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The Project Gutenberg eBook of A Popular Account of the Manners and Customs of India, by Rev. Charles Acland.
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<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43586 ***</div>
<p class="p4 center">THE HOME AND COLONIAL LIBRARY.
</p>
<div class="bbox">
<p class="center">Published Monthly, Price 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>, or alternate Months, Price 6<i>s.</i> in cloth,</p>
<p class="p2 center"><big>MURRAY'S<br />
HOME AND COLONIAL LIBRARY.</big></p>
<p class="center spaced">CONSISTING OF<br />
ORIGINAL WORKS AND REPRINTS OF POPULAR PUBLICATIONS,<br />
AT THE LOWEST POSSIBLE PRICE.</p>
<p class="p2 center">Volumes already Published.</p>
<div class="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="Volumes already published">
<tr><td class="tdr">1.</td><td class="tdl"><i>Borrow's Bible in Spain.</i></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tdr">2-3.</td><td class="tdl"><i>Heber's Journals in India.</i></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tdr">4.</td><td class="tdl"><i>Irby and Mangles' Travels—Siege of Gibraltar.</i></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tdr">5.</td><td class="tdl"><i>Hay's Morocco—Letters from the Baltic.</i></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tdr">6.</td><td class="tdl"><i>The Amber Witch—Cromwell and Bunyan.</i></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tdr">7.</td><td class="tdl"><i>New South Wales—Barrow's Life of Drake.</i></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tdr">8.</td><td class="tdl"><i>Father Ripa's Memoirs—Lewis's West Indies.</i></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tdr">9.</td><td class="tdl"><i>Malcolm's Sketches of Persia.</i></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tdr">10.</td><td class="tdl"><i>French in Algiers—Fall of the Jesuits.</i></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tdr">11.</td><td class="tdl"><i>Bracebridge Hall. By Washington Irving.</i></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tdr">12.</td><td class="tdl"><i>Darwin's Voyage of a Naturalist.</i></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tdr">13.</td><td class="tdl"><i>Lord Mahon's Life of Condé.</i></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tdr">14.</td><td class="tdl"><i>Borrow's Gypsies of Spain.</i></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tdr">15.</td><td class="tdl"><i>Melville's Typee, or the Marquesas.</i></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tdr">16.</td><td class="tdl"><i>Livonian Tales—Memoirs of a Missionary.</i></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tdr">17.</td><td class="tdl"><i>Sale's Brigade—Letters from Madras.</i></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tdr">18.</td><td class="tdl"><i>St. John's Wild Sports of the Highlands.</i></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tdr">19.</td><td class="tdl"><i>Head's Pampas—Sieges of Vienna by the Turks.</i></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tdr">20.</td><td class="tdl"><i>Ford's Gatherings from Spain.</i></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tdr">21.</td><td class="tdl"><i>Sketches of German Life.</i></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tdr">22.</td><td class="tdl"><i>Melville's Omoo; or The South Seas.</i></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tdr">23.</td><td class="tdl"><i>Gleig's Battle of Waterloo.</i></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tdr">24.</td><td class="tdl"><i>The River Amazon—Wayside Cross.</i></td></tr>
</table></div>
<p class="p2 center">JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.</p>
</div>
<hr class="full" />
<h1>
A POPULAR ACCOUNT<br />
<small>OF THE</small><br />
MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF INDIA.</h1>
<p class="p2 center">Illustrated with Numerous Anecdotes.</p>
<p class="p2 center spaced">BY THE<br />
<big><span class="smcap">Rev.</span> CHARLES ACLAND,</big><br />
LATE CHAPLAIN AT POOREE, CUTTACK, AND MIDNAPORE.</p>
<p class="p4 center">LONDON:<br />
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.<br />
<br />
1847.</p>
<p class="p4 center">London: Printed by <span class="smcap">W. Clowes</span> and <span class="smcap">Sons</span>, Stamford Street.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[iii]</a></span></p>
<p class="p2 center"><big>PREFACE.</big></p>
<p>The author of the present work was a clergyman, who,
along with his wife, quitted England about the beginning
of the year 1842, leaving behind him several young children,
to whom, as appears from the letters he constantly
addressed to them, he was most affectionately attached.</p>
<p>They left the country full of hope that they should all be
reunited at some future period; but, before he had been
three years exposed to the climate of India, he fell a victim
to it. It is somewhat melancholy to find him at the outset
rejoicing in the very circumstance which in some measure
perhaps occasioned his death. The first destination selected
for him was little in accordance with his own taste; and
when it subsequently was altered from Assam to Cuttack,
he expresses himself delighted with the change, though the
first-named province was much more remarkable for its
healthfulness than that to which he at length proceeded.</p>
<p>Mr. Acland felt the warmest interest in the education
of his children, and, to improve their minds, determined, on
quitting England, to send home, from time to time, accurate
accounts of his progress, that they might be made acquainted
with all he beheld—the places through which he passed,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[iv]</a></span>
the aspect of the country, its climate, productions, flowers,
trees, shrubs, and wild animals. Many an interesting
adventure is related in these pages which the author met
with in the jungle; the beating of which by the hunting
parties, who go forth in bands for that purpose, is described
with an animation calculated to awaken much interest.</p>
<p>The letters addressed by Mr. Acland to his children
have now been thrown into the form of a Journal, as this
method was considered best suited to the general reader.
The Editor has, however, been careful to preserve throughout
the easy familiar style in which the father first wrote
them, that to the children of others they may be equally
acceptable and useful.</p>
<p>The books hitherto published on India have been in
general, from their bulk, confined to persons arrived at a
more advanced period of life; and the Editor of the present
volume hopes in some measure to familiarise the subject by
bringing it down nearer the comprehension of the youthful
reader. This work is intended to describe Indian manners
in an interesting way, and will in some measure, it is hoped,
supply a portion of the want that has long existed in our
literature in this respect. To render the subject more
attractive, Mr. Acland was careful to introduce anecdotes
and short narratives throughout, which are calculated to
amuse, while instruction is at the same time conveyed.</p>
<p>One distinguishing feature may be observed in the whole—viz.
a fervent spirit of devotion, which breathes through<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[v]</a></span>
every page of the original manuscript. Such passages the
Editor has thought it better to omit, as the advice from a
father to his children, clothed in the simple language he
considered it best to employ, though beautiful and touching
in itself, would scarcely appear interesting to the general
reader. For this reason the substance of his counsel has
been compressed into the present brief Preface.</p>
<p>He impresses upon his children the necessity of living
ever in brotherly love, of sustaining and comforting one
another, and of seeking the Divine aid in every emergency
of life, whether great or small. He shows them how, by
trusting implicitly in God and acting according to His commandments,
they will attain a peace of mind above all the
happiness which an indulgence in the pleasures of this life
can bestow. He explains to them, in the gentlest terms,
how necessary it is for their welfare here and hereafter that
they should act ever in accordance with the expressed wishes
of the Almighty; and that they must never cease to remember
that He moves about them everywhere, and sees their
every action, hears each passionate word, beholds each unbecoming
gesture, and will reward or punish according as
they indulge in or abstain from evil. In several beautiful
passages he portrays the unceasing watchfulness of the
Almighty in providing for our daily wants, in supplying us
with every necessary of life; and inquires, with truth, Ought
not every little heart to be daily grateful to Him, without
whose will the sun cannot shine, or rise, or set; without<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[vi]</a></span>
whose will the refreshing showers could not force and raise
up around us the beautiful and necessary things of life?
Then he inquires, How can we better show our gratitude
for these blessings than by acting in accordance with the
wishes of Him who is the cause of so much good?</p>
<p>These words were spoken by a father to his own children;
but I would ask those of my young friends into whose hands
this little volume may fall, does it not equally touch them?
Do they not feel the truth of these sentences? Coming
over the many thousand miles which stretch between India
and this country, these letters were cherished the more by
the three little children to whom they were addressed; and
now that the hand is cold which traced the lines, how much
more will they be prized!</p>
<p>Whatever may be the fate of the volume with the public,
to those whom it more intimately concerns it will be a lasting
remembrance of their father, and of the melancholy
circumstances connected with his early death. For their
sake, the Editor trusts that the present work may meet with
at least a moderate share of success; and that, in the endeavour
to render more familiar to the youthful mind the names
and habits of some of the inhabitants of India, he may not
altogether fail.</p>
<blockquote>
<p><i>London, Sept. 1847.</i></p></blockquote>
<hr class="chap" />
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[vii]</a></span></p>
<p class="p4 center"><big>CONTENTS.</big></p>
<div class="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Contents">
<tr>
<td class="tdl"> </td>
<td class="tdr">Page</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Madras_June_1842"><span class="smcap">Madras</span>, <i>June, 1842</i>.</a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Departure from England in March—Tremendous storm off Ushant—Ship becalmed at the equator—Great heat—Danger of sleeping in moonlight in hot climates—Storm off the Cape—Great speed of the vessel—Thunderstorm at the equator—Arrival at Madras—The mungoose; its usefulness in houses—Mother-of-pearl—Contrivances for abating the heat—Fakirs—Curious disease—Salutation of Europeans by natives—Employment of time</td>
<td class="tdr">1</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#July_1st"><i>July 1.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Native wedding—Visit to the Newab—Jugglers</td>
<td class="tdr">6</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Bishops_Palace_Calcutta_July_15"><span class="smcap">Calcutta</span>, <i>July 15</i>.</a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Voyage up the Hoogly—Waterspout—The bishop's palace—Appointment to the province of Assam—Great number of tigers at Calcutta—Mode of voyaging—Language of natives—Number of servants necessary</td>
<td class="tdr">7</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#August_6_1842"><i>August 6.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Change of appointment from Assam to Cuttack—Dangers of travelling—Mode of living—"Bore" in the Hoogly</td>
<td class="tdr">9</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Midnapore_September_12_1842"><span class="smcap">Midnapore</span>, <i>September 12</i>.</a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Leave Calcutta—Accident on the Hoogly—Dâk-travelling—State of the road—Arrival at Midnapore—A bungalow—Trees and plants—Mode of providing animal food—Destructiveness of ants—Snakes—Monkeys—Encounter with a buffalo—Soil, climate, and productions of Midnapore—Expenses of living—List of servants</td>
<td class="tdr">10</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#September_15"><i>September 15.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[viii]</a></span>"Poujah of tools:" a rustic festival</td>
<td class="tdr">17</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#October_9_1842"><i>October 9.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Thunderstorms—Mode of taking birds—Costume—Coins—Insects—Dinner-parties—Language—Strictness of caste regulations among servants—Employment of women—Disposal of the body after death—Dustoorie—The white ant</td>
<td class="tdr">17</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Midnapore_November_11_1842"><i>November 11.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Antics of the monkey—Parrots—Fierceness of the hyæna—Small grey squirrel—Narrow escape from a cobra—Its bite seldom cured—Vegetable productions—Usefulness of the bamboo—Dishonesty of servants</td>
<td class="tdr">21</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#November_12"><i>November 12.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Earthquake—Population of India—Religions—Money—Designations of Europeans by natives—Mode of life</td>
<td class="tdr">26</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Midnapore_December_13_1842"><i>December 13.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Hiring of hackeries—Importunacy of natives—Encounter with a bear—Goats</td>
<td class="tdr">29</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#December_14"><i>December 14.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Birds'-nests—Cost of dress—Weather—Temperature</td>
<td class="tdr">31</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#December_16"><i>December 16.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Anonymous reptile—Destruction of serpents by the mungoose</td>
<td class="tdr">32</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Balasore_Orissa_December_30_1842"><span class="smcap">Balasore, Orissa</span>, <i>December 30</i>.</a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Balasore—Volcanic hills—Hill of the large white ant—Human skulls—Beautiful plumage of birds</td>
<td class="tdr">32</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#January_2_1843"><i>January 2, 1843.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Legend of the origin of the hills at Balasore—Immense number of ants'-nests; their mode of building—Great abundance of these insects</td>
<td class="tdr">34</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#January_3"><i>January 3.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[ix]</a></span>Journey from Midnapore—Mode of travelling—Danton—Jelasore—The fort—Ancient inscription—India-rubber tree—Attack by a tiger—A hungry bear—Paucity of furniture—Palanquin-bearers' songs—Fuel—False alarm—Jackals and crows the scavengers of the country</td>
<td class="tdr">36</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Cuttack_February_2_1843"><span class="smcap">Cuttack</span>, <i>February 2</i>.</a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Journey from Balasore—Barripore—Gratuities to bearers—Fruit-trees—Alligators—Mortality of Juggernat'h pilgrims—Sleeping arrangements—The Mohurrun—Position of Cuttack—Sea-breezes—Mode of irrigation—Ancient fort—Origin of the Mohurrun—Furious winds</td>
<td class="tdr">43</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Monday_February_13_1843"><i>February 13.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Proposed new village—Depredations of tigers—Gold-dust</td>
<td class="tdr">50</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Cuttack_March_4_1843"><i>March 4.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Excursion to Chogga—Sporting—Human skeleton—Wild bull—The village—Converts—Mode of starting the game—Assembly of native Christians—"Inquirers"—Conversation on religion—Baptism—Degradation and loss of caste on embracing Christianity—Return to Cuttack—Comet—Remarkable weather</td>
<td class="tdr">50</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Cuttack_April_13_1843"><i>April 13.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Narrow escape from a snake—Hindu festival—Chena poojah, or swinging festival—Elephant-riding—Sporting</td>
<td class="tdr">60</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#April_15_1843"><i>April 15.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Domestic arrangements—Furniture—Old Cuttack—Degeneracy of modern Indians</td>
<td class="tdr">64</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#April_17_1843"><i>April 17.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Chena poojah—Self-torture of devotees—Cotton-tree</td>
<td class="tdr">67</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Juggernath_May_1843"><span class="smcap">Juggernat'h</span>, <i>May</i>.</a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Pooree—Pleasant temperature—The temple—Danger from sharks in bathing</td>
<td class="tdr">68</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Cuttack_August_7_1843"><span class="smcap">Cuttack</span>, <i>August 7</i>.</a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Mofussil society—Morning visits—Costume—Dinner-parties</td>
<td class="tdr">69</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Cuttack_August_29_1843"><i>August 29.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[x]</a></span>Ourang-outang—Monkeys—Bachelor's party—The Commissioner—Tiger-story—Power of the human eye over the lower animals—Bats—Plan to improve society—A "good gardener"—Cruel treatment of servants by Europeans—Milder punishment adopted by the author</td>
<td class="tdr">73</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Cuttack_October_12_1843"><i>October 12.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Return from Midnapore—Heavy rain—Description of a palanquin</td>
<td class="tdr">84</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Cuttack_November_8_1843"><i>November 8.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Bengal tiger—Mode of hunting the boar—Anecdotes of tigers—Poison of the cobra—Chanderpore—Sea-scorpions—Relief-fund</td>
<td class="tdr">86</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Barripore_November_28_1843"><span class="smcap">Barripore</span>, <i>November 28</i>.</a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Solitude—Power of Europeans over natives—Their social relations—Rapid progress of disease</td>
<td class="tdr">89</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Cuttack_December_10"><span class="smcap">Cuttack</span>, <i>December 10</i>.</a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Elephant-hunting—Juggernat'h festival—Its support by Government—Pilgrims—Mode of expression in the East—A grateful servant—Number and names of servants—Their generally unkind treatment—Gratitude and honesty of natives: instances—Rajah Bheere Singh—His testimony to personal security in the Company's territory—An unexpected meeting</td>
<td class="tdr">92</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Cuttack_December_25_1843"><i>December 25.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Choudwar—Sporting—Hyæna chase—Pariah-dog</td>
<td class="tdr">99</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Cuttack_January_2_1844"><i>January 2, 1844.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Military sportsmen—A false alarm—Moral—Costume regulations of Hindus—Mode of evasion</td>
<td class="tdr">102</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Barripore_January_5_1844"><span class="smcap">Barripore</span>, <i>January 5</i>.</a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Mirage at Pooree</td>
<td class="tdr">103</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Guzzeepuddee_8_miles_from_Balasore_January_12"><span class="smcap">Guzzeepuddee</span>, <i>January 12</i>.</a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Journey from Balasore—Scenery—A water-race—Encampment—A nocturnal visitor</td>
<td class="tdr">105</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Barripore_January_16_1844"><span class="smcap">Barripore</span>, <i>January 16</i>.</a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Excursion to the Neilghur hills—Change of temperature and scenery—Skeleton of a boa constrictor</td>
<td class="tdr">109</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Midnapore_February_1_1844"><span class="smcap">Midnapore</span>, <i>February 1</i>.</a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[xi]</a></span>Excursion to Bhohoneswar and Cundeegurree—Temples—Inscriptions—Attack of inflammation of the liver</td>
<td class="tdr">111</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#February_15_1844"><i>February 15.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Second visit to the Neilghur hills—A beyraghee and his enclosure—Encampment at Bengwharrie—Hunnamun monkeys—Game—Peafowl shooting—Bhohoneswar: its temples—Magnificence of the principal temple—Cundeegurree—Inscriptions—Caves—Devotees—Palace of the ancient Rajahs—Statue: considerations suggested by its costume—Anecdote of an elephant</td>
<td class="tdr">112</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Pooree_May_26_1844"><span class="smcap">Pooree</span>, <i>May 26</i>.</a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">A thunderstorm—Peculiarly fearful at Pooree</td>
<td class="tdr">122</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#May_29"><i>May 29.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Temperature at Pooree and at Cuttack—Modes of conveyance—Ponies—Arrangements for sleeping in comfort—The Rajah of Neilghur—His interview with the Commissioner—Costume and appointments—Elephants—Hunting-party—Arrival at Neilghur—Adventure with a boar—Uncivil treatment of Rajahs</td>
<td class="tdr">122</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Cuttack_July_4_1844"><span class="smcap">Cuttack</span>, <i>July 4</i>.</a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Salt-monopoly—Unjust treatment of the manufacturers—Juggernat'h—Religion of the Brahmins—The idol—The procession—Immense number of pilgrims—Numerous deaths—Evil omen</td>
<td class="tdr">131</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Cuttack_August_10_1844"><i>August 10.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Brindabund monkeys—Indian marriages—Frequent results—Peacocks</td>
<td class="tdr">136</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Cuttack_September_14_1844"><i>September 14.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Plague of insects—A night's rest—The bath</td>
<td class="tdr">138</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Cuttack_October_13_1844"><i>October 13.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Government doctors—Monkeys—Goats—Electric phenomenon</td>
<td class="tdr">139</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Cuttack_November_14_1844"><i>November 14.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Rapid vegetation—Early maturity and decay of natives—Necessity for employment of the mind—Mode of passing time—Flower and kitchen gardens—An armadillo—A whale on shore</td>
<td class="tdr">141</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Khoutah_30_miles_from_Cuttack_December_16_1844"><span class="smcap">Khoutah</span>, <i>December 16</i>.</a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii">[xii]</a></span>Antiquity of Indian religions—Manner of disposal of the dead</td>
<td class="tdr">144</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Jenkia_about_44_miles_south_of_Cuttack_January_4_1845"><span class="smcap">Jenkia</span>, <i>January 4, 1845</i>.</a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Mr. G., the collector and magistrate of Pooree—Departure for Khoordagurree—Regularity of seasons</td>
<td class="tdr">145</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Tanghi_56_miles_south_of_Cuttack_January_5_1845"><span class="smcap">Tanghi</span>, <i>January 5</i>.</a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Manner of travelling—Soonercollee—Splendid scenery—Chelka Lake—Islands—Water-fowl—Flamingo</td>
<td class="tdr">146</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Midnapore_February_14_1845"><span class="smcap">Midnapore</span>, <i>February 14</i>.</a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Sporting on the banks of the Chelka Lake—Chase by a bear</td>
<td class="tdr">150</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Cuttack_April_2_1845"><span class="smcap">Cuttack</span>, <i>April 2</i>.</a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Travelling—Hunting antelopes—Snaring game—The sportsmen chased by pigs</td>
<td class="tdr">152</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#Pooree_April_26_1845"><span class="smcap">Pooree</span>, <i>April 26</i>.</a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Fatal illness of author</td>
<td class="tdr">155</td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdc"><a href="#May_8_1845"><i>May 8.</i></a></td></tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Abrupt conclusion</td>
<td class="tdr">155</td></tr>
</table></div>
<hr class="chap" />
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p>
<p class="p2 center spaced"><big>A POPULAR ACCOUNT</big><br />
OF THE<br />
<big>MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF INDIA.</big></p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Madras_June_1842" id="Madras_June_1842">Madras, June, 1842.</a></h2>
<p>We quitted England in the course of March, 1842, and reached
Madras in the month of June of the same year. I shall give
but a brief sketch of our voyage.</p>
<p>Soon after leaving England, having arrived near Ushant,
situated on the north-west coast of France, a tremendous storm
came on; the waves rose high and washed the deck, while the
ship itself pitched to such a degree that the very dinner rolled
off the table; in the night my wife was tossed out of bed, and
thrown to the other side of the cabin. We were in the greatest
danger of being drowned. I started out of my hammock, but
was unable to stand upright. Towards morning, however,
the wind abated.</p>
<p>After this storm had passed, the ship went forward rapidly
until we reached the equator, where she lay becalmed for several
days. The heat at this point of our voyage was excessive; we
used to lie about on the deck almost all night, taking care, however,
to cover our faces if the moon was shining; for it is said
that, in these hot climates, if any one goes to sleep under its
light, he is in danger of losing his sight, and even his life.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span></p>
<p>We now proceeded more slowly until we had rounded the
Cape of Good Hope, where another storm came on. Every
sail was taken in; yet, without their assistance, we ran, in two
days, 545 miles. The waves rose as high as mountains, and the
ship seemed to toil up one side, and to send the bowsprit up
into the air, then, plunging down again, seemed to bury it in
the sea. I was standing with my wife at the door of the dinner
cabin when a large wave burst in through the upper part of the
ship, flooded the room, and shivered one of our large boats
to atoms.</p>
<p>As we were passing the equator, too, we suffered from a tremendous
thunderstorm. The heat was excessive: not a breath
of wind stirred the air. About twelve o'clock a little cloud,
about the size of a man's hand, rose in the horizon: gradually
it spread until it hung like a huge black mass over the ship. I
stood and watched its increase, when suddenly a vivid flash of
lightning shot from the heavens, and almost blinded me. At the
same moment a crash of thunder bellowed round the ship like the
noise of a thousand cannons. The lightning slightly struck one of
our passengers and the mate, but did not inflict any serious injury.
The rain now descended: not a sharp thick shower, such as you
may witness in England, but as it were all in one mass, and soon
every trace of the storm passed away; the sun burst forth, and
the ship and sails were dried in the course of a few minutes.</p>
<p>Calm weather was ours now until we reached Madras. During
our voyage we observed many curious kinds of birds, the principal
of which was the stormy petrel. These creatures quit the
land, and fly many thousand miles over the sea in the track of
ships, following them by night and by day. The whale-bird is
about the size of a thrush, white in colour, and may be seen
hovering about the great fish from which it derives its name.</p>
<div class="sidenote">CAPE PIGEON.</div>
<p>The Cape pigeon is a very beautiful creature, about the size
of our own pigeon, white, with black spots on its body, and a
blue, glossy head. We several times amused ourselves
with catching them; and the way we contrived was, to let fly
from our hands a piece of thread several yards in length, which
was carried out by the wind, and the pigeon, flying across it,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span>
became entangled in it. In fluttering about in the endeavour to
extricate itself, it became only more firmly secured; and then,
drawing the string towards us, we caught the bird, and, placing
it on the deck, suffered it to walk about. The legs of this pigeon
are so peculiarly formed that they are unable to spring up from
the ground, and can only rise from the crest of a wave, or throw
themselves from the edge of a rock. The albatross is a large
white bird, which has been known to measure fourteen or sixteen
feet from the tip of one wing to the tip of the other. We
used to catch them sometimes by casting out a hook and line, as
for a fish.</p>
<p>The Cape hen, which follows the ship in flocks, is large
and black, measuring about ten feet from wing to wing. Occasionally
we caught a glimpse of the tropic-bird, called by the
sailors the boatswain, because of its long pointed tail resembling
the pigtail which these men used formerly to wear.</p>
<div class="sidenote">PILOT-FISH, ETC.</div>
<p>The booby is a large brown bird, about as big as a common
hen. I must not forget to tell you something about the pilot-fish.
Every shark, whether old or young, is accompanied by a
little fish about twelve inches long, and striped like a zebra, which
keeps always near the nose of the shark, and seems to guide him
to his food.</p>
<p>As I have in this place said so much about birds and fishes, I
may as well tell you a little about the animals here in Madras.
The first I shall mention is the cow, by which all the carts and
many of the carriages are drawn along—sometimes, too, very
swiftly. They are much smaller than English cows, and have a
hump on their backs. Camels may be seen in the streets patiently
carrying heavy loads of goods: the people, however,
treat them very cruelly.</p>
<p>As I was going to the cathedral last Sunday I saw a mungoose,
a little green and yellow animal, something between a
ferret and a squirrel. It is said that when bitten by a snake it
runs and rubs the place over with the juice of a certain plant,
which immediately cures it.</p>
<p>My samee, or native manservant, who is a Malay, gave me one
about as large as a kitten, and quite as playful. It will attain<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span>
to the size of a cat; it follows me about, sleeps on the foot of
the bed, and if a snake comes into the room will instantly kill
it. When an Indian mother wishes to go out, she need only
just tell the mungoose to mind the cradle, and then he lies down
by it, and suffers neither man nor reptile to approach. This
creature, once tamed, is quite wretched out of human society.</p>
<p>The cobra de capello is one of the most poisonous snakes with
which we are acquainted. I saw a girl playing with some of
them the other day, but their fangs had been extracted.</p>
<p>There are a great number of beautiful birds here; and green
paroquets can be purchased for three pence, while an avadavad
costs only one penny. The cock avadavad should, when kept, be
confined along with twelve hens in a cage.</p>
<p>The large carrion-crow is as common here as the sparrow is
in England, and is so tame that they fly close to the houses, and
even look in at the windows. Nobody is allowed to shoot or
hurt them, because they make themselves useful in carrying
away all the dirt from the town. Large vultures are almost as
numerous.</p>
<p>I must not forget to mention the mosquito, which is a gnat
exactly like those you see in England. Great numbers fly about
all the night, and some people suffer much from their bite, but
they never touch me.</p>
<p>The flowers here are beautiful, and some smell exceedingly
sweet. There are two tall trees, as large as elms, covered with
red and yellow flowers about the size of a plate. In the hedges,
too, we see very splendid cactuses. I shall be able, however, to
tell you more about these things when I have been here longer.</p>
<p>The fruits are exquisite, but it is dangerous to eat them in any
quantity. For a pine-apple nearly as big as your head we pay
only two anas—that is, three pence; but they are not exactly
like those you buy in England. Here they are quite sweet, and
soft and juicy as a peach. The mango is a yellow fruit about
the size of a large orange, the inside of which is full of a very
rich sort of custard. The plantain resembles a dahlia-root, and
has very much the same taste as cheese. The guava is in appearance
like an apple, but possesses the flavour of a strawberry.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span>
There are several other kinds of fruit, but I have not time to
describe them now. I am very fond of the pine-apple and the
orange, but do not care for any of the others.</p>
<div class="sidenote">HEAT.</div>
<p>Mother-of-pearl may be bought very cheap here. It is found
in a particular kind of oyster-shell, of which I can get three or
four for a halfpenny. Though the heat here is excessive, I do
not suffer from it: the thermometer in the large room where I
am sitting is now 93½°. The heat causes a kind of rash called
the prickle-heat, which is very disagreeable. The sensation to
which it gives rise is much the same as would be caused by running
needles into the body. In every room, hanging from the
ceiling, is a large fan, called a punkah, about four times the size
of the door, and a boy is continually employed in swinging it
backward and forward, and the current of air thus created cools
the whole room. The windows are without glass. Venetian
blinds serve instead, and sometimes mats, which are kept constantly
wetted. The water soon turns into steam, and, evaporating
very fast, carries off with it the latent heat.</p>
<p>When my wife goes to sleep, the little black boy, with no
covering but a pair of drawers and a cap, stands near and fans
her, while every now and then he sprinkles her face with water
as she reclines on the sofa.</p>
<div class="sidenote">FAKIRS.</div>
<p>The people here are nearly all black, and wear very little
clothing. The population is extensive. At dinner we have
generally eight or ten men to wait upon us, but they are slow in
their movements, and very lazy. The Arabian Nights mentions
the fakirs. I have seen some here that have let their feet grow
in one position until they cannot move them.</p>
<div class="sidenote">CURIOUS DISEASE.</div>
<p>Some of the inhabitants of Madras are afflicted with a curious
kind of disease, in which one leg swells to the size of a man's
body, while the other is no thicker than the limb of an infant.</p>
<p>When you meet in the street with a native who is at all acquainted
with you, or who wishes to express his thanks for anything,
instead of merely saying "Thank you," or "How do you
do?" he presses his hands upon his eyes, and says "Salaam,
sahib." Some English persons, on going out for a walk, may
be seen to carry a whip, with which, if the natives are at all<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span>
troublesome, they lash them; but this is a cruel practice. Ladies
are prevented by the heat from walking abroad here, and gentlemen
seldom do so, but go about in what are called palanquins,
which I will describe hereafter. When we ride out, however
swiftly we go, a man called a coolie runs by the side of the carriage.
We are obliged to get up here at about half-past five in the
morning, and then we go out for a drive, or in the palanquin; at
half-past seven the sun is too powerful even for that exercise:
we then return home, take a cold bath, and breakfast. At half-past
six in the evening we are enabled to go out again a little.
In the middle of the day we take a nap.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="July_1st" id="July_1st">July 1st.</a></h2>
<p>A few days ago I saw a native wedding. At about nine in
the evening I was disturbed by a noise of drums and squeaking
trumpets. Looking out of the window, I saw a large party with
torches conducting the bride to her husband's home. She was
entirely covered by a white veil, and walked in the midst of her
relations.</p>
<p>I went to pay a visit to the Newab, a native prince of these
parts, but did not succeed in obtaining an interview. He is
about fifteen years of age, and generally goes out in a carriage
drawn by seven horses. His uncles ride by his side on elephants,
while his cousins run with the carriage.</p>
<p>The natives are a fine athletic race of men, with every appearance
of possessing talent and intellect. The tricks of the jugglers
are very entertaining: they will swallow swords, throw up three
or four knives or cannon-balls, and catch them on their necks,
and pull balls of cotton out of their throats, and make snakes
dance.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span></p>
<h2><a name="Bishops_Palace_Calcutta_July_15" id="Bishops_Palace_Calcutta_July_15">Bishop's Palace, Calcutta, July 15.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">WATERSPOUT.</div>
<p>Here we are arrived safely at this place, after a very disagreeable
voyage, the worst part of which was the travelling up the
river Hoogly. We were becalmed for some time, and merely
drifted up a few miles a-day with the tide. However, I was
much interested one day by watching a cloud, which, after
moving and whirling about for a little time, began to send down
a little thin point towards the river. Presently the column increased
in size, while underneath the waves seemed to rise to
meet it; and when they had done so a great quantity of the water
was sucked up by the cloud, which grew larger in consequence,
and then steered away towards the land: this was a waterspout.</p>
<p>The place in which we live—that is, our hotel—is a large
house, three stories high, surrounding a square, and on each side
are forty-two windows in a row.</p>
<p>Immediately after landing I went to pay my respects to the
archdeacon, and to inform him of my arrival. Not finding him
at home, I proceeded to the bishop, who treated me very hospitably,
and invited us to his house.</p>
<div class="sidenote">BISHOP'S PALACE.</div>
<p>On returning home I found that during my absence the archdeacon's
wife and daughter had been calling on my wife, for the
purpose of inviting us to their house; but having already accepted
the offer of the bishop, we, of course, were compelled to decline
this. In the bishop's palace we have two very large apartments
assigned to us, besides a bath-room, and a verandah, about three
hundred yards long, to walk in. I was scarcely located here,
however, before I received an order to proceed to Gowhattie, in
Assam, and to assume the clerical superintendence of the whole
province. At Gowhattie there is one European lady, and there
are five European gentlemen, who are the only ones within two
hundred and seventy miles. My parish, if such it can be called,
is about twice the size of England, and I shall be continually
travelling about.</p>
<p>But I must now tell you something about this place. The
principal animals here are buffaloes, elephants, and tigers, of
whose numbers you may form an idea by the fact of the Government<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span>
having offered a reward for every tiger's head. Last year,
in the province of Assam, the number of heads brought in was
two thousand six hundred, and yet these animals seem to be as
numerous as ever.</p>
<p>We shall have to travel in a little boat, called a budjeon, with
two cabins, up to Gowhattie. The boatmen are black, and we
shall be the only passengers on board. We must be provided
besides with two other boats, the one with the fowls and goats in
it for cooking, and the other with the luggage. We shall be
rather more than two months on the voyage, and must take with
us enough provisions for a year. When we reach Gowhattie the
boat must serve us for a home until we have built one with mats
and reeds.</p>
<p>There are some large birds here called adjutants, about five
feet high, with long white legs, black bodies, bare necks, and a
beak like pelicans. They are generally seen perched on the tops
of houses. The fire-flies are very pretty: on a fine night a number
of them are seen flitting about the lanes and gardens glittering
like stars.</p>
<p>The bull-frogs make a noise at night almost as loud as the
bark of a dog. A pretty brown and white bird is to be found
here, singing much like a blackbird; it is called a miner.</p>
<p>Calcutta is well termed the city of palaces, since every house is
a noble mansion. Most of the rooms are at least fifteen feet
high and twenty-six feet square, and along every story there is
a verandah, supported by stone columns. The language of the
people here seems to have retained many traces of the Portuguese,
who were here before the English. For instance, the bishop is
called de Lord Padre, and I go by the name of Padre Sahib.</p>
<div class="sidenote">NATIVE SERVANTS.</div>
<p>We have no bells by which to summon the servants, who lie
on the mat outside the room door; when we require them we
call out, without rising from the sofa, "Qui hi?" (who is there?)
then the sirdar, or valet, runs in. We give him our orders,
which he reports to the others. Although I am staying at the
bishop's, and dine at his table, and use his carriage, I am obliged
to have five servants. I have one kitmajar, or waiter, who does
nothing but attend at table. The bishop's kitmajars will wait<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span>
only upon their own master. Then I have one ayah, or lady's-maid,
for my wife; a sirdar, or bearer; and a matee-sirdar, or
assistant-bearer. These men make the beds and assist me to
dress. I have also a punkah-bearer—that is, a man who sits outside
the room, and is constantly employed in pulling a string
fastened to a punkah, or enormous fan, without which no Englishman
could live in India. Besides these I pay a pooney-bearer,
or water-carrier, and a matranes. When I go up the country I
shall be obliged to have a consummar, or head servant; a dobee,
or washerwoman; a dugay, or tailor; a syce, or grass-cutter; and
one or two others. We cannot do with less, because, if I were
to ask the kitmajar to fetch my coat, he would twist his mustachios,
and say, "Me no sirdar;" or if I were to ask my sirdar
to wait at table, he would say, "Kitmajar no do dat."</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="August_6_1842" id="August_6_1842">August 6, 1842.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">CUTTACK.</div>
<p>The bishop has changed my appointment from Assam to
Cuttack. The different towns I shall have under my jurisdiction
are Midnapore, Balasore, and Poonee. Midnapore is situated
eighty miles south of Calcutta, and Cuttack two hundred and
forty. Poonee stands on the coast a little to the south of the
great plain of Juggernat'h, which forms a part of my district.</p>
<p>We expect to leave Calcutta next week, and shall go down the
river as far as Ooloberriab. Here we shall quit the boat for
palanquins, and shall travel by night, it being too sultry to proceed
by day. At Midnapore we shall stay for a few days at the
judge's house, whilst I look about for one. Here we shall
probably remain about three months, and shall then proceed to
Poonee. Whichever of the two towns I discover to be the
pleasantest and most agreeable I shall make my permanent abiding-place,
only travelling occasionally to each of the others.
Every one tells me my station is one of the healthiest in Bengal.
Midnapore, standing on a high hill, will be best for the wet
weather; Poonee, on the sea, for the hot months; and Cuttack,
with a nice sea-breeze, for the winter.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span></p>
<p>The principal dangers we have to apprehend on our journey to
Midnapore are the dacoits, or mountain robbers, the tigers, and
the sudden swelling of the rivers from the rains.</p>
<p>Now, I must tell you a little of our mode of life here. At
half-past five in the morning we have a cup of coffee, and then
go out for a ramble. It is the only hour in the day in which it
is possible to walk. If we were to go out for half an hour in the
middle of the day it would most likely cause our death. At
seven we take a cold bath, and pour great jars of water over our
heads. I used to enjoy bathing in England, but here it becomes
the greatest possible luxury. After this is over we read or write
until nine, and then breakfast. At two we have tiffin, which is
lunch, with plenty of meat. At five in the afternoon we have
an hour's drive, at half-past seven we dine, at nine tea, and to
bed at ten. These are the regular Indian hours, but as soon as
I have a house of my own I mean to dine at three.</p>
<p>When on any occasion I ask for a glass of cold water it is
brought to me with a lump of ice in it. This is excessively
refreshing in a country like this, where the thermometer is at 90°.
It is brought in shiploads from America. At new and full
moon there is what is called a "bore" in the river Hoogly, that
is, the tide, instead of coming up gradually, swells up in one
large wave. When I saw it the other day it rose thirty feet
in height.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Midnapore_September_12_1842" id="Midnapore_September_12_1842">Midnapore, September 12, 1842.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">JOURNEY TO MIDNAPORE.</div>
<p>On the 14th of August I sent two boats full of furniture to
Midnapore, and on the 16th we started ourselves in a boat with
two large cabins and one small. I had nine Indians to manage
it. Another smaller boat contained our palanquins, two servants,
and a little sort of kitchen.</p>
<p>In going down the Hoogly river we met with an accident,
and were nearly overturned; the wind drove us with great force
against a large ship in a severe squall. We however reached<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span>
Ooloberriab, a native village on Hoogly, in safety. Here we
turned into a canal, up which we journeyed for some miles, and
then anchored for the night. The next morning, having slept on
board, we proceeded on our course, and reached the Khatah
Ghat, or landing-place (pronounced gaut), at about twelve
o'clock. Here we remained until four in the afternoon, entered
our palanquins, a kind of square boxes, which are carried on
men's shoulders, handsomely painted outside, with soft cushions
inside, and lamps like a carriage. In this sort of thing we move
about everywhere, and in crossing a river do not wet our feet.
