each corner, on the upper surface,
+5/8", and from each corner on the lower edge measure in 1/2". Draw
+these sloping lines from top to bottom points and saw these corner
+pieces out very carefully. A hole is bored in the center of this piece
+similar to the hole bored in the previous piece.
+
+Attach the long uprights to this piece with glue and 1-1/4" brads,
+trimming the top ends of the uprights with a chisel and file until they
+are flush with the surface of the top piece.
+
+Carefully spread the uprights until they are 9-1/2" apart from outside
+to outside, as shown. Mark off points on the inside edges 4" up from the
+bottom ends and 7-1/4" above the first marks. These points are to locate
+the places where the cross pieces go.
+
+Cut the eight cross braces 1/2" × 1/2" and sufficiently long to fit
+nicely at these points between the uprights. It will be noticed that
+they will have to be cut at a slight angle. Attach these braces with
+glue and 1-1/4" brads, seeing that they are all even and parallel with
+the floor when setting upright.
+
+The angle braces are made 1/2" × 1/2" × 11" and cross each other with a
+halved joint, as shown. The ends are cut at an angle to conform to the
+slope of the uprights and are attached to them by 1" brads and glue.
+
+Piece E is now made, 1-1/4" × 1-1/4" × 2", and is tapered to 3/4" square
+at the upper end. This is done by measuring in 1/4" from each upper
+corner and drawing to the lower corners and cutting to the line. A
+small hole is bored in the center of the upper end to start the screw
+which holds piece B in place.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 36._
+
+_WIND MILL_ (_type B_)]
+
+Piece B is made 3/4" × 3/4" × 5-1/2" and has a slot cut in it, 1/4" wide
+and 2-3/8" long, as shown. The inside end of the slot is cut at a slight
+angle to receive the slope of tailpiece C. A hole is bored 3-1/4" from
+the slot end of this piece, of a size to turn freely on a 1-1/2" No. 8
+round-head screw.
+
+Tail C is made 1/4" × 4" × 6" and then 1/2" is measured up from the
+lower right end corner and 1/2" measured in from this point toward the
+left and a dot is placed. Draw lines from this dot to the
+lower-left-hand corner and to the upper-right-hand corner. Round all of
+these corners, using a 1/2" radius and carefully finish to the lines all
+around.
+
+The vanes A must be very carefully made to insure a close fit and proper
+balance. Two pieces are cut 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 7". The method of forming
+the vanes will be more easily understood by referring to the detail,
+where every measurement is plainly given. The two vanes are joined with
+a middle lap joint, which requires considerable skill in forming. Each
+piece is cut half way through at its middle point, seeing that the
+groove is no wider than the width of the piece that goes within it.
+
+The two vanes are joined with glue and four 3/4" brads.
+
+A hole is bored in the center, of a size that will turn easily on a
+1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screw.
+
+Sand all pieces well with No. 1/2 sandpaper.
+
+Paint the various pieces as suggested in the color scheme and attach the
+tail C to piece B with glue and 1/2" brads.
+
+The vanes A are attached to piece B with a 1-1/2" round-head screw, with
+washers under the screw head and between the vanes and piece B. Piece B
+is attached to block E with a 1-1/2" round-head screw, with washers
+under the screw head and between B and E.
+
+Have all movable parts so that they will move freely.
+
+A finish nail may be placed in the lower part of each leg to secure the
+mill to the desired location.
+
+
+
+
+SAND OR WATER MILL.
+
+
+This is an interesting beach toy as either fine sand or water may be
+used to operate it. (Plate 37.) It is very simple to construct and is
+made as follows: The base is constructed of 1/2" pine, 7-1/2" wide and
+7-1/2" long; and the four blocks which are glued and bradded to the
+corners, are 1/2" × 1" × 1". The two uprights are 3/4" × 7/8" × 8-1/4",
+and the two cross supports at the tops measure 3/4" × 7/8" × 2-1/2".
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 37._
+
+_SAND OR WATER MILL_]
+
+Two holes are bored in the base for the screws that hold the uprights in
+place. These holes are 2-3/4" from the end and 2-1/8" from the sides.
+
+Holes are bored in the little top braces 1/2" from the two ends and one
+just in the middle, or 1-1/4" from the ends. These are for the screws
+that hold the braces to the uprights and to the top piece. All holes are
+bored with a drill suitable to take 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws, and
+all are countersunk on the side where the screw enters.
+
+The top piece is made 1/2" × 5-1/4" × 5-1/2" with the two front corners
+slightly rounded, as shown.
+
+A hole is bored of a size to receive the funnel used, 1-1/2" from the
+front edge and 2-5/8" from the sides.
+
+A hole is drilled in each upright piece, 3-1/2" from the lower end, of a
+size that will insure a driving fit to the wire used, in this case being
+a piece of No. 12 copper-dipped, 4-3/4" long.
+
+A piece of 3/4" dowel is cut off 7/8" long and a similar hole is bored
+about two-thirds of the way through, as shown.
+
+Four holes are bored, as indicated on the drawing, for the quills, which
+are later glued in place. Feathers from the poultry yard will furnish
+these.
+
+Sand all pieces with No. 1 sandpaper and first assemble the top, the
+two uprights and the two cross supports. Paint these two coats of red
+paint.
+
+Attach the cross blocks to the base with glue and 3/4" brads and paint
+two coats of yellow. Paint the tunnel two coats of bright green.
+
+While these are drying construct the paddle wheel. The piece through
+which the wire axle runs is 3/4" × 3/4" × 2-1/4". The four blades are
+1/4" × 2-1/4" × 2-3/4".
+
+After these are sanded and a hole is bored through the center piece,
+nail the blades to the center piece, in the position shown in the side
+view. Use 3/4" brads and glue for fastening the blades. Paint two coats
+of yellow.
+
+When the parts so far assembled are thoroughly dry, finish the assembly,
+using 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws and glue.
+
+The toy is now ready to operate.
+
+
+
+
+DOLL'S CRADLE.
+
+
+A cradle built according to Plate 38 is suitable for a doll sixteen or
+seventeen inches in length.
+
+The two sides should be first made 1/2" × 6-1/2" × 20". These are later
+beveled slightly on their lower edge to conform to the slope of the head
+and foot board.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 38._
+
+_DOLL'S CRADLE_]
+
+Measure from one end along the top edge 7-1/4" and from the other end
+11-1/4". From this last end the width of the side is cut down to 4-1/2",
+as far as the 11-1/4" measurement previously made. Connect the point
+which is 7-1/4" from the left end with the point which is 11-1/4" from
+the right end. This gives a slope of approximately 30 degrees, as is
+shown in the side view. Slightly round the corners, as indicated.
+
+The head board is next made 1/2" × 7" × 8-3/4".
+
+Measure in, on one of the long edges, an inch from either corner, and
+from these points draw straight lines to the upper corners. Cut
+carefully to this line. This makes the lower edge 6-3/4" long. The upper
+corners are rounded, as shown.
+
+The foot board is made in a similar manner, first cutting it 1/2" × 5" ×
+8". Place the head and foot board together to see if they exactly
+correspond. If not, plane or saw them while together so they are exactly
+alike, except in height.
+
+The four pieces so far completed may now be assembled, using glue and 1"
+brads.
+
+See that this frame sets flat when placed on a level surface.
+
+The base is next made 1/2" × 8-3/4" × 20". The two rockers are cut 3/4"
+× 2-3/4" × 13-1/2".
+
+It is a good plan to cut a piece of paper the above size, fold across
+the short way and sketch on the folded surface one-half the rocker
+shape. When this has been done in a satisfactory manner it may be
+unfolded, cut out and drawn on wood. The rocker ends have a slight
+shoulder of 1/8", as shown. In sloping the rockers, get them alike and
+make the curve such as will cause them to rock with a very slight
+pressure.
+
+[Illustration: Two Types of Doll Cradles.]
+
+Holes are bored with a small drill in the base, 2-1/2" from the ends and
+1-1/2" from the sides. A hole is also bored half way between the two, as
+shown, and all are countersunk on the upper side.
+
+Attach the rockers with glue and 1" No. 6 flat-head screws.
+
+See that they project equally on the sides and are square with the
+edges.
+
+Now nail the rocker base to the upper frame previously made, using 1"
+brads and glue. Have the base project equally from the upper frame on
+each side and come flush with the ends.
+
+All pieces should have been carefully sanded, of course, before
+assembling.
+
+The next, and last step is the final finish. If paint is to be the
+finish, select the desired color and apply a priming and a finish coat.
+Follow directions in the front of the book for painting.
+
+
+
+
+COLONIAL DOLL CRADLE.
+
+
+The type of cradle, shown in Plate 39, is similar in many ways to the
+one on the last plate. It is, however, more artistic and somewhat more
+difficult to make.
+
+Follow directions on the last plate for making rockers, base and
+footboard.
+
+The headboard is cut 1/2" × 8-3/4" × 10-7/8".
+
+Place a center line, longways of the piece, as shown in the end view. At
+the top measure 1-1/4" each side of the center line and make a dot. At
+the base measure 3-3/8" each side of the center line and place a dot.
+
+Measure 1-3/4" from the top edge, on each side. Connect these points, as
+shown in the end view. Cut carefully to the lines. Test the head and
+footboard to see if they compare.
+
+Make the two sides of the cradle next 1/2" × 9-1/4" × 20".
+
+Seven inches from one end and 6-1/4" from the lower edge strike a circle
+1-3/8" in radius. From the lower edge of this circle draw a line
+parallel to the base. This will make the narrow part of the sides 4-1/2"
+wide.
+
+From the point directly over the center of the circle, square a line to
+the top edge of the side. The outline of the side is now ready to be cut
+out. If an expansive bit is obtainable, bore the hole from the center of
+the circle with the bit set at 1-3/8" radius. If this bit is not
+obtainable, the hole must be cut out with a key-hole or a turning saw
+after first cutting to the circle, along the other lines previously
+drawn.
+
+The short top edge of the sides should now be beveled to conform to the
+slope of the head board.
+
+Next make the two top pieces which form the sloping part of the roof.
+These are 1/2" × 5-1/4" × 7-3/4". These must be planed at their top edge
+to quite a sharp bevel until they are even with the top of the head
+board.
+
+The top piece is the final piece cut, and this is 1/2" × 4-3/4" ×
+7-3/4".
+
+The pieces should now be carefully sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper and the
+sides and ends assembled with glue and 1" brads.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 39._
+
+_COLONIAL DOLL CRADLE_]
+
+The roof pieces are next placed. Be sure that the top piece sits flat
+and overhangs equally on both sides.
+
+Holes are bored in the bottom piece for screws, 2-7/8" from the ends and
+1-1/2" from the sides. A third hole is bored at each end half way
+between the other two, as shown, and all are countersunk.
+
+Attach the rockers with glue and 1" flat-head screws, being careful that
+they project equally on both sides and are at right angles with the
+edges of the base.
+
+The final finish is optional, but if the cradle is to be painted or
+enameled it should first receive a priming coat of flat white. See
+directions for painting in the first part of the book.
+
+
+
+
+DOLL'S BED.
+
+
+The bed illustrated in Plate 40, is suitable for the ordinary size doll,
+16" to 18" in length.
+
+The four legs should first be cut, the two long ones being 7/8" × 7/8" ×
+12" and the two short ones 7/8" × 7/8" × 9-1/4".
+
+These should be planed up square and smooth and the top edges chamfered
+1/16", as shown.
+
+The two side rails are next made 3/8" × 2-1/2" × 20-1/2".
+
+The four cross rails, two on the head board and two on the foot board,
+are made 1/2" × 7/8" × 8-3/4".
+
+Seven slats are next made 3/8" × 1-1/4" × 8".
+
+Two long supporting slats, on which the seven slats previously made
+rest, are now made 3/8" × 1" × 19-1/4".
+
+Three upright slats are now made for the head board, two being 3/8" ×
+1-3/4" × 8", and one 3/8" × 3" × 8". Three similar slats are made for
+the foot board, two 3/8" × 1-3/4" × 5-1/4" and one 3/8" × 3" × 5-1/4".
+
+Seven holes should be carefully bored where the cross rails and legs are
+joined. Use a small drill about 1/8" in diameter.
+
+These holes are 2-1/2" up from the bottom end of the legs and 1" down
+from the top ends. In assembling these parts, use glue, brads and 1-1/2"
+No. 8 round-head screws, as shown on the drawing. Next place the slats,
+as indicated, using glue and 1-1/4" brads. Take pains to space these
+properly and center them on the cross piece. All brad holes, wherever
+placed, should be set with a nail set and the hole filled with hard
+beeswax.
+
+In nailing in the brads, rest the bottom support on the corner of the
+bench, so as not to strain the cross piece or legs in pounding with the
+hammer.
+
+Next attach the long side rails, having their ends come flush with the
+outer side of the leg. Use glue and 1" brads. See that the rails are
+attached square with the long edges of legs. The two shorter supporting
+rails (3/8" × 1" × 19-1/4"), are next nailed to the lower cross pieces
+at the head and foot of the bed, and close up against the long side
+rails. A few brads, 1" long, should be driven through from the side
+rails into these to help secure them in place.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 40._
+
+_DOLL'S BED_]
+
+The seven cross slats are carefully spaced, glued, and nailed in place
+with 1/2" brads. While nailing, place a block of wood beneath the ends
+for a bearing.
+
+All pieces should have been sanded previous to assembling, and the bed
+may now be either stained or painted. If painted, a priming coat should
+be applied first. After this has dried it should be carefully sanded
+with No. 0 sandpaper and the finish coat applied.
+
+Considerable care should be taken in the painting to insure a good,
+clean-cut job. Refer back to the first of the book for necessary
+instructions for painting.
+
+There is an opportunity here for the older sister to help in preparing
+the bedding.
+
+
+
+
+TWO TYPES OF STILTS.
+
+
+(Type A Stilt.)
+
+Most every boy knows there is a certain fascination in walking on
+stilts, but they may prove a dangerous pastime if not strongly made.
+
+In this style of stilt (Type A, Plate 41) the uprights are held beneath
+the arm pits.
+
+The upright pieces should be made 7/8" × 1-3/8" × 5', or as long as the
+boy desires. Hard pine or ash make strong, durable stilts. The edges of
+the upright should be slightly rounded so that they will fit the hand
+nicely.
+
+[Illustration: Two Kinds of Stilts.]
+
+Holes are bored with a 1/4" bit, 17" from the lower end and 2-1/2"
+apart, as shown. The upper hole is countersunk to receive a 2-1/2" No.
+12 flat-head screw.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 41._
+
+_STILTS_]
+
+The foot rests are made 1" × 3-1/2" × 5" and shaped, as indicated on the
+drawing.
+
+They are secured to the uprights with screws and 1/4" × 3" round-head
+stove bolts. Several holes at various heights could be bored to allow of
+adjusting the foot rest to suit the user of the stilt.
+
+The uprights can be painted red and the foot rests green, or the whole
+can be left plain, according to the desires of the maker. A touch of
+paint, however, not only adds to the appearance of any article, but also
+preserves it and lengthens its life.
+
+
+(Type B Stilt.)
+
+Type B stilt (Plate 41) is made shorter than Type A and is to be
+strapped to the leg just above the knee.
+
+The uprights are 1" × 1-3/8" × 36", or longer if desired.
+
+Round the edges of the uprights and bore holes at the same places and of
+the same size as in Type A.
+
+A strap is screwed on, as is shown in the drawing, to support the feet,
+and another strap, long enough to go around the leg beneath the knee, is
+attached at the upper end, 2" from the top.
+
+Sandpaper thoroughly and finish to suit.
+
+A pole about seven feet long should be carried to balance and steady
+oneself.
+
+[Illustration: Two Kinds of Carts and a Dump Wagon (in front).]
+
+
+
+
+CHILD'S CART.
+
+
+Carts always appeal to youngsters and the one given here (Plate 42) is
+of simple construction.
+
+Make the side pieces first 1/2" × 6" × 10". On one long edge measure in
+2-1/2" and from this point draw a line to the upper corner. Cut
+carefully to this line. The front piece is made 1/2" × 6" × 6" and the
+end piece 1/2" × 6" × 6-3/4". This end piece is beveled to conform to
+the top and bottom edges of the cart, as shown in the side view.
+
+The bottom piece is made 1/2" × 6" × 6-1/2".
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 42._
+
+_CHILD'S CART_]
+
+The piece to which the wheels are attached, is made 7/8" × 1" × 7-1/8".
+This piece has two holes bored and countersunk in it for screws, 1-1/4"
+from the ends and half way between the sides.
+
+Two small blocks are made 1/2" × 1" × 2-1/2" and tapered 3/4", as shown.
+These blocks have holes bored and countersunk for screws. Bore the holes
+in such a manner that they will not come directly opposite each other,
+otherwise the screws will be likely to hit each other.
+
+Holes are bored in the front piece of the cart and countersunk on the
+inner side. These pieces are 3" from either side, the first one being
+2-1/4" from the upper edge and the second an inch below the first.
+
+The handle measures 7/8" × 1" × 30". A hole is bored 5/8" from the front
+end with a half-inch bit and the extreme end of the handle is slightly
+chamfered for a finish. The opposite end of the handle is cut at an
+angle of 30°, as shown.
+
+A piece of dowel, 1/2" in diameter and 3" long, is cut and inserted in
+the hole in the handle and secured by driving an inch brad in from the
+under side of the handle.
+
+The wheels are 7/8" × 5" and may be cut out with a turning saw and
+trimmed to the line with a chisel, or, if a lathe is available, they can
+quickly be cut to size. If they are to be sawed out, a circle should be
+struck with a divider or compass set at a 2-1/2" radius and then
+carefully cut to the line.
+
+The axle is attached to the bottom piece with glue and 1-1/4" No. 8
+flat-head screws.
+
+Bore a hole in the end of the axle, exactly in the center, using a drill
+slightly smaller than the screw that is to hold the wheels in position.
+Bore a hole in each wheel, at the center point, a little larger than the
+screw that is to be used. Attach the wheels with 1-1/2" No. 10
+round-head blue screws, using a small washer under the screw head and
+also between the wheel and the cart body. Tighten the screw just enough
+to allow a little play for the wheels to turn easily.
+
+Sand all pieces thoroughly before assembling, using No. 1 sandpaper
+first and finishing with No. 0. Assemble the body part of the cart with
+glue and 1" brads.
+
+A suggested color scheme is given in the drawing.
+
+
+
+
+CHILD'S DUMP WAGON.
+
+
+This toy at once appeals to the children as it only requires a simple
+turn of the crank to quickly dump the load of sand.
+
+Each part of this toy is completely detailed in Plate 44, while Plate 43
+gives the assembly drawing.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 43._
+
+_CHILD'S DUMP WAGON_]
+
+The two sides are first made 1/2" × 5-1/2" × 12", and the two ends 1/2"
+× 6" × 7-1/2". The sides are beveled about 1/8" on the lower edge so
+that they will conform to the angle of the end piece. The ends taper
+from 7-1/2" long at the top to 5-5/8" at the bottom. This angle is
+obtained by measuring in 15/16" from either side and drawing to the
+opposite upper corner. Saw and finish to this line and slightly round
+the upper corners, as shown. Bore a hole with a 1/2" bit at the point
+indicated.
+
+The bottom piece is made 1/2" × 6-5/8" × 12".
+
+Sand these five pieces and assemble, using 1-1/4" brads and glue. Plane
+the side edges of the bottom board to the same angle as the slope of the
+sides.
+
+The two end uprights are now made 1/2" × 6-3/4" × 8". Measure up 2-1/4"
+on the short edges and place a dot. Connect these points with a sloping
+line and saw and finish to the outline shown. Bore holes with a 1/2" bit
+at the place indicated. Locate and bore a screw hole 1/2" up from the
+center of the lower edge to attach brace block.
+
+Make two small supporting blocks 7/8" × 1-3/4" × 1-3/4". Bore a 1/2"
+hole carefully in the center and drill four smaller holes to receive
+1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws, 3/8" from each other, as shown.
+Countersink these four holes.
+
+Glue and screw these blocks to the end of the wagon box, 1-1/4" from the
+top edge, as shown.
+
+Make two brace blocks by first cutting out a square 7/8" × 1" × 1" and
+cutting this in two diagonally from corner to corner. Glue and screw
+these blocks to the end uprights, using 1" No. 6 flat-head screws.
+
+The underbody should next be made 1/2" × 8" × 18-1/2".
+
+Measure in 3-1/4" from each corner on the long edge, and with the
+dividers set at 2-1/4", strike a quarter circle and connect these arcs
+with straight lines, making the width in the middle 4-1/2". Saw this out
+with a coping saw and finish smoothly to the line.
+
+Locate and drill the twelve screw holes shown, with a drill the size of
+a No. 6 screw.
+
+Countersink all holes, except the four holes which hold the supports for
+the cart handle. These four are not countersunk as 1" No. 6 round-head
+screws are used at these points.
+
+Attach the end uprights to the underbody with glue and 1" No. 6
+flat-head screws, eight in all.
+
+Next make the two axles 7/8" × 1" × 8-1/4" and bore and countersink the
+three holes, on the narrow edge, at the points indicated. Glue and screw
+these in place, 1-1/4" from the front and rear ends, using 1-1/4" No. 8
+flat-head screws. These axles project 1/8" beyond the sides of the
+underbody, on all sides, so as to allow the wheels to turn without
+interference.
+
+The wheels may be made on a lathe or with a turning saw, 7/8" thick and
+all exactly 4" in diameter. Bore a hole in their center with a drill a
+little larger than the wire of a 2" No. 10 round-head screw. When
+assembling, use a washer on each side of the wheel.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 44._
+
+_DETAILS OF DUMP WAGON_]
+
+A hole should be started about 3/8" deep in the center of the ends of
+the axle to insure the screws going in properly.
+
+The cart handle is made 1/2" × 1" × 30", with one end rounded and the
+opposite end chamfered 1/8". On the latter end measure in 5/8" on the
+wide side and bore a hole carefully with a 1/2" bit. Cut a piece from a
+1/2" dowel, 3-1/4" long, and insert it in this hole, keeping it in place
+with glue and one 7/8" brad.
+
+Bore a hole 1/2" from the rounded end with a 3/16" bit.
+
+The two pieces which hold the handle are now made 3/4" × 7/8" × 2-3/4".
+A 3/16" hole is bored in the 7/8" edge of these pieces, 1/2" from the
+end. These holes, and the hole in the handle, are to receive a
+round-head stove bolt, which is 3/16" × 2-1/4".
+
+Glue and screw these two pieces in place in the center of the front end
+of the underbody, leaving about 1/16" space between the handle and the
+edges of the blocks for freedom of movement.
+
+The dumping handle is made of pieces of dowel, the main piece being 1"
+in diameter by 4-1/2" long. The other pieces are cut from a half-inch
+dowel, 3" and 3-1/2" long, respectively.
+
+On the main dowel bore holes with a 1/2" bit, 3/4" from the ends, to
+receive the shorter dowels. Glue and insert the 3-1/4" dowel and bore a
+small hole to receive a 7/8" No. 6 round-head screw. Place this screw
+and then insert the dowel through the front upright into the front
+supporting block and flush with the inner surface of the front box end.
+Hold in place in the block with glue and a 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head
+screw.
+
+Glue and screw the 3" dowel in place for the grip.
+
+A piece of 1/2" dowel, 2" long, is similarly placed through the rear
+upright, thence into the rear supporting block and box end.
+
+This is also held with glue and a 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screw through
+the block.
+
+Sand and apply two coats of paint before assembling the wheels and
+handle.
+
+
+
+
+CHILD'S WHEELBARROW.
+
+(Type A.)
+
+
+The Child's Wheelbarrow, shown in Plate 45, is very serviceable and
+quite easy to make, and, if the directions are followed carefully, the
+result will be a toy that will outlast a majority of the toys ordinarily
+found on the store shelves.
+
+First, make the handles 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 30". Chamfer the handles, as
+shown, for four inches from one end.
+
+The two sides are made 1/2" × 5-1/2" × 15" and 1-1/2" is measured in on
+one long edge and a line drawn from this point to the lower corner. Saw
+and plane to this line and round the upper corner with a chisel and
+file.
+
+The end is 3/8" × 5-1/2" × 7-1/4". The bottom is first cut 1/2" × 11" ×
+14". On one end measure in 1-7/8" from one side and a like distance from
+the other side. Connect these points with the opposite extreme corners
+and finish to these lines. The bottom is now tapered to 7-1/4" wide at
+the front end.
+
+Assemble the sides, the bottom and the end with glue and 1-1/2" finish
+nails, setting the front piece back 1/4" from the end of the sides, as
+shown in the drawing. Set all nails below the surface and fill the holes
+with beeswax.
+
+Place the assembled part on the handles in such a manner that the front
+end of the box part of the wheelbarrow is 5" from the front end of the
+handles, and the handles at the front end are 2" apart inside, and at
+the grip end 13" apart outside.
+
+While in this position, which is the permanent assembling position, mark
+the position of the six screw holes, which are bored with a drill of a
+size to receive a 1" No. 6 flat-head screw. Countersink these holes.
+
+The two legs are made 7/8" × 1" × 8-3/4" and beveled 1/4" at the lower
+end. On the upper end a notch is cut out 3/8" deep by 1-1/4" long. Two
+holes are bored, as indicated, to attach the leg to the handle. This is
+done with glue and 1" No. 6 round-head screws.
+
+[Illustration: Wheelbarrows.]
+
+A 1/2" dowel rod runs between the legs to brace them, and a hole is
+bored 3/8" deep in each leg, 2-1/2" from the lower end. The dowel is 9"
+long and is held in place with glue, and a 3/4" brad is driven in the
+leg to hold it firmly in place.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 45._
+
+_CHILD'S WHEELBARROW_ (_TYPE A_)]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 46._
+
+_CHILD'S WHEELBARROW_ (_TYPE B_)]
+
+A hole is bored very carefully 1-1/4" from the front end of the handles
+to receive the wheel axle. It will be noticed, by referring to the top
+view of the drawing, that on account of the taper of the handles this
+hole must be bored slightly on a slant and about half way through. The
+bit should be of a size to allow a piece of sixteen-penny nail to turn
+freely, as the axle should be made of a nail of this size, cut 3" long.
+
+The wheel is best made of hard wood, such as maple, 7/8" thick and 6" in
+diameter.
+
+Bore the hole in the center with the same drill just used.
+
+Next cut two pieces from a 1/2" dowel, 3/8" long, and bore a similar
+hole exactly through their center. These two pieces of dowel are glued
+to the wheel and serve to make it run in the center. When assembling,
+place a small washer between the dowels and handle, as shown.
+
+All pieces should have been carefully sanded before assembling, and the
+wheel should be painted red and allowed to dry before being put in
+place. The remainder of the wheelbarrow should be painted bright green.
+Apply two coats, rubbing down the first coat when dry with No. 0
+sandpaper before applying the second.
+
+
+
+
+CHILD'S WHEELBARROW.
+
+(Type B.)
+
+
+This style wheelbarrow (Plates 46 and 47) is planned exceptionally
+strong and sturdy and will stand a large amount of hard usage. It is
+made larger and stronger than Type A, and is naturally a little more
+difficult to make, but well within the ability of an eighth grade boy.
+This type has removable sideboards.
+
+The plate of details gives exact information how to make each piece, so
+it will not be necessary to give the directions here.
+
+After all pieces are correctly made and all holes are bored at the
+places indicated, each part should be sanded very carefully and made
+ready for assembling.
+
+Care should be taken to get good tight joints on the front brace, the
+wheel supports and the tops of the legs.
+
+The metal braces can be made from strips of zinc 1" × 4", bent over the
+braces W, allowing a little freedom for removing the sideboards. Holes
+should be drilled in these braces, where shown, to receive 1/2" No. 6
+round-head screws.
+
+First attach the bottom boards to the handles with 1" No. 6 flat-head
+screws, placing the ends of the handles even with the front of the
+bottom board and flush with the side edges.
+
+Next fasten the front and rear brace in place with 1-1/2" No. 8
+flat-head screws, on the under side, and with 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head
+screws and washers from the outside of the handle to the brace ends.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 47._
+
+_DETAILS OF TYPE B WHEELBARROW_]
+
+Fasten one wheel brace in its proper place with 1" No. 6 flat-head
+screws from the upper side of the bottom board.
+
+Place the axle of the wheel in the hole and attach the other wheel in
+the same manner.
+
+Glue and screw the front uprights in place, as indicated, with 1" No. 6
+round-head screws, and place the top cross piece on these and hold in
+place with glue and 1" round-head blue screws.
+
+Place the sides in position, with the front ends flush with the outer
+edges of the front braces. Place the metal braces over the supporting
+pieces and screw in place, using 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws.
+
+Braces X, which run from the wheel supports to the front piece of the
+wheelbarrow, are screwed in place, as shown, using 1-1/4" No. 8
+round-head screws.
+
+It will be noticed that the hole for the dowel stick in the leg only
+extends in 3/8". Place one leg in position, 14-1/2" from the ends of the
+handles, using glue and 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws. Insert the
+dowel stick in this leg and also in the second leg and secure the second
+leg in place. The dowel should have glue placed on its ends, and, after
+the legs are in place, an inch brad should be driven into each leg,
+through the dowel, to hold it firmly in place.
+
+The color scheme given in the drawing is a pleasing one. The wheel is
+painted two coats of red before being placed in position.
+
+
+
+
+CLOWN RUNNING WHEEL.
+
+
+This has proven a very popular toy and is not hard to construct.
+
+The legs and body may be made of pulp or Beaver board, a material which
+is very good, as it saws easily and will not split. Wood, however, may
+be used, if preferred.
+
+The details of the body and legs are full size and these may be
+transferred to the wood by the tracing method described at the beginning
+of the book. These pieces, when done, may be painted, if desired, and
+allowed to dry while the rest of the parts are being made. Bore all
+necessary holes shown in the drawing.
+
+The wheels are best turned on a lathe to 4" in diameter and a hole bored
+in the center of each of a size that will allow a 1/4" dowel to fit
+tightly. If no lathe is available, the wheel can be cut out with a
+turning saw and finished with a chisel and file. The wheels are best
+made from 1/4" maple. Two pieces of 3/8" dowel are cut 1/4" long and
+attached 1/2" above the center of the wheel, as shown. This is done on
+both wheels, and the piece is attached with glue and 1/2" brads. It is a
+good plan to bore holes for these brads and thus prevent the possible
+splitting of the wood. The dowel that goes between the wheels is made
+1/4" × 3/4" and is glued securely in the holes in the wheels later.
+Another piece of 1/4" dowel is cut 4" long, and is fitted to support the
+body of the clown on the handle.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 48._
+
+_DETAILS FOR CLOWN RUNNING WHEEL_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 49._
+
+_DETAILS FOR CLOWN RUNNING WHEEL_]
+
+The handle is made 7/8" × 1-1/8" × 30", and the grip is rounded and
+shaped, as shown on Plate 48. In the opposite end of the handle a slot
+is cut 1/16" wide and 1-1/2" long. This is to receive the strip of zinc
+which runs between the wheels. This strip of zinc is made of 1/16"
+material, 1" wide and 4-1/2" long. Triangular pieces are cut from one
+end, 1/4" on a side, as shown on the detail sheet. This strip is held in
+the slot in the handle by first drilling through both the wood and the
+zinc, with a drill the size of a 3/4" brad, and afterwards gluing and
+bradding the zinc into position with 3/4" brads. A hole, 1/4" in
+diameter, is also drilled in the opposite end of the zinc, 5/8" from the
+end and 1/2" from the sides. This goes over the axle of the wheel.
+
+A hole is bored with a 1/4" bit, 2-3/8" from the end of the handle, as
+shown on Plate 48, and at an angle, as indicated.
+
+A similar hole is bored in the seat of the clown. The parts are now
+ready to sandpaper, paint, and after drying, assemble.
+
+[Illustration: Clown Running Wheel.]
+
+[Illustration: Cock Horse.]
+
+The color scheme is given on the drawing. After the paint has dried, the
+lines where the various colors join, should be accented with a pen,
+using India ink.
+
+The upper legs of the clown are attached to the body with 1-1/2" copper
+rivets and the lower legs are held to the upper by 1/2" rivets. When
+putting the rivets in place, hold the end which has the washer against
+some hard, metal body and strike with a hammer, taking care not to get
+the washer so tight that the legs will not move. A 3/4" No. 6 round-head
+screw holds the feet to the projecting dowel on the wheel. It is best to
+bore the hole for the screw in the piece of dowel a little smaller than
+the size of the screw so as to prevent splitting. Glue the supporting
+dowel in both the clown and the handle.
+
+
+
+
+COCK HORSE.
+
+
+The Cock Horse is a modern version of the old hobby horse, and affords
+the children, between the ages of four and six, unlimited pleasure.
+
+The head is made of a piece of 7/8" bass or pine, 5-1/2" wide and 9-1/2"
+long.
+
+The features may be enlarged from the size drawn in Plate 50, by the
+method given at the beginning of the book for enlarging; or, if one is
+apt at free-hand drawing, the outline may be copied offhand.
+
+Cut the features out right to the line with a coping saw and smooth the
+edges and surfaces with No. 1/2 sandpaper.
+
+The stick is made 7/8" × 1" × 32", and the front end is chamfered 1/8".
+
+Holes are bored for 1-1/2" No. 10 flat-head screws, the first 1-3/4"
+from the front end and the other two 1-1/2" apart.
+
+Two smaller pieces, which are made 5/8" × 7/8" × 7-1/2", are to hold the
+wheel in position. Holes are bored in these two pieces to take 1-1/4"
+No. 8 round-head screws, the first one being 7/8" from the end and the
+next two 3/4" apart.
+
+On this same end a piece is cut off at an angle, as shown.
+
+A hole is bored at the opposite end of these two pieces to receive a
+2-1/2" × 1/4" round-head stove bolt, on which the wheel turns.
+
+The wheel is made 7/8" thick and 6" in diameter, either on a lathe or
+with a coping saw. A hole is bored in the center a little larger than
+the 1/4" × 2-1/2" stove bolt, so that the wheel will turn easily upon
+it.
+
+Glue and screw the two side pieces to the long stick, using 1-1/4"
+round-head blue screws. Give these two coats of natural varnish.
+
+Paint the wheel two coats of bright red.
+
+Paint the head one coat of flat white, and after drying give one or two
+coats of white enamel. After this has dried thoroughly, paint the comb
+and wattles bright red. Paint the beak and outer circle of the eyes
+yellow, and the feathers about the neck black. Where the colors join,
+outline with a drafting pen and India ink.
+
+A hole is bored, in the head where shown, to receive a piece of 3/4"
+dowel, 6" long. This serves as a handle. Glue this handle in place,
+taking care that it projects equally on both sides.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 50._
+
+_COCK HORSE_]
+
+
+
+
+ROCKING ROOSTER.
+
+
+This very interesting action toy is especially suitable for children as
+young as two years of age. It is simple in construction and perfectly
+safe. (Plate 51.)
+
+The seat board is made 7/8" × 5" × 21". Measure 6" in from one end on
+both long edges, and at these points narrow the front end to 3-1/2" wide
+by sawing out a piece on both sides 1-1/4" wide.
+
+Round the corners where the taper comes, also the other four corners of
+the top. Similarly, round the upper edge of the top.
+
+The two rockers are made 7/8" × 4-1/2" × 18". Measure down 1/4" on the
+two ends, and from these points carefully sketch a free-hand curve with
+its highest point directly in the center of the lower edge. Be sure this
+curve balances equally and that the two rockers are exactly alike.
+
+The rooster's head is made 7/8" × 6" × 10-1/4" and the outline is
+sketched upon it similar to the one shown on the drawing.
+
+Cut out the features with a coping saw, taking pains to have the saw at
+right angles to the surface of the wood at all times.
+
+A hole is bored in the head, for the handle, about 3-3/4" from the top
+and 1-1/2" from the rear edge. A 3/4" bit is used.
+
+[Illustration: The Rocking Rooster is safe as well as interesting.]
+
+Be sure and bore this hole perfectly straight.
+
+The handle is made 6" long and 3/4" in diameter, shaping it as shown in
+the front view. If this cannot be turned on a lathe, the handle may be
+made from a 6" piece of 3/4" dowel, rounding the ends slightly with a
+file.
+
+Holes are now bored for the 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screws which hold the
+rockers and head to the top. The locations of these holes are clearly
+shown in the drawing. Countersink the holes on the side from which the
+screws enter.
+
+The little separating block, which goes between the rockers, is made
+7/8" × 1" × 2-1/2", and is held in place with glue.
+
+Sand all pieces thoroughly.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 51._
+
+_ROCKING ROOSTER_]
+
+Assemble all pieces carefully, seeing that the rooster's head is
+centered well and placed two inches from the front end.
+
+The rockers are attached 1-1/2" from the ends and so placed that they
+are just an inch apart.
+
+Paint the whole toy one coat of flat white and sand lightly with No. 0
+sandpaper when dry. Paint in the comb and wattles of the rooster bright
+red and the feathers on the neck, green.
+
+After these colors have dried, apply another coat of white, where
+indicated, this time using white enamel. Use a small brush for the
+details. The beak and the circle about the eye are painted yellow and
+the other circle about the eye is painted black.
+
+If the paint does not seem to have the proper sparkle when the last coat
+is dry, apply another coat of each color. Outline the edge of the comb
+and wattles with a drafting pen and India ink. Outline also, the beak
+and eyes. This causes a sharp contrast where the two colors meet and
+sets off the features.
+
+The top and rockers are treated with two coats of white enamel on top of
+the priming coat.
+
+
+
+
+KIDDIE KAR.
+
+
+It is hardly necessary to speak of the popularity of this toy. Its
+construction is well within the ability of the average eighth grade boy.
+
+The seat board (Plate 52) is made of 7/8" stock and is first cut 7-1/2"
+wide and 21-1/2" long. Half the outline of the curve at the front should
+be traced on a folded piece of paper, the proper size, and cut out and
+traced on the wood. This outline should now be carefully sawed and
+chiseled to the correct shape.
+
+[Illustration: Kiddie Kars.]
+
+The top edge of the seat should be rounded.
+
+The rear support should have half its outline traced on a folded piece
+of paper and cut out and traced on a piece of wood 7/8" × 5" × 6-1/2".
+Finish to the line.
+
+The brace is cut 7/8" × 5" × 9-1/2".
+
+Mark out the outline of the curves, as shown, and saw and chisel to the
+line. The wheels and steering gear should be turned on a lathe to the
+dimensions shown on the drawing.
+
+A hole is bored in the seat board, 1-3/4" from the front end and half
+way between the sides, with a 15/16" bit. This is to allow the steering
+post, which is turned to 7/8" diameter, freedom to turn.
+
+Holes are drilled through the under part of the rear brace, as shown, to
+secure the same to the top. Holes are likewise bored half way between
+the sides of this brace, to engage with the curved supporting piece.
+
+The curved supporting piece has two holes bored 1-1/4" from the small
+end, 1" apart. This is for the screws that go into the top.
+
+Holes, bored with a small bit, should be started in the lower part of
+the rear brace, to receive the large screws which hold the rear wheels
+in place. It is quite necessary to make these holes, using a bit a
+trifle smaller than the screw to be used, as it is very difficult to
+force a screw of this size into wood of this hardness. These holes must
+be bored exactly straight, otherwise the wheels will turn unevenly.
+
+Washers should be used between the screw heads and the wheels and
+between the wheels and any part they are likely to come in contact with.
+
+A hole is bored in the steering rod, directly below the top board, for a
+screw to be placed to hold the upper and lower part of the steering rod
+firm. Glue is also used when assembling the two parts of the steering
+apparatus. The handle is also held in place with a screw and glue, as
+shown. A hole is bored in the handle, of a size suitable to receive the
+steering rod.
+
+Washers should be placed in the steering gear, above and below the seat
+board, to prevent wear.
+
+In preparing the slot to receive the front wheel, a hole should first be
+bored with an inch bit so that the top edge of the slot comes 3-5/8"
+from the bottom of the steering gear.
+
+This slot should be very carefully sawed out and smoothed up so that the
+wheel, which is 7/8" thick, will turn accurately.
+
+The holes in all the wheels must center accurately and be larger than
+the screw or bolt which goes through them. The front wheel turns on a
+1/4" × 1-3/4" round-head stove bolt.
+
+The color scheme may be varied to suit individual tastes.
+
+The one suggested in the drawing has red wheels with the remaining parts
+of the kiddie kar finished natural with spar varnish.
+
+All parts should be thoroughly sanded before assembling. Two coats of
+paint should be applied to the wheels and two coats of varnish to the
+remainder.
+
+Sand in between coats with No. 0 sandpaper.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 52._
+
+_KIDDIE KAR_]
+
+
+
+
+KIDDIE KOASTER.
+
+
+This lively toy is somewhat different from the three-wheeled Kiddie Kar
+and is suited for children of eight or over.
+
+If desired, this toy may be made up with three wheels like a velocipede.
+
+If this type is made, a piece of dowel rod, of hard wood, is cut about
+six or eight inches long and an inch in diameter. This dowel should go
+through a hole in the rear brace, and the wheels should be attached to
+the ends with 2" No. 12 round-head screws and washers.
+
+The following directions are for the two-wheel Kiddie Koaster shown in
+Plate 53.
+
+The front supporting piece is first made of a piece of hard wood, 2" ×
+2-1/4" × 19". A distance of 7" is measured up from the lower end and
+7/8" is measured beyond this. From this point the remainder of the brace
+is thinned to one inch in thickness. The top end is rounded and the
+bottom end chamfered, as shown.
+
+A hole is carefully bored with an inch bit, 5-3/4" from the lower end.
+An allowance of 1/2" is made for the thickness of each fork and the
+remaining inch is removed with a saw up to the hole previously bored.
+
+A hole is bored for the handle, 1-1/4" from the top, with a 7/8" bit.
+Another hole is bored on each side, 6-1/4" from the lower end with a
+3/4" bit, 1/2" deep.
+
+[Illustration: The Kiddie Koaster.]
+
+These two holes are for the foot rests. Small holes are bored one inch
+from the lower end to receive a 1/4" × 2-1/2" round-head stove bolt. A
+1/4" bit should be used to bore these.
+
+The rear support is made 2" × 2-1/4" × 16-3/4". From a point 6-1/2" from
+the lower end this is thinned down to one inch thick, the same way as
+the front support. At the upper end measure down on one edge 7/8" and
+draw to the opposite corner.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 53._
+
+_KIDDIE KOASTER_]
+
+Cut off at this angle so that it will come on a line with the cross
+piece. A hole is bored with a 1/4" bit, one inch from the lower end to
+take a 1/4" x 2-1/2" round-head stove bolt.
+
+Chamfer 3/8" from the lower end.
+
+Bore a hole 4-3/4" from the lower end with an inch bit and remove the
+wood to form the rear fork, in the same manner as was done for the
+front.
+
+The cross piece between the front and rear support, on which the seat
+rests, is first made 7/8" x 5" x 13-1/8".
+
+Measure in two inches from the upper corner and draw a line to the lower
+corner. Saw squarely on this line to get the proper slant. Measure from
+this upper left-hand corner 9-1/2" and draw a line from here to the
+lower right-hand corner. Saw to this line. On this last end sawed,
+measure in 3/4" and make a tenon, as indicated in the side view. This
+tenon should be 1/2" thick. The other dimensions for the tenon are given
+on the drawing.
+
+On the rear support a mortise is now cut of a size to receive the tenon
+tightly, and to make the top edge of the cross piece and upper end of
+the rear support on a line.
+
+This tenon should be cut with a 1/2" bit, boring so as to make the
+mortise about 13/16" deep. Remove the extra wood with a small chisel
+until the tenon fits snugly within the mortise.
+
+Later, when assembling, this joint is glued and 3/4" brads are driven in
+from the side to pin it in place, as indicated.
+
+The seat is made 3/4" × 5" × 7". It is shaped, as shown in the sketch,
+cutting the outline with a turning saw and finishing to the line with a
+chisel and file. Two holes are bored and countersunk to receive 1-1/4"
+No. 8 flat-head screws which hold the seat in place.
+
+The seat is stuffed with tow, excelsior or other suitable material and
+covered with brown burlap or with imitation leather, as desired. A piece
+of braid, to match the material used, is tacked around the lower edge
+with upholstery tacks to match.
+
+The handles and foot rests are best turned out on a lathe, although they
+may be whittled out with a jack-knife. The dimensions for these are
+clearly shown.
+
+The front wheel is 9-1/2" in diameter, made from wood 3/4" thick. The
+rear wheel is 8" in diameter, the wood being 3/4" stock.
+
+These wheels should be made of hard wood or wood glued up three-ply.
+These are best turned on a lathe, although they may be cut with a
+turning saw and chiseled to the line and finished with a file.
+
+A special hinge may be obtained from most any toy manufacturing firm,
+to place between the front support and the cross-piece. In the author's
+classes, hinges of this special type were obtained in various sizes,
+without any trouble. The size indicated in the drawing is five inches
+long and costs fourteen cents.
+
+If these special hinges are not used, the ordinary butt hinges may be
+substituted, two being used.
+
+A groove of the proper length and depth, to fit these hinges, can be
+drilled and chiseled out in the front brace. A saw cut can be made in
+the cross piece, across the end, in which to insert the hinge. When
+assembled, screws should be placed so as to accurately engage with the
+screw holes in the hinges.
+
+Before assembling, all pieces should be thoroughly sanded and painted
+two coats.
+
+A suggested color scheme is given on the drawing.
+
+
+
+
+SKI SKOOTER.
+
+
+The Ski Skooter, shown on Plate 54, is best made of ash.
+
+The runner is first made 5/8" × 3-3/8" × 39" and thinned down, for ten
+inches from the front end, to 3/8" thick.
+
+The runner is steamed, bent and grooved by the method shown in Plate 55.
+
+The upright piece is made 7/8" × 3-1/8" × 16-1/8" and one of the bracing
+pieces 7/8" × 1-3/8" × 12" and the other 7/8" × 1-3/8" × 13". These are
+cut at an angle of 45 degrees at each end, as shown.
+
+[Illustration: The Ski Skooter is great sport on a moderate hill.]
+
+The seat is made 7/8" × 6" × 12", and the top edges are slightly
+rounded.
+
+Two grips, which also have their lower edges rounded, are made 3/4" ×
+7/8" × 5".
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 54._
+
+_SKI SKOOTER_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 55._
+
+_METHOD OF BENDING RUNNERS_]
+
+Two strengthening pieces are made 7/8" × 7/8" × 3-1/8" and their ends
+are cut at 45 degrees, as shown. These are attached to the upright
+directly under the seat.
+
+Bore all holes, where shown in the drawing, and countersink them.
+Assemble with glue and screws of a size shown on the drawing.
+
+The color scheme is given on the drawing, but may be changed to suit
+individual tastes. Two coats of paint are applied, sanding carefully
+between coats.
+
+The seat can be upholstered if desired.
+
+
+
+
+METHOD OF BENDING RUNNERS.
+
+
+Place the ends in a washboiler, about half full of boiling water, and
+allow them to remain about five hours.
+
+Place the tip, or front end of the runners, under the back edge of the
+top step of a step ladder. Slowly bend the runner downward until it lays
+flat on the front edges of the other steps.
+
+Secure this in place either with clamps or by pieces of rope and wood.
+Plate 55 shows two methods of bending the runners. Regular skis may be
+bent in the same manner.
+
+Leave the runners in the clamps overnight.
+
+
+
+
+SKI SKIPPERS.
+
+
+The Ski Skipper affords a lively form of winter amusement, and great
+speed can be obtained on the surface of the snow, especially when the
+crust is covered with a small amount of light snow.
+
+[Illustration: The Ski Skipper will please boys as well as girls.]
+
+The runners are best made of white ash, from half-inch material, 2-3/4"
+wide and 42" long. (Plate 56.)
+
+The front end of the runners is tapered, starting about five inches from
+the end. The extreme tips are blunt, being 1/2" wide.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 56._
+
+_SKI SKIPPER_]
+
+Starting about twelve inches from the front end, the runners are thinned
+down with a plane, on the upper surface, to 3/8" thick.
+
+Both runners have a groove cut along their counters from the rear end to
+the point where they curve upward.
+
+This groove is 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide, and may be cut by various
+methods. It may be cut with a grooving plane; it may be scored with a
+sharp-pointed gauge and the inner part removed with a chisel; or, if a
+power saw is available, it may be easily cut with a dado saw.
+
+The upper edge of the runners may be chamfered about 1/8" for a finish.
+When the foregoing operations are completed, the runners should be bent,
+using the method shown in Plate 55.
+
+The slats forming the seat top are now made 1/2" × 2-1/2" × 12", and the
+single slat for the foot rest 1/2" × 1-1/2" × 12".
+
+The seat slats have holes bored and countersunk 3/4" from the edges and
+1-1/4" from the ends, to receive 1" No. 8 flat-head screws. The foot
+slat has a similar hole bored 1-1/4" from the ends and centered between
+the edges.
+
+The seat supports are first cut 7/8" × 7-1/2" × 9-1/2" and then an inch
+is measured in on the top edge on each side and lines are drawn to the
+lower corners, as shown. Saw and plane to this line, making the taper as
+shown in the side view. The cross brace is made 7/8" × 3" × 9".
+
+The supports for the foot rests are first made 7/8" × 3" × 3-1/2". On
+the upper edge, which is 3-1/2" long, measure in 3/8" from each end and
+draw the sloping lines to the lower corners, making the taper, as
+indicated. Round these upper corners.
+
+Bore holes in the runners for attaching the uprights at places where
+they will engage with the uprights, at points shown on the drawing.
+There should be three screws in each large upright and two in the
+smaller front support. Assemble with glue and 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head
+screws at all places except where the cross slats are held. At these
+points 1" No. 8 flat-head screws will be long enough.
+
+It will be noticed, in examining the top and front views, that the
+supporting uprights are not placed directly half way between the edges
+of the skis, but are offset so that they come nearer the outside edge of
+the runner. This is done so that the screw will not come in the groove.
+
+Two blocks of wood to hold the screw eyes, to which the rope is
+attached, are made from 1/2" material, 1-1/2" square.
+
+Two holes are bored in these blocks, as shown, and they are attached
+eight inches from the front end of the runner with 3/4" No. 6 round-head
+screws. A screw eye is placed in each block, of a size sufficient to
+receive a 3/8" rope.
+
+It is best to bore the hole for the screw eye first, in order to prevent
+splitting the block.
+
+A suggested color scheme is shown in the drawing. Two coats of paint
+should be applied.
+
+
+
+
+DOLL SLEIGH.
+
+
+While this drawing (Plate 57), to all intents and purposes details a
+doll sleigh, yet by increasing the dimensions slightly the sleigh will
+be suitable for a small child.
+
+First, make the runners of 1/2" spruce, or other suitable wood, cutting
+them 9" wide by 26" long.
+
+On the upper edge measure back 1-1/2" and from this point draw to the
+corner of the lower edge. Saw to this line and slightly round the
+corners, as shown. With the dividers set at a radius of 4-1/2", strike a
+circle very lightly on the opposite end of the runners, so that it will
+be just tangent to the edges and end of the board. Measure up from the
+lower edge of the runner 7-1/2" and draw a line parallel to it until it
+strikes the circle. Cut to this line and also saw to the curve of the
+circle, forming the outline of the runner. Finish to the line with a
+chisel and file. See that the two runners are exact duplicates. Bevel
+slightly on the top edge to allow the runners to flare.
+
+[Illustration: The Doll Sleigh may be made larger to carry a baby
+brother or sister.]
+
+Next make the sleigh bottom 1/2" × 10" × 16-1/2". Two braces, to go
+below the sleigh bottom, are made 1/2" × 3" × 8-1/2".
+
+These braces are cut at an angle at each end, as shown. The angle is
+obtained by measuring in 3/8" on one edge and drawing to the opposite
+lower corner from this point and sawing to the line.
+
+The sides of the sleigh are made 1/2" × 8" × 22". On the top edge
+measure in 7-3/4" and place a dot. Measure down from the right-hand
+lower corner of the sides 4-1/2" and from this point, draw to the
+right-hand upper corner.
+
+From the left-hand lower corner measure in 1-3/4" and place a dot. From
+the same corner measure up on the left-hand edge six inches and make
+another dot. Connect these two dots to form the slope of the front end.
+From the last dot placed, square a line in from the left-hand edge
+1-3/4" long. From this point sketch a free-hand curve, as is shown in
+the side view of the sleigh (Plate 57) to the point first located on the
+upper edge. Cut to the outline, being sure both sides match.
+
+The front edge of the sleigh is made 1/2" × 6" × 11" and the rear end
+1/2" × 9" × 11-1/2". On the lower edge of the rear end measure in 1-5/8"
+from each corner and draw to the upper opposite corners. Saw and plane
+to these lines. This will give the taper of the rear end.
+
+Place the board from which the front is to be cut on the backboard and
+trace the slope of the sides and carefully finish to the line.
+
+The two handles are made 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 23-1/2", and the top piece, or
+grip, 1" × 1-1/4" × 19".
+
+The uprights are mortised into the grips 5/8", as shown on the drawing.
+
+Holes are bored in the center of the curve of the runners with a
+medium-size drill, and at these points an inch dowel is cut long enough
+to fit snugly between the runners, after the sleigh is assembled. The
+ends of the dowel are cut at a slope to conform to the pitch of the
+runners. This dowel is held with glue and 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head
+screws.
+
+Holes are bored, where indicated in the side view (Plate 57), to hold
+the brace in place. Holes are also bored in the handles to attach to the
+body of sleigh at places most convenient.
+
+Holes are bored in the sleigh bottom to attach the same to the cross
+braces, using 1" No. 6 flat-head screws. Use 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head
+screws on the outside of the runners. The handles are attached with
+3/16" × 1-1/2" round-head stove bolts. All other parts should be secured
+with glue and three-penny fine finish nails.
+
+If desired the bottom of the runners may be covered with 1/2" strap
+iron.
+
+Various finishes may be used after the parts are thoroughly sanded. If
+stain is to be the finish, apply it according to the directions in the
+front of the book and, after drying eight or ten hours, apply two coats
+of shellac. Sand between coats with No. 0 sandpaper. After the last coat
+of shellac is dry apply one coat of spar varnish.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 57._
+
+_DOLL'S SLEIGH_]
+
+If paint is to be used as the finishing material, decide on the color
+scheme and apply first a priming coat of flat white, after which one or
+two finish coats may be applied when dry, sanding lightly between each
+coat.
+
+
+
+
+CHILD'S TABLE.
+
+
+This is a very useful and practical problem and has been made up in
+large numbers by seventh and eighth grade boys.
+
+The chair shown in Plate 59 fits compactly under the table and takes up
+but little room.
+
+The top is joined by gluing several boards together and finishes 30" in
+diameter. Basswood, 7/8" thick, is very good material to use. The boards
+must be carefully jointed and held together with 1/2" dowels. Hot glue
+is the best to use, although the cold glue will answer. Leave the pieces
+in the clamps overnight. The top may be cut to shape with a turning saw
+and finished to the line with a sharp chisel and file.
+
+The four legs are 7/8" × 1-3/8" × 20-3/8". Two cleats, which are screwed
+to the underside of the table, are next made, these being 7/8" × 3" ×
+24".
+
+These cross each other in the middle with a middle lap joint, as
+indicated at A, on the drawing. A notch is cut on the ends of these
+braces at C, as shown, to receive the legs.
+
+The legs are held in place with glue and 1-3/4" No. 10 round-head blue
+screws.
+
+[Illustration: Children's Table and Chairs.]
+
+The braces are attached to the top of the table with a sufficient number
+of 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws to insure a strong job.
+
+The legs are notched 3/8" deep, 7" up from the bottom, to receive the
+lower leg braces. See sketch B, Plate 58. These lower braces are 3/4" ×
+1-3/8" × 23", joined at their center with a middle lap joint, the same
+as the top braces, and are held in the notch in the legs with glue and
+1-1/2" round-head screws.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 58._
+
+_CHILD'S TABLE_]
+
+All parts should be carefully sandpapered, first with No. 1 sandpaper
+and then finished with No. 0.
+
+The final finish is optional. It may be stained and varnished or it may
+be finished in enamel.
+
+If enamel is used there should first be a couple of coats of flat white
+applied, each coat being sanded when dry, with No. 0 sandpaper, and the
+final coat of enamel applied.
+
+Some appropriate design, in a grayed color, may be put on with stencil
+if desired.
+
+
+
+
+CHILD'S CHAIR.
+
+
+Plate 59 gives directions for making the chairs to match the table in
+Plate 58.
+
+The rear legs should first be cut out of 7/8" stock, 1-1/8" wide and 25"
+long. The two connecting rails are 1-1/8" × 9-5/8". The lower rail is
+notched into both front and rear legs, 6" from the lower ends, 3/8"
+deep.
+
+The upper rail, on which the seat rests, is notched in 3/8" deep, and 4"
+above the lower rail. The pieces so far completed may now be sanded and
+assembled, using glue and 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head screws.
+
+It is well to reinforce the joints by driving an eight-penny finish nail
+each side of the screws. These should be set below the surface, and the
+hole should be filled with hard beeswax before painting.
+
+While this is drying, the front and rear rails can be made.
+
+These rails, five in number, are all 7/8" × 1-1/8" × 8-1/4".
+
+The wide back rail is made of 1/2" material, 4-1/2" wide by 8-1/4" long.
+
+Holes should next be bored for the various screws, where indicated on
+the drawing.
+
+A cross cleat, which runs between the upper side rails and helps support
+the seat, is made 7/8" × 3" × 8-1/4". This is attached, as shown in the
+sketch of the joinery of the legs and rails, and is screwed to the under
+side of the seat with 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws.
+
+The seat is made 7/8" × 10" × 11-1/2" and is notched at the corners to
+receive the rear legs. The top is rounded slightly on its rear edges.
+
+Next assemble the two sides with glue and screws of proper size, as
+shown. All surfaces should be carefully sanded and the finish should be
+treated as described for the table.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 59._
+
+_CHILD'S CHAIR_ (_To match table on preceding plate_)]
+
+
+
+
+  INDEX
+
+
+  Adapting the Problem to the Boy's Ability, 15
+
+
+  Bean Bag Game, 72-4
+
+  Bench Hook, 22-4
+
+
+  Camel, 38
+
+  Child's Cart, 93-5;
+    Chair, 130-1;
+    Dump Wagon, 95-9;
+    Snow Shovel, 46-7;
+    Step Ladder, 59-63;
+    Table, 128-30;
+    Wash Bench, 57-9;
+    Wheelbarrow (Type A), 99-103, (Type B), 102-5
+
+  Clown Running Wheel, 105-9
+
+  Cock Horse, 109-10
+
+  Colonial Doll's Chair, 66-7;
+    Cradle, 87-9;
+    Table, 64-6
+
+  Coping Saw Work, 26-7
+
+
+  Darts, 75-7
+
+  Dart Board Game, 74-6
+
+  Dippy Duck, 40-1
+
+  Doll's Bed, 89-91;
+    Clothes Rack, 55-7;
+    Cradle, 84-7;
+    Ironing Board (Size A), 49-51, (Size B), 51-3, (Size C), 53-5;
+    Sleigh, 125-8;
+    Table with Drawer, 62-4
+
+  Dowel Sticks, 27
+
+  Duck, 30
+
+
+  Elephant, 33
+
+  Equipment, 13-4
+
+
+  Finish and Color, 15-7
+
+  Five Post Ring Toss, 68-72
+
+
+  Goat, 36
+
+  Goose, 31
+
+
+  History of Toy-Making, 11-3
+
+
+  Kiddie Kar, 113-15;
+    Koaster, 116-19
+
+
+  Lamb, 35
+
+  Laying Out Work, 14
+
+
+  Merrimac, 44-5
+
+  Method of Bending Runners, 121-2;
+    of Enlarging Figures, 39-40;
+    of Jointing Wood, 18-20
+
+  Monitor, 42-3
+
+
+  Pelican, 29
+
+  Periscope, 47-8
+
+  Picture Puzzle Construction, 27-8
+
+
+  Rabbit, 34
+
+  Rhinoceros, 32
+
+  Ring-The-Hook Game, 68-9
+
+  Rocking Rooster, 111-13
+
+  Rooster, 37
+
+
+  Sand or Water Mill, 82-4
+
+  Simple Tool Sharpening, 24-6
+
+  Ski Skippers, 122-5
+
+  Ski Skooter, 119-22
+
+  Staining, 17-8
+
+  Support to be Held in Vise, 20-2;
+    for Holding Coping Saw Work, 20;
+    for Table Use, 22
+
+
+  Transferring a Design, 14-5
+
+  Two Types of Stilts, 91-3
+
+
+  Wind Mill, 77-80; (Type B) 80-2
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note.
+
+The equals sign has been used to show 'bold' in this etext.
+
+A few minor typographical errors were amended.
+
+"heighth" changed to "height".
+
+"Sonnenburg" changed to "Sonnenberg"
+
+Title of Plate illustrations were taken from drawings with inconsistent
+punctuation and this was systematised.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Toy Craft, by Leon H. Baxter
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44501 ***
diff --git a/44501-h/44501-h.htm b/44501-h/44501-h.htm
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..80d7f5b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/44501-h.htm
@@ -0,0 +1,4276 @@
+<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN"
+    "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd">
+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en">
+  <head>
+    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" />
+    <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" />
+    <title>
+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of Toy Craft, by Leon H. Baxter.
+    </title>
+<link rel = "coverpage" href = "images/cover.jpg" />
+    <style type="text/css">
+
+body {
+    margin-left: 10%;
+    margin-right: 10%;
+}
+
+    h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {
+    text-align: center; /* all headings centered */
+    clear: both;
+}
+
+    div.home {
+    text-align: right;
+}
+
+p {
+    margin-top: .51em;
+    text-align: justify;
+    margin-bottom: .49em;
+}
+
+.p2       {margin-top: 2em;}
+.p4       {margin-top: 4em;}
+.p6       {margin-top: 6em;}
+.ph1, .ph2, .ph3, .ph4 { text-align: center; text-indent: 0em; font-weight: bold; }
+.ph1 { font-size: xx-large; margin: .67em auto; }
+.ph2 { font-size: x-large; margin: .75em auto; }
+.ph3 { font-size: large; margin: .83em auto; }
+.ph4 { font-size: medium; margin: 1.12em auto; }
+
+
+hr {
+    width: 33%;
+    margin-top: 2em;
+    margin-bottom: 2em;
+    margin-left: 33.5%;
+    margin-right: 33.5%;
+    clear: both;
+}
+
+hr.tb   {width: 45%;margin-left:27.5%; margin-right:27.5%;}
+hr.chap {width: 65%;margin-left:17.5%; margin-right:17.5%;}
+hr.full {width: 95%;margin-left:2.5%; margin-right:2.5%;}
+
+hr.r5  {width: 5%; margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em;margin-left:47.5%; margin-right:47.5%;}
+hr.r65 {width: 65%; margin-top: 3em; margin-bottom: 3em;margin-left:17.5%; margin-right:17.5%;}
+
+ul.index { list-style-type: none; }
+li.ifrst { margin-top: 1em; }
+li.indx { margin-top: .5em; }
+li.isub1 {text-indent: 1em;}
+li.isub2 {text-indent: 2em;}
+li.isub3 {text-indent: 3em;}
+
+table {
+    margin-left: auto;
+    margin-right: auto;
+}
+
+    .tdl      {text-align: left;}
+    .tdr      {text-align: right;}
+    .tdc      {text-align: center;}
+
+.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */
+    /*  visibility: hidden;  */
+    position: absolute;
+    left: 92%;
+    font-size: smaller;
+    text-align: right;
+} /* page numbers */
+
+.linenum {
+    position: absolute;
+    top: auto;
+    left: 4%;
+} /* poetry number */
+
+.blockquot {
+    margin-left: 5%;
+    margin-right: 10%;
+}
+
+.sidenote {
+    width: 20%;
+    padding-bottom: .5em;
+    padding-top: .5em;
+    padding-left: .5em;
+    padding-right: .5em;
+    margin-left: 1em;
+    float: right;
+    clear: right;
+    margin-top: 1em;
+    font-size: smaller;
+    color: black;
+    background: #eeeeee;
+    border: dashed 1px;
+}
+
+.bb       {border-bottom: solid 2px;}
+
+.bl       {border-left: solid 2px;}
+
+.bt       {border-top: solid 2px;}
+
+.br       {border-right: solid 2px;}
+
+.bbox     {border: solid 2px;}
+
+.center   {text-align: center;}
+
+.right   {text-align: right;}
+
+.smcap    {font-variant: small-caps;}
+
+.u        {text-decoration: underline;}
+
+.gesperrt
+{
+    letter-spacing: 0.2em;
+    margin-right: -0.2em;
+}
+
+em.gesperrt
+{
+    font-style: normal;
+}
+
+.caption  {text-align:center;
+           text-indent:0;
+           margin: 0.25em 0;
+           font-size: 1.25em;
+           font-weight: bold;}
+
+/* Images */
+.figcenter   {
+    margin: auto;
+    text-align: center;
+}
+
+.figleft {
+    float: left;
+    clear: left;
+    margin-left: 0;
+    margin-bottom: 1em;
+    margin-top: 1em;
+    margin-right: 1em;
+    padding: 0;
+    text-align: center;
+}
+
+.figright {
+    float: right;
+    clear: right;
+    margin-left: 1em;
+    margin-bottom:
+    1em;
+    margin-top: 1em;
+    margin-right: 0;
+    padding: 0;
+    text-align: center;
+}
+
+/* Footnotes */
+.footnotes        {border: dashed 1px;}
+
+.footnote         {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;}
+
+.footnote .label  {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;}
+
+.fnanchor {
+    vertical-align: super;
+    font-size: .8em;
+    text-decoration:
+    none;
+}
+
+/* Poetry */
+.poem {
+    margin-left:10%;
+    margin-right:10%;
+    text-align: left;
+}
+
+.poem br {display: none;}
+
+.poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;}
+
+/* Transcriber's notes */
+.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA;
+    color: black;
+     font-size:smaller;
+     padding:0.5em;
+     margin-bottom:5em;
+     font-family:sans-serif, serif; }
+    </style>
+  </head>
+<body>
+<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44501 ***</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="ph2">TOY CRAFT<br /><br /></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a><br /><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span></p>
+
+<h1>TOY CRAFT<br /><br /></h1>
+<p class="ph2">LEON H. BAXTER</p>
+<p class="ph3">Director of Manual Training, Public Schools</p>
+<p class="ph3">ST. JOHNSBURY, VT.</p>
+<p><br /></p>
+<p class="ph4">Author of Boy Bird House Architecture, and Elementary Concrete Construction<br /><br /></p>
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_004m.jpg" width = "118" height = "174" alt = "Printer's Logo"/></div>
+
+<p class="ph2"><br /><br />THE BRUCE PUBLISHING COMPANY</p>
+<p class="ph3">MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN<br /></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span></p>
+<p class="ph4"><br />Copyright 1922</p>
+<p class="ph4">The Bruce Publishing Company</p>
+<p class="ph4">Printed in the United States of America</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="INTRODUCTORY_NOTES" id="INTRODUCTORY_NOTES">INTRODUCTORY NOTES</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>The purpose of such a book as Mr. Baxter's "Toy Craft" is to furnish
+definite instructions for the making of toys for boys and girls by the
+children themselves. Miniature furniture, wooden dolls, carts and
+animals&mdash;of how much greater value is one such plaything actually put
+together by a child than any number of toys made in a factory or
+imported from some foreign country? Truly a step forward has been taken
+in putting before the people a book which will unconsciously instill in
+the minds of the children the value of the hand-made in preference to
+the machine-made article.</p>
+
+<p>Not only is Mr. Baxter peculiarly fitted to publish such a volume as
+"Toy Craft" in the light of his knowledge of manual training, but also
+because of his understanding of the spirit behind the production of
+toys, which bring such joy to the hearts of boys and girls.</p>
+
+<p>To the satisfaction of actually making some wooden cart, or bird, or
+animal may be added the happiness of doing the work for some other
+child. It is this vision of service for others which Mr. Baxter has
+already caught and demonstrated, and we feel sure that this little
+volume will do much to promote the improved individual construction of
+toys by children, at the same time instilling into the hearts of the
+boys the joy of making something for somebody else, of experiencing the
+truth, "It is more blessed to give than to receive."</p>
+
+<p class = "right">
+MABEL E. TURNER,<br />
+Field Representative for Junior Service,<br />
+New England Division, American Red Cross.<br />
+</p>
+
+<hr class="tb" />
+
+<p>One of the hard problems in manual training, for boys up to twelve years
+of age, is to find worth-while things to make, within the capacity of
+boys of this age. Having been engaged in this kind of work for over
+twenty years I can appreciate the problems of the manual training
+instructor in the grades.</p>
+
+<p>After carefully examining the cuts and directions for the various
+projects as given in "Toy Craft," and having seen the boys at work, as
+well as the completed articles, in Mr. Baxter's department, I can
+readily see how the great interest that is inspired in the boys is
+derived.</p>
+
+<p>I heartily commend this book to all manual training teachers as a great
+help in the solution of their problems with boys.</p>
+
+<p class = "right">
+STANLEY J. STEWARD, M. E.,<br />
+Director, St. Johnsbury Vocational School.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span></p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE">PREFACE</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>Each year American parents spend millions of dollars for toys for the
+children. In a short time a large part of these toys are broken, and lie
+in the corner or the back yard. This is because of the destructive
+habits children have developed. These same habits have been formed
+because, since birth, toys have cost these children nothing.</p>
+
+<p>Children, like grown-ups, value things and form habits in proportion to
+the cost to them. They break up what costs them nothing, and cherish and
+keep repaired what they, themselves, have made or purchased with
+self-denial or self-earned money.</p>
+
+<p>The breaking of toys is bad, but the effect upon the character of the
+child is infinitely worse. Destructive tendencies are developed, while
+constructive ability is allowed to lie dormant and inactive.</p>
+
+<p>The remedy for this is to develop the constructive rather than the
+destructive in children by buying them working outfits and books of
+instruction with which they can make and repair things for themselves.
+In other words, buy tools, equipment and supplies rather than finished
+toys. Carlisle said, "Man without tools is nothing; man with tools is
+all." Education is to children what civilization is to the race.</p>
+
+<p>What to buy for each particular child depends upon the age and
+tendencies of the child and is a matter parents must determine for
+themselves. The important test is, "Is it something that the child can
+use to make things for himself, for others and for the home?"</p>
+
+<p>When purchasing tools it is an excellent plan to leave some part of the
+outfit for the children to make or to buy from money they themselves
+have earned. In other words, co-operate with the children instead of
+doing it all for them.</p>
+
+<p>The writer speaks not only from the teacher's point of view, but from
+the parent's as well. The problems offered in this book are not only
+within the capabilities of the average child, but are all tested and
+proven as being worth-while and appealing strongly to the child's ideals
+and imagination.</p>
+
+<p class = "right">
+LEON H. BAXTER.<br /></p>
+<p>St. Johnsbury, Vt.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span></p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="TABLE_OF_CONTENTS" id="TABLE_OF_CONTENTS">TABLE OF CONTENTS</a></h2>
+
+<table id="indexjump" summary="alpha jump table" width = "380">
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td>Page</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#HISTORY_OF_TOY-MAKING">History of Toy-Making</a></td><td><a href="#Page_11">11-3</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#EQUIPMENT">Equipment</a></td><td><a href="#Page_13">13-4</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#LAYING_OUT_WORK">Laying Out Work</a></td><td><a href="#Page_14">14</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#TRANSFERRING_A_DESIGN_TO_WOOD">Transferring a Design</a></td><td><a href="#Page_14">14-5</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#ADAPTING_THE_PROBLEM_TO_THE_BOYS_ABILITY">Adapting the Problem to the Boy's Ability</a></td><td><a href="#Page_15">15</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#FINISH_AND_COLOR">Finish and Color</a></td><td><a href="#Page_15">15-7</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#STAINING">Staining</a></td><td><a href="#Page_17">17-8</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#METHOD_OF_JOINTING_WOOD">Method of Jointing Wood</a></td><td><a href="#Page_18">18-20</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#SUPPORTS_FOR_HOLDING_COPING_SAW_WORK">Supports for Holding Coping Saw Work</a></td><td><a href="#Page_20">20</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#SUPPORT_TO_BE_HELD_IN_VISE">Support to be Held in Vise</a></td><td><a href="#Page_20">20-2</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#SUPPORT_FOR_TABLE_USE">Supports for Table Use</a></td><td><a href="#Page_22">22</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#THE_BENCH_HOOK">The Bench Hook</a></td><td><a href="#Page_22">22-4</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#SIMPLE_TOOL_SHARPENING">Simple Tool Sharpening</a></td><td><a href="#Page_24">24-6</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#COPING_SAW_WORK">Coping Saw Work</a></td><td><a href="#Page_26">26-7</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#DOWEL_STICKS">Dowel Sticks</a></td><td><a href="#Page_27">27</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#PICTURE_PUZZLE_CONSTRUCTION">Picture Puzzle Construction</a></td><td><a href="#Page_27">27-8</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Pelican">Pelican</a></td><td><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Duck">Duck</a></td><td><a href="#Page_30">30</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Goose">Goose</a></td><td><a href="#Page_31">31</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Rhinoceros">Rhinoceros</a></td><td><a href="#Page_32">32</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Elephant">Elephant</a></td><td><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Rabbit">Rabbit</a></td><td><a href="#Page_34">34</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Lamb">Lamb</a></td><td><a href="#Page_35">35</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Goat">Goat</a></td><td><a href="#Page_36">36</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Rooster">Rooster</a></td><td><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Camel">Camel</a></td><td><a href="#Page_38">38</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#METHOD_OF_ENLARGING_FIGURES">Method of Enlarging Figures</a></td><td><a href="#Page_39">39-40</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#DIPPY_DUCK">Dippy Duck</a></td><td><a href="#Page_40">40-1</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#THE_MONITOR">Monitor</a></td><td><a href="#Page_42">42-3</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#THE_MERRIMAC">Merrimac</a></td><td><a href="#Page_44">44-5</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHILDS_SNOW_SHOVEL">Child's Snow Shovel</a></td><td><a href="#Page_46">46-7</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#THE_PERISCOPE">The Periscope</a></td><td><a href="#Page_47">47-8</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#DOLLS_IRONING_BOARD_A">Doll's Ironing Board (Size A)</a></td><td><a href="#Page_49">49-51</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#DOLLS_IRONING_BOARD_B">Doll's Ironing Board (Size B)</a></td><td><a href="#Page_51">51-3</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#DOLLS_IRONING_BOARD_C">Doll's Ironing Board (Size C)</a></td><td><a href="#Page_53">53-5</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#DOLLS_CLOTHES_RACK">Doll's Clothes Rack</a></td><td><a href="#Page_55">55-7</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHILDS_WASH_BENCH">Child's Wash Bench</a></td><td><a href="#Page_57">57-9</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHILDS_STEP_LADDER">Child's Step Ladder</a></td><td><a href="#Page_59">59-63</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#DOLLS_TABLE_WITH_DRAWER">Doll's Table with Drawer</a></td><td><a href="#Page_62">62-4</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#COLONIAL_DOLLS_TABLE">Colonial Doll's Table</a></td><td><a href="#Page_64">64-6</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#COLONIAL_DOLLS_CHAIR">Colonial Doll's Chair</a></td><td><a href="#Page_66">66-7</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#RING-THE-HOOK_GAME">Ring-The-Hook Game</a></td><td><a href="#Page_68">68-9</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#FIVE_POST_RING_TOSS">Five Post Ring Toss</a></td><td><a href="#Page_68">68-72</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#BEAN_BAG_GAME">Bean Bag Game</a></td><td><a href="#Page_72">72-4</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#DART_BOARD_GAME">Dart Board Game</a></td><td><a href="#Page_74">74-6</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Darts">Darts</a></td><td><a href="#Page_75">75-7</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#WIND_MILL_A">Wind Mill</a></td><td><a href="#Page_77">77-80</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#WIND_MILL_B">Wind Mill (Type B)</a></td><td><a href="#Page_80">80-2</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#SAND_OR_WATER_MILL">Sand or Water Mill</a></td><td><a href="#Page_82">82-4</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#DOLLS_CRADLE">Doll's Cradle</a></td><td><a href="#Page_84">84-7</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#COLONIAL_DOLL_CRADLE">Colonial Doll Cradle</a></td><td><a href="#Page_87">87-9</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#DOLLS_BED">Doll's Bed</a></td><td><a href="#Page_89">89-91</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#TWO_TYPES_OF_STILTS">Two Types of Stilts</a></td><td><a href="#Page_91">91-3</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHILDS_CART">Child's Cart</a></td><td><a href="#Page_93">93-5</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHILDS_DUMP_WAGON">Child's Dump Wagon</a></td><td><a href="#Page_95">95-9</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHILDS_WHEELBARROW_A">Child's Wheelbarrow (Type A)</a></td><td><a href="#Page_99">99-103</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHILDS_WHEELBARROW_B">Child's Wheelbarrow (Type B)</a></td><td><a href="#Page_102">102-5</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CLOWN_RUNNING_WHEEL">Clown Running Wheel</a></td><td><a href="#Page_105">105-9</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#COCK_HORSE">Cock Horse</a></td><td><a href="#Page_109">109-10</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#ROCKING_ROOSTER">Rocking Rooster</a></td><td><a href="#Page_111">111-13</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#KIDDIE_KAR">Kiddie Kar</a></td><td><a href="#Page_113">113-15</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#KIDDIE_KOASTER">Kiddie Koaster</a></td><td><a href="#Page_116">116-19</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#SKI_SKOOTER">Ski Skooter</a></td><td><a href="#Page_119">119-22</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#METHOD_OF_BENDING_RUNNERS">Method of Bending Runners</a></td><td><a href="#Page_121">121-2</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#SKI_SKIPPERS">Ski Skippers</a></td><td><a href="#Page_122">122-5</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#DOLL_SLEIGH">Doll Sleigh</a></td><td><a href="#Page_125">125-8</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHILDS_TABLE">Child's Table</a></td><td><a href="#Page_128">128-30</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHILDS_CHAIR">Child's Chair</a></td><td><a href="#Page_130">130-1</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+<p><br /></p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p><br /></p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span></p>
+<p><br /></p>
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_014ma.jpg" width = "800" height = "545" alt = "Girls Making Toys"/>
+<div class = "caption">Girls Making Toys for a Red Cross Christmas Sale.</div>
+</div>
+<p><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_014mb.jpg" width = "800" height = "545" alt = "A Christmas Sale"/>
+<div class = "caption">A Christmas Sale of Toys for the Red Cross.</div>
+</div>
+<p><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_014mc.jpg" width = "800" height = "454" alt = "Boy Toy Makers"/>
+<div class = "caption">Boy Toy Makers and Some of their Products.</div>
+</div>
+<p><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_014md.jpg" width = "800" height = "365" alt = "Making Toys"/>
+<div class = "caption">Making Toys in the School Shop.</div>
+</div>
+<p><br /></p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<p class="ph1"><a name="TOY_CRAFT" id="TOY_CRAFT">TOY CRAFT</a></p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="HISTORY_OF_TOY-MAKING" id="HISTORY_OF_TOY-MAKING">HISTORY OF TOY-MAKING.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>To tell the history of toy-making from its earliest days it would be
+necessary to follow the story back through many centuries, for the
+archaeologists, in delving among the tombs of ancient Greece and Egypt,
+have made the surprising discovery that children played with dolls, and
+jointed dolls at that, more than five thousand years ago.</p>
+
+<p>Moreover, by the side of these dolls scientists have unearthed other
+playthings that children still crave: doll's furniture, animal toys and
+toys with wheels, illustrating the methods of transportation of those
+early days.</p>
+
+<p>These same scientists claim that the custom of playing with dolls and
+other toys is as old as the world itself and that playthings are, and
+always have been, just as necessary a constituent of human health and
+development as either food or medicine.</p>
+
+<p>They claim that the reason that boys and girls crave toys is that nature
+requires them, and to deprive children of such playthings would be to
+retard their mental growth and development.</p>
+
+<p>The Latin word <b>trochus</b> means a hoop for children. The hoops of Roman
+children were made of bronze and iron and were rolled by a sort of a
+crooked stick and sometimes had small bells attached.</p>
+
+<p><b>Pupa</b>, the Latin word meaning "a little girl," applies to dolls which
+were made from rags, wood, wax, ivory and terra cotta. When the Greek
+girls of that time married they dedicated their dolls to Artemis; the
+Roman girls, to Venus; but, if they died before marriage, their dolls
+were buried with them.</p>
+
+<p>The Latin word <b>crepundia</b> meant children's playthings, such as rattles,
+dolls, toy hatchets and swords.</p>
+
+<p>The toys made during the middle ages for the children of noble families
+and rich merchants, show special care and fine workmanship. Many of them
+were of a religious nature in the form of the Cross of the Crusaders, or
+military in origin, like miniature knights on horseback. The toys of
+this period were generally carved by goldsmiths.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The American Indians and the Esquimaux made dolls from bits of skin and
+fur of wild animals and gaily decorated them with shells, beads and
+feathers. They also carved small models of animals and human beings from
+wood and bone.</p>
+
+<p>The oldest European toy manufacturing center is Nuremberg, Germany. This
+town is especially noted for its metal playthings, like the lead
+soldiers, which were the delight of our childhood. Sonneberg, in
+Germany, is the greatest European center for the manufacture of wooden
+toys.</p>
+
+<p>Winchendon, Mass., is the greatest toy manufacturing center in the
+United States, nearly every enterprise in that town being toy-making.</p>
+
+<p>In spite of the early origin of toys the progress of manufacturing
+playthings has been so slow that, even as late as one hundred years ago,
+the types of toys were few in number, simple in construction and
+extremely expensive, especially in the United States.</p>
+
+<p>There was no systematic manufacture of such articles, and, as the cost
+of importation was very high, comparatively few persons could afford
+such means of amusement for their children.</p>
+
+<p>The children of those days accepted more primitive things, dolls that
+were often merely pieces of cloth folded and pinned in such a manner as
+to suggest the outline that was not there.</p>
+
+<p>A few other toys such as hoops, jumping-jacks, tenpins, marbles,
+battledore-and-shuttlecock and alphabet blocks, represented the limit of
+the toy-makers' stock.</p>
+
+<p>In America the toy-making industry is of quite recent origin. Before
+1875 more than ninety per cent of the toys sold in this country were of
+foreign manufacture, and those that were made here were never exported
+to other countries. Today, however, about five per cent of the toys sold
+here are made abroad and the rest are manufactured here in our own
+country. Up to 1875 there was not a doll factory in the United States.</p>
+
+<p>Today, while we import some dainty toys from France, Germany and
+Switzerland, nearly all the newest, unique and mechanical productions
+are made in America.</p>
+
+<p>Simple toys are mostly made of wood and metal, and the same principles
+employed by mechanical engineers, in duplicating parts of machinery, are
+used in making duplicate parts of toys.</p>
+
+<p>When a design has been decided on, it is reduced to its most simple
+element. Jigs are then made so that each piece will be an exact
+duplicate of every similar piece, and the construction is pushed through
+on the American factory system.</p>
+
+<p>Some toys are very elaborate, costing several hundred<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> dollars. These
+are readily purchased, however, by people of means.</p>
+
+<p>In the author's opinion the best kind of toys are those which suggest
+rather than fulfill, and those with which the child can really do
+something. Mechanical toys, which supply their own energy, should not be
+allowed to take the place of those into which the child must infuse part
+of his own life and energy. It follows naturally, then, that the toys
+made by the children themselves are the ideal ones.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="EQUIPMENT" id="EQUIPMENT">EQUIPMENT.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>The following drawings vary in difficulty from those within the ability
+of a nine or ten-year-old child to those which should not be attempted
+by a child under junior high school age. Of course there are younger
+boys, who possess especial ability in this line of work and who can
+successfully carry through projects which the ordinary child of a like
+age would fail to satisfactorily complete. Such boys are, however, the
+exception.</p>
+
+<p>For the younger workman the following outfit is ample:</p>
+
+<p>One coping saw frame.</p>
+
+<p>One dozen saw blades.</p>
+
+<p>A sloyd knife or a pocket knife with a small stone to keep it sharp.</p>
+
+<p>Some No. 1 sandpaper, a small can of glue and some one inch brads.</p>
+
+<p>The whole outfit will cost about a dollar.</p>
+
+<p>A small plane is very convenient, but it is not absolutely necessary for
+work for younger children.</p>
+
+<p>A board on which the sawing is done, to prevent marring the table, can
+be made from a piece of boxwood 7/8" &times; 6" &times; 12". A hole should be bored
+about three inches from one end and half way between the sides, and a
+V-shaped notch should be cut from the end of the board to the hole. The
+photograph on Page <a href = "#Page_20">20</a> shows the sawing board in use and illustrates two
+methods of constructing and holding the board. See also <a href = "#Holding">Plate 2</a> for
+method of making these boards. If a vise is available matters are very
+much simplified.</p>
+
+<p>With the above described outfit, toy animals, toy furniture,
+jumping-jacks and other simple toys of a like nature can be made.</p>
+
+<p>The material should be thin wood from the thickness of cigar box wood
+(which by the way is especially good to use for some of the toys), up to
+one-half inch in thickness.</p>
+
+<p>Composition board, such as Beaver Board and similar wall board, is very
+good for the smaller toys but lacks strength and cannot be handled
+roughly.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Three-ply veneered wood may be obtained from firms which specialize in
+veneer. It is strong and serviceable but a little more expensive than
+the plain wood.</p>
+
+<p>Bass and pine are excellent woods to use in toy-making, as they work
+very easily and are light in weight.</p>
+
+<p>For the older boy, who will no doubt be handy about the house, the
+following tools are suggested:</p>
+
+<p>
+1 Rip saw.<br />
+1 Turning saw.<br />
+1 Claw hammer.<br />
+1 Screw driver.<br />
+1 Half round file, No. 10.<br />
+1 Ruler.<br />
+1 Jack, or smooth, plane.<br />
+1 Brace, set of bits and countersink.<br />
+A 1/2" and 1" chisels.<br />
+1 Try square.<br />
+1 Pair of 6" dividers.<br />
+1 Knife.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>This outfit should cost about $25. Other tools may be added by the boy
+himself as the necessity arises.</p>
+
+<p>If a bench is not available at first, a temporary one may be made from a
+stout dry goods box and a more satisfactory one purchased later with
+money earned by the boy by making things for others.</p>
+
+<p>Cheap tools are an expensive investment as they are never satisfactory.
+A few tools of good quality should be purchased to start with, and
+others should be added as necessity demands and funds permit.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="LAYING_OUT_WORK" id="LAYING_OUT_WORK">LAYING OUT WORK.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>For the young beginner it will be necessary to have patterns of animals
+and other toys to trace around, before cutting out the forms.</p>
+
+<p>In the author's opinion originality should be always encouraged in a boy
+when the original designs can be successfully worked out to completion
+by the boy.</p>
+
+<p>With beginners, however, considerable tact must be used in leading them
+on to work out original ideas through the medium of the sketching
+pencil. Only very few have the ability to carry out an idea which they
+may have, and if allowed to attempt it without a trial on paper the
+resulting product is most always a failure. As stated before, the first
+work should be tracings from well-designed patterns. These, then, can be
+successfully worked out, and the result is satisfying to the mind of the
+child and not a discouraging failure.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="TRANSFERRING_A_DESIGN_TO_WOOD" id="TRANSFERRING_A_DESIGN_TO_WOOD">TRANSFERRING A DESIGN TO WOOD.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>A design may be traced by placing a piece of transparent paper over the
+desired drawing and outlining it with a pencil. The resulting tracing is
+cut out, placed on a stiff piece of cardboard or fiber board, and
+redrawn on this. The board is then cut carefully with scissors or a
+sharp knife. This pattern may be used for a long time and other patterns
+may be made from it in a similar manner.</p>
+
+<p>Another simple method is to place a piece of carbon paper beneath the
+desired drawing, carbon side down, and to go over the lines of the
+drawing with a medium-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span>hard pencil. This transfer may be made directly
+on the wood or on a piece of cardboard which is to be cut out and used
+as a pattern. For cut-up picture puzzles the picture is pasted directly
+on the wood and, after drying, is cut at random. See <a href = "#Puzzle1">Plate 5</a>.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="ADAPTING_THE_PROBLEM_TO_THE_BOYS_ABILITY" id="ADAPTING_THE_PROBLEM_TO_THE_BOYS_ABILITY">ADAPTING THE PROBLEM TO THE BOY'S ABILITY.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>As the child's efficiency increases and he leaves the simpler toy forms
+for others of increasing difficulty, he should be encouraged to read the
+working drawings of the article which he intends to make. Show him how
+to discover from the drawing the lengths, widths, thicknesses of the
+pieces to be made and, after carefully checking him up, let him work out
+his own salvation for a while. In other words, do not do it all for him.
