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diff --git a/39917-8.txt b/39917-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e598867 --- /dev/null +++ b/39917-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8199 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Narrative of an Expedition to the Shores of +the Arctic Sea in 1846 and 1847, by John Rae + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Narrative of an Expedition to the Shores of the Arctic Sea in 1846 and 1847 + + +Author: John Rae + + + +Release Date: June 5, 2012 [eBook #39917] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION TO THE +SHORES OF THE ARCTIC SEA IN 1846 AND 1847*** + + +E-text prepared by Moti Ben-Ari and the Online Distributed Proofreading +Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made available by +Internet Archive (http://archive.org). The maps were scanned by the +University of Manitoba Libraries (http://umanitoba.ca/libraries) + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 39917-h.htm or 39917-h.zip: + (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/39917/39917-h/39917-h.htm) + or + (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/39917/39917-h.zip) + + + Images of the original pages are available through + Internet Archive. See + http://archive.org/details/cihm_39502 + + +Transcriber's note: + + A single character following a carat is superscripted + (example: ESQ^R). When multiple characters are + superscripted they are enclosed by curly brackets + (example: Hon^{ble}). + + + + + +NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION TO THE SHORES OF THE ARCTIC SEA +IN 1846 AND 1847. + +by + +JOHN RAE, + +Hudson Bay Company's Service, Commander of the Expedition. + +With Maps. + + + + + + + +London: +T. & W. Boone, 29, New Bond Street. +1850. + +Marchant Singer and Co., Printers, Ingram-Court, +Fenchurch-Street. + + + + + TO + SIR GEORGE SIMPSON, + _Governor-in-Chief of Rupert's Land_, + THE ZEALOUS PROMOTER OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY, + THIS VOLUME IS INSCRIBED + AS A TRIBUTE OF RESPECT AND REGARD + BY THE AUTHOR. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + PAGE + CHAPTER I. + + Object and plan of the Expedition--Equipment at York + Factory--Boats--Crews--Articles useful in an Arctic + Voyage--Breaking up of the ice in Hayes and Nelson + Rivers--Departure from York Factory--Progress retarded by the + ice--First night at sea--Reflections--Rupert's Creek--Unbroken + fields of ice--Broad River--Description of the Coast--Double + Cape Churchill--Open sea to the north and north-west--Arrive at + Churchill--White whales--Mode of catching them--Sir George + Simpson's instructions--Stock of provisions 1 + + CHAPTER II. + + Depart from Churchill--A gale--Anchor in Knap's Bay--Land on an + island--Esquimaux graves--Visited by Esquimaux--A large river + running into Knap's Bay--Nevill's Bay--Corbet's Inlet--Rankin's + Inlet--Cape Jalabert--Greenland whales seen--Chesterfield + Inlet--Walruses--Cape Fullerton--Visited by an + Esquimaux--Reefs--Cape Kendall seen--Ice packed against the + shore--Take shelter in an excellent harbour--River + traced--Seals--Gale--Ice driven off--Direction of the tides + reversed--Whale Point--Many whales seen--Again stopped by the + pack--Wager River estuary--Ice drifts--Eddy currents--No second + opening into Wager River seen--Enter Repulse Bay--Interview with + Esquimaux--No intelligence of Sir John Franklin 19 + + CHAPTER III. + + Receive a visit from a female party--Their persons and dress + described--Crossing the Isthmus--Drag one of the boats up a + stream--Succession of rapids--North Pole Lake--Find a plant fit + for fuel--Christie Lake--Flett Portage--Corrigal + Lake--Fish--Deer-scaring stones--White wolf--Stony + Portage--View of the sea--Exploring party sent in advance--Their + report--Long Portage--Difficult tracking--Miles Lake--Muddy + Lake--Rich pasturage and great variety of flowers on its + banks--Marmot burrows--Salt Lake--Visit Esquimaux + tents--Discouraging report of the state of the ice--Esquimaux + chart--Reach the sea--Ross inlet--Point Hargrave--Cape Lady + Pelly--Stopped by the ice--Put ashore--Find a sledge made of + ship-timber--Thick fog--Wolves--Walk along the shore--Remains of + musk-cattle and rein-deer--Nature of the coast--Danger from the + ice--Irregular rise of the tide--Deer on the ice--Fruitless + efforts to proceed northward--Cross over to Melville + Peninsula--Gale--Again stopped by the ice--Dangerous position of + the boat--Return to starting point--Meeting with our Esquimaux + friends at Salt Lake--Deer begun to migrate southward--Walk + across the isthmus to Repulse Bay 38 + + CHAPTER IV. + + State of things at Repulse Bay--Determine to discontinue the + survey till the spring--Reasons--Party sent to bring over the + boat--Fix on a site for winter residence--Ptarmigan--Laughing + geese--Eider and king ducks--Visits of natives too + frequent--Return of the party sent for the boat--Report the bay + more closely packed than before--Preparations for + wintering--Fort Hope built--Proceed to North Pole and Christie + Lakes to look out for fishing stations--Purchase dogs--Wariness + of the deer--Flocks of geese pass southward--Blue-winged and + snow-geese--Their habits--Snow-storm--Its effects--Return to + Fort Hope--Daily routine--Signs of winter--Deer + numerous--Quantity of game killed--Provision-store built of + snow--Great fall of snow--Effects of the cold--Adventure with a + deer--Visited by a party of natives--Their report of the ice + westward of Melville Peninsula--An island said to be + wooded--Produce of the chase in October--Temperature--Two + observatories built of snow--Band of wolves--A party caught in a + snow-storm--Esquimaux theory of the heavenly bodies--Temperature + of November--Diminished supply of provisions 61 + + CHAPTER V. + + Winter arrangements completed--Learn to build + snow-houses--Christmas-day--North Pole River frozen to the + bottom--1st January--Cheerfulness of the men--Furious + snow-storm--Observatories blown down--Boat buried under the + snow--Ouligbuck caught in the storm--Dog attacked by a + wolf--Party of natives take up their residence near Fort + Hope--Esquimaux mentioned by Sir John Ross known to them--Boat + dug out of the snow--A runaway wife--Deer begin to migrate + northward--A wolf-chase--First deer of the season + shot--Difficulty of deer-hunting in spring--Dimensions of an + Esquimaux canoe--Serious accident to Ouligbuck--A + conjuror--Preparations for the journey + northward--Temperature--Aurora Borealis 81 + + CHAPTER VI. + + Set out for the north--Equipment of the + party--Snow-blindness--Musk-ox--Mode of killing it--Reach the + coast near Point Hargrave--Ice rough along shore--Pass Cape Lady + Pelly--Unfavourable weather--Slow progress--Put on short + allowance--River Ki-ting-nu-yak--Pemmican placed _en + cache_--Cape Weynton--Colvile Bay--High hill--Dogs giving + way--Work increased--Snow-house-building--Point Beaufort--Point + Siveright--Keith Bay--Cape Barclay--Another _cache_--Leave the + coast and proceed across the land--River A-ma-took--Dogs knocked + up--Lake Ballenden--Harrison islands--Party left to procure + provisions--Proceed with two of the men--Cape Berens--Relative + effects of an eastern and western aspect--Halkett Inlet--Reach + Lord Mayor's Bay--Take formal possession of the + country--Commence our return to winter quarters--Friendly + interview with the natives--Obtain supplies of provisions from + them--View of Pelly Bay--Trace the shore to the eastward--Travel + by night--Explore the coast of Simpson's Peninsula--Arrive at + Fort Hope--Occurrences during the absence of the exploring + party--Character of the Esquimaux Ivitchuk 97 + + CHAPTER VII. + + Preparations for exploring the coast of Melville + Peninsula--Outfit--Leave Fort Hope--Pass over numerous + lakes--Guide at fault--Dease Peninsula--Arrive at the + sea--Fatigue party sent back to Fort Hope--Barrier of + ice--Lefroy Bay--Large island named after the Prince of + Wales--Detained by stormy weather--Short allowance--Cape Lady + Simpson--Selkirk Bay--Snow knee-deep--Capes Finlayson and + Sibbald--Deer shot--A cooking scene--Favourite native + relish--Again stopped by stormy weather--Cape M'Loughlin--Two + men left to hunt and fish--Cape Richardson--Chain of + islands--Garry Bay--Prince Albert range of hills--Cape + Arrowsmith--Coast much indented--Baker Bay--Provisions + fail--Proceed with one man--Cape Crozier--Parry Bay--Cape + Ellice, the farthest point seen--Take possession--Commence our + return--No provisions procured by the men left behind--Short + commons--Flock of cranes--Snow-blindness--Arrive at Repulse Bay 137 + + CHAPTER VIII. + + Occurrences at Fort Hope during the absence of the exploring + party--Remove from winter quarters to tents--Sun seen at + midnight--Build an oven and bake bread--Esquimaux method of + catching seals--A concert--Lateness of the summer--A native + salmon-wear--Salmon spear--Boulders on the surface of the + ice--Visited by a native from the Ooglit Islands--His report of + occurrences at Igloolik--Indolence of the natives--Ice breaking + up--Halkett's air-boat--A storm--The ice dispersed--Prepare for + sea 165 + + CHAPTER IX. + + Voyage from Repulse Bay to York Factory 178 + + APPENDIX. + + List of Mammalia 199 + ---- Birds 201 + ---- Fishes 204 + ---- Plants 205 + + Specimens of Rocks 215 + + Dip of the needle and force of magnetic attraction at various + stations along the west shore of Hudson's Bay, and at Fort Hope, + Repulse Bay 218 + + Abstract of Meteorological Journal from September, 1846, to + August, 1847 224 + + Figures and Letters used for denoting the state of the weather, + &c. 248 + + + + +[Illustration: _The Discoveries made by The Hon^{ble}. Hudson's Bay +C^{os}. Arctic Expeditions, between the Years 1837 & 1847. are Coloured +Red_ + + NORTHERN AMERICA + + DISCOVERIES + of the + HON^{BLE}. HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY'S + ARCTIC EXPEDITION + in + 1838 & 1839. + +_John Arrowsmith_] + + + + + NARRATIVE, + ETC. ETC. + + +CHAPTER I. + + Object and plan of the Expedition--Equipment at York + Factory--Boats--Crews--Articles useful in an Arctic + Voyage--Breaking up of the ice in Hayes and Nelson + Rivers--Departure from York Factory--Progress retarded by the + ice--First night at sea--Reflections--Rupert's Creek--Unbroken + fields of ice--Broad River--Description of the coast--Double + Cape Churchill--Open sea to the north and north west--Arrive at + Churchill--White whales--Mode of catching them--Sir George + Simpson's instructions--Stock of provisions. + + +It is already well known to those who take an interest in Arctic +discovery, that the Hudson's Bay Company intended fitting out an +expedition in 1840, which was to have proceeded to the northern shores +of America by Back's Great Fish River, for the purpose of tracing the +coast between the river Castor and Pollux of Dease and Simpson, and the +Strait of the Fury and Hecla, as it was then very generally supposed +that Boothia was an island. + +The party was to have been commanded by that able and enterprising +traveller, Mr. Thomas Simpson, whose indefatigable exertions, in +conjunction with those of Mr. Dease, had during the three preceding +years effected so much; but his untimely and melancholy fate prevented +that intention from being carried into effect, and the survey of the +Arctic coast was discontinued for a few years. + +When it was determined that the survey should be resumed, Sir George +Simpson, Governor-in-Chief of the Company's territories, informed me +that a boat expedition to the Arctic Sea was again contemplated, at the +same time doing me the honour of proposing that I should take command of +it,--a charge which I most joyfully accepted. + +The plan of the expedition was different from any that had hitherto been +adopted, and was entirely of Sir George Simpson's forming. Its leading +features were as follows:--A party of thirteen persons, including two +Esquimaux interpreters, was to leave Churchill in two boats at the +disruption of the ice, and coast along the western shore of Hudson's Bay +to the northward as far as Repulse Bay; or, if thought necessary, to the +Strait of the Fury and Hecla. From this latter point the shore of the +Arctic Sea was to be traced to Dease and Simpson's farthest discoveries +eastward; or, if Boothia Felix should be found to form part of the +American continent, up to some place surveyed by Captain or Commander +(now Sir John and Sir James C.) Ross. + +I started from the Sault de S^{te.} Marie in the latter part of July, +1845, in a canoe which I took on with me as far as Red River, where this +frail vessel was changed for a boat, which is better adapted for +traversing large sheets of water. We had rather a stormy passage to +Norway House, at which place five men were engaged for the expedition; +and having brought two with me from the southern department, I required +only three more, who I knew could easily be procured at York Factory. + +At first there was some difficulty in getting volunteers, as a report +had got abroad (set on foot, I believe, by either M'Kay or Sinclair, +guides and steersmen with the expeditions under Sir G. Back and Dease +and Simpson), that the whole party, if not starved for want of food, +would run the risk of being frozen to death for want of fuel. + +After leaving Norway House our progress was slow, the water being very +shallow, and our boat rather a heavy drag, for a single crew, over the +portages. Two Indians who were engaged, the one to go as far as Oxford +House, and the other all the way to York Factory, stipulated that they +should do no work on Sunday; to which I readily agreed, thinking that +they acted conscientiously; and this I really believe to have been the +case with one; but I had some doubts about the sincerity of the other, +when I learned that, before leaving us, he had stolen a shirt and +blanket from one of the boat's crew. + +We arrived at York Factory on the 8th October, during a strong gale of +north-east wind with heavy rain and sleet, which had thoroughly drenched +us all; in addition to which the men were so bedaubed with mud whilst +dragging the boats along shore, that scarcely a feature of their faces +could be distinguished. + +On landing I was most kindly welcomed by Chief-Factor Hargrave and the +other gentlemen of the Factory. + +There was little probability of our being able to get to Churchill by +water this autumn, nevertheless the boats that had been built for the +expedition were launched and put in order for sea. They were fine +looking and strong clinker-built craft, 22 feet long by 7 feet 6 inches +broad, each capable of carrying between fifty and sixty pieces of goods +of 90 lbs. per piece. They were each rigged with two lug sails, to which +a jib was afterwards added; under which, with a strong breeze of wind, +they were found to work admirably. They were named the "North Pole" and +the "Magnet." + +We had a continuance of northerly winds until the ice began to form on +the river, when it would have been highly imprudent to attempt going +along the coast, and I did not wish to run the risk of having our boats +stranded, which would have been a very likely occurrence had we put to +sea. There was, therefore, nothing to be done but to haul our boats up +again; nor did this cause me much disappointment, as I felt pretty +certain that, in the following spring, we could advance as fast to the +northward as the season of the breaking up of the ice did; and this +supposition I afterwards found to be correct. + +My attention was now turned to the proper equipment of my party, in +which I was most ably assisted by Chief-Factor Hargrave and my friend, +Mr. W. Mactavish, who was in charge of York during the temporary absence +of the former gentleman; so that, with keeping a meteorological +journal--in which the temperature of the air, height of the barometer, +force and direction of the winds, and state of the weather were +registered eight times a day--and taking observations for latitude, +longitude, variation of the compass, and dip of the needle, &c., I had +occupation enough on my hands. + +Among other articles which I thought might be useful, were a small +sheet-iron stove for each boat, a set of sheet-iron lamps for burning +oil after the Esquimaux fashion, some small kettles (commonly called +conjurors) having a small basin and perforated tin stand for burning +alcohol, a seine net, and four small windows, each of two double panes +of glass. An oiled canvass canoe was made, and we also had one of +Halkett's air boats, large enough to carry three persons. This last +useful and light little vessel ought to form part of the equipment of +every expedition. + +On the 30th April, 1846, that harbinger of spring, the Canada goose, was +seen; and so early as the 5th May the ice in Hayes' River commenced +breaking up; but it was more than a month after this date before the +Nelson or North River opened. At length, on the 12th June, it was +reported that a passage was practicable, and everything was got in +readiness for making a start on the following day. + +The crews of the boats were divided as follows:-- + + NORTH POLE. + + John Rae. + John Corrigal, Orkneyman, Steersman. + Richard Turner, half-breed, Middleman. + Edward Hutchison, Orkneyman, ditto. + Hilard Mineau, Canadian, ditto. + Nibitabo, Cree Indian, ditto and hunter. + + MAGNET. + + George Flett, Orkneyman, Steersman. + John Folster, ditto, Middleman. + William Adamson, Zetlander, ditto. + Jacques St. Germain, Canadian, ditto. + Peter Matheson, Highlander, ditto. + +All these men had the same wages, namely, £40 per annum, with the +promise of a gratuity in the event of good conduct. + +The lading of each of the boats, including the men's luggage, amounted +to about seventy pieces; and with this cargo they were quite deep enough +in the water and very much lumbered--so much so that, to allow room for +pulling, a quantity of the cargo had to be displaced. + +On the 13th June, after bidding farewell to our kind friends at York, +and receiving a salute of seven guns and three hearty cheers, we set +sail with a light air of fair wind. We had not proceeded more than a +mile down the river, when the wind chopped round directly in our teeth, +and blew a gale. As I could not think of turning back, we were speedily +under close-reefed sails, turning to windward; the wind and tide were +going in opposite directions, and there was an ugly cross sea running, +which caused us to ship much water over both the lee and weather side. +After a couple hours of this work we gained sufficient offing to clear +the shallows, which lie for some miles out from the point of Marsh, +(this being the name of the N.E. extremity of York Island), and stood +across towards the north shore of the Nelson River. The men in the +Magnet, having erroneously carried on too great a press of canvass, were +left a mile or two astern. As we advanced the wind gradually abated, and +we soon fell in with quantities of ice driving along with the current, +through which we had much difficulty in finding a passage. + +We made the land near Sam's Creek; and it being now calm, and flood tide +strong against us, we cast anchor close to the shore between 9 and 10 +o'clock. The night was beautiful, and, as all my men had gone to sleep, +nothing interrupted the stillness around but the occasional blowing of a +white whale, the rather musical note of the "caca wee" (long-tailed +duck), or the harsh scream of the great northern diver. Yet I could not +close my eyes. Nor was this wakefulness caused by the want of comfort in +my bed, which I must own was none of the most inviting, as it consisted +of a number of hard-packed bags of flour, over which a blanket was +spread, so that I had to accommodate myself in the best way I could to +the inequalities of the surface. To a man who had slept soundly in all +sorts of places--on the top of a round log, in the middle of a swamp, as +well as on the wet shingle beach, such a bed was no hardship; but +thoughts now pressed upon me which during the bustle and occupation of +preparation had no time to intrude. I could not conceal from myself that +many of my brother officers, men of great experience in the Indian +country, were of opinion that we ran much risk of starving; little was +known of the resources of that part of the country to which we were +bound; and all agreed that there was little chance of procuring fuel, +unless some oil could be obtained from the natives. Yet the novelty of +our route, and of our intended mode of operations, had a strong charm +for me, and gave me an excitement which I could not otherwise have felt. + +14th.--As there were great quantities of ice along the shore to the +northward of us, I let the boats take the ground, so that this morning +they were high and dry on the mud, the water being a mile or two outside +of us, and we as far from the high-water mark. + +As the Goose Hunt House (a small hut where one of the Company's servants +and some Indians go every spring and autumn to shoot and salt geese,) +was at no great distance, I visited it, but found that the people had +taken their departure for the Factory--a certain sign that the geese and +ducks had gone farther north. Numbers of the Hudsonian godwit (_limosa +Hudsonica_) were flying about, apparently intending to breed in the +neighbourhood. + +The boats floated at a quarter after 10 A.M., and we got under weigh +with a fine light breeze from the S.E. The temperature of the air was +62° and the water 40°. There were many pieces of ice floating about, and +a great quantity close-packed about half a mile outside. At mid-day we +were in latitude 57° 25' 93" N. After running by Massey's patent log for +10¾ miles north, we were stopped by ice at a few minutes after 1 P.M., +when we made fast to a large grounded mass, which protected us from the +smaller floating pieces as long as the tide was ebbing; but as soon as +the flood made, it required all our exertions to prevent the boats being +damaged. We now found the great advantage of some sheet copper that had +been nailed on their bows, as it completely protected them from being +chafed. At 11 next forenoon, finding our situation rather dangerous, as +soon as the tide flowed far enough, we pushed inshore, and beached the +boats on a fine smooth surface of mud and gravel. With the exception of +a heavy shower of rain at 6 A.M., the weather continued fine all day, +but the sky was too cloudy to permit any observations to be made. + +On the 16th we advanced only 1½ miles. The temperature of the air 42° +and the water 34°. By an azimuth of the sun the variation of the +compass, 10° 54' east, was obtained. + +As it was only at, or near, high-water that we could make any progress, +we crept along shore about four miles during the morning's tide, and in +the evening we put into Rupert's Creek, which afforded us good shelter, +and also fresh water, of which we were getting rather short. A fresh +breeze from the east brought in much ice, which completely blockaded our +harbour. The morning of the 18th was very fine, but the easterly wind +still continued, and such was the effect produced by it that not a spot +of open water was to be seen. The latitude 57° 32' 18" was observed, and +an observation of the sun's azimuth yesterday gave the variation of the +compass 9° 56' E. Some partridges (_tetrao saliceti_), ducks, and a +flat-billed phalarope (_P. fulicarius_) were shot. + +19th.--The ice having become somewhat more open during the night, we +left the creek at 4 A.M., and ran 32½ miles before a fine breeze of S.E. +wind, through lanes of open water, as nearly as possible in a N.N.E. +course. Large unbroken fields, on which numbers of seals were lying, now +opposed our further progress. At high-water next morning, we set forward +among ice so closely packed, that we were obliged to open a passage by +pushing aside the smaller pieces; we thus gained between two and three +miles and reached Broad River. We lay here during the remainder of the +day, which was too cloudy for a meridian observation; but in the evening +an amplitude of the sun gave variation 12° 19' east. The dip of the +needle was 84° 46' 4". + +The morning's tide of the 21st advanced us nearly three miles. Our new +position was found to be in latitude 58° 9' 51" N.; the latitude of +Broad River must therefore be 58° 7' N. A strong breeze of S.S.W. wind +had driven out some of the ice, so that, with the aid of sails and +poles, we gained 12 miles more northing in the evening. + +From the 22nd to the 24th we continued to creep alongshore, but our +progress was very slow, 19 miles being, at the highest estimate, as much +as we gained. We were, however, killing ducks of various kinds, and +collecting eggs enough to keep us in food. A deer was also shot by +Nibitabo on the 22nd, and on the 24th I procured from a high mound of +ice, where it was feeding, what appeared to be a Canada nuthatch (_sitta +Canadensis_). The skin was preserved, and is with other specimens in the +Honourable Hudson's Bay Company's warehouse in London. + +On the 25th we lay all day in a small creek, which afforded us a safe +harbour. + +The wind, which had yesterday blown a strong gale from the N.E., shifted +round to W., which gave us some hopes of an opening to seaward. In the +evening much ice drove out with the ebb. The latitude of our position by +reduction to the meridian was 58° 31' N. + +26th.--This morning we were fortunate enough, after a great deal of +trouble, to get the boats into comparatively open water, and as the wind +was moderate from E.S.E. we threaded our way, through narrow channels +and openings, until opposite Cape Churchill. At 3 P.M. we doubled the +cape, and to our great joy found an open sea to the north and north west +of it. + +The whole of the coast between Nelson River and Cape Churchill is low +and flat, with not a single rock in situ. There are, however, a number +of boulder stones of granite, and debris of limestone, to be seen. + +There are numerous lakelets near the shore, the banks of which form the +favourite breeding places of the Canada goose, the mallard, pintail, +teal, scaup, and long-tailed ducks, great northern diver,[1] and the +Arctic tern. The phalaropus hyperboreus is also very numerous--so much +so that I could have shot twenty in half-an-hour. The female of this +phalarope and of the P. fulicarius is considerably larger, and has much +finer markings on its plumage, than the male, the colours being much +brighter. + +As we sailed along shore to the westward, the land gradually became more +high and rocky, and there were many ridges of stones lying off several +miles from the beach, among which we had some trouble in threading our +way, the navigation being rendered still more difficult by a thick fog. + +We arrived at the mouth of Churchill River at 3 A.M. on the 27th, but as +the tide was ebbing we could not stem the current, so that we did not +reach the Company's Fort, situated on the west bank of the river and +about five miles up, until half-past six, when I was most kindly +welcomed by my friend Mr. Sinclair, chief trader, the gentleman in +charge, who had not expected to see us so early. + +My letter of instructions had not yet arrived, so that we took advantage +of the delay thus occasioned to have the boats unloaded, some slight +repairs effected, and the cargoes examined and dried. I determined on +leaving here some tobacco, salt, and one or two other articles that were +not absolutely essential, supplying their place with pemmican and flour. +Some observations for the dip of the needle gave mean dip 84° 47' 3". +The variation of the compass 12° 29' east, and the latitude of the +Establishment 58° 44' 12" were found, and the mean time of 70 vertical +vibrations of the needle in the magnetic meridian was 148". + +The people of the fort were busy killing white whales, great numbers of +which come up the river with the flood tide. The mode of taking them is +very simple. A boat, having a harpooner both at bow and stern, sails out +among the shoal, and being painted white, it does not alarm them; they +approach quite close, and are thus easily struck. When harpooned they do +not run any great distance in one direction, but dart about much in the +way that a trout does when hooked. + +On the evening of the 4th July the anxiously expected instructions +arrived from Red River, viâ York Factory. The following is a copy of +them:-- + + "_Red River Settlement_, + "15th June, 1846. + + "SIR, + + "You are aware that the grand object of the expedition which has + been placed under your direction is to complete the geography of + the northern shore of America, by surveying the only section of + the same that has not yet been traced, namely, the deep bay, as + it is supposed to be, stretching from the western extremity of + the Straits of the Fury and Hecla to the eastern limit of the + discoveries of Messrs. Dease and Simpson. + + "2. For this purpose you will proceed from Churchill with the + two boats, and twelve men that have been selected for this + arduous and important service, losing not a moment, at least on + your outward voyage, in examining such part of the coast as has + already been visited and explored. In a word, you will reach, + with as little loss of time as possible, the interesting scene + of your exclusive labours. + + "3. In prosecuting the survey in question, you will, as a matter + of course, endeavour to ascertain as accurately as circumstances + may permit, without occasioning any serious delay, the latitudes + and longitudes of all the most remarkable points within the + range of your operations, and also the general bearing and + extent of all the intermediate portions of coast, embodying the + whole at the same time in the form of a chart, or rather of the + draft of a chart, from day to day. + + "4. But in addition to this, your principal and essential task, + you will devote as much of your attention as possible to various + subordinate and incidental duties. You will do your utmost, + consistently with the success of your main object, to attend to + botany and geology; to zoology in all its departments; to the + temperature both of the air and of the water; to the conditions + of the atmosphere and the state of the ice; to winds and + currents; to the soundings as well with respect to bottom as + with respect to depth; to the magnetic dip and the variation of + the compass; to the aurora borealis and the refraction of light. + You will also, to the best of your opportunities, observe the + ethnographical peculiarities of the Esquimaux of the country; + and in the event of your wintering within the Arctic Circle, you + will be careful to notice any characteristic features or + influences of the long night of the high latitudes in question. + These particulars, and such others as may suggest themselves to + you on the spot, you will record fully and precisely in a + journal, to be kept, as far as practicable, from day to day, + collecting at the same time any new, curious, or interesting + specimens, in illustration of any of the foregoing heads. + + "5. In order to provide against the probable necessity of + requiring two seasons for your operations, you will take with + you all the provisions that your boats can carry, with such + shooting, hunting, and fishing tackle as may enable you to + husband your supplies. I need hardly mention medicines and warm + clothing among the necessaries of your voyage, for, in full + reliance on your professional zeal and ability, I place the + health of your people, under Providence, entirely in your hands. + + "6. In the event of wintering in the country, you will cultivate + the most friendly relations with the natives, taking care, + however, to guard against surprise. For this purpose you will + repeatedly and constantly inculcate on your men, collectively + and individually, the absolute necessity of mildness and + firmness, of frankness and circumspection. + + "7. If, in the event of your being unable to accomplish the + whole of your task in one season, you see ground for doubting + whether the resources of the country are competent to maintain + the whole of your people, you will in that case send back a part + of them to Churchill with one of the boats. For the remaining + part of your men you cannot fail to find subsistence, animated + as you and they are by a determination to fulfil your mission at + the cost of danger, fatigue, and privation. Wherever the natives + can live, I can have no fears with respect to you, more + particularly as you will have the advantage of the Esquimaux, + not merely in your actual supplies, but also in the means of + recruiting and renewing them. + + "8. During the winter you will pursue the various objects of the + expedition by making excursions with a due regard, of course, to + safety, on the snow or on the ice; and at the close of your + second season, after having accomplished the whole of your task, + you will return according to your own discretion, either by your + original course or by Back's Great Fish River, keeping + constantly in view, till you reach Churchill or Great Slave + Lake, the general spirit of these your instructions. + + "9. In conclusion, let me assure you that we look confidently to + you for the solution of what may be deemed the final problem in + the geography of the northern hemisphere. The eyes of all who + take an interest in the subject are fixed on the Hudson's Bay + Company; from us the world expects the final settlement of the + question that has occupied the attention of our country for two + hundred years; and your safe and triumphant return, which may + God in His mercy grant, will, I trust, speedily compensate the + Hudson's Bay Company for its repeated sacrifices and its + protracted anxieties. + + "I remain, + "Sir, &c. + + (Signed) "G. SIMPSON." + + "John Rae, Esq. + "Churchill, + "Hudson's Bay." + +The boats were loaded during the night, and at 6 A.M. were sent down to +the old stone fort at the mouth of the river, where they were to wait +for me a few hours. Besides an abundant supply of ammunition, guns, +nets, twines, &c. for our own use, and various articles for presents and +to barter with the Esquimaux, we had on board + + 20 bags pemmican, about 90 lbs. each, + 2 ditto grease, " 90 lbs. " + 25 ditto flour, each 1 cwt. + 4 gallons of alcohol for fuel; + +with a good stock of tea, sugar, and chocolate, but only four gallons of +brandy and two gallons of port wine, as I was well aware of the bad +effects of spirits in a cold climate. Considering that we were to be +absent fifteen or perhaps twenty-seven months, our quantity of +provisions (amounting in all to little more than four months' +consumption at full allowance) was not very great. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[1] The male and female of the northern diver (_colymbus glacialis_) +resemble one another so much that it is very difficult to distinguish +the one from the other. The immature bird has often been described by +ornithologists as the female. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + Depart from Churchill--A gale--Anchor in Knap's Bay--Land on an + island--Esquimaux graves--Visited by Esquimaux--A large river + running into Knap's Bay--Nevill's Bay--Corbet's Inlet--Rankin's + Inlet--Cape Jalabert--Greenland whales seen--Chesterfield + Inlet--Walruses--Cape Fullerton--Visited by an + Esquimaux--Reefs--Cape Kendall seen--Ice packed against the + shore--Take shelter in an excellent harbour--River + traced--Seals--Gale--Ice driven off--Direction of the tides + reversed--Whale Point--Many whales seen--Again stopped by the + pack--Wager River estuary--Ice drifts--Eddy currents--No second + opening into Wager River seen--Enter Repulse Bay--Interview with + Esquimaux--No intelligence of Sir John Franklin. + + +Having taken on board Ouligbuck and one of his sons as Esquimaux +interpreters, and bid adieu to Mr. Sinclair, who, during our stay, had +omitted nothing that could in any way tend to the comfort of the party, +we set sail at 11 o'clock on the 5th July with a light air of N.N.E. +wind, and stood to the westward across Button's Bay. The weather was +fine, and to enliven the scene numbers of white whales were seen +sporting about, and sometimes coming within a few yards of the boats. +The men were all in excellent health and spirits, there not being a +melancholy look nor a desponding word to be seen or heard among them. + +At 3.30 P.M. we passed Pauk-a-thau-kis-cow River, and the wind having +freshened and shifted round to the S.E. we had run upwards of forty +miles before 10 o'clock. The temperature of the air was 49°, and of the +water 50°, thus showing that there was little or no ice in the +neighbourhood. + +The night being fine we continued under sail, the crews being divided +into two watches. The land had now become much lower than it was about +Churchill, and the coast very flat; so that it was necessary to keep six +or eight miles from the land when the tide was out; and even then, +although the boats drew only two and a half feet water, there was little +enough for them. The bottom was of mud, sand, or shingle, with every +here and there a large boulder stone, some of them ten or twelve feet +high. + +Early on the morning of the 6th three Esquimaux came off in their +kayaks, and although we were going at the rate of four miles an hour +they easily overtook us. As they were going towards Churchill, I sent a +few lines to Mr. Sinclair by them. + +Our latitude at noon was 60° 17' 59" N. Thermometer in air 49°, in water +45°. The total distance run, measured by Massey's log, was ninety-five +miles, which agreed very nearly with our latitude, the difference being +easily accounted for by the circumstance that the ebb tide runs much +stronger to the northward than the flood does in an opposite direction. + +In the afternoon there was a strong breeze, which, although fair, was +rather too much onshore and raised a heavy sea. At 5 P.M., having run +twenty-five miles since noon, we got into shallow water, and although +the heads of the boats were immediately turned to seaward, the ebb tide +was too quick for us, and we got aground, being ten miles from the main +shore. Five miles N.W. of us there was a small but steep island, on the +E. side of which there was still a deep snow drift. By a meridian +altitude of the moon our latitude was 60° 47' 24" N. + +The following morning we floated at 2 A.M., and with a strong breeze +from S.E. stood on our course. The weather looked threatening, and we +had not been long out before the wind increased to a gale, and the sea +rose in proportion. The boats fully realised the good opinion we had of +them, but being so deeply laden the sea broke frequently over them, and +kept us continually baling; at last the Magnet shipped a heavy sea, and +the steersman, either from losing his presence of mind or from not +knowing how to act, allowed the boat to broach to. Fortunately no other +sea struck her whilst thus placed, else both she and the crew must +inevitably have been lost. I here saw the benefit of the precaution I +had taken to have some Orkneymen with me, for it was evident the others +(although as good fellows as could possibly be wished) knew nothing +about the management of a boat in such weather. + +I was loath to lose so fine an opportunity of getting on, but it would +have been recklessness to attempt proceeding. We accordingly ran in +towards Knap's Bay, which was nearly abreast of us, and were soon +anchored in a snug cove under the lee of the largest island in the bay. +It was well that we put in here, for the wind in a short time increased +to a perfect storm with heavy rain. + +On a neighbouring island some miles to the south of us, many Esquimaux +tents were seen, but we could not discover if they were inhabited. + +Notwithstanding the rain I took my gun and made a tour of the island. It +is about two miles long, a quarter of a mile broad, and not exceeding +100 feet in height, being covered with a scanty vegetation, and thickly +strewn in many places with fragments of granite. + +I met with a great many Esquimaux graves, the bodies being protected +from wild animals by an arch of stone built over them. We found a number +of spear-heads, knives, &c. placed in some of these heaps of stones; but +the Esquimaux do not, I believe, destroy all the property of the +deceased, as is common among most tribes of Indians. + +Tracks were seen of a large white bear which had evidently been feasting +on the eggs of various wildfowl that breed here; among these I noticed +the eider duck (_fuligula mollissima_), the long-tailed duck (_fuligula +glacialis_), and the black guillimot (_uria grylle_). + +In the evening, when the wind had somewhat moderated, we were visited +by five Esquimaux from the tents before mentioned; they each received a +piece of tobacco, of which they are remarkably fond, and one of them +promised to carry or forward to Churchill a letter which I addressed to +Sir George Simpson. In a net that we had set, a salmon weighing 10 lbs. +was caught. A large and deep river empties its waters into this bay; its +course is about due east, and it abounds with salmon, seals, and white +whales, being consequently a favourite resort of the natives. The rise +of the tide was thirteen feet. When about to go to bed I found my +blankets quite wet by the seas that washed over me in the morning; this, +however, made them keep out the wind better, and did not certainly +affect my rest. + +The following day was more moderate, but it was 2 P.M. before we could +venture out of our harbour. By observation the latitude 61° 9' 42" N., +and the variation of the compass 7° 48' east were obtained; the dip of +the needle being 86° 18' 3" N. + +At 4 A.M. on the 9th the wind went round so far to the east that we +could not lie our course; it rained heavily, but the wind became more +favourable, and we stood over towards the north shore of Nevill's Bay. +The temperature of the water at mid-day 37°, air 44°; latitude by +observation 61° 55' 40" N. + +We passed among many small islands, the resort of great numbers of the +birds already mentioned, which we used as food (although not very +palatable) to save our pemmican. I also noticed a few of foolish +guillimot (_uria troile_), the first we had met with.[2] At half-past +five, it being calm, we landed on a small island to get some water; we +found a few Hutchins geese here, one of them having a brood of young +with her. These appear to have taken the place of the Canada goose, as I +have not seen any of the latter lately. At 8 o'clock, it still being +calm, we pulled up towards the north point of Nevill's Bay, which bore +east of us. No ice was to be seen, but there were numerous patches of +snow on the main shore N.E. of us, distant 10 or 11 miles. + +I saw a young shore lark and a young snow bunting, both able to fly. +There are quantities of red, grey, and blue granite in this island, +variegated with quartz. + +The shores had now become steep and rugged, the whole coast being lined +with bare primitive rocks. + +After breakfast next morning we pulled round the east end of some rocks +near which we had lain at anchor during the flood tide, and kept on our +course across Whale Cove. Some small pieces of ice were seen floating +about; the thermometer in the shade 55°, water 36°. A fog, which had +been thick all the morning, cleared up at half-past ten, and we saw some +islands at no great distance right ahead, and a smoke a few miles inland +on our beam, probably made by Esquimaux, but we could not see any tents. +Our latitude by observation was 62° 11' 23" N. Temperature of air 55°, +of water 37°. + +The weather was very variable, with calms and light breezes alternately. +At a little after 7 in the evening we were off the south point of +Corbet's Inlet. It rained hard almost all night; we, however, continued +our course, and at 7 A.M. got among a number of reefs and islands that +lie near the south point of Rankin's Inlet. In attempting to pass +between two of these our boat got aground, and as the tide was ebbing +she could not be shoved afloat again; but, as the greater part of the +cargo was carried on shore before the water fell very far, no damage was +done. An excellent observation of the sun gave latitude 62° 35' 47" N., +variation 6° 6' W., Marble Island bearing east by compass. The black +guillimot was in such numbers here that four or five were killed at one +shot. Many eggs were collected, and one nest was found having two eider +and three long-tailed ducks' eggs in it. The eider had possession, but +whether the birds had a mutual understanding, or whether the stronger +had driven out the weaker possessor, it is difficult to say. + +At 4 P.M. we floated and ran across the inlet, the traverse being 15 +miles. We landed at its north point, as the wind and tide were both +against us. There were numerous signs that this place is often visited +by the Esquimaux; the bones of various animals and the remains of some +stone "caches" being every where visible. A little before midnight a +deer was shot by Corrigal. During a walk I fell in with a large white +owl (_strix nyctra_). As is usually the case it was very shy, and could +not be approached within gun-shot.[3] + +The rise of the tide was 14 feet. + +At half-past two A.M. on the 13th we landed at Jalabert. The morning +was delightful, being quite calm with a sharp frost. While we lay here +waiting the change of the tide, Ouligbuck shot a fine large buck. Many +seals were sporting about, and a shoal of salmon were seen swimming +close to the beach. Having taken on board our venison, we pulled with +the tide now in our favour. We saw upwards of a dozen Greenland whales, +all apparently busy feeding, some of them very large. At noon we were in +latitude 63° 6' 14" N. The variation of the compass 8° 52' W. In the +evening we passed Chesterfield Inlet. Great numbers of rocks lie out +fully eight miles from the shore on its north side. The wind continued +fair and moderate all night, and at 6 in the morning, when in the large +bay S.W. of Cape Fullerton, a single Esquimaux visited us in his kayak. +He had been at Churchill last year, but did not intend to go thither +this season, although he had a number of wolf, fox, and parchment deer +skins at his tent. A present of a knife and a piece of tobacco made him +quite happy, and he left us shouting so loudly as to show that his lungs +were in good order. The party to which he belongs consists of ten +families, their hunting-grounds being situated on the borders of +Chesterfield Inlet, where they spear a great number of deer whilst +swimming across in the autumn. At some distance inland, woods are +found. A number of walruses were observed lying on a small ridge of +rocks. They were grunting and bellowing--making a noise which I fancy +would much resemble a concert of old boars and buffaloes. We did not +disturb their music. Obtained a meridian observation of the sun, which +gave latitude 64° 3' 42" N. As the refraction was great and the natural +horizon used, this is probably erroneous; if it is not, Cape Fullerton +is not properly laid down in the charts, being too far to the south. +Temperature of the air 58°, water 41°. + +When doubling Cape Fullerton, we were obliged, by the numerous granite +reefs, to keep six or seven miles from the mainland. At 7 in the evening +we landed to replenish our water casks, and had an unsuccessful chase +after two deer. The horizon being clear, I saw Cape Kendall on +Southampton Island, bearing S.E. by S. magnetic. + +15th.