To each palanquin there are eight bearers, four of whom are
employed at a time; one mussuaulchee, or torch-bearer, runs by
the side, along with one baugh-whaller, to carry boxes made of
tin, and called patarahs. Each man carries two slung to a stick
over his shoulder.</p>
<p>My wife travels in one palanquin, and I in another. We had
taken care to write beforehand that a dâk, or men, might be in
readiness to carry us on at each stage; and we therefore proceeded
rapidly through the whole night.</p>
<div class="sidenote">ARRIVAL.</div>
<p>Soon after leaving Khatah Ghat we found the road for two
miles under water, which reached far above the men's knees;
and at one time, indeed, I was afraid it would have entered the
palanquin; but the only accident that actually happened was the
breaking of one of the baughley-whaller's sticks, and the tin
patarah, containing clothes, floated away, but, after some trouble,
was again secured. We slept most comfortably in our palanquins
during our journey, and arrived at Midnapore early in the
morning. Here we stayed at the house of the judge until I could
choose a home for myself, in which we are now at last settled.
Everybody here is most kind and hospitable, and, indeed, it is
necessary it should be so, for, excepting in Calcutta, there are no
inns, and travellers would fare very badly were the houses of the
principal people closed against them. But when you go on a
visit you must be careful to take your own servants, sheets,
towels, and soap. My house is called a bungalow, which I chose
as being the most economical. A bungalow is a thatched cottage,
with only one ground story.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span></p>
<p>The floors of the rooms are not made of wood, but a sort of
cement which looks like stone. The house stands in the midst
of a large field called a compound, which belongs to me, and the
servants' dwellings are scattered around.</p>
<p>I have a flower and kitchen garden, fowl-house and place for
goats, kitchen, stable, cowhouse, and a banyan-tree. The pathways
through the grass are of fine gravel, and the hedges are
composed almost entirely of aloes and cactuses, mixed with a
very sweet-smelling flowering shrub, and here and there a bamboo,
which is a most beautiful tree, resembling a very tall weeping-willow.
The sensitive-plant grows wild about the compound, and
bears a very pink flower resembling that of the red cloves.</p>
<p>The banyan-tree is abundant here. Each branch projects
stalks downwards, which take root in the earth, and after a few
years one tree resembles a cluster, and covers a large space of
ground. I have several aloes in my garden, which are just
flowering. They have thrown up a straight stalk about twenty
feet high. A large cactus is now in bloom. It is about ten feet
high, and each stem or leaf is thicker round than my leg. This
kind bears a very beautiful large white flower, which opens only
at night. In my kitchen-garden are the mango, the plantain,
Indian corn, pine-apple trees, and many others.</p>
<p>Carpets are not used here, but the floors are covered instead
with India matting. In each room is a punkah, which I have
before described.</p>
<p>We procure water for drinking from a large tank or pond;
and as we cannot purchase meat, I have provided myself with
thirty-five ducks, sixty fowls, four goats, and three kids, which
last are almost ready to eat; the goats we shall keep for their
milk. The judge made me a present of a beautiful fawn of the
spotted deer, which is becoming very tame. I am just going to
join a mutton-club. Four persons enter into partnership, and
agree to keep a small flock of sheep; one of which is killed twice
a week, and then each partner is provided with a quarter of mutton,
and each in turn has the liver, heart, and head. A gentleman
yesterday sent me four guinea-fowls, and another has promised
me six pigeons as soon as I have a place to keep them in.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span></p>
<div class="sidenote">INSECTS.</div>
<p>I have just begun to make a collection of insects, snakes, and
butterflies and moths, of the most beautiful kind. The chameleon
is very common, and changes its colour according to the temper
it is in. I have one which is generally of a brilliant green; but
if its anger be roused, it becomes covered with large black spots,
and when hungry with white spots. These are the only changes
in its colour I have as yet observed: but I have seen others yellow;
others, again, black, with yellow spots. It is said that each
chameleon has ten different variations of colour. There is to be
seen here a light-brown lizard, called the bloodsucker, which is
constantly running about the walls in the rooms. Whenever we
take up a paper or a book, we are sure to find two or three
cockroaches under it—not such cockroaches as you may see in
England, but great ones three or four inches long. The grasshoppers
come into the house in numbers, and grow to an uncommon
size. You may hear them chirruping half a mile off. The
ants, of which there are three sorts, are a great nuisance. Every
house swarms with them; and unless the legs of tables, drawers,
&c., are kept constantly standing in jars of water, they attack the
dinner-cloths, and in fact everything they can reach: 1st, there
is a very small red ant, whose bite causes a very hard red swelling,
which continues very painful for some days; 2nd, a great
black ant, about the size of an English wasp, which bites, but
does not sting; 3rd, the white ant, rather larger than the common
English ant, which come in a swarm, and in one night will
devour a table or a shelf full of books. You may come down in
the morning and find your table and books apparently all right,
but no sooner do you touch them than they all crumble away to
powder.</p>
<div class="sidenote">REPTILES.</div>
<p>There are a great number of snakes about here, though I have
not yet seen one. I suspect that my mungoose or ichneumon
keeps them away, as he is an inveterate enemy to all vermin. A
venomous lizard, about a foot long, black, with yellow stripes
down the sides, often comes into our verandah, but as soon as it
hears the mungoose it disappears with all possible despatch; as
do also the poisonous centipedes, of which there are several
in the house. The noise of the mungoose is very peculiar,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span>
generally purring like a cat, but when angry it barks short
and snappishly, while every hair on its long tail stands on
end.</p>
<p>I have already mentioned to you that there are here the tiger,
the lion, the monkey, the leopard, the buffalo, the elephant
(tame), the spotted deer, the jackal, the flying fox: all these I
shall describe as the opportunities offer; now I shall tell you
something about the monkey.</p>
<p>I was walking out early in the morning, and reached a very
large pepul-tree, covered with its red berries. Presently I heard
some one chattering over my head, and looking up beheld an
enormously long ape as tall as myself, with a white face and great
whiskers. He gazed at me for a moment, and then chattered
again. The noise becoming louder and louder, I ran from under
the tree, and soon saw a great number of these animals of different
sizes come leaping down, and, after a stare, as much as to say
"don't follow us," they made a few tremendous leaps, and escaped
into the jungle.</p>
<p>The Indian buffalo has no hump on its back. It is like an
immense black cow, but exceedingly fierce. As yet I have seen
only tame ones. A gentleman who lives here was walking out
in the jungle the other evening, with the intention of shooting
some birds, when he saw before him a large bull buffalo. When
alone these creatures are much more fierce than when with the
herd. He did not, therefore, much relish his close acquaintance;
and, turning round, strove to creep quietly away. Hearing a
loud roar behind him, he looked back, and beheld the buffalo
in full chase after him, tossing his head most furiously. The
gentleman scarcely knew what to do, as there was no tree near
into which he might climb; but he was surrounded by low
bushes. Turning suddenly round, therefore, he stood still, and,
looking steadfastly at the buffalo, loaded his gun. On came the
animal, nearer and nearer, looking fiercer and fiercer. At last,
when about twenty yards off, he stopped one minute as if in hesitation,
and then, with a loud roar, turned his head, and, tearing
up the ground with his hoofs, was on the point of rushing onward,
when the gentleman raised his gun as a last resource, and fired.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span>
The ball entered through the eye into the brain, and the monster
rolled over the plain.</p>
<p>I have since seen the skull and the horns, which are of great
size. The elephants are very large, and there are none but tame
ones here. The major of the regiment quartered at this place has
offered to lend us one whenever we are inclined for a ride.</p>
<p>The jackals are a source of great annoyance at night: they
come into the compound and howl round the house, and make a
dreadful noise, but are not dangerous. There are swarms of wild
dogs too here, called pariah dogs—quite harmless. They resemble
a hairy greyhound with a fox's head. The flying-fox is
a sort of bat. Its large black wings are nearly four feet from tip
to tip, and the body is like a small fox. They fly about the trees
at night, and pick the fruit and berries. The birds are very beautiful.
There are many sorts of doves and pigeons. One sort of
the last-named is quite green; as is also the fly-catcher, which has
a long single feather in the middle of his tail. The mango is about
the size of a pigeon, yellow, with green stripes. There are also
the pretty little amadavad, and many others.</p>
<p>I am making a collection of large beetles.</p>
<div class="sidenote">SOIL—CLIMATE.</div>
<p>Midnapore is situated on a high table-land, or flat-topped hill,
about six miles across, and is much cooler than the greater part
of India. The soil is about a foot deep, and underneath it is a
volcanic rock, so porous that the rain soaks into it as soon
as it falls, thus rendering the place dry and healthy. From the
middle of June to the middle of October there are tremendous
storms of rain almost every day. Then it is cool and pleasant
till February. After that time the heat increases, and the weather
is quite dry until April; from which time until June it is intensely
hot, with occasional hurricanes and thunderstorms, of which we
have had several most magnificent ones lately; and from the
height of the hills we seem almost to be in the midst of them.</p>
<div class="sidenote">PRODUCTIONS.</div>
<p>Indigo, rice, and grain are plentiful. The first is obtained by
soaking the leaves of the plant in water until they are rotten,
when they deposit a thick blue sediment, which is formed into
cakes, and is used for dyeing cloths.</p>
<p>We have some wild silkworms, from which the natives manufacture<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span>
a coarse sort of silk. The rice grows in fields which are
under water, and looks like barley. These fields beautifully
illustrate the expression in the Bible about casting your seed upon
the waters, and after many days you shall find it again.</p>
<p>The greatest expenses here are servants and house-rent. I pay
for my house, which is one of the cheapest in Midnapore, forty
rupees a-month; a rupee is two shillings. I keep as few domestics
as I can; but am obliged to have eleven men and one woman.
The men are—</p>
<ul class="IX">
<li>1 consummar, or headman.</li>
<li>1 kitmajar, or waiter at table.</li>
<li>1 sirdar, who attends to lamps, furniture, &c.</li>
<li>1 bearer, who works the punkah and helps the sirdar.</li>
<li>1 dirgee, or tailor, who mends stockings, and makes gowns, coats, shirts, &c.</li>
<li>2 maistrees, or carpenters.</li>
<li>2 mollees, or gardeners.</li>
<li>1 motee, who sweeps the rooms and keeps them in order.</li>
<li>1 beastee, or water-carrier.</li>
</ul>
<p>We neither feed nor clothe them: indeed their food consists of
nothing but rice, except the consummar and kitmajar, who are
Mussulmans. Their pay varies from three to ten rupees a-month.
Many people keep forty or fifty men. The sirdar, or bearer, sleeps
on a mat in the verandah; the others in houses in the compound.
They are all forbidden by their religion to do the work of any
other; their fathers and grandfathers performed the same duties,
and so will their sons and grandsons also. They are a thievish set,
and we dare not leave anything in their way that they can steal.</p>
<p>There is at this moment a little grey squirrel hopping about
in the verandah,—facing the gate of the compound are several
tame buffaloes,—and a little beyond is an elephant lying down
basking in the sun and lashing his trunk about upon the grass.</p>
<p>There is an insect here called the flying-bug; it resembles in
appearance a very large ant with wings, and, if one of them flies
through the room, it leaves so disagreeable a smell that it can
hardly be borne for an hour afterwards.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span></p>
<h2><a name="September_15" id="September_15">September 15.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">THE "POUJAH OF TOOLS".</div>
<p>To-day is a rustic festival; the carpenters and all other workmen
have a holiday, and, daubing all their tools with red paint,
cover them with flowers, and then kneel down and worship them,
and beg them to work well and not to break during the next
year. This is called the "poujah of tools."</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="October_9_1842" id="October_9_1842">October 9, 1842.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">STORM.</div>
<p>We have had several thunderstorms here. A few days ago I
saw a large black cloud coming up against the wind. Gradually
it spread until it covered the whole sky. The wind now died
away for a few minutes, and then rose again and seemed to rush
from all quarters of the heavens at once, and formed a sort of
whirlwind round Midnapore; then from the darkest part of the
cloud flashed a vivid streak of lightning, followed almost immediately
by a terrific clap of thunder. For three hours the storm
continued, and scarcely three minutes elapsed between each clap,
while we saw the lightning running along the ground for several
yards.</p>
<div class="sidenote">SNAKE.</div>
<p>The other morning two men who lived in Midnapore caught a
cobra de capello, or hooded snake, and they were examining it
when suddenly it bit them both, and they died in the course of
half an hour. We have not yet seen any snakes in our house,
although most people frequently find them. This, as I think I
told you, I attribute to our keeping the mungoose, of which the
snakes are much afraid.</p>
<p>The chikary, or huntsman, makes a large oval shield, which
he covers over with leaves: in the upper part are two very small
holes. When he perceives a bird he crouches down behind his
screen, keeping a watch through the two little holes, and creeping
on very slowly. When he has approached near enough, he
thrusts forward a long thin stick like a fishing-rod, and touches
the bird with one end of it, on which there is a little lime; the
bird sticks to it, and then the man draws back the pole and secures
the animal.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span></p>
<p>In this way a great number of partridges are taken, with
snipes, woodcocks, pigeons, &c. I had two hoopoes given me
the other day. The Major who commands this station has four
elephants for the use of the troops under him, to carry their tents
when they are marching; and whenever we like it he lends us
one for a ride. On the back of the elephant is placed a large
pad, and on that is a thing like a great cradle, with two seats in
it. A man sits on the neck with his feet in stirrups of rope, and
a pointed piece of iron in his hand, which he presses behind the
elephant's ears to guide him. Another man runs by the side
and encourages the animal in Hindustanee. When we want to
get on his back, the man on the neck presses the iron rod on the
middle of the animal's head, and he kneels down; a ladder is immediately
brought, and we climb up into the seat, or houdah, as
it is called, and then the huge monster rises again. His pace is
very slow and very jolting. He is not allowed to pass over any
bridges, lest his weight should shake them down; he accordingly
goes through the water instead. Neither may he go where he is
likely to meet many horses, lest he should frighten them.</p>
<p>My costume here would make you smile. I wear thin shoes,
white stockings, white trowsers, a short black cassock reaching a
little below the knees, and a hat made of pith covered with black
merino—the crown is about four inches high, and the rim about
six or seven inches wide. This is my out-of-door dress. Indoors,
unless when any one calls, I wear a white jacket instead of
the cassock. I am without any waistcoat. At a dinner-party,
black silk socks, black trowsers, and my long black silk cassock.</p>
<p>The only coins in use at Midnapore are the pice and the
rupee; the pice is worth a farthing and a half, and the rupee
about two shillings. Another kind of money passes here, viz. a
little shell called a cowrie, of which 120 are worth a pice. At
Madras and Calcutta there are many other sorts.</p>
<p>The insects are a great nuisance here. If the candles were
not protected by a glass shade they would be instantly extinguished.
Thousands of insects of all sizes swarm, jumping and
flying about the lamps, of all colours, green, yellow, blue; and
many of them sting, whilst others smell most abominably.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span></p>
<p>Every morning the mollie, or gardener, brings in a basket of
vegetables for us to look at, and select what we shall require for
the day's consumption. The cold weather here begins about the
middle of October, generally on the 15th, and we are all looking
very anxiously for it; but by cold I mean only such a lower
degree of heat as will enable us to go out in the middle of the
day (provided we carry a great parasol), which we cannot do now.</p>
<div class="sidenote">DINNER COSTUME—NATIVE SERVANTS.</div>
<p>At a dinner-party every one brings his or her own table servant.
This assemblage has a very pretty appearance: the ladies
are all in white dresses and short sleeves, and the gentlemen in
white jackets and trowsers, except the Major and myself; he
wears a red jacket, and I a black cassock. Behind each chair
stands a dark-brown man with long black beard and mustachios,
dressed in a sort of white tunic and a white turban, with a
coloured sash wound several times round the waist. As it would
be the greatest mark of disrespect for a servant to appear in the
presence of his master with covered feet, they all leave their
shoes outside the door. After the meat is cleared away, before
the puddings are brought in, the servants go out and smoke for
five minutes. There is not a man, either Mussulman or Hindoo,
except of the very lowest caste, who would eat anything that
came from the table of a European. They would consider it a
degradation, and would not even drink out of anything we had
ever used, or touch what we had cooked. The Hindoos eat
only once a-day, unless on their grand feasts. Their food then is
boiled rice, with perhaps an onion and a little spice in it, which
they eat with their hands.</p>
<div class="sidenote">LANGUAGE.</div>
<p>The language of this country, though confessedly a compound
of two or three Eastern tongues, appears to me to have many
remains of what must have been the original language of man,
that is to say, those which must have existed from the very earliest
time bear a close propinquity to the words of other and later
languages. Several instances which came under my notice bear
out this opinion.</p>
<p>It is curious to observe how the different castes or ranks here
keep distinct, and it is this which renders so many servants
necessary. The man who lays the cloth would feel degraded by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span>
dusting a chair, and he who dusts the chair would rather leave
his place than dust the room. Again, two men of different castes
will neither eat, drink, nor sleep together. Their bed is a mere
mat, which explains well that saying of our Saviour, "Take up
thy bed and walk."</p>
<p>The other day my basin had not been emptied. I told the
carah of it, whose business it is to attend to my apartment, and he
went a hundred or more yards to call the matee, because it would
have been beneath his dignity to throw the water out into the
adjoining bath-room. The men here are a sadly idle set; they
make almost slaves of their wives. Early in the morning we may
see troops of women going out into the jungle, from which they
return in the evening with great fagots of wood; these fagots
are about twelve feet in length, and in the middle quite two in
thickness, and are carried on the head. The poor creatures are
obliged continually to stop and rest.</p>
<p>The higher classes of the natives wear a kind of loose white
gown, down to the knees, and very loose trowsers, also white embroidered
slippers, no stockings, and a white turban. The lower
classes wear nothing but a long white cloth tied round their
hips.</p>
<p>Every one here, both native and European, takes a cold bath
at least once a-day. When a native dies his body is burnt, and
to make the funeral pile every native keeps four or five large
trees growing in his garden. As soon as he dies, one, or two, or
three trees, according to the man's rank, are cut down and surrounded
with a great quantity of dry stubble, on which the body
is placed. Formerly, his wife was burnt alive at the same time.
This was called a sati. There are a great many tombs of holy
men about the country, and on these the people throw little
wooden images. There is one tomb here on which are placed
two large dumb-bells, and the people imagine that every Sunday
night the man who is buried there rises up and plays with them.
There is one very disagreeable custom here, which exists more or
less all over India; it is called dustoorie. Whenever anything
is bought, for every rupee that is paid the seller is obliged to
give the servant of the purchaser two pice; so that the more he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span>
has to buy, the better it is for the servant; and if a master were
to say he would not allow dustoorie, no native would enter his
service.</p>
<p>I have just been to look at the man who is making me some
white jackets. The women here never do any needlework. The
men sit down on the floor, and hold the work between the great
toe and the next.</p>
<div class="sidenote">DESTRUCTIVENESS OF THE WHITE ANT.</div>
<p>I was the other day in want of a sheet of pith, on which to
fasten some butterflies, and, going into my dressing-room, where
I knew I had left four pieces on a shelf only the day before, I
found them apparently in good condition; but, on taking them
up, discovered them to be only so much dust. I then examined
the other things upon the shelf, and found them to be in the
same state. This was the work of the white ant, which was
swarming about. I called the carah and sent him to the bazaar,
or the place where all the little shops are, and told him to procure
me sixteen pice worth of turpentine, and when it was
brought I spread it over the shelf, and, soaking into the wood, it
destroyed the ants. If let alone they would, in about two days,
have eaten the chest of drawers, all my clothes, and everything
in the room. I have just been engaged in catching with a green
net on the end of the bamboo a most beautiful swallow-tailed
butterfly, and in doing so frightened away a jackal, who was so
impertinent as to intrude into the compound in the middle of
the day.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Midnapore_November_11_1842" id="Midnapore_November_11_1842">Midnapore, November 11, 1842.</a></h2>
<p>A friend has just made me a present of a very small kind of
monkey, about nine inches high, of a light-brown colour. His
antics are often very amusing. I fasten him by a chain to a
thick pole in the compound, at the top of which is his house.
He will sometimes turn his waterpot upside down and sit on it
in the gravest possible manner. He will then perhaps stoop down
and gather a blade of grass, and examine it as attentively as
though he were inquiring to what species and genus it belonged.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span>
Perhaps by this time several large knowing-looking crows, something
like English magpies, will have collected round him,
holding their heads on one side and looking as if they were
listening very attentively to his lecture on botany. Presently
you would see the sly little monkey turn his eye to see how near
they are, and then with one bound he will catch hold of the
nearest crow by the neck; but the crow is the stronger of the
two and always gets away safe. These crows are as common as
sparrows and quite as tame, for they will hop into the verandah
and pick up anything the parrots drop. We have two parrots;
they are of a kind very common here; so I told a man to go out
and catch me a couple, as I wanted to teach them to talk. He
did so, and they are now getting very tame. I gave him a few
pice for his trouble. They are of a kind that I do not remember
ever to have seen in England. The upper mandible is red, the
lower black. From the lower mandible extends on each side a
broad black stripe, to where we suppose the ears to be; and
there is another black stripe from one eye to the other. These
stripes give the bird a very peculiar appearance. The upper
circle resembles a pair of tortoiseshell spectacles.</p>
<p>I had a young hyæna given to me, which I made every endeavour
to tame, giving him milk and food, but nevertheless as
soon as I approached he flew at me. As he has scarcely any
teeth I did not fear him, but took him in my arms, being careful
to keep a tight hold on his neck. He slept during the day, but
showed an inclination to go out at night, but, not being permitted
to do so, continued making the most extraordinary noises
resembling the sobbing of a child in pain. The servants were
all afraid of him. Having kept us awake that night, I resolved
the next to try him outside the house, and accordingly, fastening
him up, I gave him a box to sleep in. The next morning I
found he was dead. The servants declared he had been killed
by a pack of jackals, but I shrewdly suspected they themselves
to have been guilty.</p>
<p>The other day I caught one of those beautiful little squirrels
which I have before described. It is grey, with a broad yellow
stripe down each side. The body is about as big as my thumb,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span>
and the tail the size of my middle finger. I borrowed a common
squirrel's cage, but the little thing was so small that it immediately
struggled through the wires, and the mungoose, perceiving
it, killed and devoured it. A great many of them live in the
thatch of our house.</p>
<div class="sidenote">MUSK-RAT—MUNGOOSE.</div>
<p>The musk-rat is a small sharp-snouted animal, from which
musk may be extracted. The scent rising from it is overpowering.
All the houses here swarm with them, but the mungoose
has either killed or driven away all that were here, and our house
therefore is quite free from the smell. The mungoose is very
destructive. I just left the room for a few minutes, and while
absent it commenced demolishing some eggs which I had brought
in from the fowl-house: there were eight on the table; he had
broken five over my papers and then dipped his paws in the ink
and ran over the table. Whilst punishing him for this fault I
held him by the neck, but he nevertheless managed to give me a
severe scratch with his claws. He is a thorough beast of prey,
and will eat nothing but animal food except sugar.</p>
<div class="sidenote">COBRA DE CAPELLO.</div>
<p>The prawns here are most delicious, and many of them are as
large as a good-sized lobster. I was crossing my compound in
the dusk a few evenings ago, after feeding my fowls and ducks.
I walked slowly, thinking of England and my children, when I
happened suddenly to cast my eyes upon the ground. I started
back on perceiving within two paces of me the dreaded cobra de
capello—its head raised, its hood expanded, and manifesting every
sign of anger. Two, or at most three, steps more, and I should
have trodden upon it and received the fatal bite. Unfortunately
I had no stick in my hand; I called the servants to bring bamboos,
but by the time they came it had glided into its hole, and
I went home thanking the Supreme Being who had saved me
from the fearful danger. Since that time I have not been out
without a large bamboo in my hand, for, although I have stopped
up the hole, yet the cobra de capello is, no doubt, still in my
compound. The bite of this snake is most deadly.</p>
<p>During the last fortnight I have heard of three persons having
been killed by it in Midnapore. Two of them were hunters,
the other was one of the wives of the Rajah. She put her<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span>
hand into a cupboard to procure something, when a cobra, which
had concealed itself there, bit her. When a person is wounded
by this venomous reptile he generally expires within an hour.
The only possible cure, and that is an uncertain one, is to
swallow every few minutes a glass of brandy with some eau de
luce, or smelling-salts, dissolved in it, while a man stands near
beating you with a heavy whip. Or, instead of this, you may be
fastened to a carriage and be compelled to run as fast as possible.
The object is to keep you awake, for the danger of the bite consists
in the heavy lethargy it produces. The remedies applied,
however, are sure to bring on a violent fever, which frequently
proves fatal. Few diseases in this country last longer than an
hour or two. Fever, cholera, and inflammation of the liver, the
three great scourges of India, commonly prove fatal within from
two to twelve hours, so that no one can exist here without being
constantly reminded of the uncertainty of human life. It is
curious that I, who dreaded so greatly the reptiles of India,
should have been at once sent to the station where they most
abound, for there is probably no place in Bengal where serpents
and lizards are so plentiful. Our house is infested by numbers
of centipedes, which get on the chairs and on the clothes in a most
unpleasant manner. However, we have neither of us yet been
bitten.</p>
<p>I have not seen a scorpion alive. My wife and I were walking
in the compound the other day, when we saw a very large
snake looking at us through the hedge of aloes. It was of a light-brown,
and was, I think, five or six feet long.</p>
<p>The other day my servants brought me in a venomous snake
which they said they had killed in the compound; I took it up
by its tail and carried it into my wife's dressing-room to show it
to her. I laid it down on the floor, and soon it began to wriggle
away, and, raising its head, turned at us. Fortunately there was
a stick at hand, and, taking it up, I killed the animal with one blow.
So great is the dread of them here, that no one ever sleeps without
a light, lest, stepping out of bed at night, he should place
his foot upon some venomous creature; most people keep a long
bamboo in every room. We never put on our shoes without first<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span>
examining well to see that there is nothing alive in them. The
oil which we burn in the evening and at night is extracted from
the cocoa-nut and has a most agreeable smell. For this purpose
cocoa-nuts are brought from Ceylon and all the neighbouring
islands. This oil could not be used in England, because it congeals
into a sort of fat when the thermometer is at 64°.</p>
<div class="sidenote">YAMS—POTATOES.</div>
<p>We have a kind of root here which they call a yam, although
I do not think it is one. It is brown outside and white within;
about two feet long and thickest at the middle, where it is four
inches in diameter. This they boil and then fry into lumps; it
is exceedingly nice. Potatoes are scarce, dear, and bad, except
sweet ones, which I like; they are very stringy, and taste like
potatoes mixed with sugar.</p>
<div class="sidenote">BAMBOO.</div>
<p>I think I have described to you the graceful appearance of the
bamboo-tree, but it is its extreme usefulness that renders it so
precious. It is a sort of hollow strong cane, and serves for the
upright posts at the corners of the native houses and also for the
door-posts. To our own bungalows or thatched houses it forms
the rafters to support the thatch; it is used for scaffolding and
for ladders without any shaping or preparing. One joint of it
makes a very good bottle; a long piece of it, with one side cut
off and the stoppage at the joints cut away, makes a waterspout
or watercourse, or a thing for fowls to eat or drink out of. In
short, it would be tedious to enumerate the many uses to which it
is put.</p>
<p>I had the other day an instance of the extent to which servants
carry the system of doing each his own work and no one's else.
I had been feeding the parrots with a little rice and had spilt a
few grains of it upon the table. I called the barah, or furniture-cleaner:
he said it was the parrot's food, and therefore it was the
waiter's business to clean it up. I told him to do as he was bid,
but he would not, and then I said that if he did not I should discharge
him with a character for disobedience; this he preferred
to doing what he considered was not his own work, so I sent him
away at once.</p>
<p>None of my servants can speak a word of English, and I am
sometimes rather at a loss on this account; but I always keep a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span>
dictionary on the table, and I am rapidly acquiring a knowledge
of the Hindustanee language. There are no shops that Europeans
can go to, except at Calcutta. In the country, which is
called the Mofussil, a sort of pedlers come round with goods. I
offer them generally one-third of the price they name, and they
in most cases take it. The other day, my wife was making up
her accounts, and asked the kitmajar how much he had given for
a certain article; the man said, "Three rupees." My wife replied
that she did not think he had given so much; he answered,
"Yes, three rupees." She said, "Now, I don't believe you
gave more than two rupees;" to which his answer was, "Yes, I
gave two rupees." Still she did not credit him, and said,
"Now, I am sure you only gave one rupee;" and he replied,
"Yes, one rupee." And he was quite satisfied: and all this
time he answered as calmly as possible, and did not appear in the
least ashamed; and yet this man is one who is considered a very
good servant, and whom I believe to be as honest as any one
I have.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="November_12" id="November_12">November 12.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">EARTHQUAKE.</div>
<p>Last night, a little before ten o'clock, my wife was gone to
bed, and I was sitting up reading and writing. In this country,
you may know, the servants at each house, instead of having a
clock, strike a gong at every hour. It is a flat circular plate of
bell-metal, which, when struck with a wooden mallet, gives forth
a very loud ringing sound. Just before the gong struck ten, I
heard a noise like that of a buggy (or gig with a large head
to it to keep the sun off) approaching.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> I thought to myself,
"Why, there must be a party somewhere to-night;" at which I
wondered not a little, because every one asks the Padre Sahib to
their parties, and I had received no invitation. The next moment
the noise seemed to increase, and become like the motion of
a large heavy carriage. Almost immediately after, with a sound
like rolling thunder, the whole house rocked backwards and forwards,
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span>
while I was nearly thrown off the chair on which I was
sitting.</p>
<p>The rumbling continued, I should think, for about a minute
before the shock of the earthquake came, and for about a quarter
of a minute after, while the shock itself may have occupied about
ten minutes.</p>
<p>I was quite startled; and, proceeding to my wife's bed-room,
advised her to get up and put on something warm, lest we should
have to pass the night out of doors. I then went to the store-room,
and made the best provision I could for a bivouac: my
preparations were, however, needless, as the shock was not
repeated.</p>
<p>I can compare the motion to nothing so well as to the pitching
of a small boat in a short cross-sea, or where two tides meet one
another. My wife said her bed gave two distinct pitches up
and down. While I was making my preparations for departure
I heard a loud noise of crows, ducks, fowls, and all sorts of birds,
cawing, cackling, and screaming, as if they were very much
frightened. The natives all round started up and blew their
conchs (a sort of shell, which they use instead of a trumpet);
and this morning every one is talking about the earthquake.</p>
<div class="sidenote">POPULATION.</div>
<p>Speaking of the natives reminds me of the subject of the population
of India, which is very much exaggerated. It cannot
be compared, in proportion to the extent of the country, to that
of England. There are said to be 40,000 natives in Midnapore,
though I much doubt the fact; and then on every side, farther
than the eye can reach, extends a vast expanse of thick jungle
(that is, bushes growing so close together as to be altogether
impassable, and full of tigers, deer, leopards, buffaloes, elephants,
&c.); and as the same is the case throughout the whole of India,
I should think that nine-tenths of the country consists of thick,
close jungle, or enormous swamps. Here and there, amidst all
this, is found a small native village, composed of a few huts;
but the population in such places is probably not above one in
thirty square miles on the average; this is, of course, a mere
rough guess. The jungle-men, who are nearly black, though
not at all resembling the negro in feature, are said to be the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span>
original inhabitants of the country. Their religion is unknown,
and I believe they possess no written language. The people
were driven into the bushes by the lighter race of men, whom
many suppose to have been some of the ancient Egyptians, probably
not less than two or three thousand years ago. Amongst
this race sprang up, even subsequently to this, the religion, or
rather superstition, of Hindooism. Again, about seven or eight
hundred years ago, the whole country was overrun and conquered
by the Mohammedans. Seventy or eighty years ago we
obtained a firm footing in a small portion of the country. Not
long after, the Mahratta chiefs attacked the Mohammedans in
various places; the Mohammedans called upon us for assistance;
and thus we in time became possessors of almost the whole
country.</p>
<p>The greatest difficulty in the pronunciation of the language is
the letter <i>h</i>, which is always aspirated, and never pronounced as
it is in our <i>th</i>, and yet this letter often comes after a consonant.</p>
<p>The money in the Mofussil, or country, is a source of much
annoyance. If you want to change a ten-pound note, they give
you no gold, but 100 rupees; if you want change for a rupee,
they give you 64 pice; and if you change a pice, they give you
24 cowries. But as there are no shops, and all the people bring
their goods to the house, this does not signify much.</p>
<p>If you were to go to Midnapore, and to ask a native where
Acland Sahib lived (sahib means white gentleman), he would
not be able to tell you; but if you were to ask for the Padre
Sahib, he would immediately direct you to my house.</p>
<p>When I came here I was going to stay with the judge: I told
the palanquin-bearers to take me to his house, mentioning his
name, and we were carried to almost every house in the station;
until at last we met a European, who told the men it was the
judge sahib we wanted, and then they soon found the place. I
am called Padre Sahib; Mrs. Acland is Padre Sahib ke Mem,
or Padre Sahib's lady; a married woman, mem sahib; an
old maid is mem; and a young lady is bibi sahib, or white lady
baby.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span></p>
<div class="sidenote">EMPLOYMENT OF TIME.</div>
<p>The weather is now, comparatively speaking, delightful; the
thermometer is 76° in the middle of the day, and about 66° at
sunrise and early in the morning. I assure you we find it quite
chilly, and are obliged to walk very fast to get warm. Our hours
are now—up at six, feed the fowls, and walk till eight; bathe
and dress till nine, then breakfast; write, read, and work till
four, then dinner; feed the fowls and walk till half-past six; tea
at seven. My wife works and I read aloud till half-past eight;
backgammon or cribbage till half-past nine; then prayers, and
to bed. Sometimes, however, I have to go out and see my
parishioners between breakfast and dinner, and then I go in
my palanquin. One great disagreeable is, the constant change
of people.</p>
<p>The regiment that was here, of which the Major and his wife
were our chief friends, has just been ordered away, and a new
one is come in its place. The Captain of Engineers has just
offered to take us a trip to the mountains, fifty miles off, on
elephants. I do not know yet whether we shall go or not. The
historical name of my parish would be, the Ooriah district, or
the Oresta. Our time is six hours earlier than in England.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Midnapore_December_13_1842" id="Midnapore_December_13_1842">Midnapore, December 13, 1842.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">DEPARTURE FOR CUTTACK.</div>
<p>I am on the point of quitting this place for Cuttack. I have
sold the greater part of my furniture, as it is expensive to move;
the remainder is going forward on hackeries, or native carts. I
want six of these carts; about a dozen of them are come, and
there is now a crowd of native savages round the door, disputing
as to who shall go; and they were making so much noise that
I was compelled to go out and stop the cabal. I took a good
thick stick in my hand, as if I were about to beat them. I called
out "Choop!" (or silence) as loud as I could. I then explained
that I only wanted six hackeries. Then began a vociferation as
to whose were the best. "Choop!—will ye choop?" I roared
again. I then called the mollee, and desired him to turn out all<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span>
the bullocks, for they had unfastened those which drew the carts,
and let them all loose in the rice-ground in the compound, which
was just ready for cutting. This order I hallooed out loud
enough for the men to hear; and told him, as soon as he had
done that, to come to me for a crowbar to break to pieces all the
hackeries but six. This made them submit; and although they
still continued making a great chattering, yet they soon began
harnessing their bullocks. With these people we are obliged to
appear very severe. They despise us as being of no caste; and
were we not to be firm, they would imagine we were afraid of
them.</p>
<p>We are now engaged in packing up our things, and shall start
on the 25th, reach Balasore on the 28th, and remain there ten
days, and then three days' more travelling will bring me to my
head-quarters at Cuttack.</p>
<p>I have, with much trouble, endeavoured to persuade the people
here that they ought to build a church: the Mohammedans have
a splendid mosque, the Hindoos have a large temple, and yet we
have no consecrated building for the worship of the true God;
but, however, I hope this will be remedied. As I was passing
the mosque the other day, I saw the muezzin shouting out that
it was time for prayer, and stopping his ears with both hands,
that he might not hear the terrible noise which he himself was
making.</p>
<div class="sidenote">GOATS.</div>
<p>About a fortnight ago the judge went out shooting: he came
to a large hole under the root of a tree, and heard a loud growling.
He is a courageous man, so he was not afraid; but he
told an Indian, who was with him, to get behind the tree, and
then poke a long stick into the hole. Presently the growling
became very loud and savage, and then out jumped an enormous
bear, one of the most savage sort—the large black bear. The
judge was ready, and shot it when it came out. On examining
the hole, three young bears, only a few days old, were found.
He sent for some Indians, who carried the dead body, and also
the cubs, home, and then, as he knew that I was fond of animals,
he sent the three little ones to me. They are very ugly, and
cannot see yet. One of my goats had just had a kid, so I told<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span>
the cook to make the kid into soup, and I brought the goat to
the young bears. One man held the goat, another covered her
eyes with his hands, and a boy held up the cubs to suck. The
goat did not like it at all at first, but now she is quite contented,
almost as much so as if they were her own young ones. I have
given two of them away. In England you never taste goat's
milk: it is most delicious; far better, I think, than cow's milk:
we use it every day. Each goat, after the kid is taken from her,
gives about three-quarters of a pint a-day. The judge has promised
me a bottle full of the pure bear's grease.</p>
<p>Every one here knows that I am very fond of animals, and they
are all very kind in sending them to me. I received the other
day from a gentleman a present of a goat, which is quite as big
as a small pony. If I were to get on its back my feet would not
touch the ground; it is of a dark brown, and of the long-eared
Thibet kind.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="December_14" id="December_14">December 14.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">BIRDS'-NESTS.</div>
<p>I went out to tea last evening, and a lady gave me two nests
made of platted grass, into which the birds enter through a hole
at the bottom. They are about a yard long, and they hang
swinging from the branch of a tree to which they are fastened.
They are built in this form, in order to keep out the violent
rains, and to preserve the birds from the monkeys.</p>
<div class="sidenote">COST OF DRESS.</div>
<p>The commonest articles of dress in Calcutta are at least three
times as dear as they are in England. I bought a silk hat which
would have cost five shillings at home, and paid fourteen rupees
for it here; and some ribbon, which would have been threepence
a-yard in England, cost a rupee and a half here. Then on the
other hand many things are cheaper.</p>
<p>There has been no rain for two months, nor a cloud until the
last day or two; now the clouds will continue to increase for a
week, and then we shall have three days of rain, after that no
more till the middle of June, except about three tremendous
thunderstorms in April and May. The weather is now delightful:<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span>
the thermometer varies from 60° to 80°; but I am glad of cloth
clothes, and at night we have three blankets and a heavy counterpane.