+Let the result be at least 90 per cent the boy's own work. Be ready,
+however, to assist at the right moment and never turn a deaf ear to the
+persistent question, "Why"?</p>
+
+<p>By following this logical method of procedure in teaching, the writer
+has found that the young craftsman is ready a great deal earlier to work
+out original ideas and designs to a practical and successful conclusion.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="FINISH_AND_COLOR" id="FINISH_AND_COLOR">FINISH AND COLOR.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>After all cutting with edged tools has been completed, all pieces should
+be carefully sanded to insure the removal of all scars, pencil lines and
+other imperfections.</p>
+
+<p>Sandpaper should be used on a small block. Care should be taken that no
+paper hangs over the block, thus rounding the edges of the work being
+finished.</p>
+
+<p>In sanding over a first coat of shellac or paint a block is not used,
+but the sandpaper is folded two or three times and used under the finger
+tips. Care must be taken especially not to wear through the finish on
+the edges.</p>
+
+<p>Paint is difficult and unsatisfactory for younger children to use.
+Colors handled by beginners will run together and will be "dauby" in
+appearance and a detriment rather than a finish to a toy. Added to this
+is the likelihood of a generous application on the painter's hands and
+clothing.</p>
+
+<p>The writer has had excellent results in using the ordinary colored wax
+crayons on toys. Crayon is easy to apply, has a pleasing color tone, is
+clean and very satisfactory for the beginner. After all of a toy has
+been colored a fairly heavy line may be drawn free-hand, at the point of
+contact of the colors, with an ordinary drafting pen and India ink.
+Pains should be taken to see that the ink is dry in one place before
+applying in another. If the crayon has been put on with pressure and
+uniformly deposited over the surface the ink will "take"<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> without
+spreading and the result is a clean-cut finished appearance.</p>
+
+<p>For more advanced workers the toys should be painted with either
+commercial or enamel paints, which are available on the market in all
+colors, or with colors mixed by the boy himself. If the boy mixes his
+own colors much of the mystery of the ready-mixed paints is done away
+with.</p>
+
+<p>By adding to white enamel a small amount of a selected color, ground in
+oil, various tones of the color may be obtained.</p>
+
+<p>In painting any object a first or priming coat is applied. Flat white is
+an excellent all-round primer. After the priming coat has dried
+thoroughly on a toy, it should be sanded lightly to remove any rough
+places with No. 0 sandpaper and dusted. Then the final coat should be
+applied.</p>
+
+<p>Gray is also very good for the first coat except where a white or very
+light colored paints are to be used for the finished coat.</p>
+
+<p>When painting small toys or parts of larger toys it is economy to have a
+string or wire stretched between two hooks six or seven feet from the
+floor, on which to hang the painted article.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_026m.jpg" width = "800" height = "532" alt = "Careful Painting"/>
+<div class = "caption">Careful painting is as essential to the success of a toy as good construction.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><br />Drive an inch brad into some part of the toy that will not be seen, such
+as the lower edge of the animal toys, and attach a short length of
+string or wire to this and hang up as before described. This nail will
+be handy to hold the toy by while painting and when hung up is out of
+the way, is not touching anything to cause marks on the paint, and is
+high enough up to be where the temperature of the room will assist in
+the drying process. Remove this nail after the toy is dry. If possible
+toys should dry in a special room where it is quiet, with no<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> dust
+stirring or drafts blowing, and where the temperature is fairly uniform,
+not falling below 60 degrees.</p>
+
+<p>Paint should be applied with the tip of the brush, holding the brush
+nearly vertical, using a uniform stroke and taking care to prevent
+"tears" or surplus paint running over an edge. The brush should be in
+proportion to the size of the article painted, and the strokes should be
+outward toward the edges rather than from the edges inward.</p>
+
+<p>Features and fine lines on the toys may be placed with No. 3 round sable
+brush or with India ink in an ordinary drafting pen. The latter method
+of outlining and drawing in features has proved most successful with the
+writer's classes, as the solidity of the pen allows a firm pressure on
+the surface of the work and insures a uniform line. Fine or coarse lines
+may be made by adjusting the pen to suit the desired need.</p>
+
+<p>Considerable skill is needed to satisfactorily place lines with a fine
+pointed brush held in the hands of an inexperienced boy, and the
+drafting-pen method simplifies the problem immensely.</p>
+
+<p>Adjoining colors, outlined by this method, improve the appearance of the
+toy fifty per cent.</p>
+
+<p>Dull colors may be "livened up" by applying a coat of white shellac or
+varnish.</p>
+
+<p>Toys having parts of various colors, such as carts, etc., should have
+the different parts painted before assembling.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="STAINING" id="STAINING">STAINING.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>Before attempting to stain a toy, the wood should be carefully examined
+to see that all scars, glue or scratches have been removed. This is very
+important as the stain will show up all imperfections in the wood very
+plainly. Enough stain should be poured in a shallow cup for the piece of
+work at hand and should then be applied with a brush with the grain of
+the wood in long narrow bands from one end of the work to the other. The
+stain should be wiped with a piece of waste or cloth soon after being
+applied, removing all surplus stain and thus bringing out the grain of
+the wood.</p>
+
+<p>Pains must be taken when staining the edges not to allow the stain to
+run over on the adjacent surface. If it does the stain should be quickly
+wiped off with a piece of waste before it causes the surface to be
+unevenly stained.</p>
+
+<p>There will probably be no necessity in toy construction to use filler on
+the wood so the method of applying this will be omitted.</p>
+
+<p>Next apply a coat of white shellac (reduced by one part of alcohol to
+three parts of shellac), brushing it on quickly with the grain of the
+wood.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Do not have too much shellac on the brush. If laps or runs show, work
+them out with the brush.</p>
+
+<p>After the shellac has dried eight or ten hours it should be rubbed
+lightly with No. 0 sandpaper. Be careful not to sand through the
+shellac, particularly on the edges. A second coat may be applied if
+desired.</p>
+
+<p>For the last coat apply a coat of either hard or liquid wax, the latter
+being preferable.</p>
+
+<p>Shake the can or jar before applying liquid wax. Apply evenly with a
+soft cloth and allow it to dry for an hour. Rub down to the proper
+luster with a soft clean cloth. Two or more coats of wax may be applied
+if desired.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="METHOD_OF_JOINTING_WOOD" id="METHOD_OF_JOINTING_WOOD">METHOD OF JOINTING WOOD.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>If, on account of width, certain pieces of work cannot be obtained from
+material at hand, two pieces may have to be joined together.</p>
+
+<p>One edge of each piece to be joined should be carefully planed square
+and straight. Keep trying the two edges together until a satisfactory
+joint is obtained, one so satisfactory that when the edges are placed
+together no joint line is visible. When such a joint is obtained we are
+ready to take the next step&mdash;to locate holes for dowels.</p>
+
+<p>This method is shown in <a href = "#Jointing">Plate 1</a>, Fig. A. Here the two pieces are placed
+face to face and lines are squared across the two edges, planning
+enough space to insure a strong job. Two or three dowels are usually
+sufficient. Locate the centers of all these lines so that the spur of
+the bit will come equidistant from each edge, as shown.</p>
+
+<p>Bore the holes at least twice as deep as the wood is thick. Thus for
+half inch stock the holes should be at least an inch deep.</p>
+
+<p>For half inch and three-eighths inch wood the hole should be bored with
+a quarter inch bit, for wood three-quarter inch to one inch thick a half
+inch bit should be used.</p>
+
+<p>Take extreme care in boring the holes to see that the bit is at right
+angles to the edge of the wood, otherwise difficulties will arise when
+we come to put the work together.</p>
+
+<p>After all holes are bored, the round sticks called dowels should be cut,
+one-eighth inch shorter than the combined depths of the two holes. This
+allowance is made so that glue may work under the ends of the dowels and
+also that the dowels may not be too long and thus prevent the edges of
+the joint from coming together.</p>
+
+<p>Apply glue to the dowels and insert them in the holes and spread glue on
+both of the edges, as shown in Fig. B, Plate 1.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span><br /></p>
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Jointing"><img src="images/i_031m.jpg" width = "800" height = "492" alt = "Jointing Wood"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 1.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Place the work in clamps, if available, protecting the edges of the wood
+from the iron of the clamps with small pieces or blocks of soft wood.</p>
+
+<p>Fig. C shows the clamps in position. If no clamps are at hand a
+makeshift clamp may be made, as shown in Fig. D. In using this clamping
+arrangement a strong piece of wood should be nailed to the floor, where
+such nailing will do no harm, driving the nails only about
+three-quarters of the way in. Place the wood to be clamped against this
+and nail two wedge shaped pieces about an inch and a half away, as
+shown. Prepare other pieces, also of wedge shape, of a proper size to
+drive into place, as indicated.</p>
+
+<p>By a careful study of Fig. D the important features of such a method of
+clamping will be understood.</p>
+
+<p>The cold glue that comes in cans ready for use will be found most
+convenient for the beginner to use. The clamps should remain on the work
+overnight, and when removed the two surfaces of the wood must be cleaned
+of all glue and planed.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="SUPPORTS_FOR_HOLDING_COPING_SAW_WORK" id="SUPPORTS_FOR_HOLDING_COPING_SAW_WORK">SUPPORTS FOR HOLDING COPING SAW WORK.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>In <a href = "#Holding">Plate 2</a> are shown two devices for holding work while using the coping
+saw. Fig. A is a type of support suitable for use in a vise and is of a
+height that will enable the workman to stand while sawing. Fig. B is
+lower, and the sawing is done while sitting in a chair. This type is
+designed for use where there is no vise and is held secure by a clamp,
+as is shown in the sketch.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Photo1"><img src="images/i_033m.jpg" width = "800" height = "531" alt = "Correctly Using Supports"/>
+<div class = "caption">Boys using correctly the Supports for Coping Saw Work detailed in Plate 2.</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="SUPPORT_TO_BE_HELD_IN_VISE" id="SUPPORT_TO_BE_HELD_IN_VISE">SUPPORT TO BE HELD IN VISE.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>In making this support the following method should be followed:</p>
+
+<p>The back piece is first made 7/8" &times; 6-3/4" &times; 20". The top is made 7/8" &times;
+6-3/4 &times; 12" and the brace 7/8" &times; 3" &times; 8-1/2". This brace tapers to a
+point at the lower end.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span><br /></p>
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Holding"><img src="images/i_034m.jpg" width = "800" height = "484" alt = "Coping Saw Support"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 2.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Two small cleats are 7/8" &times; 1-1/4" &times; 6-3/4" and are attached to the
+upright piece 1-7/8" up from the bottom edge. This allows the support to
+set firmly in the vise. Measure in from one end of the top piece 5" and
+have this point come half way between the sides. At this point a hole is
+carefully bored with a 3/4" bit. On this same end measure in from each
+edge 2-1/4". From these points draw lines tangent to the edges of the
+circle, as shown. Cut out this V-shaped notch.</p>
+
+<p>Bore all holes shown on the drawing with a bit that will allow using
+1-1/4" or 1-1/2". No. 8 flat-head screws. Have all surfaces sanded
+smoothly and assemble with glue and screws.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="SUPPORT_FOR_TABLE_USE" id="SUPPORT_FOR_TABLE_USE">SUPPORT FOR TABLE USE.</a></h2>
+
+<p>For the support shown in Fig. B, <a href="#Holding">Plate 2</a>, we make the upright 7/8" &times;
+6-3/4" &times; 8-7/8". The top is cut 7/8" &times; 6-3/4" &times; 12" and the base 7/8" &times;
+5" &times; 6-3/4" and the upright brace 7/8" &times; 3" &times; 8". The top has the same
+V-shaped notch cut in it as the other form of support. Bore all
+necessary holes, sandpaper and assemble. The clamp shown in the sketch
+answers the purpose very nicely and may be purchased for a small sum at
+any hardware store.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="THE_BENCH_HOOK" id="THE_BENCH_HOOK">THE BENCH HOOK.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>The bench hook is a very useful article to have about the work bench. It
+is made of hard wood, preferably maple. The drawing is shown in <a href = "#Hook">Plate
+3</a>. The main piece is made 7/8" &times; 6" &times; 12". Two cross cleats are made,
+one being 7/8" &times; 1-1/2" &times; 6" and the other 7/8" &times; 1-1/2" &times; 5". Holes are
+bored and countersunk at the places shown in the drawing. Great care
+must be taken in cutting these three pieces of wood to see that every
+edge is square and true. One of the cleats is attached on one side of
+the board even with the end, while the other is placed on the other side
+on the opposite end. These are held in place with glue and 1-1/4" No. 8
+flat-head screws. By referring to the drawing and the sketch the idea
+may be readily seen. It will be noticed that the short cleat has its end
+even with the left-hand edge, thus leaving a space of an inch at the
+right. When used with this side up it is for the purpose of sawing off
+small pieces of wood with the back saw, and when used with the other
+side up, on which the long cleat is attached, it is for the purpose of
+planing the end of a piece of wood across the grain.</p>
+
+
+<p>If a piece of wood is set up in a vise for end planing and the planing
+is done across the grain, the fibers on the further edge have no support
+but break away, as shown in Fig. C, Plate 3. In using the bench-hook the
+wood lies flat on the board and fits tight against the long cleat, and
+the plane is laid flat on its side and pushed back and forth. (Plate 3,
+Fig. A.)</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Hook"><img src="images/i_037m.jpg" width = "800" height = "490" alt = "Bench Hook"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 3.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>It can be readily seen that supported as it now is, the piece of wood
+being planed will not splinter or break on its further edge. Pains must
+be taken, however, to keep the plane flat on its side, not raising it on
+its edge at all, for by so doing the resulting planed edge will not be
+square. This bench-hook may be made quite easily by the beginner and
+besides being a good problem, is a very helpful addition to the tool
+outfit. It works very well when planing wood not over six or seven
+inches wide. Wood wider than this should be planed as follows: Place the
+piece of wood upright in the vise with the end grain uppermost, and
+plane about three-quarters of the way across the edge. Then turn the
+piece and plane the remaining part back in the opposite direction. By so
+doing the end of the wood will not be split.</p>
+
+<p>Figures A and B, <a href = "#Hook">Plate 3</a>, show the operation of the bench-hook for both
+sawing and planing.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="SIMPLE_TOOL_SHARPENING" id="SIMPLE_TOOL_SHARPENING">SIMPLE TOOL SHARPENING.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>In order to do good, clean-cut, accurate work it is very necessary that
+all cutting tools be kept sharp. And it is important that every boy who
+undertakes toy making have an elementary knowledge of the subject,
+especially an understanding of how to properly sharpen the knife, the
+chisel and the plane blade.</p>
+
+<p>If the tool is very dull, with nicks in the cutting edge, it should be
+ground first on the grindstone. It is quite important that the blade be
+held at the proper angle, about 25 degrees on the stone. A suitable tool
+holder, such as is shown in the illustration on Page <a href = "#Page_26">26</a>, is a very
+useful article to have in the tool equipment. The tool is held in place,
+bevel side down, by thumbscrews, and projects beyond the holder a little
+over half an inch.</p>
+
+<p>The grindstone should be thoroughly wet to prevent heating the tool and
+also to insure the washing away of the fine particles of steel from the
+surface of the stone.</p>
+
+<p>The round shape of the stone causes the bevel of the tool to be concave
+if held steadily in one position, as shown in Fig. A, Plate 4. Fig. B
+shows the incorrect result if the blade is not held evenly on the stone.
+It can be readily seen that the latter result will not make a very sharp
+cutting edge.</p>
+
+<p>Care should be taken when grinding not to round the corners of the tool.</p>
+
+<p>The theory of the cutting edge of the tool is the same as that of the
+wedge; the thinner the wedge the easier it is to drive it. However, the
+wedge, as well as the tool, must be thick enough to stand the strain of
+being driven into the wood, or the material which is to be split or cut.
+Too long and thin a bevel, while sharp at first, soon loses its edge
+through usage, while too blunt an edge makes the tool unsatisfactory to
+work with.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Tool_Sharpen"><img src="images/i_040m.jpg" width = "800" height = "490" alt = "Tool Sharpening"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 4.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The grindstone leaves the tool edge rough, or with a wire edge, as it is
+called. This roughness is removed on the oil stone. One or two drops of
+thin stone oil should be placed on the stone and the tool placed bevel
+side flat on the surface of the stone. Work with a circular motion,
+bearing on the tool with uniform pressure. Turn the blade over, bevel
+side up, seeing that the blade lies perfectly flat on the stone. Work
+with a similar motion. Repeat these operations until the blade is as
+sharp as desired. Wipe the oil from the tool and test by drawing the
+blade lightly across the thumb. If the blade clings to the skin it will
+be found sharp enough.</p>
+
+<p>Fig. C, on <a href = "#Tool_Sharpen">Plate 4</a>, shows the correct and incorrect methods of
+oil-stoning the tool blade. Always wipe the stone dry after using, as
+the oil will dry and gum up the grinding surface if not kept clean.</p>
+
+<p>Tool grinding is an important and rather difficult operation at first
+and skill comes only with continued practice.</p>
+
+<p>In sharpening a knife-blade on an oilstone care should be taken to keep
+the blade nearly flat on the stone in order to get a thin, sharp edge.
+The knife should be sharpened first on one side and then on the other,
+until the desired edge is obtained.</p>
+
+<p>Fig. D, <a href = "#Tool_Sharpen">Plate 4</a>, shows the right and wrong methods of holding the knife
+blade on the stone. Figures E and F show the results of careless
+sharpening. Fig. G is sharpened correctly.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Tool_Holder"><img src="images/i_042m.jpg" width = "617" height = "600" alt = "Grinding Tool Holder"/>
+<div class = "caption">Grinding Tool on Grindstone using Tool Holder.</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="COPING_SAW_WORK" id="COPING_SAW_WORK">COPING SAW WORK.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>The following plates of birds and animals (<a href = "#Pelican">Plates 6</a> to <a href = "#Duck_Dippy">17</a>) are
+especially interesting to the beginner and are excellent for the novice
+to prove and improve his skill with the coping saw.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Wood from 1/4" to 1/2" in thickness is best for this type of toy, 3/8"
+being a good medium thickness to use. Pulp board, such as Beaver board,
+is also very good, as there is no grain and, therefore, little liability
+of splitting. Pulp board saws very easily and takes paint nicely.</p>
+
+<p>All of these toys are mounted on a wood base, made of 1/2" wood, of a
+size shown on the various drawings. The animal is attached to the base
+with glue and 1-1/4" brads.</p>
+
+<p>Wheels can be made from a round stick (called a dowel) an inch in
+diameter by carefully sawing off pieces 3/8" thick.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are bored at the middle point of these wheels large enough to
+allow them to turn easily on a 1" No. 6 round-head blue screw. Washers
+should be placed on the screws on both sides of the wheels.</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#Pelican">Plate 6</a> gives a general idea of the toy base.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="DOWEL_STICKS" id="DOWEL_STICKS">DOWEL STICKS.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>Dowel sticks are very useful to the toy maker and an assortment of
+various sizes should be kept on hand. They are very handy in many ways
+in toy making and furniture construction. They come in sizes from 1/4"
+to 1" in diameter or larger, in 30" lengths, and cost from two to three
+cents apiece.</p>
+
+<p>Dowel sticks are usually carried in stock by local hardware men or may
+be obtained from manufacturers of mill work.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="PICTURE_PUZZLE_CONSTRUCTION" id="PICTURE_PUZZLE_CONSTRUCTION">PICTURE PUZZLE CONSTRUCTION.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>The problem illustrated in <a href = "#Puzzle1">Plate 5</a> is very interesting and especially
+good for the beginner.</p>
+
+<p>First, select a picture of the size desired from a calendar or discarded
+magazine. Colored pictures are the best.</p>
+
+<p>Prepare a piece of 1/4" soft wood, such as bass or pine, and glue the
+picture to the surface, rolling and pressing out air bubbles and
+smoothing away all wrinkles. Place a weight on the picture and allow it
+to dry overnight.</p>
+
+<p>Holding the coping saw so that the blade is straight up and down, or in
+other words, at right angles with the surface of the work, saw out
+irregular shaped pieces similar to those shown in the accompanying
+drawing.</p>
+
+<p>If these pieces are placed in a neat Christmas box, such as may be
+purchased at the five-and-ten-cent store, it will make a very pleasing
+Christmas gift.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Puzzle1"><img src="images/i_045m.jpg" width = "800" height = "485" alt = "Picture Puzzle"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 5.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Pelican"><img src="images/i_046m.jpg" width = "800" height = "481" alt = "Pelican"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 6.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Duck"><img src="images/i_047m.jpg" width = "800" height = "485" alt = "Duck"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 7.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Goose"><img src="images/i_048m.jpg" width = "800" height = "490" alt = "Goose"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 8.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Rhinoceros"><img src="images/i_049m.jpg" width = "800" height = "488" alt = "Rhinoceros"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 9.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Elephant"><img src="images/i_050m.jpg" width = "800" height = "484" alt = "Elephant"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 10.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Rabbit"><img src="images/i_051m.jpg" width = "365" height = "600" alt = "Rabbit"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 11.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Lamb"><img src="images/i_052m.jpg" width = "800" height = "486" alt = "Lamb"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 12.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Goat"><img src="images/i_053m.jpg" width = "800" height = "488" alt = "Goat"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 13.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Rooster"><img src="images/i_054m.jpg" width = "800" height = "492" alt = "Rooster"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 14.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Camel"><img src="images/i_055m.jpg" width = "800" height = "481" alt = "Camel"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 15.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span><br /></p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id ="Enlarge"><img src="images/i_056m.jpg" width = "800" height = "490" alt = "Enlarging Figures"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 16.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="METHOD_OF_ENLARGING_FIGURES" id="METHOD_OF_ENLARGING_FIGURES">METHOD OF ENLARGING FIGURES.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>If a figure shown in a book or in any picture is to be enlarged the
+following method is very simple:</p>
+
+<p>Enclose the figure in a rectangle and divide it in quarter inch squares,
+like the drawing of the duck in <a href = "#Enlarge">Plate 16</a>.</p>
+
+<p>If the drawing is to be enlarged twice the original size, draw a
+rectangle on a piece of paper or cardboard twice as large as the
+picture. Divide it into exactly the same number of squares, which will
+now be twice as large as before, or one-half inch on a side. Letter and
+number all parts to agree.</p>
+
+<p>Start now and sketch the enlarged figure, having the lines pass through
+the same places in the squares of the large rectangle as in the small.</p>
+
+<p>With a little patience it will be surprising how accurate a copy can be
+made.</p>
+
+<p>A picture may be reduced by the same method.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="DIPPY_DUCK" id="DIPPY_DUCK">DIPPY DUCK.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This toy is larger than the regular cut-out figure and has added action
+by the placing of the inner piece off-center on the larger wheel, thus
+causing the duck to move up and down as the toy is pulled along on the
+floor.</p>
+
+<p>As shown in the drawing (<a href = "#Duck_Dippy">Plate 17</a>), the base is made of four separate
+pieces, because it is easier to construct it this way than to cut out
+the slot from a solid piece. The wood used is 7/8" pine, the two long
+pieces being 1-1/2" wide by 15" long and the two end pieces 1-1/4" wide
+by 2-1/2" long. These are glued and chamfered. A small chamfer is planed
+around the top edge, as shown.</p>
+
+<p>The small base piece on which the duck rests is made 7/8" &times; 1" &times; 7-1/2".
+A hole is bored 2" from one end with a 1/2" bit and the slot is sawed
+out. The opposite end is rounded.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored in the end where the slot is cut 3/8" from the end, of a
+size that will take a piece of 16-penny nail tightly. The nail is cut
+one inch long and serves as an axle for the large wheel. A similar hole
+is bored, 3/8" from the other end, with a larger drill so that the nail
+used at this point will be smaller than the hole, allowing the base
+piece to move easily upon it.</p>
+
+<p>The large wheel is made by cutting a piece from a curtain rod 2-1/4" in
+diameter or by turning down a piece to this diameter on the lathe. This
+wheel is cut 3/8" thick. The four main wheels are 1-3/4" in diameter and
+3/8" thick. These wheels have a small hole bored exactly in their
+center, of a size large enough to allow a shingle, or a screw, nail to
+turn easily within.</p>
+
+<p>The wheels are attached two inches from the ends and the nails are
+driven in straight so as to insure the wheels turning evenly. A screw
+eye is placed at the front end, as shown, to which is attached a string
+to pull it by.</p>
+
+<p>All parts should be nicely sanded before assembling and then given two
+coats of paint. A suggested color scheme is given on the drawing.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Duck_Dippy"><img src="images/i_059m.jpg" width = "800" height = "488" alt = "Dippy Duck"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 17.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><br /><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span></p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_060m.jpg" width = "800" height = "486" alt = "Monitor"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 18.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="THE_MONITOR" id="THE_MONITOR">THE MONITOR.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This design is what might be called an amphibious toy, which means one
+that is at home both on the land and water.</p>
+
+<p>The base, or hull, is made from a piece of 1/2" board, 5-1/4" wide and
+14" long. At a point on the long edges, 4-1/2" from the ends, a center
+is taken with a compass, or pair of dividers, set at 5-1/4" radius, as
+shown in the drawing. Strike all of these curves and cut to the line
+with a coping saw and finish smooth.</p>
+
+<p>The main turret and the two smaller blocks are either turned on a lathe
+or cut from a cylindrical piece of wood. If care is used the pieces can
+also be cut with a turning saw from a piece of wood of the required
+thickness. The two smaller pieces are cut from a piece of 7/8" board and
+are 1-3/4" in diameter and are attached with 1" brads and glue, 1-3/4"
+from each end.</p>
+
+<p>For the main turret, which is to be movable, a hole is bored in the hull
+exactly in the middle. In boring, a bit a little larger than the size of
+a 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screw is used, in order that the screw shank
+will move easily. This hole is countersunk on the under side. A smaller
+hole is started on the under side of the turret to receive the screw
+and, when the pieces are assembled, the screw is not screwed up tight,
+but enough play is left so that the turret will revolve fairly easily.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_062m.jpg" width = "734" height = "600" alt = "Monitor and Merrimac"/>
+<div class = "caption">The Monitor and the Merrimac and Animal Toys.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The two "guns" may be cut from 5/8" dowels, 2-3/8" long, or may be
+turned on a lathe. Two holes are bored, on opposite sides of the turret,
+3/8" deep, to receive the guns which are glued in.</p>
+
+<p>The two pieces to which the wheels are attached are made 1/2" &times; 3/4" &times;
+4", and are secured in place 4" from bow and stern with shingle nails
+and glue.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_063m.jpg" width = "800" height = "485" alt = "Merrimac"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 19.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The four wheels are cut from 1" dowels, 7/8" thick.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored exactly in the middle of each wheel a little larger than
+the wire of a shingle nail, which is used to hold them in place on the
+base.</p>
+
+<p>A small piece of 1/4" dowel about 2-1/4" long, is inserted in a hole,
+bored with a 1/4" bit, 3/4" from the bow. This is the flagstaff, and
+just in front of this is placed a small screw eye to attach the string
+for pulling the toy. Give the entire toy two coats of black paint.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="THE_MERRIMAC" id="THE_MERRIMAC">THE MERRIMAC.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>The Confederate Ironclad is a little harder to make than the Monitor,
+but it is well within the ability of a sixth grade boy.</p>
+
+<p>The hull is made 1/2" &times; 5-1/4" &times; 14", and is sawed to a point at the bow
+and stern, sloping from the center point of both ends to points 3-1/4"
+from either end.</p>
+
+<p>The upper works are made from a block of wood 1-3/4" thick, 4-1/2" wide
+and 7-1/2" long. This is beveled so that the top is 3-1/4" &times; 6-1/4".</p>
+
+<p>The two smokestacks are made from pieces of 3/4" dowel, cut 3-1/4" long
+and inserted in holes bored 1/2" deep, 1" from the sides of the upper
+deck and 3-1/8" from the ends. These are held in place with glue.</p>
+
+<p>The flagstaff is cut from a piece of 1/4" dowel, 2-3/8" long, inserted
+in a hole, bored with a 1/4" bit, 3/4" from the bow.</p>
+
+<p>Just in front of this, 1/4" from the end, is placed a small screw-eye to
+which a string may be attached.</p>
+
+<p>The ten "guns" are made from 1/2" dowels, cut 1" long, and at an angle
+so that the lower side is 7/8" long. This is so that they will fit
+against the sloping sides of the turret.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored from end to end of each gun, in their centers, so that a
+1-1/2" finish nail will fit in nicely.</p>
+
+<p>The guns are held in place with these nails and with glue at the points
+indicated on the drawing.</p>
+
+<p>The upper works and hull are held together with 1" brads and glue, in
+such a manner that the gun turret is equally distant from the ends and
+sides of the hull.</p>
+
+<p>The pieces which hold the wheels are made 1/2" &times; 3/4" &times; 4" and are
+nailed and glued in place, 3-1/2" from bow and stern.</p>
+
+<p>The wheels are 3/8" thick, cut from 1" dowels, and are held by shingle
+nails driven into the axle in such a way that they will turn freely.</p>
+
+<p>The holes for the nails, in the wheels, are bored exactly in their
+centers with a bit a little larger than the nail to be used.</p>
+
+<p>After sanding and assembling give the boat two coats of black or battle
+ship gray paint.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span></p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Snow_Shovel"><img src="images/i_066m.jpg" width = "800" height = "485" alt = "Snow Shovel"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 20.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="CHILDS_SNOW_SHOVEL" id="CHILDS_SNOW_SHOVEL">CHILD'S SNOW SHOVEL.</a></h2>
+
+<p>This problem is simple and of interest to young people during early
+winter. (<a href = "#Snow_Shovel">Plate 20</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>The handle may be made square in section first and then gradually
+rounded with a plane and then filed and sanded; or a discarded handle
+from some other implement may be utilized. The handle should be 28"
+long, and a hole should be bored and a rivet inserted 11-5/8" from one
+end. This is to reinforce the handle where the saw cut comes. This cut
+is made directly along the center of the handle and stops 11" from the
+end. If this cut is not made exactly in the center, the spreading, when
+the grip is inserted, will be unequal, and the shovel will not be in
+balance.</p>
+
+<p>The two ends of the shovel are rounded, as indicated, and the lower end
+is cut at an angle to fit the surface of the shovel.</p>
+
+<p>The grip should be cut from a 1" dowel and then cut to fit the angle
+formed by the spreading sides of the shovel.</p>
+
+<p>This is held in place by 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screws with washers, as
+indicated.</p>
+
+<p>The broad part of the shovel is cut from one piece, if possible, 1/2" &times;
+8" &times; 10-1/2", and the front end cut an angle which is reinforced with a
+piece of zinc, 3-1/4" &times; 8", bent over and held by rivets and washers, as
+shown.</p>
+
+<p>The brace under the handle is cut 3/4" &times; 1-5/8" &times; 8" and then planed
+from an upper edge to within an inch of the opposite lower edge and
+secured in place with screws. The handle is attached to the blade with
+rivets and washers, as shown on the drawing.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="THE_PERISCOPE" id="THE_PERISCOPE">THE PERISCOPE.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This is an interesting problem and demonstrates a scientific principle.</p>
+
+<p>For a periscope of the size shown in the drawing (<a href = "#Periscope">Plate 21</a>), two pieces
+of looking glass must be first cut 2-1/4" &times; 2-7/8".</p>
+
+<p>Pieces A are cut 3/8" &times; 2" &times; 4-1/4"; pieces B are 3/8" &times; 2-3/4" &times;
+4-1/4"; pieces C, 3/8" &times; 1-7/8" &times; 2-3/4"; pieces D, 3/8" &times; 2" &times; 17-1/4";
+pieces E, 3/8" &times; 2-3/4" &times; 18-7/8"; and pieces F, 3/8" &times; 2-3/4" &times;
+18-7/8".</p>
+
+<p>Two grooves 1/8" deep, and of a width to receive the thickness of the
+glass used, should be cut at an angle of 45 degrees, where indicated on
+the drawing. This groove is cut in pieces A only.</p>
+
+<p>All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1 sandpaper and finished
+with No. 0. Assemble, as shown on the drawing, using glue and 1" brads.</p>
+
+<p>The final finish may be stain or paint. Whatever finish is used should
+be of a dark color as best suited for a periscope.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Periscope"><img src="images/i_069m.jpg" width = "800" height = "482" alt = "Periscope"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 21.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_070m.jpg" width = "445" height = "600" alt = "Periscope in Use"/>
+<div class = "caption">The Periscope in Use.</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<div>
+<h2><a name="DOLLS_IRONING_BOARD_A" id="DOLLS_IRONING_BOARD_A">DOLL'S IRONING BOARD.</a><br />
+<small>(Size A.)</small></h2>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>This problem has proven very popular in toy-making classes and has been
+one of the best sellers at toy sales. It folds up compactly and is
+strong and serviceable.</p>
+
+<p>Plates <a href = "#Ironing_Board_A">22</a>, <a href = "#Ironing_Board_B">23</a> and <a href = "#Ironing_Board_C">24</a> show the ironing board in three sizes for children
+of varying ages.</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#Ironing_Board_A">Plate 22</a> is for children of about three years of age, and the material
+is prepared as follows:</p>
+
+<p>The top is first made of 1/2" lumber and is 6" wide and 20" long. Set
+the dividers with a 3" radius and strike an arc just touching the end
+and two sides of the board. Do the same on the other end, using a 2-1/2"
+radius.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_071m.jpg" width = "800" height = "584" alt = "Ironing Boards"/>
+<div class = "caption">The Three Types of Ironing Boards.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Connect these arcs with straight lines and saw and plane carefully just
+to the lines all around. The turning saw may be used on the ends.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Ironing_Board_A"><img src="images/i_072m.jpg" width = "800" height = "481" alt = "Ironing Board A"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 22.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Slightly round the upper edge of the surface which is to be uppermost.</p>
+
+<p>The legs are next cut to size, the two longer ones being 1/2" &times; 1" &times; 19"
+and the two shorter ones 1/2" &times; 1" &times; 18-3/4".</p>
+
+<p>One end of each is rounded by striking an arc with a 1-1/2" radius, at
+the extreme end. The other ends of the legs are cut off at an angle, as
+shown in the drawing.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are bored in the rounded ends of the long legs, 1/2" from the ends
+with a No. 3 bit. Another hole of similar size is bored 8-1/4" from the
+one previously bored. These holes are all 1/2" from the edges.</p>
+
+<p>On the short legs the only holes necessary are bored 8-1/4" from the
+rounded end.</p>
+
+<p>The long legs are attached by screws to a cleat which itself is screwed
+to the underside of the top of the board, as shown. This cleat is 7/8" &times;
+1-1/8" &times; 4-1/2" and is glued and held to the top by 1-1/4" flat-head
+screws, two of them being sufficient. These are countersunk.</p>
+
+<p>The separating piece at the other end of the long legs is 1/2" &times; 1" &times;
+4-9/16" and is held in place by 1-1/4" brads and glue. It is attached 2"
+from the ends.</p>
+
+<p>Two separating pieces are next made for the short legs, 1/2" &times; 1" &times;
+3-1/2", and these are attached in the same manner as the piece between
+the long legs.</p>
+
+<p>A cleat 7/8" &times; 1" &times; 3-7/16" is attached with glue and 1-1/2" flat-head
+screws, 2" from the small end of the board. This holds the short legs in
+position.</p>
+
+<p>All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper before
+being assembled. No further finish is necessary.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<div>
+<h2><a name="DOLLS_IRONING_BOARD_B" id="DOLLS_IRONING_BOARD_B">DOLL'S IRONING BOARD.</a><br />
+<small>(Size B.)</small></h2>
+</div>
+
+<p>The method of constructing this board is identical with the method
+suggested for board A. The difference is in the size of the pieces.
+(<a href = "#Ironing_Board_B">Plate 23</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>This type of ironing board is suitable for a child from four to six
+years of age.</p>
+
+<p>The top is 5/8" thick, 7-3/4" wide and 24-1/2" long.</p>
+
+<p>The curved ends are struck with the dividers in the same way as in the
+preceding problem.</p>
+
+<p>The legs are next cut to dimension, the longer ones being 9/16" &times; 1-1/8"
+&times; 24", and the shorter 9/16" &times; 1-1/8" &times; 22-1/2".</p>
+
+<p>One end of each leg is rounded by setting the dividers at 9/16" and
+cutting to the line and cutting the opposite ends at an angle, as shown
+in the drawing.</p>
+
+<p>Bore holes with a No. 3 bit in the rounded ends of the long legs, 5/8"
+from the ends and a similar hole is bored 9-1/2" from the hole
+previously bored. These holes are all 9/16" in from the edges.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Ironing_Board_B"><img src="images/i_075m.jpg" width = "800" height = "480" alt = "Ironing Board B"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 23.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>On the short legs the only holes bored are made with the same bit,
+9-3/8" from the rounded ends.</p>
+
+<p>The long legs are attached to a cleat by 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head blue
+screws, with washers under both the heads of the screws and between the
+screws and the cleat.</p>
+
+<p>The cleat is 7/8" &times; 1-1/8" &times; 5-7/8" and is glued and screwed to the
+under side of the top with 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screws.</p>
+
+<p>These are countersunk.</p>
+
+<p>The separating piece at the other end of the long legs is 3/8" &times; 1-1/8"
+&times; 5-15/16" and is held in place by 1-1/4" brads and glue, and is
+attached 3" from the end.</p>
+
+<p>Two separating pieces are next made for the short legs, 3/8" &times; 1-1/8" &times;
+4-1/2", and these are attached in the same way as the piece between the
+longer legs.</p>
+
+<p>A cleat 7/8" &times; 1-1/4" &times; 4-7/16" is attached with glue and 1-3/4"
+flat-head screws, 4" from the small end of the board. This holds the
+short legs in position. Refer to the detail on the drawing of the size A
+ironing board (<a href = "#Ironing_Board_A">Plate 22</a>) for the method of making the button which holds
+the board rigid.</p>
+
+<p>All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper before
+being assembled.</p>
+
+<p>No further finish is necessary.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<div>
+<h2><a name="DOLLS_IRONING_BOARD_C" id="DOLLS_IRONING_BOARD_C">DOLL'S IRONING BOARD.</a><br />
+<small>(Size C.)</small></h2>
+</div>
+
+<p>The method of constructing this size board is similar to the other two
+types. (<a href = "#Ironing_Board_C">Plate 24</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>This size board is suitable for children from six to eight years of age.</p>
+
+<p>The top is made 3/4" thick, 9" wide and 30" long. The dividers are set
+with a 4-1/2" radius and an arc is struck to touch the end and two sides
+of the board. A similar arc is struck at the opposite end with a 3-1/2"
+radius.</p>
+
+<p>These arcs are connected with a straight line, and the outline is cut
+with a saw and finally planed to the lines. The curved ends can be cut
+with a turning saw and finished with a chisel and file.</p>
+
+<p>The upper edges are slightly rounded with a file and sandpaper.</p>
+
+<p>The legs are next cut to size, two being 3/4" &times; 1-1/4" &times; 27-7/8", and
+the other two 3/4" &times; 1-1/4" &times; 29".</p>
+
+<p>One end of each is rounded by striking an arc with a 5/8" radius, at the
+extreme end. The other ends of the legs are cut at an angle, as shown in
+the drawing.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are bored in the rounded end of the short legs, 5/8" from the
+ends, of a size that will take a 1-3/4" No. 10 round-head blue screw.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Ironing_Board_C"><img src="images/i_078m.jpg" width = "800" height = "488" alt = "Ironing Board C"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 24.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Another hole of similar size is bored 11" from this. These holes are all
+5/8" from the edges.</p>
+
+<p>On the other two legs the only two holes necessary are bored 12-1/2"
+from the rounded ends.</p>
+
+<p>The shorter legs are attached by screws to a cleat which itself is
+screwed to the underside of the board, 4-1/2" from the large end. This
+cleat is 1" &times; 1-1/4" &times; 6-3/4" and is held in place with glue and 1-3/4"
+flat-head screws, countersunk. Two of these screws are sufficient.</p>
+
+<p>The separating piece at the other end of the legs is 3/4" &times; 1-1/4" &times;
+6-13/16", and is held in place by 1-1/2" brads and glue, and is attached
+3-1/2" from the ends.</p>
+
+<p>Two separating pieces are next made for the long legs, 3/4" &times; 1-1/4" &times;
+5-1/4", and these are attached in the same manner as the pieces between
+the other set of legs.</p>
+
+<p>A cleat 1-1/8" &times; 1-3/8" &times; 5-3/16" is attached with glue and 2" flat-head
+screws, 5-1/2" from the small end of the board. This holds the short
+legs in position.</p>
+
+<p>The wood button, shown on the drawing for the Size A ironing board
+(<a href = "#Ironing_Board_A">Plate 22</a>), is attached to this cleat and prevents the board from
+collapsing.</p>
+
+<p>All pieces should be thoroughly sandpapered with No. 1/2 sandpaper
+before being assembled.</p>
+
+<p>No further finish is necessary.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="DOLLS_CLOTHES_RACK" id="DOLLS_CLOTHES_RACK">DOLL'S CLOTHES RACK.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This folding clothes rack is an interesting toy and requires some skill
+in assembling. (<a href = "#Clothes_Rack">Plate 25</a>.)</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_080m.jpg" width = "776" height = "600" alt = "Playing House"/>
+<div class = "caption">Playing House is real fun with such a dolls' clothes
+rack, ironing board, wash bench, table and stepladder.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The four legs are cut 3/8" &times; 3/4" &times; 13" and each end is rounded by first
+striking semicircles on the ends, using a 3/8" radius, and then
+finishing with a chisel carefully to the line.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are bored in these legs with a 1/4" bit in the following places:
+3/8" from the top, 4-7/8" beyond this, 3-1/4" beyond this, and 1-3/4"
+beyond this. Extreme care must be taken not to split the wood. Bore
+through from one side until the spur of the bit just starts to come
+through, then remove the bit and bore back from the other side.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Clothes_Rack"><img src="images/i_081m.jpg" width = "800" height = "487" alt = "Clothes Rack"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 25.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Next cut the four top pieces to size, two being 3/8" &times; 3/4" &times; 6" and two
+3/8" &times; 3/4" &times; 7". These are also rounded on both ends. Holes are bored
+3/8" from each end of all of these and also half way between their ends,
+as shown in <a href = "#Clothes_Rack">Plate 25</a>.</p>
+
+<p>These pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper.</p>
+
+<p>The cross pieces are cut from 1/4" dowels as follows: Four pieces,
+8-3/4" long; six pieces, 8" long; and one piece, 7-1/4" long.</p>
+
+<p>The long dowel sticks are the ones that go at points a, b, c and d,
+Plate 25, on the outside legs. The 8" dowels go at points e, f, g, h, i,
+and j. The single short dowel goes at point k.</p>
+
+<p>Examine the drawing carefully and see that the four top pieces are
+placed on the correct dowels. Hold all dowels, which are not at movable
+points, with 3/4" brads.</p>
+
+<p>Be sure every piece is in its proper position before driving in the
+brads and then be positive that no brad is being driven at a point where
+the dowel must be free to move in the hole. It is always best to
+assemble the rack completely and by closing and opening it learn clearly
+just where the brads are to be placed.</p>
+
+<p>No further finish is necessary.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CHILDS_WASH_BENCH" id="CHILDS_WASH_BENCH">CHILD'S WASH BENCH.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This bench may be made in various sizes to fit different heights of
+children. The top consists of three slats and for the size bench shown
+in <a href = "#Wash_Bench">Plate 26</a>, the slats are made 3/8" &times; 1-3/4" &times; 18". These slats have
+screw holes bored 2-3/8" from the ends and 3/8" from the edges, as
+shown. These are countersunk to receive 1" No. 6 flat-head screws.</p>
+
+<p>Two braces are made 3/4" &times; 1/4" &times; 8". These are to support the slats.
+One inch from one end of these braces, and 5/8" from the edges, a hole
+is bored with a 3/8" bit. The same distance from the other end a similar
+hole is bored and a piece is sawed out, as shown in the drawing, to
+receive and support the dowel rod.</p>
+
+<p>The legs of the bench are cut 3/8" &times; 1" &times; 12-3/4". One-half inch from
+one end a hole is bored with a 3/8" bit. One and one-half inches from
+the other end a similar hole is bored and 7" from the same end the third
+hole is bored, making three in each leg. Care must be taken in boring
+these holes not to split the work as the bit goes through. Bore through
+on one side until the spur of the bit just starts through on the
+opposite side. Remove the bit and place the spur point in the small hole
+made by the spur and bore back in the opposite direction.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Wash_Bench"><img src="images/i_084m.jpg" width = "800" height = "486" alt = "Wash Bench"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 26.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The two cross slats forming the braces are 3/8" &times; 3/4" &times; 13". A center
+lap joint is made by cutting through half way on both slats at such an
+angle as will cause the outer edge of the slats to be about five inches
+apart. The ends of the slats should be sawed at such an angle as will
+make them flush with the sides of the legs and small holes drilled and
+countersunk so that they may be attached with 3/4" No. 4 flat-head
+screws.</p>
+
+<p>Two 3/8" dowel rods should next be cut, one being 12-1/2" long and the
+other 14" long.</p>
+
+<p>These dowels should be held in place in the legs by 3/4" brads, care
+being taken not to nail where there is to be a moving joint.</p>
+
+<p>All pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper.</p>
+
+<p>No other finish is necessary.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CHILDS_STEP_LADDER" id="CHILDS_STEP_LADDER">CHILD'S STEP LADDER.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This step ladder may be made in various sizes, the one shown here being
+suitable for children up to seven or eight years of age. (<a href = "#Ladder">Plate 27</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>The two front legs should be cut first, 5/8" &times; 2-1/4" &times; 21". It will be
+noticed that the two ends are cut off at an angle. This angle is
+obtained by measuring back on one side 1" and drawing to this point from
+the opposite corner. Make all of these angles equal and if possible cut
+them in a miter-box.</p>
+
+<p>The two rear legs, or braces, are cut 5/8" &times; 1-1/8" &times; 17-3/4", and the
+two ends are rounded. The semicircle is marked out by setting the
+dividers, or a compass, at a 9/16" radius and striking the curve tangent
+to the sides and ends of the legs.</p>
+
+<p>Two holes are bored with a No. 8 bit, 5/16" from one end of the rear
+legs and 1-1/4" from the other end, as indicated, care being taken not
+to split the wood.</p>
+
+<p>The top step is next made 5/8" &times; 5-1/4" &times; 9-3/4", and the top edges
+slightly rounded.</p>
+
+<p>Two holes are bored with a small drill, 1-1/2" from the ends of this
+step and 1" from the rear and front edges of both ends. These should be
+countersunk. Later, when assembled, this top is screwed to the braces
+with 1" No. 6 flat-head screws, as shown in the front view. (<a href = "#Ladder">Plate 27</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>Two braces are next made 5/8" &times; 2" &times; 5-1/4", and are cut off at either
+end at the same angle as were the ends of the front legs. These are
+attached to the inside of the legs, at the top, as shown in the side
+view, with four 1" No. 6 flat-head screws and glue. Care should be taken
+to get them just even with the front and top sides of the legs. Before
+the braces are attached a hole should be bored with a No. 8 bit 5/8"
+from the top edge and 1" from the left-hand edge to receive the dowel
+stick on which the rear leg swings.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Ladder"><img src="images/i_087m.jpg" width = "800" height = "488" alt = "Step Ladder"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 27.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>While boring this hole the end should be held with a clamp to prevent
+splitting.</p>
+
+<p>The two lower steps are next made. These are 5/8" thick and are cut 3"
+wide. The width is greater than is needed, and is provided that the
+steps may be planed even with the edges of the legs later. The steps are
+cut 8" in length.</p>
+
+<p>The next operation is cutting grooves for the steps to set into the
+legs, and this requires considerable care.</p>
+
+<p>The lower step is 5-3/4" from the lower end of the legs. This dimension
+is measured off on each leg, and a line is drawn parallel with the lower
+end of the leg. This may be done by either using a T bevel, set at the
+angle of the lower end of the legs, or the dimension, 5-3/4", may be
+measured up on both sides of the leg and a line drawn across.</p>
+
+<p>Next take the lower step and mark one end A and the other end B. Place
+the end A, of the lower step, evenly on this line and make a mark above
+the first line a little less than the thickness of the step. The groove
+is marked a little less than the thickness of the step so that, in case
+the saw cut is made a little wide, the step will not be likely to fit
+loosely.</p>
+
+<p>Square lines across both edges of the edge from the end of the lines
+previously drawn and measure down from the surface a distance of 1/4" on
+the edges. Draw a line through this point parallel to the edge of the
+leg.</p>
+
+<p>Next saw carefully on the lines, first drawn, down as far as this last
+line and cut the wood out with a half-inch chisel.</p>
+
+<p>If the step will not fit in the slot, plane a very slight amount from
+the surface of the step until it fits snugly into the groove.</p>
+
+<p>End B is fitted to the opposite leg in a similar way and the second step
+is placed in a like manner, 6-7/8" above the lower step.</p>
+
+<p>If the drawing is examined, as these directions for placing the steps
+are read, the explanation will be greatly simplified.</p>
+
+<p>The two narrow cross braces are next made, 3/8" &times; 5/8" &times; 15-1/2". These
+are crossed at their middle point in a middle-lap joint, a groove being
+cut half through each piece wide enough to insure a tight joint. These
+braces are attached to the rear legs, 2-1/2" from their lower ends, with
+3/4" No. 6 flat-head screws, the holes being previously bored and
+countersunk.</p>
+
+<p>Cut the ends of the braces even with the ends of the legs.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are bored with a small bit in the grooves in the legs, 1/2" in
+from the sides, as shown. These holes are for the round-head screws
+which hold the steps in place. The steps are held in the grooves of the
+legs with glue and 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Table_With_Drawer"><img src="images/i_090m.jpg" width = "800" height = "486" alt = "Doll's Table"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 28.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The dowel sticks are now cut 8-3/4" long from a 1/2" dowel and, after
+all pieces of wood are carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper, the step
+ladder is assembled.</p>
+
+<p>A 3/4" brad should be driven into the edge of the rear legs so that it
+will penetrate and hold the dowel in place.</p>
+
+<p>A piece of small chain should be fastened to each front and rear leg, as
+shown, of a length sufficient to have the front legs of the ladder set
+flat on the ground. Also take care that the two chains are even with
+each other and parallel with the ground. No further finish is required.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="DOLLS_TABLE_WITH_DRAWER" id="DOLLS_TABLE_WITH_DRAWER">DOLL'S TABLE WITH DRAWER.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>While this table may be made in various sizes, the one shown in the
+accompanying drawing has proven very popular.</p>
+
+<p>The four legs are first made 7/8" &times; 1-1/4" &times; 12". Measure down 3" from
+one end and taper the legs equally from this point to a width of 7/8" at
+the opposite ends, as shown.</p>
+
+<p>The two side rails are made 1/2" &times; 2-7/8" &times; 6-1/2". The two front rails
+above and below the drawer are cut 1/2" &times; 1/2" &times; 12".</p>
+
+<p>On the side and rear rails, centers for dowels are located 5/8" from
+the top and lower edges and half way between the sides. An inch brad is
+driven in a short distance at these points, and the head is cut off
+about 1/4" above the surface of the wood. These ends are now placed so
+that their upper edges are even with the top of the legs. Press down
+lightly on the rails and a mark will be made on the surface of the legs.</p>
+
+<p>Remove the brads and bore the dowel hole with a 1/4" bit, 1-1/4" deep.</p>
+
+<p>The two drawer rails are treated in the same manner and the holes are
+bored.</p>
+
+<p>The top will no doubt have to be made of two pieces of wood jointed and
+glued together, and reinforced with dowels.</p>
+
+<p>The finished dimensions are 3/8" &times; 12" &times; 19".</p>
+
+<p>Short blocks of wood are screwed to the rear and two side rails even
+with their tops, and screws are later put through these from their under
+side to hold the top in place. A 3/4" No. 6 screw is placed in the
+center of the upper drawer rail to assist in holding the top in place.
+(See <a href = "#Table_With_Drawer">Plate 28</a> for details of the method of attaching the top.)</p>
+
+<p>Two strips of wood 1/2" wide, and thick and long enough to fit tightly
+between the front and rear rails, are made to serve as drawer slides.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Similar strips of wood are glued to the inner part of the end rails to
+cause the drawer to run evenly. These strips are just thick enough to
+bring their surface even with the edge of the leg.</p>
+
+<p>All rails should be thoroughly sanded and then assembled with glue,
+screws, and brads as directed, the rails and legs being clamped for
+several hours to insure a tight fit.</p>
+
+<p>If the various parts of the table have been accurately made, the drawer
+should be now constructed to the dimensions called for in the drawing.
+If there has been any error in the making of the several pieces, of
+course the drawer must be made to fit the space in that individual
+table.</p>
+
+<p>The drawer front is 3/8" &times; 1-7/8" &times; 12". The sides are 1/4" &times; 1-7/8" &times;
+11-1/2". These dimensions may all have to be trimmed down somewhat to
+secure an easy sliding fit. The drawer construction is clearly shown in
+the sketch. Bottom pieces of 1/4" wood are cut to fit, and after
+sanding, all pieces are glued and bradded together.</p>
+
+<p>Handles of the size shown in the drawing may be turned on the lathe or
+made by hand, and placed as indicated.</p>
+
+<p>As this type of table is patterned after the ordinary kitchen table it
+may be left unfinished.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="COLONIAL_DOLLS_TABLE" id="COLONIAL_DOLLS_TABLE">COLONIAL DOLL'S TABLE.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This table, with the accompanying chairs shown in <a href = "#Colonial_Chair">Plate 30</a>, makes a very
+artistic and interesting problem in toy-making.</p>
+
+<p>The table and chairs work up very nicely if made of oak and stained a
+mission brown. They may also be made of soft wood and stained or
+painted. Directions for staining may be found in the front part of the
+book.</p>
+
+<p>The top (<a href = "#Colonial_Table">Plate 29</a>) is made 3/8" &times; 11" &times; 16" and, if a piece of wood 11"
+wide is not obtainable, two narrow pieces will have to be joined. (See
+method of joining wood on page <a href = "#Page_18">18</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>The four uprights are made 1" &times; 1" &times; 6-1/4", and the four cross pieces
+5/8" &times; 1" &times; 8".</p>
+
+<p>The ends of the cross pieces are cut at a bevel, as shown, and notches
+are cut 1-1/8" from each end, 1/8" deep, to receive the ends of the
+upright. Care must be taken to get a snug fit. It is better to have the
+notches a trifle too small than too large. If cut a little small, the
+uprights are easily made to fit the grooves by planing a slight amount
+from their edges.</p>
+
+<p>Four bottom pieces are made 1/4" &times; 1-1/4" &times; 1-1/4", to be attached to
+the lower cross piece, as shown, allowing 1/8" projection all around.
+They are fastened with 1/2" brads and glue. When attaching, see that the
+grain of the little square pieces runs the same as the cross pieces. On
+account of the thinness of the wood, holes may have to be bored for the
+brads. If no small drill is at hand a brad may be used as a drill.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Colonial_Table"><img src="images/i_095m.jpg" width = "800" height = "483" alt = "Colonial Table"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 29.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Holes are bored in the two upper cross pieces, 3/4" from their ends.
+These are countersunk to receive 3/4" No.6 flat-head screws, when
+assembling, and are to hold the top in place.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are likewise bored for the same size screws, 1-5/8" from each end
+of the four cross pieces, which brings the holes in the center of each
+notch. These holes are also countersunk.</p>
+
+<p>The long lower brace is made 5/16" &times; 2-1/2" &times; 12". When assembling, this
+piece is located as shown in the drawing and is held in place with glue
+and 1/2" brads.</p>
+
+<p>Sand all pieces carefully with No.1 sandpaper first and finish with No.
+0.</p>
+
+<p>If stain is to be used, it may be found easier to stain the pieces
+before assembling. Assemble as previously described, using glue where
+necessary and turning all screws up tightly. Apply final finish as
+desired.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="COLONIAL_DOLLS_CHAIR" id="COLONIAL_DOLLS_CHAIR">COLONIAL DOLL'S CHAIR.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This chair goes with the Colonial Table shown in the preceding drawing
+(<a href = "#Colonial_Table">Plate 29</a>), and at least two chairs should be made to form the set.</p>
+
+<p>The sides are first cut from 3/8" material, 5" wide and 11-1/2" long.</p>
+
+<p>A freehand curve, following the general design of the one shown, should
+be traced on a piece of paper, cut to the above size. After the outline
+is satisfactory, the design should be traced on the wood preparatory to
+cutting out. The cutting should be done with a coping saw, cutting to
+the line for a finish. Place the two sides together to see if they
+match. Variations should be trimmed down so that the pieces are exact
+duplicates.</p>
+
+<p>The back is next made, 3/8" &times; 5-1/8" &times; 10-3/4".</p>
+
+<p>The seat is made 3/8" &times; 4-1/2" &times; 5-1/8", and the front board of the seat
+measures 3/8" &times; 3-1/2" &times; 5-1/8". The seat is rounded on the front edge,
+and the front board of seat is beveled at top and bottom to set snugly
+under the seat, at the slight angle shown. This angle is obtained by
+measuring in 1-3/8" from the front, as shown in the side view.</p>
+
+<p>Sandpaper all pieces thoroughly and assemble the sides and back first,
+with glue and 3/4" brads. Set these brads below the surface and fill the
+cavity with hard beeswax. Assemble the seat and front board next, and
+then nail these between the sides of the chair, as shown in the drawing.</p>
+
+<p>Finish as desired. See Pages <a href = "#Page_15">15</a> to <a href = "#Page_18">18</a> for method of staining and
+painting.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Colonial_Chair"><img src="images/i_098m.jpg" width = "800" height = "488" alt = "Colonial Chair"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 30.</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="RING-THE-HOOK_GAME" id="RING-THE-HOOK_GAME">RING-THE-HOOK GAME.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This game is very simple in construction yet affords a great deal of
+pleasure to young people. (<a href = "#Ring_Hook">Plate 31</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>The desired outline, the dimensions for which are given in the drawing,
+is sketched on a piece of folded paper, as is shown by the sketch, and
+the design is then cut out and traced on a piece of wood cut from stock
+5/8" &times; 11" &times; 12".</p>
+
+<p>The cutting should be roughly done with a turning saw and finished
+carefully to the line with a chisel and file.</p>
+
+<p>A small chamfer gives a finished appearance if placed on the front edge.</p>
+
+<p>The board should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first, and
+then finished with No. 0. The final finish may be several coats of
+shellac or two coats of a bright lively color of paint. If a shellac
+finish is used, the numbers should be lettered in with water-proof India
+ink, after the first coat of shellac is dry, and the second coat should
+be applied over this.</p>
+
+<p>If paint is the finish selected, the numbers may be put on with the ink
+after the final coat is dry.</p>
+
+<p>Hooks are located at the various points shown on the drawing, and pains
+should be taken to get them in perpendicular to the surface of the
+board. Place a screw-hook at the top to hang up by.</p>
+
+<p>The rings used are the ordinary preserve jar rings and ten should
+constitute a set.</p>
+
+<p>The board should be placed on the wall, about five feet from the floor
+and the contestants should stand about six feet from it.</p>
+
+<p>The idea is to toss the rings in such a manner that they will land over
+the hooks. The best results are obtained by holding the ring between the
+thumb and the first two fingers, at right angles to the floor. Throw in
+such a way that the ring will strike flat against the board. With a
+little practice considerable accuracy can be developed in placing the
+rings.</p>
+
+<p>A score of one hundred should constitute a game.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="FIVE_POST_RING_TOSS" id="FIVE_POST_RING_TOSS">FIVE POST RING TOSS.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>Although the game of ring toss is an old one, yet it never loses its
+attraction for many young people, and older ones as well.</p>
+
+<p>The type of ring toss shown in the accompanying plate is a little
+variety from the regular form, each post being painted and numbered with
+the points scored by ringing that particular post. (<a href = "#Ring_Toss">Plate 32</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>The middle post, painted black, is a minus score, the ring falling on
+this causing a loss of five points.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Ring_Hook"><img src="images/i_101m.jpg" width = "800" height = "484" alt = "Ring Hook Game"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 31.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The rings, five in number, are painted at their joining points with
+colors similar to the posts. If a ring falls over a post of the same
+color as that painted on the ring the score is doubled. A black ring on
+the black post doubles the loss. The board should be set on the floor
+about eight feet from the contestants. The best results can be obtained
+by holding the rings by the thick, heavy part, parallel to the floor,
+and tossing quite high in order that they may fall flat from a point
+above the posts.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_102m.jpg" width = "775" height = "600" alt = "Ring Toss"/>
+<div class = "caption">The Ring Toss.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The posts are made with a tenon, which fits snugly in a mortise, and are
+removable so that they may be taken out when not in use. The rings may
+be made of various materials, such as rope and rattan. A very
+satisfactory ring is made by the writer's classes, by using chair
+spline. This is a rattan, light, cheap and easily bent, and may be
+bought of any firm dealing in upholstery and chair-seating materials. A
+piece about 17" long is bent in circular form, overlapping about an inch
+and held with two 1/2" brads, cleated on the underside, as shown. Wrap
+with white friction tape.</p>
+
+<p>The base of the ring toss is first cut 7/8" &times; 15" &times; 20". The center of
+each side and end is located and these points are connected, forming a
+diamond shape. Cut to this line and plane the edges smooth. Plane a 1/8"
+chamfer around the upper edge.</p>
+
+<p>Post A is made 1" &times; 1" &times; 11-3/4"; posts B and C are 1" &times; 1" &times; 8-1/4";
+post D, 1" &times; 1" &times; 5-1/4"; and post E, 1" &times; 1" &times; 6-3/4". All of these
+posts are chamfered about 1/8" at the top.</p>
+
+<p>It will be noticed, by referring to the drawing of the side view, that
+each post is an inch square for a certain distance up and from that
+point they taper to 1/2" square at the top. These measurements are
+figured from the shoulder where they rest upon the board, there being a
+1/2" tenon below. These tenons are cut so that they will be 1/2" square
+and 3/4" long.</p>
+
+<p>All holes or mortises are located 1-1/2" directly in from the corner or
+point at which they rest, except the center post, which is at the center
+point of the board. These mortises should be a fairly tight fit, yet
+allowing for the removal of the uprights when not in use.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Ring_Toss"><img src="images/i_104m.jpg" width = "800" height = "481" alt = "Ring Toss"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 32.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The color scheme is suggested on the drawing but may be changed to suit
+the individual taste. After painting or shellacking the board the first
+coat, the numbers should be lettered in, using waterproof India ink, and
+then the second coat applied.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="BEAN_BAG_GAME" id="BEAN_BAG_GAME">BEAN BAG GAME.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This is another very popular and interesting game and gives the girls in
+the domestic science course a little opportunity to show their skill in
+making the bags. These should be cut so that they will finish about four
+inches square and one end left open so that they may be filled about
+three-fourths full of beans, peas or small pebbles. The end is then
+sewed up. Burlap, ticking or any odd pieces of cloth may be used for the
+bags.</p>
+
+<p>The board itself will, no doubt, have to be glued up from two or more
+boards in order to have the finished size 20" wide by 24" long. (<a href = "#Bean_Bag">Plate
+33</a>.) Half inch bass or whitewood is suitable.</p>
+
+<p>A piece of paper should be cut 20" &times; 24" and folded so that it is 12" &times;
+20". Trace the outline on this paper, cut and unfold and lay on the
+board and trace around this. Cut to the line, using a turning saw and
+chisel and perhaps a wood file on the curves.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_106m.jpg" width = "422" height = "600" alt = "Enjoy Bean Bag Game"/>
+<div class = "caption">Boys as well as Girls enjoy the Bean Bag Game.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The openings are located, as shown by the drawing. The centers are first
+obtained, and then the widths and lengths are measured from these center
+lines. Holes are next bored, as shown by the small sketch, with a 3/4"
+bit, and either a turning or a keyhole saw is used to cut out the
+pieces. If a turning saw is used, the blade must first be unfastened at
+one end, inserted in the hole and re tightened on the opposite side.
+Finish carefully to the line with chisel and file.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Bean_Bag"><img src="images/i_107m.jpg" width = "800" height = "482" alt = "Bean Bag Game"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 33.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A small block 1/2" &times; 1-1/2" &times; 2-1/8" is attached to the back of the
+board with 3/4" No. 6 flat-head screws. This is to hold the hinge.</p>
+
+<p>The long brace is made 1/2" &times; 2-1/8" &times; 18-1/2" and is held to the small
+block by the hinge spoken of previously. A screw-eye is placed about 2"
+from the lower end of this brace and a wire or stout cord runs from this
+to similar screw-eyes, placed on the back of the main board about 2"
+from the bottom edge and 3" from the side edges. The cord or wire should
+be of sufficient length to cause the board to tip at about 60 degrees.</p>
+
+<p>After the board has been carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first and
+then finished with No. 0, the whole board should receive a coat of white
+shellac. After allowing this to dry over night, it should be rubbed down
+lightly with fine sandpaper and the numbers 2, 3 and 5 lettered on with
+black waterproof India ink. Apply another coat of shellac, or two more
+if necessary.</p>
+
+<p>Paint may be used instead of shellac as a finish, in which case the
+numbers should be put on with paint of a contrasting color to show up
+well.</p>
+
+<p>The little sketch in the drawing shows the back braces made the same as
+those on the <a href = "#Dart_Board">Dart Game Board</a>. While this is a little more difficult than
+the simple screw-eye and wire arrangement, it is much more satisfactory.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="DART_BOARD_GAME" id="DART_BOARD_GAME">DART BOARD GAME.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This game has proven very popular, not only with the young folks, but
+with the grown-ups as well. Any game where skill and accuracy may be
+developed has a strong appeal to both boys and girls as well.</p>
+
+<p>The board illustrated in <a href = "#Dart_Board">Plate 34</a>, should be made of soft wood&mdash;bass,
+pine or white wood is suitable&mdash;and cut to 15" wide by 21-1/2" long,
+from 7/8" material. The top edge is chamfered 1/4".</p>
+
+<p>The surface should be thoroughly planed and sanded and given a coat of
+white shellac. While this is drying, the rear supporting braces may be
+gotten out. The main support is 7/8" &times; 2-1/8" &times; 19". A hole is bored
+with a No. 10 bit, 1-9/16" from the end, and a piece is sawed out 5/8"
+wide from the opposite end to this hole. See the drawing for detail. A
+piece of 1/4" dowel is glued in the end to reinforce the piece, as
+shown.</p>
+
+<p>The smaller piece Y is cut 7/8" &times; 3/8" &times; 17" and is held to piece X by a
+quarter-inch dowel, as shown. A brass cup hook is screwed into the end
+which is connected with a brass screw-eye placed in the back of the
+board, 2-1/4" from the bottom edge.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_110m.jpg" width = "587" height = "600" alt = "Dart Board"/>
+<div class = "caption">The Dart Board in Use.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The small block X is 7/8" &times; 1-1/2" &times; 2-1/8" and is attached, as
+indicated, with glue and two 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws.</p>
+
+<p>The long brace X is attached to this by a 2" butt hinge and 1" flat-head
+screws.</p>
+
+<p>This folding arrangement has proven very satisfactory. The board packs
+nicely and stands rigidly when in position for playing. However, a
+simpler bracing may be used. The long brace X may be a solid piece 7/8"
+&times; 2-1/8" &times; 19", with a screw-eye on the underside from which a wire can
+run to a similar screw-eye on the back of the board. The wire can be
+adjusted so that the board will slope at the proper angle.</p>
+
+<p>After being sanded, the surface of the board should be given a coat of
+shellac and after drying should be rubbed down with No. 1/2 sandpaper.</p>
+
+<p>The circles should now be struck with a compass and waterproof ink, the
+diameters given, using a fairly heavy line. After the ink is dry give
+another coat of shellac. When this is dry the board is ready to have the
+colors applied to the circles.</p>
+
+<p>First paint circle A black and circle C red, painting just to the circle
+edge. Allow this to dry thoroughly, and then paint circle B yellow and
+circle D green. When these are dry, it may be necessary to strike all
+the circles again with ink.</p>
+
+<p>Where shown, letter in the numbers to score the game. It will be noticed
+that the small outside circles are minus numbers.</p>
+
+<p>Give the entire board and braces a finishing coat of shellac.</p>
+
+<p class="ph3"><a name="Darts" id="Darts">Darts.</a></p>
+
+<p>The darts may be whittled out by hand, but the most satisfactory ones
+are turned out on the lathe to the dimensions shown. A 1-1/2" brad
+should be driven half its length into the rounded end, the head cut off
+with cutting pliers, and the end pointed with a fine file.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Dart_Board"><img src="images/i_112m.jpg" width = "800" height = "484" alt = "Dart Board"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 34.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>At the opposite end two holes should be drilled of a size large enough
+to receive the ends of wing or tail feathers of some accommodating fowl.
+These should be dipped in glue and pressed into place.</p>
+
+<p>About six of these darts should be made and the wooden parts painted in
+bright colors. Birch or maple are good woods to use.</p>
+
+<p>The board should be placed on the floor, about ten feet from a given
+station point, and each contestant should be allowed to throw the six
+darts. The score should then be counted. Darts landing on a line should
+be credited to the lower number. One dart landing on and sticking to
+another, doubles the score of the first dart. Darts not sticking in the
+board are not allowed to be re-thrown. Darts knocked out by other darts
+lose their score.</p>
+
+<p>One thousand points should constitute a game.</p>
+
+<p>The points of the darts may be sharpened from time to time with a fine
+file.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="WIND_MILL_A" id="WIND_MILL_A">WIND MILL.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This is an interesting toy to place on the top of the shed or garage
+where the wind will have a chance to revolve the brightly colored wheel
+at a good rate. It also serves as a weather vane.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_114m.jpg" width = "440" height = "600" alt = "Kinds of Mills"/>
+<div class = "caption">Three Kinds of Wind Mills and the Sand or Water Mill.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The main part of the mill (<a href = "#Wind_Turbine">Plate 35</a>) is made up of four pieces of half
+inch stock, two being 3-1/2" &times; 4-3/4" and two 2-1/2" &times; 4-3/4". The two
+larger sides taper to 2-1/2" wide at the top and the two smaller pieces
+to 1/2". The top piece forming the roof is made from a piece of wood
+1-3/4" thick. If wood of this thickness is not available, several
+thinner pieces must be glued together. It is cut 3-1/2" &times; 3-1/2" and a
+line is drawn around the edge 3/8" from the lower sides. From this line
+the roof tapers to a point directly over the middle of the piece, as
+shown.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Wind_Turbine"><img src="images/i_115m.jpg" width = "800" height = "487" alt = "Wind Mill"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 35.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The long support, on which the mill rests, is made 1/2" &times; 1-1/4" &times;
+10-1/4". Two holes are bored and countersunk for the screws which hold
+it to the mill base. A similar hole is bored from the opposite end for
+the screw which holds in place the round piece A.</p>
+
+<p>The circular piece marked A on the side view, is made 3/8" &times; 2-1/2". A
+hole is bored 1/2" deep with a quarter inch bit on the edge. The piece C
+is a quarter inch dowel, 7-3/4" long. A hole is bored with a quarter
+inch bit in the roof, at a slant, as is shown in the side view. This
+hole is 3/8" deep.</p>
+
+<p>The dowel piece C fits in these holes when assembled, being held with
+glue.</p>
+
+<p>The smaller base piece, which is attached to the bottom of the mill with
+glue and 1" brads, is made 1/2" &times; 4" &times; 5". The small piece, on which the
+vanes of the mill turn, is made from a piece of half inch dowel, cut
+1-1/2" long. A hole is bored in the roof piece 1/2" deep to receive
+this. A smaller hole is drilled in the outer end of this dowel to
+receive a 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screw on which the vanes revolve.</p>
+
+<p>A piece is now cut 3/4" &times; 7/8" &times; 7" to serve as the supporting piece on
+which the whole mill turns. On one end a notch is cut, as shown in the
+drawing, 3/8" deep and 1-1/2" long. Two screw holes are bored in this
+notch to allow the piece to be attached to the shed or roof. On the
+opposite end a hole is bored in the center, 3/4" deep and with a drill
+that will insure a 16-penny nail fitting very tightly. One of these
+nails should be driven in and the headed end cut off so as to allow a
+projection of 1" beyond the end of the wood. The end of this nail should
+be filed smooth and round.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored to receive this in the base pieces, as shown in the
+drawing, extending through both pieces and large enough for the nail to
+turn freely within. A washer should be placed over this to insure the
+mill turning easily.</p>
+
+<p>The two pieces for the vane of the mill are made 3/4" &times; 1" &times; 5-1/2".
+Each vane is chiseled at an angle, sloping in one direction at one end
+and in the opposite direction at the other, allowing at least 1/8" for
+the thickness. Considerable pains should be used in shaping these vanes
+to insure even balance. File and sand these smooth.</p>
+
+<p>A middle lap joint is made exactly in the center of each vane, cutting
+half through on each piece and making a smooth, flush fit. Hold the
+vanes together with glue and 1/2" brads at this point and carefully bore
+a hole at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> the center large enough to allow a 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head
+screw to turn easily.</p>
+
+<p>A small washer is placed under the head of the screw and one between the
+rear of the vanes and the end of the supporting dowel. Turn the screw up
+tight enough to allow the vanes to clear nicely.</p>
+
+<p>All pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first and
+finished with No. 0. Paint all pieces before assembling.</p>
+
+<p>A suggested color scheme is shown in the drawing.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<div>
+<h2><a name="WIND_MILL_B" id="WIND_MILL_B">WIND MILL.</a><br />
+<small>(Type B.)</small></h2>
+</div>
+
+<p>This is another interesting action toy and makes a very pleasing
+addition to the top of a garage or barn. (<a href = "#Wind_Toy">Plate 36</a>.) Children also enjoy
+toys of this sort at the beaches where they can build up little villages
+in the sand.</p>
+
+<p>The four long uprights are made 1/2" &times; 1/2" &times; 19". The top piece, which
+is eight sided, is first made 1/2" &times; 3-1/4" &times; 3-1/4". Then 3/4" is
+measured in from each corner and these points are connected and the
+lines cut carefully with a saw. A hole is bored in the center with a bit
+a little smaller than a 1-3/4" No. 8 screw.</p>
+
+<p>The piece to which the long uprights are attached is next made, 1/2" &times;
+2-1/4" &times; 2-1/4". Measure in from each corner, on the upper surface,
+5/8", and from each corner on the lower edge measure in 1/2". Draw
+these sloping lines from top to bottom points and saw these corner
+pieces out very carefully. A hole is bored in the center of this piece
+similar to the hole bored in the previous piece.</p>
+
+<p>Attach the long uprights to this piece with glue and 1-1/4" brads,
+trimming the top ends of the uprights with a chisel and file until they
+are flush with the surface of the top piece.</p>
+
+<p>Carefully spread the uprights until they are 9-1/2" apart from outside
+to outside, as shown. Mark off points on the inside edges 4" up from the
+bottom ends and 7-1/4" above the first marks. These points are to locate
+the places where the cross pieces go.</p>
+
+<p>Cut the eight cross braces 1/2" &times; 1/2" and sufficiently long to fit
+nicely at these points between the uprights. It will be noticed that
+they will have to be cut at a slight angle. Attach these braces with
+glue and 1-1/4" brads, seeing that they are all even and parallel with
+the floor when setting upright.</p>
+
+<p>The angle braces are made 1/2" &times; 1/2" &times; 11" and cross each other with a
+halved joint, as shown. The ends are cut at an angle to conform to the
+slope of the uprights and are attached to them by 1" brads and glue.</p>
+
+<p>Piece E is now made, 1-1/4" &times; 1-1/4" &times; 2", and is tapered to 3/4" square
+at the upper end. This is done by measuring in 1/4" from each upper
+corner and drawing to the lower corners and cutting to the line. A
+small hole is bored in the center of the upper end to start the screw
+which holds piece B in place.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Wind_Toy"><img src="images/i_120m.jpg" width = "800" height = "486" alt = "Wind Mill B"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 36.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Piece B is made 3/4" &times; 3/4" &times; 5-1/2" and has a slot cut in it, 1/4" wide
+and 2-3/8" long, as shown. The inside end of the slot is cut at a slight
+angle to receive the slope of tailpiece C. A hole is bored 3-1/4" from
+the slot end of this piece, of a size to turn freely on a 1-1/2" No. 8
+round-head screw.</p>
+
+<p>Tail C is made 1/4" &times; 4" &times; 6" and then 1/2" is measured up from the
+lower right end corner and 1/2" measured in from this point toward the
+left and a dot is placed. Draw lines from this dot to the
+lower-left-hand corner and to the upper-right-hand corner. Round all of
+these corners, using a 1/2" radius and carefully finish to the lines all
+around.</p>
+
+<p>The vanes A must be very carefully made to insure a close fit and proper
+balance. Two pieces are cut 7/8" &times; 1-1/4" &times; 7". The method of forming
+the vanes will be more easily understood by referring to the detail,
+where every measurement is plainly given. The two vanes are joined with
+a middle lap joint, which requires considerable skill in forming. Each
+piece is cut half way through at its middle point, seeing that the
+groove is no wider than the width of the piece that goes within it.</p>
+
+<p>The two vanes are joined with glue and four 3/4" brads.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored in the center, of a size that will turn easily on a
+1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screw.</p>
+
+<p>Sand all pieces well with No. 1/2 sandpaper.</p>
+
+<p>Paint the various pieces as suggested in the color scheme and attach the
+tail C to piece B with glue and 1/2" brads.</p>
+
+<p>The vanes A are attached to piece B with a 1-1/2" round-head screw, with
+washers under the screw head and between the vanes and piece B. Piece B
+is attached to block E with a 1-1/2" round-head screw, with washers
+under the screw head and between B and E.</p>
+
+<p>Have all movable parts so that they will move freely.</p>
+
+<p>A finish nail may be placed in the lower part of each leg to secure the
+mill to the desired location.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="SAND_OR_WATER_MILL" id="SAND_OR_WATER_MILL">SAND OR WATER MILL.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This is an interesting beach toy as either fine sand or water may be
+used to operate it. (<a href = "#Sand_Mill">Plate 37</a>.) It is very simple to construct and is
+made as follows: The base is constructed of 1/2" pine, 7-1/2" wide and
+7-1/2" long; and the four blocks which are glued and bradded to the
+corners, are 1/2" &times; 1" &times; 1". The two uprights are 3/4" &times; 7/8" &times; 8-1/4",
+and the two cross supports at the tops measure 3/4" &times; 7/8" &times; 2-1/2".</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Sand_Mill"><img src="images/i_123m.jpg" width = "800" height = "481" alt = "Sand or Water Mill"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 37.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Two holes are bored in the base for the screws that hold the uprights in
+place. These holes are 2-3/4" from the end and 2-1/8" from the sides.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are bored in the little top braces 1/2" from the two ends and one
+just in the middle, or 1-1/4" from the ends. These are for the screws
+that hold the braces to the uprights and to the top piece. All holes are
+bored with a drill suitable to take 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws, and
+all are countersunk on the side where the screw enters.</p>
+
+<p>The top piece is made 1/2" &times; 5-1/4" &times; 5-1/2" with the two front corners
+slightly rounded, as shown.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored of a size to receive the funnel used, 1-1/2" from the
+front edge and 2-5/8" from the sides.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is drilled in each upright piece, 3-1/2" from the lower end, of a
+size that will insure a driving fit to the wire used, in this case being
+a piece of No. 12 copper-dipped, 4-3/4" long.</p>
+
+<p>A piece of 3/4" dowel is cut off 7/8" long and a similar hole is bored
+about two-thirds of the way through, as shown.</p>
+
+<p>Four holes are bored, as indicated on the drawing, for the quills, which
+are later glued in place. Feathers from the poultry yard will furnish
+these.</p>
+
+<p>Sand all pieces with No. 1 sandpaper and first assemble the top, the
+two uprights and the two cross supports. Paint these two coats of red
+paint.</p>
+
+<p>Attach the cross blocks to the base with glue and 3/4" brads and paint
+two coats of yellow. Paint the tunnel two coats of bright green.</p>
+
+<p>While these are drying construct the paddle wheel. The piece through
+which the wire axle runs is 3/4" &times; 3/4" &times; 2-1/4". The four blades are
+1/4" &times; 2-1/4" &times; 2-3/4".</p>
+
+<p>After these are sanded and a hole is bored through the center piece,
+nail the blades to the center piece, in the position shown in the side
+view. Use 3/4" brads and glue for fastening the blades. Paint two coats
+of yellow.</p>
+
+<p>When the parts so far assembled are thoroughly dry, finish the assembly,
+using 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws and glue.</p>
+
+<p>The toy is now ready to operate.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="DOLLS_CRADLE" id="DOLLS_CRADLE">DOLL'S CRADLE.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>A cradle built according to <a href = "#Cradle4Doll">Plate 38</a> is suitable for a doll sixteen or
+seventeen inches in length.</p>
+
+<p>The two sides should be first made 1/2" &times; 6-1/2" &times; 20". These are later
+beveled slightly on their lower edge to conform to the slope of the head
+and foot board.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Cradle4Doll"><img src="images/i_126m.jpg" width = "800" height = "488" alt = "Doll's Cradle"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 38.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Measure from one end along the top edge 7-1/4" and from the other end
+11-1/4". From this last end the width of the side is cut down to 4-1/2",
+as far as the 11-1/4" measurement previously made. Connect the point
+which is 7-1/4" from the left end with the point which is 11-1/4" from
+the right end. This gives a slope of approximately 30 degrees, as is
+shown in the side view. Slightly round the corners, as indicated.</p>
+
+<p>The head board is next made 1/2" &times; 7" &times; 8-3/4".</p>
+
+<p>Measure in, on one of the long edges, an inch from either corner, and
+from these points draw straight lines to the upper corners. Cut
+carefully to this line. This makes the lower edge 6-3/4" long. The upper
+corners are rounded, as shown.</p>
+
+<p>The foot board is made in a similar manner, first cutting it 1/2" &times; 5" &times;
+8". Place the head and foot board together to see if they exactly
+correspond. If not, plane or saw them while together so they are exactly
+alike, except in height.</p>
+
+<p>The four pieces so far completed may now be assembled, using glue and 1"
+brads.</p>
+
+<p>See that this frame sets flat when placed on a level surface.</p>
+
+<p>The base is next made 1/2" &times; 8-3/4" &times; 20". The two rockers are cut 3/4"
+&times; 2-3/4" &times; 13-1/2".</p>
+
+<p>It is a good plan to cut a piece of paper the above size, fold across
+the short way and sketch on the folded surface one-half the rocker
+shape. When this has been done in a satisfactory manner it may be
+unfolded, cut out and drawn on wood. The rocker ends have a slight
+shoulder of 1/8", as shown. In sloping the rockers, get them alike and
+make the curve such as will cause them to rock with a very slight
+pressure.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_128m.jpg" width = "553" height = "600" alt = "Types of Cradle"/>
+<div class = "caption">Two Types of Doll Cradles.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Holes are bored with a small drill in the base, 2-1/2" from the ends and
+1-1/2" from the sides. A hole is also bored half way between the two, as
+shown, and all are countersunk on the upper side.</p>
+
+<p>Attach the rockers with glue and 1" No. 6 flat-head screws.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>See that they project equally on the sides and are square with the
+edges.</p>
+
+<p>Now nail the rocker base to the upper frame previously made, using 1"
+brads and glue. Have the base project equally from the upper frame on
+each side and come flush with the ends.</p>
+
+<p>All pieces should have been carefully sanded, of course, before
+assembling.</p>
+
+<p>The next, and last step is the final finish. If paint is to be the
+finish, select the desired color and apply a priming and a finish coat.
+Follow directions in the front of the book for painting.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="COLONIAL_DOLL_CRADLE" id="COLONIAL_DOLL_CRADLE">COLONIAL DOLL CRADLE.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>The type of cradle, shown in <a href = "#Colonial_Cradle">Plate 39</a>, is similar in many ways to the
+one on the last plate. It is, however, more artistic and somewhat more
+difficult to make.</p>
+
+<p>Follow directions on the last plate for making rockers, base and
+footboard.</p>
+
+<p>The headboard is cut 1/2" &times; 8-3/4" &times; 10-7/8".</p>
+
+<p>Place a center line, longways of the piece, as shown in the end view. At
+the top measure 1-1/4" each side of the center line and make a dot. At
+the base measure 3-3/8" each side of the center line and place a dot.</p>
+
+<p>Measure 1-3/4" from the top edge, on each side. Connect these points, as
+shown in the end view. Cut carefully to the lines. Test the head and
+footboard to see if they compare.</p>
+
+<p>Make the two sides of the cradle next 1/2" &times; 9-1/4" &times; 20".</p>
+
+<p>Seven inches from one end and 6-1/4" from the lower edge strike a circle
+1-3/8" in radius. From the lower edge of this circle draw a line
+parallel to the base. This will make the narrow part of the sides 4-1/2"
+wide.</p>
+
+<p>From the point directly over the center of the circle, square a line to
+the top edge of the side. The outline of the side is now ready to be cut
+out. If an expansive bit is obtainable, bore the hole from the center of
+the circle with the bit set at 1-3/8" radius. If this bit is not
+obtainable, the hole must be cut out with a key-hole or a turning saw
+after first cutting to the circle, along the other lines previously
+drawn.</p>
+
+<p>The short top edge of the sides should now be beveled to conform to the
+slope of the head board.</p>
+
+<p>Next make the two top pieces which form the sloping part of the roof.
