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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/39917-8.txt b/39917-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e598867 --- /dev/null +++ b/39917-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8199 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Narrative of an Expedition to the Shores of +the Arctic Sea in 1846 and 1847, by John Rae + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Narrative of an Expedition to the Shores of the Arctic Sea in 1846 and 1847 + + +Author: John Rae + + + +Release Date: June 5, 2012 [eBook #39917] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION TO THE +SHORES OF THE ARCTIC SEA IN 1846 AND 1847*** + + +E-text prepared by Moti Ben-Ari and the Online Distributed Proofreading +Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made available by +Internet Archive (http://archive.org). The maps were scanned by the +University of Manitoba Libraries (http://umanitoba.ca/libraries) + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 39917-h.htm or 39917-h.zip: + (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/39917/39917-h/39917-h.htm) + or + (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/39917/39917-h.zip) + + + Images of the original pages are available through + Internet Archive. See + http://archive.org/details/cihm_39502 + + +Transcriber's note: + + A single character following a carat is superscripted + (example: ESQ^R). When multiple characters are + superscripted they are enclosed by curly brackets + (example: Hon^{ble}). + + + + + +NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION TO THE SHORES OF THE ARCTIC SEA +IN 1846 AND 1847. + +by + +JOHN RAE, + +Hudson Bay Company's Service, Commander of the Expedition. + +With Maps. + + + + + + + +London: +T. & W. Boone, 29, New Bond Street. +1850. + +Marchant Singer and Co., Printers, Ingram-Court, +Fenchurch-Street. + + + + + TO + SIR GEORGE SIMPSON, + _Governor-in-Chief of Rupert's Land_, + THE ZEALOUS PROMOTER OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY, + THIS VOLUME IS INSCRIBED + AS A TRIBUTE OF RESPECT AND REGARD + BY THE AUTHOR. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + PAGE + CHAPTER I. + + Object and plan of the Expedition--Equipment at York + Factory--Boats--Crews--Articles useful in an Arctic + Voyage--Breaking up of the ice in Hayes and Nelson + Rivers--Departure from York Factory--Progress retarded by the + ice--First night at sea--Reflections--Rupert's Creek--Unbroken + fields of ice--Broad River--Description of the Coast--Double + Cape Churchill--Open sea to the north and north-west--Arrive at + Churchill--White whales--Mode of catching them--Sir George + Simpson's instructions--Stock of provisions 1 + + CHAPTER II. + + Depart from Churchill--A gale--Anchor in Knap's Bay--Land on an + island--Esquimaux graves--Visited by Esquimaux--A large river + running into Knap's Bay--Nevill's Bay--Corbet's Inlet--Rankin's + Inlet--Cape Jalabert--Greenland whales seen--Chesterfield + Inlet--Walruses--Cape Fullerton--Visited by an + Esquimaux--Reefs--Cape Kendall seen--Ice packed against the + shore--Take shelter in an excellent harbour--River + traced--Seals--Gale--Ice driven off--Direction of the tides + reversed--Whale Point--Many whales seen--Again stopped by the + pack--Wager River estuary--Ice drifts--Eddy currents--No second + opening into Wager River seen--Enter Repulse Bay--Interview with + Esquimaux--No intelligence of Sir John Franklin 19 + + CHAPTER III. + + Receive a visit from a female party--Their persons and dress + described--Crossing the Isthmus--Drag one of the boats up a + stream--Succession of rapids--North Pole Lake--Find a plant fit + for fuel--Christie Lake--Flett Portage--Corrigal + Lake--Fish--Deer-scaring stones--White wolf--Stony + Portage--View of the sea--Exploring party sent in advance--Their + report--Long Portage--Difficult tracking--Miles Lake--Muddy + Lake--Rich pasturage and great variety of flowers on its + banks--Marmot burrows--Salt Lake--Visit Esquimaux + tents--Discouraging report of the state of the ice--Esquimaux + chart--Reach the sea--Ross inlet--Point Hargrave--Cape Lady + Pelly--Stopped by the ice--Put ashore--Find a sledge made of + ship-timber--Thick fog--Wolves--Walk along the shore--Remains of + musk-cattle and rein-deer--Nature of the coast--Danger from the + ice--Irregular rise of the tide--Deer on the ice--Fruitless + efforts to proceed northward--Cross over to Melville + Peninsula--Gale--Again stopped by the ice--Dangerous position of + the boat--Return to starting point--Meeting with our Esquimaux + friends at Salt Lake--Deer begun to migrate southward--Walk + across the isthmus to Repulse Bay 38 + + CHAPTER IV. + + State of things at Repulse Bay--Determine to discontinue the + survey till the spring--Reasons--Party sent to bring over the + boat--Fix on a site for winter residence--Ptarmigan--Laughing + geese--Eider and king ducks--Visits of natives too + frequent--Return