At this time of the year we have peas, beans, &c., and
every one looks happy and cheerful, not healthy, for Europeans
are all of a deadly white, and most of them exceedingly fat.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="December_16" id="December_16">December 16.</a></h2>
<p>I was walking in the compound yesterday, and I saw something
black, shaped very much like a small lobster, except that
it had a pointed tail; and as soon as I went near it it turned its
tail over its head and tried to sting me. I managed to get him
into a bottle, which I filled with spirits.</p>
<p>The mungoose is very fond of serpents; he kills and eats them
with great rapidity, and then jumps into my wife's lap to ask for
some milk.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Balasore_Orissa_December_30_1842" id="Balasore_Orissa_December_30_1842">Balasore, Orissa, December 30, 1842.</a></h2>
<p>The ancient house in which I live here is situated, like the
rest of Balasore, on a large flat plain, extending north, south,
and west, as far as I can see. The vegetation is scanty, and the
trees are small. But turn towards the east and the eye is arrested
by a most magnificent sight. At the distance of about
seven miles rises quite abruptly from the plain a splendid range
of volcanic hills, about two thousand feet in height. Judging
from their appearance at this distance, they must be composed of
reddish lava without any grass, but here and there a stumpy
bush. I never saw anything to compare with them before. In
England our hills are always rounded at the top; but here there
are points and peaks and edges, as if you had been trying to cut
a piece of paper in zigzag lines.</p>
<p>About fifteen miles beyond these great hills tower a still
loftier range, lifting their deep-blue summits seven thousand feet<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span>
into the clouds, and forming a background for the nearer and
better-defined range.</p>
<p>On Monday we start with a picnic party and tents, &c., to
explore these hills. We shall probably be out on our expedition
for three or four days.</p>
<div class="sidenote">HILL OF THE LARGE WHITE ANT.</div>
<p>After standing gazing at these magnificent hills, I walked towards
what appeared to be the remains of some mud hut: it was
about five feet high, and in irregular blunt points at the top.
When I came down to it I tried to break off one of the long
bits, but it was too strong, and was as hard as a wall. However,
on the other side I found a smaller projection, which I broke off
by kicking against it, and found it full of round passages perforating
it in all directions, the smallest about the size of a quill,
the largest as big as my wrist. This was the large white ants'
hill. Immediately after I had broken a portion of it there
came a rush of the inhabitants from all the passages to see what
was the matter. They examined the parts broken, and then
some of them ran back. Presently a number more came, some
dragging forward the others until they got them quite to the
edge, when a bigger ant took hold of each of these prisoners and
bit him in the neck until he killed him. I suppose the prisoners
were those who had been on guard at that spot, or else those
who built that part, and so were punished for my fault. Soon,
however, they turned and attacked me, for I found many of
them on my clothes and experienced the smart of their bite.</p>
<p>I now walked forward, and the next thing I came to was a
human skull. In this part of the country wood is scarce, and
therefore, when any poor person dies, instead of burning his body,
they wait till evening, and then throw it out of doors, and by
the next morning the jackals and vultures have picked the bones
quite clean, and the ants then destroy all the fibres, whilst the
sun bleaches the bones. I have picked up several of these
skulls in the last few days; they appear very different from the
skull of an European, being smaller, and very much narrower
from ear to ear in proportion to the length from the eye to the
back of the head; the forehead also retreats much more. Presently
I came to two bamboo-trees; between them on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span>
ground was a pair of doves, much smaller than our English
ones, and of a bright reddish purple. They were walking about,
whilst out of one of the bamboo-trees poked the head of a great
snake, who was quietly watching them. I frightened away the
doves, as I guessed the long gentleman's intentions. It is of a
kind which does not hurt men, of a dirty-brown colour, about
seven feet long.</p>
<p>Turning towards the house again, I was struck by the very
beautiful plumage of a bird; its wings were striped transversely
with black and white; it was about the size of a blackbird, with
yellow neck and tail, and a very long head. It alighted on the
ground and opened a most beautiful round crest growing fore
and aft on its head, the colour of which, like the body, was an
orange yellow, but there was an edging of white and black. It
was the hoopoe. The only other striking thing I saw was a
great vulture, with its naked red head and its tattered-looking feathers,
puffing away at the top of our house, having most likely
stuffed with human flesh till he could hardly move; and when I
threw a stone at him, he hopped a little way along the roof and
grunted.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="January_2_1843" id="January_2_1843">January 2, 1843.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">NATIVE LEGEND.</div>
<p>Yesterday was New Year's day. I have just heard the origin
of these hills, and will put it down while I remember it. The
story is from one of the natives here.</p>
<p>"Many, many years ago there lived a giant in Ceylon, and
this giant fell in love with the daughter of another giant at
Lucknow, in Bengal, so he asked her father to let him marry
her. But he said No, as the other lived in a little island, and
was no real gentleman at all. Upon this Master Ceylon determined
that, as her father said No, he would take her without
leave, and off he started, seized the young lady, put her on his
shoulders, and carried her across to Ceylon. But when the papa
found that his daughter was gone, he got into a tremendous rage,
and determined to go and punish the Ceyloney. So off he hurried,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span>
until he came to the straits which separate the island from
the mainland. But when he tried to cross over, he found that
he was not quite so tall as the Ceylonese gentleman by a few
hundred yards, and that the water was too deep for him. So he
stood still, and he scratched his head and wiped his forehead
with his handkerchief, and thought and pondered what he should
do to get across and punish the wicked thief. At last an idea
struck him, and he trotted back all up India until he reached
the Himalaya mountains, and, snatching up two of the largest of
them, one in each hand, threw them into the straits, and thus
made them shallow enough for him to pass over. But as he
went along some of the rocks and earth slipped through his
fingers, for you may suppose his hands were rather full; and the
chains of hills which extend from Balasore for nearly three hundred
miles are the pieces which he dropped as he went along."
The tale does not inform us whether the giant's daughter was
restored to him.</p>
<div class="sidenote">NESTS OF WHITE ANTS.</div>
<p>I have not been up the hills to-day, because some of the party
were frightened at the number of bears and tigers which are said
to be there; but I am in hopes we shall go in a few days. I
have been looking about me a good deal lately, and have noticed
one very curious thing. The ground for five or six miles from
our house in one direction seems to be covered with mounds
of earth and small bushes; on examining these closely, however,
I find they are all the nests of white ants. The green ones are
those that are deserted, and over which the grass has grown—the
others are still inhabited. In the plain visible from my
window there must be many hundreds of thousands of these
hills, varying in height from three feet to ten or twelve, and
many of them six feet in diameter; and all of these are formed
by little insects no larger than the common English ant. One
part of their manner of building is most extraordinary: their
nests are always completely covered in, so that without kicking
them you cannot see a single ant inside; there are one or two
doors in different parts of the building, but they are seldom
used.</p>
<p>Their mode of building is as follows:—One day, perhaps, you<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span>
will perceive a single pinnacle of an ants' nest. You go and
see it one day, and you find it slightly raised, but curved, like a
headstone. So it increases daily until it reaches the size I have
described. It is like a man building a house—as if he made a
little closet with a roof on it, and then went inside and stayed
there, while the closet swelled and swelled until it became a
perfect house. At the foot of these ant-hills are a number of
large black ants on the watch for any straggling white ants,
which they kill and eat. These creatures abound in all our
houses, and run about the floors: they are about an inch in
length, and bite, but do not sting.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="January_3" id="January_3">January 3.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">MODE OF TRAVELLING.</div>
<p>I ought to give you some account of our voyage to this place.
We quitted Midnapore, after a hard week's packing, at nine
o'clock on Tuesday evening, December 27th. On the Monday
we went to dine and sleep at the house of the Captain of Engineers,
because our own was in such a condition from packing;
and after dinner on Tuesday at nine o'clock we entered our
horrible palanquin. I flatter myself that most of the people at
Midnapore were very sorry when we left. We had sixteen men
to carry us, two mussalchees, or men who carry mussals (torches
made of long strips of cotton bound tightly together and dipped
in oil), and two banghy-bearers, to carry each two tin boxes
with our clothes in them.</p>
<p>We soon got clear of the station of Midnapore, and then the
scene became most wild and romantic—a narrow road, bounded
on each side by an interminable jungle, or plain covered with
low bushes so thickly matted together as to afford only passage
to the deadly cobra, the snarling jackal, and the ravenous tiger.
On the road our own palanquins, one a hundred yards in front
of the other, carried by black men with merely a cloth round
their loins, the red glaring torches showing the others who ran
swiftly by their side, the banghy-bearers trying to keep up with
us, and all keeping up a loud monotonous sing-song tune, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span>
was varied occasionally by the shrill cry of the jackal, the
grinning snarl of the hyæna, or in the distance the deeper
roar of the tiger in search of his prey—and yet in the midst of
all this we both slept well, awakened only occasionally by the
plashing of the men through the fords of the river or the stopping
at a village to change bearers.</p>
<div class="sidenote">JELASORE.</div>
<p>In the latter case we were not detained an instant, the fresh
relays being in attendance with as much patience and regularity
as if they were horses waiting for a coach. Thus we travelled
on without interruption until we reached Danton, called Dantoon.
This was about nine o'clock in the morning. At this place
there is a dâk-bungalow—that is, a bungalow, or thatched house,
built by Government for the accommodation of travellers. In
Turkey it would be called a caravanserai. Here there is a man
with fire and water, but the traveller brings his own provisions,
wine, tea, bread, &c., in his palanquin, though he can generally
get eggs. We stayed here about two hours, and had some tea,
eggs, and biscuits, and no one who has not experienced it can
have any idea of the comfort of a short rest after a night of dâk
travelling. Although you lie down in the palanquin, yet every
limb gets cramped, and the incessant jolting is most painful to
the bones, even of one so fat as I am, and I have increased sadly
in bulk since I came to India. Off we started again a little
before eleven, and at about one we reached the house of an
Indigo-planter at Jelasore. I never saw him before, but he
received us most hospitably. His wife was rejoiced to see us—she
had not seen a European lady for seventeen months, for
their nearest neighbours live at a distance of forty miles, or
about twelve hours' journey. Here we spent a most agreeable
day, delighted with everything. In the evening I took a walk
with our kind host to see an old fort.</p>
<p>It must have been once very strong, and was probably built
by the Mahrattas as a depôt for plunder when they overran this
part of the country. In the inner court is a three-domed building,
resembling, except in ornament, a mosque. The walls are
several feet thick, built of hard stone strongly clamped together
with iron. High up in the interior of the centre dome are four<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span>
niches, which I hope to explore on some future occasion. The
inner enclosure is surrounded by a strong stone wall and a deep
moat now dry. Beyond this is a level space of a few yards in
width, and then again, in another part of the wall, there are signs
of a narrow sallyport, and opposite to this, between the trenches,
as if it might have been reached by a drawbridge, is a very high
mound of earth. Over the sallyport there has evidently been
a strong tower, and above the central entrance into the interior
building is a stone with an inscription. It appears very perfect,
but no one can read it; it is neither Ooriah, Hindustanee, Sanscrit,
nor Persian. I have called this a Mahratta fort, because
that is the general opinion amongst Europeans. I myself doubt
it, and from its age and appearance think it much more likely
that it was erected by the Moguls when they first invaded the
country; how I wished, as I stood there, that I could have
seen it as it was in former ages, with its garrison, and its horsemen,
and its despotic governor. The next time I go I shall
provide myself with some paper covered with charcoal, and try
to take an impression of the inscription. We were in some fear,
during our examination, lest we should be interrupted by the
natives, as they have very recently got the idea that it was once
inhabited by one of their gods, and therefore consider it a sacred
place. I fancied, as well as the darkness would allow me to see,
that far back in one of the niches I could dimly perceive a
coloured statue of a female. Before we went to see this ruin
my kind host took me into his garden to show me the India-rubber
tree. We scraped the bark with a piece of rough glass,
and a white sticky juice oozed out; this we took between our
fingers and squeezed until it became a sort of brown gluey substance.
In this state it is used by the native hunters as birdlime.
After being exposed to the air for some time it gradually hardens
and becomes what we call India-rubber. A large part of this
garden was planted with arrow-root.</p>
<div class="sidenote">ATTACK BY A TIGER.</div>
<p>At half-past eight we again entered the palanquin, and started
for Balasore, where we arrived at half-past seven the next morning,
and were set down at the Circuit-house—a large house belonging
to Government, and kept for the convenience of officers,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span>
including the chaplain, who have to travel the district every
year. I can conceive nothing more wild than the dâk travelling;
but I have described it all, except that in each palanquin
we carry a brace of loaded pistols. I will relate an instance,
and a very remarkable one, of the advantage of carrying loaded
pistols in this country. Major M., now the second in command
at Midnapore, was one day out with some friends, sitting
quietly under the shade of a bank, when suddenly a tiger sprang
out of a jungle, seized the Major by the leg, threw him over his
shoulders, and trotted off with him. The Major's companions
raised a loud shout; but the beast was hungry, and did not choose
to be frightened from his meal. The Major, however, fortunately
had a brace of loaded pistols in his belt; he pulled out one, and
fired it at the head of the tiger as it carried him off. It flashed
in the pan; and almost in despair he seized the other, and shot
the tiger dead on the spot. The only injury the Major received
was a broken and lacerated leg, which has rendered him in some
measure a cripple ever since. This story I know to be true,
both from the Major himself and from those who were with
him.</p>
<div class="sidenote">A HUNGRY BEAR.</div>
<p>A small party went out for a day's pleasure a little while ago
from Midnapore. They went to the Ghape, a most beautiful
spot at about five miles' distance. After rambling about they
went into an old house which is there, with an excellent appetite
for dinner. The "cook-room" was about a hundred yards from
the house. They waited and waited, and no dinner came; so at
last one of the gentlemen went to see the cause of the delay,
when lo! as if watching for the dinner, there was an enormous
black bear sitting half-way between the house and the cook-room.
They shouted, and tried to drive him away; but no,
master Bruin only growled; he did not see why he should not
have something to eat. None of the party had guns; and they
say that they were kept waiting five hours without their dinner
before the beast's patience was exhausted and he stalked off. We
were, as I before said, set down at the "Circuit-house." This
I expected to have found tolerably furnished; but, alas! when
we went in, we found nothing but one mat, three tables, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span>
two chairs. We then had the palanquins taken into a bed-room,
and determined to make ourselves as comfortable as we could.
I then went out to make calls—for in India the new comers call
upon the old residents, reversing the English custom. This did
not take me long, as the whole station consists of the magistrate
and his wife, the excise-officer and his daughter, the postmaster,
doctor, and deputy-magistrate.</p>
<p>At night we slept as well as we could in the palanquins, but
were kept awake the greater part of the time by the mosquitoes,
and the next morning our hands and faces were most beautifully
spotted over with their bites. On this the second day one or
two people called; and when the excise-officer and his daughter
came in, the deficiency in furniture was at once made manifest.
There were Mr. and Miss B., Mrs. Acland, and I, with only two
chairs amongst us, and these, like all the chairs in India, were
arm-chairs, so that we could not even manage by sitting two on
one chair; so Miss B. and my wife had the two chairs, and
Mr. B. and I sat upon the table—rather a high one it was—so
that our feet dangled about half-way between our seat and the
floor. However, there was one great advantage in this evidence
of poverty, for Mr. B., as soon as he got home, sent us a large
bedstead, some chairs, and other things necessary to make us
comfortable.</p>
<div class="sidenote">PALANQUIN-BEARERS' SONGS.</div>
<p>I ought to mention the chant of the palanquin-bearers; though
they keep to the same sing-song tune, yet they generally invent
the words as they go along. I will give a sample, as well as I
could make it out, of what my bearers sang the other night; I
have tried to render their words as nearly as I could into
English, so as to preserve the metre. The poetry must be improved.
A palkee means a palanquin: it is the Hindustanee
word, though one also generally used in conversation. Each
line is sung in a different voice; in the following, for instance,
the first line would be sung in the usual voice, the second very
high, the third in a sort of gruff tone:—</p>
<div class="cpoem1"><div class="stanza">
<span class="i0">"Oh, what a heavy bag!<br /></span>
<span class="i0">No; it's an elephant:<br /></span>
<span class="i0">He is an awful weight.<br /></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span>
<span class="i0">Let's throw his palkee down—<br /></span>
<span class="i0">Let's set him in the mud—<br /></span>
<span class="i0">Let's leave him to his fate.<br /></span>
<span class="i0">No, for he'll be angry then;<br /></span>
<span class="i0">Ay, and he will beat us then<br /></span>
<span class="i2">With a thick stick.<br /></span>
<span class="i0">Then let's make haste and get along,<br /></span>
<span class="i2">Jump along quick."<br /></span>
</div></div>
<p>And then, suiting the action to the word, off they set in a
nasty jog-trot which rattled every bone in my body, keeping
chorus all the time of "jump along quick, jump along quick,"
until they were obliged to stop for laughing. The second
sample is from the men who carried Mrs. Acland, and is in quite a
different metre. I must tell you that "cubbadar" means "take
care," and "baba" (pronounced "barba") means "young
lady:"—</p>
<p class="center">1.</p>
<div class="cpoem1"><div class="stanza">
<span class="i0">"She's not heavy,<br /></span>
<span class="i2">Cubbadar!<br /></span>
<span class="i0">Little baba,<br /></span>
<span class="i2">Cubbadar!<br /></span>
<span class="i0">Carry her swiftly,<br /></span>
<span class="i2">Cubbadar!<br /></span>
<span class="i0">Pretty baba,<br /></span>
<span class="i2">Cubbadar!<br /></span>
<span class="i2">Cubbadar!<br /></span>
<span class="i2">Cubbadar!<br /></span>
</div></div>
<p class="center">2.</p>
<div class="cpoem1"><div class="stanza">
<span class="i0">"Trim the torches,<br /></span>
<span class="i2">Cubbadar!<br /></span>
<span class="i0">For the road's rough,<br /></span>
<span class="i2">Cubbadar!<br /></span>
<span class="i0">Here the bridge is,<br /></span>
<span class="i2">Cubbadar!<br /></span>
<span class="i0">Pass it swiftly,<br /></span>
<span class="i2">Cubbadar!<br /></span>
<span class="i2">Cubbadar!<br /></span>
<span class="i2">Cubbadar!<br /></span>
</div></div>
<p class="center">3.</p>
<div class="cpoem1"><div class="stanza">
<span class="i0">"Carry her gently,<br /></span>
<span class="i2">Cubbadar!<br /></span>
<span class="i0">Little baba,<br /></span>
<span class="i2">Cubbadar!<br /></span>
<span class="i0">Sing so cheerily,<br /></span>
<span class="i2">Cubbadar!<br /></span>
<span class="i0">Pretty baba,<br /></span>
<span class="i2">Cubbadar!<br /></span>
<span class="i2">Cubbadar!<br /></span>
<span class="i2">Cubbadar!"<br /></span>
</div></div>
<p>At this place very little wood is to be found—not enough for
the people to use for their fires during what is called the cold
weather. The women accordingly go out, and instead of gathering
wood they pick up cowdung. This they knead into flat
round cakes about the size of pancakes, dry them in the sun, and
they burn almost as well as the turf or peat which is used in
England, though it is a great nuisance, for the thick smoke it
emits has a very unpleasant smell.</p>
<p>The other day we saw a most beautiful sight on the nearer
hills. Some of the jungle (or wild) men had set fire to the grass
and bushes on the side. The fire spread, shooting rapidly from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span>
one part to another, and as it was late in the evening it produced
a most magnificent scene. The object in doing this was to get
rid of the snakes, bears, and tigers, in order that the people
might go and cut down the few large trees that grew on the
hill.</p>
<p>Last night, as my wife and I were having a game of casino,
we heard a low growl in the compound, and directly afterwards a
screaming amongst the fowls, and a hallooing of the servants (we
carry fowls wherever we go, or we should be almost starved);
the only words I could distinguish were "Bargh! bargh!" A
tiger! a tiger! I jumped up; but on examination it proved to
be a false alarm. It was only a large wild animal, something
resembling our fox, only with shorter legs and longer body,
which had attacked the fowls; and I had not so much presence
of mind as the Major I told you of, for when I ran out into the
compound to see what was the matter I quite forgot to take my
pistols, so the thief got safely off; but I have now secured my
fowls more effectually.</p>
<p>Just before we left Midnapore, a large flock of birds, flying in
regular order, amounting, I should think, to several thousands,
passed over the place. They made a great noise, and I thought
they were wild geese; but I hear they were a bird called the
cyris, which stands about five feet high, and is not a water-bird.</p>
<div class="sidenote">INDIAN SCAVENGERS.</div>
<p>I was much amused this afternoon whilst I was sitting in the
verandah with watching the crows. I think I have described
them to you. They are very like the carrion-crow in England,
but rather smaller. There is a law which imposes a heavy fine
upon any one who kills them; this is very right, for they carry
away a quantity of refuse and filth which would otherwise
putrefy and cause disease; but the consequence is, that they are
more numerous and more impudent than the sparrows in England.
I threw out the bones of a fowl we had had for dinner;
presently about fifty crows came down within a few feet of
me, and began to peck away; every now and then a bird,
which people here call a kite, would swoop down, and send
all the crows cawing away. As soon as it rose, down came<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span>
the crows again; presently one of them flew away with a
large bone in his beak; the kite saw it, and was off in pursuit.
Backwards and forwards, up and down the poor crow
dodged, but its pursuer followed it, and had nearly reached it,
when the pursued thought it best to drop the bone. The sharp
eye of the kite perceived this, and, although he was some distance
above at the time, yet he made a dart down and caught the bone
in his mouth before it had reached the ground. I have lately
seen some kites like the others in all respects, except that the
body and head are white, the wings being still brown; these are
rather larger than the others.</p>
<p>Every sort of filth here is thrown out into the fields, and in a
very few hours the jackals and crows clear it away, assisted by
the pariah dogs. These are the only scavengers in the country.</p>
<p>The rain began on the 24th of December, and we had
occasional showers for two days; but every one is disappointed
by the season. Instead of having nice cool weather in January,
the hot weather has completely set in, although it does not in
general begin before the middle of February. The thermometer
in the shade is at this moment above 80°, although this is considered
a cool place.</p>
<p>For my dinner yesterday I had some peacock-cutlets, which
the surgeon of the station had sent me.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Cuttack_February_2_1843" id="Cuttack_February_2_1843">Cuttack, February 2, 1843.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">JOURNEY TO CUTTACK.</div>
<p>I must return now, and give you some account of how we
started for this place from Balasore. On Sunday the 8th of
January we had service in the morning; and at four in the
afternoon we entered our palkees to proceed to Cuttack, a distance
of 103 miles.</p>
<p>Throughout the journey not a single European is to be met
with, but the traveller is entirely in the power of the natives,
excepting such assistance as he can derive from his pistols and a
thick stick. The danger however is not great. The Ooriahs,
as well as the Bengalese, are a small and cowardly race; so<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span>
much so, indeed, that the East India Company will not allow
them to be enlisted as soldiers. A Bengalee of five feet six is
quite a tall man, and in shape he is as delicate and effeminate as
a European lady.</p>
<p>We jogged on most merrily until about half-past five the next
morning, when I was awakened by hearing "Sahib, Sahib;"
to which I sleepily answered by inquiring what my servant
wanted. He told me we were arrived at Barripore, about fifty
miles from Balasore, and they wanted to know whether I meant
to go to the dâk-bungalow. I said Yes: for we had determined
to remain at Barripore all day, as it is not safe to travel in the
sun even in January. To the bungalow we accordingly went;
where we eat, drank, and read books which we had brought with
us, and amused ourselves as well as we could, until four in the
afternoon, when off we started again. I only remember one adventure
which happened there. My wife wanted to wash her
hands, and took up a "gomlah" to pour out some water; suddenly
she cried out that she was stung. I ran to see what it
was, and, examining the gomlah, found she had been bitten by a
hornet. In comparison with other insects the sting of this
creature is an object of very little dread. Her hand, however,
swelled a little, and for three or four hours she suffered a
good deal of pain all up her arm, but still it was fortunately only a
hornet. At four o'clock in the afternoon we again started, and
arrived at our own house in Cuttack at about eight the next
morning.</p>
<p>It is customary at the end of each stage to make the palkees a
present of four annas (or sixpence) for each palkee. During one
of the stages between Barripore and Cuttack the men did not
go so quickly as I thought they should have done; so when we
changed men I only gave them four annas for the two palkees,
telling them why I did so. The consequence was, that during
the next stage the men not only went much faster, but invented a
new song, the whole burthen of which was, "He has only given
them four annas because they went so slowly! Let us make
haste and go along quickly, and then we shall get eight annas
and have a good supper."</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span></p>
<div class="sidenote">FRUIT-TREES.</div>
<p>My house here belongs to Government, and I am in great
hope they will allow me to occupy it free of rent; it is the best
in the cantonment, the compound contains about twenty acres,
and there are in it several beautiful clumps of trees. In front
of the house is a fine group of cedars; in one part is a hill,
on the top of which are several trees: I do not yet know their
names, but their foliage is of a bright green, more bright than
any ever seen in England. We have an orchard containing
mangoes, custard-apples, waunpearls, mulberries, guavas, &c.
&c., with one chur-tree—that is, the true India-rubber tree,
and, I believe, the only one in this part of India; that at Jelasore
is a very inferior sort.</p>
<div class="sidenote">ALLIGATORS.</div>
<p>We have a grand house in the compound, and have, besides, a
flower-garden with orange and lemon trees, &c. A river three
miles broad flows near, and a ghaut, or landing-place, for pilgrims
proceeding to Juggernat'h, a Hindu holy temple. We
can see in the distance a range of hills, rising abruptly from
the other side of the river, which are a continuation of those at
Balasore. On the sands are storks, wild-geese, and all sorts of
aquatic birds; even all the tanks here abound with alligators.
The other day one of the officers was returning home from mess;
it was dark, and in his compound he fell over something which
proved to be a large alligator, making its way from the river to
a tank, probably with a view of there depositing her eggs.
About three weeks ago a poor woman went to fetch water from
one of these places, on the surface of which were weeds; she
was engaged in clearing a space with her hands, when one of
these animals, with its jaws open, caught her arm and stripped
off all the flesh below the elbow. She was compelled to have
her arm amputated.</p>
<div class="sidenote">HUMAN REMAINS.</div>
<p>I saw to-day a large hyæna gliding across the compound. I
suppose he smelt some dead body on the beach. The Juggernat'h
pilgrims come from very great distances, and many die on
the road. In my compound alone, if I were to collect the
skulls, bones, &c., I think I could make up eight or ten human
skeletons. The other evening one of my servants came to me,
and said, "If you please, sir, there is a dead pilgrim in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span>
compound, and the matee wants to know if he shall throw it
away;"—that is, throw it down on the bank for the jackals, &c.
I would not let him do this, but sent notice to the commanding
officer, who sent for the body, and, I suppose, threw it away.
About two hours after this my wife was gone to bed, and I was
sitting reading, when I felt something on my foot; I examined,
and in my stocking found a large centipede. I contrived to kill
him without being stung.</p>
<p>The Government allow me a guard of soldiers; and a sentry,
with musket and bayonet, parades up and down the front
verandah; they also allow three servants for the use of the
church. The soldiers present arms to me and salute; and when
any one comes at night, they call out, "Hookum dar?" to which
the answer is "Exprin:" these phrases are corruptions of the
English. The church is very nicely fitted up; there is a door
leading into it from my study, which serves on Sundays as a
vestry. The greatest inconvenience here—as in all the churches
in India—consists in the punkahs. Over the pulpit, altar, and
reading-desk are three small punkahs, and over the body of the
building three very large ones, extending over the whole
breadth. These are kept constantly in motion, and they sadly
intercept the voice of whoever is preaching. The house, being a
bungalow, has, of course, only the ground-floor; the roof is a
thick thatch, extending over the verandahs, which in England
would be called porticoes, and these are supported on thick
white columns. The ceilings in a bungalow are nothing but
large sheets of canvass whitewashed. As in India people are
glad to keep all the doors within the house open, there is placed
between the different rooms a framework covered with crimson
or green silk, which the natives call a half-door. The beds are
nine or ten feet wide, with short posts, on which you may hang
mosquito-curtains, which are a sort of large sacks made of
gauze, without any opening. They are supported on the posts
and tucked in closely all round, so as to prevent the mosquitoes
from stinging the people in bed; the only covering, generally, is
a sheet, and the gentleman's sleeping-dress is a flannel jacket and
a pair of calico drawers with feet to them, to keep off the mosquitoes<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span>
if they should by chance get inside the curtains. Some
people also throw a gauze over the face for the same purpose.
There are no feather-beds, but the mattresses are generally
stuffed with the fibres from the outside rind of the cocoa-nut,
called "coir.". The usual plan is to leave the glass doors
(French windows you would call them) all open, but to shut the
Venetian blinds, and to have a punkah over your head going all
night. At about six in the morning all the glass doors are
closed, and kept shut all day to exclude the hot air. If, however,
there should be any wind, one of them is opened and a
tattie hung up in its place; the tattie is a thick mat the size of
the doorway, made of the sweet-scented cuscus-grass; this is
kept constantly wetted on the outside.</p>
<div class="sidenote">THE MOHURRUN—POSITION OF CUTTACK.</div>
<p>From the 1st to the 11th of February is the Mohammedan
festival of the Mohurrun, which is a grand scene. Every night
drums beat, and dancing and merrymaking are kept up among
the men only, as the Mohammedan women are kept in seclusion.
In the compound the other day I saw about a dozen men, one of
them thumping away on the horrible native drum called a
"tomtom." Two others held by heavy chains a tall sepoy (this
word means a native soldier, and ought to be spelt "sepahi"),
who was covered all over with a dress of calico, fitting tight to
the skin—so much so that at first I thought he was naked. The
calico was painted in alternate stripes of red and yellow, and he
had two little yellow horns. I imagine it must have been intended
to represent the devil conquered and chained by Mohammed.
He made a number of antics, and ended, as all these people do,
in begging for a few pice; I gave him three annas. The station
of Cuttack is situated on a small island formed by the confluence
of two rivers; during the hot weather this island becomes a
peninsula joined to the main land by a narrow neck of sand.
The advantage of this insular position is that, whilst we abound
in alligators, we are free from bears and tigers, neither have we
so many pariah-dogs as there were about Midnapore. The
opposite bank swarms with tigers, and with a small telescope
we can sometimes see them coming down to drink by moonlight.
On the opposite bank, all round the island, except to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span>
the south, rise the rugged hills which dropped from Vishna's
fingers. There is one great comfort here: the sea is about
fifty miles from us, in a straight line towards the south, and
every evening, at about five o'clock, a deliciously cool sea-breeze
sets in from that direction. About seven it becomes quite
gusty, and continues to blow until about one in the morning.
It is necessary to have lived in such a climate as this to know
how truly luxurious such evenings are after the intense heat of
the day, which is now rapidly increasing; the thermometer in
the shade is about 82° or 84°, and this is only the beginning of
February.</p>
<div class="sidenote">FORT OF CUTTACK.</div>
<p>A walk round the compound early in the morning is quite delightful.
On each tree are three or four of the beautiful little
striped squirrels, whilst in the branches are many paroquets,
parrots, &c. All about on the ground are numbers of a bird of
a bright green, with a red breast and head, about the size of a
love-bird, and very much like it, except that the beak is straight
and rather long, and from the centre of the tail project two long
straight feathers of a reddish green. There is also the beautiful
mango-bird with its bright yellow plumage and its glossy black
head. Occasionally may be seen an alligator lying asleep, with
his head and shoulders on the bank and the rest of his body in
the water, while a lung-bird has just alighted on his head and
twitters to its mate by the side of the tank. They are about the
size of the amadavad, but shaped like the swallow, and their
plumage is alternately a glossy black or a deep crimson, according
as the sun shines on it. Then there is the India-rubber
tree, and skulls bleached in the sun. I saw one with its little
teeth in the front that had not yet pierced the gums: they are
the second teeth, and the skull, which is very small, must have
belonged to a mere child. The house belongs to Government,
and there are therefore three wells in the compound; but the
water is not good. The plan for watering this large orchard and
garden is as follows:—From the edge of the wall to the cistern
is a wooden trough, into which the water is thrown as it is drawn
from the well. By this means the cistern is filled. A brick
gutter runs from the cistern and separates it into so many<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span>
branches; round each bed and every here and there are little
openings which let the water run out on the bed. Suppose they
only want to water one, they just take up a little earth in a
spade and stop up the other branches of the gutter. Whenever
it crosses a path, it is carried underneath by means of a small
drain. The muller takes two long bamboos, having at one end
a heavy weight and at the other a large gomlah suspended by a
cord. One muller pulls one cord downward to make the gomlah
reach the water, the other fills the gomlah, and, letting go the
cord at the other end of the bamboo, draws it up. This work
proceeds with great rapidity, and so the cistern gets filled and the
garden watered. At a very short distance from our garden
stand the remains of a fort. When the English took Cuttack
this fort was garrisoned by the Mahrattas. They, however, soon
gave it up. The angles of the bastion were rectangles, which
prevents it being so strong as if they had been obtuse angles, for
then the balls would have had a tendency to glance off; but its
great strength consists in the ditch, which is about a hundred or a
hundred and fifty yards wide, with the perpendicular side faced
with bricks, full of water and swarming with alligators. The
water is most foul and offensive, but the medical men say that, if
they were to empty and drain it, it would make for many months
a most fearful pestilence. The natives have offered us 30,000<i>l.</i>
to be allowed to drain it, because they say there is a vast quantity
of treasure in it.</p>
<div class="sidenote">ORIGIN OF THE MOHURRUN.</div>
<p>I have just learned the origin of the Mohurrun. It is a festival,
or rather commemoration of the death of Hussein and Houssein,
the sons of Ali, Mohammed's nephew. These two were
pursued towards the desert by their enemies; they took shelter
in a well, and a spider immediately wove a web across the top.
Their enemies came up, and, seeing the web, thought that
Houssein and Hussein could not be in the well. However, one
of them looking down observed a number of lizards all hastening
up the sides, so then they thought there must be some one at the
bottom who frightened the lizards, and, searching, they got up
the two brothers and killed them. It is to commemorate this
fact that they have instituted the festival of the Mohurrun, and in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span>
consequence the Mohammedans all reverence the spider, while
they kill the lizard.</p>
<p>The fort here is of great extent, comprising, I should think,
at least 100 acres. The walls have been demolished, and a great
portion of the interior is now occupied by a botanical garden
and a racket-court.</p>
<p>The winds have risen to-day with tumultuous fury, as though
they had been long confined and in one fearful moment had
burst their prison-house. There is something very grand, though
awful, in these furious tempest-bursts within the tropics. A few
minutes back not a leaf rustled; now the trees are waving to and
fro, small branches are whirled into the air, and leaves and rubbish
are carried far away by the revolving eddies of almost a
hurricane. I could scarcely see the river through the volumes
of sand which are tossing about mixed with the spray.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Monday_February_13_1843" id="Monday_February_13_1843">Monday, February 13, 1843.</a></h2>
<p>I am going to cross the river into the jungle in a day or two,
with two other gentlemen. Our object is to plan a new village
for some native Christians. We each take a gun and a brace of
pistols, and have no doubt that we shall bring home some venison.
We shall also look out as we go along for two tigers, which have
recently committed terrible depredations about Condah, whither
we are going. The other day they carried off two men.</p>
<p>Gold-dust is mixed with the sand of the river, but the quantity
is very small, and is therefore not considered worth the
trouble and expense of collecting.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Cuttack_March_4_1843" id="Cuttack_March_4_1843">Cuttack, March 4, 1843.</a></h2>
<p>One of my servants came to me this morning, and told me
that there was a boa-constrictor in the garden. I immediately
desired all the men to take long bamboos, and we sallied forth<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span>
to attack the monster. By the time we got to the place, however,
he had retreated into his hole in the ground; we had
therefore to dig him out, and as soon as he appeared all the men
struck him with their bamboos until they killed him. It proved
not to be a boa, but a yellow snake about seven feet long, and
was not venomous. We killed it, however, lest it might endanger
the poultry-yard.</p>
<div class="sidenote">EXCURSION TO CHOGGA.</div>
<p>On Wednesday the 15th of February we started on our trip—myself
and Mr. L., a missionary: Captain W. was not able to
accompany us on account of the parade, but was to join us in
the evening. On Tuesday afternoon we got our guns in readiness,
and sent off some camp furniture, viz. a bedstead, table,
&c., which fold up so as to be easily portable. My bed, food,
clothes, &c., were carried by two men, each of whom was to receive
two annas, that is three pence, a-day. Chogga, and not
Condah, is the name of the place to which we were going, and
it would be impossible to obtain anything there to eat except
what we shot ourselves.</p>
<p>At four o'clock on Wednesday morning Mr. L. came to my
house, and we took some coffee, eggs, and toast, and then set off,
my companion on a tall white horse and I on a little native
pony, both of us dressed entirely in white. I had with me a
bearer, a kitmajar, and a syce. Mr. L. had also a bearer, a cooly,
and a syce, with several coolies carrying provisions. The syces
were only to accompany us as far as the river, and then take the
horses back; the others carried our guns, pistols, powder, hunting
knives, which are very necessary both to kill everything that
is wounded, and also to defend ourselves if thrown down by an
elk, tiger, &c. It was necessary that we should cross the river
about ten miles from my house, so off we trotted followed by
our train. Everything was perfectly still, the moon just setting,
and a cold damp fog hanging over the whole island. For the
first half-mile we got along very well. We had then to turn
into the bed of the river, now dwindled to a narrow stream. Our
course lay over a deep bed of loose sand something like that at
Weston-super-Mare, only much worse, our horses' feet sinking
at every step five or six inches; the poor animals could not<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span>
move quicker than a trot. As the moon set, and the fog closed
around us, the scene became one of utter desolation: the narrow
pathway, if you can call it a pathway, winding so as to avoid
the deeper sands and quicksands, did not permit us riding two
abreast. Far ahead, magnified by the mist, I could just see the
tall figure of Mr. L. and his white steed; behind I could hear
a low chattering, and now and then one of the black servants
would emerge from the fog and then vanish again as suddenly as
he had appeared. From time to time arose a shrill cry from
some one who had wandered from the path, answered as shrilly
by the other men. As the fog thickened everything disappeared.