+These are 1/2" &times; 5-1/4" &times; 7-3/4". These must be planed at their top edge
+to quite a sharp bevel until they are even with the top of the head
+board.</p>
+
+<p>The top piece is the final piece cut, and this is 1/2" &times; 4-3/4" &times;
+7-3/4".</p>
+
+<p>The pieces should now be carefully sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper and the
+sides and ends assembled with glue and 1" brads.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Colonial_Cradle"><img src="images/i_131m.jpg" width = "800" height = "486" alt = "Colonial Cradle"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 39.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The roof pieces are next placed. Be sure that the top piece sits flat
+and overhangs equally on both sides.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are bored in the bottom piece for screws, 2-7/8" from the ends and
+1-1/2" from the sides. A third hole is bored at each end half way
+between the other two, as shown, and all are countersunk.</p>
+
+<p>Attach the rockers with glue and 1" flat-head screws, being careful that
+they project equally on both sides and are at right angles with the
+edges of the base.</p>
+
+<p>The final finish is optional, but if the cradle is to be painted or
+enameled it should first receive a priming coat of flat white. See
+directions for painting in the first part of the book.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="DOLLS_BED" id="DOLLS_BED">DOLL'S BED.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>The bed illustrated in <a href = "#Bed4Doll">Plate 40</a>, is suitable for the ordinary size doll,
+16" to 18" in length.</p>
+
+<p>The four legs should first be cut, the two long ones being 7/8" &times; 7/8" &times;
+12" and the two short ones 7/8" &times; 7/8" &times; 9-1/4".</p>
+
+<p>These should be planed up square and smooth and the top edges chamfered
+1/16", as shown.</p>
+
+<p>The two side rails are next made 3/8" &times; 2-1/2" &times; 20-1/2".</p>
+
+<p>The four cross rails, two on the head board and two on the foot board,
+are made 1/2" &times; 7/8" &times; 8-3/4".</p>
+
+<p>Seven slats are next made 3/8" &times; 1-1/4" &times; 8".</p>
+
+<p>Two long supporting slats, on which the seven slats previously made
+rest, are now made 3/8" &times; 1" &times; 19-1/4".</p>
+
+<p>Three upright slats are now made for the head board, two being 3/8" &times;
+1-3/4" &times; 8", and one 3/8" &times; 3" &times; 8". Three similar slats are made for
+the foot board, two 3/8" &times; 1-3/4" &times; 5-1/4" and one 3/8" &times; 3" &times; 5-1/4".</p>
+
+<p>Seven holes should be carefully bored where the cross rails and legs are
+joined. Use a small drill about 1/8" in diameter.</p>
+
+<p>These holes are 2-1/2" up from the bottom end of the legs and 1" down
+from the top ends. In assembling these parts, use glue, brads and 1-1/2"
+No. 8 round-head screws, as shown on the drawing. Next place the slats,
+as indicated, using glue and 1-1/4" brads. Take pains to space these
+properly and center them on the cross piece. All brad holes, wherever
+placed, should be set with a nail set and the hole filled with hard
+beeswax.</p>
+
+<p>In nailing in the brads, rest the bottom support on the corner of the
+bench, so as not to strain the cross piece or legs in pounding with the
+hammer.</p>
+
+<p>Next attach the long side rails, having their ends come flush with the
+outer side of the leg. Use glue and 1" brads. See that the rails are
+attached square with the long edges of legs. The two shorter supporting
+rails (3/8" &times; 1" &times; 19-1/4"), are next nailed to the lower cross pieces
+at the head and foot of the bed, and close up against the long side
+rails. A few brads, 1" long, should be driven through from the side
+rails into these to help secure them in place.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Bed4Doll"><img src="images/i_134m.jpg" width = "800" height = "488" alt = "Doll's Bed"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 40.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The seven cross slats are carefully spaced, glued, and nailed in place
+with 1/2" brads. While nailing, place a block of wood beneath the ends
+for a bearing.</p>
+
+<p>All pieces should have been sanded previous to assembling, and the bed
+may now be either stained or painted. If painted, a priming coat should
+be applied first. After this has dried it should be carefully sanded
+with No. 0 sandpaper and the finish coat applied.</p>
+
+<p>Considerable care should be taken in the painting to insure a good,
+clean-cut job. Refer back to the first of the book for necessary
+instructions for painting.</p>
+
+<p>There is an opportunity here for the older sister to help in preparing
+the bedding.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="TWO_TYPES_OF_STILTS" id="TWO_TYPES_OF_STILTS">TWO TYPES OF STILTS.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p class="ph3">(Type A Stilt.)</p>
+
+<p>Most every boy knows there is a certain fascination in walking on
+stilts, but they may prove a dangerous pastime if not strongly made.</p>
+
+<p>In this style of stilt (Type A, <a href = "#Stilt">Plate 41</a>) the uprights are held beneath
+the arm pits.</p>
+
+<p>The upright pieces should be made 7/8" &times; 1-3/8" &times; 5', or as long as the
+boy desires. Hard pine or ash make strong, durable stilts. The edges of
+the upright should be slightly rounded so that they will fit the hand
+nicely.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_136m.jpg" width = "389" height = "600" alt = "Stilts"/>
+<div class = "caption">Two Kinds of Stilts.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Holes are bored with a 1/4" bit, 17" from the lower end and 2-1/2"
+apart, as shown. The upper hole is countersunk to receive a 2-1/2" No.
+12 flat-head screw.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Stilt"><img src="images/i_137m.jpg" width = "800" height = "491" alt = "Stilts"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 41.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The foot rests are made 1" &times; 3-1/2" &times; 5" and shaped, as indicated on the
+drawing.</p>
+
+<p>They are secured to the uprights with screws and 1/4" &times; 3" round-head
+stove bolts. Several holes at various eighths could be bored to allow of
+adjusting the foot rest to suit the user of the stilt.</p>
+
+<p>The uprights can be painted red and the foot rests green, or the whole
+can be left plain, according to the desires of the maker. A touch of
+paint, however, not only adds to the appearance of any article, but also
+preserves it and lengthens its life.</p>
+
+
+<p class="ph3">(Type B Stilt.)</p>
+
+<p>Type B stilt (<a href = "#Stilt">Plate 41</a>) is made shorter than Type A and is to be
+strapped to the leg just above the knee.</p>
+
+<p>The uprights are 1" &times; 1-3/8" &times; 36", or longer if desired.</p>
+
+<p>Round the edges of the uprights and bore holes at the same places and of
+the same size as in Type A.</p>
+
+<p>A strap is screwed on, as is shown in the drawing, to support the feet,
+and another strap, long enough to go around the leg beneath the knee, is
+attached at the upper end, 2" from the top.</p>
+
+<p>Sandpaper thoroughly and finish to suit.</p>
+
+<p>A pole about seven feet long should be carried to balance and steady
+oneself.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_139m.jpg" width = "669" height = "600" alt = "Carts and Dump Wagon"/>
+<div class = "caption">Two Kinds of Carts and a Dump Wagon (in front).</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CHILDS_CART" id="CHILDS_CART">CHILD'S CART.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>Carts always appeal to youngsters and the one given here (<a href = "#Cart">Plate 42</a>) is
+of simple construction.</p>
+
+<p>Make the side pieces first 1/2" &times; 6" &times; 10". On one long edge measure in
+2-1/2" and from this point draw a line to the upper corner. Cut
+carefully to this line. The front piece is made 1/2" &times; 6" &times; 6" and the
+end piece 1/2" &times; 6" &times; 6-3/4". This end piece is beveled to conform to
+the top and bottom edges of the cart, as shown in the side view.</p>
+
+<p>The bottom piece is made 1/2" &times; 6" &times; 6-1/2".</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Cart"><img src="images/i_140m.jpg" width = "800" height = "483" alt = "Child's Cart"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 42.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The piece to which the wheels are attached, is made 7/8" &times; 1" &times; 7-1/8".
+This piece has two holes bored and countersunk in it for screws, 1-1/4"
+from the ends and half way between the sides.</p>
+
+<p>Two small blocks are made 1/2" &times; 1" &times; 2-1/2" and tapered 3/4", as shown.
+These blocks have holes bored and countersunk for screws. Bore the holes
+in such a manner that they will not come directly opposite each other,
+otherwise the screws will be likely to hit each other.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are bored in the front piece of the cart and countersunk on the
+inner side. These pieces are 3" from either side, the first one being
+2-1/4" from the upper edge and the second an inch below the first.</p>
+
+<p>The handle measures 7/8" &times; 1" &times; 30". A hole is bored 5/8" from the front
+end with a half-inch bit and the extreme end of the handle is slightly
+chamfered for a finish. The opposite end of the handle is cut at an
+angle of 30&deg;, as shown.</p>
+
+<p>A piece of dowel, 1/2" in diameter and 3" long, is cut and inserted in
+the hole in the handle and secured by driving an inch brad in from the
+under side of the handle.</p>
+
+<p>The wheels are 7/8" &times; 5" and may be cut out with a turning saw and
+trimmed to the line with a chisel, or, if a lathe is available, they can
+quickly be cut to size. If they are to be sawed out, a circle should be
+struck with a divider or compass set at a 2-1/2" radius and then
+carefully cut to the line.</p>
+
+<p>The axle is attached to the bottom piece with glue and 1-1/4" No. 8
+flat-head screws.</p>
+
+<p>Bore a hole in the end of the axle, exactly in the center, using a drill
+slightly smaller than the screw that is to hold the wheels in position.
+Bore a hole in each wheel, at the center point, a little larger than the
+screw that is to be used. Attach the wheels with 1-1/2" No. 10
+round-head blue screws, using a small washer under the screw head and
+also between the wheel and the cart body. Tighten the screw just enough
+to allow a little play for the wheels to turn easily.</p>
+
+<p>Sand all pieces thoroughly before assembling, using No. 1 sandpaper
+first and finishing with No. 0. Assemble the body part of the cart with
+glue and 1" brads.</p>
+
+<p>A suggested color scheme is given in the drawing.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CHILDS_DUMP_WAGON" id="CHILDS_DUMP_WAGON">CHILD'S DUMP WAGON.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This toy at once appeals to the children as it only requires a simple
+turn of the crank to quickly dump the load of sand.</p>
+
+<p>Each part of this toy is completely detailed in <a href = "#Wagon_Detail">Plate 44</a>, while <a href = "#Dump_Wagon">Plate 43</a>
+gives the assembly drawing.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Dump_Wagon"><img src="images/i_143m.jpg" width = "800" height = "482" alt = "Dump Wagon"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 43.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The two sides are first made 1/2" &times; 5-1/2" &times; 12", and the two ends 1/2"
+&times; 6" &times; 7-1/2". The sides are beveled about 1/8" on the lower edge so
+that they will conform to the angle of the end piece. The ends taper
+from 7-1/2" long at the top to 5-5/8" at the bottom. This angle is
+obtained by measuring in 15/16" from either side and drawing to the
+opposite upper corner. Saw and finish to this line and slightly round
+the upper corners, as shown. Bore a hole with a 1/2" bit at the point
+indicated.</p>
+
+<p>The bottom piece is made 1/2" &times; 6-5/8" &times; 12".</p>
+
+<p>Sand these five pieces and assemble, using 1-1/4" brads and glue. Plane
+the side edges of the bottom board to the same angle as the slope of the
+sides.</p>
+
+<p>The two end uprights are now made 1/2" &times; 6-3/4" &times; 8". Measure up 2-1/4"
+on the short edges and place a dot. Connect these points with a sloping
+line and saw and finish to the outline shown. Bore holes with a 1/2" bit
+at the place indicated. Locate and bore a screw hole 1/2" up from the
+center of the lower edge to attach brace block.</p>
+
+<p>Make two small supporting blocks 7/8" &times; 1-3/4" &times; 1-3/4". Bore a 1/2"
+hole carefully in the center and drill four smaller holes to receive
+1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws, 3/8" from each other, as shown.
+Countersink these four holes.</p>
+
+<p>Glue and screw these blocks to the end of the wagon box, 1-1/4" from the
+top edge, as shown.</p>
+
+<p>Make two brace blocks by first cutting out a square 7/8" &times; 1" &times; 1" and
+cutting this in two diagonally from corner to corner. Glue and screw
+these blocks to the end uprights, using 1" No. 6 flat-head screws.</p>
+
+<p>The underbody should next be made 1/2" &times; 8" &times; 18-1/2".</p>
+
+<p>Measure in 3-1/4" from each corner on the long edge, and with the
+dividers set at 2-1/4", strike a quarter circle and connect these arcs
+with straight lines, making the width in the middle 4-1/2". Saw this out
+with a coping saw and finish smoothly to the line.</p>
+
+<p>Locate and drill the twelve screw holes shown, with a drill the size of
+a No. 6 screw.</p>
+
+<p>Countersink all holes, except the four holes which hold the supports for
+the cart handle. These four are not countersunk as 1" No. 6 round-head
+screws are used at these points.</p>
+
+<p>Attach the end uprights to the underbody with glue and 1" No. 6
+flat-head screws, eight in all.</p>
+
+<p>Next make the two axles 7/8" &times; 1" &times; 8-1/4" and bore and countersink the
+three holes, on the narrow edge, at the points indicated. Glue and screw
+these in place, 1-1/4" from the front and rear ends, using 1-1/4" No. 8
+flat-head screws. These axles project 1/8" beyond the sides of the
+underbody, on all sides, so as to allow the wheels to turn without
+interference.</p>
+
+<p>The wheels may be made on a lathe or with a turning saw, 7/8" thick and
+all exactly 4" in diameter. Bore a hole in their center with a drill a
+little larger than the wire of a 2" No. 10 round-head screw. When
+assembling, use a washer on each side of the wheel.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Wagon_Detail"><img src="images/i_146m.jpg" width = "800" height = "480" alt = "Dump Wagon Details"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 44.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A hole should be started about 3/8" deep in the center of the ends of
+the axle to insure the screws going in properly.</p>
+
+<p>The cart handle is made 1/2" &times; 1" &times; 30", with one end rounded and the
+opposite end chamfered 1/8". On the latter end measure in 5/8" on the
+wide side and bore a hole carefully with a 1/2" bit. Cut a piece from a
+1/2" dowel, 3-1/4" long, and insert it in this hole, keeping it in place
+with glue and one 7/8" brad.</p>
+
+<p>Bore a hole 1/2" from the rounded end with a 3/16" bit.</p>
+
+<p>The two pieces which hold the handle are now made 3/4" &times; 7/8" &times; 2-3/4".
+A 3/16" hole is bored in the 7/8" edge of these pieces, 1/2" from the
+end. These holes, and the hole in the handle, are to receive a
+round-head stove bolt, which is 3/16" &times; 2-1/4".</p>
+
+<p>Glue and screw these two pieces in place in the center of the front end
+of the underbody, leaving about 1/16" space between the handle and the
+edges of the blocks for freedom of movement.</p>
+
+<p>The dumping handle is made of pieces of dowel, the main piece being 1"
+in diameter by 4-1/2" long. The other pieces are cut from a half-inch
+dowel, 3" and 3-1/2" long, respectively.</p>
+
+<p>On the main dowel bore holes with a 1/2" bit, 3/4" from the ends, to
+receive the shorter dowels. Glue and insert the 3-1/4" dowel and bore a
+small hole to receive a 7/8" No. 6 round-head screw. Place this screw
+and then insert the dowel through the front upright into the front
+supporting block and flush with the inner surface of the front box end.
+Hold in place in the block with glue and a 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head
+screw.</p>
+
+<p>Glue and screw the 3" dowel in place for the grip.</p>
+
+<p>A piece of 1/2" dowel, 2" long, is similarly placed through the rear
+upright, thence into the rear supporting block and box end.</p>
+
+<p>This is also held with glue and a 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screw through
+the block.</p>
+
+<p>Sand and apply two coats of paint before assembling the wheels and
+handle.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<div>
+<h2><a name="CHILDS_WHEELBARROW_A" id="CHILDS_WHEELBARROW_A">CHILD'S WHEELBARROW.</a><br />
+<small>(Type A.)</small></h2>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Child's Wheelbarrow, shown in <a href = "#Barrow4Child">Plate 45</a>, is very serviceable and
+quite easy to make, and, if the directions are followed carefully, the
+result will be a toy that will outlast a majority of the toys ordinarily
+found on the store shelves.</p>
+
+<p>First, make the handles 7/8" &times; 1-1/4" &times; 30". Chamfer the handles, as
+shown, for four inches from one end.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The two sides are made 1/2" &times; 5-1/2" &times; 15" and 1-1/2" is measured in on
+one long edge and a line drawn from this point to the lower corner. Saw
+and plane to this line and round the upper corner with a chisel and
+file.</p>
+
+<p>The end is 3/8" &times; 5-1/2" &times; 7-1/4". The bottom is first cut 1/2" &times; 11" &times;
+14". On one end measure in 1-7/8" from one side and a like distance from
+the other side. Connect these points with the opposite extreme corners
+and finish to these lines. The bottom is now tapered to 7-1/4" wide at
+the front end.</p>
+
+<p>Assemble the sides, the bottom and the end with glue and 1-1/2" finish
+nails, setting the front piece back 1/4" from the end of the sides, as
+shown in the drawing. Set all nails below the surface and fill the holes
+with beeswax.</p>
+
+<p>Place the assembled part on the handles in such a manner that the front
+end of the box part of the wheelbarrow is 5" from the front end of the
+handles, and the handles at the front end are 2" apart inside, and at
+the grip end 13" apart outside.</p>
+
+<p>While in this position, which is the permanent assembling position, mark
+the position of the six screw holes, which are bored with a drill of a
+size to receive a 1" No. 6 flat-head screw. Countersink these holes.</p>
+
+<p>The two legs are made 7/8" &times; 1" &times; 8-3/4" and beveled 1/4" at the lower
+end. On the upper end a notch is cut out 3/8" deep by 1-1/4" long. Two
+holes are bored, as indicated, to attach the leg to the handle. This is
+done with glue and 1" No. 6 round-head screws.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_150m.jpg" width = "595" height = "600" alt = "Wheelbarrows"/>
+<div class = "caption">Wheelbarrows.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>A 1/2" dowel rod runs between the legs to brace them, and a hole is
+bored 3/8" deep in each leg, 2-1/2" from the lower end. The dowel is 9"
+long and is held in place with glue, and a 3/4" brad is driven in the
+leg to hold it firmly in place.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Barrow4Child"><img src="images/i_151m.jpg" width = "800" height = "483" alt = "Child's Wheelbarrow A"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 45.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "WheelbarrowB"><img src="images/i_152m.jpg" width = "800" height = "481" alt = "Child's Wheelbarrow B"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 46.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored very carefully 1-1/4" from the front end of the handles
+to receive the wheel axle. It will be noticed, by referring to the top
+view of the drawing, that on account of the taper of the handles this
+hole must be bored slightly on a slant and about half way through. The
+bit should be of a size to allow a piece of sixteen-penny nail to turn
+freely, as the axle should be made of a nail of this size, cut 3" long.</p>
+
+<p>The wheel is best made of hard wood, such as maple, 7/8" thick and 6" in
+diameter.</p>
+
+<p>Bore the hole in the center with the same drill just used.</p>
+
+<p>Next cut two pieces from a 1/2" dowel, 3/8" long, and bore a similar
+hole exactly through their center. These two pieces of dowel are glued
+to the wheel and serve to make it run in the center. When assembling,
+place a small washer between the dowels and handle, as shown.</p>
+
+<p>All pieces should have been carefully sanded before assembling, and the
+wheel should be painted red and allowed to dry before being put in
+place. The remainder of the wheelbarrow should be painted bright green.
+Apply two coats, rubbing down the first coat when dry with No. 0
+sandpaper before applying the second.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<div>
+<h2><a name="CHILDS_WHEELBARROW_B" id="CHILDS_WHEELBARROW_B">CHILD'S WHEELBARROW.</a><br />
+<small>(Type B.)</small></h2>
+</div>
+
+<p>This style wheelbarrow (Plates <a href = "#WheelbarrowB">46</a> and <a href = "#Detail_BarrowB">47</a>) is planned exceptionally
+strong and sturdy and will stand a large amount of hard usage. It is
+made larger and stronger than Type A, and is naturally a little more
+difficult to make, but well within the ability of an eighth grade boy.
+This type has removable sideboards.</p>
+
+<p>The plate of details gives exact information how to make each piece, so
+it will not be necessary to give the directions here.</p>
+
+<p>After all pieces are correctly made and all holes are bored at the
+places indicated, each part should be sanded very carefully and made
+ready for assembling.</p>
+
+<p>Care should be taken to get good tight joints on the front brace, the
+wheel supports and the tops of the legs.</p>
+
+<p>The metal braces can be made from strips of zinc 1" &times; 4", bent over the
+braces W, allowing a little freedom for removing the sideboards. Holes
+should be drilled in these braces, where shown, to receive 1/2" No. 6
+round-head screws.</p>
+
+<p>First attach the bottom boards to the handles with 1" No. 6 flat-head
+screws, placing the ends of the handles even with the front of the
+bottom board and flush with the side edges.</p>
+
+<p>Next fasten the front and rear brace in place with 1-1/2" No. 8
+flat-head screws, on the under side, and with 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head
+screws and washers from the outside of the handle to the brace ends.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Detail_BarrowB"><img src="images/i_155m.jpg" width = "800" height = "480" alt = "Details Wheelbarrow B"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 47.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Fasten one wheel brace in its proper place with 1" No. 6 flat-head
+screws from the upper side of the bottom board.</p>
+
+<p>Place the axle of the wheel in the hole and attach the other wheel in
+the same manner.</p>
+
+<p>Glue and screw the front uprights in place, as indicated, with 1" No. 6
+round-head screws, and place the top cross piece on these and hold in
+place with glue and 1" round-head blue screws.</p>
+
+<p>Place the sides in position, with the front ends flush with the outer
+edges of the front braces. Place the metal braces over the supporting
+pieces and screw in place, using 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws.</p>
+
+<p>Braces X, which run from the wheel supports to the front piece of the
+wheelbarrow, are screwed in place, as shown, using 1-1/4" No. 8
+round-head screws.</p>
+
+<p>It will be noticed that the hole for the dowel stick in the leg only
+extends in 3/8". Place one leg in position, 14-1/2" from the ends of the
+handles, using glue and 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws. Insert the
+dowel stick in this leg and also in the second leg and secure the second
+leg in place. The dowel should have glue placed on its ends, and, after
+the legs are in place, an inch brad should be driven into each leg,
+through the dowel, to hold it firmly in place.</p>
+
+<p>The color scheme given in the drawing is a pleasing one. The wheel is
+painted two coats of red before being placed in position.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CLOWN_RUNNING_WHEEL" id="CLOWN_RUNNING_WHEEL">CLOWN RUNNING WHEEL.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This has proven a very popular toy and is not hard to construct.</p>
+
+<p>The legs and body may be made of pulp or Beaver board, a material which
+is very good, as it saws easily and will not split. Wood, however, may
+be used, if preferred.</p>
+
+<p>The details of the body and legs are full size and these may be
+transferred to the wood by the tracing method described at the beginning
+of the book. These pieces, when done, may be painted, if desired, and
+allowed to dry while the rest of the parts are being made. Bore all
+necessary holes shown in the drawing.</p>
+
+<p>The wheels are best turned on a lathe to 4" in diameter and a hole bored
+in the center of each of a size that will allow a 1/4" dowel to fit
+tightly. If no lathe is available, the wheel can be cut out with a
+turning saw and finished with a chisel and file. The wheels are best
+made from 1/4" maple. Two pieces of 3/8" dowel are cut 1/4" long and
+attached 1/2" above the center of the wheel, as shown. This is done on
+both wheels, and the piece is attached with glue and 1/2" brads. It is a
+good plan to bore holes for these brads and thus prevent the possible
+splitting of the wood. The dowel that goes between the wheels is made
+1/4" &times; 3/4" and is glued securely in the holes in the wheels later.
+Another piece of 1/4" dowel is cut 4" long, and is fitted to support the
+body of the clown on the handle.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Clown_Wheel"><img src="images/i_158m.jpg" width = "800" height = "481" alt = "Running Clown A"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 48.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_159m.jpg" width = "359" height = "600" alt = "Running Clown B"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 49.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The handle is made 7/8" &times; 1-1/8" &times; 30", and the grip is rounded and
+shaped, as shown on <a href = "#Clown_Wheel">Plate 48</a>. In the opposite end of the handle a slot
+is cut 1/16" wide and 1-1/2" long. This is to receive the strip of zinc
+which runs between the wheels. This strip of zinc is made of 1/16"
+material, 1" wide and 4-1/2" long. Triangular pieces are cut from one
+end, 1/4" on a side, as shown on the detail sheet. This strip is held in
+the slot in the handle by first drilling through both the wood and the
+zinc, with a drill the size of a 3/4" brad, and afterwards gluing and
+bradding the zinc into position with 3/4" brads. A hole, 1/4" in
+diameter, is also drilled in the opposite end of the zinc, 5/8" from the
+end and 1/2" from the sides. This goes over the axle of the wheel.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored with a 1/4" bit, 2-3/8" from the end of the handle, as
+shown on <a href = "#Clown_Wheel">Plate 48</a>, and at an angle, as indicated.</p>
+
+<p>A similar hole is bored in the seat of the clown. The parts are now
+ready to sandpaper, paint, and after drying, assemble.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_161ma.jpg" width = "441" height = "600" alt = "Clown Running Wheel"/>
+<div class = "caption">Clown Running Wheel.</div>
+</div>
+<p><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_161mb.jpg" width = "387" height = "600" alt = "Cock Horse"/>
+<div class = "caption">Cock Horse.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The color scheme is given on the drawing. After the paint has dried, the
+lines where the various colors join, should be accented with a pen,
+using India ink.</p>
+
+<p>The upper legs of the clown are attached to the body with 1-1/2" copper
+rivets and the lower legs are held to the upper by 1/2" rivets. When
+putting the rivets in place, hold the end which has the washer against
+some hard, metal body and strike with a hammer, taking care<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> not to get
+the washer so tight that the legs will not move. A 3/4" No. 6 round-head
+screw holds the feet to the projecting dowel on the wheel. It is best to
+bore the hole for the screw in the piece of dowel a little smaller than
+the size of the screw so as to prevent splitting. Glue the supporting
+dowel in both the clown and the handle.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="COCK_HORSE" id="COCK_HORSE">COCK HORSE.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>The Cock Horse is a modern version of the old hobby horse, and affords
+the children, between the ages of four and six, unlimited pleasure.</p>
+
+<p>The head is made of a piece of 7/8" bass or pine, 5-1/2" wide and 9-1/2"
+long.</p>
+
+<p>The features may be enlarged from the size drawn in <a href = "#Horse_Cock">Plate 50</a>, by the
+method given at the beginning of the book for enlarging; or, if one is
+apt at free-hand drawing, the outline may be copied offhand.</p>
+
+<p>Cut the features out right to the line with a coping saw and smooth the
+edges and surfaces with No. 1/2 sandpaper.</p>
+
+<p>The stick is made 7/8" &times; 1" &times; 32", and the front end is chamfered 1/8".</p>
+
+<p>Holes are bored for 1-1/2" No. 10 flat-head screws, the first 1-3/4"
+from the front end and the other two 1-1/2" apart.</p>
+
+<p>Two smaller pieces, which are made 5/8" &times; 7/8" &times; 7-1/2", are to hold the
+wheel in position. Holes are bored in these two pieces to take 1-1/4"
+No. 8 round-head screws, the first one being 7/8" from the end and the
+next two 3/4" apart.</p>
+
+<p>On this same end a piece is cut off at an angle, as shown.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored at the opposite end of these two pieces to receive a
+2-1/2" &times; 1/4" round-head stove bolt, on which the wheel turns.</p>
+
+<p>The wheel is made 7/8" thick and 6" in diameter, either on a lathe or
+with a coping saw. A hole is bored in the center a little larger than
+the 1/4" &times; 2-1/2" stove bolt, so that the wheel will turn easily upon
+it.</p>
+
+<p>Glue and screw the two side pieces to the long stick, using 1-1/4"
+round-head blue screws. Give these two coats of natural varnish.</p>
+
+<p>Paint the wheel two coats of bright red.</p>
+
+<p>Paint the head one coat of flat white, and after drying give one or two
+coats of white enamel. After this has dried thoroughly, paint the comb
+and wattles bright red. Paint the beak and outer circle of the eyes
+yellow, and the feathers about the neck black. Where the colors join,
+outline with a drafting pen and India ink.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored, in the head where shown, to receive a piece of 3/4"
+dowel, 6" long. This serves as a handle. Glue this handle in place,
+taking care that it projects equally on both sides.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Horse_Cock"><img src="images/i_164m.jpg" width = "800" height = "480" alt = "Cock Horse"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 50.</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="ROCKING_ROOSTER" id="ROCKING_ROOSTER">ROCKING ROOSTER.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This very interesting action toy is especially suitable for children as
+young as two years of age. It is simple in construction and perfectly
+safe. (<a href = "#Rooster_Rock">Plate 51</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>The seat board is made 7/8" &times; 5" &times; 21". Measure 6" in from one end on
+both long edges, and at these points narrow the front end to 3-1/2" wide
+by sawing out a piece on both sides 1-1/4" wide.</p>
+
+<p>Round the corners where the taper comes, also the other four corners of
+the top. Similarly, round the upper edge of the top.</p>
+
+<p>The two rockers are made 7/8" &times; 4-1/2" &times; 18". Measure down 1/4" on the
+two ends, and from these points carefully sketch a free-hand curve with
+its highest point directly in the center of the lower edge. Be sure this
+curve balances equally and that the two rockers are exactly alike.</p>
+
+<p>The rooster's head is made 7/8" &times; 6" &times; 10-1/4" and the outline is
+sketched upon it similar to the one shown on the drawing.</p>
+
+<p>Cut out the features with a coping saw, taking pains to have the saw at
+right angles to the surface of the wood at all times.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored in the head, for the handle, about 3-3/4" from the top
+and 1-1/2" from the rear edge. A 3/4" bit is used.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_166m.jpg" width = "698" height = "600" alt = "Rocking Rooster"/>
+<div class = "caption">The Rocking Rooster is safe as well as interesting.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Be sure and bore this hole perfectly straight.</p>
+
+<p>The handle is made 6" long and 3/4" in diameter, shaping it as shown in
+the front view. If this cannot be turned on a lathe, the handle may be
+made from a 6" piece of 3/4" dowel, rounding the ends slightly with a
+file.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are now bored for the 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screws which hold the
+rockers and head to the top. The locations of these holes are clearly
+shown in the drawing. Countersink the holes on the side from which the
+screws enter.</p>
+
+<p>The little separating block, which goes between the rockers, is made
+7/8" &times; 1" &times; 2-1/2", and is held in place with glue.</p>
+
+<p>Sand all pieces thoroughly.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Rooster_Rock"><img src="images/i_167m.jpg" width = "800" height = "485" alt = "Rocking Rooster"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 51.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Assemble all pieces carefully, seeing that the rooster's head is
+centered well and placed two inches from the front end.</p>
+
+<p>The rockers are attached 1-1/2" from the ends and so placed that they
+are just an inch apart.</p>
+
+<p>Paint the whole toy one coat of flat white and sand lightly with No. 0
+sandpaper when dry. Paint in the comb and wattles of the rooster bright
+red and the feathers on the neck, green.</p>
+
+<p>After these colors have dried, apply another coat of white, where
+indicated, this time using white enamel. Use a small brush for the
+details. The beak and the circle about the eye are painted yellow and
+the other circle about the eye is painted black.</p>
+
+<p>If the paint does not seem to have the proper sparkle when the last coat
+is dry, apply another coat of each color. Outline the edge of the comb
+and wattles with a drafting pen and India ink. Outline also, the beak
+and eyes. This causes a sharp contrast where the two colors meet and
+sets off the features.</p>
+
+<p>The top and rockers are treated with two coats of white enamel on top of
+the priming coat.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="KIDDIE_KAR" id="KIDDIE_KAR">KIDDIE KAR.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>It is hardly necessary to speak of the popularity of this toy. Its
+construction is well within the ability of the average eighth grade boy.</p>
+
+<p>The seat board (<a href = "#Kid_Car">Plate 52</a>) is made of 7/8" stock and is first cut 7-1/2"
+wide and 21-1/2" long. Half the outline of the curve at the front should
+be traced on a folded piece of paper, the proper size, and cut out and
+traced on the wood. This outline should now be carefully sawed and
+chiseled to the correct shape.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_169m.jpg" width = "690" height = "600" alt = "Kiddie Kars"/>
+<div class = "caption">Kiddie Kars</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The top edge of the seat should be rounded.</p>
+
+<p>The rear support should have half its outline traced on a folded piece
+of paper and cut out and traced on a piece of wood 7/8" &times; 5" &times; 6-1/2".
+Finish to the line.</p>
+
+<p>The brace is cut 7/8" &times; 5" &times; 9-1/2".</p>
+
+<p>Mark out the outline of the curves, as shown, and saw and chisel to the
+line. The wheels and steering gear should be turned on a lathe to the
+dimensions shown on the drawing.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored in the seat board, 1-3/4" from the front end and half
+way between the sides, with a 15/16" bit. This is to allow the steering
+post, which is turned to 7/8" diameter, freedom to turn.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are drilled through the under part of the rear brace, as shown, to
+secure the same to the top. Holes are likewise bored half way between
+the sides of this brace, to engage with the curved supporting piece.</p>
+
+<p>The curved supporting piece has two holes bored 1-1/4" from the small
+end, 1" apart. This is for the screws that go into the top.</p>
+
+<p>Holes, bored with a small bit, should be started in the lower part of
+the rear brace, to receive the large screws which hold the rear wheels
+in place. It is quite necessary to make these holes, using a bit a
+trifle smaller than the screw to be used, as it is very difficult to
+force a screw of this size into wood of this hardness. These holes must
+be bored exactly straight, otherwise the wheels will turn unevenly.</p>
+
+<p>Washers should be used between the screw heads and the wheels and
+between the wheels and any part they are likely to come in contact with.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored in the steering rod, directly below the top board, for a
+screw to be placed to hold the upper and lower part of the steering rod
+firm. Glue is also used when assembling the two parts of the steering
+apparatus. The handle is also held in place with a screw and glue, as
+shown. A hole is bored in the handle, of a size suitable to receive the
+steering rod.</p>
+
+<p>Washers should be placed in the steering gear, above and below the seat
+board, to prevent wear.</p>
+
+<p>In preparing the slot to receive the front wheel, a hole should first be
+bored with an inch bit so that the top edge of the slot comes 3-5/8"
+from the bottom of the steering gear.</p>
+
+<p>This slot should be very carefully sawed out and smoothed up so that the
+wheel, which is 7/8" thick, will turn accurately.</p>
+
+<p>The holes in all the wheels must center accurately and be larger than
+the screw or bolt which goes through them. The front wheel turns on a
+1/4" &times; 1-3/4" round-head stove bolt.</p>
+
+<p>The color scheme may be varied to suit individual tastes.</p>
+
+<p>The one suggested in the drawing has red wheels with the remaining parts
+of the kiddie kar finished natural with spar varnish.</p>
+
+<p>All parts should be thoroughly sanded before assembling. Two coats of
+paint should be applied to the wheels and two coats of varnish to the
+remainder.</p>
+
+<p>Sand in between coats with No. 0 sandpaper.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Kid_Car"><img src="images/i_172m.jpg" width = "800" height = "491" alt = "Kiddie Kar"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 52.</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="KIDDIE_KOASTER" id="KIDDIE_KOASTER">KIDDIE KOASTER.</a></h2>
+
+<p>This lively toy is somewhat different from the three-wheeled Kiddie Kar
+and is suited for children of eight or over.</p>
+
+<p>If desired, this toy may be made up with three wheels like a velocipede.</p>
+
+<p>If this type is made, a piece of dowel rod, of hard wood, is cut about
+six or eight inches long and an inch in diameter. This dowel should go
+through a hole in the rear brace, and the wheels should be attached to
+the ends with 2" No. 12 round-head screws and washers.</p>
+
+<p>The following directions are for the two-wheel Kiddie Koaster shown in
+<a href = "#Coaster">Plate 53</a>.</p>
+
+<p>The front supporting piece is first made of a piece of hard wood, 2" &times;
+2-1/4" &times; 19". A distance of 7" is measured up from the lower end and
+7/8" is measured beyond this. From this point the remainder of the brace
+is thinned to one inch in thickness. The top end is rounded and the
+bottom end chamfered, as shown.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is carefully bored with an inch bit, 5-3/4" from the lower end.
+An allowance of 1/2" is made for the thickness of each fork and the
+remaining inch is removed with a saw up to the hole previously bored.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored for the handle, 1-1/4" from the top, with a 7/8" bit.
+Another hole is bored on each side, 6-1/4" from the lower end with a
+3/4" bit, 1/2" deep.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_174m.jpg" width = "396" height = "600" alt = "Kiddie Koaster"/>
+<div class = "caption">The Kiddie Koaster.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>These two holes are for the foot rests. Small holes are bored one inch
+from the lower end to receive a 1/4" &times; 2-1/2" round-head stove bolt. A
+1/4" bit should be used to bore these.</p>
+
+<p>The rear support is made 2" &times; 2-1/4" &times; 16-3/4". From a point 6-1/2" from
+the lower end this is thinned down to one inch thick, the same way as
+the front support. At the upper end measure down on one edge 7/8" and
+draw to the opposite corner.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Coaster"><img src="images/i_175m.jpg" width = "800" height = "481" alt = "Kiddie Koaster"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 53.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Cut off at this angle so that it will come on a line with the cross
+piece. A hole is bored with a 1/4" bit, one inch from the lower end to
+take a 1/4" &times; 2-1/2" round-head stove bolt.</p>
+
+<p>Chamfer 3/8" from the lower end.</p>
+
+<p>Bore a hole 4-3/4" from the lower end with an inch bit and remove the
+wood to form the rear fork, in the same manner as was done for the
+front.</p>
+
+<p>The cross piece between the front and rear support, on which the seat
+rests, is first made 7/8" x 5" x 13-1/8".</p>
+
+<p>Measure in two inches from the upper corner and draw a line to the lower
+corner. Saw squarely on this line to get the proper slant. Measure from
+this upper left-hand corner 9-1/2" and draw a line from here to the
+lower right-hand corner. Saw to this line. On this last end sawed,
+measure in 3/4" and make a tenon, as indicated in the side view. This
+tenon should be 1/2" thick. The other dimensions for the tenon are given
+on the drawing.</p>
+
+<p>On the rear support a mortise is now cut of a size to receive the tenon
+tightly, and to make the top edge of the cross piece and upper end of
+the rear support on a line.</p>
+
+<p>This tenon should be cut with a 1/2" bit, boring so as to make the
+mortise about 13/16" deep. Remove the extra wood with a small chisel
+until the tenon fits snugly within the mortise.</p>
+
+<p>Later, when assembling, this joint is glued and 3/4" brads are driven in
+from the side to pin it in place, as indicated.</p>
+
+<p>The seat is made 3/4" &times; 5" &times; 7". It is shaped, as shown in the sketch,
+cutting the outline with a turning saw and finishing to the line with a
+chisel and file. Two holes are bored and countersunk to receive 1-1/4"
+No. 8 flat-head screws which hold the seat in place.</p>
+
+<p>The seat is stuffed with tow, excelsior or other suitable material and
+covered with brown burlap or with imitation leather, as desired. A piece
+of braid, to match the material used, is tacked around the lower edge
+with upholstery tacks to match.</p>
+
+<p>The handles and foot rests are best turned out on a lathe, although they
+may be whittled out with a jack-knife. The dimensions for these are
+clearly shown.</p>
+
+<p>The front wheel is 9-1/2" in diameter, made from wood 3/4" thick. The
+rear wheel is 8" in diameter, the wood being 3/4" stock.</p>
+
+<p>These wheels should be made of hard wood or wood glued up three-ply.
+These are best turned on a lathe, although they may be cut with a
+turning saw and chiseled to the line and finished with a file.</p>
+
+<p>A special hinge may be obtained from most any toy<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> manufacturing firm,
+to place between the front support and the cross-piece. In the author's
+classes, hinges of this special type were obtained in various sizes,
+without any trouble. The size indicated in the drawing is five inches
+long and costs fourteen cents.</p>
+
+<p>If these special hinges are not used, the ordinary butt hinges may be
+substituted, two being used.</p>
+
+<p>A groove of the proper length and depth, to fit these hinges, can be
+drilled and chiseled out in the front brace. A saw cut can be made in
+the cross piece, across the end, in which to insert the hinge. When
+assembled, screws should be placed so as to accurately engage with the
+screw holes in the hinges.</p>
+
+<p>Before assembling, all pieces should be thoroughly sanded and painted
+two coats.</p>
+
+<p>A suggested color scheme is given on the drawing.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="SKI_SKOOTER" id="SKI_SKOOTER">SKI SKOOTER.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>The Ski Skooter, shown on <a href = "#Skooter_Ski">Plate 54</a>, is best made of ash.</p>
+
+<p>The runner is first made 5/8" &times; 3-3/8" &times; 39" and thinned down, for ten
+inches from the front end, to 3/8" thick.</p>
+
+<p>The runner is steamed, bent and grooved by the method shown in Plate 55.</p>
+
+<p>The upright piece is made 7/8" &times; 3-1/8" &times; 16-1/8" and one of the bracing
+pieces 7/8" &times; 1-3/8" &times; 12" and the other 7/8" &times; 1-3/8" &times; 13". These are
+cut at an angle of 45 degrees at each end, as shown.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_179m.jpg" width = "376" height = "600" alt = "Ski Skooter"/>
+<div class = "caption">The Ski Skooter is great sport on a moderate hill.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The seat is made 7/8" &times; 6" &times; 12", and the top edges are slightly
+rounded.</p>
+
+<p>Two grips, which also have their lower edges rounded, are made 3/4" &times;
+7/8" &times; 5".</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Skooter_Ski"><img src="images/i_180m.jpg" width = "800" height = "484" alt = "Ski Skooter"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 54.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Ski_Bend"><img src="images/i_181m.jpg" width = "800" height = "492" alt = "Bending Runners"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 55.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Two strengthening pieces are made 7/8" &times; 7/8" &times; 3-1/8" and their ends
+are cut at 45 degrees, as shown. These are attached to the upright
+directly under the seat.</p>
+
+<p>Bore all holes, where shown in the drawing, and countersink them.
+Assemble with glue and screws of a size shown on the drawing.</p>
+
+<p>The color scheme is given on the drawing, but may be changed to suit
+individual tastes. Two coats of paint are applied, sanding carefully
+between coats.</p>
+
+<p>The seat can be upholstered if desired.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="METHOD_OF_BENDING_RUNNERS" id="METHOD_OF_BENDING_RUNNERS">METHOD OF BENDING RUNNERS.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>Place the ends in a washboiler, about half full of boiling water, and
+allow them to remain about five hours.</p>
+
+<p>Place the tip, or front end of the runners, under the back edge of the
+top step of a step ladder. Slowly bend the runner downward until it lays
+flat on the front edges of the other steps.</p>
+
+<p>Secure this in place either with clamps or by pieces of rope and wood.
+<a href = "#Ski_Bend">Plate 55</a> shows two methods of bending the runners. Regular skis may be
+bent in the same manner.</p>
+
+<p>Leave the runners in the clamps overnight.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="SKI_SKIPPERS" id="SKI_SKIPPERS">SKI SKIPPERS.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>The Ski Skipper affords a lively form of winter amusement, and great
+speed can be obtained on the surface of the snow, especially when the
+crust is covered with a small amount of light snow.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_183m.jpg" width = "410" height = "600" alt = "For Boys and Girls"/>
+<div class = "caption">The Ski Skipper will please boys as well as girls.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The runners are best made of white ash, from half-inch material, 2-3/4"
+wide and 42" long. (<a href = "#Skipper_Ski">Plate 56</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>The front end of the runners is tapered, starting about five inches from
+the end. The extreme tips are blunt, being 1/2" wide.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Skipper_Ski"><img src="images/i_184m.jpg" width = "800" height = "484" alt = "Ski Skipper"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 56.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Starting about twelve inches from the front end, the runners are thinned
+down with a plane, on the upper surface, to 3/8" thick.</p>
+
+<p>Both runners have a groove cut along their counters from the rear end to
+the point where they curve upward.</p>
+
+<p>This groove is 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide, and may be cut by various
+methods. It may be cut with a grooving plane; it may be scored with a
+sharp-pointed gauge and the inner part removed with a chisel; or, if a
+power saw is available, it may be easily cut with a dado saw.</p>
+
+<p>The upper edge of the runners may be chamfered about 1/8" for a finish.
+When the foregoing operations are completed, the runners should be bent,
+using the method shown in <a href = "#Ski_Bend">Plate 55</a>.</p>
+
+<p>The slats forming the seat top are now made 1/2" &times; 2-1/2" &times; 12", and the
+single slat for the foot rest 1/2" &times; 1-1/2" &times; 12".</p>
+
+<p>The seat slats have holes bored and countersunk 3/4" from the edges and
+1-1/4" from the ends, to receive 1" No. 8 flat-head screws. The foot
+slat has a similar hole bored 1-1/4" from the ends and centered between
+the edges.</p>
+
+<p>The seat supports are first cut 7/8" &times; 7-1/2" &times; 9-1/2" and then an inch
+is measured in on the top edge on each side and lines are drawn to the
+lower corners, as shown. Saw and plane to this line, making the taper as
+shown in the side view. The cross brace is made 7/8" &times; 3" &times; 9".</p>
+
+<p>The supports for the foot rests are first made 7/8" &times; 3" &times; 3-1/2". On
+the upper edge, which is 3-1/2" long, measure in 3/8" from each end and
+draw the sloping lines to the lower corners, making the taper, as
+indicated. Round these upper corners.</p>
+
+<p>Bore holes in the runners for attaching the uprights at places where
+they will engage with the uprights, at points shown on the drawing.
+There should be three screws in each large upright and two in the
+smaller front support. Assemble with glue and 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head
+screws at all places except where the cross slats are held. At these
+points 1" No. 8 flat-head screws will be long enough.</p>
+
+<p>It will be noticed, in examining the top and front views, that the
+supporting uprights are not placed directly half way between the edges
+of the skis, but are offset so that they come nearer the outside edge of
+the runner. This is done so that the screw will not come in the groove.</p>
+
+<p>Two blocks of wood to hold the screw eyes, to which the rope is
+attached, are made from 1/2" material, 1-1/2" square.</p>
+
+<p>Two holes are bored in these blocks, as shown, and they are attached
+eight inches from the front end of the runner with 3/4" No. 6 round-head
+screws. A screw eye<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span> is placed in each block, of a size sufficient to
+receive a 3/8" rope.</p>
+
+<p>It is best to bore the hole for the screw eye first, in order to prevent
+splitting the block.</p>
+
+<p>A suggested color scheme is shown in the drawing. Two coats of paint
+should be applied.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="DOLL_SLEIGH" id="DOLL_SLEIGH">DOLL SLEIGH.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>While this drawing (<a href = "#Sleigh4Doll">Plate 57</a>), to all intents and purposes details a
+doll sleigh, yet by increasing the dimensions slightly the sleigh will
+be suitable for a small child.</p>
+
+<p>First, make the runners of 1/2" spruce, or other suitable wood, cutting
+them 9" wide by 26" long.</p>
+
+<p>On the upper edge measure back 1-1/2" and from this point draw to the
+corner of the lower edge. Saw to this line and slightly round the
+corners, as shown. With the dividers set at a radius of 4-1/2", strike a
+circle very lightly on the opposite end of the runners, so that it will
+be just tangent to the edges and end of the board. Measure up from the
+lower edge of the runner 7-1/2" and draw a line parallel to it until it
+strikes the circle. Cut to this line and also saw to the curve of the
+circle, forming the outline of the runner. Finish to the line with a
+chisel and file. See that the two runners are exact duplicates. Bevel
+slightly on the top edge to allow the runners to flare.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_188m.jpg" width = "463" height = "600" alt = "Doll Sleigh"/>
+<div class = "caption">The Doll Sleigh may be made larger to carry a baby brother or sister.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Next make the sleigh bottom 1/2" &times; 10" &times; 16-1/2". Two braces, to go
+below the sleigh bottom, are made 1/2" &times; 3" &times; 8-1/2".</p>
+
+<p>These braces are cut at an angle at each end, as shown. The angle is
+obtained by measuring in 3/8" on one edge and drawing to the opposite
+lower corner from this point and sawing to the line.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The sides of the sleigh are made 1/2" &times; 8" &times; 22". On the top edge
+measure in 7-3/4" and place a dot. Measure down from the right-hand
+lower corner of the sides 4-1/2" and from this point, draw to the
+right-hand upper corner.</p>
+
+<p>From the left-hand lower corner measure in 1-3/4" and place a dot. From
+the same corner measure up on the left-hand edge six inches and make
+another dot. Connect these two dots to form the slope of the front end.
+From the last dot placed, square a line in from the left-hand edge
+1-3/4" long. From this point sketch a free-hand curve, as is shown in
+the side view of the sleigh (<a href = "#Sleigh4Doll">Plate 57</a>) to the point first located on the
+upper edge. Cut to the outline, being sure both sides match.</p>
+
+<p>The front edge of the sleigh is made 1/2" &times; 6" &times; 11" and the rear end
+1/2" &times; 9" &times; 11-1/2". On the lower edge of the rear end measure in 1-5/8"
+from each corner and draw to the upper opposite corners. Saw and plane
+to these lines. This will give the taper of the rear end.</p>
+
+<p>Place the board from which the front is to be cut on the backboard and
+trace the slope of the sides and carefully finish to the line.</p>
+
+<p>The two handles are made 7/8" &times; 1-1/4" &times; 23-1/2", and the top piece, or
+grip, 1" &times; 1-1/4" &times; 19".</p>
+
+<p>The uprights are mortised into the grips 5/8", as shown on the drawing.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are bored in the center of the curve of the runners with a
+medium-size drill, and at these points an inch dowel is cut long enough
+to fit snugly between the runners, after the sleigh is assembled. The
+ends of the dowel are cut at a slope to conform to the pitch of the
+runners. This dowel is held with glue and 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head
+screws.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are bored, where indicated in the side view (<a href = "#Sleigh4Doll">Plate 57</a>), to hold
+the brace in place. Holes are also bored in the handles to attach to the
+body of sleigh at places most convenient.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are bored in the sleigh bottom to attach the same to the cross
+braces, using 1" No. 6 flat-head screws. Use 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head
+screws on the outside of the runners. The handles are attached with
+3/16" &times; 1-1/2" round-head stove bolts. All other parts should be secured
+with glue and three-penny fine finish nails.</p>
+
+<p>If desired the bottom of the runners may be covered with 1/2" strap
+iron.</p>
+
+<p>Various finishes may be used after the parts are thoroughly sanded. If
+stain is to be the finish, apply it according to the directions in the
+front of the book and, after drying eight or ten hours, apply two coats
+of shellac. Sand between coats with No. 0 sandpaper. After the last coat
+of shellac is dry apply one coat of spar varnish.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Sleigh4Doll"><img src="images/i_191m.jpg" width = "800" height = "484" alt = "Doll's Sleigh"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 57.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>If paint is to be used as the finishing material, decide on the color
+scheme and apply first a priming coat of flat white, after which one or
+two finish coats may be applied when dry, sanding lightly between each
+coat.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CHILDS_TABLE" id="CHILDS_TABLE">CHILD'S TABLE.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This is a very useful and practical problem and has been made up in
+large numbers by seventh and eighth grade boys.</p>
+
+<p>The chair shown in <a href = "#Chair4Child">Plate 59</a> fits compactly under the table and takes up
+but little room.</p>
+
+<p>The top is joined by gluing several boards together and finishes 30" in
+diameter. Basswood, 7/8" thick, is very good material to use. The boards
+must be carefully jointed and held together with 1/2" dowels. Hot glue
+is the best to use, although the cold glue will answer. Leave the pieces
+in the clamps overnight. The top may be cut to shape with a turning saw
+and finished to the line with a sharp chisel and file.</p>
+
+<p>The four legs are 7/8" &times; 1-3/8" &times; 20-3/8". Two cleats, which are screwed
+to the underside of the table, are next made, these being 7/8" &times; 3" &times;
+24".</p>
+
+<p>These cross each other in the middle with a middle lap joint, as
+indicated at A, on the drawing. A notch is cut on the ends of these
+braces at C, as shown, to receive the legs.</p>
+
+<p>The legs are held in place with glue and 1-3/4" No. 10 round-head blue
+screws.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_193m.jpg" width = "724" height = "600" alt = "Tables and Chairs"/>
+<div class = "caption">Children's Table and Chairs.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The braces are attached to the top of the table with a sufficient number
+of 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws to insure a strong job.</p>
+
+<p>The legs are notched 3/8" deep, 7" up from the bottom, to receive the
+lower leg braces. See sketch B, <a href = "#Table4Child">Plate 58</a>. These lower braces are 3/4" &times;
+1-3/8" &times; 23", joined at their center with a middle lap joint, the same
+as the top braces, and are held in the notch in the legs with glue and
+1-1/2" round-head screws.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Table4Child"><img src="images/i_194m.jpg" width = "800" height = "480" alt = "Child's Table"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 58.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>All parts should be carefully sandpapered, first with No. 1 sandpaper
+and then finished with No. 0.</p>
+
+<p>The final finish is optional. It may be stained and varnished or it may
+be finished in enamel.</p>
+
+<p>If enamel is used there should first be a couple of coats of flat white
+applied, each coat being sanded when dry, with No. 0 sandpaper, and the
+final coat of enamel applied.</p>
+
+<p>Some appropriate design, in a grayed color, may be put on with stencil
+if desired.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CHILDS_CHAIR" id="CHILDS_CHAIR">CHILD'S CHAIR.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p><a href = "#Chair4Child">Plate 59</a> gives directions for making the chairs to match the table in
+<a href = "#Table4Child">Plate 58</a>.</p>
+
+<p>The rear legs should first be cut out of 7/8" stock, 1-1/8" wide and 25"
+long. The two connecting rails are 1-1/8" &times; 9-5/8". The lower rail is
+notched into both front and rear legs, 6" from the lower ends, 3/8"
+deep.</p>
+
+<p>The upper rail, on which the seat rests, is notched in 3/8" deep, and 4"
+above the lower rail. The pieces so far completed may now be sanded and
+assembled, using glue and 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head screws.</p>
+
+<p>It is well to reinforce the joints by driving an eight-penny finish nail
+each side of the screws. These should be set below the surface, and the
+hole should be filled with hard beeswax before painting.</p>
+
+<p>While this is drying, the front and rear rails can be made.</p>
+
+<p>These rails, five in number, are all 7/8" &times; 1-1/8" &times; 8-1/4".</p>
+
+<p>The wide back rail is made of 1/2" material, 4-1/2" wide by 8-1/4" long.</p>
+
+<p>Holes should next be bored for the various screws, where indicated on
+the drawing.</p>
+
+<p>A cross cleat, which runs between the upper side rails and helps support
+the seat, is made 7/8" &times; 3" &times; 8-1/4". This is attached, as shown in the
+sketch of the joinery of the legs and rails, and is screwed to the under
+side of the seat with 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws.</p>
+
+<p>The seat is made 7/8" &times; 10" &times; 11-1/2" and is notched at the corners to
+receive the rear legs. The top is rounded slightly on its rear edges.</p>
+
+<p>Next assemble the two sides with glue and screws of proper size, as
+shown. All surfaces should be carefully sanded and the finish should be
+treated as described for the table.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Chair4Child"><img src="images/i_197m.jpg" width = "800" height = "478" alt = "Child's Chair"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 59.</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX">INDEX</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>
+Adapting the Problem to the Boy's Ability, <a href = "#Page_15">15</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Bean Bag Game, <a href = "#Page_72">72-4</a><br />
+<br />
+Bench Hook, <a href = "#Page_22">22-4</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Camel, <a href = "#Page_38">38</a><br />
+<br />
+Child's Cart, <a href = "#Page_93">93-5</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chair, <a href = "#Page_130">130-1</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dump Wagon, <a href = "#Page_95">95-9</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Snow Shovel, <a href = "#Page_46">46-7</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Step Ladder, <a href = "#Page_59">59-63</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Table, <a href = "#Page_128">128-30</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wash Bench, <a href = "#Page_57">57-9</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wheelbarrow (Type A), <a href = "#Page_99">99-103</a>, (Type B), <a href = "#Page_102">102-5</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Clown Running Wheel, <a href = "#Page_105">105-9</a><br />
+<br />
+Cock Horse, <a href = "#Page_109">109-10</a><br />
+<br />
+Colonial Doll's Chair, <a href = "#Page_66">66-7</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cradle, <a href = "#Page_87">87-9</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Table, <a href = "#Page_64">64-6</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Coping Saw Work, <a href = "#Page_26">26-7</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Darts, <a href = "#Page_75">75-7</a><br />
+<br />
+Dart Board Game, <a href = "#Page_74">74-6</a><br />
+<br />
+Dippy Duck, <a href = "#Page_40">40-1</a><br />
+<br />
+Doll's Bed, <a href = "#Page_89">89-91</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Clothes Rack, <a href = "#Page_55">55-7</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cradle, <a href = "#Page_84">84-7</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ironing Board (Size A), <a href = "#Page_49">49-51</a>, (Size B), <a href = "#Page_51">51-3</a>, (Size C), <a href = "#Page_53">53-5</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sleigh, <a href = "#Page_125">125-8</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Table with Drawer, <a href = "#Page_62">62-4</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Dowel Sticks, <a href = "#Page_27">27</a><br />
+<br />
+Duck, <a href = "#Page_30">30</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Elephant, <a href = "#Page_33">33</a><br />
+<br />
+Equipment, <a href = "#Page_13">13-4</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Finish and Color, <a href = "#Page_15">15-7</a><br />
+<br />
+Five Post Ring Toss, <a href = "#Page_68">68-72</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Goat, <a href = "#Page_36">36</a><br />
+<br />
+Goose, <a href = "#Page_31">31</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+History of Toy-Making, <a href = "#Page_11">11-3</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Kiddie Kar, <a href = "#Page_113">113-15</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Koaster, <a href = "#Page_116">116-19</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Lamb, <a href = "#Page_35">35</a><br />
+<br />
+Laying Out Work, <a href = "#Page_14">14</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Merrimac, <a href = "#Page_44">44-5</a><br />
+<br />
+Method of Bending Runners, <a href = "#Page_121">121-2</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of Enlarging Figures, <a href = "#Page_39">39-40</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of Jointing Wood, <a href = "#Page_18">18-20</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Monitor, <a href = "#Page_42">42-3</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Pelican, <a href = "#Page_29">29</a><br />
+<br />
+Periscope, <a href = "#Page_47">47-8</a><br />
+<br />
+Picture Puzzle Construction, <a href = "#Page_27">27-8</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Rabbit, <a href = "#Page_34">34</a><br />
+<br />
+Rhinoceros, <a href = "#Page_32">32</a><br />
+<br />
+Ring-The-Hook Game, <a href = "#Page_68">68-9</a><br />
+<br />
+Rocking Rooster, <a href = "#Page_111">111-13</a><br />
+<br />
+Rooster, <a href = "#Page_37">37</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Sand or Water Mill, <a href = "#Page_82">82-4</a><br />
+<br />
+Simple Tool Sharpening, <a href = "#Page_24">24-6</a><br />
+<br />
+Ski Skippers, <a href = "#Page_122">122-5</a><br />
+<br />
+Ski Skooter, <a href = "#Page_119">119-22</a><br />
+<br />
+Staining, <a href = "#Page_17">17-8</a><br />
+<br />
+Support to be Held in Vise, <a href = "#Page_20">20-2</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">for Holding Coping Saw Work, <a href = "#Page_20">20</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">for Table Use, <a href = "#Page_22">22</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Transferring a Design, <a href = "#Page_14">14-5</a><br />
+<br />
+Two Types of Stilts, <a href = "#Page_91">91-3</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Wind Mill, <a href = "#Page_77">77-80</a>; (Type B) <a href = "#Page_80">80-2</a><br />
+</p>
+
+<div class = "transnote"><div class = "center">Transcribers Note.</div>
+<p class = "center">Inconsistency in hyphenation is as in the original.</p>
+<p class = "center">"heighth" was changed to "height".</p>
+<p class = "center">"Sonnenburg" was changed to "Sonnenberg"</p>
+<p class = "center">Titles of Plate illustrations were taken from drawings with inconsistent
+punctuation and this was systematised. </p>
+<p class = "center">Otherwise very few minor typographical errors have been corrected.</p></div>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44501 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/44501-h/images/cover.jpg b/44501-h/images/cover.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1ef7d41
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/cover.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_004m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_004m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..82378b6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_004m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_014ma.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_014ma.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..db59257
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_014ma.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_014mb.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_014mb.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..bfd46fa
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_014mb.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_014mc.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_014mc.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..17c9494
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_014mc.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_014md.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_014md.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..700f89a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_014md.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_026m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_026m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c376357
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_026m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_031m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_031m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5979b5d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_031m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_033m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_033m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f75723b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_033m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_034m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_034m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..039fef7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_034m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_037m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_037m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6e6efee
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_037m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_040m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_040m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e0dd417
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_040m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_042m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_042m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ddd667c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_042m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_045m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_045m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8b390ed
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_045m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_046m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_046m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f387029
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_046m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_047m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_047m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d2bd8b4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_047m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_048m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_048m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f4d9240
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_048m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_049m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_049m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c9fbe46
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_049m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_050m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_050m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..06af51b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_050m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_051m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_051m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..716c027
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_051m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_052m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_052m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4cf6f85
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_052m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_053m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_053m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e8f1ef3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_053m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_054m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_054m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..40c8af5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_054m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_055m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_055m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d50461e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_055m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_056m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_056m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3811b85
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_056m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_059m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_059m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..dfeead3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_059m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_060m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_060m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5768453
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_060m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_062m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_062m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..756c99a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_062m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_063m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_063m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..eda6dc2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_063m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_066m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_066m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..24c5b96
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_066m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_069m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_069m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7ea16b2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_069m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_070m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_070m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..79cbc82
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_070m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_071m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_071m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7063a59
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_071m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_072m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_072m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0d82a5d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_072m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_075m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_075m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d340107
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_075m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_078m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_078m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..752750a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_078m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_080m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_080m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4242803
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_080m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_081m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_081m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0ccb148
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_081m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_084m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_084m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..435b70f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_084m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_087m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_087m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4244488
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_087m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_090m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_090m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7a1cc41
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_090m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_095m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_095m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..388c516
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_095m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_098m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_098m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..afe429e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_098m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_101m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_101m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..de80d6f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_101m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_102m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_102m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..32955ab
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_102m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_104m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_104m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1767382
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_104m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_106m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_106m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..80e8699
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_106m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_107m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_107m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c48c51a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_107m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_110m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_110m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4fdf11e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_110m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_112m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_112m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..de73e3f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_112m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_114m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_114m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7a75420
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_114m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_115m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_115m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..23e6a0f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_115m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_120m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_120m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e4eea2c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_120m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_123m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_123m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..79c6281
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_123m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_126m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_126m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0743a54
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_126m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_128m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_128m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7bc6bc1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_128m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_131m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_131m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a9b74c0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_131m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_134m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_134m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c6fea51
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_134m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_136m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_136m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9b3adec
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_136m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_137m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_137m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d1bfa6d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_137m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_139m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_139m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..076199a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_139m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_140m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_140m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..835397a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_140m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_143m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_143m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f4c8841
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_143m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_146m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_146m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6613f08
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_146m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_150m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_150m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..febe504
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_150m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_151m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_151m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..16f9a31
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_151m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_152m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_152m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..77de3e6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_152m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_155m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_155m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ed71ce1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_155m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_158m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_158m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..943edca
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_158m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_159m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_159m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9e4b2aa
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_159m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_161ma.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_161ma.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8833d89
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_161ma.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_161mb.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_161mb.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1475d9d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_161mb.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_164m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_164m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4036005
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_164m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_166m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_166m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..744226f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_166m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_167m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_167m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0a6035a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_167m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_169m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_169m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..21ad4c8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_169m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_172m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_172m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5e110c0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_172m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_174m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_174m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..12795ba
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_174m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_175m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_175m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..eb91fe8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_175m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_179m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_179m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4814037
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_179m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_180m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_180m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d806379
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_180m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_181m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_181m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..05ea46b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_181m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_183m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_183m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4dc3be9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_183m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_184m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_184m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3b22b03
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_184m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_188m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_188m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..33f4fab
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_188m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_191m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_191m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..aefbe0b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_191m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_193m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_193m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ec0ba84
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_193m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_194m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_194m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4b8023e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_194m.jpg
diff --git a/44501-h/images/i_197m.jpg b/44501-h/images/i_197m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a844d50
--- /dev/null
+++ b/44501-h/images/i_197m.jpg
diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6312041
--- /dev/null
+++ b/LICENSE.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
diff --git a/README.md b/README.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a517fac
--- /dev/null
+++ b/README.md
@@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #44501 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/44501)
diff --git a/old/44501-8.txt b/old/44501-8.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..87bddad
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-8.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,4331 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Toy Craft, by Leon H. Baxter
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Toy Craft
+
+Author: Leon H. Baxter
+
+Release Date: December 24, 2013 [EBook #44501]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TOY CRAFT ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chris Curnow, Paul Mitchell and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  TOY CRAFT
+
+
+
+
+  TOY CRAFT
+
+
+  LEON H. BAXTER
+  Director of Manual Training, Public Schools
+  ST. JOHNSBURY, VT.
+
+  Author of Boy Bird House Architecture, and Elementary Concrete Construction
+
+  [Illustration]
+
+  THE BRUCE PUBLISHING COMPANY
+  MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN
+
+
+  Copyright 1922
+  The Bruce Publishing Company
+  Printed in the United States of America
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY NOTES
+
+
+The purpose of such a book as Mr. Baxter's "Toy Craft" is to furnish
+definite instructions for the making of toys for boys and girls by the
+children themselves. Miniature furniture, wooden dolls, carts and
+animals--of how much greater value is one such plaything actually put
+together by a child than any number of toys made in a factory or
+imported from some foreign country? Truly a step forward has been taken
+in putting before the people a book which will unconsciously instill in
+the minds of the children the value of the hand-made in preference to
+the machine-made article.
+
+Not only is Mr. Baxter peculiarly fitted to publish such a volume as
+"Toy Craft" in the light of his knowledge of manual training, but also
+because of his understanding of the spirit behind the production of
+toys, which bring such joy to the hearts of boys and girls.
+
+To the satisfaction of actually making some wooden cart, or bird, or
+animal may be added the happiness of doing the work for some other
+child. It is this vision of service for others which Mr. Baxter has
+already caught and demonstrated, and we feel sure that this little
+volume will do much to promote the improved individual construction of
+toys by children, at the same time instilling into the hearts of the
+boys the joy of making something for somebody else, of experiencing the
+truth, "It is more blessed to give than to receive."
+
+  MABEL E. TURNER,
+  Field Representative for Junior Service,
+  New England Division, American Red Cross.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+One of the hard problems in manual training, for boys up to twelve years
+of age, is to find worth-while things to make, within the capacity of
+boys of this age. Having been engaged in this kind of work for over
+twenty years I can appreciate the problems of the manual training
+instructor in the grades.
+
+After carefully examining the cuts and directions for the various
+projects as given in "Toy Craft," and having seen the boys at work, as
+well as the completed articles, in Mr. Baxter's department, I can
+readily see how the great interest that is inspired in the boys is
+derived.
+
+I heartily commend this book to all manual training teachers as a great
+help in the solution of their problems with boys.
+
+  STANLEY J. STEWARD, M. E.,
+  Director, St. Johnsbury Vocational School.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+Each year American parents spend millions of dollars for toys for the
+children. In a short time a large part of these toys are broken, and lie
+in the corner or the back yard. This is because of the destructive
+habits children have developed. These same habits have been formed
+because, since birth, toys have cost these children nothing.
+
+Children, like grown-ups, value things and form habits in proportion to
+the cost to them. They break up what costs them nothing, and cherish and
+keep repaired what they, themselves, have made or purchased with
+self-denial or self-earned money.
+
+The breaking of toys is bad, but the effect upon the character of the
+child is infinitely worse. Destructive tendencies are developed, while
+constructive ability is allowed to lie dormant and inactive.
+
+The remedy for this is to develop the constructive rather than the
+destructive in children by buying them working outfits and books of
+instruction with which they can make and repair things for themselves.
+In other words, buy tools, equipment and supplies rather than finished
+toys. Carlisle said, "Man without tools is nothing; man with tools is
+all." Education is to children what civilization is to the race.
+
+What to buy for each particular child depends upon the age and
+tendencies of the child and is a matter parents must determine for
+themselves. The important test is, "Is it something that the child can
+use to make things for himself, for others and for the home?"
+
+When purchasing tools it is an excellent plan to leave some part of the
+outfit for the children to make or to buy from money they themselves
+have earned. In other words, co-operate with the children instead of
+doing it all for them.
+
+The writer speaks not only from the teacher's point of view, but from
+the parent's as well. The problems offered in this book are not only
+within the capabilities of the average child, but are all tested and
+proven as being worth-while and appealing strongly to the child's ideals
+and imagination.
+
+  LEON H. BAXTER.
+
+  St. Johnsbury, Vt.
+
+
+
+
+  TABLE OF CONTENTS
+
+
+                                              Page
+
+  History of Toy-Making                       11-3
+
+  Equipment                                   13-4
+
+  Laying Out Work                             14
+
+  Transferring a Design                       14-5
+
+  Adapting the Problem to the Boy's Ability   15
+
+  Finish and Color                            15-7
+
+  Staining                                    17-8
+
+  Method of Jointing Wood                     18-20
+
+  Supports for Holding Coping Saw Work        20
+
+  Support to be Held in Vise                  20-2
+
+  Supports for Table Use                      22
+
+  The Bench Hook                              22-4
+
+  Simple Tool Sharpening                      24-6
+
+  Coping Saw Work                             26-7
+
+  Dowel Sticks                                27
+
+  Picture Puzzle Construction                 27-8
+
+  Pelican                                     29
+
+  Duck                                        30
+
+  Goose                                       31
+
+  Rhinoceros                                  32
+
+  Elephant                                    33
+
+  Rabbit                                      34
+
+  Lamb                                        35
+
+  Goat                                        36
+
+  Rooster                                     37
+
+  Camel                                       38
+
+  Method of Enlarging Figures                 39-40
+
+  Dippy Duck                                  40-1
+
+  Monitor                                     42-3
+
+  Merrimac                                    44-5
+
+  Child's Snow Shovel                         46-7
+
+  The Periscope                               47-8
+
+  Doll's Ironing Board (Size A)               49-51
+
+  Doll's Ironing Board (Size B)               51-3
+
+  Doll's Ironing Board (Size C)               53-5
+
+  Doll's Clothes Rack                         55-7
+
+  Child's Wash Bench                          57-9
+
+  Child's Step Ladder                         59-63
+
+  Doll's Table with Drawer                    62-4
+
+  Colonial Doll's Table                       64-6
+
+  Colonial Doll's Chair                       66-7
+
+  Ring-The-Hook Game                          68-9
+
+  Five Post Ring Toss                         68-72
+
+  Bean Bag Game                               72-4
+
+  Dart Board Game                             74-6
+
+  Darts                                       75-7
+
+  Wind Mill                                   77-80
+
+  Wind Mill (Type B)                          80-2
+
+  Sand or Water Mill                          82-4
+
+  Doll's Cradle                               84-7
+
+  Colonial Doll Cradle                        87-9
+
+  Doll's Bed                                  89-91
+
+  Two Types of Stilts                         91-3
+
+  Child's Cart                                93-5
+
+  Child's Dump Wagon                          95-9
+
+  Child's Wheelbarrow (Type A)                99-103
+
+  Child's Wheelbarrow (Type B)                102-5
+
+  Clown Running Wheel                         105-9
+
+  Cock Horse                                  109-10
+
+  Rocking Rooster                             111-13
+
+  Kiddie Kar                                  113-15
+
+  Kiddie Koaster                              116-19
+
+  Ski Skooter                                 119-22
+
+  Method of Bending Runners                   121-2
+
+  Ski Skippers                                122-5
+
+  Doll Sleigh                                 125-8
+
+  Child's Table                               128-30
+
+  Child's Chair                               130-1
+
+[Illustration: Girls Making Toys for a Red Cross Christmas Sale.]
+
+[Illustration: A Christmas Sale of Toys for the Red Cross.]
+
+[Illustration: Boy Toy Makers and Some of their Products.]
+
+[Illustration: Making Toys in the School Shop.]
+
+
+
+
+TOY CRAFT
+
+
+
+
+HISTORY OF TOY-MAKING.
+
+
+To tell the history of toy-making from its earliest days it would be
+necessary to follow the story back through many centuries, for the
+archaeologists, in delving among the tombs of ancient Greece and Egypt,
+have made the surprising discovery that children played with dolls, and
+jointed dolls at that, more than five thousand years ago.
+
+Moreover, by the side of these dolls scientists have unearthed other
+playthings that children still crave: doll's furniture, animal toys and
+toys with wheels, illustrating the methods of transportation of those
+early days.
+
+These same scientists claim that the custom of playing with dolls and
+other toys is as old as the world itself and that playthings are, and
+always have been, just as necessary a constituent of human health and
+development as either food or medicine.
+
+They claim that the reason that boys and girls crave toys is that nature
+requires them, and to deprive children of such playthings would be to
+retard their mental growth and development.
+
+The Latin word =trochus= means a hoop for children. The hoops of Roman
+children were made of bronze and iron and were rolled by a sort of a
+crooked stick and sometimes had small bells attached.
+
+=Pupa=, the Latin word meaning "a little girl," applies to dolls which
+were made from rags, wood, wax, ivory and terra cotta. When the Greek
+girls of that time married they dedicated their dolls to Artemis; the
+Roman girls, to Venus; but, if they died before marriage, their dolls
+were buried with them.
+
+The Latin word =crepundia= meant children's playthings, such as rattles,
+dolls, toy hatchets and swords.
+
+The toys made during the middle ages for the children of noble families
+and rich merchants, show special care and fine workmanship. Many of them
+were of a religious nature in the form of the Cross of the Crusaders, or
+military in origin, like miniature knights on horseback. The toys of
+this period were generally carved by goldsmiths.
+
+The American Indians and the Esquimaux made dolls from bits of skin and
+fur of wild animals and gaily decorated them with shells, beads and
+feathers. They also carved small models of animals and human beings from
+wood and bone.
+
+The oldest European toy manufacturing center is Nuremberg, Germany. This
+town is especially noted for its metal playthings, like the lead
+soldiers, which were the delight of our childhood. Sonneburg, in
+Germany, is the greatest European center for the manufacture of wooden
+toys.
+
+Winchendon, Mass., is the greatest toy manufacturing center in the
+United States, nearly every enterprise in that town being toy-making.
+
+In spite of the early origin of toys the progress of manufacturing
+playthings has been so slow that, even as late as one hundred years ago,
+the types of toys were few in number, simple in construction and
+extremely expensive, especially in the United States.
+
+There was no systematic manufacture of such articles, and, as the cost
+of importation was very high, comparatively few persons could afford
+such means of amusement for their children.
+
+The children of those days accepted more primitive things, dolls that
+were often merely pieces of cloth folded and pinned in such a manner as
+to suggest the outline that was not there.
+
+A few other toys such as hoops, jumping-jacks, tenpins, marbles,
+battledore-and-shuttlecock and alphabet blocks, represented the limit of
+the toy-makers' stock.
+
+In America the toy-making industry is of quite recent origin. Before
+1875 more than ninety per cent of the toys sold in this country were of
+foreign manufacture, and those that were made here were never exported
+to other countries. Today, however, about five per cent of the toys sold
+here are made abroad and the rest are manufactured here in our own
+country. Up to 1875 there was not a doll factory in the United States.
+
+Today, while we import some dainty toys from France, Germany and
+Switzerland, nearly all the newest, unique and mechanical productions
+are made in America.
+
+Simple toys are mostly made of wood and metal, and the same principles
+employed by mechanical engineers, in duplicating parts of machinery, are
+used in making duplicate parts of toys.
+
+When a design has been decided on, it is reduced to its most simple
+element. Jigs are then made so that each piece will be an exact
+duplicate of every similar piece, and the construction is pushed through
+on the American factory system.
+
+Some toys are very elaborate, costing several hundred dollars. These
+are readily purchased, however, by people of means.
+
+In the author's opinion the best kind of toys are those which suggest
+rather than fulfill, and those with which the child can really do
+something. Mechanical toys, which supply their own energy, should not be
+allowed to take the place of those into which the child must infuse part
+of his own life and energy. It follows naturally, then, that the toys
+made by the children themselves are the ideal ones.
+
+
+
+
+EQUIPMENT.
+
+
+The following drawings vary in difficulty from those within the ability
+of a nine or ten-year-old child to those which should not be attempted
+by a child under junior high school age. Of course there are younger
+boys, who possess especial ability in this line of work and who can
+successfully carry through projects which the ordinary child of a like
+age would fail to satisfactorily complete. Such boys are, however, the
+exception.
+
+  For the younger workman the following outfit is ample:
+
+  One coping saw frame.
+
+  One dozen saw blades.
+
+  A sloyd knife or a pocket knife with a small stone to keep it sharp.
+
+  Some No. 1 sandpaper, a small can of glue and some one inch brads.
+
+  The whole outfit will cost about a dollar.
+
+A small plane is very convenient, but it is not absolutely necessary for
+work for younger children.
+
+A board on which the sawing is done, to prevent marring the table, can
+be made from a piece of boxwood 7/8" × 6" × 12". A hole should be bored
+about three inches from one end and half way between the sides, and a
+V-shaped notch should be cut from the end of the board to the hole. The
+photograph on Page 20 shows the sawing board in use and illustrates two
+methods of constructing and holding the board. See also Plate 2 for
+method of making these boards. If a vise is available matters are very
+much simplified.
+
+With the above described outfit, toy animals, toy furniture,
+jumping-jacks and other simple toys of a like nature can be made.
+
+The material should be thin wood from the thickness of cigar box wood
+(which by the way is especially good to use for some of the toys), up to
+one-half inch in thickness.
+
+Composition board, such as Beaver Board and similar wall board, is very
+good for the smaller toys but lacks strength and cannot be handled
+roughly.
+
+Three-ply veneered wood may be obtained from firms which specialize in
+veneer. It is strong and serviceable but a little more expensive than
+the plain wood.
+
+Bass and pine are excellent woods to use in toy-making, as they work
+very easily and are light in weight.
+
+For the older boy, who will no doubt be handy about the house, the
+following tools are suggested:
+
+  1 Rip saw.
+  1 Turning saw.
+  1 Claw hammer.
+  1 Screw driver.
+  1 Half round file, No. 10.
+  1 Ruler.
+  1 Jack, or smooth, plane.
+  1 Brace, set of bits and countersink.
+  A 1/2" and 1" chisels.
+  1 Try square.
+  1 Pair of 6" dividers.
+  1 Knife.
+
+This outfit should cost about $25. Other tools may be added by the boy
+himself as the necessity arises.
+
+If a bench is not available at first, a temporary one may be made from a
+stout dry goods box and a more satisfactory one purchased later with
+money earned by the boy by making things for others.
+
+Cheap tools are an expensive investment as they are never satisfactory.
+A few tools of good quality should be purchased to start with, and
+others should be added as necessity demands and funds permit.
+
+
+
+
+LAYING OUT WORK.
+
+
+For the young beginner it will be necessary to have patterns of animals
+and other toys to trace around, before cutting out the forms.
+
+In the author's opinion originality should be always encouraged in a boy
+when the original designs can be successfully worked out to completion
+by the boy.
+
+With beginners, however, considerable tact must be used in leading them
+on to work out original ideas through the medium of the sketching
+pencil. Only very few have the ability to carry out an idea which they
+may have, and if allowed to attempt it without a trial on paper the
+resulting product is most always a failure. As stated before, the first
+work should be tracings from well-designed patterns. These, then, can be
+successfully worked out, and the result is satisfying to the mind of the
+child and not a discouraging failure.
+
+
+
+
+TRANSFERRING A DESIGN TO WOOD.
+
+
+A design may be traced by placing a piece of transparent paper over the
+desired drawing and outlining it with a pencil. The resulting tracing is
+cut out, placed on a stiff piece of cardboard or fiber board, and
+redrawn on this. The board is then cut carefully with scissors or a
+sharp knife. This pattern may be used for a long time and other patterns
+may be made from it in a similar manner.
+
+Another simple method is to place a piece of carbon paper beneath the
+desired drawing, carbon side down, and to go over the lines of the
+drawing with a medium-hard pencil. This transfer may be made directly
+on the wood or on a piece of cardboard which is to be cut out and used
+as a pattern. For cut-up picture puzzles the picture is pasted directly
+on the wood and, after drying, is cut at random. See Plate 5.
+
+
+
+
+ADAPTING THE PROBLEM TO THE BOY'S ABILITY.
+
+
+As the child's efficiency increases and he leaves the simpler toy forms
+for others of increasing difficulty, he should be encouraged to read the
+working drawings of the article which he intends to make. Show him how
+to discover from the drawing the lengths, widths, thicknesses of the
+pieces to be made and, after carefully checking him up, let him work out
+his own salvation for a while. In other words, do not do it all for him.
+Let the result be at least 90 per cent the boy's own work. Be ready,
+however, to assist at the right moment and never turn a deaf ear to the
+persistent question, "Why"?
+
+By following this logical method of procedure in teaching, the writer
+has found that the young craftsman is ready a great deal earlier to work
+out original ideas and designs to a practical and successful conclusion.
+
+
+
+
+FINISH AND COLOR.
+
+
+After all cutting with edged tools has been completed, all pieces should
+be carefully sanded to insure the removal of all scars, pencil lines and
+other imperfections.
+
+Sandpaper should be used on a small block. Care should be taken that no
+paper hangs over the block, thus rounding the edges of the work being
+finished.
+
+In sanding over a first coat of shellac or paint a block is not used,
+but the sandpaper is folded two or three times and used under the finger
+tips. Care must be taken especially not to wear through the finish on
+the edges.
+
+Paint is difficult and unsatisfactory for younger children to use.
+Colors handled by beginners will run together and will be "dauby" in
+appearance and a detriment rather than a finish to a toy. Added to this
+is the likelihood of a generous application on the painter's hands and
+clothing.
+
+The writer has had excellent results in using the ordinary colored wax
+crayons on toys. Crayon is easy to apply, has a pleasing color tone, is
+clean and very satisfactory for the beginner. After all of a toy has
+been colored a fairly heavy line may be drawn free-hand, at the point of
+contact of the colors, with an ordinary drafting pen and India ink.
+Pains should be taken to see that the ink is dry in one place before
+applying in another. If the crayon has been put on with pressure and
+uniformly deposited over the surface the ink will "take" without
+spreading and the result is a clean-cut finished appearance.
+
+For more advanced workers the toys should be painted with either
+commercial or enamel paints, which are available on the market in all
+colors, or with colors mixed by the boy himself. If the boy mixes his
+own colors much of the mystery of the ready-mixed paints is done away
+with.
+
+By adding to white enamel a small amount of a selected color, ground in
+oil, various tones of the color may be obtained.
+
+In painting any object a first or priming coat is applied. Flat white is
+an excellent all-round primer. After the priming coat has dried
+thoroughly on a toy, it should be sanded lightly to remove any rough
+places with No. 0 sandpaper and dusted. Then the final coat should be
+applied.
+
+Gray is also very good for the first coat except where a white or very
+light colored paints are to be used for the finished coat.
+
+When painting small toys or parts of larger toys it is economy to have a
+string or wire stretched between two hooks six or seven feet from the
+floor, on which to hang the painted article.
+
+[Illustration: Careful painting is as essential to the success of a toy
+as good construction.]
+
+Drive an inch brad into some part of the toy that will not be seen, such
+as the lower edge of the animal toys, and attach a short length of
+string or wire to this and hang up as before described. This nail will
+be handy to hold the toy by while painting and when hung up is out of
+the way, is not touching anything to cause marks on the paint, and is
+high enough up to be where the temperature of the room will assist in
+the drying process. Remove this nail after the toy is dry. If possible
+toys should dry in a special room where it is quiet, with no dust
+stirring or drafts blowing, and where the temperature is fairly uniform,
+not falling below 60 degrees.
+
+Paint should be applied with the tip of the brush, holding the brush
+nearly vertical, using a uniform stroke and taking care to prevent
+"tears" or surplus paint running over an edge. The brush should be in
+proportion to the size of the article painted, and the strokes should be
+outward toward the edges rather than from the edges inward.
+
+Features and fine lines on the toys may be placed with No. 3 round sable
+brush or with India ink in an ordinary drafting pen. The latter method
+of outlining and drawing in features has proved most successful with the
+writer's classes, as the solidity of the pen allows a firm pressure on
+the surface of the work and insures a uniform line. Fine or coarse lines
+may be made by adjusting the pen to suit the desired need.
+
+Considerable skill is needed to satisfactorily place lines with a fine
+pointed brush held in the hands of an inexperienced boy, and the
+drafting-pen method simplifies the problem immensely.
+
+Adjoining colors, outlined by this method, improve the appearance of the
+toy fifty per cent.
+
+Dull colors may be "livened up" by applying a coat of white shellac or
+varnish.
+
+Toys having parts of various colors, such as carts, etc., should have
+the different parts painted before assembling.
+
+
+
+
+STAINING.
+
+
+Before attempting to stain a toy, the wood should be carefully examined
+to see that all scars, glue or scratches have been removed. This is very
+important as the stain will show up all imperfections in the wood very
+plainly. Enough stain should be poured in a shallow cup for the piece of
+work at hand and should then be applied with a brush with the grain of
+the wood in long narrow bands from one end of the work to the other. The
+stain should be wiped with a piece of waste or cloth soon after being
+applied, removing all surplus stain and thus bringing out the grain of
+the wood.
+
+Pains must be taken when staining the edges not to allow the stain to
+run over on the adjacent surface. If it does the stain should be quickly
+wiped off with a piece of waste before it causes the surface to be
+unevenly stained.
+
+There will probably be no necessity in toy construction to use filler on
+the wood so the method of applying this will be omitted.
+
+Next apply a coat of white shellac (reduced by one part of alcohol to
+three parts of shellac), brushing it on quickly with the grain of the
+wood.
+
+Do not have too much shellac on the brush. If laps or runs show, work
+them out with the brush.
+
+After the shellac has dried eight or ten hours it should be rubbed
+lightly with No. 0 sandpaper. Be careful not to sand through the
+shellac, particularly on the edges. A second coat may be applied if
+desired.
+
+For the last coat apply a coat of either hard or liquid wax, the latter
+being preferable.
+
+Shake the can or jar before applying liquid wax. Apply evenly with a
+soft cloth and allow it to dry for an hour. Rub down to the proper
+luster with a soft clean cloth. Two or more coats of wax may be applied
+if desired.
+
+
+
+
+METHOD OF JOINTING WOOD.
+
+
+If, on account of width, certain pieces of work cannot be obtained from
+material at hand, two pieces may have to be joined together.
+
+One edge of each piece to be joined should be carefully planed square
+and straight. Keep trying the two edges together until a satisfactory
+joint is obtained, one so satisfactory that when the edges are placed
+together no joint line is visible. When such a joint is obtained we are
+ready to take the next step--to locate holes for dowels.
+
+This method is shown in Plate 1, Fig. A. Here the two pieces are placed
+face to face and lines are squared across the two edges, planning
+enough space to insure a strong job. Two or three dowels are usually
+sufficient. Locate the centers of all these lines so that the spur of
+the bit will come equidistant from each edge, as shown.
+
+Bore the holes at least twice as deep as the wood is thick. Thus for
+half inch stock the holes should be at least an inch deep.
+
+For half inch and three-eighths inch wood the hole should be bored with
+a quarter inch bit, for wood three-quarter inch to one inch thick a half
+inch bit should be used.
+
+Take extreme care in boring the holes to see that the bit is at right
+angles to the edge of the wood, otherwise difficulties will arise when
+we come to put the work together.
+
+After all holes are bored, the round sticks called dowels should be cut,
+one-eighth inch shorter than the combined depths of the two holes. This
+allowance is made so that glue may work under the ends of the dowels and
+also that the dowels may not be too long and thus prevent the edges of
+the joint from coming together.
+
+Apply glue to the dowels and insert them in the holes and spread glue on
+both of the edges, as shown in Fig. B, Plate 1.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 1._
+
+_METHOD OF JOINTING WOOD_]
+
+Place the work in clamps, if available, protecting the edges of the wood
+from the iron of the clamps with small pieces or blocks of soft wood.