of the party sent for the boat--Report the bay + more closely packed than before--Preparations for + wintering--Fort Hope built--Proceed to North Pole and Christie + Lakes to look out for fishing stations--Purchase dogs--Wariness + of the deer--Flocks of geese pass southward--Blue-winged and + snow-geese--Their habits--Snow-storm--Its effects--Return to + Fort Hope--Daily routine--Signs of winter--Deer + numerous--Quantity of game killed--Provision-store built of + snow--Great fall of snow--Effects of the cold--Adventure with a + deer--Visited by a party of natives--Their report of the ice + westward of Melville Peninsula--An island said to be + wooded--Produce of the chase in October--Temperature--Two + observatories built of snow--Band of wolves--A party caught in a + snow-storm--Esquimaux theory of the heavenly bodies--Temperature + of November--Diminished supply of provisions 61 + + CHAPTER V. + + Winter arrangements completed--Learn to build + snow-houses--Christmas-day--North Pole River frozen to the + bottom--1st January--Cheerfulness of the men--Furious + snow-storm--Observatories blown down--Boat buried under the + snow--Ouligbuck caught in the storm--Dog attacked by a + wolf--Party of natives take up their residence near Fort + Hope--Esquimaux mentioned by Sir John Ross known to them--Boat + dug out of the snow--A runaway wife--Deer begin to migrate + northward--A wolf-chase--First deer of the season + shot--Difficulty of deer-hunting in spring--Dimensions of an + Esquimaux canoe--Serious accident to Ouligbuck--A + conjuror--Preparations for the journey + northward--Temperature--Aurora Borealis 81 + + CHAPTER VI. + + Set out for the north--Equipment of the + party--Snow-blindness--Musk-ox--Mode of killing it--Reach the + coast near Point Hargrave--Ice rough along shore--Pass Cape Lady + Pelly--Unfavourable weather--Slow progress--Put on short + allowance--River Ki-ting-nu-yak--Pemmican placed _en + cache_--Cape Weynton--Colvile Bay--High hill--Dogs giving + way--Work increased--Snow-house-building--Point Beaufort--Point + Siveright--Keith Bay--Cape Barclay--Another _cache_--Leave the + coast and proceed across the land--River A-ma-took--Dogs knocked + up--Lake Ballenden--Harrison islands--Party left to procure + provisions--Proceed with two of the men--Cape Berens--Relative + effects of an eastern and western aspect--Halkett Inlet--Reach + Lord Mayor's Bay--Take formal possession of the + country--Commence our return to winter quarters--Friendly + interview with the natives--Obtain supplies of provisions from + them--View of Pelly Bay--Trace the shore to the eastward--Travel + by night--Explore the coast of Simpson's Peninsula--Arrive at + Fort Hope--Occurrences during the absence of the exploring + party--Character of the Esquimaux Ivitchuk 97 + + CHAPTER VII. + + Preparations for exploring the coast of Melville + Peninsula--Outfit--Leave Fort Hope--Pass over numerous + lakes--Guide at fault--Dease Peninsula--Arrive at the + sea--Fatigue party sent back to Fort Hope--Barrier of + ice--Lefroy Bay--Large island named after the Prince of + Wales--Detained by stormy weather--Short allowance--Cape Lady + Simpson--Selkirk Bay--Snow knee-deep--Capes Finlayson and + Sibbald--Deer shot--A cooking scene--Favourite native + relish--Again stopped by stormy weather--Cape M'Loughlin--Two + men left to hunt and fish--Cape Richardson--Chain of + islands--Garry Bay--Prince Albert range of hills--Cape + Arrowsmith--Coast much indented--Baker Bay--Provisions + fail--Proceed with one man--Cape Crozier--Parry Bay--Cape + Ellice, the farthest point seen--Take possession--Commence our + return--No provisions procured by the men left behind--Short + commons--Flock of cranes--Snow-blindness--Arrive at Repulse Bay 137 + + CHAPTER VIII. + + Occurrences at Fort Hope during the absence of the exploring + party--Remove from winter quarters to tents--Sun seen at + midnight--Build an oven and bake bread--Esquimaux method of + catching seals--A concert--Lateness of the summer--A native + salmon-wear--Salmon spear--Boulders on the surface of the + ice--Visited by a native from the Ooglit Islands--His report of + occurrences at Igloolik--Indolence of the natives--Ice breaking + up--Halkett's air-boat--A storm--The ice dispersed--Prepare for + sea 165 + + CHAPTER IX. + + Voyage from Repulse Bay to York Factory 178 + + APPENDIX. + + List of Mammalia 199 + ---- Birds 201 + ---- Fishes 204 + ---- Plants 205 + + Specimens of Rocks 215 + + Dip of the needle and force of magnetic attraction at various + stations along the west shore of Hudson's Bay, and at Fort Hope, + Repulse Bay 218 + + Abstract of Meteorological Journal from September, 1846, to + August, 1847 224 + + Figures and Letters used for denoting the state of the weather, + &c. 248 + + + + +[Illustration: _The Discoveries made by The Hon^{ble}. Hudson's Bay +C^{os}. Arctic Expeditions, between the Years 1837 & 1847. are Coloured +Red_ + + NORTHERN AMERICA + + DISCOVERIES + of the + HON^{BLE}. HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY'S + ARCTIC EXPEDITION + in + 1838 & 1839. + +_John Arrowsmith_] + + + + + NARRATIVE, + ETC. ETC. + + +CHAPTER I. + + Object and plan of the Expedition--Equipment at York + Factory--Boats--Crews--Articles useful in an Arctic + Voyage--Breaking up of the ice in Hayes and Nelson + Rivers--Departure from York Factory--Progress retarded by the + ice--First night at sea--Reflections--Rupert's Creek--Unbroken + fields of ice--Broad River--Description of the coast--Double + Cape Churchill--Open sea to the north and north west--Arrive at + Churchill--White whales--Mode of catching them--Sir George + Simpson's instructions--Stock of provisions. + + +It is already well known to those who take an interest in Arctic +discovery, that the Hudson's Bay Company intended fitting out an +expedition in 1840, which was to have proceeded to the northern shores +of America by Back's Great Fish River, for the purpose of tracing the +coast between the river Castor and Pollux of Dease and Simpson, and the +Strait of the Fury and Hecla, as it was then very generally supposed +that Boothia was an island. + +The party was to have been commanded by that able and enterprising +traveller, Mr. Thomas Simpson, whose indefatigable exertions, in +conjunction with those of Mr. Dease, had during the three preceding +years effected so much; but his untimely and melancholy fate prevented +that intention from being carried into effect, and the survey of the +Arctic coast was discontinued for a few years. + +When it was determined that the survey should be resumed, Sir George +Simpson, Governor-in-Chief of the Company's territories, informed me +that a boat expedition to the Arctic Sea was again contemplated, at the +same time doing me the honour of proposing that I should take command of +it,--a charge which I most joyfully accepted. + +The plan of the expedition was different from any that had hitherto been +adopted, and was entirely of Sir George Simpson's forming. Its leading +features were as follows:--A party of thirteen persons, including two +Esquimaux interpreters, was to leave Churchill in two boats at the +disruption of the ice, and coast along the western shore of Hudson's Bay +to the northward as far as Repulse Bay; or, if thought necessary, to the +Strait of the Fury and Hecla. From this latter point the shore of the +Arctic Sea was to be traced to Dease and Simpson's farthest discoveries +eastward; or, if Boothia Felix should be found to form part of the +American continent, up to some place surveyed by Captain or Commander +(now Sir John and Sir James C.) Ross. + +I started from the Sault de S^{te.} Marie in the latter part of July, +1845, in a canoe which I took on with me as far as Red River, where this +frail vessel was changed for a boat, which is better adapted for +traversing large sheets of water. We had rather a stormy passage to +Norway House, at which place five men were engaged for the expedition; +and having brought two with me from the southern department, I required +only three more, who I knew could easily be procured at York Factory. + +At first there was some difficulty in getting volunteers, as a report +had got abroad (set on foot, I believe, by either M'Kay or Sinclair, +guides and steersmen with the expeditions under Sir G. Back and Dease +and Simpson), that the whole party, if not starved for want of food, +would run the risk of being frozen to death for want of fuel. + +After leaving Norway House our progress was slow, the water being very +shallow, and our boat rather a heavy drag, for a single crew, over the +portages. Two Indians who were engaged, the one to go as far as Oxford +House, and the other all the way to York Factory, stipulated that they +should do no work on Sunday; to which I readily agreed, thinking that +they acted conscientiously; and this I really believe to have been the +case with one; but I had some doubts about the sincerity of the other, +when I learned that, before leaving us, he had stolen a shirt and +blanket from one of the boat's crew. + +We arrived at York Factory on the 8th October, during a strong gale of +north-east wind with heavy rain and sleet, which had thoroughly drenched +us all; in addition to which the men were so bedaubed with mud whilst +dragging the boats along shore, that scarcely a feature of their faces +could be distinguished. + +On landing I was most kindly welcomed by Chief-Factor Hargrave and the +other gentlemen of the Factory. + +There was little probability of our being able to get to Churchill by +water this autumn, nevertheless the boats that had been built for the +expedition were launched and put in order for sea. They were fine +looking and strong clinker-built craft, 22 feet long by 7 feet 6 inches +broad, each capable of carrying between fifty and sixty pieces of goods +of 90 lbs. per piece. They were each rigged with two lug sails, to which +a jib was afterwards added; under which, with a strong breeze of wind, +they