The path was barely discernible, and I almost wished myself at
home. However I trusted to the sagacity of my sure-footed
little pony, and he carried me safely over the sand-hills and
through the hollows for about three-quarters of an hour, when
I heard a shout in front, announcing that Mr. L. had reached
the water. I soon came up with him. We waited till our servants
joined us, then dismounted, gave our horses to the syces
with orders to be at the same place at six o'clock on Thursday
evening, and embarked in a large boat, which, to render it water-tight,
or rather to keep it afloat, was filled up to the seat with
bushes and brambles trodden into a compact mass.</p>
<p>The boatmen told us that two nights before, as three carts
were going along the path to Chogga, a tiger had sprung out and
carried off the man in the centre cart, and that a few days earlier
two men had been carried away from the village itself. The
other side of the river is a steep bank without sand, and by
the time we reached it the day was just breaking, of which, to
tell the truth, I was by no means sorry.</p>
<div class="sidenote">SPORTING.</div>
<p>On the bank we found the coolies whom we had sent forward
the evening before, and who had waited there for us, being
afraid to proceed through the jungle until they had the protection
of the sahibs. There we took our guns, &c., into our own
hands, girded on our belts, in which were thrust our long hunting
knives or daggers and our pistols, letting our servants carry
our powder-flasks, shot-belts, &c. This is done in order to be
able to load with greater rapidity, the servant holding the shot,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span>
wad, cap, &c., in readiness. He also carries a heavy ramrod
with a round knob at the top, as the drawing the ramrod from
the gun, returning it, and hammering away with it at the
powder, which you must do on account of its lightness, might
frequently cause delay that might be fatal. Most people, for
the sake of safety, use double-barrelled guns; mine was, however,
only single, but the barrel was long enough for two.</p>
<p>At last off we started along the regular path to Chogga. The
change was most extraordinary; the fog had already cleared
away; we were walking along a narrow winding path cut
through the jungle. On each side of us extended as far as the
eye could reach a vast plain covered with laurels and shrubs of
a bright green, interspersed here and there with large flowers of
a brilliant crimson or scarlet, and more rarely with trees of a
stunted growth, on which numbers of little tiny doves were cooing
their greeting to the sun. The bushes, which we call low
jungle, grow to four or five feet in height, and so thickly that it
is impossible to pass through them, except where a path has
been cut, or where a natural glade or opening occurs. We
walked on looking out anxiously for some opening, as we knew
we should find nothing worth firing at in the open plain. Suddenly,
on turning an angle in the path, we saw at the distance of
about a quarter of a mile on the right a clear space with a few
large trees in it. Amid the branches sat fifteen or twenty pea-fowl,
and on the open glade were as many more feeding. Shortly
afterwards we came to a smaller one, which enabled us to separate,
so that we might approach the pea-fowl in different directions;
however we could not get within shot, which we much regretted.</p>
<p>But I own I was not quite so eager in pushing through the
jungle as I should have been the next day; it was quite novel
to me, and I could not help thinking every now and then of the
dreaded cobra or the scarcely less dreaded tiger. Indeed, of the
last I had a fearful reminder before I rejoined Mr. L.</p>
<p>In a small space of clear ground I came suddenly upon the
skeleton of a man, evidently lately killed, for much of the flesh
was still adhering to the bones. Probably it was the poor
driver of whom we had heard. I had quite lost sight of Mr.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span>
L., but presently heard him shout from some distance behind
me. I made my way towards him, and soon reached a small
paddy-field (rice-field). Here was a small bull of a very dark
colour, who did not seem at all pleased with our intrusion: he
looked at us for a minute, and then came galloping towards us,
shaking his head and tail in his anger. My two servants called
out that it was a wild cow, and crouched down behind me. I
felt a little nervous, but faced the animal, and drew a pistol
from my belt; however, as he came near, I saw a small piece
of cord fastened to one of his horns, and therefore knew it was
not an "unner" or wild cow. I desired the men to shout, and
myself did the same, running towards the animal and waving
my hat. He stopped a moment hesitating, and then, as I
rushed forward, he threw up his tail in the air and scampered
off, very much to my relief.</p>
<p>Mr. L. now came up, and we proceeded on our road. Presently
one of the men who was a little in advance stopped and
pointed to a tree at a little distance. Mr. L. primed his gun
and fired, and down dropped a fine hen. Wild hens abound in
the jungles, and are excellent eating, possessing a slight flavour
of game.</p>
<p>Soon after we came to a spot of ground where we beheld a
number of quails. I fired and killed two. Again we went on,
but met with no further adventure until we came to Chogga.
The last mile and a half of our journey lay through paddy-fields
with the stubble still on them. The heat was intense,
and by the time we reached our destination I was thoroughly
tired.</p>
<p>Chogga is a small native village surrounded by jungle, standing
about seven or eight miles from the river. It does not
belong to the English, but is in the territory of one of our tributary
rajahs. Mr. L. has a bungalow there, if such it can be
called, consisting as it does of a single room about sixteen feet
square, built of mud, and thatched with rice-straw. He has
made many converts here, and is about to erect a Christian village
about his own bungalow, which is half a mile from Chogga
itself, and well situated on a small spot of rising ground. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span>
appearance and manner of these wild, naked, yet Christian
savages, was to me deeply interesting.</p>
<p>As soon as we arrived, a number of natives, both men and
women, crowded about us. Many of them were Christians,
though in dress they adhered to their old habits. Mr. L. at
once took off everything but his trowsers, and after some hesitation
I did the same. After this we had breakfast and then lay
down on our camp beds and rested for two or three hours.
About one I felt hungry, so went out and shot a few doves,
which abound on every tree.</p>
<div class="sidenote">SPORTING.</div>
<p>About half-past three we collected as many men as possible
and went out to beat the jungle, through which Mr. L. and
myself worked our way until we came to a small open space.
There one of us posted himself; the other went on until he found
another similar spot, where he also stationed himself. As soon as
the shikarree who was with us saw where we were ready, he stole
out of the jungle and placed the twenty-five men in a large
semicircle, our positions being the centre, and the radius about
half a mile. As soon as they were all stationed, at a signal they
began to roar and groan and make the most frightful noises,
beating the bushes with their long bamboos, and pushing through
the jungle towards the open space where we were placed. This
was in a high jungle, and really the scene on such an occasion
is most exciting. You stand on a small space of fifteen
or twenty yards in diameter, bounded on every side by lofty
trees and thick underwood, your gun in your hand, your man
behind you holding the next charge in readiness. In every
quarter the shrieks and yells of the beaters are heard; presently
there is a whirr in the air, and a peacock flies through the open
space above your head. Bang goes the gun, off runs one of the
men to pick up the bird; load again! quick! hark! What a
rush in the bushes! There it comes! An elk or stag, shot
but not killed; and a man rushes out and cuts the animal's
throat.</p>
<p>An alarm of "Tiger!" was now given, but it proved false, as
nothing but a wild cat darted over the glade. Shouts again
rend the air, and a magnificent red peacock, with a deep green<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span>
tail and neck of gold, flies over our heads, his long tail streaming
behind him, and the brown hen at his side. The opening above
our heads was small, and an immediate fire was necessary: I
fired and missed him. The beaters now approached nearer and
nearer, shouting, and their dark forms soon became visible
gliding one by one out of the jungle. Nothing more was to be
found there; we accordingly moved on, and presently were
beckoned to by the shikarree. He pressed his finger to his lips
and whispered "Choop! choop!" and, pointing down a narrow
opening in the jungle, showed us a large leopard, beautifully
spotted, lying apparently asleep. While loading our guns the
animal awoke, and was stealing off just as we fired and hit him,
though he contrived to crawl off. The next day, however, we
found the body, as the arrow was poisoned. The skin is valuable.
The shikarree, who proudly bore off the body, would
suffer no one to assist him; but that same man would not
carry home the merest trifle from the bazaar, but must be
followed by a coolie.</p>
<p>Captain W. soon met us, and we returned home to dinner,
after which we sallied out by moonlight to seek some deer, but
were unsuccessful.</p>
<div class="sidenote">CONVERTS AND "INQUIRERS."</div>
<p>The next morning, rising at four, after a cup of coffee we
sallied into the jungle again, but obtained nothing but a few
fowls. Captain W. now left us on his return home, and after
breakfast a number of native Christians assembled, as this was
the morning appointed for talking to them. They all squatted
down on the floor, the men on one side and the women on the
other. Mr. L., who is thoroughly conversant with the Oorial
language, now entered into conversation with them, asking them
questions and hearing all they had to say. They appear to have
a very good knowledge of true religion, and to be very earnest
and sincere. It was most interesting to see them all sitting so
quietly with their eyes fixed on Mr. L.'s face, never attempting
to interrupt either him or one another, but speaking one at a
time in a low reverent tone of voice. When asked a question
they would pause a moment or two in deep thought before they
answered. After a little time one or two inquirers came in,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span>
that is, men who are not yet converted, but are inquiring about
Christianity, or arguing concerning it and comparing it with their
own religion. These sat down and behaved themselves in the
same decorous manner as the actual Christians. Mr. L. very
judiciously encouraged the converts to argue with the inquirers,
and it was most pleasing to observe the perfect mildness and the
restrained gestures of both parties when talking on so holy a
subject, every eye fixed upon the two disputants, and when a
pause occurred some other convert gently putting in a word in
support of the holy truth.</p>
<p><i>Inquirer.</i> "You say God gave you the Bible, I say God
gave us the Shasters. The religion that is good for the white
man is not good for the black. God is good, and has given
us each a religion proper to ourselves. I say your religion is
good and comes from God; why will you not say the same of our
Shasters?"</p>
<p><i>Convert.</i> "God gave white men the Bible because he is very
good, and he told them to go and teach it to every one, because
he wishes every one to be good and happy, and to go to the
happy country of heaven when they die; but the Shasters do
not come from God."</p>
<p><i>I.</i> "How do you know that?"</p>
<p><i>C.</i> "Listen, brother. Brummah (God) is good, is he not?"</p>
<p><i>I.</i> "Yes."</p>
<p><i>C.</i> "Should not you like to go to Brummah?"</p>
<p><i>I.</i> "Yes."</p>
<p><i>C.</i> "Do not the Shasters of your religion teach you so?"</p>
<p><i>I.</i> "Ha! you are very sly. No; but our religion is good
for us now. By and bye Vishnoo will come again, and then he
will perhaps give us a Bible."</p>
<p><i>C.</i> "Why not take the Christian Bible and Christian Brummah
now?"</p>
<p><i>I.</i> "Then I should lose my caste, my wife will leave me,
my children will go away, my brother will not smoke with
me, my hut will be empty, and the Brahmins will curse
me."</p>
<p><i>C.</i> "If the Brahmins curse you, God is stronger than they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span>
are, and he will bless you; if your wife and children run away,
Jesus will make you happy in heaven; if your brother will not
smoke with you, the great God will give you his peace."</p>
<p><i>I.</i> "Well, I will see. Lend me the book; I will read it and
show it to the Brahmins. How soon shall you be here again,
sahib?"</p>
<p><i>Mr. L.</i> "In about ten days."</p>
<p><i>I.</i> "Good: I will see you again."</p>
<p>This is a mere epitome of the conversation, but may furnish
some idea of the mode of argument pursued. Whenever the
convert brought forward a good argument, or came to a convincing
point, it was curious to see the countenance of the
Christians. They had been watching their champion with the
greatest interest, looking more like dark statues than human
beings, so perfectly still did they sit, except when a mother
pressed her infant to her bosom to keep it quiet. Suddenly, as
they saw the drift of what was said more clearly, their white
eyes would dance amid their dark skins, and one or two of
them would smile and utter gently the emphatic word "Ha!"
(yes).</p>
<p>A nice-looking young woman brought her baby to show it.
It was only two months old, and had not yet been baptized.
Poor woman! I won her heart completely by taking it from her
and kissing it. Mr. L. seemed a little surprised at my doing
so, but both the mother and her husband were delighted. She
asked me to name her child. Mr. L. wished it to be a scriptural
name. I accordingly gave it the first that came into my
head, which was "Benjamin." It was interesting to watch the
mother's face as I named the child, she had apparently never
heard the name before, and there was much amusement
amongst them, all trying to pronounce it; they could not quite
manage it, but, as the mother carried the little one out, several
of the men patted its cheek and smiled, and said very slowly
Bend-za-min. There were to have been four adults baptized on
this day, but one of them came in the morning and said that his
wife declared she would not live with a Christian, that she had
taken her children and all his fortune, consisting of one rupee<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span>
and two pice, and had gone away to her brother's house. Mr.
L. advised the man to go and reason with her, which he did, and
we afterwards heard that she had returned with him on condition
that he would not become a Christian.</p>
<p>The people have literally given up father, mother, wife,
children, friends, and home as soon as they become followers of
Jesus. They are looked upon as utterly degraded; and the tribe
to which they belong has to pay a sum of money to the Brahmins
before they can be freed from the stain which attaches to them
in consequence of the pollution.</p>
<p>Mr. L. preached in the afternoon, and in the evening the
Christians again met, when he addressed them a discourse in the
midst of a tremendous thunderstorm.</p>
<div class="sidenote">RETURN TO CUTTACK.</div>
<p>When we rose the next morning at four o'clock we found that
the rain had been so heavy during the night that we could get
no fuel to make a fire: our provisions, having been neglected, were
all spoiled by the rain, excepting a small piece of thick pie-crust;
our beer we had exhausted the evening before; so after a scanty
meal we started on our way home. We shot a peacock and fowl
upon the road along with three snipes, and arrived at Cuttack
about half-past eight on Friday morning.</p>
<div class="sidenote">COMET.</div>
<p>I have just witnessed a magnificent sight; during the last
month we have had such weather as the oldest inhabitant cannot
recollect ever to have seen before at this time of the year. It is
generally in February and March very hot and very dry. For
the last month we have had almost incessant rain, with violent
thunderstorms. The days are comparatively cool, and at night
I am glad of two blankets. Rumours of an approaching famine
began to float abroad, but at length the mystery was solved.
About half-past six I thought I observed a curiously shaped
long cloud, and as the sun went down and the twilight deepened
it did not alter its appearance, but at about a quarter to seven
proved to be a magnificent comet. The nucleus was plainly
visible even with the naked eye, and equal in brightness to a
small star. The tail was at least 45° in length, and inclined
from W.S.W. to E.S.E. Had it been perpendicular it would
have reached from the horizon half way up over our heads, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span>
whole distance from the horizon to the zenith being 90°. The
breadth of the extremity of the tail was about 2½°, and the
posterior half was divided longitudinally by a dark line. The
colour was that of a pale moonlight, but it would no doubt
have appeared much more red if the moon had not been shining
brightly at the time. There has been no comet equal to this in
brilliancy and the length of the tail since the year 1759. I
have hardly any books to refer to, but my idea is, that it is the
same comet which appeared in 1264 and 1556, and was expected
back in 1848. If so, its period of revolution is nearly 300
years. Its light was intense, being almost equal to the moon
in brilliancy. The natives say it will burn the earth; they call
it "jherra tarn," or "burnt star."</p>
<p>The weather is most remarkable. We have incessant rain,
with thunder and lightning every evening, and the clouds are
too heavy to allow us to see the comet. The houses require
fresh thatching every year. The lightning we have here I
have never seen equalled in England; each flash spreads over
one quarter of the visible heavens, whilst the roaring, or rather
the deafening rattle, of the thunder is incessant. The comet
re-appeared last night, though hardly so brilliant as it was a
week ago.</p>
<p>I was calling upon the judge of Cuttack the other day, and
his wife told me that a few nights before she went up stairs at
twelve o'clock to see her little girl, who had not been quite
well. On the floor of the room she saw what she thought was a
piece of ribbon, and stooped to pick it up, when a cobra raised
its head and expanded its hood and hissed at her in anger. She
called the servants with their bamboos, and they soon killed it,
but it was a great mercy that she had not touched it.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Cuttack_April_13_1843" id="Cuttack_April_13_1843">Cuttack, April 13, 1843.</a></h2>
<p>The other evening the mhator came to ask me for the key to
unlock the fowl-house door, as one of the hens was loose. I<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span>
told him to bring a light, and then went across the compound.
The padlock with which the door is fastened passes through a
chain and eye at the top of the door. I raised my hand to
unlock it, when the mhator, who had the lantern, called out,
"Sahib, sahib, samp!" (Sir, sir, a snake!) I looked, and on
the very chain which I was on the point of touching was a snake.
I immediately called the men to bring bamboos, and they soon
killed it. On examining it we found it to be one of that
sort whose bite is always fatal, so that the person bitten never
lives more than half an hour, and there would be no time for
the doctor to come. How thankful I should be to God for my
escape! I suspect that the snake was the cobra manilla, but am
not sure. It was about two feet and a half long, small head,
back dark green or nearly black, with all the way along it transverse
yellow stripes.</p>
<div class="sidenote">HINDU FESTIVAL.</div>
<p>About three weeks ago was a poojah, or Hindu festival, of
which I forget the name. About nine o'clock in the evening of
the principal day four sepoys came to my house with the subadar
major's compliments, and he would be glad if I would do them
the honour to go and see the samam or show (the subadar major
is the principal native officer in a regiment). I had refused them
once or twice before, therefore this evening I sent my compliments
and I would be there in a few minutes. When I got to
the lines or houses of the sepoys I found a magnificent tent about
two hundred feet long, into which I was ushered with much
ceremony.</p>
<p>The scene was most interesting. At the upper end there were
a few European officers, while down each side were ranged three
or four rows of dark sepoys seated on their hams, which is the
favourite position among the natives. The tent was lighted by
a number of flaming torches, which threw their red light upon the
swarthy faces of about seven or eight hundred gigantic up-country
sepoys. The whole centre of the tent was clear for the evolutions
of the nautch-girls (dancing girls): of these, who were
generally young and tolerably good-looking, there were several
parties of four or five. All those of one party held each other
by the hand, and kept dancing backward and forward with a sort<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span>
of regular motion, and singing in a peculiar cadence. The song
was an invocation of blessing on those who happened to be opposite
them at the time, and every now and then they would
separate to point with their hands to those who were designated
in the verse. The light danced upon the spangles with which
their dresses were covered, whilst innumerable little bells jingled
on their arms and ankles.</p>
<p>When I entered the subadar major immediately came to me
with a long-necked brazen vessel, from which he sprinkled over
my clothes a scent extracted from the sandal-wood. He then
poured some into his hand and rubbed my face and whiskers with
it. This they call anointing. He then presented me with two
packets of spices wrapped up in sweet-scented leaves.</p>
<p>As soon as he retired a party of nautch-girls came up, and,
after singing a song in my praise and blessing me, suddenly
separated and each one threw over me a quantity of crimson
powder. In a minute my face and clothes were of a brilliant
red; and wherever I had been anointed the powder stuck like
paint. Every one was served in the same manner, and a pretty
set we must have appeared: this is the chief fun of the festival.
During the three or four days that it lasts almost every native
that you meet has more or less of this red powder (called akbeer)
on his body or dress. Even my monkey, which is a sacred
animal with the Hindus, I found covered with it every morning.
I did not stay long at the tomasa, but was glad that I had seen it:
however, the cassock I had on was spoiled, not by the powder, for
that I managed to brush off, but by the anointing, which has left
in it so powerful a scent that it is not wearable.</p>
<div class="sidenote">CHENA POOJAH.</div>
<p>Last Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday was the Chena poojah,
or swinging festival. Upright poles are fixed in the earth, and
at the top of each is another pole which revolves upon the first.
The religious devotees are said to suspend themselves to one end
of the revolving pole by iron hooks stuck into their flesh, and
are then whirled round and round by a number of men. Many
of these mistaken men are said to die in consequence of the
tortures they endure.</p>
<p>At this festival it is also reported that other devotees lie on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span>
their stomachs whilst the priests press sharp knives into them
until they pin them to the ground, and that this does not always
kill them; but that when it does they consider they shall go to
Brummah, their God, and that the deity will be pleased with
such suffering. I am told they never utter a groan; but I would
not go to see them, though there are strong doubts whether it be
not a deception.</p>
<div class="sidenote">ELEPHANT-RIDING.</div>
<p>I now often go out with Captain W. before breakfast. An
account of one morning will suffice. I was called at half-past
three; dressed, and had some coffee, bread and butter, and an egg.
At half-past four Captain W. and Lieutenant H. called for me on
an elephant. I gave my gunpowder, &c. to two of my men to
carry. The great animal then knelt down. He had no howdah,
as that is not necessary, except for ladies. The only clothing on
the elephant is a thick pad or cushion, covered with leather, which
extends over the whole of the back. He knelt, and I climbed up
in the usual manner; that is, by standing on his hind foot, then
catching hold of a rope which hangs down from his pad, and scrambling
up as well as one can. The mahout then told the elephant
to get up; and off we started, half sitting half lying on the pad,
and the servants, with the guns, &c., walking behind. It seems a
fearful height, and for the first few miles I could not help thinking
of the danger of a fall. However, one gets accustomed to such
things.</p>
<p>The elephant carried us bravely over the loose sands, and down
to a ford in the river. In crossing the stream he went more cautiously,
seeming to feel each place before he put his foot down, as
if he were afraid of getting into a quicksand. Once or twice,
when the water was deep, I thought he would have been obliged
to swim; but I was wrong: though it would not have mattered if
he had; we should have been quite safe on his back.</p>
<p>After crossing the sand on the other side we went through some
paddy-fields and jungle towards a jheel (or marsh), which I had
mentioned as containing a great number of ducks. I had been
there previously on foot with Mr. L. When we reached the jheel
a heavy fog came on, and Captain W. therefore proposed that we
should go on farther into the jungle, in hopes of its clearing up,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span>
when we should find some hares. You must remember that in
India, where we get nothing whatever but mutton and fowls, and
where we cannot buy even these, everything in the shape of meat
is a treat, if not a necessary.</p>
<p>On we went; the fog cleared up; we got down in a jungle of
low brushwood, interspersed with several open spaces. We found
some men taking charge of a herd of buffaloes: for two pice each
they agreed to assist our servants in beating the bushes, and we
were not long before we started several hares. I only shot one;
the others were more fortunate.</p>
<p>At half-past seven we started on our way back. As we passed
the jheel I shot a widgeon. At half-past eight got home, had a
cold bath, and enjoyed my breakfast; and at dinner was very
glad to have the hare and widgeon, for the expense of two
pice. I often go out this way. The elephant belongs to the
regiment which is stationed here. The exercise before breakfast
is most healthy. One time we came upon a place in the
midst of the jungle which I intend to visit again in the cold
weather, when I shall have more time to examine it.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="April_15_1843" id="April_15_1843">April 15, 1843.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">FURNITURE.</div>
<p>I will now endeavour to give you an idea of some of our arrangements.
We have moved to the other side of the house in order to
have our bed-room to the west; because the sea-breeze, which
blows every night, is a south-west wind. The room in which I
am sitting was my wife's dressing-room; the one I use is fifty feet
long. Dressing-rooms are absolutely necessary in this country,
because nothing is put into the sleeping apartment except the bed,
because of the mosquitoes, which harbour in swarms wherever they
can find shelter. The bed is never placed against the wall, but
always in the middle of the room; and the feet are placed in pans
of water, to prevent the white ants, centipedes, &c. from paying
you a visit during the night.</p>
<p>The room I am now in has one French window opening into the
verandah in front, another towards the church, a door opening<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span>
into the next room, and another into the godown or store-room.
All these windows and doors are now open, and I am sitting as
near the centre as I can, to catch what little breeze there is, for
the weather is fearfully hot; the thermometer at noon about 90°
in-doors. It is now eleven in the evening, and my wife is gone to
bed. The floor, which is of cement (wooden floors are never used
here on account of the white ant), is covered with a curious sort
of matting, made of the leaves of the date-tree. We always use
mats instead of carpets in India, because they are much cooler.
The walls and the ceilings are whitewashed, the universal substitute
for paper or paint in the Mofussil. When I say the ceiling,
I mean the ceiling-cloths, which are great sheets of canvas covering
the tops of the rooms, and fastened up with cords.</p>
<p>Over my head swings a punkah or fan, about eighteen feet long
and three wide, made of canvas stretched on a wooden frame, and
also whitewashed. This hangs from the ceiling, or rather from
some bamboos placed upon the ceiling. Suspended from the lower
edge of the punkah is a sort of full flounce of white calico circling
along the whole length. The punkah is swung backwards and
forwards over my head by means of a long rope pulled by a bearer
sitting in the verandah. This man is now fast asleep, but still he
continues to pull the rope, and so he would do for hours if I required
it.</p>
<p>The furniture of the room consists of a table, a sideboard, and
a large screen of common cloth, stretched on a frame of sissoo-wood
(a sort of coarse rose-wood). It is about seven feet high
and seven across, and is placed before the door of the garden.
On the sideboard stands a flat candlestick, with a glass shade to
keep the insects from the flame. The candle is wax; we cannot
use tallow for two reasons: the climate of India is so hot that the
candles would not remain upright, and the sheep here have very
little fat upon them. On the table are two Indian table-lamps.
I hardly know how to describe them. The lower part is like an
upright candlestick, on which is placed a glass cup half filled with
water, the other half with cocoa-nut oil. In the bottom is a
little bit of lead with two thin cotton wicks in it, which reach a
little above the surface of the oil. These are alight. Over the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span>
whole is a large inverted bell-glass to keep off the insects, which
at present swarm around. Every minute I hear the mosquitoes
buzzing about my ears; then they settle on my face, and on my
clothes, through which they are enabled to bite with ease. This
keeps me in a continued fidget.</p>
<p>There is also an incessant whistling all around from what we
call crickets, though they are somewhat different from those in
England. A number of large grasshoppers, about two inches
long, of a light green, are hopping about on the table, and occasionally
on my paper. On the wall are several long-tailed lizards:
they are only slightly venomous; and, though extremely ugly, we
are always glad to see them, because they eat the mosquitoes.
Round the ceiling are circling three large bats, which my mungoose,
sitting in a corner, keeps watching. Should one fall, he
would seize and devour him in an instant. A wild cat came
through the room just now, and took a peep at me; but the
mungoose growled, and it ran way. It was small; but it has
been very destructive in the poultry-yard.</p>
<div class="sidenote">OLD CUTTACK.</div>
<p>But I must now return to what I was telling. The place which
we came upon in the jungle is called Old Cuttack; and it deserves
the name, for I do not suppose it has been inhabited for the last
thousand years. It appears from what little I saw of it to be
a most wonderful place, and certainly proves that the population
in the olden times must have been very numerous, and far
advanced in mechanical arts. It consists of a deep ravine, the
sides of which are composed of a dark rock of extreme hardness,
and containing a great quantity of iron. On one side it has been
made perfectly smooth, although certainly not less than seventy
feet in height: on the other are numerous steps and staircases,
cut out of the solid rock. The stone does not seem to have been
broken off and then chiselled smooth, but it appears as if the steps
had been cut out in solid pieces.</p>
<p>On the summit are the remains of houses built of large blocks,
all perfectly smooth, saving from the effects of time and weather.
Scattered about are heaps of rock, as if collected for building.
At a little distance on the banks of the river is a sort of seawall,
which I have not yet seen, but in which, they tell me, many of
the masses of rock are sixteen or eighteen feet long.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span></p>
<p>All this appears doubly wonderful when you remember that
the natives now, almost naked, build their houses of mud, without
windows, and with a miserable thatch; that their fireplaces are
nothing but little holes in the ground; and that in most respects
they are absolute savages. Either they have very much degenerated,
or, which is more probable, the race which built these
mighty works is swept away.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="April_17_1843" id="April_17_1843">April 17, 1843.</a></h2>
<p>I was in doubt concerning the Chena Poojah, but it appears
that the hooks are fastened to a cord, which cuts into the body,
and literally causes the blood to flow in streams. They say also
that it is the victims themselves that pass the spears into their
bodies, and not the priests.</p>
<div class="sidenote">THE COTTON-TREE.</div>
<p>I may here mention that my compound and garden formerly
belonged to a General Carpenter, and he planted and sowed many
very rare plants—some from China, from America, and from the
islands in the Pacific. There are three trees of a very particular
sort, of which I very much wish to know the name. They are
generally called the cotton-tree, although altogether different
from the ordinary cotton-plant, and I suspect they come from
America. The tree is about thirty-five or forty feet in height,
not many branches, and a very smooth bark. I cannot describe
the leaf, for as yet it is not out; but it has borne flowers and fruit
since I have been here; of course, therefore, these were before the
leaves. The flower, of a brilliant red, is in appearance half-way
between a tulip and a tiger-lily; it grows from buds in the thick
branches, and is about twice the size of the latter flower. The
blossom gives place to a pod about four or five inches in length,
and in the form of a sphere drawn out at both ends. The interior
of the pod is divided longitudinally into four segments: the whole
contains a great number of black seeds buried in a soft silky cotton.
I intend to stuff some pillows with it: I think it will be as soft
as down. The fibres are said to be too short to form cloth; but
I think if they had this tree in England they would manage to use
it, and the cloth would resemble very soft silk.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span></p>
<h2><a name="Juggernath_May_1843" id="Juggernath_May_1843">Juggernat'h, May, 1843.</a></h2>
<p>The first account I received of the Chena Poojah was correct.
The hooks are passed through the muscles on each side the spine:
for several days previously the muscles are rubbed and beaten in
order to harden them. At the festival they frequently run
pieces of iron through the tongue. The victims belong to the
lowest castes, and generally swing and torture themselves as
proxies for the Brahmins who have made a vow.</p>
<p>This place is marked Juggernat'h on the maps, although properly
that is only the name of the idol in the temple. The town
itself is called Pooree, or the City of Cities.</p>
<div class="sidenote">POOREE.</div>
<p>I left Cuttack on Thursday, April 20, and after one night's
dâk arrived here, the distance being about forty-eight miles.
I went to the Circuit-house, a large unfurnished residence, appropriated
by Government to the use of those officers who go on
circuit through the district. However, Mr. B., the magistrate
and principal person here, would not allow me to remain there,
but insisted upon my coming and living at his house, and sending
at once for my wife to come and join me. This I gladly did. Mrs.
Acland discharged most of our servants, and came down here;
so she has the benefit of living at Pooree, and at the same time of
saving money, for the month's wages of the servants discharged
will more than pay for her journey. We have a bed-room, sitting
and dressing apartments, and two bath-rooms to ourselves;
and we breakfast, dine, &c., with Mr. and Mrs. B.</p>
<p>It is difficult to imagine the delight of coming to such a place
as Pooree. At Cuttack we are obliged to keep every door and
window shut, in order to exclude the hot air. We close them at
six in the morning and open them at seven in the evening. One
doorway is fitted with a framework, covered with matting made
of scented grass. This is called a tatty, and is kept all day
thoroughly wet, in order to cool the room by evaporation, the
punkah continually fanning over head; but in spite of all this
the heat is fearful, and still increasing; the thermometer stood
in-doors at 103°.</p>
<p>At Pooree, forty-eight miles from Cuttack, we have no punkahs,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span>
no tatties; all the windows wide open, the waves rolling
up close to the houses, a delicious sea-breeze all day, the thermometer
never yet above 85°; not a mosquito to be seen, and no
insects but a few English flies. Excepting among the mountains,
Pooree is perhaps the coolest place in India, and I am considered
most fortunate in having it in my district.</p>
<p>The coming here is a renewal of life and strength. When we
are down on the sands in the evening, we might quite fancy ourselves
in England again; and I assure you that at five o'clock
in the afternoon, by the sea-side, we are glad to walk fast in
order to keep ourselves warm. This is the state of Pooree at
present. After the rains, that is, in October and November, it
becomes extremely hot and very unhealthy; for then the sea-breeze
ceases and the land-wind sets in, passing in its course over the
dead bodies of hundreds of pilgrims.</p>
<p>The most conspicuous object here is the temple of Juggernat'h,
to which devotees come from every part of India. It is
an immense pile of massive buildings. There are at times as many
as one hundred thousand pilgrims here at once. No European is
allowed to enter even the court.</p>
<div class="sidenote">DANGER OF BATHING.</div>
<p>The sea is most magnificent. The beach is composed entirely
of sand, something like that at Weston-super-Mare; but there is
only a few yards' difference between high and low water. There
is an incessant surf extending almost to the horizon—one line
behind another of enormous breakers. Some people used occasionally
to bathe, but the surf rendered it very dangerous, and
at last one of them had a leg carried away by a shark, since
which every one is afraid; we therefore have salt water brought
up to the house.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Cuttack_August_7_1843" id="Cuttack_August_7_1843">Cuttack, August 7, 1843.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">MOFUSSIL SOCIETY—MORNING VISITS.</div>
<p>I must now give an account of Mofussil society. We will
suppose a married couple going to a new station,—as, for instance,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span>
my wife and myself coming to Cuttack. Well, we arrive
wretched enough about eight o'clock in the morning, after a long
dâk journey. All that day we are engaged in setting things to
rights. The next morning I order my carriage, and go out to
make my calls; for in India, unlike England, the stranger calls
first. The hours for calling are from half-past ten to one, after
which time you would not be admitted anywhere, as it is supposed
that the lady of the house is just going to tiffin (lunch),
which she takes at two, and then goes to sleep for two or three
hours.</p>
<p>Of course the first person I call on is the commanding officer.
I drive in at the gate of the compound, and under some trees, up
to the house door, and so under the portico; for every house has
a very large carriage portico to protect the horses from the sun.
My carriage is a phaëton—the britska, phaëton, and buggy being
almost the only vehicles used in India. The britska does very
well for a judge, and the buggy a sort of carriage for a single
man. Mine is a phaëton with two ponies. On the box sits the
coachman—dark-brown face, large black mustachios, white calico
tunic and trowsers, white turban, turned up with pale blue, as
livery, and blue and white cummerband round the waist; except
only when it is wet, and then he wears a crimson skull-cap, and
a scarlet full cloak with sleeves. A syce or groom runs by the
side of the ponies.</p>
<p>Arrived at the door, I call out "Sahib hy?" Gentleman in?
meaning, Is your master at home? If not, I leave a card: if he
is, I enter the house, and follow the servant who has answered
me. I should have told you that there are no such things as
knockers or bells here. Every door is open, unless in the very
hot weather, and there are always six or eight servants lounging
about in the verandah. As I step out of the carriage, each one
of these stoops down, touches the ground with the back of his
hand, and then pats his forehead three or four times, signifying,
I suppose, that, if I were to order him, he would even throw
dirt upon his own head.</p>
<p>In reply to the question "Sahib hy?" one of the men
answers, "Hy, khadawum"—He is, O representative of God;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span>
at the same time holding his hands pressed together as if
he were saying his prayers. He precedes me into the house,
still in the same attitude. He sets me a chair, whilst another
man comes in, unfastens the rope of the punkah, and, taking
the end of it out into the verandah, sits down and pulls it,
and very soon falls asleep, still, however, continuing his occupation.</p>
<p>Presently in comes the master of the house, dressed in white
jacket, black neckerchief (if any), white shirt, white trowsers,
white stockings, and shoes made of some white skin. I should
have told you that the servant who shows me in takes my card to
his master, with which card his master plays the whole time I am
there. In a few minutes in comes the lady, in clothes hanging
loosely around her; she probably does not wear stays in the
morning: her dress is white muslin, and her face, as well as
those of her children, if she have any, is of a ghastly pale colour.
This is universal in India.</p>
<p>There is not much conversation at a first visit, so I soon rise
and go to some person to whom I have a letter of introduction,
when he at once volunteers to accompany me on the rest of my
calls. These first visits are made by the gentleman only; his
wife does not accompany him. In the course of a few days the
gentlemen return the call, bringing their wives with them.
Daughters are out of the question: beyond the age of six they
are a genus unknown in India. They go to England at that age,
come out again to India at eighteen, and probably marry in
Calcutta, and settle at once some four or five months' journey
from their parents, who have been so anxiously looking forward
to seeing them.</p>
<div class="sidenote">DINNER-PARTIES.</div>
<p>A few days after the form of calling has been gone through,
some half-dozen different persons send you invitations to dinner,
kindly wishing to welcome the stranger to the station. From
half-past seven to eight is the usual hour in India; for if people
dined earlier they would necessarily lose their evening drive.
The carriage enters the compound; a servant runs in to the
sahib, and, pressing his own hands together, says, "Ghairee
ata" (carriage comes). Out issues the sahib into the front verandah:<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span>
the lady is handed out; the gentleman offers his arm,
and walks off, leaving me to follow as best I may.</p>
<p>From the verandah we enter the dining-room. There are no
halls or passages or cupboards in the Mofussil. Down the whole
length of the room is a long table laid for dinner, round which
we must wind to get to the opposite door leading into the drawing-room.
Here are a number of ladies seated on one side the
room, on the other side the gentlemen. After a little while an
old Indian with a long silvery beard, and dressed completely in
white, comes in, and, pressing his hands together, says, "Canna
mig" (dinner on table).</p>
<p>Then the master of the house gives his arm to the most important
lady present; the others do likewise, according to the
most strict precedence of rank, the lady of the house being taken
first. She does not take the top of the table, but assigns that
place to whoever has led her in, herself occupying the seat next
him on his right hand. Each person brings his khitmutgar; accordingly,
behind each chair stands a man in white, who, as you
sit down, unfolds and hands you the napkin which was on your
plate; he then falls back a step, and crosses his arms over his chest.
As soon as grace has been said, the cover is taken off the soup-tureen,
and those who like it are helped to a rich sort of chicken-broth.</p>
<p>After that, you hear on every side—"Mrs. So-and-so, may
I have the pleasure of taking a glass of wine with you?" "I
shall be very happy." "Which do you take, beer or wine?"
"Thank you; I will take a little beer," or "wine," as the case
may be. Suppose the former, and myself the speaker, I turn
round and say to my khitmutgar, "Beer, shraubs meem Sahib,
ki do" (beer-wine, Mrs. Lady, give).</p>
<p>In the mean time they are uncovering the dishes. At the top
is a pair of fine roast fowls, at the bottom a pair of boiled ditto.
