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diff --git a/old/44501.txt b/old/44501.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9c01194 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/44501.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4331 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Toy Craft, by Leon H. Baxter + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Toy Craft + +Author: Leon H. Baxter + +Release Date: December 24, 2013 [EBook #44501] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TOY CRAFT *** + + + + +Produced by Chris Curnow, Paul Mitchell and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive) + + + + + + + + + + TOY CRAFT + + + + + TOY CRAFT + + + LEON H. BAXTER + Director of Manual Training, Public Schools + ST. JOHNSBURY, VT. + + Author of Boy Bird House Architecture, and Elementary Concrete Construction + + [Illustration] + + THE BRUCE PUBLISHING COMPANY + MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN + + + Copyright 1922 + The Bruce Publishing Company + Printed in the United States of America + + + + +INTRODUCTORY NOTES + + +The purpose of such a book as Mr. Baxter's "Toy Craft" is to furnish +definite instructions for the making of toys for boys and girls by the +children themselves. Miniature furniture, wooden dolls, carts and +animals--of how much greater value is one such plaything actually put +together by a child than any number of toys made in a factory or +imported from some foreign country? Truly a step forward has been taken +in putting before the people a book which will unconsciously instill in +the minds of the children the value of the hand-made in preference to +the machine-made article. + +Not only is Mr. Baxter peculiarly fitted to publish such a volume as +"Toy Craft" in the light of his knowledge of manual training, but also +because of his understanding of the spirit behind the production of +toys, which bring such joy to the hearts of boys and girls. + +To the satisfaction of actually making some wooden cart, or bird, or +animal may be added the happiness of doing the work for some other +child. It is this vision of service for others which Mr. Baxter has +already caught and demonstrated, and we feel sure that this little +volume will do much to promote the improved individual construction of +toys by children, at the same time instilling into the hearts of the +boys the joy of making something for somebody else, of experiencing the +truth, "It is more blessed to give than to receive." + + MABEL E. TURNER, + Field Representative for Junior Service, + New England Division, American Red Cross. + + * * * * * + +One of the hard problems in manual training, for boys up to twelve years +of age, is to find worth-while things to make, within the capacity of +boys of this age. Having been engaged in this kind of work for over +twenty years I can appreciate the problems of the manual training +instructor in the grades. + +After carefully examining the cuts and directions for the various +projects as given in "Toy Craft," and having seen the boys at work, as +well as the completed articles, in Mr. Baxter's department, I can +readily see how the great interest that is inspired in the boys is +derived. + +I heartily commend this book to all manual training teachers as a great +help in the solution of their problems with boys. + + STANLEY J. STEWARD, M. E., + Director, St. Johnsbury Vocational School. + + + + +PREFACE + + +Each year American parents spend millions of dollars for toys for the +children. In a short time a large part of these toys are broken, and lie +in the corner or the back yard. This is because of the destructive +habits children have developed. These same habits have been formed +because, since birth, toys have cost these children nothing. + +Children, like grown-ups, value things and form habits in proportion to +the cost to them. They break up what costs them nothing, and cherish and +keep repaired what they, themselves, have made or purchased with +self-denial or self-earned money. + +The breaking of toys is bad, but the effect upon the character of the +child is infinitely worse. Destructive tendencies are developed, while +constructive ability is allowed to lie dormant and inactive. + +The remedy for this is to develop the constructive rather than the +destructive in children by buying them working outfits and books of +instruction with which they can make and repair things for themselves. +In other words, buy tools, equipment and supplies rather than finished +toys. Carlisle said, "Man without tools is nothing; man with tools is +all." Education is to children what civilization is to the race. + +What to buy for each particular child depends upon the age and +tendencies of the child and is a matter parents must determine for +themselves. The important test is, "Is it something that the child can +use to make things for himself, for others and for the home?" + +When purchasing tools it is an excellent plan to leave some part of the +outfit for the children to make or to buy from money they themselves +have earned. In other words, co-operate with the children instead of +doing it all for them. + +The writer speaks not only from the teacher's point of view, but from +the parent's as well. The problems offered in this book are not only +within the capabilities of the average child, but are all tested and +proven as being worth-while and appealing strongly to the child's ideals +and imagination. + + LEON H. BAXTER. + + St. Johnsbury, Vt. + + + + + TABLE OF CONTENTS + + + Page + + History of Toy-Making 11-3 + + Equipment 13-4 + + Laying Out Work 14 + + Transferring a Design 14-5 + + Adapting the Problem to the Boy's Ability 15 + + Finish and Color 15-7 + + Staining 17-8 + + Method of Jointing Wood 18-20 + + Supports for Holding Coping Saw Work 20 + + Support to be Held in Vise 20-2 + + Supports for Table Use 22 + + The Bench Hook 22-4 + + Simple Tool Sharpening 24-6 + + Coping Saw Work 26-7 + + Dowel Sticks 27 + + Picture Puzzle Construction 27-8 + + Pelican 29 + + Duck 30 + + Goose 31 + + Rhinoceros 32 + + Elephant 33 + + Rabbit 34 + + Lamb 35 + + Goat 36 + + Rooster 37 + + Camel 38 + + Method of Enlarging Figures 39-40 + + Dippy Duck 40-1 + + Monitor 42-3 + + Merrimac 44-5 + + Child's Snow Shovel 46-7 + + The Periscope 47-8 + + Doll's Ironing Board (Size A) 49-51 + + Doll's Ironing Board (Size B) 51-3 + + Doll's Ironing Board (Size C) 53-5 + + Doll's Clothes Rack 55-7 + + Child's Wash Bench 57-9 + + Child's Step Ladder 59-63 + + Doll's Table with Drawer 62-4 + + Colonial Doll's Table 64-6 + + Colonial Doll's Chair 66-7 + + Ring-The-Hook Game 68-9 + + Five Post Ring Toss 68-72 + + Bean Bag Game 72-4 + + Dart Board Game 74-6 + + Darts 75-7 + + Wind Mill 77-80 + + Wind Mill (Type B) 80-2 + + Sand or Water Mill 82-4 + + Doll's Cradle 84-7 + + Colonial Doll Cradle 87-9 + + Doll's Bed 89-91 + + Two Types of Stilts 91-3 + + Child's Cart 93-5 + + Child's Dump Wagon 95-9 + + Child's Wheelbarrow (Type A) 99-103 + + Child's Wheelbarrow (Type B) 102-5 + + Clown Running Wheel 105-9 + + Cock Horse 109-10 + + Rocking Rooster 111-13 + + Kiddie Kar 113-15 + + Kiddie Koaster 116-19 + + Ski Skooter 119-22 + + Method of Bending Runners 121-2 + + Ski Skippers 122-5 + + Doll Sleigh 125-8 + + Child's Table 128-30 + + Child's Chair 130-1 + +[Illustration: Girls Making Toys for a Red Cross Christmas Sale.] + +[Illustration: A Christmas Sale of Toys for the Red Cross.] + +[Illustration: Boy Toy Makers and Some of their Products.] + +[Illustration: Making Toys in the School Shop.] + + + + +TOY CRAFT + + + + +HISTORY OF TOY-MAKING. + + +To tell the history of toy-making from its earliest days it would be +necessary to follow the story back through many centuries, for the +archaeologists, in delving among the tombs of ancient Greece and Egypt, +have made the surprising discovery that children played with dolls, and +jointed dolls at that, more than five thousand years ago. + +Moreover, by the side of these dolls scientists have unearthed other +playthings that children still crave: doll's furniture, animal toys and +toys with wheels, illustrating the methods of transportation of those +early days. + +These same scientists claim that the custom of playing with dolls and +other toys is as old as the world itself and that playthings are, and +always have been, just as necessary a constituent of human health and +development as either food or medicine. + +They claim that the reason that boys and girls crave toys is that nature +requires them, and to deprive children of such playthings would be to +retard their mental growth and development. + +The Latin word =trochus= means a hoop for children. The hoops of Roman +children were made of bronze and iron and were rolled by a sort of a +crooked stick and sometimes had small bells attached. + +=Pupa=, the Latin word meaning "a little girl," applies to dolls which +were made from rags, wood, wax, ivory and terra cotta. When the Greek +girls of that time married they dedicated their dolls to Artemis; the +Roman girls, to Venus; but, if they died before marriage, their dolls +were buried with them. + +The Latin word =crepundia= meant children's playthings, such as rattles, +dolls, toy hatchets and swords. + +The toys made during the middle ages for the children of noble families +and rich merchants, show special care and fine workmanship. Many of them +were of a religious nature in the form of the Cross of the Crusaders, or +military in origin, like miniature knights on horseback. The toys of +this period were generally carved by goldsmiths. + +The American Indians and the Esquimaux made dolls from bits of skin and +fur of wild animals and gaily decorated them with shells, beads and +feathers. They also carved small models of animals and human beings from +wood and bone. + +The oldest European toy manufacturing center is Nuremberg, Germany. This +town is especially noted for its metal playthings, like the lead +soldiers, which were the delight of our childhood. Sonneburg, in +Germany, is the greatest European center for the manufacture of wooden +toys. + +Winchendon, Mass., is the greatest toy manufacturing center in the +United States, nearly every enterprise in that town being toy-making. + +In spite of the early origin of toys the progress of manufacturing +playthings has been so slow that, even as late as one hundred years ago, +the types of toys were few in number, simple in construction and +extremely expensive, especially in the United States. + +There was no systematic manufacture of such articles, and, as the cost +of importation was very high, comparatively few persons could afford +such means of amusement for their children. + +The children of those days accepted more primitive things, dolls that +were often merely pieces of cloth folded and pinned in such a manner as +to suggest the outline that was not there. + +A few other toys such as hoops, jumping-jacks, tenpins, marbles, +battledore-and-shuttlecock and alphabet blocks, represented the limit of +the toy-makers' stock. + +In America the toy-making industry is of quite recent origin. Before +1875 more than ninety per cent of the toys sold in this country were of +foreign manufacture, and those that were made here were never exported +to other countries. Today, however, about five per cent of the toys sold +here are made abroad and the rest are manufactured here in our own +country. Up to 1875 there was not a doll factory in the United States. + +Today, while we import some dainty toys from France, Germany and +Switzerland, nearly all the newest, unique and mechanical productions +are made in America. + +Simple toys are mostly made of wood and metal, and the same principles +employed by mechanical engineers, in duplicating parts of machinery, are +used in making duplicate parts of toys. + +When a design has been decided on, it is reduced to its most simple +element. Jigs are then made so that each piece will be an exact +duplicate of every similar piece, and the construction is pushed through +on the American factory system. + +Some toys are very elaborate, costing several hundred dollars. These +are readily purchased, however, by people of means. + +In the author's opinion the best kind of toys are those which suggest +rather than fulfill, and those with which the child can really do +something. Mechanical toys, which supply their own energy, should not be +allowed to take the place of those into which the child must infuse part +of his own life and energy. It follows naturally, then, that the toys +made by the children themselves are the ideal ones. + + + + +EQUIPMENT. + + +The following drawings vary in difficulty from those within the ability +of a nine or ten-year-old child to those which should not be attempted +by a child under junior high school age. Of course there are younger +boys, who possess especial ability in this line of work and who can +successfully carry through projects which the ordinary child of a like +age would fail to satisfactorily complete. Such boys are, however, the +exception. + + For the younger workman the following outfit is ample: + + One coping saw frame. + + One dozen saw blades. + + A sloyd knife or a pocket knife with a small stone to keep it sharp. + + Some No. 1 sandpaper, a small can of glue and some one inch brads. + + The whole outfit will cost about a dollar. + +A small plane is very convenient, but it is not absolutely necessary for +work for younger children. + +A board on which the sawing is done, to prevent marring the table, can +be made from a piece of boxwood 7/8" x 6" x 12". A hole should be bored +about three inches from one end and half way between the sides, and a +V-shaped notch should be cut from the end of the board to the hole. The +photograph on Page 20 shows the sawing board in use and illustrates two +methods of constructing and holding the board. See also Plate 2 for +method of making these boards. If a vise is available matters are very +much simplified. + +With the above described outfit, toy animals, toy furniture, +jumping-jacks and other simple toys of a like nature can be made. + +The material should be thin wood from the thickness of cigar box wood +(which by the way is especially good to use for some of the toys), up to +one-half inch in thickness. + +Composition board, such as Beaver Board and similar wall board, is very +good for the smaller toys but lacks strength and cannot be handled +roughly. + +Three-ply veneered wood may be obtained from firms which specialize in +veneer. It is strong and serviceable but a little more expensive than +the plain wood. + +Bass and pine are excellent woods to use in toy-making, as they work +very easily and are light in weight. + +For the older boy, who will no doubt be handy about the house, the +following tools are suggested: + + 1 Rip saw. + 1 Turning saw. + 1 Claw hammer. + 1 Screw driver. + 1 Half round file, No. 10. + 1 Ruler. + 1 Jack, or smooth, plane. + 1 Brace, set of bits and countersink. + A 1/2" and 1" chisels. + 1 Try square. + 1 Pair of 6" dividers. + 1 Knife. + +This outfit should cost about $25. Other tools may be added by the boy +himself as the necessity arises. + +If a bench is not available at first, a temporary one may be made from a +stout dry goods box and a more satisfactory one purchased later with +money earned by the boy by making things for others. + +Cheap tools are an expensive investment as they are never satisfactory. +A few tools of good quality should be purchased to start with, and +others should be added as necessity demands and funds permit. + + + + +LAYING OUT WORK. + + +For the young beginner it will be necessary to have patterns of animals +and other toys to trace around, before cutting out the forms. + +In the author's opinion originality should be always encouraged in a boy +when the original designs can be successfully worked out to completion +by the boy. + +With beginners, however, considerable tact must be used in leading them +on to work out original ideas through the medium of the sketching +pencil. Only very few have the ability to carry out an idea which they +may have, and if allowed to attempt it without a trial on paper the +resulting product is most always a failure. As stated before, the first +work should be tracings from well-designed patterns. These, then, can be +successfully worked out, and the result is satisfying to the mind of the +child and not a discouraging failure. + + + + +TRANSFERRING A DESIGN TO WOOD. + + +A design may be traced by placing a piece of transparent paper over the +desired drawing and outlining it with a pencil. The resulting tracing is +cut out, placed on a stiff piece of cardboard or fiber board, and +redrawn on this. The board is then cut carefully with scissors or a +sharp knife. This pattern may be used for a long time and other patterns +may be made from it in a similar manner. + +Another simple method is to place a piece of carbon paper beneath the +desired drawing, carbon side down, and to go over the lines of the +drawing with a medium-hard pencil. This transfer may be made directly +on the wood or on a piece of cardboard which is to be cut out and used +as a pattern. For cut-up picture puzzles the picture is pasted directly +on the wood and, after drying, is cut at random. See Plate 5. + + + + +ADAPTING THE PROBLEM TO THE BOY'S ABILITY. + + +As the child's efficiency increases and he leaves the simpler toy forms +for others of increasing difficulty, he should be encouraged to read the +working drawings of the article which he intends to make. Show him how +to discover from the drawing the lengths, widths, thicknesses of the +pieces to be made and, after carefully checking him up, let him work out +his own salvation for a while. In other words, do not do it all for him. +Let the result be at least 90 per cent the boy's own work. Be ready, +however, to assist at the right moment and never turn a deaf ear to the +persistent question, "Why"? + +By following this logical method of procedure in teaching, the writer +has found that the young craftsman is ready a great deal earlier to work +out original ideas and designs to a practical and successful conclusion. + + + + +FINISH AND COLOR. + + +After all cutting with edged tools has been completed, all pieces should +be carefully sanded to insure the removal of all scars, pencil lines and +other imperfections. + +Sandpaper should be used on a small block. Care should be taken that no +paper hangs over the block, thus rounding the edges of the work being +finished. + +In sanding over a first coat of shellac or paint a block is not used, +but the sandpaper is folded two or three times and used under the finger +tips. Care must be taken especially not to wear through the finish on +the edges. + +Paint is difficult and unsatisfactory for younger children to use. +Colors handled by beginners will run together and will be "dauby" in +appearance and a detriment rather than a finish to a toy. Added to this +is the likelihood of a generous application on the painter's hands and +clothing. + +The writer has had excellent results in using the ordinary colored wax +crayons on toys. Crayon is easy to apply, has a pleasing color tone, is +clean and very satisfactory for the beginner. After all of a toy has +been colored a fairly heavy line may be drawn free-hand, at the point of +contact of the colors, with an ordinary drafting pen and India ink. +Pains should be taken to see that the ink is dry in one place before +applying in another. If the crayon has been put on with pressure and +uniformly deposited over the surface the ink will "take" without +spreading and the result is a clean-cut finished appearance. + +For more advanced workers the toys should be painted with either +commercial or enamel paints, which are available on the market in all +colors, or with colors mixed by the boy himself. If the boy mixes his +own colors much of the mystery of the ready-mixed paints is done away +with. + +By adding to white enamel a small amount of a selected color, ground in +oil, various tones of the color may be obtained. + +In painting any object a first or priming coat is applied. Flat white is +an excellent all-round primer. After the priming coat has dried +thoroughly on a toy, it should be sanded lightly to remove any rough +places with No. 0 sandpaper and dusted. Then the final coat should be +applied. + +Gray is also very good for the first coat except where a white or very +light colored paints are to be used for the finished coat. + +When painting small toys or parts of larger toys it is economy to have a +string or wire stretched between two hooks six or seven feet from the +floor, on which to hang the painted article. + +[Illustration: Careful painting is as essential to the success of a toy +as good construction.] + +Drive an inch brad into some part of the toy that will not be seen, such +as the lower edge of the animal toys, and attach a short length of +string or wire to this and hang up as before described. This nail will +be handy to hold the toy by while painting and when hung up is out of +the way, is not touching anything to cause marks on the paint, and is +high enough up to be where the temperature of the room will assist in +the drying process. Remove this nail after the toy is dry. If possible +toys should dry in a special room where it is quiet, with no dust +stirring or drafts blowing, and where the temperature is fairly uniform, +not falling below 60 degrees. + +Paint should be applied with the tip of the brush, holding the brush +nearly vertical, using a uniform stroke and taking care to prevent +"tears" or surplus paint running over an edge. The brush should be in +proportion to the size of the article painted, and the strokes should be +outward toward the edges rather than from the edges inward. + +Features and fine lines on the toys may be placed with No. 3 round sable +brush or with India ink in an ordinary drafting pen. The latter method +of outlining and drawing in features has proved most successful with the +writer's classes, as the solidity of the pen allows a firm pressure on +the surface of the work and insures a uniform line. Fine or coarse lines +may be made by adjusting the pen to suit the desired need. + +Considerable skill is needed to satisfactorily place lines with a fine +pointed brush held in the hands of an inexperienced boy, and the +drafting-pen method simplifies the problem immensely. + +Adjoining colors, outlined by this method, improve the appearance of the +toy fifty per cent. + +Dull colors may be "livened up" by applying a coat of white shellac or +varnish. + +Toys having parts of various colors, such as carts, etc., should have +the different parts painted before assembling. + + + + +STAINING. + + +Before attempting to stain a toy, the wood should be carefully examined +to see that all scars, glue or scratches have been removed. This is very +important as the stain will show up all imperfections in the wood very +plainly. Enough stain should be poured in a shallow cup for the piece of +work at hand and should then be applied with a brush with the grain of +the wood in long narrow bands from one end of the work to the other. The +stain should be wiped with a piece of waste or cloth soon after being +applied, removing all surplus stain and thus bringing out the grain of +the wood. + +Pains must be taken when staining the edges not to allow the stain to +run over on the adjacent surface. If it does the stain should be quickly +wiped off with a piece of waste before it causes the surface to be +unevenly stained. + +There will probably be no necessity in toy construction to use filler on +the wood so the method of applying this will be omitted. + +Next apply a coat of white shellac (reduced by one part of alcohol to +three parts of shellac), brushing it on quickly with the grain of the +wood. + +Do not have too much shellac on the brush. If laps or runs show, work +them out with the brush. + +After the shellac has dried eight or ten hours it should be rubbed +lightly with No. 0 sandpaper. Be careful not to sand through the +shellac, particularly on the edges. A second coat may be applied if +desired. + +For the last coat apply a coat of either hard or liquid wax, the latter +being preferable. + +Shake the can or jar before applying liquid wax. Apply evenly with a +soft cloth and allow it to dry for an hour. Rub down to the proper +luster with a soft clean cloth. Two or more coats of wax may be applied +if desired. + + + + +METHOD OF JOINTING WOOD. + + +If, on account of width, certain pieces of work cannot be obtained from +material at hand, two pieces may have to be joined together. + +One edge of each piece to be joined should be carefully planed square +and straight. Keep trying the two edges together until a satisfactory +joint is obtained, one so satisfactory that when the edges are placed +together no joint line is visible. When such a joint is obtained we are +ready to take the next step--to locate holes for dowels. + +This method is shown in Plate 1, Fig. A. Here the two pieces are placed +face to face and lines are squared across the two edges, planning +enough space to insure a strong job. Two or three dowels are usually +sufficient. Locate the centers of all these lines so that the spur of +the bit will come equidistant from each edge, as shown. + +Bore the holes at least twice as deep as the wood is thick. Thus for +half inch stock the holes should be at least an inch deep. + +For half inch and three-eighths inch wood the hole should be bored with +a quarter inch bit, for wood three-quarter inch to one inch thick a half +inch bit should be used. + +Take extreme care in boring the holes to see that the bit is at right +angles to the edge of the wood, otherwise difficulties will arise when +we come to put the work together. + +After all holes are bored, the round sticks called dowels should be cut, +one-eighth inch shorter than the combined depths of the two holes. This +allowance is made so that glue may work under the ends of the dowels and +also that the dowels may not be too long and thus prevent the edges of +the joint from coming together. + +Apply glue to the dowels and insert them in the holes and spread glue on +both of the edges, as shown in Fig. B, Plate 1. + +[Illustration: _Plate 1._ + +_METHOD OF JOINTING WOOD_] + +Place the work in clamps, if available, protecting the edges of the wood +from the iron of the clamps with small pieces or blocks of soft wood. + +Fig. C shows the clamps in position. If no clamps are at hand a +makeshift clamp may be made, as shown in Fig. D. In using this clamping +arrangement a strong piece of wood should be nailed to the floor, where +such nailing will do no harm, driving the nails only about +three-quarters of the way in. Place the wood to be clamped against this +and nail two wedge shaped pieces about an inch and a half away, as +shown. Prepare other pieces, also of wedge shape, of a proper size to +drive into place, as indicated. + +By a careful study of Fig. D the important features of such a method of +clamping will be understood. + +The cold glue that comes in cans ready for use will be found most +convenient for the beginner to use. The clamps should remain on the work +overnight, and when removed the two surfaces of the wood must be cleaned +of all glue and planed. + + + + +SUPPORTS FOR HOLDING COPING SAW WORK. + + +In Plate 2 are shown two devices for holding work while using the coping +saw. Fig. A is a type of support suitable for use in a vise and is of a +height that will enable the workman to stand while sawing. Fig. B is +lower, and the sawing is done while sitting in a chair. This type is +designed for use where there is no vise and is held secure by a clamp, +as is shown in the sketch. + +[Illustration: Boys using correctly the Supports for Coping Saw Work +detailed in Plate 2.] + + + + +SUPPORT TO BE HELD IN VISE. + + +In making this support the following method should be followed: + +The back piece is first made 7/8" x 6-3/4" x 20". The top is made 7/8" x +6-3/4 x 12" and the brace 7/8" x 3" x 8-1/2". This brace tapers to a +point at the lower end. Two small cleats are 7/8" x 1-1/4" x 6-3/4" and +are attached to the upright piece 1-7/8" up from the bottom edge. This +allows the support to set firmly in the vise. Measure in from one end of +the top piece 5" and have this point come half way between the sides. At +this point a hole is carefully bored with a 3/4" bit. On this same end +measure in from each edge 2-1/4". From these points draw lines tangent +to the edges of the circle, as shown. Cut out this V-shaped notch. + +[Illustration: _Plate 2._ + +_SUPPORTS FOR HOLDING COPING SAW WORK_] + +Bore all holes shown on the drawing with a bit that will allow using +1-1/4" or 1-1/2". No. 8 flat-head screws. Have all surfaces sanded +smoothly and assemble with glue and screws. + + + + +SUPPORT FOR TABLE USE. + + +For the support shown in Fig. B, Plate 2, we make the upright 7/8" x +6-3/4" x 8-7/8". The top is cut 7/8" x 6-3/4" x 12" and the base 7/8" x +5" x 6-3/4" and the upright brace 7/8" x 3" x 8". The top has the same +V-shaped notch cut in it as the other form of support. Bore all +necessary holes, sandpaper and assemble. The clamp shown in the sketch +answers the purpose very nicely and may be purchased for a small sum at +any hardware store. + + + + +THE BENCH HOOK. + + +The bench hook is a very useful article to have about the work bench. It +is made of hard wood, preferably maple. The drawing is shown in Plate +3. The main piece is made 7/8" x 6" x 12". Two cross cleats are made, +one being 7/8" x 1-1/2" x 6" and the other 7/8" x 1-1/2" x 5". Holes are +bored and countersunk at the places shown in the drawing. Great care +must be taken in cutting these three pieces of wood to see that every +edge is square and true. One of the cleats is attached on one side of +the board even with the end, while the other is placed on the other side +on the opposite end. These are held in place with glue and 1-1/4" No. 8 +flat-head screws. By referring to the drawing and the sketch the idea +may be readily seen. It will be noticed that the short cleat has its end +even with the left-hand edge, thus leaving a space of an inch at the +right. When used with this side up it is for the purpose of sawing off +small pieces of wood with the back saw, and when used with the other +side up, on which the long cleat is attached, it is for the purpose of +planing the end of a piece of wood across the grain. + +[Illustration: _Plate 3._ + +_THE BENCH HOOK_] + +If a piece of wood is set up in a vise for end planing and the planing +is done across the grain, the fibers on the further edge have no support +but break away, as shown in Fig. C, Plate 3. In using the bench-hook the +wood lies flat on the board and fits tight against the long cleat, and +the plane is laid flat on its side and pushed back and forth. (Plate 3, +Fig. A.) It can be readily seen that supported as it now is, the piece +of wood being planed will not splinter or break on its further edge. +Pains must be taken, however, to keep the plane flat on its side, not +raising it on its edge at all, for by so doing the resulting planed edge +will not be square. This bench-hook may be made quite easily by the +beginner and besides being a good problem, is a very helpful addition to +the tool outfit. It works very well when planing wood not over six or +seven inches wide. Wood wider than this should be planed as follows: +Place the piece of wood upright in the vise with the end grain +uppermost, and plane about three-quarters of the way across the edge. +Then turn the piece and plane the remaining part back in the opposite +direction. By so doing the end of the wood will not be split. + +Figures A and B, Plate 3, show the operation of the bench-hook for both +sawing and planing. + + + + +SIMPLE TOOL SHARPENING. + + +In order to do good, clean-cut, accurate work it is very necessary that +all cutting tools be kept sharp. And it is important that every boy who +undertakes toy making have an elementary knowledge of the subject, +especially an understanding of how to properly sharpen the knife, the +chisel and the plane blade. + +If the tool is very dull, with nicks in the cutting edge, it should be +ground first on the grindstone. It is quite important that the blade be +held at the proper angle, about 25 degrees on the stone. A suitable tool +holder, such as is shown in the illustration on Page 26, is a very +useful article to have in the tool equipment. The tool is held in place, +bevel side down, by thumbscrews, and projects beyond the holder a little +over half an inch. + +The grindstone should be thoroughly wet to prevent heating the tool and +also to insure the washing away of the fine particles of steel from the +surface of the stone. + +The round shape of the stone causes the bevel of the tool to be concave +if held steadily in one position, as shown in Fig. A, Plate 4. Fig. B +shows the incorrect result if the blade is not held evenly on the stone. +It can be readily seen that the latter result will not make a very sharp +cutting edge. + +Care should be taken when grinding not to round the corners of the tool. + +The theory of the cutting edge of the tool is the same as that of the +wedge; the thinner the wedge the easier it is to drive it. However, the +wedge, as well as the tool, must be thick enough to stand the strain of +being driven into the wood, or the material which is to be split or cut. +Too long and thin a bevel, while sharp at first, soon loses its edge +through usage, while too blunt an edge makes the tool unsatisfactory to +work with. + +[Illustration: _Plate 4._ + +_SIMPLE TOOL SHARPENING_] + +The grindstone leaves the tool edge rough, or with a wire edge, as it is +called. This roughness is removed on the oil stone. One or two drops of +thin stone oil should be placed on the stone and the tool placed bevel +side flat on the surface of the stone. Work with a circular motion, +bearing on the tool with uniform pressure. Turn the blade over, bevel +side up, seeing that the blade lies perfectly flat on the stone. Work +with a similar motion. Repeat these operations until the blade is as +sharp as desired. Wipe the oil from the tool and test by drawing the +blade lightly across the thumb. If the blade clings to the skin it will +be found sharp enough. + +Fig. C, on Plate 4, shows the correct and incorrect methods of +oil-stoning the tool blade. Always wipe the stone dry after using, as +the oil will dry and gum up the grinding surface if not kept clean. + +Tool grinding is an important and rather difficult operation at first +and skill comes only with continued practice. + +In sharpening a knife-blade on an oilstone care should be taken to keep +the blade nearly flat on the stone in order to get a thin, sharp edge. +The knife should be sharpened first on one side and then on the other, +until the desired edge is obtained. + +Fig. D, Plate 4, shows the right and wrong methods of holding the knife +blade on the stone. Figures E and F show the results of careless +sharpening. Fig. G is sharpened correctly. + +[Illustration: Grinding Tool on Grindstone using Tool Holder.] + + + + +COPING SAW WORK. + + +The following plates of birds and animals (Plates 6 to 17) are +especially interesting to the beginner and are excellent for the novice +to prove and improve his skill with the coping saw. + +Wood from 1/4" to 1/2" in thickness is best for this type of toy, 3/8" +being a good medium thickness to use. Pulp board, such as Beaver board, +is also very good, as there is no grain and, therefore, little liability +of splitting. Pulp board saws very easily and takes paint nicely. + +All of these toys are mounted on a wood base, made of 1/2" wood, of a +size shown on the various drawings. The animal is attached to the base +with glue and 1-1/4" brads. + +Wheels can be made from a round stick (called a dowel) an inch in +diameter by carefully sawing off pieces 3/8" thick. + +Holes are bored at the middle point of these wheels large enough to +allow them to turn easily on a 1" No. 6 round-head blue screw. Washers +should be placed on the screws on both sides of the wheels. + +Plate 6 gives a general idea of the toy base. + + + + +DOWEL STICKS. + + +Dowel sticks are very useful to the toy maker and an assortment of +various sizes should be kept on hand. They are very handy in many ways +in toy making and furniture construction. They come in sizes from 1/4" +to 1" in diameter or larger, in 30" lengths, and cost from two to three +cents apiece. + +Dowel sticks are usually carried in stock by local hardware men or may +be obtained from manufacturers of mill work. + + + + +PICTURE PUZZLE CONSTRUCTION. + + +The problem illustrated in Plate 5 is very interesting and especially +good for the beginner. + +First, select a picture of the size desired from a calendar or discarded +magazine. Colored pictures are the best. + +Prepare a piece of 1/4" soft wood, such as bass or pine, and glue the +picture to the surface, rolling and pressing out air bubbles and +smoothing away all wrinkles. Place a weight on the picture and allow it +to dry overnight. + +Holding the coping saw so that the blade is straight up and down, or in +other words, at right angles with the surface of the work, saw out +irregular shaped pieces similar to those shown in the accompanying +drawing. + +If these pieces are placed in a neat Christmas box, such as may be +purchased at the five-and-ten-cent store, it will make a very pleasing +Christmas gift. + +[Illustration: _Plate 5._ + +_PICTURE PUZZLE CONSTRUCTION_] + +[Illustration: _Plate 6._ + +_PELICAN_] + +[Illustration: _Plate 7._ + +_DUCK_] + +[Illustration: _Plate 8._ + +_GOOSE_] + +[Illustration: _Plate 