were found to work admirably. They were named the "North Pole" and +the "Magnet." + +We had a continuance of northerly winds until the ice began to form on +the river, when it would have been highly imprudent to attempt going +along the coast, and I did not wish to run the risk of having our boats +stranded, which would have been a very likely occurrence had we put to +sea. There was, therefore, nothing to be done but to haul our boats up +again; nor did this cause me much disappointment, as I felt pretty +certain that, in the following spring, we could advance as fast to the +northward as the season of the breaking up of the ice did; and this +supposition I afterwards found to be correct. + +My attention was now turned to the proper equipment of my party, in +which I was most ably assisted by Chief-Factor Hargrave and my friend, +Mr. W. Mactavish, who was in charge of York during the temporary absence +of the former gentleman; so that, with keeping a meteorological +journal--in which the temperature of the air, height of the barometer, +force and direction of the winds, and state of the weather were +registered eight times a day--and taking observations for latitude, +longitude, variation of the compass, and dip of the needle, &c., I had +occupation enough on my hands. + +Among other articles which I thought might be useful, were a small +sheet-iron stove for each boat, a set of sheet-iron lamps for burning +oil after the Esquimaux fashion, some small kettles (commonly called +conjurors) having a small basin and perforated tin stand for burning +alcohol, a seine net, and four small windows, each of two double panes +of glass. An oiled canvass canoe was made, and we also had one of +Halkett's air boats, large enough to carry three persons. This last +useful and light little vessel ought to form part of the equipment of +every expedition. + +On the 30th April, 1846, that harbinger of spring, the Canada goose, was +seen; and so early as the 5th May the ice in Hayes' River commenced +breaking up; but it was more than a month after this date before the +Nelson or North River opened. At length, on the 12th June, it was +reported that a passage was practicable, and everything was got in +readiness for making a start on the following day. + +The crews of the boats were divided as follows:-- + + NORTH POLE. + + John Rae. + John Corrigal, Orkneyman, Steersman. + Richard Turner, half-breed, Middleman. + Edward Hutchison, Orkneyman, ditto. + Hilard Mineau, Canadian, ditto. + Nibitabo, Cree Indian, ditto and hunter. + + MAGNET. + + George Flett, Orkneyman, Steersman. + John Folster, ditto, Middleman. + William Adamson, Zetlander, ditto. + Jacques St. Germain, Canadian, ditto. + Peter Matheson, Highlander, ditto. + +All these men had the same wages, namely, £40 per annum, with the +promise of a gratuity in the event of good conduct. + +The lading of each of the boats, including the men's luggage, amounted +to about seventy pieces; and with this cargo they were quite deep enough +in the water and very much lumbered--so much so that, to allow room for +pulling, a quantity of the cargo had to be displaced. + +On the 13th June, after bidding farewell to our kind friends at York, +and receiving a salute of seven guns and three hearty cheers, we set +sail with a light air of fair wind. We had not proceeded more than a +mile down the river, when the wind chopped round directly in our teeth, +and blew a gale. As I could not think of turning back, we were speedily +under close-reefed sails, turning to windward; the wind and tide were +going in opposite directions, and there was an ugly cross sea running, +which caused us to ship much water over both the lee and weather side. +After a couple hours of this work we gained sufficient offing to clear +the shallows, which lie for some miles out from the point of Marsh, +(this being the name of the N.E. extremity of York Island), and stood +across towards the north shore of the Nelson River. The men in the +Magnet, having erroneously carried on too great a press of canvass, were +left a mile or two astern. As we advanced the wind gradually abated, and +we soon fell in with quantities of ice driving along with the current, +through which we had much difficulty in finding a passage. + +We made the land near Sam's Creek; and it being now calm, and flood tide +strong against us, we cast anchor close to the shore between 9 and 10 +o'clock. The night was beautiful, and, as all my men had gone to sleep, +nothing interrupted the stillness around but the occasional blowing of a +white whale, the rather musical note of the "caca wee" (long-tailed +duck), or the harsh scream of the great northern diver. Yet I could not +close my eyes. Nor was this wakefulness caused by the want of comfort in +my bed, which I must own was none of the most inviting, as it consisted +of a number of hard-packed bags of flour, over which a blanket was +spread, so that I had to accommodate myself in the best way I could to +the inequalities of