At the sides, fowl cutlets, fowl patties, fowl rissoles, stewed fowls,
grilled fowl, chicken-pie, &c. &c. No ham, no bacon, and little
tiny potatoes not larger than a cherry, with stewed cucumbers, and
some sticky Indian vegetables, are handed round. But for the
second course a great treat is reserved. Six or seven mutton-chops,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span>
each equal to one mouthful, are brought in, and with much ceremony
placed at the top of the table; at the other end are slices
of potatoes fried. Your hostess tells you how glad she was that
Mr. So-and-so had sent her the loin of a Patna sheep to-day:
she hoped we should like it. Then comes curried fowl and rice;
then pine-apple pie, custard, jelly, plantain, oranges, pine-apples,
&c. &c.; but directly these sweets appear, there appear also, behind
the chairs of many of the gentlemen, servants carrying a
little carpet, with a neat fringe to it. These they place at the
back of their masters' chairs, on the floor, and then each servant
brings in a large hookah, places it on the little carpet, and, whilst
the ladies and others are eating the custards, pies, and fruits, you
have all around you the incessant bubble from the hookah, and
smell the filthy smoke from an abominable compound of tobacco
and various noxious drugs.</p>
<p>The ladies rarely sit for above one glass of wine, when they
retire and leave the smokers to themselves. Cigars are then produced
for the use of the other gentlemen; and, after they have
all smoked and drunk a little more wine than enough, they join
the ladies. Then there is a little general talking, then a little
music: then come cards—I never play—and then the good-byes,
and so home to bed—a nightmare during one's sleep, and a headache
in the morning! When alone, we always dine at four.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Cuttack_August_29_1843" id="Cuttack_August_29_1843">Cuttack, August 29, 1843.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">OURANG-OUTANG.</div>
<p>I had been sitting in the verandah reading, and went away for
a few minutes to speak to my wife. When I came back my chair
was occupied. There, sitting as quietly and demurely as possible,
was an enormous ourang-outang, or monkey of some sort. When
I first caught sight of him he had my book in his hands, and was
to all appearance reading. It happened, however, to be rather
a stupid book, and he very soon threw it down; he then placed
his hands upon his knees and sat perfectly still, just as if he had
been meditating on what he had been reading. I should say, as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span>
nearly as I could judge, that he must have been above five feet
in height, supposing him to stand erect. He sat as upright as
any man.</p>
<p>After watching him for a minute or two, and observing that
the calves of his legs were thicker and more like those of a man
than monkeys' legs usually are, I stepped quietly back and called
my wife. All this time I had not seen his face; however, as she
came, one of the parrots screamed, and the old gentleman turned
his head. His face was very dark, with large whiskers and beard,
and hair all perfectly white; his body a light-brown, and his face
and hands peculiarly large. As soon as he saw me he half rose,
laid both hands on the elbow of the chair, and began to grin
and show his teeth and spit at me. I did not quite like it, as I
was afraid he might make a spring in my direction; yet I knew
that my voice would at once frighten him away, if I raised the
horrid unearthly yell used by the natives to scare wild beasts,
and which even the tiger will hardly resist unless much pressed
by hunger.</p>
<p>Still I felt more inclined to watch him. Once I thought of
going round the other way and getting my gun, but really he
looked so much like a man that I could not have shot him. He
continued to grin and spit until I turned away, hoping he would
resume his former sedate position. As soon, however, as he
thought my eye was off him he rose leisurely from his chair,
stepped slowly out of the verandah, caught hold of a branch of the
banian-tree, and swung himself up into it. As he did this I saw
that he had a long tail, so he could not, I believe, have been an
ourang-outang. Indeed I never heard of them coming into this
little island, nor, I think, into the district. I went into my study,
and immediately afterwards heard him scuttling away over the
roof of the house. I have not seen him since, but if he comes
back I shall try to make friends with him by giving him food,
though I believe he belongs to rather a treacherous family.</p>
<p>Whilst on this subject, I will mention another monkey which
I saw a few days ago. It is almost two feet in height, quite
black, except a circle of light-brown hair round its face, and is
held in high veneration by the natives. They come chiefly from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span>
a place up the country called Brinderbund, where it is said there
are nothing but Brahmins and monkeys.</p>
<p>I was once driving with a friend when we met a party of pilgrims,
who had two or three monkeys with them. We stopped
and spoke to the people, and one of the monkeys came into the
carriage and perched himself on my lap. I offered the people
two rupees for him, but they said they were going to take the
two to Juggernat'h, where the Rajah would buy them. I asked
how much they would take for them; they said fifty rupees for
the pair. This I could not afford, and I told them so; they then
said I might have them both for twenty-five rupees. This, however,
was more than I could give, and we therefore drove on,
though I was very unwilling to part with the little fellows, that
seemed to have taken quite a fancy to me.</p>
<p>The manner of reception at the judge's is much the same as I
described in my last; but here there are, however, two or three
different additional servants, who with long chouries keep flapping
the insects off the table and the faces of the company. Here is
also plenty of mutton; and cheese from England. All the side
dishes are of silver.</p>
<p>In the drawing-room most of the tables are marble. From
the ceiling is suspended a number of small plated chandeliers
with glass drops; in another room is a good piano-forte, and
after dinner some very tolerable music and singing. There is
also a little rational conversation.</p>
<div class="sidenote">A BACHELOR'S PARTY.</div>
<p>But now let me describe a bachelor's party at the commissioner's,
who, by the way, is above the judge in rank and in
salary. I say a bachelor's party, because his wife is gone to
England for her health, and he cannot therefore invite ladies.
Before dinner there is much general conversation about races,
church-building, hunting, the paucity of chaplains, &c. &c.
Some magnificent prints are brought forward; a set of splendid
silver medallions of sacred history are examined and admired;
some ancient coins and inscriptions are submitted to the inspection
of the unlearned; the last English reviews are brought
under discussion.</p>
<p>In the mean time the gentlemen are lounging upon ottomans<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span>
about a large marble table, the host going from one to another,
speaking to and trying to please all. To the sportsman he speaks
of his gun, to the chaplain of a project of building a new church,
to the engineer of the aërial steam-ship, and, in short, makes
every one pleased both with himself and his neighbours. I need
hardly tell you that our commissioner at Cuttack is a most
agreeable man; his great object is to make others happy, and
his kind good-natured face is welcome everywhere. He is about
thirty-six years of age, fond of sporting, fond of reading, fond of
children—although he has none himself. Every one likes him,
from the judge to the faquer, from the highest to the lowest—unless,
indeed, the lawless, and those he does not spare. He has
the grand tact of rendering himself agreeable to everybody, and
the means by which he does this is the exercise of a kind heart.
He does not obtrude his concerns, but listens patiently and with
interest to the remarks of others; and this, remember, with
cheerfulness and pure morality, is the means by which any person
may make himself beloved.</p>
<p>But to return: the conversation turns upon church music.</p>
<p>"You have an organ, Commissioner, have you not?" says one.</p>
<p>"Yes, but I very seldom use it."</p>
<p>"You should send it to the church," said I.</p>
<p>"Well, I have sometimes thought I would, but I am afraid
you have no place for it; and, besides, I don't know whether the
tunes would do."</p>
<p>"Let us judge of that," says the magistrate; "give us a tune
whilst they are putting the dinner on the table."</p>
<p>"Very well; and I am sure, if the padre likes it, he is very
welcome to have it till Mrs. M. comes back."</p>
<p>Thereupon we adjourned to an adjoining room, where there was
a very large upright organ, but, as Mr. M. said, "only a
grinder." He puts in the church barrel, and, turning the handle,
plays, one after another, several really beautiful psalm-tunes,
whilst every one stands serious and attentive. At last dinner is
announced. The style is much the same as at the judge's, except
that almost all the dishes are silver, and there is a magnificent
racing-cup of the same metal in the centre. The eatables, however,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span>
are many of them English. There is fresh salmon brought
from England, English soups, English potatoes, carrots, oysters,
cheese, &c. &c., all brought out in canisters hermetically sealed.</p>
<p>Of course, as everywhere else, the beer, wines, &c., are from
England, for so devoid are we of any trading community, that
in this splendid climate no attempt has ever yet been made to
manufacture wine. Beer we could not make, at least so they
say, for want of barley;<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> but I believe that pine-apples, of which
we get three or four young juicy ones for a penny, would make
splendid wine. England has no pine-apples at all like ours.
Then there are preserves and pies made of green-gages, apricots,
&c., all from home. Here also, as at the judge's, there is
abundance of champagne, or, as we call it here, tokay. After
dinner, at all houses, each person takes a small glass of liqueur.</p>
<p>At the commissioner's, being a bachelor's party, we remained
in the dining-room. Cigars were introduced, with coffee and
brandy-and-water for those who liked it. I will now relate an
anecdote I heard there:—</p>
<div class="sidenote">A TIGER-STORY.</div>
<p>"Why, B.," said Mr. M., "I heard you had an adventure
yesterday. What was it?"</p>
<p>"Oh! don't ask me; it makes me almost sick to think of it."</p>
<p>"Oh, nonsense!" from all present.</p>
<p>"Well, if I must, here goes." Then drinking off a glass of
wine B. began: "I suppose I must make a regular history of it,
so I will commence at the beginning. Last evening, in the
bright and balmy, or I should say gorgeous, splendour of an
oriental sunset, when the brilliant tints of—"</p>
<p>"Bah! B., don't be too absurd," cried some of us; "tell us
what it was without all this brilliant balmy nonsense."</p>
<p>"Why, I thought I was poetical; but I see you have no
poetry in your souls; so I will condescend to prose. I was
obliged yesterday afternoon to go down the river for a short distance;
I had a boat and three natives. When I had completed
what I wanted I returned, and was paddling along, not far from
the bank, just on this side of those enormous blocks of iron rock</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span></p>
<p>which keep the river from overflowing, and form such a splendid
monument of the great mechanical powers of the ancient
Hindus—"</p>
<p>"Come, never mind the antiquities; we will have them another
time. Let us hear your own adventures now."</p>
<p>"Well, I had just rounded this point when one of my men
called out most vehemently, 'Look, sir, look; there is a tiger!'
My eyes were instantly turned in the direction towards which he
pointed, and there I saw a most fearful sight. A man was tearing,
springing, bounding towards the river, and a hundred yards
behind him followed a large panther, pursuing him with those
rapid leaps for which that animal is so famous. I instantly
ordered my people to pull towards the shore, in the hope of
rescuing the panting wretch who thus struggled for his life.
Before we reached the bank the man had made a bound into the
water, and stood immersed up to his neck. I suppose he was too
much exhausted to swim, for we could hardly hear his voice as
he called to us to make haste.</p>
<p>"At this instant I saw the dark blunt snout of an enormous
alligator rising slowly above the surface, as he made his way
towards his intended victim. I shouted to the man, 'Crocodile!
crocodile!' He heard me, hesitated an instant, then rushed back
to the bank. This sudden movement disconcerted the panther,
who started back a few paces, and the next moment our boat
shot within reach. 'Come hither,' I exclaimed. The man
made a spring; the panther leaped forward, and, as I seized the
former by the arm, the latter seized him by the leg.</p>
<p>"Oh! the shriek of the poor victim! I shall never forget it.
Foolishly I had not brought my rifle, but I shouted to the men
to strike the beast with their oars. No; the cowardly wretches
shrank down in the farther end of the boat, and would not move.
I could do nothing, therefore, but pull at the man's shoulder,
whilst his horrid shrieks were ringing in my ears. Had I let go,
the panther would instantly have carried him off; had there been
another European with me, the man might have been saved.</p>
<p>"This takes long to describe, but it was all the work of a few
seconds. Presently I felt that I was drawing the man more<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span>
towards me; I looked, and saw the flesh of the leg peeling off in
the jaws of the panther until it came to the ankle, where, with
one crunch, the bone was severed, and the beast galloped off
with the fearful mouthful. I now drew the man, who by this
time was quite senseless, into the boat. I tied my handkerchief
tightly round the upper part of his leg, and with a piece of wood
formed a sort of tourniquet. We brought him to Cuttack, and
sent him at once to the hospital; but he died in the course of a
few hours."</p>
<p>"What a horrible affair!" exclaimed several voices.</p>
<div class="sidenote">POWER OF THE HUMAN EYE.</div>
<p>"But I thought," said I, "that the voice, or even the eye, of
man was sufficient to make any beast quail."</p>
<p>"So it is, provided they are neither very hungry nor very
much excited. This beast had been engaged in a long chase,
and nothing could have frightened him from his prey."</p>
<p>"Ah! of course that would have made a difference," I replied;
"but Mr. L. had a little adventure the other day which seems to
prove the power of the eye of man."</p>
<p>"Oh! there is no doubt that man is master of all, and I believe
many natives have been preserved by the power of the human
eye, and many more might be saved if they only had the coolness
to exercise the power which has been bestowed upon them. But
what was the adventure of L.'s?"</p>
<p>"It was nothing very wonderful or exciting. He was staying
at Chugga for a few days; and one morning he went out with his
gun, accompanied by a native Christian of the name of Perswa.
Whilst they were in the jungle they suddenly heard a distant
shout, as of some one calling 'Perswa, Perswa!' They sat down
and bent their ears to the ground to listen. Presently the cry
was repeated, 'Perswa, Perswa!' Again it was renewed,
'Perswa, Perswa!' 'It is a tiger,' cried his follower. They
immediately hastened back to the village, but found no one there
but four old women, who told them that one of their people was
hurt by a tiger. Mr. L. started instantly to his rescue, and as
he left the village he was joined by at least fifty men, who in
their fear were hiding, but, being now encouraged by the presence
of a white man, sallied forth with him. Following the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span>
direction of the cries of the poor wretch, they soon came to the
spot where he stood facing a large tiger.</p>
<p>"It seems that the man, whilst in the jungle, had suddenly
caught sight of it on the very point of springing upon him.
With great presence of mind he stood perfectly still, and
fixed his eyes steadily on the monstrous brute. The tiger
wavered for an instant, then, quailing before his eye, he slunk
behind a bush. Still the man kept his eye upon him, whilst the
tiger every minute peered forth to see whether that dreaded eye
was withdrawn.</p>
<p>"From bush to bush the tiger moved, as if seeking to avoid
the gaze, in order that he might spring out to seize his prey.
Slowly the man turned from side to side, still facing his dreaded
foe, and calling upon Perswa and the Padre Sahib to come and
save him; and this he continued till the party came up, who by
their shouts forced the tiger to abandon his intended meal.
Now this seems a strong instance of the power of the human
eye."</p>
<p>"It does indeed," replied F. "I have known it exercised
with equal success in another case. A young officer was walking
through the jungle; he foolishly had nothing but his pistols with
him. Suddenly he heard a noise, and observed the branches
shaking near him; he crept forward on his hands and knees, to
see what animal was there. Presently he found himself face to
face with a huge bull bison. He started to his feet, drew a
pistol from his belt, and fixed his eye upon that of the animal.
The bison tore the turf with his teeth and horns, stamping furiously,
but yet he dared not charge while the human eye was
fixed on his. Presently the beast appeared to become uneasy,
moved his enormous shaggy head from side to side, and at last
slunk off to join the herd that were feeding in the distance; and
so my friend was saved by his own presence of mind and the
power of the human eye."</p>
<div class="sidenote">BATS.</div>
<p>But we have been long enough at the commissioner's dinner-table;
so let us go home and to bed. It is ten o'clock, and for
the people in the Mofussil that is a very late hour. I have told
you what a nuisance the mosquitoes are, and also the white ants.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span>
There is another creature from which you are comparatively free
in England, and that is the bat. Numbers of all sizes make
their nests up above the chats or ceiling-cloths in the bungalows,
some not bigger than the humming-bird, others, as I have told
you, so large as to deserve the name of flying foxes. Often at
night they come into the rooms. One evening, when my wife
was going to bed, she found five large bats wheeling round and
round in her dressing-room.</p>
<p>On such occasions as this I post myself in one corner of the
room, and my chokedar or watchman in another, both armed
with long sticks, with which we keep hitting at the bats until we
knock them down, and then we throw them out of doors. Often,
as they whirl round the room, one will hit himself against the
punkah, and fall to the ground. Instantly the mungoose springs
upon him, and we hear the bones crushing in his jaws.</p>
<p>One night I was suddenly awakened by something moving and
scratching about my head; I raised my hand, and found a large
bat clinging to my hair; dreading a snake, I had started up—there
was a weight upon my head. I dashed him off, and soon
went to sleep again; but he appeared to have taken a fancy to
me, and I was again awakened in the same manner; this time,
therefore, I got out of bed, knocked the animal down, and killed
him. I have several times been roused at night by a great cockroach,
three or four inches long, crawling over my lace. The
other evening a flight of large maulises came into the parlour,
and soon drove us to bed. I have two cobras, which were both
killed in my own house; also a tarantula, which I caught in my
dressing-room.</p>
<p>To turn to another subject. I have been endeavouring to
render society here more friendly and agreeable than it can be
at large formal dinner-parties, and I am happy to say it has been
followed by some of the most influential, and I trust that the
custom may become general. The plan is to invite about eight,
and those all friendly and intimate, to a quiet dinner at four
o'clock. By the time this is over the sun is getting low; and,
instead of sitting for a couple of hours over the wine, we soon
follow the ladies into the drawing-room. The carriages come<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span>
to the door for those who like a drive. Some stroll into the
wood with their guns; some talk; and so the time passes for
about an hour, when the sudden darkness falls upon us almost
without warning. We all reassemble at seven for tea and coffee;
then spend a pleasant chatty hour or two, or disperse at about
half-past nine, having had more amusement than can be enjoyed
at a mere dinner-party.</p>
<p>We are making rather a large flower-garden between the house
and the river. The wages to a good gardener are about two
pence a-day—to a coolie, or labourer, a penny three farthings.
My mollee, or gardener, is a very good one; but I must explain
what we mean by a good gardener. It signifies neither more
nor less than a good thief. I plan my garden and lay it out,
showing the man where the paths are to be, where the beds, and
where the lawns. Within a few days after it is laid out I expect
to find it tolerably full of flowers and shrubs. Where they
come from I do not know: you cannot purchase any such things
here. Of course, then, everything must come from the gardens
of my neighbours. In England this would be considered, and
would in fact be, a very dishonest mode of proceeding; but in
India it is the custom.</p>
<p>The mollees have the charge of the gardens, and they mutually
supply one another. If after a time I should have anything
very choice in my garden, my mollee would give cuttings or
small plants of it to any of the other mollees who wished for
them, and thus every garden would be improved. A person
must be very churlish indeed to interfere with this system of
general accommodation, which in the end is equally advantageous
to all. The system, however, is liable to abuse, and therefore
I do not think I altogether approve of it myself. I was once
dining with a young officer, and we had some remarkably fine
peas. After praising them, I observed that I did not know he
had a garden. "Why, no," he replied, laughing; "but I keep
a very good gardener." Now this was decidedly most unjust.
This young man would not be at the trouble or expense of a
garden himself, but chose to take an unfair advantage of the
industry and liberality of others. I was not at all surprised to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span>
hear, shortly afterwards, that a court of inquiry had been sitting
to examine into the circumstances of a most dishonourable action
which he had committed, and for which, if it had not been for
the leniency of his commanding officer, he would most probably
have been cashiered.</p>
<div class="sidenote">CRUEL TREATMENT OF SERVANTS.</div>
<p>I think I have told you how cruelly some of the people here
beat their servants. I was standing with an officer in the porch
of his house when I was last at Midnapore, when his syce, or
groom, brought his horse to the door. Captain L. turned to me,
and said, "I have not given that fellow a thrashing for a long
time, and he'll forget what it feels like, and grow lazy." Now the
fact was, the man was so attentive and industrious that Captain
L. could not possibly find any fault with him. However, he went
down the steps, and, on the pretence that the man did not hold
his horse properly, gave him several violent blows on the face
and head, kicked him three or four times with all his force, and
struck him on the back with a two-foot rule with such violence
that the man was obliged to have his back plastered and bandaged
up: and all this without the slightest fault on the part of the
servant.</p>
<p>Much as has been said about slavery, I do not believe that
any of the slaves in Jamaica were ever worse treated than are
the servants of some of our officers here. The excuse is, that it
is impossible to manage the Hindus without the whip; but I
never use it, and I am certainly quite as well served by all,
excepting two. With these I am going to part, for they have
been spoiled by living with a very violent man. I will give
you an instance of the punishments I employ.</p>
<p>My sirdar always goes home to his supper at nine o'clock.
The other evening, after he was gone, I found that he had neglected
to get the night-lamp ready, so I was obliged to do it
myself. The following morning, instead of thrashing him, I
made no observation whatever on the subject; but at nine o'clock
in the evening, when he came to ask whether he might go home,
I said, "You did not bring the night-lamp last night; I may
want something else that is not ready, so for the next week you
will not go till eleven." This was a great punishment to him,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span>
and yet it did not degrade either the man or myself as a beating
would do. At the same time I fully admit that the natives, by
their slowness and inactivity, are sometimes very provoking; but
surely that is no excuse to the Christian who gives way to angry
feelings.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Cuttack_October_12_1843" id="Cuttack_October_12_1843">Cuttack, October 12, 1843.</a></h2>
<p>I returned to Cuttack yesterday from Midnapore. It was a
most wretched journey, raining incessantly—not such mild gentle
rain as you have in England, but regular blinding torrents.
The roads were so desperately bad that, although I engaged two
extra bearers at each stage, yet each day's journey of fifty miles
took me twenty-four hours instead of fifteen. My last day's
journey was from Barrapore to Cuttack—fifty miles. I started
at two in the afternoon, and arrived at home at half-past two the
next day.</p>
<p>About eight o'clock in the evening the rain came down almost
in one sheet of water: the men could hardly stagger along with
their burden. The rain was driven by the furious gusts of wind
violently against the doors of the palanquin, but they were closed
and bolted. I was smoking a cigar, and thinking about dear
England, when suddenly it struck me that it was becoming very
cold. I wondered at it, so closely shut up as the palanquin was.
Still it became colder and colder. I was lying on my back. I
laid my hand on my face—it was quite warm. I touched my
chest—it was warm also. Suddenly I jumped up—it was only
the side of me underneath that was cold. My trowsers, shirt,
flannel waistcoat, &c., were all soaking. The rain had found its
way in at the crevice between the doors, and formed a little
puddle just where I was lying.</p>
<p>A severe cold is a very dangerous thing in this country, often
bringing on jungle-fever. I first stripped off my wet clothes,
then sopped up the puddle as well as I could, and stopped the
leak. I then wrapped myself up in a warm blanket. After
these preliminaries I got out of my canteen a small spirit-lamp<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span>
and kettle, then hung them to the top of the palanquin, struck
a light, and boiled some water. This I poured into a tumbler,
and, adding a little brandy and a little essence of ginger, drank
it off, and then composed myself to sleep. I dozed a little;
awoke again; tried to go to sleep; could not; changed horses—I
mean men; on again; the blanket wet through; moved the
blanket so as to have a dry part next me; soon wet through
again. At last the blanket was soaking; felt my clothes, which
I had hung up to dry; still very wet, but they nevertheless
seemed better than the soppy blanket, so I dressed again.</p>
<p>I dared not call the man for my patarahs, or tin boxes, and
get out fresh things, for they would have been drenched in an
instant. So I dressed in the wet ones; stuffed the blanket up
against the leak; lighted another cigar, and puffed away until
the palanquin was quite filled with smoke. This created additional
warmth, helped to dry my clothes, and by its effects upon
myself I have no doubt assisted in keeping off fever.</p>
<div class="sidenote">DESCRIPTION OF A PALANQUIN.</div>
<p>But as I live so much in my palanquin, I think I had better
give a more accurate description of it than I have done. It is
made of wood, painted as an English carriage, and having arms,
crest, &c., if you choose. The top is covered with a white
cement to prevent its leaking, and is slightly curved, so that
the rain may run off. The bottom is open wicker-work, on
which is laid a mattress and other cushions, covered generally
with thin leather. The sides, top, &c., are lined, often with
crimson silk. I have had my mattress and other cushions covered
with white drill; it is much more serviceable, and will
wash: my lining is of the same. The interior length of my palanquin
is six feet six inches, the breadth three feet three inches,
and of the same height.</p>
<p>The wicker-work of the bottom extends from the head to within
one foot three inches of the foot; then instead of wicker-work
is a wooden box, which in mine is covered with part of a leopard's
skin. In it I carry a few bottles of soda-water and beer
and a bottle of water. Over my feet, resting on brackets,
is a box, an invention of my own, which I find most useful.
It is three feet long, one foot and a quarter broad, and one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span>
foot high. In this I keep a great variety of things that I may
need.</p>
<p>Whenever I halt I have nothing to do but lift this box out,
and there is all my apparatus on the table. Most people have
only a shelf, on which they place their medicine-chest, dressing-case,
pistols, &c.; but I found this so inconvenient, that I resolved
to have the whole in one moveable box, and I find it a
great additional comfort. In the lining of the palanquin are
pockets for books, &c., and stuck here and there are hooks, on
which to hang a watch, &c.</p>
<p>I have pillows especially for my palanquin. I take a blanket
and a few books, and then I can start in tolerable comfort for a
four or five days' journey. There is a place outside behind for
a large brass washhand-basin; in front there are two little windows,
like those of a carriage, with glass and Venetian blinds;
behind there is one window, and also a lamp with a glass in the
back of the palanquin, so as to show its light inside.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Cuttack_November_8_1843" id="Cuttack_November_8_1843">Cuttack, November 8, 1843.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">ANECDOTES OF TIGERS.</div>
<p>I have just been called out to see an enormous Bengal tiger
which some native huntsmen shot last night. It has been long
prowling about between Cuttack and Chogga, and has carried off
many unfortunate men. A party of us intended to go out and
look for him next week. He was wounded first by a shot in the
shoulder; the second ball went through his eye and killed him at
once. It was a magnificent beast.</p>
<p>On the 9th a large leopard was brought in, and also a wild
boar. The latter animal is excessively savage and very dangerous.
The usual mode of hunting is on horseback, armed with
long lances or spears. His strength is very great; he is much
larger and longer than the English pig. When enraged his back
becomes as much curved as that of the hyæna; indeed, it is a
good deal so at all times. From the top of the head to the tail
extends a thick mane of bristles, not hanging down like a horse's<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span>
mane, but standing perfectly upright. I have a young one now
in a sty, but the men are obliged to throw his food to him, as
he flies at them directly they go within reach. The tusks of
the wild boar grow to several inches in length. A friend of
mine was out one day when a boar charged his horse; the brute
made a spring at its hinder parts, cutting right and left, and both
the hind legs of the steed were severed to the bone, and his
master was obliged to dismount and shoot him.</p>
<p>This reminds me of another anecdote. Miss D., the sister
of the doctor at Balasore, was out riding a short time since; a
gentleman of her acquaintance was with her. They were moving
slowly along, when suddenly they heard a crackling of the
branches by the roadside, and the next instant an enormous
tiger sprang into the middle of the lane, just in front of them.
The horses appeared paralysed; they could not move, but stood
trembling in every joint. The tiger turned round, glared upon
them, opened his mouth wide, and gave that horrible ya a-a-a,
then made a spring, bounded into the jungle on the other side,
and disappeared.</p>
<p>The tiger which they brought in the other day measured ten
feet six inches in length, and one foot two inches round his ankle.
This species possesses enormous strength; a single blow from
his paw is sufficient to crush a man's skull into one frightful
mass.</p>
<p>The adjutant of the 8th Bengal Native Regiment told me of
a case which he had seen. A tiger seized a large English
bullock, tossed it over his shoulders, and then sprang at one
bound over a fence several feet in height: so you may easily imagine
that a wild tiger is not a very pleasant companion.</p>
<p>We had a sad loss the night before last. I have already mentioned
our beautiful little antelope, which used to come and lie
at my feet while I was writing. The other night I heard him
give a faint scream, and hastened to see what was the matter;
he had been bitten by a cobra, and was dead in ten minutes.
Poor little fellow! I could have cried,—my wife <em>did</em>. I have
seen many, but never knew one so tame before. I doubt whether
any of the servants had dry eyes as its body was thrown into the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span>
river. The bite of the cobra causes the body to swell to a
frightful size.</p>
<p>The other day my wife was walking in the garden, when a
large cobra glided past her; she called some of the men, who
soon killed it, but it was too large to put into a bottle. A gentleman,
happening to call just then, asked me whether I had seen
the poison. I said, "No." He took the head between his fingers
and squeezed it in such a way as to open the mouth. In the
upper jaw were two very large white fangs, corresponding as it
were to our eye-teeth. As he squeezed with more force, a tiny
drop of perfectly transparent colourless fluid issued through
the point of each fang—these were drops of venom that pass
into the wound. The gentleman who showed me this was a
medical man, and he said that he would not for a lac of
rupees have the half of one of those drops get into a cut in his
finger.</p>
<p>Last June, when the weather was intensely hot, after we left
Pooree, where we had resided for six weeks with Mr. and Mrs.
B., I went to Chandapore, a delightful place on the sea-coast,
about seven miles from Balasore. The thermometer was 105°
in-doors at six o'clock in the evening. When I started from
Cuttack the thermometer in my palkee stood at 126°. At
Chandapore I was glad to put on a cloth coat and cloth trowsers.
That is one great advantage in my station; I have almost every
variety of climate, except extreme cold. Indeed, when the
bishop asked me how I liked my station, I told him I would not
change with any chaplain in India.</p>
<p>At Chandapore four of us one morning started for a walk over
the sands. We took no shoes nor stockings, and had our
trowsers tucked up to the knees. How we did laugh at eyeing
ourselves! we were like a set of merry boys. Every now and
then one of us would step upon a quicksand and sink down half
up his legs, and have to scramble out. Then, as we ran along
in the water about six or eight inches deep, we would suddenly
see two or three sea-scorpions, and run away, or perhaps slip or
stumble over a piece of rock, and then down we came, and all
roared with laughter, and then the magistrate sang out,—</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span></p>
<div class="cpoem1"><div class="stanza">
<span class="i0">"There was an old man at Barbago,<br /></span>
<span class="i0">He lived upon nothing but sago;—<br /></span>
<span class="i0">Oh! how he did jump,<br /></span>
<span class="i0">When a doctor said, plump,<br /></span>
<span class="i0">'To a roast leg of mutton you may go.'"<br /></span>
</div></div>
<div class="sidenote">SEA-SCORPIONS.</div>
<p>I caught a couple of the sea-scorpions; they do not sting, but
cut with the edge of their tails, and it is said that the wound is
incurable. They are covered with a hard shell.</p>
<div class="sidenote">RELIEF FUND.</div>
<p>There is a great deal of illness about now, although the weather
is most delightful: the thermometer seldom above 80°;
the morning quite chilly. I am very well; the only complaint
I have is that of getting exceedingly fat. I think I have mentioned
our relief fund. There are a number of poor Christians
here who have lived by beggary, stealing, and all sorts of wretchedness.
We are trying to induce them to work, and give them
materials, and purchase at a high rate what they produce, and I
quite hope our plan will succeed.</p>
<p>You would have laughed to have seen me to-day, surrounded
by a crowd of half-black women, measuring out prints and calicoes
for dresses, &c.; I being obliged to do it, as my wife was poorly.
The things they make are to be given, as rewards, in our new
Christian school.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Barripore_November_28_1843" id="Barripore_November_28_1843">Barripore, November 28, 1843.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">SOLITUDE.</div>
<p>How extraordinary does this utter solitude appear! I have
just been outside the bungalow: there is none of that confused
murmuring sound which is almost universal in England. Every
noise is distinctly heard: a child's voice, or a dove's coo, appears
to break the intensity of the silence. And then, the thought that,
excepting a few barbarians, there is not a human being within a
day's journey! The whole feeling is exciting, but oppressive.
Millions of black heathens interpose between me and a single
European; and yet, with one brace of pistols and a good thick
stick, I feel myself perfectly secure. But I will give an instance
of the power which each European possesses over these people.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span></p>
<p>When I went to Balasore with the L.'s, we had four palanquins,
and consequently forty bearers. At one place, where we
stopped to change men, Mrs. L. sent a man to my palanquin to
say that she wanted to speak to me. I at once walked across to
the spot where her palanquin stood. The night was as dark as
pitch, with a nasty drizzling rain. The red flaming torches disclosed
a group of from eighty to a hundred natives, with their
long black hair and immense mustachios, naked, except a cloth
round their loins.</p>
<p>As we changed bearers here, there was of course a double set
present. We had four palanquins—one containing a native nurse
and three of Captain L.'s children; another, Captain L. and one
child; another, Mrs. L.; and the fourth was my own. On one
side of the road was a dense thicket, or jungle; on the other, a
deep canal, called by the natives a "nullah;" and these, as well
as the dusky group, were flittingly lighted by the torches of the
mussalchees. Every man, as is the custom, had a long stick in
his hand. We were many hours' journey from any European;
Captain L. was totally enfeebled by sickness; and, in short, I
was the only person who could have attempted to knock a man
down.</p>
<div class="sidenote">SOCIAL RELATION OF EUROPEANS AND NATIVES.</div>
<p>But mark the power of white skin (not but that mine is getting
somewhat mahogany colour): when I bent down to learn what
Mrs. L. wanted, she was too faint and weak to speak loud, and
the abominable babbling of the hundred men about us prevented
the possibility of my hearing what she said.</p>
<p>"Choop ruho!" (keep quiet) I called out, but to no effect.
"Choop ruho!" I bawled, but still to no avail; I could not
hear what Mrs. L. said. Suddenly I snatched the stick out of
the hand of the man next me, just gave it a little flourish, and
jumped into the middle of the crowd. "You want the whip,
eh?" I shouted. "Choop ruho, will you?" (for a word or two
of English generally slips in either at the beginning or the end
of a hasty sentence). In one instant there was a dead silence:
not a word of resistance, or even insolence. Mrs. L. was weak
and faint, and it seemed she wanted a glass of wine-and-water;
this detained us a little time, but as long as we remained there<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span>
I found that, even if a whisper arose, the single word "Choop"
was sufficient to quiet it directly.</p>
<p>Now, some people may say, here is a long story about nothing,
or rather about getting a glass of wine-and-water; but I wish
you to observe everything that takes place. Now, the nullah
and the jungles, and the torches and the palanquins, are no great
wonders in themselves, but together they make a pretty picture,
or rather a striking one; and so through life you will find that
every half-dozen things that you observe will either form, or
assist in forming, some picture in your minds, which will certainly
prove amusing or useful, or both.</p>
<p>Then, again, suppose I had told you that I desired the men to
be quiet, and they obeyed me: that would have been much shorter,
but it would not have led the mind on to any other train of thought;
whereas the narrative, as I have related it, suggests many ideas
which, if followed up, would fill whole pages; for instance—</p>
<blockquote>
<p>1st. Why did the men dread the whip, when they were
equally well armed?</p>
<p>2nd. Are they accustomed to feel it?</p>
<p>3rd. Are they generally oppressed, and in what way; and
would a native government be an advantage to them?</p>
<p>4th. In what does that superiority consist which makes
one hundred Hindus afraid of one European?</p>
<p>5th. What is civilization? What is the difference between
<em>real</em> civilization, and that knowledge of arts and
sciences, of railroads and balloons, which is commonly dignified
with the name? And also what is the connexion between
real, true civilization and religion?</p></blockquote>
<p>Here are a few out of numberless trains of thought and questions
which might arise, and do naturally arise, from the little
anecdote I have given. Now, suppose I had said, "At one
stage Mrs. L. said something to me which I could not well make
out on account of the noise the men made; however, I soon
quieted them, and then found that she wanted some wine-and-water."
That description would have given no idea of what
actually took place, neither would it have afforded any subject
for after consideration.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span></p>
<p>It was bitterly cold last night. I had on cloak, trowsers, a
flannel jacket next my skin, a thick coat buttoned up to my neck,
a double blanket over me, and both doors of my palkee shut.
Yet I awoke about four o'clock this morning shivering with the
cold, and was glad to get out and have a good run of two or three
miles, flapping my arms against my sides, to restore the warmth.
Mrs. Acland has complained of the cold for the last two days, even
at twelve o'clock at noon. The fact is, people here become so
accustomed to intense heat that they often find the cold weather
very trying, and the hot season is notoriously the most healthy
part of the year, though I fancy it is now as warm as an English
summer.</p>
<p>Poor Mr. B., with whom we stayed while at Pooree, has had an
attack of the terrible jungle-fever, and will, I fear, be obliged to
return to England. A sick person, at least in my district, is quite
a rarity: all the diseases are so rapid in their operation, that a
week's illness is considered a long time. If it is violent, the
patient generally dies in a few hours, or at most in two or three
days; if slight, he is by that time convalescent, and generally
proceeds at once either to the Cape of Good Hope or to
England.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Cuttack_December_10" id="Cuttack_December_10">Cuttack, December 10.</a></h2>
<p>I have been to Midnapore and back again. Whilst I was at
Balasore information was brought in that one hundred and fifty
or two hundred elephants had come down into the paddy-fields
about twelve miles from Balasore, and that they were destroying
the crops. Two or three of the Europeans there wanted to make
up a party to go and attack them; I should very much like to
have gone with them, but could not afford the time; so the proposition
fell to the ground.</p>
<p>It is dangerous sport, but very exciting. The elephant is
invulnerable except at one point, and that is a small hollow in
the middle of the forehead. I said invulnerable, but that is an
improper word; I mean, that that little spot is the only point
where you can hit him fatally. Fancy an enormous elephant<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span>
charging at full speed down a narrow path, with dense jungle on
either side, and the sportsman standing still till he comes almost
close, and then aiming at the forehead. Suppose he misses the
one little spot—the elephant seizes him with his trunk, dashes him
to the ground, and then kneels upon and crushes him; that is to
say, if it is a fierce male elephant. The tusks of a large one are
worth fifty pounds.</p>
<div class="sidenote">JUGGERNAT'H FESTIVAL.</div>
<p>The sight of the dead pilgrims by the roadside in this part of
India is very dreadful; they go to Juggernat'h by hundreds, or
rather by thousands. At the grand festival in June this year,
when the car of Juggernat'h is dragged from the temple to his
country house, there were present at least eighty thousand pilgrims
from all parts of India, who each make large offerings to
the idol, and during their stay are not allowed to eat any food
but what has been prepared in the temple by the priests. Of
course, for this food a most exorbitant price is charged, and at the
same time it is of so inferior a quality that numbers died of
cholera in consequence of eating it. Many of the pilgrims when
they leave Pooree have not a pice left, and literally lie down
and die of starvation by the roadside. The instant they are dead
they are surrounded by jackals, dogs, and vultures, who quickly
peel all the flesh from the bones: it is a horrid sight, but one
which is too frequent to create surprise.</p>
<p>To the support of this temple our Christian government pays
6000<i>l.</i> a-year, whilst at other places it supports one, two,
or more priests. Some will scarcely understand all the
arguments by which this pernicious support of idolatry is
defended. The principal reason given is, that, when we took
possession of the country, we found a number of heathen temples,
supported out of the produce of certain lands which were
appropriated to their service; and that we, having taken possession
of those lands, are bound to support the same temples
by money derived from our own revenue. When the Roman
Catholics conquered a country, their first object was to extirpate
idolatry; when the Mohammedans waged war, they did it in
order to destroy the idols of the heathens; but we encourage and
protect all those wicked and evil superstitions.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span></p>
<p>Terrible as is the sight of the mutilated bodies of the pilgrims,
it is not to me half so shocking as their thanks when they are
relieved. As I travel, some poor wretch, who has more the
appearance of a skeleton than a human being, comes to the side
of the palanquin, and cries in Hindustanee, "Oh, great king,
have mercy! I have been to Juggernat'h, and I have no rice.
I have not tasted food, O great king, for three days. Oh, great
king, give me some cowries to buy some rice!" I give the man
a pice or two, and then he exclaims, "May Juggernat'h bless
you, O great being! May Juggernat'h make you prosperous!"
This invocation of a blessing from an idol sounds most frightful.
The horrors of the roadside scene I will not describe—they are
too fearful.</p>
<p>The above account reminds me of the exaggerated manner of
expression in use among the Eastern nations. I will give
another instance of it, premising that it is the usual style of
language employed by the natives towards their European
masters. At Midnapore, the other day, I wanted to call on the
commanding officer; I accordingly got into a tanjore,—that is,
the body of a gig, supported on two poles, and carried by men.