9._ + +_RHINOCEROS_] + +[Illustration: _Plate 10._ + +_ELEPHANT_] + +[Illustration: _Plate 11._ + +_RABBIT_] + +[Illustration: _Plate 12._ + +_LAMB_] + +[Illustration: _Plate 13._ + +_GOAT_] + +[Illustration: _Plate 14._ + +_ROOSTER_] + +[Illustration: _Plate 15._ + +_CAMEL_] + +[Illustration: _Plate 16._ + +_METHOD OF ENLARGING FIGURES_] + + + + +METHOD OF ENLARGING FIGURES. + + +If a figure shown in a book or in any picture is to be enlarged the +following method is very simple: + +Enclose the figure in a rectangle and divide it in quarter inch squares, +like the drawing of the duck in Plate 16. + +If the drawing is to be enlarged twice the original size, draw a +rectangle on a piece of paper or cardboard twice as large as the +picture. Divide it into exactly the same number of squares, which will +now be twice as large as before, or one-half inch on a side. Letter and +number all parts to agree. + +Start now and sketch the enlarged figure, having the lines pass through +the same places in the squares of the large rectangle as in the small. + +With a little patience it will be surprising how accurate a copy can be +made. + +A picture may be reduced by the same method. + + + + +DIPPY DUCK. + + +This toy is larger than the regular cut-out figure and has added action +by the placing of the inner piece off-center on the larger wheel, thus +causing the duck to move up and down as the toy is pulled along on the +floor. + +As shown in the drawing (Plate 17), the base is made of four separate +pieces, because it is easier to construct it this way than to cut out +the slot from a solid piece. The wood used is 7/8" pine, the two long +pieces being 1-1/2" wide by 15" long and the two end pieces 1-1/4" wide +by 2-1/2" long. These are glued and chamfered. A small chamfer is planed +around the top edge, as shown. + +The small base piece on which the duck rests is made 7/8" x 1" x 7-1/2". +A hole is bored 2" from one end with a 1/2" bit and the slot is sawed +out. The opposite end is rounded. + +A hole is bored in the end where the slot is cut 3/8" from the end, of a +size that will take a piece of 16-penny nail tightly. The nail is cut +one inch long and serves as an axle for the large wheel. A similar hole +is bored, 3/8" from the other end, with a larger drill so that the nail +used at this point will be smaller than the hole, allowing the base +piece to move easily upon it. + +The large wheel is made by cutting a piece from a curtain rod 2-1/4" in +diameter or by turning down a piece to this diameter on the lathe. This +wheel is cut 3/8" thick. The four main wheels are 1-3/4" in diameter and +3/8" thick. These wheels have a small hole bored exactly in their +center, of a size large enough to allow a shingle, or a screw, nail to +turn easily within. + +The wheels are attached two inches from the ends and the nails are +driven in straight so as to insure the wheels turning evenly. A screw +eye is placed at the front end, as shown, to which is attached a string +to pull it by. + +[Illustration: _Plate 17._ + +_DIPPY DUCK_] + +All parts should be nicely sanded before assembling and then given two +coats of paint. A suggested color scheme is given on the drawing. + +[Illustration: _Plate 18._ + +_MONITOR_ (_revolving turret_)] + + + + +THE MONITOR. + + +This design is what might be called an amphibious toy, which means one +that is at home both on the land and water. + +The base, or hull, is made from a piece of 1/2" board, 5-1/4" wide and +14" long. At a point on the long edges, 4-1/2" from the ends, a center +is taken with a compass, or pair of dividers, set at 5-1/4" radius, as +shown in the drawing. Strike all of these curves and cut to the line +with a coping saw and finish smooth. + +The main turret and the two smaller blocks are either turned on a lathe +or cut from a cylindrical piece of wood. If care is used the pieces can +also be cut with a turning saw from a piece of wood of the required +thickness. The two smaller pieces are cut from a piece of 7/8" board and +are 1-3/4" in diameter and are attached with 1" brads and glue, 1-3/4" +from each end. + +For the main turret, which is to be movable, a hole is bored in the hull +exactly in the middle. In boring, a bit a little larger than the size of +a 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screw is used, in order that the screw shank +will move easily. This hole is countersunk on the under side. A smaller +hole is started on the under side of the turret to receive the screw +and, when the pieces are assembled, the screw is not screwed up tight, +but enough play is left so that the turret will revolve fairly easily. + +[Illustration: The Monitor and the Merrimac and Animal Toys.] + +The two "guns" may be cut from 5/8" dowels, 2-3/8" long, or may be +turned on a lathe. Two holes are bored, on opposite sides of the turret, +3/8" deep, to receive the guns which are glued in. + +The two pieces to which the wheels are attached are made 1/2" x 3/4" x +4", and are secured in place 4" from bow and stern with shingle nails +and glue. + +[Illustration: _Plate 19._ + +_MERRIMAC_] + +The four wheels are cut from 1" dowels, 7/8" thick. + +A hole is bored exactly in the middle of each wheel a little larger than +the wire of a shingle nail, which is used to hold them in place on the +base. + +A small piece of 1/4" dowel about 2-1/4" long, is inserted in a hole, +bored with a 1/4" bit, 3/4" from the bow. This is the flagstaff, and +just in front of this is placed a small screw eye to attach the string +for pulling the toy. Give the entire toy two coats of black paint. + + + + +THE MERRIMAC. + + +The Confederate Ironclad is a little harder to make than the Monitor, +but it is well within the ability of a sixth grade boy. + +The hull is made 1/2" x 5-1/4" x 14", and is sawed to a point at the bow +and stern, sloping from the center point of both ends to points 3-1/4" +from either end. + +The upper works are made from a block of wood 1-3/4" thick, 4-1/2" wide +and 7-1/2" long. This is beveled so that the top is 3-1/4" x 6-1/4". + +The two smokestacks are made from pieces of 3/4" dowel, cut 3-1/4" long +and inserted in holes bored 1/2" deep, 1" from the sides of the upper +deck and 3-1/8" from the ends. These are held in place with glue. + +The flagstaff is cut from a piece of 1/4" dowel, 2-3/8" long, inserted +in a hole, bored with a 1/4" bit, 3/4" from the bow. + +Just in front of this, 1/4" from the end, is placed a small screw-eye to +which a string may be attached. + +The ten "guns" are made from 1/2" dowels, cut 1" long, and at an angle +so that the lower side is 7/8" long. This is so that they will fit +against the sloping sides of the turret. + +A hole is bored from end to end of each gun, in their centers, so that a +1-1/2" finish nail will fit in nicely. + +The guns are held in place with these nails and with glue at the points +indicated on the drawing. + +The upper works and hull are held together with 1" brads and glue, in +such a manner that the gun turret is equally distant from the ends and +sides of the hull. + +The pieces which hold the wheels are made 1/2" x 3/4" x 4" and are +nailed and glued in place, 3-1/2" from bow and stern. + +The wheels are 3/8" thick, cut from 1" dowels, and are held by shingle +nails driven into the axle in such a way that they will turn freely. + +The holes for the nails, in the wheels, are bored exactly in their +centers with a bit a little larger than the nail to be used. + +After sanding and assembling give the boat two coats of black or battle +ship gray paint. + +[Illustration: _Plate 20._ + +_CHILD'S SNOW SHOVEL_] + + + + +CHILD'S SNOW SHOVEL. + + +This problem is simple and of interest to young people during early +winter. (Plate 20.) + +The handle may be made square in section first and then gradually +rounded with a plane and then filed and sanded; or a discarded handle +from some other implement may be utilized. The handle should be 28" +long, and a hole should be bored and a rivet inserted 11-5/8" from one +end. This is to reinforce the handle where the saw cut comes. This cut +is made directly along the center of the handle and stops 11" from the +end. If this cut is not made exactly in the center, the spreading, when +the grip is inserted, will be unequal, and the shovel will not be in +balance. + +The two ends of the shovel are rounded, as indicated, and the lower end +is cut at an angle to fit the surface of the shovel. + +The grip should be cut from a 1" dowel and then cut to fit the angle +formed by the spreading sides of the shovel. + +This is held in place by 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screws with washers, as +indicated. + +The broad part of the shovel is cut from one piece, if possible, 1/2" x +8" x 10-1/2", and the front end cut an angle which is reinforced with a +piece of zinc, 3-1/4" x 8", bent over and held by rivets and washers, as +shown. + +The brace under the handle is cut 3/4" x 1-5/8" x 8" and then planed +from an upper edge to within an inch of the opposite lower edge and +secured in place with screws. The handle is attached to the blade with +rivets and washers, as shown on the drawing. + + + + +THE PERISCOPE. + + +This is an interesting problem and demonstrates a scientific principle. + +For a periscope of the size shown in the drawing (Plate 21), two pieces +of looking glass must be first cut 2-1/4" x 2-7/8". + +Pieces A are cut 3/8" x 2" x 4-1/4"; pieces B are 3/8" x 2-3/4" x +4-1/4"; pieces C, 3/8" x 1-7/8" x 2-3/4"; pieces D, 3/8" x 2" x 17-1/4"; +pieces E, 3/8" x 2-3/4" x 18-7/8"; and pieces F, 3/8" x 2-3/4" x +18-7/8". + +Two grooves 1/8" deep, and of a width to receive the thickness of the +glass used, should be cut at an angle of 45 degrees, where indicated on +the drawing. This groove is cut in pieces A only. + +All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1 sandpaper and finished +with No. 0. Assemble, as shown on the drawing, using glue and 1" brads. + +The final finish may be stain or paint. Whatever finish is used should +be of a dark color as best suited for a periscope. + +[Illustration: _Plate 21._ + +_PERISCOPE_] + +[Illustration: The Periscope in Use.] + + + + +DOLL'S IRONING BOARD. + +(Size A.) + + +This problem has proven very popular in toy-making classes and has been +one of the best sellers at toy sales. It folds up compactly and is +strong and serviceable. + +Plates 22, 23 and 24 show the ironing board in three sizes for children +of varying ages. + +Plate 22 is for children of about three years of age, and the material +is prepared as follows: + +The top is first made of 1/2" lumber and is 6" wide and 20" long. Set +the dividers with a 3" radius and strike an arc just touching the end +and two sides of the board. Do the same on the other end, using a 2-1/2" +radius. + +[Illustration: The Three Types of Ironing Boards.] + +Connect these arcs with straight lines and saw and plane carefully just +to the lines all around. The turning saw may be used on the ends. + +[Illustration: _Plate 22._ + +_DOLL'S IRONING BOARD_ (_Size A_)] + +Slightly round the upper edge of the surface which is to be uppermost. + +The legs are next cut to size, the two longer ones being 1/2" x 1" x 19" +and the two shorter ones 1/2" x 1" x 18-3/4". + +One end of each is rounded by striking an arc with a 1-1/2" radius, at +the extreme end. The other ends of the legs are cut off at an angle, as +shown in the drawing. + +Holes are bored in the rounded ends of the long legs, 1/2" from the ends +with a No. 3 bit. Another hole of similar size is bored 8-1/4" from the +one previously bored. These holes are all 1/2" from the edges. + +On the short legs the only holes necessary are bored 8-1/4" from the +rounded end. + +The long legs are attached by screws to a cleat which itself is screwed +to the underside of the top of the board, as shown. This cleat is 7/8" x +1-1/8" x 4-1/2" and is glued and held to the top by 1-1/4" flat-head +screws, two of them being sufficient. These are countersunk. + +The separating piece at the other end of the long legs is 1/2" x 1" x +4-9/16" and is held in place by 1-1/4" brads and glue. It is attached 2" +from the ends. + +Two separating pieces are next made for the short legs, 1/2" x 1" x +3-1/2", and these are attached in the same manner as the piece between +the long legs. + +A cleat 7/8" x 1" x 3-7/16" is attached with glue and 1-1/2" flat-head +screws, 2" from the small end of the board. This holds the short legs in +position. + +All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper before +being assembled. No further finish is necessary. + + + + +DOLL'S IRONING BOARD. + +(Size B.) + +The method of constructing this board is identical with the method +suggested for board A. The difference is in the size of the pieces. +(Plate 23.) + +This type of ironing board is suitable for a child from four to six +years of age. + +The top is 5/8" thick, 7-3/4" wide and 24-1/2" long. + +The curved ends are struck with the dividers in the same way as in the +preceding problem. + +The legs are next cut to dimension, the longer ones being 9/16" x 1-1/8" +x 24", and the shorter 9/16" x 1-1/8" x 22-1/2". + +One end of each leg is rounded by setting the dividers at 9/16" and +cutting to the line and cutting the opposite ends at an angle, as shown +in the drawing. + +Bore holes with a No. 3 bit in the rounded ends of the long legs, 5/8" +from the ends and a similar hole is bored 9-1/2" from the hole +previously bored. These holes are all 9/16" in from the edges. + +[Illustration: _Plate 23._ + +_DOLL'S IRONING BOARD_ (_Size B_)] + +On the short legs the only holes bored are made with the same bit, +9-3/8" from the rounded ends. + +The long legs are attached to a cleat by 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head blue +screws, with washers under both the heads of the screws and between the +screws and the cleat. + +The cleat is 7/8" x 1-1/8" x 5-7/8" and is glued and screwed to the +under side of the top with 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screws. + +These are countersunk. + +The separating piece at the other end of the long legs is 3/8" x 1-1/8" +x 5-15/16" and is held in place by 1-1/4" brads and glue, and is +attached 3" from the end. + +Two separating pieces are next made for the short legs, 3/8" x 1-1/8" x +4-1/2", and these are attached in the same way as the piece between the +longer legs. + +A cleat 7/8" x 1-1/4" x 4-7/16" is attached with glue and 1-3/4" +flat-head screws, 4" from the small end of the board. This holds the +short legs in position. Refer to the detail on the drawing of the size A +ironing board (Plate 22) for the method of making the button which holds +the board rigid. + +All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper before +being assembled. + +No further finish is necessary. + + + + +DOLL'S IRONING BOARD. + +(Size C.) + + +The method of constructing this size board is similar to the other two +types. (Plate 24.) + +This size board is suitable for children from six to eight years of age. + +The top is made 3/4" thick, 9" wide and 30" long. The dividers are set +with a 4-1/2" radius and an arc is struck to touch the end and two sides +of the board. A similar arc is struck at the opposite end with a 3-1/2" +radius. + +These arcs are connected with a straight line, and the outline is cut +with a saw and finally planed to the lines. The curved ends can be cut +with a turning saw and finished with a chisel and file. + +The upper edges are slightly rounded with a file and sandpaper. + +The legs are next cut to size, two being 3/4" x 1-1/4" x 27-7/8", and +the other two 3/4" x 1-1/4" x 29". + +One end of each is rounded by striking an arc with a 5/8" radius, at the +extreme end. The other ends of the legs are cut at an angle, as shown in +the drawing. + +Holes are bored in the rounded end of the short legs, 5/8" from the +ends, of a size that will take a 1-3/4" No. 10 round-head blue screw. + +[Illustration: _Plate 24._ + +_DOLL'S IRONING BOARD_ (_Size C_)] + +Another hole of similar size is bored 11" from this. These holes are all +5/8" from the edges. + +On the other two legs the only two holes necessary are bored 12-1/2" +from the rounded ends. + +The shorter legs are attached by screws to a cleat which itself is +screwed to the underside of the board, 4-1/2" from the large end. This +cleat is 1" x 1-1/4" x 6-3/4" and is held in place with glue and 1-3/4" +flat-head screws, countersunk. Two of these screws are sufficient. + +The separating piece at the other end of the legs is 3/4" x 1-1/4" x +6-13/16", and is held in place by 1-1/2" brads and glue, and is attached +3-1/2" from the ends. + +Two separating pieces are next made for the long legs, 3/4" x 1-1/4" x +5-1/4", and these are attached in the same manner as the pieces between +the other set of legs. + +A cleat 1-1/8" x 1-3/8" x 5-3/16" is attached with glue and 2" flat-head +screws, 5-1/2" from the small end of the board. This holds the short +legs in position. + +The wood button, shown on the drawing for the Size A ironing board +(Plate 22), is attached to this cleat and prevents the board from +collapsing. + +All pieces should be thoroughly sandpapered with No. 1/2 sandpaper +before being assembled. + +No further finish is necessary. + + + + +DOLL'S CLOTHES RACK. + + +This folding clothes rack is an interesting toy and requires some skill +in assembling. (Plate 25.) + +[Illustration: Playing House is real fun with such a dolls' clothes +rack, ironing board, wash bench, table and stepladder.] + +The four legs are cut 3/8" x 3/4" x 13" and each end is rounded by first +striking semicircles on the ends, using a 3/8" radius, and then +finishing with a chisel carefully to the line. + +Holes are bored in these legs with a 1/4" bit in the following places: +3/8" from the top, 4-7/8" beyond this, 3-1/4" beyond this, and 1-3/4" +beyond this. Extreme care must be taken not to split the wood. Bore +through from one side until the spur of the bit just starts to come +through, then remove the bit and bore back from the other side. + +[Illustration: _Plate 25._ + +_DOLL'S CLOTHES RACK_] + +Next cut the four top pieces to size, two being 3/8" x 3/4" x 6" and two +3/8" x 3/4" x 7". These are also rounded on both ends. Holes are bored +3/8" from each end of all of these and also half way between their ends, +as shown in Plate 25. + +These pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper. + +The cross pieces are cut from 1/4" dowels as follows: Four pieces, +8-3/4" long; six pieces, 8" long; and one piece, 7-1/4" long. + +The long dowel sticks are the ones that go at points a, b, c and d, +Plate 25, on the outside legs. The 8" dowels go at points e, f, g, h, i, +and j. The single short dowel goes at point k. + +Examine the drawing carefully and see that the four top pieces are +placed on the correct dowels. Hold all dowels, which are not at movable +points, with 