the surface. To a man who had slept soundly in all +sorts of places--on the top of a round log, in the middle of a swamp, as +well as on the wet shingle beach, such a bed was no hardship; but +thoughts now pressed upon me which during the bustle and occupation of +preparation had no time to intrude. I could not conceal from myself that +many of my brother officers, men of great experience in the Indian +country, were of opinion that we ran much risk of starving; little was +known of the resources of that part of the country to which we were +bound; and all agreed that there was little chance of procuring fuel, +unless some oil could be obtained from the natives. Yet the novelty of +our route, and of our intended mode of operations, had a strong charm +for me, and gave me an excitement which I could not otherwise have felt. + +14th.--As there were great quantities of ice along the shore to the +northward of us, I let the boats take the ground, so that this morning +they were high and dry on the mud, the water being a mile or two outside +of us, and we as far from the high-water mark. + +As the Goose Hunt House (a small hut where one of the Company's servants +and some Indians go every spring and autumn to shoot and salt geese,) +was at no great distance, I visited it, but found that the people had +taken their departure for the Factory--a certain sign that the geese and +ducks had gone farther north. Numbers of the Hudsonian godwit (_limosa +Hudsonica_) were flying about, apparently intending to breed in the +neighbourhood. + +The boats floated at a quarter after 10 A.M., and we got under weigh +with a fine light breeze from the S.E. The temperature of the air was +62° and the water 40°. There were many pieces of ice floating about, and +a great quantity close-packed about half a mile outside. At mid-day we +were in latitude 57° 25' 93" N. After running by Massey's patent log for +10¾ miles north, we were stopped by ice at a few minutes after 1 P.M., +when we made fast to a large grounded mass, which protected us from the +smaller floating pieces as long as the tide was ebbing; but as soon as +the flood made, it required all our exertions to prevent the boats being +damaged. We now found the great advantage of some sheet copper that had +been nailed on their bows, as it completely protected them from being +chafed. At 11 next forenoon, finding our situation rather dangerous, as +soon as the tide flowed far enough, we pushed inshore, and beached the +boats on a fine smooth surface of mud and gravel. With the exception of +a heavy shower of rain at 6 A.M., the weather continued fine all day, +but the sky was too cloudy to permit any observations to be made. + +On the 16th we advanced only 1½ miles. The temperature of the air 42° +and the water 34°. By an azimuth of the sun the variation of the +compass, 10° 54' east, was obtained. + +As it was only at, or near, high-water that we could make any progress, +we crept along shore about four miles during the morning's tide, and in +the evening we put into Rupert's Creek, which afforded us good shelter, +and also fresh water, of which we were getting rather short. A fresh +breeze from the east brought in much ice, which completely blockaded our +harbour. The morning of the 18th was very fine, but the easterly wind +still continued, and such was the effect produced by it that not a spot +of open water was to be seen. The latitude 57° 32' 18" was observed, and +an observation of the sun's azimuth yesterday gave the variation of the +compass 9° 56' E. Some partridges (_tetrao saliceti_), ducks, and a +flat-billed phalarope (_P. fulicarius_) were shot. + +19th.--The ice having become somewhat more open during the night, we +left the creek at 4 A.M., and ran 32½ miles before a fine breeze of S.E. +wind, through lanes of open water, as nearly as possible in a N.N.E. +course. Large unbroken fields, on which numbers of seals were lying, now +opposed our further progress. At high-water next morning, we set forward +among ice so closely packed, that we were obliged to open a passage by +pushing aside the smaller pieces; we thus gained between two and three +miles and reached Broad River. We lay here during the remainder of the +day, which was too cloudy for a meridian observation; but in the evening +an amplitude of the sun gave variation 12° 19' east. The dip of the +needle was 84° 46' 4". + +The morning's tide of the 21st advanced us nearly three miles. Our new +position was found to be in latitude 58° 9' 51" N.; the latitude of +Broad River must therefore be 58° 7' N. A strong breeze of S.S.W. wind +had driven out some of the ice, so that, with the aid of sails and +poles, we gained 12 miles more northing in the evening. + +From the 22nd to the 24th we continued to creep alongshore, but our +progress was very slow, 19 miles being, at the highest estimate, as much +as we gained. We were, however, killing ducks of various kinds, and +collecting eggs enough to keep us in food. A deer was also shot by +Nibitabo on the 22nd, and on the 24th I procured from a high mound of +ice, where it was feeding, what appeared to be a Canada nuthatch (_sitta +Canadensis_). The skin was preserved, and is with other specimens in the +Honourable Hudson's Bay Company's warehouse in London. + +On the 25th we lay all day in a small creek, which afforded us a safe +harbour. + +The wind, which had yesterday blown a strong gale from the N.E., shifted +round to W., which gave us some hopes of an opening to seaward. In the +evening much ice drove out with the ebb. The latitude of our position by +reduction to the meridian was 58° 31' N. + +26th.