As they took me up, I told them to go to the Colonel Sahib's;
they spoke together for a few minutes, and then one of them
said in Hindustanee, "O representative of God, your slaves do
not know where the Colonel Sahib lives."</p>
<p>"Well, do you know where the Salt-Agent Sahib lives?"</p>
<p>"Yes, O representative of God."</p>
<p>"Then take me there."</p>
<p>I had turned away a domestic for being impertinent—a case
of very rare occurrence amongst the natives. He was my own
personal attendant, and an excellent servant, but I would not
allow him to be insolent, and therefore discharged him at once.
For weeks this man stood at the gate of my compound, ran for
miles by the side of my palanquin when I went out in it, and, if
he saw me walking, threw himself on the ground at full length
before me, extending his hands clasped over his head, and then
crept or rather glided on his stomach close to me, kissed my
feet, placed them on his head, and, whilst the tears ran from his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span>
eyes, exclaimed in Hindustanee, "O great being! O representative
of God, have pity on your slave! punish me, whip me,
but let me be your slave, O great king!" One day he brought
his two little boys with him, and made them also kneel at my
feet. He was an old man with a long beard, and he rubbed it
in the dust, and cried and sobbed. I looked at his sons, and
thought of my own children, and, as I considered he had been
sufficiently punished, I told him to get up and I would try him
again. He raised himself on his knees, and kissed the hem of
my garment.<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> He is now the most useful servant I have. He
is a sheikh—Sheikh Ibrahim is his name, and he had served every
one of my predecessors, the chaplains at Cuttack.</p>
<div class="sidenote">NUMBER AND NAMES OF SERVANTS.</div>
<p>I do not know the names of all my servants, but I will mention
a few. Ibrahim is my sirdar, or valet, and chief man; my
bearer is Maqua (which, by the way, is a name in use amongst
the Indians in North America); my water-carrier is Rangore;
my watchman, or chokedar, Sieboo; my sweeper, Ramoo.
These last four are allowed me and paid for by Government:
I give them a trifle in addition to their regular pay.
The cook, or bowachee, is Callipar; and the table-servant,
or khitmutgar, is Pekhoo. We only keep one table-servant;
every one else keeps two, and many four or five. My syce, or
groom, is Saitor; I do not know the names of the coachman,
grass-cutter, tailor, and carpenter, nor of my wife's woman-servant,
or ayah, as she is called. I think these are all our domestics,
except the dobee, or washerman, but I do not know his name.</p>
<p>I believe every one in Bengal keeps more servants than I do.
In the Madras presidency not nearly so many are required, as
one there will do the work of three here. I do not know
how it is in Bombay. I suppose it is on this account that in
the Bengal presidency we receive higher pay than in the other
parts of India. I said that I kept fewer than most people,
but I certainly think I am better served than those who keep
double the number, and I attribute it to this: I never beat
my servants; I scold them, but do not strike them: and I believe</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span></p>
<p>that they exert themselves very much in order that they
may remain with me on that account, for the cruelty practised by
many towards their domestics is most shocking. Yet I firmly
believe that I am better served, and, if I may use the expression,
really loved, for that very reason.</p>
<p>When a servant is ill it is usual to stop his wages entirely:
this I think wrong, and I therefore only stop half, which is
another inducement to them to exert themselves in order to
remain with me. I will give an instance of the sort of exertion
to which I allude. When I packed the last box for England,
my carpenter was ill; my cook is a very handy sort of man, so
I called him, and desired him to nail up the box; he did it
without a moment's hesitation. Almost any other cook would
rather have left his situation than have done what he did not
consider his work.</p>
<p>Again, I do not know any other person who can get one man to
wait on both the sahib and the mem. My khitmutgar not only
does this, but also cleans my gun, and sometimes goes out shooting
with me; when he is thus engaged the cook supplies his
place. These are the advantages of kindness.</p>
<p>It is a common saying that the Hindus have no sense of
gratitude, that they have not even a word to express that
feeling in their language. I do not believe it, and will give
you a case in point. When we are going to travel we pay the
money for the bearers into the hands of the postmasters beforehand;
he then orders the men to be ready at each stage, and he
subsequently sends them their pay. At one stage, as I was
going to Midnapore some time ago, the men complained to me
that they had not received their money for many months. I
questioned them, and, finding their story probable, I promised to
speak to the postmaster, and also offered to carry a petition from
them to him. This I did; there had been a fault somewhere,
but not, I believe, with the postmaster. However, the poor
men got their money.</p>
<p>Since that time, whenever I go along the road, as soon as I
come to that place a man calls out, "Here is the kind sahib
that took our letter for us;" and although the stage is ten<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span>
miles in length, yet they carry me over it in less time than it
takes me to go a six-mile stage elsewhere. My palkee is a
heavy one, but they literally run as fast as they can the whole
way; and two additional men always go with them without
asking for any pay. Is not this something like gratitude?</p>
<div class="sidenote">HONESTY OF NATIVES.</div>
<p>They are said to be extremely dishonest—I mean the natives
generally. This also I deny; although their treatment by
individuals is enough to make them so; for on the part of
Government the error—if any—lies in an excess of mildness
and lenity. I would not hesitate, if it were necessary, to
intrust a thousand rupees to a servant to take to Calcutta:
that is for him a fifteen days' journey. Yet, if he chose, he
might easily get beyond my reach; and such a sum would be
sufficient to purchase an estate which would render himself
and his descendants landed proprietors and gentlemen. I doubt
whether you could say more than that for English honesty;
although, of course, there may be exceptions here as well as
there.</p>
<p>After I left Jelasore the other day, I remembered that I
had omitted to lock my patarahs or tin travelling-boxes. There
were many valuable things in them, and when I reached the
first stage they had not then come up; yet I proceeded day
after-day for one hundred and fifty miles without the slightest
uneasiness; and these patarahs, which had passed through the
hands of sixteen men successively, all of the poorest class and
each one alone, arrived at Cuttack in safety one day after myself.
I should not have felt so easy had this occurred in England.
But enough of this subject for the present.</p>
<p>I was riding out with two friends a few days ago near Balasore,
when we saw a cavalcade approaching, consisting of several
armed men, some on horseback others on camels. We inquired
who they were, and learned that it was the escort of Bheere
Singh, who had been on a pilgrimage to Juggernat'h. We
joined the Rajah and had a long gossip with him.</p>
<p>The first salutation was a salaam on both sides, that is,—we
bowed almost to the necks of our horses, pressing the palms of
our right hands against our foreheads. The Rajah, being more<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span>
polite, or having better command of his horse, salaamed with
both hands. I shall describe the man, because, judging from the
present state of his country, it is possible that he may hereafter
figure in the history of India. He appeared about forty years
of age, strongly built, but not very tall; large black whiskers,
and the universal moustache, which however was smaller than
usual. There was much fire and animation both in his eyes
and gestures; I should say also that his look betrayed a cunning
and intriguing spirit. He was evidently unwilling to say much
concerning the disturbances which have recently taken place in
his country, but was most anxious to hear our opinions. He said
he had seen the burra lord (great lord), Ellenborough, as he came
through Calcutta; and I wondered whether the real object of his
journey might not have been to see and speak with the Governor-General
rather than to perform his devotions at Pooree.</p>
<p>But one thing struck me especially, and it is a thing highly
to the credit of our Indian Government. Pointing to his retinue,
he said, "This I very much admire. In my own country and
all the native states (that is, states governed by native rajahs), if I
were to go to sleep, I must set my guards round me with their arms
in their hands, and I dare not ask a stranger to carry a thing
for me lest he should run away with it. But directly I come
into the Burra Beebee Company's territories" (the East India
Company is called the Burra Beebee, or the great lady, by all
the natives), "directly I come into their territories, although they
are so vast, so immense, from sea to sea" (and he stretched forth
his hands in every direction), "directly I come there, if I am
weary, I can go to sleep under any tree by the roadside, and I
can tell all my guards to go to sleep also. If I want anything
carried, I can say to the stranger 'Carry it,' and I know it is safe.
Oh! the Burra Beebee Company is a very good great king."</p>
<p>And most assuredly it is so. Wherever we come we give
sound laws, and the people find peace and comparative happiness.
Under the native rajahs all is anarchy, bloodshed, and
oppression. Would that the whole of India were under our
sway, and that our Government would seek, by firm and decisive
measures, to introduce the blessings of Christianity amongst the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span>
thousands and millions of their heathen subjects! I consider
these few words of Bheere Singh to confer far more real honour
on our Government than all their victories.</p>
<div class="sidenote">A MEETING.</div>
<p>How little one knows in England of the pleasure of meeting
with an acquaintance! The other night, as I was travelling and
just dozing in my palanquin, I was roused by a loud voice—"Hulloh,
Acland! what, is that you?" I was out of my
palkee in an instant, and Mr. C., of Talacore, jumped out of
his. What a break in the monotony of the road! and yet there
was one great unpleasantness about it, and that was, we were
obliged, after a few minutes' gossip, each to return to his own
solitary palanquin. He produced some oranges; we sucked one
or two, and then separated.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Cuttack_December_25_1843" id="Cuttack_December_25_1843">Cuttack, December 25, 1843.</a></h2>
<p>Yesterday morning Captain W. sent to ask me whether I
would go out into the jungle with him and try and get some hares.
I did not feel much inclined, as my yearly supply of stores, such as
wine, beer, candles, vinegar, &c. &c., had just arrived from Calcutta.
However I thought that perhaps I should see something
which might amuse me, so I went. At three we started on our
ponies across the tedious sands to the river. The water we
crossed in a boat, and then remounted and rode for some distance
into the jungle: at last down we got. We had fourteen
men with us to beat the jungle.</p>
<div class="sidenote">CHOUDWAR.</div>
<p>We walked along through the wildest scenery, looking for
hares, until we arrived at Choudwar—at least that I believe to
be the name of the place I described once before, which I said
reminded me much of the ancient Petra. There are several
long deep ravines filled with dense jungle, the sides composed
of perpendicular black rock, a sort of iron-stone, in some parts
of which steps have been cut, and in other places great blocks
are lying about irregularly, or forming the foundations of the
houses of the ancient inhabitants.</p>
<p>We had found no game of any sort except porcupines, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span>
abound here. At last we came to a ravine of the shape of an
acute triangle. The lower line was a perpendicular face of
rock of perhaps forty feet in height, the other line was a steep
slope, and all the hollow was filled with thick jungle. Captain
W. and myself were standing about the middle of the lower
line, and we ordered the men that were with us to go down and
beat the bushes in the hollow.</p>
<div class="sidenote">SPORTING.</div>
<p>As they went down I observed to Captain W. that I thought
it looked a likely place for something rather larger than hares.
He replied that the men said there were no wild beasts about
here. He had hardly done speaking when we heard the most
frightful snarling growl proceeding from the bushes down at the
farther point of the angle. "A tiger!" screamed the men, and
ran off in every direction as fast as they could. "Give us the
guns with ball," shouted we; for those in our hands had only
small shot, and the men behind us held our other guns. "It is
a great hyæna!" shouted I, as with another growl an enormous
one sneaked out of the bushes up the bank opposite to that on
which we stood. Bang! went the Captain's gun and mine at
the same time;—down fell the brute, up again, turned round,
yelled, and screamed, inclined to make a rush at us. Bang!
bang! again with the other barrels, and with a scream the animal
bounded off on three legs, his hind thigh having been broken
by one of our balls. "Powder! powder, quickly!" was the cry,
and our men handed us the powder and balls: we reloaded as
quickly as possible, our hands trembling with excitement.</p>
<p>"Give chase!" I shouted, and off we set as hard as we could
run towards the other bank, where the beast was still running,
and turning every now and then to snarl at us. "Coolies,
drive him hither!" cried Captain W., and on we bounded; but
the coolies were not at all willing to obey the command, and so
we had a long chase. "I'll fire; you mind him if he turns,"
exclaimed W. Bang! A yell from the hyæna; and down he
rushes towards me. Bang! he's down—no—up again. Another
shot from Captain W., and over he tumbles and is dead in
a few minutes.</p>
<p>The excitement of such a chase is very great. I was hot and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span>
tired, and also fat; but when I saw the enormous brute all was
forgotten, and I leaped down the rocks, scrambled up the hills,
and bounded over the bushes, as if I had been a boy.</p>
<p>The hyæna is a cowardly animal, although he has immense
strength both of jaw and paw. Had this been a tiger, he would
at the first wound have flown at us, and perhaps killed us before
we had time to load again; but the hyæna rarely turns upon
the hunters unless he sees that all escape is hopeless. I had no
idea that these animals were so large. This was little if at all
less than a full-grown tiger. He did not spring out like the
latter would have done, but sneaked along as if he thought his
horrid ugliness would protect him.</p>
<p>As we were coming home over the sands, I asked Captain W. if
he did not mean to discharge his gun before he went in. "Yes,"
said he, "and there is a target," pointing to a large black pariah
dog, which was feasting on some rotten carrion at a considerable
distance. We dismounted, took our guns, and Captain W. fired.
The ball struck the sand between the animal's legs, and he stared
round him as if to know what it meant. Captain W.'s next shot
struck the sand close to the dog's nose. Off he started, when I
raised my gun and fired, and he rolled over dead. This was a
useless piece of cruelty; the killing the hyæna was right, because
these animals do much mischief among the cattle, and will also
carry away young children; but the dogs are in a great measure
our scavengers, and carry off all sorts of filth.</p>
<p>The only other things we fired at were some jackals and a white-headed
falcon. The former we missed; the latter I killed. The
miner is a pretty bird, of which I have before spoken. I consider
it good eating, although most persons have a prejudice against it,
as not being a very clean feeder. They fly in large flocks. The
other day, with a small charge of shot, I killed five at once. The
parrots are very destructive to the fruit, especially the custard-apple;
I therefore frequently shoot them in my own garden.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span></p>
<h2><a name="Cuttack_January_2_1844" id="Cuttack_January_2_1844">Cuttack, January 2, 1844.</a></h2>
<p>I have been to Pooree; but what I am going to relate now is
an adventure, not of my own, but of some valiant officers of the
regiment stationed here. The Captain, the Lieutenant, the Ensign,
and a Serjeant, went out for a day's shooting; and I had the
story from two separate individuals of the party. They rode to
the ground, and then skirted for some time along the side of the
dense jungle. At last the Captain says—"Well, I am tired; I
shan't go any farther. Bring me my camp-stool." Fancy a
man's taking a camp-stool when he goes out to hunt or shoot!
However, down he sat; and the other three proceeded some way
farther. At length the Lieutenant says—"Well, <em>I</em> am tired; I
shan't go any farther. Give me my camp-stool." Down he sat;
and on went the other two, until the Ensign said—"Well, I am
tired; I shan't go any farther. Give me my camp-stool." And
he sat down.</p>
<p>The Serjeant, with one native, now proceeded down a narrow
path which led into the jungle. He had not been gone more than
five minutes when the Ensign heard the report of a gun, and the
next instant the Serjeant rushed out of the jungle, without his hat,
without his gun, with his mouth wide open, eyes staring, and hair
all on end. "What's the matter, Serjeant?" cries the Ensign.
"A tiger, sir," says the other, without stopping. "A tiger?"
"Ay." Down goes the Ensign's gun over his camp-stool, and
off he starts after the Serjeant as fast as his legs can carry him.
"Hulloh!" exclaims the Lieutenant, as they came rushing towards
him: "why, what's in the wind now?" "A tiger! a tiger!"
they shout. Down goes the Lieutenant's gun, and he quickly
joins in the race. "What in the world are you all after?" cries
the Captain, as they came to where he was comfortably sitting,
drinking a bottle of beer, and smoking a cigar. "A tiger! a
tiger! a tiger!" is again the reply. "Pooh, pooh, nonsense!"
said the Captain, moving slowly towards his horse. "Nonsense!"
answered the fugitives; "we tell you there is a tiger down there:
go and see yourself." "No, I am tired," says the Captain; "I
shall go home." And he jumped on his horse, and, followed by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span>
his brave comrades, galloped back to Cuttack. How the natives
did grin and chuckle. They, too, had seen the frightful monster,
and knew that it was a poor harmless jackal which had put to
flight the Captain, and the Lieutenant, and the Ensign, and the
Serjeant!!!</p>
<p>But there is moral to this tale. Another officer asked the Serjeant
afterwards why he ran away? The answer was, that he ran
at first because he was alone and unsupported, and that he ran
afterwards because he saw the officers run. And this will ever be
the case. If the officers show a firm front, so will the men: if the
officers waver or hesitate, it will naturally strike a panic into the
minds of those who are accustomed to look up to them for guidance.
Remarkable instances of both these positions we have
recently had at Jellalabad and Kabul.</p>
<div class="sidenote">COSTUME REGULATIONS.</div>
<p>I start on Friday next for Balasore. I go principally for the
sake of exercise and shooting. There are a great many bears there.
My wife has just hired a new woman-servant. She is of the Ooriah
Mehanee caste, and therefore may not wear petticoats, but only
the common native dress. Now, all ladies like their own personal
servants to wear petticoats; but here it is so strictly forbidden,
that the woman, if she were once to put them on, would be deserted
by her husband and children, and never be suffered to eat with
any of her tribe. But then the Hindu law, whilst it is thus severe
on any breach of caste, provides an easy mode of getting over the
difficulty. My wife gives the woman eight shillings: the woman
gives half of this to the priest, and with the other half she provides
a feast for her tribe. After this she may wear her petticoats
in peace and security.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Barripore_January_5_1844" id="Barripore_January_5_1844">Barripore, January 5, 1844.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">MIRAGE AT POOREE.</div>
<p>There is one part of the sands at Pooree, on which if you stand
about the middle of the day, and look towards the north, you are
surprised to observe in the distance an English town. You see
several three-storied houses, with doors and windows: interspersed
here and there are several very English-looking trees; and at a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span>
short distance, standing on a small hill, you see the ruins of a large
castle, with the green ivy clinging to it in many parts. Often
have I stood and gazed upon this scene, for it reminds me of dear
England. And yet, if you go to the place, what do you suppose
you find? Nothing but one long flat bed of loose sand, without
one vestige of a tree.</p>
<p>The appearance is caused solely by the refraction of the rays
of light. To explain this I will give an example. If you hold a
stick so that the lower part is in the water and the upper part in
the air, the stick will appear to be bent at the point where it
passes the surface of the water; or, place a shilling in a cup or
basin, so that you cannot see it because the side of the cup hides
it from you, fill the cup with water, and then you will see the
shilling, although it is still in the same spot it was in before.
This bending of the rays is what is called refraction, and is caused
by the rays passing out of one transparent thing into another
which is more or less dense than the first. I think that the cause
of the mirage at Pooree is this. Hot air is less dense than cold
air. The steam which comes from a kettle is still water, but it
occupies a much larger space than the water did. One kettle of
water will give much more than a kettlefull of steam, so that it is
evident that the heat has made the water occupy a much larger
quantity of space. Still the steam is only water; therefore it
must be much less dense than cold water. If you filled a saucepan
with water, and fastened the lid down, so that no steam could
escape, it would burst it: the particles of heat cause the particles
of water to be less closely connected together. But that is a subject
too abstruse for this work.</p>
<p>Well, hot air, like hot water, is less dense than cold air; also
water is more dense than air. You could not run along as
quickly in the water as you could in the air; you could not strike
a person with your hand under water hard enough to hurt him;
and this is because the water is more dense or solid than air:
therefore, air with a good deal of moisture in it is more dense
than when dry. But along the hot sands of Pooree, close to the
sea-shore, there must be a great deal of heat and also a great deal
of moisture.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span></p>
<p>In the direction in which you look to see the mirage I mentioned,
there is a small piece of stagnant water from which much
moisture must arise under the burning heat of the sun; consequently
there must be much refraction in all directions. And
this is seen in looking the right way from all parts of the Pooree
sands; and from the particular point to which I have alluded, this
picture, owing, I suppose, to certain marks in the sand, assumes
the appearance of a castle, houses, &c. All this is a very rough
explanation; but it may serve to give you some idea of the probable
cause of the mirage. Ships have sometimes appeared to be
sailing in the air from the same cause; and distant coasts, which
were far below the horizon, have been distinctly seen by means of
the refraction.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Guzzeepuddee_8_miles_from_Balasore_January_12" id="Guzzeepuddee_8_miles_from_Balasore_January_12">Guzzeepuddee, 8 miles from Balasore, January 12.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">SPORTING.</div>
<p>Yesterday morning about four o'clock we started from Balasore
on horseback. The party consisted of the magistrate, the
surgeon, and myself. It was a brilliant moonlight, but somehow
I thought I should like to finish my night's rest, and therefore
soon got into my palanquin, and had a most comfortable
nap. I was awakened at daybreak by my bearers stopping and
telling me that they did not know the way to Guzzeepuddee. I
got out of my palanquin, loaded my gun, inquired my way of
the first native I saw, sent my palanquin on, and then with two
servants entered the jungle. Whereabout the magistrate and the
doctor were I had not the slightest idea. I had a delightful
ramble through a jungle, many of the natives following me from
each village through which I passed, and appearing to take great
interest in the success of my sport.</p>
<p>I went on, with my broad-brimmer hat and brown leather
gaiters, followed by twenty or thirty black fellows, forcing my
way through the thickest, densest shrubberies, thinking at every
instant that I might come suddenly on a large bear. Every now
and then a break would occur in the jungle, and I would emerge
from the tangled thicket into a broad open space of three or four<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span>
acres, covered with the smoothest turf, interspersed here and
there with the graceful bamboo, and surmounted on all sides
with a literal wall of trees and underwood. On their branches
sat the splendid wild fowls and the beautiful peacocks, whilst
from all sides I heard the soft cooing of the doves.</p>
<p>Then again I would find myself in a similar open space; but
instead of the turf there was a broad sheet of water, with the
red and white lotus-flowers floating on the surface, and the glittering
white paddy-bin (a sort of small stock) stretching along
the edge. A little farther on I came suddenly on a large jheel
(a piece of shallow muddy water), with the heron and the pelican,
and I think the spoonbill, standing on the sides and busily
catching their breakfast of fish. Several of the most curious of
the birds I shot, in order to preserve their skins, and occasionally,
as a hare darted across my path, I would raise my gun and
fire. But one bird I must describe more particularly.</p>
<p>I was standing by the side of a large jheel, when a native
called out, "A bird, very good: look, sir." I looked in the direction
in which he pointed, but could see nothing, and was
going to scold him, when he said, "It will come." I continued
watching, when presently I saw what appeared to be a
long snake rising from the water. It was some little time before
I could make up my mind that this was actually part of a
bird, and by that time the long neck was again drawn under
water, and nothing was visible.</p>
<div class="sidenote">A WATER-RACE.</div>
<p>I continued to watch, and presently, at some yards from the
spot where it had before appeared, the same snaky form was
again elevated into the air. It was almost like shooting at a
reed, but however I raised my gun and fired. There was an
instant struggle in the water, and then I saw the body of a
large dark-coloured bird floating on the surface. Wishing to
obtain the body, I turned to the natives and said, "The man
that wants a pice, bring that bird to me." The pice is a little
more than a farthing, but enough to find a family for a day.
Six or eight boys and men dashed into the water, and there
was a regular race, struggling and swimming in order to obtain
the prize. One boy had just reached the spot, when suddenly it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span>
disappeared; now the long neck rose in a different place, and
again there was a rush to obtain the pice. The bird, which was
evidently much wounded, began to move across the water, keeping
its long neck about eighteen inches above the surface, no
other part being visible. I was running round the banks to have
another shot, when the bird suddenly rose, and, with its long legs
extending behind, flew over the jungle. I saw it fall at a short
distance, but the bushes were so thickly matted together that I
could not get near the place.</p>
<p>As I advanced farther from Balasore the natives of the village
appeared astonished at my appearance, many of them probably
never having seen a white man before. Some stood still staring
at me, others ran and hid themselves in their houses. At last I
came to a large open space of a mile or more in diameter, and
here a most singular scene presented itself. Throughout the
whole extent of the space, large masses of black rock, perfectly
smooth and rounded at the edges, rose at intervals to the height
of twelve or sixteen feet, at an angle of about 70°. It appeared
as if some mighty city had been swept over by a hurricane, and
all the walls were tottering to their fall.</p>
<p>Some time after this, to my great satisfaction, I arrived at the
tent, which had been sent there the day before, and found a
plentiful breakfast ready, and the rest of the party anxiously
awaiting my arrival. I had been nearly six hours on foot. Our
tent is about eighteen feet square, with one pole in the centre, a
table and chairs inside, and our palanquins, in which we sleep at
night, standing under a sort of canvas verandah. There is another
very small tent for a bath-room, and also a part composed
of a single piece of canvas for the servants. The latter is about
thirty feet long and fifteen broad.</p>
<div class="sidenote">ENCAMPMENT.</div>
<p>And now let us look around the encampment. The immediate
neighbourhood consists of rice-fields, from which the paddy has
been cut. At about half a mile from the tents on either side is
a thick jungle, and in the distance are the rugged and magnificent
hills of the Neilghur, which I have already described.</p>
<p>At six o'clock in the evening the sun was just setting as we
three sahibs returned from our day's shooting. The magistrate<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span>
is just washing his hands in a chillumchee, or brass basin, at the
door of the tent. In the front-ground, on two chairs, are seated
the doctor and myself; the former is having his long leather
gaiters or overalls pulled off. I have one foot in a chillumchee
of warm water, the other resting on the black knee of one of my
servants, who is shampooing and cracking each joint of the toes.
Now he has done that, wiped the foot dry, put on the shoe, and
is squeezing or kneading each muscle in the calf of the leg. No
one but those who have experienced it can have any idea what
a luxury this is when you are very tired!</p>
<p>Behind us stands a long-bearded turbaned khitmutgar, with
sherry and glasses. Our guns are leaning against the side of the
tent, our horses are picketed to a tree close by, and the grooms
are busily rubbing them down. A hundred or a hundred and
fifty black natives are separating into groups according to their
castes, and are lighting fires all around in order to cook their
dinners. Behind the servants' tent is a fire of charcoal, over
which a black man is turning a hare, some partridges, a peacock,
and several other results of our day's sport. Close by is
another fire of wood crackling and sparkling, on which are stew-pans
with salmon, oysters, &c. &c., which have come from
England.</p>
<p>It grows late: the moon rises over the hills; the fires blaze up
in all directions; I see the swarthy natives moving around them,
and hear them chattering or singing their low monotonous song;
everything looks wild; I begin to indulge in all sorts of reveries—when
a man approaches with his hands clasped together, and,
bending low before me, says "Cana meg" (dinner-table). The
peacock takes the place of the reverie; visions of the partridges
and oysters flit across my mind; and I run to help in demolishing
a most substantial and well-earned meal. I then go to my palkee.
The howling of the jackals does not awake me, I am too
well used to it; but at last, about two o'clock in the morning, I
was aroused by a sort of sniffing and a scratch at the door. I
guessed at once what it was, and debated for an instant whether
I should open it a little and try the effect of my pistols, or call
out so as to rouse my companions, or lie still and leave him to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span>
himself. I determined on the latter; as, supposing I had not
killed him, my visitor might have come into my palanquin and
killed me before I could get assistance. I therefore lay quietly
with a pistol in my hand; and I felt much happier when I heard
the bear at last trot off.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Barripore_January_16_1844" id="Barripore_January_16_1844">Barripore, January 16, 1844.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">THE NEILGHUR HILLS.</div>
<p>On Friday morning the magistrate and myself determined to
ascend one of the Neilghur hills. The doctor did not think it
worth the fatigue, and therefore shot partridges and wild-ducks
for our breakfasts. We started from our tents at about half-past
five in the morning. For about four miles our road lay through
jungle, similar to that I have already described.</p>
<p>As we emerged from this the effect was most extraordinary.
We had been suffering much from heat, and the sudden exclamation
of both of us was, "Oh, how very cold!" A chilling blast
came down from the hills, which entirely altered the temperature
of the air; and, moreover, the place where we now were can very
rarely, if ever, be reached by the sun. These causes produce a
most singular effect upon the vegetation. Behind us was a dense
jungle of bamboos, brambles, cacti, &c., through which it was
most difficult to force a passage. In front of us for nearly a
mile—that is, extending to the foot of the hills—the appearance
was altogether different: not a bamboo nor a cactus, not a bramble,
scarcely even a thorn; the turf perfectly smooth; the only
plants a sort of laurel and a species of wild-apple; and no two
plants growing within four feet of each other. It was like a
wilderness or a shrubbery in a gentleman's park. We found
several marks of bears and also of elephants; and the natives were
rather unwilling to proceed. However, we led the way, with our
guns in our hands, and soon arrived at the foot of the hill. It
rose very suddenly, and in many places we had to climb for
several feet up the face of a smooth black rock, similar to that
which I have already mentioned.</p>
<p>We had no adventures beyond a tumble or two, but it was a
most fatiguing work; and the instant we reached the top we<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span>
threw ourselves down and called for a cigar and a glass of beer.
This hill, which is much the lowest of the whole range, is not, I
suppose, more than five hundred feet in height: it rises to a peak,
the extreme top being about six feet in diameter. Here we fired
off our guns as a signal to the doctor, and then commenced our
descent.</p>
<p>At the bottom we were very glad to mount our horses and
ride back to the tent. It was a very clear morning, and you can
hardly imagine the wild magnificence of the scene from the top.
Behind us lay the thick jungle through which we had passed,
with Balasore in the distance, and the sea forming the background;
in front, a wilderness of brushwood, extending as far
as the eye could reach; to the right was a winding river, bordered
by the graceful bamboo, with native villages and patches of rice-fields
on its banks; whilst to the left, from the midst of the
thickets, rose abruptly the other hills, towering to the height of
several thousand feet. All these ranges belong to tributary
rajahs, and are not the property of the English. We were delighted
with our excursion, and it has led to the proposal of
another, which we hope to accomplish, with the addition to our
party of the doctor and the master-attendant, as soon as I return
from Cuttack.</p>
<p>This second expedition is to be to the highest point visible from
Balasore. No human being has ever yet ascended it, and the
natives pretend that it is impracticable; however, we mean to try.
I should like to set my foot where no man has ever trodden.
We shall go well armed with guns, pistols, and swords; we are
also each to carry a hatchet and a billhook, to cut our way through
the jungle.</p>
<p>We intend to take a barometer and thermometer in order to
measure the height, and go well attended by natives. It is said
that this hill is tenanted by all sorts of wild beasts, but we shall
be too well armed to fear them. The inhabitants are a very
savage race, and offer up human sacrifices; but they will hardly
dare to attack white men. I am very fond of these excursions;
the exercise I consider good for me—whilst at Guzzeepuddee
I was ten or eleven hours on my feet each day; and another<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span>
great advantage is, that they cost nothing beyond the price of
powder and shot. I must now start for Cuttack. I found in
the jungle the skeleton of a small boa constrictor: it is perfect
except the lower jaw. I told one of my servants to take care of
it. When I returned to Balasore he had lost it; I said, if he
did not find it again I should deduct a rupee from his month's
wages. His answer was, "O representative of God, you are the
father and the mother of your slave, and you must do with him as
you think fit." However, he managed to find the skeleton.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Midnapore_February_1_1844" id="Midnapore_February_1_1844">Midnapore, February 1, 1844.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">BHABANESWAR AND CUNDEGANEE.</div>
<p>When I returned to Cuttack the last time I found that my wife
had been rather poorly for some days; I therefore determined
that I would take her out for a little excursion. We accordingly
sent out a tent and all necessary apparatus, and then started with
some friends of ours—a Captain of Engineers and his wife, and a
couple of children—to explore two of the most extraordinary
places in India, Bhabaneswar and Cundeganee. At the former
there are nine hundred and ninety-nine temples, besides numerous
tombs, &c.: at the latter place some very high hills, perforated
in every direction with artificial caves; a palace, statues, and
animals, cut out of the solid rock; long inscriptions in some
language now forgotten; images of gods, of which the Hindus
know nothing.</p>
<p>The trip did my wife a great deal of good; but almost immediately
after our return to Cuttack I was attacked by one of the
fearful diseases of the country. Fortunately I knew what it was
by the very first symptoms, and therefore went to the doctor at
once. The disease is what we call <i>liver</i>; in England it is called,
I think, inflammation of the liver. It is accompanied by a soreness
in the side and acute pain in the shoulder. The doctor immediately
took most energetic pains to reduce me both in size
and in strength, and he succeeded so well that all danger was soon
over. Directly I was better I was ordered change of air, starvation,
and exercise.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span></p>
<h2><a name="February_15_1844" id="February_15_1844">February 15, 1844.</a></h2>
<p>I feel quite well again: we start for the hills this afternoon.
The party consists of seven Europeans and about one hundred
natives. It happened rather curiously that the Rajah to whom
the hill belongs called here this morning on business: he is a
very intelligent young man. He has volunteered to accompany
us, to supply us with elephants if we wish to hunt upon the plain,
and to provide us an escort of five hundred men; so we shall go in
state. He rode a magnificent white horse with <em>pink eyes</em>. We
each take a small axe, a pair of pistols, and two guns.</p>
<p>But before proceeding I would enter into more particulars
concerning the excursion that we took for the benefit of my wife's
health. On Monday we all started at half-past five in the morning—Captain
R. and myself on horseback, and Mrs. R. and
my wife in palanquins, having their ponies led by their side.
We had about one hundred and twenty servants with us, Captain
R. having a good deal of surveying and other work to do.</p>
<p>As we went along the road he stopped to inspect the different
bridges, &c. We had one little adventure this morning. It
seems that some months ago a beyraghee, or mendicant, sat himself
down by the side of the road, a few miles from Cuttack,
with nothing but an umbrella to shade him from the sun. There
he remained for some weeks, subsisting on the charity of the
pilgrims who were proceeding to Juggernat'h. I should have
mentioned that our road lay, for a considerable distance, on the
direct route for Pooree. After some time the beyraghee made
himself a little hut of wicker-work, after the fashion of many of
the Indian devotees. These baskets, as I may call them, are
just large enough to contain a man in a lying-down position;
they are, in fact, mere coverings.</p>
<p>By degrees the basket became a good-sized mud hut; then the
beyraghee began to enclose a small piece of ground, which he
cultivated, and built himself a granary of bamboo to contain the
rice given him by the pilgrims. Now, although a man with an
umbrella does not much matter, yet a hut with a little field,
around which a village is likely enough to spring up, cannot be
allowed upon the roadside, which belongs to Government.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span></p>
<p>The man had been warned, but paid no attention to what was
said; and accordingly, when we reached the spot, Captain R.
directed the chuprapees, or Government messengers, to pull down
the fence and destroy the hut, granary, &c. We sat on our
horses while these men obeyed the order. In a quarter of an
hour the whole was level with the ground. I knew that Captain
R. was perfectly right, yet I could not help pitying the poor
man, who came and laid himself down at our horses' feet, with
his hands clasped over his head. Like many of the beyraghees,
he was entirely naked. They are a worthless, wicked set of
men, and peculiarly obnoxious to Europeans. It was a singular
scene. Captain R. and myself, with our broad-brimmed hats,
sitting quietly on our sturdy ponies; a half-naked groom at the
head of each; the naked beyraghee at our feet; and a dozen
chuprapees, in the white native dress, with red badges, hewing
the house and fence to pieces, and scattering the remains on all
sides under the grove of mangoes with which the road was bordered.
In the distance were the palanquins, whilst the wild song
of the bearers faintly reached our ears.</p>
<div class="sidenote">ENCAMPMENT AT BENGWHARRIE</div>
<p>Nothing of interest occurred after this until we arrived at
Bengwharrie, a small village, where our tents were pitched under
a grove, or, as we call it, a "tope," of splendid trees. I have
already described the appearance of a private encampment; the
only difference here was that we had a greater number of men
about us, and more tents. Mine contains one room, about twenty-four
feet square; in the centre rises the high pole which supports
our canvas house. At each end are cloth doors, made to roll up.
The tent has a double fly or covering, one much larger than the
other; it is like a small one inside a large one. This tends to
keep it warm at night, and cool during the day; the outer fly
forms a verandah round the inner room. In the latter are two
small camp bedsteads, a camp table, camp chairs, &c. By camp
bedsteads, &c., I mean such as will double up for the convenience
of carriage. In the verandah are our palanquins, a chest of
wine, beer, &c., some cooling apparatus, and various other articles.
At one side there is an entrance into a small tent, which
serves for a bathing-room.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span></p>
<p>After breakfast, we were very much interested in watching the
monkeys. The tope swarmed with a grey species, some of which
appeared almost as large as men. They are peculiarly sacred in
the eyes of the Hindus, who imagine that one of their gods
once assumed a similar form. They are called Hunnamuns,
which was the name of that deity. My wife and I stood at the
door of the tent watching them for hours; they do not appear to
be afraid of men. Many of the females had young ones with
them, and they came and sat down close to us with their little
ones in their laps. First they would suckle them, then they
would hush them to sleep, or turn them over and over, pulling
off all the dirt that adhered to their skins, and making them
clean and comfortable.</p>
<p>A little farther off you would see four or five males picking
the fruit off a low bush, and chattering to one another all the
time. Then a half-grown one would jump down, and give a
hard pull at an old one's tail, for which he generally received a
good box on the ear, unless he was nimble enough to get out of
the way in time; presently one of the old fellows would get
angry, and spring into the tree after his little tormentor, and a
regular chase would ensue. The leaps they take are tremendous;
they will often spring from the top of a lofty tree into the middle
of the next without falling.</p>
<p>I saw one of the females shot; it was a cruel sight, and struck
all the natives with horror. They refused to touch the dead
body. The ball did not kill her instantly, and she cried piteously,
whilst she pressed her little one to her bosom, and tried to
get into the tree. To the last she would not relinquish her
young one, and died in endeavouring to save it. I could not
shoot a monkey, their actions and their cries are so like human
beings. I know of a case in which an officer shot one, and the
whole herd instantly sprang from the trees and attacked him; it
was with difficulty he was saved. They are most interesting
creatures.</p>
<div class="sidenote">CROW-PHEASANT.</div>
<p>In the evening I went out with my gun, accompanied by
Captain R. I got nothing, however, but some doves and some
crow-pheasants; the latter are not eaten by Europeans, though<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span>
much relished by the low-caste natives. It is a bird, as the name
signifies, between a crow and a pheasant. The colour is black,
tinged with a deep dull red. It has a long tail, and runs like a
pheasant; but I believe that its food is the same as a crow's,
that is, carrion and animal food.</p>
<div class="sidenote">GAME.</div>
<p>On the Tuesday morning Captain R. was lazy, so I started by
myself at six o'clock to try and get some jungle-fowl. When I
say by myself, I of course mean with three or four servants. I,
however, shot nothing but a few doves and one green pigeon.