+
+Fig. C shows the clamps in position. If no clamps are at hand a
+makeshift clamp may be made, as shown in Fig. D. In using this clamping
+arrangement a strong piece of wood should be nailed to the floor, where
+such nailing will do no harm, driving the nails only about
+three-quarters of the way in. Place the wood to be clamped against this
+and nail two wedge shaped pieces about an inch and a half away, as
+shown. Prepare other pieces, also of wedge shape, of a proper size to
+drive into place, as indicated.
+
+By a careful study of Fig. D the important features of such a method of
+clamping will be understood.
+
+The cold glue that comes in cans ready for use will be found most
+convenient for the beginner to use. The clamps should remain on the work
+overnight, and when removed the two surfaces of the wood must be cleaned
+of all glue and planed.
+
+
+
+
+SUPPORTS FOR HOLDING COPING SAW WORK.
+
+
+In Plate 2 are shown two devices for holding work while using the coping
+saw. Fig. A is a type of support suitable for use in a vise and is of a
+height that will enable the workman to stand while sawing. Fig. B is
+lower, and the sawing is done while sitting in a chair. This type is
+designed for use where there is no vise and is held secure by a clamp,
+as is shown in the sketch.
+
+[Illustration: Boys using correctly the Supports for Coping Saw Work
+detailed in Plate 2.]
+
+
+
+
+SUPPORT TO BE HELD IN VISE.
+
+
+In making this support the following method should be followed:
+
+The back piece is first made 7/8" × 6-3/4" × 20". The top is made 7/8" ×
+6-3/4 × 12" and the brace 7/8" × 3" × 8-1/2". This brace tapers to a
+point at the lower end. Two small cleats are 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 6-3/4" and
+are attached to the upright piece 1-7/8" up from the bottom edge. This
+allows the support to set firmly in the vise. Measure in from one end of
+the top piece 5" and have this point come half way between the sides. At
+this point a hole is carefully bored with a 3/4" bit. On this same end
+measure in from each edge 2-1/4". From these points draw lines tangent
+to the edges of the circle, as shown. Cut out this V-shaped notch.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 2._
+
+_SUPPORTS FOR HOLDING COPING SAW WORK_]
+
+Bore all holes shown on the drawing with a bit that will allow using
+1-1/4" or 1-1/2". No. 8 flat-head screws. Have all surfaces sanded
+smoothly and assemble with glue and screws.
+
+
+
+
+SUPPORT FOR TABLE USE.
+
+
+For the support shown in Fig. B, Plate 2, we make the upright 7/8" ×
+6-3/4" × 8-7/8". The top is cut 7/8" × 6-3/4" × 12" and the base 7/8" ×
+5" × 6-3/4" and the upright brace 7/8" × 3" × 8". The top has the same
+V-shaped notch cut in it as the other form of support. Bore all
+necessary holes, sandpaper and assemble. The clamp shown in the sketch
+answers the purpose very nicely and may be purchased for a small sum at
+any hardware store.
+
+
+
+
+THE BENCH HOOK.
+
+
+The bench hook is a very useful article to have about the work bench. It
+is made of hard wood, preferably maple. The drawing is shown in Plate
+3. The main piece is made 7/8" × 6" × 12". Two cross cleats are made,
+one being 7/8" × 1-1/2" × 6" and the other 7/8" × 1-1/2" × 5". Holes are
+bored and countersunk at the places shown in the drawing. Great care
+must be taken in cutting these three pieces of wood to see that every
+edge is square and true. One of the cleats is attached on one side of
+the board even with the end, while the other is placed on the other side
+on the opposite end. These are held in place with glue and 1-1/4" No. 8
+flat-head screws. By referring to the drawing and the sketch the idea
+may be readily seen. It will be noticed that the short cleat has its end
+even with the left-hand edge, thus leaving a space of an inch at the
+right. When used with this side up it is for the purpose of sawing off
+small pieces of wood with the back saw, and when used with the other
+side up, on which the long cleat is attached, it is for the purpose of
+planing the end of a piece of wood across the grain.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 3._
+
+_THE BENCH HOOK_]
+
+If a piece of wood is set up in a vise for end planing and the planing
+is done across the grain, the fibers on the further edge have no support
+but break away, as shown in Fig. C, Plate 3. In using the bench-hook the
+wood lies flat on the board and fits tight against the long cleat, and
+the plane is laid flat on its side and pushed back and forth. (Plate 3,
+Fig. A.) It can be readily seen that supported as it now is, the piece
+of wood being planed will not splinter or break on its further edge.
+Pains must be taken, however, to keep the plane flat on its side, not
+raising it on its edge at all, for by so doing the resulting planed edge
+will not be square. This bench-hook may be made quite easily by the
+beginner and besides being a good problem, is a very helpful addition to
+the tool outfit. It works very well when planing wood not over six or
+seven inches wide. Wood wider than this should be planed as follows:
+Place the piece of wood upright in the vise with the end grain
+uppermost, and plane about three-quarters of the way across the edge.
+Then turn the piece and plane the remaining part back in the opposite
+direction. By so doing the end of the wood will not be split.
+
+Figures A and B, Plate 3, show the operation of the bench-hook for both
+sawing and planing.
+
+
+
+
+SIMPLE TOOL SHARPENING.
+
+
+In order to do good, clean-cut, accurate work it is very necessary that
+all cutting tools be kept sharp. And it is important that every boy who
+undertakes toy making have an elementary knowledge of the subject,
+especially an understanding of how to properly sharpen the knife, the
+chisel and the plane blade.
+
+If the tool is very dull, with nicks in the cutting edge, it should be
+ground first on the grindstone. It is quite important that the blade be
+held at the proper angle, about 25 degrees on the stone. A suitable tool
+holder, such as is shown in the illustration on Page 26, is a very
+useful article to have in the tool equipment. The tool is held in place,
+bevel side down, by thumbscrews, and projects beyond the holder a little
+over half an inch.
+
+The grindstone should be thoroughly wet to prevent heating the tool and
+also to insure the washing away of the fine particles of steel from the
+surface of the stone.
+
+The round shape of the stone causes the bevel of the tool to be concave
+if held steadily in one position, as shown in Fig. A, Plate 4. Fig. B
+shows the incorrect result if the blade is not held evenly on the stone.
+It can be readily seen that the latter result will not make a very sharp
+cutting edge.
+
+Care should be taken when grinding not to round the corners of the tool.
+
+The theory of the cutting edge of the tool is the same as that of the
+wedge; the thinner the wedge the easier it is to drive it. However, the
+wedge, as well as the tool, must be thick enough to stand the strain of
+being driven into the wood, or the material which is to be split or cut.
+Too long and thin a bevel, while sharp at first, soon loses its edge
+through usage, while too blunt an edge makes the tool unsatisfactory to
+work with.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 4._
+
+_SIMPLE TOOL SHARPENING_]
+
+The grindstone leaves the tool edge rough, or with a wire edge, as it is
+called. This roughness is removed on the oil stone. One or two drops of
+thin stone oil should be placed on the stone and the tool placed bevel
+side flat on the surface of the stone. Work with a circular motion,
+bearing on the tool with uniform pressure. Turn the blade over, bevel
+side up, seeing that the blade lies perfectly flat on the stone. Work
+with a similar motion. Repeat these operations until the blade is as
+sharp as desired. Wipe the oil from the tool and test by drawing the
+blade lightly across the thumb. If the blade clings to the skin it will
+be found sharp enough.
+
+Fig. C, on Plate 4, shows the correct and incorrect methods of
+oil-stoning the tool blade. Always wipe the stone dry after using, as
+the oil will dry and gum up the grinding surface if not kept clean.
+
+Tool grinding is an important and rather difficult operation at first
+and skill comes only with continued practice.
+
+In sharpening a knife-blade on an oilstone care should be taken to keep
+the blade nearly flat on the stone in order to get a thin, sharp edge.
+The knife should be sharpened first on one side and then on the other,
+until the desired edge is obtained.
+
+Fig. D, Plate 4, shows the right and wrong methods of holding the knife
+blade on the stone. Figures E and F show the results of careless
+sharpening. Fig. G is sharpened correctly.
+
+[Illustration: Grinding Tool on Grindstone using Tool Holder.]
+
+
+
+
+COPING SAW WORK.
+
+
+The following plates of birds and animals (Plates 6 to 17) are
+especially interesting to the beginner and are excellent for the novice
+to prove and improve his skill with the coping saw.
+
+Wood from 1/4" to 1/2" in thickness is best for this type of toy, 3/8"
+being a good medium thickness to use. Pulp board, such as Beaver board,
+is also very good, as there is no grain and, therefore, little liability
+of splitting. Pulp board saws very easily and takes paint nicely.
+
+All of these toys are mounted on a wood base, made of 1/2" wood, of a
+size shown on the various drawings. The animal is attached to the base
+with glue and 1-1/4" brads.
+
+Wheels can be made from a round stick (called a dowel) an inch in
+diameter by carefully sawing off pieces 3/8" thick.
+
+Holes are bored at the middle point of these wheels large enough to
+allow them to turn easily on a 1" No. 6 round-head blue screw. Washers
+should be placed on the screws on both sides of the wheels.
+
+Plate 6 gives a general idea of the toy base.
+
+
+
+
+DOWEL STICKS.
+
+
+Dowel sticks are very useful to the toy maker and an assortment of
+various sizes should be kept on hand. They are very handy in many ways
+in toy making and furniture construction. They come in sizes from 1/4"
+to 1" in diameter or larger, in 30" lengths, and cost from two to three
+cents apiece.
+
+Dowel sticks are usually carried in stock by local hardware men or may
+be obtained from manufacturers of mill work.
+
+
+
+
+PICTURE PUZZLE CONSTRUCTION.
+
+
+The problem illustrated in Plate 5 is very interesting and especially
+good for the beginner.
+
+First, select a picture of the size desired from a calendar or discarded
+magazine. Colored pictures are the best.
+
+Prepare a piece of 1/4" soft wood, such as bass or pine, and glue the
+picture to the surface, rolling and pressing out air bubbles and
+smoothing away all wrinkles. Place a weight on the picture and allow it
+to dry overnight.
+
+Holding the coping saw so that the blade is straight up and down, or in
+other words, at right angles with the surface of the work, saw out
+irregular shaped pieces similar to those shown in the accompanying
+drawing.
+
+If these pieces are placed in a neat Christmas box, such as may be
+purchased at the five-and-ten-cent store, it will make a very pleasing
+Christmas gift.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 5._
+
+_PICTURE PUZZLE CONSTRUCTION_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 6._
+
+_PELICAN_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 7._
+
+_DUCK_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 8._
+
+_GOOSE_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 9._
+
+_RHINOCEROS_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 10._
+
+_ELEPHANT_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 11._
+
+_RABBIT_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 12._
+
+_LAMB_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 13._
+
+_GOAT_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 14._
+
+_ROOSTER_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 15._
+
+_CAMEL_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 16._
+
+_METHOD OF ENLARGING FIGURES_]
+
+
+
+
+METHOD OF ENLARGING FIGURES.
+
+
+If a figure shown in a book or in any picture is to be enlarged the
+following method is very simple:
+
+Enclose the figure in a rectangle and divide it in quarter inch squares,
+like the drawing of the duck in Plate 16.
+
+If the drawing is to be enlarged twice the original size, draw a
+rectangle on a piece of paper or cardboard twice as large as the
+picture. Divide it into exactly the same number of squares, which will
+now be twice as large as before, or one-half inch on a side. Letter and
+number all parts to agree.
+
+Start now and sketch the enlarged figure, having the lines pass through
+the same places in the squares of the large rectangle as in the small.
+
+With a little patience it will be surprising how accurate a copy can be
+made.
+
+A picture may be reduced by the same method.
+
+
+
+
+DIPPY DUCK.
+
+
+This toy is larger than the regular cut-out figure and has added action
+by the placing of the inner piece off-center on the larger wheel, thus
+causing the duck to move up and down as the toy is pulled along on the
+floor.
+
+As shown in the drawing (Plate 17), the base is made of four separate
+pieces, because it is easier to construct it this way than to cut out
+the slot from a solid piece. The wood used is 7/8" pine, the two long
+pieces being 1-1/2" wide by 15" long and the two end pieces 1-1/4" wide
+by 2-1/2" long. These are glued and chamfered. A small chamfer is planed
+around the top edge, as shown.
+
+The small base piece on which the duck rests is made 7/8" × 1" × 7-1/2".
+A hole is bored 2" from one end with a 1/2" bit and the slot is sawed
+out. The opposite end is rounded.
+
+A hole is bored in the end where the slot is cut 3/8" from the end, of a
+size that will take a piece of 16-penny nail tightly. The nail is cut
+one inch long and serves as an axle for the large wheel. A similar hole
+is bored, 3/8" from the other end, with a larger drill so that the nail
+used at this point will be smaller than the hole, allowing the base
+piece to move easily upon it.
+
+The large wheel is made by cutting a piece from a curtain rod 2-1/4" in
+diameter or by turning down a piece to this diameter on the lathe. This
+wheel is cut 3/8" thick. The four main wheels are 1-3/4" in diameter and
+3/8" thick. These wheels have a small hole bored exactly in their
+center, of a size large enough to allow a shingle, or a screw, nail to
+turn easily within.
+
+The wheels are attached two inches from the ends and the nails are
+driven in straight so as to insure the wheels turning evenly. A screw
+eye is placed at the front end, as shown, to which is attached a string
+to pull it by.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 17._
+
+_DIPPY DUCK_]
+
+All parts should be nicely sanded before assembling and then given two
+coats of paint. A suggested color scheme is given on the drawing.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 18._
+
+_MONITOR_ (_revolving turret_)]
+
+
+
+
+THE MONITOR.
+
+
+This design is what might be called an amphibious toy, which means one
+that is at home both on the land and water.
+
+The base, or hull, is made from a piece of 1/2" board, 5-1/4" wide and
+14" long. At a point on the long edges, 4-1/2" from the ends, a center
+is taken with a compass, or pair of dividers, set at 5-1/4" radius, as
+shown in the drawing. Strike all of these curves and cut to the line
+with a coping saw and finish smooth.
+
+The main turret and the two smaller blocks are either turned on a lathe
+or cut from a cylindrical piece of wood. If care is used the pieces can
+also be cut with a turning saw from a piece of wood of the required
+thickness. The two smaller pieces are cut from a piece of 7/8" board and
+are 1-3/4" in diameter and are attached with 1" brads and glue, 1-3/4"
+from each end.
+
+For the main turret, which is to be movable, a hole is bored in the hull
+exactly in the middle. In boring, a bit a little larger than the size of
+a 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screw is used, in order that the screw shank
+will move easily. This hole is countersunk on the under side. A smaller
+hole is started on the under side of the turret to receive the screw
+and, when the pieces are assembled, the screw is not screwed up tight,
+but enough play is left so that the turret will revolve fairly easily.
+
+[Illustration: The Monitor and the Merrimac and Animal Toys.]
+
+The two "guns" may be cut from 5/8" dowels, 2-3/8" long, or may be
+turned on a lathe. Two holes are bored, on opposite sides of the turret,
+3/8" deep, to receive the guns which are glued in.
+
+The two pieces to which the wheels are attached are made 1/2" × 3/4" ×
+4", and are secured in place 4" from bow and stern with shingle nails
+and glue.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 19._
+
+_MERRIMAC_]
+
+The four wheels are cut from 1" dowels, 7/8" thick.
+
+A hole is bored exactly in the middle of each wheel a little larger than
+the wire of a shingle nail, which is used to hold them in place on the
+base.
+
+A small piece of 1/4" dowel about 2-1/4" long, is inserted in a hole,
+bored with a 1/4" bit, 3/4" from the bow. This is the flagstaff, and
+just in front of this is placed a small screw eye to attach the string
+for pulling the toy. Give the entire toy two coats of black paint.
+
+
+
+
+THE MERRIMAC.
+
+
+The Confederate Ironclad is a little harder to make than the Monitor,
+but it is well within the ability of a sixth grade boy.
+
+The hull is made 1/2" × 5-1/4" × 14", and is sawed to a point at the bow
+and stern, sloping from the center point of both ends to points 3-1/4"
+from either end.
+
+The upper works are made from a block of wood 1-3/4" thick, 4-1/2" wide
+and 7-1/2" long. This is beveled so that the top is 3-1/4" × 6-1/4".
+
+The two smokestacks are made from pieces of 3/4" dowel, cut 3-1/4" long
+and inserted in holes bored 1/2" deep, 1" from the sides of the upper
+deck and 3-1/8" from the ends. These are held in place with glue.
+
+The flagstaff is cut from a piece of 1/4" dowel, 2-3/8" long, inserted
+in a hole, bored with a 1/4" bit, 3/4" from the bow.
+
+Just in front of this, 1/4" from the end, is placed a small screw-eye to
+which a string may be attached.
+
+The ten "guns" are made from 1/2" dowels, cut 1" long, and at an angle
+so that the lower side is 7/8" long. This is so that they will fit
+against the sloping sides of the turret.
+
+A hole is bored from end to end of each gun, in their centers, so that a
+1-1/2" finish nail will fit in nicely.
+
+The guns are held in place with these nails and with glue at the points
+indicated on the drawing.
+
+The upper works and hull are held together with 1" brads and glue, in
+such a manner that the gun turret is equally distant from the ends and
+sides of the hull.
+
+The pieces which hold the wheels are made 1/2" × 3/4" × 4" and are
+nailed and glued in place, 3-1/2" from bow and stern.
+
+The wheels are 3/8" thick, cut from 1" dowels, and are held by shingle
+nails driven into the axle in such a way that they will turn freely.
+
+The holes for the nails, in the wheels, are bored exactly in their
+centers with a bit a little larger than the nail to be used.
+
+After sanding and assembling give the boat two coats of black or battle
+ship gray paint.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 20._
+
+_CHILD'S SNOW SHOVEL_]
+
+
+
+
+CHILD'S SNOW SHOVEL.
+
+
+This problem is simple and of interest to young people during early
+winter. (Plate 20.)
+
+The handle may be made square in section first and then gradually
+rounded with a plane and then filed and sanded; or a discarded handle
+from some other implement may be utilized. The handle should be 28"
+long, and a hole should be bored and a rivet inserted 11-5/8" from one
+end. This is to reinforce the handle where the saw cut comes. This cut
+is made directly along the center of the handle and stops 11" from the
+end. If this cut is not made exactly in the center, the spreading, when
+the grip is inserted, will be unequal, and the shovel will not be in
+balance.
+
+The two ends of the shovel are rounded, as indicated, and the lower end
+is cut at an angle to fit the surface of the shovel.
+
+The grip should be cut from a 1" dowel and then cut to fit the angle
+formed by the spreading sides of the shovel.
+
+This is held in place by 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screws with washers, as
+indicated.
+
+The broad part of the shovel is cut from one piece, if possible, 1/2" ×
+8" × 10-1/2", and the front end cut an angle which is reinforced with a
+piece of zinc, 3-1/4" × 8", bent over and held by rivets and washers, as
+shown.
+
+The brace under the handle is cut 3/4" × 1-5/8" × 8" and then planed
+from an upper edge to within an inch of the opposite lower edge and
+secured in place with screws. The handle is attached to the blade with
+rivets and washers, as shown on the drawing.
+
+
+
+
+THE PERISCOPE.
+
+
+This is an interesting problem and demonstrates a scientific principle.
+
+For a periscope of the size shown in the drawing (Plate 21), two pieces
+of looking glass must be first cut 2-1/4" × 2-7/8".
+
+Pieces A are cut 3/8" × 2" × 4-1/4"; pieces B are 3/8" × 2-3/4" ×
+4-1/4"; pieces C, 3/8" × 1-7/8" × 2-3/4"; pieces D, 3/8" × 2" × 17-1/4";
+pieces E, 3/8" × 2-3/4" × 18-7/8"; and pieces F, 3/8" × 2-3/4" ×
+18-7/8".
+
+Two grooves 1/8" deep, and of a width to receive the thickness of the
+glass used, should be cut at an angle of 45 degrees, where indicated on
+the drawing. This groove is cut in pieces A only.
+
+All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1 sandpaper and finished
+with No. 0. Assemble, as shown on the drawing, using glue and 1" brads.
+
+The final finish may be stain or paint. Whatever finish is used should
+be of a dark color as best suited for a periscope.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 21._
+
+_PERISCOPE_]
+
+[Illustration: The Periscope in Use.]
+
+
+
+
+DOLL'S IRONING BOARD.
+
+(Size A.)
+
+
+This problem has proven very popular in toy-making classes and has been
+one of the best sellers at toy sales. It folds up compactly and is
+strong and serviceable.
+
+Plates 22, 23 and 24 show the ironing board in three sizes for children
+of varying ages.
+
+Plate 22 is for children of about three years of age, and the material
+is prepared as follows:
+
+The top is first made of 1/2" lumber and is 6" wide and 20" long. Set
+the dividers with a 3" radius and strike an arc just touching the end
+and two sides of the board. Do the same on the other end, using a 2-1/2"
+radius.
+
+[Illustration: The Three Types of Ironing Boards.]
+
+Connect these arcs with straight lines and saw and plane carefully just
+to the lines all around. The turning saw may be used on the ends.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 22._
+
+_DOLL'S IRONING BOARD_ (_Size A_)]
+
+Slightly round the upper edge of the surface which is to be uppermost.
+
+The legs are next cut to size, the two longer ones being 1/2" × 1" × 19"
+and the two shorter ones 1/2" × 1" × 18-3/4".
+
+One end of each is rounded by striking an arc with a 1-1/2" radius, at
+the extreme end. The other ends of the legs are cut off at an angle, as
+shown in the drawing.
+
+Holes are bored in the rounded ends of the long legs, 1/2" from the ends
+with a No. 3 bit. Another hole of similar size is bored 8-1/4" from the
+one previously bored. These holes are all 1/2" from the edges.
+
+On the short legs the only holes necessary are bored 8-1/4" from the
+rounded end.
+
+The long legs are attached by screws to a cleat which itself is screwed
+to the underside of the top of the board, as shown. This cleat is 7/8" ×
+1-1/8" × 4-1/2" and is glued and held to the top by 1-1/4" flat-head
+screws, two of them being sufficient. These are countersunk.
+
+The separating piece at the other end of the long legs is 1/2" × 1" ×
+4-9/16" and is held in place by 1-1/4" brads and glue. It is attached 2"
+from the ends.
+
+Two separating pieces are next made for the short legs, 1/2" × 1" ×
+3-1/2", and these are attached in the same manner as the piece between
+the long legs.
+
+A cleat 7/8" × 1" × 3-7/16" is attached with glue and 1-1/2" flat-head
+screws, 2" from the small end of the board. This holds the short legs in
+position.
+
+All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper before
+being assembled. No further finish is necessary.
+
+
+
+
+DOLL'S IRONING BOARD.
+
+(Size B.)
+
+The method of constructing this board is identical with the method
+suggested for board A. The difference is in the size of the pieces.
+(Plate 23.)
+
+This type of ironing board is suitable for a child from four to six
+years of age.
+
+The top is 5/8" thick, 7-3/4" wide and 24-1/2" long.
+
+The curved ends are struck with the dividers in the same way as in the
+preceding problem.
+
+The legs are next cut to dimension, the longer ones being 9/16" × 1-1/8"
+× 24", and the shorter 9/16" × 1-1/8" × 22-1/2".
+
+One end of each leg is rounded by setting the dividers at 9/16" and
+cutting to the line and cutting the opposite ends at an angle, as shown
+in the drawing.
+
+Bore holes with a No. 3 bit in the rounded ends of the long legs, 5/8"
+from the ends and a similar hole is bored 9-1/2" from the hole
+previously bored. These holes are all 9/16" in from the edges.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 23._
+
+_DOLL'S IRONING BOARD_ (_Size B_)]
+
+On the short legs the only holes bored are made with the same bit,
+9-3/8" from the rounded ends.
+
+The long legs are attached to a cleat by 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head blue
+screws, with washers under both the heads of the screws and between the
+screws and the cleat.
+
+The cleat is 7/8" × 1-1/8" × 5-7/8" and is glued and screwed to the
+under side of the top with 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screws.
+
+These are countersunk.
+
+The separating piece at the other end of the long legs is 3/8" × 1-1/8"
+× 5-15/16" and is held in place by 1-1/4" brads and glue, and is
+attached 3" from the end.
+
+Two separating pieces are next made for the short legs, 3/8" × 1-1/8" ×
+4-1/2", and these are attached in the same way as the piece between the
+longer legs.
+
+A cleat 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 4-7/16" is attached with glue and 1-3/4"
+flat-head screws, 4" from the small end of the board. This holds the
+short legs in position. Refer to the detail on the drawing of the size A
+ironing board (Plate 22) for the method of making the button which holds
+the board rigid.
+
+All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper before
+being assembled.
+
+No further finish is necessary.
+
+
+
+
+DOLL'S IRONING BOARD.
+
+(Size C.)
+
+
+The method of constructing this size board is similar to the other two
+types. (Plate 24.)
+
+This size board is suitable for children from six to eight years of age.
+
+The top is made 3/4" thick, 9" wide and 30" long. The dividers are set
+with a 4-1/2" radius and an arc is struck to touch the end and two sides
+of the board. A similar arc is struck at the opposite end with a 3-1/2"
+radius.
+
+These arcs are connected with a straight line, and the outline is cut
+with a saw and finally planed to the lines. The curved ends can be cut
+with a turning saw and finished with a chisel and file.
+
+The upper edges are slightly rounded with a file and sandpaper.
+
+The legs are next cut to size, two being 3/4" × 1-1/4" × 27-7/8", and
+the other two 3/4" × 1-1/4" × 29".
+
+One end of each is rounded by striking an arc with a 5/8" radius, at the
+extreme end. The other ends of the legs are cut at an angle, as shown in
+the drawing.
+
+Holes are bored in the rounded end of the short legs, 5/8" from the
+ends, of a size that will take a 1-3/4" No. 10 round-head blue screw.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 24._
+
+_DOLL'S IRONING BOARD_ (_Size C_)]
+
+Another hole of similar size is bored 11" from this. These holes are all
+5/8" from the edges.
+
+On the other two legs the only two holes necessary are bored 12-1/2"
+from the rounded ends.
+
+The shorter legs are attached by screws to a cleat which itself is
+screwed to the underside of the board, 4-1/2" from the large end. This
+cleat is 1" × 1-1/4" × 6-3/4" and is held in place with glue and 1-3/4"
+flat-head screws, countersunk. Two of these screws are sufficient.
+
+The separating piece at the other end of the legs is 3/4" × 1-1/4" ×
+6-13/16", and is held in place by 1-1/2" brads and glue, and is attached
+3-1/2" from the ends.
+
+Two separating pieces are next made for the long legs, 3/4" × 1-1/4" ×
+5-1/4", and these are attached in the same manner as the pieces between
+the other set of legs.
+
+A cleat 1-1/8" × 1-3/8" × 5-3/16" is attached with glue and 2" flat-head
+screws, 5-1/2" from the small end of the board. This holds the short
+legs in position.
+
+The wood button, shown on the drawing for the Size A ironing board
+(Plate 22), is attached to this cleat and prevents the board from
+collapsing.
+
+All pieces should be thoroughly sandpapered with No. 1/2 sandpaper
+before being assembled.
+
+No further finish is necessary.
+
+
+
+
+DOLL'S CLOTHES RACK.
+
+
+This folding clothes rack is an interesting toy and requires some skill
+in assembling. (Plate 25.)
+
+[Illustration: Playing House is real fun with such a dolls' clothes
+rack, ironing board, wash bench, table and stepladder.]
+
+The four legs are cut 3/8" × 3/4" × 13" and each end is rounded by first
+striking semicircles on the ends, using a 3/8" radius, and then
+finishing with a chisel carefully to the line.
+
+Holes are bored in these legs with a 1/4" bit in the following places:
+3/8" from the top, 4-7/8" beyond this, 3-1/4" beyond this, and 1-3/4"
+beyond this. Extreme care must be taken not to split the wood. Bore
+through from one side until the spur of the bit just starts to come
+through, then remove the bit and bore back from the other side.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 25._
+
+_DOLL'S CLOTHES RACK_]
+
+Next cut the four top pieces to size, two being 3/8" × 3/4" × 6" and two
+3/8" × 3/4" × 7". These are also rounded on both ends. Holes are bored
+3/8" from each end of all of these and also half way between their ends,
+as shown in Plate 25.
+
+These pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper.
+
+The cross pieces are cut from 1/4" dowels as follows: Four pieces,
+8-3/4" long; six pieces, 8" long; and one piece, 7-1/4" long.
+
+The long dowel sticks are the ones that go at points a, b, c and d,
+Plate 25, on the outside legs. The 8" dowels go at points e, f, g, h, i,
+and j. The single short dowel goes at point k.
+
+Examine the drawing carefully and see that the four top pieces are
+placed on the correct dowels. Hold all dowels, which are not at movable
+points, with 3/4" brads.
+
+Be sure every piece is in its proper position before driving in the
+brads and then be positive that no brad is being driven at a point where
+the dowel must be free to move in the hole. It is always best to
+assemble the rack completely and by closing and opening it learn clearly
+just where the brads are to be placed.
+
+No further finish is necessary.
+
+
+
+
+CHILD'S WASH BENCH.
+
+
+This bench may be made in various sizes to fit different heights of
+children. The top consists of three slats and for the size bench shown
+in Plate 26, the slats are made 3/8" × 1-3/4" × 18". These slats have
+screw holes bored 2-3/8" from the ends and 3/8" from the edges, as
+shown. These are countersunk to receive 1" No. 6 flat-head screws.
+
+Two braces are made 3/4" × 1/4" × 8". These are to support the slats.
+One inch from one end of these braces, and 5/8" from the edges, a hole
+is bored with a 3/8" bit. The same distance from the other end a similar
+hole is bored and a piece is sawed out, as shown in the drawing, to
+receive and support the dowel rod.
+
+The legs of the bench are cut 3/8" × 1" × 12-3/4". One-half inch from
+one end a hole is bored with a 3/8" bit. One and one-half inches from
+the other end a similar hole is bored and 7" from the same end the third
+hole is bored, making three in each leg. Care must be taken in boring
+these holes not to split the work as the bit goes through. Bore through
+on one side until the spur of the bit just starts through on the
+opposite side. Remove the bit and place the spur point in the small hole
+made by the spur and bore back in the opposite direction.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 26._
+
+_CHILD'S WASH BENCH_]
+
+The two cross slats forming the braces are 3/8" × 3/4" × 13". A center
+lap joint is made by cutting through half way on both slats at such an
+angle as will cause the outer edge of the slats to be about five inches
+apart. The ends of the slats should be sawed at such an angle as will
+make them flush with the sides of the legs and small holes drilled and
+countersunk so that they may be attached with 3/4" No. 4 flat-head
+screws.
+
+Two 3/8" dowel rods should next be cut, one being 12-1/2" long and the
+other 14" long.
+
+These dowels should be held in place in the legs by 3/4" brads, care
+being taken not to nail where there is to be a moving joint.
+
+All pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper.
+
+No other finish is necessary.
+
+
+
+
+CHILD'S STEP LADDER.
+
+
+This step ladder may be made in various sizes, the one shown here being
+suitable for children up to seven or eight years of age. (Plate 27.)
+
+The two front legs should be cut first, 5/8" × 2-1/4" × 21". It will be
+noticed that the two ends are cut off at an angle. This angle is
+obtained by measuring back on one side 1" and drawing to this point from
+the opposite corner. Make all of these angles equal and if possible cut
+them in a miter-box.
+
+The two rear legs, or braces, are cut 5/8" × 1-1/8" × 17-3/4", and the
+two ends are rounded. The semicircle is marked out by setting the
+dividers, or a compass, at a 9/16" radius and striking the curve tangent
+to the sides and ends of the legs.
+
+Two holes are bored with a No. 8 bit, 5/16" from one end of the rear
+legs and 1-1/4" from the other end, as indicated, care being taken not
+to split the wood.
+
+The top step is next made 5/8" × 5-1/4" × 9-3/4", and the top edges
+slightly rounded.
+
+Two holes are bored with a small drill, 1-1/2" from the ends of this
+step and 1" from the rear and front edges of both ends. These should be
+countersunk. Later, when assembled, this top is screwed to the braces
+with 1" No. 6 flat-head screws, as shown in the front view. (Plate 27.)
+
+Two braces are next made 5/8" × 2" × 5-1/4", and are cut off at either
+end at the same angle as were the ends of the front legs. These are
+attached to the inside of the legs, at the top, as shown in the side
+view, with four 1" No. 6 flat-head screws and glue. Care should be taken
+to get them just even with the front and top sides of the legs. Before
+the braces are attached a hole should be bored with a No. 8 bit 5/8"
+from the top edge and 1" from the left-hand edge to receive the dowel
+stick on which the rear leg swings.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 27._
+
+_CHILD'S STEP LADDER_]
+
+While boring this hole the end should be held with a clamp to prevent
+splitting.
+
+The two lower steps are next made. These are 5/8" thick and are cut 3"
+wide. The width is greater than is needed, and is provided that the
+steps may be planed even with the edges of the legs later. The steps are
+cut 8" in length.
+
+The next operation is cutting grooves for the steps to set into the
+legs, and this requires considerable care.
+
+The lower step is 5-3/4" from the lower end of the legs. This dimension
+is measured off on each leg, and a line is drawn parallel with the lower
+end of the leg. This may be done by either using a T bevel, set at the
+angle of the lower end of the legs, or the dimension, 5-3/4", may be
+measured up on both sides of the leg and a line drawn across.
+
+Next take the lower step and mark one end A and the other end B. Place
+the end A, of the lower step, evenly on this line and make a mark above
+the first line a little less than the thickness of the step. The groove
+is marked a little less than the thickness of the step so that, in case
+the saw cut is made a little wide, the step will not be likely to fit
+loosely.
+
+Square lines across both edges of the edge from the end of the lines
+previously drawn and measure down from the surface a distance of 1/4" on
+the edges. Draw a line through this point parallel to the edge of the
+leg.
+
+Next saw carefully on the lines, first drawn, down as far as this last
+line and cut the wood out with a half-inch chisel.
+
+If the step will not fit in the slot, plane a very slight amount from
+the surface of the step until it fits snugly into the groove.
+
+End B is fitted to the opposite leg in a similar way and the second step
+is placed in a like manner, 6-7/8" above the lower step.
+
+If the drawing is examined, as these directions for placing the steps
+are read, the explanation will be greatly simplified.
+
+The two narrow cross braces are next made, 3/8" × 5/8" × 15-1/2". These
+are crossed at their middle point in a middle-lap joint, a groove being
+cut half through each piece wide enough to insure a tight joint. These
+braces are attached to the rear legs, 2-1/2" from their lower ends, with
+3/4" No. 6 flat-head screws, the holes being previously bored and
+countersunk.
+
+Cut the ends of the braces even with the ends of the legs.
+
+Holes are bored with a small bit in the grooves in the legs, 1/2" in
+from the sides, as shown. These holes are for the round-head screws
+which hold the steps in place. The steps are held in the grooves of the
+legs with glue and 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 28._
+
+_DOLL'S TABLE WITH DRAWER_]
+
+The dowel sticks are now cut 8-3/4" long from a 1/2" dowel and, after
+all pieces of wood are carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper, the step
+ladder is assembled.
+
+A 3/4" brad should be driven into the edge of the rear legs so that it
+will penetrate and hold the dowel in place.
+
+A piece of small chain should be fastened to each front and rear leg, as
+shown, of a length sufficient to have the front legs of the ladder set
+flat on the ground. Also take care that the two chains are even with
+each other and parallel with the ground. No further finish is required.
+
+
+
+
+DOLL'S TABLE WITH DRAWER.
+
+
+While this table may be made in various sizes, the one shown in the
+accompanying drawing has proven very popular.
+
+The four legs are first made 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 12". Measure down 3" from
+one end and taper the legs equally from this point to a width of 7/8" at
+the opposite ends, as shown.
+
+The two side rails are made 1/2" × 2-7/8" × 6-1/2". The two front rails
+above and below the drawer are cut 1/2" × 1/2" × 12".
+
+On the side and rear rails, centers for dowels are located 5/8" from
+the top and lower edges and half way between the sides. An inch brad is
+driven in a short distance at these points, and the head is cut off
+about 1/4" above the surface of the wood. These ends are now placed so
+that their upper edges are even with the top of the legs. Press down
+lightly on the rails and a mark will be made on the surface of the legs.
+
+Remove the brads and bore the dowel hole with a 1/4" bit, 1-1/4" deep.
+
+The two drawer rails are treated in the same manner and the holes are
+bored.
+
+The top will no doubt have to be made of two pieces of wood jointed and
+glued together, and reinforced with dowels.
+
+The finished dimensions are 3/8" × 12" × 19".
+
+Short blocks of wood are screwed to the rear and two side rails even
+with their tops, and screws are later put through these from their under
+side to hold the top in place. A 3/4" No. 6 screw is placed in the
+center of the upper drawer rail to assist in holding the top in place.
+(See Plate 28 for details of the method of attaching the top.)
+
+Two strips of wood 1/2" wide, and thick and long enough to fit tightly
+between the front and rear rails, are made to serve as drawer slides.
+
+Similar strips of wood are glued to the inner part of the end rails to
+cause the drawer to run evenly. These strips are just thick enough to
+bring their surface even with the edge of the leg.
+
+All rails should be thoroughly sanded and then assembled with glue,
+screws, and brads as directed, the rails and legs being clamped for
+several hours to insure a tight fit.
+
+If the various parts of the table have been accurately made, the drawer
+should be now constructed to the dimensions called for in the drawing.
+If there has been any error in the making of the several pieces, of
+course the drawer must be made to fit the space in that individual
+table.
+
+The drawer front is 3/8" × 1-7/8" × 12". The sides are 1/4" × 1-7/8" ×
+11-1/2". These dimensions may all have to be trimmed down somewhat to
+secure an easy sliding fit. The drawer construction is clearly shown in
+the sketch. Bottom pieces of 1/4" wood are cut to fit, and after
+sanding, all pieces are glued and bradded together.
+
+Handles of the size shown in the drawing may be turned on the lathe or
+made by hand, and placed as indicated.
+
+As this type of table is patterned after the ordinary kitchen table it
+may be left unfinished.
+
+
+
+
+COLONIAL DOLL'S TABLE.
+
+
+This table, with the accompanying chairs shown in Plate 30, makes a very
+artistic and interesting problem in toy-making.
+
+The table and chairs work up very nicely if made of oak and stained a
+mission brown. They may also be made of soft wood and stained or
+painted. Directions for staining may be found in the front part of the
+book.
+
+The top (Plate 29) is made 3/8" × 11" × 16" and, if a piece of wood 11"
+wide is not obtainable, two narrow pieces will have to be joined. (See
+method of joining wood on page 18.)
+
+The four uprights are made 1" × 1" × 6-1/4", and the four cross pieces
+5/8" × 1" × 8".
+
+The ends of the cross pieces are cut at a bevel, as shown, and notches
+are cut 1-1/8" from each end, 1/8" deep, to receive the ends of the
+upright. Care must be taken to get a snug fit. It is better to have the
+notches a trifle too small than too large. If cut a little small, the
+uprights are easily made to fit the grooves by planing a slight amount
+from their edges.
+
+Four bottom pieces are made 1/4" × 1-1/4" × 1-1/4", to be attached to
+the lower cross piece, as shown, allowing 1/8" projection all around.
+They are fastened with 1/2" brads and glue. When attaching, see that the
+grain of the little square pieces runs the same as the cross pieces. On
+account of the thinness of the wood, holes may have to be bored for the
+brads. If no small drill is at hand a brad may be used as a drill.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 29._
+
+_COLONIAL DOLL'S TABLE_]
+
+Holes are bored in the two upper cross pieces, 3/4" from their ends.
+These are countersunk to receive 3/4" No.6 flat-head screws, when
+assembling, and are to hold the top in place.
+
+Holes are likewise bored for the same size screws, 1-5/8" from each end
+of the four cross pieces, which brings the holes in the center of each
+notch. These holes are also countersunk.
+
+The long lower brace is made 5/16" × 2-1/2" × 12". When assembling, this
+piece is located as shown in the drawing and is held in place with glue
+and 1/2" brads.
+
+Sand all pieces carefully with No.1 sandpaper first and finish with No.
+0.
+
+If stain is to be used, it may be found easier to stain the pieces
+before assembling. Assemble as previously described, using glue where
+necessary and turning all screws up tightly. Apply final finish as
+desired.
+
+
+
+
+COLONIAL DOLL'S CHAIR.
+
+
+This chair goes with the Colonial Table shown in the preceding drawing
+(Plate 29), and at least two chairs should be made to form the set.
+
+The sides are first cut from 3/8" material, 5" wide and 11-1/2" long.
+
+A freehand curve, following the general design of the one shown, should
+be traced on a piece of paper, cut to the above size. After the outline
+is satisfactory, the design should be traced on the wood preparatory to
+cutting out. The cutting should be done with a coping saw, cutting to
+the line for a finish. Place the two sides together to see if they
+match. Variations should be trimmed down so that the pieces are exact
+duplicates.
+
+The back is next made, 3/8" × 5-1/8" × 10-3/4".
+
+The seat is made 3/8" × 4-1/2" × 5-1/8", and the front board of the seat
+measures 3/8" × 3-1/2" × 5-1/8". The seat is rounded on the front edge,
+and the front board of seat is beveled at top and bottom to set snugly
+under the seat, at the slight angle shown. This angle is obtained by
+measuring in 1-3/8" from the front, as shown in the side view.
+
+Sandpaper all pieces thoroughly and assemble the sides and back first,
+with glue and 3/4" brads. Set these brads below the surface and fill the
+cavity with hard beeswax. Assemble the seat and front board next, and
+then nail these between the sides of the chair, as shown in the drawing.
+
+Finish as desired. See Pages 15 to 18 for method of staining and
+painting.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 30._
+
+_COLONIAL DOLL'S CHAIR_]
+
+
+
+
+RING-THE-HOOK GAME.
+
+
+This game is very simple in construction yet affords a great deal of
+pleasure to young people. (Plate 31.)
+
+The desired outline, the dimensions for which are given in the drawing,
+is sketched on a piece of folded paper, as is shown by the sketch, and
+the design is then cut out and traced on a piece of wood cut from stock
+5/8" × 11" × 12".
+
+The cutting should be roughly done with a turning saw and finished
+carefully to the line with a chisel and file.
+
+A small chamfer gives a finished appearance if placed on the front edge.
+
+The board should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first, and
+then finished with No. 0. The final finish may be several coats of
+shellac or two coats of a bright lively color of paint. If a shellac
+finish is used, the numbers should be lettered in with water-proof India
+ink, after the first coat of shellac is dry, and the second coat should
+be applied over this.
+
+If paint is the finish selected, the numbers may be put on with the ink
+after the final coat is dry.
+
+Hooks are located at the various points shown on the drawing, and pains
+should be taken to get them in perpendicular to the surface of the
+board. Place a screw-hook at the top to hang up by.
+
+The rings used are the ordinary preserve jar rings and ten should
+constitute a set.
+
+The board should be placed on the wall, about five feet from the floor
+and the contestants should stand about six feet from it.
+
+The idea is to toss the rings in such a manner that they will land over
+the hooks. The best results are obtained by holding the ring between the
+thumb and the first two fingers, at right angles to the floor. Throw in
+such a way that the ring will strike flat against the board. With a
+little practice considerable accuracy can be developed in placing the
+rings.
+
+A score of one hundred should constitute a game.
+
+
+
+
+FIVE POST RING TOSS.
+
+
+Although the game of ring toss is an old one, yet it never loses its
+attraction for many young people, and older ones as well.
+
+The type of ring toss shown in the accompanying plate is a little
+variety from the regular form, each post being painted and numbered with
+the points scored by ringing that particular post. (Plate 32.)
+
+The middle post, painted black, is a minus score, the ring falling on
+this causing a loss of five points.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 31._
+
+_RING THE HOOK GAME_]
+
+The rings, five in number, are painted at their joining points with
+colors similar to the posts. If a ring falls over a post of the same
+color as that painted on the ring the score is doubled. A black ring on
+the black post doubles the loss. The board should be set on the floor
+about eight feet from the contestants. The best results can be obtained
+by holding the rings by the thick, heavy part, parallel to the floor,
+and tossing quite high in order that they may fall flat from a point
+above the posts.
+
+[Illustration: The Ring Toss.]
+
+The posts are made with a tenon, which fits snugly in a mortise, and are
+removable so that they may be taken out when not in use. The rings may
+be made of various materials, such as rope and rattan. A very
+satisfactory ring is made by the writer's classes, by using chair
+spline. This is a rattan, light, cheap and easily bent, and may be
+bought of any firm dealing in upholstery and chair-seating materials. A
+piece about 17" long is bent in circular form, overlapping about an inch
+and held with two 1/2" brads, cleated on the underside, as shown. Wrap
+with white friction tape.
+
+The base of the ring toss is first cut 7/8" × 15" × 20". The center of
+each side and end is located and these points are connected, forming a
+diamond shape. Cut to this line and plane the edges smooth. Plane a 1/8"
+chamfer around the upper edge.
+
+Post A is made 1" × 1" × 11-3/4"; posts B and C are 1" × 1" × 8-1/4";
+post D, 1" × 1" × 5-1/4"; and post E, 1" × 1" × 6-3/4". All of these
+posts are chamfered about 1/8" at the top.
+
+It will be noticed, by referring to the drawing of the side view, that
+each post is an inch square for a certain distance up and from that
+point they taper to 1/2" square at the top. These measurements are
+figured from the shoulder where they rest upon the board, there being a
+1/2" tenon below. These tenons are cut so that they will be 1/2" square
+and 3/4" long.
+
+All holes or mortises are located 1-1/2" directly in from the corner or
+point at which they rest, except the center post, which is at the center
+point of the board. These mortises should be a fairly tight fit, yet
+allowing for the removal of the uprights when not in use.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 32._
+
+_FIVE POST RING-TOSS_]
+
+The color scheme is suggested on the drawing but may be changed to suit
+the individual taste. After painting or shellacking the board the first
+coat, the numbers should be lettered in, using waterproof India ink, and
+then the second coat applied.
+
+
+
+
+BEAN BAG GAME.
+
+
+This is another very popular and interesting game and gives the girls in
+the domestic science course a little opportunity to show their skill in
+making the bags. These should be cut so that they will finish about four
+inches square and one end left open so that they may be filled about
+three-fourths full of beans, peas or small pebbles. The end is then
+sewed up. Burlap, ticking or any odd pieces of cloth may be used for the
+bags.
+
+The board itself will, no doubt, have to be glued up from two or more
+boards in order to have the finished size 20" wide by 24" long. (Plate
+33.) Half inch bass or whitewood is suitable.
+
+A piece of paper should be cut 20" × 24" and folded so that it is 12" ×
+20". Trace the outline on this paper, cut and unfold and lay on the
+board and trace around this. Cut to the line, using a turning saw and
+chisel and perhaps a wood file on the curves.
+
+[Illustration: Boys as well as Girls enjoy the Bean Bag Game.]
+
+The openings are located, as shown by the drawing. The centers are first
+obtained, and then the widths and lengths are measured from these center
+lines. Holes are next bored, as shown by the small sketch, with a 3/4"
+bit, and either a turning or a keyhole saw is used to cut out the
+pieces. If a turning saw is used, the blade must first be unfastened at
+one end, inserted in the hole and re tightened on the opposite side.
+Finish carefully to the line with chisel and file.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 33._
+
+_BEAN BAG GAME_]
+
+A small block 1/2" × 1-1/2" × 2-1/8" is attached to the back of the
+board with 3/4" No. 6 flat-head screws. This is to hold the hinge.
+
+The long brace is made 1/2" × 2-1/8" × 18-1/2" and is held to the small
+block by the hinge spoken of previously. A screw-eye is placed about 2"
+from the lower end of this brace and a wire or stout cord runs from this
+to similar screw-eyes, placed on the back of the main board about 2"
+from the bottom edge and 3" from the side edges. The cord or wire should
+be of sufficient length to cause the board to tip at about 60 degrees.
+
+After the board has been carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first and
+then finished with No. 0, the whole board should receive a coat of white
+shellac. After allowing this to dry over night, it should be rubbed down
+lightly with fine sandpaper and the numbers 2, 3 and 5 lettered on with
+black waterproof India ink. Apply another coat of shellac, or two more
+if necessary.
+
+Paint may be used instead of shellac as a finish, in which case the
+numbers should be put on with paint of a contrasting color to show up
+well.
+
+The little sketch in the drawing shows the back braces made the same as
+those on the Dart Game Board. While this is a little more difficult than
+the simple screw-eye and wire arrangement, it is much more satisfactory.
+
+
+
+
+DART BOARD GAME.
+
+
+This game has proven very popular, not only with the young folks, but
+with the grown-ups as well. Any game where skill and accuracy may be
+developed has a strong appeal to both boys and girls as well.
+
+The board illustrated in Plate 34, should be made of soft wood--bass,
+pine or white wood is suitable--and cut to 15" wide by 21-1/2" long,
+from 7/8" material. The top edge is chamfered 1/4".
+
+The surface should be thoroughly planed and sanded and given a coat of
+white shellac. While this is drying, the rear supporting braces may be
+gotten out. The main support is 7/8" × 2-1/8" × 19". A hole is bored
+with a No. 10 bit, 1-9/16" from the end, and a piece is sawed out 5/8"
+wide from the opposite end to this hole. See the drawing for detail. A
+piece of 1/4" dowel is glued in the end to reinforce the piece, as
+shown.
+
+The smaller piece Y is cut 7/8" × 3/8" × 17" and is held to piece X by a
+quarter-inch dowel, as shown. A brass cup hook is screwed into the end
+which is connected with a brass screw-eye placed in the back of the
+board, 2-1/4" from the bottom edge.
+
+[Illustration: The Dart Board in Use.]
+
+The small block X is 7/8" × 1-1/2" × 2-1/8" and is attached, as
+indicated, with glue and two 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws.
+
+The long brace X is attached to this by a 2" butt hinge and 1" flat-head
+screws.
+
+This folding arrangement has proven very satisfactory. The board packs
+nicely and stands rigidly when in position for playing. However, a
+simpler bracing may be used. The long brace X may be a solid piece 7/8"
+× 2-1/8" × 19", with a screw-eye on the underside from which a wire can
+run to a similar screw-eye on the back of the board. The wire can be
+adjusted so that the board will slope at the proper angle.
+
+After being sanded, the surface of the board should be given a coat of
+shellac and after drying should be rubbed down with No. 1/2 sandpaper.
+
+The circles should now be struck with a compass and waterproof ink, the
+diameters given, using a fairly heavy line. After the ink is dry give
+another coat of shellac. When this is dry the board is ready to have the
+colors applied to the circles.
+
+First paint circle A black and circle C red, painting just to the circle
+edge. Allow this to dry thoroughly, and then paint circle B yellow and
+circle D green. When these are dry, it may be necessary to strike all
+the circles again with ink.
+
+Where shown, letter in the numbers to score the game. It will be noticed
+that the small outside circles are minus numbers.
+
+Give the entire board and braces a finishing coat of shellac.
+
+
+Darts.
+
+The darts may be whittled out by hand, but the most satisfactory ones
+are turned out on the lathe to the dimensions shown. A 1-1/2" brad
+should be driven half its length into the rounded end, the head cut off
+with cutting pliers, and the end pointed with a fine file.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 34._
+
+_DART GAME BOARD_]
+
+At the opposite end two holes should be drilled of a size large enough
+to receive the ends of wing or tail feathers of some accommodating fowl.
+These should be dipped in glue and pressed into place.
+
+About six of these darts should be made and the wooden parts painted in
+bright colors. Birch or maple are good woods to use.
+
+The board should be placed on the floor, about ten feet from a given
+station point, and each contestant should be allowed to throw the six
+darts. The score should then be counted. Darts landing on a line should
+be credited to the lower number. One dart landing on and sticking to
+another, doubles the score of the first dart. Darts not sticking in the
+board are not allowed to be re-thrown. Darts knocked out by other darts
+lose their score.
+
+One thousand points should constitute a game.
+
+The points of the darts may be sharpened from time to time with a fine
+file.
+
+
+
+
+WIND MILL.
+
+
+This is an interesting toy to place on the top of the shed or garage
+where the wind will have a chance to revolve the brightly colored wheel
+at a good rate. It also serves as a weather vane.
+
+[Illustration: Three Kinds of Wind Mills and the Sand or Water Mill.]
+
+The main part of the mill (Plate 35) is made up of four pieces of half
+inch stock, two being 3-1/2" × 4-3/4" and two 2-1/2" × 4-3/4". The two
+larger sides taper to 2-1/2" wide at the top and the two smaller pieces
+to 1/2". The top piece forming the roof is made from a piece of wood
+1-3/4" thick. If wood of this thickness is not available, several
+thinner pieces must be glued together. It is cut 3-1/2" × 3-1/2" and a
+line is drawn around the edge 3/8" from the lower sides. From this line
+the roof tapers to a point directly over the middle of the piece, as
+shown.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 35._
+
+_WIND MILL_]
+
+The long support, on which the mill rests, is made 1/2" × 1-1/4" ×
+10-1/4". Two holes are bored and countersunk for the screws which hold
+it to the mill base. A similar hole is bored from the opposite end for
+the screw which holds in place the round piece A.
+
+The circular piece marked A on the side view, is made 3/8" × 2-1/2". A
+hole is bored 1/2" deep with a quarter inch bit on the edge. The piece C
+is a quarter inch dowel, 7-3/4" long. A hole is bored with a quarter
+inch bit in the roof, at a slant, as is shown in the side view. This
+hole is 3/8" deep.
+
+The dowel piece C fits in these holes when assembled, being held with
+glue.
+
+The smaller base piece, which is attached to the bottom of the mill with
+glue and 1" brads, is made 1/2" × 4" × 5". The small piece, on which the
+vanes of the mill turn, is made from a piece of half inch dowel, cut
+1-1/2" long. A hole is bored in the roof piece 1/2" deep to receive
+this. A smaller hole is drilled in the outer end of this dowel to
+receive a 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screw on which the vanes revolve.
+
+A piece is now cut 3/4" × 7/8" × 7" to serve as the supporting piece on
+which the whole mill turns. On one end a notch is cut, as shown in the
+drawing, 3/8" deep and 1-1/2" long. Two screw holes are bored in this
+notch to allow the piece to be attached to the shed or roof. On the
+opposite end a hole is bored in the center, 3/4" deep and with a drill
+that will insure a 16-penny nail fitting very tightly. One of these
+nails should be driven in and the headed end cut off so as to allow a
+projection of 1" beyond the end of the wood. The end of this nail should
+be filed smooth and round.
+
+A hole is bored to receive this in the base pieces, as shown in the
+drawing, extending through both pieces and large enough for the nail to
+turn freely within. A washer should be placed over this to insure the
+mill turning easily.
+
+The two pieces for the vane of the mill are made 3/4" × 1" × 5-1/2".
+Each vane is chiseled at an angle, sloping in one direction at one end
+and in the opposite direction at the other, allowing at least 1/8" for
+the thickness. Considerable pains should be used in shaping these vanes
+to insure even balance. File and sand these smooth.
+
+A middle lap joint is made exactly in the center of each vane, cutting
+half through on each piece and making a smooth, flush fit. Hold the
+vanes together with glue and 1/2" brads at this point and carefully bore
+a hole at the center large enough to allow a 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head
+screw to turn easily.
+
+A small washer is placed under the head of the screw and one between the
+rear of the vanes and the end of the supporting dowel. Turn the screw up
+tight enough to allow the vanes to clear nicely.
+
+All pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first and
+finished with No. 0. Paint all pieces before assembling.
+
+A suggested color scheme is shown in the drawing.
+
+
+
+
+WIND MILL.
+
+(Type B.)
+
+
+This is another interesting action toy and makes a very pleasing
+addition to the top of a garage or barn. (Plate 36.) Children also enjoy
+toys of this sort at the beaches where they can build up little villages
+in the sand.
+
+The four long uprights are made 1/2" × 1/2" × 19". The top piece, which
+is eight sided, is first made 1/2" × 3-1/4" × 3-1/4". Then 3/4" is
+measured in from each corner and these points are connected and the
+lines cut carefully with a saw. A hole is bored in the center with a bit
+a little smaller than a 1-3/4" No. 8 screw.
+
+The piece to which the long uprights are attached is next made, 1/2" ×
+2-1/4" × 2-1/4". Measure in from each corner, on the upper surface,
+5/8", and from each corner on the lower edge measure in 1/2". Draw
+these sloping lines from top to bottom points and saw these corner
+pieces out very carefully. A hole is bored in the center of this piece
+similar to the hole bored in the previous piece.
+
+Attach the long uprights to this piece with glue and 1-1/4" brads,
+trimming the top ends of the uprights with a chisel and file until they
+are flush with the surface of the top piece.
+
+Carefully spread the uprights until they are 9-1/2" apart from outside
+to outside, as shown. Mark off points on the inside edges 4" up from the
+bottom ends and 7-1/4" above the first marks. These points are to locate
+the places where the cross pieces go.
+
+Cut the eight cross braces 1/2" × 1/2" and sufficiently long to fit
+nicely at these points between the uprights. It will be noticed that
+they will have to be cut at a slight angle. Attach these braces with
+glue and 1-1/4" brads, seeing that they are all even and parallel with
+the floor when setting upright.
+
+The angle braces are made 1/2" × 1/2" × 11" and cross each other with a
+halved joint, as shown. The ends are cut at an angle to conform to the
+slope of the uprights and are attached to them by 1" brads and glue.
+
+Piece E is now made, 1-1/4" × 1-1/4" × 2", and is tapered to 3/4" square
+at the upper end. This is done by measuring in 1/4" from each upper
+corner and drawing to the lower corners and cutting to the line. A
+small hole is bored in the center of the upper end to start the screw
+which holds piece B in place.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 36._
+
+_WIND MILL_ (_type B_)]
+
+Piece B is made 3/4" × 3/4" × 5-1/2" and has a slot cut in it, 1/4" wide
+and 2-3/8" long, as shown. The inside end of the slot is cut at a slight
+angle to receive the slope of tailpiece C. A hole is bored 3-1/4" from
+the slot end of this piece, of a size to turn freely on a 1-1/2" No. 8
+round-head screw.
+
+Tail C is made 1/4" × 4" × 6" and then 1/2" is measured up from the
+lower right end corner and 1/2" measured in from this point toward the
+left and a dot is placed. Draw lines from this dot to the
+lower-left-hand corner and to the upper-right-hand corner. Round all of
+these corners, using a 1/2" radius and carefully finish to the lines all
+around.
+
+The vanes A must be very carefully made to insure a close fit and proper
+balance. Two pieces are cut 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 7". The method of forming
+the vanes will be more easily understood by referring to the detail,
+where every measurement is plainly given. The two vanes are joined with
+a middle lap joint, which requires considerable skill in forming. Each
+piece is cut half way through at its middle point, seeing that the
+groove is no wider than the width of the piece that goes within it.
+
+The two vanes are joined with glue and four 3/4" brads.
+
+A hole is bored in the center, of a size that will turn easily on a
+1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screw.
+
+Sand all pieces well with No. 1/2 sandpaper.
+
+Paint the various pieces as suggested in the color scheme and attach the
+tail C to piece B with glue and 1/2" brads.
+
+The vanes A are attached to piece B with a 1-1/2" round-head screw, with
+washers under the screw head and between the vanes and piece B. Piece B
+is attached to block E with a 1-1/2" round-head screw, with washers
+under the screw head and between B and E.
+
+Have all movable parts so that they will move freely.
+
+A finish nail may be placed in the lower part of each leg to secure the
+mill to the desired location.
+
+
+
+
+SAND OR WATER MILL.
+
+
+This is an interesting beach toy as either fine sand or water may be
+used to operate it. (Plate 37.) It is very simple to construct and is
+made as follows: The base is constructed of 1/2" pine, 7-1/2" wide and
+7-1/2" long; and the four blocks which are glued and bradded to the
+corners, are 1/2" × 1" × 1". The two uprights are 3/4" × 7/8" × 8-1/4",
+and the two cross supports at the tops measure 3/4" × 7/8" × 2-1/2".
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 37._
+
+_SAND OR WATER MILL_]
+
+Two holes are bored in the base for the screws that hold the uprights in
+place. These holes are 2-3/4" from the end and 2-1/8" from the sides.
+
+Holes are bored in the little top braces 1/2" from the two ends and one
+just in the middle, or 1-1/4" from the ends. These are for the screws
+that hold the braces to the uprights and to the top piece. All holes are
+bored with a drill suitable to take 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws, and
+all are countersunk on the side where the screw enters.
+
+The top piece is made 1/2" × 5-1/4" × 5-1/2" with the two front corners
+slightly rounded, as shown.
+
+A hole is bored of a size to receive the funnel used, 1-1/2" from the
+front edge and 2-5/8" from the sides.
+
+A hole is drilled in each upright piece, 3-1/2" from the lower end, of a
+size that will insure a driving fit to the wire used, in this case being
+a piece of No. 12 copper-dipped, 4-3/4" long.
+
+A piece of 3/4" dowel is cut off 7/8" long and a similar hole is bored
+about two-thirds of the way through, as shown.
+
+Four holes are bored, as indicated on the drawing, for the quills, which
+are later glued in place. Feathers from the poultry yard will furnish
+these.
+
+Sand all pieces with No. 1 sandpaper and first assemble the top, the
+two uprights and the two cross supports. Paint these two coats of red
+paint.
+
+Attach the cross blocks to the base with glue and 3/4" brads and paint
+two coats of yellow. Paint the tunnel two coats of bright green.
+
+While these are drying construct the paddle wheel. The piece through
+which the wire axle runs is 3/4" × 3/4" × 2-1/4". The four blades are
+1/4" × 2-1/4" × 2-3/4".
+
+After these are sanded and a hole is bored through the center piece,
+nail the blades to the center piece, in the position shown in the side
+view. Use 3/4" brads and glue for fastening the blades. Paint two coats
+of yellow.
+
+When the parts so far assembled are thoroughly dry, finish the assembly,
+using 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws and glue.
+
+The toy is now ready to operate.
+
+
+
+
+DOLL'S CRADLE.
+
+
+A cradle built according to Plate 38 is suitable for a doll sixteen or
+seventeen inches in length.
+
+The two sides should be first made 1/2" × 6-1/2" × 20". These are later
+beveled slightly on their lower edge to conform to the slope of the head
+and foot board.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 38._
+
+_DOLL'S CRADLE_]
+
+Measure from one end along the top edge 7-1/4" and from the other end
+11-1/4". From this last end the width of the side is cut down to 4-1/2",
+as far as the 11-1/4" measurement previously made. Connect the point
+which is 7-1/4" from the left end with the point which is 11-1/4" from
+the right end. This gives a slope of approximately 30 degrees, as is
+shown in the side view. Slightly round the corners, as indicated.
+
+The head board is next made 1/2" × 7" × 8-3/4".
+
+Measure in, on one of the long edges, an inch from either corner, and
+from these points draw straight lines to the upper corners. Cut
+carefully to this line. This makes the lower edge 6-3/4" long. The upper
+corners are rounded, as shown.
+
+The foot board is made in a similar manner, first cutting it 1/2" × 5" ×
+8". Place the head and foot board together to see if they exactly
+correspond. If not, plane or saw them while together so they are exactly
+alike, except in height.
+
+The four pieces so far completed may now be assembled, using glue and 1"
+brads.
+
+See that this frame sets flat when placed on a level surface.
+
+The base is next made 1/2" × 8-3/4" × 20". The two rockers are cut 3/4"
+× 2-3/4" × 13-1/2".
+
+It is a good plan to cut a piece of paper the above size, fold across
+the short way and sketch on the folded surface one-half the rocker
+shape. When this has been done in a satisfactory manner it may be
+unfolded, cut out and drawn on wood. The rocker ends have a slight
+shoulder of 1/8", as shown. In sloping the rockers, get them alike and
+make the curve such as will cause them to rock with a very slight
+pressure.
+
+[Illustration: Two Types of Doll Cradles.]
+
+Holes are bored with a small drill in the base, 2-1/2" from the ends and
+1-1/2" from the sides. A hole is also bored half way between the two, as
+shown, and all are countersunk on the upper side.
+
+Attach the rockers with glue and 1" No. 6 flat-head screws.
+
+See that they project equally on the sides and are square with the
+edges.
+
+Now nail the rocker base to the upper frame previously made, using 1"
+brads and glue. Have the base project equally from the upper frame on
+each side and come flush with the ends.
+
+All pieces should have been carefully sanded, of course, before
+assembling.
+
+The next, and last step is the final finish. If paint is to be the
+finish, select the desired color and apply a priming and a finish coat.
+Follow directions in the front of the book for painting.
+
+
+
+
+COLONIAL DOLL CRADLE.
+
+
+The type of cradle, shown in Plate 39, is similar in many ways to the
+one on the last plate. It is, however, more artistic and somewhat more
+difficult to make.
+
+Follow directions on the last plate for making rockers, base and
+footboard.
+
+The headboard is cut 1/2" × 8-3/4" × 10-7/8".
+
+Place a center line, longways of the piece, as shown in the end view. At
+the top measure 1-1/4" each side of the center line and make a dot. At
+the base measure 3-3/8" each side of the center line and place a dot.
+
+Measure 1-3/4" from the top edge, on each side. Connect these points, as
+shown in the end view. Cut carefully to the lines. Test the head and
+footboard to see if they compare.
+
+Make the two sides of the cradle next 1/2" × 9-1/4" × 20".
+
+Seven inches from one end and 6-1/4" from the lower edge strike a circle
+1-3/8" in radius. From the lower edge of this circle draw a line
+parallel to the base. This will make the narrow part of the sides 4-1/2"
+wide.
+
+From the point directly over the center of the circle, square a line to
+the top edge of the side. The outline of the side is now ready to be cut
+out. If an expansive bit is obtainable, bore the hole from the center of
+the circle with the bit set at 1-3/8" radius. If this bit is not
+obtainable, the hole must be cut out with a key-hole or a turning saw
+after first cutting to the circle, along the other lines previously
+drawn.
+
+The short top edge of the sides should now be beveled to conform to the
+slope of the head board.
+
+Next make the two top pieces which form the sloping part of the roof.
+These are 1/2" × 5-1/4" × 7-3/4". These must be planed at their top edge
+to quite a sharp bevel until they are even with the top of the head
+board.
+
+The top piece is the final piece cut, and this is 1/2" × 4-3/4" ×
+7-3/4".
+
+The pieces should now be carefully sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper and the
+sides and ends assembled with glue and 1" brads.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 39._
+
+_COLONIAL DOLL CRADLE_]
+
+The roof pieces are next placed. Be sure that the top piece sits flat
+and overhangs equally on both sides.
+
+Holes are bored in the bottom piece for screws, 2-7/8" from the ends and
+1-1/2" from the sides. A third hole is bored at each end half way
+between the other two, as shown, and all are countersunk.
+
+Attach the rockers with glue and 1" flat-head screws, being careful that
+they project equally on both sides and are at right angles with the
+edges of the base.
+
+The final finish is optional, but if the cradle is to be painted or
+enameled it should first receive a priming coat of flat white. See
+directions for painting in the first part of the book.
+
+
+
+
+DOLL'S BED.
+
+
+The bed illustrated in Plate 40, is suitable for the ordinary size doll,
+16" to 18" in length.
+
+The four legs should first be cut, the two long ones being 7/8" × 7/8" ×
+12" and the two short ones 7/8" × 7/8" × 9-1/4".
+
+These should be planed up square and smooth and the top edges chamfered
+1/16", as shown.
+
+The two side rails are next made 3/8" × 2-1/2" × 20-1/2".
+
+The four cross rails, two on the head board and two on the foot board,
+are made 1/2" × 7/8" × 8-3/4".
+
+Seven slats are next made 3/8" × 1-1/4" × 8".
+
+Two long supporting slats, on which the seven slats previously made
+rest, are now made 3/8" × 1" × 19-1/4".
+
+Three upright slats are now made for the head board, two being 3/8" ×
+1-3/4" × 8", and one 3/8" × 3" × 8". Three similar slats are made for
+the foot board, two 3/8" × 1-3/4" × 5-1/4" and one 3/8" × 3" × 5-1/4".
+
+Seven holes should be carefully bored where the cross rails and legs are
+joined. Use a small drill about 1/8" in diameter.
+
+These holes are 2-1/2" up from the bottom end of the legs and 1" down
+from the top ends. In assembling these parts, use glue, brads and 1-1/2"
+No. 8 round-head screws, as shown on the drawing. Next place the slats,
+as indicated, using glue and 1-1/4" brads. Take pains to space these
+properly and center them on the cross piece. All brad holes, wherever
+placed, should be set with a nail set and the hole filled with hard
+beeswax.
+
+In nailing in the brads, rest the bottom support on the corner of the
+bench, so as not to strain the cross piece or legs in pounding with the
+hammer.
+
+Next attach the long side rails, having their ends come flush with the
+outer side of the leg. Use glue and 1" brads. See that the rails are
+attached square with the long edges of legs. The two shorter supporting
+rails (3/8" × 1" × 19-1/4"), are next nailed to the lower cross pieces
+at the head and foot of the bed, and close up against the long side
+rails. A few brads, 1" long, should be driven through from the side
+rails into these to help secure them in place.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 40._
+
+_DOLL'S BED_]
+
+The seven cross slats are carefully spaced, glued, and nailed in place
+with 1/2" brads. While nailing, place a block of wood beneath the ends
+for a bearing.
+
+All pieces should have been sanded previous to assembling, and the bed
+may now be either stained or painted. If painted, a priming coat should
+be applied first. After this has dried it should be carefully sanded
+with No. 0 sandpaper and the finish coat applied.
+
+Considerable care should be taken in the painting to insure a good,
+clean-cut job. Refer back to the first of the book for necessary
+instructions for painting.
+
+There is an opportunity here for the older sister to help in preparing
+the bedding.
+
+
+
+
+TWO TYPES OF STILTS.
+
+
+(Type A Stilt.)
+
+Most every boy knows there is a certain fascination in walking on
+stilts, but they may prove a dangerous pastime if not strongly made.
+
+In this style of stilt (Type A, Plate 41) the uprights are held beneath
+the arm pits.
+
+The upright pieces should be made 7/8" × 1-3/8" × 5', or as long as the
+boy desires. Hard pine or ash make strong, durable stilts. The edges of
+the upright should be slightly rounded so that they will fit the hand
+nicely.
+
+[Illustration: Two Kinds of Stilts.]
+
+Holes are bored with a 1/4" bit, 17" from the lower end and 2-1/2"
+apart, as shown. The upper hole is countersunk to receive a 2-1/2" No.
+12 flat-head screw.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 41._
+
+_STILTS_]
+
+The foot rests are made 1" × 3-1/2" × 5" and shaped, as indicated on the
+drawing.
+
+They are secured to the uprights with screws and 1/4" × 3" round-head
+stove bolts. Several holes at various heights could be bored to allow of
+adjusting the foot rest to suit the user of the stilt.
+
+The uprights can be painted red and the foot rests green, or the whole
+can be left plain, according to the desires of the maker. A touch of
+paint, however, not only adds to the appearance of any article, but also
+preserves it and lengthens its life.
+
+
+(Type B Stilt.)
+
+Type B stilt (Plate 41) is made shorter than Type A and is to be
+strapped to the leg just above the knee.
+
+The uprights are 1" × 1-3/8" × 36", or longer if desired.
+
+Round the edges of the uprights and bore holes at the same places and of
+the same size as in Type A.
+
+A strap is screwed on, as is shown in the drawing, to support the feet,
+and another strap, long enough to go around the leg beneath the knee, is
+attached at the upper end, 2" from the top.
+
+Sandpaper thoroughly and finish to suit.
+
+A pole about seven feet long should be carried to balance and steady
+oneself.
+
+[Illustration: Two Kinds of Carts and a Dump Wagon (in front).]
+
+
+
+
+CHILD'S CART.
+
+
+Carts always appeal to youngsters and the one given here (Plate 42) is
+of simple construction.
+
+Make the side pieces first 1/2" × 6" × 10". On one long edge measure in
+2-1/2" and from this point draw a line to the upper corner. Cut
+carefully to this line. The front piece is made 1/2" × 6" × 6" and the
+end piece 1/2" × 6" × 6-3/4". This end piece is beveled to conform to
+the top and bottom edges of the cart, as shown in the side view.
+
+The bottom piece is made 1/2" × 6" × 6-1/2".
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 42._
+
+_CHILD'S CART_]
+
+The piece to which the wheels are attached, is made 7/8" × 1" × 7-1/8".
+This piece has two holes bored and countersunk in it for screws, 1-1/4"
+from the ends and half way between the sides.
+
+Two small blocks are made 1/2" × 1" × 2-1/2" and tapered 3/4", as shown.
+These blocks have holes bored and countersunk for screws. Bore the holes
+in such a manner that they will not come directly opposite each other,
+otherwise the screws will be likely to hit each other.
+
+Holes are bored in the front piece of the cart and countersunk on the
+inner side. These pieces are 3" from either side, the first one being
+2-1/4" from the upper edge and the second an inch below the first.
+
+The handle measures 7/8" × 1" × 30". A hole is bored 5/8" from the front
+end with a half-inch bit and the extreme end of the handle is slightly
+chamfered for a finish. The opposite end of the handle is cut at an
+angle of 30°, as shown.
+
+A piece of dowel, 1/2" in diameter and 3" long, is cut and inserted in
+the hole in the handle and secured by driving an inch brad in from the
+under side of the handle.
+
+The wheels are 7/8" × 5" and may be cut out with a turning saw and
+trimmed to the line with a chisel, or, if a lathe is available, they can
+quickly be cut to size. If they are to be sawed out, a circle should be
+struck with a divider or compass set at a 2-1/2" radius and then
+carefully cut to the line.
+
+The axle is attached to the bottom piece with glue and 1-1/4" No. 8
+flat-head screws.
+
+Bore a hole in the end of the axle, exactly in the center, using a drill
+slightly smaller than the screw that is to hold the wheels in position.
+Bore a hole in each wheel, at the center point, a little larger than the
+screw that is to be used. Attach the wheels with 1-1/2" No. 10
+round-head blue screws, using a small washer under the screw head and
+also between the wheel and the cart body. Tighten the screw just enough
+to allow a little play for the wheels to turn easily.
+
+Sand all pieces thoroughly before assembling, using No. 1 sandpaper
+first and finishing with No. 0. Assemble the body part of the cart with
+glue and 1" brads.
+
+A suggested color scheme is given in the drawing.
+
+
+
+
+CHILD'S DUMP WAGON.
+
+
+This toy at once appeals to the children as it only requires a simple
+turn of the crank to quickly dump the load of sand.
+
+Each part of this toy is completely detailed in Plate 44, while Plate 43
+gives the assembly drawing.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 43._
+
+_CHILD'S DUMP WAGON_]
+
+The two sides are first made 1/2" × 5-1/2" × 12", and the two ends 1/2"
+× 6" × 7-1/2". The sides are beveled about 1/8" on the lower edge so
+that they will conform to the angle of the end piece. The ends taper
+from 7-1/2" long at the top to 5-5/8" at the bottom. This angle is
+obtained by measuring in 15/16" from either side and drawing to the
+opposite upper corner. Saw and finish to this line and slightly round
+the upper corners, as shown. Bore a hole with a 1/2" bit at the point
+indicated.
+
+The bottom piece is made 1/2" × 6-5/8" × 12".
+
+Sand these five pieces and assemble, using 1-1/4" brads and glue. Plane
+the side edges of the bottom board to the same angle as the slope of the
+sides.
+
+The two end uprights are now made 1/2" × 6-3/4" × 8". Measure up 2-1/4"
+on the short edges and place a dot. Connect these points with a sloping
+line and saw and finish to the outline shown. Bore holes with a 1/2" bit
+at the place indicated. Locate and bore a screw hole 1/2" up from the
+center of the lower edge to attach brace block.
+
+Make two small supporting blocks 7/8" × 1-3/4" × 1-3/4". Bore a 1/2"
+hole carefully in the center and drill four smaller holes to receive
+1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws, 3/8" from each other, as shown.
+Countersink these four holes.
+
+Glue and screw these blocks to the end of the wagon box, 1-1/4" from the
+top edge, as shown.
+
+Make two brace blocks by first cutting out a square 7/8" × 1" × 1" and
+cutting this in two diagonally from corner to corner. Glue and screw
+these blocks to the end uprights, using 1" No. 6 flat-head screws.
+
+The underbody should next be made 1/2" × 8" × 18-1/2".
+
+Measure in 3-1/4" from each corner on the long edge, and with the
+dividers set at 2-1/4", strike a quarter circle and connect these arcs
+with straight lines, making the width in the middle 4-1/2". Saw this out
+with a coping saw and finish smoothly to the line.
+
+Locate and drill the twelve screw holes shown, with a drill the size of
+a No. 6 screw.
+
+Countersink all holes, except the four holes which hold the supports for
+the cart handle. These four are not countersunk as 1" No. 6 round-head
+screws are used at these points.
+
+Attach the end uprights to the underbody with glue and 1" No. 6
+flat-head screws, eight in all.
+
+Next make the two axles 7/8" × 1" × 8-1/4" and bore and countersink the
+three holes, on the narrow edge, at the points indicated. Glue and screw
+these in place, 1-1/4" from the front and rear ends, using 1-1/4" No. 8
+flat-head screws. These axles project 1/8" beyond the sides of the
+underbody, on all sides, so as to allow the wheels to turn without
+interference.
+
+The wheels may be made on a lathe or with a turning saw, 7/8" thick and
+all exactly 4" in diameter. Bore a hole in their center with a drill a
+little larger than the wire of a 2" No. 10 round-head screw. When
+assembling, use a washer on each side of the wheel.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 44._
+
+_DETAILS OF DUMP WAGON_]
+
+A hole should be started about 3/8" deep in the center of the ends of
+the axle to insure the screws going in properly.
+
+The cart handle is made 1/2" × 1" × 30", with one end rounded and the
+opposite end chamfered 1/8". On the latter end measure in 5/8" on the
+wide side and bore a hole carefully with a 1/2" bit. Cut a piece from a
+1/2" dowel, 3-1/4" long, and insert it in this hole, keeping it in place
+with glue and one 7/8" brad.
+
+Bore a hole 1/2" from the rounded end with a 3/16" bit.
+
+The two pieces which hold the handle are now made 3/4" × 7/8" × 2-3/4".
+A 3/16" hole is bored in the 7/8" edge of these pieces, 1/2" from the
+end. These holes, and the hole in the handle, are to receive a
+round-head stove bolt, which is 3/16" × 2-1/4".
+
+Glue and screw these two pieces in place in the center of the front end
+of the underbody, leaving about 1/16" space between the handle and the
+edges of the blocks for freedom of movement.
+
+The dumping handle is made of pieces of dowel, the main piece being 1"
+in diameter by 4-1/2" long. The other pieces are cut from a half-inch
+dowel, 3" and 3-1/2" long, respectively.
+
+On the main dowel bore holes with a 1/2" bit, 3/4" from the ends, to
+receive the shorter dowels. Glue and insert the 3-1/4" dowel and bore a
+small hole to receive a 7/8" No. 6 round-head screw. Place this screw
+and then insert the dowel through the front upright into the front
+supporting block and flush with the inner surface of the front box end.
+Hold in place in the block with glue and a 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head
+screw.
+
+Glue and screw the 3" dowel in place for the grip.
+
+A piece of 1/2" dowel, 2" long, is similarly placed through the rear
+upright, thence into the rear supporting block and box end.
+
+This is also held with glue and a 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screw through
+the block.
+
+Sand and apply two coats of paint before assembling the wheels and
+handle.
+
+
+
+
+CHILD'S WHEELBARROW.
+
+(Type A.)
+
+
+The Child's Wheelbarrow, shown in Plate 45, is very serviceable and
+quite easy to make, and, if the directions are followed carefully, the
+result will be a toy that will outlast a majority of the toys ordinarily
+found on the store shelves.
+
+First, make the handles 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 30". Chamfer the handles, as
+shown, for four inches from one end.
+
+The two sides are made 1/2" × 5-1/2" × 15" and 1-1/2" is measured in on
+one long edge and a line drawn from this point to the lower corner. Saw
+and plane to this line and round the upper corner with a chisel and
+file.
+
+The end is 3/8" × 5-1/2" × 7-1/4". The bottom is first cut 1/2" × 11" ×
+14". On one end measure in 1-7/8" from one side and a like distance from
+the other side. Connect these points with the opposite extreme corners
+and finish to these lines. The bottom is now tapered to 7-1/4" wide at
+the front end.
+
+Assemble the sides, the bottom and the end with glue and 1-1/2" finish
+nails, setting the front piece back 1/4" from the end of the sides, as
+shown in the drawing. Set all nails below the surface and fill the holes
+with beeswax.
+
+Place the assembled part on the handles in such a manner that the front
+end of the box part of the wheelbarrow is 5" from the front end of the
+handles, and the handles at the front end are 2" apart inside, and at
+the grip end 13" apart outside.
+
+While in this position, which is the permanent assembling position, mark
+the position of the six screw holes, which are bored with a drill of a
+size to receive a 1" No. 6 flat-head screw. Countersink these holes.
+
+The two legs are made 7/8" × 1" × 8-3/4" and beveled 1/4" at the lower
+end. On the upper end a notch is cut out 3/8" deep by 1-1/4" long. Two
+holes are bored, as indicated, to attach the leg to the handle. This is
+done with glue and 1" No. 6 round-head screws.
+
+[Illustration: Wheelbarrows.]
+
+A 1/2" dowel rod runs between the legs to brace them, and a hole is
+bored 3/8" deep in each leg, 2-1/2" from the lower end. The dowel is 9"
+long and is held in place with glue, and a 3/4" brad is driven in the
+leg to hold it firmly in place.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 45._
+
+_CHILD'S WHEELBARROW_ (_TYPE A_)]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 46._
+
+_CHILD'S WHEELBARROW_ (_TYPE B_)]
+
+A hole is bored very carefully 1-1/4" from the front end of the handles
+to receive the wheel axle. It will be noticed, by referring to the top
+view of the drawing, that on account of the taper of the handles this
+hole must be bored slightly on a slant and about half way through. The
+bit should be of a size to allow a piece of sixteen-penny nail to turn
+freely, as the axle should be made of a nail of this size, cut 3" long.
+
+The wheel is best made of hard wood, such as maple, 7/8" thick and 6" in
+diameter.
+
+Bore the hole in the center with the same drill just used.
+
+Next cut two pieces from a 1/2" dowel, 3/8" long, and bore a similar
+hole exactly through their center. These two pieces of dowel are glued
+to the wheel and serve to make it run in the center. When assembling,
+place a small washer between the dowels and handle, as shown.
+
+All pieces should have been carefully sanded before assembling, and the
+wheel should be painted red and allowed to dry before being put in
+place. The remainder of the wheelbarrow should be painted bright green.
+Apply two coats, rubbing down the first coat when dry with No. 0
+sandpaper before applying the second.
+
+
+
+
+CHILD'S WHEELBARROW.
+
+(Type B.)
+
+
+This style wheelbarrow (Plates 46 and 47) is planned exceptionally
+strong and sturdy and will stand a large amount of hard usage. It is
+made larger and stronger than Type A, and is naturally a little more
+difficult to make, but well within the ability of an eighth grade boy.
+This type has removable sideboards.
+
+The plate of details gives exact information how to make each piece, so
+it will not be necessary to give the directions here.
+
+After all pieces are correctly made and all holes are bored at the
+places indicated, each part should be sanded very carefully and made
+ready for assembling.
+
+Care should be taken to get good tight joints on the front brace, the
+wheel supports and the tops of the legs.
+
+The metal braces can be made from strips of zinc 1" × 4", bent over the
+braces W, allowing a little freedom for removing the sideboards. Holes
+should be drilled in these braces, where shown, to receive 1/2" No. 6
+round-head screws.
+
+First attach the bottom boards to the handles with 1" No. 6 flat-head
+screws, placing the ends of the handles even with the front of the
+bottom board and flush with the side edges.
+
+Next fasten the front and rear brace in place with 1-1/2" No. 8
+flat-head screws, on the under side, and with 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head
+screws and washers from the outside of the handle to the brace ends.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 47._
+
+_DETAILS OF TYPE B WHEELBARROW_]
+
+Fasten one wheel brace in its proper place with 1" No. 6 flat-head
+screws from the upper side of the bottom board.
+
+Place the axle of the wheel in the hole and attach the other wheel in
+the same manner.
+
+Glue and screw the front uprights in place, as indicated, with 1" No. 6
+round-head screws, and place the top cross piece on these and hold in
+place with glue and 1" round-head blue screws.
+
+Place the sides in position, with the front ends flush with the outer
+edges of the front braces. Place the metal braces over the supporting
+pieces and screw in place, using 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws.
+
+Braces X, which run from the wheel supports to the front piece of the
+wheelbarrow, are screwed in place, as shown, using 1-1/4" No. 8
+round-head screws.
+
+It will be noticed that the hole for the dowel stick in the leg only
+extends in 3/8". Place one leg in position, 14-1/2" from the ends of the
+handles, using glue and 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws. Insert the
+dowel stick in this leg and also in the second leg and secure the second
+leg in place. The dowel should have glue placed on its ends, and, after
+the legs are in place, an inch brad should be driven into each leg,
+through the dowel, to hold it firmly in place.
+
+The color scheme given in the drawing is a pleasing one. The wheel is
+painted two coats of red before being placed in position.
+
+
+
+
+CLOWN RUNNING WHEEL.
+
+
+This has proven a very popular toy and is not hard to construct.
+
+The legs and body may be made of pulp or Beaver board, a material which
+is very good, as it saws easily and will not split. Wood, however, may
+be used, if preferred.
+
+The details of the body and legs are full size and these may be
+transferred to the wood by the tracing method described at the beginning
+of the book. These pieces, when done, may be painted, if desired, and
+allowed to dry while the rest of the parts are being made. Bore all
+necessary holes shown in the drawing.
+
+The wheels are best turned on a lathe to 4" in diameter and a hole bored
+in the center of each of a size that will allow a 1/4" dowel to fit
+tightly. If no lathe is available, the wheel can be cut out with a
+turning saw and finished with a chisel and file. The wheels are best
+made from 1/4" maple. Two pieces of 3/8" dowel are cut 1/4" long and
+attached 1/2" above the center of the wheel, as shown. This is done on
+both wheels, and the piece is attached with glue and 1/2" brads. It is a
+good plan to bore holes for these brads and thus prevent the possible
+splitting of the wood. The dowel that goes between the wheels is made
+1/4" × 3/4" and is glued securely in the holes in the wheels later.
+Another piece of 1/4" dowel is cut 4" long, and is fitted to support the
+body of the clown on the handle.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 48._
+
+_DETAILS FOR CLOWN RUNNING WHEEL_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 49._
+
+_DETAILS FOR CLOWN RUNNING WHEEL_]
+
+The handle is made 7/8" × 1-1/8" × 30", and the grip is rounded and
+shaped, as shown on Plate 48. In the opposite end of the handle a slot
+is cut 1/16" wide and 1-1/2" long. This is to receive the strip of zinc
+which runs between the wheels. This strip of zinc is made of 1/16"
+material, 1" wide and 4-1/2" long. Triangular pieces are cut from one
+end, 1/4" on a side, as shown on the detail sheet. This strip is held in
+the slot in the handle by first drilling through both the wood and the
+zinc, with a drill the size of a 3/4" brad, and afterwards gluing and
+bradding the zinc into position with 3/4" brads. A hole, 1/4" in
+diameter, is also drilled in the opposite end of the zinc, 5/8" from the
+end and 1/2" from the sides. This goes over the axle of the wheel.