--We made but little progress last night, there being no wind. The +weather was rather cold, the thermometer standing at 40°, and the water +being only 4° above the freezing point indicated the proximity of ice. A +short time afterwards a large _pack_ was seen about five miles distant. +On approaching nearer, we found that it extended along shore as far as +the eye could see. At 2 P.M. we ran inshore, and took shelter under some +grey-coloured granite rocks twenty feet high. Deer being noticed at no +great distance, two or three sportsmen went after them, and succeeded +in shooting a doe. A very large whale was observed. + +Finding our present position far from being a safe one, at high water we +pushed along shore among masses of ice during a thick fog, and entered +an inlet which opportunely presented itself, and which proved to be an +excellent harbour about 200 yards wide, from four to six fathoms deep, +and nearly four miles long. The bottom being sand and mud would afford +excellent anchorage for much larger craft than ours. As there were many +seals swimming about, I was led to infer that salmon or trout were +abundant; two nets were put down, but no fish were caught. + +During a two days' detention here I traced, for eight miles, the course +of a considerable river which empties its waters into the inlet. I found +it to be a succession of rapids and deep pools, and running as nearly as +possible in a S.S.E. course. Near its mouth upwards of thirty seals were +lying basking in the sun; a ball fired among them sent the whole party +walloping into the water at a great rate, more frightened, however, than +hurt. One of the men had accompanied me, and during our walk we met with +a hen partridge (_tetrao rupestris_) and her brood. I have seen many +birds attempt to defend their young, but never witnessed one so +devotedly brave as this mother; she ran about us, over and between our +feet, striking at our hands when we attempted to take hold of her young, +so that she herself was easily made prisoner. Although kept in the hand +some time, when let loose again she continued her attacks with unabated +courage and perseverance, and was soon left mistress of the field, with +her family safe around her. + +We were fortunate in finding some willows fully an inch in diameter, +which were far superior for fuel to the sea-weed and short heath we had +been using for the last two days. + +Hutchins geese breed here in numbers, and as no Canada geese were seen, +I presume that they do not usually come so far north along the coast. +The shores have a very rugged appearance, there being numerous high +ridges of primitive rocks running far out into the sea in an east and +west direction, the line of stratification dipping to the south at an +angle of 75° with the horizon. In many places these rocks were thickly +studded with small garnets. The rise and fall of the tide was 13½ feet. + +During the whole of the 16th the weather was cloudy, and it rained +heavily all night; but on the 17th the wind increased to a gale, the sky +cleared up, and a satisfactory observation was obtained by the +artificial horizon, which placed us in latitude 64° 6' 45" N. As we were +more than ten miles north of the situation where I had observed the +latitude on the 14th, the difference between the latitude obtained then +and that of our present situation shews the uncertainty of observations +made with the natural horizon when there is much refraction, or when +there is ice in the neighbourhood. The variation of the compass was 20° +10' W. The gale continued all day, and being from the westward much ice +was driven off shore. + +18th. Last night the wind moderated a little, but about 2 A.M. it blew +more strongly than before. The forenoon was sufficiently fine to permit +me to observe the dip of the needle 86° 36' 5" N. + +In the afternoon, when collecting plants, I discovered some willows of a +larger growth than those we had before found, and I carried a load of +them to the boat. In the evening there was no ice to be seen either +along shore or in the offing, but it still blew too hard for us to get +under weigh. The temperature of the air to-day varied from 50° to 55°. +Just as I had turned in for the night, it was reported that two white +bears were close at hand. I immediately got up, and set off "sans +culottes" to have a share of the anticipated sport, when I soon +discovered that two harmless deer in their winter coats had been +mistaken for bears. It was high water to-day at 11h. 40m. A.M., the rise +being 15 feet. By this it will appear that 3 o'clock is the time of high +water at full and change of the moon. + +At 3 next morning, the wind having moderated, we started, and ran along +shore at a fine rate for ten miles; but here the coast turning more to +the westward we could not lie our course, and were compelled to put +ashore until the flood tide made; for it was found that, contrary to +what we had previously experienced, the current ran to the northward +during the flow of the tide, and in an opposite direction during the +ebb, this being probably caused by the strait north of Southampton +Island being blocked up with ice. After an hour's stay we got under +weigh again at a few minutes after seven, and turned to windward. Our +latitude at noon was 64° 20' 51" N. It now fell calm; but this had not +continued more than half an hour before a light breeze sprung up from +the east, and at 1 P.M. we passed Whale Point. A great many whales were +seen to-day, and one of them was swimming amongst a large flock of king +ducks, apparently amusing itself with the confusion that it caused when +rising to breathe. Temperature of the air 50°--water 38°. + +20th. It being calm for some time during the night, we came to anchor +whilst the tide was against us; but at 6 A.M. we again continued our +route. There was much ice lying along the shore of Southampton Island, +its proximity being indicated by the temperature of the water (35°) this +morning. Some more large whales were noticed. The ice was again too +close packed to permit us to advance; we therefore landed, and the +latitude 64° 56' 33" N., and the variation of the compass 36° 13' W., +were observed. The musquitoes were very numerous and troublesome, but, +nevertheless, the sportsmen succeeded in shooting five deer. + +On the 21st and 22d we had a continued struggle amongst heavy and +close-packed ice until we reached Wager River Estuary, where we were +detained all day by the immense quantities driving in with the flood and +out again with the ebb tide, which ran at the rate of 7 or 8 miles an +hour, forcing up the floes into large mounds, and grinding them against +the rocks, with a noise resembling thunder. + +During the ebb tide the eddy currents once or twice brought in the ice +with great force, which would have smashed our boats, as they lay in +rather an exposed situation along the face of some steep rocks, had it +not fortunately taken the ground before it reached us. During our stay, +a meridian observation of the sun by artificial horizon gave latitude +65° 15' 36" N., variation 48° 13' W. + +23d. There was a thin coat of ice on the water this morning, the +temperature of which at midnight was 2° below the freezing point, that +of the air 36°. As our position was far from safe, we were kept on the +alert all night, and got under weigh at half-past three, for the purpose +of finding some safer harbour. To get to a small bay a mile and a half +to the west of us, we had more than once to pull for our lives, as the +eddy currents already spoken of caused such sudden and uncertain +movements among the ice that there was no telling on what side we were +to expect it. With much difficulty we entered our harbour, and pulled +half a mile up, so as to be safe from the ice, which we had reason to +expect would come in with the flood. The latitude of our new anchorage +was 65° 16' 8" N. This is the most northerly point on the south side of +Wager River, which appears to be not very correctly laid down in the +charts. The channel is not more than four or five miles broad. In the +evening, being wearied with delay, as soon as the flood tide slacked, we +pushed out into the stream, and when in mid-channel had the advantage of +a fine breeze, which enabled us to stem the current that still ran at +the rate of five miles an hour. The boats had some narrow escapes, and +the Magnet received a severe squeeze, but fortunately sustained no +injury, and we were soon in safety on the north side of the channel. + +24th. Having pulled along shore all night, we cast anchor at half-past +five this morning to take breakfast and give rest to the men. Our course +since crossing Wager River had been among a number of small rocky +islands, between which we had some difficulty in threading our way, but +we did not see any signs of a second opening into Wager Bay, although a +sharp look-out was kept. A light air of fair wind springing up, we got +under weigh at a few minutes before 8, and stood on to the northward, +the ebb tide again running with us. At mid-day the temperature of the +air was 45°, water 32°. + +In the afternoon the breeze increased, and at a quarter-past seven we +rounded Cape Hope, and ran into Repulse Bay. By an amplitude of the sun +whilst setting, the variation of the compass 62° 40' W. was obtained. +As soon as we passed the Cape a great change in the temperature of the +air and water was observed, the former being 56°, and the latter 46°. + +25th. We continued under sail all night, and at 6 in the morning were +within seven miles of the head of the Bay, and cast anchor between a +small island and the shore to get some fuel and cook breakfast. Our +latitude was 66° 26' 57" N. Variation of compass 59° 10' W. + +In the afternoon, the wind being ahead, we plied to windward, and when +entering Gibson's Cove, observed with much joy four Esquimaux on the +shore. I immediately landed near them, and taking Ouligbuck's son with +me as interpreter, joined the party, and calling out Texma (peace), +shook hands with them. They were at first in great fear, and appeared +half inclined to run away, but on our kind intentions towards them being +explained they became quite at ease, chatting and laughing as if we had +been old acquaintances. They were good-looking, of low stature, and much +more cleanly than those in Hudson's Straits. Their dresses were made of +deer skin, of the form so often described, the coat having a long tail +somewhat resembling that of an English dress coat. Their legs were +encased in waterproof boots made of seal-skin, and they all wore +mittens, which they seldom took off their hands. There were two of them +middle-aged, Oo-too-ou-ni-ak (who had a formidable beard and whiskers) +and Kir-ik-too-oo; the other two were lads from eighteen to twenty years +of age; and we were soon after joined by a fine young fellow with ruddy +cheeks and sparkling black eyes, having an expression of exceeding good +humour in his laughing countenance. Our new friend wore round his head a +narrow leather band of deer-skin ornamented with foxes' teeth, and +appeared to be somewhat of a dandy in his own estimation. None of the +party had ever visited Churchill, and they had neither heard nor seen +anything of Sir John Franklin. From a chart drawn by one of the party, I +was led to infer that the sea (Akkoolee), to the west of Melville +Peninsula, was not much more than forty miles distant in a N.N.W. +direction, and that about thirty-five miles of this distance was +occupied by deep lakes; so that we would have only five miles of land to +haul a boat over--a mode of proceeding which, even had the distance been +much greater, I had intended adopting, in preference to going round by +the Fury and Hecla Straits. + +A small river empties its waters into the Bay within a hundred yards of +the place where we landed: this stream, up which the boat was to be +dragged, issues from one of the lakes through which we had to pass. +Leaving all the men but one to unload the boats, I went some miles +inland to trace our intended route. After walking about five miles along +the stream already mentioned (the current in which was very strong), we +arrived at the first lake, a long and narrow body of water, having steep +and in some places rocky banks, which we traced for two miles, and +returned late in the evening to our companions. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[2] These birds breed in great numbers among the rocks in Orkney, and +are much attached to their young. By chasing the latter in a boat they +become so fatigued as to be easily caught. When one of them is taken +into the boat the parent bird approaches within a few feet, dives under +and around the boat in all directions, and whenever it comes up to the +surface utters a peculiarly melancholy note, at the same time turning +its head in a listening attitude as if expecting to hear an answer from +the prisoner. The anxiety of the mother has always the desired effect, +and it is pleasing to observe the joy with which she swims away with her +recovered young one, nestling it under her wing and never permitting it +to stray a foot from her. + +[3] An excellent plan of shooting these birds, and one that I have often +successfully practised, is to roll up a bit of fur or cloth about the +shape and size of a mouse, and drag it after you with a line twenty +yards long. The owl will soon perceive the decoy, although half-a-mile +distant; and after moving his head backwards and forwards as if to make +sure of his object, he takes wing, and making a short sweep in the rear +of his intended prey, pounces upon and seizes it in his claws, affording +the sportsman a fine opportunity of knocking him down. I have sometimes +missed my aim, leaving the owl to fly away with the false mouse (which +the sudden jerk had torn from the line) in his claws. The Indians, +taking advantage of this bird's propensity to alight on elevated spots, +set up pieces of wood in the plains or marshes with a trap fastened to +the top. In this way I have known as many as fifty killed in the early +part of winter by one Indian. The owl is very daring when hungry. I +remember seeing one of these powerful birds fix its claws in a lapdog +when a few yards distant from the owner, and only let go his gripe after +a gun was fired. The poor little dog died of its wounds in a few days. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + Receive a visit from a female party--Their persons and dress + described--Crossing the Isthmus--Drag one of the boats up a + stream--Succession of rapids--North Pole Lake--Find a plant fit + for fuel--Christie Lake--Flett Portage--Corrigal + Lake--Fish--Deer-scaring stones--White wolf--Stony Portage--View + of the sea--Exploring parties sent in advance--Their + report--Long Portage--Difficult tracking--Miles Lake--Muddy + Lake--Rich pasturage and great variety of flowers on its + banks--Marmot burrows--Salt Lake--Visit Esquimaux + tents--Discouraging report of the state of the ice--Esquimaux + chart--Reach the sea--Ross inlet--Point Hargrave--Cape Lady + Pelly--Stopped by the ice--Put ashore--Find a sledge made of + ship-timber--Thick fog--Wolves--Walk along the shore--Remains of + musk-cattle and reindeer--Nature of the coast--Danger from the + ice--Irregular rise of the tide--Deer on the ice--Fruitless + efforts to proceed northward--Cross over to Melville + Peninsula--Gale--Again stopped by the ice--Dangerous position of + the boat--Return to starting point--Meeting with our Esquimaux + friends at Salt Lake--Deer begun to migrate southward--Walk + across the isthmus to Repulse Bay. + +The morning of the 26th was fine, with a fresh breeze from W.N.W. A +visit which I had intended paying to the ladies was anticipated by their +coming over to our side of the river, bag and baggage. They were +accompanied by a very old man named Shad-kow-doo-yak, who was extremely +infirm, being obliged to move about in an almost horizontal posture, +supported by a stick. There were six women, (three old, the other three +young,) the whole of them married. One of the latter appeared quite like +a girl of ten years, and was rather good-looking, having more regular +features, and being cleaner and more neat in her dress than the others. +They were all tatooed on the face, the form on each being nearly the +same, viz. a number of curved lines drawn from between the eyebrows up +over the forehead, two lines across the cheek from near the nose towards +the ear, and a number of diverging curved lines from the lower lip +towards the chin and lower jaw. Their hands and arms were much tatooed +from the tip of the finger to the shoulder. Their hair was collected in +two large bunches, one on each side of the head; and a piece of stick +about ten inches long and half-an-inch thick being placed among it, a +strip of different coloured deer-skin is wound round it in a spiral +form, producing far from an unpleasing effect. They all had ivory combs +of their own manufacture, and deer-skin clothes with the hair inwards; +the only difference between their dresses and those of the men being +that the coats of the former had much larger hoods, (which are used for +carrying children,) in having a flap before as well as behind, and also +in the greater capacity of their boots, which come high above the knee, +and are kept up by being fastened to the girdle. Some needles, beads, +and other trifles were given them, at which they manifested their joy +with loud shouts and yells, differing from the men in this respect, who +received what was given them in silence, although they were evidently +much pleased. + +In the forenoon we were joined by two fine-looking young fellows who had +just returned from hunting deer, in which they had been successful, +having driven a large buck off one of the islands into the water and +speared it there. + +One of the women had been on board the Fury and Hecla, both at Igloolik +and Winter Island, and still wore round her wrist some beads which she +had obtained from these vessels. This party consisted of twenty-six +individuals, there being four families. + +All the cargo being placed in security and the Magnet well moored in our +little land-locked harbour, the party, assisted by four Esquimaux, +commenced dragging the North Pole up the stream. + +The latitude of our landing place was found to be 66° 32' 1" N., being +about seven miles further south than it has been laid down on the +charts. The variation of the compass by an azimuth was 58° 37' 30" W. +This I afterwards found to be erroneous, probably arising from local +attraction. The rate of the chronometer had become so irregular that it +could not be depended upon for finding the longitude, and during the +winter it stopped altogether. + +When about to put on a pair of Esquimaux boots, one of our female +visitors, noticing that the leather of the foot was rather hard, took +them out of my hands and began chewing them with her strong teeth. This +is the mode in which they prepare and soften the seal skin for their +boots, and they are seldom without a piece of leather to gnaw when they +have no better occupation for their teeth. At half-past nine P.M. the +men returned from the boat, having been absent since half-past seven in +the morning. They had with much labour dragged her three miles through a +succession of rapids, the channel being so obstructed with large boulder +stones and rocks, that the most of the party were obliged to be almost +continually up to the waist in ice-cold water. The boat had received +some severe blows and rubs, but no material damage. The worst part of +the river had been passed, and it was only a mile and a-half farther to +the lake (named by the Esquimaux Chi-gi-uwik) from which it takes its +rise. The Esquimaux who had assisted us were paid with a large knife +each. + +Two nets that had been set produced four salmon, but the best season for +catching these fish was over, as they had now returned to deep water. +The evening was cloudy with a strong and chilly breeze from N.N.W. +Temperature of the air at 10 P.M. 35°. + +27th. As soon as the men had finished breakfast they carried each a load +over the rocks to where the boat lay. + +I this morning tried some of our male friends with a little tea and +biscuit, which they did not relish nearly so well as the ladies had done +the previous evening. Indeed, one of the latter, whom I have already +mentioned, knew what biscuit was the moment she saw it, and said she had +eaten some when on board Captain Parry's ships. I remained at our +landing-place until the afternoon to obtain some observations. That for +latitude gave a result different only 4" from that of yesterday. Having +engaged three Esquimaux to carry up some things that were still to be +taken, at one o'clock I followed my men and came up with them some +distance up the lake. As we could not prevail on any of the Esquimaux to +accompany us as guides, they left us here, and I sent back John Folster +and Ouligbuck to take care of the property left behind. + +Our course was nearly N.N.W., but a gale of head wind impeded our +progress greatly. The temperature of the air was 52°; water of lake 40°. +A few hours' poling, pulling, and tracking brought us to the end of the +lake, which is about six miles long, from two hundred yards to half a +mile broad, and in some places thirty fathoms deep. The lake, as well as +the stream up which we had come, was named after our boat. We now turned +to the westward and entered a narrow passage one-and-a-half miles long, +which connects the lake we had passed through with the next one; the +current was strong, but between poling and tracking we soon got into +still water. Our course now turned again to the N.N.W., and after +proceeding a mile in this direction, we put on shore for the night in a +small bay, where we found a good supply of a plant (_andromeda +tetragona_), which answers very well for fuel. + +28th. We did not get under weigh this morning until 6 A.M. as the men +had a hard day's work yesterday, and did not get to rest until a late +hour. The lake continues to trend in the same direction as before, but +the banks are neither so high nor so rocky, being covered with short +grass in many places instead of moss. The wind still kept ahead, so that +it was past ten in the morning before we arrived at a portage, and while +two of the men were preparing breakfast, the others were employed +carrying over some of the baggage. This portage, which I named after +Flett, one of the steersmen, was half a mile long; and being in some +places soft and in others stony, it was half-past four before we were +afloat in the lake on the other side of it. It being calm, great numbers +of fish were seen in this small body of water, which was narrow and only +two-and-a-half miles long, with a deep bay on each side, which gave it +the form of a T. It received the name of Corrigal, after one of my men. +We lost our way here for a short time, having entered a wrong arm of +the lake. At 8 P.M. we arrived at another portage, which being a short +one was soon got over. We pulled in a N.W. direction across this lake +for about three miles to a shallow streamlet that flows from it; here we +were to make our third and I hoped our last portage. We left this for +our next morning's work, as it was now half-past 10 P.M. There was a +great number of stones set up here for the purpose of frightening the +deer into the water. A large white wolf was seen. + +The morning of the 29th was raw and cold, with a gale of wind from N.W. +by N. We got over the portage (which, although short, was covered with +rough granite stones that stuck to our boat's iron-shod keel like glue) +at 20 minutes after 6, and embarked on what I then supposed was another +lake, but which afterwards turned out to be a portion of the second lake +we had entered, and the largest body of fresh water we had yet seen. I +named it after my much-respected and kind friend, Alexander Christie, +Esq., Governor of Red River Colony, whose name has been so often +favourably mentioned by Arctic travellers. + +After pulling W.N.W. for eight miles, we were again in doubt about the +route, and whilst on my way to some high ground in order to ascertain +it, I shot a fine buck with an inch and a half of fat on his haunches. + +We advanced two miles to the head of a small inlet, whence I set out +with one of the men to a neighbouring rising ground to endeavour to +obtain a view of our future route, and, if possible, to get a sight of +the sea. After a fatiguing walk over hill and dale, our eyes were +gladdened with a sight of what we so anxiously looked for, but the view +was far from flattering to our hopes. The sea, or rather the ice on its +surface, was seen apparently not more than twelve miles distant, bearing +north; but there was not a pool of open water visible. It was evident +that our detention in the lakes had as yet lost us nothing. Returning at +8 P.M., I sent four men in two parties to endeavour to discover the best +route, one party being ordered to trace a considerable lake in a N.N.W. +direction, and, if possible, discover its outlet. + +30th.--The men sent off last night returned between 1 and 2 this +morning: those who went to the N.W. reported that there was a small +stream flowing towards the Arctic Sea from the farthest extremity of the +lake they had traced. + +As this account agreed with what we had heard from the Esquimaux, there +was no doubt that we were now in the right track. We had to cross two +portages, each a quarter of a mile, and traverse a lakelet one mile in +extent, before we reached the body of water which the men had traced to +its outlet. It was half-past 2 before we accomplished this work, there +being many obstructions in the form of large granite stones, among and +over which we had to drag the boat. + +The lake in which we now found ourselves is upwards of 27 fathoms deep, +about 6½ miles long, and not more than half a mile broad; it lies nearly +N. by W., and is bounded by banks much more steep and rugged than any we +had yet passed, being in some places two or three hundred feet high. It +is situated in latitude 66° 55' N., and longitude 87° 35' W. We found +that the longest and most difficult portage was now before us. By the +time we had the baggage carried half way over it was getting late, and +we did not take dinner until 9 P.M. + +The following morning was cloudy, with a cold north breeze, which was +not at all unfavourable for the work we had to do. We went to work at an +early hour, but our advance was very slow, as the portage fully realised +the bad opinion that we had formed of it. Hitherto, by laying the anchor +out some distance ahead, and having a block attached to the bow of the +boat by a strop, or what sailors call a swifter, passing round her, we +could form a purchase sufficiently strong to move her with facility, but +here our utmost exertions were required, and the tracking line was +frequently broken. A piece of iron an eighth of an inch thick, which +lined the keel from stem to stern, was actually drawn out and doubled +up, so that it was necessary to remove the whole. At half-past 10, when +half-way across, we breakfasted, after which we met with a bank of snow, +over which we went at a great rate. The latitude, 66° 59' 37" N., was +observed. Near the extremity of the portage there were some ponds of +water deep enough to float the boat, that helped us not a little. The +descent of a steep bank fully a hundred feet high brought us into +another fine lake eight miles long and one mile broad, lying nearly +north and south, with steep rocky shores on its west side: the place +where we came upon its waters was about three miles from its southern +extremity. This lake was named "Miles," after a friend. As it was quite +calm, we pulled up due north and entered a narrow inlet, out of which +there was no passage. We had passed at a mile and a half from this a +stream flowing from the lake, but it looked so insignificant that I +could not suppose it to be the same that the Esquimaux had reported as +having sufficient water for floating the boat. It was now too late, +however, to look for any other exit, and we all betook ourselves to rest +after a hearty supper, for which the fatigues of the day gave us an +excellent appetite. Some of the men had large pieces of the skin +stripped from their backs whilst lifting the boat over the various +obstructions on the portage. + +1st August.--Finding that there was no likelihood of there being any +other outlet to the lake than the one we had seen, we took out the +cargo, and hauling our boat over a shallow part, we reloaded and soon +entered a narrow lake, the waters of which were very muddy. At half an +hour before noon we landed to have breakfast, and the latitude 67° 4' +22" N., variation of the compass 66° 38' W., were observed. The shores +of this lake, being covered with a rich pasturage and a great variety of +flowers, afforded a pleasing contrast to the country we had hitherto +travelled through. There were great numbers of marmots here, with a +well-beaten path leading from one burrow to another. After dragging the +boat over many shallows, we arrived a little after 5 P.M. at high-water +mark, in latitude 67° 13' N., longitude 87° 30' W. The tide being out, +and there not being sufficient water to float the boat, I decided on +remaining here until the flood made. + +The recent foot-tracks of two Esquimaux were seen on the sand. + +A short distance below where we stopped, the stream we had descended +empties its waters into a small river which flows from the westward. + +2nd.--As the tide did not rise so high by two feet during the night as +it had done the previous day, the boat did not float; we were, +consequently, obliged to carry our baggage a mile further down the +stream, and afterwards, with much trouble, haul our boat over numerous +shoals. We were now afloat in a salt-water lake, and on passing a small +point two Esquimaux tents came in view. Not having got breakfast, I +landed with the interpreter, and, whilst the men were cooking, went to +ascertain if there were any inhabitants. All was quiet inside, but +after calling once or twice outside the door of one of the tents, an old +woman made her appearance, apparently just out of bed, as she was very +coolly drawing on her capacious boots, whilst she surveyed her visitors +without showing the slightest symptoms of alarm, although I afterwards +learned that I was the first European she had ever seen. An old man soon +after popped out his head alongside that of his better half, who +appeared to be endowed with a flow of language which set all his efforts +to say anything at defiance. A few trifling presents put us all, in a +few minutes, on a most friendly footing. Their report of the state of +the ice in the large bay before us was far from encouraging; they said +that there was seldom sufficient water for the passage of one of their +small canoes, and present appearances led me to suppose that they were +correct. The name of the man was I-il-lak, of the woman Rei-lu-ak. The +remainder of the party, consisting of their two sons and their wives, +had gone a day's journey inland to hunt the musk-ox. From a chart drawn +by the woman, who, as is usual, (at least among the Esquimaux) was much +the more intelligent of the two, I was led to infer that there was no +opening leading into the large bay but through the Strait of the Fury +and Hecla, and Prince Regent's Inlet. + +As soon as breakfast was over, in which our new friends joined us, we +crossed the lake, which is 6 miles long by 1½ broad, and put on shore +three of the men (W. Adamson, H. Mineau, and Nibitabo) who had assisted +us across, and were now to walk back to Repulse Bay, a distance of +forty-three miles. By them I sent orders to John Folster (the man left +in charge) to make every possible preparation for wintering, and to keep +up a friendly intercourse with the natives. My crew now consisted of +George Flett, John Corrigal, Richard Turner, Edward Hutchison, Peter +Mathieson, Jacques St. Germain, and William Ouligbuck. We now passed for +two miles through a narrow channel--not more than 40 yards wide--among +pieces of ice which were carried along with great rapidity by the ebb +tide that had just commenced; this led us into the deep inlet which we +had seen on the 29th ult. This inlet I named after Donald Ross, Esq., +Chief-Factor. We found but little open water; by keeping near the rocks, +however, we made some progress northward by using our ice-poles, and +after advancing a mile or two I went upon a piece of ice and obtained +the latitude 67° 15' N. by a meridian observation of the sun in +quicksilver. About eight miles to the north of this we passed a rocky +point, which was named after Chief-Factor Hargrave, the gentleman in +charge of York Factory when the expedition was fitted out, and who +afforded every possible assistance towards its proper equipment. This +point is formed of granite and gneiss, and has a very rugged appearance, +there being neither moss nor grass on the rocks to soften their +asperities. + +At 7 A.M. on the 3rd, when a few miles past Point Hargrave, being +completely stopped by ice, we put ashore and found a large wooden +sledge, which we cut up for fuel. The wood was evidently the planks of +some vessel (probably of the Fury or Sir John Ross's steamer the +Victory) as there were holes in it bored with an auger. After working +our way a mile or two further, we arrived at a high rocky cape having +three elevations upon it lying east and west from each other. This +headland, which was honoured with the name of the lady of Sir John H. +Pelly, Bart., Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, is situated in +latitude 67° 28' N.; longitude by account 87° 40' W.; variation of the +compass 82° 36' W. + +It was low water to-day at 11 A.M., the fall of the tide being 8½ feet, +and the depth of water within a hundred yards of the beach from 3 to 5 +fathoms, on a bottom of mud or sand. + +Shortly after noon a fog came on so thick that we could only see a few +yards round us; we, however, pushed our way for 2½ miles beyond Cape +Lady Pelly, along a flat coast lined with mud banks from eight to ten +feet high, frozen solid within a foot of the surface. At 4 P.M. the ice +was too closely packed to allow us to proceed; we therefore turned +towards the shore, and after some trouble effected a landing. The fog +still continued so thick, that, after wandering about for a few miles, I +had much difficulty in finding the boat again, hid as it was by the +surrounding masses of ice. We were much at a loss for drinkable water, +there not being a drop in the neighbourhood but what resembled chocolate +in appearance. + +In the forenoon some wolves, part of a band that had serenaded us last +night with their dismal howlings, were seen prowling about; and a +white-winged silvery gull (_L. leucopterus_), a diminutive sandpiper +(_tringa minuta_), and a marmot were shot. + +4th.--There was a drizzling rain with thick fog all night, but not a +breath of wind. As the tide flowed the ice moved slowly and silently +round us, so that in the morning we had not more than a yard or two of +open water near us, being blocked in on all sides by pieces from 15 to +20 feet thick. The rise of the tide was not less than nine feet. In the +forenoon I walked upwards of five miles along the shore to the +north-westward, passing a few low sandy points about a mile and a half +from each other, which formed a succession of small bays, into each of +which a ravine with high and steep mud banks opened, down which a +streamlet of pea-soup-coloured water flowed. We fell in with the heads +and horns of several musk cattle and reindeer, and saw recent footmarks +of some of the latter, but they had probably been driven some distance +away by the wolves we saw yesterday. Marmots were numerous in every +direction, chattering to each other, and rising on their hind legs to +obtain a better view of the strangers. Many golden plovers and +different kinds of sandpipers were flying about, and a jager (_L. +parasiticus_) was shot: some plants were also collected. The travelling +along this coast was extremely fatiguing, being very often nearly +knee-deep in a very adhesive mud. + +The thermometer rose as high as 70° in the forenoon; in the afternoon it +fell to 48°; and in the evening the weather was cold and unpleasant, +with heavy rain. + +5th.--During the greater part of last night the rain continued, but it +was perfectly calm, although by the lead of the clouds we were in hopes +of a breeze of wind off shore. Our boat being in danger of injury from +some heavy masses of ice that were turning over near us, we moved a +dozen yards nearer the land. Our new situation, however, was little +better than the one we had left, for as soon as the tide began to ebb +large pieces of our "enemy" broke away and fell with a loud crash close +alongside of us. It was high-water this morning at 3 o'clock, the rise +of the tide being 11 feet 6 inches, whilst that of yesterday evening was +only 5½ feet, an irregularity resembling that which was observed by +Captain Sir J. Ross on the shores of Boothia. The temperature of the air +in the morning was 46°, but rose to 65° during the day, which was very +hazy, with occasional showers and a fresh breeze off shore; but this had +not the slightest effect upon the ice, and led me to believe that the +Esquimaux report as to the navigation being always obstructed here is +correct. + +Seeing that there was no probability of our getting along shore towards +Dease and Simpson's farthest, I determined to retrace our route, and if +possible cross over to Melville Peninsula for the purpose of surveying +its western shore, towards the Strait of the Fury and Hecla. + +In the evening, when the tide, which on the present occasion rose only +4½ feet, was in, we endeavoured to extricate ourselves; and after some +hours of hard labour in chopping off some points of ice, and pushing +aside such pieces as were not aground, we got a few hundred yards from +the beach, and into water a little more open. + +About half-past ten a young buck was observed on a piece of ice +half-a-mile to seaward, having been forced to take the water to avoid +some wolves, one or two of which were seen skulking along shore watching +for the return of the animal. The state of our larder did not permit us +to be merciful, so the poor deer had little chance of escape from his +biped and quadruped enemies when acting in concert. After a long chase +he was shot whilst swimming from one floe to another. Having pulled and +poled along shore all night, we landed for breakfast at 8 h. 30 m. A.M., +on the 6th, about three miles to the south of Point Hargrave. The +continued rain and fog had so completely saturated everything with damp +that we had not a dry stitch of clothes to put on, and our bedding and +fuel were in the same state; fortunately the weather was mild, so that +we did not feel much inconvenience from this. + +Finding that the ice was clearing away a little--the effect of a +south-east wind,--we directed our course towards the nearest point of +Melville Peninsula, which bore east (true) of us, distant ten miles, and +after threading our way among much heavy and close-packed floes, which +obliged us to make frequent and long detours, after five hours' hard +work we reached the land during a thunder-storm accompanied by torrents +of rain. + +Our landing place was a long rocky point having a deep ice-filled inlet +on its south side. To this point I gave the name of Cape Thomas Simpson, +after the late enterprising traveller of that name. + +As we could not proceed on account of the thick fog and the state of the +ice, we secured the boat to the rocks, and the men although drenched to +the skin went immediately to sleep, eighteen hours of hard work at the +oars and ice-poles having thoroughly tired them all. + +During the night of the 6th the weather was thick with occasional rain, +but about 6 in the morning of the 7th a fresh breeze from the south-east +dispersed the fog. As soon as it was cleared up we renewed our voyage, +but our progress was very slow, having our old opponent to contend with; +in four hours we gained as many miles and were again stopped. Seeing +some deer near the beach, we landed, and whilst two of us had a +fruitless chase after them the remainder of the party were busy cooking +and drying our clothes, blankets, &c. The temperature of the air was +52°, that of the water 35°. + +The breeze gradually increased as the day advanced, and went round to +the east, which drove the ice a short distance from the shore. We +embarked again between 9 and 10 A.M., and ran to the eastward for a +league or more, when the breeze having changed into a heavy gale, our +boat ran great risk of being injured by the ice, of which we found it +impossible to keep altogether clear. We therefore pulled up to a number +of grounded pieces (a line of which completely barred us from the +shore), and made fast to the largest of them. In getting this far we +were in much danger from the falling, or breaking off, of overhanging +masses (some of them 20 feet in height), which were crashing all around +us, and under which we had frequently to pass. At 5 A.M. our floe got +afloat, and began driving to leeward at a great rate. We just got the +boat clear in time to prevent its being crushed against a berg that +still remained fast. Some of the smaller pieces lying between us and the +land having now floated, we managed to clear a passage for ourselves; +yet although we had only a quarter of a mile to go, so strong was the +gale that it required the utmost exertions of six men at the oars to +reach the shore, when, having secured the boat and raised an oilcloth to +keep off the rain, which had again commenced, we had our supper of +pemmican and water, and retired to bed for the night. + +8th.--On getting up this morning I found that it had become quite calm, +and that the ice was coming in so thick and fast with the flood tide, +that we had to move from our position as fast as possible. On pushing +out to sea it soon became apparent that we could not proceed on our +course, and that there was but little open water in the direction from +whence we had come, and even that was fast filling up. As we could +neither advance nor remain in safety where we were, there was only one +course open to us, and that was to return towards the place from which +we had started. + +It was now evident that this large bay was completely full of ice; for +had this not been the case, the gale of yesterday must have cleared the +coast for many miles. It was with a sad heart that I turned the head of +our boat towards our starting point, where I purposed to await some +favourable change in the state of the ice, and at the same time learn +how the people left at Repulse Bay were getting on with preparations for +wintering, which now appeared inevitable. The weather continued so much +overcast that no observations could be obtained. In the afternoon a +light breeze sprang up from W.N.W., which enabled us to reach in a short +time Ross Inlet, where we had some trouble in finding the entrance of +the river on account of the altered appearance of the rocks, it being +now nearly low water and the shore clear of ice, compared with what it +formerly was. We had much difficulty in towing up to the Salt Lake +before mentioned, as the narrow but deep channel which led to it was, at +this state of the tide, one continued rapid, and so strong was the +force of the stream that our tracking line broke. We were soon snug in +the Salt Lake, but had not been more than half an hour under shelter +before almost every spot of open water outside was filled with ice, so +rapidly had it followed in our wake. + +When we arrived opposite the tents of our Esquimaux friends, they came +running down to the beach led on by the old lady whose fluency of speech +I have already remarked, and who appeared determined to sustain her +character on this occasion by making more noise than all the others put +together, and expressing her joy at our return by loud shouts. The old +people had during our absence been joined by the musk-ox hunters, two +fine young active-looking fellows (named Ark-shuk and I-vit-chuck) and +their wives. These women were the cleanest and best-looking I had yet +seen. They were tatooed much in the same way as those at Repulse Bay. +The hunters said they had been unsuccessful, but as each of the women +had the tail, or a portion of the shaggy hair of the neck, of a musk-ox +in her hand as a musquito flapper, their veracity was rather doubted. +There was only one child with them, a sickly-looking boy of six or seven +years, stepson to a man named Shi-shak, who arrived about an hour after +us in his kayak from an unprofitable walrus hunt. + +I learnt from our Esquimaux acquaintances that the deer had commenced +migrating southward. This being the case, I prepared to walk across to +Repulse Bay to see what progress the party left there had made in their +work. The weather had been so cloudy for the last week that no +observations of any value could be obtained. + +Leaving three men and Ouligbuck's son in charge of the boat, I started +at 6.30 A.M. on the 9th, in company with Corrigal, N. Germain, and +Matheson, to cross the isthmus, taking a S.S.E. direction; but it was +impossible to keep this course for any great distance, as we were forced +to make long circuits to avoid precipices and arms of lakes. After a +most fatiguing day's march over hill and dale, through swamp and stream, +we halted at half-past 6 P.M. close to the second portage crossed on our +outward route. To gain a distance of twenty miles we had travelled not +less than thirty. Our supper was soon finished, as it was neither +luxurious nor required much cooking, consisting of our staple +commodities pemmican "cold with water." + +10th.--The morning was raw and cold with some hoar frost, and there not +being a blanket among the party and only two coats, our sleep was +neither long, sound, nor refreshing. In fact I had carried no coat with +me except a thin Macintosh, which, being damp from the rain of +yesterday, had become an excellent conductor of caloric, and added to +the chilly feeling instead of keeping it off. + +There is one advantage in an uncomfortable bed; it induces early rising, +and it proved so in the present instance, for we had finished breakfast +and resumed our journey by half-past 2 A.M. The travelling was as +difficult as that of yesterday, but we had the advantage of a cool +morning and got on more easily. At 7 o'clock we arrived at the narrows +which separate Christie and North Pole Lakes, where we found the greater +number of the Esquimaux we had seen, encamped, waiting for deer crossing +over. Some of them immediately got into their kayaks and paddled across +to our side of the lake, but with so much caution that it was evident we +had not yet wholly gained their confidence. + +At 2 P.M. we arrived at Repulse Bay with most enviable appetites, but +rather foot-sore, our shoes and socks having been entirely worn through +long before we reached our destination. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + State of things at Repulse Bay--Determine to discontinue the + survey till the spring--Reasons--Party sent to bring over the + boat--Fix on a site for winter residence--Ptarmigan--Laughing + geese--Eider and king ducks--Visits of natives too + frequent--Return of the party sent for the boat--Report the bay + more closely packed than before--Preparations for + wintering--Fort Hope built--Proceed to North Pole and Christie + Lakes to look out for fishing stations--Purchase dogs--Wariness + of the deer--Flocks of geese pass southward--Blue-winged and + snow-geese--Their habits--Snow-storm--Its effects--Return to + Fort Hope--Daily routine--Signs of winter--Deer + numerous--Quantity of game killed--Provision-store built of + snow--Great fall of snow--Effects of the cold--Adventure with a + deer--Visited by a party of natives--Their report of the ice + westward of Melville Peninsula--An island said to be + wooded--Produce of the chase in October--Temperature--Two + observatories built of snow--Band of wolves--A party caught in a + snow-storm--Esquimaux theory of the heavenly bodies--Temperature + of November--Diminished supply of provisions. + +On our arrival at Repulse Bay we found the men all well, but getting no +more fish and venison than was barely sufficient to support them. Having +taken but a scanty breakfast, I fully enjoyed my dinner here, but I +reversed the usual order of eating the same, taking my venison steak +first (it being soonest cooked), and salmon as second course. + +This was to me the most anxious period during the expedition; nor will +this appear strange when I mention that it was necessary to decide, and +that promptly, on one of two modes of proceeding, namely, whether to +leave the whole survey to be completed during the following spring and +summer, or to endeavour to follow it up this autumn. After mature +consideration I determined on adopting the first of these measures, and +giving up all hopes of prosecuting the survey at present. + +My reasons for arriving at this conclusion I shall briefly mention, as +such a step may appear rather premature. I saw from the state of the ice +and the prevalence of northerly winds that there was no probability of +completing the whole of the proposed survey this season; and although +part of the coast, either towards the Strait of Fury and Hecla, or +towards Dease and Simpson's farthest, might be traced, yet to accomplish +even this might detain us so long that there would be no time to make +the necessary preparations for wintering, and we should thus be under +the necessity of returning to Churchill without accomplishing the object +of the expedition, or, if we remained at Repulse Bay, run the risk of +starving, for I could obtain no promise of supplies from the natives, +and all the provisions we had carried with us would not go far to +support the party throughout the winter. We should thus have to depend +almost, if not altogether, upon our own exertions for the means of +existence both in regard to food and fuel. + +It ought to be borne in mind that we were differently situated from any +party that had hitherto gone to these cold and barren regions. The +resources of the country were quite unknown to us; it was not likely +that the deer would remain near at hand all winter, as we were at too +great a distance from the woods; and it was very evident, for the same +reason, that we should not be able to procure any sort of fuel after the +first fall of snow, which there was little doubt would occur some time +in September. + +Before reaching the Arctic Sea to the west of Melville Peninsula, I was +for various reasons inclined to agree with the opinion of Sir John Ross, +"that Boothia was part of the continent of America." This opinion was +strengthened when I observed the great rise and fall of the tide, which +must have affected the tides at the Castor and Pollux River, had there +been a strait of any width separating Boothia from the mainland, unless +indeed the assumption of Captain Sir J. Ross, that "the sea to the west +of Boothia stands at a higher level than that on the east side," be +correct. In that case there would be a continual easterly current, which +could scarcely fail to have been noticed by so acute an observer as +Simpson. + +Retaining one man with myself to guard our stores and attend the nets, +on the 11th I sent over the remaining six to assist in bringing over the +boat. Ouligbuck had now been about two days looking for deer, and I +began to feel anxious about him, when he made his appearance between 9 +and 10 A.M. with the venison of a young deer on his back. + +As soon as my companion had returned from the nets, out of which he got +no fish, I took a walk for the purpose of looking out for fishing +stations and a site for our winter house. For the latter I could find no +better place than a narrow but not deep valley within a few hundred +yards of our landing-place, and about a hundred and fifty from North +Pole River on its east side. There appeared to be various small bays +along shore to the eastward which were likely to produce fish. A flock +of laughing geese (_anser albifrons_) flew past quite close to me; but +having only my rifle, I could but send a ball after them and missed as +was to be expected. + +In a small pond an eider-duck was observed with her young brood +apparently not more than twelve days old. The male eider and king ducks +had already left this quarter, having migrated to the southward. + +12th.--A cloudy day with a strong breeze from N.N.W. Two salmon and a +trout were got from the nets, but Ouligbuck killed no deer. In the +evening, when on my way to set a net in a lake at no great distance, I +fell in with a covey of ptarmigan, (_T. rupestris_), most of the young +being strong on the wing, and bagged eighteen brace in an hour or two. +Knocking down those birds on this day made me half fancy myself among +the grouse in my own barren native hills. + +On the 13th the weather was raw and cold with frequent showers, and a +gale of wind from the same quarter as the day before. Four salmon were +caught, and a deer was shot. The thermometer varied from 36° to 38°. +Four Esquimaux men and two women visited us to-day. + +The 14th was much like the 13th, but there was no rain. As the visits of +the natives had now become rather frequent, and as they brought nothing +with them, but appeared to expect both food and presents, I bade +Ouligbuck say that we could not afford to feed them any longer, and that +they had better return to their huts, where I knew they were killing +deer enough to support themselves. On returning from my daily walk, I +found that our friends had taken leave rather hurriedly, having been +detected appropriating some salt fish, which they could not eat. For +this they were sharply reprimanded by the interpreter, and one of the +ladies was most ungallantly accused by her husband of being the +offender. Corrigal and I hauled the seine in the evening and caught +thirty-three salmon; fourteen more were got out of the nets. + +15th.--This was a beautiful day throughout. In the evening, the sky +being clear and cloudless, some stars were visible, and a few streaks of +orange-coloured aurora showed themselves to the southward. The seine was +again hauled, and thirty-two salmon (some of them very small) caught, +whilst the nets produced eleven more. Just as we were landing our fish, +the men who had been taking over the boat made their appearance, being a +day earlier than I expected. By keeping the proper route three of the +portages were avoided, and they had the advantage of a fine fair breeze +all through the lakes. The large bay (Akkoolee) was reported as being +more closely packed with ice than before. This was nothing but what I +should have expected after the late north-westerly winds. + +The two Esquimaux, Arkshuk and Ivitchuk, ("Anglice" Aurora and Walrus,) +who had been engaged to aid in dragging the boat over the portages, had +wrought well, and readily accommodated themselves to the habits of the +men. They were well recompensed; and Ivitchuk (a merry little fellow) +was engaged to accompany me on my intended spring journeys. + +The boat was for the present left at North Pole Lake, as it might still +be required there. + +The 16th was a day of rest, and the 17th was so stormy and wet that +little work could be done. + +All hands were now busily employed making preparations for a long and +dreary winter; for this purpose four men were set to work to collect +stones for building a house, whilst the others were occupied in setting +nets, hunting deer, and gathering fuel. Our work was much impeded by +rainy weather, particularly the house building, as the clay or mud was +washed away as soon as applied. + +We found that our nets were so much cut up by a small marine insect from +a half to three-quarters of an inch long, resembling a shrimp in +miniature--the favourite food of the salmon--that it was quite +impossible to keep them in repair. I thought to destroy their taste for +hemp by steeping the nets in a strong decoction of tobacco, but it had +no effect. + +On the 2nd September our house was finished; its internal dimensions +were 20 feet long by 14 feet broad, height in front 7½ feet, sloping to +5½ at the back. We formed a very good roof by using the oars and masts +of our boats as rafters, and covering them with oilcloth and moose skin, +the latter being fixed to the lower or inside of the rafters, whilst the +former was placed on the outside to run off the rain. The door was made +of parchment deer-skins stretched over a frame of wood. The walls were +fully two feet thick, with three small openings, in which a like number +of windows, each having two panes of glass, were placed. + +Our establishment was dignified with the name of Fort Hope, and was +situated in 66° 32' 16" N.; longitude (by a number of sets of lunar +distances with objects on both sides of the moon) 86° 55' 51" W. The +variation of the compass on 30th August was 62° 50' 30" W.; mean dip of +the needle, and the mean twice of a hundred vertical vibrations in the +line of declination 226". + +A sort of room was formed at one end by putting up a partition of +oilcloth. In this, besides its serving as my quarters, all our pemmican +and some of the other stores were stowed away. + +From the 5th to the 13th I was up at North Pole and Christie Lakes in +the boat with three men, our object being to look out for fishing +stations, and also to purchase dogs from the Esquimaux. The wind being +from the north, we did not reach the Esquimaux encampment till the 10th. +They had shifted their tents from the narrows to a small point about +eight miles up Christie Lake, where the deer were more numerous, among +which they seemed to have made great havoc, to judge by the abundance of +skins and venison lying in all directions. Our friends were delighted to +see us, and had improved much in appearance, the only poor animals about +them being their dogs, which appeared to get no more to eat than was +barely sufficient to keep them in life. I looked out four of the best, +being all I wanted at present, for which I promised a dagger each, +intending to take them with us on our return. During our stay here a +band of deer came to the edge of the lake, and after feeding a short +time took the water. Three of the natives slipped noiselessly into their +kayaks, and lay waiting, until the deer were far enough out in the +water, to intercept them, but just as they were on the eve of starting +the wind changed a little, and the deer smelling their enemy wheeled +about, and were soon in safety on the beach from which they had started. + +Many large flocks of Hutchins and snow geese had been seen for the last +few days passing to the southward. The blue-winged goose of Edwards is +by some ornithologists considered as the young of the last named bird in +one of its stages towards maturity, but this opinion I believe to be +erroneous, for the following reasons. + +During a ten years' residence at Moose Factory, on the shores of +Hudson's Bay, I had many opportunities, every spring and autumn, of +observing both the snow and the blue-winged goose in their passage to +and from their breeding places, the marshes near Moose being favourite +feeding ground. + +In spring both species are very nearly alike in size, the blue-winged +goose, although shorter, being rather the heavier bird. In the autumn +there are four distinct varieties, two of which exactly resemble in size +and plumage those seen in the spring, whilst the others are much +smaller, and differ much from these and from each other in their +markings; the young of the snow goose being of a light grey colour, +darkest on the head and upper part of the neck; whilst the young of the +blue-winged goose is of a dark slate colour, approaching to black on the +head and neck. Neither do the young separate from the old, as has been +asserted; for families may be seen feeding by themselves all over the +marshes, the old bird keeping a sharp look-out, and giving timely +warning to her brood of any approaching danger. In fact the Indian, who +has thoroughly studied the habits of the bird, takes advantage of her +affection for her young, and of their attachment to their parent, to +make both his prey. Well knowing that the young are easily decoyed by +imitating their call and by mock geese set up in the marsh, and that the +old bird, although more shy, will follow them, he waits patiently until +she comes within range; if he shoots her he is pretty sure to kill the +greater part of the others, as they continue to fly over and around the +place for some time after. + +During the night of the 10th, when near the north end of the lake, we +experienced one of the severest snow storms I ever witnessed. As we were +sleeping on shore we never thought of putting up any sort of shelter; +the consequence was that in the morning we were covered with snow to the +depth of a foot. Our boat, which had been hauled up on the beach, was +blown away from her fastenings, and carried several hundred yards into +the lake among some stones. Being the only one of the party provided on +the spot with Macintosh boots, it fell to my lot to wade out to the +boat, throw overboard the ballast, lift her bows over the stones, and +take a line to the shore; which, from having miscalculated the depth of +the water, I found a more disagreeable task than I had expected. +Fortunately the boat sustained no injury. It was now about 6 o'clock in +the morning of the 11th, and as the storm continued unabated we made a +sort of tent of our sails. In doing this the men got so wet and cold, +from the snow thawing on them, that they could not even light their +pipes. + +In the afternoon the weather improved, and we were able to scrape a +little fuel together, with which we cooked some salmon and boiled a +kettle of tea, which made us feel quite comfortable again. We thus +combined breakfast, dinner, and supper in one meal. + +The hares had already acquired their winter coat, and the golden plovers +and sandpipers had all disappeared, but some Lapland and snow-buntings +and the shore-lark were still to be seen. + +A little after noon on the 13th the wind shifted to the S.W., and we got +under weigh to return home. A couple of hours brought us to the +Esquimaux, where we stopped to take on board our dogs. A young lad also +came with us to carry some medicine for the patriarch of the tribe, who +was labouring under various complaints peculiar to old age. We arrived +at North Pole River at 6 P.M., having had a beautiful run all the way. + +As we were not likely to require the boat on the lakes again this +season, she was hauled up and placed in security for the winter. While +at the lake we had not been able to procure much more food than was +necessary for our own use, but this may in part have been attributable +to the bad weather. + +The storm of the 10th had been much felt at our house, and so great was +its force that the boat left there was lifted a few yards by it, but +received no injury. Much heavy ice was driven into the bay and lay +heaped up all along the shore. + +Our house was still far from comfortable, the clay being quite wet and +producing a most unpleasant feeling of dampness,--far more disagreeable +than a much lower temperature with dry weather. + +Our time was now continually occupied in collecting fuel, (portions of +which, as soon as it became dry, were built up into small heaps on the +rocks near the house,) in fishing, and in shooting deer and partridges. + +The routine of our day's work was as follows: in the morning we were up +before day-light; the men got their orders for the several duties they +had to perform, which were principally carried on out of doors, and at +which they set to work immediately after rolling up their bedding and +taking breakfast. This meal usually consisted of boiled venison, the +water with which it was cooked being converted into a very excellent +soup by the addition of some deer's blood, and a handful or two of +flour. + +Our dinner, or rather supper, consisted of the same materials as our +breakfast, and was taken about 4 or 5 o'clock; after that, my time was +employed in writing my journal or making calculations; whilst the men +were busy improving themselves in reading, arithmetic, &c., in which I +assisted them as much as my time would permit. Divine service was read +every Sunday when practicable. + +On the 20th the pools of water were covered with ice sufficiently strong +to be walked upon, and on the 28th some hooks were set under the ice on +the lakes for trout. During the latter part of the month deer were very +numerous. As many as seventeen were shot on the 28th, and on the +following day ten more were got, seven of which were killed by myself +within a few miles of the house. On the 29th a considerable portion of +the bay was frozen over, and the seals were seen popping up their heads +every now and then through the ice to keep breathing places open. + +The weather during this month having been very changeable and stormy, +and unfavourable for observations of all kinds, the sextant had +frequently been exchanged for the rifle--a not unwelcome exchange to one +addicted to field-sports "from his youth upwards." + +Our sporting book for the month showed that we had been doing something +towards laying in a stock of provisions for winter; 63 deer, 5 hares, +one seal, 172 partridges, and 116 salmon and trout, had been brought in. + +October.--During the first part of this month some of the men were +employed in building a store of snow for our provisions, and covering it +with two of the sails. On the 12th and three following days there was +one continued storm which drifted the snow all round the house as high +as the roof, and on the night of the 15th would have choked all our dogs +that were chained outside, had not Adamson and another got up and cut +their fastenings. On the 16th, when it cleared up, the thermometer first +fell to zero. + +The cold had now penetrated in-doors and frozen the clay on the walls, +which made us much more comfortable. On attempting to open some books +that had been lying on a shelf, I was surprised to find that the leaves +were all frozen together; when I mention this, and also that our powder +horns and every other article that was bound with brass or silver burst +their fastenings, some idea may be formed of the dampness of our house +whilst the clay on the walls was wet. + +On the 19th, when out shooting, having killed one deer, I went in +pursuit of another (a large buck) that had been wounded, and put four +balls through him. Thinking that the last ball had settled the business, +(for he had fallen,) I went carelessly up to him without re-loading my +rifle, and when within a few yards I believe I apostrophized the animal +much in the following strain--"Ah! poor fellow, you are done for at +last!" when the deer, as if he had understood what I said, and thought I +was adding insult to injury, sprung to his legs in a moment, and at a +couple of bounds his horns were within a foot of me. Circumstanced as I +was, I thought with Falstaff "that discretion was the better part of +valour", and beat a hasty retreat, laughing heartily all the time at the +strange figure we must have made. Taking the deer by the horns could +have been of no use, and might have cost me some troublesome bruises and +scratches. + +Twelve Esquimaux and a boy visited us on the 23rd; among whom was the +man (named Shi-ma-kuk) to whom the sledge belonged, part of which we had +used for fuel when near Cape Lady Pelly with the boat. He was now +rewarded, and apparently so much to his satisfaction that he would have +had no objections to have another sledge burnt on the same terms. They +reported that the bay, to the west of Melville Peninsula, had been +packed full of ice ever since we were over there, until a few days +before they came away, when there was some open water to be seen. +Besides purchasing five dozen rein-deer tongues, a seal-skin full of +oil, and some other articles, we added two good dogs to our team. + +Among other information they told me that there was an island in +Akkoolee (the large bay west of Melville Peninsula,) named Sha-took, +(which means low or flat,) on which large trees grew; but they +acknowledged that none of them had ever been on the island, although +they had been near enough to see the trees distinctly. In this I believe +their imaginations had deceived them, aided perhaps in some degree by a +peculiar state of the atmosphere, during which the appearance of the +land has been so distorted that it has been mistaken for woods. Some +round sticks, probably spars belonging to one of the two vessels left in +Prince Regent's Inlet, having been picked up along the west shore of +Melville Peninsula, had no doubt strengthened the opinion they had +formed. Two of their party whom we had never seen, were drowned in Miles +Lake by falling through the ice; the one in chasing a deer, and the +other, it is supposed, in attempting to save his companion. + +Our visitors left us on the 25th, promising to return soon with some +deer-skin dresses. During the whole of the month we were occupied much +the same way as in the previous one. Deer were numerous during the first +part of it, but scarce latterly; sixty-nine were shot, but the produce +of our nets had fallen very low, eighteen salmon and four trout being +all we caught. The highest temperature of the month was 38°, whilst the +lowest was 15°. Although there was a great deal of very stormy weather, +there were some clear calm nights, of which I took advantage to obtain +lunar distances. + +Two observatories had been built of snow, with a pillar of ice in each +(at the suggestion of Captain Lefroy, R.A.), the one for the dip circle, +the other for an horizontally suspended needle to try the effects of the +aurora upon it. + +So much snow had fallen that it lay four feet deep on the roof of our +meat store, and was near breaking the masts which supported it; so that +we were obliged to raise its walls about a fathom to prevent such an +occurrence in future. + +On the 4th November, when out looking for deer a little before day-light +in the morning, I observed a band of animals coming over a rising ground +at a quick pace directly towards me. I at first supposed them to be +deer, but on a nearer approach they proved to be wolves, seventeen in +number. They continued to advance at full speed until within forty +yards, when they formed a sort of half circle to leeward. Hoping to send +a ball through one of them, I knelt down and took what I thought a sure +aim at a large fellow that was nearest; unfortunately it was not yet +broad day-light, and the rascals all kept end on to me, so that the ball +merely cut off a line of hair and a piece of skin from his side. They +apparently did not expect to meet with such a reception, for after +looking at me a second or two they trotted off, no doubt as much +disappointed at not making a breakfast of me as I was at missing my aim. +Had they come to close quarters (which they sometimes do when pressed +hard for food) I had a large and strong knife which would have proved a +very efficient weapon. On my way home I shot three hares. + +On the 5th two partridges were shot which very much resembled the tetrao +saliceti, but which I suppose to be the T. mutus. The parasitæ found on +them differed from those usually found on the willow grouse. + +We began during this month to find that we could not afford fuel to dry +our clothes; I therefore adopted the plan that a celebrated miser took +to warm his food, by taking them under the blankets with me at night, +and drying them by the heat of the body. This, it may be supposed, was +not very agreeable, particularly when the weather became colder, for the +moisture froze during the day on the blankets, which sparkled with hoar +frost when I went to bed. + +In the afternoon of the 9th we had one of the most severe snow storms +that had yet been experienced, and I was much alarmed at the non-arrival +of four men who had gone in the morning to examine some nets and set +others in North Pole Lake eight miles from the house. Guns were fired to +attract the attention of the party, who made their appearance at +half-past 8 P.M., when we had given up all hopes of seeing them until +the following day. They had been upwards of eight hours in coming as +many miles, and were like walking pillars of snow when they came in. The +four dogs they had with them were still missing, having run off with the +sled as soon as they smelt the house. On the following day they were +found entangled with one another, and the sled stuck fast against some +rocks. One or two of the dogs were completely covered up with snow, but +all safe. + +About 2 P.M. on the 25th, two Esquimaux men and a boy, named Arkshuk +(Aurora Borealis), Took-oo-lak (the falling stick), and Che-mik-tee +(snuff), came to see us with deer-skin clothes, &c. for barter. + +I had a good deal of conversation through the interpreters with Arkshuk, +whom I found rather intelligent and communicative. It appears that the +favourite food of these Esquimaux is musk-ox flesh; venison ranks next, +and bear and walrus are preferred to seal and fish. Their theory +regarding the sun and moon is rather peculiar. It is said that many +years ago, not long after the creation of the world, there was a mighty +conjuror (Esquimaux of course), who gained so much power that at last he +raised himself up into the heavens, taking with him his sister (a +beautiful girl) and a fire. To the latter he added great quantities of +fuel, which thus formed the sun. For some time he and his sister lived +in great harmony, but at last they disagreed, and he, in addition to +maltreating the lady in many ways, at last scorched one side of her +face. She had suffered patiently all sorts of indignities, but the +spoiling of her beauty was not to be borne; she therefore ran away from +him and formed the moon, and continues so until this day. Her brother is +still in chase of her, but although he sometimes gets near, he will +never overtake her. When it is new moon, the burnt side of the face is +towards us; when full moon, the reverse is the case. + +The stars are supposed to be the spirits of the dead Esquimaux that have +fixed themselves in the heavens, and falling stars, or meteors, and the +aurora borealis, are those spirits moving from one place to another +whilst visiting their friends. + +The highest, lowest, and mean temperature of November were respectively ++28°, -25°, and +0.68. Only twelve deer, nine hares, and a few +partridges had been shot, whilst our nets produced about sixty fish, the +greater part of which were small. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + Winter arrangements completed--Learn to build snow + houses--Christmas-day--North Pole River frozen to the + bottom--1st January--Cheerfulness of the men--Furious + snow-storm--Observatories blown down--Boat buried under the + snow--Ouligbuck caught in the storm--Dog attacked by a + wolf--Party of natives take up their residence near Fort + Hope--Esquimaux mentioned by Sir John Ross known to them--Boat + dug out of the snow--A runaway wife--Deer begin to migrate + northward--A wolf-chase--First deer of the season + shot--Difficulty of deer-hunting in spring--Dimensions of an + Esquimaux canoe--Serious accident to Ouligbuck--A + conjuror--Preparations for the journey + northward--Temperature--Aurora Borealis. + +During December we completed our various buildings, and formed passages +under the snow, so that we could without exposure go to any of them. +There were four houses, viz.: one for provisions, another for fuel, a +third for oil, dog's meat, &c., and a fourth for the men's spare +luggage, for which there was no room in the dwelling-house, and which +had been stowed in the tents until it was found necessary to take them +down. + +Being desirous of requiring as little assistance from the Esquimaux as +possible, I attempted to build a snow house after the native fashion, +and succeeded tolerably well; finding that the process was not so +difficult as I anticipated, after a few trials one or two of the men +became very good masons. We had now no encouragement to move much about, +as there was no game to be seen, and the weather was very unsettled, and +consequently no more exercise was taken than was necessary to keep us in +good health. In stormy weather, not being able to get out of doors, the +men wrestled or played some game which called the muscles into action, +and thus kept up the animal heat. + +On the 21st, the sun's lower limb rose about double his diameter above a +rising ground to the southward, on a level with Fort Hope. On the 23rd +and 24th, whilst looking out some good venison for our Christmas dinner, +we examined our stock of such provisions, and found that we had not +enough to last us until the return of the deer in spring; fortunately we +had still a good supply of pemmican left. + +Christmas-day was passed very agreeably, but the weather was so stormy +and cold that only a very short game at foot-ball could be played. Short +as it was, however, it was sufficiently amusing, for our faces were +every moment getting frost-bitten either in one place or another, so as +to require the continual application of the hand; and the rubbing, +running about, and kicking the ball all at the same time, produced a +very ludicrous effect. + +Our dinner was composed of excellent venison and a plum-pudding, with a +moderate allowance of brandy punch to drink a health to absent friends. + +For some time past, washing the face had been rather an unpleasant +operation, as any water that got among the hair froze upon it +immediately. This is mentioned by Sir George Back as having occurred +once to him at Fort Reliance, in 1833. On the 28th, North Pole River got +frozen to the bottom, so that we were forced to go to a lake to the S.W. +of Beacon Hill, about half a mile distant, for water. + +The 1st of January was as beautiful a day as we could have wished to +begin the new year with. There was a light air of wind, and the +temperature varied from -23° to -26°. After a most excellent breakfast +of fat venison steaks, all the party were occupied for some hours with a +spirited game at foot-ball, at which there was much fun, the snow being +so hard and slippery that several pairs of heels might be seen in the +air at the same time. + +My dinner consisted of part of a hare and rein-deer tongue, with a +currant pudding as second course. The men's mess was much like my own, +except that they had venison instead of hare. A small supply of brandy +was served out, and on the whole I do not believe that a more happy +company could have been found in America, large as it is. 'Tis true +that an agreeable companion to join me in a glass of punch, to drink a +health to absent friends, to speak of by-gone times and speculate on the +future, might have made the evening pass more pleasantly, yet I was far +from unhappy. To hear the merry joke, the hearty laugh, and lively song +among my men, was of itself a source of much pleasure. + +On the 7th the tracks of a few deer were unexpectedly seen within a few +miles of the house; and on the following day the thermometer showed a +temperature of -47°, the lowest we experienced during the winter. + +The 9th was a more disagreeable day than any we had yet had. A storm +from the north with thick snow-drift, and a temperature of 72° below the +freezing point, made it feel bitterly cold. Fortunately we had some days +before made a house for our dogs, else they must have inevitably been +frozen to death. Such was the force of the gale for two days that both +observatories were completely demolished, and wherever the snow banks +projected in the slightest degree above the surrounding level, they were +worn away by the friction of the snow-drift as if cut with a knife. + +The thermometer indoors varied from 29° to 40° below the freezing point; +which would not have been unpleasant where there was a fire to warm the +hands and feet, or even room to move about; but where there was neither +the one nor the other, some few degrees more heat would have been +preferable. + +As we could not go for water we were forced to thaw snow, and take only +one meal each day. My waistcoat after a week's wearing became so stiff +from the condensation and freezing of my breath upon it, that I had much +trouble to get it buttoned. + +The gale did not subside until the 15th, when we were busily employed +repairing the damages done by the wind and drift. As a great weight of +snow had lodged upon our boat, we were afraid she might be injured by +the pressure, and some of the men were employed to search for her, but +there was some difference of opinion about her exact situation, and it +was two days before she was found, after digging to the depth of eight +feet. + +A stick was set up at one end of the boat that there might be no +difficulty in finding the place again. + +One cause of discomfort to me was the great quantity of tobacco smoke in +our low and confined house, it being sometimes so thick that no object +could be seen at a couple of yards' distance. The whole party, with the +exception of myself, were most inveterate smokers; indeed it was +impossible to be awake for ten minutes during the night without hearing +the sound of the flint and steel striking a light. Of course I might to +a great extent have put a stop to this, but the poor fellows appeared to +receive so much comfort from the use of the pipe, that it would have +been cruelty to do so for the sake of saving myself a trifling +inconvenience. + +This month was so stormy that the most of our time when we could get +out of doors was passed in clearing away the snow that drifted about our +doors and over the house, and in rebuilding and repairing. The boat, and +also the stick that had been set up as a mark, were completely covered +over. On the 18th Ouligbuck had gone out to hunt, and did not return +till the 25th, after I had given up all hopes of ever seeing him again +in life. It appeared that he had visited the Esquimaux at Christie Lake +for the purpose of speaking to them about not having kept their promise +regarding some oil that they said they would bring to us, and which they +had omitted to do. He had been caught by the storm of the 18th before he +reached his friends, and was obliged to build a snow hut, in which he +passed the night comfortably enough. On the following morning, when it +cleared up a little, he found that he was not more than two hundred +yards from his destination, which the thickness of the weather on the +previous day had prevented him from seeing. + +One of the dogs we had lent this party to aid in drawing some provisions +to the coast had a narrow escape from a wolf. Having broken loose she +set out on her return home, when she was attacked by the wolf, and +treated much in the same way that Tam O'Shanter's mare was by Cutty +Sark, for + + "The wolf had caught her by the rump, + And left poor Surie scarce a stump." + +On the last day of January some Esquimaux, who were to take up their +quarters near us, arrived with part of their luggage and provisions, and +built their snow house near the south side of Beacon Hill. This would +have been the best situation for our establishment, as it was completely +sheltered from the northerly gales, but we were too late in making the +discovery. + +I visited the Esquimaux on the 1st February, and found the old man, +named Shishak, and his wife in their comfortable house, which was so +warm that my waistcoat, which had been frozen quite stiff for some time +past, actually thawed. It was not easy to learn any of the peculiarities +of these people, as Ouligbuck was rather shy about describing their +habits. Ouligbuck's son informed me that even in winter they strip off +all their clothes before going to bed. + +When taking a walk on the 3rd I passed near the Esquimaux, and found one +of them repairing the runners of his sledge. The substance used was a +mixture of moss chopped up fine, and snow soaked in water, lumps of +which are firmly pressed on the sledge with the bare hand, and smoothed +over so as to have an even surface. The process occupied the man nearly +an hour, during the whole of which time he did not put his hands in his +mitts, nor did he appear to feel the cold much, although the temperature +was 30° below zero. + +On the 4th Ouligbuck set his gun for a wolf that had been prowling about +for the last few days. The usual mode is to fix the gun to two sticks +with its muzzle pointed to a bait placed at the distance of fifteen or +twenty yards, with a line attached to it, the other end of which is +fastened to the trigger; but Ouligbuck's plan was quite different from +this. He enclosed the gun in a small snow house, in such a manner that +there was nothing visible but the bait, which was not more than a foot +from the muzzle, so that the shot could scarcely miss the head of the +animal. When Ouligbuck went to his gun next morning, he saw the track of +the wolf, and followed it to the dog-kennel, in which he had comfortably +taken up his quarters; he immediately took the brute by the tail and +dragged him outside much against his will, when he was soon dispatched +with an ice-chisel. This animal was very large, but in the last stage of +starvation, with a severe arrow or gun-shot wound in one thigh. He +measured 5 feet 9 inches from the nose to the tip of the tail, (length +of tail 1 foot 7 inches,) and his height at the shoulder was 2 feet 8 +inches. + +On the 7th a man named Ak-kee-ou-lik, who had promised us four +seal-skins of oil, arrived and said that he could only let us have one, +because the bears had broken into his "cache" and devoured nearly all +its contents. This story I did not believe at the time, and I afterwards +found out that it was false. I felt a good deal annoyed at the man's not +keeping his promise, because we had depended much upon this supply for +fuel and light. To save the former, we had during part of last month +taken only one meal a-day, and discontinued the comfort of a cup of tea +with our evening repast. Of oil, our stock was so small, that we had +been forced to keep early and late hours, namely, lying occasionally +fourteen hours in bed, as we found that to sit up in a house in which +the temperature was some degrees below zero, without either light or +fire, was not very pleasant. Fortunately we all enjoyed excellent +health, and our few discomforts, instead of causing discontent, +furnished us with subjects of merriment. For instance, Hutchison about +this time had his knee frozen in bed, and I believe the poor fellow (who +by-the-bye was the softest of the party) was afterwards very sorry for +letting it be known, as he got so heartily laughed at for his +effeminacy. + +On the 9th, one of the Esquimaux women (wife of Keiktoo-oo) that came to +see us, had a brass wheel 1-1/3 or 2 inches in diameter fastened on her +dress as an ornament. It was evidently part of some instrument, probably +of some of those left by Sir John Ross at Victoria Harbour. I wished to +purchase it, but she would not part with it. + +15th.--Akkeeoulik brought over a large and heavy hoop of iron, which had +been at one time round the rudder head, bowsprit end, or mast head of a +vessel, as he said it had been taken off a large stick. I did not buy it +from him, as he was in disgrace for having disappointed me about the +oil. About 1 P.M. on the same day a number of the natives paid us a +visit, among whom were Ec-vu-chi, I-vit-chuk, and Ou-too-ouniak, three +of the most decent and best behaved of the party. They brought us a +quantity of venison, of which they had still a large stock, and some of +which they were now willing to dispose of, as they found that they had +more than was requisite for their own consumption. + +They had frequently seen Ooblooria, Ikmallik, and some of the other +Esquimaux mentioned by Sir John Ross, and I also further learnt that the +man with the wooden leg, named Tulluahiu, was dead, but how long since I +could not discover. + +The greater part of the men had been employed for the last fourteen days +digging away the snow from the boat to relieve her from the pressure, as +she was covered up to the depth of more than twelve feet. This was no +easy task; however, we managed it in the following manner. Having cut a +narrow opening through the snow down to the boat, we erected a tackle +over it and hoisted up the loose snow, as it was removed with spades and +axes. After excavating a space the full length of the boat, and clearing +the snow out of it, the bow and stern were alternately raised, and the +blocks of snow which were chopped from the top pushed underneath to +prevent its sinking down again. In this way the men could work without +exposure, and when the weather was stormy the hole was covered with a +sail, so that the snow-drift could not interfere with our labours. We +had yesterday got her close to the top of the snow roof, and to-day the +weather being fine she was hauled out and found to be uninjured, except +a small split in one of her thwarts caused by the great weight. She was +now placed in a situation where there was no danger of her being again +drifted over. + +The Esquimaux left us on the 17th, having behaved themselves in the most +exemplary manner. One of Akkeeoulik's wives (quite a young dame with a +most interesting squint) took this opportunity of leaving her husband +and putting herself under the care of her father Outoo-ouniak, the +alleged cause of her dissatisfaction being that she did not get enough +to eat. The disconsolate man followed the party for some distance in +hopes of persuading the runaway to return, but without success. + +Our fuel getting rather scarce, some of the men were sent to dig among +the snow for moss and heather, and they usually got as much in a day as +would cook one meal, but as the spring advanced, and the snow began to +disappear, two men could procure as much as we required. When the men +were taking a walk after divine service on the 21st, they saw the traces +of five deer going northward. + +On the 22nd Turner commenced making two sledges for our spring journeys. +They were to be from 6 to 7 feet long, 17 inches broad, and 7 inches +high. The only wood we had for this purpose was the battens with which +the inside of our boats was lined, it being necessary to nail three of +them together to form runners of the required height. A wolf was shot by +Ouligbuck during the night within 10 yards of the door of the house, and +six or eight more were seen at no great distance off in the morning. + +23rd. When taking my usual exercise, I came upon a white owl feasting on +a hare which it had killed after a severe struggle, to judge by the +marks on the snow. Half of it was already eaten. Another wolf was shot +on the 25th at a set gun, but there was nothing of him to be found in +the morning except a little hair and blood, all the rest having been +eaten or carried off by his companions. Some more deer tracks were seen +going northward. On the 26th the height of Beacon Hill was found to be +238 feet above the level of the sea at half-flood. + +Next day Nibitabo saw thirty deer and ten partridges, but only shot two +of the latter. The former were in the middle of a large plain, and took +good care to keep out of gun-shot, much to the annoyance of our +deer-hunter, who is one of the keenest sportsmen I have ever met with. + +There were two wolves wounded by Ouligbuck's gun last night, one of +which he caught before breakfast. I went with him after the other in the +forenoon, and got sight of him about three miles from the house. +Although his shoulder was fractured, he gave us a long race before we +ran him down, but at last we saw that he had begun to eat snow, a sure +sign that he was getting fagged. When I came up with him, so tired was +he that I was obliged to drive him on with the butt of my gun in order +to get him nearer home before knocking him on the head. At last we were +unable to make him move on by any means we could employ. Ferocity and +cowardice, often if not always, go together. How different was the +behaviour of this savage brute from that of the usually timid deer under +similar circumstances. The wolf crouched down and would not even look at +us, pull him about and use him as we might; whereas I never saw a deer +that did not attempt to defend itself when brought to bay, however +severely wounded it might be. + +On the 1st March one of our sledges that had been finished was tried, +and found to answer well. + +The deer were now steadily migrating northward, some being seen every +day, but there were none killed until the 11th, when one was shot by +Nibitabo; it proved to be a doe with young, the foetus being about the +size of a rabbit. The sun had so much power that my blankets by being +exposed to the air got completely dried, being the first time that they +had been free from ice for three months. + +Shortly after divine service on the 14th, Akkeeoulik, who had gone some +days before to his father-in-law's to endeavour to reclaim his better +half, returned with his lost treasure, one of the most lazy and dirty of +the whole party, and a most arrant thief to boot. Two deer were shot on +the 15th, and two more on the 18th. Deer-hunting had become very +different from what it was in the autumn. + +The greater part of the hollows which favoured our approach in the +latter season were now filled up with snow, which, from wasting away +underneath, made so much noise under foot that in calm weather it was +almost impossible to get within shot. The deer were besides continually +moving about in the most zig-zag directions, and were so much startled +at the report of a gun that it was evident they had been a good deal +hunted during the winter. + +On the 20th Nibitabo was affected with inflammation of the eyes, which +was relieved by dropping laudanum into them. On the 26th we made a new +water hole on the lake, when the ice was found to be 6 feet 10 inches +thick. I measured the dimensions of an Esquimaux canoe, and found them +as follows:--length 21 feet, breadth amidships 19 inches, and depth +where the person sits 9½ inches. The timbers are one-half or +five-eighths of an inch square, and placed three inches apart near the +centre of the canoe, but gradually increased to five inches at each end. +The cross-bars are three-quarters of an inch thick and a foot from each +other; these were morticed into gunwales 2½ inches broad by half-an-inch +thick, the whole being covered with seal skin in the usual manner. +Altogether it was much more neatly finished and lighter than any I had +seen in Hudson's Straits; but the natives here have not attained the +same dexterity in managing them, as they cannot turn their canoes +without assistance after being capsized. + +On the 31st Ouligbuck, who had been absent all night, came home at 1 +P.M. very faint from the effects of a severe wound he had received on +the arm by falling on a large dagger which he usually carried. On +cutting off his clothes I found that the dagger had passed completely +through the right arm a couple of inches above the elbow joint. + +In the evening Shimakuk, who is a conjuror, came in, and as Ouligbuck +wished to try the effect of his charms on the injured part, I of course +had no objections. The whole process consisted in putting some questions +(the purport of which I could not learn) to the patient in a very loud +voice, then muttering something in a very low tone, and stopping +occasionally to give two or three puffs of the breath on the wounded +arm. During these proceedings the men could with difficulty keep their +gravity; nor could I blame them, for the scene was irresistibly +ludicrous. + +I observed that one of the conjuror's dogs was lame, or rather very weak +in the legs, and on asking him the cause, he said that it arose from +having eaten trout livers when young. + +The latter part of the month of March was spent, by the majority of the +party, in making preparations for our journey, over the ice and snow, to +the northward, it having been my intention to set out on the 1st April; +but the accident to Ouligbuck prevented this, as I did not wish to leave +him until I saw that his wound was in a fair way of healing. Ivitchuk, +our intended companion, had not yet made his appearance. + +On the 3rd April the thermometer rose above zero, for the first time +since the 12th December. + +As the aurora was seldom noticed after this date, I may here make a few +remarks on this subject. It was often visible during the winter, and +usually made its appearance first to the southward in the form of a +faint yellow or straw-coloured arch, which gradually rose up towards the +zenith. During our stay at Fort Hope I never witnessed a finer display +of this strange phenomenon than I had done at York Factory, nor did it +on any occasion affect the horizontal needle as I had seen it do during +the previous winter there. + +The Esquimaux, like the Indians, assert that the aurora produces a +distinctly audible sound, and the generality of Orkneymen and Zetlanders +maintain the same opinion, although for my own part I cannot say that I +ever heard any sound from it. A fine display, particularly if the +movements are rapid, is very often succeeded by stormy or snowy weather, +but I have never been able to trace any coincidence between the +direction of its motions, and that of the wind. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + Set out for the north--Equipment of the + party--Snow-blindness--Musk-ox--Mode of killing it--Reach the + coast near Point Hargrave--Ice rough along shore--Pass Cape Lady + Pelly--Unfavourable weather--Slow progress--Put on short + allowance--River Ki-ting-nu-yak--Pemmican placed _en + cache_--Cape Weynton--Colvile Bay--High hill--Dogs giving + way--Work increased--Snow-house-building--Point Beaufort--Point + Siveright--Keith Bay--Cape Barclay--Another _cache_--Leave the + coast and proceed across the land--River A-ma-took--Dogs knocked + up--Lake Ballenden--Harrison islands--Party left to procure + provisions--Proceed with two of the men--Cape Berens--Relative + effects of an eastern and western aspect--Halkett Inlet--Reach + Lord Mayor's Bay--Take formal possession of the + country--Commence our return to winter quarters--Friendly + interview with the natives--Obtain supplies of provisions from + them--View of Pelly Bay--Trace the shore to the eastward--Travel + by night--Explore the coast of Simpson's Peninsula--Arrive at + Fort Hope--Occurrences during the absence of the exploring + party--Character of the Esquimaux Ivitchuk. + +Everything having been for some days in readiness for our contemplated +journey, I only awaited the arrival of our Esquimaux ally Ivitchuk. He +made his appearance on the 4th April in company with his wife, his +father and brother, and their wives. I could have well dispensed with +the presence of the party, excepting the man who was to go with us, as +there were many things to be attended to. It is strange that throughout +the winter, with one or two exceptions, the visits of these people have +happened on Sundays. Our intended travelling companion having received a +coat from one, inexpressibles from another, leggings from a third, &c., +was soon completely dressed "à la voyageur," not certainly to the +improvement of the outer man, but much to his own satisfaction. +Ouligbuck's arm being now in a fair way of recovery, there was no cause +of detention. + +The party, consisting, besides myself, of George Flett, John Corrigal, +William Adamson, Ouligbuck's son, and Ivitchuk, started early on the +morning of the 5th. We were accompanied by two sledges, each drawn by +four dogs, on which our luggage and provisions were stowed. Our stores +consisted of three bags of pemmican, seventy reindeer tongues, one +half-hundred weight of flour, some tea, chocolate, and sugar, and a +little alcohol and oil for fuel. At first the weather was far from +favourable for travelling, as there was a gale of wind with snow, but +about 8 A.M. the sky cleared up, and the day became as fine as could +have been wished. The sun shone forth with great brightness, surrounded +by a halo of the most brilliant colours, with four parhelia that +rivalled the sun himself. Our route was the same as that followed in +the boat last autumn; but although the snow was hard-packed and not +rough, our sledges were too heavy to allow us to travel quickly. +Numerous bands of deer crossed our path, and enlivened the scene at the +same time that they kept up the spirit of our dogs. Our latitude at +noon, by an observation of the sun, was 66° 42' N., variation of the +compass 64° W. Between 7 and 8 P.M., both dogs and men being somewhat +fatigued with their day's work, we stopped on the east side of Christie +Lake to build our snow hut, which our Esquimaux friend was so long in +completing on account of the bad state of the snow for building, that it +was 11 o'clock before we got into our blankets. The situation of our +encampment was in latitude 66° 49' 30" N., longitude 87° 20' W. + +6th.--We passed a comfortable night, and it was 6 o'clock in the morning +before we were again on the march; three hours more brought us to the +northern extremity of the lake, where we had left a bag of flour "en +cache" the previous autumn. Two men who had accompanied us, for the +purpose of taking the flour back to our winter quarters, returned from +this place. + +A little before noon we arrived at the snow hut of the two Esquimaux, +Shimakuk and Kei-ik-too-oo, who, with their families, had been staying +some time here angling trout. I had agreed with those people that they +should build a large snow house for our accommodation, having expected +to reach them at the end of our first day's journey. In this we were +disappointed; but, as the contracting party had prepared a fine roomy +dwelling for us, they received the stipulated price--a clasp knife. At +noon, when still on the lake, the latitude 66° 58' 16" N. was observed. + +Kei-ik-too-oo having come with us for a short distance, I proposed that +he should get his sledge and dogs and accompany us for two days; this, +for a dagger as a consideration, he gladly agreed to do, and immediately +went off at a great rate to bring up his team. Being quite light he soon +overtook us, and was not long in getting a heavy load on. I soon saw the +advantage of his iced runners over the iron ones, and determined to have +ours done in the same way on the first opportunity; on this account we +stopped sooner than we would otherwise have done, having travelled +sixteen geographical miles. We found a number of old Esquimaux houses, +one of which we prepared for our use by clearing out the snow that had +drifted into it. Whilst the two Esquimaux were icing the sledges, the +remainder of the men were cooking and preparing our bed; the latter +being a very simple process, merely requiring the snow to be well +smoothed, and one or two hairy deer-skins laid over it to prevent the +heat of the body from thawing the snow. The weather was fair all day, +and except in the morning when the thermometer was -16°, it was rather +warm for walking. After we got into our lodgings a strong breeze sprung +up with thick drift. Some of the party were slightly affected with +snow-blindness. + +7th.--The weather was gloomy and dark this morning, with the thermometer +at +5° when we started at half-past 3. Our sledges ran much easier since +they had received a coating of ice on their runners, although they were +not yet equal to Kei-ik-too-oo's. We followed the same route as that +taken by the boat last autumn until 9 o'clock, when being two miles from +the sea we struck across land towards Point Hargrave; at noon we were in +latitude 67° 16' 51" N., variation of the compass 74° 30' W. We found +the snow much softer than it was on the lakes and river, and our +progress was consequently much slower than in the first part of the day. + +At 2 P.M. we arrived at a small lake, about four miles from Point +Hargrave. As this was the only fresh-water lake we were likely to meet +with for some time, I determined to stop for the purpose of renewing the +icing on the sledges, which had been a good deal broken by the +irregularities of the road. Notwithstanding that we had gone only +eighteen miles our dogs were very tired, and I began to fear that they +would not hold out so well as was expected. Our Esquimaux friend was to +leave us the next day, and as his sledge was light he expected to reach +his house the same day. This is a favourite resort of the musk-ox as +soon as the snow disappears. The mode of killing these animals is the +same as that described by Sir J. C. Ross as practised in Boothia Felix +by the Esquimaux: being brought to bay with dogs, they are either shot +with arrows or speared. + +When we resumed our journey at 5 o'clock next morning, there was a +strong breeze right ahead with thick drift, the temperature being +6°. A +walk of three miles brought us to the coast about a mile from Point +Hargrave. There was a great deal of rough ice along the shore, which +gave both men and dogs much hard work to drag the sledges over. It had +now begun to snow, and the drift was so thick that we could not follow +the smoothest route; we consequently advanced but slowly, taking four +hours to gain five and a half miles, which brought us to Cape Lady +Pelly. + +Since leaving Fort Hope, I had measured every foot of the ground we had +passed over with a line, but now the increased difficulty of the route +made it requisite that all hands should be employed in dragging the +sledges. One of our best dogs became quite useless, and although +unharnessed would not walk, so that rather than lose the poor animal, we +dragged him on the snow several miles before reaching our intended +encampment. + +After passing Cape Lady Pelly the coast turns rather more to the +westward. The weather continued very unfavourable all day, there being +much snow-drift; we however advanced seven miles farther, and at 4 P.M. +built our night's lodgings on the ice, a few hundred yards from the +shore. In an hour and a half we were comfortably housed. Finding that +our day's journeys were much shorter than I had anticipated, our +allowance of food for supper was somewhat reduced. The thermometer in +the evening stood at +11°. Our snow hut was situated in latitude 67° 35' +N., longitude 87° 51' W. both by account. + +After a sound night's rest we resumed our journey at 5 in the morning of +the 9th. There was some snow falling, but the wind had decreased, and +the temperature of the air was +2°. Our course was N.W. by W. for three +miles, when we came to a low point formed of shingle and mud, with some +rocky rising grounds a few miles inland. This point received the name of +Swanston, after a friend. A short time before noon the sky cleared, and +very satisfactory observations for latitude and variation of the compass +were obtained, the former being 67° 40' 53" N., the latter 71° 30' W. +The dog that had been unharnessed the day before had become still +weaker, and as I did not wish to leave him to the mercy of the wolves, +he was shot. We offered some of his flesh to the other dogs, but there +was only one of them that would eat it. + +Having walked fourteen miles, we arrived at a small river 70 yards wide, +and, although it was only half-past three, we commenced building our +snow house. We here found a number of stones which allowed us to place +"en cache" half a bag of pemmican, some flour, shoes, &c., for our +homeward journey. The river, which is called Ki-ting-nu-yak, was frozen +to the bottom, but in summer it is a favourable fishing station, both +salmon and a small species of the white fish being found. I did not see +any of the latter, but from the description given by the Esquimaux I +have no doubt that they frequent this part of the coast. + +The evening was beautifully clear, and the thermometer fell to -16°. + +10th.--There was a thick haze this morning with light variable airs of +wind; temperature 6° below zero. By striking straight out from land for +a mile or two, we got upon somewhat smoother ice, and consequently made +more progress. We passed a number of hills, not of any great elevation +however, and at noon we were opposite one named Wiachat, fully 500 feet +high, and some miles from the coast. Here the latitude 67° 53' 24" was +observed, and the coast turned off to the westward, forming a point +which was named Cape Weynton. We now commenced crossing a bay 5 or 6 +miles deep, and apparently 12 wide, which received the name of Colvile, +in honour of the Deputy Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company. A mouse or +lemming crossed our path, and the dogs, although they appeared to be +scarcely able to put one foot before another, set off at full speed in +chase, and before any one could interfere to save it, the poor little +animal was quivering in the jaws of the foremost. + +Being unable to reach the north side of Colvile Bay, at 4 P.M. we took +up our quarters on the ice in our usual snug lodgings, in latitude 68° +2' N., longitude 88° 21' W. A high hill bearing west of us, and distant +eight miles, called Oo-me-we-yak by the natives, was named after the +late John George M'Tavish, Esq., Chief Factor. Several of our dogs had +become very weak--so much so that during the latter part of the day's +journey they did little or nothing, thus giving us all much additional +work. They also required much more food to keep them in good condition, +than the dogs generally used in the fur countries. We only walked +sixteen miles this day; and I may here remark that all the distances +mentioned in this journal are given in geographical miles. + +Our usual mode of preparing lodgings for the night was as follows:--As +soon as we had selected a spot for our snow house, our Esquimaux, +assisted by one or more of the men, commenced cutting out blocks of +snow. When a sufficient number of these had been raised, the builder +commenced his work, his assistants supplying him with the material. A +good roomy dwelling was thus raised in an hour, if the snow was in a +good state for building. Whilst our principal mason was thus occupied, +another of the party was busy erecting a kitchen, which, although our +cooking was none of the most delicate or extensive, was still a +necessary addition to our establishment, had it been only to thaw snow. +As soon as the snow hut was completed, our sledges were unloaded, and +every thing eatable (including parchment skin and moose skin shoes, +which had now become favourite articles with the dogs) taken inside. Our +bed was next made, and by the time the snow was thawed or the water +boiled, as the case might be, we were all ready for supper. When we used +alcohol for fuel (as we usually did in stormy weather) no kitchen was +required. + +On the following morning we started about the usual hour, and directing +our course nearly north, a walk of five miles brought us to the opposite +side of Colvile Bay, which terminated in a long point covered with +boulders of granite and debris of limestone, and having a number of +stone marks set up on it. To this point the name of Beaufort was given, +in honour of the gallant officer who, with so much advantage to his +country and to nautical science, presides over the hydrographical +department of the Admiralty. + +Five miles farther we reached another low point called by the Esquimaux +E-to-uke, but renamed by me Point Siveright. The coast, now turning +slightly to the westward of north, continued in nearly a straight line +during the rest of this day's march. + +We were now tracing the shores of a considerable bay, as the land after +taking a sudden bend to the eastward followed a south-east direction as +far as visible. At 4 P.M. we stopped and built our snow hut; the day +had been fine throughout, and the temperature in the evening was 16° +below zero. The shores of the bay are very low, with the exception of a +high bluff point bearing S.E. by E. 6½ miles (by trigonometrical +measurement). The point was named Cape Barclay, in honour of the +Secretary of the Hudson's Bay Company, and the bay was called after my +much respected friend, George Keith, Esq., Chief-Factor. + +Since passing Colvile Bay the coast had become much lower and more +level, giving every indication of a limestone country. Being anxious to +save our fuel as much as possible, we filled two small kettles and a +bladder with snow and took them to bed with us, for the purpose of +procuring water to drink--a plan which was frequently adopted +afterwards. Our dogs had now become most ravenous; although they +received what was considered a fair allowance of provisions, everything +that came in their way, such as shoes, leather mitts, and even a worsted +belt, was eaten, much to the annoyance of the owners and to the +merriment of the rest of the party. We enjoyed a cold supper of pemmican +and water;--as we could afford a hot meal only once a day, we preferred +taking it in the morning. + +12th.--Being informed by our Esquimaux companion that, by crossing over +land in a north-west direction to a large bay which he had formerly +visited, we should shorten our distance considerably, I determined on +adopting the plan proposed. Our kettles of snow were found rather cool +companions, but there was a little water formed. The bladder having been +either leaky, or not properly tied, gave me and my next neighbour a +partial cold bath. The morning was delightful, being clear and calm, +with a temperature of -22°. We started at half-past 5, and after having +walked a short distance came to some loose pieces of granite and +limestone, which afforded an opportunity, not to be lost, for making a +deposit of provisions for our return journey. + +After tracing the shores of the bay for three miles and a half further +north to latitude 68° 18' N., longitude by account 88° 26' W., we left +the coast and proceeded over land in a north-north-west direction. +Walking became more difficult, and the snow was too soft to support the +sledges, the ice on the runners of which was now entirely worn off. A +mile's walk brought us to a small river with high mud banks, and frozen +to the bottom: it is named A-ma-took by the natives, and takes its rise +from a lake of the same name about a day's journey west of us. We next +passed between two elevations covered with limestone. I ascended that on +the right-hand or to the east of us, it being the highest and having two +columns of limestone, the one fourteen, the other nine feet high, at its +western extremity. There were many places here denuded of snow, showing +that the sun had already acquired great power. At noon we were in +latitude 68° 22' 19'' N., variation of the compass 79° 35' W. An hour +after, we reached a small lake, where we halted on account of our dogs +being quite knocked up, although we had only advanced twelve miles; I +therefore ordered a hut to be built that we might afford the dogs time +to recruit, and also have the sledge-runners put in order. We found the +ice on the lake 4 feet 8 inches thick, but we were disappointed to find +that there were no fish to be caught. We here enjoyed water ad libitum, +a luxury that had been rather sparingly dealt out for the last few days. +Ivitchuk drank as much as would have satisfied an ox. The thermometer in +the evening was 9° below zero. A few tracks of foxes were here seen, but +no signs of deer or musk-oxen. This part of the country appeared +miserably barren in every respect. + +On the morning of the 13th we commenced our march at 2.30 A.M.; the +weather was fine with light airs from the north-west: thermometer -15°. +At 5 o'clock we passed a small lake about a mile and a half long, and an +hour afterwards reached another of considerable size. Tung-a-lik, as the +lake is called by the Esquimaux, is 7 miles long due north and south, +and varying in breadth from a mile to a mile and a half. Near its centre +was a curious-looking island, about 7 feet high and 200 yards in extent, +covered with granite boulders and limestone. Its form is as nearly as +possible that of a semicircle, the concavity being towards the south. +To this lake I gave the name of Ballenden, after a much valued friend. +When near the north end of Ballenden Lake (over which we had travelled +rapidly, the snow being both hard and smooth), we turned more to the +west. At noon we arrived at a lake which was to be our resting place for +the night, as, although small, it was said to contain both trout and +salmon; but, after cutting through five feet of ice, we did not succeed +in catching any, although we tempted them with a bait from a buffalo +hide. In the afternoon the weather became very gloomy; a strong breeze +sprang up accompanied by a thick haze, and the thermometer rose to -11°. +By meridian observation our latitude was 68° 36' 58" N., variation of +the compass 78° W., longitude by account 88° 49" W. + +14th.--This morning was so stormy, with thick drift and snow, that we +could not start so early as usual; it however became more moderate at 5 +o'clock, and we were able to continue our route, although the guide +seemed much puzzled to keep in the proper direction, there being nothing +to serve as marks in this wilderness of snow. + +In the afternoon the weather again became worse, and the temperature +fell to -12°, which with a strong head wind made it sufficiently cold. I +felt it probably more than the others, as I had to stop often to take +bearings, and in consequence was once or twice nearly losing the party +altogether. We trudged on manfully until 5 P.M., when it cleared up for +two or three minutes, and we obtained a distant glimpse of some high +islands in the bay for which we were bound, called Ak-koo-lee-gu-wiak by +the natives. At half-past 5 we commenced building our snow house. This +was far from pleasant work, as the wind was piercingly cold, and the +fine particles of snow drift penetrated our clothes everywhere; we, +however, enjoyed ourselves the more when we got under shelter and took +our supper of the staple commodities, pemmican and water. Latitude 68° +51' N., longitude 89° 16' W. + +15th.--It blew a complete storm all night, but we were as snug and +comfortable, in our snow hive, as if we had been lodged in the best +house in England. At 5.30 the wind moderated to a gale, but the drift +was still so thick that it was impossible to see any distance before us, +particularly when looking to windward, and that unfortunately was the +direction in which we had to go. The temperature was 21° below zero,--a +temperature which, as all Arctic travellers know, feels much colder, +when there is a breeze of wind, than one of -60° or -70° when the +weather is calm. But there was the prospect of both food and fuel before +us, for seals were said to abound in the bay and heather on the islands +of Akkooleeguwiak. Such temptations were not to be resisted; so we +muffled ourselves well up and set out. It was one of the worst days I +had ever travelled in, and I could not take the bearings of our route +more than once or twice. + +To make matters worse, one of our dogs, a fine lively little creature, +that was a great favourite with us all, became unable to walk +unharnessed, and the men having enough to do with the sledges, I +dragged, carried, and coaxed it on for a few miles; but finding that +some parts of my face were freezing, and that my companions were so far +ahead as to be out of sight, I was reluctantly compelled to leave the +poor animal to its fate. + +After a most devious course of nearly twelve miles, we came to the +shores of the bay. The banks were of mud and shingle, about sixty or +seventy feet high, and so steep that it was some time before we could +find a place by which to get down to the ice. We directed our steps +among much rough ice towards the highest of the group of islands named +Coga-ur-ga-wiak, apparently six miles distant, and encamped near its +western end in a little well-sheltered bay. All the party, even the +Esquimaux, had got severely frost-bitten in the face, but as it was not +much more than skin deep, this gave us little concern. When our house +was nearly built, a search was commenced among the snow for heather, and +we were so fortunate as to procure enough in an hour and a-half to cook +us some pemmican and flour, in the form of a kind of soup or pottage. + +We were all very glad to get into our blankets as soon as possible. The +weather became somewhat finer in the evening, but it drifted as much as +ever. The thermometer was -16°. Our latitude was 68° 53' 44" N., +longitude 89° 55' 30" west. Notwithstanding that I carried my watch next +to my skin the cold stopped it, and I could not tell exactly the time of +our arrival at the island, but I believed it was near 2 P.M. + +On the 16th, a gale of wind from N.W. with thick drift, and the +thermometer at -20°, would have prevented our travelling had I intended +it; but as I purposed leaving some of the men and all the dogs here to +recruit, I wished to find out the Esquimaux (who we knew were in the +neighbourhood, as the recent foot tracks of two had been seen on the +shore the day before), and obtain from them some seals' flesh and +blubber for our use. Flett, Ivitchuk, and the interpreter were sent on +this mission, but they returned in the evening unsuccessful. The drift +was so thick in the bay that they could not see to any distance. In the +meantime Corrigal and Adamson had been collecting fuel, and I being +under the lee of the island obtained observations for latitude and +variation of the compass, the former being 68° 53' 44" north as above, +the latter 87° 40' west. + +I prepared for an early start the next morning in company with Flett and +Corrigal, for the purpose, if possible, of reaching Sir John Ross's most +southerly discoveries, which could not now be distant more than two +days' journey. + +The party that were to be left behind had orders to kill seals, (for +which purpose Ivitchuk was furnished with a spear,) to trade provisions +from the Esquimaux if they saw any, and, above all, to use as little of +our present stock as possible. All that we could afford to take with us +was four days' scanty allowance. I had for the last week carried my +instruments, books, &c., in all about thirty-five pounds weight; and I +now intended to do the same. + +The morning of the 17th was stormy and cold (-22°), and we did not start +until near 6 o'clock; when we had got well clear of the S.W. end of the +island, we found the ice smooth, and the snow on it hard-packed. As the +men had but a light load we travelled fast, our course being nearly N.W. +towards the farthest visible land in that direction. A brisk walk of +seventeen miles brought us, an hour before noon, to the shore near a +high point formed of dark gray granite, which I named Cape Berens, after +one of the Directors of the Company. It is situated in latitude 69° 4' +12" N. by observation, and longitude 90° 35' 48" W. by account. The +shore, which was steep and rocky, ran nearly in a straight line, and in +the same direction that we had been already travelling. At 3 P.M. we +came to two narrow points in a small bay, between which we built our +snow-house. To these points I gave the name of "the Twins." Their +latitude is 69° 13' 14" N., longitude 90° 55' 30" W. + +There being one or two hills at a short distance from us, I ascended +one of them to look for fuel, and to gain a view of our future route. I +obtained neither of these objects, but fell in with some lead ore, +specimens of which were brought away. + +On arriving at the snow-hut I found it nearly completed, but so small +that there was little prospect of a comfortable night's rest. Having but +a very small quantity of alcohol for fuel, our supper was a cold one. +Thermometer in the evening 19° below zero. Flett (one of Dease and +Simpson's best men) showed symptoms of fatigue, at which I was much +surprised, as, from what I had heard of him, I fancied he would have +tired out any of the party. + +18th.--My anticipations of passing an uncomfortable night were fully +realized. It might be thought that, as our whole bedding consisted of +one blanket, and a hairy deer-skin to put between us and the snow, there +was reason enough for my not sleeping soundly; but this was not the +case, as I often passed nights both before and after this with as little +covering, but never found myself cold. We started at 3 A.M. The morning +was fine but hazy, with a light air of wind from N.W. Thermometer -3°. +The walking was still fair; and I may here remark, that wherever the +land had an eastern exposure the ice was smooth, there being little or +none of the former year forced up along the shore; whenever the coast +was exposed to the west, the contrary was the case. + +Our course was nearly that of the previous day, but a little more to +the westward. After walking twelve miles we came to what proved to be +the head of a deep inlet, the western shore of which we had been +tracing, and which I named after John Halkett, Esq., one of the +Directors of the Hudson's Bay Company, whose son (Lieut. P. A. Halkett, +R.N.,) is the ingenious inventor of the portable air-boat, which ought +to be the travelling companion of every explorer. Two reindeer were seen +here. + +As there could be no doubt that, if my longitude was correct, I must now +be near the Lord Mayor's Bay of Sir John Ross, I decided on striking +across land, as nearly north as possible, instead of following the +coast. The men having had a short time to rest, we commenced a tiresome +march over land, the snow being in some places both deep and soft. We +crossed three small lakes, and at noon, when near the middle of another +about four miles long, an excellent meridian observation of the sun gave +latitude 69° 26' 1" N. When we had walked three miles more we came to +another small lake; and here, as there was yet no appearance of the sea, +I ordered my men to prepare our lodgings, whilst I went on alone to +endeavour to discover the coast. + +A walk of twenty minutes brought me to an inlet not more than a quarter +of a mile wide. This I traced to the westward for upwards of a league, +when my course was again obstructed by land. There were some high rocks +near at hand which I ascended, and from the summit I thought I could +distinguish rough ice in the desired direction. With renewed hopes I +slid down a declivity, plunging among snow, scrambling over rocks, and +through rough ice until I gained more level ground. I then directed my +steps to some rising ground which I found to be close to the seashore. +From the spot on which I now stood, as far as the eye could reach to the +north-westward, lay a large extent of ice-covered sea, studded with +innumerable islands. Lord Mayor's Bay was before me, and the islands +were those named by Sir John Ross the Sons of the Clergy of the Church +of Scotland. + +The isthmus which connects the land to the north with the continent is +only one mile broad, and even in this short space there are three small +ponds. From the great number of stone marks set up (the only ones that I +saw on this part of the coast), I am led to infer that this is a +deer-pass in the autumn, and consequently a favourite resort of the +natives. Its latitude is 69° 31' N., longitude by account 91° 29' 30" W. +This latter differs only a mile or two from that of the same place as +laid down by Sir James C. Ross, with whose name I distinguished the +isthmus, calling the land to the northward Sir John Ross's Peninsula. +After going down to the ice in Hardy Bay, and offering with a humble and +grateful heart thanks to Him who had thus brought our journey so far to +a successful termination, I began to retrace my steps towards my +companions. + +At a late hour I reached our snow hut, an excellent roomy one, in which +we could lie in any position; no trifling comfort after a walk of more +than forty miles over a rough road. + +It was 7 o'clock the following morning before we started. The weather +was pleasant, and the thermometer 12° below zero. Having taken +possession of our discoveries with the usual formalities, we traced the +inlet eastward, the shores of which were steep and rugged, in some +places precipitous. When we had walked four miles the land on our left +turned up to the northward, leaving an opening in that direction more +than two miles wide, bounded on the south-east by one or more islands. +This inlet I named after that celebrated navigator and discoverer Sir +John Franklin, whose protracted absence in the Arctic Sea is at present +exciting so much interest and anxiety throughout England. The most +distant visible point was called Cape Thomas after a relative. The land +on our right still trended to the east for two miles, and then turned to +the south. After walking seven miles in this last direction, and passing +two small bays and as many points, we stopped for the night. Here we +were fairly puzzled about the proper route, there being so many inlets +and small bays that it was impossible to tell which was the one we ought +to follow. The day had become very warm, the thermometer rising as high +as +26° in the sun, and as we were now travelling south, we found the +reflection from the snow much more painful to the eyes than when +proceeding north. The latitude of our snow house was 69° 22' N., +longitude 91° 3' W., both by account. The thermometer -19° in the +evening; cold water and pemmican for supper, and kettles of snow for +bedfellows. + +The morning of the 20th was cold, but calm; thermometer -24°. We +commenced our day's march at 2h. 30m. A.M., and in twenty minutes +arrived at the head of the inlet where I hoped to find a passage. Seeing +that it would be madness to trace all the indentations of this most +irregular coast, (for had a couple of days' stormy weather ensued we +should all have run the risk of starving,) I struck over land towards +our snow hut of the 17th. + +This was the most fatiguing and at the same time the most ludicrous +march we had experienced. As our route lay across several ranges of +hills, we had no sooner climbed up one side than we had to slide down +the other. To descend was not always an easy matter, as there were often +large stones in the way, past which we required to steer with great +care, or if a collision was unavoidable, to manage so as not to injure +ourselves. Corrigal appeared to be an old hand at this sort of work, and +I had had some practice, but poor Flett, who had begun to suffer much +from inflammation of the eyes, got many queer falls, and was once or +twice placed in such situations with his head down hill, his heels up, +and the strap of his bundle round his neck, that it would have been +impossible for him to get up by his own unaided exertions. + +After crossing a number of small lakes, we arrived at the steep shores +of Halkett Inlet about 11 o'clock, having been eight hours in walking as +many miles. We crossed the inlet, and as it had now begun to blow a +fresh breeze we stopped at a small bay, well sheltered, to take some +rest, and obtain a meridian observation of the sun. The latitude was 69° +16' 44" N., variation of the compass 76° 45' W. We were so fortunate as +to find here some heather by scraping away the snow, and we enjoyed the +luxury of a cup of chocolate, which refreshed us very much. + +We now resumed our march, and the walking being good and the day fine we +made rapid progress, although somewhat detained by the lameness and +blindness of Flett, who stumbled at every inequality of the ground, and +received some severe falls. After advancing two miles we came opposite +to a clear opening to the north-eastward, in which nothing but rough ice +could be seen. This was evidently the termination of the continent in +this direction. At 4 P.M. we arrived at our snow hut in the small bay +between the Twins. It was not my intention to remain here all night, but +the lameness of our companion prevented us from continuing our journey. +Whilst I went to search for fuel, Corrigal enlarged our snow house. I +found a little fuel, with which we contrived to thaw as much snow as +gave each of us nearly half-a-pint of water. The remainder of our +provisions, amounting to a few ounces of pemmican each, was fairly +divided, and having eaten part of this we betook ourselves to rest. + +21st.--Having passed a far from pleasant night, and used the last of our +alcohol to procure some water as a diluent for our not very plentiful +breakfast, we started at a little before 2 A.M. There was a strong +breeze from N.W. with thick drift occasionally, and a temperature of +-20°, but the wind being on our backs it was rather an advantage than +otherwise. We directed our course straight for the island on which we +had left the rest of the party, and which could be seen at intervals +when the snow drift cleared away. + +Flett being still very lame, I desired Corrigal to remain in company +with him, whilst I went on alone to order some provisions to be prepared +by the time they came to the snow house. The ice being smooth, and the +snow on its surface hard, I made rapid progress until within about five +miles of our temporary home. Here I observed some strange looking +figures on the ice, which the thickness of the weather prevented me from +seeing distinctly. On a nearer approach I found that what had puzzled me +was a number of Esquimaux spears, lances, &c. stuck on a heap of snow; +and immediately afterwards four Esquimaux came from behind a mound of +ice, holding up their hands to show that they were unarmed. The natives +of this part of the coast bear a very bad character, and are much feared +by their countrymen of Repulse Bay. I therefore was not quite sure what +sort of reception I might meet with, as my men were not in sight and I +was quite unarmed. But to anticipate evil is often the most likely way +to cause it, so I went directly up, and saluted them with their usual +term for peace (teyma), shaking hands with all after the fashion of our +own country. They all shouted out Manig Tomig, which are the words +mentioned by Sir John Ross as the form of salutation employed by the +natives of Boothia Felix. A very animated conversation soon ensued, in +which I bore but a very small share; but as I appeared to be a good +listener, and put in a negative or affirmative every now and then when +there appeared to be a necessity for saying something, we got on very +well together. + +We were soon joined by an old woman who took upon herself the office of +mistress of the ceremonies, and commenced with great volubility to give +me the names of the men, which were as follows:--A-li-ne-a-yuk, Kag-vik, +Tag-na-koo and Nu-li-a-yuk; the first being old, the second middle aged, +and the two last young men of about twenty-five. They were all married, +and were much more forward in their manners and dirty in their persons +and dress, than our friends of Repulse Bay. They were very anxious for +me to enter their huts, but this I thought it prudent to decline, and +after much persuasion and promises of knives, needles, beads, &c. I +prevailed on them to follow me to our snow house. + +A little more than an hour brought me to our encampment, where I found +Adamson quite well but all alone, Ivitchuk and the boy being out +looking for seals. They had not met with any Esquimaux, and no animals +of any kind had been killed, Ivitchuk standing so much in awe of his +countrymen that he was afraid to stay out seal-hunting during the night, +which is the only time that these animals are to be caught at that +season of the year. I found that much more of our stock of provisions +had been used than there was any occasion for--in fact, the appearance +of the men shewed that they had been on full allowance. + +About an hour after my arrival, Corrigal and Flett made their +appearance, accompanied by the four Esquimaux that I had seen and a boy. +A few trifling presents were made them, and they promised to return on +the following day with oil, blubber, &c. to barter with us. It blew a +gale all the evening, with the thermometer 21° below zero. + +The morning of the 22d was fine with a temperature of -20°, but during +the day it blew hard with drift. Our party kept in bed rather longer +than usual, and we were visited by the Esquimaux before we had got up. +They brought a quantity of seal's flesh, blood, and blubber, which I was +about to purchase from them when the thermometer was reported as +missing. I immediately shut the box containing the valuables, and +intimated that they should receive nothing unless the thermometer was +given up. After about ten minutes' delay one of the women brought in the +lost article, saying, that the dogs had pulled it down and carried it +off,--a very probable story certainly; but having obtained what I wanted +I cared little who might be the thief. + +A brisk traffic was soon commenced for oil, seals, blubber, flesh and +blood, for which knives, files, beads, needles, &c. were given. We also +obtained half a dozen dried salmon and a small piece of dried musk-ox +flesh, both very old and mouldy. These Esquimaux were found to be much +more difficult to deal with than our friends of Repulse Bay, being very +forward and much addicted to stealing. They had undoubtedly had +communication with the natives of Boothia Felix, as there were many of +their weapons, and parts of their sledges formed of oak. I also observed +some small pieces of mahogany among them. One of the strangers proved to +be an uncle of Ivitchuk. + +It continued to blow hard in the evening with a temperature of -15°. +Preparations were made for examining the shores of the bay in which, by +Esquimaux report, we now were. + +23d.--This was another stormy and cold day until the afternoon, when it +became fair. We were again visited by our neighbours, who brought us a +further and very acceptable supply of seals' flesh and blood, and also +two fine dogs to complete our teams, one or two of those we had being +still very weak. + +When about to make a tour round the bay, I learnt from one of the +natives that a complete view of its shores could be obtained from the +summit of the island on which we were. I found also that a chart which +he made of the bay agreed very closely with one drawn by the natives of +Repulse Bay, who had visited the place. The evening being beautifully +clear, I took with me the Esquimaux, one of the men, and the interpreter +to the highest point of the island, from which I obtained a distinct +view of the whole bay, except a small portion immediately under the sun. +The shores were high and regular in their outline, and being, in most +places, to a certain extent denuded of snow, they were much more clearly +seen than could have been expected. The bay appeared to extend 16 or 18 +miles slightly to the east of south, and was about 11 miles wide near +its head. Its surface was studded with a number of dark-coloured rocky +islands. The highest of these was the one on which we were staying, and +was found by measurement to be 730 feet above the level of the sea. It +was called Helen Island, whilst the group to which it belonged was named +after Benjamin Harrison, Esq. one of the Directors of the Hudson's Bay +Company. The Esquimaux pointed out the direction in which two rivers +near the head of the bay lay. These rivers, of which I took the bearings +by compass, were said to be of no great size, and frozen to the bottom +in winter. The bay was honoured with the name of Sir John H. Pelly, +Bart., Governor of the Company. + +The morning of the 24th was as beautiful as could be desired, with the +thermometer at -15°. There was a gentle air from the east, and the +horizon being very clear, I again obtained a fine view of the bay. + +Having abundance of blubber for dogs' meat and fuel, and as much seals' +flesh and blood for ourselves as at half allowance would serve us for +six or seven days, I determined to trace the shores of the land across +which we had travelled on our outward journey. + +For this purpose, both men and dogs being now much recruited, we started +at 8h. 30m. A.M. and took a N.E. by E. course towards the eastern shore +of the bay, which, having a western exposure, was much encumbered with +rough ice. We had some trouble in getting over this, but found it more +smooth along the shore, which trended due north. Finding that our +sledges were too heavily laden, we left on the ice a quantity of our oil +and blubber. Here we made a mistake in retaining the fresh fat of the +seal, instead of that which had become somewhat rancid, as we found +that, although the dogs ate the latter with avidity, they would scarcely +taste the former. This Ivitchuk well knew, but he was too stupid to tell +me of it at the time. One of our dogs that had done his work well since +leaving Repulse Bay, had become so weak that he could scarcely walk. We +endeavoured to coax him on, but unsuccessfully; it was therefore thought +advisable to leave him where we had lightened our load, as he would have +provisions for at least a fortnight, if not assisted by other animals, +and before that time he would very likely be found by the Esquimaux. A +meridian observation gave latitude 68° 50' 46" N., variation 78° 56' W. + +As the sun had acquired too much power for travelling comfortably during +the day-time, I stopped early so as to be able to continue our journey +about midnight. Our snow hut was built near a small creek, in latitude +68° 58' N., longitude 89° 42' W. The coast had become low and flat, with +a few fragments of limestone and granite boulders showing themselves +occasionally above the snow. The thermometer exposed to the sun's rays +rose to +37°. A little snow fell in the evening. + +On the morning of the 25th there was some more snow with a temperature +of -7°. We did not commence our march until some hours later than I had +expected. The direction of the land continued nearly north for eight +miles; it then turned off to the north-east, and continued so until we +stopped at noon, in latitude by observation 69° 14' 37" N., longitude by +account 89° 18' 18" W. The tracks of a large Polar bear and of some +lemmings were noticed this day. + +26th.--The morning was dark and cloudy when we started at 20 minutes +after one. When just about to set out, we were joined by the poor dog we +had left behind. He had grown into much better condition, although he +was still unable to haul. I may here add that he afterwards quite +recovered, and was the only one of our stock that I took to England with +me. + +Our course for seven miles was east, and then turned off S.E. by S. +forming a cape, which was named Chapman, after one of the Directors of +the Hudson's Bay Company. + +We continued walking on, in nearly a straight line, for 11 miles, when +our dogs became tired, and we encamped an hour before noon, in latitude +by observation 69° 5' 35" N., variation 81° 50' W., longitude by account +88° 43' W. At 11 P.M. we recommenced our march, the weather being +beautiful, and the temperature -8°. + +27th.--The coast trended in exactly the same direction as that we had +passed during the latter part of the preceding day's journey; the +walking was in general good, and our dogs were every day recovering +their strength. A single rock grouse (_tetrao rupestris_) was seen, but +so shy that we could not get a shot at it. Many traces of foxes, and the +recent foot-marks of a large white bear, were also seen. We kept a sharp +out-look for the latter, with the hopes of getting a few steaks out of +him, but he did not show himself. There was a high wall of broken ice +all along the shore here, which may be readily accounted for by the +direction of the coast, which, by contracting the bay, is exposed to the +pressure of the ice coming from the northward. Fortunate it was for us +that we had got some oil and seals' blubber, for there was not a bit of +anything in the shape of fuel to be seen along this barren shore. The +weather having become too warm, about 11 A.M., we stopped in latitude, +by observation, 68° 51' N., longitude by account 88° 6' W. + +The morning of the 28th was particularly fine, with a temperature of 15° +below zero. For eight miles our course was the same as that of the day +before, but the land now turned gradually to the southward, and finally +to about a south-by-west direction. At noon the sun had become so warm, +that we were compelled to encamp for the day. At three miles from where +we had stopped, we passed a small bay, about 1½ mile wide, the only +indentation of the coast we had seen since leaving Pelly Bay. Our +latitude by meridian observation was 68° 32' 40" N., variation of the +compass 70° 55' W., and our longitude by account 88° 2' W. + +29th.--We resumed our march at a little after 11 P.M. on the 28th. The +weather was calm, but cloudy, with the temperature -3°. The line of +coast now ran nearly south, and after a walk of five miles we came to a +narrow point, extending two miles to the eastward. We then crossed a bay +about 1½ mile wide, and arrived at another point of nearly the same +dimensions, both formed of mud and shingle. These I named respectively +after James and Robert Clouston, two intimate friends. + +Four miles further brought us opposite to a small low island, half a +mile from the shore, and at a short distance beyond this we came to a +small bay upwards of a mile wide. A little before noon we stopped to +build our snow hut. The day was now warm, the thermometer having risen +as high as +55° in the sun, and +18° in the shade. One of our best dogs +got lamed by putting his foot into a crack in the ice. We saw the smoke +of open water at no great distance, and heard the ice making a loud +noise as it was driven along with the tide. There were numerous traces +of foxes, and the tracks of a band of deer, with a wolverine in pursuit, +were noticed. The latitude of our position was 68° 15' N., variation 75° +52' W., and longitude by account 88° 5' 36" W. + +30th.