The latter is a large bird, of a pale-green colour, and is most
delicious eating, which is more than can be said of any of the
game in India. The partridges are dry and flavourless; the
deer have literally not a particle of fat upon them; the hares are
fit for nothing but soup. A leveret is good, and so is a very
young peacock, but, old or young, they must be eaten the same
day that they are killed. By the by, the black partridge is
pretty good: it has a black neck, shading into deep red on the
head; the back is dark; the breast and tail are most beautifully
covered with minute white spots.</p>
<p>I may as well mention now that we shot the other day a double-spurred
partridge; it was of a dingy red colour, with a crest on
its head; the legs were bright red, and each armed with two
long sharp spurs. As I walked along I observed a bird of a
species which I had never seen before; I tried to shoot it, in
order to have it stuffed, but missed, and sadly frightened some
monkeys who were in the same tree. As far as I could judge,
every feather was a bright blue, giving a most splendid appearance
to the bird.</p>
<div class="sidenote">MANGO-BIRD.</div>
<p>After breakfast Captain R. and I stood at the door of the tent
amusing ourselves with his air-gun. I killed with it three or
four birds, whose skins I should like to preserve; one especially,
though I believe I have before described it, namely, the
mango-bird. I fancy the European name is the golden oriole.
It is of one uniform brilliant yellow, with the exception of the
head, which is perfectly black. Its note is very peculiar, as
indeed are the voices of many of the Indian birds. I cannot
describe the sounds on paper, but I have learned to imitate many<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span>
of them well enough to hold a long conversation with them.
Once or twice, when Captain R. wanted to get near to a bird without
being observed, he asked me to continue talking to it. It is
curious to observe them hopping from branch to branch replying
to my call, and looking round on every side for the bird from
which they suppose the sound to proceed.</p>
<p>On Tuesday evening Captain R. and I rode about four miles to
try and find some peacocks. His pony had hurt its foot, so he
took one of mine. We were going along quietly enough through
some rice-fields, when suddenly the pony he was on shied; he
spurred it, and it immediately reared and fell over backwards.
Most fortunately he managed to throw himself off, so as to escape
being under the horse, though, as it was, he got a heavy tumble.
It is a very nice pony, a little inclined to rear; but I am too
heavy for it to do so with me. I am getting thinner now. We
came at last to a beautiful bit of bamboo-jungle, where we dismounted,
inside of which was a paddy-field; in the centre were
two fine cocks and five hens feeding. Beckoning to the servants
to stay behind, I crouched down on the ground and crept slowly
forward, until I came very near to the jungle-fowl, when I cautiously
raised my gun to fire; from some cause or other it did
not go off, though the cap exploded, and the birds flew away.
Now, a regular Indian sportsman would not fire at a bird on the
ground, but would first make a noise to frighten him, and would
then fire as he was flying away; however, I am not practised
enough for that, and like to get what they call a pot-shot whenever
I can.</p>
<div class="sidenote">SPORTING.</div>
<p>A little while ago a party of officers went out from Cuttack to
shoot. Their men were beating the jungle, when suddenly all
the wild cry ceased, and a man came gliding to where all the
sahibs were standing to tell them that there was a tiger lying
asleep in his den close at hand. A consultation was instantly
held; most of the party were anxious to return to Cuttack, but
Captain B. insisted on having a shot at the animal. Accordingly
he advanced very quickly until he came to the place, when he
saw—not a tiger, but a large leopard lying quite still, with his
head resting on his fore paws. He went up close and fired, but<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span>
the animal did not move. This astonished him, and on examination
he found that the brute was already dead. One of his companions
had bribed some Indians to place a dead leopard there
and to say that there was a tiger asleep. You may imagine what
a laugh there was, though it was very wrong of the Europeans to
encourage the natives to say what was not true.</p>
<p>Since then a large party has been out from Cuttack on a
shooting excursion: they found five leopards, two sambres (the
largest species of deer), and four of the Indian bisons or ghyal,
of whose horns I have preserved a specimen. They however
killed only one leopard.</p>
<p>But I must hasten on with my description. Captain R. and I
proceeded into the jungle, where we heard several peacocks; we
separated, creeping along in different directions. Presently I
came to an open space where some pea-fowls were feeding, but we
did not succeed in killing anything. The next evening we went
to the same place, when Captain R. shot a peacock. Towards
dusk I was creeping along, when suddenly I saw what appeared
to me a fine peahen. I signed to my men to be quiet, got as near
as I could, fired, and shouted to my followers to run and pick up
the bird, for it was dead. An Indian servant rarely loses his
gravity; but in this instance they could not restrain themselves
when they found that instead of a pea-fowl I had knocked to
pieces the skull of an old cow which had been half-picked by the
vultures; in the dim light I had mistaken it for a bird.</p>
<div class="sidenote">BHOHONESWAR.</div>
<p>The next day we proceeded about ten miles farther to
Bhalmacottee; and on the day following, that is Friday, we
started at five o'clock in the morning for Bhohoneswar. On the
way we passed the remains of a very large old fort built of hewn
stone. In one of the moats, which was still full of water, I saw
the remains of a pier of a bridge. Bhohoneswar is a very
ancient town, much more so than Pooree: it is celebrated for containing
nine hundred and ninety-nine temples. The natives say
that, had there been a thousand, Juggernat'h would have taken
up his abode here; but as there were not he preferred having a
new temple for himself at Pooree. The ancient city has disappeared,
and the town only consists of a few hundred mud<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span>
huts. The temples however remain—some perfect, others in
ruins; some facing the street of the modern town, others half
hidden in the surrounding jungle. It is a wonderful place, and
I hardly know how to describe it.</p>
<p>At one extremity of the town is a tank, about half a mile
square, and of a great depth, entirely faced with huge blocks of
black iron-stone. In the centre of this stands a small temple,
whilst the sides are surrounded by others of greater or less size.
At the end next the town an enormous flight of steps leads
down to the water, where hundreds of pilgrims were hastening to
wash themselves before entering the great temple. The farther
end is bordered by a dense and lofty jungle, and in the distance is
a splendid background of rugged hills.</p>
<p>After leaving the burrah tellores (great tank) we walked
through a lane of temples, many of which were ruinous, until we
came to the grand sacred edifice of the place. The form of this,
as indeed of most of the others, is similar to that of Pooree. The
temple of Bhohoneswar is however larger, the principal tower
being about two hundred feet high. Like all the others, it is
built entirely of stone, and every block is most elaborately carved.
The various cornices, of elephants, horses, &c., are as beautifully
executed as if they had been done by the best European artists.
The fretwork is most delicate in its livery, and the many images,
though representing grotesque figures, are admirably carved.
The whole forms one mass of most splendid sculpture.</p>
<p>No description would enable the reader to form any idea of
the magnificence of this building. Many of the blocks of stone
are fifteen, twenty, and twenty-five feet in length, and thick in
proportion. It would be curious to discover by what means they
were ever raised to the height of above one hundred feet. This
temple is still sacred, and we were therefore not allowed to enter
it, but we examined the interior of several of the others. The
lofty domes were evidently constructed by a people who were
ignorant of the use of the arch; they are formed of overlapping
stones, approaching nearer and nearer together until they reach
the top, where the whole is surmounted by one enormous block.</p>
<div class="sidenote">CUNDEEGURREE.</div>
<p>We breakfasted in a small tent which we had sent forward to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span>
Bhohoneswar, and then proceeded in our palanquins to Cundeegurree,
a distance of about seven miles. This latter place
consists of three hills surrounded by the most romantic-looking
jungle. Our palanquins were set down in what may be called a
forest, at the foot of the principal hill, and crowned by a small
but very pretty white temple. These hills are perforated in every
direction with caves of various dimensions, and reminded me
most forcibly of the ancient Petra. Many of the caves are inhabited
by devotees and priests. The god whom they worship
is quite unknown to our Hindu servants: he is called Persilat'h,
and is the god of the Jains, who were a powerful race that
existed prior to the introduction of the Hindu religion. There
are very few of them now remaining. The god is represented
as a naked man, standing upright, with his arms hanging down
by his sides. In many of the caves are small images of this
deity beautifully cut in a dark-blue stone.</p>
<p>At the summit is a Jain temple, which has been rebuilt within
the last two hundred years. The Hindus say that the caves are
the works of demons. Above the entrances to many of them are
long inscriptions in a forgotten tongue. Several of the letters
appear to resemble the Greek; but most of them are different
from any known language. The entrance to one of the caverns
is through the mouth of an enormous lion's head, cut out of the
solid rock: it is exceedingly well executed. The pillars about
the doorway are also cut out of the solid rock. Within the lion's
mouth is an inscription in two lines, which I copied.</p>
<p>Many of the caves are large and lofty, others very small:
there are some not high enough for a man to stand upright: of
these latter several have very small entrances; and in these are
devotees who had vowed never to leave them alive. The wonder
seems how they could ever have managed to creep in. I saw
some of these holy men: one of them had entirely lost his sight;
another had his right arm shrivelled, and fixed in an upright
position, with the nails several inches in length growing through
the palm of his hand. What suffering do these heathens endure
for the sake of their religion, whilst we are so unwilling to do
even a little to please the true God! Their superstitions are most<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span>
disgusting; but they are a reproach to us, both for our inertness
in attempting to convert the Hindus, and also for the contrast
they afford to our self-control, who call ourselves Christians.</p>
<p>In the solid rock of these hills have been excavated some tanks;
but the most marvellous thing of all is the palace of the ancient
rajahs. This, like all the rest, is hollowed out of the solid stone,
and consists of two stories; the lower comprises a good-sized
square court, surrounded on all sides by large excavated chambers.
Into this yard you are obliged to descend from above.
The upper floor is similarly cut, except that a large portion of the
rock has been cut away before the entrances were made to the
chambers. The consequence is that there is a broad terrace,
overlooking the rooms beneath, and upon which the several
apartments of the upper story open. What labour must have
been employed in making these extraordinary excavations! The
chambers are narrow, about twelve feet wide, but many of them
are long; speaking from conjecture, I should say that one of
them was not less than forty feet, the length corresponding with
the direction of the side of the quadrangle. The entrance-walls (if
I may call them so) seem to have been much ornamented; but
what struck me most was a statue, cut, of course, out of the solid
rock, and supporting one side of an ornamented entrance to one
of the chambers. This statue, the natives say, is intended to
represent the rajah who founded the palace: it is nearly the size
of life and well preserved. The right arm hangs down by the
side, the left is bent at the elbow, the hand resting on the hip.
On the head appears to be a close helmet, with, I think, scales
down each side of the face. The dress consists of a short shirt of
scale armour reaching down to the thigh; below this hangs a
cloth skirt to the knees; hanging from the shoulders behind is a
short cloak resembling that worn by our modern horsemen;
round the waist is a sash or loose belt; boots reaching half-way
to the knees; and at the side is a double-edged Roman sword.
Now, to what nation or people such a dress as this can have belonged
I cannot conceive. I feel confident that no people of
India have ever worn such garments; yet, when I look at this
dress, and consider the Grecian nature of many of the letters in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span>
the inscriptions, and the un-Indian appearance of the pillars in the
lion's mouth, I cannot help asking myself whether it is possible
that, when Alexander was stopped by the Affghans, any of his
people ventured still farther into the country, and after various
wanderings founded Cundeegurree, as conquerors of the district.
Or, if I wish to turn my speculations in another direction, I may
examine the dress, carved in stone, and that statue, and think of
the name of the reputed founder Lalal, India, Kesari (quære
Cæsar?). All this, however, is mere speculation, as I have no
sufficient data at present by which to arrive at any conclusion.
There is a much longer inscription very correctly copied in
Stirling's 'History of Orissa.'</p>
<p>After spending a most interesting day at Cundeegurree we
returned to Bhalmacottee, from whence my wife and myself came
on to Cuttack on Saturday. I forgot to mention an animal that
we killed; the natives called it a "goodee sampsnake," and said it
was very savage and very venomous, though I imagine it was
nothing but a guana. It is a sort of lizard, with a very tough
scaly skin, about two and a half feet in length, head like that of
a snake, forked tongue, sharp teeth, short legs, armed with long
claws or rather talons. I have preserved and stuffed the skin.</p>
<div class="sidenote">INSCRIPTIONS—ANECDOTE OF AN ELEPHANT.</div>
<p>A gentleman has just been here who told me an interesting
anecdote about an elephant. A friend of his bought one, and
went out hunting with a large party. The animal behaved very
well all day; but in the evening, when they were going to take
off the howdah, the mahout called to the Europeans to stand
farther off, as the elephant appeared to be getting uneasy. He
had hardly spoken when the animal made a rush forward, seized
an unfortunate native, and began trampling upon him with his
enormous feet; a chuprapee who ran forward was seized by
the elephant, and flung to the distance of many feet into the
river; the beast then raised the poor wretch he had been
crushing, and threw him into the jungle, where he was found
with not a bone unbroken; every limb was crushed: of course
he died almost directly. The elephant then ran off, and for
weeks was the terror of the country round—going into the
villages, tearing down the houses to look for corn or rice. At<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span>
last he was caught, and sold to the king of Lucknow, in Upper
India. I should mention that the only limestone hills in this
part of India are those around Cundeegurree.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Pooree_May_26_1844" id="Pooree_May_26_1844">Pooree, May 26, 1844.</a></h2>
<p>How little is known in England of what a thunderstorm is!
At this minute (about ten o'clock in the evening) the rain is
pouring down in vast sheets of water rather than in drops. For
the last two hours the lightning has not ceased for a minute at a
time, whilst the thunder has continued incessantly, varied occasionally
by a tremendous crash which bursts immediately above
the house and shakes it to its very foundation. Add to this the
roaring of the sea and the howling of the wind, and some idea
may be formed of the fearful noise now sounding in my ears. But
the storm is, in one respect, more fearful here than elsewhere;
at this station most of the European houses are blown down once
in two or three years—a process which is anything but comfortable
to the inhabitants, who are compelled to shiver through the
night on the bleak sands, drenched with spray and rain, half
covered with loose sand, and afraid to stand lest they should be
blown away.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="May_29" id="May_29">May 29.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">TEMPERATURE AT CUTTACK AND POOREE.</div>
<p>I find that the depth of water which fell in the two hours
and a half that the storm continued was one inch and a half, a
quantity which in England, I believe, would not fall without
many days of rain. But this is a delightful place. The difference
of climate between this and Cuttack could hardly be conceived,
and yet the distance is only fifty miles. At Cuttack,
during the hot season of the year, the inhabitants are obliged to
close every door and window at half-past six in the morning, in
order to keep out the fearfully scorching heat, neither can they
open them again till seven in the evening. Although the air is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span>
kept in constant motion by the punkahs, yet, being confined, and
also much rarified by the heat, it produces a stifling gasping
sensation, which is most painful. At this time of the year too
the mosquitoes come into the houses in great numbers, and we
are therefore compelled to use the mosquito-curtains at night,
which have no opening all round, and the lower edge of which is
tucked in with the bed-clothes; you might almost as well be
shut up in a box. The intense heat, and the quantity of bad air
which necessarily accumulates under the curtains, cause continual
headaches and oppression of the lungs.</p>
<p>Well, you start from Cuttack in the evening, arrive at Pooree
the next morning, and what a change! The doors and windows
are open all day; and although the thermometer generally stands
at 89°, yet the incessant breeze off the sea prevents any inconvenience
from the heat; indeed, we are sometimes glad to close
the doors in order to keep out the air. At night a delicious
fresh wind, which frequently renders a blanket necessary, no
mosquitoes, no curtains. In the morning we can remain out of
doors till eight; in the afternoon we can go out at five.</p>
<p>How rejoiced many persons would be to be able to spend
their hot weather at such a place. There are, nevertheless, two
great drawbacks to the comfort of Pooree. First, the European
houses are all situated on a vast plain of loose sand, extending
from the sea as far as the eye can reach in every direction; so
that it is considered at Pooree quite impossible to walk.
My wife, like most other ladies, rides in a tonjon, a sort of small
cab, carried on men's shoulders. I and almost all the gentlemen
ride on horseback, or rather ponyback. At Cuttack only rich
civilians keep horses; all we poor men are content with ponies.
I have three beauties: two of them, Birmah ponies, for the
carriage, are of a large size, thick built, very strong, and highly
valued on account of their hardihood. It is usual to keep their
manes cropped close, but I like to see them long. One carries
me very well; the other is a saddle-pony, which does either for
my wife or myself. It is bay, with long black mane and tail,
very sleek, with thin ankles and arching neck. Indeed, several
people who have looked at him say he is the best-built horse<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span>
they ever saw. He is full of fire and play, jumps about, and
every now and then stands upon his hind legs. But he will not
bear to be annoyed by strangers. A friend of mine was riding
him one day, and teased him so much that at last he reared and
fell over backwards with him. The carriage-horses are what
is called sorrel-colour.</p>
<p>The second drawback to the comfort of Pooree is rather a
curious one, and is, I suppose, caused by the wind and the glare
of the sun upon the sands. It is the impossibility for any one
to keep awake during the day. Towards twelve o'clock an
overpowering drowsiness comes on. Once or twice I have
resisted it, and on those occasions I verily believe that in the
evening, had I shut my eyes, I should have gone to sleep upon
my feet. This is the universal complaint of all visitors to that
place. The regular residents get over it.</p>
<p>Talking of the night reminds me of a general habit which
would seem very odd to people in England. A person would
imagine that everybody is very fidgety at night, and rolls and
tosses about a great deal in the very hot weather. To render
ourselves more comfortable at such times we have a number of
pillows of all shapes and sizes and hardnesses scattered about the
bed. At one roll you lay your leg on one and your arm on
another, then you turn over to the other side, and then, throwing
your feet on to one pillow, you hold another fast under your
arm: that won't do, and you roll over on your back, with one
pillow under your knee and another under each arm, and so on
through the night. I can assure you that, however absurd it
may appear, this multiplicity of pillows is a very great comfort
on very hot nights, although when you awake you certainly often
find yourself and them in very funny positions.</p>
<div class="sidenote">INTERVIEW WITH NATIVE RAJAHS.</div>
<p>But now let us describe the journey up the hill, which is
situated in the territories of the Rajah of Neilghur; that is, he
pays tribute to the English, but governs his territory for himself.
Just before we went there, by the advice of the masahibs or
councillors, he had been into one of our villages making a great
disturbance, whereupon the commissioner, a sort of governor of
the district, sent for the Rajah, desiring him to come in to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span>
Balasore and explain his conduct. I was with the commissioner
when he arrived. The Rajah of Neilghur is a handsome intelligent-looking
young man of about twenty. His estate brings
him in a revenue of nearly sixty thousand rupees a-year. His
brother, who is about two years younger, and full of fun and
frolic, is always with him. They came to Balasore with a party
of about thirty, three elephants, and twenty horses. The Rajah
and his brother, with eight or ten of the masahibs, were ushered
into the commissioner's room, where chairs were offered to the
two former; the others remained standing. Of course all except
the two young Rajahs took off their shoes before they entered
the room. Mr. M., the commissioner, who, as I have told you,
is the kindest of men, gave them a long quiet lecture, and
strongly advised them to dismiss the masahibs and govern entirely
for themselves; and he warned them that, if such disturbances
occurred again, he should be obliged to send and take possession
of the whole territory of Neilghur. They were very submissive
and made what excuses they could, but which, in point of fact,
amounted to none at all. At last they rose to take leave, and I
with one or two others joined them.</p>
<p>I immediately told the Rajah that we were going over to
Neilghur on the following day, and asked whether he would
provide five hundred coolies to beat the jungle. The Rajah
promised that he would procure us the coolies and elephants and
make us comfortable. The party then mounted, and really it
was a very pretty scene. Both the Rajahs and all their attendants
were dressed in the purest white—full loose trowsers,
white frocks open on one side of the chest, and white turbans.
The younger brother wore a red sash, all the others white ones.
The Rajahs had most splendid gold chains round their waists,
and three very handsome rings in each ear. The eldest mounted
first. His horse, which was very tall and strongly built, was an
albino; it was perfectly white, with red eyes. The saddle, which
for all natives is made deep and well padded, was covered and
entirely concealed by a splendid crimson cloth extending from
the shoulders to the haunches. It was surrounded by a deep
gold fringe, and reached about half way to the ground on each<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span>
side. The young man laid his hand on the horse's shoulder,
and at one vault sprang into the saddle, the cloth remaining on.
This was the signal for every one to mount, and then they all
began to show off. Their horses played all sorts of antics; they
danced, and plunged, and reared, and capered about, though still
under perfect control; indeed, it was evident that all these tricks
were the result of education. After some minutes spent in
this way, they suddenly started off at full gallop, and tore along
at a tremendous rate as long as they continued in sight. They
were followed by the elephants in a rough trot.</p>
<p>But I must say something more about these elephants. I was
walking through the town with C. the evening before, when we saw
the elephants coming towards us. We were both startled, if not
alarmed. One of them is said to be the largest in India, and it
really did look awful. The others, which were of the ordinary
size, looked like young ones by its side. I had afterwards an
opportunity of measuring it, and, if I remember rightly, its
height was twelve feet eleven inches. It is very old, as Tippoo
Saib rode it at Seringapatam. It is quite blind, and it is most
interesting to observe its manner of walking or running. At
each step its trunk swings from side to side, just touching the
ground in front, so that the animal may know if there is any
impediment in the way. A part near the end of the trunk is
much worn away and quite hardened by this constant rubbing.
His tusks are magnificent, but his body is little more than a
skeleton covered with skin.</p>
<p>Whilst at Neilghur I saw this monster bathe. A boy took
him down to a pond close to our tent. He led him by one of
his tusks. When he reached the water, at an order from his
attendant the elephant held out his trunk and the lad climbed
up it until he reached his tusks. The elephant then raised his
head until they were the highest part, when the boy slipped off
them on the head itself. The animal then walked slowly into
the water until it reached the top of his legs; at a signal from
the boy he then lay down, whilst the lad kept on the head,
scrubbing both that and his back. At another signal he sank
himself lower and lower, until only his trunk and the head and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span>
shoulders of the boy were visible. It seemed to enjoy it very
much, and was almost unwilling to come out again.</p>
<div class="sidenote">LEAVE BALASORE.</div>
<p>We sent our tent on before and started from Balasore at about
eleven o'clock in the evening in palanquins. Our party consisted
of T., D., B., C. and his son, and myself. We arrived
at Neilghur at about three o'clock, and our palanquins were
simply set down on the ground that we might finish our night's
rest. By the by, when the bearers of the palanquins are changed
for fresh men, on taking hold they very often cry out, "Ah!
my brother, my child!" but with me they generally make an
addition to this—"Ah! my brother, my child, my elephant!"</p>
<p>When they set my palanquin down I turned to look about
me. It was very dark, though the stars were shining brightly.
The hill seemed to rise almost perpendicularly from my feet into
the clouds; a strong blast of cold wind came rolling down its
sides, and I was very glad to creep back again into my palanquin
and cover myself up with a thick blanket. A little before sunrise
I turned out again and roused my companions. We dressed
ourselves, loaded our guns and pistols, and started on the ascent,
after swallowing a hasty cup of tea and a bit of bread.</p>
<div class="sidenote">SUNRISE—SCENERY.</div>
<p>At this moment the sun rose, and none but those who have
witnessed the splendour of the oriental sunrise can have an idea
of the magnificence of the scene. Immediately in front of us
was a broad sheet of water surrounded by dense jungle, interspersed
with lofty trees, from which, as we looked, two peacocks
came forth to drink. At the back of the lake the hill rose
abruptly to the height of nearly a thousand feet, the sides partially
covered with trees, but which were interspersed here and
there with precipices two or three hundred feet in depth, composed
of a dark-coloured rock. From each side of this principal
eminence project as it were shoulders, of about half the
height, and which, covered with the thickest foliage, inclined
round to the right and left so as to enclose us in a sort of semicircle.</p>
<p>We had sent men the day before to trace a path through
the jungle, and they had tolerably succeeded. But unfortunately
I was weak and far from well, and was completely knocked<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span>
up before I got half-way to the top. One of our party was a
medical man, and he insisted on my not attempting to go any
farther. I felt deadly sick, my face was as white as snow, every
pulse in my head and chest throbbed as if it would burst, my
mouth was not dry but clammy, and when I lay down on a piece
of rock I almost doubted if I should ever rise again. However,
I soon felt better, descended the hill, got a glass of beer, and lay
down in the tent for an hour or two. The others reached the
top without much difficulty, though two of them avowed that, if
the summit had been a hundred yards farther, they could not
have reached it. They were very thankful for some beer and
brandy-and-water which I sent up for them. They saw no animals,
though in several places traces of bears were observed.
The Rajah says there are no tigers in these parts.</p>
<p>We had but little hunting; while we were there one of our
party killed a beautiful spotted deer. I shot some peacocks and
a jungle-cock. Talking of hunting reminds me of an adventure
which I must relate. The commissioner is the stoutest man I
have seen in India, although my wife did insinuate the other day
that I was nearly as big, but I am not.</p>
<p>The other day Mr. D., Lieutenant H., and the commissioner
went out hog-hunting. This sport is always performed on horseback
with long spears. The beaters soon turned out a magnificent
boar. "A boar! a boar!" was the shout, and up galloped the commissioner
and plunged the spear into the animal; but, in consequence
of his horse swerving, he was unable to withdraw the
weapon, and the boar ran off with it sticking into his back.
Lieutenant H. now came up; the boar charged him, cut both the
fore legs of his horse to the bone with his tusks, and tumbled
horse and man over on the ground. In the mean time the commissioner
had seized another spear from his syce, when the boar
rushed at him. His horse swerved at the moment that he was
making a thrust with his spear, and the poor commissioner rolled
over on the ground. Fortunately the boar was nearly exhausted,
too much so to charge again; but he did what perhaps no boar
ever did before,—he seized the commissioner by the coat-tails
as he lay on his stomach. Feeling the snout of the beast,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span>
he at once expected to be cut, if not killed, by its tremendous
tusks.</p>
<p>He sprang upon his feet; the boar kept hold of his tail. The
Commissioner faced about; he had neither pistol nor knife, so he
commenced pummelling away at the boar's face with his fist.
Now imagine the scene—a man of his extraordinary size with his
coat-tail held up by an enormous boar; the Commissioner himself
turned half round, and having a regular boxing-match with
the ferocious brute. D. came up as quickly as he could for
laughing, and with one good thrust of his spear put an end to the
fight. The charge of the boar is fearful; he cuts right and left
with his tusks, and inflicts the most dreadful wounds.</p>
<div class="sidenote">UNCIVIL TREATMENT OF RAJAHS.</div>
<p>And now I must mention some circumstances which to me
rendered our expedition to Neilghur very unpleasant; they relate
to the manner in which our party treated the Rajah. On the
morning of our arrival, after our descent from the hills, he came
with a party of horsemen to call upon us. We were just sitting
down to breakfast, when I observed the cavalcade approaching.
I mentioned it, and proposed that, according to Indian politeness,
we should go into the verandah of our tent to receive them.
But the principal man of our party said, "Oh! bother the fellow,
we can't see him now;" and he sent a servant out to tell him so.</p>
<p>In the afternoon the Rajah sent his man, corresponding to our
chief gamekeeper in England, to ask when we should like the
coolies to beat the jungle, and to say that he would join us in
the hunt. We named the time and started accordingly, found
the coolies in readiness, and saw the Rajah and his brother coming
upon elephants.</p>
<p>Our party began to move on, when I asked, "Will you not
wait for the Rajah?" "I should think not," was the reply; "we
don't want the beastly niggers with us." And yet these civilized
men were glad enough to make use of these beastly niggers'
coolies and elephants. I stayed behind and had some talk with
them.</p>
<p>The next day the two Rajahs called at the tent; they entered
as gentlemen, and made the usual Indian salutation. With the
exception of myself, I do not think one of our party even rose<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span>
from his chair. In the course of conversation we spoke of the
badness of the water we got. The Rajah immediately offered to
send a man six miles into the hills to fetch some from a mountain
stream. In little more than an hour afterwards, one of our
party, feeling thirsty, sent a servant to ask the Rajah whether
he had not got that water yet. In India, in speaking to a servant,
you use the word "toom," which signifies "you." In
speaking to a gentleman you say "ab," which means "your honour."
One or two of our party made a point of saying "toom"
to the Rajah, which was in fact a great insult. The younger
brother called upon us. The chief of our party spoke to him
on the subject of the disturbances, although it had all been
settled by the Commissioner, and gave him a regular blowing
up. And now remember that all this was to a gentleman—an
Indian it is true, but still a gentleman, with a fine estate, and
about 6000<i>l.</i> a-year, from whom we were receiving every kindness,
and on whose land we were hunting. Can it be wondered
at that the natives do not like us so well as might otherwise
be expected?</p>
<p>The Rajah, I suppose, finding me more civil than the others,
gave me a great mark of honour. He took me on his own
elephant, while he acted as mahout, and whenever any roughness
occurred on the ground he turned to warn me of it. I own
that I did not enjoy the honour much. The elephant was covered
with a crimson cloth, so that there were no ropes to hold
by. The only way in which I could manage was to sit astride.
It was really most painful, and I almost doubted whether I should
ever be able to get my legs together again. I had two brace of
pistols with me. The Rajah appeared very much pleased with
them, and, to make up for the rudeness of our party, I gave him
one of the pair. He was delighted, and I was sadly laughed at
for giving anything to a nigger. His palace is a fine white
building on the side of one of the hills.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span></p>
<h2><a name="Cuttack_July_4_1844" id="Cuttack_July_4_1844">Cuttack, July 4, 1844.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">SALT-MANUFACTURE.</div>
<p>I have mentioned the manner in which Europeans are apt to
alienate the affections of the natives; I will now give you an
instance of the way in which the Government seek to conciliate
them. It must be remembered that salt is a Government monopoly,
that is, no person is allowed to prepare or sell it except by
the appointment of Government. The cost to them is about
eight annas, or one shilling, per maund of eighty pounds; they
sell it for four rupees, or eight shillings, for the same quantity;
and yet so necessary is it to the natives, that, if any man does not
buy the usual quantity of Government, which is, I believe, about
half a seer, or one pound, a-month, for each individual, he is
brought by the police before a magistrate and sent to gaol, on
the presumption that, as he does not purchase salt, he must
smuggle it.</p>
<p>Now the salt-manufacturers receive a portion of their pay
beforehand, and the remainder when the salt is ready. They
belong mostly to the poorest classes, and their mode of working is
very simple, merely collecting the sea-water, and then suffering
it to evaporate in the sun. When they receive the first portion
of their pay, they are told how much they will receive per maund,
for the price varies slightly in different years. Last year they
were promised a certain sum; I am not exactly sure how much,
but say eight annas per maund; and when they came to the salt-agent
for their money, they found that an order had arrived from
Government reducing the promised pay to six and a half annas
per maund. Of course they were excessively angry, and utterly
astonished; for one strong idea with the natives is, that an Englishman
will never tell an untruth. I happened to be present at
the time; it occurred at Pooree, in the neighbourhood of which
are some of the principal salt-works, if I may use so dignified a
term.</p>
<p>The proper course for these poor people to have taken would
have been, to have brought an action against Government for
breach of contract; but this they could not possibly afford.
However, the magistrates of Pooree sent a strong remonstrance<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span>
to Government, and the consequence was, that they authorized
the salt-agent this year to renew the contracts at the higher price,
much to the delight of the poor salt-manufacturers, who still lost
a part of the promised price of last year; yet it is scarcely to be
credited that, before the time for the second payment arrived,
another order was sent down, reducing the price as they did last
year, and thus again defrauding the poor wretches of part of their
small pittance, for defrauding it is in the truest sense of the word.
All these things are managed by four or five men, who compose
what is called the Salt Board.<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> I may mention that the salt-workers
have been sadly disturbed this year by the number of
tigers. The natives sometimes keep the claws of those which
they are so fortunate as to kill, to make charms to keep off
mischief.</p>
<div class="sidenote">RELIGION OF THE BRAHMINS—JUGGERNAT'H.</div>
<p>And now I must describe Juggernat'h. To the temple are
attached about <em>four thousand</em> priests and servants. Of these one
set are called Pundahs. In the autumn of every year they start on
a journey through India, preaching in every town and village the
advantages of a pilgrimage to Juggernat'h; after which they conduct
to Pooree large bodies of pilgrims for the Rath Justra, or Car
Festival, which takes place in May or June—the precise time depends
on the moon, as does the time of our Easter. This is the
principal festival, and the number of devotees varies from about
80,000 to 150,000. About five years ago there were present, on
one occasion, not less than 250,000; but that numerous meeting was
owing to some peculiar sanctity which is supposed to be diffused
once in 200 years. But I ought to have commenced with some
account of Juggernat'h himself. He represents the ninth incarnation
of Vishnoo. I have often wondered whether the Hindu
religion may not, in some portions, be taken remotely from the
Christian. One name of Vishnoo is Chrishna; one appellation
of Juggernat'h is Sri Teo. This Teo, as Chrishna, became incarnate
whilst very young; he was sought after by a king to put</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span></p>
<p>him to death. Many children were killed, but he was removed
from place to place in safety. He was born amongst the shepherds.
The Hindus look for a tenth incarnation, when he shall
unite all the world in one religion, and himself reign over them.
I believe I am correct in giving these as points of faith amongst
the Brahmins; and when we consider that the Hindu religion
was probably established long after St. Thomas and St. Bartholomew
had visited India, it certainly seems allowable to suppose
that some portion of the Christian teaching became mingled with
the doctrines of the Hindus. There is one objection to this
supposition, namely, that Vishnoo is represented to have lived a
very wicked and immoral life while on earth.</p>
<p>No European, Mussulman, or low-caste Hindu is admitted
into the temple; we can, therefore, only speak on hearsay of
what goes on inside. The idol itself is renewed every twelve
years; it consists of a mere block of sacred wood, in the centre
of which is said to be concealed a fragment of the original idol,
which was fashioned by Vishnoo himself. The features and all
the external parts are formed of a mixture of mud and cowdung
painted. Every morning the idol undergoes his ablutions; but
as the cowdung and paint would not stand the washing, the priests
adopt a very ingenious plan—they hold a mirror in front of the
image, and wash his reflection. Every evening he is put to bed;
but as the idol is very unwieldy, they place the bedstead in front
of him; on that they lay a small image, lock the door, and leave
him to come down himself, if he can.</p>
<p>Offerings are made to him, by pilgrims and others, of rice,
money, jewels, elephants, &c.; the Rajah of Knoudah and the
priests being his joint treasurers. About twelve days before the
Rath Justra, Juggernat'h goes to bathe; whilst doing so, he is
supposed to be bitten by a snake, which causes him to be sick
until the day of the festival. During his illness the priests take
off his paint and cowdung, and give quite a new coat; so that
at the end of the time he appears quite healthy and strong.</p>
<p>On the grand day the three cars, which, I should say, were
fifty or sixty feet in height, are brought to the gate of the temple;
the idols are then taken out by the priests—Juggernat'h having<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span>
golden arms and diamond eyes for that one day—and by means of
pulleys are hauled up and placed in their respective carriages;
to these enormous ropes are attached, and the assembled thousands,
with loud shouts, proceed to drag the idols to Juggernat'h's
country-house, a small temple at about a mile distant. This
occupies several days, and the idols, having rusticated for some
time, are brought back to their regular station. The Hindus
believe that every person who aids in dragging the cars receives
pardon for all his past sins; every pilgrim who dies within five
miles of Pooree will be greatly blessed in his next life; and every
person who swims out to sea, so far as to see the top of the temple
from the surface of the water, secures great blessings in another
life for himself, his father and mother, his grandparents, and the
three next generations descended from himself! This last experiment,
however, is very rarely tried; there are too many sharks
to make it pleasant. One man was drowned last year in attempting
it. As to the people throwing themselves under the
wheels of the car, that I believe to be altogether a European invention.
Some occasionally fall accidentally, and are thus
killed; but I imagine that self-immolation in this way neither is
nor ever was at all a common thing.</p>
<p>I have very little doubt that great wickedness prevails within
the temple. In two cases, lately, it is known that murder has
been committed there; yet we, who have held the country so
long, are not allowed to enter the building. It is said that if we
attempted it we should be driven from the district; this I do not
believe. Some years ago the priests declared that the god would
not leave his country-house until all the English were driven
from the province. The officer commanding at Cuttack directly
sent word that, if the idol was not brought back on the usual
day, he would come and blow both it and the temple to pieces.
Juggernat'h immediately came to his senses, and was back in his
temple one day before his regular time.</p>
<p>During the period the pilgrims remain at Pooree they are not
allowed to eat anything but what has been offered to the idol,
and that they have to buy at a very high price from the priests.
This food is often very bad, and from that, combined with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span>
other causes, the cholera makes sad ravages amongst these poor
people.</p>
<div class="sidenote">NUMEROUS DEATHS—EVIL OMEN.</div>
<p>At the festival that is just past it is calculated that there were
about 130,000 pilgrims. The cholera this year was very mild;
but not less than 650 died at Pooree, or between that place and
Cuttack. Their bodies are generally thrown out to be devoured
by the dogs, vultures, and jackals. One Sunday morning, in
coming home from church, we found that three bodies had been
thrown out in front of our house; two of them were rapidly disappearing
in the jaws of these animals, the other was tossing
about in the surf. However, I sent to the magistrate, and he
had them removed and burnt. A vast proportion of the pilgrims
are widows. In India a widow is not permitted to marry again,
but must be supported by her late husband's relations; and it is
said that many of those poor women are sent down to Pooree in
hope of getting rid of them, and no doubt this purpose frequently
succeeds. And to support this system our Government pays
6000<i>l.</i> a-year; equal to the salaries of ten chaplains of our
Church. This year an event occurred which the Hindus consider
to be very ominous of evil. As they were bringing the god
out, one of the chief priests was seized with cholera, and was
sick all over the idol. The necessary purifications occupied so
long a time, that the procession was not able to start that day.</p>
<p>I have just had a sad misfortune: all my cloth clothes, cloaks,
&c., with two or three dozen shirts, flannels, waistcoats, drawers,
&c. &c.—in short, everything but what was in actual use—were
put away in a large chest. Whilst we were at Pooree my stupid
man never once looked at them. When I returned I wanted
something out of the chest, opened it, and found that every individual
thing had been almost entirely destroyed by white ants—coats,
shirts, flannels, were eaten through in all directions; and
I think there was, at least, 50<i>l.</i> worth destroyed. I have fined
my man two months' pay for his carelessness; but, as that is only
22<i>s.</i>, it is a very poor consolation to me.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[136]</a></span></p>
<h2><a name="Cuttack_August_10_1844" id="Cuttack_August_10_1844">Cuttack, August 10, 1844.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">BRINDABUND MONKEYS.</div>
<p>The weather is now most fearfully oppressive; not so much
from the actual heat, for the thermometer is seldom above 86° or
87°, but from a dense mass of cloud, which at the height of a few
hundred feet encloses us, as it were, day and night in one vast
steamy vapour-bath. The last two or three months are actually
the most trying that I have felt in India.</p>
<p>I forget whether I have described the Brindabund monkeys.