--This morning we were fortunate enough, after a great deal of +trouble, to get the boats into comparatively open water, and as the wind +was moderate from E.S.E. we threaded our way, through narrow channels +and openings, until opposite Cape Churchill. At 3 P.M. we doubled the +cape, and to our great joy found an open sea to the north and north west +of it. + +The whole of the coast between Nelson River and Cape Churchill is low +and flat, with not a single rock in situ. There are, however, a number +of boulder stones of granite, and debris of limestone, to be seen. + +There are numerous lakelets near the shore, the banks of which form the +favourite breeding places of the Canada goose, the mallard, pintail, +teal, scaup, and long-tailed ducks, great northern diver,[1] and the +Arctic tern. The phalaropus hyperboreus is also very numerous--so much +so that I could have shot twenty in half-an-hour. The female of this +phalarope and of the P. fulicarius is considerably larger, and has much +finer markings on its plumage, than the male, the colours being much +brighter. + +As we sailed along shore to the westward, the land gradually became more +high and rocky, and there were many ridges of stones lying off several +miles from the beach, among which we had some trouble in threading our +way, the navigation being rendered still more difficult by a thick fog. + +We arrived at the mouth of Churchill River at 3 A.M. on the 27th, but as +the tide was ebbing we could not stem the current, so that we did not +reach the Company's Fort, situated on the west bank of the river and +about five miles up, until half-past six, when I was most kindly +welcomed by my friend Mr. Sinclair, chief trader, the gentleman in +charge, who had not expected to see us so early. + +My letter of instructions had not yet arrived, so that we took advantage +of the delay thus occasioned to have the boats unloaded, some slight +repairs effected, and the cargoes examined and dried. I determined on +leaving here some tobacco, salt, and one or two other articles that were +not absolutely essential, supplying their place with pemmican and flour. +Some observations for the dip of the needle gave mean dip 84° 47' 3". +The variation of the compass 12° 29' east, and the latitude of the +Establishment 58° 44' 12" were found, and the mean time of 70 vertical +vibrations of the needle in the magnetic meridian was 148". + +The people of the fort were busy killing white whales, great numbers of +which come up the river with the flood tide. The mode of taking them is +very simple. A boat, having a harpooner both at bow and stern, sails out +among the shoal, and being painted white, it does not alarm them; they +approach quite close, and are thus easily struck. When harpooned they do +not run any great distance in one direction, but dart about much in the +way that a trout does when hooked. + +On the evening of the 4th July the anxiously expected instructions +arrived from Red River, viā York Factory. The following is a copy of +them:-- + + "_Red River Settlement_, + "15th June, 1846. + + "SIR, + + "You are aware that the grand object of the expedition which has + been placed under your direction is to complete the geography of + the northern shore of America, by surveying the only section of + the same that has not yet been traced, namely, the deep bay, as + it is supposed to be, stretching from the western extremity of + the Straits of the Fury and Hecla to the eastern limit of the + discoveries of Messrs. Dease and Simpson. + + "2. For this purpose you will proceed from Churchill with the + two boats, and twelve men that have been selected for this + arduous and important service, losing not a moment, at least on + your outward voyage, in examining such part of the coast as has + already been visited and explored. In a word, you will reach, + with as little loss of time as possible, the interesting scene + of your exclusive labours. + + "3. In prosecuting the survey in question, you will, as a matter + of course, endeavour to ascertain as accurately as circumstances + may permit, without occasioning any serious delay, the latitudes + and longitudes of all the most remarkable points within the + range of your operations, and also the general bearing and + extent of all the intermediate portions of coast, embodying the + whole at the same time in the form of a