3/4" brads. + +Be sure every piece is in its proper position before driving in the +brads and then be positive that no brad is being driven at a point where +the dowel must be free to move in the hole. It is always best to +assemble the rack completely and by closing and opening it learn clearly +just where the brads are to be placed. + +No further finish is necessary. + + + + +CHILD'S WASH BENCH. + + +This bench may be made in various sizes to fit different heights of +children. The top consists of three slats and for the size bench shown +in Plate 26, the slats are made 3/8" x 1-3/4" x 18". These slats have +screw holes bored 2-3/8" from the ends and 3/8" from the edges, as +shown. These are countersunk to receive 1" No. 6 flat-head screws. + +Two braces are made 3/4" x 1/4" x 8". These are to support the slats. +One inch from one end of these braces, and 5/8" from the edges, a hole +is bored with a 3/8" bit. The same distance from the other end a similar +hole is bored and a piece is sawed out, as shown in the drawing, to +receive and support the dowel rod. + +The legs of the bench are cut 3/8" x 1" x 12-3/4". One-half inch from +one end a hole is bored with a 3/8" bit. One and one-half inches from +the other end a similar hole is bored and 7" from the same end the third +hole is bored, making three in each leg. Care must be taken in boring +these holes not to split the work as the bit goes through. Bore through +on one side until the spur of the bit just starts through on the +opposite side. Remove the bit and place the spur point in the small hole +made by the spur and bore back in the opposite direction. + +[Illustration: _Plate 26._ + +_CHILD'S WASH BENCH_] + +The two cross slats forming the braces are 3/8" x 3/4" x 13". A center +lap joint is made by cutting through half way on both slats at such an +angle as will cause the outer edge of the slats to be about five inches +apart. The ends of the slats should be sawed at such an angle as will +make them flush with the sides of the legs and small holes drilled and +countersunk so that they may be attached with 3/4" No. 4 flat-head +screws. + +Two 3/8" dowel rods should next be cut, one being 12-1/2" long and the +other 14" long. + +These dowels should be held in place in the legs by 3/4" brads, care +being taken not to nail where there is to be a moving joint. + +All pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper. + +No other finish is necessary. + + + + +CHILD'S STEP LADDER. + + +This step ladder may be made in various sizes, the one shown here being +suitable for children up to seven or eight years of age. (Plate 27.) + +The two front legs should be cut first, 5/8" x 2-1/4" x 21". It will be +noticed that the two ends are cut off at an angle. This angle is +obtained by measuring back on one side 1" and drawing to this point from +the opposite corner. Make all of these angles equal and if possible cut +them in a miter-box. + +The two rear legs, or braces, are cut 5/8" x 1-1/8" x 17-3/4", and the +two ends are rounded. The semicircle is marked out by setting the +dividers, or a compass, at a 9/16" radius and striking the curve tangent +to the sides and ends of the legs. + +Two holes are bored with a No. 8 bit, 5/16" from one end of the rear +legs and 1-1/4" from the other end, as indicated, care being taken not +to split the wood. + +The top step is next made 5/8" x 5-1/4" x 9-3/4", and the top edges +slightly rounded. + +Two holes are bored with a small drill, 1-1/2" from the ends of this +step and 1" from the rear and front edges of both ends. These should be +countersunk. Later, when assembled, this top is screwed to the braces +with 1" No. 6 flat-head screws, as shown in the front view. (Plate 27.) + +Two braces are next made 5/8" x 2" x 5-1/4", and are cut off at either +end at the same angle as were the ends of the front legs. These are +attached to the inside of the legs, at the top, as shown in the side +view, with four 1" No. 6 flat-head screws and glue. Care should be taken +to get them just even with the front and top sides of the legs. Before +the braces are attached a hole should be bored with a No. 8 bit 5/8" +from the top edge and 1" from the left-hand edge to receive the dowel +stick on which the rear leg swings. + +[Illustration: _Plate 27._ + +_CHILD'S STEP LADDER_] + +While boring this hole the end should be held with a clamp to prevent +splitting. + +The two lower steps are next made. These are 5/8" thick and are cut 3" +wide. The width is greater than is needed, and is provided that the +steps may be planed even with the edges of the legs later. The steps are +cut 8" in length. + +The next operation is cutting grooves for the steps to set into the +legs, and this requires considerable care. + +The lower step is 5-3/4" from the lower end of the legs. This dimension +is measured off on each leg, and a line is drawn parallel with the lower +end of the leg. This may be done by either using a T bevel, set at the +angle of the lower end of the legs, or the dimension, 5-3/4", may be +measured up on both sides of the leg and a line drawn across. + +Next take the lower step and mark one end A and the other end B. Place +the end A, of the lower step, evenly on this line and make a mark above +the first line a little less than the thickness of the step. The groove +is marked a little less than the thickness of the step so that, in case +the saw cut is made a little wide, the step will not be likely to fit +loosely. + +Square lines across both edges of the edge from the end of the lines +previously drawn and measure down from the surface a distance of 1/4" on +the edges. Draw a line through this point parallel to the edge of the +leg. + +Next saw carefully on the lines, first drawn, down as far as this last +line and cut the wood out with a half-inch chisel. + +If the step will not fit in the slot, plane a very slight amount from +the surface of the step until it fits snugly into the groove. + +End B is fitted to the opposite leg in a similar way and the second step +is placed in a like manner, 6-7/8" above the lower step. + +If the drawing is examined, as these directions for placing the steps +are read, the explanation will be greatly simplified. + +The two narrow cross braces are next made, 3/8" x 5/8" x 15-1/2". These +are crossed at their middle point in a middle-lap joint, a groove being +cut half through each piece wide enough to insure a tight joint. These +braces are attached to the rear legs, 2-1/2" from their lower ends, with +3/4" No. 6 flat-head screws, the holes being previously bored and +countersunk. + +Cut the ends of the braces even with the ends of the legs. + +Holes are bored with a small bit in the grooves in the legs, 1/2" in +from the sides, as shown. These holes are for the round-head screws +which hold the steps in place. The steps are held in the grooves of the +legs with glue and 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws. + +[Illustration: _Plate 28._ + +_DOLL'S TABLE WITH DRAWER_] + +The dowel sticks are now cut 8-3/4" long from a 1/2" dowel and, after +all pieces of wood are carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper, the step +ladder is assembled. + +A 3/4" brad should be driven into the edge of the rear legs so that it +will penetrate and hold the dowel in place. + +A piece of small chain should be fastened to each front and rear leg, as +shown, of a length sufficient to have the front legs of the ladder set +flat on the ground. Also take care that the two chains are even with +each other and parallel with the ground. No further finish is required. + + + + +DOLL'S TABLE WITH DRAWER. + + +While this table may be made in various sizes, the one shown in the +accompanying drawing has proven very popular. + +The four legs are first made 7/8" x 1-1/4" x 12". Measure down 3" from +one end and taper the legs equally from this point to a width of 7/8" at +the opposite ends, as shown. + +The two side rails are made 1/2" x 2-7/8" x 6-1/2". The two front rails +above and below the drawer are cut 1/2" x 1/2" x 12". + +On the side and rear rails, centers for dowels are located 5/8" from +the top and lower edges and half way between the sides. An inch brad is +driven in a short distance at these points, and the head is cut off +about 1/4" above the surface of the wood. These ends are now placed so +that their upper edges are even with the top of the legs. Press down +lightly on the rails and a mark will be made on the surface of the legs. + +Remove the brads and bore the dowel hole with a 1/4" bit, 1-1/4" deep. + +The two drawer rails are treated in the same manner and the holes are +bored. + +The top will no doubt have to be made of two pieces of wood jointed and +glued together, and reinforced with dowels. + +The finished dimensions are 3/8" x 12" x 19". + +Short blocks of wood are screwed to the rear and two side rails even +with their tops, and screws are later put through these from their under +side to hold the top in place. A 3/4" No. 6 screw is placed in the +center of the upper drawer rail to assist in holding the top in place. +(See Plate 28 for details of the method of attaching the top.) + +Two strips of wood 1/2" wide, and thick and long enough to fit tightly +between the front and rear rails, are made to serve as drawer slides. + +Similar strips of wood are glued to the inner part of the end rails to +cause the drawer to run evenly. These strips are just thick enough to +bring their surface even with the edge of the leg. + +All rails should be thoroughly sanded and then assembled with glue, +screws, and brads as directed, the rails and legs being clamped for +several hours to insure a tight fit. + +If the various parts of the table have been accurately made, the drawer +should be now constructed to the dimensions called for in the drawing. +If there has been any error in the making of the several pieces, of +course the drawer must be made to fit the space in that individual +table. + +The drawer front is 3/8" x 1-7/8" x 12". The sides are 1/4" x 1-7/8" x +11-1/2". These dimensions may all have to be trimmed down somewhat to +secure an easy sliding fit. The drawer construction is clearly shown in +the sketch. Bottom pieces of 1/4" wood are cut to fit, and after +sanding, all pieces are glued and bradded together. + +Handles of the size shown in the drawing may be turned on the lathe or +made by hand, and placed as indicated. + +As this type of table is patterned after the ordinary kitchen table it +may be left unfinished. + + + + +COLONIAL DOLL'S TABLE. + + +This table, with the accompanying chairs shown in Plate 30, makes a very +artistic and interesting problem in toy-making. + +The table and chairs work up very nicely if made of oak and stained a +mission brown. They may also be made of soft wood and stained or +painted. Directions for staining may be found in the front part of the +book. + +The top (Plate 29) is made 3/8" x 11" x 16" and, if a piece of wood 11" +wide is not obtainable, two narrow pieces will have to be joined. (See +method of joining wood on page 18.) + +The four uprights are made 1" x 1" x 6-1/4", and the four cross pieces +5/8" x 1" x 8". + +The ends of the cross pieces are cut at a bevel, as shown, and notches +are cut 1-1/8" from each end, 1/8" deep, to receive the ends of the +upright. Care must be taken to get a snug fit. It is better to have the +notches a trifle too small than too large. If cut a little small, the +uprights are easily made to fit the grooves by planing a slight amount +from their edges. + +Four bottom pieces are made 1/4" x 1-1/4" x 1-1/4", to be attached to +the lower cross piece, as shown, allowing 1/8" projection all around. +They are fastened with 1/2" brads and glue. When attaching, see that the +grain of the little square pieces runs the same as the cross pieces. On +account of the thinness of the wood, holes may have to be bored for the +brads. If no small drill is at hand a brad may be used as a drill. + +[Illustration: _Plate 29._ + +_COLONIAL DOLL'S TABLE_] + +Holes are bored in the two upper cross pieces, 3/4" from their ends. +These are countersunk to receive 3/4" No.6 flat-head screws, when +assembling, and are to hold the top in place. + +Holes are likewise bored for the same size screws, 1-5/8" from each end +of the four cross pieces, which brings the holes in the center of each +notch. These holes are also countersunk. + +The long lower brace is made 5/16" x 2-1/2" x 12". When assembling, this +piece is located as shown in the drawing and is held in place with glue +and 1/2" brads. + +Sand all pieces carefully with No.1 sandpaper first and finish with No. +0. + +If stain is to be used, it may be found easier to stain the pieces +before assembling. Assemble as previously described, using glue where +necessary and turning all screws up tightly. Apply final finish as +desired. + + + + +COLONIAL DOLL'S CHAIR. + + +This chair goes with the Colonial Table shown in the preceding drawing +(Plate 29), and at least two chairs should be made to form the set. + +The sides are first cut from 3/8" material, 5" wide and 11-1/2" long. + +A freehand curve, following the general design of the one shown, should +be traced on a piece of paper, cut to the above size. After the outline +is satisfactory, the design should be traced on the wood preparatory to +cutting out. The cutting should be done with a coping saw, cutting to +the line for a finish. Place the two sides together to see if they +match. Variations should be trimmed down so that the pieces are exact +duplicates. + +The back is next made, 3/8" x 5-1/8" x 10-3/4". + +The seat is made 3/8" x 4-1/2" x 5-1/8", and the front board of the seat +measures 3/8" x 3-1/2" x 5-1/8". The seat is rounded on the front edge, +and the front board of seat is beveled at top and bottom to set snugly +under the seat, at the slight angle shown. This angle is obtained by +measuring in 1-3/8" from the front, as shown in the side view. + +Sandpaper all pieces thoroughly and assemble the sides and back first, +with glue and 3/4" brads. Set these brads below the surface and fill the +cavity with hard beeswax. Assemble the seat and front board next, and +then nail these between the sides of the chair, as shown in the drawing. + +Finish as desired. See Pages 15 to 18 for method of staining and +painting. + +[Illustration: _Plate 30._ + +_COLONIAL DOLL'S CHAIR_] + + + + +RING-THE-HOOK GAME. + + +This game is very simple in construction yet affords a great deal of +pleasure to young people. (Plate 31.) + +The desired outline, the dimensions for which are given in the drawing, +is sketched on a piece of folded paper, as is shown by the sketch, and +the design is then cut out and traced on a piece of wood cut from stock +5/8" x 11" x 12". + +The cutting should be roughly done with a turning saw and finished +carefully to the line with a chisel and file. + +A small chamfer gives a finished appearance if placed on the front edge. + +The board should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first, and +then finished with No. 0. The final finish may be several coats of +shellac or two coats of a bright lively color of paint. If a shellac +finish is used, the numbers should be lettered in with water-proof India +ink, after the first coat of shellac is dry, and the second coat should +be applied over this. + +If paint is the finish selected, the numbers may be put on with the ink +after the final coat is dry. + +Hooks are located at the various points shown on the drawing, and pains +should be taken to get them in perpendicular to the surface of the +board. Place a screw-hook at the top to hang up by. + +The rings used are the ordinary preserve jar rings and ten should +constitute a set. + +The board should be placed on the wall, about five feet from the floor +and the contestants should stand about six feet from it. + +The idea is to toss the rings in such a manner that they will land over +the hooks. The best results are obtained by holding the ring between the +thumb and the first two fingers, at right angles to the floor. Throw in +such a way that the ring will strike flat against the board. With a +little practice considerable accuracy can be developed in placing the +rings. + +A score of one hundred should constitute a game. + + + + +FIVE POST RING TOSS. + + +Although the game of ring toss is an old one, yet it never loses its +attraction for many young people, and older ones as well. + +The type of ring toss shown in the accompanying plate is a little +variety from the regular form, each post being painted and numbered with +the points scored by ringing that particular post. (Plate 32.) + +The middle post, painted black, is a minus score, the ring falling on +this causing a loss of five points. + +[Illustration: _Plate 31._ + +_RING THE HOOK GAME_] + +The rings, five in number, are painted at their joining points with +colors similar to the posts. If a ring falls over a post of the same +color as that painted on the ring the score is doubled. A black ring on +the black post doubles the loss. The board should be set on the floor +about eight feet from the contestants. The best results can be obtained +by holding the rings by the thick, heavy part, parallel to the floor, +and tossing quite high in order that they may fall flat from a point +above the posts. + +[Illustration: The Ring Toss.] + +The posts are made with a tenon, which fits snugly in a mortise, and are +removable so that they may be taken out when not in use. The rings may +be made of various materials, such as rope and rattan. A very +satisfactory ring is made by the writer's classes, by using chair +spline. This is a rattan, light, cheap and easily bent, and may be +bought of any firm dealing in upholstery and chair-seating materials. A +piece about 17" long is bent in circular form, overlapping about an inch +and held with two 1/2" brads, cleated on the underside, as shown. Wrap +with white friction tape. + +The base of the ring toss is first cut 7/8" x 15" x 20". The center of +each side and end is located and these points are connected, forming a +diamond shape. Cut to this line and plane the edges smooth. Plane a 1/8" +chamfer around the upper edge. + +Post A is made 1" x 1" x 11-3/4"; posts B and C are 1" x 1" x 8-1/4"; +post D, 1" x 1" x 5-1/4"; and post E, 1" x 1" x 6-3/4". All of these +posts are chamfered about 1/8" at the top. + +It will be noticed, by referring to the drawing of the side view, that +each post is an inch square for a certain distance up and from that +point they taper to 1/2" square at the top. These measurements are +figured from the shoulder where they rest upon the board, there being a +1/2" tenon below. These tenons are cut so that they will be 1/2" square +and 3/4" long. + +All holes or mortises are located 1-1/2" directly in from the corner or +point at which they rest, except the center post, which is at the center +point