--We started at half-past nine the previous night, with clear +weather and a fresh breeze from west, which, with a temperature of -8°, +made our already frost-bitten faces smart severely. After a few miles' +walk, we rounded a low spit of land, which had been hid from our view by +the rough ice on our outward journey, and which I now named Point +Anderson. Between this point and Cape Barclay, of which we now got +sight, there is a narrow bay running up to the northward two or three +miles. + +We had a great quantity of rough ice to scramble over, which, however +fatiguing, afforded some amusement, as the ridiculous positions in which +we were sometimes placed gave abundant food for mirth to those who were +disposed to look at every thing in the most favourable light. + +About midnight the weather became very stormy, so much so indeed that we +had great difficulty in keeping the proper course, which was now to the +north west, for the purpose of picking up the pemmican, &c. which we had +deposited on the shore of Keith Bay on the 12th. On reaching the west +side of the bay at 3 A.M. I found that we were not more than a hundred +yards from where our "cache" was placed, which we found quite safe. +Ivitchuk and the boy having lagged behind, we removed a quantity of +snow, and took possession of our old snow hut to wait for them. After +staying for an hour we resumed our journey, thinking that our companions +might have taken a shorter route across the bay; and this we found to be +the case. It had been cold and stormy during the greater part of the +night; but at 8 h. 30 m. A.M., when we encamped opposite Cape Beaufort, +the weather had become beautiful. + +The whole of the coast which we had traced during the last seven days, +as far as Cape Barclay, was low and flat, with neither rock nor hill to +interrupt the sameness of the landscape. It was named Simpson's +Peninsula after Sir George Simpson, the able and enterprising Governor +of the Hudson's Bay Company's territories, who projected and planned the +expedition, and to whose zeal in the cause of discovery Arctic +travellers have been so often and so much indebted. + +During the remainder of our journey homewards, having followed as nearly +as possible our outward route, we met with little of any interest. We +reached our encampment of the 9th of April on the 1st of May, and found +our "cache" of provisions quite safe. We had now an abundant stock of +food, nor were we sorry to exchange the seals' flesh and blood, on which +we had been subsisting for eight days past, for pemmican and flour. It +is true that during that time we had supped on a few dried salmon, which +were so old and mouldy that the water in which they were boiled became +quite green. Such, however, is the advantage of hard work and short +commons, that we enjoyed that change of food as much as if it had been +one of the greatest delicacies. Both the salmon, and the water in which +they were cooked, were used to the last morsel and drop, although I +firmly believe that a moderately well fed dog would not have tasted +either. + +We now saw numerous tracks of rein-deer, all proceeding in a N.E. +direction towards Melville Peninsula. Early on the morning of the 3rd of +May we arrived at the small lake near Point Hargrave, on which we had +encamped on the 7th of April; much of the snow had disappeared from the +ground in the neighbourhood, and the marmots had already cleared out the +entrances to their burrows, and recommenced their life of activity for +the summer season. Not an hour now passed without our seeing deer; but +they were extremely shy, and the only benefit we received from them was +the life and spirit their presence infused into our dogs. + +The night of the 4th was very unpleasant, there being much snow and +drift, which prevented us from seeing the ridges of snow which occurred +frequently on our path, and which being very hard and slippery, caused +us many falls. At half-past 1 on the morning of the 5th we reached some +old Esquimaux dwellings on the border of Christie Lake, about fifteen +miles from Fort Hope, in one of which we took up our temporary abode. At +2 P.M. on the same day we were again on the march, and arrived at our +home at 8 h. 30 m. P.M. all well, but so black and scarred on the face +from the combined effects of oil, smoke, and frost bites, that our +friends would not believe but that some serious accident from the +explosion of gunpowder had happened to us. Thus successfully terminated +a journey little short of 600 English miles, the longest, I believe, +ever made on foot along the Arctic coast. + +During our absence every thing, had gone on prosperously at winter +quarters. The people had been all in good health, and the wound in +Ouligbuck's arm had healed up, but the limb had not yet acquired much +strength. When I set out on the 5th of April there was but a very small +quantity of venison in store, so that I was afraid that Folster (the man +left in charge) would be forced to use pemmican, which substantial +article I wished to save as much as possible for future contingencies. +Fortunately the Esquimaux brought a little venison to barter, which, +with an occasional deer killed by the hunters, kept the party in food; +although the store at one time was so empty, that they were compelled to +have a dinner of tongues, which (except in case of necessity) were to be +kept for journeys. As the weather in the latter part of April became +stormy, and the deer numerous, the hunters were more successful, and +there was no further scarcity. Ouligbuck had, notwithstanding the wound +in his arm, killed four deer, and sixteen more had been shot by Nibitabo +and some others of the party; so that the meat store was well stocked +when I arrived; and well that it was so, for we were as ravenous as +wolves, and I believe ate more than would have been good for us had our +food been anything but venison, which is so digestible that a person may +eat almost any quantity without feeling any bad effects from it. + +May commenced with a beautiful day, the thermometer being above zero, +and continuing so throughout. This was the only day for many months past +that the negative scale of the thermometer had not been registered. On +the 3rd snowbirds were seen, and marmots had some time before emerged +from their winter quarters. + +The Esquimaux, with the exception of one or two families, had built +their snow huts within a quarter of a mile of our house, where they had +been living for more than a week. They had almost all behaved well, and +were commended accordingly. They had not yet commenced seal hunting, +but were to do so as soon as the seals came up on the ice; in the +meantime they were catching deer in snow traps made by digging holes in +the snow, and covering them with thin slabs of the same material. Wolves +are often taken in a similar manner; but for them the hole requires to +be not less than eight or nine feet deep, and after it is covered with a +thin plate of hard snow (on the centre of which a bait is laid), a wall +is built round it, over which it is necessary for the wolf to leap, +before he can reach the bait. He does so, and falls to the bottom of the +pit, which is too narrow to give him room to make a spring to the top. + +I may now say a few words about our travelling companion Ivitchuk, who +had behaved well throughout the journey. We found him always willing and +obedient, and generally lively and cheerful except when very tired, +which was frequently the case, as he had not been accustomed to travel +so many days consecutively. He accommodated himself easily to our +manners and customs in every respect, living as we did, though he would +swallow a piece of seal's blubber now and then as a delicacy. What +surprised me most was, that he was by no means a very great eater, being +often satisfied with as little as any of the party. Tea and chocolate +were favorite beverages with him, and he had learned to smoke his pipe +as regularly as if he had been accustomed to it all his life. He picked +up a few words of English, which he made use of whenever he thought +they were applicable, and was very anxious to be taught to read and +write. As he, like the rest of the party, was much thinner than when he +commenced the journey, he had made up his mind to do nothing during the +remainder of the spring but eat, drink, and sleep, a determination to +which I believe he most strictly adhered. It was with no small pride +that he received a gun and some ammunition, as a reward for his +services; and a few presents to his wife, one of the best looking of the +fair sex of Repulse Bay, made the pair quite happy, although it was said +that the lady had not behaved very well to her liege lord during his +absence, having taken unto herself another husband named Ou-plik; but +probably the good man knew nothing, or cared little, about it. + +Part of the men were now every day occupied in scraping among the snow +for moss and heather, of which a sufficient quantity was procured to +keep the kettle boiling. + +On Sunday the 9th divine service was read, and thanks offered to the +Almighty for having guided us in safety through the late journey. Many +Esquimaux were present, who conducted themselves with propriety. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + Preparations for exploring the coast of Melville + Peninsula--Outfit--Leave Fort Hope--Pass over numerous + lakes--Guide at fault--Dease Peninsula--Arrive at the + sea--Fatigue party sent back to Fort Hope--Barrier of + ice--Lefroy Bay--Large island named after the Prince of + Wales--Detained by stormy weather--Short allowance--Cape Lady + Simpson--Selkirk Bay--Snow knee-deep--Capes Finlayson and + Sibbald--Deer shot--A cooking scene--Favourite native + relish--Again stopped by stormy weather--Cape M'Loughlin--Two + men left to hunt and fish--Cape Richardson--Chain of + islands--Garry Bay--Prince Albert range of hills--Cape + Arrowsmith--Coast much indented--Baker Bay--Provisions + fail--Proceed with one man--Cape Crozier--Parry Bay--Cape + Ellice, the farthest point seen--Take possession--Commence our + return--No provisions procured by the men left behind--Short + commons--Flock of cranes--Snow-blindness--Arrive at Repulse Bay. + +On the 12th of May preparations were commenced for a journey along the +west side of Melville Peninsula. In expectation of falling in with much +rough ice, I determined on taking dogs only for the first three days of +the journey. The party was to consist of Corrigal (our snow-house +builder), Folster, Matheson, and Mineau, with Ouligbuck as deer-hunter +and interpreter. A fatigue party of two men, and an Esquimaux with a +sledge and good team of dogs, were to accompany us for three days, which +I supposed would be the time required to reach the coast. + +Our provisions for the journey were two bags of pemmican, each 90 lbs., +70 reindeer tongues weighing nearly 30 lbs., 36 lbs. flour, and a little +tea, chocolate, and sugar. We took also a gallon and a half of alcohol +and a small quantity of oil. + +Leaving George Flett in charge at Fort Hope, we started at 10 P.M. on +the 13th of May, and directed our course towards a chain of lakes in +nearly a due north direction. Although the snow was soft, and we had +some rather steep rising grounds to pass over, we made good progress, +and after crossing six small lakes we came to some high table-land, on +which the snow was very deep, and in which the sledge sank very much. A +walk of four miles brought us to another lake of considerable size. A +little after 6 A.M. on the 14th, we found some snow huts that had been +inhabited during part of the winter by the Esquimaux Ecouchi, and soon +had one of them cleared out for the accommodation of the party. + +Although we had not travelled much more than twenty miles, Ouligbuck was +so fatigued that I determined to send him back with those who were to +return to Repulse Bay. We saw no game and only very few tracks of deer. +The weather was so cloudy that no meridian observation of the sun could +be obtained. Our latitude was 66° 52' N., and longitude 86° 46' W., both +by account. + +We resumed our march at 9 P.M. on the 14th, the night being calm, with a +little snow falling. A brisk walk of two miles to the N.W. brought us to +the end of the lake, when we followed the bed of a small stream to the +northward for five miles. Two narrow lakes were next traversed, when our +guide, who appeared to know little about the proper route, led us to the +N.W.; and after crossing five lakelets, and as many short portages, at +half-past 6 A.M. we came to a body of water about the size of that near +which we had encamped the day before. Here we stopped for the day. The +ice on this lake was six feet thick, and gave the men much trouble to +cut through it. There was very little fuel to be found; we were +therefore obliged to burn part of the small quantity of oil we had taken +with us. By a meridian observation our latitude was 67° 5' 3" N., +variation of the compass 53° 30' W., and longitude by account 87° 8' 54" +W. The west side of the creek, and also of the lakes which we passed +over this day, was steep and rocky, although not high; the east sides +were more sloping. + +It was near 10 o'clock at night when we commenced our journey. After an +hour's walk we came to the north end of the lake, but our young +Esquimaux never having been here before (which was rather surprising, as +his usual winter home was not more than ten miles distant), was quite +at a loss what direction to take. It would have been quite easy for me +to have made a straight course by compass, but by doing so we were very +likely to get among ground so uneven, as to be impassable to the dogs +and sledge. We now turned to the east of north, and after crossing a +number of small lakes, arrived at the sea (which here formed a deep +inlet) at a few minutes before midnight. Proceeding down the inlet, +which for a couple of leagues was not more than half a mile wide, with +steep rocky shores (in some places precipitous), we came to rough ice, +and found that there were apparently two openings leading to the +northward. I chose the one to the left, but we had not gone more than a +mile-and-a-half, when we found that we were in an arm of the inlet, and +that the land to the north of us, which I had supposed to be an island, +was joined to the mainland by an isthmus not more than 50 yards wide. +This peninsula I named after P. W. Dease, Esq., the able leader, in +conjunction with T. Simpson, of the expeditions which explored so large +a portion of the Arctic shores in 1837, 1838, and 1839. + +Retracing our steps, we now followed the opening to the right, in which +there were great quantities of rough ice, over which we advanced but +slowly. The inlet (to which I had given the name of Cameron, after a +friend), soon became broader and the ice less rough. At 7 A.M. on the +16th we arrived at the Cape, which last autumn had been named after the +late Thomas Simpson, whose agreeable duty it would have been, had he +survived, to accomplish the survey which I was now endeavouring to bring +to a successful termination. The shores here were very barren, there +being little or no vegetation to be seen, except small patches in the +crevices of the rocks. In a small lake near our encampment, from which +we obtained water, the ice was found to be five feet thick. A sufficient +quantity of fuel was gathered to boil our kettle, and two hares were +shot by Corrigal. We here made a "cache" of some pemmican, flour, &c. +for our return journey. Our snow hut was built on the south side of the +cape, under shelter of rocks, near which there were two small islands. + +The sledge was to be sent back to Repulse Bay from this place, and with +it Ouligbuck, who from his inability to walk would have been an +incumbrance to us. The weather was so cloudy that no observation could +be obtained. Our latitude by account was 67° 22' (which I afterwards +found by observation to be nearly three miles too far north), longitude +87° 3' W. The whole of these three days' journeys had been measured with +a well stretched line, but this we could not expect to carry on further, +as each person would have enough to do with his load. + +Bidding adieu to our companions who were to return to Fort Hope, we +commenced our journey at half-past 8 P.M., each of my men being laden +with about 70 lbs., whilst I carried my instruments, books, and some +other articles, weighing altogether 40 lbs. This was but a light burden +for me, but as I had to examine different objects on the route, and also +to lead the way, I found it quite enough. + +As soon as we had fairly rounded Cape T. Simpson, the coast turned to +the eastward, and became indented with narrow but deep inlets, all of +which were packed full of rough ice. Walking became most difficult. At +one moment we sank nearly waist-deep in snow, at another we were up to +our knees in salt water, and then again on a piece of ice so slippery +that, with our wet and frozen shoes, it was impossible to keep from +falling. Sometimes we had to crawl out of a hole on all fours like some +strange-looking quadrupeds; at other times falling backwards we were so +hampered by the weight of our loads, that it was impossible to rise +without throwing them off, or being assisted by one of our companions. +We therefore found it better to follow the shores of the inlets than to +cross them, although by doing so we had double the distance to go over. +Numerous traces of hares were seen, but we could not afford to lose time +in following them. + +After passing four inlets having some small islands lying outside of +them, we came to a rocky point rather higher than any we had yet met +with on this side of the bay. The coast to the eastward of Point Cowie +(so named after an old friend) became more level, and instead of +granite, was covered with mud, shingle, and fragments of limestone. At +half-past 3 A.M., all of us being sufficiently tired with our night's +work, we built our snow hut and a small kitchen for cooking. This was +our usual practice when we had found, or were likely to find, fuel. In +the present instance, we had the good fortune to collect enough to boil +a kettle of chocolate, and we consequently enjoyed an excellent supper, +if I may so term a meal taken about six in the morning. + +The weather had been fine until midnight, when it began to snow and +drift, with a strong breeze from the north. Thermometer +13°. At noon +the sky was too much overcast to obtain an observation. Our latitude was +67° 24' 20" N., longitude 86° 37' W. both by account. + +When we resumed our journey, at 7 o'clock in the evening of the 17th, +there was still a strong breeze from N.N.W. with snow drift, the +temperature being +18°. Our snow hut of the previous day we now found to +be on the shore of a large bay, the most distant point of which bore +nearly due north. To follow the coast would have cost us a great deal of +additional walking; I therefore determined to attempt the traverse of +the bay towards the point above referred to. All along the coast there +was a belt of rough ice about two miles broad, over which we were forced +to pass before reaching some that appeared smoother outside. To cross +this barrier occupied us more than two hours, and gave us more violent +exercise than all the remainder of the day's journey. It was half-past 3 +A.M. when we arrived at the north point of the bay, which was low and +level, with some hills a few hundred feet high, three or four miles +inland. We had passed two small rocky islands to seaward in the first +part of the night, and there was another close to a bluff point on the +south side of the bay. To this cape I gave the name of Watt. The bay was +called after Lieut. (now Captain) Lefroy of the Royal Artillery, whose +name is well known to the scientific world, and of whose kindness in +aiding me in my astronomical studies I retain a most grateful +remembrance. + +We crossed over to Cape W. Mactavish (so named after William Mactavish, +Esquire, chief trader, an intimate friend, to whom I am much indebted +for assisting me in fitting out the expedition,) and stopped about three +miles beyond it. Here we built our snow hut, which was found by meridian +observation to be in latitude 67° 42' 22" N.; the variation of the +compass 80° 35' W., and the longitude by account 86° 30' W. Directly +opposite our encampment, and extending for about seventeen miles to the +northward of it, there was a large island of table land, with not a +single rock _in situ_ to be seen on it. Its southern extremity bore +nearly west (true) from us, and the strait which separated it from the +mainland was not more than a mile and a half wide. This island was +honoured with the name of His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, and a +smaller one to the south of it was named after Colonel Sabine. + +Not a single living animal had been seen all day, but some traces of +deer proceeding northward were noticed. We were again fortunate enough +to find a little fuel. + +Our route on the following night was nearly straight in a N.N.E. +direction. The snow was very soft and deep in many places. A few hundred +yards from the beach there were steep banks covered with shingle and +small boulders of granite, where we usually found the snow less deep, +and walking consequently better. After travelling nine miles we came to +a considerable creek, about twenty yards wide, in which a deep channel +had been worn among the mud and shingle. Near it there were numerous +Esquimaux marks set up, and circular tent sites, but all of old date. We +continued our march twelve miles further, and at 8 A.M. arrived at +another creek somewhat larger than the last, and with higher banks. Here +there were also many Esquimaux marks, and I afterwards learned that some +parties had resorted hither from Repulse Bay, for the purpose of +catching salmon, trout, &c. About an hour before reaching this place we +crossed a long and curiously shaped point, which I named Point Hamilton +after a near relative. The bay formed by it was called Erlandson. + +One of the men, although an able active fellow, not being used to this +sort of exercise, was much fatigued; and as the weather looked +threatening, I ordered our snow-house to be built--the more readily as +there was fuel to be found. In little more than a hour and a half we +were comfortably housed, and not long afterwards we had taken our usual +morning meal of pemmican seasoned with a handful of flour, those +forming, when boiled together, a very nourishing and not unpalatable +dish. The temperature all night had been 22° above zero, being too warm +for walking pleasantly; and the men, having had to exert themselves +much, were glad to get to rest as soon as possible, whilst I remained up +to obtain a meridian observation of the sun. This gave latitude 67° 58' +49" N. Our longitude by account was 85° 59' 36" W. The sun was too much +obscured by clouds to obtain the variation. We here deposited some +pemmican and a little flour for our return journey. + +When we started at 8 h. 30 m. P.M. on the 19th it blew a gale of wind +from S.S.E. with much drift and snow, the temperature being only 4° +below the freezing point. Fortunately the wind was on our backs; but the +drift was so thick that we were obliged to follow every turn of the +coast, and we could not see more than twenty yards before us. When we +had travelled six miles we came to a bay a mile and a half wide, on the +north shore of which there were two strangely shaped rocks of granite, +having the appearance of an old ruin or portion of a fortress. They +were of a square form, each about twenty-five feet high and nearly as +much in extent. + +Our course now lay due north; but we had not gone more than twelve miles +altogether, when the weather became so unpleasant that we were glad to +get under shelter, and before we did so, every part of our clothes was +penetrated with snow drift. We could obtain no fuel here. + +The weather continued so stormy that we were unable to leave our +snow-hut until a quarter past 8 P.M. on the 21st. During our detention, +finding that our provisions would run short if the walking continued as +difficult as it had been, we took only one not overabundant meal during +the twenty-four hours. There was still some snow falling, so that I +could not take the proper bearings of the land along which we passed. +The land, after we had proceeded N.E. for a few miles, turned to the +southward of east, forming a bay eight miles wide, which, as it was full +of rough ice, we were under the necessity of coasting. This bay was +called after the Rt Hon. the Earl of Selkirk, and the cape forming its +western boundary was named after the amiable lady of our much respected +governor, Sir George Simpson. + +The snow was in many places so soft and deep that we sank above the knee +at every step, which made our night's march fatiguing in the extreme. On +the N.E. side of Selkirk Bay, which is steep and rocky, there was a deep +indentation or inlet, into which two small creeks emptied themselves. +The land for five miles had a N.W. trending, and again turned up to the +eastward of N., forming a high rugged headland, which was named Cape +Finlayson, after Duncan Finlayson, Esq., Chief Factor. At three miles +from Cape Finlayson we passed Point Barnston, and about four miles +beyond this we came to another rocky point, which received the name of +Cape Sibbald. The night had now become very disagreeable, with a heavy +fall of snow; we persevered notwithstanding, partly crossing and partly +coasting a bay heaped with rough ice, and encamped on what I supposed +was its northern extremity, but which afterwards turned out to be an +island, and to which I gave the name of Glen. The bay we had just passed +was called after William G. Smith, Esq., Assistant Secretary to the +Hudson's Bay Company. + +The snow not being in a good state for building, we were rather longer +than usual in getting housed. There was no fuel to be found, so we +followed our old plan, and took a kettle or two of snow to bed with us. +The temperature was very high for the season, being only 5° below the +freezing point. + +When we started at a quarter-past 11 on the 22nd, the night was +beautifully clear and calm, with the thermometer at 13° below zero. +After a three hours' walk we arrived at the north point of a bay, three +and a half miles wide, across which we had come. To the bay I gave the +name of Fraser, and to the point that of Corcoran, after two intimate +friends, chief traders of the Company. + +We had not advanced many miles farther, when some deer were noticed at +no great distance, feeding on the banks of a stream. Being desirous of +procuring some venison if possible, I sent Corrigal (who, with other +good qualities, was a very fair shot) after them, and he was fortunate +enough to shoot a fine buck. But the buck, though wounded, could still +run too fast to be overtaken, and the sportsman was just about to give +up the chase when I joined him, and we continued the pursuit together. +The deer, having got a considerable way in advance, had lain down, but +rose up before we could get within good shooting distance, and was +trotting off at a great pace, when, by way of giving him a parting +salute, I fired, and very luckily sent a ball through his head, which +dropped him. His horns were already about a foot long, and the venison +was in fine order for the season of the year. + +I immediately returned to the men, who had been busily employed +collecting fuel, of which great quantities grew along the borders of the +creek, and sent two of them to assist in skinning and cutting up the +deer, whilst I and the other men continued to gather heather, as we now +anticipated great doings in the kitchen. We placed the greater part of +our venison "en cache," but kept the head, blood, leg bones, &c., for +present use; and being determined to lose nothing, the stomach was +partially cleaned by rubbing it with snow, and then cut up and boiled, +which thus made a very pleasant soup, there being enough of the +vegetable contents of the paunch to give it a fine green colour, +although I must confess that, to my taste, this did not add to the +flavour. Having discussed this mess, a second kettle full was prepared, +composed of the blood, brains, and some scraps of the meat, which +completed our supper. + +It is well known that both Esquimaux and Indians are very fond of the +contents of the paunch of the rein-deer, particularly in the spring, +when the vegetable substances on which the animal feeds are said to be +sweeter tasted. I have often seen our hunter, Nibitabo, when he had shot +a deer, cut open the stomach, and sup the contents with as much relish +as a London alderman would a plate of turtle soup. + +The position of our snow-house was in latitude 68° 33' 26" N., longitude +85° 20' 30" W., both by account. + +The weather was so stormy during the 23rd that we could not continue our +journey. The thermometer rose as high as +39° in the shade, and the +melting of the snow having wet the heather, we were obliged to have +recourse to alcohol. Three or four snow buntings and traces of +partridges (_tetrao rupestris_) were seen. + +On the 24th it still blew a gale of wind from the east, but there being +a partial thaw by the high temperature, there was no drift, and much of +the ground was entirely cleared of snow. + +In the evening the weather became more moderate, and the thermometer +fell to 5° below the freezing point. We started at a few minutes after +10 o'clock, our course being slightly to the east of north. The +travelling was still very fatiguing, as we were frequently forced to +pass over the rocks, or to walk along the steep drift banks, in order to +avoid the rough ice which had been heaped up against the shore. We +passed a number of small bays and points, and when we had advanced +fifteen miles, came to a high cape, which forms the N.W. promontory of a +bay five miles in extent. To the cape I gave the name of M'Loughlin, +after the gentleman who has been for many years in charge of the +Columbia department, and the bay was called after my much valued friend +Nicol Finlayson, Esq., Chief Factor. After passing Cape M'Loughlin we +turned to the eastward, toward the head of the bay, and stopped at 7 +A.M. near the mouth of a creek, where we took up our quarters for the +day. + +There was not so much fuel to be found as at our last encampment, but we +gathered enough to boil our kettle. Some bands of deer and a few +partridges were observed, but we did not waste time in endeavouring to +get a shot at them. Since leaving Fort Hope not a day had passed without +more or less snow falling, which made the travelling much more +difficult than I expected, and our progress consequently so much slower, +that, notwithstanding the addition I had made to our stock of +provisions, there was some danger of our still running short. I +therefore decided on leaving two of the men here to fish and shoot, +whilst I went forward with the others. + +There was a little snow falling when, along with Corrigal and Matheson, +I set out at 10 P.M. on the 25th. The night was mild (6° below freezing) +with a light wind from the east. A walk of two miles brought us to a +head land, which formed the north side of Finlayson Bay, and which +extended seven miles in a W.N.W. direction. To this cape the name of +Richardson was given, after the distinguished naturalist, who, having +already exposed himself to many dangers and privations in the cause of +science, is now about to incur similar hardships in the cause of +humanity and friendship, by searching for Sir John Franklin and his +gallant party, whose situation, it is too much to be feared, is a +critical one. + +At the place where we crossed Cape Richardson it was not more than a +mile wide, and we found ourselves in a large bay, thickly studded with +high and rugged islands. A chain of these islands, which lay outside of +us, and to which I gave the name of Pomona, (after the largest island of +the Orcadian group,) had effectually served as a barrier to the ice from +seaward, and had thus made the walking much smoother than we had hoped +to find it. As we advanced there were many tracks of polar bears, and +also those of a wolverine, that appeared to follow them very closely, +expecting no doubt to appropriate some portion of whatever prey they +might catch. A flock of long-tailed ducks passed us, flying to the +westward, towards some open water, the vapour exhaled from which +appeared in that direction. + +As we approached the north side of the bay, which was named after +Nicholas Garry, Esq., of the Hudson's Bay Company, there were so many +islands that I was much at a loss what direction to take. Under these +circumstances we encamped at 6 A.M. on a high island, about two miles in +diameter, from which a good view could be obtained. Garry Bay is the +most strangely shaped, and the most irregular in its outline, of any we +had yet seen. It presented three long, narrow, and high points of land, +and had four inlets. The largest and most southerly of these points was +called after Lieut. Halkett, R.N., and the most northerly of the inlets +received the name of Black Inlet. As no fuel could be obtained here, we +were reduced to the necessity of using some more of our alcohol, of +which but a small quantity now remained. The men were soon asleep under +our single blanket, (for this was all the covering we had for the +party,) whilst I remained awake for the purpose of obtaining an +observation of the sun at noon. This gave latitude 68° 59' 15" N., +variation of the compass 88° 26' W., our longitude by account being 84° +48' W. + +All the way between Lefroy and Garry Bays there is a range of hills, +from 500 to 800 feet high, about five miles from the coast, which was +distinguished by the name of His Royal Highness Prince Albert, consort +of our beloved Sovereign. + +The weather was beautiful all day, and was equally fine when we +commenced our march at half-past nine at night. Our route lay somewhat +to the west of north, between two lofty islands, the smaller of which +received the name of Gladman, and the larger and most northerly I +designated Honeyman, after a brother. Seven miles from our encampment we +passed a bluff and precipitous point, the northern extremity of Garry +Bay, to which the name of Cape Arrowsmith was given, in honour of John +Arrowsmith, Esq., the talented hydrographer to Her Majesty. + +The land was now completely serrated with narrow points and inlets, +along which we were able to make nearly a straight course, as the force +of the ice from the westward had been much broken by ridges of rocks +that lay outside of us. To four of these inlets I gave the names of +M'Kenzie, Whiffen, Bunn, and Hopkins, after much esteemed friends. + +Towards the end of our night's journey the coast turned nearly due +north, and when we had advanced seven leagues we encamped on Cape +Miles,--so named after Robert Miles, Esq., Chief Factor,--at 7 A.M. +on the 27th. As the morning was exceedingly fine, we thought there was +no necessity for building a snow-house, an omission which we regretted +in the afternoon, when a heavy fall of snow took place. + +By a good meridian observation of the sun, the latitude 69° 19' 39" N., +and the variation of the compass 92° 20' west, were obtained, the +longitude by account being 85° 4' W. The latter is evidently erroneous, +as I had neither chronometer nor watch that I could place dependence +upon, and the compasses were much affected by local attraction. + +Our provisions being now nearly all used, I could advance only half a +night's journey further to the northward, and return the following +morning to our present quarters. Leaving one of the men, I set out with +the other at half-past 9 P.M., the snow falling fast; and although we +had little or nothing to carry, the travelling was very fatiguing as we +crossed Baker Bay--so named in memory of a much valued friend--at the +north side of which we arrived after a walk of four miles. It now snowed +so thick that we could not see farther than fifty yards round us, and we +were consequently obliged to follow the windings of the shore, which, +when we had traced it six miles beyond Baker Bay, turned sharp to the +eastward; but the weather continuing thick, I could not see how far it +preserved this trending. After waiting here nearly an hour, the sky +cleared up for a few minutes at 4 A.M., which enabled me to discover +that we were on the south shore of a considerable bay, and I could also +obtain a distinct view of the coast line for nearly twelve miles beyond +it. + +To the most distant visible point (latitude 69° 42' N., longitude 85° 8' +W.,) I gave the name of Cape Ellice, after Edward Ellice, Esq. M.P., one +of the Directors of the Company; the bay to the northward, and the +headland on which we stood, were respectively named after the +distinguished navigators Sir Edward Parry and Captain Crozier. + +Finding it hopeless to attempt reaching the strait of the Fury and +Hecla, from which Cape Ellice could not be more than ten miles distant, +we took possession of our discoveries with the usual formalities, and +retraced our steps, arriving at our encampment of the previous day at +half-past 8 A.M. Here we found that Matheson, the man left behind, had +built a snow-house after a fashion of his own, the walls being like +those of a stone building, and the roof covered in the same way with +slabs of snow placed on the opposite walls in a slanting position, so as +to rest on one another in the centre. Seven hours had been spent in +building this edifice, which was not a very handsome one; but being +sufficiently wide, and, when our legs were doubled up a little, long +enough for us all when lying down, we found it pretty comfortable. + +During the remaining four hours of our absence, he had been engaged in +an attempt to coax a little wet moss into a sufficient blaze to boil +some chocolate; but, notwithstanding his most persevering exertions, by +the time his fuel was expended, the chocolate was little more than +lukewarm, although our cook _pro tempore_, who was of a sanguine +temperament, firmly believed that it was just about to reach the boiling +point. We finished the process with a little of our remaining stock of +alcohol, and enjoyed an excellent though rather scanty supper. + +Matheson was one of the best men I ever had under my command. Always +ready, willing, and obedient, he did his duty in every respect; and +whilst he possessed spirit enough for anything, he had a stock of good +humour which never failed him in any situation, however difficult and +trying. Were the walking difficult or easy, the loads heavy or light, +provisions abundant or reduced to less than half allowance, it was all +one to Peter Matheson; he had a joke ready for every occasion. + +A few minutes after 10 P.M. on the 28th, we were on the march homeward. +The night was very disagreeable, there being a strong breeze of head +wind with heavy snow, and a temperature much too mild (only 8° below the +freezing point) for walking comfortably. The snow also was very soft, so +that, had it not been for the bad state of our victualling department, +we would have remained snug in our quarters. But needs must when hunger +drives, so we trudged on stoutly, crossing over the land for the purpose +of shortening our distance. After a tough walk, during which we met +with some tracks of bears that had passed only about an hour before, we +encamped on a small island close to Cape Arrowsmith, and nearly three +miles to the northward of our snow hut of the 26th. The weather during +the day became fine, so fine indeed that our house, not being built of +good material, tumbled down about our ears just before we were leaving +it. + +29th.--When we started at half-past 9 P.M., the night was fine, but in +half an hour it began to snow so thick that we could not keep our course +in crossing Garry Bay, where the walking was much worse than when we +formerly passed. In three hours the weather again cleared up, and I +found that we had not deviated much from the right road. + +At 7 A.M. we joined Folster and Mineau, whom we found quite well, but +like ourselves very thin. The only animals they had killed were two +marmots, and no fish had been caught. If we had been twelve hours longer +absent, they intended to have boiled a piece of parchment skin for +supper, and to have kept the small remaining piece of pemmican for +travelling provisions. + +I have had considerable practice in walking, and have often accomplished +between forty and fifty, and, on one occasion, sixty-five miles in a day +on snow shoes, with a day's provisions, blanket, axe, &c. on my back; +but our journey hitherto had been the most fatiguing I had ever +experienced. The severe exercise, with a limited allowance of food, had +much reduced the whole party, yet we were all in excellent health; and +although we lost flesh, we kept up our spirits, and marched merrily on, +tightening our belts--mine came in six inches--and feasting our +imaginations on full allowance when we arrived at Fort Hope. + +On the 30th we continued our course homewards, crossing over the several +points that we had formerly coasted. It snowed heavily all night, and +the temperature was only two degrees below the freezing point. Eight +cranes "winged their circling flight" northward, and half a dozen +sandpipers were seen. It was near 4 A.M. on the 31st when we arrived at +our snow house of the 23rd, which we found quite as good as when we left +it and our cache of venison all safe. Three partridges were shot, which +somewhat aided our short commons. + +On the following night, after an ineffectual attempt to get to seaward +of the rough ice, in which we lost a considerable portion of the skin +off our shins, we travelled on the land, making short cuts whenever +practicable. + +On arriving opposite to Glen Island, we found that it was divided from +the shore by a channel not much more than a quarter of a mile wide. +There was an inlet a few miles in length to the eastward of it, which +was named after the Rev. Mr. Mackar of Kingston, Canada West. This night +was the finest we had experienced throughout the journey. + +A specimen of trap rock was obtained from some rising grounds a mile +and a half distant from the north shore of Smith's Bay, near the head of +which we now for the first time observed a lake of a couple miles in +extent. When half a league from Cape Sibbald, we encamped under shelter +of some precipitous trap cliffs nearly a hundred feet high. Some more +cranes were seen, and numerous traces of deer and partridges. We here +procured some fuel, there being patches of ground bare of snow. Our +latitude by observation was 68° 19' 50" N. Variation of the compass 80° +55' W. Two of the men were affected with snow blindness--one of them +severely. + +1st June.--It blew a gale of wind from S.E., with thick snow-drift at +8h. 30m. P.M. when we resumed our journey. At half-past 10 we crossed +the largest stream that we had yet met with on Melville Peninsula. It +was already partially open, owing to numerous springs, which had formed +many small mounds of ice from ten to twelve feet high. After taking a +copious draught from the limpid stream, we continued our journey across +Point Barnston and Cape Finlayson, until we arrived at Selkirk Bay, +when, the weather having become much worse, we stopped at 1h. 30m. A.M. +to build our snow hut at a place where there was such an abundant supply +of heather, that we had enough to cover our snow-bed with. Two deer were +seen, and Corrigal made an ineffectual attempt to get a shot at them. I +shot five ptarmigan, and four sandpipers were observed. + +During the next night's journey the weather was very snowy, but the wind +being more moderate we got on faster. After coasting Selkirk Bay, we cut +across Cape Lady Simpson, and at half-past 6 A.M. on the 3rd of June, we +reached our encampment of the 19th ultimo in Erlandson Bay, where we +found our small "cache" of provisions quite safe. Five more partridges +were shot, and some deer seen. The snow being very soft, we remained +here all day, and at noon obtained the latitude 67° 59' N., and +variation 75° 9' W. The thermometer in the shade rose as high as +54°, +and our old snow-house tumbled down about our ears in the evening, just +as we were going to take our supper,--perhaps breakfast would be the +more appropriate term, as we had turned day into night. + +We started at 8h. 30m. P.M., and notwithstanding the great power of the +sun, so much snow had fallen lately that it lay far deeper on the ground +than when we had previously passed this way. The walking also was so +much more fatiguing, that we were not able to reach our snow-house of +the 18th of May, and were in consequence under the necessity of building +new lodgings. The night was mild and nearly calm. Two phalaropes (_P. +fulicarius_) were seen, and a couple of ptarmigan shot. There was no +fuel to be found here, but having picked up a little as we came along, +we did not feel the want of it much. + +The 4th was a fine night with the thermometer at +23°, when, at 7h. +40m., we resumed our march. Whilst rounding Cape Mactavish we fell in +with nine partridges, seven of which were shot, and I endeavoured to get +within range of a couple of swans--the first we had seen--but they were +too shy. We now crossed Lefroy Bay, the snow on which was very soft, and +built our snow-house on the ice at 7h. A.M. about four miles from its +south shore. The work during this journey had been so much more severe +than was expected, and the men had in consequence used so much more +tobacco than they had anticipated, that their stock was now quite +exhausted, and they appeared to feel the want as much as if they had +been deprived of half their allowance of food,--perhaps more. It was +really amusing to see how very particular they were in dividing the +small remaining bits which they rummaged from the dust and rubbish in +their pockets, and which at any other time they would have thrown away. +I happened to have a little snuff with me, a pinch of which, in their +necessity, they relished much. + +We were on foot again at 20 minutes after 8 on the 5th. The weather had +been stormy all day, but became fine an hour after we started. We kept +well out from land, expecting to find the ice smoother; and this was the +case as far as Point Cowie; but beyond that the rough ice extended quite +across the bay; we therefore struck in for the shore, which after two +hours' scrambling we reached, and directed our course over the +rocks,--from which the snow had now, in many places, entirely +disappeared,--towards Cape T. Simpson, where we arrived at 5h. A.M. on +the 6th, and found our "cache" of provisions, &c., as we had left it. No +time was lost in getting the stones cleared away from it, not so much +for the purpose of having something to eat, as to find some tobacco that +had been left here among other things. A fine hare had been shot, and as +soon as three of the party, who had stopped behind to gather fuel, came +up, we had a much more abundant and palatable meal than we had enjoyed +for many days before. To the large bay, the survey of which we had now +completed, the name of Committee Bay was given, in honor of the +Committee of the Hudson's Bay Company. This was the finest day we had +experienced during this journey, the power of the sun being so great as +to raise the thermometer to +82°. + +By an excellent meridian observation in quicksilver, our latitude was +67° 19' 14" N., variation of compass, 64° 27' W. Wishing to take a +straighter, and consequently shorter, route to Repulse Bay than that by +which we had gone, we started at 9 P.M. on the 6th, and after a walk of +three hours came to the head of a narrow inlet, with high rocky shores, +and about seven miles long, to which I gave the name of Munro. Our +course overland was nearly due south, and we passed over a number of +small lakes, from which the snow had been partially removed by the +joint action of the sun's rays and the wind. + +On the following night our course continued the same with a slight +inclination to the westward. We had a strong gale of fair wind, which +helped us along amazingly; but as we could easily reach Fort Hope in +another night, and as we had abundance of food, we encamped at 3h. 30m. +A.M. on the 8th, during the whole of which day, until late in the +evening, it blew hard with drifting snow, so that no observations could +be made. + +Being anxious to arrive at winter quarters early on the following day, +we were again on the march at half-past 7 P.M., and the evening having +now become fine, we kept up a smart pace for a few hours until we +arrived at Christie Lake, where, finding some very fine heather quite +dry and free from snow, it was impossible to resist the temptation of +having something to eat and drink. Having taken up our quarters in an +old snow-hut, the chocolate and pemmican kettles were soon on the fire, +and we heartily enjoyed our rather unusual meal. Following the lake and +North Pole River, we came to Fort Hope at 8h. 20m. A.M. on the 9th, all +in good health and spirits, but very much reduced in flesh, although not +quite so black as when we returned from the previous journey. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + Occurrences at Fort Hope during the absence of the exploring + party--Remove from winter quarters to tents--Sun seen at + midnight--Build an oven and bake bread--Esquimaux method of + catching seals--A concert--Lateness of the summer--A native + salmon-wear--Salmon spear--Boulders on the surface of the + ice--Visited by a native from the Ooglit Islands--His report of + occurrences at Igloolik--Indolence of the natives--Ice breaking + up--Halkett's air-boat--A storm--The ice dispersed--Prepare for + sea. + +During my absence from Fort Hope little beyond the usual occurrences of +the winter had taken place. The latter part of May was remarkable for +the great quantity of snow that fell, with gales of wind and drift, +which kept the men almost continually clearing away snow from the roofs +of our houses. They were obliged even to go to work during the night, +and notwithstanding all the care that was taken, two of the boats' yards +were broken, and the masts very nearly shared a like fate, as the post +placed under them gave way. For so great a quantity of snow lodging on +our roof, the man left in charge was to blame, as shortly after my +departure he had the snow thrown up in heaps, which, when the stormy +weather and snow-drift came on, caused drift-banks to be raised to an +equal height (about 4½ feet) on the tops of our dwellings. + +During all this time the thermometer never fell lower than +9°, which +was on the 16th of May, and rose as high as +45°, at mid-day on the +29th. The last day of May was very stormy; but on the 1st of June the +weather changed for the better, although the thermometer was as low as ++12°. On this day the first geese (laughing geese) and some sandpipers +were seen, and one of each was shot. As the partridges were migrating +northward about thirty had been killed, and there was a good stock of +venison in store, the hunters having shot twenty deer. The does were now +very large with young, and had become very poor; the bucks were, +however, improving in condition. + +The Esquimaux had brought in little for trade, a few pairs of boots, +which were soon bought up by the men, and a little oil from Akkeeoulik +being the principal articles. Some of them were getting short of +provisions, not having been able to find a "cache" which they went for. +They had all behaved well, not having committed any thefts that could be +discovered. We had, however, one most incorrigible thief among our +party, Ouligbuck's son, who, during the few days of his fathers absence, +was twice caught with the old man's bale open, eating sugar; some +tobacco was also taken, and the trousers of most of the men were +completely cleared of buttons by the same hands. On my return only one +family of Esquimaux (Shimakuk's) remained near us. Shimakuk had been +waiting for his dogs, which were with the party who had gone in search +of meat. + +On the 13th divine service was read, and thanks returned to the Almighty +for His protection throughout the winter and during the late journey. + +There was a strong breeze of N. wind, with frequent showers of snow. +House very damp; the clay falling from the inside of the walls. + +14th.--The weather was fine and permitted us to get our flour, pemmican, +&c., removed from the meat store (which was now dropping much from the +roof) to the rocks, where it was well covered up with oilcloths. + +The 20th was a most stormy day with occasional showers--wind N.W. There +was a considerable stream of water running on the ice of North Pole +River, forming large pools on the sea-ice, through which it did not yet +find a free exit. + +21st.--There was a change in the weather for the better, although it +still blew a gale; however, as the day advanced the wind became more +moderate, and about noon shifted round to the south. + +The water was rising fast in all the creeks, showing that the process of +destruction was fast going on among the snow and ice. The latter was +still nearly four feet thick on the lakes, but very porous. + +The great rise of water in the creeks and small streams rendered it +very unpleasant and even dangerous to cross them. In attempting to get +near some geese this day I sunk to the waist amidst snow and water, and +not being able to get any firm footing, I found much difficulty in +scrambling out without wetting my gun. + +23rd.--This being a fine day, all the men were employed dismantling the +house and carrying down the provisions, clothes, &c. to the summer +tents, which had been pitched about 300 yards nearer the shore. Two +leather tents were put up for cooking in. We saw the sun at midnight, +his lower limb touching the high grounds to the northward. + +We made some bread in an oven which we had built of stones cemented with +clay of an excellent quality. The upper part of our first batch was well +baked, but the floor of the oven was not sufficiently warm to bake the +lower part. It however rose well, and we afterwards succeeded in making +excellent bread, though the oven was heated with heather.[4] + +15th July.--Weather still stormy and cold to the feelings, the +thermometer being +35°. The water of North Pole Lake had broken through +its barrier of snow and ice, and was rushing down the river with great +force, carrying with it large masses of ice. + +All the men except Flett, who remained at the tents, and Germain, who +had charge of the nets, went to North Pole Lake on the 19th to bring +down the boat. The river being one continued rapid throughout its whole +length, with not an eddy to stop in, they came down at rather a quick +rate, but were compelled to stop within a few hundred yards of the salt +water, on account of the shallowness and the number of stones. +Twenty-two salmon were caught, some in good condition, others very soft +and thin. The former contained roe about the eighth of an inch in +diameter. + +A number of Esquimaux arrived for the purpose of catching salmon, having +finished their seal hunting, which had been successful, although the +number killed could not be ascertained. Our old friends were accompanied +by three strangers, viz., an old man and two young ones, with their +wives and families. Our travelling companion Ivitchuk had shot some deer +with his gun, but having spent nearly all his ammunition, he requested +and obtained a small additional stock. + +Another Esquimaux, a jolly old fellow, with two wives, joined the party +here; he had come from the direction of Wager River this spring on the +ice. He and one or two more old men were nearly starved to death last +winter, being so much reduced that they could not walk. Twenty-three +salmon were got from the nets; some of these were in very poor +condition being evidently out of season; others were in fine order and +full of roe. + +22nd.--One of the old Esquimaux at the fishery speared a seal on the ice +near the edge of the open water, but it got away in consequence of the +line breaking. Their mode of approaching the seal requires much patience +and is very fatiguing, as the hunter must lie flat on his face or on his +side, and advance towards the seal by a series of motions resembling +those of the animal itself. He has frequently to proceed in this way +some hundred yards, but so well does he act his part that he can get +within a few feet of his object, and a looker-on would find much +difficulty in telling which was the man and which the seal. + +The seal actually comes to meet the hunter, who, as soon as it has got +some distance from its hole, springs up and intercepts its return. The +women are very expert at this mode of hunting, and frequently having no +spear, use a small club of wood with which they strike the seal on the +nose. + +The greater part of the Esquimaux were encamped about a quarter of a +mile from us, and had a _concert_ every night,--a union of the vocal and +the instrumental. Their only musical instrument is a sort of drum or +tambourine, consisting of a stout wooden hoop, about 30 inches in +diameter, round which, when it is to be used, a wet parchment deer skin +is stretched. In beating this rough instrument, the hoop, not the skin, +is struck. The performer being in the centre of the tent, keeps turning +slowly round, whilst four or five women add their voices to the +execrable sound, producing among them most horrible discord. Each of the +men in his turn takes up the drum and thumps away till he is tired, when +he lays it down and another takes his place, and so on it goes until it +has passed through the hands of all the males of the party, including +the boys. + +The whole of the natives, with the exception of a few old people who +were remaining at the fishing station, and three young men and their +wives, went the following day to an island four miles off for the +purpose of killing more seals, and also to put new covers on their canoe +frames. + +25th.--This was the anniversary of our arrival here last year; and +certainly everything wore a very different aspect from what it then did. +Last summer at this date there was no ice to be seen in Repulse Bay; the +snow had nearly all disappeared, and the various streams had shrunk to +their lowest level. _Now_ there was not a pool of water in the bay, +except where the entrance of a river or creek had worn away or broken up +the ice for a short distance. There was much snow on the ground in many +places, and most of the streams were still deep and rapid. + +The musquitoes were rather troublesome; but this I was not sorry for, as +the Esquimaux said that the ice in the bay would soon break up after +these tormentors made their appearance. + +As our native friends were now getting sufficient fish to maintain them, +they required no further assistance from us at present. Their mode of +catching salmon is a very simple one. They build a barrier of stones +about 1½ or 2 feet high across a creek, some distance below high-water +mark. The salmon, which keep close to the shore at this season, are by +this means, during the ebb of the tide, cut off from the sea, and are +easily speared. About sixty were thus killed this day. The spear used is +usually made of two diverging pieces of musk-ox horn, from 4 to 5 inches +apart at the extremities; between these there is a prong of bone about 3 +or 4 inches shorter than the outer ones. Each of the longer prongs is +furnished with a barb on its inner side, made of a bent nail or piece of +bone, which prevents the fish from escaping. The handle is 6 or 8 feet +long. The head of the instrument much resembles a three-pronged fork, +with the middle prong a little shorter than the others. + +The moon was full this day. High-water at 45 minutes past noon. Arkshuk, +Shimakuk, and Kei-ik-too-oo visited us on the 28th, bringing a few pairs +of boots for sale. The tins which contained preserved meat, and table +knives and forks, were in great demand among these good folks. One of +the ladies to whom I gave a fork, used it as neatly in eating fish as if +she had been accustomed to it from childhood. Thermometer as high as ++60° in the shade. + +The ice in the bay had broken up for more than a mile from the shore +opposite the mouth of the river, but some distance out it looked as +white and firm as ever. + +I had for some time observed that large stones, some of them of one or +two tons weight, were making their appearance on the ice; and I was much +puzzled to make out how they came there. They could not have fallen from +the shore, as the beach was sloping at the place, nor had they been +carried in by drift ice of the previous season. The only way that I +could account for it was this. At the commencement of winter the ice +layer acquiring considerable thickness, had become frozen to the stones +lying on the bottom, and raised them up when the tide came in. The +stones would get gradually enclosed in the ice as it grew thicker by +repeated freezings, whilst by the process of evaporation, which goes on +very rapidly in the spring, the upper surface was continually wasting +away, so that in June and July there was little of the first formed ice +remaining, and thus the stones which at first were on the under surface +of the ice appeared on the top. This may perhaps in some measure account +for boulders, sand, shells, &c. being sometimes found where geologists +fancy they ought not to be. Ice has been time out of mind the great +"conveyancer." + +August 1st.--We were visited this day by an Esquimaux named I-ik-tu-ang, +whom I had not before seen. He had passed the winter near the Ooglit +Islands, a few days' journey from Igloolik. He said that, when a boy, he +was frequently on board the Fury and Hecla in 1822-23, and that the +"Kabloonans" killed a number of walruses, and some black whales, with +two small boats; that the walruses were put in "cache" for them (the +Esquimaux), who were rather short of provisions at the time, and that +they received the _skins_ of the whales. They had abundance of +provisions last winter, but were visited by a very fatal disease--from +what I learnt of the symptoms, resembling influenza--which carried off +twenty-one grown-up persons. The children were not attacked with this +complaint. Two of the party at Igloolik had been reduced to the +necessity of putting to death and eating two children, to save +themselves from starvation. + +Four men, whilst hunting the sea-horse with their canoes lashed +together, were assaulted by this fierce animal, struck down with his +formidable tusks, their canoes capsized and broken, and the whole party +drowned. Another poor fellow having early in the winter harpooned a +walrus through a hole in the ice, was dragged into the water before he +could disengage himself from the line. The ice being still thin and +transparent, the body was found a few days after. + +I-ik-tu-ang also informed me--as I had already supposed from various +appearances--that there is open water throughout the winter between this +and the Frozen Strait, through which a strong current runs with the +flow and ebb of the tide,--so strong is it that when bears are pursued +and take the water, they are often swept under the ice and drowned. + +In the afternoon two more Esquimaux with their wives from the same +quarter, accompanied by Akkee-ou-lik and his family, made their +appearance. + +Some of the natives who had taken up their quarters near us were +supplied daily with fish. They appeared quite as indolent as most of the +other savage tribes of America, and never thought of looking out for +food, so long as they could get enough to support life from us. Although +they had a wear made for confining the salmon, they would not take the +trouble to spear them when in it. + +We endeavoured to get some young marmots, but without success. I find +that these curious little animals leave their winter habitations, which +are usually formed in dry sandy banks, as soon as the snow has in a +great measure disappeared, and take up their summer residence among the +rocks, where, I have no doubt, they are much safer from their numerous +enemies. + +The weather was still fine on the 6th, but it appeared to have little +effect on the ice in the bay, which still remained hard and fast. All +the largest and deepest lakes were covered with strong ice. + +9th.--On looking out this morning I was happy to see a lane of open +water stretching completely across the bay, but there was still a strong +barrier between us and the south point, although a passage to the +northward might easily have been made. The nets produced eighty salmon, +the greater part of which were given to the Esquimaux. The fishery was +now abandoned, as we could procure close at hand as many salmon as we +required. + +During the whole of our spring fishing Halkett's air-boat was used for +setting and examining the nets, and was preferred by the fishermen to +the large canvas canoe, as it was much lighter, and passed over and +round the nets with more facility. Notwithstanding its continued use on +a rocky shore, it never required the slightest repair. It is altogether +a most useful little vessel, and, as I have said before, ought to form +part of the equipment of all surveying parties, whether by land or sea. + +The men from the fishery were followed soon after by the Esquimaux with +their baggage, which it took more than a dozen trips of our canoe to +ferry over. + +The large lakes were still covered with a thick coat of ice. There were +a great many seals in the open water, and some of the fish in the nets +had been eaten by them. + +10th.--A storm from the north with rain and snow until noon, when the +wind somewhat abated, and the weather cleared up. Great havoc was made +among the ice, and in the evening there was a clear sea as far as the +point of the bay. + +11th.--There was a gale of wind all day with rain occasionally--the +weather cold and unpleasant. We were all busily employed in preparing +for sea. All the snow-banks for six or eight feet from the ground having +been converted into solid ice soon after the spring thaw commenced, we +had to dig out the chain and anchor of one of the boats, which were +buried under ice of that thickness; yet on the very spot where this +chain and anchor lay, there was not a particle of either ice or snow on +the 25th July last year; such is the variable nature of this northern +climate. + +In the afternoon Nibitabo was sent to endeavour to get some fresh +venison for our voyage, and shot two young deer; St. Germain and Mineau +set the nets for a supply of salmon, and I was busy distributing among +the Esquimaux axes, files, knives, scissors, &c. &c. &c. + +The large lakes were still covered with ice, but in the bay there was +little or none to be seen. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[4] Receipt.--Seven lbs. flour, 1 oz. carbonate soda, ¾ oz. citric +acid, ¾ oz. common salt, water (cold), about ½ gallon. The salt, +soda, and acid being finely powdered and dry, are to be well mixed +together; this mixture being well wrought up with the dry flour, the +water is to be added in 2 or 3 parts and mingled with the flour as +quickly as possible; the dough being put into pans is immediately to be +placed in the oven. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + Voyage from Repulse Bay to York Factory. + + +Having got every thing ready, the boat launched and loaded about 2 +o'clock P.M. on the 12th of August, I was about to distribute our spare +kettles, some hoop iron, &c. among the Esquimaux, when the compass of +one of the boats was missing. Search was made, but no compass was to be +found. At last I thought of turning over some heather that lay close to +where my tent had been, and there discovered it. It had been concealed +by one of the Esquimaux women--a widow--to whom more presents had been +made than to any of the others. + +Some of the most decent of the men appeared really sorry at parting, and +waded into the water to shake hands with me. + +We got under weigh with a light air of wind from the N.E. at 25 minutes +past 2. Our progress was very slow, there being frequent calms, so that, +between pulling and sailing, we reached only to within five miles of +Cape Hope at 4 A.M. of the 13th. A large black whale and some white +ones, with innumerable seals, were seen. Thermometer at +65; but it +became much colder after the wind came from sea. During the night we +sailed among loose ice. As it was still calm we anchored at half-past 4 +A.M. to wait for the other boat, which was some miles astern, to re-stow +the cargo and cook breakfast. Thermometer at 5 A.M. +48°. + +At half-past 6 we began pulling along shore. An hour afterwards a light +breeze sprung up, but still ahead. The breeze becoming stronger, we +hoisted sail and turned to windward, and would have made good progress +had it kept steady; instead of which it followed or rather preceded the +sun in his course westward, and thus headed us at every point we +weathered. The flood-tide assisted us until 4 P.M., when we put ashore, +as the ebb was too strong for us. Shot a young Arctic hare. There is a +number of long narrow lakes near the point we stopped at, which is +formed of grey and red granite and gneiss, and is about five miles from +the S.E. point of Repulse Bay. Caught three species of marine insects +with fins, which they use like wings: preserved specimens of them. Every +appearance of rain this evening. Thermometer +65° at 8 P.M. + +14th. The wind shifted to the N.N.W. at half-past 9 last night, when we +immediately got under weigh and sailed cautiously along shore, examining +every bay and inlet when I supposed us near the northern outlet of +Wager River, but not a trace of it was to be seen. If it exists, I think +it not likely that it should have escaped our notice twice. The wind was +for a few hours variable and squally; but it now shifted to N.E. by N. +and blew hard. In crossing Wager River Bay, eight or ten miles from +shore, there was a very heavy cross sea, which washed over our gunwales +occasionally. On nearing the shore the run of the sea became more +regular; but the wind increased so as to make it necessary to reef +sails. The weather assuming a very threatening appearance, and the +navigation being intricate and dangerous, we were forced to seek a +harbour, which, after some difficulty, we found in a small bay at 8 +P.M., having run from ninety to ninety-five miles, seventy-three of +which were measured by Massey's patent log. Two white bears and many +walruses were seen on a small island near Whale Island; but the weather +was too stormy to permit us to pursue them. + +It had been my intention to cross over to Southampton Island and trace +that portion of the coast from Port Harding southward which had not yet +been surveyed; but a stream of ice and the state of the weather +prevented my doing so, nor did I think it an object of sufficient +importance to detain the expedition a day or two for that sole purpose. +Thermometer about +41° all day. + +The male eider and king ducks appeared to have left this coast already, +there being none but females seen. Our boat took the ground about half +ebb--a fine bottom of sand and mud. + +15th.--It blew a complete gale all night and during the greater part of +this day. The sky, however, was sufficiently clear to allow me to obtain +a meridian observation for latitude and variation. The former was found +to be 64° 49' 06" N.--the latter 41° 27' W. Thermometer +46°. + +The wind began to fall in the evening, and the tide having come in so as +to float the boats, we started at 4 P.M. under reefed sails. The sea was +still running high, but it was long and regular; and as there was every +appearance of fine weather, I determined to sail all night, keeping a +sharp look-out ahead for shoals, reefs, and islets. There was a heavy +swell all night which broke with great violence on the reefs; and it +being very dark, both boats were once or twice nearly filled by getting +into shallow water before we were aware of it. + +16th.--At half-past 5 this morning we were opposite Cape Fullerton, and +at 6 Massey's log was examined, when it indicated a run of seventy-two +miles. At 9 A.M. it fell calm. Thermometer +43°. An hour afterwards +there was a light breeze from S.W., with which we turned to windward +among numerous rocky islands. + +At noon the latitude, 63° 56' 13" N., was observed, and shortly +afterwards two Esquimaux were seen coming off in their kayaks, paddling +at a great rate; but the breeze had now freshened, and it would have +given them hard work to overtake us had we not shortened sail, and +afterwards landed on an island, where we waited for them. Three more +joined us there. They were very dirty, and far inferior in every respect +to our friends of Repulse Bay. One of them was about five feet eight +inches high, had a formidable beard and moustache, and was better +looking than the others. After making them some presents we shoved off, +and stood across the bay to the westward of Cape Fullerton. This bay is +much deeper than it is laid down in the chart, and is crowded with +islands. + +It was near high water when we reached the main shore, and as we could +make no progress against wind and tide, we put into a safe harbour. +Nothing was to be seen for a mile or two inland but rocks, clothed in +some spots with moss or grass. Deer were observed, and a young one shot +by Nibitabo. + +About an hour after our landing the wind shifted to W.N.W., and, as I +was afraid of getting aground in our present berth, the boats were moved +to a more open situation from which they could start at any time of +tide. + +The Esquimaux could tell us nothing about Churchill, none of them having +visited that place either this or the previous summer. Thermometer at 9 +P.M. +53. + +17th.--We were under weigh at 2 A.M., but the wind was both light and +close, so that our progress was slow. Before the tide changed it came +more from the southward; we were therefore obliged to anchor as soon as +it began to ebb. The latitude of our harbour was 63° 47' 33" N. Var. 31° +8' W. The rocks, like those where we landed last night, were grey +granite and gneiss. Thermometer at noon +60°. A large black whale was +seen this morning. + +At half-past 1 P.M. the tide began to flow, and at two we were under +sail, the wind having gone round to the northward, so as to permit us to +lie our course along shore. A succession of reefs lines the coast, which +is itself very irregular in its outline, being indented with numberless +inlets, some of them running many miles inland. + +The tide began to ebb at 8 P.M., and as the wind had fallen and headed +us, we ran in shore and cast anchor under the shelter of some rocks. It +was just getting dark when a fresh breeze of fair wind sprung up. This +was annoying enough. At 10 o'clock nine Esquimaux visited us, but staid +only a short time, as we were to stop near their tents in the morning. +Two of them said they would sleep on the rocks near us, with the +intention of pointing out the deepest channel when we should resume our +voyage. + +18th.--We started at daylight this morning, but the fair wind, which had +continued all night, soon failed us. Aided by the flood-tide, however, +an hour's rowing brought us to the encampment of our last night's +visitors, who welcomed us with much noise, and soon brought to the beach +a number of furs and other articles for trade. They were very easy to +deal with, apparently putting implicit confidence in our honesty; nor +were they losers by this conduct. Ammunition was the article chiefly in +demand, as they had two guns among the party. Files, knives, +fire-steels, &c. were distributed among the men, and beads, needles, +buttons, &c. among the women. One of the women was rather good-looking, +but they were all much darker than the natives of Repulse Bay. They were +well provided with food, as they had a large seal lying on the rocks, +besides venison. It was still calm when we left them, but favoured by +the ebb-tide we pulled out of the inlet, and shaped our course towards +Chesterfield Inlet, which we crossed with the last of the flood. The day +was beautiful--far too much so--and the few light airs of wind were all +against us. We landed in a small cove on the south side of the inlet to +pick up a deer that was shot from the boat. Four more deer were killed, +but all in poor condition. + +About two miles to the northward of the inlet I obtained a meridian +observation of the sun in the natural horizon, which gave latitude 63° +32' 00" N. Thermometer at noon +65°, and in the evening +70°. The +musquitoes were very numerous and troublesome. Numbers of turnstones +(_Tringa interpres_) were seen. + +19th.--There was a fine breeze again all last night, which died away at +daylight. As soon as the flood-tide began to come in, we started with a +light wind fair enough to allow us to lie our course along shore for a +few miles. It again fell calm, when we took to the oars and landed on a +point five miles to the southward of our last night's harbour, where we +breakfasted at 9 A.M. + +Dovekies in countless numbers were sitting on the stones, and swimming +along the shore;[5] one or two pintailed and mallard ducks were seen on +a lake a few hundred yards inland--the first we have seen since passing +Nevill's Bay last year. Some dovekies' eggs were found with the birds +formed in them. + +Having obtained a meridian observation of the sun, which gave for the +latitude 63° 17' 00" N., and variation 9° 21' W., we got under weigh and +beat to windward with the last of the ebb, which here ran to the south. +There was a fine breeze, but we made only about five miles southing, +when at 6 P.M. the flood setting in strong against us, we put ashore +for the night under the lee of the point. It was not easy to find a +harbour, all the coast from Chesterfield Inlet being flat and stony, and +lined with shoals. A young buck was shot, but it was in poor condition. +Thermometer at noon +63°--at 8 P.M. +57°. Some of the copper came off +our boat to-day and stopped her way before it was observed. + +20th.--We were under weigh this morning by daylight, but the wind was +right ahead and blowing fresh. Some more copper came off the boat, and +she was evidently out of trim, as the Magnet went fast to windward of +us. She had become leaky also, and therefore I determined to lay her +aground as soon as the tide turned. + +We had gained between six and seven miles, when, finding that we made +but slow progress, I put on shore at the first place that offered +shelter, a little before noon. Several deer were seen, and a large buck +shot, which I was surprised to find very lean. At this season, near +Repulse Bay they are in fine condition. Thermometer at noon +61°. At +half-past 2 the wind changed to W.N.W., but it blew a gale before the +tide flowed sufficiently to float us. We could do nothing but haul out +into deeper water, to be ready by dawn next morning. + +Some pintails, mallards, and Hutchins and laughing geese were seen here; +also a brood of well-grown young king-ducks in a small lake at some +distance from the sea, with which it had no connection. + +Just as our boats floated, the wind became more moderate; and as we had +still an hour and a half of daylight, we sailed along the coast for 4½ +miles, being forced to keep some miles from shore to avoid shoals. Soon +after sunset we ran into a bay for shelter during the night. In doing so +we grazed some ridges of stones, but found good anchorage in four +fathoms water. Thermometer +47°. + +21st.--Thermometer +44°. There was a strong breeze with heavy squalls +from the north all night. On starting at daylight and making for the +only outlet that appeared, we found it too shallow, and so were forced +to wait the flow of the tide. The wind was W. by N., but gradually +shifted round against us and became very light. We managed, however, to +reach an island near the north point of Rankin's Inlet. + +Although there was a fine breeze, it being right ahead, nothing was to +be gained against the ebb tide. + +We found many old signs of Esquimaux visits to the island. Among other +articles picked up were an ivory snow-knife, a drill for producing fire, +and an iron drill; also some vertebræ of a whale measuring ten inches in +diameter. There were numerous graves of Esquimaux here, with spears, +lances, &c. deposited beside them. Most of these articles were old and +much corroded with rust, but a very excellent seal-spear head had been +placed there this spring. Thermometer at noon +52°; 8 P.M. +47°. +Temperature of water +41°. + +22nd.--Thermometer +42°. At a little before 5 this morning the wind +shifted to S.S.E. We set out to cross Rankin's Inlet, although we could +not lie our course, and after five hours' sailing reached an island near +the south shore, where we landed, as the breeze had increased to a gale +and gone more to the southward, with a heavy sea, which washed over us +occasionally. We here picked up some specimens of copper ore, but the +ore did not appear to be abundant. + +The aurora was very bright last night. It appeared first to the S.S.E., +moved rapidly northward, spreading all over the sky, and finally +disappearing in the north. This agrees with what Wrangel asserts, "that +the aurora is affected by the wind in the same way as clouds are." Heavy +rain and a strong gale from noon until 8 P.M. Temperature of water +42°; +air +43°. + +23rd.--The wind was right ahead but light this morning. We got under +weigh and beat to windward some miles, alternately sailing and pulling +until we reached the north point of Corbett's Inlet. We were here +visited by eighteen Esquimaux in their kayaks. All the news they could +give us was that one of Ouligbuck's sons had passed the winter near +this place, and that he had walked to Churchill in the winter, where all +were then well. A brisk trade was soon opened; the articles in greatest +request being powder and ball. Some fox and wolf skins were received; +but before they had brought out the half of their stock, the wind +changed from S.W. to N.W. by W. and blew a gale, which soon raised a sea +that washed over the canoes alongside. Being anxious to take advantage +of the fair wind to cross Corbett's Inlet before dark, after making our +friends presents of various articles, we set sail and ran across the +inlet, encountering a heavy sea caused by a swell from the south meeting +the waves raised by the present gale. We were three hours crossing to +the south point of the inlet, off which lie some dangerous reefs five or +six miles from land. The wind was very close as we turned the point; and +after gaining six miles further, we were forced to make a number of +tacks before getting into a harbour, which proved to be an excellent +one, land-locked on all sides. Little soil was to be seen on the rocks, +which were of granite. We had shipped a good deal of water, and it was +past 9 P.M. when we got under shelter. Thermometer +45°. Hundreds of +grey phalaropes were seen, supposed to be Phalaropus fulicarius. + +24th.--It blew so hard this morning that we could not start until 8 +o'clock. The wind after that moderated gradually, and latterly fell +calm. By rowing we arrived at the S.E. end of the island[6] near Whale +Cove, where we were visited by a party of natives, who brought off some +furs and boots for trade. A breeze from S.S.E. sprung up about 1 +o'clock, with which we turned to windward through a narrow channel +between a small island and the main. When we reached the open sea the +wind was too much ahead for us to advance against the ebb tide, and as a +convenient harbour offered itself, we anchored for the night. Our +latitude at noon was 62° 13' 19"; after which we advanced about four +miles to the southward. Ouligbuck told us that, when a little boy about +seven years old, he visited this place with his parents, and went out to +Sea-Horse Island on the ice to hunt the animals from which it takes its +name. Three large black whales were seen to-day. Thermometer +46°, +53°, +and +42°. + +I was much pleased to observe that the nearer we approached to +Churchill, the more confidence the Esquimaux placed in us. They fixed no +price for their goods, but threw them on board the boat, and left it to +me to pay them what I pleased. This confidential mode of dealing, which +is not in keeping with the habits of the Esquimaux tribes, at least +shows that they are satisfied with the treatment they receive at +Churchill. To the Hudson's Bay Company, indeed, they have much reason to +be grateful for having, by their influence, at last created a friendly +feeling between them and the Chipewyans, with whom they used to be at +constant and deadly enmity. + +25th.--There was heavy rain all last night, which continued until +between 9 and 10 o'clock this morning. We then got under weigh with the +first of the flood, but it fell calm. We rowed for fourteen or fifteen +miles, the rain pouring all the time. A fine breeze from N. by E. sprung +up at 4 P.M., before which we ran direct for the passage between Sir +Bibye's Islands; but finding the water become very shallow, and learning +from Ouligbuck that there was not water enough for boats except at full +tide, we kept outside the islands altogether. We reached the main land a +little after sunset at the south point of Nevill's Bay, and ran for +shelter into a small inlet separated on the south by a narrow point from +a deep river, to which the Esquimaux resort to catch salmon. Thermometer ++37° and +41°. As the moon was full, I at first intended running on all +night, but the threatening look of the weather deterred me. + +26th.--Last night, about an hour after casting anchor, the moon became +overcast, and it blew a perfect gale. On landing this morning we found a +quantity of wood, a large sledge 30 feet long, and some slender pieces +of wood fastened together to the length of 40 feet. There were two of +these poles, which are used by the natives for spearing small seals. It +is said that, in Davis' Straits, the Esquimaux use poles of the same +kind for spearing whales. + +As the bay in which we were lying was not very safe should the wind +change, we got under weigh and turned into the mouth of the river under +close-reefed sails. The boats shipped much water, particularly the +Magnet, keeping a man constantly baling. We at last got under the lee of +a point where there was a sandy bottom, but not water enough to float +the boats at low tide. The river is about a mile broad, and deep enough +in the middle for a vessel drawing 12 or 14 feet water. + +We saw a number of whalebone snares set along the edges of the lakes for +geese, large flocks of which were feeding about, but very shy. There was +a storm from N.N.W. all the afternoon with heavy rain. Thermometer +36°. + +27th.--It felt very cold this morning; the thermometer was at the +freezing point, and there was some snow. The storm had continued all +night with increasing strength, but towards day-light the weather became +more moderate, so that about 9 o'clock we were able to start under +reefed sails. The breeze gradually died away and went round to the S.W., +and it finally became calm. Heavy rain and sleet began to fall; the wind +veered round to the S.E., so that we could lie our course, and make good +progress with the flood. + +At 6 P.M. we reached a bay a few miles north of Knapp's Bay, which I had +not noticed on our outward voyage, and which is not laid down on the +charts. It is about ten miles wide and eight deep; the water in it is +very shallow, no where exceeding ten feet; and as it was within an hour +or two of high water, the greater part of it must be dry when the tide +is out. + +Numbers of Brent geese were feeding in all directions on a marine plant +(_zostera marina_, Linn.) which grows here in great abundance. + +We anchored under the lee of an islet in Knapp's Bay, a very small +portion of which was visible at high water. Thermometer +38°. + +28th.--We were under weigh at day-light this morning, with a strong +breeze of north-west wind, which made us close-reef our sails. There was +a heavy sea in Knapp's Bay. At 8 A.M. we passed to the westward of the +island, under which we found shelter during the gale of the 8th of July +last. The wind was cold, with occasional showers of rain. Great numbers +of geese were seen passing to the southward. In the evening the wind +became more moderate and finally calm. Our water-kegs being empty, I ran +inshore a little before sunset, and entered Egg River, in which we found +a safe harbour. This river discharges a considerable body of water into +the sea by five mouths, separated by four islets. There is no island +lying opposite to its mouth, as represented in the charts. Thermometer +from +35° to +40°. + +29th.--The boat lay afloat all the night, which was fine but dark. +There was not a breath of wind until 7 o'clock. An hour after starting, +a moderate breeze sprung up from W. by N., but soon became light and +variable, and at last it fell calm a short time before sunset, when, +having gained about 40 miles, we pulled into a small bay, which afforded +us good shelter. The day was fine throughout, with occasional light +showers of rain. Thermometer from +45° to +52°. + +The sky was too much overcast for me to obtain any observation, but it +appears to me that Egg River is laid down in the charts about 12 miles +too far to the southward, and Egg Island is 12 miles south of the river +instead of being near its mouth, as there represented. + +30th.--We had 13 feet water last night when the tide was in, but it was +not until the flood had made two hours that we floated. The night was as +fine as the last and calm. There was a light air of west wind when we +got under weigh, with which and the flood-tide we slipped alongshore +pretty fast. In an hour or two the wind began to fly about from all +points, with calms between, so that even with the help of our oars we +only made 22 miles; and not being able to reach Seal River, we ran into +a small bay--the only spot that appeared clear of stones for some +miles--about 12 miles north of it. Here abundance of drift wood was +found, with which the men lighted fires sufficiently large for the +coldest winter night. The evening was very warm, and the musquitoes +were troublesome. The country inland is well wooded. Great numbers of +mallard, teal, pintails, and long-tailed ducks were seen, but only two +or three were shot. + +31st.--Left our harbour as soon as the tide permitted, which was at 7 +A.M. A light but fair breeze from N. by W. gradually increased, so that +we made a fine run across Button's Bay, which is as full of rocks and +shoals as represented in the charts, and entering Churchill River a few +minutes after 1 P.M., landed in a small cove a few hundred yards above +the Old Fort. + +On visiting the Company's establishment, I found that Mr. Sinclair was +absent at York Factory; but I was very kindly received by Mrs. Sinclair, +and liberally supplied with everything we required for the continuation +of our voyage. As we had carried away our bowsprit, Turner was set to +make a new one. + +I received many letters from much valued friends, and after remaining +for a few hours, returned to the boats at 9 P.M. in order to be prepared +for starting early in the morning, should wind and weather prove +favourable. The stock of provisions on hand was eight bags of pemmican +and four cwt. of flour. We left Ouligbuck and his son at Churchill. + +3rd September.--For the last two days the wind had been fair, but +blowing a gale, with such a heavy sea that we could not proceed. The +weather was so cloudy that I could obtain no observations; I therefore +employed most of my time in shooting Esquimaux curlews, which were so +abundant near the Old Fort that I bagged seven brace in a few hours. + +This morning the wind shifted more to the westward, and becoming more +moderate, we got under weigh at 9 A.M. There was still a heavy swell +outside and at the entrance of our little harbour. Whilst coming out in +the dawn of the morning three seas came rolling in one after the other, +and broke completely over the bows of the boat, washing her from stem to +stern. I thought she would have filled, but we got into deep water +before any more seas caught her. The Magnet was even more roughly +handled in following us, having shipped much water and struck heavily on +the rocks--fortunately without damage. The wind died away, and during +the morning shifted to south. We, however, reached Cape Churchill, and +at 8 P.M. cast anchor under its lee, exactly opposite an old stranded +boat. + +4th.--We had a breeze from S.W. by S. to-day, which enabled us to get +along the coast sixteen or eighteen miles during the flood. It blew so +hard in the afternoon that we required to double-reef our sails. The +weather was very warm, the thermometer being as high as +60° in the +shade. A Canada nuthatch (_sitta Canadensis_) flew on board to-day, and +was very nearly caught. There were a good many ducks and geese near the +place where we landed to get fresh water. Between thirty and forty of +the former and two of the latter were shot. The boats were allowed to +take the ground, after two hours' ebb, on a fine shingle beach, on which +a considerable surf was breaking. + +5th.--It was calm all night. At 3 this morning the boat floated, and we +pushed out a short distance from shore to be ready for the first fair +wind. At half-past seven a light air sprung up from N.E., but did not +increase till past noon, when there was a fine breeze. A meridian +observation of the sun gave latitude 58° 26' 14" N. At 5 P.M. we were +opposite the mouth of Broad River, latitude 58° 7' 0" N. Thermometer at +noon +56°. + +6th.--We were under weigh this morning a little before daylight with the +wind from N.E. The weather was so thick that we could not see more than +a hundred yards ahead. We, however, ran on by soundings until I thought +we were near North River, and then kept inshore until we got sight of +land, which proved to be close to Nelson River, across which we stood, +directing our course by compass, and coming in directly opposite the +beacon. We arrived at York Factory between 9 and 10 o'clock, P.M. and +were warmly welcomed by our friends, who had not expected to see us +until next summer. + +In justice to the men under me, let me here express my thanks for their +continued good conduct under circumstances sometimes sufficiently +trying;--in fact, a better set of fellows it would be difficult to find +anywhere. + +As to their appearance when we arrived at York Factory, I may adopt the +words of Corporal M'Laren in charge of the Sappers and Miners who are to +accompany Sir John Richardson,--"By George, I never saw such a set of +men." + +FOOTNOTES: + +[5] The dovekie, or black guillemot (_Uria grylle_), breeds in great +numbers in the Orkney islands. I believe ornithologists are mistaken in +supposing that this bird becomes white or rather grey during the winter. +It is only the young birds that are so; the old ones are seen in winter +without any change in the colour of their summer plumage. + +[6] This place is laid down on the chart as an island, but is a +peninsula according to the account we received from the Esquimaux. + + + + + APPENDIX. + + + LIST OF MAMMALIA, + + _Collected during Mr. Rae's Expedition, with Observations by J. + E. Gray, Esq., F.R.S. &c._ + +1. _Mus Musculus._ Linn. York Factory. Probably introduced from Europe. + +2. _Arctomys Parryi._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. p. 158, tab. 10. + +3. _Lepus Glacialis._ Leach. Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. 221. + +MYODES.--The specimens brought by the expedition have enabled me + to make some corrections in the characters assigned to these + species. I may observe that the large size or peculiar form of + the claws which has been regarded as a character of the species, + appears to be peculiar to one sex--probably the males. + +1. _The upper cutting teeth narrow, smooth without any + longitudinal groove. Thumb with a compressed curved acute claw._ + (Lemnus). + +_Myodes, Lemnus Pallas._ Glires 77 of Sweden. + +_Myodes Helvolus._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. p. 128, belong + to this section. All the museum specimens of these species have + small, simple, curved, acute claws. + +4. _Myodes Hudsonius._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. 132. + +Grey, black washed beneath white, sides reddish, sides of the + neck red, nose with a central black streak, claws of male(?) + very large, compressed, equal, broad to the end, and notched; of + female small, acute. In winter with very long black white-tipped + hairs. Mr. Rae brought home two males, one in winter and one in + change fur, and two females in summer fur. + +5. _Myodes Greenlandicus._ + +Reddish-grey, brown, black varied, back with a longitudinal + black streak, beneath grey brown, chest, nape, and sides + ruffous. Front claw of males(?) compressed, curved, the under + surface (especially of the middle one) with a broad, round, + expanded tubercle. I have not seen this species showing any + change in its winter fur. + +2. _Upper cutting teeth broader, with a central longitudinal + groove. The claw of the front thumb strap-shaped, truncated, and + notched at the tip._ + +6. _Myodes Helvolus._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. 128. (female?) + +Fur very long, black, grey-brown; black grizzled, hinder part of + the body reddish, beneath grey, sides yellowish. Claws of the + fore feet (of the males?) large, thick, rounded, curved, bluntly + truncated at the tip; of the female compressed, curved, acute. + +7. _Myodes Trimuconatus._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. 