+
+A hole is bored with a 1/4" bit, 2-3/8" from the end of the handle, as
+shown on Plate 48, and at an angle, as indicated.
+
+A similar hole is bored in the seat of the clown. The parts are now
+ready to sandpaper, paint, and after drying, assemble.
+
+[Illustration: Clown Running Wheel.]
+
+[Illustration: Cock Horse.]
+
+The color scheme is given on the drawing. After the paint has dried, the
+lines where the various colors join, should be accented with a pen,
+using India ink.
+
+The upper legs of the clown are attached to the body with 1-1/2" copper
+rivets and the lower legs are held to the upper by 1/2" rivets. When
+putting the rivets in place, hold the end which has the washer against
+some hard, metal body and strike with a hammer, taking care not to get
+the washer so tight that the legs will not move. A 3/4" No. 6 round-head
+screw holds the feet to the projecting dowel on the wheel. It is best to
+bore the hole for the screw in the piece of dowel a little smaller than
+the size of the screw so as to prevent splitting. Glue the supporting
+dowel in both the clown and the handle.
+
+
+
+
+COCK HORSE.
+
+
+The Cock Horse is a modern version of the old hobby horse, and affords
+the children, between the ages of four and six, unlimited pleasure.
+
+The head is made of a piece of 7/8" bass or pine, 5-1/2" wide and 9-1/2"
+long.
+
+The features may be enlarged from the size drawn in Plate 50, by the
+method given at the beginning of the book for enlarging; or, if one is
+apt at free-hand drawing, the outline may be copied offhand.
+
+Cut the features out right to the line with a coping saw and smooth the
+edges and surfaces with No. 1/2 sandpaper.
+
+The stick is made 7/8" × 1" × 32", and the front end is chamfered 1/8".
+
+Holes are bored for 1-1/2" No. 10 flat-head screws, the first 1-3/4"
+from the front end and the other two 1-1/2" apart.
+
+Two smaller pieces, which are made 5/8" × 7/8" × 7-1/2", are to hold the
+wheel in position. Holes are bored in these two pieces to take 1-1/4"
+No. 8 round-head screws, the first one being 7/8" from the end and the
+next two 3/4" apart.
+
+On this same end a piece is cut off at an angle, as shown.
+
+A hole is bored at the opposite end of these two pieces to receive a
+2-1/2" × 1/4" round-head stove bolt, on which the wheel turns.
+
+The wheel is made 7/8" thick and 6" in diameter, either on a lathe or
+with a coping saw. A hole is bored in the center a little larger than
+the 1/4" × 2-1/2" stove bolt, so that the wheel will turn easily upon
+it.
+
+Glue and screw the two side pieces to the long stick, using 1-1/4"
+round-head blue screws. Give these two coats of natural varnish.
+
+Paint the wheel two coats of bright red.
+
+Paint the head one coat of flat white, and after drying give one or two
+coats of white enamel. After this has dried thoroughly, paint the comb
+and wattles bright red. Paint the beak and outer circle of the eyes
+yellow, and the feathers about the neck black. Where the colors join,
+outline with a drafting pen and India ink.
+
+A hole is bored, in the head where shown, to receive a piece of 3/4"
+dowel, 6" long. This serves as a handle. Glue this handle in place,
+taking care that it projects equally on both sides.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 50._
+
+_COCK HORSE_]
+
+
+
+
+ROCKING ROOSTER.
+
+
+This very interesting action toy is especially suitable for children as
+young as two years of age. It is simple in construction and perfectly
+safe. (Plate 51.)
+
+The seat board is made 7/8" × 5" × 21". Measure 6" in from one end on
+both long edges, and at these points narrow the front end to 3-1/2" wide
+by sawing out a piece on both sides 1-1/4" wide.
+
+Round the corners where the taper comes, also the other four corners of
+the top. Similarly, round the upper edge of the top.
+
+The two rockers are made 7/8" × 4-1/2" × 18". Measure down 1/4" on the
+two ends, and from these points carefully sketch a free-hand curve with
+its highest point directly in the center of the lower edge. Be sure this
+curve balances equally and that the two rockers are exactly alike.
+
+The rooster's head is made 7/8" × 6" × 10-1/4" and the outline is
+sketched upon it similar to the one shown on the drawing.
+
+Cut out the features with a coping saw, taking pains to have the saw at
+right angles to the surface of the wood at all times.
+
+A hole is bored in the head, for the handle, about 3-3/4" from the top
+and 1-1/2" from the rear edge. A 3/4" bit is used.
+
+[Illustration: The Rocking Rooster is safe as well as interesting.]
+
+Be sure and bore this hole perfectly straight.
+
+The handle is made 6" long and 3/4" in diameter, shaping it as shown in
+the front view. If this cannot be turned on a lathe, the handle may be
+made from a 6" piece of 3/4" dowel, rounding the ends slightly with a
+file.
+
+Holes are now bored for the 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screws which hold the
+rockers and head to the top. The locations of these holes are clearly
+shown in the drawing. Countersink the holes on the side from which the
+screws enter.
+
+The little separating block, which goes between the rockers, is made
+7/8" × 1" × 2-1/2", and is held in place with glue.
+
+Sand all pieces thoroughly.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 51._
+
+_ROCKING ROOSTER_]
+
+Assemble all pieces carefully, seeing that the rooster's head is
+centered well and placed two inches from the front end.
+
+The rockers are attached 1-1/2" from the ends and so placed that they
+are just an inch apart.
+
+Paint the whole toy one coat of flat white and sand lightly with No. 0
+sandpaper when dry. Paint in the comb and wattles of the rooster bright
+red and the feathers on the neck, green.
+
+After these colors have dried, apply another coat of white, where
+indicated, this time using white enamel. Use a small brush for the
+details. The beak and the circle about the eye are painted yellow and
+the other circle about the eye is painted black.
+
+If the paint does not seem to have the proper sparkle when the last coat
+is dry, apply another coat of each color. Outline the edge of the comb
+and wattles with a drafting pen and India ink. Outline also, the beak
+and eyes. This causes a sharp contrast where the two colors meet and
+sets off the features.
+
+The top and rockers are treated with two coats of white enamel on top of
+the priming coat.
+
+
+
+
+KIDDIE KAR.
+
+
+It is hardly necessary to speak of the popularity of this toy. Its
+construction is well within the ability of the average eighth grade boy.
+
+The seat board (Plate 52) is made of 7/8" stock and is first cut 7-1/2"
+wide and 21-1/2" long. Half the outline of the curve at the front should
+be traced on a folded piece of paper, the proper size, and cut out and
+traced on the wood. This outline should now be carefully sawed and
+chiseled to the correct shape.
+
+[Illustration: Kiddie Kars.]
+
+The top edge of the seat should be rounded.
+
+The rear support should have half its outline traced on a folded piece
+of paper and cut out and traced on a piece of wood 7/8" × 5" × 6-1/2".
+Finish to the line.
+
+The brace is cut 7/8" × 5" × 9-1/2".
+
+Mark out the outline of the curves, as shown, and saw and chisel to the
+line. The wheels and steering gear should be turned on a lathe to the
+dimensions shown on the drawing.
+
+A hole is bored in the seat board, 1-3/4" from the front end and half
+way between the sides, with a 15/16" bit. This is to allow the steering
+post, which is turned to 7/8" diameter, freedom to turn.
+
+Holes are drilled through the under part of the rear brace, as shown, to
+secure the same to the top. Holes are likewise bored half way between
+the sides of this brace, to engage with the curved supporting piece.
+
+The curved supporting piece has two holes bored 1-1/4" from the small
+end, 1" apart. This is for the screws that go into the top.
+
+Holes, bored with a small bit, should be started in the lower part of
+the rear brace, to receive the large screws which hold the rear wheels
+in place. It is quite necessary to make these holes, using a bit a
+trifle smaller than the screw to be used, as it is very difficult to
+force a screw of this size into wood of this hardness. These holes must
+be bored exactly straight, otherwise the wheels will turn unevenly.
+
+Washers should be used between the screw heads and the wheels and
+between the wheels and any part they are likely to come in contact with.
+
+A hole is bored in the steering rod, directly below the top board, for a
+screw to be placed to hold the upper and lower part of the steering rod
+firm. Glue is also used when assembling the two parts of the steering
+apparatus. The handle is also held in place with a screw and glue, as
+shown. A hole is bored in the handle, of a size suitable to receive the
+steering rod.
+
+Washers should be placed in the steering gear, above and below the seat
+board, to prevent wear.
+
+In preparing the slot to receive the front wheel, a hole should first be
+bored with an inch bit so that the top edge of the slot comes 3-5/8"
+from the bottom of the steering gear.
+
+This slot should be very carefully sawed out and smoothed up so that the
+wheel, which is 7/8" thick, will turn accurately.
+
+The holes in all the wheels must center accurately and be larger than
+the screw or bolt which goes through them. The front wheel turns on a
+1/4" × 1-3/4" round-head stove bolt.
+
+The color scheme may be varied to suit individual tastes.
+
+The one suggested in the drawing has red wheels with the remaining parts
+of the kiddie kar finished natural with spar varnish.
+
+All parts should be thoroughly sanded before assembling. Two coats of
+paint should be applied to the wheels and two coats of varnish to the
+remainder.
+
+Sand in between coats with No. 0 sandpaper.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 52._
+
+_KIDDIE KAR_]
+
+
+
+
+KIDDIE KOASTER.
+
+
+This lively toy is somewhat different from the three-wheeled Kiddie Kar
+and is suited for children of eight or over.
+
+If desired, this toy may be made up with three wheels like a velocipede.
+
+If this type is made, a piece of dowel rod, of hard wood, is cut about
+six or eight inches long and an inch in diameter. This dowel should go
+through a hole in the rear brace, and the wheels should be attached to
+the ends with 2" No. 12 round-head screws and washers.
+
+The following directions are for the two-wheel Kiddie Koaster shown in
+Plate 53.
+
+The front supporting piece is first made of a piece of hard wood, 2" ×
+2-1/4" × 19". A distance of 7" is measured up from the lower end and
+7/8" is measured beyond this. From this point the remainder of the brace
+is thinned to one inch in thickness. The top end is rounded and the
+bottom end chamfered, as shown.
+
+A hole is carefully bored with an inch bit, 5-3/4" from the lower end.
+An allowance of 1/2" is made for the thickness of each fork and the
+remaining inch is removed with a saw up to the hole previously bored.
+
+A hole is bored for the handle, 1-1/4" from the top, with a 7/8" bit.
+Another hole is bored on each side, 6-1/4" from the lower end with a
+3/4" bit, 1/2" deep.
+
+[Illustration: The Kiddie Koaster.]
+
+These two holes are for the foot rests. Small holes are bored one inch
+from the lower end to receive a 1/4" × 2-1/2" round-head stove bolt. A
+1/4" bit should be used to bore these.
+
+The rear support is made 2" × 2-1/4" × 16-3/4". From a point 6-1/2" from
+the lower end this is thinned down to one inch thick, the same way as
+the front support. At the upper end measure down on one edge 7/8" and
+draw to the opposite corner.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 53._
+
+_KIDDIE KOASTER_]
+
+Cut off at this angle so that it will come on a line with the cross
+piece. A hole is bored with a 1/4" bit, one inch from the lower end to
+take a 1/4" x 2-1/2" round-head stove bolt.
+
+Chamfer 3/8" from the lower end.
+
+Bore a hole 4-3/4" from the lower end with an inch bit and remove the
+wood to form the rear fork, in the same manner as was done for the
+front.
+
+The cross piece between the front and rear support, on which the seat
+rests, is first made 7/8" x 5" x 13-1/8".
+
+Measure in two inches from the upper corner and draw a line to the lower
+corner. Saw squarely on this line to get the proper slant. Measure from
+this upper left-hand corner 9-1/2" and draw a line from here to the
+lower right-hand corner. Saw to this line. On this last end sawed,
+measure in 3/4" and make a tenon, as indicated in the side view. This
+tenon should be 1/2" thick. The other dimensions for the tenon are given
+on the drawing.
+
+On the rear support a mortise is now cut of a size to receive the tenon
+tightly, and to make the top edge of the cross piece and upper end of
+the rear support on a line.
+
+This tenon should be cut with a 1/2" bit, boring so as to make the
+mortise about 13/16" deep. Remove the extra wood with a small chisel
+until the tenon fits snugly within the mortise.
+
+Later, when assembling, this joint is glued and 3/4" brads are driven in
+from the side to pin it in place, as indicated.
+
+The seat is made 3/4" × 5" × 7". It is shaped, as shown in the sketch,
+cutting the outline with a turning saw and finishing to the line with a
+chisel and file. Two holes are bored and countersunk to receive 1-1/4"
+No. 8 flat-head screws which hold the seat in place.
+
+The seat is stuffed with tow, excelsior or other suitable material and
+covered with brown burlap or with imitation leather, as desired. A piece
+of braid, to match the material used, is tacked around the lower edge
+with upholstery tacks to match.
+
+The handles and foot rests are best turned out on a lathe, although they
+may be whittled out with a jack-knife. The dimensions for these are
+clearly shown.
+
+The front wheel is 9-1/2" in diameter, made from wood 3/4" thick. The
+rear wheel is 8" in diameter, the wood being 3/4" stock.
+
+These wheels should be made of hard wood or wood glued up three-ply.
+These are best turned on a lathe, although they may be cut with a
+turning saw and chiseled to the line and finished with a file.
+
+A special hinge may be obtained from most any toy manufacturing firm,
+to place between the front support and the cross-piece. In the author's
+classes, hinges of this special type were obtained in various sizes,
+without any trouble. The size indicated in the drawing is five inches
+long and costs fourteen cents.
+
+If these special hinges are not used, the ordinary butt hinges may be
+substituted, two being used.
+
+A groove of the proper length and depth, to fit these hinges, can be
+drilled and chiseled out in the front brace. A saw cut can be made in
+the cross piece, across the end, in which to insert the hinge. When
+assembled, screws should be placed so as to accurately engage with the
+screw holes in the hinges.
+
+Before assembling, all pieces should be thoroughly sanded and painted
+two coats.
+
+A suggested color scheme is given on the drawing.
+
+
+
+
+SKI SKOOTER.
+
+
+The Ski Skooter, shown on Plate 54, is best made of ash.
+
+The runner is first made 5/8" × 3-3/8" × 39" and thinned down, for ten
+inches from the front end, to 3/8" thick.
+
+The runner is steamed, bent and grooved by the method shown in Plate 55.
+
+The upright piece is made 7/8" × 3-1/8" × 16-1/8" and one of the bracing
+pieces 7/8" × 1-3/8" × 12" and the other 7/8" × 1-3/8" × 13". These are
+cut at an angle of 45 degrees at each end, as shown.
+
+[Illustration: The Ski Skooter is great sport on a moderate hill.]
+
+The seat is made 7/8" × 6" × 12", and the top edges are slightly
+rounded.
+
+Two grips, which also have their lower edges rounded, are made 3/4" ×
+7/8" × 5".
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 54._
+
+_SKI SKOOTER_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 55._
+
+_METHOD OF BENDING RUNNERS_]
+
+Two strengthening pieces are made 7/8" × 7/8" × 3-1/8" and their ends
+are cut at 45 degrees, as shown. These are attached to the upright
+directly under the seat.
+
+Bore all holes, where shown in the drawing, and countersink them.
+Assemble with glue and screws of a size shown on the drawing.
+
+The color scheme is given on the drawing, but may be changed to suit
+individual tastes. Two coats of paint are applied, sanding carefully
+between coats.
+
+The seat can be upholstered if desired.
+
+
+
+
+METHOD OF BENDING RUNNERS.
+
+
+Place the ends in a washboiler, about half full of boiling water, and
+allow them to remain about five hours.
+
+Place the tip, or front end of the runners, under the back edge of the
+top step of a step ladder. Slowly bend the runner downward until it lays
+flat on the front edges of the other steps.
+
+Secure this in place either with clamps or by pieces of rope and wood.
+Plate 55 shows two methods of bending the runners. Regular skis may be
+bent in the same manner.
+
+Leave the runners in the clamps overnight.
+
+
+
+
+SKI SKIPPERS.
+
+
+The Ski Skipper affords a lively form of winter amusement, and great
+speed can be obtained on the surface of the snow, especially when the
+crust is covered with a small amount of light snow.
+
+[Illustration: The Ski Skipper will please boys as well as girls.]
+
+The runners are best made of white ash, from half-inch material, 2-3/4"
+wide and 42" long. (Plate 56.)
+
+The front end of the runners is tapered, starting about five inches from
+the end. The extreme tips are blunt, being 1/2" wide.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 56._
+
+_SKI SKIPPER_]
+
+Starting about twelve inches from the front end, the runners are thinned
+down with a plane, on the upper surface, to 3/8" thick.
+
+Both runners have a groove cut along their counters from the rear end to
+the point where they curve upward.
+
+This groove is 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide, and may be cut by various
+methods. It may be cut with a grooving plane; it may be scored with a
+sharp-pointed gauge and the inner part removed with a chisel; or, if a
+power saw is available, it may be easily cut with a dado saw.
+
+The upper edge of the runners may be chamfered about 1/8" for a finish.
+When the foregoing operations are completed, the runners should be bent,
+using the method shown in Plate 55.
+
+The slats forming the seat top are now made 1/2" × 2-1/2" × 12", and the
+single slat for the foot rest 1/2" × 1-1/2" × 12".
+
+The seat slats have holes bored and countersunk 3/4" from the edges and
+1-1/4" from the ends, to receive 1" No. 8 flat-head screws. The foot
+slat has a similar hole bored 1-1/4" from the ends and centered between
+the edges.
+
+The seat supports are first cut 7/8" × 7-1/2" × 9-1/2" and then an inch
+is measured in on the top edge on each side and lines are drawn to the
+lower corners, as shown. Saw and plane to this line, making the taper as
+shown in the side view. The cross brace is made 7/8" × 3" × 9".
+
+The supports for the foot rests are first made 7/8" × 3" × 3-1/2". On
+the upper edge, which is 3-1/2" long, measure in 3/8" from each end and
+draw the sloping lines to the lower corners, making the taper, as
+indicated. Round these upper corners.
+
+Bore holes in the runners for attaching the uprights at places where
+they will engage with the uprights, at points shown on the drawing.
+There should be three screws in each large upright and two in the
+smaller front support. Assemble with glue and 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head
+screws at all places except where the cross slats are held. At these
+points 1" No. 8 flat-head screws will be long enough.
+
+It will be noticed, in examining the top and front views, that the
+supporting uprights are not placed directly half way between the edges
+of the skis, but are offset so that they come nearer the outside edge of
+the runner. This is done so that the screw will not come in the groove.
+
+Two blocks of wood to hold the screw eyes, to which the rope is
+attached, are made from 1/2" material, 1-1/2" square.
+
+Two holes are bored in these blocks, as shown, and they are attached
+eight inches from the front end of the runner with 3/4" No. 6 round-head
+screws. A screw eye is placed in each block, of a size sufficient to
+receive a 3/8" rope.
+
+It is best to bore the hole for the screw eye first, in order to prevent
+splitting the block.
+
+A suggested color scheme is shown in the drawing. Two coats of paint
+should be applied.
+
+
+
+
+DOLL SLEIGH.
+
+
+While this drawing (Plate 57), to all intents and purposes details a
+doll sleigh, yet by increasing the dimensions slightly the sleigh will
+be suitable for a small child.
+
+First, make the runners of 1/2" spruce, or other suitable wood, cutting
+them 9" wide by 26" long.
+
+On the upper edge measure back 1-1/2" and from this point draw to the
+corner of the lower edge. Saw to this line and slightly round the
+corners, as shown. With the dividers set at a radius of 4-1/2", strike a
+circle very lightly on the opposite end of the runners, so that it will
+be just tangent to the edges and end of the board. Measure up from the
+lower edge of the runner 7-1/2" and draw a line parallel to it until it
+strikes the circle. Cut to this line and also saw to the curve of the
+circle, forming the outline of the runner. Finish to the line with a
+chisel and file. See that the two runners are exact duplicates. Bevel
+slightly on the top edge to allow the runners to flare.
+
+[Illustration: The Doll Sleigh may be made larger to carry a baby
+brother or sister.]
+
+Next make the sleigh bottom 1/2" × 10" × 16-1/2". Two braces, to go
+below the sleigh bottom, are made 1/2" × 3" × 8-1/2".
+
+These braces are cut at an angle at each end, as shown. The angle is
+obtained by measuring in 3/8" on one edge and drawing to the opposite
+lower corner from this point and sawing to the line.
+
+The sides of the sleigh are made 1/2" × 8" × 22". On the top edge
+measure in 7-3/4" and place a dot. Measure down from the right-hand
+lower corner of the sides 4-1/2" and from this point, draw to the
+right-hand upper corner.
+
+From the left-hand lower corner measure in 1-3/4" and place a dot. From
+the same corner measure up on the left-hand edge six inches and make
+another dot. Connect these two dots to form the slope of the front end.
+From the last dot placed, square a line in from the left-hand edge
+1-3/4" long. From this point sketch a free-hand curve, as is shown in
+the side view of the sleigh (Plate 57) to the point first located on the
+upper edge. Cut to the outline, being sure both sides match.
+
+The front edge of the sleigh is made 1/2" × 6" × 11" and the rear end
+1/2" × 9" × 11-1/2". On the lower edge of the rear end measure in 1-5/8"
+from each corner and draw to the upper opposite corners. Saw and plane
+to these lines. This will give the taper of the rear end.
+
+Place the board from which the front is to be cut on the backboard and
+trace the slope of the sides and carefully finish to the line.
+
+The two handles are made 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 23-1/2", and the top piece, or
+grip, 1" × 1-1/4" × 19".
+
+The uprights are mortised into the grips 5/8", as shown on the drawing.
+
+Holes are bored in the center of the curve of the runners with a
+medium-size drill, and at these points an inch dowel is cut long enough
+to fit snugly between the runners, after the sleigh is assembled. The
+ends of the dowel are cut at a slope to conform to the pitch of the
+runners. This dowel is held with glue and 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head
+screws.
+
+Holes are bored, where indicated in the side view (Plate 57), to hold
+the brace in place. Holes are also bored in the handles to attach to the
+body of sleigh at places most convenient.
+
+Holes are bored in the sleigh bottom to attach the same to the cross
+braces, using 1" No. 6 flat-head screws. Use 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head
+screws on the outside of the runners. The handles are attached with
+3/16" × 1-1/2" round-head stove bolts. All other parts should be secured
+with glue and three-penny fine finish nails.
+
+If desired the bottom of the runners may be covered with 1/2" strap
+iron.
+
+Various finishes may be used after the parts are thoroughly sanded. If
+stain is to be the finish, apply it according to the directions in the
+front of the book and, after drying eight or ten hours, apply two coats
+of shellac. Sand between coats with No. 0 sandpaper. After the last coat
+of shellac is dry apply one coat of spar varnish.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 57._
+
+_DOLL'S SLEIGH_]
+
+If paint is to be used as the finishing material, decide on the color
+scheme and apply first a priming coat of flat white, after which one or
+two finish coats may be applied when dry, sanding lightly between each
+coat.
+
+
+
+
+CHILD'S TABLE.
+
+
+This is a very useful and practical problem and has been made up in
+large numbers by seventh and eighth grade boys.
+
+The chair shown in Plate 59 fits compactly under the table and takes up
+but little room.
+
+The top is joined by gluing several boards together and finishes 30" in
+diameter. Basswood, 7/8" thick, is very good material to use. The boards
+must be carefully jointed and held together with 1/2" dowels. Hot glue
+is the best to use, although the cold glue will answer. Leave the pieces
+in the clamps overnight. The top may be cut to shape with a turning saw
+and finished to the line with a sharp chisel and file.
+
+The four legs are 7/8" × 1-3/8" × 20-3/8". Two cleats, which are screwed
+to the underside of the table, are next made, these being 7/8" × 3" ×
+24".
+
+These cross each other in the middle with a middle lap joint, as
+indicated at A, on the drawing. A notch is cut on the ends of these
+braces at C, as shown, to receive the legs.
+
+The legs are held in place with glue and 1-3/4" No. 10 round-head blue
+screws.
+
+[Illustration: Children's Table and Chairs.]
+
+The braces are attached to the top of the table with a sufficient number
+of 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws to insure a strong job.
+
+The legs are notched 3/8" deep, 7" up from the bottom, to receive the
+lower leg braces. See sketch B, Plate 58. These lower braces are 3/4" ×
+1-3/8" × 23", joined at their center with a middle lap joint, the same
+as the top braces, and are held in the notch in the legs with glue and
+1-1/2" round-head screws.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 58._
+
+_CHILD'S TABLE_]
+
+All parts should be carefully sandpapered, first with No. 1 sandpaper
+and then finished with No. 0.
+
+The final finish is optional. It may be stained and varnished or it may
+be finished in enamel.
+
+If enamel is used there should first be a couple of coats of flat white
+applied, each coat being sanded when dry, with No. 0 sandpaper, and the
+final coat of enamel applied.
+
+Some appropriate design, in a grayed color, may be put on with stencil
+if desired.
+
+
+
+
+CHILD'S CHAIR.
+
+
+Plate 59 gives directions for making the chairs to match the table in
+Plate 58.
+
+The rear legs should first be cut out of 7/8" stock, 1-1/8" wide and 25"
+long. The two connecting rails are 1-1/8" × 9-5/8". The lower rail is
+notched into both front and rear legs, 6" from the lower ends, 3/8"
+deep.
+
+The upper rail, on which the seat rests, is notched in 3/8" deep, and 4"
+above the lower rail. The pieces so far completed may now be sanded and
+assembled, using glue and 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head screws.
+
+It is well to reinforce the joints by driving an eight-penny finish nail
+each side of the screws. These should be set below the surface, and the
+hole should be filled with hard beeswax before painting.
+
+While this is drying, the front and rear rails can be made.
+
+These rails, five in number, are all 7/8" × 1-1/8" × 8-1/4".
+
+The wide back rail is made of 1/2" material, 4-1/2" wide by 8-1/4" long.
+
+Holes should next be bored for the various screws, where indicated on
+the drawing.
+
+A cross cleat, which runs between the upper side rails and helps support
+the seat, is made 7/8" × 3" × 8-1/4". This is attached, as shown in the
+sketch of the joinery of the legs and rails, and is screwed to the under
+side of the seat with 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws.
+
+The seat is made 7/8" × 10" × 11-1/2" and is notched at the corners to
+receive the rear legs. The top is rounded slightly on its rear edges.
+
+Next assemble the two sides with glue and screws of proper size, as
+shown. All surfaces should be carefully sanded and the finish should be
+treated as described for the table.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 59._
+
+_CHILD'S CHAIR_ (_To match table on preceding plate_)]
+
+
+
+
+  INDEX
+
+
+  Adapting the Problem to the Boy's Ability, 15
+
+
+  Bean Bag Game, 72-4
+
+  Bench Hook, 22-4
+
+
+  Camel, 38
+
+  Child's Cart, 93-5;
+    Chair, 130-1;
+    Dump Wagon, 95-9;
+    Snow Shovel, 46-7;
+    Step Ladder, 59-63;
+    Table, 128-30;
+    Wash Bench, 57-9;
+    Wheelbarrow (Type A), 99-103, (Type B), 102-5
+
+  Clown Running Wheel, 105-9
+
+  Cock Horse, 109-10
+
+  Colonial Doll's Chair, 66-7;
+    Cradle, 87-9;
+    Table, 64-6
+
+  Coping Saw Work, 26-7
+
+
+  Darts, 75-7
+
+  Dart Board Game, 74-6
+
+  Dippy Duck, 40-1
+
+  Doll's Bed, 89-91;
+    Clothes Rack, 55-7;
+    Cradle, 84-7;
+    Ironing Board (Size A), 49-51, (Size B), 51-3, (Size C), 53-5;
+    Sleigh, 125-8;
+    Table with Drawer, 62-4
+
+  Dowel Sticks, 27
+
+  Duck, 30
+
+
+  Elephant, 33
+
+  Equipment, 13-4
+
+
+  Finish and Color, 15-7
+
+  Five Post Ring Toss, 68-72
+
+
+  Goat, 36
+
+  Goose, 31
+
+
+  History of Toy-Making, 11-3
+
+
+  Kiddie Kar, 113-15;
+    Koaster, 116-19
+
+
+  Lamb, 35
+
+  Laying Out Work, 14
+
+
+  Merrimac, 44-5
+
+  Method of Bending Runners, 121-2;
+    of Enlarging Figures, 39-40;
+    of Jointing Wood, 18-20
+
+  Monitor, 42-3
+
+
+  Pelican, 29
+
+  Periscope, 47-8
+
+  Picture Puzzle Construction, 27-8
+
+
+  Rabbit, 34
+
+  Rhinoceros, 32
+
+  Ring-The-Hook Game, 68-9
+
+  Rocking Rooster, 111-13
+
+  Rooster, 37
+
+
+  Sand or Water Mill, 82-4
+
+  Simple Tool Sharpening, 24-6
+
+  Ski Skippers, 122-5
+
+  Ski Skooter, 119-22
+
+  Staining, 17-8
+
+  Support to be Held in Vise, 20-2;
+    for Holding Coping Saw Work, 20;
+    for Table Use, 22
+
+
+  Transferring a Design, 14-5
+
+  Two Types of Stilts, 91-3
+
+
+  Wind Mill, 77-80; (Type B) 80-2
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note.
+
+The equals sign has been used to show 'bold' in this etext.
+
+A few minor typographical errors were amended.
+
+"heighth" changed to "height".
+
+"Sonnenburg" changed to "Sonnenberg"
+
+Title of Plate illustrations were taken from drawings with inconsistent
+punctuation and this was systematised.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Toy Craft, by Leon H. Baxter
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TOY CRAFT ***
+
+***** This file should be named 44501-8.txt or 44501-8.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        http://www.gutenberg.org/4/4/5/0/44501/
+
+Produced by Chris Curnow, Paul Mitchell and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive)
+
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at
+  www.gutenberg.org/license.
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation information page at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at 809
+North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887.  Email
+contact links and up to date contact information can be found at the
+Foundation's web site and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations.
+To donate, please visit:  www.gutenberg.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For forty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
+
diff --git a/old/44501-8.zip b/old/44501-8.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..984891a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-8.zip
diff --git a/old/44501-h.zip b/old/44501-h.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..936f525
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h.zip
diff --git a/old/44501-h/44501-h.htm b/old/44501-h/44501-h.htm
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1d8f5d5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/44501-h.htm
@@ -0,0 +1,4692 @@
+<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN"
+    "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd">
+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en">
+  <head>
+    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=us-ascii" />
+    <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" />
+    <title>
+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of Toy Craft, by Leon H. Baxter.
+    </title>
+<link rel = "coverpage" href = "images/cover.jpg" />
+    <style type="text/css">
+
+body {
+    margin-left: 10%;
+    margin-right: 10%;
+}
+
+    h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {
+    text-align: center; /* all headings centered */
+    clear: both;
+}
+
+    div.home {
+    text-align: right;
+}
+
+p {
+    margin-top: .51em;
+    text-align: justify;
+    margin-bottom: .49em;
+}
+
+.p2       {margin-top: 2em;}
+.p4       {margin-top: 4em;}
+.p6       {margin-top: 6em;}
+.ph1, .ph2, .ph3, .ph4 { text-align: center; text-indent: 0em; font-weight: bold; }
+.ph1 { font-size: xx-large; margin: .67em auto; }
+.ph2 { font-size: x-large; margin: .75em auto; }
+.ph3 { font-size: large; margin: .83em auto; }
+.ph4 { font-size: medium; margin: 1.12em auto; }
+
+
+hr {
+    width: 33%;
+    margin-top: 2em;
+    margin-bottom: 2em;
+    margin-left: 33.5%;
+    margin-right: 33.5%;
+    clear: both;
+}
+
+hr.tb   {width: 45%;margin-left:27.5%; margin-right:27.5%;}
+hr.chap {width: 65%;margin-left:17.5%; margin-right:17.5%;}
+hr.full {width: 95%;margin-left:2.5%; margin-right:2.5%;}
+
+hr.r5  {width: 5%; margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em;margin-left:47.5%; margin-right:47.5%;}
+hr.r65 {width: 65%; margin-top: 3em; margin-bottom: 3em;margin-left:17.5%; margin-right:17.5%;}
+
+ul.index { list-style-type: none; }
+li.ifrst { margin-top: 1em; }
+li.indx { margin-top: .5em; }
+li.isub1 {text-indent: 1em;}
+li.isub2 {text-indent: 2em;}
+li.isub3 {text-indent: 3em;}
+
+table {
+    margin-left: auto;
+    margin-right: auto;
+}
+
+    .tdl      {text-align: left;}
+    .tdr      {text-align: right;}
+    .tdc      {text-align: center;}
+
+.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */
+    /*  visibility: hidden;  */
+    position: absolute;
+    left: 92%;
+    font-size: smaller;
+    text-align: right;
+} /* page numbers */
+
+.linenum {
+    position: absolute;
+    top: auto;
+    left: 4%;
+} /* poetry number */
+
+.blockquot {
+    margin-left: 5%;
+    margin-right: 10%;
+}
+
+.sidenote {
+    width: 20%;
+    padding-bottom: .5em;
+    padding-top: .5em;
+    padding-left: .5em;
+    padding-right: .5em;
+    margin-left: 1em;
+    float: right;
+    clear: right;
+    margin-top: 1em;
+    font-size: smaller;
+    color: black;
+    background: #eeeeee;
+    border: dashed 1px;
+}
+
+.bb       {border-bottom: solid 2px;}
+
+.bl       {border-left: solid 2px;}
+
+.bt       {border-top: solid 2px;}
+
+.br       {border-right: solid 2px;}
+
+.bbox     {border: solid 2px;}
+
+.center   {text-align: center;}
+
+.right   {text-align: right;}
+
+.smcap    {font-variant: small-caps;}
+
+.u        {text-decoration: underline;}
+
+.gesperrt
+{
+    letter-spacing: 0.2em;
+    margin-right: -0.2em;
+}
+
+em.gesperrt
+{
+    font-style: normal;
+}
+
+.caption  {text-align:center;
+           text-indent:0;
+           margin: 0.25em 0;
+           font-size: 1.25em;
+           font-weight: bold;}
+
+/* Images */
+.figcenter   {
+    margin: auto;
+    text-align: center;
+}
+
+.figleft {
+    float: left;
+    clear: left;
+    margin-left: 0;
+    margin-bottom: 1em;
+    margin-top: 1em;
+    margin-right: 1em;
+    padding: 0;
+    text-align: center;
+}
+
+.figright {
+    float: right;
+    clear: right;
+    margin-left: 1em;
+    margin-bottom:
+    1em;
+    margin-top: 1em;
+    margin-right: 0;
+    padding: 0;
+    text-align: center;
+}
+
+/* Footnotes */
+.footnotes        {border: dashed 1px;}
+
+.footnote         {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;}
+
+.footnote .label  {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;}
+
+.fnanchor {
+    vertical-align: super;
+    font-size: .8em;
+    text-decoration:
+    none;
+}
+
+/* Poetry */
+.poem {
+    margin-left:10%;
+    margin-right:10%;
+    text-align: left;
+}
+
+.poem br {display: none;}
+
+.poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;}
+
+/* Transcriber's notes */
+.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA;
+    color: black;
+     font-size:smaller;
+     padding:0.5em;
+     margin-bottom:5em;
+     font-family:sans-serif, serif; }
+    </style>
+  </head>
+<body>
+
+
+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Toy Craft, by Leon H. Baxter
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Toy Craft
+
+Author: Leon H. Baxter
+
+Release Date: December 24, 2013 [EBook #44501]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TOY CRAFT ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chris Curnow, Paul Mitchell and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="ph2">TOY CRAFT<br /><br /></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a><br /><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span></p>
+
+<h1>TOY CRAFT<br /><br /></h1>
+<p class="ph2">LEON H. BAXTER</p>
+<p class="ph3">Director of Manual Training, Public Schools</p>
+<p class="ph3">ST. JOHNSBURY, VT.</p>
+<p><br /></p>
+<p class="ph4">Author of Boy Bird House Architecture, and Elementary Concrete Construction<br /><br /></p>
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_004m.jpg" width = "118" height = "174" alt = "Printer's Logo"/></div>
+
+<p class="ph2"><br /><br />THE BRUCE PUBLISHING COMPANY</p>
+<p class="ph3">MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN<br /></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span></p>
+<p class="ph4"><br />Copyright 1922</p>
+<p class="ph4">The Bruce Publishing Company</p>
+<p class="ph4">Printed in the United States of America</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="INTRODUCTORY_NOTES" id="INTRODUCTORY_NOTES">INTRODUCTORY NOTES</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>The purpose of such a book as Mr. Baxter's "Toy Craft" is to furnish
+definite instructions for the making of toys for boys and girls by the
+children themselves. Miniature furniture, wooden dolls, carts and
+animals&mdash;of how much greater value is one such plaything actually put
+together by a child than any number of toys made in a factory or
+imported from some foreign country? Truly a step forward has been taken
+in putting before the people a book which will unconsciously instill in
+the minds of the children the value of the hand-made in preference to
+the machine-made article.</p>
+
+<p>Not only is Mr. Baxter peculiarly fitted to publish such a volume as
+"Toy Craft" in the light of his knowledge of manual training, but also
+because of his understanding of the spirit behind the production of
+toys, which bring such joy to the hearts of boys and girls.</p>
+
+<p>To the satisfaction of actually making some wooden cart, or bird, or
+animal may be added the happiness of doing the work for some other
+child. It is this vision of service for others which Mr. Baxter has
+already caught and demonstrated, and we feel sure that this little
+volume will do much to promote the improved individual construction of
+toys by children, at the same time instilling into the hearts of the
+boys the joy of making something for somebody else, of experiencing the
+truth, "It is more blessed to give than to receive."</p>
+
+<p class = "right">
+MABEL E. TURNER,<br />
+Field Representative for Junior Service,<br />
+New England Division, American Red Cross.<br />
+</p>
+
+<hr class="tb" />
+
+<p>One of the hard problems in manual training, for boys up to twelve years
+of age, is to find worth-while things to make, within the capacity of
+boys of this age. Having been engaged in this kind of work for over
+twenty years I can appreciate the problems of the manual training
+instructor in the grades.</p>
+
+<p>After carefully examining the cuts and directions for the various
+projects as given in "Toy Craft," and having seen the boys at work, as
+well as the completed articles, in Mr. Baxter's department, I can
+readily see how the great interest that is inspired in the boys is
+derived.</p>
+
+<p>I heartily commend this book to all manual training teachers as a great
+help in the solution of their problems with boys.</p>
+
+<p class = "right">
+STANLEY J. STEWARD, M. E.,<br />
+Director, St. Johnsbury Vocational School.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span></p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE">PREFACE</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>Each year American parents spend millions of dollars for toys for the
+children. In a short time a large part of these toys are broken, and lie
+in the corner or the back yard. This is because of the destructive
+habits children have developed. These same habits have been formed
+because, since birth, toys have cost these children nothing.</p>
+
+<p>Children, like grown-ups, value things and form habits in proportion to
+the cost to them. They break up what costs them nothing, and cherish and
+keep repaired what they, themselves, have made or purchased with
+self-denial or self-earned money.</p>
+
+<p>The breaking of toys is bad, but the effect upon the character of the
+child is infinitely worse. Destructive tendencies are developed, while
+constructive ability is allowed to lie dormant and inactive.</p>
+
+<p>The remedy for this is to develop the constructive rather than the
+destructive in children by buying them working outfits and books of
+instruction with which they can make and repair things for themselves.
+In other words, buy tools, equipment and supplies rather than finished
+toys. Carlisle said, "Man without tools is nothing; man with tools is
+all." Education is to children what civilization is to the race.</p>
+
+<p>What to buy for each particular child depends upon the age and
+tendencies of the child and is a matter parents must determine for
+themselves. The important test is, "Is it something that the child can
+use to make things for himself, for others and for the home?"</p>
+
+<p>When purchasing tools it is an excellent plan to leave some part of the
+outfit for the children to make or to buy from money they themselves
+have earned. In other words, co-operate with the children instead of
+doing it all for them.</p>
+
+<p>The writer speaks not only from the teacher's point of view, but from
+the parent's as well. The problems offered in this book are not only
+within the capabilities of the average child, but are all tested and
+proven as being worth-while and appealing strongly to the child's ideals
+and imagination.</p>
+
+<p class = "right">
+LEON H. BAXTER.<br /></p>
+<p>St. Johnsbury, Vt.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span></p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="TABLE_OF_CONTENTS" id="TABLE_OF_CONTENTS">TABLE OF CONTENTS</a></h2>
+
+<table id="indexjump" summary="alpha jump table" width = "380">
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td>Page</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#HISTORY_OF_TOY-MAKING">History of Toy-Making</a></td><td><a href="#Page_11">11-3</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#EQUIPMENT">Equipment</a></td><td><a href="#Page_13">13-4</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#LAYING_OUT_WORK">Laying Out Work</a></td><td><a href="#Page_14">14</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#TRANSFERRING_A_DESIGN_TO_WOOD">Transferring a Design</a></td><td><a href="#Page_14">14-5</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#ADAPTING_THE_PROBLEM_TO_THE_BOYS_ABILITY">Adapting the Problem to the Boy's Ability</a></td><td><a href="#Page_15">15</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#FINISH_AND_COLOR">Finish and Color</a></td><td><a href="#Page_15">15-7</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#STAINING">Staining</a></td><td><a href="#Page_17">17-8</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#METHOD_OF_JOINTING_WOOD">Method of Jointing Wood</a></td><td><a href="#Page_18">18-20</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#SUPPORTS_FOR_HOLDING_COPING_SAW_WORK">Supports for Holding Coping Saw Work</a></td><td><a href="#Page_20">20</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#SUPPORT_TO_BE_HELD_IN_VISE">Support to be Held in Vise</a></td><td><a href="#Page_20">20-2</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#SUPPORT_FOR_TABLE_USE">Supports for Table Use</a></td><td><a href="#Page_22">22</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#THE_BENCH_HOOK">The Bench Hook</a></td><td><a href="#Page_22">22-4</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#SIMPLE_TOOL_SHARPENING">Simple Tool Sharpening</a></td><td><a href="#Page_24">24-6</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#COPING_SAW_WORK">Coping Saw Work</a></td><td><a href="#Page_26">26-7</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#DOWEL_STICKS">Dowel Sticks</a></td><td><a href="#Page_27">27</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#PICTURE_PUZZLE_CONSTRUCTION">Picture Puzzle Construction</a></td><td><a href="#Page_27">27-8</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Pelican">Pelican</a></td><td><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Duck">Duck</a></td><td><a href="#Page_30">30</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Goose">Goose</a></td><td><a href="#Page_31">31</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Rhinoceros">Rhinoceros</a></td><td><a href="#Page_32">32</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Elephant">Elephant</a></td><td><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Rabbit">Rabbit</a></td><td><a href="#Page_34">34</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Lamb">Lamb</a></td><td><a href="#Page_35">35</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Goat">Goat</a></td><td><a href="#Page_36">36</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Rooster">Rooster</a></td><td><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Camel">Camel</a></td><td><a href="#Page_38">38</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#METHOD_OF_ENLARGING_FIGURES">Method of Enlarging Figures</a></td><td><a href="#Page_39">39-40</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#DIPPY_DUCK">Dippy Duck</a></td><td><a href="#Page_40">40-1</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#THE_MONITOR">Monitor</a></td><td><a href="#Page_42">42-3</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#THE_MERRIMAC">Merrimac</a></td><td><a href="#Page_44">44-5</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHILDS_SNOW_SHOVEL">Child's Snow Shovel</a></td><td><a href="#Page_46">46-7</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#THE_PERISCOPE">The Periscope</a></td><td><a href="#Page_47">47-8</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#DOLLS_IRONING_BOARD_A">Doll's Ironing Board (Size A)</a></td><td><a href="#Page_49">49-51</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#DOLLS_IRONING_BOARD_B">Doll's Ironing Board (Size B)</a></td><td><a href="#Page_51">51-3</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#DOLLS_IRONING_BOARD_C">Doll's Ironing Board (Size C)</a></td><td><a href="#Page_53">53-5</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#DOLLS_CLOTHES_RACK">Doll's Clothes Rack</a></td><td><a href="#Page_55">55-7</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHILDS_WASH_BENCH">Child's Wash Bench</a></td><td><a href="#Page_57">57-9</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHILDS_STEP_LADDER">Child's Step Ladder</a></td><td><a href="#Page_59">59-63</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#DOLLS_TABLE_WITH_DRAWER">Doll's Table with Drawer</a></td><td><a href="#Page_62">62-4</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#COLONIAL_DOLLS_TABLE">Colonial Doll's Table</a></td><td><a href="#Page_64">64-6</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#COLONIAL_DOLLS_CHAIR">Colonial Doll's Chair</a></td><td><a href="#Page_66">66-7</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#RING-THE-HOOK_GAME">Ring-The-Hook Game</a></td><td><a href="#Page_68">68-9</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#FIVE_POST_RING_TOSS">Five Post Ring Toss</a></td><td><a href="#Page_68">68-72</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#BEAN_BAG_GAME">Bean Bag Game</a></td><td><a href="#Page_72">72-4</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#DART_BOARD_GAME">Dart Board Game</a></td><td><a href="#Page_74">74-6</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Darts">Darts</a></td><td><a href="#Page_75">75-7</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#WIND_MILL_A">Wind Mill</a></td><td><a href="#Page_77">77-80</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#WIND_MILL_B">Wind Mill (Type B)</a></td><td><a href="#Page_80">80-2</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#SAND_OR_WATER_MILL">Sand or Water Mill</a></td><td><a href="#Page_82">82-4</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#DOLLS_CRADLE">Doll's Cradle</a></td><td><a href="#Page_84">84-7</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#COLONIAL_DOLL_CRADLE">Colonial Doll Cradle</a></td><td><a href="#Page_87">87-9</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#DOLLS_BED">Doll's Bed</a></td><td><a href="#Page_89">89-91</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#TWO_TYPES_OF_STILTS">Two Types of Stilts</a></td><td><a href="#Page_91">91-3</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHILDS_CART">Child's Cart</a></td><td><a href="#Page_93">93-5</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHILDS_DUMP_WAGON">Child's Dump Wagon</a></td><td><a href="#Page_95">95-9</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHILDS_WHEELBARROW_A">Child's Wheelbarrow (Type A)</a></td><td><a href="#Page_99">99-103</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHILDS_WHEELBARROW_B">Child's Wheelbarrow (Type B)</a></td><td><a href="#Page_102">102-5</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CLOWN_RUNNING_WHEEL">Clown Running Wheel</a></td><td><a href="#Page_105">105-9</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#COCK_HORSE">Cock Horse</a></td><td><a href="#Page_109">109-10</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#ROCKING_ROOSTER">Rocking Rooster</a></td><td><a href="#Page_111">111-13</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#KIDDIE_KAR">Kiddie Kar</a></td><td><a href="#Page_113">113-15</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#KIDDIE_KOASTER">Kiddie Koaster</a></td><td><a href="#Page_116">116-19</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#SKI_SKOOTER">Ski Skooter</a></td><td><a href="#Page_119">119-22</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#METHOD_OF_BENDING_RUNNERS">Method of Bending Runners</a></td><td><a href="#Page_121">121-2</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#SKI_SKIPPERS">Ski Skippers</a></td><td><a href="#Page_122">122-5</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#DOLL_SLEIGH">Doll Sleigh</a></td><td><a href="#Page_125">125-8</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHILDS_TABLE">Child's Table</a></td><td><a href="#Page_128">128-30</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHILDS_CHAIR">Child's Chair</a></td><td><a href="#Page_130">130-1</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+<p><br /></p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p><br /></p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span></p>
+<p><br /></p>
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_014ma.jpg" width = "800" height = "545" alt = "Girls Making Toys"/>
+<div class = "caption">Girls Making Toys for a Red Cross Christmas Sale.</div>
+</div>
+<p><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_014mb.jpg" width = "800" height = "545" alt = "A Christmas Sale"/>
+<div class = "caption">A Christmas Sale of Toys for the Red Cross.</div>
+</div>
+<p><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_014mc.jpg" width = "800" height = "454" alt = "Boy Toy Makers"/>
+<div class = "caption">Boy Toy Makers and Some of their Products.</div>
+</div>
+<p><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_014md.jpg" width = "800" height = "365" alt = "Making Toys"/>
+<div class = "caption">Making Toys in the School Shop.</div>
+</div>
+<p><br /></p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<p class="ph1"><a name="TOY_CRAFT" id="TOY_CRAFT">TOY CRAFT</a></p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="HISTORY_OF_TOY-MAKING" id="HISTORY_OF_TOY-MAKING">HISTORY OF TOY-MAKING.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>To tell the history of toy-making from its earliest days it would be
+necessary to follow the story back through many centuries, for the
+archaeologists, in delving among the tombs of ancient Greece and Egypt,
+have made the surprising discovery that children played with dolls, and
+jointed dolls at that, more than five thousand years ago.</p>
+
+<p>Moreover, by the side of these dolls scientists have unearthed other
+playthings that children still crave: doll's furniture, animal toys and
+toys with wheels, illustrating the methods of transportation of those
+early days.</p>
+
+<p>These same scientists claim that the custom of playing with dolls and
+other toys is as old as the world itself and that playthings are, and
+always have been, just as necessary a constituent of human health and
+development as either food or medicine.</p>
+
+<p>They claim that the reason that boys and girls crave toys is that nature
+requires them, and to deprive children of such playthings would be to
+retard their mental growth and development.</p>
+
+<p>The Latin word <b>trochus</b> means a hoop for children. The hoops of Roman
+children were made of bronze and iron and were rolled by a sort of a
+crooked stick and sometimes had small bells attached.</p>
+
+<p><b>Pupa</b>, the Latin word meaning "a little girl," applies to dolls which
+were made from rags, wood, wax, ivory and terra cotta. When the Greek
+girls of that time married they dedicated their dolls to Artemis; the
+Roman girls, to Venus; but, if they died before marriage, their dolls
+were buried with them.</p>
+
+<p>The Latin word <b>crepundia</b> meant children's playthings, such as rattles,
+dolls, toy hatchets and swords.</p>
+
+<p>The toys made during the middle ages for the children of noble families
+and rich merchants, show special care and fine workmanship. Many of them
+were of a religious nature in the form of the Cross of the Crusaders, or
+military in origin, like miniature knights on horseback. The toys of
+this period were generally carved by goldsmiths.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The American Indians and the Esquimaux made dolls from bits of skin and
+fur of wild animals and gaily decorated them with shells, beads and
+feathers. They also carved small models of animals and human beings from
+wood and bone.</p>
+
+<p>The oldest European toy manufacturing center is Nuremberg, Germany. This
+town is especially noted for its metal playthings, like the lead
+soldiers, which were the delight of our childhood. Sonneberg, in
+Germany, is the greatest European center for the manufacture of wooden
+toys.</p>
+
+<p>Winchendon, Mass., is the greatest toy manufacturing center in the
+United States, nearly every enterprise in that town being toy-making.</p>
+
+<p>In spite of the early origin of toys the progress of manufacturing
+playthings has been so slow that, even as late as one hundred years ago,
+the types of toys were few in number, simple in construction and
+extremely expensive, especially in the United States.</p>
+
+<p>There was no systematic manufacture of such articles, and, as the cost
+of importation was very high, comparatively few persons could afford
+such means of amusement for their children.</p>
+
+<p>The children of those days accepted more primitive things, dolls that
+were often merely pieces of cloth folded and pinned in such a manner as
+to suggest the outline that was not there.</p>
+
+<p>A few other toys such as hoops, jumping-jacks, tenpins, marbles,
+battledore-and-shuttlecock and alphabet blocks, represented the limit of
+the toy-makers' stock.</p>
+
+<p>In America the toy-making industry is of quite recent origin. Before
+1875 more than ninety per cent of the toys sold in this country were of
+foreign manufacture, and those that were made here were never exported
+to other countries. Today, however, about five per cent of the toys sold
+here are made abroad and the rest are manufactured here in our own
+country. Up to 1875 there was not a doll factory in the United States.</p>
+
+<p>Today, while we import some dainty toys from France, Germany and
+Switzerland, nearly all the newest, unique and mechanical productions
+are made in America.</p>
+
+<p>Simple toys are mostly made of wood and metal, and the same principles
+employed by mechanical engineers, in duplicating parts of machinery, are
+used in making duplicate parts of toys.</p>
+
+<p>When a design has been decided on, it is reduced to its most simple
+element. Jigs are then made so that each piece will be an exact
+duplicate of every similar piece, and the construction is pushed through
+on the American factory system.</p>
+
+<p>Some toys are very elaborate, costing several hundred<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> dollars. These
+are readily purchased, however, by people of means.</p>
+
+<p>In the author's opinion the best kind of toys are those which suggest
+rather than fulfill, and those with which the child can really do
+something. Mechanical toys, which supply their own energy, should not be
+allowed to take the place of those into which the child must infuse part
+of his own life and energy. It follows naturally, then, that the toys
+made by the children themselves are the ideal ones.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="EQUIPMENT" id="EQUIPMENT">EQUIPMENT.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>The following drawings vary in difficulty from those within the ability
+of a nine or ten-year-old child to those which should not be attempted
+by a child under junior high school age. Of course there are younger
+boys, who possess especial ability in this line of work and who can
+successfully carry through projects which the ordinary child of a like
+age would fail to satisfactorily complete. Such boys are, however, the
+exception.</p>
+
+<p>For the younger workman the following outfit is ample:</p>
+
+<p>One coping saw frame.</p>
+
+<p>One dozen saw blades.</p>
+
+<p>A sloyd knife or a pocket knife with a small stone to keep it sharp.</p>
+
+<p>Some No. 1 sandpaper, a small can of glue and some one inch brads.</p>
+
+<p>The whole outfit will cost about a dollar.</p>
+
+<p>A small plane is very convenient, but it is not absolutely necessary for
+work for younger children.</p>
+
+<p>A board on which the sawing is done, to prevent marring the table, can
+be made from a piece of boxwood 7/8" &times; 6" &times; 12". A hole should be bored
+about three inches from one end and half way between the sides, and a
+V-shaped notch should be cut from the end of the board to the hole. The
+photograph on Page <a href = "#Page_20">20</a> shows the sawing board in use and illustrates two
+methods of constructing and holding the board. See also <a href = "#Holding">Plate 2</a> for
+method of making these boards. If a vise is available matters are very
+much simplified.</p>
+
+<p>With the above described outfit, toy animals, toy furniture,
+jumping-jacks and other simple toys of a like nature can be made.</p>
+
+<p>The material should be thin wood from the thickness of cigar box wood
+(which by the way is especially good to use for some of the toys), up to
+one-half inch in thickness.</p>
+
+<p>Composition board, such as Beaver Board and similar wall board, is very
+good for the smaller toys but lacks strength and cannot be handled
+roughly.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Three-ply veneered wood may be obtained from firms which specialize in
+veneer. It is strong and serviceable but a little more expensive than
+the plain wood.</p>
+
+<p>Bass and pine are excellent woods to use in toy-making, as they work
+very easily and are light in weight.</p>
+
+<p>For the older boy, who will no doubt be handy about the house, the
+following tools are suggested:</p>
+
+<p>
+1 Rip saw.<br />
+1 Turning saw.<br />
+1 Claw hammer.<br />
+1 Screw driver.<br />
+1 Half round file, No. 10.<br />
+1 Ruler.<br />
+1 Jack, or smooth, plane.<br />
+1 Brace, set of bits and countersink.<br />
+A 1/2" and 1" chisels.<br />
+1 Try square.<br />
+1 Pair of 6" dividers.<br />
+1 Knife.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>This outfit should cost about $25. Other tools may be added by the boy
+himself as the necessity arises.</p>
+
+<p>If a bench is not available at first, a temporary one may be made from a
+stout dry goods box and a more satisfactory one purchased later with
+money earned by the boy by making things for others.</p>
+
+<p>Cheap tools are an expensive investment as they are never satisfactory.
+A few tools of good quality should be purchased to start with, and
+others should be added as necessity demands and funds permit.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="LAYING_OUT_WORK" id="LAYING_OUT_WORK">LAYING OUT WORK.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>For the young beginner it will be necessary to have patterns of animals
+and other toys to trace around, before cutting out the forms.</p>
+
+<p>In the author's opinion originality should be always encouraged in a boy
+when the original designs can be successfully worked out to completion
+by the boy.</p>
+
+<p>With beginners, however, considerable tact must be used in leading them
+on to work out original ideas through the medium of the sketching
+pencil. Only very few have the ability to carry out an idea which they
+may have, and if allowed to attempt it without a trial on paper the
+resulting product is most always a failure. As stated before, the first
+work should be tracings from well-designed patterns. These, then, can be
+successfully worked out, and the result is satisfying to the mind of the
+child and not a discouraging failure.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="TRANSFERRING_A_DESIGN_TO_WOOD" id="TRANSFERRING_A_DESIGN_TO_WOOD">TRANSFERRING A DESIGN TO WOOD.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>A design may be traced by placing a piece of transparent paper over the
+desired drawing and outlining it with a pencil. The resulting tracing is
+cut out, placed on a stiff piece of cardboard or fiber board, and
+redrawn on this. The board is then cut carefully with scissors or a
+sharp knife. This pattern may be used for a long time and other patterns
+may be made from it in a similar manner.</p>
+
+<p>Another simple method is to place a piece of carbon paper beneath the
+desired drawing, carbon side down, and to go over the lines of the
+drawing with a medium-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span>hard pencil. This transfer may be made directly
+on the wood or on a piece of cardboard which is to be cut out and used
+as a pattern. For cut-up picture puzzles the picture is pasted directly
+on the wood and, after drying, is cut at random. See <a href = "#Puzzle1">Plate 5</a>.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="ADAPTING_THE_PROBLEM_TO_THE_BOYS_ABILITY" id="ADAPTING_THE_PROBLEM_TO_THE_BOYS_ABILITY">ADAPTING THE PROBLEM TO THE BOY'S ABILITY.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>As the child's efficiency increases and he leaves the simpler toy forms
+for others of increasing difficulty, he should be encouraged to read the
+working drawings of the article which he intends to make. Show him how
+to discover from the drawing the lengths, widths, thicknesses of the
+pieces to be made and, after carefully checking him up, let him work out
+his own salvation for a while. In other words, do not do it all for him.
+Let the result be at least 90 per cent the boy's own work. Be ready,
+however, to assist at the right moment and never turn a deaf ear to the
+persistent question, "Why"?</p>
+
+<p>By following this logical method of procedure in teaching, the writer
+has found that the young craftsman is ready a great deal earlier to work
+out original ideas and designs to a practical and successful conclusion.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="FINISH_AND_COLOR" id="FINISH_AND_COLOR">FINISH AND COLOR.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>After all cutting with edged tools has been completed, all pieces should
+be carefully sanded to insure the removal of all scars, pencil lines and
+other imperfections.</p>
+
+<p>Sandpaper should be used on a small block. Care should be taken that no
+paper hangs over the block, thus rounding the edges of the work being
+finished.</p>
+
+<p>In sanding over a first coat of shellac or paint a block is not used,
+but the sandpaper is folded two or three times and used under the finger
+tips. Care must be taken especially not to wear through the finish on
+the edges.</p>
+
+<p>Paint is difficult and unsatisfactory for younger children to use.
+Colors handled by beginners will run together and will be "dauby" in
+appearance and a detriment rather than a finish to a toy. Added to this
+is the likelihood of a generous application on the painter's hands and
+clothing.</p>
+
+<p>The writer has had excellent results in using the ordinary colored wax
+crayons on toys. Crayon is easy to apply, has a pleasing color tone, is
+clean and very satisfactory for the beginner. After all of a toy has
+been colored a fairly heavy line may be drawn free-hand, at the point of
+contact of the colors, with an ordinary drafting pen and India ink.
+Pains should be taken to see that the ink is dry in one place before
+applying in another. If the crayon has been put on with pressure and
+uniformly deposited over the surface the ink will "take"<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> without
+spreading and the result is a clean-cut finished appearance.</p>
+
+<p>For more advanced workers the toys should be painted with either
+commercial or enamel paints, which are available on the market in all
+colors, or with colors mixed by the boy himself. If the boy mixes his
+own colors much of the mystery of the ready-mixed paints is done away
+with.</p>
+
+<p>By adding to white enamel a small amount of a selected color, ground in
+oil, various tones of the color may be obtained.</p>
+
+<p>In painting any object a first or priming coat is applied. Flat white is
+an excellent all-round primer. After the priming coat has dried
+thoroughly on a toy, it should be sanded lightly to remove any rough
+places with No. 0 sandpaper and dusted. Then the final coat should be
+applied.</p>
+
+<p>Gray is also very good for the first coat except where a white or very
+light colored paints are to be used for the finished coat.</p>
+
+<p>When painting small toys or parts of larger toys it is economy to have a
+string or wire stretched between two hooks six or seven feet from the
+floor, on which to hang the painted article.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_026m.jpg" width = "800" height = "532" alt = "Careful Painting"/>
+<div class = "caption">Careful painting is as essential to the success of a toy as good construction.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><br />Drive an inch brad into some part of the toy that will not be seen, such
+as the lower edge of the animal toys, and attach a short length of
+string or wire to this and hang up as before described. This nail will
+be handy to hold the toy by while painting and when hung up is out of
+the way, is not touching anything to cause marks on the paint, and is
+high enough up to be where the temperature of the room will assist in
+the drying process. Remove this nail after the toy is dry. If possible
+toys should dry in a special room where it is quiet, with no<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> dust
+stirring or drafts blowing, and where the temperature is fairly uniform,
+not falling below 60 degrees.</p>
+
+<p>Paint should be applied with the tip of the brush, holding the brush
+nearly vertical, using a uniform stroke and taking care to prevent
+"tears" or surplus paint running over an edge. The brush should be in
+proportion to the size of the article painted, and the strokes should be
+outward toward the edges rather than from the edges inward.</p>
+
+<p>Features and fine lines on the toys may be placed with No. 3 round sable
+brush or with India ink in an ordinary drafting pen. The latter method
+of outlining and drawing in features has proved most successful with the
+writer's classes, as the solidity of the pen allows a firm pressure on
+the surface of the work and insures a uniform line. Fine or coarse lines
+may be made by adjusting the pen to suit the desired need.</p>
+
+<p>Considerable skill is needed to satisfactorily place lines with a fine
+pointed brush held in the hands of an inexperienced boy, and the
+drafting-pen method simplifies the problem immensely.</p>
+
+<p>Adjoining colors, outlined by this method, improve the appearance of the
+toy fifty per cent.</p>
+
+<p>Dull colors may be "livened up" by applying a coat of white shellac or
+varnish.</p>
+
+<p>Toys having parts of various colors, such as carts, etc., should have
+the different parts painted before assembling.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="STAINING" id="STAINING">STAINING.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>Before attempting to stain a toy, the wood should be carefully examined
+to see that all scars, glue or scratches have been removed. This is very
+important as the stain will show up all imperfections in the wood very
+plainly. Enough stain should be poured in a shallow cup for the piece of
+work at hand and should then be applied with a brush with the grain of
+the wood in long narrow bands from one end of the work to the other. The
+stain should be wiped with a piece of waste or cloth soon after being
+applied, removing all surplus stain and thus bringing out the grain of
+the wood.</p>
+
+<p>Pains must be taken when staining the edges not to allow the stain to
+run over on the adjacent surface. If it does the stain should be quickly
+wiped off with a piece of waste before it causes the surface to be
+unevenly stained.</p>
+
+<p>There will probably be no necessity in toy construction to use filler on
+the wood so the method of applying this will be omitted.</p>
+
+<p>Next apply a coat of white shellac (reduced by one part of alcohol to
+three parts of shellac), brushing it on quickly with the grain of the
+wood.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Do not have too much shellac on the brush. If laps or runs show, work
+them out with the brush.</p>
+
+<p>After the shellac has dried eight or ten hours it should be rubbed
+lightly with No. 0 sandpaper. Be careful not to sand through the
+shellac, particularly on the edges. A second coat may be applied if
+desired.</p>
+
+<p>For the last coat apply a coat of either hard or liquid wax, the latter
+being preferable.</p>
+
+<p>Shake the can or jar before applying liquid wax. Apply evenly with a
+soft cloth and allow it to dry for an hour. Rub down to the proper
+luster with a soft clean cloth. Two or more coats of wax may be applied
+if desired.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="METHOD_OF_JOINTING_WOOD" id="METHOD_OF_JOINTING_WOOD">METHOD OF JOINTING WOOD.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>If, on account of width, certain pieces of work cannot be obtained from
+material at hand, two pieces may have to be joined together.</p>
+
+<p>One edge of each piece to be joined should be carefully planed square
+and straight. Keep trying the two edges together until a satisfactory
+joint is obtained, one so satisfactory that when the edges are placed
+together no joint line is visible. When such a joint is obtained we are
+ready to take the next step&mdash;to locate holes for dowels.</p>
+
+<p>This method is shown in <a href = "#Jointing">Plate 1</a>, Fig. A. Here the two pieces are placed
+face to face and lines are squared across the two edges, planning
+enough space to insure a strong job. Two or three dowels are usually
+sufficient. Locate the centers of all these lines so that the spur of
+the bit will come equidistant from each edge, as shown.</p>
+
+<p>Bore the holes at least twice as deep as the wood is thick. Thus for
+half inch stock the holes should be at least an inch deep.</p>
+
+<p>For half inch and three-eighths inch wood the hole should be bored with
+a quarter inch bit, for wood three-quarter inch to one inch thick a half
+inch bit should be used.</p>
+
+<p>Take extreme care in boring the holes to see that the bit is at right
+angles to the edge of the wood, otherwise difficulties will arise when
+we come to put the work together.</p>
+
+<p>After all holes are bored, the round sticks called dowels should be cut,
+one-eighth inch shorter than the combined depths of the two holes. This
+allowance is made so that glue may work under the ends of the dowels and
+also that the dowels may not be too long and thus prevent the edges of
+the joint from coming together.</p>
+
+<p>Apply glue to the dowels and insert them in the holes and spread glue on
+both of the edges, as shown in Fig. B, Plate 1.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span><br /></p>
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Jointing"><img src="images/i_031m.jpg" width = "800" height = "492" alt = "Jointing Wood"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 1.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Place the work in clamps, if available, protecting the edges of the wood
+from the iron of the clamps with small pieces or blocks of soft wood.</p>
+
+<p>Fig. C shows the clamps in position. If no clamps are at hand a
+makeshift clamp may be made, as shown in Fig. D. In using this clamping
+arrangement a strong piece of wood should be nailed to the floor, where
+such nailing will do no harm, driving the nails only about
+three-quarters of the way in. Place the wood to be clamped against this
+and nail two wedge shaped pieces about an inch and a half away, as
+shown. Prepare other pieces, also of wedge shape, of a proper size to
+drive into place, as indicated.</p>
+
+<p>By a careful study of Fig. D the important features of such a method of
+clamping will be understood.</p>
+
+<p>The cold glue that comes in cans ready for use will be found most
+convenient for the beginner to use. The clamps should remain on the work
+overnight, and when removed the two surfaces of the wood must be cleaned
+of all glue and planed.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="SUPPORTS_FOR_HOLDING_COPING_SAW_WORK" id="SUPPORTS_FOR_HOLDING_COPING_SAW_WORK">SUPPORTS FOR HOLDING COPING SAW WORK.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>In <a href = "#Holding">Plate 2</a> are shown two devices for holding work while using the coping
+saw. Fig. A is a type of support suitable for use in a vise and is of a
+height that will enable the workman to stand while sawing. Fig. B is
+lower, and the sawing is done while sitting in a chair. This type is
+designed for use where there is no vise and is held secure by a clamp,
+as is shown in the sketch.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Photo1"><img src="images/i_033m.jpg" width = "800" height = "531" alt = "Correctly Using Supports"/>
+<div class = "caption">Boys using correctly the Supports for Coping Saw Work detailed in Plate 2.</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="SUPPORT_TO_BE_HELD_IN_VISE" id="SUPPORT_TO_BE_HELD_IN_VISE">SUPPORT TO BE HELD IN VISE.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>In making this support the following method should be followed:</p>
+
+<p>The back piece is first made 7/8" &times; 6-3/4" &times; 20". The top is made 7/8" &times;
+6-3/4 &times; 12" and the brace 7/8" &times; 3" &times; 8-1/2". This brace tapers to a
+point at the lower end.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span><br /></p>
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Holding"><img src="images/i_034m.jpg" width = "800" height = "484" alt = "Coping Saw Support"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 2.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Two small cleats are 7/8" &times; 1-1/4" &times; 6-3/4" and are attached to the
+upright piece 1-7/8" up from the bottom edge. This allows the support to
+set firmly in the vise. Measure in from one end of the top piece 5" and
+have this point come half way between the sides. At this point a hole is
+carefully bored with a 3/4" bit. On this same end measure in from each
+edge 2-1/4". From these points draw lines tangent to the edges of the
+circle, as shown. Cut out this V-shaped notch.</p>
+
+<p>Bore all holes shown on the drawing with a bit that will allow using
+1-1/4" or 1-1/2". No. 8 flat-head screws. Have all surfaces sanded
+smoothly and assemble with glue and screws.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="SUPPORT_FOR_TABLE_USE" id="SUPPORT_FOR_TABLE_USE">SUPPORT FOR TABLE USE.</a></h2>
+
+<p>For the support shown in Fig. B, <a href="#Holding">Plate 2</a>, we make the upright 7/8" &times;
+6-3/4" &times; 8-7/8". The top is cut 7/8" &times; 6-3/4" &times; 12" and the base 7/8" &times;
+5" &times; 6-3/4" and the upright brace 7/8" &times; 3" &times; 8". The top has the same
+V-shaped notch cut in it as the other form of support. Bore all
+necessary holes, sandpaper and assemble. The clamp shown in the sketch
+answers the purpose very nicely and may be purchased for a small sum at
+any hardware store.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="THE_BENCH_HOOK" id="THE_BENCH_HOOK">THE BENCH HOOK.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>The bench hook is a very useful article to have about the work bench. It
+is made of hard wood, preferably maple. The drawing is shown in <a href = "#Hook">Plate
+3</a>. The main piece is made 7/8" &times; 6" &times; 12". Two cross cleats are made,
+one being 7/8" &times; 1-1/2" &times; 6" and the other 7/8" &times; 1-1/2" &times; 5". Holes are
+bored and countersunk at the places shown in the drawing. Great care
+must be taken in cutting these three pieces of wood to see that every
+edge is square and true. One of the cleats is attached on one side of
+the board even with the end, while the other is placed on the other side
+on the opposite end. These are held in place with glue and 1-1/4" No. 8
+flat-head screws. By referring to the drawing and the sketch the idea
+may be readily seen. It will be noticed that the short cleat has its end
+even with the left-hand edge, thus leaving a space of an inch at the
+right. When used with this side up it is for the purpose of sawing off
+small pieces of wood with the back saw, and when used with the other
+side up, on which the long cleat is attached, it is for the purpose of
+planing the end of a piece of wood across the grain.</p>
+
+
+<p>If a piece of wood is set up in a vise for end planing and the planing
+is done across the grain, the fibers on the further edge have no support
+but break away, as shown in Fig. C, Plate 3. In using the bench-hook the
+wood lies flat on the board and fits tight against the long cleat, and
+the plane is laid flat on its side and pushed back and forth. (Plate 3,
+Fig. A.)</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Hook"><img src="images/i_037m.jpg" width = "800" height = "490" alt = "Bench Hook"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 3.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>It can be readily seen that supported as it now is, the piece of wood
+being planed will not splinter or break on its further edge. Pains must
+be taken, however, to keep the plane flat on its side, not raising it on
+its edge at all, for by so doing the resulting planed edge will not be
+square. This bench-hook may be made quite easily by the beginner and
+besides being a good problem, is a very helpful addition to the tool
+outfit. It works very well when planing wood not over six or seven
+inches wide. Wood wider than this should be planed as follows: Place the
+piece of wood upright in the vise with the end grain uppermost, and
+plane about three-quarters of the way across the edge. Then turn the
+piece and plane the remaining part back in the opposite direction. By so
+doing the end of the wood will not be split.</p>
+
+<p>Figures A and B, <a href = "#Hook">Plate 3</a>, show the operation of the bench-hook for both
+sawing and planing.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="SIMPLE_TOOL_SHARPENING" id="SIMPLE_TOOL_SHARPENING">SIMPLE TOOL SHARPENING.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>In order to do good, clean-cut, accurate work it is very necessary that
+all cutting tools be kept sharp. And it is important that every boy who
+undertakes toy making have an elementary knowledge of the subject,
+especially an understanding of how to properly sharpen the knife, the
+chisel and the plane blade.</p>
+
+<p>If the tool is very dull, with nicks in the cutting edge, it should be
+ground first on the grindstone. It is quite important that the blade be
+held at the proper angle, about 25 degrees on the stone. A suitable tool
+holder, such as is shown in the illustration on Page <a href = "#Page_26">26</a>, is a very
+useful article to have in the tool equipment. The tool is held in place,
+bevel side down, by thumbscrews, and projects beyond the holder a little
+over half an inch.</p>
+
+<p>The grindstone should be thoroughly wet to prevent heating the tool and
+also to insure the washing away of the fine particles of steel from the
+surface of the stone.</p>
+
+<p>The round shape of the stone causes the bevel of the tool to be concave
+if held steadily in one position, as shown in Fig. A, Plate 4. Fig. B
+shows the incorrect result if the blade is not held evenly on the stone.
+It can be readily seen that the latter result will not make a very sharp
+cutting edge.</p>
+
+<p>Care should be taken when grinding not to round the corners of the tool.</p>
+
+<p>The theory of the cutting edge of the tool is the same as that of the
+wedge; the thinner the wedge the easier it is to drive it. However, the
+wedge, as well as the tool, must be thick enough to stand the strain of
+being driven into the wood, or the material which is to be split or cut.
+Too long and thin a bevel, while sharp at first, soon loses its edge
+through usage, while too blunt an edge makes the tool unsatisfactory to
+work with.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Tool_Sharpen"><img src="images/i_040m.jpg" width = "800" height = "490" alt = "Tool Sharpening"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 4.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The grindstone leaves the tool edge rough, or with a wire edge, as it is
+called. This roughness is removed on the oil stone. One or two drops of
+thin stone oil should be placed on the stone and the tool placed bevel
+side flat on the surface of the stone. Work with a circular motion,
+bearing on the tool with uniform pressure. Turn the blade over, bevel
+side up, seeing that the blade lies perfectly flat on the stone. Work
+with a similar motion. Repeat these operations until the blade is as
+sharp as desired. Wipe the oil from the tool and test by drawing the
+blade lightly across the thumb. If the blade clings to the skin it will
+be found sharp enough.</p>
+
+<p>Fig. C, on <a href = "#Tool_Sharpen">Plate 4</a>, shows the correct and incorrect methods of
+oil-stoning the tool blade. Always wipe the stone dry after using, as
+the oil will dry and gum up the grinding surface if not kept clean.</p>
+
+<p>Tool grinding is an important and rather difficult operation at first
+and skill comes only with continued practice.</p>
+
+<p>In sharpening a knife-blade on an oilstone care should be taken to keep
+the blade nearly flat on the stone in order to get a thin, sharp edge.
+The knife should be sharpened first on one side and then on the other,
+until the desired edge is obtained.</p>
+
+<p>Fig. D, <a href = "#Tool_Sharpen">Plate 4</a>, shows the right and wrong methods of holding the knife
+blade on the stone. Figures E and F show the results of careless
+sharpening. Fig. G is sharpened correctly.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Tool_Holder"><img src="images/i_042m.jpg" width = "617" height = "600" alt = "Grinding Tool Holder"/>
+<div class = "caption">Grinding Tool on Grindstone using Tool Holder.</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="COPING_SAW_WORK" id="COPING_SAW_WORK">COPING SAW WORK.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>The following plates of birds and animals (<a href = "#Pelican">Plates 6</a> to <a href = "#Duck_Dippy">17</a>) are
+especially interesting to the beginner and are excellent for the novice
+to prove and improve his skill with the coping saw.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Wood from 1/4" to 1/2" in thickness is best for this type of toy, 3/8"
+being a good medium thickness to use. Pulp board, such as Beaver board,
+is also very good, as there is no grain and, therefore, little liability
+of splitting. Pulp board saws very easily and takes paint nicely.</p>
+
+<p>All of these toys are mounted on a wood base, made of 1/2" wood, of a
+size shown on the various drawings. The animal is attached to the base
+with glue and 1-1/4" brads.</p>
+
+<p>Wheels can be made from a round stick (called a dowel) an inch in
+diameter by carefully sawing off pieces 3/8" thick.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are bored at the middle point of these wheels large enough to
+allow them to turn easily on a 1" No. 6 round-head blue screw. Washers
+should be placed on the screws on both sides of the wheels.</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#Pelican">Plate 6</a> gives a general idea of the toy base.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="DOWEL_STICKS" id="DOWEL_STICKS">DOWEL STICKS.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>Dowel sticks are very useful to the toy maker and an assortment of
+various sizes should be kept on hand. They are very handy in many ways
+in toy making and furniture construction. They come in sizes from 1/4"
+to 1" in diameter or larger, in 30" lengths, and cost from two to three
+cents apiece.</p>
+
+<p>Dowel sticks are usually carried in stock by local hardware men or may
+be obtained from manufacturers of mill work.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="PICTURE_PUZZLE_CONSTRUCTION" id="PICTURE_PUZZLE_CONSTRUCTION">PICTURE PUZZLE CONSTRUCTION.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>The problem illustrated in <a href = "#Puzzle1">Plate 5</a> is very interesting and especially
+good for the beginner.</p>
+
+<p>First, select a picture of the size desired from a calendar or discarded
+magazine. Colored pictures are the best.</p>
+
+<p>Prepare a piece of 1/4" soft wood, such as bass or pine, and glue the
+picture to the surface, rolling and pressing out air bubbles and
+smoothing away all wrinkles. Place a weight on the picture and allow it
+to dry overnight.</p>
+
+<p>Holding the coping saw so that the blade is straight up and down, or in
+other words, at right angles with the surface of the work, saw out
+irregular shaped pieces similar to those shown in the accompanying
+drawing.</p>
+
+<p>If these pieces are placed in a neat Christmas box, such as may be
+purchased at the five-and-ten-cent store, it will make a very pleasing
+Christmas gift.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Puzzle1"><img src="images/i_045m.jpg" width = "800" height = "485" alt = "Picture Puzzle"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 5.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Pelican"><img src="images/i_046m.jpg" width = "800" height = "481" alt = "Pelican"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 6.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Duck"><img src="images/i_047m.jpg" width = "800" height = "485" alt = "Duck"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 7.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Goose"><img src="images/i_048m.jpg" width = "800" height = "490" alt = "Goose"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 8.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Rhinoceros"><img src="images/i_049m.jpg" width = "800" height = "488" alt = "Rhinoceros"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 9.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Elephant"><img src="images/i_050m.jpg" width = "800" height = "484" alt = "Elephant"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 10.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Rabbit"><img src="images/i_051m.jpg" width = "365" height = "600" alt = "Rabbit"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 11.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Lamb"><img src="images/i_052m.jpg" width = "800" height = "486" alt = "Lamb"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 12.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Goat"><img src="images/i_053m.jpg" width = "800" height = "488" alt = "Goat"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 13.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Rooster"><img src="images/i_054m.jpg" width = "800" height = "492" alt = "Rooster"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 14.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Camel"><img src="images/i_055m.jpg" width = "800" height = "481" alt = "Camel"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 15.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span><br /></p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id ="Enlarge"><img src="images/i_056m.jpg" width = "800" height = "490" alt = "Enlarging Figures"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 16.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="METHOD_OF_ENLARGING_FIGURES" id="METHOD_OF_ENLARGING_FIGURES">METHOD OF ENLARGING FIGURES.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>If a figure shown in a book or in any picture is to be enlarged the
+following method is very simple:</p>
+
+<p>Enclose the figure in a rectangle and divide it in quarter inch squares,
+like the drawing of the duck in <a href = "#Enlarge">Plate 16</a>.</p>
+
+<p>If the drawing is to be enlarged twice the original size, draw a
+rectangle on a piece of paper or cardboard twice as large as the
+picture. Divide it into exactly the same number of squares, which will
+now be twice as large as before, or one-half inch on a side. Letter and
+number all parts to agree.</p>
+
+<p>Start now and sketch the enlarged figure, having the lines pass through
+the same places in the squares of the large rectangle as in the small.</p>
+
+<p>With a little patience it will be surprising how accurate a copy can be
+made.</p>
+
+<p>A picture may be reduced by the same method.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="DIPPY_DUCK" id="DIPPY_DUCK">DIPPY DUCK.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This toy is larger than the regular cut-out figure and has added action
+by the placing of the inner piece off-center on the larger wheel, thus
+causing the duck to move up and down as the toy is pulled along on the
+floor.</p>
+
+<p>As shown in the drawing (<a href = "#Duck_Dippy">Plate 17</a>), the base is made of four separate
+pieces, because it is easier to construct it this way than to cut out
+the slot from a solid piece. The wood used is 7/8" pine, the two long
+pieces being 1-1/2" wide by 15" long and the two end pieces 1-1/4" wide
+by 2-1/2" long. These are glued and chamfered. A small chamfer is planed
+around the top edge, as shown.</p>
+
+<p>The small base piece on which the duck rests is made 7/8" &times; 1" &times; 7-1/2".
+A hole is bored 2" from one end with a 1/2" bit and the slot is sawed
+out. The opposite end is rounded.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored in the end where the slot is cut 3/8" from the end, of a
+size that will take a piece of 16-penny nail tightly. The nail is cut
+one inch long and serves as an axle for the large wheel. A similar hole
+is bored, 3/8" from the other end, with a larger drill so that the nail
+used at this point will be smaller than the hole, allowing the base
+piece to move easily upon it.</p>
+
+<p>The large wheel is made by cutting a piece from a curtain rod 2-1/4" in
+diameter or by turning down a piece to this diameter on the lathe. This
+wheel is cut 3/8" thick. The four main wheels are 1-3/4" in diameter and
+3/8" thick. These wheels have a small hole bored exactly in their
+center, of a size large enough to allow a shingle, or a screw, nail to
+turn easily within.</p>
+
+<p>The wheels are attached two inches from the ends and the nails are
+driven in straight so as to insure the wheels turning evenly. A screw
+eye is placed at the front end, as shown, to which is attached a string
+to pull it by.</p>
+
+<p>All parts should be nicely sanded before assembling and then given two
+coats of paint. A suggested color scheme is given on the drawing.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Duck_Dippy"><img src="images/i_059m.jpg" width = "800" height = "488" alt = "Dippy Duck"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 17.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><br /><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span></p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_060m.jpg" width = "800" height = "486" alt = "Monitor"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 18.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="THE_MONITOR" id="THE_MONITOR">THE MONITOR.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This design is what might be called an amphibious toy, which means one
+that is at home both on the land and water.</p>
+
+<p>The base, or hull, is made from a piece of 1/2" board, 5-1/4" wide and
+14" long. At a point on the long edges, 4-1/2" from the ends, a center
+is taken with a compass, or pair of dividers, set at 5-1/4" radius, as
+shown in the drawing. Strike all of these curves and cut to the line
+with a coping saw and finish smooth.</p>
+
+<p>The main turret and the two smaller blocks are either turned on a lathe
+or cut from a cylindrical piece of wood. If care is used the pieces can
+also be cut with a turning saw from a piece of wood of the required
+thickness. The two smaller pieces are cut from a piece of 7/8" board and
+are 1-3/4" in diameter and are attached with 1" brads and glue, 1-3/4"
+from each end.</p>
+
+<p>For the main turret, which is to be movable, a hole is bored in the hull
+exactly in the middle. In boring, a bit a little larger than the size of
+a 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screw is used, in order that the screw shank
+will move easily. This hole is countersunk on the under side. A smaller
+hole is started on the under side of the turret to receive the screw
+and, when the pieces are assembled, the screw is not screwed up tight,
+but enough play is left so that the turret will revolve fairly easily.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_062m.jpg" width = "734" height = "600" alt = "Monitor and Merrimac"/>
+<div class = "caption">The Monitor and the Merrimac and Animal Toys.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The two "guns" may be cut from 5/8" dowels, 2-3/8" long, or may be
+turned on a lathe. Two holes are bored, on opposite sides of the turret,
+3/8" deep, to receive the guns which are glued in.</p>
+
+<p>The two pieces to which the wheels are attached are made 1/2" &times; 3/4" &times;
+4", and are secured in place 4" from bow and stern with shingle nails
+and glue.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_063m.jpg" width = "800" height = "485" alt = "Merrimac"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 19.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The four wheels are cut from 1" dowels, 7/8" thick.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored exactly in the middle of each wheel a little larger than
+the wire of a shingle nail, which is used to hold them in place on the
+base.</p>
+
+<p>A small piece of 1/4" dowel about 2-1/4" long, is inserted in a hole,
+bored with a 1/4" bit, 3/4" from the bow. This is the flagstaff, and
+just in front of this is placed a small screw eye to attach the string
+for pulling the toy. Give the entire toy two coats of black paint.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="THE_MERRIMAC" id="THE_MERRIMAC">THE MERRIMAC.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>The Confederate Ironclad is a little harder to make than the Monitor,
+but it is well within the ability of a sixth grade boy.</p>
+
+<p>The hull is made 1/2" &times; 5-1/4" &times; 14", and is sawed to a point at the bow
+and stern, sloping from the center point of both ends to points 3-1/4"
+from either end.</p>
+
+<p>The upper works are made from a block of wood 1-3/4" thick, 4-1/2" wide
+and 7-1/2" long. This is beveled so that the top is 3-1/4" &times; 6-1/4".</p>
+
+<p>The two smokestacks are made from pieces of 3/4" dowel, cut 3-1/4" long
+and inserted in holes bored 1/2" deep, 1" from the sides of the upper
+deck and 3-1/8" from the ends. These are held in place with glue.</p>
+
+<p>The flagstaff is cut from a piece of 1/4" dowel, 2-3/8" long, inserted
+in a hole, bored with a 1/4" bit, 3/4" from the bow.</p>
+
+<p>Just in front of this, 1/4" from the end, is placed a small screw-eye to
+which a string may be attached.</p>
+
+<p>The ten "guns" are made from 1/2" dowels, cut 1" long, and at an angle
+so that the lower side is 7/8" long. This is so that they will fit
+against the sloping sides of the turret.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored from end to end of each gun, in their centers, so that a
+1-1/2" finish nail will fit in nicely.</p>
+
+<p>The guns are held in place with these nails and with glue at the points
+indicated on the drawing.</p>
+
+<p>The upper works and hull are held together with 1" brads and glue, in
+such a manner that the gun turret is equally distant from the ends and
+sides of the hull.</p>
+
+<p>The pieces which hold the wheels are made 1/2" &times; 3/4" &times; 4" and are
+nailed and glued in place, 3-1/2" from bow and stern.</p>
+
+<p>The wheels are 3/8" thick, cut from 1" dowels, and are held by shingle
+nails driven into the axle in such a way that they will turn freely.</p>
+
+<p>The holes for the nails, in the wheels, are bored exactly in their
+centers with a bit a little larger than the nail to be used.</p>
+
+<p>After sanding and assembling give the boat two coats of black or battle
+ship gray paint.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span></p>
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Snow_Shovel"><img src="images/i_066m.jpg" width = "800" height = "485" alt = "Snow Shovel"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 20.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="CHILDS_SNOW_SHOVEL" id="CHILDS_SNOW_SHOVEL">CHILD'S SNOW SHOVEL.</a></h2>
+
+<p>This problem is simple and of interest to young people during early
+winter. (<a href = "#Snow_Shovel">Plate 20</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>The handle may be made square in section first and then gradually
+rounded with a plane and then filed and sanded; or a discarded handle
+from some other implement may be utilized. The handle should be 28"
+long, and a hole should be bored and a rivet inserted 11-5/8" from one
+end. This is to reinforce the handle where the saw cut comes. This cut
+is made directly along the center of the handle and stops 11" from the
+end. If this cut is not made exactly in the center, the spreading, when
+the grip is inserted, will be unequal, and the shovel will not be in
+balance.</p>
+
+<p>The two ends of the shovel are rounded, as indicated, and the lower end
+is cut at an angle to fit the surface of the shovel.</p>
+
+<p>The grip should be cut from a 1" dowel and then cut to fit the angle
+formed by the spreading sides of the shovel.</p>
+
+<p>This is held in place by 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screws with washers, as
+indicated.</p>
+
+<p>The broad part of the shovel is cut from one piece, if possible, 1/2" &times;
+8" &times; 10-1/2", and the front end cut an angle which is reinforced with a
+piece of zinc, 3-1/4" &times; 8", bent over and held by rivets and washers, as
+shown.</p>
+
+<p>The brace under the handle is cut 3/4" &times; 1-5/8" &times; 8" and then planed
+from an upper edge to within an inch of the opposite lower edge and
+secured in place with screws. The handle is attached to the blade with
+rivets and washers, as shown on the drawing.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="THE_PERISCOPE" id="THE_PERISCOPE">THE PERISCOPE.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This is an interesting problem and demonstrates a scientific principle.</p>
+
+<p>For a periscope of the size shown in the drawing (<a href = "#Periscope">Plate 21</a>), two pieces
+of looking glass must be first cut 2-1/4" &times; 2-7/8".</p>
+
+<p>Pieces A are cut 3/8" &times; 2" &times; 4-1/4"; pieces B are 3/8" &times; 2-3/4" &times;
+4-1/4"; pieces C, 3/8" &times; 1-7/8" &times; 2-3/4"; pieces D, 3/8" &times; 2" &times; 17-1/4";
+pieces E, 3/8" &times; 2-3/4" &times; 18-7/8"; and pieces F, 3/8" &times; 2-3/4" &times;
+18-7/8".</p>
+
+<p>Two grooves 1/8" deep, and of a width to receive the thickness of the
+glass used, should be cut at an angle of 45 degrees, where indicated on
+the drawing. This groove is cut in pieces A only.</p>
+
+<p>All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1 sandpaper and finished
+with No. 0. Assemble, as shown on the drawing, using glue and 1" brads.</p>
+
+<p>The final finish may be stain or paint. Whatever finish is used should
+be of a dark color as best suited for a periscope.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Periscope"><img src="images/i_069m.jpg" width = "800" height = "482" alt = "Periscope"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 21.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_070m.jpg" width = "445" height = "600" alt = "Periscope in Use"/>
+<div class = "caption">The Periscope in Use.</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<div>
+<h2><a name="DOLLS_IRONING_BOARD_A" id="DOLLS_IRONING_BOARD_A">DOLL'S IRONING BOARD.</a><br />
+<small>(Size A.)</small></h2>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>This problem has proven very popular in toy-making classes and has been
+one of the best sellers at toy sales. It folds up compactly and is
+strong and serviceable.</p>
+
+<p>Plates <a href = "#Ironing_Board_A">22</a>, <a href = "#Ironing_Board_B">23</a> and <a href = "#Ironing_Board_C">24</a> show the ironing board in three sizes for children
+of varying ages.</p>
+
+<p><a href = "#Ironing_Board_A">Plate 22</a> is for children of about three years of age, and the material
+is prepared as follows:</p>
+
+<p>The top is first made of 1/2" lumber and is 6" wide and 20" long. Set
+the dividers with a 3" radius and strike an arc just touching the end
+and two sides of the board. Do the same on the other end, using a 2-1/2"
+radius.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_071m.jpg" width = "800" height = "584" alt = "Ironing Boards"/>
+<div class = "caption">The Three Types of Ironing Boards.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Connect these arcs with straight lines and saw and plane carefully just
+to the lines all around. The turning saw may be used on the ends.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Ironing_Board_A"><img src="images/i_072m.jpg" width = "800" height = "481" alt = "Ironing Board A"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 22.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Slightly round the upper edge of the surface which is to be uppermost.</p>
+
+<p>The legs are next cut to size, the two longer ones being 1/2" &times; 1" &times; 19"
+and the two shorter ones 1/2" &times; 1" &times; 18-3/4".</p>
+
+<p>One end of each is rounded by striking an arc with a 1-1/2" radius, at
+the extreme end. The other ends of the legs are cut off at an angle, as
+shown in the drawing.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are bored in the rounded ends of the long legs, 1/2" from the ends
+with a No. 3 bit. Another hole of similar size is bored 8-1/4" from the
+one previously bored. These holes are all 1/2" from the edges.</p>
+
+<p>On the short legs the only holes necessary are bored 8-1/4" from the
+rounded end.</p>
+
+<p>The long legs are attached by screws to a cleat which itself is screwed
+to the underside of the top of the board, as shown. This cleat is 7/8" &times;
+1-1/8" &times; 4-1/2" and is glued and held to the top by 1-1/4" flat-head
+screws, two of them being sufficient. These are countersunk.</p>
+
+<p>The separating piece at the other end of the long legs is 1/2" &times; 1" &times;
+4-9/16" and is held in place by 1-1/4" brads and glue. It is attached 2"
+from the ends.</p>
+
+<p>Two separating pieces are next made for the short legs, 1/2" &times; 1" &times;
+3-1/2", and these are attached in the same manner as the piece between
+the long legs.</p>
+
+<p>A cleat 7/8" &times; 1" &times; 3-7/16" is attached with glue and 1-1/2" flat-head
+screws, 2" from the small end of the board. This holds the short legs in
+position.</p>
+
+<p>All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper before
+being assembled. No further finish is necessary.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<div>
+<h2><a name="DOLLS_IRONING_BOARD_B" id="DOLLS_IRONING_BOARD_B">DOLL'S IRONING BOARD.</a><br />
+<small>(Size B.)</small></h2>
+</div>
+
+<p>The method of constructing this board is identical with the method
+suggested for board A. The difference is in the size of the pieces.