of the board. These mortises should be a fairly tight fit, yet +allowing for the removal of the uprights when not in use. + +[Illustration: _Plate 32._ + +_FIVE POST RING-TOSS_] + +The color scheme is suggested on the drawing but may be changed to suit +the individual taste. After painting or shellacking the board the first +coat, the numbers should be lettered in, using waterproof India ink, and +then the second coat applied. + + + + +BEAN BAG GAME. + + +This is another very popular and interesting game and gives the girls in +the domestic science course a little opportunity to show their skill in +making the bags. These should be cut so that they will finish about four +inches square and one end left open so that they may be filled about +three-fourths full of beans, peas or small pebbles. The end is then +sewed up. Burlap, ticking or any odd pieces of cloth may be used for the +bags. + +The board itself will, no doubt, have to be glued up from two or more +boards in order to have the finished size 20" wide by 24" long. (Plate +33.) Half inch bass or whitewood is suitable. + +A piece of paper should be cut 20" x 24" and folded so that it is 12" x +20". Trace the outline on this paper, cut and unfold and lay on the +board and trace around this. Cut to the line, using a turning saw and +chisel and perhaps a wood file on the curves. + +[Illustration: Boys as well as Girls enjoy the Bean Bag Game.] + +The openings are located, as shown by the drawing. The centers are first +obtained, and then the widths and lengths are measured from these center +lines. Holes are next bored, as shown by the small sketch, with a 3/4" +bit, and either a turning or a keyhole saw is used to cut out the +pieces. If a turning saw is used, the blade must first be unfastened at +one end, inserted in the hole and re tightened on the opposite side. +Finish carefully to the line with chisel and file. + +[Illustration: _Plate 33._ + +_BEAN BAG GAME_] + +A small block 1/2" x 1-1/2" x 2-1/8" is attached to the back of the +board with 3/4" No. 6 flat-head screws. This is to hold the hinge. + +The long brace is made 1/2" x 2-1/8" x 18-1/2" and is held to the small +block by the hinge spoken of previously. A screw-eye is placed about 2" +from the lower end of this brace and a wire or stout cord runs from this +to similar screw-eyes, placed on the back of the main board about 2" +from the bottom edge and 3" from the side edges. The cord or wire should +be of sufficient length to cause the board to tip at about 60 degrees. + +After the board has been carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first and +then finished with No. 0, the whole board should receive a coat of white +shellac. After allowing this to dry over night, it should be rubbed down +lightly with fine sandpaper and the numbers 2, 3 and 5 lettered on with +black waterproof India ink. Apply another coat of shellac, or two more +if necessary. + +Paint may be used instead of shellac as a finish, in which case the +numbers should be put on with paint of a contrasting color to show up +well. + +The little sketch in the drawing shows the back braces made the same as +those on the Dart Game Board. While this is a little more difficult than +the simple screw-eye and wire arrangement, it is much more satisfactory. + + + + +DART BOARD GAME. + + +This game has proven very popular, not only with the young folks, but +with the grown-ups as well. Any game where skill and accuracy may be +developed has a strong appeal to both boys and girls as well. + +The board illustrated in Plate 34, should be made of soft wood--bass, +pine or white wood is suitable--and cut to 15" wide by 21-1/2" long, +from 7/8" material. The top edge is chamfered 1/4". + +The surface should be thoroughly planed and sanded and given a coat of +white shellac. While this is drying, the rear supporting braces may be +gotten out. The main support is 7/8" x 2-1/8" x 19". A hole is bored +with a No. 10 bit, 1-9/16" from the end, and a piece is sawed out 5/8" +wide from the opposite end to this hole. See the drawing for detail. A +piece of 1/4" dowel is glued in the end to reinforce the piece, as +shown. + +The smaller piece Y is cut 7/8" x 3/8" x 17" and is held to piece X by a +quarter-inch dowel, as shown. A brass cup hook is screwed into the end +which is connected with a brass screw-eye placed in the back of the +board, 2-1/4" from the bottom edge. + +[Illustration: The Dart Board in Use.] + +The small block X is 7/8" x 1-1/2" x 2-1/8" and is attached, as +indicated, with glue and two 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws. + +The long brace X is attached to this by a 2" butt hinge and 1" flat-head +screws. + +This folding arrangement has proven very satisfactory. The board packs +nicely and stands rigidly when in position for playing. However, a +simpler bracing may be used. The long brace X may be a solid piece 7/8" +x 2-1/8" x 19", with a screw-eye on the underside from which a wire can +run to a similar screw-eye on the back of the board. The wire can be +adjusted so that the board will slope at the proper angle. + +After being sanded, the surface of the board should be given a coat of +shellac and after drying should be rubbed down with No. 1/2 sandpaper. + +The circles should now be struck with a compass and waterproof ink, the +diameters given, using a fairly heavy line. After the ink is dry give +another coat of shellac. When this is dry the board is ready to have the +colors applied to the circles. + +First paint circle A black and circle C red, painting just to the circle +edge. Allow this to dry thoroughly, and then paint circle B yellow and +circle D green. When these are dry, it may be necessary to strike all +the circles again with ink. + +Where shown, letter in the numbers to score the game. It will be noticed +that the small outside circles are minus numbers. + +Give the entire board and braces a finishing coat of shellac. + + +Darts. + +The darts may be whittled out by hand, but the most satisfactory ones +are turned out on the lathe to the dimensions shown. A 1-1/2" brad +should be driven half its length into the rounded end, the head cut off +with cutting pliers, and the end pointed with a fine file. + +[Illustration: _Plate 34._ + +_DART GAME BOARD_] + +At the opposite end two holes should be drilled of a size large enough +to receive the ends of wing or tail feathers of some accommodating fowl. +These should be dipped in glue and pressed into place. + +About six of these darts should be made and the wooden parts painted in +bright colors. Birch or maple are good woods to use. + +The board should be placed on the floor, about ten feet from a given +station point, and each contestant should be allowed to throw the six +darts. The score should then be counted. Darts landing on a line should +be credited to the lower number. One dart landing on and sticking to +another, doubles the score of the first dart. Darts not sticking in the +board are not allowed to be re-thrown. Darts knocked out by other darts +lose their score. + +One thousand points should constitute a game. + +The points of the darts may be sharpened from time to time with a fine +file. + + + + +WIND MILL. + + +This is an interesting toy to place on the top of the shed or garage +where the wind will have a chance to revolve the brightly colored wheel +at a good rate. It also serves as a weather vane. + +[Illustration: Three Kinds of Wind Mills and the Sand or Water Mill.] + +The main part of the mill (Plate 35) is made up of four pieces of half +inch stock, two being 3-1/2" x 4-3/4" and two 2-1/2" x 4-3/4". The two +larger sides taper to 2-1/2" wide at the top and the two smaller pieces +to 1/2". The top piece forming the roof is made from a piece of wood +1-3/4" thick. If wood of this thickness is not available, several +thinner pieces must be glued together. It is cut 3-1/2" x 3-1/2" and a +line is drawn around the edge 3/8" from the lower sides. From this line +the roof tapers to a point directly over the middle of the piece, as +shown. + +[Illustration: _Plate 35._ + +_WIND MILL_] + +The long support, on which the mill rests, is made 1/2" x 1-1/4" x +10-1/4". Two holes are bored and countersunk for the screws which hold +it to the mill base. A similar hole is bored from the opposite end for +the screw which holds in place the round piece A. + +The circular piece marked A on the side view, is made 3/8" x 2-1/2". A +hole is bored 1/2" deep with a quarter inch bit on the edge. The piece C +is a quarter inch dowel, 7-3/4" long. A hole is bored with a quarter +inch bit in the roof, at a slant, as is shown in the side view. This +hole is 3/8" deep. + +The dowel piece C fits in these holes when assembled, being held with +glue. + +The smaller base piece, which is attached to the bottom of the mill with +glue and 1" brads, is made 1/2" x 4" x 5". The small piece, on which the +vanes of the mill turn, is made from a piece of half inch dowel, cut +1-1/2" long. A hole is bored in the roof piece 1/2" deep to receive +this. A smaller hole is drilled in the outer end of this dowel to +receive a 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screw on which the vanes revolve. + +A piece is now cut 3/4" x 7/8" x 7" to serve as the supporting piece on +which the whole mill turns. On one end a notch is cut, as shown in the +drawing, 3/8" deep and 1-1/2" long. Two screw holes are bored in this +notch to allow the piece to be attached to the shed or roof. On the +opposite end a hole is bored in the center, 3/4" deep and with a drill +that will insure a 16-penny nail fitting very tightly. One of these +nails should be driven in and the headed end cut off so as to allow a +projection of 1" beyond the end of the wood. The end of this nail should +be filed smooth and round. + +A hole is bored to receive this in the base pieces, as shown in the +drawing, extending through both pieces and large enough for the nail to +turn freely within. A washer should be placed over this to insure the +mill turning easily. + +The two pieces for the vane of the mill are made 3/4" x 1" x 5-1/2". +Each vane is chiseled at an angle, sloping in one direction at one end +and in the opposite direction at the other, allowing at least 1/8" for +the thickness. Considerable pains should be used in shaping these vanes +to insure even balance. File and sand these smooth. + +A middle lap joint is made exactly in the center of each vane, cutting +half through on each piece and making a smooth, flush fit. Hold the +vanes together with glue and 1/2" brads at this point and carefully bore +a hole at the center large enough to allow a 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head +screw to turn easily. + +A small washer is placed under the head of the screw and one between the +rear of the vanes and the end of the supporting dowel. Turn the screw up +tight enough to allow the vanes to clear nicely. + +All pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first and +finished with No. 0. Paint all pieces before assembling. + +A suggested color scheme is shown in the drawing. + + + + +WIND MILL. + +(Type B.) + + +This is another interesting action toy and makes a very pleasing +addition to the top of a garage or barn. (Plate 36.) Children also enjoy +toys of this sort at the beaches where they can build up little villages +in the sand. + +The four long uprights are made 1/2" x 1/2" x 19". The top piece, which +is eight sided, is first made 1/2" x 3-1/4" x 3-1/4". Then 3/4" is +measured in from each corner and these points are connected and the +lines cut carefully with a saw. A hole is bored in the center with a bit +a little smaller than a 1-3/4" No. 8 screw. + +The piece to which the long uprights are attached is next made, 1/2" x +2-1/4" x 2-1/4". Measure in from each corner, on the upper surface, +5/8", and from each corner on the lower edge measure in 1/2". Draw +these sloping lines from top to bottom points and saw these corner +pieces out very carefully. A hole is bored in the center of this piece +similar to the hole bored in the previous piece. + +Attach the long uprights to this piece with glue and 1-1/4" brads, +trimming the top ends of the uprights with a chisel and file until they +are flush with the surface of the top piece. + +Carefully spread the uprights until they are 9-1/2" apart from outside +to outside, as shown. Mark off points on the inside edges 4" up from the +bottom ends and 7-1/4" above the first marks. These points are to locate +the places where the cross pieces go. + +Cut the eight cross braces 1/2" x 1/2" and sufficiently long to fit +nicely at these points between the uprights. It will be noticed that +they will have to be cut at a slight angle. Attach these braces with +glue and 1-1/4" brads, seeing that they are all even and parallel with +the floor when setting upright. + +The angle braces are made 1/2" x 1/2" x 11" and cross each other with a +halved joint, as shown. The ends are cut at an angle to conform to the +slope of the uprights and are attached to them by 1" brads and glue. + +Piece E is now made, 1-1/4" x 1-1/4" x 2", and is tapered to 3/4" square +at the upper end. This is done by measuring in 1/4" from each upper +corner and drawing to the lower corners and cutting to the line. A +small hole is bored in the center of the upper end to start the screw +which holds piece B in place. + +[Illustration: _Plate 36._ + +_WIND MILL_ (_type B_)] + +Piece B is made 3/4" x 3/4" x 5-1/2" and has a slot cut in it, 1/4" wide +and 2-3/8" long, as shown. The inside end of the slot is cut at a slight +angle to receive the slope of tailpiece C. A hole is bored 3-1/4" from +the slot end of this piece, of a size to turn freely on a 1-1/2" No. 8 +round-head screw. + +Tail C is made 1/4" x 4" x 6" and then 1/2" is measured up from the +lower right end corner and 1/2" measured in from this point toward the +left and a dot is placed. Draw lines from this dot to the +lower-left-hand corner and to the upper-right-hand corner. Round all of +these corners, using a 1/2" radius and carefully finish to the lines all +around. + +The vanes A must be very carefully made to insure a close fit and proper +balance. Two pieces are cut 7/8" x 1-1/4" x 7". The method of forming +the vanes will be more easily understood by referring to the detail, +where every measurement is plainly given. The two vanes are joined with +a middle lap joint, which requires considerable skill in forming. Each +piece is cut half way through at its middle point, seeing that the +groove is no wider than the width of the piece that goes within it. + +The two vanes are joined with glue and four 3/4" brads. + +A hole is bored in the center, of a size that will turn easily on a +1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screw. + +Sand all pieces well with No. 1/2 sandpaper. + +Paint the various pieces as suggested in the color scheme and attach the +tail C to piece B with glue and 1/2" brads. + +The vanes A are attached to piece B with a 1-1/2" round-head screw, with +washers under the screw head and between the vanes and piece B. Piece B +is attached to block E with a 1-1/2" round-head screw, with washers +under the screw head and between B and E. + +Have all movable parts so that they will move freely. + +A finish nail may be placed in the lower part of each leg to secure the +mill to the desired location. + + + + +SAND OR WATER MILL. + + +This is an interesting beach toy as either fine sand or water may be +used to operate it. (Plate 37.) It is very simple to construct and is +made as follows: The base is constructed of 1/2" pine, 7-1/2" wide and +7-1/2" long; and the four blocks which are glued and bradded to the +corners, are 1/2" x 1" x 1". The two uprights are 3/4" x 7/8" x 8-1/4", +and the two cross supports at the tops measure 3/4" x 7/8" x 2-1/2". + +[Illustration: _Plate 37._ + +_SAND OR WATER MILL_] + +Two holes are bored in the base for the screws that hold the uprights in +place. These holes are 2-3/4" from the end and 2-1/8" from the sides. + +Holes are bored in the little top braces 1/2" from the two ends and one +just in the middle, or 1-1/4" from the ends. These are for the screws +that hold the braces to the uprights and to the top piece. All holes are +bored with a drill suitable to take 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws, and +all are countersunk on the side where the screw enters. + +The top piece is made 1/2" x 5-1/4" x 5-1/2" with the two front corners +slightly rounded, as shown. + +A hole is bored of a size to receive the funnel used, 1-1/2" from the +front edge and 2-5/8" from the sides. + +A hole is drilled in each upright piece, 3-1/2" from the lower end, of a +size that will insure a driving fit to the wire used, in this case being +a piece of No. 12 copper-dipped, 4-3/4" long. + +A piece of 3/4" dowel is cut off 7/8" long and a similar hole is bored +about two-thirds of the way through, as shown. + +Four holes are bored, as indicated on the drawing, for the quills, which +are later glued in place. Feathers from the poultry yard will furnish +these. + +Sand all pieces with No. 1 sandpaper and first assemble the top, the +two uprights and the two cross supports. Paint these two coats of red +paint. + +Attach the cross blocks to the base with glue and 3/4" brads and paint +two coats of yellow. Paint the tunnel two coats of bright green. + +While these are drying construct the paddle wheel. The piece through +which the wire axle runs is 3/4" x 3/4" x 2-1/4". The four blades are +1/4" x 2-1/4" x 2-3/4". + +After these are sanded and a hole is bored through the center piece, +nail the blades to the center piece, in the position shown in the side +view. Use 3/4" brads and glue for fastening the blades. Paint two coats +of yellow. + +When the parts so far assembled are thoroughly dry, finish the assembly, +using 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws and glue. + +The toy is now ready to operate. + + + + +DOLL'S CRADLE. + + +A cradle built according to Plate 38 is suitable for a doll sixteen or +seventeen inches in length. + +The two sides should be first made 1/2" x 6-1/2" x 20". These are later +beveled slightly on their lower edge to conform to the slope of the head +and foot board. + +[Illustration: _Plate 38._ + +_DOLL'S CRADLE_] + +Measure from one end along the top edge 7-1/4" and from the other end +11-1/4". From this last end the width of the side is cut down to 4-1/2", +as far as the 11-1/4" measurement previously made. Connect the point +which is 7-1/4" from the left end with the point which is 11-1/4" from +the right end. This gives a slope of approximately 30 degrees, as is +shown in the side view. Slightly round the corners, as indicated. + +The head board is next made 1/2" x 7" x 8-3/4". + +Measure in, on one of the long edges, an inch from either corner, and +from these points draw straight lines to the upper corners. Cut +carefully to this line. This makes the lower edge 6-3/4" long. The upper +corners are rounded, as shown. + +The foot board is made in a similar manner, first cutting it 1/2" x 5" x +8". Place the head and foot board together to see if they exactly +correspond. If not, plane or saw them while together so they are exactly +alike, except in height. + +The four pieces so far completed may now be assembled, using glue and 1" +brads. + +See that this frame sets flat when placed on a level surface. + +The base is next made 1/2" x 8-3/4" x 20". The two rockers are cut 3/4" +x 2-3/4" x 13-1/2". + +It is a good plan to cut a piece of paper the above size, fold across +the short way and sketch on the folded surface one-half the rocker +shape. When this has been done in a satisfactory manner it may be +unfolded, cut out and drawn on wood. The rocker ends have a slight +shoulder of 1/8", as shown. In sloping the rockers, get them alike and +make the curve such as will cause them to rock with a very slight +pressure. + +[Illustration: Two Types of Doll Cradles.] + +Holes are bored with a small drill in the base, 2-1/2" from the ends and +1-1/2" from the sides. A hole is also bored half way between the two, as +shown, and all are countersunk on the upper side. + +Attach the rockers with glue and 1" No. 6 flat-head screws. + +See that they project equally on the sides and are square with the +edges. + +Now nail the rocker base to the upper frame previously made, using 1" +brads and glue. Have the base project equally from the upper frame on +each side and come flush with the ends. + +All pieces should have been carefully sanded, of course, before +assembling. + +The next, and last step is the final finish. If paint is to be the +finish, select the desired color and apply a priming and a finish coat. +Follow directions in the front of the book for painting. + + + + +COLONIAL DOLL CRADLE. + + +The type of cradle, shown in Plate 39, is similar in many ways to the +one on the last plate. It is, however, more artistic and somewhat more +difficult to make. + +Follow directions on the last plate for making rockers, base and +footboard. + +The headboard is cut 1/2" x 8-3/4" x 10-7/8". + +Place a center line, longways of the piece, as shown in the end view. At +the top measure 1-1/4" each side of the center line and make a dot. At +the base measure 3-3/8" each side of the center line and place a dot. + +Measure 1-3/4" from the top edge, on each side. Connect these points, as +shown in the end view. Cut carefully to the lines. Test the head and +footboard to see if they compare. + +Make the two sides of the cradle next 1/2" x 9-1/4" x 20". + +Seven inches from one end and 6-1/4" from the lower edge strike a circle +1-3/8" in radius. From the lower edge of this circle draw a line +parallel to the base. This will make the narrow part of the sides 4-1/2" +wide. + +From the point directly over the center of the circle, square a line to +the top edge of the side. The outline of the side is now ready to be cut +out. If an expansive bit is obtainable, bore the hole from the center of +the circle with the bit set at 1-3/8" radius. If this bit is not +obtainable, the hole must be cut out with a key-hole or a turning saw +after first cutting to the circle, along the other lines previously +drawn. + +The short top edge of the sides should now be beveled to conform to the +slope of the head board. + +Next make the two top pieces which form the sloping part of the roof. +These are 1/2" x 5-1/4" x 7-3/4". These must be planed at their top edge +to quite a sharp bevel until they are even with the top of the head +board. + +The top piece is the final piece cut, and this is 1/2" x 4-3/4" x +7-3/4". + +The pieces should now be carefully sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper and the +sides and ends assembled with glue and 1" brads. + +[Illustration: _Plate 39._ + +_COLONIAL DOLL CRADLE_] + +The roof pieces are next placed. Be sure that the top piece sits flat +and overhangs equally on both sides. + +Holes are bored in the bottom piece for screws, 2-7/8" from the ends and +1-1/2" from the sides. A third hole is bored at each end half way +between the other two, as shown, and all are countersunk. + +Attach the rockers with glue and 1" flat-head screws, being careful that +they project equally on both sides and are at right angles with the +edges of the base. + +The final finish is optional, but if the cradle is to be painted or +enameled it should first receive a priming coat of flat white. See +directions for painting in the first part of the book. + + + + +DOLL'S BED. + + +The bed illustrated in Plate 40, is suitable for the ordinary size doll, +16" to 18" in length. + +The four legs should first be cut, the two long ones being 7/8" x 7/8" x +12" and the two short ones 7/8" x 7/8" x 9-1/4". + +These should be planed up square and smooth and the top edges chamfered +1/16", as shown. + +The two side rails are next made 3/8" x 2-1/2" x 20-1/2". + +The four cross rails, two on the head board and two on the foot board, +are made 1/2" x 7/8" x 8-3/4". + +Seven slats are next made 3/8" x 1-1/4" x 8". + +Two long supporting slats, on which the seven slats previously made +rest, are now made 3/8" x 1" x 19-1/4". + +Three upright slats are now made for the head board, two being 3/8" x +1-3/4" x 8", and one 3/8" x 3" x 8". Three similar slats are made for +the foot board, two 3/8" x 1-3/4" x 5-1/4" and one 3/8" x 3" x 5-1/4". + +Seven holes should be carefully bored where the cross rails and legs are +joined. Use a small drill about 1/8" in diameter. + +These holes are 2-1/2" up from the bottom end of the legs and 1" down +from the top ends. In assembling these parts, use glue, brads and 1-1/2" +No. 8 round-head screws, as shown on the drawing. Next place the slats, +as indicated, using glue and 1-1/4" brads. Take pains to space these +properly and center them on the cross piece. All brad holes, wherever +placed, should be set with a nail set and the hole filled with hard +beeswax. + +In nailing in the brads, rest the bottom support on the corner of the +bench, so as not to strain the cross piece or legs in pounding with the +hammer. + +Next attach the long side rails, having their ends come flush with the +outer side of the leg. Use glue and 1" brads. See that the rails are +attached square with the long edges of legs. The two shorter supporting +rails (3/8" x 1" x 19-1/4"), are next nailed to the lower cross pieces +at the head and foot of the bed, and close up against the long side +rails. A few brads, 1" long, should be driven through from the side +rails into these to help secure them in place. + +[Illustration: _Plate 40._ + +_DOLL'S BED_] + +The seven cross slats are carefully spaced, glued, and nailed in place +with 1/2" brads. While nailing, place a block of wood beneath the ends +for a bearing. + +All pieces should have been sanded previous to assembling, and the bed +may now be either stained or painted. If painted, a priming coat should +be applied first. After this has dried it should be carefully sanded +with No. 0 sandpaper and the finish coat applied. + +Considerable care should be taken in the painting to insure a good, +clean-cut job. Refer back to the first of the book for necessary +instructions for painting. + +There is an opportunity here for the older sister to help in preparing +the bedding. + + + + +TWO TYPES OF STILTS. + + +(Type A Stilt.) + +Most every boy knows there is a certain fascination in walking on +stilts, but they may prove a dangerous pastime if not strongly made. + +In this style of stilt (Type A, Plate 41) the uprights are held beneath +the arm pits. + +The upright pieces should be made 7/8" x 1-3/8" x 5', or as long as the +boy desires. Hard pine or ash make strong, durable stilts. The edges of +the upright should be slightly rounded so that they will fit the hand +nicely. + +[Illustration: Two Kinds of Stilts.] + +Holes are bored with a 1/4" bit, 17" from the lower end and 2-1/2" +apart, as shown. The upper hole is countersunk to receive a 2-1/2" No. +12 flat-head screw. + +[Illustration: _Plate 41._ + +_STILTS_] + +The foot rests are made 1" x 3-1/2" x 5" and shaped, as indicated on the +drawing. + +They are secured to the uprights with screws and 1/4" x 3" round-head +stove bolts. Several holes at various heights could be bored to allow of +adjusting the foot rest to suit the user of the stilt. + +The uprights can be painted red and the foot rests green, or the whole +can be left plain, according to the desires of the maker. A touch of +paint, however, not only adds to the appearance of any article, but also +preserves it and lengthens its life. + + +(Type B Stilt.) + +Type B stilt (Plate 41) is made shorter than Type A and is to be +strapped to the leg just above the knee. + +The uprights are 1" x 1-3/8" x 36", or longer if desired. + +Round the edges of the uprights and bore holes at the same places and of +the same size as in Type A. + +A strap is screwed on, as is shown in the drawing, to support the feet, +and another strap, long enough to go around the leg beneath the knee, is +attached at the upper end, 2" from the top. + +Sandpaper thoroughly and finish to suit. + +A pole about seven feet long should be carried to balance and steady +oneself. + +[Illustration: Two Kinds of Carts and a Dump Wagon (in front).] + + + + +CHILD'S CART. + + +Carts always appeal to youngsters and the one given here (Plate 42) is +of simple construction. + +Make the side pieces first 1/2" x 6" x 10". On one long edge measure in +2-1/2" and from this point draw a line to the upper corner. Cut +carefully to this line. The front piece is made 1/2" x 6" x 6" and the +end piece 1/2" x 6" x 6-3/4". This end piece is beveled to conform to +the top and bottom edges of the cart, as shown in the side view. + +The bottom piece is made 1/2" x 6" x 6-1/2". + +[Illustration: _Plate 42._ + +_CHILD'S CART_] + +The piece to which the wheels are attached, is made 7/8" x 1" x 7-1/8". +This piece has two holes bored and countersunk in it for screws, 1-1/4" +from the ends and half way between the sides. + +Two small blocks are made 1/2" x 1" x 2-1/2" and tapered 3/4", as shown. +These blocks have holes bored and countersunk for screws. Bore the holes +in such a manner that they will not come directly opposite each other, +otherwise the screws will be likely to hit each other. + +Holes are bored in the front piece of the cart and countersunk on the +inner side. These pieces are 3" from either side, the first one being +2-1/4" from the upper edge and the second an inch below the first. + +The handle measures 7/8" x 1" x 30". A hole is bored 5/8" from the front +end with a half-inch bit and the extreme end of the handle is slightly +chamfered for a finish. The opposite end of the handle is cut at an +angle of 30 deg., as shown. + +A piece of dowel, 1/2" in diameter and 3" long, is cut and inserted in +the hole in the handle and secured by driving an inch brad in from the +under side of the handle. + +The wheels are 7/8" x 5" and may be cut out with a turning saw and +trimmed to the line with a chisel, or, if a lathe is available, they can +quickly be cut to size. If they are to be sawed out, a circle should be +struck with a divider or compass set at a 2-1/2" radius and then +carefully cut to the line. + +The axle is attached to the bottom piece with glue and 1-1/4" No. 8 +flat-head screws. + +Bore a hole in the end of the axle, exactly in the center, using a drill +slightly smaller than the screw that is to hold the wheels in position. +Bore a hole in each wheel, at the center point, a little larger than the +screw that is to be used. Attach the wheels with 1-1/2" No. 10 +round-head blue screws, using a small washer under the screw head and +also between the wheel and the cart body. Tighten the screw just enough +to allow a little play for the wheels to turn easily. + +Sand all pieces thoroughly before assembling, using No. 1 sandpaper +first and finishing with No. 0. Assemble the body part of the cart with +glue and 1" brads. + +A suggested color scheme is given in the drawing. + + + + +CHILD'S DUMP WAGON. + + +This toy at once appeals to the children as it only requires a simple +turn of the crank to quickly dump the load of sand. + +Each part of this toy is completely detailed in Plate 44, while Plate 43 +gives the assembly drawing. + +[Illustration: _Plate 43._ + +_CHILD'S DUMP WAGON_] + +The two sides are first made 1/2" x 5-1/2" x 12", and the two ends 1/2" +x 6" x 7-1/2". The sides are beveled about 1/8" on the lower edge so +that they will conform to the angle of the end piece. The ends taper +from 7-1/2" long at the top to 5-5/8" at the bottom. This angle is +obtained by measuring in 15/16" from either side and drawing to the +opposite upper corner. Saw and finish to this line and slightly round +the upper corners, as shown. Bore a hole with a 1/2" bit at the point +indicated. + +The bottom piece is made 1/2" x 6-5/8" x 12". + +Sand these five pieces and assemble, using 1-1/4" brads and glue. Plane +the side edges of the bottom board to the same angle as the slope of the +sides. + +The two end uprights are now made 1/2" x 6-3/4" x 8". Measure up 2-1/4" +on the short edges and place a dot. Connect these points with a sloping +line and saw and finish to the outline shown. Bore holes with a 1/2" bit +at the place indicated. Locate and bore a screw hole 1/2" up from the +center of the lower edge to attach brace block. + +Make two small supporting blocks 7/8" x 1-3/4" x 1-3/4". Bore a 1/2" +hole carefully in the center and drill four smaller holes to receive +1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws, 3/8" from each other, as shown. +Countersink these four holes. + +Glue and screw these blocks to the end of the wagon box, 1-1/4" from the +top edge, as shown. + +Make two brace blocks by first cutting out a square 7/8" x 1" x 1" and +cutting this in two diagonally from corner to corner. Glue and screw +these blocks to the end uprights, using 1" No. 6 flat-head screws. + +The underbody should next be made 1/2" x 8" x 18-1/2". + +Measure in 3-1/4" from each corner on the long edge, and with the +dividers set at 2-1/4", strike a quarter circle and connect these arcs +with straight lines, making the width in the middle 4-1/2". Saw this out +with a coping saw and finish smoothly to the line. + +Locate and drill the twelve screw holes shown, with a drill the size of +a No. 6 screw. + +Countersink all holes, except the four holes which hold the supports for +the cart handle. These four are not countersunk as 1" No. 6 round-head +screws are used at these points. + +Attach the end uprights to the underbody with glue and 1" No. 6 +flat-head screws, eight in all. + +Next make the two axles 7/8" x 1" x 8-1/4" and bore and countersink the +three holes, on the narrow edge, at the points indicated. Glue and screw +these in place, 1-1/4" from the front and rear ends, using 1-1/4" No. 8 +flat-head screws. These axles project 1/8" beyond the sides of the +underbody, on all sides, so as to allow the wheels to turn without +interference. + +The wheels may be made on a lathe or with a turning saw, 7/8" thick and +all exactly 4" in diameter. Bore a hole in their center with a drill a +little larger than the wire of a 2" No. 10 round-head screw. When +assembling, use a washer on each side of the wheel. + +[Illustration: _Plate 44._ + +_DETAILS OF DUMP WAGON_] + +A hole should be started about 3/8" deep in the center of the ends of +the axle to insure the screws going in properly. + +The cart handle is made 1/2" x 1" x 30", with one end rounded and the +opposite end chamfered 1/8". On the latter end measure in 5/8" on the +wide side and bore a hole carefully with a 1/2" bit. Cut a piece from a +1/2" dowel, 3-1/4" long, and insert it in this hole, keeping it in place +with glue and one 7/8" brad. + +Bore a hole 1/2" from the rounded end with a 3/16" bit. + +The two pieces which hold the handle are now made 3/4" x 7/8" x 2-3/4". +A 3/16" hole is bored in the 7/8" edge of these pieces, 1/2" from the +end. These holes, and the hole in the handle, are to receive a +round-head stove bolt, which is 3/16" x 2-1/4". + +Glue and screw these two pieces in place in the center of the front end +of the underbody, leaving about 1/16" space between the handle and the +edges of the blocks for freedom of movement. + +The dumping handle is made of pieces of dowel, the main piece being 1" +in diameter by 4-1/2" long. The other pieces are cut from a half-inch +dowel, 3" and 3-1/2" long, respectively. + +On the main dowel bore holes with a 1/2" bit, 3/4" from the ends, to +receive the shorter dowels. Glue and insert the 3-1/4" dowel and bore a +small hole to receive a 7/8" No. 6 round-head screw. Place this screw +and then insert the dowel through the front upright into the front +supporting block and flush with the inner surface of the front box end. +Hold in place in the block with glue and a 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head +screw. + +Glue and screw the 3" dowel in place for the grip. + +A piece of 1/2" dowel, 2" long, is similarly placed through the rear +upright, thence into the rear supporting block and box end. + +This is also held with glue and a 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screw through +the block. + +Sand and apply two coats of paint before assembling the wheels and +handle. + + + + +CHILD'S WHEELBARROW. + +(Type A.) + + +The Child's Wheelbarrow, shown in Plate 45, is very serviceable and +quite easy to make, and, if the directions are followed carefully, the +result will be a toy that will outlast a majority of the toys ordinarily +found on the store shelves. + +First, make the handles 7/8" x 1-1/4" x 30". Chamfer the handles, as +shown, for four inches from one end. + +The two sides are made 1/2" x 5-1/2" x 15" and 1-1/2" is measured in on +one long edge and a line drawn from this point to the lower corner. Saw +and plane to this line and round the upper corner with a chisel and +file. + +The end is 3/8" x 5-1/2" x 7-1/4". The bottom is first cut 1/2" x 11" x +14". On one end measure in 1-7/8" from one side and a like distance from +the other side. Connect these points with the opposite extreme corners +and finish to these lines. The bottom is now tapered to 7-1/4" wide at +the front end. + +Assemble the sides, the bottom and the end with glue and 1-1/2" finish +nails, setting the front piece back 1/4" from the end of the sides, as +shown in the drawing. Set all nails below the surface and fill the holes +with beeswax. + +Place the assembled part on the handles in such a manner that the front +end of the box part of the wheelbarrow is 5" from the front end of the +handles, and the handles at the front end are 2" apart inside, and at +the grip end 13" apart outside. + +While in this position, which is the permanent assembling position, mark +the position of the six screw holes, which are bored with a drill of a +size to receive a 1" No. 6 flat-head screw. Countersink these holes. + +The two legs are made 7/8" x 1" x 8-3/4" and beveled 1/4" at the lower +end. On the upper end a notch is cut out 3/8" deep by 1-1/4" long. Two +holes are bored, as indicated, to attach the leg to the handle. This is +done with glue and 1" No. 6 round-head screws. + +[Illustration: Wheelbarrows.] + +A 1/2" dowel rod runs between the legs to brace them, and a hole is +bored 3/8" deep in each leg, 2-1/2" from the lower end. The dowel is 9" +long and is held in place with glue, and a 3/4" brad is driven in the +leg to hold it firmly in place. + +[Illustration: _Plate 45._ + +_CHILD'S WHEELBARROW_ (_TYPE A_)] + +[Illustration: _Plate 46._ + +_CHILD'S WHEELBARROW_ (_TYPE B_)] + +A hole is bored very carefully 1-1/4" from the front end of the handles +to receive the wheel axle. It will be noticed, by referring to the top +view of the drawing, that on account of the taper of the handles this +hole must be bored slightly on a slant and about half way through. The +bit should be of a size to allow a piece of sixteen-penny nail to turn +freely, as the axle should be made of a nail of this size, cut 3" long. + +The wheel is best made of hard wood, such as maple, 7/8" thick and 6" in +diameter. + +Bore the hole in the center with the same drill just used. + +Next cut two pieces from a 1/2" dowel, 3/8" long, and bore a similar +hole exactly through their center. These two pieces of dowel are glued +to the wheel and serve to make it run in the center. When assembling, +place a small washer between the dowels and handle, as shown. + +All pieces should have been carefully sanded before assembling, and the +wheel should be painted red and allowed to dry before being put in +place. The remainder of the wheelbarrow should be painted bright green. +Apply two coats, rubbing down the first coat when dry with No. 0 +sandpaper before applying the second. + + + + +CHILD'S WHEELBARROW. + +(Type B.) + + +This style wheelbarrow (Plates 46 and 47) is planned exceptionally +strong and sturdy and will stand a large amount of hard usage. It is +made larger and stronger than Type A, and is naturally a little more +difficult to make, but well within the ability of an eighth grade boy. +This type has removable sideboards. + +The plate of details gives exact information how to make each piece, so +it will not be necessary to give the directions here. + +After all pieces are correctly made and all holes are bored at the +places indicated, each part should be sanded very carefully and made +ready for assembling. + +Care should be taken to get good tight joints on the front brace, the +wheel supports and the tops of the legs. + +The metal braces can be made from strips of zinc 1" x 4", bent over the +braces W, allowing a little freedom for removing the sideboards. Holes +should be drilled in these braces, where shown, to receive 1/2" No. 6 +round-head screws. + +First attach the bottom boards to the handles with 1" No. 6 flat-head +screws, placing the ends of the handles even with the front of the +bottom board and flush with the side edges. + +Next fasten the front and rear brace in place with 1-1/2" No. 8 +flat-head screws, on the under side, and with 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head +screws and washers from the outside of the handle to the brace ends. + +[Illustration: _Plate 47._ + +_DETAILS OF TYPE B WHEELBARROW_] + +Fasten one wheel brace in its proper place with 1" No. 6 flat-head +screws from the upper side of the bottom board. + +Place the axle of the wheel in the hole and attach the other wheel in +the same manner. + +Glue and screw the front uprights in place, as indicated, with 1" No. 6 +round-head screws, and place the top cross piece on these and hold in +place with glue and 1" round-head blue screws. + +Place the sides in position, with the front ends flush with the outer +edges of the front braces. Place the metal braces over the supporting +pieces and screw in place, using 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws. + +Braces X, which run from the wheel supports to the front piece of the +wheelbarrow, are screwed in place, as shown, using 1-1/4" No. 8 +round-head screws. + +It will be noticed that the hole for the dowel stick in the leg only +extends in 3/8". Place one leg in position, 14-1/2" from the ends of the +handles, using glue and 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws. Insert the +dowel stick in this leg and also in the second leg and secure the second +leg in place. The dowel should have glue placed on its ends, and, after +the legs are in place, an inch brad should be driven into each leg, +through the dowel, to hold it firmly in place. + +The color scheme given in the drawing is a pleasing one. The wheel is +painted two coats of red before being placed in position. + + + + +CLOWN RUNNING WHEEL. + + +This has proven a very popular toy and is not hard to construct. + +The legs and body may be made of pulp or Beaver board, a material which +is very good, as it saws easily and will not split. Wood, however, may +be used, if preferred. + +The details of the body and legs are full size and these may be +transferred to the wood by the tracing method described at the beginning +of the book. These pieces, when done, may be painted, if desired, and +allowed to dry while the rest of the parts are being made. Bore all +necessary holes shown in the drawing. + +The wheels are best turned on a lathe to 4" in diameter and a hole bored +in the center of each of a size that will allow a 1/4" dowel to fit +tightly. If no lathe is available, the wheel can be cut out with a +turning saw and finished with a chisel and file. The wheels are best +made from 1/4" maple. Two pieces of 3/8" dowel are cut 1/4" long and +attached 1/2" above the center of the wheel, as shown. This is done on +both wheels, and the piece is attached with glue and 1/2" brads. It is a +good plan to bore holes for these brads and thus prevent the possible +splitting of the wood. The dowel that goes between the wheels is made +1/4" x 3/4" and is glued securely in the holes in the wheels later. +Another piece of 1/4" dowel is cut 4" long, and is fitted to support the +body of the clown on the handle. + +[Illustration: _Plate 48._ + +_DETAILS FOR CLOWN RUNNING WHEEL_] + +[Illustration: _Plate 49._ + +_DETAILS FOR CLOWN RUNNING WHEEL_] + +The handle is made 7/8" x 1-1/8" x 30", and the grip is rounded and +shaped, as shown on Plate 48. In the opposite end of the handle a slot +is cut 1/16" wide and 1-1/2" long. This is to receive the strip of zinc +which runs between the wheels. This strip of zinc is made of 1/16" +material, 1" wide and 4-1/2" long. Triangular pieces are cut from one +end, 1/4" on a side, as shown on the detail sheet. This strip is held in +the slot in the handle by first drilling through both the wood and the +zinc, with a drill the size of a 3/4" brad, and afterwards gluing and +bradding the zinc into position with 3/4" brads. A hole, 1/4" in +diameter, is also drilled in the opposite end of the zinc, 5/8" from the +end and 1/2" from the sides. This goes over the axle of the wheel. + +A hole is bored with a 1/4" bit, 2-3/8" from the end of the handle, as +shown on Plate 48, and at an angle, as indicated. + +A similar hole is bored in the seat of the clown. The parts are now +ready to sandpaper, paint, and after drying, assemble. + +[Illustration: Clown Running Wheel.] + +[Illustration: Cock Horse.] + +The color scheme is given on the drawing. After the paint has dried, the +lines where the various colors join, should be accented with a pen, +using India ink. + +The upper legs of the clown are attached to the body with 1-1/2" copper +rivets and the lower legs are held to the upper by 1/2" rivets. When +putting the rivets in place, hold the end which has the washer against +some hard, metal body and strike with a hammer, taking care not to get +the washer so tight that the legs will not move. A 3/4" No. 6 round-head +screw holds the feet to the projecting dowel on the wheel. It is best to +bore the hole for the screw in the piece of dowel a little smaller than +the size of the screw so as to prevent splitting. Glue the supporting +dowel in both the clown and the handle. + + + + +COCK HORSE. + + +The Cock Horse is a modern version of the old hobby horse, and affords +the children, between the ages of four and six, unlimited pleasure. + +The head is made of a piece of 7/8" bass or pine, 5-1/2" wide and 9-1/2" +long. + +The features may be enlarged from the size drawn in Plate 50, by the +method given at the beginning of the book for enlarging; or, if one is +apt at free-hand drawing, the outline may be copied offhand. + +Cut the features out right to the line with a coping saw and smooth the +edges and surfaces with No. 1/2 sandpaper. + +The stick is made 7/8" x 1" x 32", and the front end is chamfered 1/8". + +Holes are bored for 1-1/2" No. 10 flat-head screws, the first 1-3/4" +from the front end and the other two 1-1/2" apart. + +Two smaller pieces, which are made 5/8" x 7/8" x 7-1/2", are to hold the +wheel in position. Holes are bored in these two pieces to take 1-1/4" +No. 8 round-head screws, the first one being 7/8" from the end and the +next two 3/4" apart. + +On this same end a piece is cut off at an angle, as shown. + +A hole is bored at the opposite end of these two pieces to receive a +2-1/2" x 1/4" round-head stove bolt, on which the wheel turns. + +The wheel is made 7/8" thick and 6" in diameter, either on a lathe or +with a coping saw. A hole is bored in the center a little larger than +the 1/4" x 2-1/2" stove bolt, so that the wheel will turn easily upon +it. + +Glue and screw the two side pieces to the long stick, using 1-1/4" +round-head blue screws. Give these two coats of natural varnish. + +Paint the wheel two coats of bright red. + +Paint the head one coat of flat white, and after drying give one or two +coats of white enamel. After this has dried thoroughly, paint the comb +and wattles bright red. Paint the beak and outer circle of the eyes +yellow, and the feathers about the neck black. Where the colors join, +outline with a drafting pen and India ink. + +A hole is bored, in the head where shown, to receive a piece of 3/4" +dowel, 6" long. This serves as a handle. Glue this handle in place, +taking care that it projects equally on both sides. + +[Illustration: _Plate 50._ + +_COCK HORSE_] + + + + +ROCKING ROOSTER. + + +This very interesting action toy is especially suitable for children as +young as two years of age. It is simple in construction and perfectly +safe. (Plate 51.) + +The seat board is made 7/8" x 5" x 21". Measure 6" in from one end on +both long edges, and at these points narrow the front end to 3-1/2" wide +by sawing out a piece on both sides 1-1/4" wide. + +Round the corners where the taper comes, also the other four corners of +the top. Similarly, round the upper edge of the top. + +The two rockers are made 7/8" x 4-1/2" x 18". Measure down 1/4" on the +two ends, and from these points carefully sketch a free-hand curve with +its highest point directly in the center of the lower edge. Be sure this +curve balances equally and that the two rockers are exactly alike. + +The rooster's head is made 7/8" x 6" x 10-1/4" and the outline is +sketched upon it similar to the one shown on the drawing. + +Cut out the features with a coping saw, taking pains to have the saw at +right angles to the surface of the wood at all times. + +A hole is bored in the head, for the handle, about 3-3/4" from the top +and 1-1/2" from the rear edge. A 3/4" bit is used. + +[Illustration: The Rocking Rooster is safe as well as interesting.] + +Be sure and bore this hole perfectly straight. + +The handle is made 6" long and 3/4" in diameter, shaping it as shown in +the front view. If this cannot be turned on a lathe, the handle may be +made from a 6" piece of 3/4" dowel, rounding the ends slightly with a +file. + +Holes are now bored for the 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screws which hold the +rockers and head to the top. The locations of these holes are clearly +shown in the drawing. Countersink the holes on the side from which the +screws enter. + +The little separating block, which goes between the rockers, is made +7/8" x 1" x 2-1/2", and is held in place with glue. + +Sand all pieces thoroughly. + +[Illustration: _Plate 51._ + +_ROCKING ROOSTER_] + +Assemble all pieces carefully, seeing that the rooster's head is +centered well and placed two inches from the front end. + +The rockers are attached 1-1/2" from the ends and so placed that they +are just an inch apart. + +Paint the whole toy one coat of flat white and sand lightly with No. 0 +sandpaper when dry. Paint in the comb and wattles of the rooster bright +red and the feathers on the neck, green. + +After these colors have dried, apply another coat of white, where +indicated, this time using white enamel. Use a small brush for the +details. The beak and the circle about the eye are painted yellow and +the other circle about the eye is painted black. + +If the paint does not seem to have the proper sparkle when the last coat +is dry, apply another coat of each color. Outline the edge of the comb +and wattles with a drafting pen and India ink. Outline also, the beak +and eyes. This causes a sharp contrast where the two colors meet and +sets off the features. + +The top and rockers are treated with two coats of white enamel on top of +the priming coat. + + + + +KIDDIE KAR. + + +It is hardly necessary to speak of the popularity of this toy. Its +construction is well within the ability of the average eighth grade boy. + +The seat board (Plate 52) is made of 7/8" stock and is first cut 7-1/2" +wide and 21-1/2" long. Half the outline of the curve at the front should +be traced on a folded piece of paper, the proper size, and cut out and +traced on the wood. This outline should now be carefully sawed and +chiseled to the correct shape. + +[Illustration: Kiddie Kars.] + +The top edge of the seat should be rounded. + +The rear support should have half its outline traced on a folded piece +of paper and cut out and traced on a piece of wood 7/8" x 5" x 6-1/2". +Finish to the line. + +The brace is cut 7/8" x 5" x 9-1/2". + +Mark out the outline of the curves, as shown, and saw and chisel to the +line. The wheels and steering gear should be turned on a lathe to the +dimensions shown on the drawing. + +A hole is bored in the seat board, 1-3/4" from the front end and half +way between the sides, with a 15/16" bit. This is to allow the steering +post, which is turned to 7/8" diameter, freedom to turn. + +Holes are drilled through the under part of the rear brace, as shown, to +secure the same to the top. Holes are likewise bored half way between +the sides of this brace, to engage with the curved supporting piece. + +The curved supporting piece has two holes bored 1-1/4" from the small +end, 1" apart. This is for the screws that go into the top. + +Holes, bored with a small bit, should be started in the lower part of +the rear brace, to receive the large screws which hold the rear wheels +in place. It is quite necessary to make these holes, using a bit a +trifle smaller than the screw to be used, as it is very difficult to +force a screw of this size into wood of this hardness. These holes must +be bored exactly straight, otherwise the wheels will turn unevenly. + +Washers should be used between the screw heads and the wheels and +between the wheels and any part they are likely to come in contact with. + +A hole is bored in the steering rod, directly below the top board, for a +screw to be placed to hold the upper and lower part of the steering rod +firm. Glue is also used when assembling the two parts of the steering +apparatus. The handle is also held in place with a screw and glue, as +shown. A hole is bored in the handle, of a size suitable to receive the +steering rod. + +Washers should be placed in the steering gear, above and below the seat +board, to prevent wear. + +In preparing the slot to receive the front wheel, a hole should first be +bored with an inch bit so that the top edge of the slot comes 3-5/8" +from the bottom of the steering gear. + +This slot should be very carefully sawed out and smoothed up so that the +wheel, which is 7/8" thick, will turn accurately. + +The holes in all the wheels must center accurately and be larger than +the screw or bolt which goes through them. The front wheel turns on a +1/4" x 1-3/4" round-head stove bolt. + +The color scheme may be varied to suit individual tastes. + +The one suggested in the drawing has red wheels with the remaining parts +of the kiddie kar finished natural with spar varnish. + +All parts should be thoroughly sanded before assembling. Two coats of +paint should be applied to the wheels and two coats of varnish to the +remainder. + +Sand in between coats with No. 0 sandpaper. + +[Illustration: _Plate 52._ + +_KIDDIE KAR_] + + + + +KIDDIE KOASTER. + + +This lively toy is somewhat different from the three-wheeled Kiddie Kar +and is suited for children of eight or over. + +If desired, this toy may be made up with three wheels like a velocipede. + +If this type is made, a piece of dowel rod, of hard wood, is cut about +six or eight inches long and an inch in diameter. This dowel should go +through a hole in the rear brace, and the wheels should be attached to +the ends with 2" No. 12 round-head screws and washers. + +The following directions are for the two-wheel Kiddie Koaster shown in +Plate 53. + +The front supporting piece is first made of a piece of hard wood, 2" x +2-1/4" x 19". A distance of 7" is measured up from the lower end and +7/8" is measured beyond this. From this point the remainder of the brace +is thinned to one inch in thickness. The top end is rounded and the +bottom end chamfered, as shown. + +A hole is carefully bored with an inch bit, 5-3/4" from the lower end. +An allowance of 1/2" is made for the thickness of each fork and the +remaining inch is removed with a saw up to the hole previously bored. + +A hole is bored for the handle, 1-1/4" from the top, with a 7/8" bit. +Another hole is bored on each side, 6-1/4" from the lower end with a +3/4" bit, 1/2" deep. + +[Illustration: The Kiddie Koaster.] + +These two holes are for the foot rests. Small holes are bored one inch +from the lower end to receive a 1/4" x 2-1/2" round-head stove bolt. A +1/4" bit should be used to bore these. + +The rear support is made 2" x 2-1/4" x 16-3/4". From a point 6-1/2" from +the lower end this is thinned down to one inch thick, the same way as +the front support. At the upper end measure down on one edge 7/8" and +draw to the opposite corner. + +[Illustration: _Plate 53._ + +_KIDDIE KOASTER_] + +Cut off at this angle so that it will come on a