I have now a pair of them. I do not remember ever to have
seen them in England. They are covered all over with long,
thick, black hair; but round the face, extending from temple to
temple, is a very broad, thick frill of white or rather light grey:
the tail is of a middling length, the snout very short, and the
animal himself remarkably docile and intelligent. Those that I
have are not yet a year old, and I should say the body is about a
foot in length. When on their hind legs they stand nearly two
feet.</p>
<p>I have mine in the verandah just outside my study door, and
they are so full of fun that I often sit for a long time watching
them. One runs a little way up the lattice, then the other makes
a spring after him, and up they both go as fast as they can.
Presently the lower one catches hold of the upper one's tail, and
brings him down to the bottom; then he makes a jump and gets
away into his kennel and sits at the door, whilst the other wanders
round and round, trying to find some place where he can get
in without being observed; in doing this he carelessly turns his
back, when out jumps the other and catches hold of his tail or his
hind leg, and drags him round and round their cage. I should
tell you that the cage is the end of the verandah at the back of
my house; two sides of it are wall, and the other two are lattice.
It is about ten feet square, twelve feet high at one end, and
eighteen or twenty at the other.</p>
<p>When they are frightened they sit upright on the floor, with
their arms clasped round each other; and if I take one of them
out tied by a string, they both scream the whole time until they
are brought together again, and then they rush into each other's<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span>
arms. These two monkeys are very much admired by the Europeans
at Cuttack, who have given them the name of "the
gentlemen monkeys," because, from the great length of their
hair, they look as if they were dressed, besides being quiet and
docile. They are almost as rare here as in England. They are
of the most sacred race of monkeys in the eyes of the Hindus;
and indeed the only objection I have to them is, that I am afraid
some of my servants make poojah to them, that is, worship them,
and prostrate themselves before them, and make offerings of rice
to them.</p>
<p>We have a great improvement in the use of our finger-glasses
over those in England. One man waits behind every person at
each meal, even at tea, and as soon as the meal is over he brings
his master or mistress a finger-glass filled with water, with two or
three leaves of verbenum, or bay, or sweet-smelling lime, for the
persons to squeeze between their fingers. In a hot climate like
India this is very pleasant and refreshing.</p>
<div class="sidenote">INDIAN MARRIAGES.</div>
<p>When a man in India, I mean a European gentleman, wants
a wife, he says to his friend, "I should like to get married."
"Well," says he, "why don't you?" and forthwith he applies
for leave of absence for a month. A month consists of thirty
days, of which, say five are occupied in his journey to Calcutta,
and another five on his journey back, leaving him just twenty
days in which to make his selection, get introduced, make himself
agreeable, propose, court, and be married. A nice prospect he
has for future happiness. But there is one curious result in this
sort of marriage, and a result, too, which spreads among other
people also. After a few years the wife loses her health and is
ordered to England. The husband cannot afford to go with her,
but he allows her about half his salary. At the end of two or
three years, or whatever time may have been fixed, he writes to
his wife to make arrangements for her return to India; and I
have known two instances in which the husband was obliged to
stop the allowance in order to compel the wife to return.</p>
<p>I have often wished to have some peacocks in my compound,
but every one told me that they would fly away; however, I
found that those who had tried to keep them had obtained the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span>
young birds from the jungle. I thought I would try another
plan, and therefore I got some eggs and set them under a hen.
I have three young ones coming on nicely, perfectly tame, and
which, I think, will look very well among the trees in front of
my house. Two are peacocks, the other a peahen.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Cuttack_September_14_1844" id="Cuttack_September_14_1844">Cuttack, September 14, 1844.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">A NIGHT'S REST.</div>
<p>My wife and I were sitting, after tea, playing at backgammon
and enjoying the cool breeze that came through the open Venetians,
when suddenly it began to rain. In an instant the room
swarmed with insects of all sorts. There was the beautiful large
green mantis; and, as we were watching his almost human motions,
a grasshopper and a large brown cricket flew against my
face, while a great cockroach, full three inches long, came on
my wife's neck, and began running about her head and face and
dress; the flying-ant, which emits a most nauseous effluvia; and
the flying-bug, black, and about the size of an English one, which,
if you crush him, will make your fingers smell most dreadfully
for many hours;—and with these our clothes were covered, and
we were obliged to keep brushing them away from our faces, but
with very gentle handling; and then came two or three hornets,
which sent Mrs. Acland to bed to get under the mosquito-curtains,
where none of these horrid creatures can get at her. I sat up
trying to read, but buzz came a mosquito on the side of my face,
up went my hand a tremendous slap on the cheek to kill the tormentor,
and buzz he went on again. Then I felt something big
burying itself in my hair, and then came buzz on the other side,
and then all around.</p>
<p>Presently, with a loud hum, a great rhinoceros-beetle dashed
into my face. I now began to take some of the animals out of
my hair; and the first that I touched was a flying-bug: the stench
was dreadful. I rushed out of the room, brushing the horrible
creatures from my hair with both hands. I nearly fell over a
toad on which I trod, and reached my bed-room to find eighteen
or twenty great toads croaking in different parts of the room, and
five large bats were whirling round and round the bed. Having<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span>
washed my hands in eau-de-cologne, I quickly undressed and fell
asleep.</p>
<p>In the course of the night a troop of jackals surrounded the
house, and by their frightful yells soon drove away all idea of
rest; and then, about four o'clock, as we were just dozing off
again, comes the roll of the drum and the loud voice of the trumpet,
the tramp of the soldiers, the firing, and all the bustle of the
parade; and, as soon as that is over, comes the changing guard,
and the "<i>shoulder harrm</i>," and the "<i>quick marrch</i>," near our
house; and so we got up.</p>
<div class="sidenote">THE BATH.</div>
<p>Then comes the bath, the greatest luxury of the day (the
water just cooler than the air), into which I get with a book, lie
there an hour reading, get out and partly dress, and then admit
my man to wash my feet in cold water, and to shampoo me
and brush my hair, whilst another brings me a cup of delicious
coffee or a glass of sherbet; and then breakfast, with an
enormous fan swinging to and fro over our heads; and the heat,
and the discomfort, and languor till five o'clock, agreeably diversified
only by a bottle of beer cooled with saltpetre and water;
and then a drive, and tea, and mosquitoes again, and so on.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Cuttack_October_13_1844" id="Cuttack_October_13_1844">Cuttack, October 13, 1844.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">THE DOCTOR.</div>
<p>I had to make a five days' journey at the worst season of the
year to marry a couple, and I returned with a bad cough, which
became more violent after the cold had left me. I am very weak,
so that I walk like an old man. The doctors here are paid by
the Government for attending all persons in the service. The
Company also find medicines, but not the bottles, which sometimes
leads to curious circumstances. The other day I wanted
some medicine, and sent to the doctor for it; presently my man
brought me back a black-draught in an old eau-de-cologne bottle,
with a roll of paper by way of cork, and a request that I would
return the bottle, as it was the only one he had.</p>
<p>I am about to apply for leave of absence. I shall go up to
Calcutta, spend a fortnight with my friends there, Mr. and Mrs.
S.; they will then come down here, when Mrs. Acland will join
us, and we shall go to the Chelka Lake and the black pagodas.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span></p>
<p>I have another monkey now, which is kept at the stable; it is
a horrible animal, about a foot and a half high, of a light greenish
brown colour, no hair on its head, and very much inclined to
be savage. I keep it to please my stable-people, who have a
superstition that this kind of monkey prevents the horses getting
unwell. Not long ago a young officer turned a very savage one
loose; it took up its abode in my compound. In one night it
killed three of my fan-tailed pigeons, and it chased my goats
backward and forward so incessantly, that one of them died of
fatigue. I told my stable-people to catch the animal, and get
rid of him. This they did not do; so I then gave them notice,
that, if the monkey was not in the jungle on the other side of the
river by seven o'clock the next morning, I would cut them all
a month's pay. This is the best method of punishing the natives,
and in the present instance it was most effectual, for I
have not seen the fiendish-looking face of the exile since that
day.</p>
<p>In India the cow's milk is very bad, poor, and thin; that of
the buffalo is of a bad colour and rank; but what is furnished by
the goat is delicious, and many people, ourselves among the
number, keep flocks of goats. I flatter myself that mine (twelve
goats and seven kids) are very handsome. The male kids we
eat when they are old enough to leave their mother; they are
very nice indeed. Our goats are much larger than those in
England, but all other animals are very small. I have heard it
said at table, "Will you take a shoulder or leg of lamb?" Beef
and veal in this bigoted part of the country are quite forbidden
things. Yet how curious this is! No animals are worse treated
than the bullocks, which are here the only beasts of burden.
They are starved and ill-used in every way. I have seen a man
dislocate several joints successively of his bullock's tail; yet, if
I were to fire my gun at the poor animal to put it out of its
misery, I should probably have my house burnt over my head.</p>
<p>I saw a most extraordinary sight last night. It was in the
evening very hot, and a great deal of electricity in the air.
There were two very heavy clouds, one at a considerable distance
above the other. Suddenly some vapour separated itself<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span>
with a whirling motion from the upper, assuming the shape of a
waterspout until the point touched the lower; then a commotion
began, the lower cloud rushing in large white masses up the
sides of the spout and uniting with the upper. This continued
for nearly forty minutes, until the lower was absorbed.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Cuttack_November_14_1844" id="Cuttack_November_14_1844">Cuttack, November 14, 1844.</a></h2>
<p>I sowed some melon-seed one Friday morning; on the Monday
when I went into the garden most of the melon-plants were two
inches in height. In three days, in the open ground, from
being mere dry seeds they had germinated and sprung up into
strong healthy plants. The same rapidity of growth is remarkable
in almost all vegetation in this country. I sowed some
English peas the day before yesterday; this morning they are all
above the ground. Thus we see that the effect of the climate is
to hurry all these things forward, so that they naturally decay
and die much earlier than they would in Europe.</p>
<div class="sidenote">EARLY MATURITY AND DECAY OF NATIVES.</div>
<p>Now just put man in the place of a vegetable, and the case is
precisely the same. A native boy has generally good-sized mustachios
by the time he is fourteen, and a girl becomes a woman
at eleven or twelve; then, again, at thirty the woman is old and
shrivelled, and at forty the man is white-haired and decrepit.
Who can wonder, then, that a climate like this should have such
serious effects on Europeans, or that our constitutions should
be soon worn out by the burning sun?</p>
<p>However, this month I have no right to complain; I am far
better than I have been for some time. The weather is delightful;
we are glad of a thick blanket and counterpane at night;
at six, when I get up, the thermometer is rarely above 72°. I
have no objection to a cloak when I am sowing seeds in the
morning. The thermometer now, two o'clock <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, is in my
room exactly 80°, but there is a delightful cool breeze.</p>
<p>I have before observed that I did not feel satisfied with my
medical man. As the East India Company do not allow above
one doctor to every fifty miles, I wrote to a friend of mine in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span>
whom I have much confidence, detailing all my symptoms and
requesting his advice. I could not think it of any use to put
blisters and leeches on my throat for a cough and sickness which
I felt to proceed from my stomach, and as I was very unwell I
thought it best to consult another person. In the wisdom of his
advice I perfectly agree, although it is more difficult to act up
to it in India: "Employ your mind and stint your body."
Any amusement, anything that could interest or excite or rouse,
he recommended, but to avoid all unnatural stimulants as much
as possible (I mean wine and spirits), and take plenty of exercise.
If I do this, he says, he thinks I may leave all physic in the
bottles and the leeches in the ponds. In accordance with this
advice I am occupying myself in various ways. Books it is impossible
to procure, so I have been training a horse for my wife—a
beautiful little thing. I have made arrangements too for
going to Calcutta in the course of the cold weather; and I have
enclosed about an acre of my ground, and am making a vegetable
or rather a kitchen garden of it.</p>
<p>I get up about six, dress in my old clothes, go out, and find
one of the horses, or rather ponies, at the door waiting for me.
I must ride him through the long grass, which by the bye is very
nearly fit to cut, to look at a number of my trees scattered here
and there in the compound, which I have been planting; then,
when I am down at the farther end I take a glance at the large
pond, or tank as we call it, where, sheltered by the most beautiful
flowering trees, two men are catching fish for our breakfast.
Then I ride along inside the hedge, watching the soldiers at
parade, until I come to the goat-house; then see the pigs fed,
and ride back to the house.</p>
<div class="sidenote">FLOWER AND KITCHEN GARDENS.</div>
<p>By this time my wife is up, and she goes into the flower-garden,
and I into the kitchen-garden, to sow seeds and superintend
the gardeners. And here is the most curious scene; seven
black men at work, their only dress a cloth round the loins, their
long black hair wound up in a knot at the back of the head, their
only tools a sort of broad pickaxe with a very short handle and a
small sickle, these are their only gardening implements; and
two men are watering with gurrahs, a sort of narrow-necked jar<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span>
made of black clay, which they let down into a well by a rope.
In the flower-garden are the beautiful balsams, of many colours,
and as large as gooseberry-bushes; the splendid coxcombs, eight
or ten feet high, whose great thick flowers measure twelve or
fourteen inches by six or eight; the varieties of the hybiscas,
with many others; and a few of the more precious European
rarities—at least to us—such as the heliotrope, verbenum, larkspur,
and many others. Our borders are mostly of the sweet-scented
grass from the Neilghur hills, which is always covered
with a beautiful small white flower.</p>
<p>In the vegetable-garden, besides the precious peas, beans,
celery, cress, &c., which will only grow at this time of the year,
are the pine-apple, the plantain, the guava, the lime, the orange,
the custard-apple, with many other native plants and trees; and
in the hedges are some of the beautiful palms, from the sap of
which the Indians make an intoxicating drink called toddy. In
the compound are some very fine mango-trees and beeches.</p>
<p>The other evening I was sitting alone writing at about eleven
o'clock, when I heard the sentry call out loudly to my servants
who were sleeping in the verandah. I jumped up to see what
was the matter. "A leopard-tiger!" was the answer; and the
man said he had seen a leopard creeping stealthily along the
compound. He leapt over the wall into the garden of the
Colonel who lives in the next house, and the following
day footsteps were found in various parts of the cantonment,
which the natives said were too large for a leopard, and must
have been the marks of a regular tiger. I did not see the animal
myself; but if the men were correct, it must have been an
extraordinary occurrence, as our little island is entirely free
from wild beasts; and although it is at this time of the year
joined to the main by a narrow neck of sand, yet no large
beast will cross unless pressed either by hunger or by hunters.</p>
<p>A few days ago a man brought me an animal which he had
caught in the jungle on the hills. At first sight I said it was an
armadillo, but now I feel some doubt whether it was not some
unknown animal. I wanted to buy it, in order to send the skin, or
rather the shell, home, but the man asked ten rupees for it, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span>
I could not afford. It was nearly three feet long, covered with thick
hard scales of a dirty yellow colour, the tail the same length as
the body, and equally broad, which I do not think is the case with
the armadillo. The shape of its whole back was a long oval.
When frightened it rolled itself up into a ball, but it appeared
very lethargic and stupid. The feet were armed with long,
powerful claws, but it walked with the lower joints turned
down under the feet, as if I were to walk on my ankles with
the feet and toes turned under and behind. It burrowed a
hole in a wall, pulling out the bricks and mortar very easily.
I tried it with various kinds of food, but the only thing I
could get it to eat was white ants. The man who brought it
said he had never seen one like it before.</p>
<p>Not long ago the doctor at Pooree saw a number of natives
running to the beach. He inquired what was the matter: "A
great fish, sir." So down he went to join the crowd, and there
he found a large fish indeed: a whale, measuring forty-eight feet
in length, had been washed on shore; the body was rolling about
in the surf, with great numbers of the natives clinging to it.</p>
<p>Then the doctor and the only other European present took off
their shoes and stockings, turned up their trowsers, and climbed
on the enormous animal's back; they got well wetted for their
pains. The other gentleman that I mentioned is not a very
learned man, and he said that their climbing up the sides of the
whale reminded him of the "Lally prussians" climbing on to
Gulliver. This same person once said that his wife had had a
"historical" fit, in consequence of eating "aromatically" sealed
salmon.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Khoutah_30_miles_from_Cuttack_December_16_1844" id="Khoutah_30_miles_from_Cuttack_December_16_1844">Khoutah, 30 miles from Cuttack, December 16, 1844.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">ANTIQUITY OF INDIAN RELIGIONS.</div>
<p>I am now writing in a tent in which, with the exception of
Christmas week, I expect to spend the next month or two,
travelling in search of health. The cool weather has refreshed
me much, and I feel far better than I did. A question has been
asked me respecting the antiquity of the religions of this country.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span>
I believe the <ins title="Original read 'Bhuddist'">Buddhist</ins> religion to be more ancient than the
Brahminical in India; though I think that the latter is the older
in reality, as I imagine it to have existed almost in its present
form in ancient Egypt. The Hindus burn their dead, the Mohammedans
bury them: but there are very many of the former
who are too poor to purchase wood; in this case the bodies are
simply thrown out for the jackals and vultures.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Jenkia_about_44_miles_south_of_Cuttack_January_4_1845" id="Jenkia_about_44_miles_south_of_Cuttack_January_4_1845">Jenkia, about 44 miles south of Cuttack, January 4, 1845.</a></h2>
<p>From Khoulah I returned to Cuttack for Christmas. Early
on Christmas morning Mr. G., the collector and magistrate
of Pooree, came in to spend the day with us. Poor man!
he and a cousin of his were almost brought up together, and they
became much attached even in childhood. When he obtained
an appointment in India, it was agreed that he should return to
England and marry her as soon as he should have attained
sufficient rank in the service to give him an adequate income.
After about five years' residence in this country he went home
and was married. This was ten years ago, and from that time
his life seems to have been as happy as a human life can be.
Latterly they became anxious to go home on furlough, in order
that they might see their children settled in England, but they
had not saved money enough; so, in April, Mr. G. applied
for a better appointment, and was consequently nominated to
Pooree. On their way down, as they passed through Calcutta,
both were seized with cholera; he recovered, but she died; he
sent his children home, but arrived at Pooree a solitary man.
He is still in a very desponding state, but I do all I can to arouse
him, both by bodily amusement and religious converse.</p>
<p>At about one o'clock of the night of Christmas-day, or rather
of the following morning, my wife, Mr. G., and myself got into
our palanquins, and started for Khoordagurree, which we visited
last year. We arrived at our tent by about ten o'clock on
Thursday morning, bathed, dressed, breakfasted, and prepared to
start for the caves; but, alas! it began to rain, and the water<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span>
continued to fall in torrents for upwards of eighteen hours. We
might have expected this, for in India it is almost invariably the
case in Christmas week. The seasons are very regular; it
generally rains every day from the 15th of June to the 15th of
October, that is, in this part of India; the next showers are in
Christmas-week, and then rarely any more till June. Now, this
thorough drenching was both unpleasant and dangerous: for,
although the tents kept out the water very effectually, yet everything
was so thoroughly damp that we began to be afraid of the
deadly jungle-fevers.</p>
<p>Just outside one of the doors of each tent we lighted a large wood
fire, and allowed as much of the smoke to come in as we could
possibly bear; this warmed us, and dried up the damp and purified
the air; and we retired to bed and put out the fires: we
closed the doors of the tents, and found ourselves in a comparatively
dry healthy atmosphere.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Tanghi_56_miles_south_of_Cuttack_January_5_1845" id="Tanghi_56_miles_south_of_Cuttack_January_5_1845">Tanghi, 56 miles south of Cuttack, January 5, 1845.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">MODE OF TRAVELLING.</div>
<p>The following afternoon we were able to revisit the caves.
But I will first describe our journey. On the Monday and Tuesday
we had plenty of shooting; the Wednesday, New-Year's
day, we spent in-doors. At six o'clock on the morning of
Thursday, the 2nd, we started for Jonkia. We went on horseback,
riding fourteen miles before breakfast. Our manner of
travelling is most delightfully independent: we encamp at any
place we wish to see; Mr. G. transacts his necessary business as
magistrate and revenue-collector; then we have one, two, or
three days' exercise in hunting and shooting, the time depending
chiefly on the abundance of game.</p>
<p>When we feel inclined to start we send forward an order to
the principal man at the next place, say twelve or fifteen miles
distant, to build one room, about thirty feet square, in a shady
place, for ourselves; for the walls we use cocoa-nut and palm
leaves, bound together with bamboos, and the ceiling is made of
the same material with a few pieces of matting to keep out the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[147]</a></span>
sun. The evening before we start we send on a cart with some
of our chairs, tables, and other necessaries and provisions, which
it would be very awkward to forget, under charge of some of our
followers: we have about one hundred and twenty of them with
us.</p>
<p>Then, in the morning, we get up at five; we have a bit of
toast, an egg, and a cup of coffee or a glass of sherry; give
orders for the tents to be struck and everything to be brought
on as quickly as possible, and then we mount our horses; a
groom runs by the side, and a little way behind come our
palanquins and tonjons.</p>
<p>We are also attended by men carrying our guns and powder,
by many other servants, and about half the inhabitants of the
last village through which we passed. If we feel tired we get into
our tonjons; if the sun is too hot we call for our palanquins.
Every now and then we see five or six peacocks feeding in a
rice-field, or we come to a place where there are plain tracks of
deer. Then we give our horses to the grooms, and creep along
gently with our heads down and our guns in our hands, whilst
my wife either watches the sport or trots gently on. At last we
arrive at our encamping-place; there we find our leafy house
ready, and similar ones provided for the servants and horses;
eat a hearty breakfast, at which we sometimes substitute beer for
tea, and by the time that is over the tents are arrived.</p>
<p>We have them put up, arrange them comfortably, perhaps
have a game at chess, and then go out for a stroll about our new
ground. Our dinner-hour varies, but is generally between seven
and eight. We are usually up about five, and often walk from ten
to twenty miles a-day. This has done me a great deal of good.
I feel already quite a different person from what I did when I
was in Cuttack. I have not, however, lost my cough.</p>
<p>Sunday is a day of rest with us; we have service and spend
the day very quietly. At Jonkia we remained until Saturday
the 4th; then came on to Tanghi; on Thursday, the 9th, proceeded
to Soonercollee, on the 10th to Bampoor, and yesterday,
the 11th, we arrived at this place. So much for our actual
route; now I will give some account of what we have seen.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[148]</a></span></p>
<p>When we came to Jonkia we agreed that we had never seen
anything to compare with the scenery there; but as we came
into Soonercollee we quite forgot Jonkia in the new splendours
that met our eyes. Yet these were again eclipsed in the beauties
of Chelka Lake, to which we took one evening's ride from
Soonercollee. It is utterly impossible to convey any idea of the
scenery either by the pen or the pencil; yet I will try what I
can do.</p>
<p>In approaching the small village of Soonercollee you ascend a
hill some 200 or 300 feet high by a steep winding road or rather
path. At the top of the eminence it is cut through the solid
rock, which rises about thirty feet on each side. Suddenly, at a
turn in the road, the whole country in the front becomes visible,
and I doubt whether any one could repress a cry of admiration
at the sight. The spectator is (as I said before) at the summit
of a lofty hill; beneath him is a plain of some ten or twelve miles
across, bounded on every side by a lofty range and masses of rock.
Peering up behind are to be seen a succession of noble mountains.
The sides of the hills, where they do not consist of rocky precipices,
are covered with a dense jungle: the plain below is cultivated,
except where, in three places, abrupt rocky masses, interspersed
with jungle, rise to a height of 300 or 400 feet.
It looks as if some mighty convulsion had taken place, and the
earth had thrown up large bubbles of rock from the surface of the
plain.</p>
<div class="sidenote">CHELKA LAKE—WATER-FOWL.</div>
<p>The scenery on the Chelka Lake, a piece of water some forty
miles long by from ten to twenty in breadth, is very similar to
the above, if you substitute water for the level plain of the rice-fields.
Here the hills rise abruptly from the lake, and many of
them are quite inaccessible. The islands are inhabited by animals,
but not by man; and it is rather curious that each islet appears
to have its own peculiar race. Thus, one is inhabited by the
beautiful spotted deer, another by the enormous Indian elk,
another by goats and fowls (this one is sacred to the goddess
Khalee), another by wild pigs, and another by pigeons. With
some difficulty I landed on one of the pigeon islands: its greatest
height did not exceed thirty feet, and in circumference it may<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[149]</a></span>
have been near a quarter of a mile; but its structure was most
extraordinary. It was composed entirely of enormous masses of
rock piled together without the appearance of order or arrangement:
it appeared as if some earthquake had destroyed some
giant dwelling-place, and left the ruins in one vast heap. Some
of the stones, larger than a man's body, had fallen upon one end;
they gave way beneath my foot, but returned to their position as
soon as relieved of the extra weight which had destroyed the
balance. The blue pigeons rose in clouds from every crevice,
and fluttered about until I left the neighbourhood of their nests.</p>
<p>The lake lay all around—so calm, so beautiful, with the green
mountains rising here and there from its surface, dotted all over
with myriads of ducks, geese, teal, and many other aquatic birds:
and this reminded me of one thing which I should have related
before. As we approached the shores of the lake we were surprised
to see a long line of tall white and red creatures standing
just within the water. We looked at them through Mr. G.'s
glass, and found that they were birds; we got out of our tonjons,
crept towards them with loaded guns, fired, and missed them,
when they all rose and flew away.</p>
<p>The next morning Mr. G. and I returned to the spot: we
each took a separate boat, as Mrs. Acland was not with us; mine,
like the others, was about thirty feet long, and formed of a single
piece of wood, a tree scooped out. Mr. G. was very anxious to
obtain some game, and in the course of about two hours shot a
couple of large bare-headed geese and nineteen ducks of various
sorts; indeed, they sat in such masses on the water as to resemble
rather a low wall than a number of birds. At one shot he killed
five ducks, and I three: I did not care much about them, but I
was anxious to see again some of my friends of the previous
evening.</p>
<p>At last I came in sight of a flock of them near the shore. I
sat down in the bottom of the boat, whilst the men pushed it
gently along. I was nearly within shot, when Mr. G. fired his
gun at the distance of about a mile from my boat: up and away
flew all the birds. I was very much annoyed: however, after
some time, I saw about half a dozen nearly two miles from me.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[150]</a></span>
On we went again, but they had become shy: they raised their
heads and looked about them as we approached, and presently
they rose. I did not think I was sufficiently near, but I might
not have another chance, so I fired, and down fell one of the
birds. I pushed one of the boatmen over to fetch it, though he
hardly needed pushing, for they appeared quite as anxious as
I was.</p>
<p>I will try to describe my prize: I believe the bird to have
been a flamingo; and yet, if so, the usual descriptions are very
erroneous. The beak is pink, and furnished with a double row
of teeth on each side of the lower mandible—one row on the
beak, and dark coloured; the other very white and sharp, close
to the tongue, which is large. The eyes are pale, and surrounded
by a thick yellow ring; the wings are of a beautiful rose-colour,
edged with black; the legs pink; the rest of the body is white.
When standing upright it is about five feet high: the body is
extremely small, neck and legs very long; it has three toes in
front and is web-footed, also a claw behind; the beak very large.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Midnapore_February_14_1845" id="Midnapore_February_14_1845">Midnapore, February 14, 1845.</a></h2>
<p>This is Friday, and on Sunday night I start for Calcutta to
spend a month with our friends; there I shall have plenty of
occupation for the mind, and shall, I hope, get rid entirely of the
oppression under which I have recently suffered.</p>
<div class="sidenote">SPORTING.</div>
<p>Fancy yourself standing with me on that little rising ground,
near the foot of that large hill: it is near Bunool, on the banks of
the Chelka Lake. Keep out of sight behind that bush. Hark!
there are the beaters climbing the rocks on the opposite side of
the hill. There are 400 extended along the whole side, and
every tenth man has a drum or trumpet. Some of them have
guns, curious native matchlocks; others have swords or spears;
and every one has a thick bamboo about eight feet long. Listen!
they are beginning to beat. As they force their way through
the jungle they strike the bushes with their sticks, and from one
end of the lake to the other resound the most unearthly noises.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[151]</a></span>
The horrid yells of the natives, the screaming of the trumpets,
the constant beating of the tom-toms and drums—you can hardly
imagine such horrid discord. See: there is Mr. G. hiding himself
behind that clump of trees a quarter of a mile off. Hold your
gun ready, you cannot tell what may rush out of the jungle.
Don't show yourself. Listen again to those yells. They must
nearly have reached the top of the hill. Hush! there is a rustling
in those bushes close to you. What is it? Keep close, but up
with your gun. Here it comes! Bah! don't fire at that; it is
only a civet-cat. What a beautiful animal it is, with its grey
sides, and tail striped with that glossy black. But the skin is of
no use; the stench from it is so exceedingly powerful that you
could not possibly bear it in the house. Look out! there's
another rush! Here it comes! a pig! no; what can it be? Why,
it's a porcupine. Don't fire. Here, you messenger, catch it.
Fancy the man's look of dismay when ordered to catch a porcupine.
However, another of my men jumped up and stabbed the
animal with his sword.</p>
<p>Oh, what a clash in the jungle at the top of the hill! See! that
must be some large animal coming down. Don't let him see you;
peep through that bush. How he plunges through the jungle!
He has stopped: look now! he leaves the beaters behind him, but
he suspects danger in front. You can see his head by the side of
that tree, just below that high rock. He is standing still and
gazing at us. What a splendid pair of antlers! He must be
one of the largest sambres (Indian elk) I ever saw. I am afraid
he is hardly within shot; however, I'll try. He is down; the ball
struck him just in the centre of his forehead, and one of my men
rushes forward to despatch him with his sword.</p>
<p>But look there! Mr. G. is running as fast as he can, and all his
men running too. What can be the matter? Quick! see! there is
an enormous bear pursuing them. Here, give me my gun; make
haste. Look! G. has stumbled, and is rolling head over heels
down the hill. Bang! I hit him! See, he turns back. G. shot
the female, and was immediately attacked by the male, whilst his
gun was not loaded, for he foolishly had but one. We got the
body of the female, and brought it to our tents in triumph. It<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[152]</a></span>
was a black bear, measuring five feet seven inches in length, and
its teeth quite worn out.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Cuttack_April_2_1845" id="Cuttack_April_2_1845">Cuttack, April 2, 1845.</a></h2>
<p>The Government of India orders me to go from Cuttack to
Midnapore and back again four times a-year, to Balasore and
back twice a-year, and to Pooree and back four times a-year.
The distance from Cuttack to Midnapore is one hundred and
eighty miles, from Cuttack to Balasore one hundred and three
miles, and from Cuttack to Pooree forty-nine miles. I travel
about forty-seven miles a-day on the average. The Government
allows me twelve annas and two pice per mile for travelling expenses;
it costs me four annas and two pice—an anna being one-sixteenth
part of a rupee, and a pice one-fourth part of an anna.</p>
<div class="sidenote">SPORTING.</div>
<p>I must now mention some of my adventures in the jungle. One
day we went with a native Rajah to hunt antelopes. Suppose the
shore of the Chelka Lake on one side and the sea on the other,
with a strip of sand between them rather more than a mile wide.
The antelopes live entirely on the sandy plain, and feed on the
scanty plants which grow among the sand. Across this flat a net
about seven feet in height and a mile long was staked, and 100
men were stationed along it as guards. About 500 men were then
sent out with a similar net about a mile and a half in length, which
they stretched at perhaps five miles from the other. These 500
men then walked slowly towards the first net, carrying the other
in front of them, and driving lots of antelopes before them.
When they came within a mile of the first net they staked the
second, and there were perhaps fifty or sixty antelopes enclosed in
a space of about a mile square. Mr. G., the Rajah, and myself,
went inside with our guns. It was barbarous sport. In two days
we killed fifteen, which our servants ate most gladly. But the
interesting thing was to see twenty or thirty bound, one after the
other, over the net and the men's heads, giving tremendous leaps;
the black men striking at them with their swords and spears, and
cowering to avoid their sharp-cutting hoofs, and all hallooing and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[153]</a></span>
jabbering, and swearing; whilst every now and then the crack of
one of our guns would be heard, and the whizz of the bullet as it
passed near.</p>
<p>Another day we expected some danger. When we arrived at
the ground, which consisted of thick patches of jungle, with open
spaces between, we got out of our tonjons and took our guns.
There we found a number of men looking for traces of deer, wild
boars, tigers, or any other animals. As soon as they found the
track of one they followed it until it led into the jungle, and exactly
at that spot they pushed in amongst the bushes an enormous
bag made of net of thick rope. Its mouth was kept open by a
few twigs, whilst a running rope went round the entrance and was
fastened to a stake on one side. If then any animal should make
a rush along this track, he must go head foremost into the net:
the twigs would fall down, the neck would be drawn tight, and
the poor creature would be a prisoner. All these preparations
were at length concluded, and the Rajah then advised us to mount
the elephants, as he said two tigers had been seen in these jungles
the day before. We at once asked him whether his elephants had
been trained to stand the charge of a tiger, which always springs
at its head. He said he did not know; and we agreed that we
would rather stand the advance of a tiger on foot ourselves than
be on the back of a mad elephant scampering at random through
the jungle. So we built up an artificial hedge in front of us, and
crouched down with our guns pointed through some loopholes we
had left in our fence.</p>
<p>This arrangement was hardly completed before we began to
hear the sounds of the drums and the trumpets, and the yells of
the people, as nearly a thousand of them marched through the
jungle towards us, driving before them every sort of game. I
should tell you that we kept our elephants close at hand in case
of the worst. You cannot imagine the excitement in such watching
as this. Two or three miles off the most fearful yells from
1000 men, close around you utter silence; your eyes roaming
in every direction, not knowing at what point a deer or a tiger
may break out.</p>
<p>Ha! listen! there's a crack among the branches, and out rushes<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[154]</a></span>
a noble stag. Bang goes G.'s gun. We had agreed that he
should have the first shot. He's down! "Hush! here's something
else in this patch of jungle." "Where?" he whispers, as
he loads. "There, I see it now: look out; here it comes!"
And sure enough out rushed seven pigs, followed almost immediately
by three others. Now a wild boar is a most awkward
animal to fight on foot, and we had agreed we should not fire at
them. However, they rushed right towards us. What's to be
done? "Get on the elephant," says G. "No time," said I;
"follow me:" and we both fairly turned tail, pursued by a herd
of pigs until we came to a bush, or rather a patch of bushes,
round which we could make a short turn to escape them, and
then back to our own station, laughing as hard as we could. But
really a wild boar is no laughing matter as he rushes along tearing
up the earth. If he charges, as he almost invariably does,
with one movement of his head he could cut both legs to the
bone, dividing the arteries, and probably killing the man.</p>
<p>Presently a young stag rushed into one of the bags with such
force as to break both his horns close off. There we found him
when we examined the nets. We were sitting watching for
what should come next, when G., raising his finger, whispered
to me, "What's that down there in the plain? That's a deer:
no, it can't be: do you see how it slouches along? Depend
upon it it's not a deer." "Well, at any rate it's coming this
way; we shall soon get a look at it." Another pause of half a
minute and the beast was concealed in a little patch of jungle
a few hundred yards from us. I now had time to examine it.
"I'll tell you what, G.; that brute's a regular tiger." "Well, so
I thought, but I hardly liked to say so: what shall we do if he
comes this way?" "I say keep close where we are." "But
suppose he should make a spring over the hedge in front of us?"
"Lie flat down, and let him go over us: yet I think I could
hardly resist having a shot while he was in the air." "Oh!
pray don't fire; what in the world could we two do on foot
against a wounded tiger?" However, our fears were needless:
as the beaters advanced, the animal slunk away into a more distant
piece of jungle, and we saw no more of him. Two of our people<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[155]</a></span>
were rather hurt to-day—one by a deer leaping over him, and
cutting his head with his hoof; a rupee, however, made him
quite happy again: the other was a man who, as a large stag
rushed past, made a spring at its horns, thinking to pull it down,
whereby he got a severe fall and prevented us from firing.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<h2><a name="Pooree_April_26_1845" id="Pooree_April_26_1845">Pooree, April 26, 1845.</a></h2>
<div class="sidenote">FATAL ILLNESS OF AUTHOR.</div>
<p>I have had another attack similar to last year; it came on
in the same way and whilst I was in the pulpit. In the midst
of the sermon my teeth began to chatter; I could not speak;
my face became perfectly white; a cold blast seemed to enter
my left side and spread over the surface of my body, and then
gradually penetrate to the very innermost part, whilst I was
obliged to cling to the sides of the pulpit for support. It did not
last above a minute and a half, and I managed to finish my
sermon; but it was enough to astonish the congregation and to
warn me of what was coming. All my old symptoms returned,
though not so strongly as before—utter restlessness at night and
heavy sleepiness during the day, a painful cough when I lay
down, and other alarming signs. We came down to Pooree,
where my favourite doctor lives, and I already feel much better.</p>
<p>There is a billiard-table in the house where we are now
staying, and the doctor desires me to play as much as I can
every day. Of course playing for money is never allowed.
The game of billiards is about the best exercise for India. It is
not too violent, yet it gives a man about three miles of walking
in the hour, and brings all the limbs into play.</p>
<hr class="chap" />
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[156]</a></span></p>
<h2><a name="May_8_1845" id="May_8_1845">May 8, 1845.</a></h2>
<p>I am too weak to write much, and shall therefore continue at
another time.</p>
<p>[<span class="smcap">Note.</span>—On the 17th of May the author's life was closed.]</p>
<p class="p4 center">THE END.</p>
<p class="p4 center">London: Printed by <span class="smcap">William Clowes</span> and <span class="smcap">Sons</span>, Stamford Street.</p>
<div class="footnotes"><p class="center">FOOTNOTES:</p>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a>
It is doubted whether the injury does not rather arise from the damp
night-air than from the effect of the moon-beams.</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a>
It is the most common sort of carriage in India.</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a>
A gap occurs here in the narrative, from a portion of it having gone
down in the "Memnon" in the Red Sea.</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a>
Plenty of barley is grown in Bhootan.</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a>
This man continued most faithfully attached till his master's death, and
was then inconsolable.</p></div>
<div class="footnote">
<p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a>
We can scarcely imagine that the Supreme Government would lend
itself to such a transaction; we think it far more likely that it occurred
through the culpability or negligence of some of the inferior agents, who
may have misrepresented the case to Government.</p></div></div>
<div class="transnote"><p class="center">Transcriber's Notes:</p>
<p>Obvious typographical errors were repaired. Archaic and valid alternate spellings
were retained.</p>
<p>Hyphenation inconsistencies were standardized.</p>
<p><a href="#Page_145">p. 145</a>, "I believe the Buddhist religion": Original read "Bhuddist."</p>
</div>
<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43586 ***</div>
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