+(<a href = "#Ironing_Board_B">Plate 23</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>This type of ironing board is suitable for a child from four to six
+years of age.</p>
+
+<p>The top is 5/8" thick, 7-3/4" wide and 24-1/2" long.</p>
+
+<p>The curved ends are struck with the dividers in the same way as in the
+preceding problem.</p>
+
+<p>The legs are next cut to dimension, the longer ones being 9/16" &times; 1-1/8"
+&times; 24", and the shorter 9/16" &times; 1-1/8" &times; 22-1/2".</p>
+
+<p>One end of each leg is rounded by setting the dividers at 9/16" and
+cutting to the line and cutting the opposite ends at an angle, as shown
+in the drawing.</p>
+
+<p>Bore holes with a No. 3 bit in the rounded ends of the long legs, 5/8"
+from the ends and a similar hole is bored 9-1/2" from the hole
+previously bored. These holes are all 9/16" in from the edges.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Ironing_Board_B"><img src="images/i_075m.jpg" width = "800" height = "480" alt = "Ironing Board B"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 23.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>On the short legs the only holes bored are made with the same bit,
+9-3/8" from the rounded ends.</p>
+
+<p>The long legs are attached to a cleat by 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head blue
+screws, with washers under both the heads of the screws and between the
+screws and the cleat.</p>
+
+<p>The cleat is 7/8" &times; 1-1/8" &times; 5-7/8" and is glued and screwed to the
+under side of the top with 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screws.</p>
+
+<p>These are countersunk.</p>
+
+<p>The separating piece at the other end of the long legs is 3/8" &times; 1-1/8"
+&times; 5-15/16" and is held in place by 1-1/4" brads and glue, and is
+attached 3" from the end.</p>
+
+<p>Two separating pieces are next made for the short legs, 3/8" &times; 1-1/8" &times;
+4-1/2", and these are attached in the same way as the piece between the
+longer legs.</p>
+
+<p>A cleat 7/8" &times; 1-1/4" &times; 4-7/16" is attached with glue and 1-3/4"
+flat-head screws, 4" from the small end of the board. This holds the
+short legs in position. Refer to the detail on the drawing of the size A
+ironing board (<a href = "#Ironing_Board_A">Plate 22</a>) for the method of making the button which holds
+the board rigid.</p>
+
+<p>All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper before
+being assembled.</p>
+
+<p>No further finish is necessary.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<div>
+<h2><a name="DOLLS_IRONING_BOARD_C" id="DOLLS_IRONING_BOARD_C">DOLL'S IRONING BOARD.</a><br />
+<small>(Size C.)</small></h2>
+</div>
+
+<p>The method of constructing this size board is similar to the other two
+types. (<a href = "#Ironing_Board_C">Plate 24</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>This size board is suitable for children from six to eight years of age.</p>
+
+<p>The top is made 3/4" thick, 9" wide and 30" long. The dividers are set
+with a 4-1/2" radius and an arc is struck to touch the end and two sides
+of the board. A similar arc is struck at the opposite end with a 3-1/2"
+radius.</p>
+
+<p>These arcs are connected with a straight line, and the outline is cut
+with a saw and finally planed to the lines. The curved ends can be cut
+with a turning saw and finished with a chisel and file.</p>
+
+<p>The upper edges are slightly rounded with a file and sandpaper.</p>
+
+<p>The legs are next cut to size, two being 3/4" &times; 1-1/4" &times; 27-7/8", and
+the other two 3/4" &times; 1-1/4" &times; 29".</p>
+
+<p>One end of each is rounded by striking an arc with a 5/8" radius, at the
+extreme end. The other ends of the legs are cut at an angle, as shown in
+the drawing.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are bored in the rounded end of the short legs, 5/8" from the
+ends, of a size that will take a 1-3/4" No. 10 round-head blue screw.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Ironing_Board_C"><img src="images/i_078m.jpg" width = "800" height = "488" alt = "Ironing Board C"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 24.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Another hole of similar size is bored 11" from this. These holes are all
+5/8" from the edges.</p>
+
+<p>On the other two legs the only two holes necessary are bored 12-1/2"
+from the rounded ends.</p>
+
+<p>The shorter legs are attached by screws to a cleat which itself is
+screwed to the underside of the board, 4-1/2" from the large end. This
+cleat is 1" &times; 1-1/4" &times; 6-3/4" and is held in place with glue and 1-3/4"
+flat-head screws, countersunk. Two of these screws are sufficient.</p>
+
+<p>The separating piece at the other end of the legs is 3/4" &times; 1-1/4" &times;
+6-13/16", and is held in place by 1-1/2" brads and glue, and is attached
+3-1/2" from the ends.</p>
+
+<p>Two separating pieces are next made for the long legs, 3/4" &times; 1-1/4" &times;
+5-1/4", and these are attached in the same manner as the pieces between
+the other set of legs.</p>
+
+<p>A cleat 1-1/8" &times; 1-3/8" &times; 5-3/16" is attached with glue and 2" flat-head
+screws, 5-1/2" from the small end of the board. This holds the short
+legs in position.</p>
+
+<p>The wood button, shown on the drawing for the Size A ironing board
+(<a href = "#Ironing_Board_A">Plate 22</a>), is attached to this cleat and prevents the board from
+collapsing.</p>
+
+<p>All pieces should be thoroughly sandpapered with No. 1/2 sandpaper
+before being assembled.</p>
+
+<p>No further finish is necessary.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="DOLLS_CLOTHES_RACK" id="DOLLS_CLOTHES_RACK">DOLL'S CLOTHES RACK.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This folding clothes rack is an interesting toy and requires some skill
+in assembling. (<a href = "#Clothes_Rack">Plate 25</a>.)</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_080m.jpg" width = "776" height = "600" alt = "Playing House"/>
+<div class = "caption">Playing House is real fun with such a dolls' clothes
+rack, ironing board, wash bench, table and stepladder.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The four legs are cut 3/8" &times; 3/4" &times; 13" and each end is rounded by first
+striking semicircles on the ends, using a 3/8" radius, and then
+finishing with a chisel carefully to the line.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are bored in these legs with a 1/4" bit in the following places:
+3/8" from the top, 4-7/8" beyond this, 3-1/4" beyond this, and 1-3/4"
+beyond this. Extreme care must be taken not to split the wood. Bore
+through from one side until the spur of the bit just starts to come
+through, then remove the bit and bore back from the other side.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Clothes_Rack"><img src="images/i_081m.jpg" width = "800" height = "487" alt = "Clothes Rack"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 25.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Next cut the four top pieces to size, two being 3/8" &times; 3/4" &times; 6" and two
+3/8" &times; 3/4" &times; 7". These are also rounded on both ends. Holes are bored
+3/8" from each end of all of these and also half way between their ends,
+as shown in <a href = "#Clothes_Rack">Plate 25</a>.</p>
+
+<p>These pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper.</p>
+
+<p>The cross pieces are cut from 1/4" dowels as follows: Four pieces,
+8-3/4" long; six pieces, 8" long; and one piece, 7-1/4" long.</p>
+
+<p>The long dowel sticks are the ones that go at points a, b, c and d,
+Plate 25, on the outside legs. The 8" dowels go at points e, f, g, h, i,
+and j. The single short dowel goes at point k.</p>
+
+<p>Examine the drawing carefully and see that the four top pieces are
+placed on the correct dowels. Hold all dowels, which are not at movable
+points, with 3/4" brads.</p>
+
+<p>Be sure every piece is in its proper position before driving in the
+brads and then be positive that no brad is being driven at a point where
+the dowel must be free to move in the hole. It is always best to
+assemble the rack completely and by closing and opening it learn clearly
+just where the brads are to be placed.</p>
+
+<p>No further finish is necessary.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CHILDS_WASH_BENCH" id="CHILDS_WASH_BENCH">CHILD'S WASH BENCH.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This bench may be made in various sizes to fit different heights of
+children. The top consists of three slats and for the size bench shown
+in <a href = "#Wash_Bench">Plate 26</a>, the slats are made 3/8" &times; 1-3/4" &times; 18". These slats have
+screw holes bored 2-3/8" from the ends and 3/8" from the edges, as
+shown. These are countersunk to receive 1" No. 6 flat-head screws.</p>
+
+<p>Two braces are made 3/4" &times; 1/4" &times; 8". These are to support the slats.
+One inch from one end of these braces, and 5/8" from the edges, a hole
+is bored with a 3/8" bit. The same distance from the other end a similar
+hole is bored and a piece is sawed out, as shown in the drawing, to
+receive and support the dowel rod.</p>
+
+<p>The legs of the bench are cut 3/8" &times; 1" &times; 12-3/4". One-half inch from
+one end a hole is bored with a 3/8" bit. One and one-half inches from
+the other end a similar hole is bored and 7" from the same end the third
+hole is bored, making three in each leg. Care must be taken in boring
+these holes not to split the work as the bit goes through. Bore through
+on one side until the spur of the bit just starts through on the
+opposite side. Remove the bit and place the spur point in the small hole
+made by the spur and bore back in the opposite direction.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Wash_Bench"><img src="images/i_084m.jpg" width = "800" height = "486" alt = "Wash Bench"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 26.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The two cross slats forming the braces are 3/8" &times; 3/4" &times; 13". A center
+lap joint is made by cutting through half way on both slats at such an
+angle as will cause the outer edge of the slats to be about five inches
+apart. The ends of the slats should be sawed at such an angle as will
+make them flush with the sides of the legs and small holes drilled and
+countersunk so that they may be attached with 3/4" No. 4 flat-head
+screws.</p>
+
+<p>Two 3/8" dowel rods should next be cut, one being 12-1/2" long and the
+other 14" long.</p>
+
+<p>These dowels should be held in place in the legs by 3/4" brads, care
+being taken not to nail where there is to be a moving joint.</p>
+
+<p>All pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper.</p>
+
+<p>No other finish is necessary.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CHILDS_STEP_LADDER" id="CHILDS_STEP_LADDER">CHILD'S STEP LADDER.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This step ladder may be made in various sizes, the one shown here being
+suitable for children up to seven or eight years of age. (<a href = "#Ladder">Plate 27</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>The two front legs should be cut first, 5/8" &times; 2-1/4" &times; 21". It will be
+noticed that the two ends are cut off at an angle. This angle is
+obtained by measuring back on one side 1" and drawing to this point from
+the opposite corner. Make all of these angles equal and if possible cut
+them in a miter-box.</p>
+
+<p>The two rear legs, or braces, are cut 5/8" &times; 1-1/8" &times; 17-3/4", and the
+two ends are rounded. The semicircle is marked out by setting the
+dividers, or a compass, at a 9/16" radius and striking the curve tangent
+to the sides and ends of the legs.</p>
+
+<p>Two holes are bored with a No. 8 bit, 5/16" from one end of the rear
+legs and 1-1/4" from the other end, as indicated, care being taken not
+to split the wood.</p>
+
+<p>The top step is next made 5/8" &times; 5-1/4" &times; 9-3/4", and the top edges
+slightly rounded.</p>
+
+<p>Two holes are bored with a small drill, 1-1/2" from the ends of this
+step and 1" from the rear and front edges of both ends. These should be
+countersunk. Later, when assembled, this top is screwed to the braces
+with 1" No. 6 flat-head screws, as shown in the front view. (<a href = "#Ladder">Plate 27</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>Two braces are next made 5/8" &times; 2" &times; 5-1/4", and are cut off at either
+end at the same angle as were the ends of the front legs. These are
+attached to the inside of the legs, at the top, as shown in the side
+view, with four 1" No. 6 flat-head screws and glue. Care should be taken
+to get them just even with the front and top sides of the legs. Before
+the braces are attached a hole should be bored with a No. 8 bit 5/8"
+from the top edge and 1" from the left-hand edge to receive the dowel
+stick on which the rear leg swings.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Ladder"><img src="images/i_087m.jpg" width = "800" height = "488" alt = "Step Ladder"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 27.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>While boring this hole the end should be held with a clamp to prevent
+splitting.</p>
+
+<p>The two lower steps are next made. These are 5/8" thick and are cut 3"
+wide. The width is greater than is needed, and is provided that the
+steps may be planed even with the edges of the legs later. The steps are
+cut 8" in length.</p>
+
+<p>The next operation is cutting grooves for the steps to set into the
+legs, and this requires considerable care.</p>
+
+<p>The lower step is 5-3/4" from the lower end of the legs. This dimension
+is measured off on each leg, and a line is drawn parallel with the lower
+end of the leg. This may be done by either using a T bevel, set at the
+angle of the lower end of the legs, or the dimension, 5-3/4", may be
+measured up on both sides of the leg and a line drawn across.</p>
+
+<p>Next take the lower step and mark one end A and the other end B. Place
+the end A, of the lower step, evenly on this line and make a mark above
+the first line a little less than the thickness of the step. The groove
+is marked a little less than the thickness of the step so that, in case
+the saw cut is made a little wide, the step will not be likely to fit
+loosely.</p>
+
+<p>Square lines across both edges of the edge from the end of the lines
+previously drawn and measure down from the surface a distance of 1/4" on
+the edges. Draw a line through this point parallel to the edge of the
+leg.</p>
+
+<p>Next saw carefully on the lines, first drawn, down as far as this last
+line and cut the wood out with a half-inch chisel.</p>
+
+<p>If the step will not fit in the slot, plane a very slight amount from
+the surface of the step until it fits snugly into the groove.</p>
+
+<p>End B is fitted to the opposite leg in a similar way and the second step
+is placed in a like manner, 6-7/8" above the lower step.</p>
+
+<p>If the drawing is examined, as these directions for placing the steps
+are read, the explanation will be greatly simplified.</p>
+
+<p>The two narrow cross braces are next made, 3/8" &times; 5/8" &times; 15-1/2". These
+are crossed at their middle point in a middle-lap joint, a groove being
+cut half through each piece wide enough to insure a tight joint. These
+braces are attached to the rear legs, 2-1/2" from their lower ends, with
+3/4" No. 6 flat-head screws, the holes being previously bored and
+countersunk.</p>
+
+<p>Cut the ends of the braces even with the ends of the legs.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are bored with a small bit in the grooves in the legs, 1/2" in
+from the sides, as shown. These holes are for the round-head screws
+which hold the steps in place. The steps are held in the grooves of the
+legs with glue and 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Table_With_Drawer"><img src="images/i_090m.jpg" width = "800" height = "486" alt = "Doll's Table"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 28.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The dowel sticks are now cut 8-3/4" long from a 1/2" dowel and, after
+all pieces of wood are carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper, the step
+ladder is assembled.</p>
+
+<p>A 3/4" brad should be driven into the edge of the rear legs so that it
+will penetrate and hold the dowel in place.</p>
+
+<p>A piece of small chain should be fastened to each front and rear leg, as
+shown, of a length sufficient to have the front legs of the ladder set
+flat on the ground. Also take care that the two chains are even with
+each other and parallel with the ground. No further finish is required.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="DOLLS_TABLE_WITH_DRAWER" id="DOLLS_TABLE_WITH_DRAWER">DOLL'S TABLE WITH DRAWER.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>While this table may be made in various sizes, the one shown in the
+accompanying drawing has proven very popular.</p>
+
+<p>The four legs are first made 7/8" &times; 1-1/4" &times; 12". Measure down 3" from
+one end and taper the legs equally from this point to a width of 7/8" at
+the opposite ends, as shown.</p>
+
+<p>The two side rails are made 1/2" &times; 2-7/8" &times; 6-1/2". The two front rails
+above and below the drawer are cut 1/2" &times; 1/2" &times; 12".</p>
+
+<p>On the side and rear rails, centers for dowels are located 5/8" from
+the top and lower edges and half way between the sides. An inch brad is
+driven in a short distance at these points, and the head is cut off
+about 1/4" above the surface of the wood. These ends are now placed so
+that their upper edges are even with the top of the legs. Press down
+lightly on the rails and a mark will be made on the surface of the legs.</p>
+
+<p>Remove the brads and bore the dowel hole with a 1/4" bit, 1-1/4" deep.</p>
+
+<p>The two drawer rails are treated in the same manner and the holes are
+bored.</p>
+
+<p>The top will no doubt have to be made of two pieces of wood jointed and
+glued together, and reinforced with dowels.</p>
+
+<p>The finished dimensions are 3/8" &times; 12" &times; 19".</p>
+
+<p>Short blocks of wood are screwed to the rear and two side rails even
+with their tops, and screws are later put through these from their under
+side to hold the top in place. A 3/4" No. 6 screw is placed in the
+center of the upper drawer rail to assist in holding the top in place.
+(See <a href = "#Table_With_Drawer">Plate 28</a> for details of the method of attaching the top.)</p>
+
+<p>Two strips of wood 1/2" wide, and thick and long enough to fit tightly
+between the front and rear rails, are made to serve as drawer slides.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Similar strips of wood are glued to the inner part of the end rails to
+cause the drawer to run evenly. These strips are just thick enough to
+bring their surface even with the edge of the leg.</p>
+
+<p>All rails should be thoroughly sanded and then assembled with glue,
+screws, and brads as directed, the rails and legs being clamped for
+several hours to insure a tight fit.</p>
+
+<p>If the various parts of the table have been accurately made, the drawer
+should be now constructed to the dimensions called for in the drawing.
+If there has been any error in the making of the several pieces, of
+course the drawer must be made to fit the space in that individual
+table.</p>
+
+<p>The drawer front is 3/8" &times; 1-7/8" &times; 12". The sides are 1/4" &times; 1-7/8" &times;
+11-1/2". These dimensions may all have to be trimmed down somewhat to
+secure an easy sliding fit. The drawer construction is clearly shown in
+the sketch. Bottom pieces of 1/4" wood are cut to fit, and after
+sanding, all pieces are glued and bradded together.</p>
+
+<p>Handles of the size shown in the drawing may be turned on the lathe or
+made by hand, and placed as indicated.</p>
+
+<p>As this type of table is patterned after the ordinary kitchen table it
+may be left unfinished.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="COLONIAL_DOLLS_TABLE" id="COLONIAL_DOLLS_TABLE">COLONIAL DOLL'S TABLE.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This table, with the accompanying chairs shown in <a href = "#Colonial_Chair">Plate 30</a>, makes a very
+artistic and interesting problem in toy-making.</p>
+
+<p>The table and chairs work up very nicely if made of oak and stained a
+mission brown. They may also be made of soft wood and stained or
+painted. Directions for staining may be found in the front part of the
+book.</p>
+
+<p>The top (<a href = "#Colonial_Table">Plate 29</a>) is made 3/8" &times; 11" &times; 16" and, if a piece of wood 11"
+wide is not obtainable, two narrow pieces will have to be joined. (See
+method of joining wood on page <a href = "#Page_18">18</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>The four uprights are made 1" &times; 1" &times; 6-1/4", and the four cross pieces
+5/8" &times; 1" &times; 8".</p>
+
+<p>The ends of the cross pieces are cut at a bevel, as shown, and notches
+are cut 1-1/8" from each end, 1/8" deep, to receive the ends of the
+upright. Care must be taken to get a snug fit. It is better to have the
+notches a trifle too small than too large. If cut a little small, the
+uprights are easily made to fit the grooves by planing a slight amount
+from their edges.</p>
+
+<p>Four bottom pieces are made 1/4" &times; 1-1/4" &times; 1-1/4", to be attached to
+the lower cross piece, as shown, allowing 1/8" projection all around.
+They are fastened with 1/2" brads and glue. When attaching, see that the
+grain of the little square pieces runs the same as the cross pieces. On
+account of the thinness of the wood, holes may have to be bored for the
+brads. If no small drill is at hand a brad may be used as a drill.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Colonial_Table"><img src="images/i_095m.jpg" width = "800" height = "483" alt = "Colonial Table"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 29.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Holes are bored in the two upper cross pieces, 3/4" from their ends.
+These are countersunk to receive 3/4" No.6 flat-head screws, when
+assembling, and are to hold the top in place.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are likewise bored for the same size screws, 1-5/8" from each end
+of the four cross pieces, which brings the holes in the center of each
+notch. These holes are also countersunk.</p>
+
+<p>The long lower brace is made 5/16" &times; 2-1/2" &times; 12". When assembling, this
+piece is located as shown in the drawing and is held in place with glue
+and 1/2" brads.</p>
+
+<p>Sand all pieces carefully with No.1 sandpaper first and finish with No.
+0.</p>
+
+<p>If stain is to be used, it may be found easier to stain the pieces
+before assembling. Assemble as previously described, using glue where
+necessary and turning all screws up tightly. Apply final finish as
+desired.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="COLONIAL_DOLLS_CHAIR" id="COLONIAL_DOLLS_CHAIR">COLONIAL DOLL'S CHAIR.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This chair goes with the Colonial Table shown in the preceding drawing
+(<a href = "#Colonial_Table">Plate 29</a>), and at least two chairs should be made to form the set.</p>
+
+<p>The sides are first cut from 3/8" material, 5" wide and 11-1/2" long.</p>
+
+<p>A freehand curve, following the general design of the one shown, should
+be traced on a piece of paper, cut to the above size. After the outline
+is satisfactory, the design should be traced on the wood preparatory to
+cutting out. The cutting should be done with a coping saw, cutting to
+the line for a finish. Place the two sides together to see if they
+match. Variations should be trimmed down so that the pieces are exact
+duplicates.</p>
+
+<p>The back is next made, 3/8" &times; 5-1/8" &times; 10-3/4".</p>
+
+<p>The seat is made 3/8" &times; 4-1/2" &times; 5-1/8", and the front board of the seat
+measures 3/8" &times; 3-1/2" &times; 5-1/8". The seat is rounded on the front edge,
+and the front board of seat is beveled at top and bottom to set snugly
+under the seat, at the slight angle shown. This angle is obtained by
+measuring in 1-3/8" from the front, as shown in the side view.</p>
+
+<p>Sandpaper all pieces thoroughly and assemble the sides and back first,
+with glue and 3/4" brads. Set these brads below the surface and fill the
+cavity with hard beeswax. Assemble the seat and front board next, and
+then nail these between the sides of the chair, as shown in the drawing.</p>
+
+<p>Finish as desired. See Pages <a href = "#Page_15">15</a> to <a href = "#Page_18">18</a> for method of staining and
+painting.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Colonial_Chair"><img src="images/i_098m.jpg" width = "800" height = "488" alt = "Colonial Chair"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 30.</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="RING-THE-HOOK_GAME" id="RING-THE-HOOK_GAME">RING-THE-HOOK GAME.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This game is very simple in construction yet affords a great deal of
+pleasure to young people. (<a href = "#Ring_Hook">Plate 31</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>The desired outline, the dimensions for which are given in the drawing,
+is sketched on a piece of folded paper, as is shown by the sketch, and
+the design is then cut out and traced on a piece of wood cut from stock
+5/8" &times; 11" &times; 12".</p>
+
+<p>The cutting should be roughly done with a turning saw and finished
+carefully to the line with a chisel and file.</p>
+
+<p>A small chamfer gives a finished appearance if placed on the front edge.</p>
+
+<p>The board should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first, and
+then finished with No. 0. The final finish may be several coats of
+shellac or two coats of a bright lively color of paint. If a shellac
+finish is used, the numbers should be lettered in with water-proof India
+ink, after the first coat of shellac is dry, and the second coat should
+be applied over this.</p>
+
+<p>If paint is the finish selected, the numbers may be put on with the ink
+after the final coat is dry.</p>
+
+<p>Hooks are located at the various points shown on the drawing, and pains
+should be taken to get them in perpendicular to the surface of the
+board. Place a screw-hook at the top to hang up by.</p>
+
+<p>The rings used are the ordinary preserve jar rings and ten should
+constitute a set.</p>
+
+<p>The board should be placed on the wall, about five feet from the floor
+and the contestants should stand about six feet from it.</p>
+
+<p>The idea is to toss the rings in such a manner that they will land over
+the hooks. The best results are obtained by holding the ring between the
+thumb and the first two fingers, at right angles to the floor. Throw in
+such a way that the ring will strike flat against the board. With a
+little practice considerable accuracy can be developed in placing the
+rings.</p>
+
+<p>A score of one hundred should constitute a game.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="FIVE_POST_RING_TOSS" id="FIVE_POST_RING_TOSS">FIVE POST RING TOSS.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>Although the game of ring toss is an old one, yet it never loses its
+attraction for many young people, and older ones as well.</p>
+
+<p>The type of ring toss shown in the accompanying plate is a little
+variety from the regular form, each post being painted and numbered with
+the points scored by ringing that particular post. (<a href = "#Ring_Toss">Plate 32</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>The middle post, painted black, is a minus score, the ring falling on
+this causing a loss of five points.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Ring_Hook"><img src="images/i_101m.jpg" width = "800" height = "484" alt = "Ring Hook Game"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 31.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The rings, five in number, are painted at their joining points with
+colors similar to the posts. If a ring falls over a post of the same
+color as that painted on the ring the score is doubled. A black ring on
+the black post doubles the loss. The board should be set on the floor
+about eight feet from the contestants. The best results can be obtained
+by holding the rings by the thick, heavy part, parallel to the floor,
+and tossing quite high in order that they may fall flat from a point
+above the posts.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_102m.jpg" width = "775" height = "600" alt = "Ring Toss"/>
+<div class = "caption">The Ring Toss.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The posts are made with a tenon, which fits snugly in a mortise, and are
+removable so that they may be taken out when not in use. The rings may
+be made of various materials, such as rope and rattan. A very
+satisfactory ring is made by the writer's classes, by using chair
+spline. This is a rattan, light, cheap and easily bent, and may be
+bought of any firm dealing in upholstery and chair-seating materials. A
+piece about 17" long is bent in circular form, overlapping about an inch
+and held with two 1/2" brads, cleated on the underside, as shown. Wrap
+with white friction tape.</p>
+
+<p>The base of the ring toss is first cut 7/8" &times; 15" &times; 20". The center of
+each side and end is located and these points are connected, forming a
+diamond shape. Cut to this line and plane the edges smooth. Plane a 1/8"
+chamfer around the upper edge.</p>
+
+<p>Post A is made 1" &times; 1" &times; 11-3/4"; posts B and C are 1" &times; 1" &times; 8-1/4";
+post D, 1" &times; 1" &times; 5-1/4"; and post E, 1" &times; 1" &times; 6-3/4". All of these
+posts are chamfered about 1/8" at the top.</p>
+
+<p>It will be noticed, by referring to the drawing of the side view, that
+each post is an inch square for a certain distance up and from that
+point they taper to 1/2" square at the top. These measurements are
+figured from the shoulder where they rest upon the board, there being a
+1/2" tenon below. These tenons are cut so that they will be 1/2" square
+and 3/4" long.</p>
+
+<p>All holes or mortises are located 1-1/2" directly in from the corner or
+point at which they rest, except the center post, which is at the center
+point of the board. These mortises should be a fairly tight fit, yet
+allowing for the removal of the uprights when not in use.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Ring_Toss"><img src="images/i_104m.jpg" width = "800" height = "481" alt = "Ring Toss"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 32.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The color scheme is suggested on the drawing but may be changed to suit
+the individual taste. After painting or shellacking the board the first
+coat, the numbers should be lettered in, using waterproof India ink, and
+then the second coat applied.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="BEAN_BAG_GAME" id="BEAN_BAG_GAME">BEAN BAG GAME.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This is another very popular and interesting game and gives the girls in
+the domestic science course a little opportunity to show their skill in
+making the bags. These should be cut so that they will finish about four
+inches square and one end left open so that they may be filled about
+three-fourths full of beans, peas or small pebbles. The end is then
+sewed up. Burlap, ticking or any odd pieces of cloth may be used for the
+bags.</p>
+
+<p>The board itself will, no doubt, have to be glued up from two or more
+boards in order to have the finished size 20" wide by 24" long. (<a href = "#Bean_Bag">Plate
+33</a>.) Half inch bass or whitewood is suitable.</p>
+
+<p>A piece of paper should be cut 20" &times; 24" and folded so that it is 12" &times;
+20". Trace the outline on this paper, cut and unfold and lay on the
+board and trace around this. Cut to the line, using a turning saw and
+chisel and perhaps a wood file on the curves.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_106m.jpg" width = "422" height = "600" alt = "Enjoy Bean Bag Game"/>
+<div class = "caption">Boys as well as Girls enjoy the Bean Bag Game.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The openings are located, as shown by the drawing. The centers are first
+obtained, and then the widths and lengths are measured from these center
+lines. Holes are next bored, as shown by the small sketch, with a 3/4"
+bit, and either a turning or a keyhole saw is used to cut out the
+pieces. If a turning saw is used, the blade must first be unfastened at
+one end, inserted in the hole and re tightened on the opposite side.
+Finish carefully to the line with chisel and file.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Bean_Bag"><img src="images/i_107m.jpg" width = "800" height = "482" alt = "Bean Bag Game"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 33.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A small block 1/2" &times; 1-1/2" &times; 2-1/8" is attached to the back of the
+board with 3/4" No. 6 flat-head screws. This is to hold the hinge.</p>
+
+<p>The long brace is made 1/2" &times; 2-1/8" &times; 18-1/2" and is held to the small
+block by the hinge spoken of previously. A screw-eye is placed about 2"
+from the lower end of this brace and a wire or stout cord runs from this
+to similar screw-eyes, placed on the back of the main board about 2"
+from the bottom edge and 3" from the side edges. The cord or wire should
+be of sufficient length to cause the board to tip at about 60 degrees.</p>
+
+<p>After the board has been carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first and
+then finished with No. 0, the whole board should receive a coat of white
+shellac. After allowing this to dry over night, it should be rubbed down
+lightly with fine sandpaper and the numbers 2, 3 and 5 lettered on with
+black waterproof India ink. Apply another coat of shellac, or two more
+if necessary.</p>
+
+<p>Paint may be used instead of shellac as a finish, in which case the
+numbers should be put on with paint of a contrasting color to show up
+well.</p>
+
+<p>The little sketch in the drawing shows the back braces made the same as
+those on the <a href = "#Dart_Board">Dart Game Board</a>. While this is a little more difficult than
+the simple screw-eye and wire arrangement, it is much more satisfactory.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="DART_BOARD_GAME" id="DART_BOARD_GAME">DART BOARD GAME.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This game has proven very popular, not only with the young folks, but
+with the grown-ups as well. Any game where skill and accuracy may be
+developed has a strong appeal to both boys and girls as well.</p>
+
+<p>The board illustrated in <a href = "#Dart_Board">Plate 34</a>, should be made of soft wood&mdash;bass,
+pine or white wood is suitable&mdash;and cut to 15" wide by 21-1/2" long,
+from 7/8" material. The top edge is chamfered 1/4".</p>
+
+<p>The surface should be thoroughly planed and sanded and given a coat of
+white shellac. While this is drying, the rear supporting braces may be
+gotten out. The main support is 7/8" &times; 2-1/8" &times; 19". A hole is bored
+with a No. 10 bit, 1-9/16" from the end, and a piece is sawed out 5/8"
+wide from the opposite end to this hole. See the drawing for detail. A
+piece of 1/4" dowel is glued in the end to reinforce the piece, as
+shown.</p>
+
+<p>The smaller piece Y is cut 7/8" &times; 3/8" &times; 17" and is held to piece X by a
+quarter-inch dowel, as shown. A brass cup hook is screwed into the end
+which is connected with a brass screw-eye placed in the back of the
+board, 2-1/4" from the bottom edge.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_110m.jpg" width = "587" height = "600" alt = "Dart Board"/>
+<div class = "caption">The Dart Board in Use.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The small block X is 7/8" &times; 1-1/2" &times; 2-1/8" and is attached, as
+indicated, with glue and two 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws.</p>
+
+<p>The long brace X is attached to this by a 2" butt hinge and 1" flat-head
+screws.</p>
+
+<p>This folding arrangement has proven very satisfactory. The board packs
+nicely and stands rigidly when in position for playing. However, a
+simpler bracing may be used. The long brace X may be a solid piece 7/8"
+&times; 2-1/8" &times; 19", with a screw-eye on the underside from which a wire can
+run to a similar screw-eye on the back of the board. The wire can be
+adjusted so that the board will slope at the proper angle.</p>
+
+<p>After being sanded, the surface of the board should be given a coat of
+shellac and after drying should be rubbed down with No. 1/2 sandpaper.</p>
+
+<p>The circles should now be struck with a compass and waterproof ink, the
+diameters given, using a fairly heavy line. After the ink is dry give
+another coat of shellac. When this is dry the board is ready to have the
+colors applied to the circles.</p>
+
+<p>First paint circle A black and circle C red, painting just to the circle
+edge. Allow this to dry thoroughly, and then paint circle B yellow and
+circle D green. When these are dry, it may be necessary to strike all
+the circles again with ink.</p>
+
+<p>Where shown, letter in the numbers to score the game. It will be noticed
+that the small outside circles are minus numbers.</p>
+
+<p>Give the entire board and braces a finishing coat of shellac.</p>
+
+<p class="ph3"><a name="Darts" id="Darts">Darts.</a></p>
+
+<p>The darts may be whittled out by hand, but the most satisfactory ones
+are turned out on the lathe to the dimensions shown. A 1-1/2" brad
+should be driven half its length into the rounded end, the head cut off
+with cutting pliers, and the end pointed with a fine file.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Dart_Board"><img src="images/i_112m.jpg" width = "800" height = "484" alt = "Dart Board"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 34.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>At the opposite end two holes should be drilled of a size large enough
+to receive the ends of wing or tail feathers of some accommodating fowl.
+These should be dipped in glue and pressed into place.</p>
+
+<p>About six of these darts should be made and the wooden parts painted in
+bright colors. Birch or maple are good woods to use.</p>
+
+<p>The board should be placed on the floor, about ten feet from a given
+station point, and each contestant should be allowed to throw the six
+darts. The score should then be counted. Darts landing on a line should
+be credited to the lower number. One dart landing on and sticking to
+another, doubles the score of the first dart. Darts not sticking in the
+board are not allowed to be re-thrown. Darts knocked out by other darts
+lose their score.</p>
+
+<p>One thousand points should constitute a game.</p>
+
+<p>The points of the darts may be sharpened from time to time with a fine
+file.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="WIND_MILL_A" id="WIND_MILL_A">WIND MILL.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This is an interesting toy to place on the top of the shed or garage
+where the wind will have a chance to revolve the brightly colored wheel
+at a good rate. It also serves as a weather vane.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_114m.jpg" width = "440" height = "600" alt = "Kinds of Mills"/>
+<div class = "caption">Three Kinds of Wind Mills and the Sand or Water Mill.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The main part of the mill (<a href = "#Wind_Turbine">Plate 35</a>) is made up of four pieces of half
+inch stock, two being 3-1/2" &times; 4-3/4" and two 2-1/2" &times; 4-3/4". The two
+larger sides taper to 2-1/2" wide at the top and the two smaller pieces
+to 1/2". The top piece forming the roof is made from a piece of wood
+1-3/4" thick. If wood of this thickness is not available, several
+thinner pieces must be glued together. It is cut 3-1/2" &times; 3-1/2" and a
+line is drawn around the edge 3/8" from the lower sides. From this line
+the roof tapers to a point directly over the middle of the piece, as
+shown.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Wind_Turbine"><img src="images/i_115m.jpg" width = "800" height = "487" alt = "Wind Mill"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 35.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The long support, on which the mill rests, is made 1/2" &times; 1-1/4" &times;
+10-1/4". Two holes are bored and countersunk for the screws which hold
+it to the mill base. A similar hole is bored from the opposite end for
+the screw which holds in place the round piece A.</p>
+
+<p>The circular piece marked A on the side view, is made 3/8" &times; 2-1/2". A
+hole is bored 1/2" deep with a quarter inch bit on the edge. The piece C
+is a quarter inch dowel, 7-3/4" long. A hole is bored with a quarter
+inch bit in the roof, at a slant, as is shown in the side view. This
+hole is 3/8" deep.</p>
+
+<p>The dowel piece C fits in these holes when assembled, being held with
+glue.</p>
+
+<p>The smaller base piece, which is attached to the bottom of the mill with
+glue and 1" brads, is made 1/2" &times; 4" &times; 5". The small piece, on which the
+vanes of the mill turn, is made from a piece of half inch dowel, cut
+1-1/2" long. A hole is bored in the roof piece 1/2" deep to receive
+this. A smaller hole is drilled in the outer end of this dowel to
+receive a 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screw on which the vanes revolve.</p>
+
+<p>A piece is now cut 3/4" &times; 7/8" &times; 7" to serve as the supporting piece on
+which the whole mill turns. On one end a notch is cut, as shown in the
+drawing, 3/8" deep and 1-1/2" long. Two screw holes are bored in this
+notch to allow the piece to be attached to the shed or roof. On the
+opposite end a hole is bored in the center, 3/4" deep and with a drill
+that will insure a 16-penny nail fitting very tightly. One of these
+nails should be driven in and the headed end cut off so as to allow a
+projection of 1" beyond the end of the wood. The end of this nail should
+be filed smooth and round.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored to receive this in the base pieces, as shown in the
+drawing, extending through both pieces and large enough for the nail to
+turn freely within. A washer should be placed over this to insure the
+mill turning easily.</p>
+
+<p>The two pieces for the vane of the mill are made 3/4" &times; 1" &times; 5-1/2".
+Each vane is chiseled at an angle, sloping in one direction at one end
+and in the opposite direction at the other, allowing at least 1/8" for
+the thickness. Considerable pains should be used in shaping these vanes
+to insure even balance. File and sand these smooth.</p>
+
+<p>A middle lap joint is made exactly in the center of each vane, cutting
+half through on each piece and making a smooth, flush fit. Hold the
+vanes together with glue and 1/2" brads at this point and carefully bore
+a hole at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> the center large enough to allow a 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head
+screw to turn easily.</p>
+
+<p>A small washer is placed under the head of the screw and one between the
+rear of the vanes and the end of the supporting dowel. Turn the screw up
+tight enough to allow the vanes to clear nicely.</p>
+
+<p>All pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first and
+finished with No. 0. Paint all pieces before assembling.</p>
+
+<p>A suggested color scheme is shown in the drawing.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<div>
+<h2><a name="WIND_MILL_B" id="WIND_MILL_B">WIND MILL.</a><br />
+<small>(Type B.)</small></h2>
+</div>
+
+<p>This is another interesting action toy and makes a very pleasing
+addition to the top of a garage or barn. (<a href = "#Wind_Toy">Plate 36</a>.) Children also enjoy
+toys of this sort at the beaches where they can build up little villages
+in the sand.</p>
+
+<p>The four long uprights are made 1/2" &times; 1/2" &times; 19". The top piece, which
+is eight sided, is first made 1/2" &times; 3-1/4" &times; 3-1/4". Then 3/4" is
+measured in from each corner and these points are connected and the
+lines cut carefully with a saw. A hole is bored in the center with a bit
+a little smaller than a 1-3/4" No. 8 screw.</p>
+
+<p>The piece to which the long uprights are attached is next made, 1/2" &times;
+2-1/4" &times; 2-1/4". Measure in from each corner, on the upper surface,
+5/8", and from each corner on the lower edge measure in 1/2". Draw
+these sloping lines from top to bottom points and saw these corner
+pieces out very carefully. A hole is bored in the center of this piece
+similar to the hole bored in the previous piece.</p>
+
+<p>Attach the long uprights to this piece with glue and 1-1/4" brads,
+trimming the top ends of the uprights with a chisel and file until they
+are flush with the surface of the top piece.</p>
+
+<p>Carefully spread the uprights until they are 9-1/2" apart from outside
+to outside, as shown. Mark off points on the inside edges 4" up from the
+bottom ends and 7-1/4" above the first marks. These points are to locate
+the places where the cross pieces go.</p>
+
+<p>Cut the eight cross braces 1/2" &times; 1/2" and sufficiently long to fit
+nicely at these points between the uprights. It will be noticed that
+they will have to be cut at a slight angle. Attach these braces with
+glue and 1-1/4" brads, seeing that they are all even and parallel with
+the floor when setting upright.</p>
+
+<p>The angle braces are made 1/2" &times; 1/2" &times; 11" and cross each other with a
+halved joint, as shown. The ends are cut at an angle to conform to the
+slope of the uprights and are attached to them by 1" brads and glue.</p>
+
+<p>Piece E is now made, 1-1/4" &times; 1-1/4" &times; 2", and is tapered to 3/4" square
+at the upper end. This is done by measuring in 1/4" from each upper
+corner and drawing to the lower corners and cutting to the line. A
+small hole is bored in the center of the upper end to start the screw
+which holds piece B in place.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Wind_Toy"><img src="images/i_120m.jpg" width = "800" height = "486" alt = "Wind Mill B"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 36.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Piece B is made 3/4" &times; 3/4" &times; 5-1/2" and has a slot cut in it, 1/4" wide
+and 2-3/8" long, as shown. The inside end of the slot is cut at a slight
+angle to receive the slope of tailpiece C. A hole is bored 3-1/4" from
+the slot end of this piece, of a size to turn freely on a 1-1/2" No. 8
+round-head screw.</p>
+
+<p>Tail C is made 1/4" &times; 4" &times; 6" and then 1/2" is measured up from the
+lower right end corner and 1/2" measured in from this point toward the
+left and a dot is placed. Draw lines from this dot to the
+lower-left-hand corner and to the upper-right-hand corner. Round all of
+these corners, using a 1/2" radius and carefully finish to the lines all
+around.</p>
+
+<p>The vanes A must be very carefully made to insure a close fit and proper
+balance. Two pieces are cut 7/8" &times; 1-1/4" &times; 7". The method of forming
+the vanes will be more easily understood by referring to the detail,
+where every measurement is plainly given. The two vanes are joined with
+a middle lap joint, which requires considerable skill in forming. Each
+piece is cut half way through at its middle point, seeing that the
+groove is no wider than the width of the piece that goes within it.</p>
+
+<p>The two vanes are joined with glue and four 3/4" brads.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored in the center, of a size that will turn easily on a
+1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screw.</p>
+
+<p>Sand all pieces well with No. 1/2 sandpaper.</p>
+
+<p>Paint the various pieces as suggested in the color scheme and attach the
+tail C to piece B with glue and 1/2" brads.</p>
+
+<p>The vanes A are attached to piece B with a 1-1/2" round-head screw, with
+washers under the screw head and between the vanes and piece B. Piece B
+is attached to block E with a 1-1/2" round-head screw, with washers
+under the screw head and between B and E.</p>
+
+<p>Have all movable parts so that they will move freely.</p>
+
+<p>A finish nail may be placed in the lower part of each leg to secure the
+mill to the desired location.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="SAND_OR_WATER_MILL" id="SAND_OR_WATER_MILL">SAND OR WATER MILL.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This is an interesting beach toy as either fine sand or water may be
+used to operate it. (<a href = "#Sand_Mill">Plate 37</a>.) It is very simple to construct and is
+made as follows: The base is constructed of 1/2" pine, 7-1/2" wide and
+7-1/2" long; and the four blocks which are glued and bradded to the
+corners, are 1/2" &times; 1" &times; 1". The two uprights are 3/4" &times; 7/8" &times; 8-1/4",
+and the two cross supports at the tops measure 3/4" &times; 7/8" &times; 2-1/2".</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Sand_Mill"><img src="images/i_123m.jpg" width = "800" height = "481" alt = "Sand or Water Mill"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 37.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Two holes are bored in the base for the screws that hold the uprights in
+place. These holes are 2-3/4" from the end and 2-1/8" from the sides.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are bored in the little top braces 1/2" from the two ends and one
+just in the middle, or 1-1/4" from the ends. These are for the screws
+that hold the braces to the uprights and to the top piece. All holes are
+bored with a drill suitable to take 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws, and
+all are countersunk on the side where the screw enters.</p>
+
+<p>The top piece is made 1/2" &times; 5-1/4" &times; 5-1/2" with the two front corners
+slightly rounded, as shown.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored of a size to receive the funnel used, 1-1/2" from the
+front edge and 2-5/8" from the sides.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is drilled in each upright piece, 3-1/2" from the lower end, of a
+size that will insure a driving fit to the wire used, in this case being
+a piece of No. 12 copper-dipped, 4-3/4" long.</p>
+
+<p>A piece of 3/4" dowel is cut off 7/8" long and a similar hole is bored
+about two-thirds of the way through, as shown.</p>
+
+<p>Four holes are bored, as indicated on the drawing, for the quills, which
+are later glued in place. Feathers from the poultry yard will furnish
+these.</p>
+
+<p>Sand all pieces with No. 1 sandpaper and first assemble the top, the
+two uprights and the two cross supports. Paint these two coats of red
+paint.</p>
+
+<p>Attach the cross blocks to the base with glue and 3/4" brads and paint
+two coats of yellow. Paint the tunnel two coats of bright green.</p>
+
+<p>While these are drying construct the paddle wheel. The piece through
+which the wire axle runs is 3/4" &times; 3/4" &times; 2-1/4". The four blades are
+1/4" &times; 2-1/4" &times; 2-3/4".</p>
+
+<p>After these are sanded and a hole is bored through the center piece,
+nail the blades to the center piece, in the position shown in the side
+view. Use 3/4" brads and glue for fastening the blades. Paint two coats
+of yellow.</p>
+
+<p>When the parts so far assembled are thoroughly dry, finish the assembly,
+using 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws and glue.</p>
+
+<p>The toy is now ready to operate.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="DOLLS_CRADLE" id="DOLLS_CRADLE">DOLL'S CRADLE.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>A cradle built according to <a href = "#Cradle4Doll">Plate 38</a> is suitable for a doll sixteen or
+seventeen inches in length.</p>
+
+<p>The two sides should be first made 1/2" &times; 6-1/2" &times; 20". These are later
+beveled slightly on their lower edge to conform to the slope of the head
+and foot board.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Cradle4Doll"><img src="images/i_126m.jpg" width = "800" height = "488" alt = "Doll's Cradle"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 38.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Measure from one end along the top edge 7-1/4" and from the other end
+11-1/4". From this last end the width of the side is cut down to 4-1/2",
+as far as the 11-1/4" measurement previously made. Connect the point
+which is 7-1/4" from the left end with the point which is 11-1/4" from
+the right end. This gives a slope of approximately 30 degrees, as is
+shown in the side view. Slightly round the corners, as indicated.</p>
+
+<p>The head board is next made 1/2" &times; 7" &times; 8-3/4".</p>
+
+<p>Measure in, on one of the long edges, an inch from either corner, and
+from these points draw straight lines to the upper corners. Cut
+carefully to this line. This makes the lower edge 6-3/4" long. The upper
+corners are rounded, as shown.</p>
+
+<p>The foot board is made in a similar manner, first cutting it 1/2" &times; 5" &times;
+8". Place the head and foot board together to see if they exactly
+correspond. If not, plane or saw them while together so they are exactly
+alike, except in height.</p>
+
+<p>The four pieces so far completed may now be assembled, using glue and 1"
+brads.</p>
+
+<p>See that this frame sets flat when placed on a level surface.</p>
+
+<p>The base is next made 1/2" &times; 8-3/4" &times; 20". The two rockers are cut 3/4"
+&times; 2-3/4" &times; 13-1/2".</p>
+
+<p>It is a good plan to cut a piece of paper the above size, fold across
+the short way and sketch on the folded surface one-half the rocker
+shape. When this has been done in a satisfactory manner it may be
+unfolded, cut out and drawn on wood. The rocker ends have a slight
+shoulder of 1/8", as shown. In sloping the rockers, get them alike and
+make the curve such as will cause them to rock with a very slight
+pressure.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_128m.jpg" width = "553" height = "600" alt = "Types of Cradle"/>
+<div class = "caption">Two Types of Doll Cradles.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Holes are bored with a small drill in the base, 2-1/2" from the ends and
+1-1/2" from the sides. A hole is also bored half way between the two, as
+shown, and all are countersunk on the upper side.</p>
+
+<p>Attach the rockers with glue and 1" No. 6 flat-head screws.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>See that they project equally on the sides and are square with the
+edges.</p>
+
+<p>Now nail the rocker base to the upper frame previously made, using 1"
+brads and glue. Have the base project equally from the upper frame on
+each side and come flush with the ends.</p>
+
+<p>All pieces should have been carefully sanded, of course, before
+assembling.</p>
+
+<p>The next, and last step is the final finish. If paint is to be the
+finish, select the desired color and apply a priming and a finish coat.
+Follow directions in the front of the book for painting.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="COLONIAL_DOLL_CRADLE" id="COLONIAL_DOLL_CRADLE">COLONIAL DOLL CRADLE.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>The type of cradle, shown in <a href = "#Colonial_Cradle">Plate 39</a>, is similar in many ways to the
+one on the last plate. It is, however, more artistic and somewhat more
+difficult to make.</p>
+
+<p>Follow directions on the last plate for making rockers, base and
+footboard.</p>
+
+<p>The headboard is cut 1/2" &times; 8-3/4" &times; 10-7/8".</p>
+
+<p>Place a center line, longways of the piece, as shown in the end view. At
+the top measure 1-1/4" each side of the center line and make a dot. At
+the base measure 3-3/8" each side of the center line and place a dot.</p>
+
+<p>Measure 1-3/4" from the top edge, on each side. Connect these points, as
+shown in the end view. Cut carefully to the lines. Test the head and
+footboard to see if they compare.</p>
+
+<p>Make the two sides of the cradle next 1/2" &times; 9-1/4" &times; 20".</p>
+
+<p>Seven inches from one end and 6-1/4" from the lower edge strike a circle
+1-3/8" in radius. From the lower edge of this circle draw a line
+parallel to the base. This will make the narrow part of the sides 4-1/2"
+wide.</p>
+
+<p>From the point directly over the center of the circle, square a line to
+the top edge of the side. The outline of the side is now ready to be cut
+out. If an expansive bit is obtainable, bore the hole from the center of
+the circle with the bit set at 1-3/8" radius. If this bit is not
+obtainable, the hole must be cut out with a key-hole or a turning saw
+after first cutting to the circle, along the other lines previously
+drawn.</p>
+
+<p>The short top edge of the sides should now be beveled to conform to the
+slope of the head board.</p>
+
+<p>Next make the two top pieces which form the sloping part of the roof.
+These are 1/2" &times; 5-1/4" &times; 7-3/4". These must be planed at their top edge
+to quite a sharp bevel until they are even with the top of the head
+board.</p>
+
+<p>The top piece is the final piece cut, and this is 1/2" &times; 4-3/4" &times;
+7-3/4".</p>
+
+<p>The pieces should now be carefully sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper and the
+sides and ends assembled with glue and 1" brads.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Colonial_Cradle"><img src="images/i_131m.jpg" width = "800" height = "486" alt = "Colonial Cradle"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 39.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The roof pieces are next placed. Be sure that the top piece sits flat
+and overhangs equally on both sides.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are bored in the bottom piece for screws, 2-7/8" from the ends and
+1-1/2" from the sides. A third hole is bored at each end half way
+between the other two, as shown, and all are countersunk.</p>
+
+<p>Attach the rockers with glue and 1" flat-head screws, being careful that
+they project equally on both sides and are at right angles with the
+edges of the base.</p>
+
+<p>The final finish is optional, but if the cradle is to be painted or
+enameled it should first receive a priming coat of flat white. See
+directions for painting in the first part of the book.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="DOLLS_BED" id="DOLLS_BED">DOLL'S BED.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>The bed illustrated in <a href = "#Bed4Doll">Plate 40</a>, is suitable for the ordinary size doll,
+16" to 18" in length.</p>
+
+<p>The four legs should first be cut, the two long ones being 7/8" &times; 7/8" &times;
+12" and the two short ones 7/8" &times; 7/8" &times; 9-1/4".</p>
+
+<p>These should be planed up square and smooth and the top edges chamfered
+1/16", as shown.</p>
+
+<p>The two side rails are next made 3/8" &times; 2-1/2" &times; 20-1/2".</p>
+
+<p>The four cross rails, two on the head board and two on the foot board,
+are made 1/2" &times; 7/8" &times; 8-3/4".</p>
+
+<p>Seven slats are next made 3/8" &times; 1-1/4" &times; 8".</p>
+
+<p>Two long supporting slats, on which the seven slats previously made
+rest, are now made 3/8" &times; 1" &times; 19-1/4".</p>
+
+<p>Three upright slats are now made for the head board, two being 3/8" &times;
+1-3/4" &times; 8", and one 3/8" &times; 3" &times; 8". Three similar slats are made for
+the foot board, two 3/8" &times; 1-3/4" &times; 5-1/4" and one 3/8" &times; 3" &times; 5-1/4".</p>
+
+<p>Seven holes should be carefully bored where the cross rails and legs are
+joined. Use a small drill about 1/8" in diameter.</p>
+
+<p>These holes are 2-1/2" up from the bottom end of the legs and 1" down
+from the top ends. In assembling these parts, use glue, brads and 1-1/2"
+No. 8 round-head screws, as shown on the drawing. Next place the slats,
+as indicated, using glue and 1-1/4" brads. Take pains to space these
+properly and center them on the cross piece. All brad holes, wherever
+placed, should be set with a nail set and the hole filled with hard
+beeswax.</p>
+
+<p>In nailing in the brads, rest the bottom support on the corner of the
+bench, so as not to strain the cross piece or legs in pounding with the
+hammer.</p>
+
+<p>Next attach the long side rails, having their ends come flush with the
+outer side of the leg. Use glue and 1" brads. See that the rails are
+attached square with the long edges of legs. The two shorter supporting
+rails (3/8" &times; 1" &times; 19-1/4"), are next nailed to the lower cross pieces
+at the head and foot of the bed, and close up against the long side
+rails. A few brads, 1" long, should be driven through from the side
+rails into these to help secure them in place.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Bed4Doll"><img src="images/i_134m.jpg" width = "800" height = "488" alt = "Doll's Bed"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 40.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The seven cross slats are carefully spaced, glued, and nailed in place
+with 1/2" brads. While nailing, place a block of wood beneath the ends
+for a bearing.</p>
+
+<p>All pieces should have been sanded previous to assembling, and the bed
+may now be either stained or painted. If painted, a priming coat should
+be applied first. After this has dried it should be carefully sanded
+with No. 0 sandpaper and the finish coat applied.</p>
+
+<p>Considerable care should be taken in the painting to insure a good,
+clean-cut job. Refer back to the first of the book for necessary
+instructions for painting.</p>
+
+<p>There is an opportunity here for the older sister to help in preparing
+the bedding.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="TWO_TYPES_OF_STILTS" id="TWO_TYPES_OF_STILTS">TWO TYPES OF STILTS.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p class="ph3">(Type A Stilt.)</p>
+
+<p>Most every boy knows there is a certain fascination in walking on
+stilts, but they may prove a dangerous pastime if not strongly made.</p>
+
+<p>In this style of stilt (Type A, <a href = "#Stilt">Plate 41</a>) the uprights are held beneath
+the arm pits.</p>
+
+<p>The upright pieces should be made 7/8" &times; 1-3/8" &times; 5', or as long as the
+boy desires. Hard pine or ash make strong, durable stilts. The edges of
+the upright should be slightly rounded so that they will fit the hand
+nicely.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_136m.jpg" width = "389" height = "600" alt = "Stilts"/>
+<div class = "caption">Two Kinds of Stilts.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Holes are bored with a 1/4" bit, 17" from the lower end and 2-1/2"
+apart, as shown. The upper hole is countersunk to receive a 2-1/2" No.
+12 flat-head screw.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Stilt"><img src="images/i_137m.jpg" width = "800" height = "491" alt = "Stilts"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 41.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The foot rests are made 1" &times; 3-1/2" &times; 5" and shaped, as indicated on the
+drawing.</p>
+
+<p>They are secured to the uprights with screws and 1/4" &times; 3" round-head
+stove bolts. Several holes at various eighths could be bored to allow of
+adjusting the foot rest to suit the user of the stilt.</p>
+
+<p>The uprights can be painted red and the foot rests green, or the whole
+can be left plain, according to the desires of the maker. A touch of
+paint, however, not only adds to the appearance of any article, but also
+preserves it and lengthens its life.</p>
+
+
+<p class="ph3">(Type B Stilt.)</p>
+
+<p>Type B stilt (<a href = "#Stilt">Plate 41</a>) is made shorter than Type A and is to be
+strapped to the leg just above the knee.</p>
+
+<p>The uprights are 1" &times; 1-3/8" &times; 36", or longer if desired.</p>
+
+<p>Round the edges of the uprights and bore holes at the same places and of
+the same size as in Type A.</p>
+
+<p>A strap is screwed on, as is shown in the drawing, to support the feet,
+and another strap, long enough to go around the leg beneath the knee, is
+attached at the upper end, 2" from the top.</p>
+
+<p>Sandpaper thoroughly and finish to suit.</p>
+
+<p>A pole about seven feet long should be carried to balance and steady
+oneself.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_139m.jpg" width = "669" height = "600" alt = "Carts and Dump Wagon"/>
+<div class = "caption">Two Kinds of Carts and a Dump Wagon (in front).</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CHILDS_CART" id="CHILDS_CART">CHILD'S CART.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>Carts always appeal to youngsters and the one given here (<a href = "#Cart">Plate 42</a>) is
+of simple construction.</p>
+
+<p>Make the side pieces first 1/2" &times; 6" &times; 10". On one long edge measure in
+2-1/2" and from this point draw a line to the upper corner. Cut
+carefully to this line. The front piece is made 1/2" &times; 6" &times; 6" and the
+end piece 1/2" &times; 6" &times; 6-3/4". This end piece is beveled to conform to
+the top and bottom edges of the cart, as shown in the side view.</p>
+
+<p>The bottom piece is made 1/2" &times; 6" &times; 6-1/2".</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Cart"><img src="images/i_140m.jpg" width = "800" height = "483" alt = "Child's Cart"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 42.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The piece to which the wheels are attached, is made 7/8" &times; 1" &times; 7-1/8".
+This piece has two holes bored and countersunk in it for screws, 1-1/4"
+from the ends and half way between the sides.</p>
+
+<p>Two small blocks are made 1/2" &times; 1" &times; 2-1/2" and tapered 3/4", as shown.
+These blocks have holes bored and countersunk for screws. Bore the holes
+in such a manner that they will not come directly opposite each other,
+otherwise the screws will be likely to hit each other.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are bored in the front piece of the cart and countersunk on the
+inner side. These pieces are 3" from either side, the first one being
+2-1/4" from the upper edge and the second an inch below the first.</p>
+
+<p>The handle measures 7/8" &times; 1" &times; 30". A hole is bored 5/8" from the front
+end with a half-inch bit and the extreme end of the handle is slightly
+chamfered for a finish. The opposite end of the handle is cut at an
+angle of 30&deg;, as shown.</p>
+
+<p>A piece of dowel, 1/2" in diameter and 3" long, is cut and inserted in
+the hole in the handle and secured by driving an inch brad in from the
+under side of the handle.</p>
+
+<p>The wheels are 7/8" &times; 5" and may be cut out with a turning saw and
+trimmed to the line with a chisel, or, if a lathe is available, they can
+quickly be cut to size. If they are to be sawed out, a circle should be
+struck with a divider or compass set at a 2-1/2" radius and then
+carefully cut to the line.</p>
+
+<p>The axle is attached to the bottom piece with glue and 1-1/4" No. 8
+flat-head screws.</p>
+
+<p>Bore a hole in the end of the axle, exactly in the center, using a drill
+slightly smaller than the screw that is to hold the wheels in position.
+Bore a hole in each wheel, at the center point, a little larger than the
+screw that is to be used. Attach the wheels with 1-1/2" No. 10
+round-head blue screws, using a small washer under the screw head and
+also between the wheel and the cart body. Tighten the screw just enough
+to allow a little play for the wheels to turn easily.</p>
+
+<p>Sand all pieces thoroughly before assembling, using No. 1 sandpaper
+first and finishing with No. 0. Assemble the body part of the cart with
+glue and 1" brads.</p>
+
+<p>A suggested color scheme is given in the drawing.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CHILDS_DUMP_WAGON" id="CHILDS_DUMP_WAGON">CHILD'S DUMP WAGON.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This toy at once appeals to the children as it only requires a simple
+turn of the crank to quickly dump the load of sand.</p>
+
+<p>Each part of this toy is completely detailed in <a href = "#Wagon_Detail">Plate 44</a>, while <a href = "#Dump_Wagon">Plate 43</a>
+gives the assembly drawing.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Dump_Wagon"><img src="images/i_143m.jpg" width = "800" height = "482" alt = "Dump Wagon"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 43.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The two sides are first made 1/2" &times; 5-1/2" &times; 12", and the two ends 1/2"
+&times; 6" &times; 7-1/2". The sides are beveled about 1/8" on the lower edge so
+that they will conform to the angle of the end piece. The ends taper
+from 7-1/2" long at the top to 5-5/8" at the bottom. This angle is
+obtained by measuring in 15/16" from either side and drawing to the
+opposite upper corner. Saw and finish to this line and slightly round
+the upper corners, as shown. Bore a hole with a 1/2" bit at the point
+indicated.</p>
+
+<p>The bottom piece is made 1/2" &times; 6-5/8" &times; 12".</p>
+
+<p>Sand these five pieces and assemble, using 1-1/4" brads and glue. Plane
+the side edges of the bottom board to the same angle as the slope of the
+sides.</p>
+
+<p>The two end uprights are now made 1/2" &times; 6-3/4" &times; 8". Measure up 2-1/4"
+on the short edges and place a dot. Connect these points with a sloping
+line and saw and finish to the outline shown. Bore holes with a 1/2" bit
+at the place indicated. Locate and bore a screw hole 1/2" up from the
+center of the lower edge to attach brace block.</p>
+
+<p>Make two small supporting blocks 7/8" &times; 1-3/4" &times; 1-3/4". Bore a 1/2"
+hole carefully in the center and drill four smaller holes to receive
+1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws, 3/8" from each other, as shown.
+Countersink these four holes.</p>
+
+<p>Glue and screw these blocks to the end of the wagon box, 1-1/4" from the
+top edge, as shown.</p>
+
+<p>Make two brace blocks by first cutting out a square 7/8" &times; 1" &times; 1" and
+cutting this in two diagonally from corner to corner. Glue and screw
+these blocks to the end uprights, using 1" No. 6 flat-head screws.</p>
+
+<p>The underbody should next be made 1/2" &times; 8" &times; 18-1/2".</p>
+
+<p>Measure in 3-1/4" from each corner on the long edge, and with the
+dividers set at 2-1/4", strike a quarter circle and connect these arcs
+with straight lines, making the width in the middle 4-1/2". Saw this out
+with a coping saw and finish smoothly to the line.</p>
+
+<p>Locate and drill the twelve screw holes shown, with a drill the size of
+a No. 6 screw.</p>
+
+<p>Countersink all holes, except the four holes which hold the supports for
+the cart handle. These four are not countersunk as 1" No. 6 round-head
+screws are used at these points.</p>
+
+<p>Attach the end uprights to the underbody with glue and 1" No. 6
+flat-head screws, eight in all.</p>
+
+<p>Next make the two axles 7/8" &times; 1" &times; 8-1/4" and bore and countersink the
+three holes, on the narrow edge, at the points indicated. Glue and screw
+these in place, 1-1/4" from the front and rear ends, using 1-1/4" No. 8
+flat-head screws. These axles project 1/8" beyond the sides of the
+underbody, on all sides, so as to allow the wheels to turn without
+interference.</p>
+
+<p>The wheels may be made on a lathe or with a turning saw, 7/8" thick and
+all exactly 4" in diameter. Bore a hole in their center with a drill a
+little larger than the wire of a 2" No. 10 round-head screw. When
+assembling, use a washer on each side of the wheel.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Wagon_Detail"><img src="images/i_146m.jpg" width = "800" height = "480" alt = "Dump Wagon Details"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 44.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A hole should be started about 3/8" deep in the center of the ends of
+the axle to insure the screws going in properly.</p>
+
+<p>The cart handle is made 1/2" &times; 1" &times; 30", with one end rounded and the
+opposite end chamfered 1/8". On the latter end measure in 5/8" on the
+wide side and bore a hole carefully with a 1/2" bit. Cut a piece from a
+1/2" dowel, 3-1/4" long, and insert it in this hole, keeping it in place
+with glue and one 7/8" brad.</p>
+
+<p>Bore a hole 1/2" from the rounded end with a 3/16" bit.</p>
+
+<p>The two pieces which hold the handle are now made 3/4" &times; 7/8" &times; 2-3/4".
+A 3/16" hole is bored in the 7/8" edge of these pieces, 1/2" from the
+end. These holes, and the hole in the handle, are to receive a
+round-head stove bolt, which is 3/16" &times; 2-1/4".</p>
+
+<p>Glue and screw these two pieces in place in the center of the front end
+of the underbody, leaving about 1/16" space between the handle and the
+edges of the blocks for freedom of movement.</p>
+
+<p>The dumping handle is made of pieces of dowel, the main piece being 1"
+in diameter by 4-1/2" long. The other pieces are cut from a half-inch
+dowel, 3" and 3-1/2" long, respectively.</p>
+
+<p>On the main dowel bore holes with a 1/2" bit, 3/4" from the ends, to
+receive the shorter dowels. Glue and insert the 3-1/4" dowel and bore a
+small hole to receive a 7/8" No. 6 round-head screw. Place this screw
+and then insert the dowel through the front upright into the front
+supporting block and flush with the inner surface of the front box end.
+Hold in place in the block with glue and a 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head
+screw.</p>
+
+<p>Glue and screw the 3" dowel in place for the grip.</p>
+
+<p>A piece of 1/2" dowel, 2" long, is similarly placed through the rear
+upright, thence into the rear supporting block and box end.</p>
+
+<p>This is also held with glue and a 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screw through
+the block.</p>
+
+<p>Sand and apply two coats of paint before assembling the wheels and
+handle.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<div>
+<h2><a name="CHILDS_WHEELBARROW_A" id="CHILDS_WHEELBARROW_A">CHILD'S WHEELBARROW.</a><br />
+<small>(Type A.)</small></h2>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Child's Wheelbarrow, shown in <a href = "#Barrow4Child">Plate 45</a>, is very serviceable and
+quite easy to make, and, if the directions are followed carefully, the
+result will be a toy that will outlast a majority of the toys ordinarily
+found on the store shelves.</p>
+
+<p>First, make the handles 7/8" &times; 1-1/4" &times; 30". Chamfer the handles, as
+shown, for four inches from one end.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The two sides are made 1/2" &times; 5-1/2" &times; 15" and 1-1/2" is measured in on
+one long edge and a line drawn from this point to the lower corner. Saw
+and plane to this line and round the upper corner with a chisel and
+file.</p>
+
+<p>The end is 3/8" &times; 5-1/2" &times; 7-1/4". The bottom is first cut 1/2" &times; 11" &times;
+14". On one end measure in 1-7/8" from one side and a like distance from
+the other side. Connect these points with the opposite extreme corners
+and finish to these lines. The bottom is now tapered to 7-1/4" wide at
+the front end.</p>
+
+<p>Assemble the sides, the bottom and the end with glue and 1-1/2" finish
+nails, setting the front piece back 1/4" from the end of the sides, as
+shown in the drawing. Set all nails below the surface and fill the holes
+with beeswax.</p>
+
+<p>Place the assembled part on the handles in such a manner that the front
+end of the box part of the wheelbarrow is 5" from the front end of the
+handles, and the handles at the front end are 2" apart inside, and at
+the grip end 13" apart outside.</p>
+
+<p>While in this position, which is the permanent assembling position, mark
+the position of the six screw holes, which are bored with a drill of a
+size to receive a 1" No. 6 flat-head screw. Countersink these holes.</p>
+
+<p>The two legs are made 7/8" &times; 1" &times; 8-3/4" and beveled 1/4" at the lower
+end. On the upper end a notch is cut out 3/8" deep by 1-1/4" long. Two
+holes are bored, as indicated, to attach the leg to the handle. This is
+done with glue and 1" No. 6 round-head screws.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_150m.jpg" width = "595" height = "600" alt = "Wheelbarrows"/>
+<div class = "caption">Wheelbarrows.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>A 1/2" dowel rod runs between the legs to brace them, and a hole is
+bored 3/8" deep in each leg, 2-1/2" from the lower end. The dowel is 9"
+long and is held in place with glue, and a 3/4" brad is driven in the
+leg to hold it firmly in place.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Barrow4Child"><img src="images/i_151m.jpg" width = "800" height = "483" alt = "Child's Wheelbarrow A"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 45.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "WheelbarrowB"><img src="images/i_152m.jpg" width = "800" height = "481" alt = "Child's Wheelbarrow B"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 46.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored very carefully 1-1/4" from the front end of the handles
+to receive the wheel axle. It will be noticed, by referring to the top
+view of the drawing, that on account of the taper of the handles this
+hole must be bored slightly on a slant and about half way through. The
+bit should be of a size to allow a piece of sixteen-penny nail to turn
+freely, as the axle should be made of a nail of this size, cut 3" long.</p>
+
+<p>The wheel is best made of hard wood, such as maple, 7/8" thick and 6" in
+diameter.</p>
+
+<p>Bore the hole in the center with the same drill just used.</p>
+
+<p>Next cut two pieces from a 1/2" dowel, 3/8" long, and bore a similar
+hole exactly through their center. These two pieces of dowel are glued
+to the wheel and serve to make it run in the center. When assembling,
+place a small washer between the dowels and handle, as shown.</p>
+
+<p>All pieces should have been carefully sanded before assembling, and the
+wheel should be painted red and allowed to dry before being put in
+place. The remainder of the wheelbarrow should be painted bright green.
+Apply two coats, rubbing down the first coat when dry with No. 0
+sandpaper before applying the second.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<div>
+<h2><a name="CHILDS_WHEELBARROW_B" id="CHILDS_WHEELBARROW_B">CHILD'S WHEELBARROW.</a><br />
+<small>(Type B.)</small></h2>
+</div>
+
+<p>This style wheelbarrow (Plates <a href = "#WheelbarrowB">46</a> and <a href = "#Detail_BarrowB">47</a>) is planned exceptionally
+strong and sturdy and will stand a large amount of hard usage. It is
+made larger and stronger than Type A, and is naturally a little more
+difficult to make, but well within the ability of an eighth grade boy.
+This type has removable sideboards.</p>
+
+<p>The plate of details gives exact information how to make each piece, so
+it will not be necessary to give the directions here.</p>
+
+<p>After all pieces are correctly made and all holes are bored at the
+places indicated, each part should be sanded very carefully and made
+ready for assembling.</p>
+
+<p>Care should be taken to get good tight joints on the front brace, the
+wheel supports and the tops of the legs.</p>
+
+<p>The metal braces can be made from strips of zinc 1" &times; 4", bent over the
+braces W, allowing a little freedom for removing the sideboards. Holes
+should be drilled in these braces, where shown, to receive 1/2" No. 6
+round-head screws.</p>
+
+<p>First attach the bottom boards to the handles with 1" No. 6 flat-head
+screws, placing the ends of the handles even with the front of the
+bottom board and flush with the side edges.</p>
+
+<p>Next fasten the front and rear brace in place with 1-1/2" No. 8
+flat-head screws, on the under side, and with 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head
+screws and washers from the outside of the handle to the brace ends.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Detail_BarrowB"><img src="images/i_155m.jpg" width = "800" height = "480" alt = "Details Wheelbarrow B"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 47.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Fasten one wheel brace in its proper place with 1" No. 6 flat-head
+screws from the upper side of the bottom board.</p>
+
+<p>Place the axle of the wheel in the hole and attach the other wheel in
+the same manner.</p>
+
+<p>Glue and screw the front uprights in place, as indicated, with 1" No. 6
+round-head screws, and place the top cross piece on these and hold in
+place with glue and 1" round-head blue screws.</p>
+
+<p>Place the sides in position, with the front ends flush with the outer
+edges of the front braces. Place the metal braces over the supporting
+pieces and screw in place, using 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws.</p>
+
+<p>Braces X, which run from the wheel supports to the front piece of the
+wheelbarrow, are screwed in place, as shown, using 1-1/4" No. 8
+round-head screws.</p>
+
+<p>It will be noticed that the hole for the dowel stick in the leg only
+extends in 3/8". Place one leg in position, 14-1/2" from the ends of the
+handles, using glue and 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws. Insert the
+dowel stick in this leg and also in the second leg and secure the second
+leg in place. The dowel should have glue placed on its ends, and, after
+the legs are in place, an inch brad should be driven into each leg,
+through the dowel, to hold it firmly in place.</p>
+
+<p>The color scheme given in the drawing is a pleasing one. The wheel is
+painted two coats of red before being placed in position.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CLOWN_RUNNING_WHEEL" id="CLOWN_RUNNING_WHEEL">CLOWN RUNNING WHEEL.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This has proven a very popular toy and is not hard to construct.</p>
+
+<p>The legs and body may be made of pulp or Beaver board, a material which
+is very good, as it saws easily and will not split. Wood, however, may
+be used, if preferred.</p>
+
+<p>The details of the body and legs are full size and these may be
+transferred to the wood by the tracing method described at the beginning
+of the book. These pieces, when done, may be painted, if desired, and
+allowed to dry while the rest of the parts are being made. Bore all
+necessary holes shown in the drawing.</p>
+
+<p>The wheels are best turned on a lathe to 4" in diameter and a hole bored
+in the center of each of a size that will allow a 1/4" dowel to fit
+tightly. If no lathe is available, the wheel can be cut out with a
+turning saw and finished with a chisel and file. The wheels are best
+made from 1/4" maple. Two pieces of 3/8" dowel are cut 1/4" long and
+attached 1/2" above the center of the wheel, as shown. This is done on
+both wheels, and the piece is attached with glue and 1/2" brads. It is a
+good plan to bore holes for these brads and thus prevent the possible
+splitting of the wood. The dowel that goes between the wheels is made
+1/4" &times; 3/4" and is glued securely in the holes in the wheels later.
+Another piece of 1/4" dowel is cut 4" long, and is fitted to support the
+body of the clown on the handle.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Clown_Wheel"><img src="images/i_158m.jpg" width = "800" height = "481" alt = "Running Clown A"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 48.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_159m.jpg" width = "359" height = "600" alt = "Running Clown B"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 49.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The handle is made 7/8" &times; 1-1/8" &times; 30", and the grip is rounded and
+shaped, as shown on <a href = "#Clown_Wheel">Plate 48</a>. In the opposite end of the handle a slot
+is cut 1/16" wide and 1-1/2" long. This is to receive the strip of zinc
+which runs between the wheels. This strip of zinc is made of 1/16"
+material, 1" wide and 4-1/2" long. Triangular pieces are cut from one
+end, 1/4" on a side, as shown on the detail sheet. This strip is held in
+the slot in the handle by first drilling through both the wood and the
+zinc, with a drill the size of a 3/4" brad, and afterwards gluing and
+bradding the zinc into position with 3/4" brads. A hole, 1/4" in
+diameter, is also drilled in the opposite end of the zinc, 5/8" from the
+end and 1/2" from the sides. This goes over the axle of the wheel.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored with a 1/4" bit, 2-3/8" from the end of the handle, as
+shown on <a href = "#Clown_Wheel">Plate 48</a>, and at an angle, as indicated.</p>
+
+<p>A similar hole is bored in the seat of the clown. The parts are now
+ready to sandpaper, paint, and after drying, assemble.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_161ma.jpg" width = "441" height = "600" alt = "Clown Running Wheel"/>
+<div class = "caption">Clown Running Wheel.</div>
+</div>
+<p><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_161mb.jpg" width = "387" height = "600" alt = "Cock Horse"/>
+<div class = "caption">Cock Horse.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The color scheme is given on the drawing. After the paint has dried, the
+lines where the various colors join, should be accented with a pen,
+using India ink.</p>
+
+<p>The upper legs of the clown are attached to the body with 1-1/2" copper
+rivets and the lower legs are held to the upper by 1/2" rivets. When
+putting the rivets in place, hold the end which has the washer against
+some hard, metal body and strike with a hammer, taking care<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> not to get
+the washer so tight that the legs will not move. A 3/4" No. 6 round-head
+screw holds the feet to the projecting dowel on the wheel. It is best to
+bore the hole for the screw in the piece of dowel a little smaller than
+the size of the screw so as to prevent splitting. Glue the supporting
+dowel in both the clown and the handle.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="COCK_HORSE" id="COCK_HORSE">COCK HORSE.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>The Cock Horse is a modern version of the old hobby horse, and affords
+the children, between the ages of four and six, unlimited pleasure.</p>
+
+<p>The head is made of a piece of 7/8" bass or pine, 5-1/2" wide and 9-1/2"
+long.</p>
+
+<p>The features may be enlarged from the size drawn in <a href = "#Horse_Cock">Plate 50</a>, by the
+method given at the beginning of the book for enlarging; or, if one is
+apt at free-hand drawing, the outline may be copied offhand.</p>
+
+<p>Cut the features out right to the line with a coping saw and smooth the
+edges and surfaces with No. 1/2 sandpaper.</p>
+
+<p>The stick is made 7/8" &times; 1" &times; 32", and the front end is chamfered 1/8".</p>
+
+<p>Holes are bored for 1-1/2" No. 10 flat-head screws, the first 1-3/4"
+from the front end and the other two 1-1/2" apart.</p>
+
+<p>Two smaller pieces, which are made 5/8" &times; 7/8" &times; 7-1/2", are to hold the
+wheel in position. Holes are bored in these two pieces to take 1-1/4"
+No. 8 round-head screws, the first one being 7/8" from the end and the
+next two 3/4" apart.</p>
+
+<p>On this same end a piece is cut off at an angle, as shown.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored at the opposite end of these two pieces to receive a
+2-1/2" &times; 1/4" round-head stove bolt, on which the wheel turns.</p>
+
+<p>The wheel is made 7/8" thick and 6" in diameter, either on a lathe or
+with a coping saw. A hole is bored in the center a little larger than
+the 1/4" &times; 2-1/2" stove bolt, so that the wheel will turn easily upon
+it.</p>
+
+<p>Glue and screw the two side pieces to the long stick, using 1-1/4"
+round-head blue screws. Give these two coats of natural varnish.</p>
+
+<p>Paint the wheel two coats of bright red.</p>
+
+<p>Paint the head one coat of flat white, and after drying give one or two
+coats of white enamel. After this has dried thoroughly, paint the comb
+and wattles bright red. Paint the beak and outer circle of the eyes
+yellow, and the feathers about the neck black. Where the colors join,
+outline with a drafting pen and India ink.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored, in the head where shown, to receive a piece of 3/4"
+dowel, 6" long. This serves as a handle. Glue this handle in place,
+taking care that it projects equally on both sides.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Horse_Cock"><img src="images/i_164m.jpg" width = "800" height = "480" alt = "Cock Horse"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 50.</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="ROCKING_ROOSTER" id="ROCKING_ROOSTER">ROCKING ROOSTER.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This very interesting action toy is especially suitable for children as
+young as two years of age. It is simple in construction and perfectly
+safe. (<a href = "#Rooster_Rock">Plate 51</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>The seat board is made 7/8" &times; 5" &times; 21". Measure 6" in from one end on
+both long edges, and at these points narrow the front end to 3-1/2" wide
+by sawing out a piece on both sides 1-1/4" wide.</p>
+
+<p>Round the corners where the taper comes, also the other four corners of
+the top. Similarly, round the upper edge of the top.</p>
+
+<p>The two rockers are made 7/8" &times; 4-1/2" &times; 18". Measure down 1/4" on the
+two ends, and from these points carefully sketch a free-hand curve with
+its highest point directly in the center of the lower edge. Be sure this
+curve balances equally and that the two rockers are exactly alike.</p>
+
+<p>The rooster's head is made 7/8" &times; 6" &times; 10-1/4" and the outline is
+sketched upon it similar to the one shown on the drawing.</p>
+
+<p>Cut out the features with a coping saw, taking pains to have the saw at
+right angles to the surface of the wood at all times.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored in the head, for the handle, about 3-3/4" from the top
+and 1-1/2" from the rear edge. A 3/4" bit is used.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_166m.jpg" width = "698" height = "600" alt = "Rocking Rooster"/>
+<div class = "caption">The Rocking Rooster is safe as well as interesting.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Be sure and bore this hole perfectly straight.</p>
+
+<p>The handle is made 6" long and 3/4" in diameter, shaping it as shown in
+the front view. If this cannot be turned on a lathe, the handle may be
+made from a 6" piece of 3/4" dowel, rounding the ends slightly with a
+file.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are now bored for the 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screws which hold the
+rockers and head to the top. The locations of these holes are clearly
+shown in the drawing. Countersink the holes on the side from which the
+screws enter.</p>
+
+<p>The little separating block, which goes between the rockers, is made
+7/8" &times; 1" &times; 2-1/2", and is held in place with glue.</p>
+
+<p>Sand all pieces thoroughly.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Rooster_Rock"><img src="images/i_167m.jpg" width = "800" height = "485" alt = "Rocking Rooster"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 51.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Assemble all pieces carefully, seeing that the rooster's head is
+centered well and placed two inches from the front end.</p>
+
+<p>The rockers are attached 1-1/2" from the ends and so placed that they
+are just an inch apart.</p>
+
+<p>Paint the whole toy one coat of flat white and sand lightly with No. 0
+sandpaper when dry. Paint in the comb and wattles of the rooster bright
+red and the feathers on the neck, green.</p>
+
+<p>After these colors have dried, apply another coat of white, where
+indicated, this time using white enamel. Use a small brush for the
+details. The beak and the circle about the eye are painted yellow and
+the other circle about the eye is painted black.</p>
+
+<p>If the paint does not seem to have the proper sparkle when the last coat
+is dry, apply another coat of each color. Outline the edge of the comb
+and wattles with a drafting pen and India ink. Outline also, the beak
+and eyes. This causes a sharp contrast where the two colors meet and
+sets off the features.</p>
+
+<p>The top and rockers are treated with two coats of white enamel on top of
+the priming coat.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="KIDDIE_KAR" id="KIDDIE_KAR">KIDDIE KAR.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>It is hardly necessary to speak of the popularity of this toy. Its
+construction is well within the ability of the average eighth grade boy.</p>
+
+<p>The seat board (<a href = "#Kid_Car">Plate 52</a>) is made of 7/8" stock and is first cut 7-1/2"
+wide and 21-1/2" long. Half the outline of the curve at the front should
+be traced on a folded piece of paper, the proper size, and cut out and
+traced on the wood. This outline should now be carefully sawed and
+chiseled to the correct shape.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_169m.jpg" width = "690" height = "600" alt = "Kiddie Kars"/>
+<div class = "caption">Kiddie Kars</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The top edge of the seat should be rounded.</p>
+
+<p>The rear support should have half its outline traced on a folded piece
+of paper and cut out and traced on a piece of wood 7/8" &times; 5" &times; 6-1/2".