line with the cross +piece. A hole is bored with a 1/4" bit, one inch from the lower end to +take a 1/4" x 2-1/2" round-head stove bolt. + +Chamfer 3/8" from the lower end. + +Bore a hole 4-3/4" from the lower end with an inch bit and remove the +wood to form the rear fork, in the same manner as was done for the +front. + +The cross piece between the front and rear support, on which the seat +rests, is first made 7/8" x 5" x 13-1/8". + +Measure in two inches from the upper corner and draw a line to the lower +corner. Saw squarely on this line to get the proper slant. Measure from +this upper left-hand corner 9-1/2" and draw a line from here to the +lower right-hand corner. Saw to this line. On this last end sawed, +measure in 3/4" and make a tenon, as indicated in the side view. This +tenon should be 1/2" thick. The other dimensions for the tenon are given +on the drawing. + +On the rear support a mortise is now cut of a size to receive the tenon +tightly, and to make the top edge of the cross piece and upper end of +the rear support on a line. + +This tenon should be cut with a 1/2" bit, boring so as to make the +mortise about 13/16" deep. Remove the extra wood with a small chisel +until the tenon fits snugly within the mortise. + +Later, when assembling, this joint is glued and 3/4" brads are driven in +from the side to pin it in place, as indicated. + +The seat is made 3/4" x 5" x 7". It is shaped, as shown in the sketch, +cutting the outline with a turning saw and finishing to the line with a +chisel and file. Two holes are bored and countersunk to receive 1-1/4" +No. 8 flat-head screws which hold the seat in place. + +The seat is stuffed with tow, excelsior or other suitable material and +covered with brown burlap or with imitation leather, as desired. A piece +of braid, to match the material used, is tacked around the lower edge +with upholstery tacks to match. + +The handles and foot rests are best turned out on a lathe, although they +may be whittled out with a jack-knife. The dimensions for these are +clearly shown. + +The front wheel is 9-1/2" in diameter, made from wood 3/4" thick. The +rear wheel is 8" in diameter, the wood being 3/4" stock. + +These wheels should be made of hard wood or wood glued up three-ply. +These are best turned on a lathe, although they may be cut with a +turning saw and chiseled to the line and finished with a file. + +A special hinge may be obtained from most any toy manufacturing firm, +to place between the front support and the cross-piece. In the author's +classes, hinges of this special type were obtained in various sizes, +without any trouble. The size indicated in the drawing is five inches +long and costs fourteen cents. + +If these special hinges are not used, the ordinary butt hinges may be +substituted, two being used. + +A groove of the proper length and depth, to fit these hinges, can be +drilled and chiseled out in the front brace. A saw cut can be made in +the cross piece, across the end, in which to insert the hinge. When +assembled, screws should be placed so as to accurately engage with the +screw holes in the hinges. + +Before assembling, all pieces should be thoroughly sanded and painted +two coats. + +A suggested color scheme is given on the drawing. + + + + +SKI SKOOTER. + + +The Ski Skooter, shown on Plate 54, is best made of ash. + +The runner is first made 5/8" x 3-3/8" x 39" and thinned down, for ten +inches from the front end, to 3/8" thick. + +The runner is steamed, bent and grooved by the method shown in Plate 55. + +The upright piece is made 7/8" x 3-1/8" x 16-1/8" and one of the bracing +pieces 7/8" x 1-3/8" x 12" and the other 7/8" x 1-3/8" x 13". These are +cut at an angle of 45 degrees at each end, as shown. + +[Illustration: The Ski Skooter is great sport on a moderate hill.] + +The seat is made 7/8" x 6" x 12", and the top edges are slightly +rounded. + +Two grips, which also have their lower edges rounded, are made 3/4" x +7/8" x 5". + +[Illustration: _Plate 54._ + +_SKI SKOOTER_] + +[Illustration: _Plate 55._ + +_METHOD OF BENDING RUNNERS_] + +Two strengthening pieces are made 7/8" x 7/8" x 3-1/8" and their ends +are cut at 45 degrees, as shown. These are attached to the upright +directly under the seat. + +Bore all holes, where shown in the drawing, and countersink them. +Assemble with glue and screws of a size shown on the drawing. + +The color scheme is given on the drawing, but may be changed to suit +individual tastes. Two coats of paint are applied, sanding carefully +between coats. + +The seat can be upholstered if desired. + + + + +METHOD OF BENDING RUNNERS. + + +Place the ends in a washboiler, about half full of boiling water, and +allow them to remain about five hours. + +Place the tip, or front end of the runners, under the back edge of the +top step of a step ladder. Slowly bend the runner downward until it lays +flat on the front edges of the other steps. + +Secure this in place either with clamps or by pieces of rope and wood. +Plate 55 shows two methods of bending the runners. Regular skis may be +bent in the same manner. + +Leave the runners in the clamps overnight. + + + + +SKI SKIPPERS. + + +The Ski Skipper affords a lively form of winter amusement, and great +speed can be obtained on the surface of the snow, especially when the +crust is covered with a small amount of light snow. + +[Illustration: The Ski Skipper will please boys as well as girls.] + +The runners are best made of white ash, from half-inch material, 2-3/4" +wide and 42" long. (Plate 56.) + +The front end of the runners is tapered, starting about five inches from +the end. The extreme tips are blunt, being 1/2" wide. + +[Illustration: _Plate 56._ + +_SKI SKIPPER_] + +Starting about twelve inches from the front end, the runners are thinned +down with a plane, on the upper surface, to 3/8" thick. + +Both runners have a groove cut along their counters from the rear end to +the point where they curve upward. + +This groove is 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide, and may be cut by various +methods. It may be cut with a grooving plane; it may be scored with a +sharp-pointed gauge and the inner part removed with a chisel; or, if a +power saw is available, it may be easily cut with a dado saw. + +The upper edge of the runners may be chamfered about 1/8" for a finish. +When the foregoing operations are completed, the runners should be bent, +using the method shown in Plate 55. + +The slats forming the seat top are now made 1/2" x 2-1/2" x 12", and the +single slat for the foot rest 1/2" x 1-1/2" x 12". + +The seat slats have holes bored and countersunk 3/4" from the edges and +1-1/4" from the ends, to receive 1" No. 8 flat-head screws. The foot +slat has a similar hole bored 1-1/4" from the ends and centered between +the edges. + +The seat supports are first cut 7/8" x 7-1/2" x 9-1/2" and then an inch +is measured in on the top edge on each side and lines are drawn to the +lower corners, as shown. Saw and plane to this line, making the taper as +shown in the side view. The cross brace is made 7/8" x 3" x 9". + +The supports for the foot rests are first made 7/8" x 3" x 3-1/2". On +the upper edge, which is 3-1/2" long, measure in 3/8" from each end and +draw the sloping lines to the lower corners, making the taper, as +indicated. Round these upper corners. + +Bore holes in the runners for attaching the uprights at places where +they will engage with the uprights, at points shown on the drawing. +There should be three screws in each large upright and two in the +smaller front support. Assemble with glue and 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head +screws at all places except where the cross slats are held. At these +points 1" No. 8 flat-head screws will be long enough. + +It will be noticed, in examining the top and front views, that the +supporting uprights are not placed directly half way between the edges +of the skis, but are offset so that they come nearer the outside edge of +the runner. This is done so that the screw will not come in the groove. + +Two blocks of wood to hold the screw eyes, to which the rope is +attached, are made from 1/2" material, 1-1/2" square. + +Two holes are bored in these blocks, as shown, and they are attached +eight inches from the front end of the runner with 3/4" No. 6 round-head +screws. A screw eye is placed in each block, of a size sufficient to +receive a 3/8" rope. + +It is best to bore the hole for the screw eye first, in order to prevent +splitting the block. + +A suggested color scheme is shown in the drawing. Two coats of paint +should be applied. + + + + +DOLL SLEIGH. + + +While this drawing (Plate 57), to all intents and purposes details a +doll sleigh, yet by increasing the dimensions slightly the sleigh will +be suitable for a small child. + +First, make the runners of 1/2" spruce, or other suitable wood, cutting +them 9" wide by 26" long. + +On the upper edge measure back 1-1/2" and from this point draw to the +corner of the lower edge. Saw to this line and slightly round the +corners, as shown. With the dividers set at a radius of 4-1/2", strike a +circle very lightly on the opposite end of the runners, so that it will +be just tangent to the edges and end of the board. Measure up from the +lower edge of the runner 7-1/2" and draw a line parallel to it until it +strikes the circle. Cut to this line and also saw to the curve of the +circle, forming the outline of the runner. Finish to the line with a +chisel and file. See that the two runners are exact duplicates. Bevel +slightly on the top edge to allow the runners to flare. + +[Illustration: The Doll Sleigh may be made larger to carry a baby +brother or sister.] + +Next make the sleigh bottom 1/2" x 10" x 16-1/2". Two braces, to go +below the sleigh bottom, are made 1/2" x 3" x 8-1/2". + +These braces are cut at an angle at each end, as shown. The angle is +obtained by measuring in 3/8" on one edge and drawing to the opposite +lower corner from this point and sawing to the line. + +The sides of the sleigh are made 1/2" x 8" x 22". On the top edge +measure in 7-3/4" and place a dot. Measure down from the right-hand +lower corner of the sides 4-1/2" and from this point, draw to the +right-hand upper corner. + +From the left-hand lower corner measure in 1-3/4" and place a dot. From +the same corner measure up on the left-hand edge six inches and make +another dot. Connect these two dots to form the slope of the front end. +From the last dot placed, square a line in from the left-hand edge +1-3/4" long. From this point sketch a free-hand curve, as is shown in +the side view of the sleigh (Plate 57) to the point first located on the +upper edge. Cut to the outline, being sure both sides match. + +The front edge of the sleigh is made 1/2" x 6" x 11" and the rear end +1/2" x 9" x 11-1/2". On the lower edge of the rear end measure in 1-5/8" +from each corner and draw to the upper opposite corners. Saw and plane +to these lines. This will give the taper of the rear end. + +Place the board from which the front is to be cut on the backboard and +trace the slope of the sides and carefully finish to the line. + +The two handles are made 7/8" x 1-1/4" x 23-1/2", and the top piece, or +grip, 1" x 1-1/4" x 19". + +The uprights are mortised into the grips 5/8", as shown on the drawing. + +Holes are bored in the center of the curve of the runners with a +medium-size drill, and at these points an inch dowel is cut long enough +to fit snugly between the runners, after the sleigh is assembled. The +ends of the dowel are cut at a slope to conform to the pitch of the +runners. This dowel is held with glue and 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head +screws. + +Holes are bored, where indicated in the side view (Plate 57), to hold +the brace in place. Holes are also bored in the handles to attach to the +body of sleigh at places most convenient. + +Holes are bored in the sleigh bottom to attach the same to the cross +braces, using 1" No. 6 flat-head screws. Use 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head +screws on the outside of the runners. The handles are attached with +3/16" x 1-1/2" round-head stove bolts. All other parts should be secured +with glue and three-penny fine finish nails. + +If desired the bottom of the runners may be covered with 1/2" strap +iron. + +Various finishes may be used after the parts are thoroughly sanded. If +stain is to be the finish, apply it according to the directions in the +front of the book and, after drying eight or ten hours, apply two coats +of shellac. Sand between coats with No. 0 sandpaper. After the last coat +of shellac is dry apply one coat of spar varnish. + +[Illustration: _Plate 57._ + +_DOLL'S SLEIGH_] + +If paint is to be used as the finishing material, decide on the color +scheme and apply first a priming coat of flat white, after which one or +two finish coats may be applied when dry, sanding lightly between each +coat. + + + + +CHILD'S TABLE. + + +This is a very useful and practical problem and has been made up in +large numbers by seventh and eighth grade boys. + +The chair shown in Plate 59 fits compactly under the table and takes up +but little room. + +The top is joined by gluing several boards together and finishes 30" in +diameter. Basswood, 7/8" thick, is very good material to use. The boards +must be carefully jointed and held together with 1/2" dowels. Hot glue +is the best to use, although the cold glue will answer. Leave the pieces +in the clamps overnight. The top may be cut to shape with a turning saw +and finished to the line with a sharp chisel and file. + +The four legs are 7/8" x 1-3/8" x 20-3/8". Two cleats, which are screwed +to the underside of the table, are next made, these being 7/8" x 3" x +24". + +These cross each other in the middle with a middle lap joint, as +indicated at A, on the drawing. A notch is cut on the ends of these +braces at C, as shown, to receive the legs. + +The legs are held in place with glue and 1-3/4" No. 10 round-head blue +screws. + +[Illustration: Children's Table and Chairs.] + +The braces are attached to the top of the table with a sufficient number +of 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws to insure a strong job. + +The legs are notched 3/8" deep, 7" up from the bottom, to receive the +lower leg braces. See sketch B, Plate 58. These lower braces are 3/4" x +1-3/8" x 23", joined at their center with a middle lap joint, the same +as the top braces, and are held in the notch in the legs with glue and +1-1/2" round-head screws. + +[Illustration: _Plate 58._ + +_CHILD'S TABLE_] + +All parts should be carefully sandpapered, first with No. 1 sandpaper +and then finished with No. 0. + +The final finish is optional. It may be stained and varnished or it may +be finished in enamel. + +If enamel is used there should first be a couple of coats of flat white +applied, each coat being sanded when dry, with No. 0 sandpaper, and the +final coat of enamel applied. + +Some appropriate design, in a grayed color, may be put on with stencil +if desired. + + + + +CHILD'S CHAIR. + + +Plate 59 gives directions for making the chairs to match the table in +Plate 58. + +The rear legs should first be cut out of 7/8" stock, 1-1/8" wide and 25" +long. The two connecting rails are 1-1/8" x 9-5/8". The lower rail is +notched into both front and rear legs, 6" from the lower ends, 3/8" +deep. + +The upper rail, on which the seat rests, is notched in 3/8" deep, and 4" +above the lower rail. The pieces so far completed may now be sanded and +assembled, using glue and 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head screws. + +It is well to reinforce the joints by driving an eight-penny finish nail +each side of the screws. These should be set below the surface, and the +hole should be filled with hard beeswax before painting. + +While this is drying, the front and rear rails can be made. + +These rails, five in number, are all 7/8" x 1-1/8" x 8-1/4". + +The wide back rail is made of 1/2" material, 4-1/2" wide by 8-1/4" long. + +Holes should next be bored for the various screws, where indicated on +the drawing. + +A cross cleat, which runs between the upper side rails and helps support +the seat, is made 7/8" x 3" x 8-1/4". This is attached, as shown in the +sketch of the joinery of the legs and rails, and is screwed to the under +side of the seat with 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws. + +The seat is made 7/8" x 10" x 11-1/2" and is notched at the corners to +receive the rear legs. The top is rounded slightly on its rear edges. + +Next assemble the two sides with glue and screws of proper size, as +shown. All surfaces should be carefully sanded and the finish should be +treated as described for the table. + +[Illustration: _Plate 59._ + +_CHILD'S CHAIR_ (_To match table on preceding plate_)] + + + + + INDEX + + + Adapting the Problem to the Boy's Ability, 15 + + + Bean Bag Game, 72-4 + + Bench Hook, 22-4 + + + Camel, 38 + + Child's Cart, 93-5; + Chair, 130-1; + Dump Wagon, 95-9; + Snow Shovel, 46-7; + Step Ladder, 59-63; + Table, 128-30; + Wash Bench, 57-9; + Wheelbarrow (Type A), 99-103, (Type B), 102-5 + + Clown Running Wheel, 105-9 + + Cock Horse, 109-10 + + Colonial Doll's Chair, 66-7; + Cradle, 87-9; + Table, 64-6 + + Coping Saw Work, 26-7 + + + Darts, 75-7 + + Dart Board Game, 74-6 + + Dippy Duck, 40-1 + + Doll's Bed, 89-91; + Clothes Rack, 55-7; + Cradle, 84-7; + Ironing Board (Size A), 49-51, (Size B), 51-3, (Size C), 53-5; + Sleigh, 125-8; + Table with Drawer, 62-4 + + Dowel Sticks, 27 + + Duck, 30 + + + Elephant, 33 + + Equipment, 13-4 + + + Finish and Color, 15-7 + + Five Post Ring Toss, 68-72 + + + Goat, 36 + + Goose, 31 + + + History of Toy-Making, 11-3 + + + Kiddie Kar, 113-15; + Koaster, 116-19 + + + Lamb, 35 + + Laying Out Work, 14 + + + Merrimac, 44-5 + + Method of Bending Runners, 121-2; + of Enlarging Figures, 39-40; + of Jointing Wood, 18-20 + + Monitor, 42-3 + + + Pelican, 29 + + Periscope, 47-8 + + Picture Puzzle Construction, 27-8 + + + Rabbit, 34 + + Rhinoceros, 32 + + Ring-The-Hook Game, 68-9 + + Rocking Rooster, 111-13 + + Rooster, 37 + + + Sand or Water Mill, 82-4 + + Simple Tool Sharpening, 24-6 + + Ski Skippers, 122-5 + + Ski Skooter, 119-22 + + Staining, 17-8 + + Support to be Held in Vise, 20-2; + for Holding Coping Saw Work, 20; + for Table Use, 22 + + + Transferring a Design, 14-5 + + Two Types of Stilts, 91-3 + + + Wind Mill, 77-80; (Type B) 80-2 + + + + +Transcriber's Note. + +The equals sign has been used to show 'bold' in this etext. + +A few minor typographical errors were amended. + +"heighth" changed to "height". + +"Sonnenburg" changed to "Sonnenberg" + +Title of Plate illustrations were taken from drawings with inconsistent +punctuation and this was systematised. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Toy Craft, by Leon H. 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