130. + +Bright red brown, head blackish-grey, sides and beneath pale + ruffous, chin white, claws moderate, compressed. This species is + best distinguished from the former by its larger size and the + great brightness of the colour, and the fur being much shorter + and less fluffy. + + + LIST OF THE SPECIES OF BIRDS + + _Collected by Mr. Rae during his late Expedition, named + according to the "Fauna Boreali-Americana," by G. R. Gray, Esq., + F.L.S._ + +FALCONIDÆ. + + Aquila (Pandion) haliæeta. + Falco peregrinus. + " islandicus. + Accipiter (Astur) palumbarius. + Buteo lagopus. + " (Circus) cyaneus. + +STRIGIDÆ. + + Strix brachyota. + " funerea. + " Tengmalmi. + +JANIADÆ. + + Tyrannula pusilla. + +MERULIDÆ. + + Merula solitaria. + +SYLVIADÆ. + + Sylvicola æstiva. + " coronata. + " striata. + " (Vermivora) rubricapilla. + " " peregrina. + Seiurus aquaticus. + Anthus aquaticus. + +FRINGILLIDÆ. + + Alauda cornuta. + Emberiza (Plectrophanes) nivalis. + " " lapponica. + " " picta. + " canadensis. + " (Zonotrichia) leucophrys. + " " pennsylvanica. + " " iliaca. + Fringilla hyemalis. + Pyrrhula (Corythus) enucleator. + Logia leucoptera. + Linaria minor. + +STURNIDÆ. + + Quiscalus versicolor. + Scolecophagus ferrugineus. + +CORVIDÆ. + + Garrulus canadensis. + +PICIDÆ. + + Picus (Apternus) tridactylus. + Colaptes auratus. + +RASORES. + + Tetrao canadensis. + " (Lagopus) mutus. + " " saliceti. + " (Centrocercus) phasianellus. + +GRALLATORES. + + Calidris arenaria. + Charadrius semipalmata. + + Vanellus melanogaster. + Strepsilas interpres. + Tringa Douglassii. + " maritima. + " alpina. + " Schinzii. + " pusilla. + " cinerea. + Totanus flavipes. + " macularius. + Limosa hudsonica. + Scolopax Wilsoni. + Phalaropus hyperboreus. + " fulicarius. + +NATATORES. + + Podiceps cornutus. + Larus argentatoides. + Lestris pomarina. + " parasitica. + " Richardsoni. + Anas (Boschas) crecca, var. + " " discors. + Somateria spectabilis. + " mollissima. + Oidemia perspicillata. + " americana. + Harelda glacialis. + Mergus serrator. + Anser albifrons. + " hyperboreus. + " Hutchinsii. + " bernicla. + Colymbus arcticus. + " septentrionalis. + + Myiodioctes pusilla. + Regulus calendula. + Sitta canadensis. + Linaria borealis. + Tringa rufescens. + " pectoralis. + Totanus solitarius. + + + FISHES, + + _Collected during Mr. Rae's Expedition. By J. E. Gray, Esq., + F.R.S._ + +GADIDÆ. + + _Lota Maculosus._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. iii. 248. Male + and female. + +ESOCIDÆ. + + _Esox. Lucius._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. iii. 124. Female. + +CYPRINIDÆ. + + _Catastomus Forsterianus?_ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. iii. + 116. Female. Lakes near York Factory. The "Red Sucker." + + _Catastomus Hudsonius._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. iii. 112. + River near York Factory. "The Grey Sucker." + +SALMONIDÆ. + + _Salmo. Salar??_ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. 145. Repulse Bay. + + _Salmo Hoodii._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. iii. 173, t. 82, f. + 2, t. 83, f. 2, t. 87, f. 1. Male and female. Lakes near York + Factory. + + _Salmo Coregonus Albus._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. 195. t. + 89, f. 2, a. b. Male. The Attihawmeg. Lower jaw shortest; ridge + behind the eye becoming close to the orbit beneath the eye. + + _Salmo (Coregonus) Tullibee._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. 201. + Lakes near York Factory. "The Tullibee." Lower jaw shortest, + ridge behind continued distant from the orbit and produced + towards the nostrils. + + _Salmo Coregonus Harengus?_ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. 210. t. + 90, f. 2, a. b. Lower jaw longest, ridge behind the eyes + becoming rather nearer to, but distinct from, the orbit beneath. + River near York Factory. + + + PLANTS, + + _Named by_ SIR W. J. HOOKER, K.H., D.C.L., F.R.A. & L.S. &c. &c. &c. + + + _Plants collected on the Coast between YORK FACTORY and CHURCHILL, + and in the neighbourhood of Churchill._ + + + DICOTYLEDONES. + +RANUNCULACEÆ, _Juss._ + + 1. Anemone _Richardsoni_, Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. 6, Tab. 4, A. + + 2. Ranunculus _Lapponicus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 16. + +CRUCIFERÆ, _Juss._ + + 3. Nasturtium _palustre_, De Cand.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 39. + + 4. Arabis _petræa_, Lam.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 42. + + 5. Cardamine _pratensis_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 45. + + 6. Draba _hirta_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 52. + + 7. Draba _alpina_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 50. + +CARYOPHYLLEÆ, _Juss._ + + 8. Stellaria _Edwardsii_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 96, Tab. + 31. + + 9. Cerastium _alpinum_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 104. + + 10. Silene _acaulis_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 87. + + 11. Arenaria _peploides_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 102. + +LEGUMINOSÆ, _Juss._ + + 12. Phaca _astragalina_, De Cand.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 145. + + 13. Oxytropis _campestris_, De Cand.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 147. + + 14. Oxytropis _deflexa_, De Cand.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 148. + + 15. Hedysarum _Mackenzii_, Rich.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 155. + +ROSACEÆ, _Juss._ + + 16. Dryas _integrifolia_, Vahl.--Hook. Ex. Fl. Tab. 200, Fl. + Bor. Am. i. p. 174. + + 17. Rubus _acaulis_, Mich.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 182. + + 18. Potentilla _anserina_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 189. + + 19. Potentilla _pulchella_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 191. + + 20. Potentilla _nivea_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 195. + +ONAGRARIEÆ, _Juss._ + + 21. Epilobium _latifolium_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 205. + +SAXIFRAGEÆ, _Juss._ + + 22. Saxifraga _oppositifolia_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 242. + + 23. Saxifraga _cæspitosa_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 244. + + 24. Saxifraga _Hirculus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 252. + + 25. Saxifraga _tricuspidata_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 254. + +COMPOSITÆ, _Juss._ + + 26. Nardosmia _corymbosa_, Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 307 + (Tussilago corymbosa, Br.) + + 27. Achillæa _millefolium_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 318. + + 28. Chrysanthemum _arcticum_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 319. + + 29. Pyrethrum _inodorum_, Sm.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 320. + + 30. Senecio _aureus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 333. var. nanus. + + 31. Arnica _montana_, L.--[Greek: b]. _angustifolia_, Hook. Fl. + Bor. Am. i. p. 330. + +CAMPANULACEÆ, _Juss._ + + 32. Campanula _uniflora_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 29. + +ERICEÆ, _L._ + + 33. Ledum _palustre_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 44.--var. + [Greek: a]. _angustifolium_; and var. [Greek: b]. _latifolium_. + + 34. Azalea _procumbens_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 44. + + 35. Rhododendron _Lapponicum_, Wahl.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 43. + + 36. Vaccinium _Vitis Idæa_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 34. + +MONOTROPEÆ, _Nutt._ + + 37. Pyrola _rotundifolia_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 46. + +BORAGINEÆ, _Juss._ + + 38. Lithospermum _maritimum_, Lehm.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. + 86. + +SCHOPHULARINEÆ, _Juss._ + + 39. Castilleja _pallida_, Benth.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 105. + + 40. Bartsia _alpina_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 106. + + 41. Pedicularis _Wlassoviana_, Stev.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 107. + + 42. Pedicularis _Lapponica_, L.--Hook. Fl. Am. ii. p. 108. + + 43. Pedicularis _Sudetica_, Willd.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 109. + + 44. Pedicularis _flammea_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 110. + + 45. Pedicularis _euphrasioides_, Stev.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. + p. 108. + +PRIMULACEÆ, _Juss._ + + 46. Androsace _septentrionalis_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 119. + + 47. Primula _Hornemanniana_, Lehm.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 120. + +POLYGONEÆ, _Juss._ + + 48. Polygonum _viviparum_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 130. + +AMENTACEÆ, _Juss._ + + 49. Salix _Richardsoni_, Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 147, Tab. 182. + + 50. Salix _vestita_, Ph.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 152. + + 51. Salix _Arctica_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 152. + + 52. Betula _glandulosa_, Mx.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 156. + + 53. Betula _nana_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 156. + + + MONOCOTYLEDONES. + +MELANTHACEÆ, _Br._ + + 54. Tofieldia _palustris_, Huds.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 179. + +ORCHIDEÆ, _Juss._ + + 55. Platanthera _obtusata_, Lindl.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. + 196, Tab. 199. + + 56. Platanthera _rotundifolia_, Lindl.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. + p. 200, Tab. 201. + +CYPERACEÆ, _Juss._ + + 57. Carex _dioica_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 208. + + 58. Carex _fuliginosa_, Sternb. and Hoppe.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. + ii. p. 224. + + 59. Eriophorum _capitatum_, Host.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 231. + + 60. Eriophorum _polystachyon_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 231. + + + _Collected between CHURCHILL and REPULSE BAY._ + + + DICOTYLEDONES. + +RANUNCULACEÆ, _Juss._ + + 1. Ranunculus _affinis_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 12, Tab. 6 A. + +PAPAVERACEÆ, _Juss._ + + 2. Papaver _nudicaule_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 34. + + 3. Arabis _petræa_, Lam.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 42. + + 4. Cardamine _pratensis_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 45. + + 5. Draba _alpina_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 50. + + 6. Eutrema _Edwardsii_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 67. + +CARYOPHYLLEÆ, _Juss._ + + 7. Silene _acaulis_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 89. + + 8. Lychnis _apetala_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 94. + + 9. Stellaria _Edwardsii_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 96. Tab. 31. + + 10. Cerastium _alpinum_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 104. + +LEGUMINOSÆ, _Juss._ + + 11. Oxytropis _campestris_, De Cand.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 146. + + 12. Oxytropis _Uralensis_, De Cand.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 145. + + 13. Phaca _astragalina_, De Cand.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 145. + +ROSACEÆ, _Juss._ + + 14. Dryas _integrifolia_, Vahl.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 174. + + 15. Rubus _Chamæmorus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 183. + + 16. Potentilla _nana_, Lehm.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 194. + +ONAGRARIEÆ, _Juss._ + + 17. Epilobium _latifolium_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 205. + +SAXIFRAGEÆ, _Juss._ + + 18. Saxifraga _oppositifolia_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 242. + + 19. Saxifraga _cæspitosa_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 246. + + 20. Saxifraga _cernua_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 246. + + 21. Saxifraga _rivularis_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 246. + + 22. Saxifraga _Hirculus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 252. and + var. _bi-triflora_. + + 23. Saxifraga _tricuspidata_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 253. + +COMPOSITÆ, _Juss._ + + 24. Leontodon _Taraxacum_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 296. + + 25. Chrysanthemum _integrifolium_, Rich.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. + p. 319, Tab. 109. + + 26. Erigeron _uniflorus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 17. + +CAMPANULACEÆ, _Juss._ + + 27. Campanula _uniflora_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 29. + +ERICEÆ, _Juss._ + + 28. Andromeda _tetragona_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 38. + + 29. Ledum _palustre_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 44. var. + _angustifolium_. + +DIAPENSIACEÆ, _Lindl._ + + 30. Diapensia _Lapponica_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 76. + +BORAGINEÆ, _Juss._ + + 31. Lithospermum _maritimum_, Lehm.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 36. + +SCROPHULARINEÆ, _Juss._ + + 32. Pedicularis _hirsuta_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 109. + + 33. Pedicularis _Langsdorffii_, Fisch.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. + p. 109. + +PLUMBAGINEÆ, _Juss._ + + 34. Statice _Armeria_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 123. + +AMENTACEÆ, _Juss._ + + 35. Salix _Myrsinites_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 151. + + 36. Salix _Arctica_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 152. + + + MONOCOTYLEDONES. + +JUNCEÆ, _Juss._ + + 37. Luzula _hyperborea_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 188. + +CYPERACEÆ, _Juss._ + + 38. Carex _membranacea_,--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 220. + + 39. Eriophorum _polystachyon_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 231. + +GRAMINEÆ, _Juss._ + + 40. Alopecurus _alpinus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 234. + + 41. Hierochloe _alpina_, Roem. et Sch.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. + p. 234. + + 42. Colpodium _latifolium_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 238. + + 43. Poa _Arctica_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 246. + + 44. Festuca _brevifolia_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 250. + + 45. Elymus _arenarius_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 255. + + + _Plants collected between REPULSE BAY and CAPE LADY PELLY._ + + + DICOTYLEDONES. + +RANUNCULACEÆ, _Juss._ + + 1. Ranunculus _Lapponicus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 16. + +PAPAVERACEÆ, _Juss._ + + 2. Papaver _nudicaule_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 34. + +CRUCIFERÆ, _Juss._ + + 3. Cardamine _pratensis_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 44. + + 4. Draba _alpina_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 50. + + 5. Draba _stellata_, Jacq.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 53. + +CARYOPHYLLEÆ, _Juss._ + + 6. Stellaria _humifusa_, Rottb.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 97. + + 7. Cerastium _alpinum_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 104. + +LEGUMINOSÆ, _Juss._ + + 8. Oxytropis _Uralensis_, De Cand.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. + 145. + + 9. Oxytropis _campestris_, De Cand.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 147. + +ROSACEÆ, _Juss._ + + 10. Dryas _integrifolia_, Vahl.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 174. + + 11. Potentilla _nana_, Lehm.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 190. + +ONAGRARIEÆ, _Juss._ + + 12. Epilobium _latifolium_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 204. + +SAXIFRAGEÆ, _Juss._ + + 13. Saxifraga _oppositifolia_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 242. + + 14. Saxifraga _cernua_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 245. + + 15. Saxifraga _rivularis_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 246. + + 16. Saxifraga _nivalis_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 248. + + 17. Saxifraga _foliolosa_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 251. + + 18. Saxifraga _Hirculus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 252. + +COMPOSITÆ, _Juss._ + + 19. Leontodon _Taraxacum_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 296. + + 20. Pyrethrum _inodorum_, Sm.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 320. + + 21. Arnica _montana_, L.--[Greek: b]. _angustifolia_, Hook. Fl. + Bor. Am. i. p. 330. + + 22. Erigeron _uniflorus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 17. + +ERICEÆ, _Juss._ + + 23. Andromeda _tetragona_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 38. + +MONOTROPEÆ, _Nutt._ + + 24. Pyrola _rotundifolia_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 46. + +SCROPHULARINEÆ, _Juss._ + + 25. Pedicularis _hirsuta_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 109. + +AMENTACEÆ, _Juss._ + + 26. Salix _Arctica_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 152. + + + MONOCOTYLEDONES. + +JUNCEÆ, _Juss._ + + 27. Luzula _hyperborea_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 188. + +CYPERACEÆ, _Juss._ + + 28. Carex _dioica_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 208. + + 29. Carex _membranacea_, Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 220. + + 30. Carex _cæspitosa_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 217. + + 31. Carex _ustulata_, Wahl.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 224. + + 32. Eriophorum _capitatum_, Host.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 231. + +GRAMINEÆ, _Juss._ + + 33. Hierochloe _alpina_, Roem. and Sch.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. + p. 234. + + 34. Colpodium _latifolium_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 238. + + 35. Dupontia _Fischeri_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 242. + + 36. Poa _Arctica_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 246. + + 37. Poa _angustata_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 246. + + 38. Poa _alpina_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 246. + + + SPECIMENS OF ROCKS, + + _Described by JAMES TENNANT, ESQ., Professor of Mineralogy in + King's College, London._ + + +CAPE LADY PELLY, 67° 30' N. 88° W. + + Gneiss. + +NEAR POINT HARGRAVE, 67° 25' N. 87° 35' W. + + Gneiss. + +CAPE T. SIMPSON, 67° 22' N. 87° W. + + Gneiss with chlorite. + + Mica-slate. + + Mica-slate, with indistinct crystals of precious Garnets. + +ISTHMUS connecting Ross's Peninsula with the Continent. + + Felspar. + +SIMPSON'S PENINSULA, 68° 1/3' N. 88° 20' W. + + Compact argillaceous Limestone. + +A HILL on the western shore of Halkett's Inlet, 69° 14' N. 90° 50' W. + + Cellular Quartz, coloured by oxide of Iron. + + Mica-slate full of Garnets. + +HELEN ISLAND, one of the Harrison Group in Pelly Bay, 68° 54' N. 89° 52' +W. + + Felspar--red colour. + + Gneiss; the Felspar, Mica, and Quartz distinctly stratified. + + Gneiss; the Felspar red and greatly predominating. + +BEACON HILL, near Fort Hope, 66° 32' N. 86° 56' W. + + Granite. + + Ditto, with a small quantity of Mica; the Felspar red, and + constituting four-fifths of the mass. + + Gneiss, with veins of red Felspar running diagonally to the + stratification. + + Mica-slate. + +NORTH POLE RIVER. + + Mica-slate. + + Ditto, with veins of Quartz. + + Gneiss. + + Ditto, the Felspar red and greatly predominating. + + Ditto, the Felspar very friable. + + Quartz rock with Felspar. + + Argillaceous Limestone, compact. + +NORTH POLE LAKE, 66° 40' N. 87° 2' W. + + Gneiss. + + Mica-slate. + +REPULSE BAY, 66° 32' N. 86° 56' W. + + Quartz, coloured by oxide of Iron, and containing minute + particles of Gold. + +MELVILLE PENINSULA, 68° 27' N. 85° 24' W. + + Hornblende-slate. + +MUNRO INLET. + + Granite, the Felspar greatly predominating. + +ISLAND near the north point of Rankin's Inlet. + + Quartz, enclosing chlorite and Copper Pyrites. + + Talcose-slate. + + Carbonate and silicate of Copper, with Copper Pyrites on + argillaceous slate. + + Ditto, with a thin coating of green carbonate of Copper. + + Mica-slate. + + Chlorite-slate, friable. + + Ditto, with very thin veins of Calcareous Spar running + diagonally in stratification. + +ISLAND near the south point of Rankin's Inlet. + + Quartz and Iron Pyrites; the latter crystallized in cubes, the + faces of which are not above one-sixteenth of an inch. + + Quartz, with Iron Pyrites, and superficially coloured by oxide + of Iron. + + Hornblende-slate. + + Mica-slate. + + Chlorite-slate. + + + + + _Dip of the needle and force of magnetic attraction at various + stations along the west shore of Hudson's Bay, and at Fort Hope, + Repulse Bay._ + +------------+--------+-------+----------------+--------+-------+-----------+-----+--------- + Name of |Latitude|Longi- | Date. |Times. | Dip | Time |Therm|Variation + Station | N. |tude | | | Mean. | of 10 | |of + | | W. | | | | Vibra- | |Compass. + | | | | | | tions. | | +------------+--------+-------+----------------+--------+-------+-----------+-----+--------- + |d. m. s.|d. m.s.| |h. mi. |d. m.s.| Needle |d. m.|d. m. s. + | | | | | | No. 2 | | + | | | | | | deflected,| | + | | | | | | 20 deg. | | + | | | | | | from dip. | | +York Factory|57 0 2|92 26 0| 5 Nov. 1845 | 9 0 AM|83 47 0| |+31 0| + " |57 0 0|92 26 0| 8 " | 9 0 " |83 43 0| |+25 0| + " | " | " | 12 " | 2 30 PM|83 37 0| |+25 0| + " | " | " | 15 " | 9 0 AM|83 41 0| |+33 0| + " |57 0 0|92 26 0| 19 " | 9 0 " |83 42 5| |+25 0| + " | " | " | 22 " | 9 30 " |83 43 4| |+ 3 0| + " | " | " | 26 " | 9 30 " |83 48 7| |- 4 0| + " | " | " | 29 " | 9 30 " |83 42 5| |-13 0| + " | " | " | 3 Dec." | 9 30 " |83 54 2| |- 6 0| + " | " | " | 6 " | 9 30 " |83 43 2| |+ 8 0| + " | " | " | 10 " | 9 30 " |83 43 5| |-19 0| + " | " | " | 13 " | 9 30 " |83 48 2| | 0 0| +York Factory|57 0 0|92 26 0| 17 Dec. 1845 | 9 35 AM|83 40 9| |-11 0| + " | " | " | 20 " | 9 30 " |83 39 1| |-16 0| + " | " | " | 24 " |10 10 " |83 45 5| |-23 0| + " | " | " | 31 " |10 30 " |83 46 0| |+ 7 0| + " | " | " | 3 Jan. 1846 |10 30 " |83 46 1| |+20 0| + " | " | " | 7 " |10 30 " |83 47 0| |+ 5 0| + " | " | " | 10 " |10 30 " |83 45 5| |+ 7 0| + " | " | " | 14 " |10 30 " |83 43 9| |- 2 0| + " | " | " | 21 " |10 30 " |83 44 8| |-10 0| + " | " | " | 24 " |10 30 " |83 41 7| |+23 5| + " | " | " | 28 " |10 30 " |83 45 8| |+15 0| + " | " | " | 31 " {|10 0 AM|83 45 8| {|-15 0| + | | | {| 3 0 PM| | {|- 3 0| + " | " | " | 4 Feb." {|10 0 AM|83 50 5| {|-12 5| + | | | {| 3 0 PM| | {|-14 0| + " | " | " | 7 " |10 0 AM|83 45 5| |-11 5| +York Factory|57 0 0|92 26 0| 11 Feb. 1846 {|10 0 AM|83 44 8| {|- 5 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|-11 3| + " | " | " | 14 " {| 9 30 AM|83 41 6| |-23 0| + | | | {| 3 20 PM|83 38 1| |- 8 0| + " | " | " | 18 " {| 9 30 AM|83 36 6| {|+ 6 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|- 3 0| + " | " | " | 21 " {| 9 30 AM|83 41 0| {|-11 5| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+ 6 0| + " | " | " | 25 " {| 9 30 AM|83 40 9| {|-23 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|-10 5| + " | " | " | 28 " {| 9 30 AM|83 39 7| {|-13 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+ 4 0| + " | " | " | 4 Mar." {| 9 30 AM|83 44 1| {|+ 6 5| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+ 4 0| + " | " | " | 7 " {| 9 30 AM|83 42 5| {|+29 0| + | | | {| 3 40 PM| | {|+37 0| + " | " | " | 11 " {| 9 30 AM|83 44 6| {|+26 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+25 0| + " | " | " | 14 " {| 9 30 AM|83 40 9| {|+12 5| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+22 0| + " | " | " | 18 " {| 9 30 AM|83 39 6| {|+15 5| + | | | {| 3 40 PM| | {|+21 0| + " | " | " | 21 " {| 9 30 AM|83 37 7| {|- 2 5| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+ 5 8| + " | " | " | 25 " {| 9 40 AM|83 47 0| {|+30 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+30 0| + " | " | " | 28 " {| 9 35 AM|83 43 8| {|+ 8 5| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+ 8 0 +York Factory|57 0 0|92 26 0| 1 April 1846 {| 9 30 AM|83 42 8| {|+ 8 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+15 0| + " | " | " | 4 " {| 9 30 AM|83 45 2| {|+35 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+25 0| + " | " | " | 11 " {| 9 40 AM|83 40 6| {|+41 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+42 0| + " | " | " | 15 " {| 9 35 AM|83 35 7| {|- 3 5| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|- 6 0| + " | " | " | 18 " {| 9 30 AM|83 40 2| {|+ 9 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+29 0| + " | " | " | 22 " {| 0 30 AM|83 38 9| {|+45 0| + | | | {| 3 35 PM| | {|+40 0| + " | " | " | 25 " {| 0 0 AM|83 35 5| Ther. {|+43 0| + | | | {| | | +40° 0' {| | + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | 21s.--34 {|+32 0| + " | " | " | 29 " {| 9 45 AM|83 38 0| Ther. {|+42 0| + | | | {| | | +46° 0' {| | + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | 21s.--23 {|+43 0| + " | " | " | 2 May " {| 9 30 AM|83 38 5| {|+39 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+47 0| + " | " | " | 6 " {| 9 30 AM|83 37 9| Ther. {|+51 0| + | | | {| | | +66° 0' {| | + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | 21s.--31 {|+67 0| + " | " | " | 16 " {| 9 35 AM|83 39 0| Ther. {|+36 0| + | | | {| | | +43° 0' {| | + | | | {| 3 35 PM| | 21s.--13 {|+44 0| +Creek |58 2 0|92 20 | 20 June " | 3 45 PM|84 46 4| |+49 0| +Churchill |58 43 50|94 14 | 29 " {| 9 47 AM|84 50 8| Ther. {|+60 0| + | | | {| | | +61° 0' {| | + | | | {| 3 35 PM| | 21s.--14 {|+61 0| + " | " | " | 1 July " {|10 30 AM|84 43 9| {|+88 0| + | | | {| 3 0 PM| | {|+60 0| +Churchill |58 43 50|94 14 0| 4 July 1846 | 8 10 PM|84 44 5| |+41 0| +Knapp's Bay |61 9 42| " | 8 " |10 45 AM|86 18 3| {|+52 0| + | | | | | | {|+51 0| + " | " | " | 8 " | 3 0 PM| | | | + " | " | " | 12 " | 5 15 PM|87 16 3| {|+58 0| + | | | | | | {|+52 0| + " |64 6 0|88 0 0| 18 " | Noon. |86 36 5| Ther. {|+54 0| + | | | {| | | +54° 0' | | + | | | | | | 20s.--84 | | +Near Wager |65 10 0| " | 21 " | 4 5 PM|87 10 6| Ther. |+52 0| +River | | | {| | | +65° 0' | | + | | | | | | 21s.--03 | | + " |65 15 36|87 10 0| 22 " |11 35 AM| | |+52 0| +Repulse Bay |66 32 0| " | 27 " |11 15 AM|88 16 7| Ther. {|+55 0| + | | | {| | | +57° 0' {| | + | | | | | | 21s.--7 {|+57 0| +Flett's | | " | 28 " {| 2 40 PM| | {|+90 0| +Portage | | | {| 3 15 PM| | {|+82 0| +Descent | " | " | 31 " {| 6 20 PM| | |+53 0| +Portage | | | {| 6 50 PM| | | | +Cape Lady | " | " | 3 Aug. " | | | | | +Pelly | | | | | | | | +3 Miles N.W.| " | " | " | 5 30 PM|88 27 1| Ther. |+52 0| +of do. | | | {| | | +52° 0' | | + | | | {| | | 21s.--8 | | +Fort Hope |66 32 0|86 56 0| 18 Nov. " {|11 15 AM|87 51 5| {|-6 0|West + | | | {| 2 0 PM| | {|-5 0|62 50 30 + " | " | " | 21 " {| 9 45 AM|88 11 4| Ther. {|+6 0| + | | | {| | | +10° 5' {| | + | | | {| 2 15 PM| | 22s.--66 {|+10 0| +Fort Hope |66 32 0|86 56 0| 25 Nov. 1846 | 2 10 PM|88 8 9| {|-21 0| + | | | | | | {|-15 0| + " | " | " | 5 Dec. " {|10 0 AM|88 13 9| Ther. {|-13 0| + | | | {| | | +9° 0' {| | + | | | {| 2 0 PM| | 22s.--6 {|-16 0| + " | " | " | 12 " {|10 10 AM|88 13 3| {|+ 6 0| + | | | {| 2 5 PM| | {|+ 8 0| + " | " | " | 16 " {|10 0 AM|88 12 7| {| 0 0| + | | | {| 2 20 PM| | {|+ 2 0| + " | " | " | 23 " {|10 0 AM|88 16 3| {|- 7 0| + | | | {| 2 0 PM| | {|- 8 0| + " | " | " | 2 Jan. 1847 {|10 10 AM|88 17 5| {|-23 0| + | | | {| 2 30 PM| | {|-21 5| + " | " | " | 10 Feb. " {| 9 50 AM|88 10 9| {|-22 0| + | | | {| 2 10 PM| | {|-20 0| + " | " | " | 13 " {| 9 50 AM|88 13 5| {|-28 0| + | | | {| 2 10 PM| | {|-26 0| + " | " | " | 17 " {| 9 50 AM| | {|-36 0| + | | | {| 2 15 PM| | {|-33 0| + " | " | " | 24 " {| 9 55 AM| | {|-22 0| + | | | {| 2 10 PM| | {|-22 0| +York Factory|57 0 0|92 26 0| 18 Sept. " {| 9 15 AM|83 47 0| |+52 0| + | | | {| 3 10 PM| | | | + + + + + Fort Hope, Repulse Bay. + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for September, 1846._ + + +-----+-------------------------------+---------------------------------- +Day | Temperature of the Atmosphere | +of | taken eight times in twenty- | Prevailing Winds. +the | four hours. | +Month+----------+----------+---------+----------------------+----------- + |_Highest._|_Lowest._ | _Mean._ | _Direction._ |_Force._ +-----+----------+----------+---------+----------------------+----------- + | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | | | + 1 | +35 | +27 | +29.7 | E.S.E | 2-4 + 2 | +37 | +27 | +31 | E.S.E. | 5-4 + 3 | +36 | +25 | +31 | E.--Vble. | 9-1 + 4 | +34 | +28 | +30.3 | E. by S. | 8 + 5 | +42 | +26 | +32.7 | O.--N.N.W. | 0-7 + 6 | | | | N. | 6 + 7 | +31 | +25 | +27 | N. | 6 + 8 | +35 | +26 | +30.5 | N.N.W. | 6 + 9 | | | | N.N.W. | 6 + 10 | +32 | +30 | +31.3 | N.N.W.--O.--S.E. | 4-5 + 11 | +34 | +31 | +32.5 | E. by S. | 10-8 + 12 | | | | E. by S.--S. E. by E.| 9-5 + 13 | | | | S.W. by S.--S.W. | 5-9 + 14 | | | | | + 15 | +45 | +45 | +45 | S.S. | 4 + 16 | +34 | +25 | +28.7 | Vble.--O.--E. by N. | 1-2 + 17 | +32 | +24 | +28 | W. | 2-3 + 18 | +29 | +26 | +27.7 | N.W.--W.N.W. | 6-7 + 19 | +33 | +26 | +29.7 | W.N.W.--O.--E. | 9-0 + 20 | +32 | +24 | +28 | N.N.W. | 5-4 + 21 | +36 | +24 | +29.3 | N.--O.--E. | 0-3 + 22 | +31 | +23 | +27.7 | N. by W. | 5-6 + 23 | +28 | +16 | +22.3 | W.N.W. | 3-4 + 24 | +42 | +21 | +29.3 | Vble. | 1-0 + 25 | +30 | +16 | +24.3 | Vble. | 0-2 + 26 | +30 | +26 | +28 | E.N.E. | 8-9 + 27 | +26 | +24 | +25 | N. by W. | 5-6 + 28 | +26 | +20 | +22.7 | N.N.W. | 7-6 + 29 | +24 | +22 | +23 | W.N.W. | 4 + 30 | +22 | +18 | +19.7 | Vble.--S.E. by E. | 1-4 + ------ + 714.4 + ------ + +28.57 + + +----+------------------+------------------------------------------------ +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +the | attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. +Mon.+--------+---------+ + |_Barom._|_Thermo._| +----+--------+---------+------------------------------------------------ + 1 | | | c. c. o. Solar halo with parhelia. + 2 | | | c. c. c. + 3 | | | s. b. c. + 4 | | | c. c. c. p. of sleet. + 5 | | | c. c. o. Full moon. + 6 | | | p. s. o. + 7 | | | p. s. c. + 8 | | | c. p. s. + 9 | | | c. p. s. + 10 | | | c. b. c. o. + 11 | | | s. c. s. c. b. much drift. + 12 | | | o. c. c. [quarter moon symbol] last quarter. + 13 | | | b. c. + 14 | | | + 15 | | | c. p. s. + 16 | | | c. c. c. + 17 | | | b. c. + 18 | | | o. s. s. + 19 | | | s. s. + 20 | | | s. o. c. s. + 21 | | | c. c. c. + 22 | | | s. s. b. + | | | Aurora visible to the southward at 8 P.M. + 23 | | | b. b. c. + 24 | | | o. b. c. o. + 25 | | | c. o. + 26 | | | s. s. s. + 27 | | | s. drifting. + 28 | | | p. so. drifting. + 29 | | | b. c. + 30 | | | h. b. s. + + + + + FORT HOPE, REPULSE BAY. + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for October, 1846._ + + +------+--------------------------------+-------------------------------- + Day |Temperature of the Atmosphere | + of | taken eight times in | Prevailing Winds. + the | twenty-four hours. | +Month.| | + +----------+----------+----------+------------------------+------- + |_Highest._|_Lowest._ | _Mean._ | _Direction._ |_Force_ +------+----------+----------+----------+------------------------+------- + | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | | + 1 | +27 | +25 | +26 | Vble. S.W.--N.W. | 1-5 + 2 | +25 | +16 | +21 | N.W. | 8 + 3 | +24 | +10 | +18 | Vble. E. by S. | 1-5 + 4 | +38 | +38 | +38 | S.E. by E. | 4 + 5 | +37 | +30 | +33 | E. | 2-4 + 6 | +33 | +28 | +30.3 | N.E. | 3-4 + 7 | +30 | +28 | +29 | N.E. | 4-3 + 8 | +28 | +25 | +26.3 | N.--N.N.W. | 4-5 + 9 | +22 | +21 | +21.5 | N.W.--O.--Vble. | 3-0-2 + 10 | +27 | +26 | +26.5 | E. | 8-9 + 11 | +32 | +28 | +30 | N.E.--O. | 1-0 + 12 | +27 | +25 | +25 | N. by W. | 7-9 + 13 | +29 | +27 | +28.1 | N. by W. | 8-9 + 14 | +26 | +18 | +23.2 | N. | 10-11 + 15 | +12 | +10 | +11 | N. by W. | 10-11 + 16 | + 5 | 0 | + 2.6 | N.N.W. | 7-4 + 17 | + 3.5 | - 1 | + 0.8 | N.N.W. | 7-8 + 18 | + 6 | - 0.8 | + 1.7 | S.W.W.--W.N.W. | 4-6 + 19 | + 2 | - 4.8 | - 0.7 | N.--N.N.W. | 5-9 + 20 | + 3 | - 2.5 | - 0.3 | N.W. | 10-11 + 21 | - 2.8 | -10 | - 6 | N.W.--N.W. by N. | 7-11 + 22 | - 4.5 | -15 | - 8.1 | N.W. Vble. S.W. | 0-2 + 23 | + 5.3 | - 0.5 | + 3 | N.W. by W.--N.W. by N. | 3-5 + 24 | - 0. | - 6.4 | - 4.2 | N.W. by W.--N.W. | 4-5 + 25 | + 4.5 | - 6.2 | - 1.8 | N.W. by N. | 5 + 26 | - 7.3 | -10.2 | - 8.5 | N.W.--N.W. by N. | 4-6 + 27 | - 6. | -15 | -10.6 | N.W. by N.--N.W. | 0-3-5 + 28 | - 1.8 | -11.8 | - 6.4 | N.W. & N.N.W. | 0-4 + 29 | +10 | + 3.1 | + 8.4 | S.S.E. S.--calm. | 0-2-4 + 30 | +25.3 | +21 | +23.4 | S.S.E.--S.W.--W. by N. | 2-8 + 31 | +10 | 0 | + 5.2 | S. N.W. W.S.W. N.N.W. | 1-4 + | ------ | + | 389.4 | + | ------ | + | +12.56 | + + +----+--------------------+---------------------------------------------- +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. + +---------+----------+ + |_Barom._ |_Thermo._ | +----|---------+----------+---------------------------------------------- + 1 | | | s. ps. + 2 | | | b. c. drifting. + 3 | | | h. p. s. o. s. + 4 | | | h. p. r. + 5 | | | h. wet. + 6 | | | h. p. s. o. p. s. + 7 | | | h. p. s. + 8 | | | c. o. o. + 9 | | | h. c. c. + 10 | | | s. drifting. + 11 | | | s. s. s. + 12 | | | s. with much drift. + 13 | 29.338 | +49 | s. and much drift. + 14 | 29.431 | +46.3 | s. and drift. + 15 | 29.690 | +44 | s. much drift. + 16 | 29.605 | +30.5 | b. c.; drift; haze and some drift--parhelia; + | | | haze with scaly snow; faint aurora to the + | | | S. and S. by E. alt. 12°. + 17 | 29.719 | +32.8 | b. c., much drift; aurora to the S.S.E. + | | | parallel to the horizon; alt. 12°. + 18 | 29.641 | +31.5 | b. c., drift; cirrus; some faint streaks of + | | | aurora to the W. + 19 | 29.662 | +29 | b. c., drifting; solar halo with prismatic + | | | colours and parhelia; snow and much drift. + 20 | 29.842 | +29.5 | s. much drift. + 21 | 29.959 | +30.5 | b. c., much drift; at 8 p.m. several streaks + | | | of faint aurora extending across the zenith + | | | in a N.W. and S.E. direction; many rays in + | | | different parts of the heavens. + 22 | 29.828 | +28.5 | + 23 | 29.919 | +32 | f. o. f. o. s. o. s. b. c. f. s. + 24 | 29.974 | +31 | b. c. o. drifting. + 25 | 30.023 | +29 | o. drifting. + 26 | 30.062 | +29.3 | o. m. b. c. drifting. + 27 | 30.47 | +26.5 | b. c. m., some faint streaks of aurora in + | | | various parts of the sky bearing for the + | | | most part N.N.W. and S.S.E. + 28 | 30.505 | +26. | b. c., a few clouds near horizon; a very + | | | faint light yellow cloud aurora to the S.E. + | | | and N.W. + 29 | 30.119 | +30.3 | c. s. b. c. s. o. m. b. c., cirrus extending + | | | from S.S.E. to N.N.W., resembling much the + | | | aurora. Lunar halo. + 30 | 29.078 | +39.7 | o. m. o. s. b. c. o. drifting. + 31 | 30.094 | +34.3 | b. b. c. c., solar halo; cirrus; 120 lunar + | | | distances were observed from Jupiter and + | | | at Aquilæ, E. and W. of the moon. + | | | Lunar halo diam. 40° or 50°. + + + + + FORT HOPE, REPULSE BAY. + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for November, 1846._ + + +-----+------------------------------+----------------------------------- + Day |Temperature of the Atmosphere | + of | taken eight times in | + the | twenty-four hours. | Prevailing Winds. +Month| | + +----------+---------+---------+--------------------------+-------- + |_Highest._|_Lowest._| _Mean._ | _Direction._ |_Force._ +-----+----------+---------+---------+--------------------------+-------- + | _deg.m._ |_deg.m._ |_deg.m._ | | + 1 | +18 | - 3.0 | + 8.5 | W.N.W. N.E. E. | 2-7 + 2 | +26.5 | +22.3 | +24.4 | S.E. S.E. by E. E. by W. | 2-5 + 3 | +27 | +25.5 | +26.3 | S.E. E.S.E. | 2-5 + 4 | +26 | +21.5 | +23.8 | S.E.S. S.S.E. | 3-5 + 5 | +22 | + 0 | +13.2 | N. by W. N.W. by W. | 2-7 + 6 | - .5 | - 9.5 | - 3.5 | W.N.W. | 3-7 + 7 | + 11.5 | + 6 | + 9.7 | N. by E. | 4-7 + 8 | + 11 | + 5 | + 8.5 | N. | 4-7 + 9 | +12.5 | + 9.5 | + 10.9 | E.N.E. N.E. | 3-10 + 10 | +28.2 | +22.5 | +25.6 | E.S.E. S. S.S.W. | 3-8 + 11 | +17 | + 2.5 | + 7.5 | N.W. N.N.W. W. by N. | 5-8 + 12 | + 2.3 | - 8.5 | - 1 | N.N.E. W. N.N.W. | 2-5 + 13 | - 6 | - 8 | - 6.8 | N. by W. N.N.W. | 4-8 + 14 | - 4.6 | - 8.7 | - 6.6 | N.N.W. N. N. by W. | 3-7 + 15 | + 4.5 | -10.5 | - 3.8 | Calm. Vble. E. | 0-4 + 16 | +17.3 | +15 | +16.3 | E. N.E. N. | 1-6 + 17 | + 7.5 | - 8 | + .25 | N. by W. | 4-6 + 18 | - 4 | - 9.2 | - 7.1 | N.W. by N. Calm S.W. | 0-2 + 19 | +21.7 | +18 | +20.61 | S.S.E. S.E. E. | 4-7 + 20 | +12 | - 8.8 | + 2.9 | Calm. S. by E. N. | 0-2 + 21 | + 4.5 | - 4.2 | - 0.9 | S. S.E. E. | 4-1 + 22 | - 3 | - 4.2 | - 3.6 | S. by E. W. N.W. | 2-6 + 23 | -18.5 | -22.5 | -19.77 | N. by W. N.N.W. | 3-5 + 24 | -20.5 | -25.2 | -22.54 | N.N.W. | 5-1 + 25 | -14.5 | -24.5 | -20.06 | N. by E. N.W. N.W. by W. | 1-3 + 26 | -17.5 | -23.5 | -20.7 | N. | 6-9 + 27 | -11.8 | -15.5 | -13.6 | N. by W. | 9-10 + 28 | - 5.4 | - 8.5 | - 6.6 | N. by W. | 7-9 + 29 | -16.5 | -25.3 | -20.3 | N.N.W. W.N.W. | 6-3 + 30 | -17.5 | -24.4 | -21. | W. W.N.W. N.W. | 6-3 + | ------- | + | +20.59 | + | ------- | + | + 0.68 | + + +----+------------------+------------------------------------------------ +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. + +--------+---------+ + |_Barom._|_Thermo._| +----+--------+---------+------------------------------------------------ + 1 | 30.011 | +35 |b. c. o. s. and drift. + 2 | 29.715 | +38 |o. m. s. o. m. o. s. + 3 | 29.623 | +38.7 |o. m. s. o. s. + 4 | 29.624 | +39.5 |o. m. b. c. o. m. + 5 | 29.796 | +41 |o. m s. b. c. b. drifting. A faint ray of + | | | aurora to the S. E. extending vertically + | | | towards the zenith. + 6 | 30.009 | +38.8 |b. c. drifting. Some faint beams of aurora + | | | extending from S.W. to N.W., alt. 60°; one ray + | | | to the S.E. pointing towards the zenith. + 7 | 29.894 | +37.3 |o. c. o. drifting. + 8 | 30.1 | +39.5 |o. drifting. + 9 | 39.996 | +35.2 |o. s. drifting thick. + 10 | 29.598 | +40.2 |o s. o. b. c. o. much drift. + 11 | 29.728 | +38 |o. s. o. m. b. c. drifting. + 12 | 30.163 | +38.1 |b. c. m. b. drifting. + 13 | 30.214 | +34.9 |b. m. b c. m. much drift. + 14 | 30.39 | +36.2 |b. m. much drift. Solar halo and parhelia with + | | | prismatic colours; hazy near horizon; a faint + | | | beam of aurora to the westward directed toward + | | | the zenith; drifting. + 15 | 30.239 | +37 |o.m. o. s. + 16 | 29.963 | +38 |o.s. b. c. m. drifting. + 17 | 30.102 | +37 |o.s. b. c. m. drifting. Three beams of aurora + | | | pointing towards the zenith; two of them + | | | bearing N.N.W., and the other S.E. + 18 | 30.006 | +33.7 |b. c. fo. o. m. At 9 A.M. there was a very red + | | | sky to the N. westward; sound heard at a + | | | great distance. + 19 | 29.573 | +36.7 |o. s. b. c. drifting. + 20 | 29.420 | +36.8 |o. s. m. o. s. f. b. c. m. At 7 h. 30 m. a + | | | faint aurora extending from W. to S.E., + | | | alt. 20°; motion rapid; no prismatic colours. + 21 | 29.409 | +37 |o. s. b. c. s. o. f. s. b. m. s. + 22 | 29.615 | +39 |b. c. Some faint streaks of aurora, most of them + | | | to the S. eastward, and pointed towards the + | | | horizon. + 23 | 29.918 | +33.7 |b. m. b. c. Some faint rays of aurora visible + | | | this morning at 5 h. 30 m. in different parts + | | | of the heavens; drifting. + 24 | 30.408 | +33.7 |b. c. drifting. + 25 | 30.573 | +30.8 |b. b. m. Two faint beams of aurora bearing + | | | W.N.W. and pointing towards the zenith; + | | | altitude of lower limb 30°. + 26 | 30.606 | +32 |b. m. b. much drift. + 27 | 29.555 | +31 |b. m. o. s. drifting. Door drifted up. + 28 | 29.41 | +26.6 |o. m. b. c. s. o. s. drifting. + 29 | 29.894 | +27.5 |b. c. drifting. + 30 | 30.354 | +26 |b. c. m. drifting. + + + + + FORT HOPE, REPULSE BAY. + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for December, 1846._ + + +-----+-------------------------------+---------------------------------- +Day | Temperature of the Atmosphere | +of | taken eight times in | Prevailing Winds. +the | twenty-four hours. | +Month+----------+----------+---------+------------------------+--------- + |_Highest._|_Lowest._ | _Mean._ | Direction. | Force. +-----+----------+----------+---------+------------------------+--------- + | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._| | + 1 | -24 | -27 | -25.875 | Calm. N.E. N. | 0-3 + 2 | -26.7 | -30 | -28.1 | N.E. Calm. N. | 1-0 + 3 | -24.8 | -28.5 | -26.4 | N. by W. | 1-4 + 4 | -24.8 | -28 | -29.97 | N.W. by W. S.S.W. | 4-0 + 5 | -17.3 | -21 | -19.7 | Calm. S. by E. S.S.E. | 0-2 + 6 | - 6.5 | -11 | - 9.14 | E. by S. N.E. N. | 5-2 + 7 | -16.5 | -24 | -19.7 | N. | 5-7 + 8 | -19.5 | -25.6 | -22.61 | N. | 9-8 + 9 | +14 | -15 | + .03 | N.N.W. N.N.E. N.E. | 11-5 + 10 | +17 | +14.8 | +15.74 | N.E. by N. N.E. E. | 4-6 + 11 | +12.7 | + 9.8 | +11.6 | N. by E. N.N.W. N.W. | 4-1 + 12 | + 4 | - 6 | + .74 | S. S.S.E. Calm. | 0-3 + 13 | -13 | -17 | -14.93 | N. N. by W. | 4-1 + 14 | -19 | -23 | -20.94 | Calm. Vble. | 0-2 + 15 | - 9 | -19 | -16.55 | N.N.W. N. by W. | 1-4 + 16 | 0 | - 3 | - 1.64 | N. E.N.E. Calm. Vble. | 0-1 + 17 | - 5 | - 9.6 | - 6.05 | Vble. W.N.W. | 1-2 + 18 | - 6 | - 8.5 | - 7.04 | N. by W. W. Vble. | 2-1 + 19 | -14.2 | -20 | -17.4 | N. by W. N.N.W. | 5-4 + 20 | - 8.7 | -13 | -10.56 | S. by W. N. by W.N. | 1-4 + 21 | -20.7 | -32.3 | -24.83 | N.W. Vble. N. | 1-2 + 22 | -30.5 | -36.5 | -33.4 | W. Calm. N. by E. | 0-2 + 23 | -21.4 | -26 | -23.3 | N.N.E. N.E.N. | 0-1 + 24 | -31 | -35.3 | -33.13 | N. | 7-10 + 25 | -36 | -38 | -36.83 | N. by W. | 10-8 + 26 | -34 | -38 | -36.46 | N. by W. N. | 8-11 + 27 | -30 | -30 | -30 | N. | 10-11 + 28 | -30.8 | -34.8 | -33.01 | N. N. by W. | 6-4 + 29 | -24.5 | -40 | -35 | N.W. by W. Vble. N.N.W.| 0-5 + 30 | -25 | -32.3 | -29.63 | N. | 6-9 + 31 | -23 | -32.5 | -29.25 | N. by W. Vble. N. | 1-7 + | | | ------- | | + | | | 597.43 | | + | | | ------- | | + | | | - 19.27 | | + + +----+------------------+------------------------------------------------ +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. + +--------+---------+ + |_Barom._|_Thermo._| +----+--------+---------+------------------------------------------------ + 1 | 30.452 | +18.75 |b. c. + 2 | 30.237 | +19.6 |b. c. b. c. m. Lunar halo. + 3 | 30.886 | +16.3 |b. c. b. c. m. + 4 | 30.013 | +17 |b. c. m. + 5 | 29.778 | +17.6 |b. c. m. parhelia with prismatic colours; + | | | aurora visible to the south in two arches + | | | arising from near the horizon to the zenith. + 6 | 29.480 | +27.5 |o. s. b. c. + 7 | 29.764 | +26 |b. m. c. drifting. + 8 | 30.039 | +23 |b. c. drift. + 9 | 29.974 | +22 |s. o. drifting. + 10 | 29.892 | +28.3 |s. o. b. c. o. s. drifting. + 11 | 29.759 | +32 |o. s. m. + 12 | 30.016 | +26.6 |o. m. s.b.m. + 13 | 30.36 | +31 |b. m. b. c. The sky to the north had a + | | | beautiful lake coloured tint at sunset; the + | | | most brilliant display of aurora I have + | | | observed this winter, the centre being towards + | | | the true south, and gradually rising from an + | | | altitude of 12° to 70° or 80°. It was of a + | | | pale yellowish green colour. Horizontal needle + | | | not affected. + 14 | 30.473 | +26 |b. c. m. Some faint beams of aurora in + | | | different parts of the heavens. A very faint + | | | aurora to the southward. + 15 | 30.37 | +27 |b. m. b. c.o. A very faint aurora; centre true + | | | south. + 16 | 30.186 | +30.7 |o. m. + 17 | 30.205 | +27.6 |o. m. b. m. Wind variable from N. to E.; + | | | faint aurora to the S.; alt. 10°; centre + | | | S.S.W. 30°. + 18 | 30.274 | +29.3 |o. b. c. m. Aurora faint to the S. by W. + 19 | 30.245 | +27.3 |b. c. m. drifting. + 20 | 30.259 | +28 |b. c. o. s. + 21 | 30.268 | +29 |b. m. Arch of aurora across zenith nearly east + | | | and west; brightest at western extremity. + 22 | 30.264 | +22.3 |b. c. b. m. + 23 | 30.168 | +25.3 |b. m. b. c. b. m. s. Spiculæ of snow falling. + | | | Lunar halo faint. + 24 | 30.065 | +23.6 |b. m. much drift. + 25 | 29.996 | +22 |b. m. much drift. + 26 | 29.83 | +20 |b. c. m. much drift. + 27 | 29.523 | +15.5 |b. c. m. much drift. + 28 | 29.536 | +14.3 |b. m. b. drifting. + 29 | 29.603 | +14.3 |b. b. c. A faint halo, centre S., alt. about + | | | 20°; wind variable from N. to W. by S.; cirrus + | | | clouds; halo round moon. + 30 | 29.577 |+11.6 |b. c. drifting; much drift. + 31 | 29.564 |+15.3 |b. c. + + + + + FORT HOPE, REPULSE BAY. + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for January, 1847._ + + +------+------------------------------+---------------------------------- +Day |Temperature of the Atmosphere | +of | taken eight times in | Prevailing Winds. +the | twenty-four hours. | +Month.+----------+---------+---------+---------------------------+------ + |_Highest._|_Lowest._| _Mean._ | Direction. |Force. +------+----------+---------+---------+---------------------------+------ + | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._|_deg.m._ | | + 1 | -23.5 | -32 | -26.96 |N.N.W. N.W. by W. N. by W. | 1-6 + 2 | -29.5 | -33.5 | -31.8 |N.N.W. N. by W. N.W. | 2-5 + 3 | -30.3 | -32 | -31.4 |N. by W. Calm. N.N.E. | 0-1 + 4 | -31 | -34 | -32.82 |N. Calm. N. | 0-2 + 5 | -27.5 | -30 | -28.61 |N. ½ W. | 5-8 + 6 | -26.5 | -31 | -28.3 |N.N.W. | 6-8 + 7 | -40 | -42 | -40.9 |N.W. Calm. W. N.W.N. | 0-1 + 8 | -44 | -47 | -46.7 |N.W. N.N.W. N. by W. | 1-7 + 9 | -38 | -40 | -39 |N. | 10-11 + 10 | -12 | -17 | -14.5 |N.N.W. | 10-12 + 11 | -10 | -10 | -10 |N. by W. | 7-11 + 12 | -12 | -16 | -14 |N. by W. | 7-8 + 13 | -28.5 | -33.5 | -30.8 |N.N.W. N. by W. | 6-7 + 14 | -33.8 | -36.3 | -35.1 |N. by W. N. ½ W. N. by W. | 7-5 + 15 | -38 | -39.5 | -38.7 |N. by W. N.W. N.N.W. | 2-5 + 16 | -39.3 | -41 | -37.07 |N. by W. N.N.W. N. by W. | 2-6 + 17 | -38 | -41 | -39.6 |N. by W. | 7-8 + 18 | -37 | -40 | -38.95 |N.W. by N. N. by W. | 2-4 + 19 | -25 | -31 | -30.6 |N.N.W. N.N.W. | 9-11 + 20 | -14 | -20 | -17 |N.N.W. | 8-10 + 21 | -20.5 | -26.5 | -23.4 |N. by W. N.N.E. N. | 2-9 + 22 | -14 | -26 | -18.87 |N.W. N.N.W. | 6-11 + 23 | -10 | -13 | -11.2 |N.N.W. | 9-11 + 24 | -13 | -13 | -13 |N.N.W. | 9-11 + 25 | -26.5 | -32.5 | -29.25 |N.N.W. | 4-7 + 26 | -31.5 | -37 | -34.47 |N. Calm. Vble. N. | 0-1 + 27 | -29 | -35 | -32.05 |N. N. by W. | 1-2 + 28 | -33.3 | -35.5 | -34.65 |N. by W. | 6-7 + 29 | -36 | -42.7 | -39.25 |N. by W. W.N.W. N.W. | 4-1 + 30 | -24.7 | -36.5 | -28.64 |S. by W. Vble. E. | 1-5 + 31 | -27.5 | -35 | -31.5 |N. by W. | 4-7 + | | |-------- | | + | | | 909 | | + | | |-------- | | + | | | -29.32 | | + + + +----+------------------+----------------------------------------------- +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. + +--------+---------+ + |_Barom._|_Thermo._| +----+--------+---------+----------------------------------------------- + 1 | 29.908 | +17 | b. c. b. c. s. drifting. + 2 | 30.128 | +16 | b. m. b. Faint aurora, centre S.W. by S., + | | | alt. 15°; drifting; some streaks of aurora + | | | to the southward pointing to the zenith. + 3 | 30.134 | +18.5 | b. c. b. Much refraction; thermometer in house + | | | +11°; a beam of aurora to the south pointing + | | | to the zenith. + 4 | 30.023 | +15.6 | b. b. Hills much refracted; aurora faint; + | | | centre of arch S. by W.; alt. 10°; aurora in + | | | a narrow line parallel to horizon, alt. 4°, + | | | extent 70°, centre south. + 5 | 29.93 | +14.6 | b. c. m. drifting. + 6 | 30.04 | +14.6 | b. m. drifting. A faint aurora extending from + | | | S.S.E. across the zenith. + 7 | 29.861 | +12.6 | b. c. m. Mercury froze after two hours' + | | | exposure. + 8 | 29.8 | +11 | b. b. drifting. + 9 | 29.974 | | Much drift; could not get out to see + | | | thermometer, door being drifted up. + 10 | 29.139 | + 6 | o. o. Much drift; obliged to take the + | | | thermometers into the house, as the pillars + | | | of snow on which the posts were placed were + | | | nearly all blown away. + 11 | 29.193 | +10.5 | o. b. m. Much drift; a beam of aurora S.E.; + | | | alt. 25°. + 12 | 29.309 | +14.5 | b. m. Much drift; very faint aurora; centre + | | | W. by N.; alt. 10°. + 13 | 29.549 | +12.3 | b. m. drifting; a very faint aurora, centre + | | | S.S.W., alt. 16°; extent 60° or 70°. + 14 | 29.588 | +13 | b. c. m. drift; arch of aurora faint, + | | | alt. 11°, centre S.S.W., extent 90°. + 15 | 29.608 | + 7.6 | b. m. c. Streams of bright light shooting from + | | | the sun to the alt. of 5°. + 16 | 29.67 | + 7 | b. c. b. drifting, stratus; arch of aurora + | | | faint, centre south, alt. 18°, extent 60°. + | | | Centre S.S.W., alt. 12°, extent 90°. + 17 | 29.887 | +13 | b. m. drifting. Aurora visible, faint but + | | | brightest to the westward; centre S., + | | | alt. 60°. + 18 | 29.245 | + 6 | b. c. b. c. m. A very faint arch of aurora + | | | from the N.W. by N. extending across zenith. + 19 | 29.662 | + 7 | m. o. much drift; door drifted up. + 20 | 29.472 | +11 | o. q. much drift. + 21 | 29.60 | + 9.5 | b. m. much drift. + 22 | 29.445 | + 8 | b. m. o. s. o. m. q. s. o. q. drifting. + 23 | 29.273 | + 9.5 | o. m. much drift. + 24 | 29.366 | +10 | o. q. gale all night; much drift. + 25 | 29.83 | + 8 | b. m. drifting; solar halo with parhelia. + 26 | 30.035 | + 6.3 | b. A faint arch of aurora across zenith S.W. + | | | and N.E. + 27 | 29.911 | + 4.6 | b. c. b. c. s. o. m. o. s. + 28 | 29.908 | + 7.3 | b. m. drifting. Very cold to the sensation' + | | | spiculæ of snow falling; a broad band of + | | | aurora, the lower edge having a reddish or + | | | lake tint, running parallel to the horizon; + | | | alt. 2°, centre S.W., extent 70°; some + | | | beams of aurora S.E. pointing towards + | | | the zenith. + 29 | 29.954 | + 7.3 | b. m. + 30 | 29.737 | + 5.6 | o. b. c. m. s. b. c. s. + 31 | 29.714 | + 8 | b. c. m. Cirrus; drifting. + + + + + FORT HOPE, REPULSE BAY. + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for February, 1847._ + + +------+-------------------------------+--------------------------------- +Day | Temperature of the Atmosphere | +of | taken eight times | Prevailing Winds. +the | in twenty-four hours. | +Month.