+Finish to the line.</p>
+
+<p>The brace is cut 7/8" &times; 5" &times; 9-1/2".</p>
+
+<p>Mark out the outline of the curves, as shown, and saw and chisel to the
+line. The wheels and steering gear should be turned on a lathe to the
+dimensions shown on the drawing.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored in the seat board, 1-3/4" from the front end and half
+way between the sides, with a 15/16" bit. This is to allow the steering
+post, which is turned to 7/8" diameter, freedom to turn.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are drilled through the under part of the rear brace, as shown, to
+secure the same to the top. Holes are likewise bored half way between
+the sides of this brace, to engage with the curved supporting piece.</p>
+
+<p>The curved supporting piece has two holes bored 1-1/4" from the small
+end, 1" apart. This is for the screws that go into the top.</p>
+
+<p>Holes, bored with a small bit, should be started in the lower part of
+the rear brace, to receive the large screws which hold the rear wheels
+in place. It is quite necessary to make these holes, using a bit a
+trifle smaller than the screw to be used, as it is very difficult to
+force a screw of this size into wood of this hardness. These holes must
+be bored exactly straight, otherwise the wheels will turn unevenly.</p>
+
+<p>Washers should be used between the screw heads and the wheels and
+between the wheels and any part they are likely to come in contact with.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored in the steering rod, directly below the top board, for a
+screw to be placed to hold the upper and lower part of the steering rod
+firm. Glue is also used when assembling the two parts of the steering
+apparatus. The handle is also held in place with a screw and glue, as
+shown. A hole is bored in the handle, of a size suitable to receive the
+steering rod.</p>
+
+<p>Washers should be placed in the steering gear, above and below the seat
+board, to prevent wear.</p>
+
+<p>In preparing the slot to receive the front wheel, a hole should first be
+bored with an inch bit so that the top edge of the slot comes 3-5/8"
+from the bottom of the steering gear.</p>
+
+<p>This slot should be very carefully sawed out and smoothed up so that the
+wheel, which is 7/8" thick, will turn accurately.</p>
+
+<p>The holes in all the wheels must center accurately and be larger than
+the screw or bolt which goes through them. The front wheel turns on a
+1/4" &times; 1-3/4" round-head stove bolt.</p>
+
+<p>The color scheme may be varied to suit individual tastes.</p>
+
+<p>The one suggested in the drawing has red wheels with the remaining parts
+of the kiddie kar finished natural with spar varnish.</p>
+
+<p>All parts should be thoroughly sanded before assembling. Two coats of
+paint should be applied to the wheels and two coats of varnish to the
+remainder.</p>
+
+<p>Sand in between coats with No. 0 sandpaper.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Kid_Car"><img src="images/i_172m.jpg" width = "800" height = "491" alt = "Kiddie Kar"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 52.</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="KIDDIE_KOASTER" id="KIDDIE_KOASTER">KIDDIE KOASTER.</a></h2>
+
+<p>This lively toy is somewhat different from the three-wheeled Kiddie Kar
+and is suited for children of eight or over.</p>
+
+<p>If desired, this toy may be made up with three wheels like a velocipede.</p>
+
+<p>If this type is made, a piece of dowel rod, of hard wood, is cut about
+six or eight inches long and an inch in diameter. This dowel should go
+through a hole in the rear brace, and the wheels should be attached to
+the ends with 2" No. 12 round-head screws and washers.</p>
+
+<p>The following directions are for the two-wheel Kiddie Koaster shown in
+<a href = "#Coaster">Plate 53</a>.</p>
+
+<p>The front supporting piece is first made of a piece of hard wood, 2" &times;
+2-1/4" &times; 19". A distance of 7" is measured up from the lower end and
+7/8" is measured beyond this. From this point the remainder of the brace
+is thinned to one inch in thickness. The top end is rounded and the
+bottom end chamfered, as shown.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is carefully bored with an inch bit, 5-3/4" from the lower end.
+An allowance of 1/2" is made for the thickness of each fork and the
+remaining inch is removed with a saw up to the hole previously bored.</p>
+
+<p>A hole is bored for the handle, 1-1/4" from the top, with a 7/8" bit.
+Another hole is bored on each side, 6-1/4" from the lower end with a
+3/4" bit, 1/2" deep.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_174m.jpg" width = "396" height = "600" alt = "Kiddie Koaster"/>
+<div class = "caption">The Kiddie Koaster.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>These two holes are for the foot rests. Small holes are bored one inch
+from the lower end to receive a 1/4" &times; 2-1/2" round-head stove bolt. A
+1/4" bit should be used to bore these.</p>
+
+<p>The rear support is made 2" &times; 2-1/4" &times; 16-3/4". From a point 6-1/2" from
+the lower end this is thinned down to one inch thick, the same way as
+the front support. At the upper end measure down on one edge 7/8" and
+draw to the opposite corner.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Coaster"><img src="images/i_175m.jpg" width = "800" height = "481" alt = "Kiddie Koaster"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 53.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Cut off at this angle so that it will come on a line with the cross
+piece. A hole is bored with a 1/4" bit, one inch from the lower end to
+take a 1/4" &times; 2-1/2" round-head stove bolt.</p>
+
+<p>Chamfer 3/8" from the lower end.</p>
+
+<p>Bore a hole 4-3/4" from the lower end with an inch bit and remove the
+wood to form the rear fork, in the same manner as was done for the
+front.</p>
+
+<p>The cross piece between the front and rear support, on which the seat
+rests, is first made 7/8" x 5" x 13-1/8".</p>
+
+<p>Measure in two inches from the upper corner and draw a line to the lower
+corner. Saw squarely on this line to get the proper slant. Measure from
+this upper left-hand corner 9-1/2" and draw a line from here to the
+lower right-hand corner. Saw to this line. On this last end sawed,
+measure in 3/4" and make a tenon, as indicated in the side view. This
+tenon should be 1/2" thick. The other dimensions for the tenon are given
+on the drawing.</p>
+
+<p>On the rear support a mortise is now cut of a size to receive the tenon
+tightly, and to make the top edge of the cross piece and upper end of
+the rear support on a line.</p>
+
+<p>This tenon should be cut with a 1/2" bit, boring so as to make the
+mortise about 13/16" deep. Remove the extra wood with a small chisel
+until the tenon fits snugly within the mortise.</p>
+
+<p>Later, when assembling, this joint is glued and 3/4" brads are driven in
+from the side to pin it in place, as indicated.</p>
+
+<p>The seat is made 3/4" &times; 5" &times; 7". It is shaped, as shown in the sketch,
+cutting the outline with a turning saw and finishing to the line with a
+chisel and file. Two holes are bored and countersunk to receive 1-1/4"
+No. 8 flat-head screws which hold the seat in place.</p>
+
+<p>The seat is stuffed with tow, excelsior or other suitable material and
+covered with brown burlap or with imitation leather, as desired. A piece
+of braid, to match the material used, is tacked around the lower edge
+with upholstery tacks to match.</p>
+
+<p>The handles and foot rests are best turned out on a lathe, although they
+may be whittled out with a jack-knife. The dimensions for these are
+clearly shown.</p>
+
+<p>The front wheel is 9-1/2" in diameter, made from wood 3/4" thick. The
+rear wheel is 8" in diameter, the wood being 3/4" stock.</p>
+
+<p>These wheels should be made of hard wood or wood glued up three-ply.
+These are best turned on a lathe, although they may be cut with a
+turning saw and chiseled to the line and finished with a file.</p>
+
+<p>A special hinge may be obtained from most any toy<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> manufacturing firm,
+to place between the front support and the cross-piece. In the author's
+classes, hinges of this special type were obtained in various sizes,
+without any trouble. The size indicated in the drawing is five inches
+long and costs fourteen cents.</p>
+
+<p>If these special hinges are not used, the ordinary butt hinges may be
+substituted, two being used.</p>
+
+<p>A groove of the proper length and depth, to fit these hinges, can be
+drilled and chiseled out in the front brace. A saw cut can be made in
+the cross piece, across the end, in which to insert the hinge. When
+assembled, screws should be placed so as to accurately engage with the
+screw holes in the hinges.</p>
+
+<p>Before assembling, all pieces should be thoroughly sanded and painted
+two coats.</p>
+
+<p>A suggested color scheme is given on the drawing.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="SKI_SKOOTER" id="SKI_SKOOTER">SKI SKOOTER.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>The Ski Skooter, shown on <a href = "#Skooter_Ski">Plate 54</a>, is best made of ash.</p>
+
+<p>The runner is first made 5/8" &times; 3-3/8" &times; 39" and thinned down, for ten
+inches from the front end, to 3/8" thick.</p>
+
+<p>The runner is steamed, bent and grooved by the method shown in Plate 55.</p>
+
+<p>The upright piece is made 7/8" &times; 3-1/8" &times; 16-1/8" and one of the bracing
+pieces 7/8" &times; 1-3/8" &times; 12" and the other 7/8" &times; 1-3/8" &times; 13". These are
+cut at an angle of 45 degrees at each end, as shown.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_179m.jpg" width = "376" height = "600" alt = "Ski Skooter"/>
+<div class = "caption">The Ski Skooter is great sport on a moderate hill.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The seat is made 7/8" &times; 6" &times; 12", and the top edges are slightly
+rounded.</p>
+
+<p>Two grips, which also have their lower edges rounded, are made 3/4" &times;
+7/8" &times; 5".</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Skooter_Ski"><img src="images/i_180m.jpg" width = "800" height = "484" alt = "Ski Skooter"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 54.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Ski_Bend"><img src="images/i_181m.jpg" width = "800" height = "492" alt = "Bending Runners"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 55.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Two strengthening pieces are made 7/8" &times; 7/8" &times; 3-1/8" and their ends
+are cut at 45 degrees, as shown. These are attached to the upright
+directly under the seat.</p>
+
+<p>Bore all holes, where shown in the drawing, and countersink them.
+Assemble with glue and screws of a size shown on the drawing.</p>
+
+<p>The color scheme is given on the drawing, but may be changed to suit
+individual tastes. Two coats of paint are applied, sanding carefully
+between coats.</p>
+
+<p>The seat can be upholstered if desired.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="METHOD_OF_BENDING_RUNNERS" id="METHOD_OF_BENDING_RUNNERS">METHOD OF BENDING RUNNERS.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>Place the ends in a washboiler, about half full of boiling water, and
+allow them to remain about five hours.</p>
+
+<p>Place the tip, or front end of the runners, under the back edge of the
+top step of a step ladder. Slowly bend the runner downward until it lays
+flat on the front edges of the other steps.</p>
+
+<p>Secure this in place either with clamps or by pieces of rope and wood.
+<a href = "#Ski_Bend">Plate 55</a> shows two methods of bending the runners. Regular skis may be
+bent in the same manner.</p>
+
+<p>Leave the runners in the clamps overnight.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="SKI_SKIPPERS" id="SKI_SKIPPERS">SKI SKIPPERS.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>The Ski Skipper affords a lively form of winter amusement, and great
+speed can be obtained on the surface of the snow, especially when the
+crust is covered with a small amount of light snow.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_183m.jpg" width = "410" height = "600" alt = "For Boys and Girls"/>
+<div class = "caption">The Ski Skipper will please boys as well as girls.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The runners are best made of white ash, from half-inch material, 2-3/4"
+wide and 42" long. (<a href = "#Skipper_Ski">Plate 56</a>.)</p>
+
+<p>The front end of the runners is tapered, starting about five inches from
+the end. The extreme tips are blunt, being 1/2" wide.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Skipper_Ski"><img src="images/i_184m.jpg" width = "800" height = "484" alt = "Ski Skipper"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 56.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Starting about twelve inches from the front end, the runners are thinned
+down with a plane, on the upper surface, to 3/8" thick.</p>
+
+<p>Both runners have a groove cut along their counters from the rear end to
+the point where they curve upward.</p>
+
+<p>This groove is 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide, and may be cut by various
+methods. It may be cut with a grooving plane; it may be scored with a
+sharp-pointed gauge and the inner part removed with a chisel; or, if a
+power saw is available, it may be easily cut with a dado saw.</p>
+
+<p>The upper edge of the runners may be chamfered about 1/8" for a finish.
+When the foregoing operations are completed, the runners should be bent,
+using the method shown in <a href = "#Ski_Bend">Plate 55</a>.</p>
+
+<p>The slats forming the seat top are now made 1/2" &times; 2-1/2" &times; 12", and the
+single slat for the foot rest 1/2" &times; 1-1/2" &times; 12".</p>
+
+<p>The seat slats have holes bored and countersunk 3/4" from the edges and
+1-1/4" from the ends, to receive 1" No. 8 flat-head screws. The foot
+slat has a similar hole bored 1-1/4" from the ends and centered between
+the edges.</p>
+
+<p>The seat supports are first cut 7/8" &times; 7-1/2" &times; 9-1/2" and then an inch
+is measured in on the top edge on each side and lines are drawn to the
+lower corners, as shown. Saw and plane to this line, making the taper as
+shown in the side view. The cross brace is made 7/8" &times; 3" &times; 9".</p>
+
+<p>The supports for the foot rests are first made 7/8" &times; 3" &times; 3-1/2". On
+the upper edge, which is 3-1/2" long, measure in 3/8" from each end and
+draw the sloping lines to the lower corners, making the taper, as
+indicated. Round these upper corners.</p>
+
+<p>Bore holes in the runners for attaching the uprights at places where
+they will engage with the uprights, at points shown on the drawing.
+There should be three screws in each large upright and two in the
+smaller front support. Assemble with glue and 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head
+screws at all places except where the cross slats are held. At these
+points 1" No. 8 flat-head screws will be long enough.</p>
+
+<p>It will be noticed, in examining the top and front views, that the
+supporting uprights are not placed directly half way between the edges
+of the skis, but are offset so that they come nearer the outside edge of
+the runner. This is done so that the screw will not come in the groove.</p>
+
+<p>Two blocks of wood to hold the screw eyes, to which the rope is
+attached, are made from 1/2" material, 1-1/2" square.</p>
+
+<p>Two holes are bored in these blocks, as shown, and they are attached
+eight inches from the front end of the runner with 3/4" No. 6 round-head
+screws. A screw eye<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span> is placed in each block, of a size sufficient to
+receive a 3/8" rope.</p>
+
+<p>It is best to bore the hole for the screw eye first, in order to prevent
+splitting the block.</p>
+
+<p>A suggested color scheme is shown in the drawing. Two coats of paint
+should be applied.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="DOLL_SLEIGH" id="DOLL_SLEIGH">DOLL SLEIGH.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>While this drawing (<a href = "#Sleigh4Doll">Plate 57</a>), to all intents and purposes details a
+doll sleigh, yet by increasing the dimensions slightly the sleigh will
+be suitable for a small child.</p>
+
+<p>First, make the runners of 1/2" spruce, or other suitable wood, cutting
+them 9" wide by 26" long.</p>
+
+<p>On the upper edge measure back 1-1/2" and from this point draw to the
+corner of the lower edge. Saw to this line and slightly round the
+corners, as shown. With the dividers set at a radius of 4-1/2", strike a
+circle very lightly on the opposite end of the runners, so that it will
+be just tangent to the edges and end of the board. Measure up from the
+lower edge of the runner 7-1/2" and draw a line parallel to it until it
+strikes the circle. Cut to this line and also saw to the curve of the
+circle, forming the outline of the runner. Finish to the line with a
+chisel and file. See that the two runners are exact duplicates. Bevel
+slightly on the top edge to allow the runners to flare.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_188m.jpg" width = "463" height = "600" alt = "Doll Sleigh"/>
+<div class = "caption">The Doll Sleigh may be made larger to carry a baby brother or sister.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Next make the sleigh bottom 1/2" &times; 10" &times; 16-1/2". Two braces, to go
+below the sleigh bottom, are made 1/2" &times; 3" &times; 8-1/2".</p>
+
+<p>These braces are cut at an angle at each end, as shown. The angle is
+obtained by measuring in 3/8" on one edge and drawing to the opposite
+lower corner from this point and sawing to the line.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The sides of the sleigh are made 1/2" &times; 8" &times; 22". On the top edge
+measure in 7-3/4" and place a dot. Measure down from the right-hand
+lower corner of the sides 4-1/2" and from this point, draw to the
+right-hand upper corner.</p>
+
+<p>From the left-hand lower corner measure in 1-3/4" and place a dot. From
+the same corner measure up on the left-hand edge six inches and make
+another dot. Connect these two dots to form the slope of the front end.
+From the last dot placed, square a line in from the left-hand edge
+1-3/4" long. From this point sketch a free-hand curve, as is shown in
+the side view of the sleigh (<a href = "#Sleigh4Doll">Plate 57</a>) to the point first located on the
+upper edge. Cut to the outline, being sure both sides match.</p>
+
+<p>The front edge of the sleigh is made 1/2" &times; 6" &times; 11" and the rear end
+1/2" &times; 9" &times; 11-1/2". On the lower edge of the rear end measure in 1-5/8"
+from each corner and draw to the upper opposite corners. Saw and plane
+to these lines. This will give the taper of the rear end.</p>
+
+<p>Place the board from which the front is to be cut on the backboard and
+trace the slope of the sides and carefully finish to the line.</p>
+
+<p>The two handles are made 7/8" &times; 1-1/4" &times; 23-1/2", and the top piece, or
+grip, 1" &times; 1-1/4" &times; 19".</p>
+
+<p>The uprights are mortised into the grips 5/8", as shown on the drawing.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are bored in the center of the curve of the runners with a
+medium-size drill, and at these points an inch dowel is cut long enough
+to fit snugly between the runners, after the sleigh is assembled. The
+ends of the dowel are cut at a slope to conform to the pitch of the
+runners. This dowel is held with glue and 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head
+screws.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are bored, where indicated in the side view (<a href = "#Sleigh4Doll">Plate 57</a>), to hold
+the brace in place. Holes are also bored in the handles to attach to the
+body of sleigh at places most convenient.</p>
+
+<p>Holes are bored in the sleigh bottom to attach the same to the cross
+braces, using 1" No. 6 flat-head screws. Use 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head
+screws on the outside of the runners. The handles are attached with
+3/16" &times; 1-1/2" round-head stove bolts. All other parts should be secured
+with glue and three-penny fine finish nails.</p>
+
+<p>If desired the bottom of the runners may be covered with 1/2" strap
+iron.</p>
+
+<p>Various finishes may be used after the parts are thoroughly sanded. If
+stain is to be the finish, apply it according to the directions in the
+front of the book and, after drying eight or ten hours, apply two coats
+of shellac. Sand between coats with No. 0 sandpaper. After the last coat
+of shellac is dry apply one coat of spar varnish.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Sleigh4Doll"><img src="images/i_191m.jpg" width = "800" height = "484" alt = "Doll's Sleigh"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 57.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>If paint is to be used as the finishing material, decide on the color
+scheme and apply first a priming coat of flat white, after which one or
+two finish coats may be applied when dry, sanding lightly between each
+coat.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CHILDS_TABLE" id="CHILDS_TABLE">CHILD'S TABLE.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>This is a very useful and practical problem and has been made up in
+large numbers by seventh and eighth grade boys.</p>
+
+<p>The chair shown in <a href = "#Chair4Child">Plate 59</a> fits compactly under the table and takes up
+but little room.</p>
+
+<p>The top is joined by gluing several boards together and finishes 30" in
+diameter. Basswood, 7/8" thick, is very good material to use. The boards
+must be carefully jointed and held together with 1/2" dowels. Hot glue
+is the best to use, although the cold glue will answer. Leave the pieces
+in the clamps overnight. The top may be cut to shape with a turning saw
+and finished to the line with a sharp chisel and file.</p>
+
+<p>The four legs are 7/8" &times; 1-3/8" &times; 20-3/8". Two cleats, which are screwed
+to the underside of the table, are next made, these being 7/8" &times; 3" &times;
+24".</p>
+
+<p>These cross each other in the middle with a middle lap joint, as
+indicated at A, on the drawing. A notch is cut on the ends of these
+braces at C, as shown, to receive the legs.</p>
+
+<p>The legs are held in place with glue and 1-3/4" No. 10 round-head blue
+screws.</p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter"><img src="images/i_193m.jpg" width = "724" height = "600" alt = "Tables and Chairs"/>
+<div class = "caption">Children's Table and Chairs.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The braces are attached to the top of the table with a sufficient number
+of 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws to insure a strong job.</p>
+
+<p>The legs are notched 3/8" deep, 7" up from the bottom, to receive the
+lower leg braces. See sketch B, <a href = "#Table4Child">Plate 58</a>. These lower braces are 3/4" &times;
+1-3/8" &times; 23", joined at their center with a middle lap joint, the same
+as the top braces, and are held in the notch in the legs with glue and
+1-1/2" round-head screws.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Table4Child"><img src="images/i_194m.jpg" width = "800" height = "480" alt = "Child's Table"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 58.</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>All parts should be carefully sandpapered, first with No. 1 sandpaper
+and then finished with No. 0.</p>
+
+<p>The final finish is optional. It may be stained and varnished or it may
+be finished in enamel.</p>
+
+<p>If enamel is used there should first be a couple of coats of flat white
+applied, each coat being sanded when dry, with No. 0 sandpaper, and the
+final coat of enamel applied.</p>
+
+<p>Some appropriate design, in a grayed color, may be put on with stencil
+if desired.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="CHILDS_CHAIR" id="CHILDS_CHAIR">CHILD'S CHAIR.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p><a href = "#Chair4Child">Plate 59</a> gives directions for making the chairs to match the table in
+<a href = "#Table4Child">Plate 58</a>.</p>
+
+<p>The rear legs should first be cut out of 7/8" stock, 1-1/8" wide and 25"
+long. The two connecting rails are 1-1/8" &times; 9-5/8". The lower rail is
+notched into both front and rear legs, 6" from the lower ends, 3/8"
+deep.</p>
+
+<p>The upper rail, on which the seat rests, is notched in 3/8" deep, and 4"
+above the lower rail. The pieces so far completed may now be sanded and
+assembled, using glue and 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head screws.</p>
+
+<p>It is well to reinforce the joints by driving an eight-penny finish nail
+each side of the screws. These should be set below the surface, and the
+hole should be filled with hard beeswax before painting.</p>
+
+<p>While this is drying, the front and rear rails can be made.</p>
+
+<p>These rails, five in number, are all 7/8" &times; 1-1/8" &times; 8-1/4".</p>
+
+<p>The wide back rail is made of 1/2" material, 4-1/2" wide by 8-1/4" long.</p>
+
+<p>Holes should next be bored for the various screws, where indicated on
+the drawing.</p>
+
+<p>A cross cleat, which runs between the upper side rails and helps support
+the seat, is made 7/8" &times; 3" &times; 8-1/4". This is attached, as shown in the
+sketch of the joinery of the legs and rails, and is screwed to the under
+side of the seat with 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws.</p>
+
+<p>The seat is made 7/8" &times; 10" &times; 11-1/2" and is notched at the corners to
+receive the rear legs. The top is rounded slightly on its rear edges.</p>
+
+<p>Next assemble the two sides with glue and screws of proper size, as
+shown. All surfaces should be carefully sanded and the finish should be
+treated as described for the table.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<div class = "figcenter" id = "Chair4Child"><img src="images/i_197m.jpg" width = "800" height = "478" alt = "Child's Chair"/>
+<div class = "caption">Plate 59.</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX">INDEX</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>
+Adapting the Problem to the Boy's Ability, <a href = "#Page_15">15</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Bean Bag Game, <a href = "#Page_72">72-4</a><br />
+<br />
+Bench Hook, <a href = "#Page_22">22-4</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Camel, <a href = "#Page_38">38</a><br />
+<br />
+Child's Cart, <a href = "#Page_93">93-5</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chair, <a href = "#Page_130">130-1</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dump Wagon, <a href = "#Page_95">95-9</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Snow Shovel, <a href = "#Page_46">46-7</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Step Ladder, <a href = "#Page_59">59-63</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Table, <a href = "#Page_128">128-30</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wash Bench, <a href = "#Page_57">57-9</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wheelbarrow (Type A), <a href = "#Page_99">99-103</a>, (Type B), <a href = "#Page_102">102-5</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Clown Running Wheel, <a href = "#Page_105">105-9</a><br />
+<br />
+Cock Horse, <a href = "#Page_109">109-10</a><br />
+<br />
+Colonial Doll's Chair, <a href = "#Page_66">66-7</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cradle, <a href = "#Page_87">87-9</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Table, <a href = "#Page_64">64-6</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Coping Saw Work, <a href = "#Page_26">26-7</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Darts, <a href = "#Page_75">75-7</a><br />
+<br />
+Dart Board Game, <a href = "#Page_74">74-6</a><br />
+<br />
+Dippy Duck, <a href = "#Page_40">40-1</a><br />
+<br />
+Doll's Bed, <a href = "#Page_89">89-91</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Clothes Rack, <a href = "#Page_55">55-7</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cradle, <a href = "#Page_84">84-7</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ironing Board (Size A), <a href = "#Page_49">49-51</a>, (Size B), <a href = "#Page_51">51-3</a>, (Size C), <a href = "#Page_53">53-5</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sleigh, <a href = "#Page_125">125-8</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Table with Drawer, <a href = "#Page_62">62-4</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Dowel Sticks, <a href = "#Page_27">27</a><br />
+<br />
+Duck, <a href = "#Page_30">30</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Elephant, <a href = "#Page_33">33</a><br />
+<br />
+Equipment, <a href = "#Page_13">13-4</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Finish and Color, <a href = "#Page_15">15-7</a><br />
+<br />
+Five Post Ring Toss, <a href = "#Page_68">68-72</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Goat, <a href = "#Page_36">36</a><br />
+<br />
+Goose, <a href = "#Page_31">31</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+History of Toy-Making, <a href = "#Page_11">11-3</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Kiddie Kar, <a href = "#Page_113">113-15</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Koaster, <a href = "#Page_116">116-19</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Lamb, <a href = "#Page_35">35</a><br />
+<br />
+Laying Out Work, <a href = "#Page_14">14</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Merrimac, <a href = "#Page_44">44-5</a><br />
+<br />
+Method of Bending Runners, <a href = "#Page_121">121-2</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of Enlarging Figures, <a href = "#Page_39">39-40</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of Jointing Wood, <a href = "#Page_18">18-20</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Monitor, <a href = "#Page_42">42-3</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Pelican, <a href = "#Page_29">29</a><br />
+<br />
+Periscope, <a href = "#Page_47">47-8</a><br />
+<br />
+Picture Puzzle Construction, <a href = "#Page_27">27-8</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Rabbit, <a href = "#Page_34">34</a><br />
+<br />
+Rhinoceros, <a href = "#Page_32">32</a><br />
+<br />
+Ring-The-Hook Game, <a href = "#Page_68">68-9</a><br />
+<br />
+Rocking Rooster, <a href = "#Page_111">111-13</a><br />
+<br />
+Rooster, <a href = "#Page_37">37</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Sand or Water Mill, <a href = "#Page_82">82-4</a><br />
+<br />
+Simple Tool Sharpening, <a href = "#Page_24">24-6</a><br />
+<br />
+Ski Skippers, <a href = "#Page_122">122-5</a><br />
+<br />
+Ski Skooter, <a href = "#Page_119">119-22</a><br />
+<br />
+Staining, <a href = "#Page_17">17-8</a><br />
+<br />
+Support to be Held in Vise, <a href = "#Page_20">20-2</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">for Holding Coping Saw Work, <a href = "#Page_20">20</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">for Table Use, <a href = "#Page_22">22</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Transferring a Design, <a href = "#Page_14">14-5</a><br />
+<br />
+Two Types of Stilts, <a href = "#Page_91">91-3</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Wind Mill, <a href = "#Page_77">77-80</a>; (Type B) <a href = "#Page_80">80-2</a><br />
+</p>
+
+<div class = "transnote"><div class = "center">Transcribers Note.</div>
+<p class = "center">Inconsistency in hyphenation is as in the original.</p>
+<p class = "center">"heighth" was changed to "height".</p>
+<p class = "center">"Sonnenburg" was changed to "Sonnenberg"</p>
+<p class = "center">Titles of Plate illustrations were taken from drawings with inconsistent
+punctuation and this was systematised. </p>
+<p class = "center">Otherwise very few minor typographical errors have been corrected.</p></div>
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Toy Craft, by Leon H. Baxter
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TOY CRAFT ***
+
+***** This file should be named 44501-h.htm or 44501-h.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        http://www.gutenberg.org/4/4/5/0/44501/
+
+Produced by Chris Curnow, Paul Mitchell and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive)
+
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at
+  www.gutenberg.org/license.
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation information page at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at 809
+North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887.  Email
+contact links and up to date contact information can be found at the
+Foundation's web site and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations.
+To donate, please visit:  www.gutenberg.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For forty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/cover.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/cover.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1ef7d41
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/cover.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_004m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_004m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..82378b6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_004m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_014ma.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_014ma.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..db59257
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_014ma.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_014mb.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_014mb.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..bfd46fa
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_014mb.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_014mc.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_014mc.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..17c9494
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_014mc.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_014md.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_014md.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..700f89a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_014md.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_026m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_026m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c376357
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_026m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_031m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_031m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5979b5d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_031m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_033m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_033m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f75723b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_033m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_034m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_034m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..039fef7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_034m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_037m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_037m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6e6efee
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_037m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_040m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_040m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e0dd417
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_040m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_042m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_042m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ddd667c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_042m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_045m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_045m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8b390ed
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_045m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_046m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_046m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f387029
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_046m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_047m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_047m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d2bd8b4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_047m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_048m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_048m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f4d9240
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_048m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_049m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_049m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c9fbe46
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_049m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_050m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_050m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..06af51b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_050m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_051m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_051m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..716c027
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_051m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_052m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_052m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4cf6f85
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_052m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_053m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_053m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e8f1ef3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_053m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_054m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_054m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..40c8af5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_054m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_055m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_055m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d50461e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_055m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_056m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_056m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3811b85
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_056m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_059m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_059m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..dfeead3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_059m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_060m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_060m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5768453
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_060m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_062m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_062m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..756c99a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_062m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_063m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_063m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..eda6dc2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_063m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_066m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_066m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..24c5b96
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_066m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_069m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_069m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7ea16b2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_069m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_070m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_070m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..79cbc82
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_070m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_071m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_071m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7063a59
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_071m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_072m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_072m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0d82a5d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_072m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_075m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_075m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d340107
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_075m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_078m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_078m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..752750a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_078m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_080m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_080m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4242803
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_080m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_081m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_081m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0ccb148
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_081m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_084m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_084m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..435b70f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_084m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_087m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_087m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4244488
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_087m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_090m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_090m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7a1cc41
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_090m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_095m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_095m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..388c516
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_095m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_098m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_098m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..afe429e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_098m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_101m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_101m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..de80d6f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_101m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_102m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_102m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..32955ab
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_102m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_104m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_104m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1767382
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_104m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_106m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_106m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..80e8699
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_106m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_107m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_107m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c48c51a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_107m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_110m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_110m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4fdf11e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_110m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_112m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_112m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..de73e3f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_112m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_114m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_114m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7a75420
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_114m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_115m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_115m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..23e6a0f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_115m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_120m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_120m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e4eea2c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_120m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_123m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_123m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..79c6281
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_123m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_126m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_126m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0743a54
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_126m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_128m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_128m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7bc6bc1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_128m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_131m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_131m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a9b74c0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_131m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_134m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_134m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c6fea51
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_134m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_136m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_136m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9b3adec
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_136m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_137m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_137m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d1bfa6d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_137m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_139m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_139m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..076199a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_139m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_140m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_140m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..835397a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_140m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_143m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_143m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f4c8841
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_143m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_146m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_146m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6613f08
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_146m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_150m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_150m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..febe504
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_150m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_151m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_151m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..16f9a31
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_151m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_152m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_152m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..77de3e6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_152m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_155m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_155m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ed71ce1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_155m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_158m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_158m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..943edca
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_158m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_159m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_159m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9e4b2aa
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_159m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_161ma.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_161ma.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8833d89
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_161ma.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_161mb.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_161mb.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1475d9d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_161mb.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_164m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_164m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4036005
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_164m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_166m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_166m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..744226f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_166m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_167m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_167m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0a6035a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_167m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_169m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_169m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..21ad4c8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_169m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_172m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_172m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5e110c0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_172m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_174m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_174m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..12795ba
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_174m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_175m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_175m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..eb91fe8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_175m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_179m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_179m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4814037
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_179m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_180m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_180m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d806379
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_180m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_181m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_181m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..05ea46b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_181m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_183m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_183m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4dc3be9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_183m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_184m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_184m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3b22b03
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_184m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_188m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_188m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..33f4fab
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_188m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_191m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_191m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..aefbe0b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_191m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_193m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_193m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ec0ba84
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_193m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_194m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_194m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4b8023e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_194m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501-h/images/i_197m.jpg b/old/44501-h/images/i_197m.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a844d50
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501-h/images/i_197m.jpg
diff --git a/old/44501.txt b/old/44501.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9c01194
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,4331 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Toy Craft, by Leon H. Baxter
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Toy Craft
+
+Author: Leon H. Baxter
+
+Release Date: December 24, 2013 [EBook #44501]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TOY CRAFT ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chris Curnow, Paul Mitchell and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  TOY CRAFT
+
+
+
+
+  TOY CRAFT
+
+
+  LEON H. BAXTER
+  Director of Manual Training, Public Schools
+  ST. JOHNSBURY, VT.
+
+  Author of Boy Bird House Architecture, and Elementary Concrete Construction
+
+  [Illustration]
+
+  THE BRUCE PUBLISHING COMPANY
+  MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN
+
+
+  Copyright 1922
+  The Bruce Publishing Company
+  Printed in the United States of America
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY NOTES
+
+
+The purpose of such a book as Mr. Baxter's "Toy Craft" is to furnish
+definite instructions for the making of toys for boys and girls by the
+children themselves. Miniature furniture, wooden dolls, carts and
+animals--of how much greater value is one such plaything actually put
+together by a child than any number of toys made in a factory or
+imported from some foreign country? Truly a step forward has been taken
+in putting before the people a book which will unconsciously instill in
+the minds of the children the value of the hand-made in preference to
+the machine-made article.
+
+Not only is Mr. Baxter peculiarly fitted to publish such a volume as
+"Toy Craft" in the light of his knowledge of manual training, but also
+because of his understanding of the spirit behind the production of
+toys, which bring such joy to the hearts of boys and girls.
+
+To the satisfaction of actually making some wooden cart, or bird, or
+animal may be added the happiness of doing the work for some other
+child. It is this vision of service for others which Mr. Baxter has
+already caught and demonstrated, and we feel sure that this little
+volume will do much to promote the improved individual construction of
+toys by children, at the same time instilling into the hearts of the
+boys the joy of making something for somebody else, of experiencing the
+truth, "It is more blessed to give than to receive."
+
+  MABEL E. TURNER,
+  Field Representative for Junior Service,
+  New England Division, American Red Cross.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+One of the hard problems in manual training, for boys up to twelve years
+of age, is to find worth-while things to make, within the capacity of
+boys of this age. Having been engaged in this kind of work for over
+twenty years I can appreciate the problems of the manual training
+instructor in the grades.
+
+After carefully examining the cuts and directions for the various
+projects as given in "Toy Craft," and having seen the boys at work, as
+well as the completed articles, in Mr. Baxter's department, I can
+readily see how the great interest that is inspired in the boys is
+derived.
+
+I heartily commend this book to all manual training teachers as a great
+help in the solution of their problems with boys.
+
+  STANLEY J. STEWARD, M. E.,
+  Director, St. Johnsbury Vocational School.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+Each year American parents spend millions of dollars for toys for the
+children. In a short time a large part of these toys are broken, and lie
+in the corner or the back yard. This is because of the destructive
+habits children have developed. These same habits have been formed
+because, since birth, toys have cost these children nothing.
+
+Children, like grown-ups, value things and form habits in proportion to
+the cost to them. They break up what costs them nothing, and cherish and
+keep repaired what they, themselves, have made or purchased with
+self-denial or self-earned money.
+
+The breaking of toys is bad, but the effect upon the character of the
+child is infinitely worse. Destructive tendencies are developed, while
+constructive ability is allowed to lie dormant and inactive.
+
+The remedy for this is to develop the constructive rather than the
+destructive in children by buying them working outfits and books of
+instruction with which they can make and repair things for themselves.
+In other words, buy tools, equipment and supplies rather than finished
+toys. Carlisle said, "Man without tools is nothing; man with tools is
+all." Education is to children what civilization is to the race.
+
+What to buy for each particular child depends upon the age and
+tendencies of the child and is a matter parents must determine for
+themselves. The important test is, "Is it something that the child can
+use to make things for himself, for others and for the home?"
+
+When purchasing tools it is an excellent plan to leave some part of the
+outfit for the children to make or to buy from money they themselves
+have earned. In other words, co-operate with the children instead of
+doing it all for them.
+
+The writer speaks not only from the teacher's point of view, but from
+the parent's as well. The problems offered in this book are not only
+within the capabilities of the average child, but are all tested and
+proven as being worth-while and appealing strongly to the child's ideals
+and imagination.
+
+  LEON H. BAXTER.
+
+  St. Johnsbury, Vt.
+
+
+
+
+  TABLE OF CONTENTS
+
+
+                                              Page
+
+  History of Toy-Making                       11-3
+
+  Equipment                                   13-4
+
+  Laying Out Work                             14
+
+  Transferring a Design                       14-5
+
+  Adapting the Problem to the Boy's Ability   15
+
+  Finish and Color                            15-7
+
+  Staining                                    17-8
+
+  Method of Jointing Wood                     18-20
+
+  Supports for Holding Coping Saw Work        20
+
+  Support to be Held in Vise                  20-2
+
+  Supports for Table Use                      22
+
+  The Bench Hook                              22-4
+
+  Simple Tool Sharpening                      24-6
+
+  Coping Saw Work                             26-7
+
+  Dowel Sticks                                27
+
+  Picture Puzzle Construction                 27-8
+
+  Pelican                                     29
+
+  Duck                                        30
+
+  Goose                                       31
+
+  Rhinoceros                                  32
+
+  Elephant                                    33
+
+  Rabbit                                      34
+
+  Lamb                                        35
+
+  Goat                                        36
+
+  Rooster                                     37
+
+  Camel                                       38
+
+  Method of Enlarging Figures                 39-40
+
+  Dippy Duck                                  40-1
+
+  Monitor                                     42-3
+
+  Merrimac                                    44-5
+
+  Child's Snow Shovel                         46-7
+
+  The Periscope                               47-8
+
+  Doll's Ironing Board (Size A)               49-51
+
+  Doll's Ironing Board (Size B)               51-3
+
+  Doll's Ironing Board (Size C)               53-5
+
+  Doll's Clothes Rack                         55-7
+
+  Child's Wash Bench                          57-9
+
+  Child's Step Ladder                         59-63
+
+  Doll's Table with Drawer                    62-4
+
+  Colonial Doll's Table                       64-6
+
+  Colonial Doll's Chair                       66-7
+
+  Ring-The-Hook Game                          68-9
+
+  Five Post Ring Toss                         68-72
+
+  Bean Bag Game                               72-4
+
+  Dart Board Game                             74-6
+
+  Darts                                       75-7
+
+  Wind Mill                                   77-80
+
+  Wind Mill (Type B)                          80-2
+
+  Sand or Water Mill                          82-4
+
+  Doll's Cradle                               84-7
+
+  Colonial Doll Cradle                        87-9
+
+  Doll's Bed                                  89-91
+
+  Two Types of Stilts                         91-3
+
+  Child's Cart                                93-5
+
+  Child's Dump Wagon                          95-9
+
+  Child's Wheelbarrow (Type A)                99-103
+
+  Child's Wheelbarrow (Type B)                102-5
+
+  Clown Running Wheel                         105-9
+
+  Cock Horse                                  109-10
+
+  Rocking Rooster                             111-13
+
+  Kiddie Kar                                  113-15
+
+  Kiddie Koaster                              116-19
+
+  Ski Skooter                                 119-22
+
+  Method of Bending Runners                   121-2
+
+  Ski Skippers                                122-5
+
+  Doll Sleigh                                 125-8
+
+  Child's Table                               128-30
+
+  Child's Chair                               130-1
+
+[Illustration: Girls Making Toys for a Red Cross Christmas Sale.]
+
+[Illustration: A Christmas Sale of Toys for the Red Cross.]
+
+[Illustration: Boy Toy Makers and Some of their Products.]
+
+[Illustration: Making Toys in the School Shop.]
+
+
+
+
+TOY CRAFT
+
+
+
+
+HISTORY OF TOY-MAKING.
+
+
+To tell the history of toy-making from its earliest days it would be
+necessary to follow the story back through many centuries, for the
+archaeologists, in delving among the tombs of ancient Greece and Egypt,
+have made the surprising discovery that children played with dolls, and
+jointed dolls at that, more than five thousand years ago.
+
+Moreover, by the side of these dolls scientists have unearthed other
+playthings that children still crave: doll's furniture, animal toys and
+toys with wheels, illustrating the methods of transportation of those
+early days.
+
+These same scientists claim that the custom of playing with dolls and
+other toys is as old as the world itself and that playthings are, and
+always have been, just as necessary a constituent of human health and
+development as either food or medicine.
+
+They claim that the reason that boys and girls crave toys is that nature
+requires them, and to deprive children of such playthings would be to
+retard their mental growth and development.
+
+The Latin word =trochus= means a hoop for children. The hoops of Roman
+children were made of bronze and iron and were rolled by a sort of a
+crooked stick and sometimes had small bells attached.
+
+=Pupa=, the Latin word meaning "a little girl," applies to dolls which
+were made from rags, wood, wax, ivory and terra cotta. When the Greek
+girls of that time married they dedicated their dolls to Artemis; the
+Roman girls, to Venus; but, if they died before marriage, their dolls
+were buried with them.
+
+The Latin word =crepundia= meant children's playthings, such as rattles,
+dolls, toy hatchets and swords.
+
+The toys made during the middle ages for the children of noble families
+and rich merchants, show special care and fine workmanship. Many of them
+were of a religious nature in the form of the Cross of the Crusaders, or
+military in origin, like miniature knights on horseback. The toys of
+this period were generally carved by goldsmiths.
+
+The American Indians and the Esquimaux made dolls from bits of skin and
+fur of wild animals and gaily decorated them with shells, beads and
+feathers. They also carved small models of animals and human beings from
+wood and bone.
+
+The oldest European toy manufacturing center is Nuremberg, Germany. This
+town is especially noted for its metal playthings, like the lead
+soldiers, which were the delight of our childhood. Sonneburg, in
+Germany, is the greatest European center for the manufacture of wooden
+toys.
+
+Winchendon, Mass., is the greatest toy manufacturing center in the
+United States, nearly every enterprise in that town being toy-making.
+
+In spite of the early origin of toys the progress of manufacturing
+playthings has been so slow that, even as late as one hundred years ago,
+the types of toys were few in number, simple in construction and
+extremely expensive, especially in the United States.
+
+There was no systematic manufacture of such articles, and, as the cost
+of importation was very high, comparatively few persons could afford
+such means of amusement for their children.
+
+The children of those days accepted more primitive things, dolls that
+were often merely pieces of cloth folded and pinned in such a manner as
+to suggest the outline that was not there.
+
+A few other toys such as hoops, jumping-jacks, tenpins, marbles,
+battledore-and-shuttlecock and alphabet blocks, represented the limit of
+the toy-makers' stock.
+
+In America the toy-making industry is of quite recent origin. Before
+1875 more than ninety per cent of the toys sold in this country were of
+foreign manufacture, and those that were made here were never exported
+to other countries. Today, however, about five per cent of the toys sold
+here are made abroad and the rest are manufactured here in our own
+country. Up to 1875 there was not a doll factory in the United States.
+
+Today, while we import some dainty toys from France, Germany and
+Switzerland, nearly all the newest, unique and mechanical productions
+are made in America.
+
+Simple toys are mostly made of wood and metal, and the same principles
+employed by mechanical engineers, in duplicating parts of machinery, are
+used in making duplicate parts of toys.
+
+When a design has been decided on, it is reduced to its most simple
+element. Jigs are then made so that each piece will be an exact
+duplicate of every similar piece, and the construction is pushed through
+on the American factory system.
+
+Some toys are very elaborate, costing several hundred dollars. These
+are readily purchased, however, by people of means.
+
+In the author's opinion the best kind of toys are those which suggest
+rather than fulfill, and those with which the child can really do
+something. Mechanical toys, which supply their own energy, should not be
+allowed to take the place of those into which the child must infuse part
+of his own life and energy. It follows naturally, then, that the toys
+made by the children themselves are the ideal ones.
+
+
+
+
+EQUIPMENT.
+
+
+The following drawings vary in difficulty from those within the ability
+of a nine or ten-year-old child to those which should not be attempted
+by a child under junior high school age. Of course there are younger
+boys, who possess especial ability in this line of work and who can
+successfully carry through projects which the ordinary child of a like
+age would fail to satisfactorily complete. Such boys are, however, the
+exception.
+
+  For the younger workman the following outfit is ample:
+
+  One coping saw frame.
+
+  One dozen saw blades.
+
+  A sloyd knife or a pocket knife with a small stone to keep it sharp.
+
+  Some No. 1 sandpaper, a small can of glue and some one inch brads.
+
+  The whole outfit will cost about a dollar.
+
+A small plane is very convenient, but it is not absolutely necessary for
+work for younger children.
+
+A board on which the sawing is done, to prevent marring the table, can
+be made from a piece of boxwood 7/8" x 6" x 12". A hole should be bored
+about three inches from one end and half way between the sides, and a
+V-shaped notch should be cut from the end of the board to the hole. The
+photograph on Page 20 shows the sawing board in use and illustrates two
+methods of constructing and holding the board. See also Plate 2 for
+method of making these boards. If a vise is available matters are very
+much simplified.
+
+With the above described outfit, toy animals, toy furniture,
+jumping-jacks and other simple toys of a like nature can be made.
+
+The material should be thin wood from the thickness of cigar box wood
+(which by the way is especially good to use for some of the toys), up to
+one-half inch in thickness.
+
+Composition board, such as Beaver Board and similar wall board, is very
+good for the smaller toys but lacks strength and cannot be handled
+roughly.
+
+Three-ply veneered wood may be obtained from firms which specialize in
+veneer. It is strong and serviceable but a little more expensive than
+the plain wood.
+
+Bass and pine are excellent woods to use in toy-making, as they work
+very easily and are light in weight.
+
+For the older boy, who will no doubt be handy about the house, the
+following tools are suggested:
+
+  1 Rip saw.
+  1 Turning saw.
+  1 Claw hammer.
+  1 Screw driver.
+  1 Half round file, No. 10.
+  1 Ruler.
+  1 Jack, or smooth, plane.
+  1 Brace, set of bits and countersink.
+  A 1/2" and 1" chisels.
+  1 Try square.
+  1 Pair of 6" dividers.
+  1 Knife.
+
+This outfit should cost about $25. Other tools may be added by the boy
+himself as the necessity arises.
+
+If a bench is not available at first, a temporary one may be made from a
+stout dry goods box and a more satisfactory one purchased later with
+money earned by the boy by making things for others.
+
+Cheap tools are an expensive investment as they are never satisfactory.
+A few tools of good quality should be purchased to start with, and
+others should be added as necessity demands and funds permit.
+
+
+
+
+LAYING OUT WORK.
+
+
+For the young beginner it will be necessary to have patterns of animals
+and other toys to trace around, before cutting out the forms.
+
+In the author's opinion originality should be always encouraged in a boy
+when the original designs can be successfully worked out to completion
+by the boy.
+
+With beginners, however, considerable tact must be used in leading them
+on to work out original ideas through the medium of the sketching
+pencil. Only very few have the ability to carry out an idea which they
+may have, and if allowed to attempt it without a trial on paper the
+resulting product is most always a failure. As stated before, the first
+work should be tracings from well-designed patterns. These, then, can be
+successfully worked out, and the result is satisfying to the mind of the
+child and not a discouraging failure.
+
+
+
+
+TRANSFERRING A DESIGN TO WOOD.
+
+
+A design may be traced by placing a piece of transparent paper over the
+desired drawing and outlining it with a pencil. The resulting tracing is
+cut out, placed on a stiff piece of cardboard or fiber board, and
+redrawn on this. The board is then cut carefully with scissors or a
+sharp knife. This pattern may be used for a long time and other patterns
+may be made from it in a similar manner.
+
+Another simple method is to place a piece of carbon paper beneath the
+desired drawing, carbon side down, and to go over the lines of the
+drawing with a medium-hard pencil. This transfer may be made directly
+on the wood or on a piece of cardboard which is to be cut out and used
+as a pattern. For cut-up picture puzzles the picture is pasted directly
+on the wood and, after drying, is cut at random. See Plate 5.
+
+
+
+
+ADAPTING THE PROBLEM TO THE BOY'S ABILITY.
+
+
+As the child's efficiency increases and he leaves the simpler toy forms
+for others of increasing difficulty, he should be encouraged to read the
+working drawings of the article which he intends to make. Show him how
+to discover from the drawing the lengths, widths, thicknesses of the
+pieces to be made and, after carefully checking him up, let him work out
+his own salvation for a while. In other words, do not do it all for him.
+Let the result be at least 90 per cent the boy's own work. Be ready,
+however, to assist at the right moment and never turn a deaf ear to the
+persistent question, "Why"?
+
+By following this logical method of procedure in teaching, the writer
+has found that the young craftsman is ready a great deal earlier to work
+out original ideas and designs to a practical and successful conclusion.
+
+
+
+
+FINISH AND COLOR.
+
+
+After all cutting with edged tools has been completed, all pieces should
+be carefully sanded to insure the removal of all scars, pencil lines and
+other imperfections.
+
+Sandpaper should be used on a small block. Care should be taken that no
+paper hangs over the block, thus rounding the edges of the work being
+finished.
+
+In sanding over a first coat of shellac or paint a block is not used,
+but the sandpaper is folded two or three times and used under the finger
+tips. Care must be taken especially not to wear through the finish on
+the edges.
+
+Paint is difficult and unsatisfactory for younger children to use.
+Colors handled by beginners will run together and will be "dauby" in
+appearance and a detriment rather than a finish to a toy. Added to this
+is the likelihood of a generous application on the painter's hands and
+clothing.
+
+The writer has had excellent results in using the ordinary colored wax
+crayons on toys. Crayon is easy to apply, has a pleasing color tone, is
+clean and very satisfactory for the beginner. After all of a toy has
+been colored a fairly heavy line may be drawn free-hand, at the point of
+contact of the colors, with an ordinary drafting pen and India ink.
+Pains should be taken to see that the ink is dry in one place before
+applying in another. If the crayon has been put on with pressure and
+uniformly deposited over the surface the ink will "take" without
+spreading and the result is a clean-cut finished appearance.
+
+For more advanced workers the toys should be painted with either
+commercial or enamel paints, which are available on the market in all
+colors, or with colors mixed by the boy himself. If the boy mixes his
+own colors much of the mystery of the ready-mixed paints is done away
+with.
+
+By adding to white enamel a small amount of a selected color, ground in
+oil, various tones of the color may be obtained.
+
+In painting any object a first or priming coat is applied. Flat white is
+an excellent all-round primer. After the priming coat has dried
+thoroughly on a toy, it should be sanded lightly to remove any rough
+places with No. 0 sandpaper and dusted. Then the final coat should be
+applied.
+
+Gray is also very good for the first coat except where a white or very
+light colored paints are to be used for the finished coat.
+
+When painting small toys or parts of larger toys it is economy to have a
+string or wire stretched between two hooks six or seven feet from the
+floor, on which to hang the painted article.
+
+[Illustration: Careful painting is as essential to the success of a toy
+as good construction.]
+
+Drive an inch brad into some part of the toy that will not be seen, such
+as the lower edge of the animal toys, and attach a short length of
+string or wire to this and hang up as before described. This nail will
+be handy to hold the toy by while painting and when hung up is out of
+the way, is not touching anything to cause marks on the paint, and is
+high enough up to be where the temperature of the room will assist in
+the drying process. Remove this nail after the toy is dry. If possible
+toys should dry in a special room where it is quiet, with no dust
+stirring or drafts blowing, and where the temperature is fairly uniform,
+not falling below 60 degrees.
+
+Paint should be applied with the tip of the brush, holding the brush
+nearly vertical, using a uniform stroke and taking care to prevent
+"tears" or surplus paint running over an edge. The brush should be in
+proportion to the size of the article painted, and the strokes should be
+outward toward the edges rather than from the edges inward.
+
+Features and fine lines on the toys may be placed with No. 3 round sable
+brush or with India ink in an ordinary drafting pen. The latter method
+of outlining and drawing in features has proved most successful with the
+writer's classes, as the solidity of the pen allows a firm pressure on
+the surface of the work and insures a uniform line. Fine or coarse lines
+may be made by adjusting the pen to suit the desired need.
+
+Considerable skill is needed to satisfactorily place lines with a fine
+pointed brush held in the hands of an inexperienced boy, and the
+drafting-pen method simplifies the problem immensely.
+
+Adjoining colors, outlined by this method, improve the appearance of the
+toy fifty per cent.
+
+Dull colors may be "livened up" by applying a coat of white shellac or
+varnish.
+
+Toys having parts of various colors, such as carts, etc., should have
+the different parts painted before assembling.
+
+
+
+
+STAINING.
+
+
+Before attempting to stain a toy, the wood should be carefully examined
+to see that all scars, glue or scratches have been removed. This is very
+important as the stain will show up all imperfections in the wood very
+plainly. Enough stain should be poured in a shallow cup for the piece of
+work at hand and should then be applied with a brush with the grain of
+the wood in long narrow bands from one end of the work to the other. The
+stain should be wiped with a piece of waste or cloth soon after being
+applied, removing all surplus stain and thus bringing out the grain of
+the wood.
+
+Pains must be taken when staining the edges not to allow the stain to
+run over on the adjacent surface. If it does the stain should be quickly
+wiped off with a piece of waste before it causes the surface to be
+unevenly stained.
+
+There will probably be no necessity in toy construction to use filler on
+the wood so the method of applying this will be omitted.
+
+Next apply a coat of white shellac (reduced by one part of alcohol to
+three parts of shellac), brushing it on quickly with the grain of the
+wood.
+
+Do not have too much shellac on the brush. If laps or runs show, work
+them out with the brush.
+
+After the shellac has dried eight or ten hours it should be rubbed
+lightly with No. 0 sandpaper. Be careful not to sand through the
+shellac, particularly on the edges. A second coat may be applied if
+desired.
+
+For the last coat apply a coat of either hard or liquid wax, the latter
+being preferable.
+
+Shake the can or jar before applying liquid wax. Apply evenly with a
+soft cloth and allow it to dry for an hour. Rub down to the proper
+luster with a soft clean cloth. Two or more coats of wax may be applied
+if desired.
+
+
+
+
+METHOD OF JOINTING WOOD.
+
+
+If, on account of width, certain pieces of work cannot be obtained from
+material at hand, two pieces may have to be joined together.
+
+One edge of each piece to be joined should be carefully planed square
+and straight. Keep trying the two edges together until a satisfactory
+joint is obtained, one so satisfactory that when the edges are placed
+together no joint line is visible. When such a joint is obtained we are
+ready to take the next step--to locate holes for dowels.
+
+This method is shown in Plate 1, Fig. A. Here the two pieces are placed
+face to face and lines are squared across the two edges, planning
+enough space to insure a strong job. Two or three dowels are usually
+sufficient. Locate the centers of all these lines so that the spur of
+the bit will come equidistant from each edge, as shown.
+
+Bore the holes at least twice as deep as the wood is thick. Thus for
+half inch stock the holes should be at least an inch deep.
+
+For half inch and three-eighths inch wood the hole should be bored with
+a quarter inch bit, for wood three-quarter inch to one inch thick a half
+inch bit should be used.
+
+Take extreme care in boring the holes to see that the bit is at right
+angles to the edge of the wood, otherwise difficulties will arise when
+we come to put the work together.
+
+After all holes are bored, the round sticks called dowels should be cut,
+one-eighth inch shorter than the combined depths of the two holes. This
+allowance is made so that glue may work under the ends of the dowels and
+also that the dowels may not be too long and thus prevent the edges of
+the joint from coming together.
+
+Apply glue to the dowels and insert them in the holes and spread glue on
+both of the edges, as shown in Fig. B, Plate 1.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 1._
+
+_METHOD OF JOINTING WOOD_]
+
+Place the work in clamps, if available, protecting the edges of the wood
+from the iron of the clamps with small pieces or blocks of soft wood.
+
+Fig. C shows the clamps in position. If no clamps are at hand a
+makeshift clamp may be made, as shown in Fig. D. In using this clamping
+arrangement a strong piece of wood should be nailed to the floor, where
+such nailing will do no harm, driving the nails only about
+three-quarters of the way in. Place the wood to be clamped against this
+and nail two wedge shaped pieces about an inch and a half away, as
+shown. Prepare other pieces, also of wedge shape, of a proper size to
+drive into place, as indicated.
+
+By a careful study of Fig. D the important features of such a method of
+clamping will be understood.
+
+The cold glue that comes in cans ready for use will be found most
+convenient for the beginner to use. The clamps should remain on the work
+overnight, and when removed the two surfaces of the wood must be cleaned
+of all glue and planed.
+
+
+
+
+SUPPORTS FOR HOLDING COPING SAW WORK.
+
+
+In Plate 2 are shown two devices for holding work while using the coping
+saw. Fig. A is a type of support suitable for use in a vise and is of a
+height that will enable the workman to stand while sawing. Fig. B is
+lower, and the sawing is done while sitting in a chair. This type is
+designed for use where there is no vise and is held secure by a clamp,
+as is shown in the sketch.
+
+[Illustration: Boys using correctly the Supports for Coping Saw Work
+detailed in Plate 2.]
+
+
+
+
+SUPPORT TO BE HELD IN VISE.
+
+
+In making this support the following method should be followed:
+
+The back piece is first made 7/8" x 6-3/4" x 20". The top is made 7/8" x
+6-3/4 x 12" and the brace 7/8" x 3" x 8-1/2". This brace tapers to a
+point at the lower end. Two small cleats are 7/8" x 1-1/4" x 6-3/4" and
+are attached to the upright piece 1-7/8" up from the bottom edge. This
+allows the support to set firmly in the vise. Measure in from one end of
+the top piece 5" and have this point come half way between the sides. At
+this point a hole is carefully bored with a 3/4" bit. On this same end
+measure in from each edge 2-1/4". From these points draw lines tangent
+to the edges of the circle, as shown. Cut out this V-shaped notch.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 2._
+
+_SUPPORTS FOR HOLDING COPING SAW WORK_]
+
+Bore all holes shown on the drawing with a bit that will allow using
+1-1/4" or 1-1/2". No. 8 flat-head screws. Have all surfaces sanded
+smoothly and assemble with glue and screws.
+
+
+
+
+SUPPORT FOR TABLE USE.
+
+
+For the support shown in Fig. B, Plate 2, we make the upright 7/8" x
+6-3/4" x 8-7/8". The top is cut 7/8" x 6-3/4" x 12" and the base 7/8" x
+5" x 6-3/4" and the upright brace 7/8" x 3" x 8". The top has the same
+V-shaped notch cut in it as the other form of support. Bore all
+necessary holes, sandpaper and assemble. The clamp shown in the sketch
+answers the purpose very nicely and may be purchased for a small sum at
+any hardware store.
+
+
+
+
+THE BENCH HOOK.
+
+
+The bench hook is a very useful article to have about the work bench. It
+is made of hard wood, preferably maple. The drawing is shown in Plate
+3. The main piece is made 7/8" x 6" x 12". Two cross cleats are made,
+one being 7/8" x 1-1/2" x 6" and the other 7/8" x 1-1/2" x 5". Holes are
+bored and countersunk at the places shown in the drawing. Great care
+must be taken in cutting these three pieces of wood to see that every
+edge is square and true. One of the cleats is attached on one side of
+the board even with the end, while the other is placed on the other side
+on the opposite end. These are held in place with glue and 1-1/4" No. 8
+flat-head screws. By referring to the drawing and the sketch the idea
+may be readily seen. It will be noticed that the short cleat has its end
+even with the left-hand edge, thus leaving a space of an inch at the
+right. When used with this side up it is for the purpose of sawing off
+small pieces of wood with the back saw, and when used with the other
+side up, on which the long cleat is attached, it is for the purpose of
+planing the end of a piece of wood across the grain.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 3._
+
+_THE BENCH HOOK_]
+
+If a piece of wood is set up in a vise for end planing and the planing
+is done across the grain, the fibers on the further edge have no support
+but break away, as shown in Fig. C, Plate 3. In using the bench-hook the
+wood lies flat on the board and fits tight against the long cleat, and
+the plane is laid flat on its side and pushed back and forth. (Plate 3,
+Fig. A.) It can be readily seen that supported as it now is, the piece
+of wood being planed will not splinter or break on its further edge.
+Pains must be taken, however, to keep the plane flat on its side, not
+raising it on its edge at all, for by so doing the resulting planed edge
+will not be square. This bench-hook may be made quite easily by the
+beginner and besides being a good problem, is a very helpful addition to
+the tool outfit. It works very well when planing wood not over six or
+seven inches wide. Wood wider than this should be planed as follows:
+Place the piece of wood upright in the vise with the end grain
+uppermost, and plane about three-quarters of the way across the edge.
+Then turn the piece and plane the remaining part back in the opposite
+direction. By so doing the end of the wood will not be split.
+
+Figures A and B, Plate 3, show the operation of the bench-hook for both
+sawing and planing.
+
+
+
+
+SIMPLE TOOL SHARPENING.
+
+
+In order to do good, clean-cut, accurate work it is very necessary that
+all cutting tools be kept sharp. And it is important that every boy who
+undertakes toy making have an elementary knowledge of the subject,
+especially an understanding of how to properly sharpen the knife, the
+chisel and the plane blade.
+
+If the tool is very dull, with nicks in the cutting edge, it should be
+ground first on the grindstone. It is quite important that the blade be
+held at the proper angle, about 25 degrees on the stone. A suitable tool
+holder, such as is shown in the illustration on Page 26, is a very
+useful article to have in the tool equipment. The tool is held in place,
+bevel side down, by thumbscrews, and projects beyond the holder a little
+over half an inch.
+
+The grindstone should be thoroughly wet to prevent heating the tool and
+also to insure the washing away of the fine particles of steel from the
+surface of the stone.
+
+The round shape of the stone causes the bevel of the tool to be concave
+if held steadily in one position, as shown in Fig. A, Plate 4. Fig. B
+shows the incorrect result if the blade is not held evenly on the stone.
+It can be readily seen that the latter result will not make a very sharp
+cutting edge.
+
+Care should be taken when grinding not to round the corners of the tool.
+
+The theory of the cutting edge of the tool is the same as that of the
+wedge; the thinner the wedge the easier it is to drive it. However, the
+wedge, as well as the tool, must be thick enough to stand the strain of
+being driven into the wood, or the material which is to be split or cut.
+Too long and thin a bevel, while sharp at first, soon loses its edge
+through usage, while too blunt an edge makes the tool unsatisfactory to
+work with.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 4._
+
+_SIMPLE TOOL SHARPENING_]
+
+The grindstone leaves the tool edge rough, or with a wire edge, as it is
+called. This roughness is removed on the oil stone. One or two drops of
+thin stone oil should be placed on the stone and the tool placed bevel
+side flat on the surface of the stone. Work with a circular motion,
+bearing on the tool with uniform pressure. Turn the blade over, bevel
+side up, seeing that the blade lies perfectly flat on the stone. Work
+with a similar motion. Repeat these operations until the blade is as
+sharp as desired. Wipe the oil from the tool and test by drawing the
+blade lightly across the thumb. If the blade clings to the skin it will
+be found sharp enough.
+
+Fig. C, on Plate 4, shows the correct and incorrect methods of
+oil-stoning the tool blade. Always wipe the stone dry after using, as
+the oil will dry and gum up the grinding surface if not kept clean.
+
+Tool grinding is an important and rather difficult operation at first
+and skill comes only with continued practice.
+
+In sharpening a knife-blade on an oilstone care should be taken to keep
+the blade nearly flat on the stone in order to get a thin, sharp edge.
+The knife should be sharpened first on one side and then on the other,
+until the desired edge is obtained.
+
+Fig. D, Plate 4, shows the right and wrong methods of holding the knife
+blade on the stone. Figures E and F show the results of careless
+sharpening. Fig. G is sharpened correctly.
+
+[Illustration: Grinding Tool on Grindstone using Tool Holder.]
+
+
+
+
+COPING SAW WORK.
+
+
+The following plates of birds and animals (Plates 6 to 17) are
+especially interesting to the beginner and are excellent for the novice
+to prove and improve his skill with the coping saw.
+
+Wood from 1/4" to 1/2" in thickness is best for this type of toy, 3/8"
+being a good medium thickness to use. Pulp board, such as Beaver board,
+is also very good, as there is no grain and, therefore, little liability
+of splitting. Pulp board saws very easily and takes paint nicely.
+
+All of these toys are mounted on a wood base, made of 1/2" wood, of a
+size shown on the various drawings. The animal is attached to the base
+with glue and 1-1/4" brads.
+
+Wheels can be made from a round stick (called a dowel) an inch in
+diameter by carefully sawing off pieces 3/8" thick.
+
+Holes are bored at the middle point of these wheels large enough to
+allow them to turn easily on a 1" No. 6 round-head blue screw. Washers
+should be placed on the screws on both sides of the wheels.
+
+Plate 6 gives a general idea of the toy base.
+
+
+
+
+DOWEL STICKS.
+
+
+Dowel sticks are very useful to the toy maker and an assortment of
+various sizes should be kept on hand. They are very handy in many ways
+in toy making and furniture construction. They come in sizes from 1/4"
+to 1" in diameter or larger, in 30" lengths, and cost from two to three
+cents apiece.
+
+Dowel sticks are usually carried in stock by local hardware men or may
+be obtained from manufacturers of mill work.
+
+
+
+
+PICTURE PUZZLE CONSTRUCTION.
+
+
+The problem illustrated in Plate 5 is very interesting and especially
+good for the beginner.
+
+First, select a picture of the size desired from a calendar or discarded
+magazine. Colored pictures are the best.
+
+Prepare a piece of 1/4" soft wood, such as bass or pine, and glue the
+picture to the surface, rolling and pressing out air bubbles and
+smoothing away all wrinkles. Place a weight on the picture and allow it
+to dry overnight.
+
+Holding the coping saw so that the blade is straight up and down, or in
+other words, at right angles with the surface of the work, saw out
+irregular shaped pieces similar to those shown in the accompanying
+drawing.
+
+If these pieces are placed in a neat Christmas box, such as may be
+purchased at the five-and-ten-cent store, it will make a very pleasing
+Christmas gift.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 5._
+
+_PICTURE PUZZLE CONSTRUCTION_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 6._
+
+_PELICAN_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 7._
+
+_DUCK_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 8._
+
+_GOOSE_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 9._
+
+_RHINOCEROS_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 10._
+
+_ELEPHANT_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 11._
+
+_RABBIT_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 12._
+
+_LAMB_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 13._
+
+_GOAT_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 14._
+
+_ROOSTER_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 15._
+
+_CAMEL_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 16._
+
+_METHOD OF ENLARGING FIGURES_]
+
+
+
+
+METHOD OF ENLARGING FIGURES.
+
+
+If a figure shown in a book or in any picture is to be enlarged the
+following method is very simple:
+
+Enclose the figure in a rectangle and divide it in quarter inch squares,
+like the drawing of the duck in Plate 16.
+
+If the drawing is to be enlarged twice the original size, draw a
+rectangle on a piece of paper or cardboard twice as large as the
+picture. Divide it into exactly the same number of squares, which will
+now be twice as large as before, or one-half inch on a side. Letter and
+number all parts to agree.
+
+Start now and sketch the enlarged figure, having the lines pass through
+the same places in the squares of the large rectangle as in the small.
+
+With a little patience it will be surprising how accurate a copy can be
+made.
+
+A picture may be reduced by the same method.
+
+
+
+
+DIPPY DUCK.
+
+
+This toy is larger than the regular cut-out figure and has added action
+by the placing of the inner piece off-center on the larger wheel, thus
+causing the duck to move up and down as the toy is pulled along on the
+floor.
+
+As shown in the drawing (Plate 17), the base is made of four separate
+pieces, because it is easier to construct it this way than to cut out
+the slot from a solid piece. The wood used is 7/8" pine, the two long
+pieces being 1-1/2" wide by 15" long and the two end pieces 1-1/4" wide
+by 2-1/2" long. These are glued and chamfered. A small chamfer is planed
+around the top edge, as shown.
+
+The small base piece on which the duck rests is made 7/8" x 1" x 7-1/2".
+A hole is bored 2" from one end with a 1/2" bit and the slot is sawed
+out. The opposite end is rounded.
+
+A hole is bored in the end where the slot is cut 3/8" from the end, of a
+size that will take a piece of 16-penny nail tightly. The nail is cut
+one inch long and serves as an axle for the large wheel. A similar hole
+is bored, 3/8" from the other end, with a larger drill so that the nail
+used at this point will be smaller than the hole, allowing the base
+piece to move easily upon it.
+
+The large wheel is made by cutting a piece from a curtain rod 2-1/4" in
+diameter or by turning down a piece to this diameter on the lathe. This
+wheel is cut 3/8" thick. The four main wheels are 1-3/4" in diameter and
+3/8" thick. These wheels have a small hole bored exactly in their
+center, of a size large enough to allow a shingle, or a screw, nail to
+turn easily within.
+
+The wheels are attached two inches from the ends and the nails are
+driven in straight so as to insure the wheels turning evenly. A screw
+eye is placed at the front end, as shown, to which is attached a string
+to pull it by.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 17._
+
+_DIPPY DUCK_]
+
+All parts should be nicely sanded before assembling and then given two
+coats of paint. A suggested color scheme is given on the drawing.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 18._
+
+_MONITOR_ (_revolving turret_)]
+
+
+
+
+THE MONITOR.
+
+
+This design is what might be called an amphibious toy, which means one
+that is at home both on the land and water.
+
+The base, or hull, is made from a piece of 1/2" board, 5-1/4" wide and
+14" long. At a point on the long edges, 4-1/2" from the ends, a center
+is taken with a compass, or pair of dividers, set at 5-1/4" radius, as
+shown in the drawing. Strike all of these curves and cut to the line
+with a coping saw and finish smooth.
+
+The main turret and the two smaller blocks are either turned on a lathe
+or cut from a cylindrical piece of wood. If care is used the pieces can
+also be cut with a turning saw from a piece of wood of the required
+thickness. The two smaller pieces are cut from a piece of 7/8" board and
+are 1-3/4" in diameter and are attached with 1" brads and glue, 1-3/4"
+from each end.
+
+For the main turret, which is to be movable, a hole is bored in the hull
+exactly in the middle. In boring, a bit a little larger than the size of
+a 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screw is used, in order that the screw shank
+will move easily. This hole is countersunk on the under side. A smaller
+hole is started on the under side of the turret to receive the screw
+and, when the pieces are assembled, the screw is not screwed up tight,
+but enough play is left so that the turret will revolve fairly easily.
+
+[Illustration: The Monitor and the Merrimac and Animal Toys.]
+
+The two "guns" may be cut from 5/8" dowels, 2-3/8" long, or may be
+turned on a lathe. Two holes are bored, on opposite sides of the turret,
+3/8" deep, to receive the guns which are glued in.
+
+The two pieces to which the wheels are attached are made 1/2" x 3/4" x
+4", and are secured in place 4" from bow and stern with shingle nails
+and glue.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 19._
+
+_MERRIMAC_]
+
+The four wheels are cut from 1" dowels, 7/8" thick.
+
+A hole is bored exactly in the middle of each wheel a little larger than
+the wire of a shingle nail, which is used to hold them in place on the
+base.
+
+A small piece of 1/4" dowel about 2-1/4" long, is inserted in a hole,
+bored with a 1/4" bit, 3/4" from the bow. This is the flagstaff, and
+just in front of this is placed a small screw eye to attach the string
+for pulling the toy. Give the entire toy two coats of black paint.
+
+
+
+
+THE MERRIMAC.
+
+
+The Confederate Ironclad is a little harder to make than the Monitor,
+but it is well within the ability of a sixth grade boy.
+
+The hull is made 1/2" x 5-1/4" x 14", and is sawed to a point at the bow
+and stern, sloping from the center point of both ends to points 3-1/4"
+from either end.
+
+The upper works are made from a block of wood 1-3/4" thick, 4-1/2" wide
+and 7-1/2" long. This is beveled so that the top is 3-1/4" x 6-1/4".
+
+The two smokestacks are made from pieces of 3/4" dowel, cut 3-1/4" long
+and inserted in holes bored 1/2" deep, 1" from the sides of the upper
+deck and 3-1/8" from the ends. These are held in place with glue.
+
+The flagstaff is cut from a piece of 1/4" dowel, 2-3/8" long, inserted
+in a hole, bored with a 1/4" bit, 3/4" from the bow.
+
+Just in front of this, 1/4" from the end, is placed a small screw-eye to
+which a string may be attached.
+
+The ten "guns" are made from 1/2" dowels, cut 1" long, and at an angle
+so that the lower side is 7/8" long. This is so that they will fit
+against the sloping sides of the turret.
+
+A hole is bored from end to end of each gun, in their centers, so that a
+1-1/2" finish nail will fit in nicely.
+
+The guns are held in place with these nails and with glue at the points
+indicated on the drawing.
+
+The upper works and hull are held together with 1" brads and glue, in
+such a manner that the gun turret is equally distant from the ends and
+sides of the hull.
+
+The pieces which hold the wheels are made 1/2" x 3/4" x 4" and are
+nailed and glued in place, 3-1/2" from bow and stern.
+
+The wheels are 3/8" thick, cut from 1" dowels, and are held by shingle
+nails driven into the axle in such a way that they will turn freely.
+
+The holes for the nails, in the wheels, are bored exactly in their
+centers with a bit a little larger than the nail to be used.
+
+After sanding and assembling give the boat two coats of black or battle
+ship gray paint.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 20._
+
+_CHILD'S SNOW SHOVEL_]
+
+
+
+
+CHILD'S SNOW SHOVEL.
+
+
+This problem is simple and of interest to young people during early
+winter. (Plate 20.)
+
+The handle may be made square in section first and then gradually
+rounded with a plane and then filed and sanded; or a discarded handle
+from some other implement may be utilized. The handle should be 28"
+long, and a hole should be bored and a rivet inserted 11-5/8" from one
+end. This is to reinforce the handle where the saw cut comes. This cut
+is made directly along the center of the handle and stops 11" from the
+end. If this cut is not made exactly in the center, the spreading, when
+the grip is inserted, will be unequal, and the shovel will not be in
+balance.
+
+The two ends of the shovel are rounded, as indicated, and the lower end
+is cut at an angle to fit the surface of the shovel.
+
+The grip should be cut from a 1" dowel and then cut to fit the angle
+formed by the spreading sides of the shovel.
+
+This is held in place by 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screws with washers, as
+indicated.
+
+The broad part of the shovel is cut from one piece, if possible, 1/2" x
+8" x 10-1/2", and the front end cut an angle which is reinforced with a
+piece of zinc, 3-1/4" x 8", bent over and held by rivets and washers, as
+shown.
+
+The brace under the handle is cut 3/4" x 1-5/8" x 8" and then planed
+from an upper edge to within an inch of the opposite lower edge and
+secured in place with screws. The handle is attached to the blade with
+rivets and washers, as shown on the drawing.
+
+
+
+
+THE PERISCOPE.
+
+
+This is an interesting problem and demonstrates a scientific principle.
+
+For a periscope of the size shown in the drawing (Plate 21), two pieces
+of looking glass must be first cut 2-1/4" x 2-7/8".
+
+Pieces A are cut 3/8" x 2" x 4-1/4"; pieces B are 3/8" x 2-3/4" x
+4-1/4"; pieces C, 3/8" x 1-7/8" x 2-3/4"; pieces D, 3/8" x 2" x 17-1/4";
+pieces E, 3/8" x 2-3/4" x 18-7/8"; and pieces F, 3/8" x 2-3/4" x
+18-7/8".
+
+Two grooves 1/8" deep, and of a width to receive the thickness of the
+glass used, should be cut at an angle of 45 degrees, where indicated on
+the drawing. This groove is cut in pieces A only.
+
+All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1 sandpaper and finished
+with No. 0. Assemble, as shown on the drawing, using glue and 1" brads.
+
+The final finish may be stain or paint. Whatever finish is used should
+be of a dark color as best suited for a periscope.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 21._
+
+_PERISCOPE_]
+
+[Illustration: The Periscope in Use.]
+
+
+
+
+DOLL'S IRONING BOARD.
+
+(Size A.)
+
+
+This problem has proven very popular in toy-making classes and has been
+one of the best sellers at toy sales. It folds up compactly and is
+strong and serviceable.
+
+Plates 22, 23 and 24 show the ironing board in three sizes for children
+of varying ages.
+
+Plate 22 is for children of about three years of age, and the material
+is prepared as follows:
+
+The top is first made of 1/2" lumber and is 6" wide and 20" long. Set
+the dividers with a 3" radius and strike an arc just touching the end
+and two sides of the board. Do the same on the other end, using a 2-1/2"
+radius.
+
+[Illustration: The Three Types of Ironing Boards.]
+
+Connect these arcs with straight lines and saw and plane carefully just
+to the lines all around. The turning saw may be used on the ends.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 22._
+
+_DOLL'S IRONING BOARD_ (_Size A_)]
+
+Slightly round the upper edge of the surface which is to be uppermost.
+
+The legs are next cut to size, the two longer ones being 1/2" x 1" x 19"
+and the two shorter ones 1/2" x 1" x 18-3/4".
+
+One end of each is rounded by striking an arc with a 1-1/2" radius, at
+the extreme end. The other ends of the legs are cut off at an angle, as
+shown in the drawing.
+
+Holes are bored in the rounded ends of the long legs, 1/2" from the ends
+with a No. 3 bit. Another hole of similar size is bored 8-1/4" from the
+one previously bored. These holes are all 1/2" from the edges.
+
+On the short legs the only holes necessary are bored 8-1/4" from the
+rounded end.
+
+The long legs are attached by screws to a cleat which itself is screwed
+to the underside of the top of the board, as shown. This cleat is 7/8" x
+1-1/8" x 4-1/2" and is glued and held to the top by 1-1/4" flat-head
+screws, two of them being sufficient. These are countersunk.
+
+The separating piece at the other end of the long legs is 1/2" x 1" x
+4-9/16" and is held in place by 1-1/4" brads and glue. It is attached 2"
+from the ends.
+
+Two separating pieces are next made for the short legs, 1/2" x 1" x
+3-1/2", and these are attached in the same manner as the piece between
+the long legs.
+
+A cleat 7/8" x 1" x 3-7/16" is attached with glue and 1-1/2" flat-head
+screws, 2" from the small end of the board. This holds the short legs in
+position.
+
+All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper before
+being assembled. No further finish is necessary.
+
+
+
+
+DOLL'S IRONING BOARD.
+
+(Size B.)
+
+The method of constructing this board is identical with the method
+suggested for board A. The difference is in the size of the pieces.
+(Plate 23.)
+
+This type of ironing board is suitable for a child from four to six
+years of age.
+
+The top is 5/8" thick, 7-3/4" wide and 24-1/2" long.
+
+The curved ends are struck with the dividers in the same way as in the
+preceding problem.
+
+The legs are next cut to dimension, the longer ones being 9/16" x 1-1/8"
+x 24", and the shorter 9/16" x 1-1/8" x 22-1/2".
+
+One end of each leg is rounded by setting the dividers at 9/16" and
+cutting to the line and cutting the opposite ends at an angle, as shown
+in the drawing.
+
+Bore holes with a No. 3 bit in the rounded ends of the long legs, 5/8"
+from the ends and a similar hole is bored 9-1/2" from the hole
+previously bored. These holes are all 9/16" in from the edges.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 23._
+
+_DOLL'S IRONING BOARD_ (_Size B_)]
+
+On the short legs the only holes bored are made with the same bit,
+9-3/8" from the rounded ends.
+
+The long legs are attached to a cleat by 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head blue
+screws, with washers under both the heads of the screws and between the
+screws and the cleat.
+
+The cleat is 7/8" x 1-1/8" x 5-7/8" and is glued and screwed to the
+under side of the top with 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screws.
+
+These are countersunk.
+
+The separating piece at the other end of the long legs is 3/8" x 1-1/8"
+x 5-15/16" and is held in place by 1-1/4" brads and glue, and is
+attached 3" from the end.
+
+Two separating pieces are next made for the short legs, 3/8" x 1-1/8" x
+4-1/2", and these are attached in the same way as the piece between the
+longer legs.
+
+A cleat 7/8" x 1-1/4" x 4-7/16" is attached with glue and 1-3/4"
+flat-head screws, 4" from the small end of the board. This holds the
+short legs in position. Refer to the detail on the drawing of the size A
+ironing board (Plate 22) for the method of making the button which holds
+the board rigid.
+
+All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper before
+being assembled.
+
+No further finish is necessary.
+
+
+
+
+DOLL'S IRONING BOARD.
+
+(Size C.)
+
+
+The method of constructing this size board is similar to the other two
+types. (Plate 24.)
+
+This size board is suitable for children from six to eight years of age.
+
+The top is made 3/4" thick, 9" wide and 30" long. The dividers are set
+with a 4-1/2" radius and an arc is struck to touch the end and two sides
+of the board. A similar arc is struck at the opposite end with a 3-1/2"
+radius.
+
+These arcs are connected with a straight line, and the outline is cut
+with a saw and finally planed to the lines. The curved ends can be cut
+with a turning saw and finished with a chisel and file.
+
+The upper edges are slightly rounded with a file and sandpaper.
+
+The legs are next cut to size, two being 3/4" x 1-1/4" x 27-7/8", and
+the other two 3/4" x 1-1/4" x 29".
+
+One end of each is rounded by striking an arc with a 5/8" radius, at the
+extreme end. The other ends of the legs are cut at an angle, as shown in
+the drawing.
+
+Holes are bored in the rounded end of the short legs, 5/8" from the
+ends, of a size that will take a 1-3/4" No. 10 round-head blue screw.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 24._
+
+_DOLL'S IRONING BOARD_ (_Size C_)]
+
+Another hole of similar size is bored 11" from this. These holes are all
+5/8" from the edges.
+
+On the other two legs the only two holes necessary are bored 12-1/2"
+from the rounded ends.
+
+The shorter legs are attached by screws to a cleat which itself is
+screwed to the underside of the board, 4-1/2" from the large end. This
+cleat is 1" x 1-1/4" x 6-3/4" and is held in place with glue and 1-3/4"
+flat-head screws, countersunk. Two of these screws are sufficient.
+
+The separating piece at the other end of the legs is 3/4" x 1-1/4" x
+6-13/16", and is held in place by 1-1/2" brads and glue, and is attached
+3-1/2" from the ends.
+
+Two separating pieces are next made for the long legs, 3/4" x 1-1/4" x
+5-1/4", and these are attached in the same manner as the pieces between
+the other set of legs.
+
+A cleat 1-1/8" x 1-3/8" x 5-3/16" is attached with glue and 2" flat-head
+screws, 5-1/2" from the small end of the board. This holds the short
+legs in position.
+
+The wood button, shown on the drawing for the Size A ironing board
+(Plate 22), is attached to this cleat and prevents the board from
+collapsing.
+
+All pieces should be thoroughly sandpapered with No. 1/2 sandpaper
+before being assembled.
+
+No further finish is necessary.
+
+
+
+
+DOLL'S CLOTHES RACK.
+
+
+This folding clothes rack is an interesting toy and requires some skill
+in assembling. (Plate 25.)
+
+[Illustration: Playing House is real fun with such a dolls' clothes
+rack, ironing board, wash bench, table and stepladder.]
+
+The four legs are cut 3/8" x 3/4" x 13" and each end is rounded by first
+striking semicircles on the ends, using a 3/8" radius, and then
+finishing with a chisel carefully to the line.
+
+Holes are bored in these legs with a 1/4" bit in the following places:
+3/8" from the top, 4-7/8" beyond this, 3-1/4" beyond this, and 1-3/4"
+beyond this. Extreme care must be taken not to split the wood. Bore
+through from one side until the spur of the bit just starts to come
+through, then remove the bit and bore back from the other side.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 25._
+
+_DOLL'S CLOTHES RACK_]
+
+Next cut the four top pieces to size, two being 3/8" x 3/4" x 6" and two
+3/8" x 3/4" x 7". These are also rounded on both ends. Holes are bored
+3/8" from each end of all of these and also half way between their ends,
+as shown in Plate 25.
+
+These pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper.
+
+The cross pieces are cut from 1/4" dowels as follows: Four pieces,
+8-3/4" long; six pieces, 8" long; and one piece, 7-1/4" long.
+
+The long dowel sticks are the ones that go at points a, b, c and d,
+Plate 25, on the outside legs. The 8" dowels go at points e, f, g, h, i,
+and j. The single short dowel goes at point k.
+
+Examine the drawing carefully and see that the four top pieces are
+placed on the correct dowels. Hold all dowels, which are not at movable
+points, with 3/4" brads.
+
+Be sure every piece is in its proper position before driving in the
+brads and then be positive that no brad is being driven at a point where
+the dowel must be free to move in the hole. It is always best to
+assemble the rack completely and by closing and opening it learn clearly
+just where the brads are to be placed.
+
+No further finish is necessary.
+
+
+
+
+CHILD'S WASH BENCH.
+
+
+This bench may be made in various sizes to fit different heights of
+children. The top consists of three slats and for the size bench shown
+in Plate 26, the slats are made 3/8" x 1-3/4" x 18". These slats have
+screw holes bored 2-3/8" from the ends and 3/8" from the edges, as
+shown. These are countersunk to receive 1" No. 6 flat-head screws.
+
+Two braces are made 3/4" x 1/4" x 8". These are to support the slats.
+One inch from one end of these braces, and 5/8" from the edges, a hole
+is bored with a 3/8" bit. The same distance from the other end a similar
+hole is bored and a piece is sawed out, as shown in the drawing, to
+receive and support the dowel rod.
+
+The legs of the bench are cut 3/8" x 1" x 12-3/4". One-half inch from
+one end a hole is bored with a 3/8" bit. One and one-half inches from
+the other end a similar hole is bored and 7" from the same end the third
+hole is bored, making three in each leg. Care must be taken in boring
+these holes not to split the work as the bit goes through. Bore through
+on one side until the spur of the bit just starts through on the
+opposite side. Remove the bit and place the spur point in the small hole
+made by the spur and bore back in the opposite direction.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 26._
+
+_CHILD'S WASH BENCH_]
+
+The two cross slats forming the braces are 3/8" x 3/4" x 13". A center
+lap joint is made by cutting through half way on both slats at such an
+angle as will cause the outer edge of the slats to be about five inches
+apart. The ends of the slats should be sawed at such an angle as will
+make them flush with the sides of the legs and small holes drilled and
+countersunk so that they may be attached with 3/4" No. 4 flat-head
+screws.
+
+Two 3/8" dowel rods should next be cut, one being 12-1/2" long and the
+other 14" long.
+
+These dowels should be held in place in the legs by 3/4" brads, care
+being taken not to nail where there is to be a moving joint.
+
+All pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper.
+
+No other finish is necessary.
+
+
+
+
+CHILD'S STEP LADDER.
+
+
+This step ladder may be made in various sizes, the one shown here being
+suitable for children up to seven or eight years of age. (Plate 27.)
+
+The two front legs should be cut first, 5/8" x 2-1/4" x 21". It will be
+noticed that the two ends are cut off at an angle. This angle is
+obtained by measuring back on one side 1" and drawing to this point from
+the opposite corner. Make all of these angles equal and if possible cut
+them in a miter-box.
+
+The two rear legs, or braces, are cut 5/8" x 1-1/8" x 17-3/4", and the
+two ends are rounded. The semicircle is marked out by setting the
+dividers, or a compass, at a 9/16" radius and striking the curve tangent
+to the sides and ends of the legs.
+
+Two holes are bored with a No. 8 bit, 5/16" from one end of the rear
+legs and 1-1/4" from the other end, as indicated, care being taken not
+to split the wood.
+
+The top step is next made 5/8" x 5-1/4" x 9-3/4", and the top edges
+slightly rounded.
+
+Two holes are bored with a small drill, 1-1/2" from the ends of this
+step and 1" from the rear and front edges of both ends. These should be
+countersunk. Later, when assembled, this top is screwed to the braces
+with 1" No. 6 flat-head screws, as shown in the front view. (Plate 27.)
+
+Two braces are next made 5/8" x 2" x 5-1/4", and are cut off at either
+end at the same angle as were the ends of the front legs. These are
+attached to the inside of the legs, at the top, as shown in the side
+view, with four 1" No. 6 flat-head screws and glue. Care should be taken
+to get them just even with the front and top sides of the legs. Before
+the braces are attached a hole should be bored with a No. 8 bit 5/8"
+from the top edge and 1" from the left-hand edge to receive the dowel
+stick on which the rear leg swings.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 27._
+
+_CHILD'S STEP LADDER_]
+
+While boring this hole the end should be held with a clamp to prevent
+splitting.
+
+The two lower steps are next made. These are 5/8" thick and are cut 3"
+wide. The width is greater than is needed, and is provided that the
+steps may be planed even with the edges of the legs later. The steps are
+cut 8" in length.
+
+The next operation is cutting grooves for the steps to set into the
+legs, and this requires considerable care.
+
+The lower step is 5-3/4" from the lower end of the legs. This dimension
+is measured off on each leg, and a line is drawn parallel with the lower
+end of the leg. This may be done by either using a T bevel, set at the
+angle of the lower end of the legs, or the dimension, 5-3/4", may be
+measured up on both sides of the leg and a line drawn across.
+
+Next take the lower step and mark one end A and the other end B. Place
+the end A, of the lower step, evenly on this line and make a mark above
+the first line a little less than the thickness of the step. The groove
+is marked a little less than the thickness of the step so that, in case
+the saw cut is made a little wide, the step will not be likely to fit
+loosely.
+
+Square lines across both edges of the edge from the end of the lines
+previously drawn and measure down from the surface a distance of 1/4" on
+the edges. Draw a line through this point parallel to the edge of the
+leg.
+
+Next saw carefully on the lines, first drawn, down as far as this last
+line and cut the wood out with a half-inch chisel.
+
+If the step will not fit in the slot, plane a very slight amount from
+the surface of the step until it fits snugly into the groove.
+
+End B is fitted to the opposite leg in a similar way and the second step
+is placed in a like manner, 6-7/8" above the lower step.
+
+If the drawing is examined, as these directions for placing the steps
+are read, the explanation will be greatly simplified.
+
+The two narrow cross braces are next made, 3/8" x 5/8" x 15-1/2". These
+are crossed at their middle point in a middle-lap joint, a groove being
+cut half through each piece wide enough to insure a tight joint. These
+braces are attached to the rear legs, 2-1/2" from their lower ends, with
+3/4" No. 6 flat-head screws, the holes being previously bored and
+countersunk.
+
+Cut the ends of the braces even with the ends of the legs.
+
+Holes are bored with a small bit in the grooves in the legs, 1/2" in
+from the sides, as shown. These holes are for the round-head screws
+which hold the steps in place. The steps are held in the grooves of the
+legs with glue and 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 28._
+
+_DOLL'S TABLE WITH DRAWER_]
+
+The dowel sticks are now cut 8-3/4" long from a 1/2" dowel and, after
+all pieces of wood are carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper, the step
+ladder is assembled.
+
+A 3/4" brad should be driven into the edge of the rear legs so that it
+will penetrate and hold the dowel in place.
+
+A piece of small chain should be fastened to each front and rear leg, as
+shown, of a length sufficient to have the front legs of the ladder set
+flat on the ground. Also take care that the two chains are even with
+each other and parallel with the ground. No further finish is required.
+
+
+
+
+DOLL'S TABLE WITH DRAWER.
+
+
+While this table may be made in various sizes, the one shown in the
+accompanying drawing has proven very popular.
+
+The four legs are first made 7/8" x 1-1/4" x 12". Measure down 3" from
+one end and taper the legs equally from this point to a width of 7/8" at
+the opposite ends, as shown.
+
+The two side rails are made 1/2" x 2-7/8" x 6-1/2". The two front rails
+above and below the drawer are cut 1/2" x 1/2" x 12".
+
+On the side and rear rails, centers for dowels are located 5/8" from
+the top and lower edges and half way between the sides. An inch brad is
+driven in a short distance at these points, and the head is cut off
+about 1/4" above the surface of the wood. These ends are now placed so
+that their upper edges are even with the top of the legs. Press down
+lightly on the rails and a mark will be made on the surface of the legs.
+
+Remove the brads and bore the dowel hole with a 1/4" bit, 1-1/4" deep.
+
+The two drawer rails are treated in the same manner and the holes are
+bored.
+
+The top will no doubt have to be made of two pieces of wood jointed and
+glued together, and reinforced with dowels.
+
+The finished dimensions are 3/8" x 12" x 19".
+
+Short blocks of wood are screwed to the rear and two side rails even
+with their tops, and screws are later put through these from their under
+side to hold the top in place. A 3/4" No. 6 screw is placed in the
+center of the upper drawer rail to assist in holding the top in place.
+(See Plate 28 for details of the method of attaching the top.)
+
+Two strips of wood 1/2" wide, and thick and long enough to fit tightly
+between the front and rear rails, are made to serve as drawer slides.
+
+Similar strips of wood are glued to the inner part of the end rails to
+cause the drawer to run evenly. These strips are just thick enough to
+bring their surface even with the edge of the leg.
+
+All rails should be thoroughly sanded and then assembled with glue,
+screws, and brads as directed, the rails and legs being clamped for
+several hours to insure a tight fit.
+
+If the various parts of the table have been accurately made, the drawer
+should be now constructed to the dimensions called for in the drawing.
+If there has been any error in the making of the several pieces, of
+course the drawer must be made to fit the space in that individual
+table.
+
+The drawer front is 3/8" x 1-7/8" x 12". The sides are 1/4" x 1-7/8" x
+11-1/2". These dimensions may all have to be trimmed down somewhat to
+secure an easy sliding fit. The drawer construction is clearly shown in
+the sketch. Bottom pieces of 1/4" wood are cut to fit, and after
+sanding, all pieces are glued and bradded together.
+
+Handles of the size shown in the drawing may be turned on the lathe or
+made by hand, and placed as indicated.
+
+As this type of table is patterned after the ordinary kitchen table it
+may be left unfinished.
+
+
+
+
+COLONIAL DOLL'S TABLE.
+
+
+This table, with the accompanying chairs shown in Plate 30, makes a very
+artistic and interesting problem in toy-making.
+
+The table and chairs work up very nicely if made of oak and stained a
+mission brown. They may also be made of soft wood and stained or
+painted. Directions for staining may be found in the front part of the
+book.
+
+The top (Plate 29) is made 3/8" x 11" x 16" and, if a piece of wood 11"
+wide is not obtainable, two narrow pieces will have to be joined. (See
+method of joining wood on page 18.)
+
+The four uprights are made 1" x 1" x 6-1/4", and the four cross pieces
+5/8" x 1" x 8".
+
+The ends of the cross pieces are cut at a bevel, as shown, and notches
+are cut 1-1/8" from each end, 1/8" deep, to receive the ends of the
+upright. Care must be taken to get a snug fit. It is better to have the
+notches a trifle too small than too large. If cut a little small, the
+uprights are easily made to fit the grooves by planing a slight amount
+from their edges.
+
+Four bottom pieces are made 1/4" x 1-1/4" x 1-1/4", to be attached to
+the lower cross piece, as shown, allowing 1/8" projection all around.
+They are fastened with 1/2" brads and glue. When attaching, see that the
+grain of the little square pieces runs the same as the cross pieces. On
+account of the thinness of the wood, holes may have to be bored for the
+brads. If no small drill is at hand a brad may be used as a drill.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 29._
+
+_COLONIAL DOLL'S TABLE_]
+
+Holes are bored in the two upper cross pieces, 3/4" from their ends.
+These are countersunk to receive 3/4" No.6 flat-head screws, when
+assembling, and are to hold the top in place.
+
+Holes are likewise bored for the same size screws, 1-5/8" from each end
+of the four cross pieces, which brings the holes in the center of each
+notch. These holes are also countersunk.
+
+The long lower brace is made 5/16" x 2-1/2" x 12". When assembling, this
+piece is located as shown in the drawing and is held in place with glue
+and 1/2" brads.
+
+Sand all pieces carefully with No.1 sandpaper first and finish with No.
+0.
+
+If stain is to be used, it may be found easier to stain the pieces
+before assembling. Assemble as previously described, using glue where
+necessary and turning all screws up tightly. Apply final finish as
+desired.
+
+
+
+
+COLONIAL DOLL'S CHAIR.
+
+
+This chair goes with the Colonial Table shown in the preceding drawing
+(Plate 29), and at least two chairs should be made to form the set.
+
+The sides are first cut from 3/8" material, 5" wide and 11-1/2" long.
+
+A freehand curve, following the general design of the one shown, should
+be traced on a piece of paper, cut to the above size. After the outline
+is satisfactory, the design should be traced on the wood preparatory to
+cutting out. The cutting should be done with a coping saw, cutting to
+the line for a finish. Place the two sides together to see if they
+match. Variations should be trimmed down so that the pieces are exact
+duplicates.
+
+The back is next made, 3/8" x 5-1/8" x 10-3/4".
+
+The seat is made 3/8" x 4-1/2" x 5-1/8", and the front board of the seat
+measures 3/8" x 3-1/2" x 5-1/8". The seat is rounded on the front edge,
+and the front board of seat is beveled at top and bottom to set snugly
+under the seat, at the slight angle shown. This angle is obtained by
+measuring in 1-3/8" from the front, as shown in the side view.
+
+Sandpaper all pieces thoroughly and assemble the sides and back first,
+with glue and 3/4" brads. Set these brads below the surface and fill the
+cavity with hard beeswax. Assemble the seat and front board next, and
+then nail these between the sides of the chair, as shown in the drawing.
+
+Finish as desired. See Pages 15 to 18 for method of staining and
+painting.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 30._
+
+_COLONIAL DOLL'S CHAIR_]
+
+
+
+
+RING-THE-HOOK GAME.
+
+
+This game is very simple in construction yet affords a great deal of
+pleasure to young people. (Plate 31.)
+
+The desired outline, the dimensions for which are given in the drawing,
+is sketched on a piece of folded paper, as is shown by the sketch, and
+the design is then cut out and traced on a piece of wood cut from stock
+5/8" x 11" x 12".
+
+The cutting should be roughly done with a turning saw and finished
+carefully to the line with a chisel and file.
+
+A small chamfer gives a finished appearance if placed on the front edge.
+
+The board should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first, and
+then finished with No. 0. The final finish may be several coats of
+shellac or two coats of a bright lively color of paint. If a shellac
+finish is used, the numbers should be lettered in with water-proof India
+ink, after the first coat of shellac is dry, and the second coat should
+be applied over this.
+
+If paint is the finish selected, the numbers may be put on with the ink
+after the final coat is dry.
+
+Hooks are located at the various points shown on the drawing, and pains
+should be taken to get them in perpendicular to the surface of the
+board. Place a screw-hook at the top to hang up by.
+
+The rings used are the ordinary preserve jar rings and ten should
+constitute a set.
+
+The board should be placed on the wall, about five feet from the floor
+and the contestants should stand about six feet from it.
+
+The idea is to toss the rings in such a manner that they will land over
+the hooks. The best results are obtained by holding the ring between the
+thumb and the first two fingers, at right angles to the floor. Throw in
+such a way that the ring will strike flat against the board. With a
+little practice considerable accuracy can be developed in placing the
+rings.
+
+A score of one hundred should constitute a game.
+
+
+
+
+FIVE POST RING TOSS.
+
+
+Although the game of ring toss is an old one, yet it never loses its
+attraction for many young people, and older ones as well.
+
+The type of ring toss shown in the accompanying plate is a little
+variety from the regular form, each post being painted and numbered with
+the points scored by ringing that particular post. (Plate 32.)
+
+The middle post, painted black, is a minus score, the ring falling on
+this causing a loss of five points.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 31._
+
+_RING THE HOOK GAME_]
+
+The rings, five in number, are painted at their joining points with
+colors similar to the posts. If a ring falls over a post of the same
+color as that painted on the ring the score is doubled. A black ring on
+the black post doubles the loss. The board should be set on the floor
+about eight feet from the contestants. The best results can be obtained
+by holding the rings by the thick, heavy part, parallel to the floor,
+and tossing quite high in order that they may fall flat from a point
+above the posts.
+
+[Illustration: The Ring Toss.]
+
+The posts are made with a tenon, which fits snugly in a mortise, and are
+removable so that they may be taken out when not in use. The rings may
+be made of various materials, such as rope and rattan. A very
+satisfactory ring is made by the writer's classes, by using chair
+spline. This is a rattan, light, cheap and easily bent, and may be
+bought of any firm dealing in upholstery and chair-seating materials. A
+piece about 17" long is bent in circular form, overlapping about an inch
+and held with two 1/2" brads, cleated on the underside, as shown. Wrap
+with white friction tape.
+
+The base of the ring toss is first cut 7/8" x 15" x 20". The center of
+each side and end is located and these points are connected, forming a
+diamond shape. Cut to this line and plane the edges smooth. Plane a 1/8"
+chamfer around the upper edge.
+
+Post A is made 1" x 1" x 11-3/4"; posts B and C are 1" x 1" x 8-1/4";
+post D, 1" x 1" x 5-1/4"; and post E, 1" x 1" x 6-3/4". All of these
+posts are chamfered about 1/8" at the top.
+
+It will be noticed, by referring to the drawing of the side view, that
+each post is an inch square for a certain distance up and from that
+point they taper to 1/2" square at the top. These measurements are
+figured from the shoulder where they rest upon the board, there being a
+1/2" tenon below. These tenons are cut so that they will be 1/2" square
+and 3/4" long.
+
+All holes or mortises are located 1-1/2" directly in from the corner or
+point at which they rest, except the center post, which is at the center
+point of the board. These mortises should be a fairly tight fit, yet
+allowing for the removal of the uprights when not in use.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 32._
+
+_FIVE POST RING-TOSS_]
+
+The color scheme is suggested on the drawing but may be changed to suit
+the individual taste. After painting or shellacking the board the first
+coat, the numbers should be lettered in, using waterproof India ink, and
+then the second coat applied.
+
+
+
+
+BEAN BAG GAME.
+
+
+This is another very popular and interesting game and gives the girls in
+the domestic science course a little opportunity to show their skill in
+making the bags. These should be cut so that they will finish about four
+inches square and one end left open so that they may be filled about
+three-fourths full of beans, peas or small pebbles. The end is then
+sewed up. Burlap, ticking or any odd pieces of cloth may be used for the
+bags.
+
+The board itself will, no doubt, have to be glued up from two or more
+boards in order to have the finished size 20" wide by 24" long. (Plate
+33.) Half inch bass or whitewood is suitable.
+
+A piece of paper should be cut 20" x 24" and folded so that it is 12" x
+20". Trace the outline on this paper, cut and unfold and lay on the
+board and trace around this. Cut to the line, using a turning saw and
+chisel and perhaps a wood file on the curves.
+
+[Illustration: Boys as well as Girls enjoy the Bean Bag Game.]
+
+The openings are located, as shown by the drawing. The centers are first
+obtained, and then the widths and lengths are measured from these center
+lines. Holes are next bored, as shown by the small sketch, with a 3/4"
+bit, and either a turning or a keyhole saw is used to cut out the
+pieces. If a turning saw is used, the blade must first be unfastened at
+one end, inserted in the hole and re tightened on the opposite side.
+Finish carefully to the line with chisel and file.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 33._
+
+_BEAN BAG GAME_]
+
+A small block 1/2" x 1-1/2" x 2-1/8" is attached to the back of the
+board with 3/4" No. 6 flat-head screws. This is to hold the hinge.
+
+The long brace is made 1/2" x 2-1/8" x 18-1/2" and is held to the small
+block by the hinge spoken of previously. A screw-eye is placed about 2"
+from the lower end of this brace and a wire or stout cord runs from this
+to similar screw-eyes, placed on the back of the main board about 2"
+from the bottom edge and 3" from the side edges. The cord or wire should
+be of sufficient length to cause the board to tip at about 60 degrees.
+
+After the board has been carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first and
+then finished with No. 0, the whole board should receive a coat of white
+shellac. After allowing this to dry over night, it should be rubbed down
+lightly with fine sandpaper and the numbers 2, 3 and 5 lettered on with
+black waterproof India ink. Apply another coat of shellac, or two more
+if necessary.
+
+Paint may be used instead of shellac as a finish, in which case the
+numbers should be put on with paint of a contrasting color to show up
+well.
+
+The little sketch in the drawing shows the back braces made the same as
+those on the Dart Game Board. While this is a little more difficult than
+the simple screw-eye and wire arrangement, it is much more satisfactory.
+
+
+
+
+DART BOARD GAME.
+
+
+This game has proven very popular, not only with the young folks, but
+with the grown-ups as well. Any game where skill and accuracy may be
+developed has a strong appeal to both boys and girls as well.
+
+The board illustrated in Plate 34, should be made of soft wood--bass,
+pine or white wood is suitable--and cut to 15" wide by 21-1/2" long,
+from 7/8" material. The top edge is chamfered 1/4".
+
+The surface should be thoroughly planed and sanded and given a coat of
+white shellac. While this is drying, the rear supporting braces may be
+gotten out. The main support is 7/8" x 2-1/8" x 19". A hole is bored
+with a No. 10 bit, 1-9/16" from the end, and a piece is sawed out 5/8"
+wide from the opposite end to this hole. See the drawing for detail. A
+piece of 1/4" dowel is glued in the end to reinforce the piece, as
+shown.
+
+The smaller piece Y is cut 7/8" x 3/8" x 17" and is held to piece X by a
+quarter-inch dowel, as shown. A brass cup hook is screwed into the end
+which is connected with a brass screw-eye placed in the back of the
+board, 2-1/4" from the bottom edge.
+
+[Illustration: The Dart Board in Use.]
+
+The small block X is 7/8" x 1-1/2" x 2-1/8" and is attached, as
+indicated, with glue and two 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws.
+
+The long brace X is attached to this by a 2" butt hinge and 1" flat-head
+screws.
+
+This folding arrangement has proven very satisfactory. The board packs
+nicely and stands rigidly when in position for playing. However, a
+simpler bracing may be used. The long brace X may be a solid piece 7/8"
+x 2-1/8" x 19", with a screw-eye on the underside from which a wire can
+run to a similar screw-eye on the back of the board. The wire can be
+adjusted so that the board will slope at the proper angle.
+
+After being sanded, the surface of the board should be given a coat of
+shellac and after drying should be rubbed down with No. 1/2 sandpaper.
+
+The circles should now be struck with a compass and waterproof ink, the
+diameters given, using a fairly heavy line. After the ink is dry give
+another coat of shellac. When this is dry the board is ready to have the
+colors applied to the circles.
+
+First paint circle A black and circle C red, painting just to the circle
+edge. Allow this to dry thoroughly, and then paint circle B yellow and
+circle D green. When these are dry, it may be necessary to strike all
+the circles again with ink.
+
+Where shown, letter in the numbers to score the game. It will be noticed
+that the small outside circles are minus numbers.
+
+Give the entire board and braces a finishing coat of shellac.
+
+
+Darts.
+
+The darts may be whittled out by hand, but the most satisfactory ones
+are turned out on the lathe to the dimensions shown. A 1-1/2" brad
+should be driven half its length into the rounded end, the head cut off
+with cutting pliers, and the end pointed with a fine file.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 34._
+
+_DART GAME BOARD_]
+
+At the opposite end two holes should be drilled of a size large enough
+to receive the ends of wing or tail feathers of some accommodating fowl.
+These should be dipped in glue and pressed into place.
+
+About six of these darts should be made and the wooden parts painted in
+bright colors. Birch or maple are good woods to use.
+
+The board should be placed on the floor, about ten feet from a given
+station point, and each contestant should be allowed to throw the six
+darts. The score should then be counted. Darts landing on a line should
+be credited to the lower number. One dart landing on and sticking to
+another, doubles the score of the first dart. Darts not sticking in the
+board are not allowed to be re-thrown. Darts knocked out by other darts
+lose their score.
+
+One thousand points should constitute a game.
+
+The points of the darts may be sharpened from time to time with a fine
+file.
+
+
+
+
+WIND MILL.
+
+
+This is an interesting toy to place on the top of the shed or garage
+where the wind will have a chance to revolve the brightly colored wheel
+at a good rate. It also serves as a weather vane.
+
+[Illustration: Three Kinds of Wind Mills and the Sand or Water Mill.]
+
+The main part of the mill (Plate 35) is made up of four pieces of half
+inch stock, two being 3-1/2" x 4-3/4" and two 2-1/2" x 4-3/4". The two
+larger sides taper to 2-1/2" wide at the top and the two smaller pieces
+to 1/2". The top piece forming the roof is made from a piece of wood
+1-3/4" thick. If wood of this thickness is not available, several
+thinner pieces must be glued together. It is cut 3-1/2" x 3-1/2" and a
+line is drawn around the edge 3/8" from the lower sides. From this line
+the roof tapers to a point directly over the middle of the piece, as
+shown.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 35._
+
+_WIND MILL_]
+
+The long support, on which the mill rests, is made 1/2" x 1-1/4" x
+10-1/4". Two holes are bored and countersunk for the screws which hold
+it to the mill base. A similar hole is bored from the opposite end for
+the screw which holds in place the round piece A.
+
+The circular piece marked A on the side view, is made 3/8" x 2-1/2". A
+hole is bored 1/2" deep with a quarter inch bit on the edge. The piece C
+is a quarter inch dowel, 7-3/4" long. A hole is bored with a quarter
+inch bit in the roof, at a slant, as is shown in the side view. This
+hole is 3/8" deep.
+
+The dowel piece C fits in these holes when assembled, being held with
+glue.
+
+The smaller base piece, which is attached to the bottom of the mill with
+glue and 1" brads, is made 1/2" x 4" x 5". The small piece, on which the
+vanes of the mill turn, is made from a piece of half inch dowel, cut
+1-1/2" long. A hole is bored in the roof piece 1/2" deep to receive
+this. A smaller hole is drilled in the outer end of this dowel to
+receive a 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screw on which the vanes revolve.
+
+A piece is now cut 3/4" x 7/8" x 7" to serve as the supporting piece on
+which the whole mill turns. On one end a notch is cut, as shown in the
+drawing, 3/8" deep and 1-1/2" long. Two screw holes are bored in this
+notch to allow the piece to be attached to the shed or roof. On the
+opposite end a hole is bored in the center, 3/4" deep and with a drill
+that will insure a 16-penny nail fitting very tightly. One of these
+nails should be driven in and the headed end cut off so as to allow a
+projection of 1" beyond the end of the wood. The end of this nail should
+be filed smooth and round.
+
+A hole is bored to receive this in the base pieces, as shown in the
+drawing, extending through both pieces and large enough for the nail to
+turn freely within. A washer should be placed over this to insure the
+mill turning easily.
+
+The two pieces for the vane of the mill are made 3/4" x 1" x 5-1/2".
+Each vane is chiseled at an angle, sloping in one direction at one end
+and in the opposite direction at the other, allowing at least 1/8" for
+the thickness. Considerable pains should be used in shaping these vanes
+to insure even balance. File and sand these smooth.
+
+A middle lap joint is made exactly in the center of each vane, cutting
+half through on each piece and making a smooth, flush fit. Hold the
+vanes together with glue and 1/2" brads at this point and carefully bore
+a hole at the center large enough to allow a 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head
+screw to turn easily.
+
+A small washer is placed under the head of the screw and one between the
+rear of the vanes and the end of the supporting dowel. Turn the screw up
+tight enough to allow the vanes to clear nicely.
+
+All pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first and
+finished with No. 0. Paint all pieces before assembling.
+
+A suggested color scheme is shown in the drawing.
+
+
+
+
+WIND MILL.
+
+(Type B.)
+
+
+This is another interesting action toy and makes a very pleasing
+addition to the top of a garage or barn. (Plate 36.) Children also enjoy
+toys of this sort at the beaches where they can build up little villages
+in the sand.
+
+The four long uprights are made 1/2" x 1/2" x 19". The top piece, which
+is eight sided, is first made 1/2" x 3-1/4" x 3-1/4". Then 3/4" is
+measured in from each corner and these points are connected and the
+lines cut carefully with a saw. A hole is bored in the center with a bit
+a little smaller than a 1-3/4" No. 8 screw.
+
+The piece to which the long uprights are attached is next made, 1/2" x
+2-1/4" x 2-1/4". Measure in from each corner, on the upper surface,
+5/8", and from each corner on the lower edge measure in 1/2". Draw
+these sloping lines from top to bottom points and saw these corner
+pieces out very carefully. A hole is bored in the center of this piece
+similar to the hole bored in the previous piece.
+
+Attach the long uprights to this piece with glue and 1-1/4" brads,
+trimming the top ends of the uprights with a chisel and file until they
+are flush with the surface of the top piece.
+
+Carefully spread the uprights until they are 9-1/2" apart from outside
+to outside, as shown. Mark off points on the inside edges 4" up from the
+bottom ends and 7-1/4" above the first marks. These points are to locate
+the places where the cross pieces go.
+
+Cut the eight cross braces 1/2" x 1/2" and sufficiently long to fit
+nicely at these points between the uprights. It will be noticed that
+they will have to be cut at a slight angle. Attach these braces with
+glue and 1-1/4" brads, seeing that they are all even and parallel with
+the floor when setting upright.
+
+The angle braces are made 1/2" x 1/2" x 11" and cross each other with a
+halved joint, as shown. The ends are cut at an angle to conform to the
+slope of the uprights and are attached to them by 1" brads and glue.
+
+Piece E is now made, 1-1/4" x 1-1/4" x 2", and is tapered to 3/4" square
+at the upper end. This is done by measuring in 1/4" from each upper
+corner and drawing to the lower corners and cutting to the line. A
+small hole is bored in the center of the upper end to start the screw
+which holds piece B in place.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 36._
+
+_WIND MILL_ (_type B_)]
+
+Piece B is made 3/4" x 3/4" x 5-1/2" and has a slot cut in it, 1/4" wide
+and 2-3/8" long, as shown. The inside end of the slot is cut at a slight
+angle to receive the slope of tailpiece C. A hole is bored 3-1/4" from
+the slot end of this piece, of a size to turn freely on a 1-1/2" No. 8
+round-head screw.
+
+Tail C is made 1/4" x 4" x 6" and then 1/2" is measured up from the
+lower right end corner and 1/2" measured in from this point toward the
+left and a dot is placed. Draw lines from this dot to the
+lower-left-hand corner and to the upper-right-hand corner. Round all of
+these corners, using a 1/2" radius and carefully finish to the lines all
+around.
+
+The vanes A must be very carefully made to insure a close fit and proper
+balance. Two pieces are cut 7/8" x 1-1/4" x 7". The method of forming
+the vanes will be more easily understood by referring to the detail,
+where every measurement is plainly given. The two vanes are joined with
+a middle lap joint, which requires considerable skill in forming. Each
+piece is cut half way through at its middle point, seeing that the
+groove is no wider than the width of the piece that goes within it.
+
+The two vanes are joined with glue and four 3/4" brads.
+
+A hole is bored in the center, of a size that will turn easily on a
+1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screw.
+
+Sand all pieces well with No. 1/2 sandpaper.
+
+Paint the various pieces as suggested in the color scheme and attach the
+tail C to piece B with glue and 1/2" brads.
+
+The vanes A are attached to piece B with a 1-1/2" round-head screw, with
+washers under the screw head and between the vanes and piece B. Piece B
+is attached to block E with a 1-1/2" round-head screw, with washers
+under the screw head and between B and E.
+
+Have all movable parts so that they will move freely.
+
+A finish nail may be placed in the lower part of each leg to secure the
+mill to the desired location.
+
+
+
+
+SAND OR WATER MILL.
+
+
+This is an interesting beach toy as either fine sand or water may be
+used to operate it. (Plate 37.) It is very simple to construct and is
+made as follows: The base is constructed of 1/2" pine, 7-1/2" wide and
+7-1/2" long; and the four blocks which are glued and bradded to the
+corners, are 1/2" x 1" x 1". The two uprights are 3/4" x 7/8" x 8-1/4",
+and the two cross supports at the tops measure 3/4" x 7/8" x 2-1/2".
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 37._
+
+_SAND OR WATER MILL_]
+
+Two holes are bored in the base for the screws that hold the uprights in
+place. These holes are 2-3/4" from the end and 2-1/8" from the sides.
+
+Holes are bored in the little top braces 1/2" from the two ends and one
+just in the middle, or 1-1/4" from the ends. These are for the screws
+that hold the braces to the uprights and to the top piece. All holes are
+bored with a drill suitable to take 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws, and
+all are countersunk on the side where the screw enters.
+
+The top piece is made 1/2" x 5-1/4" x 5-1/2" with the two front corners
+slightly rounded, as shown.
+
+A hole is bored of a size to receive the funnel used, 1-1/2" from the
+front edge and 2-5/8" from the sides.
+
+A hole is drilled in each upright piece, 3-1/2" from the lower end, of a
+size that will insure a driving fit to the wire used, in this case being
+a piece of No. 12 copper-dipped, 4-3/4" long.
+
+A piece of 3/4" dowel is cut off 7/8" long and a similar hole is bored
+about two-thirds of the way through, as shown.
+
+Four holes are bored, as indicated on the drawing, for the quills, which
+are later glued in place. Feathers from the poultry yard will furnish
+these.
+
+Sand all pieces with No. 1 sandpaper and first assemble the top, the
+two uprights and the two cross supports. Paint these two coats of red
+paint.
+
+Attach the cross blocks to the base with glue and 3/4" brads and paint
+two coats of yellow. Paint the tunnel two coats of bright green.
+
+While these are drying construct the paddle wheel. The piece through
+which the wire axle runs is 3/4" x 3/4" x 2-1/4". The four blades are
+1/4" x 2-1/4" x 2-3/4".
+
+After these are sanded and a hole is bored through the center piece,
+nail the blades to the center piece, in the position shown in the side
+view. Use 3/4" brads and glue for fastening the blades. Paint two coats
+of yellow.
+
+When the parts so far assembled are thoroughly dry, finish the assembly,
+using 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws and glue.
+
+The toy is now ready to operate.
+
+
+
+
+DOLL'S CRADLE.
+
+
+A cradle built according to Plate 38 is suitable for a doll sixteen or
+seventeen inches in length.
+
+The two sides should be first made 1/2" x 6-1/2" x 20". These are later
+beveled slightly on their lower edge to conform to the slope of the head
+and foot board.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 38._
+
+_DOLL'S CRADLE_]
+
+Measure from one end along the top edge 7-1/4" and from the other end
+11-1/4". From this last end the width of the side is cut down to 4-1/2",
+as far as the 11-1/4" measurement previously made. Connect the point
+which is 7-1/4" from the left end with the point which is 11-1/4" from
+the right end. This gives a slope of approximately 30 degrees, as is
+shown in the side view. Slightly round the corners, as indicated.
+
+The head board is next made 1/2" x 7" x 8-3/4".
+
+Measure in, on one of the long edges, an inch from either corner, and
+from these points draw straight lines to the upper corners. Cut
+carefully to this line. This makes the lower edge 6-3/4" long. The upper
+corners are rounded, as shown.
+
+The foot board is made in a similar manner, first cutting it 1/2" x 5" x
+8". Place the head and foot board together to see if they exactly
+correspond. If not, plane or saw them while together so they are exactly
+alike, except in height.
+
+The four pieces so far completed may now be assembled, using glue and 1"
+brads.
+
+See that this frame sets flat when placed on a level surface.
+
+The base is next made 1/2" x 8-3/4" x 20". The two rockers are cut 3/4"
+x 2-3/4" x 13-1/2".
+
+It is a good plan to cut a piece of paper the above size, fold across
+the short way and sketch on the folded surface one-half the rocker
+shape. When this has been done in a satisfactory manner it may be
+unfolded, cut out and drawn on wood. The rocker ends have a slight
+shoulder of 1/8", as shown. In sloping the rockers, get them alike and
+make the curve such as will cause them to rock with a very slight
+pressure.
+
+[Illustration: Two Types of Doll Cradles.]
+
+Holes are bored with a small drill in the base, 2-1/2" from the ends and
+1-1/2" from the sides. A hole is also bored half way between the two, as
+shown, and all are countersunk on the upper side.
+
+Attach the rockers with glue and 1" No. 6 flat-head screws.
+
+See that they project equally on the sides and are square with the
+edges.
+
+Now nail the rocker base to the upper frame previously made, using 1"
+brads and glue. Have the base project equally from the upper frame on
+each side and come flush with the ends.
+
+All pieces should have been carefully sanded, of course, before
+assembling.
+
+The next, and last step is the final finish. If paint is to be the
+finish, select the desired color and apply a priming and a finish coat.
+Follow directions in the front of the book for painting.
+
+
+
+
+COLONIAL DOLL CRADLE.
+
+
+The type of cradle, shown in Plate 39, is similar in many ways to the
+one on the last plate. It is, however, more artistic and somewhat more
+difficult to make.
+
+Follow directions on the last plate for making rockers, base and
+footboard.
+
+The headboard is cut 1/2" x 8-3/4" x 10-7/8".
+
+Place a center line, longways of the piece, as shown in the end view. At
+the top measure 1-1/4" each side of the center line and make a dot. At
+the base measure 3-3/8" each side of the center line and place a dot.
+
+Measure 1-3/4" from the top edge, on each side. Connect these points, as
+shown in the end view. Cut carefully to the lines. Test the head and
+footboard to see if they compare.
+
+Make the two sides of the cradle next 1/2" x 9-1/4" x 20".
+
+Seven inches from one end and 6-1/4" from the lower edge strike a circle
+1-3/8" in radius. From the lower edge of this circle draw a line
+parallel to the base. This will make the narrow part of the sides 4-1/2"
+wide.
+
+From the point directly over the center of the circle, square a line to
+the top edge of the side. The outline of the side is now ready to be cut
+out. If an expansive bit is obtainable, bore the hole from the center of
+the circle with the bit set at 1-3/8" radius. If this bit is not
+obtainable, the hole must be cut out with a key-hole or a turning saw
+after first cutting to the circle, along the other lines previously
+drawn.
+
+The short top edge of the sides should now be beveled to conform to the
+slope of the head board.
+
+Next make the two top pieces which form the sloping part of the roof.
+These are 1/2" x 5-1/4" x 7-3/4". These must be planed at their top edge
+to quite a sharp bevel until they are even with the top of the head
+board.
+
+The top piece is the final piece cut, and this is 1/2" x 4-3/4" x
+7-3/4".
+
+The pieces should now be carefully sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper and the
+sides and ends assembled with glue and 1" brads.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 39._
+
+_COLONIAL DOLL CRADLE_]
+
+The roof pieces are next placed. Be sure that the top piece sits flat
+and overhangs equally on both sides.
+
+Holes are bored in the bottom piece for screws, 2-7/8" from the ends and
+1-1/2" from the sides. A third hole is bored at each end half way
+between the other two, as shown, and all are countersunk.
+
+Attach the rockers with glue and 1" flat-head screws, being careful that
+they project equally on both sides and are at right angles with the
+edges of the base.
+
+The final finish is optional, but if the cradle is to be painted or
+enameled it should first receive a priming coat of flat white. See
+directions for painting in the first part of the book.
+
+
+
+
+DOLL'S BED.
+
+
+The bed illustrated in Plate 40, is suitable for the ordinary size doll,
+16" to 18" in length.
+
+The four legs should first be cut, the two long ones being 7/8" x 7/8" x
+12" and the two short ones 7/8" x 7/8" x 9-1/4".
+
+These should be planed up square and smooth and the top edges chamfered
+1/16", as shown.
+
+The two side rails are next made 3/8" x 2-1/2" x 20-1/2".
+
+The four cross rails, two on the head board and two on the foot board,
+are made 1/2" x 7/8" x 8-3/4".
+
+Seven slats are next made 3/8" x 1-1/4" x 8".
+
+Two long supporting slats, on which the seven slats previously made
+rest, are now made 3/8" x 1" x 19-1/4".
+
+Three upright slats are now made for the head board, two being 3/8" x
+1-3/4" x 8", and one 3/8" x 3" x 8". Three similar slats are made for
+the foot board, two 3/8" x 1-3/4" x 5-1/4" and one 3/8" x 3" x 5-1/4".
+
+Seven holes should be carefully bored where the cross rails and legs are
+joined. Use a small drill about 1/8" in diameter.
+
+These holes are 2-1/2" up from the bottom end of the legs and 1" down
+from the top ends. In assembling these parts, use glue, brads and 1-1/2"
+No. 8 round-head screws, as shown on the drawing. Next place the slats,
+as indicated, using glue and 1-1/4" brads. Take pains to space these
+properly and center them on the cross piece. All brad holes, wherever
+placed, should be set with a nail set and the hole filled with hard
+beeswax.
+
+In nailing in the brads, rest the bottom support on the corner of the
+bench, so as not to strain the cross piece or legs in pounding with the
+hammer.
+
+Next attach the long side rails, having their ends come flush with the
+outer side of the leg. Use glue and 1" brads. See that the rails are
+attached square with the long edges of legs. The two shorter supporting
+rails (3/8" x 1" x 19-1/4"), are next nailed to the lower cross pieces
+at the head and foot of the bed, and close up against the long side
+rails. A few brads, 1" long, should be driven through from the side
+rails into these to help secure them in place.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 40._
+
+_DOLL'S BED_]
+
+The seven cross slats are carefully spaced, glued, and nailed in place
+with 1/2" brads. While nailing, place a block of wood beneath the ends
+for a bearing.
+
+All pieces should have been sanded previous to assembling, and the bed
+may now be either stained or painted. If painted, a priming coat should
+be applied first. After this has dried it should be carefully sanded
+with No. 0 sandpaper and the finish coat applied.
+
+Considerable care should be taken in the painting to insure a good,
+clean-cut job. Refer back to the first of the book for necessary
+instructions for painting.
+
+There is an opportunity here for the older sister to help in preparing
+the bedding.
+
+
+
+
+TWO TYPES OF STILTS.
+
+
+(Type A Stilt.)
+
+Most every boy knows there is a certain fascination in walking on
+stilts, but they may prove a dangerous pastime if not strongly made.
+
+In this style of stilt (Type A, Plate 41) the uprights are held beneath
+the arm pits.
+
+The upright pieces should be made 7/8" x 1-3/8" x 5', or as long as the
+boy desires. Hard pine or ash make strong, durable stilts. The edges of
+the upright should be slightly rounded so that they will fit the hand
+nicely.
+
+[Illustration: Two Kinds of Stilts.]
+
+Holes are bored with a 1/4" bit, 17" from the lower end and 2-1/2"
+apart, as shown. The upper hole is countersunk to receive a 2-1/2" No.
+12 flat-head screw.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 41._
+
+_STILTS_]
+
+The foot rests are made 1" x 3-1/2" x 5" and shaped, as indicated on the
+drawing.
+
+They are secured to the uprights with screws and 1/4" x 3" round-head
+stove bolts. Several holes at various heights could be bored to allow of
+adjusting the foot rest to suit the user of the stilt.
+
+The uprights can be painted red and the foot rests green, or the whole
+can be left plain, according to the desires of the maker. A touch of
+paint, however, not only adds to the appearance of any article, but also
+preserves it and lengthens its life.
+
+
+(Type B Stilt.)
+
+Type B stilt (Plate 41) is made shorter than Type A and is to be
+strapped to the leg just above the knee.
+
+The uprights are 1" x 1-3/8" x 36", or longer if desired.
+
+Round the edges of the uprights and bore holes at the same places and of
+the same size as in Type A.
+
+A strap is screwed on, as is shown in the drawing, to support the feet,
+and another strap, long enough to go around the leg beneath the knee, is
+attached at the upper end, 2" from the top.
+
+Sandpaper thoroughly and finish to suit.
+
+A pole about seven feet long should be carried to balance and steady
+oneself.
+
+[Illustration: Two Kinds of Carts and a Dump Wagon (in front).]
+
+
+
+
+CHILD'S CART.
+
+
+Carts always appeal to youngsters and the one given here (Plate 42) is
+of simple construction.
+
+Make the side pieces first 1/2" x 6" x 10". On one long edge measure in
+2-1/2" and from this point draw a line to the upper corner. Cut
+carefully to this line. The front piece is made 1/2" x 6" x 6" and the
+end piece 1/2" x 6" x 6-3/4". This end piece is beveled to conform to
+the top and bottom edges of the cart, as shown in the side view.
+
+The bottom piece is made 1/2" x 6" x 6-1/2".
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 42._
+
+_CHILD'S CART_]
+
+The piece to which the wheels are attached, is made 7/8" x 1" x 7-1/8".
+This piece has two holes bored and countersunk in it for screws, 1-1/4"
+from the ends and half way between the sides.
+
+Two small blocks are made 1/2" x 1" x 2-1/2" and tapered 3/4", as shown.
+These blocks have holes bored and countersunk for screws. Bore the holes
+in such a manner that they will not come directly opposite each other,
+otherwise the screws will be likely to hit each other.
+
+Holes are bored in the front piece of the cart and countersunk on the
+inner side. These pieces are 3" from either side, the first one being
+2-1/4" from the upper edge and the second an inch below the first.
+
+The handle measures 7/8" x 1" x 30". A hole is bored 5/8" from the front
+end with a half-inch bit and the extreme end of the handle is slightly
+chamfered for a finish. The opposite end of the handle is cut at an
+angle of 30 deg., as shown.
+
+A piece of dowel, 1/2" in diameter and 3" long, is cut and inserted in
+the hole in the handle and secured by driving an inch brad in from the
+under side of the handle.
+
+The wheels are 7/8" x 5" and may be cut out with a turning saw and
+trimmed to the line with a chisel, or, if a lathe is available, they can
+quickly be cut to size. If they are to be sawed out, a circle should be
+struck with a divider or compass set at a 2-1/2" radius and then
+carefully cut to the line.
+
+The axle is attached to the bottom piece with glue and 1-1/4" No. 8
+flat-head screws.
+
+Bore a hole in the end of the axle, exactly in the center, using a drill
+slightly smaller than the screw that is to hold the wheels in position.
+Bore a hole in each wheel, at the center point, a little larger than the
+screw that is to be used. Attach the wheels with 1-1/2" No. 10
+round-head blue screws, using a small washer under the screw head and
+also between the wheel and the cart body. Tighten the screw just enough
+to allow a little play for the wheels to turn easily.
+
+Sand all pieces thoroughly before assembling, using No. 1 sandpaper
+first and finishing with No. 0. Assemble the body part of the cart with
+glue and 1" brads.
+
+A suggested color scheme is given in the drawing.
+
+
+
+
+CHILD'S DUMP WAGON.
+
+
+This toy at once appeals to the children as it only requires a simple
+turn of the crank to quickly dump the load of sand.
+
+Each part of this toy is completely detailed in Plate 44, while Plate 43
+gives the assembly drawing.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 43._
+
+_CHILD'S DUMP WAGON_]
+
+The two sides are first made 1/2" x 5-1/2" x 12", and the two ends 1/2"
+x 6" x 7-1/2". The sides are beveled about 1/8" on the lower edge so
+that they will conform to the angle of the end piece. The ends taper
+from 7-1/2" long at the top to 5-5/8" at the bottom. This angle is
+obtained by measuring in 15/16" from either side and drawing to the
+opposite upper corner. Saw and finish to this line and slightly round
+the upper corners, as shown. Bore a hole with a 1/2" bit at the point
+indicated.
+
+The bottom piece is made 1/2" x 6-5/8" x 12".
+
+Sand these five pieces and assemble, using 1-1/4" brads and glue. Plane
+the side edges of the bottom board to the same angle as the slope of the
+sides.
+
+The two end uprights are now made 1/2" x 6-3/4" x 8". Measure up 2-1/4"
+on the short edges and place a dot. Connect these points with a sloping
+line and saw and finish to the outline shown. Bore holes with a 1/2" bit
+at the place indicated. Locate and bore a screw hole 1/2" up from the
+center of the lower edge to attach brace block.
+
+Make two small supporting blocks 7/8" x 1-3/4" x 1-3/4". Bore a 1/2"
+hole carefully in the center and drill four smaller holes to receive
+1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws, 3/8" from each other, as shown.
+Countersink these four holes.
+
+Glue and screw these blocks to the end of the wagon box, 1-1/4" from the
+top edge, as shown.
+
+Make two brace blocks by first cutting out a square 7/8" x 1" x 1" and
+cutting this in two diagonally from corner to corner. Glue and screw
+these blocks to the end uprights, using 1" No. 6 flat-head screws.
+
+The underbody should next be made 1/2" x 8" x 18-1/2".
+
+Measure in 3-1/4" from each corner on the long edge, and with the
+dividers set at 2-1/4", strike a quarter circle and connect these arcs
+with straight lines, making the width in the middle 4-1/2". Saw this out
+with a coping saw and finish smoothly to the line.
+
+Locate and drill the twelve screw holes shown, with a drill the size of
+a No. 6 screw.
+
+Countersink all holes, except the four holes which hold the supports for
+the cart handle. These four are not countersunk as 1" No. 6 round-head
+screws are used at these points.
+
+Attach the end uprights to the underbody with glue and 1" No. 6
+flat-head screws, eight in all.
+
+Next make the two axles 7/8" x 1" x 8-1/4" and bore and countersink the
+three holes, on the narrow edge, at the points indicated. Glue and screw
+these in place, 1-1/4" from the front and rear ends, using 1-1/4" No. 8
+flat-head screws. These axles project 1/8" beyond the sides of the
+underbody, on all sides, so as to allow the wheels to turn without
+interference.
+
+The wheels may be made on a lathe or with a turning saw, 7/8" thick and
+all exactly 4" in diameter. Bore a hole in their center with a drill a
+little larger than the wire of a 2" No. 10 round-head screw. When
+assembling, use a washer on each side of the wheel.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 44._
+
+_DETAILS OF DUMP WAGON_]
+
+A hole should be started about 3/8" deep in the center of the ends of
+the axle to insure the screws going in properly.
+
+The cart handle is made 1/2" x 1" x 30", with one end rounded and the
+opposite end chamfered 1/8". On the latter end measure in 5/8" on the
+wide side and bore a hole carefully with a 1/2" bit. Cut a piece from a
+1/2" dowel, 3-1/4" long, and insert it in this hole, keeping it in place
+with glue and one 7/8" brad.
+
+Bore a hole 1/2" from the rounded end with a 3/16" bit.
+
+The two pieces which hold the handle are now made 3/4" x 7/8" x 2-3/4".
+A 3/16" hole is bored in the 7/8" edge of these pieces, 1/2" from the
+end. These holes, and the hole in the handle, are to receive a
+round-head stove bolt, which is 3/16" x 2-1/4".
+
+Glue and screw these two pieces in place in the center of the front end
+of the underbody, leaving about 1/16" space between the handle and the
+edges of the blocks for freedom of movement.
+
+The dumping handle is made of pieces of dowel, the main piece being 1"
+in diameter by 4-1/2" long. The other pieces are cut from a half-inch
+dowel, 3" and 3-1/2" long, respectively.
+
+On the main dowel bore holes with a 1/2" bit, 3/4" from the ends, to
+receive the shorter dowels. Glue and insert the 3-1/4" dowel and bore a
+small hole to receive a 7/8" No. 6 round-head screw. Place this screw
+and then insert the dowel through the front upright into the front
+supporting block and flush with the inner surface of the front box end.
+Hold in place in the block with glue and a 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head
+screw.
+
+Glue and screw the 3" dowel in place for the grip.
+
+A piece of 1/2" dowel, 2" long, is similarly placed through the rear
+upright, thence into the rear supporting block and box end.
+
+This is also held with glue and a 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screw through
+the block.
+
+Sand and apply two coats of paint before assembling the wheels and
+handle.
+
+
+
+
+CHILD'S WHEELBARROW.
+
+(Type A.)
+
+
+The Child's Wheelbarrow, shown in Plate 45, is very serviceable and
+quite easy to make, and, if the directions are followed carefully, the
+result will be a toy that will outlast a majority of the toys ordinarily
+found on the store shelves.
+
+First, make the handles 7/8" x 1-1/4" x 30". Chamfer the handles, as
+shown, for four inches from one end.
+
+The two sides are made 1/2" x 5-1/2" x 15" and 1-1/2" is measured in on
+one long edge and a line drawn from this point to the lower corner. Saw
+and plane to this line and round the upper corner with a chisel and
+file.
+
+The end is 3/8" x 5-1/2" x 7-1/4". The bottom is first cut 1/2" x 11" x
+14". On one end measure in 1-7/8" from one side and a like distance from
+the other side. Connect these points with the opposite extreme corners
+and finish to these lines. The bottom is now tapered to 7-1/4" wide at
+the front end.
+
+Assemble the sides, the bottom and the end with glue and 1-1/2" finish
+nails, setting the front piece back 1/4" from the end of the sides, as
+shown in the drawing. Set all nails below the surface and fill the holes
+with beeswax.
+
+Place the assembled part on the handles in such a manner that the front
+end of the box part of the wheelbarrow is 5" from the front end of the
+handles, and the handles at the front end are 2" apart inside, and at
+the grip end 13" apart outside.
+
+While in this position, which is the permanent assembling position, mark
+the position of the six screw holes, which are bored with a drill of a
+size to receive a 1" No. 6 flat-head screw. Countersink these holes.
+
+The two legs are made 7/8" x 1" x 8-3/4" and beveled 1/4" at the lower
+end. On the upper end a notch is cut out 3/8" deep by 1-1/4" long. Two
+holes are bored, as indicated, to attach the leg to the handle. This is
+done with glue and 1" No. 6 round-head screws.
+
+[Illustration: Wheelbarrows.]
+
+A 1/2" dowel rod runs between the legs to brace them, and a hole is
+bored 3/8" deep in each leg, 2-1/2" from the lower end. The dowel is 9"
+long and is held in place with glue, and a 3/4" brad is driven in the
+leg to hold it firmly in place.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 45._
+
+_CHILD'S WHEELBARROW_ (_TYPE A_)]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 46._
+
+_CHILD'S WHEELBARROW_ (_TYPE B_)]
+
+A hole is bored very carefully 1-1/4" from the front end of the handles
+to receive the wheel axle. It will be noticed, by referring to the top
+view of the drawing, that on account of the taper of the handles this
+hole must be bored slightly on a slant and about half way through. The
+bit should be of a size to allow a piece of sixteen-penny nail to turn
+freely, as the axle should be made of a nail of this size, cut 3" long.
+
+The wheel is best made of hard wood, such as maple, 7/8" thick and 6" in
+diameter.
+
+Bore the hole in the center with the same drill just used.
+
+Next cut two pieces from a 1/2" dowel, 3/8" long, and bore a similar
+hole exactly through their center. These two pieces of dowel are glued
+to the wheel and serve to make it run in the center. When assembling,
+place a small washer between the dowels and handle, as shown.
+
+All pieces should have been carefully sanded before assembling, and the
+wheel should be painted red and allowed to dry before being put in
+place. The remainder of the wheelbarrow should be painted bright green.
+Apply two coats, rubbing down the first coat when dry with No. 0
+sandpaper before applying the second.
+
+
+
+
+CHILD'S WHEELBARROW.
+
+(Type B.)
+
+
+This style wheelbarrow (Plates 46 and 47) is planned exceptionally
+strong and sturdy and will stand a large amount of hard usage. It is
+made larger and stronger than Type A, and is naturally a little more
+difficult to make, but well within the ability of an eighth grade boy.
+This type has removable sideboards.
+
+The plate of details gives exact information how to make each piece, so
+it will not be necessary to give the directions here.
+
+After all pieces are correctly made and all holes are bored at the
+places indicated, each part should be sanded very carefully and made
+ready for assembling.
+
+Care should be taken to get good tight joints on the front brace, the
+wheel supports and the tops of the legs.
+
+The metal braces can be made from strips of zinc 1" x 4", bent over the
+braces W, allowing a little freedom for removing the sideboards. Holes
+should be drilled in these braces, where shown, to receive 1/2" No. 6
+round-head screws.
+
+First attach the bottom boards to the handles with 1" No. 6 flat-head
+screws, placing the ends of the handles even with the front of the
+bottom board and flush with the side edges.
+
+Next fasten the front and rear brace in place with 1-1/2" No. 8
+flat-head screws, on the under side, and with 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head
+screws and washers from the outside of the handle to the brace ends.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 47._
+
+_DETAILS OF TYPE B WHEELBARROW_]
+
+Fasten one wheel brace in its proper place with 1" No. 6 flat-head
+screws from the upper side of the bottom board.
+
+Place the axle of the wheel in the hole and attach the other wheel in
+the same manner.
+
+Glue and screw the front uprights in place, as indicated, with 1" No. 6
+round-head screws, and place the top cross piece on these and hold in
+place with glue and 1" round-head blue screws.
+
+Place the sides in position, with the front ends flush with the outer
+edges of the front braces. Place the metal braces over the supporting
+pieces and screw in place, using 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws.
+
+Braces X, which run from the wheel supports to the front piece of the
+wheelbarrow, are screwed in place, as shown, using 1-1/4" No. 8
+round-head screws.
+
+It will be noticed that the hole for the dowel stick in the leg only
+extends in 3/8". Place one leg in position, 14-1/2" from the ends of the
+handles, using glue and 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws. Insert the
+dowel stick in this leg and also in the second leg and secure the second
+leg in place. The dowel should have glue placed on its ends, and, after
+the legs are in place, an inch brad should be driven into each leg,
+through the dowel, to hold it firmly in place.
+
+The color scheme given in the drawing is a pleasing one. The wheel is
+painted two coats of red before being placed in position.
+
+
+
+
+CLOWN RUNNING WHEEL.
+
+
+This has proven a very popular toy and is not hard to construct.
+
+The legs and body may be made of pulp or Beaver board, a material which
+is very good, as it saws easily and will not split. Wood, however, may
+be used, if preferred.
+
+The details of the body and legs are full size and these may be
+transferred to the wood by the tracing method described at the beginning
+of the book. These pieces, when done, may be painted, if desired, and
+allowed to dry while the rest of the parts are being made. Bore all
+necessary holes shown in the drawing.
+
+The wheels are best turned on a lathe to 4" in diameter and a hole bored
+in the center of each of a size that will allow a 1/4" dowel to fit
+tightly. If no lathe is available, the wheel can be cut out with a
+turning saw and finished with a chisel and file. The wheels are best
+made from 1/4" maple. Two pieces of 3/8" dowel are cut 1/4" long and
+attached 1/2" above the center of the wheel, as shown. This is done on
+both wheels, and the piece is attached with glue and 1/2" brads. It is a
+good plan to bore holes for these brads and thus prevent the possible
+splitting of the wood. The dowel that goes between the wheels is made
+1/4" x 3/4" and is glued securely in the holes in the wheels later.
+Another piece of 1/4" dowel is cut 4" long, and is fitted to support the
+body of the clown on the handle.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 48._
+
+_DETAILS FOR CLOWN RUNNING WHEEL_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 49._
+
+_DETAILS FOR CLOWN RUNNING WHEEL_]
+
+The handle is made 7/8" x 1-1/8" x 30", and the grip is rounded and
+shaped, as shown on Plate 48. In the opposite end of the handle a slot
+is cut 1/16" wide and 1-1/2" long. This is to receive the strip of zinc
+which runs between the wheels. This strip of zinc is made of 1/16"
+material, 1" wide and 4-1/2" long. Triangular pieces are cut from one
+end, 1/4" on a side, as shown on the detail sheet. This strip is held in
+the slot in the handle by first drilling through both the wood and the
+zinc, with a drill the size of a 3/4" brad, and afterwards gluing and
+bradding the zinc into position with 3/4" brads. A hole, 1/4" in
+diameter, is also drilled in the opposite end of the zinc, 5/8" from the
+end and 1/2" from the sides. This goes over the axle of the wheel.
+
+A hole is bored with a 1/4" bit, 2-3/8" from the end of the handle, as
+shown on Plate 48, and at an angle, as indicated.
+
+A similar hole is bored in the seat of the clown. The parts are now
+ready to sandpaper, paint, and after drying, assemble.
+
+[Illustration: Clown Running Wheel.]
+
+[Illustration: Cock Horse.]
+
+The color scheme is given on the drawing. After the paint has dried, the
+lines where the various colors join, should be accented with a pen,
+using India ink.
+
+The upper legs of the clown are attached to the body with 1-1/2" copper
+rivets and the lower legs are held to the upper by 1/2" rivets. When
+putting the rivets in place, hold the end which has the washer against
+some hard, metal body and strike with a hammer, taking care not to get
+the washer so tight that the legs will not move. A 3/4" No. 6 round-head
+screw holds the feet to the projecting dowel on the wheel. It is best to
+bore the hole for the screw in the piece of dowel a little smaller than
+the size of the screw so as to prevent splitting. Glue the supporting
+dowel in both the clown and the handle.
+
+
+
+
+COCK HORSE.
+
+
+The Cock Horse is a modern version of the old hobby horse, and affords
+the children, between the ages of four and six, unlimited pleasure.
+
+The head is made of a piece of 7/8" bass or pine, 5-1/2" wide and 9-1/2"
+long.
+
+The features may be enlarged from the size drawn in Plate 50, by the
+method given at the beginning of the book for enlarging; or, if one is
+apt at free-hand drawing, the outline may be copied offhand.
+
+Cut the features out right to the line with a coping saw and smooth the
+edges and surfaces with No. 1/2 sandpaper.
+
+The stick is made 7/8" x 1" x 32", and the front end is chamfered 1/8".
+
+Holes are bored for 1-1/2" No. 10 flat-head screws, the first 1-3/4"
+from the front end and the other two 1-1/2" apart.
+
+Two smaller pieces, which are made 5/8" x 7/8" x 7-1/2", are to hold the
+wheel in position. Holes are bored in these two pieces to take 1-1/4"
+No. 8 round-head screws, the first one being 7/8" from the end and the
+next two 3/4" apart.
+
+On this same end a piece is cut off at an angle, as shown.
+
+A hole is bored at the opposite end of these two pieces to receive a
+2-1/2" x 1/4" round-head stove bolt, on which the wheel turns.
+
+The wheel is made 7/8" thick and 6" in diameter, either on a lathe or
+with a coping saw. A hole is bored in the center a little larger than
+the 1/4" x 2-1/2" stove bolt, so that the wheel will turn easily upon
+it.
+
+Glue and screw the two side pieces to the long stick, using 1-1/4"
+round-head blue screws. Give these two coats of natural varnish.
+
+Paint the wheel two coats of bright red.
+
+Paint the head one coat of flat white, and after drying give one or two
+coats of white enamel. After this has dried thoroughly, paint the comb
+and wattles bright red. Paint the beak and outer circle of the eyes
+yellow, and the feathers about the neck black. Where the colors join,
+outline with a drafting pen and India ink.
+
+A hole is bored, in the head where shown, to receive a piece of 3/4"
+dowel, 6" long. This serves as a handle. Glue this handle in place,
+taking care that it projects equally on both sides.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 50._
+
+_COCK HORSE_]
+
+
+
+
+ROCKING ROOSTER.
+
+
+This very interesting action toy is especially suitable for children as
+young as two years of age. It is simple in construction and perfectly
+safe. (Plate 51.)
+
+The seat board is made 7/8" x 5" x 21". Measure 6" in from one end on
+both long edges, and at these points narrow the front end to 3-1/2" wide
+by sawing out a piece on both sides 1-1/4" wide.
+
+Round the corners where the taper comes, also the other four corners of
+the top. Similarly, round the upper edge of the top.
+
+The two rockers are made 7/8" x 4-1/2" x 18". Measure down 1/4" on the
+two ends, and from these points carefully sketch a free-hand curve with
+its highest point directly in the center of the lower edge. Be sure this
+curve balances equally and that the two rockers are exactly alike.
+
+The rooster's head is made 7/8" x 6" x 10-1/4" and the outline is
+sketched upon it similar to the one shown on the drawing.
+
+Cut out the features with a coping saw, taking pains to have the saw at
+right angles to the surface of the wood at all times.
+
+A hole is bored in the head, for the handle, about 3-3/4" from the top
+and 1-1/2" from the rear edge. A 3/4" bit is used.
+
+[Illustration: The Rocking Rooster is safe as well as interesting.]
+
+Be sure and bore this hole perfectly straight.
+
+The handle is made 6" long and 3/4" in diameter, shaping it as shown in
+the front view. If this cannot be turned on a lathe, the handle may be
+made from a 6" piece of 3/4" dowel, rounding the ends slightly with a
+file.
+
+Holes are now bored for the 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screws which hold the
+rockers and head to the top. The locations of these holes are clearly
+shown in the drawing. Countersink the holes on the side from which the
+screws enter.
+
+The little separating block, which goes between the rockers, is made
+7/8" x 1" x 2-1/2", and is held in place with glue.
+
+Sand all pieces thoroughly.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 51._
+
+_ROCKING ROOSTER_]
+
+Assemble all pieces carefully, seeing that the rooster's head is
+centered well and placed two inches from the front end.
+
+The rockers are attached 1-1/2" from the ends and so placed that they
+are just an inch apart.
+
+Paint the whole toy one coat of flat white and sand lightly with No. 0
+sandpaper when dry. Paint in the comb and wattles of the rooster bright
+red and the feathers on the neck, green.
+
+After these colors have dried, apply another coat of white, where
+indicated, this time using white enamel. Use a small brush for the
+details. The beak and the circle about the eye are painted yellow and
+the other circle about the eye is painted black.
+
+If the paint does not seem to have the proper sparkle when the last coat
+is dry, apply another coat of each color. Outline the edge of the comb
+and wattles with a drafting pen and India ink. Outline also, the beak
+and eyes. This causes a sharp contrast where the two colors meet and
+sets off the features.
+
+The top and rockers are treated with two coats of white enamel on top of
+the priming coat.
+
+
+
+
+KIDDIE KAR.
+
+
+It is hardly necessary to speak of the popularity of this toy. Its
+construction is well within the ability of the average eighth grade boy.
+
+The seat board (Plate 52) is made of 7/8" stock and is first cut 7-1/2"
+wide and 21-1/2" long. Half the outline of the curve at the front should
+be traced on a folded piece of paper, the proper size, and cut out and
+traced on the wood. This outline should now be carefully sawed and
+chiseled to the correct shape.
+
+[Illustration: Kiddie Kars.]
+
+The top edge of the seat should be rounded.
+
+The rear support should have half its outline traced on a folded piece
+of paper and cut out and traced on a piece of wood 7/8" x 5" x 6-1/2".
+Finish to the line.
+
+The brace is cut 7/8" x 5" x 9-1/2".
+
+Mark out the outline of the curves, as shown, and saw and chisel to the
+line. The wheels and steering gear should be turned on a lathe to the
+dimensions shown on the drawing.
+
+A hole is bored in the seat board, 1-3/4" from the front end and half
+way between the sides, with a 15/16" bit. This is to allow the steering
+post, which is turned to 7/8" diameter, freedom to turn.
+
+Holes are drilled through the under part of the rear brace, as shown, to
+secure the same to the top. Holes are likewise bored half way between
+the sides of this brace, to engage with the curved supporting piece.
+
+The curved supporting piece has two holes bored 1-1/4" from the small
+end, 1" apart. This is for the screws that go into the top.
+
+Holes, bored with a small bit, should be started in the lower part of
+the rear brace, to receive the large screws which hold the rear wheels
+in place. It is quite necessary to make these holes, using a bit a
+trifle smaller than the screw to be used, as it is very difficult to
+force a screw of this size into wood of this hardness. These holes must
+be bored exactly straight, otherwise the wheels will turn unevenly.
+
+Washers should be used between the screw heads and the wheels and
+between the wheels and any part they are likely to come in contact with.
+
+A hole is bored in the steering rod, directly below the top board, for a
+screw to be placed to hold the upper and lower part of the steering rod
+firm. Glue is also used when assembling the two parts of the steering
+apparatus. The handle is also held in place with a screw and glue, as
+shown. A hole is bored in the handle, of a size suitable to receive the
+steering rod.
+
+Washers should be placed in the steering gear, above and below the seat
+board, to prevent wear.
+
+In preparing the slot to receive the front wheel, a hole should first be
+bored with an inch bit so that the top edge of the slot comes 3-5/8"
+from the bottom of the steering gear.
+
+This slot should be very carefully sawed out and smoothed up so that the
+wheel, which is 7/8" thick, will turn accurately.
+
+The holes in all the wheels must center accurately and be larger than
+the screw or bolt which goes through them. The front wheel turns on a
+1/4" x 1-3/4" round-head stove bolt.
+
+The color scheme may be varied to suit individual tastes.
+
+The one suggested in the drawing has red wheels with the remaining parts
+of the kiddie kar finished natural with spar varnish.
+
+All parts should be thoroughly sanded before assembling. Two coats of
+paint should be applied to the wheels and two coats of varnish to the
+remainder.
+
+Sand in between coats with No. 0 sandpaper.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 52._
+
+_KIDDIE KAR_]
+
+
+
+
+KIDDIE KOASTER.
+
+
+This lively toy is somewhat different from the three-wheeled Kiddie Kar
+and is suited for children of eight or over.
+
+If desired, this toy may be made up with three wheels like a velocipede.
+
+If this type is made, a piece of dowel rod, of hard wood, is cut about
+six or eight inches long and an inch in diameter. This dowel should go
+through a hole in the rear brace, and the wheels should be attached to
+the ends with 2" No. 12 round-head screws and washers.
+
+The following directions are for the two-wheel Kiddie Koaster shown in
+Plate 53.
+
+The front supporting piece is first made of a piece of hard wood, 2" x
+2-1/4" x 19". A distance of 7" is measured up from the lower end and
+7/8" is measured beyond this. From this point the remainder of the brace
+is thinned to one inch in thickness. The top end is rounded and the
+bottom end chamfered, as shown.
+
+A hole is carefully bored with an inch bit, 5-3/4" from the lower end.
+An allowance of 1/2" is made for the thickness of each fork and the
+remaining inch is removed with a saw up to the hole previously bored.
+
+A hole is bored for the handle, 1-1/4" from the top, with a 7/8" bit.
+Another hole is bored on each side, 6-1/4" from the lower end with a
+3/4" bit, 1/2" deep.
+
+[Illustration: The Kiddie Koaster.]
+
+These two holes are for the foot rests. Small holes are bored one inch
+from the lower end to receive a 1/4" x 2-1/2" round-head stove bolt. A
+1/4" bit should be used to bore these.
+
+The rear support is made 2" x 2-1/4" x 16-3/4". From a point 6-1/2" from
+the lower end this is thinned down to one inch thick, the same way as
+the front support. At the upper end measure down on one edge 7/8" and
+draw to the opposite corner.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 53._
+
+_KIDDIE KOASTER_]
+
+Cut off at this angle so that it will come on a line with the cross
+piece. A hole is bored with a 1/4" bit, one inch from the lower end to
+take a 1/4" x 2-1/2" round-head stove bolt.
+
+Chamfer 3/8" from the lower end.
+
+Bore a hole 4-3/4" from the lower end with an inch bit and remove the
+wood to form the rear fork, in the same manner as was done for the
+front.
+
+The cross piece between the front and rear support, on which the seat
+rests, is first made 7/8" x 5" x 13-1/8".
+
+Measure in two inches from the upper corner and draw a line to the lower
+corner. Saw squarely on this line to get the proper slant. Measure from
+this upper left-hand corner 9-1/2" and draw a line from here to the
+lower right-hand corner. Saw to this line. On this last end sawed,
+measure in 3/4" and make a tenon, as indicated in the side view. This
+tenon should be 1/2" thick. The other dimensions for the tenon are given
+on the drawing.
+
+On the rear support a mortise is now cut of a size to receive the tenon
+tightly, and to make the top edge of the cross piece and upper end of
+the rear support on a line.
+
+This tenon should be cut with a 1/2" bit, boring so as to make the
+mortise about 13/16" deep. Remove the extra wood with a small chisel
+until the tenon fits snugly within the mortise.
+
+Later, when assembling, this joint is glued and 3/4" brads are driven in
+from the side to pin it in place, as indicated.
+
+The seat is made 3/4" x 5" x 7". It is shaped, as shown in the sketch,
+cutting the outline with a turning saw and finishing to the line with a
+chisel and file. Two holes are bored and countersunk to receive 1-1/4"
+No. 8 flat-head screws which hold the seat in place.
+
+The seat is stuffed with tow, excelsior or other suitable material and
+covered with brown burlap or with imitation leather, as desired. A piece
+of braid, to match the material used, is tacked around the lower edge
+with upholstery tacks to match.
+
+The handles and foot rests are best turned out on a lathe, although they
+may be whittled out with a jack-knife. The dimensions for these are
+clearly shown.
+
+The front wheel is 9-1/2" in diameter, made from wood 3/4" thick. The
+rear wheel is 8" in diameter, the wood being 3/4" stock.
+
+These wheels should be made of hard wood or wood glued up three-ply.
+These are best turned on a lathe, although they may be cut with a
+turning saw and chiseled to the line and finished with a file.
+
+A special hinge may be obtained from most any toy manufacturing firm,
+to place between the front support and the cross-piece. In the author's
+classes, hinges of this special type were obtained in various sizes,
+without any trouble. The size indicated in the drawing is five inches
+long and costs fourteen cents.
+
+If these special hinges are not used, the ordinary butt hinges may be
+substituted, two being used.
+
+A groove of the proper length and depth, to fit these hinges, can be
+drilled and chiseled out in the front brace. A saw cut can be made in
+the cross piece, across the end, in which to insert the hinge. When
+assembled, screws should be placed so as to accurately engage with the
+screw holes in the hinges.
+
+Before assembling, all pieces should be thoroughly sanded and painted
+two coats.
+
+A suggested color scheme is given on the drawing.
+
+
+
+
+SKI SKOOTER.
+
+
+The Ski Skooter, shown on Plate 54, is best made of ash.
+
+The runner is first made 5/8" x 3-3/8" x 39" and thinned down, for ten
+inches from the front end, to 3/8" thick.
+
+The runner is steamed, bent and grooved by the method shown in Plate 55.
+
+The upright piece is made 7/8" x 3-1/8" x 16-1/8" and one of the bracing
+pieces 7/8" x 1-3/8" x 12" and the other 7/8" x 1-3/8" x 13". These are
+cut at an angle of 45 degrees at each end, as shown.
+
+[Illustration: The Ski Skooter is great sport on a moderate hill.]
+
+The seat is made 7/8" x 6" x 12", and the top edges are slightly
+rounded.
+
+Two grips, which also have their lower edges rounded, are made 3/4" x
+7/8" x 5".
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 54._
+
+_SKI SKOOTER_]
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 55._
+
+_METHOD OF BENDING RUNNERS_]
+
+Two strengthening pieces are made 7/8" x 7/8" x 3-1/8" and their ends
+are cut at 45 degrees, as shown. These are attached to the upright
+directly under the seat.
+
+Bore all holes, where shown in the drawing, and countersink them.
+Assemble with glue and screws of a size shown on the drawing.
+
+The color scheme is given on the drawing, but may be changed to suit
+individual tastes. Two coats of paint are applied, sanding carefully
+between coats.
+
+The seat can be upholstered if desired.
+
+
+
+
+METHOD OF BENDING RUNNERS.
+
+
+Place the ends in a washboiler, about half full of boiling water, and
+allow them to remain about five hours.
+
+Place the tip, or front end of the runners, under the back edge of the
+top step of a step ladder. Slowly bend the runner downward until it lays
+flat on the front edges of the other steps.
+
+Secure this in place either with clamps or by pieces of rope and wood.
+Plate 55 shows two methods of bending the runners. Regular skis may be
+bent in the same manner.
+
+Leave the runners in the clamps overnight.
+
+
+
+
+SKI SKIPPERS.
+
+
+The Ski Skipper affords a lively form of winter amusement, and great
+speed can be obtained on the surface of the snow, especially when the
+crust is covered with a small amount of light snow.
+
+[Illustration: The Ski Skipper will please boys as well as girls.]
+
+The runners are best made of white ash, from half-inch material, 2-3/4"
+wide and 42" long. (Plate 56.)
+
+The front end of the runners is tapered, starting about five inches from
+the end. The extreme tips are blunt, being 1/2" wide.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 56._
+
+_SKI SKIPPER_]
+
+Starting about twelve inches from the front end, the runners are thinned
+down with a plane, on the upper surface, to 3/8" thick.
+
+Both runners have a groove cut along their counters from the rear end to
+the point where they curve upward.
+
+This groove is 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide, and may be cut by various
+methods. It may be cut with a grooving plane; it may be scored with a
+sharp-pointed gauge and the inner part removed with a chisel; or, if a
+power saw is available, it may be easily cut with a dado saw.
+
+The upper edge of the runners may be chamfered about 1/8" for a finish.
+When the foregoing operations are completed, the runners should be bent,
+using the method shown in Plate 55.
+
+The slats forming the seat top are now made 1/2" x 2-1/2" x 12", and the
+single slat for the foot rest 1/2" x 1-1/2" x 12".
+
+The seat slats have holes bored and countersunk 3/4" from the edges and
+1-1/4" from the ends, to receive 1" No. 8 flat-head screws. The foot
+slat has a similar hole bored 1-1/4" from the ends and centered between
+the edges.
+
+The seat supports are first cut 7/8" x 7-1/2" x 9-1/2" and then an inch
+is measured in on the top edge on each side and lines are drawn to the
+lower corners, as shown. Saw and plane to this line, making the taper as
+shown in the side view. The cross brace is made 7/8" x 3" x 9".
+
+The supports for the foot rests are first made 7/8" x 3" x 3-1/2". On
+the upper edge, which is 3-1/2" long, measure in 3/8" from each end and
+draw the sloping lines to the lower corners, making the taper, as
+indicated. Round these upper corners.
+
+Bore holes in the runners for attaching the uprights at places where
+they will engage with the uprights, at points shown on the drawing.
+There should be three screws in each large upright and two in the
+smaller front support. Assemble with glue and 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head
+screws at all places except where the cross slats are held. At these
+points 1" No. 8 flat-head screws will be long enough.
+
+It will be noticed, in examining the top and front views, that the
+supporting uprights are not placed directly half way between the edges
+of the skis, but are offset so that they come nearer the outside edge of
+the runner. This is done so that the screw will not come in the groove.
+
+Two blocks of wood to hold the screw eyes, to which the rope is
+attached, are made from 1/2" material, 1-1/2" square.
+
+Two holes are bored in these blocks, as shown, and they are attached
+eight inches from the front end of the runner with 3/4" No. 6 round-head
+screws. A screw eye is placed in each block, of a size sufficient to
+receive a 3/8" rope.
+
+It is best to bore the hole for the screw eye first, in order to prevent
+splitting the block.
+
+A suggested color scheme is shown in the drawing. Two coats of paint
+should be applied.
+
+
+
+
+DOLL SLEIGH.
+
+
+While this drawing (Plate 57), to all intents and purposes details a
+doll sleigh, yet by increasing the dimensions slightly the sleigh will
+be suitable for a small child.
+
+First, make the runners of 1/2" spruce, or other suitable wood, cutting
+them 9" wide by 26" long.
+
+On the upper edge measure back 1-1/2" and from this point draw to the
+corner of the lower edge. Saw to this line and slightly round the
+corners, as shown. With the dividers set at a radius of 4-1/2", strike a
+circle very lightly on the opposite end of the runners, so that it will
+be just tangent to the edges and end of the board. Measure up from the
+lower edge of the runner 7-1/2" and draw a line parallel to it until it
+strikes the circle. Cut to this line and also saw to the curve of the
+circle, forming the outline of the runner. Finish to the line with a
+chisel and file. See that the two runners are exact duplicates. Bevel
+slightly on the top edge to allow the runners to flare.
+
+[Illustration: The Doll Sleigh may be made larger to carry a baby
+brother or sister.]
+
+Next make the sleigh bottom 1/2" x 10" x 16-1/2". Two braces, to go
+below the sleigh bottom, are made 1/2" x 3" x 8-1/2".
+
+These braces are cut at an angle at each end, as shown. The angle is
+obtained by measuring in 3/8" on one edge and drawing to the opposite
+lower corner from this point and sawing to the line.
+
+The sides of the sleigh are made 1/2" x 8" x 22". On the top edge
+measure in 7-3/4" and place a dot. Measure down from the right-hand
+lower corner of the sides 4-1/2" and from this point, draw to the
+right-hand upper corner.
+
+From the left-hand lower corner measure in 1-3/4" and place a dot. From
+the same corner measure up on the left-hand edge six inches and make
+another dot. Connect these two dots to form the slope of the front end.
+From the last dot placed, square a line in from the left-hand edge
+1-3/4" long. From this point sketch a free-hand curve, as is shown in
+the side view of the sleigh (Plate 57) to the point first located on the
+upper edge. Cut to the outline, being sure both sides match.
+
+The front edge of the sleigh is made 1/2" x 6" x 11" and the rear end
+1/2" x 9" x 11-1/2". On the lower edge of the rear end measure in 1-5/8"
+from each corner and draw to the upper opposite corners. Saw and plane
+to these lines. This will give the taper of the rear end.
+
+Place the board from which the front is to be cut on the backboard and
+trace the slope of the sides and carefully finish to the line.
+
+The two handles are made 7/8" x 1-1/4" x 23-1/2", and the top piece, or
+grip, 1" x 1-1/4" x 19".
+
+The uprights are mortised into the grips 5/8", as shown on the drawing.
+
+Holes are bored in the center of the curve of the runners with a
+medium-size drill, and at these points an inch dowel is cut long enough
+to fit snugly between the runners, after the sleigh is assembled. The
+ends of the dowel are cut at a slope to conform to the pitch of the
+runners. This dowel is held with glue and 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head
+screws.
+
+Holes are bored, where indicated in the side view (Plate 57), to hold
+the brace in place. Holes are also bored in the handles to attach to the
+body of sleigh at places most convenient.
+
+Holes are bored in the sleigh bottom to attach the same to the cross
+braces, using 1" No. 6 flat-head screws. Use 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head
+screws on the outside of the runners. The handles are attached with
+3/16" x 1-1/2" round-head stove bolts. All other parts should be secured
+with glue and three-penny fine finish nails.
+
+If desired the bottom of the runners may be covered with 1/2" strap
+iron.
+
+Various finishes may be used after the parts are thoroughly sanded. If
+stain is to be the finish, apply it according to the directions in the
+front of the book and, after drying eight or ten hours, apply two coats
+of shellac. Sand between coats with No. 0 sandpaper. After the last coat
+of shellac is dry apply one coat of spar varnish.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 57._
+
+_DOLL'S SLEIGH_]
+
+If paint is to be used as the finishing material, decide on the color
+scheme and apply first a priming coat of flat white, after which one or
+two finish coats may be applied when dry, sanding lightly between each
+coat.
+
+
+
+
+CHILD'S TABLE.
+
+
+This is a very useful and practical problem and has been made up in
+large numbers by seventh and eighth grade boys.
+
+The chair shown in Plate 59 fits compactly under the table and takes up
+but little room.
+
+The top is joined by gluing several boards together and finishes 30" in
+diameter. Basswood, 7/8" thick, is very good material to use. The boards
+must be carefully jointed and held together with 1/2" dowels. Hot glue
+is the best to use, although the cold glue will answer. Leave the pieces
+in the clamps overnight. The top may be cut to shape with a turning saw
+and finished to the line with a sharp chisel and file.
+
+The four legs are 7/8" x 1-3/8" x 20-3/8". Two cleats, which are screwed
+to the underside of the table, are next made, these being 7/8" x 3" x
+24".
+
+These cross each other in the middle with a middle lap joint, as
+indicated at A, on the drawing. A notch is cut on the ends of these
+braces at C, as shown, to receive the legs.
+
+The legs are held in place with glue and 1-3/4" No. 10 round-head blue
+screws.
+
+[Illustration: Children's Table and Chairs.]
+
+The braces are attached to the top of the table with a sufficient number
+of 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws to insure a strong job.
+
+The legs are notched 3/8" deep, 7" up from the bottom, to receive the
+lower leg braces. See sketch B, Plate 58. These lower braces are 3/4" x
+1-3/8" x 23", joined at their center with a middle lap joint, the same
+as the top braces, and are held in the notch in the legs with glue and
+1-1/2" round-head screws.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 58._
+
+_CHILD'S TABLE_]
+
+All parts should be carefully sandpapered, first with No. 1 sandpaper
+and then finished with No. 0.
+
+The final finish is optional. It may be stained and varnished or it may
+be finished in enamel.
+
+If enamel is used there should first be a couple of coats of flat white
+applied, each coat being sanded when dry, with No. 0 sandpaper, and the
+final coat of enamel applied.
+
+Some appropriate design, in a grayed color, may be put on with stencil
+if desired.
+
+
+
+
+CHILD'S CHAIR.
+
+
+Plate 59 gives directions for making the chairs to match the table in
+Plate 58.
+
+The rear legs should first be cut out of 7/8" stock, 1-1/8" wide and 25"
+long. The two connecting rails are 1-1/8" x 9-5/8". The lower rail is
+notched into both front and rear legs, 6" from the lower ends, 3/8"
+deep.
+
+The upper rail, on which the seat rests, is notched in 3/8" deep, and 4"
+above the lower rail. The pieces so far completed may now be sanded and
+assembled, using glue and 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head screws.
+
+It is well to reinforce the joints by driving an eight-penny finish nail
+each side of the screws. These should be set below the surface, and the
+hole should be filled with hard beeswax before painting.
+
+While this is drying, the front and rear rails can be made.
+
+These rails, five in number, are all 7/8" x 1-1/8" x 8-1/4".
+
+The wide back rail is made of 1/2" material, 4-1/2" wide by 8-1/4" long.
+
+Holes should next be bored for the various screws, where indicated on
+the drawing.
+
+A cross cleat, which runs between the upper side rails and helps support
+the seat, is made 7/8" x 3" x 8-1/4". This is attached, as shown in the
+sketch of the joinery of the legs and rails, and is screwed to the under
+side of the seat with 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws.
+
+The seat is made 7/8" x 10" x 11-1/2" and is notched at the corners to
+receive the rear legs. The top is rounded slightly on its rear edges.
+
+Next assemble the two sides with glue and screws of proper size, as
+shown. All surfaces should be carefully sanded and the finish should be
+treated as described for the table.
+
+[Illustration: _Plate 59._
+
+_CHILD'S CHAIR_ (_To match table on preceding plate_)]
+
+
+
+
+  INDEX
+
+
+  Adapting the Problem to the Boy's Ability, 15
+
+
+  Bean Bag Game, 72-4
+
+  Bench Hook, 22-4
+
+
+  Camel, 38
+
+  Child's Cart, 93-5;
+    Chair, 130-1;
+    Dump Wagon, 95-9;
+    Snow Shovel, 46-7;
+    Step Ladder, 59-63;
+    Table, 128-30;
+    Wash Bench, 57-9;
+    Wheelbarrow (Type A), 99-103, (Type B), 102-5
+
+  Clown Running Wheel, 105-9
+
+  Cock Horse, 109-10
+
+  Colonial Doll's Chair, 66-7;
+    Cradle, 87-9;
+    Table, 64-6
+
+  Coping Saw Work, 26-7
+
+
+  Darts, 75-7
+
+  Dart Board Game, 74-6
+
+  Dippy Duck, 40-1
+
+  Doll's Bed, 89-91;
+    Clothes Rack, 55-7;
+    Cradle, 84-7;
+    Ironing Board (Size A), 49-51, (Size B), 51-3, (Size C), 53-5;
+    Sleigh, 125-8;
+    Table with Drawer, 62-4
+
+  Dowel Sticks, 27
+
+  Duck, 30
+
+
+  Elephant, 33
+
+  Equipment, 13-4
+
+
+  Finish and Color, 15-7
+
+  Five Post Ring Toss, 68-72
+
+
+  Goat, 36
+
+  Goose, 31
+
+
+  History of Toy-Making, 11-3
+
+
+  Kiddie Kar, 113-15;
+    Koaster, 116-19
+
+
+  Lamb, 35
+
+  Laying Out Work, 14
+
+
+  Merrimac, 44-5
+
+  Method of Bending Runners, 121-2;
+    of Enlarging Figures, 39-40;
+    of Jointing Wood, 18-20
+
+  Monitor, 42-3
+
+
+  Pelican, 29
+
+  Periscope, 47-8
+
+  Picture Puzzle Construction, 27-8
+
+
+  Rabbit, 34
+
+  Rhinoceros, 32
+
+  Ring-The-Hook Game, 68-9
+
+  Rocking Rooster, 111-13
+
+  Rooster, 37
+
+
+  Sand or Water Mill, 82-4
+
+  Simple Tool Sharpening, 24-6
+
+  Ski Skippers, 122-5
+
+  Ski Skooter, 119-22
+
+  Staining, 17-8
+
+  Support to be Held in Vise, 20-2;
+    for Holding Coping Saw Work, 20;
+    for Table Use, 22
+
+
+  Transferring a Design, 14-5
+
+  Two Types of Stilts, 91-3
+
+
+  Wind Mill, 77-80; (Type B) 80-2
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note.
+
+The equals sign has been used to show 'bold' in this etext.
+
+A few minor typographical errors were amended.
+
+"heighth" changed to "height".
+
+"Sonnenburg" changed to "Sonnenberg"
+
+Title of Plate illustrations were taken from drawings with inconsistent
+punctuation and this was systematised.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Toy Craft, by Leon H. Baxter
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TOY CRAFT ***
+
+***** This file should be named 44501.txt or 44501.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        http://www.gutenberg.org/4/4/5/0/44501/
+
+Produced by Chris Curnow, Paul Mitchell and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive)
+
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at
+  www.gutenberg.org/license.
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation information page at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at 809
+North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887.  Email
+contact links and up to date contact information can be found at the
+Foundation's web site and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations.
+To donate, please visit:  www.gutenberg.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For forty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
+
diff --git a/old/44501.zip b/old/44501.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..fa2da0c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/44501.zip