+----------+----------+---------+------------------------+-------- + |_Highest._| _Lowest._| _Mean._ | _Direction._ |_Force._ +------+----------+----------+---------+--------------------------------- + | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._| | + 1 | -29.8 | -38.5 | -33.6 | N.N.W. N.W. W. | 6-1 + 2 | -30.8 | -37.3 | -33.73 | N.W. Vble. W. Calm. N. | 0-1 + 3 | -29 | -35 | -31.53 | S.W. Calm. Vble. | 0-1 + 4 | -19 | -26.5 | -22.67 | Calm. Vble. Calm. | 0-1 + 5 | -14 | -20 | -16.71 | N.W. by S. | 4-6 + 6 | -14.7 | -22.5 | -17.5 | N. | 3-6 + 7 | -22.5 | -27 | -25.16 | Calm. N. by W. Calm. | 0-1 + 8 | -22.3 | -30.5 | -26.25 | N. by W. N.N.W. | 1-4 + 9 | -20 | -25.5 | -21.65 | N.W. N.W. by W. | 1-6 + 10 | -20 | -27 | -23.35 | N. Vbl. N. by W. | 0-2 + 11 | - 8.7 | -18.3 | -11.64 | W.N.W. N. by W. | 1-6 + 12 | -18 | -23.5 | -20.25 | N. by W. | 8-6 + 13 | -35.3 | -38 | -36.83 | N.N.W. N. by W. | 7-2 + 14 | -26 | -36.5 | -31 | N.W. | 6-3 + 15 | -37.5 | -42 | -39.83 | N. | 4-7 + 16 | -36.5 | -42 | -39.14 | N. by W. | 7-5 + 17 | -35.5 | -40.5 | -38.4 | N. N. by W. N.W. | 7-3 + 18 | -27.5 | -34.5 | -30.57 | N. N. by W. N.N.W. | 1-7 + 19 | -22 | -32.5 | -27.57 | N. Vble. S.S.E. | 4-1 + 20 | -22.5 | -27.5 | -25.3 | N. by W. N. N.N.W. | 7-4 + 21 | -19.5 | -27 | -22.83 | N.N.W. N. S.E. | 3-1 + 22 | -13 | -26.5 | -18.85 | N.N.W. | 1-5 + 23 | -23.5 | -31.5 | -26.57 | N.N.W. N. | 3-1 + 24 | -23 | -34.5 | -27.43 | W. W. by N. N. N.W. | 1-4 + 25 | - 9.5 | -27.5 | -20.2 | W. Calm. Vble. | 1-0 + 26 | - 9.3 | -22 | -13.5 | S.E. E. by N. N. | 1-2 + 27 | -24 | -27.5 | -25.54 | N.W. by N. N.N.W. | 4-6 + 28 | -34.5 | -40 | -39.2 | N.N.W. N.W. by W. | 6-3 + | | | ------ | | + | | | 746.85 | | + | | | ------ | | + | | | -26.68 | | + + ++------------------+---------------------------------------------------- +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. + +--------+---------+ + |_Barom._|_Thermo._| +----+--------+---------+------------------------------------------------ + 1 | 29.901 | + 7.6 | b. m. b.q. drifting. + 2 | 30.023 | + 5.3 | b. b. + 3 | 30.593 | + 2.6 | b. c. o. cirrus and cirro-stratus. + 4 | 30.219 | + 5 | b. c. + 5 | 30.339 | + 5.6 | b. c. q. much refraction; drifting. + 6 | 30.18 | +11. | b. c. m. b. c. drifting. + 7 | 30.??4 | +12. | b. c. cirrus; cloudy near horizon. + 8 | 30.418 | +10.3 | b. m. spiculæ. much refraction. + 9 | 30.432 | +12. | o. m. b. c. m. drifting; solar halo with + | | | parhelia; a faint arch of aurora. + 10 | 30.065 | + 8.3 | b. c. cirrus; some faint beams of aurora south + | | | and south-south-west (say south-west). + 11 | 29.865 | +12.6 | b. c. m. o. s. b. c. s. drifting. + 12 | 29.71 | +12. | b. m much drift. + 13 | 29.644 | +10.5 | b. m. b. drifting. + 14 | 29.65 | +10. | b. m. b. + 15 | 29.816 | +12.6 | b. b. m. b. drifting. + 16 | 29.899 | +13.3 | b. m. b. much drift. + 17 | 29.84 | + 7.6 | b. m. b. drifting. + 18 | 29.869 | + 7.3 | b. c. o. b. c. m. much drift. + 19 | 29.9 | + 6.7 | b. c. s. o. m. Solar halo with prismatic + | | | colours and parhelia. + 20 | 29.9 | + 8 | b. m. b. drifting. + 21 | 30.329 | + 7 | b. c. b. c. m. + 22 | 30.276 | + 9.6 | b. m. b. c. s. o. s. b. c. s. drifting. + 23 | 30.459 | + 9.3 | b. m. b. c. cirrus; Venus visible for the + | | | first time, the horizon having been too hazy + | | | to see her sooner. + 24 | 30.326 | + 7 | b. + 25 | 30.008 | + 6 | b. b. c. much refraction. + 26 | 30.221 | + 8.3 | b. m. c. b. c. s. + 27 | 30.146 | +12 | b. m. c. b. c. s. b. c. m. drifting along + | | | the ground. + 28 | 30.073 | +11 | b. m. drifting. + + + + + Fort Hope, Repulse Bay, + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for March, 1847._ + + +------+-------------------------------+--------------------------------- +Day | Temperature of the Atmosphere | +of | taken eight times | Prevailing Winds. +the | in twenty-four hours. | +Month.+----------+----------+---------+--------------------------+------ + |_Highest._| _Lowest._| _Mean._ | _Direction._ |Force. +------+----------+----------+---------+--------------------------+------ + | _deg. m._| _deg. m._|_deg. m._| | + 1 | -30.5 | -45 | -37.5 | N. by W. Chble. N.W. | 0-2 + | | | | by N. | + 2 | -30.5 | -40.5 | -35.4 | N.W. by N. N.N.W. | 2-4 + 3 | -30 | -37 | -33.7 | N.W. by N. N.N.W. | 4-7 + 4 | -27 | -38 | -32 | N. by W. N.W. by N. | 4-7 + 5 | -26 | -33 | -28.4 | N. by W. N.W. by N. | 8-6 + 6 | -27 | -33 | -29.4 | N. by W. | 8-4 + 7 | -27.5 | -37 | -33 | N.N. ½ E. | 7-5 + 8 | -25 | -31.5 | -27.5 | N. N. by W. N.N.W. | 7-9 + 9 | -20 | -30.5 | -25.3 | N.N.W. N.W. by N. | 4-2 + 10 | -21 | -33.5 | -27.2 | N.W. N.N.W. | 1-4 + 11 | -10.7 | -27.5 | -20 | N.W. by N. N. by W. | 1-3 + 12 | -19.5 | -30.5 | -23.7 | N.N.W. N. N. by W. | 8-10 + 13 | -15 | -19.5 | -16.5 | N.N.W. | 10-12 + 14 | -13.5 | -15 | -14.5 | N. by W. | 11-7 + 15 | -11 | -19 | -14.2 | N. N.N.W. | 8-5 + 16 | -7.7 | -19 | -11.7 | N.W. by N. N. by W. | 3-6 + 17 | -24 | -30 | -26.5 | N. W.N.W. W. | 1-6 + 18 | -18.7 | -37.5 | -29.1 | Calm. S.S.E. W. | 0-6 + 19 | -14 | -29.5 | -21.4 | W. Vble. | 2-1 + 20 | -23.5 | -32.5 | -29.1 | N.N.W. N. N. by W. | 6-4 + 21 | -23 | -29.5 | -25.9 | W.N.W. | 10-7 + 22 | -16 | -27 | -21.6 | N W. by N. W. | 6-1 + 23 | -16 | -33 | -22.6 | N.W. Chble. N. by W. | 1-6 + 24 | -29 | -33.5 | -30.9 | N. by W. N.N.W. | 9-7 + 25 | -27 | -35 | -30.4 | N. by W. N.N.W. | 7-9 + 26 | -26.5 | -35.5 | -30.6 | N. by W. | 6-8 + 27 | -24.5 | -34 | -28.1 | N. by W. N.N.W. | 6-8 + 28 | -26 | -35 | -30.2 | N. by W. | 2-7 + 29 | -22 | -33 | -26.37 | N.N.W. N. W.N.W. | 8-5 + 30 | -15 | -32 | -20.54 | N.W. N. by W. | 2-6 + 31 | -6 | -14 | -8.6 | N.N.W. N.W. by N. | 7-6 + | | | ------ | + | | | 811.91 | + | | | ------ | + | | | -28.1 | + + +----+----------------------+-------------------------------------------- +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. + +----------------------+ + | _Barom._ | _Thermo._ | +----+----------+-----------+-------------------------------------------- + 1 | 30.152 | + 4.3 | b. b. + 2 | 30.296 | + 4 | b. + 3 | 30.268 | + 4.6 | b. m. drifting. The wind between noon and + | | | 2 P.M. went round for a few minutes, and + | | | then went back to its old direction. + 4 | 30.399 | + 6.3 | b. m. drifting. + 5 | 30.492 | + 7 | b. m. b. c. m. much drift. + 6 | 30.63 | +11.3 | b. c. m. drifting. + 7 | 30.514 | +10.5 | b. m. drifting. + 8 | 30.232 | + 7.6 | b. c. m. much drift. + 9 | 30.194 | + 8 | b. b. c. + 10 | 30.179 | + 4 | b. b. c. cirrus. + 11 | 30.305 | + 4.7 | b. + 12 | 30.449 | + 9.7 | b. m. much drift. + 13 | 30.089 | + 7 | b. q. thick drift. + 14 | 30.07 | + 5 | b. m. q. b. c. m. much drift. + 15 | 30.886 | +13 | b. c. m. q. b. c. m. o. m. drifting. + 16 | 29.578 | +12 | o. s. b. c. s. b. c. drifting. + 17 | 29.814 | + 6.6 | b. c. b. q. drifting. + 18 | 29.99 | + 4.6 | b. c. m. Solar halo with prismatic + | | | colours; drifting. + 19 | 30.001 | + 5.6 | b. m. b. c. cirrus. + 20 | 29.569 | + 8 | b. m. b. c. m. + 21 | 29.372 | + 3 | o. s. o. m. b. m. drifting. + 22 | 29.673 | + 5 | b. c. m. q. cirrus. + 23 | 29.823 | + 6.7 | b. c. m. o. s. Spiculæ; halo with + | | | prismatic colours; drifting. + 24 | 29.854 | + 3.7 | b. m. b. c. m. much drift; door + | | | drifted up. + 25 | 29.899 | + .7 | b. m. c. m. much drift; door drifted up. + 26 | 30.196 | + 1.3 | b. c. m. drifting. + 27 | 30.046 | - .3 | b. m. b. c. m. drifting. + 28 | 30.161 | + 1 | b. m. c. drifting. + 29 | 30.142 | + 2 | b. m. drifting. + 30 | 30.182 | + 3.5 | b. c. m. o. m. drifting. + 31 | 30.867 | +10.6 | b. c. m. b. c. s. o. s. drifting. + + + + + FORT HOPE, REPULSE BAY. + --_Abstract of Meterological Journal for April, 1847._ + + ------+---------------------------------+------------------------------ + Day | Temperature of the Atmosphere | + of | taken eight times in twenty-four| Prevailing Winds. + the | hours. | + Month.+-----------+----------+----------+------------------------------ + |_Highest._ |_Lowest._ | _Mean._ | _Direction._ | Force. + ------+-----------+----------+----------+----------------------+------- + | _deg. m._ |_deg. m._ |_deg. m._ | | + 1 | -6.5 | -18.3 | -11.57 | N.W. by W. W. by N.| 3-6 + 2 | -0.5 | -21 | -9.03 | W. N.N.W. N.W. | 2-4 + 3 | +8 | -23.5 | -6.7 | Vble. Calm. | 1-0 + | | | | | + 4 | 0 | -13 | -4.5 | N.W. by N. N. | 2-1 + 5 | | | -10 | N. by W. | 5 + 6 | +11 | -20 | -5.3 | S. | 4 + 7 | +18 | -9 | +3.67 | | + 8 | +20 | -2 | +8.3 | | + 9 | +2 | -12 | -5 | N.N.W | + 10 | +19 | -15 | +3.66 | E. | + 11 | +10 | -15 | -1.6 | E. | + 12 | +16 | -17 | -2 | S. | + 13 | +21 | -11 | +5.3 | N.N.W. | + 14 | +15 | 0 | +6.6 | W. | + 15 | -7 | -17 | -11.3 | N.N.W. | 9 + 16 | -10 | -19 | -15.3 | N. | 9 + 17 | -8 | -22 | -16.3 | N. | + 18 | -2 | -20 | -12 | N.W. | + 19 | -5 | -25 | -13.7 | N.N.W. | + 20 | -5 | -20 | -12.67 | N. | + 21 | 0 | -22 | -10.3 | N.N.W. | + 22 | -8 | -22 | -13.3 | N. by W. | + 23 | +17 | -12 | +1.67 | Vble. | 2 + 24 | -6 | -10 | -4.3 | N.W. | + 25 | +7 | -2 | +1 | N. | + 26 | +5 | -10 | -1.6 | N.N.W. | + 27 | +8 | -5 | +2 | N.N.W. | + 28 | +10 | -3 | +4 | N.N.W. | + 29 | +11 | -1 | +4 | N.N.W. | + 30 | +20 | -1 | +9.6 | N. | + | +----------+ | | + | | 122.57 | | | + | +----------+ | | + | | -3.95 | | | + + +----+------------------+------------------------------------------------ +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. + +--------+---------+ + |_Barom._|_Thermo._| +----+--------+---------+------------------------------------------------ + 1 | 29.83 | + 10 | b. c. m. drifting. + 2 | 29.709 | | b. b. c. + 3 | 29.708 | + 4 | b. b. c. Barometer not registered after this. + | | | Thermometer with colourless ??? rose to 5° + | | | only, although freely exposed to the sun's + | | | rays. At 8 P.M. a faint aurora of an orange + | | | colour; centre south; alt. 5° + 4 | | | o. m. b. c. s. o.s. + 5 | | | o. s. + 6 | | | + 7 | | | + 8 | | | + 9 | | | + 10 | | | + 11 | | | + 12 | | | + 13 | | | much drift all day. + 14 | | | much drift. + 15 | | | + 15 | | | much drift and snow. + 17 | | | + 18 | | | thick drift and snow. Some partridges seen. + 19 | | | + 20 | | | drifting. + 21 | | | + 22 | | | + 23 | | | drifting thick. + 24 | | | + 25 | | | + 26 | | | snow and drift. + 27 | | | drifting. + 28 | | | drifting. + 29 | | | drifting. + 30 | | | drifting. + + + + + FORT HOPE, REPULSE BAY. + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for May, 1847._ + + +------+-----------------------------------+----------------------------- +Day | Temperature of the Atmosphere | +of | taken three times in | Prevailing winds +the | twenty-four-hours. | +Month.| | + +------------+-----------+----------+----------------------+------ + | _Highest._ | _Lowest._ | _Mean._ | _Direction._ |Force. +------+------------+-----------+----------+----------------------+------ + | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | | + 1 | +20 | + 4 | +11.6 | W. | + 2 | +20 | + 5 | +12 | N. | + 3 | +17 | + 4 | + 9.3 | N. by W. | + 4 | +10 | + 0 | + 3.3 | N.N.W. | + 5 | +10 | - 4 | + 3.67 | N.N.W. | + 6 | +20 | 0 | + 9.3 | Vble. Calm. | 1-2 + 7 | +24 | - 1.5 | +10.5 | S.E. E. | 2 + 8 | +23 | + 6 | +14.8 | Vble. E. S.S.E. | 1-3 + 9 | +26 | +16 | +18.5 | S.E. E. | 2-6 + 10 | +19.5 | +12 | +15.67 | E. by S. E.N.E. | 6-10 + 11 | +32.3 | +18.5 | +24.6 | S. by E. S.W. W.N.W. | 1-6 + 12 | +25.5 | +10 | +15.93 | N.W. | 2-6 + 13 | +25 | + 4.5 | +11.5 | W. | 7-6 + 14 | +33 | +18 | +23.3 | S.W. | + 15 | +17 | +10 | +12.67 | N. | + 16 | +15 | + 9 | +11.3 | N.W. | + 17 | +20 | +15 | +17 | W.N.W. | + 18 | +30 | +15 | +21.67 | N.W. | + 19 | +40 | +18 | +27.6 | S. | + 20 | +37 | +21 | +27.3 | N. | + 21 | +28 | +18 | +21.3 | N. | 11 + 22 | +22 | +16 | +18.3 | N. | 10 + 23 | +25 | +16 | +21 | N. | 10 + 24 | +33 | +26 | +28.66 | N.E. | + 25 | +43 | +23 | +30.67 | N.E. by N. | + 26 | +34 | +24 | +27.67 | N.N.E. | + 27 | +28 | +21 | +24.66 | N. | + 28 | +25 | +16 | +20 | N.W. | + 29 | +45 | +18 | +28 | S. | + 30 | +43 | +24 | +30.67 | S.E. | + 31 | +23 | +18 | +21 | N. | + | | +----------+ | + | | | 553.44 | | + | | +----------+ | + | | | +17.88 | | + + +----+--------------------+---------------------------------------------- +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | + +---------+----------+ Remarks on the Weather, &c. + |_Barom._ |_Thermo._ | +----+---------+----------+---------------------------------------------- + 1 | | | Newman's improved Cistern Barometer used. + | | | { Correction for capacities -1/34 + 2 | | | { Neutral point -30.302 + | | | { Capillary action +.042 + | | | { Temperature +60° + 3 | | | A snow bird was seen. + 4 | | | drifting. + 5 | | | drifting. + 6 | | | b. c. + 7 | | | o. s. b. c. s. + 8 | | | o. s. An inch of snow fallen. + 9 | | | o. s. o. o. + 10 | | | o. s. and drifting thick. + 11 | | | o. s. pools of water. Beautiful evening, + 12 | | | b. c. drifting. + 13 | | | b. c. o. m. + 14 | | | + 15 | | | fine weather. + 16 | | | thick weather. + 17 | | | + 18 | | | + 19 | | | + 20 | | | + 21 | | | Much snow drift. + 22 | | | Much snow and snow drift. + 23 | | | Much snow drift. + 24 | | | + 25 | | | + 26 | | | + 27 | | | Snow and drift until evening. + 28 | | | + 29 | | | + 30 | | | Cloudy with snow. + 31 | | | Strong gale with drift. + + + + + Fort Hope, Repulse Bay. + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for June, 1847._ + + +------+-----------------------------------+----------------------------- +Day | Temperature of the Atmosphere | +of | taken three times in | Prevailing winds +the | twenty-four-hours. | +Month.+------------+-----------+----------+---------------------+------- + | _Highest._ | _Lowest._ | _Mean._ | _Direction._ |Force. +------+------------+-----------+----------+---------------------+------- + | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | | + 1 | +25 | +12 | +19.3 | S. | + 2 | +35 | +17 | +25.3 | N. | + 3 | +26 | +14 | +20 | N. | + 4 | +32 | +14 | +21.7 | N.W. | + 5 | +29 | +18 | +22 | N.W. | + 6 | +43 | +21 | +28.3 | Vble. | + 7 | +28 | +18 | +22 | N. | + 8 | +30 | +16 | +22.7 | N. | + 9 | +38 | +24 | +30.6 | N.N.W. and Vble. | 3-5 + 10 | +39 | +26 | +31.3 | N. and N.N.E. | 1-3 + 11 | +34 | +28.5 | +30.8 | Vble. N. | 1-6 + 12 | +35 | +26.5 | +30.7 | N. by W. | 6-8 + 13 | +37 | +27 | +32.3 | N. | 5-7 + 14 | +40 | +29.5 | +34 | N. by E. | 2-4 + 15 | +43.5 | +26 | +35.5 | E. Vble. S.W. | 2-3 + 16 | +39.5 | +36 | +37.3 | N. N.W. | 4-2 + 17 | +37 | +30.5 | +34 | E. by S. S.E. | 3-1 + 18 | +38.5 | +32.5 | +34.67 | E. N.E. | 2-5 + 19 | +34.5 | +31 | +32.5 | N.N. by W. | 7-9 + 20 | +37 | +33.5 | +34.8 | W.N.W. | 10-11 + 21 | +45.5 | +33 | +37.66 | W. by N. S.E. | 9-6-5 + 22 | +40.5 | +32 | +35.1 | N. N.N.W. N.W. | 8-7 + 23 | +42 | +32.5 | +36.2 | W. N.W. | 6-4-2 + 24 | +46.5 | +33 | +38.73 | Calm. Vble. S.E. | 0-2 + 25 | +36.7 | +32.5 | +34.23 | E. by S. | 3-4 + 26 | +37 | +31.3 | +33.66 | E.S.E. E. by N. N.E.| 6-9 + 27 | +34.3 | +31 | +32.6 | N.W. W.N.W. | 10-11 + 28 | +34 | +31.5 | +32.83 | W. W. by N. W.N.W. | 9-8 + 29 | +37.3 | +33.7 | +35 | N.W. N.W. by W. | 10-8-0 + 30 | +41 | +32.3 | +35.6 | W.N.W. N.W. N. | 7-8 + | | +----------+ | + | | | 942.51 | | + | | +----------+ | + | | | +31.38 | | + + +----+------------------+----------------------------------------------- +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. + +--------+---------+ + |_Barom._|_Thermo._| +----+--------+---------+----------------------------------------------- + 1 | | | + 2 | | | + 3 | | | A strong gale. + 4 | | | + 5 | | | + 6 | | | + 7 | | | + 8 | | | + 9 | | | + 10 | | | b. c. m. Arrived at the house from our journey + | | | at 8h. 20m. A.M. by watch, or 7h. 20m. + | | | true time. + 11 | | | b. c. + 12 | | | o. s. + 13 | | | o. s. + 14 | | | o. p. s. + 15 | | | b. c. p. sleet. + 15 | | | b. c. + 17 | | | b. c. p. o. r. First rain this spring. + 18 | | | o. r. o. f. o. r. + 19 | | | s. o. r. o. + 20 | 29.480 | +37 | p. r. b. c. b. c. p. r. b. c. + 21 | 29.817 | +49 | b. c. q. o. r. + 22 | 30.289 | +40 | o. b. c. p. s. Showers of snow and sleet during + | | | the night. + 23 | 30.14 | +40.3 | o. b. c. Saw sun at midnight, lower limb + | | | touching the high ground. + 24 | 30.147 | +46.5 | b. c. + 25 | 30.04 | +40 | o. o. f. A few flakes of snow falling. + 26 | 29.68 | +38.7 | o. s. o. w. s. Half inch of snow during the + | | | night. Wet snow. + 27 | 29.273 | +37 | o. s. o. p. s. q. From 6 to 8 inches of snow + | | | during the night. + 28 | 29.39 | +35.6 | b. c. q. o. s. q. + 29 | 29.488 | +40 | o. p. s. q. b. c. q. b. c. p. s. + 30 | 29.61 | +38 | o. s. b. c. p. s. q. b. c. p. r. q. Wet snow. + + + + + Fort Hope, Repulse Bay. + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for July, 1847_ + + +------+-----------------------------------+----------------------------- +Day | Temperature of the Atmosphere | +of | taken three times in | Prevailing winds +the | twenty-four-hours. | +Month.+------------+-----------+----------+----------------------+------ + | _Highest._ | _Lowest._ | _Mean._ | _Direction._ |Force. +------+------------+-----------+----------+----------------------+------ + | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | | + 1 | +39 | +29.3 | +33.6 |N.N.W. N. by W. N. | 4-6 + 2 | +38 | +31.3 | +34.6 |N. N.W. by N. N.W. | 7-4 + 3 | +46.5 | +32 | +38.17 |W. Calm. | 7-6-0 + 4 | +35.5 | +33 | +34.1 |N.E. | 6-5-4 + 5 | +45.5 | +35 | +39.8 |W. | 5-3-6 + 6 | +46 | +34 | +39.17 |W.N.W. N. by W. Chble.| 7-0 + 7 | +49 | +38 | +43 |E. by S. S.E. Calm. | 2-4-0 + 8 | +51 | +35 | +42 |E. E.S.E. E. | 3-5-1 + 9 | +48.7 | +32.3 | +38.7 |N. Vble. E. | 5-2 + 10 | +41 | +35 | +37.17 |E.S.E. | 5-6 + 11 | +36 | +33 | +34.5 |E. by N. Calm. | 4-3-0 + 12 | +39.3 | +35 | +36.7 |N. N. by E. | 3-5-6 + 13 | +38 | +33.5 | +35.6 |N. by W. N. | 8-9 + 14 | +38 | +33.7 | +35.23 |N. | 9 + 15 | +42.5 | +34 | +37.2 |N. by W. | 9-10 + 16 | +39 | +35.3 | +37.7 |N. Calm. |10-7-0 + 17 | +46 | +36 | +42.5 |N.N.W. W. by N. | 8-5-3 + 18 | +43 | +35 | +39.5 |Vble. Calm. | 3-4-0 + 19 | +47.3 | +36 | +41.6 |N.W. | 5-6-3 + 20 | +55.5 | +41 | +46.9 |N.N.W. N.W. Calm. | 3-5-0 + 21 | +57 | +44 | +49.17 |N. Vble. N.N.W. | 4-1-3 + 22 | +47 | +40 | +42.5 |Calm. N.N.W. | 0-6-5 + 23 | +49.3 | +38.5 | +43.26 |N.N.W. N. N. by W. | 8-7-8 + 24 | +48 | +36.5 | +41.9 |N. N.W. by N. | 9-7-3 + 25 | +52 | +36 | +43.16 |N.W. Calm. | 6-4-0 + 26 | +43 | +38 | +40.2 |S.S.E. E.S.E. E. | 2-6 + 27 | +51.5 | +40 | +44.17 |N.E. Calm. | 5-3-0 + 28 | +60 | +45 | +51.8 |W. W.N.W. W. by S. | 2-3-2 + 29 | +53.5 | +47 | +50.2 |N. | 4-3-1 + 30 | +55 | +38.3 | +46.6 |W. by N. N. | 4-8-10 + 31 | +48 | +37.5 | +42.5 |N. by W. | 3-8-5 + | | +----------+ | + | | | 1285.4 | | + | | +----------+ | + | | | +41.46 | | + + +----+----------------------+-------------------------------------------- +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. + +----------+-----------+ + | _Barom._ | _Thermo._ | +----+----------+-----------+-------------------------------------------- + 1 | 29.786 | +39.83 | b. c. p.s. a little frost during the night. + 2 | 29.838 | +35.5 | b. c. + 3 | 29.986 | +46 | b. c. a beautiful night. + 4 | 29.864 | +40.3 | o. p. o. f. p. r. o. sleet. + 5 | 30.015 | +43 | b. c. + 6 | 30.124 | +42 | b. c. b. c. q. Ther. at midnight +35°; coat + | | | of ice on pools where there is snow. + 7 | 30.216 | +49.5 | b. c. + 8 | 30.185 | +46 | b. c. + 9 | 30.216 | +40.3 | o. b. c. o. + 10 | 30.024 | +42 | o. b. c. o. + 11 | 29.828 | +42 | p. r. f. o. f. w. o. Heavy rain during + | | | the night; wet fog and showers of rain. + 12 | 29.802 | +40 | o. f. p. r. o. w. f. + 13 | 29.938 | +39 | o. f. p. r. o. f. o. p. r. q. + 14 | 29.968 | +41.3 | r. o. b. c. o. + 15 | 29.905 | +41.7 | o. b. c. o. r. A great quantity of water + | | | coming down N. Pole River this morning; + | | | sleet. + 16 | 29.865 | +44.2 | p. w. s. q. o. s. b. c. Snow showers all + | | | night; ther. at 6 p.m. +45°. + 17 | 29.902 | +47.2 | o. b. c. at 5 p.m. Ther. at +54°. + 18 | | | b. c. b. c. o. + 19 | 29.716 | +48 | b. c. q. + 20 | 29.714 | +56 | b. c. + 21 | 29.776 | +54.5 | b. c. + 22 | 29.794 | +46.5 | o. b. c. p. r. b. c. + 23 | 29.791 | +46 | d. r. b. c. p. r. b. c. + 24 | 29.858 | +45.5 | b. c. + 25 | 29.967 | +53 | b. c. + 26 | 29.815 | +47.2 | b. c. b. c. q. + 27 | 29.917 | +49 | b. c. + 28 | 30.038 | +53.5 | b. c. + 29 | 30.113 | +56.8 | b. c. + 30 | 30.017 | +49 | b. c. p.r. The barometer fell some + | | | hundredths lower than when registered at + | | | 6 A.M., but immediately began to rise as + | | | soon as the wind changed to the north. + 31 | 30.102 | +51.5 | b. c. + + + + + FORT HOPE, REPULSE BAY. + -- _Abstract of Meteorological Journal for August, 1847._ + + +------+-----------------------------------+------------------------ +Day | Temperature of the Atmosphere | + of | taken three times in | Prevailing Winds. +the | twenty-four hours. | +onth. +------------+-----------+----------+--------------+--------- + | _Highest._ | _Lowest._ | _Mean._ | _Direction._ | _Force._ +------+------------+-----------+----------+--------------+--------- + | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | | + 1 | +52 | +40 | +44.8 | N. | 4-6-3 + 2 | +56 | +40 | +47.7 | N.N.W. | 6-2-1 + 3 | +49 | +44.5 | +46.2 | N.W. N.N.W. | 6-7-5 + 4 | +41 | +34.7 | +36.9 | N.N.W. N. | 9-8 + 5 | +54 | +34 | +62.5 | N. N. by W. | 7-6-3 + 6 | +50 | +46.5 | +49.8 | Vble. W.S.W. | 3 + 7 | +59.3 | +43.5 | +49.3 | S.W. Calm. | 4-5-0 + 8 | +49.5 | +42 | +45.5 | Vble. N.W. | 1-2-6 + 9 | +44.5 | +37 | +39.83 | N. N.W. | 8-6-4 + 10 | +37.5 | +35 | | N. | 9-10-8 + + + +----+----------------------+-------------------------------------------- + Day| Barometer and | + of | Thermometer | + the| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. +mont+----------+-----------+ + | _Barom._ | _Thermo._ | +----+----------+-----------+-------------------------------------------- + 1 | 30.054 | +56 | b. c. + 2 | 30.057 | +56.5 | b. c. + 3 | 30.051 | +48.5 | b. c. q. p. r.; at 5 P.M. a heavy squall + | | | and showers of rain. + 4 | 29.93 | +41.5 | b. c. q. p. s. + 5 | 30.169 | +46.5 | b. c.; frost last night. + 6 | 30.124 | +54 | b. c. Ther. at 5 P.M. +62°--; all the large + | | | and deep lakes still covered with ice. + 7 | 30.035 | +61 | b. c. q. + 8 | 29.806 | +54 | o. p. r. + 9 | 29.882 | +47 | b. c. q. + 10 | 29.732 | +43 | o. r. s. s. b. c. + + + + + _Figures and Letters used for denoting the state of the + Weather and the force of the Wind, as recommended by + Captain (now Admiral) Beaufort._ + + 0--Calm. + 1--Light air. + 2--Light breeze. + 3--Gentle breeze. + 4--Moderate breeze. + 5--Fresh breeze. + 6--Strong breeze. + 7--Moderate gale. + 8--Fresh gale. + 9--Strong gale. + 10--Whole gale. + 11--Storm. + 12--Hurricane. + + b.--Blue sky. + c.--Cloudy. + d.--Drizzling rain. + f.--Foggy. + g.--Gloomy dark weather. + h.--Hail + l.--Lightning + m.--Misty hazy atmosphere. + o.--Overcast. + p.--Passing temporary showers. + q.--Squally. + r.--Rain--continued rain. + s.--Snow. + t.--Thunder. + u.--Ugly, threatening appearance of the weather. + v.--Visibility of distant objects whether the sky be cloudy or not. + w.--Wet dew. + . --Under any letter indicates an extraordinary degree. + + +MARCHANT SINGER & CO., PRINTERS, INGRAM-COURT, FENCHURCH-STREET + + + + + LIBRARY OF + AUSTRALIAN TRAVELS, &c. + PUBLISHED BY T. AND W. BOONE, + 29, NEW BOND STREET. + + Now ready, in 2 vols. 8vo. with numerous Plates, some coloured, + NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION + INTO + CENTRAL AUSTRALIA, + + BY ORDER OF HER MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT, + DURING THE YEARS 1844, 5, 6, + + With Notices of the Colony of South Australia. + + BY CAPTAIN CHARLES STURT, + LATE 39TH REGT. + COLONIAL TREASURER, AND + AUTHOR OF "TWO EXPEDITIONS INTO SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA." + + +The character of the far Interior of Australia had long been a most +interesting geographical problem, many imagining the centre to be +occupied by a large inland sea, others conjecturing that it was an arid +desert, which opinion was further strengthened by Mr. Eyre's +unsuccessful endeavour to penetrate higher than the 29th degree of +latitude in his expedition during the years 1840 and 1. Captain Sturt, +so appropriately denominated the "Father of Australian Discovery," in +consequence of being the first traveller to explore the rivers Murray, +Murrumbidgee, Bogan, and Castlereagh, volunteered to conduct a party +into the interior to determine this important question. With the +approbation of Lord Stanley, the Colonial Minister, he accordingly +started in the year 1844, and, after a series of unparalleled +privations, succeeded in reaching the centre of the Continent in a line +direct north of Adelaide. The journal of this perilous Expedition gives +an account of the remarkable Stony Desert, the bed of Lake Torrens, +descriptions of the Natives and their villages, and the discovery of +several small rivers, &c.; added to which, his observations and +collections on the Natural History have since been arranged by R. Brown, +Esq. and J. Gould, Esq. in the form of an Appendix. + +"The details of this romantic and perilous Expedition are replete with +interest. From the numerous and lengthened expeditions he has +undertaken, and the general intelligence and scientific skill he brings +to bear upon the question, we know of no recent traveller in Australia +whose opinions are entitled to more weight.--The portion of the work +which refers to the Colony of South Australia is particularly valuable +to intending emigrants."--_Morning Herald._ + + + + + JOURNALS OF EXPEDITIONS OF DISCOVERY + IN + NORTH-WEST AND WESTERN AUSTRALIA, + DURING THE YEARS 1837, 1838, and 1839, + Under the Authority of her Majesty's Government. + + With Observations on the Agricultural and Commercial Capabilities + and Prospects of several newly-explored fertile Regions, including + + AUSTRALIND, + and on the Moral and Physical Condition of the Aboriginal + Inhabitants, &c. &c. + + BY GEORGE GREY, ESQ., LATE CAPTAIN 83RD REGT. + FORMERLY GOVERNOR OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA, NOW GOVERNOR OF NEW ZEALAND. + + _With Two large Maps by J. Arrowsmith, and numerous Illustrations, + some coloured, in 2 vols. 8vo._ + + +"It is not with the slightest hope of satisfying curiosity, or to +anticipate the interest which the public in general, and geographers +especially, always feel in enterprises of this nature, but merely to +give such a sketch of the principal features of the expedition us may +serve to direct those who are desirous of obtaining information +respecting a portion of this remarkable country--hitherto only visited +by Tasman, Dampier, Baudin, and King, and never before, we believe, +penetrated by an European--to look forward to the detailed journals of +the spirited officers who had the conduct of the expedition." +--_From Geographical Transactions._ + +A great portion of the country described in this Journal has never +before been visited by any European. The Eastern coast of Short's Bay +was for the first time seen and explored during the progress of these +expeditions. + +"We have rarely seen a more interesting book; it is full of splendid +description and startling personal adventure; written in a plain, manly, +unaffected style."--_Examiner._ + +"It is impossible to have perused these highly interesting and important +volumes without being inspired with feelings of warm admiration for the +indomitable perseverance and heroical self-devotion of their gallant and +enterprising author. Setting aside the vastly important results of +Captain Grey's several expeditions, it is hardly possible to conceive +narratives of more stirring interest than those of which his volumes are +for the most part composed."--_United Service Gazette._ + +"We have not read such a work of Travels for many years; it unites the +interest of a romance with the permanent qualities of an historical and +scientific treatise."--_Atlas._ + +"We recommend our readers to the volumes of Captain Grey, assuring them +they will derive both amusement and instruction from the +perusal."--_Times._ + +"This is a work deserving high praise. As a book of Travels it is one of +the most interesting we remember to have met with."--_Westminster +Review._ + +"A book which should be in every lending library and book-club." +--_Englishman's Magazine._ + +"The contents of these interesting volumes will richly repay an +attentive perusal." +--_Emigration Gazette._ + +"These narratives are replete with interest, and blend information and +amusement in a very happy manner."--_Australian Magazine._ + + + + +Just published, in 1 vol. 8vo. with Plates and Woodcuts, + +JOURNAL +OF AN +OVERLAND EXPEDITION IN AUSTRALIA, +FROM +MORETON BAY TO PORT ESSINGTON. + +_A distance of upwards of 3000 miles._ + +BY DR. LUDWIG LEICHHARDT. + +N.B. A large 3 sheet Map of the Route by J. Arrowsmith is published, and +to be had separately in a Case, price 9_s._ + + +OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. + +"A work of unquestionable merit and utility, and its author's name will +justly stand high upon the honourable list of able and enterprising men, +whose courage, perseverance, and literary abilities have contributed so +largely to our knowledge of the geography and productions of our distant +southern colonies."--_Blackwood's Mag._ + +"For the courage with which this lengthened and perilous journey was +undertaken, the skill with which it was directed, and the perseverance +with which it was performed, it is almost unrivalled in the annals of +exploring enterprise. It richly deserves attention."--_Britannia._ + +"The narrative in which he relates the results of this remarkable +journey, and the extraordinary fatigues and privations endured by +himself and his fellow travellers, is not merely valuable for its facts, +but full of absorbing interest as a journal of perilous +adventures."--_Atlas._ + +"The volume before us comprises the narrative of one of the most +remarkable enterprises ever planned by man's sagacity and executed by +man's courage and endurance. To our minds there is in every point of +view an inexpressible charm in such a book as this. It not merely +narrates to us the opening of a new material world for human enterprise +and scientific investigation, but it makes more clearly known to us the +wondrous powers and capacities of human nature. We recommend it to our +readers as a work scarcely less remarkable for the extraordinary +enterprise recorded in it, than for the simplicity and modesty with +which it is related."--_Morning Herald._ + +"The result of his enterprise was thoroughly successful. It has added +not a little to our existing stock of knowledge in the various +departments of natural history, and has made discovery in districts +before untrodden, of an almost boundless extent of fertile +country."--_Examiner._ + +"The most striking feature in the expedition is its successful +accomplishment, which is of itself sufficient to place Dr. L. in the +first rank of travellers. How much Dr. L. has added to geographical +discovery can only be felt by an examination of the admirable maps which +accompany the volume. These have been deduced on a large scale from the +traveller's sketches by Mr. Arrowsmith, and engraved with a distinctness +of execution, and a brief fulness of descriptive remark which leave +nothing to be desired."--_Spectator._ + + + + + _Lately published, in 2 vols. 8vo. cloth, with 8 Maps and Charts, + and 57 Illustrations_ + BY COMMAND OF THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY. + + DISCOVERIES IN AUSTRALIA + OF THE + VICTORIA, ADELAIDE, ALBERT, AND FITZROY RIVERS, + AND EXPEDITIONS INTO THE INTERIOR; + DURING THE + VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BEAGLE, + BETWEEN THE YEARS 1837 AND 1843: ALSO + + A NARRATIVE OF THE VISITS OF H.M.S. BRITOMART, + COMMANDER OWEN STANLEY, R.N., F.R.S. + _TO THE ISLANDS IN THE ARAFURA SEA_. + BY CAPT. J. LORT STOKES, R.N. + + +"The whole narrative is so captivating, that we expect to find the work +as much in demand at circulating libraries as at institutions of graver +pretensions."--_Colon. Gaz._ + +"We have to thank Capt. Stokes for a most valuable work, one that will +place his name by the side of Vancouver, Tasman, Dampier, and +Cook."--_New Quar. Review._ + +"The science of Navigation owes a deep debt to Captain Stokes. The +information contained in the present volumes must render them an +invaluable companion to any ship performing a voyage to that part of the +world."--_Foreign Quarterly Review._ + +"Every part of it is full of matter, both for the general and scientific +reader. With the acts of throwing the lead, taking angles, &c. lively +anecdotes and pleasing ideas are constantly associated, so that we very +much doubt whether any reader will lay aside the book, large as it is, +without regret. In some parts you have all the breathless excitement of +a voyage of discovery, and sail up new rivers, and explore new lands, +while elsewhere your thoughts are directed to the tracks of commerce and +political speculation. Altogether the work is a charming specimen of +nautical literature, written in a pure, flexible, terse, and elegant +style, and bespeaks everywhere in the author a mind endued with very +high moral and intellectual qualities."--_Fraser's Mag._ + +"While these volumes must prove of great value to the maritime +profession, to the geographer, and to emigrants, they cannot fail to be +perused with interest by readers in general."--_Athenæum._ + +"We cannot, in noticing these two ably written and interesting volumes, +insist too strongly upon their importance alike to the mariner, the +geographer, and the general reader. The author is a man of considerable +merit, a shrewd observer of men and things, and who was fitted by nature +and inclination to conduct these researches into the vast unknown +continent whither he proceeded with enterprise and spirit. These volumes +contain a fund of interesting matter, and we warmly recommend this +valuable addition to our literary and scientific stores to the attention +of the public."--_Sentinel._ + +"The contents of these volumes, rich, varied and full of interest, will +be their best recommendation. For scientific accuracy, they will be +highly valued by the geographer and navigator, while they will be read +for mere amusement by the public at large."--_Sunday Times._ + + + + + THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO. + + _By Permission of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty._ + Now ready, in 2 vols. 8vo. with numerous Maps, Plates, and Woodcuts, + + NARRATIVE + OF THE + SURVEYING VOYAGE OF H.M.S. FLY, + UNDER THE COMMAND OF + CAPTAIN BLACKWOOD, R. N. + IN TORRES STRAIT, NEW GUINEA, AND OTHER ISLANDS + IN THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO; + + TOGETHER + WITH AN EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR + OF THE + EASTERN PART OF THE ISLAND OF JAVA, + DURING THE YEARS 1842 TO 1846. + + BY J. BEETE JUKES, M. A. + NATURALIST TO THE EXPEDITION. + + + OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. + +"We must congratulate Mr. Jukes on the value of his publication. +Scientific without being abstruse, and picturesque without being +extravagant, he has made his volumes a striking and graceful addition to +our knowledge of countries highly interesting in themselves, and +assuming hourly importance in the eyes of the people of +England."--_Blackwood's Magazine._ + +"To transcribe the title-page of this book is sufficient to attract +public curiosity towards it--to peruse the book itself is to be rewarded +with the knowledge of a mass of information in which complete confidence +can be reposed, for, from the first page to the last, it is apparent +that the main object with Mr. Jukes is to tell all that he knows and +believes to be true, rather than to win favour from his readers by his +manner of telling it. There is not a pretty phrase, an exaggeration, nor +an invention in the two volumes of Mr. Jukes; all is plain unadorned +fact, and because it is so, is deserving, not merely of perusal, but of +study. Such are the recommendations of Mr. Jukes' pages to the public, +and all who desire to see truth united with novelty will peruse +them."--_Morning Herald._ + +"Mr. Jukes has been most judicious in his selection of topics whereon to +dwell in his narrative, and he describes with great vivacity and +picturesque power. There is much novelty and freshness in his book, and +much valuable information."--_Daily News._ + +"There are very few pages in the work which are not readable and +entertaining."--_Morning Post._ + +"Captain Blackwood having waived his right of authorship, the narrative +of the voyage has been undertaken by Mr. Jukes, favourably known by an +agreeable and informing book on Newfoundland, nor will the present work +detract from his reputation. The narrative is well planned, pleasantly +written, and full of matter."--_Spectator._ + +"A great deal was seen, and Geography, Topography, Geology, Natural +History, Ethnology, Philology, and Commerce may all be benefited by the +work before us."--_Literary Gazette._ + +"Mr. Jukes has performed his portion of the work with great ability, +sparing no pains in the working up of his abundant material, so as to +make it a book of science, as well as a book of amusement."--_Critic._ + +"Although a professed man of science, he has described what he saw in a +lucid and untechnical manner, so that his work will be found interesting +to the ordinary reader, while it is equally valuable to the scientific. +The amount of information conveyed is very great."--_Midland Herald._ + + + + + In 3 vols. 8vo. with Maps and numerous Plates, + + JOURNALS OF EXPEDITIONS OF DISCOVERY + INTO + CENTRAL AUSTRALIA, + AND + OVERLAND FROM ADELAIDE TO KING GEORGE'S SOUND, + IN THE YEARS 1840-1; + + _Sent by the Colonists of South Australia_, + WITH THE SANCTION AND SUPPORT OF THE GOVERNMENT: + INCLUDING + An Account of the Manners and Customs of the Aborigines, and the + state of their relations with Europeans. + + BY EDWARD JOHN EYRE, + RESIDENT MAGISTRATE, MURRAY RIVER, NOW LIEUT.-GOVERNOR OF NEW ZEALAND. + +*** _The Founder's Medal of the Royal Geographical Society was awarded +to Mr. Eyre for the discovery of Lake Torrens, and explorations of far +greater extent in Australia than any other traveller, a large portion +never having been previously traversed by civilized man._ + +"His narrative of what he did and overcame, is more like the stirring +stories of Park and Bruce than the tame and bookish diffuseness of +modern travellers. Nothing short of a perusal of the volumes can enable +our readers to appreciate this book."--_Spectator._ + +"We might easily extract much more from Mr. Eyre's volumes of interest +to the reader, but our limits circumscribe us. We therefore bid farewell +to them, with the recommendation to the public, not to overlook a work +which, though it records the failure of a great enterprize, is yet full +of matter, which proclaims it of value."--_Atlas._ + +"Mr. Eyre writes with the plain unaffected earnestness of the best of +the old travellers."--_Examiner._ + +"An intensely interesting book."--_Tablet._ + +"We must now close these interesting volumes, not, however, without +expressing our high approval both of the matter they contain, and of the +manner of their compilation. We rise from the perusal of them with a +feeling similar to that which follows the enjoyment of a pleasant work +of fiction."--_Critic._ + + + + + In 1 vol. 8vo. cloth, with large Map by Arrowsmith, and numerous + Illustrations, + + SOUTH AUSTRALIA AND ITS MINES, + + _With an Historical Sketch of the Colony, under its several + Administrations, to the Period of Captain Grey's Departure_. + + BY FRANCIS DUTTON. + +"The best work which has yet issued from the press, descriptive of the +resources and management of this thriving colony."--_Mining Journal._ + +"We have here a well-timed book. South Australia and Its Mines are now +objects of great interest; and Mr. Dutton's plain, unadorned recital, +contains just what the intending emigrant, or the mercantile inquirer, +will rejoice at having placed within his reach."--_Colonial Gazette._ + + + COLONIZATION; + PARTICULARLY IN SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA, + WITH SOME REMARKS ON SMALL FARMS AND OVER POPULATION. + + BY MAJOR-GENERAL SIR CHARLES JAMES NAPIER, K.C.B. + Author of "The Colonies; particularly the Ionian Islands" + + In 1 vol. 8vo. price 7_s._ boards. + +"We earnestly recommend the book to all who feel an interest in the +welfare of the people."--_Sun._ + + + _In 1 vol. post 8vo. price 5s. 6d._ + + HINTS FOR AUSTRALIAN EMIGRANTS, + + WITH + ENGRAVINGS AND EXPLANATORY DESCRIPTIONS + OF THE WATER RAISING WHEELS, + AND MODES OF IRRIGATING LAND IN SYRIA, EGYPT, SOUTH AMERICA, ETC. + + BY PETER CUNNINGHAM, + SURGEON, R.N. + _Author of "Two Years in New South Wales," &c._ + +"The mere name of Mr. Cunningham affords an ample guarantee for the +value of any work to which it may be prefixed; and, "to all whom it may +concern," we can confidently recommend this remarkably neat little +volume as replete with practical information. Its numerous illustrative +engravings in wood are executed in a very superior style."--_Naval and +Military Gazette, October 23rd, 1841._ + + + + + In 1 vol. 8vo. Map and Plates, cloth, price 12_s._ + + AUSTRALIA, + FROM PORT MACQUARIE TO MORETON BAY, + + WITH + _Descriptions of the Natives, their Manners and Customs, the Geology, + Natural Productions, Fertility, and Resources of that Region_. + + First explored and surveyed by order of the Colonial Government. + BY CLEMENT HODGKINSON. + +"The work before our consideration contains certain details connected +with the portion of Australia, described in it, which will prove of +first-rate importance to the colonist and emigrant, since they are +evidently derived from practical experience. Throughout this +unpretending little work we trace great honesty of purpose, and a +disposition to state no more than the bare facts as they presented +themselves."--_New Quarterly Review._ + + + _Just published, in 2 vols. 8vo. with a large Map_, + + AN HISTORICAL, + POLITICAL, AND STATISTICAL ACCOUNT + OF THE + ISLAND OF CEYLON. + + BY CHARLES PRIDHAM, ESQ. + AUTHOR OF + "THE MAURITIUS AND ITS DEPENDENCIES." + +"----All these events will be found fully set forth in the volumes under +notice, which are certainly far superior as a history of Ceylon to any +other that has yet appeared. The reader will also find in these pages +curious and original information respecting the habits, manners and +customs of the Cingalese, which he may look for in vain in similar +publications. Every portion of this valuable work teems with information +of a precise and important character."--_Observer._ + +"Those who seek information on the subject of Ceylon, will find his book +a great storehouse of facts."--_Economist._ + + + + + JUST PUBLISHED, + + A SERIES OF TEN COLOURED VIEWS, + TAKEN DURING THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF HER MAJESTY'S SHIPS + ENTERPRISE and INVESTIGATOR, + UNDER THE COMMAND OF + CAPTN. SIR JAMES C. ROSS, KT. F. R. S., + IN SEARCH OF + CAPTN. SIR JOHN FRANKLIN, KT. K.C.H., + + =Drawn by Lieut. W. H. BROWNE=, R.N. + LATE OF H. M. S. ENTERPRISE, + + With a Summary of the Arctic Expeditions in search of Sir John + Franklin. + + Dedicated, by Special Permission, + TO THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY. + + Price, in a Cover 16s. + Handsomely bound 21s. + + LONDON. + ACKERMANN & CO., 96, STRAND, + By Appointment to H. M. THE QUEEN, H. R. H. PRINCE ALBERT, + H. R. H. THE DUCHESS OF KENT, and the ROYAL FAMILY. + + + + +OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. + + +----The extreme interest evinced by the public would be likely to secure +a welcome for these views if their execution had been less felicitous +than it is. The Party arriving at the Southern Depôt is fearfully +grand.----ATHENÆUM. + +----Such are these ten extraordinary views; revealing scenes which are +enough to appal the stoutest hearts. We seem to ask of these mountains +of thick-ribbed ice "are our countrymen hidden from us by your fantastic +forms?" &c.----LITERARY GAZETTE. + +----We do not remember ever being so powerfully impressed with the +sublimity of portfolio drawings as with some of these views of the _icy +Polar Regions_ of the trackless North.----UNITED SERVICE GAZETTE. + +----We do not speak of it as a work of art merely, but of the evident +truth of delineation, of local colouring, and atmospheric +effects.----GLOBE. + +----This is a work which will no doubt meet with general +patronage--giving a vivid idea of the frozen regions.----BELL'S LIFE. + +----Ten of the most interesting views which scenery can +furnish.----ATLAS. + +----Perhaps the most attractive, as well as most effective, is _Noon in +Mid-Winter_, and conveys the most solemn notions of the _Polar Regions_. +This portfolio is the novelty of the season.----CRITIC. + + + + +[Illustration: + + DISCOVERIES OF THE + HON^{BLE}. HUDSON'S BAY CO^S. ARCTIC EXPEDITION + TO THE NORTH OF REPULSE BAY; + Conducted by JOHN RAE ESQ^R. 1846 & 1847; + Shewing in connection, the Discoveries made by + PARRY, ROSS, BACK, + & the Hon^{ble}. Company's Expedition Conducted by + DEASE & SIMPSON 1838-1839. + + _Adjusted & Drawn by_ + John Arrowsmith + + _London, Pub^d. Jan^y. 1^{st}. 1848, by John Arrowsmith, 10 Soho + Square._ + + _Discoveries of The Hon^{ble}. Hudson's Bay Co^s. Expeditions + are Col^d._ _Red_ + _D^o._ _of Sir Edward Parry_ _Purple_ + _D^o._ _of Sir John Ross_ _Yellow_ + _D^o._ _of Sir George Back_ _Green_] + + + + + * * * * * * + + + + +Transcriber's note: + +Obvious punctuation errors were corrected. + +Hyphen removed: a[-]head (p. 25), along[-]shore (p. 11), lime[-]stone +(pp. 107, 127). + +Hyphen added: snow[-]drift (pp. 160, 166). + +The following words appear with and without hyphens with similar +frequency and have not been changed: Chief[-]Factor, day[-]light, +foot[-]marks, in[-]doors, rein[-]deer. + +Native names have not been changed and appear with inconsistent +hyphenation. + +Chapter V contents: "North-pole" changed to "North Pole". + +Pp. vi, 61: "chace" changed to "chase" (Produce of the chase). + +P. viii: "CHAP. VIII" changed to "CHAPTER VIII". + +P. 11: "Canada mithatch" changed to "Canada nuthatch". + +P. 17: "excursons" changed to "excursions" (by making excursions). + +P. 30: "direcrection" changed to "direction" (east and west direction). + +P. 66: "Ivitchuck" changed to "Ivitchuk". + +P. 68: "lide" changed to "line" (line of declination). + +P. 113: added "to" (next to my skin). + +P. 136: "threugh" changed to "through" (the late journey safety +through). + +P. 163: "dissappeared" changed to "disappeared" (in many places, +entirely disappeared). + +P. 201: "fluffly" changed to "fluffy" (much shorter and less fluffy). + +P. 202: "Seiurius" changed to "Seiurus". + +P. 209: "p." inserted before "200" in item 56. + +Pp. 218-223: The table entitled "Dip of the needle and force of magnetic +attraction..." was reformatted and abbreviations were used to fit within +a reasonable width. + +Pp. 224-247: Each pair of pages is one table but the two pages are +presented one after the other. An additional column with the days of the +month has been added to the second page of each pair. + +P. 231: "Speculæ" changed to "Spiculæ" (Spiculæ of snow falling). + +P. 235: The digits in the seventh entry are missing. + +P. 239: word following "colourless" is missing. + +Ad p. 4: "57 Illustration" changed to "57 Illustrations". + +Ad p. 5: "thau" changed to "than" (rather than to win favour). + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION TO THE +SHORES OF THE ARCTIC SEA IN 1846 AND 1847*** + + +******* This file should be named 39917-8.txt or 39917-8.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/9/9/1/39917 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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