chart, or rather of the + draft of a chart, from day to day. + + "4. But in addition to this, your principal and essential task, + you will devote as much of your attention as possible to various + subordinate and incidental duties. You will do your utmost, + consistently with the success of your main object, to attend to + botany and geology; to zoology in all its departments; to the + temperature both of the air and of the water; to the conditions + of the atmosphere and the state of the ice; to winds and + currents; to the soundings as well with respect to bottom as + with respect to depth; to the magnetic dip and the variation of + the compass; to the aurora borealis and the refraction of light. + You will also, to the best of your opportunities, observe the + ethnographical peculiarities of the Esquimaux of the country; + and in the event of your wintering within the Arctic Circle, you + will be careful to notice any characteristic features or + influences of the long night of the high latitudes in question. + These particulars, and such others as may suggest themselves to + you on the spot, you will record fully and precisely in a + journal, to be kept, as far as practicable, from day to day, + collecting at the same time any new, curious, or interesting + specimens, in illustration of any of the foregoing heads. + + "5. In order to provide against the probable necessity of + requiring two seasons for your operations, you will take with + you all the provisions that your boats can carry, with such + shooting, hunting, and fishing tackle as may enable you to + husband your supplies. I need hardly mention medicines and warm + clothing among the necessaries of your voyage, for, in full + reliance on your professional zeal and ability, I place the + health of your people, under Providence, entirely in your hands. + + "6. In the event of wintering in the country, you will cultivate + the most friendly relations with the natives, taking care, + however, to guard against surprise. For this purpose you will + repeatedly and constantly inculcate on your men, collectively + and individually, the absolute necessity of mildness and + firmness, of frankness and circumspection. + + "7. If, in the event of your being unable to accomplish the + whole of your task in one season, you see ground for doubting + whether the resources of the country are competent to maintain + the whole of your people, you will in that case send back a part + of them to Churchill with one of the boats. For the remaining + part of your men you cannot fail to find subsistence, animated + as you and they are by a determination to fulfil your mission at + the cost of danger, fatigue, and privation. Wherever the natives + can live, I can have no fears with respect to you, more + particularly as you will have the advantage of the Esquimaux, + not merely in your actual supplies, but also in the means of + recruiting and renewing them. + + "8. During the winter you will pursue the various objects of the + expedition by making excursions with a due regard, of course, to + safety, on the snow or on the ice; and at the close of your + second season, after having accomplished the whole of your task, + you will return according to your own discretion, either by your + original course or by Back's Great Fish River, keeping + constantly in view, till you reach Churchill or Great Slave + Lake, the general spirit of these your instructions. + + "9. In conclusion, let me assure you that we look confidently to + you for the solution of what may be deemed the final problem in + the geography of the northern hemisphere. The eyes of all who + take an interest in the subject are fixed on the Hudson's Bay + Company; from us the world expects the final settlement of the + question that has occupied the attention of our country for two + hundred years; and your safe and triumphant return, which may + God in His mercy grant, will, I trust, speedily compensate the + Hudson's Bay Company for its repeated sacrifices and its + protracted anxieties. + + "I remain, + "Sir, &c. + + (Signed) "G. SIMPSON." + + "John Rae, Esq. + "Churchill, + "Hudson's Bay." + +The boats were loaded during the night, and at 6 A.M. were sent down to +the old stone fort at the mouth of the river, where they were to wait +for me a few hours. Besides an abundant supply of ammunition, guns, +nets, twines, &c. for our own use, and various articles for presents and +to barter with the Esquimaux, we had on board + + 20 bags pemmican, about 90 lbs. each, + 2 ditto grease, " 90 lbs. " + 25 ditto flour, each 1 cwt. + 4 gallons of alcohol for fuel; + +with a good stock of tea, sugar, and chocolate, but only four gallons of +brandy and two gallons of port wine, as I was well aware of the bad +effects of spirits in a cold climate. Considering that we were to be +absent fifteen or perhaps twenty-seven months, our quantity of +provisions (amounting in all to little more than four months' +consumption at full allowance) was not very great. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[1] The male and female of the northern diver (_colymbus glacialis_) +resemble one another so much that it is very difficult to distinguish +the one from the other. The immature bird has often been described by +ornithologists as the female. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + Depart from Churchill--A gale--Anchor in Knap's Bay--Land on an + island--Esquimaux graves--Visited by Esquimaux--A large river + running into Knap's Bay--Nevill's Bay--Corbet's Inlet--Rankin's + Inlet--Cape Jalabert--Greenland whales seen--Chesterfield + Inlet--Walruses--Cape Fullerton--Visited by an + Esquimaux--Reefs--Cape Kendall seen--Ice packed against the + shore--Take shelter in an excellent harbour--River + traced--Seals--Gale--Ice driven off--Direction of the tides + reversed--Whale Point--Many whales seen--Again stopped by the + pack--Wager River estuary--Ice drifts--Eddy currents--No second + opening into Wager River seen--Enter Repulse Bay--Interview with + Esquimaux--No intelligence of Sir John Franklin. + + +Having taken on board Ouligbuck and one of his sons as Esquimaux +interpreters, and bid adieu to Mr. Sinclair, who, during our stay, had +omitted nothing that could in any way tend to the comfort of the party, +we set sail at 11 o'clock on the 5th July with a light air of N.N.E. +wind, and stood to the westward across Button's Bay. The weather was +fine, and to enliven the scene numbers of white whales were seen +sporting about, and sometimes coming within a few yards of the boats. +The men were all in excellent health and spirits, there not being a +melancholy look nor a desponding word to be seen or heard among them. + +At 3.30 P.M. we passed Pauk-a-thau-kis-cow River, and the wind having +freshened and shifted round to the S.E. we had run upwards of forty +miles before 10 o'clock. The temperature of the air was 49°, and of the +water 50°, thus showing that there was little or no ice in the +neighbourhood. + +The night being fine we continued under sail, the crews being divided +into two watches. The land had now become much lower than it was about +Churchill, and the coast very flat; so that it was necessary to keep six +or eight miles from the land when the tide was out; and even then, +although the boats drew only two and a half feet water, there was little +enough for them. The bottom was of mud, sand, or shingle, with every +here and there a large boulder stone, some of them ten or twelve feet +high. + +Early on the morning of the 6th three Esquimaux came off in their +kayaks, and although we were going at the rate of four miles an hour +they easily overtook us. As they were going towards Churchill, I sent a +few lines to Mr. Sinclair by them. + +Our latitude at noon was 60° 17' 59" N. Thermometer in air 49°, in water +45°. The total distance run, measured by Massey's log, was ninety-five +miles, which agreed very nearly with our latitude, the difference being +easily accounted for by the circumstance that the ebb tide runs much +stronger to the northward than the flood does in an opposite direction. + +In the afternoon there was a strong breeze, which, although fair, was +rather too much onshore and raised a heavy sea. At 5 P.M., having run +twenty-five miles since noon, we got into shallow water, and although +the heads of the boats were immediately turned to seaward, the ebb tide +was too quick for us, and we got aground, being ten miles from the main +shore. Five miles N.W. of us there was a small but steep island, on the +E. side of which there was still a deep snow drift. By a meridian +altitude of the moon our latitude was 60° 47' 24" N. + +The following morning we floated at 2 A.M., and with a strong breeze +from S.E. stood on our course. The weather looked threatening, and we +had not been long out before the wind increased to a gale, and the sea +rose in proportion. The boats fully realised the good opinion we had of +them, but being so deeply laden the sea broke frequently over them, and +kept us continually baling; at last the Magnet shipped a heavy sea, and +the steersman, either from losing his presence of mind or from not +knowing how to act, allowed the boat to broach to. Fortunately no other +sea struck her whilst thus placed, else both she and the crew must +inevitably have been lost. I here saw the benefit of the precaution I +had taken to have some Orkneymen with me, for it was evident the others +(although as good fellows as could possibly be wished) knew nothing +about the management of a boat in such weather. + +I was loath to lose so fine an opportunity of getting on, but it would +have been recklessness to attempt proceeding. We accordingly ran in +towards Knap's Bay, which was nearly abreast of us, and were soon +anchored in a snug cove under the lee of the largest island in the bay. +It was well that we put in here, for the wind in a short time increased +to a perfect storm with heavy rain. + +On a neighbouring island some miles to the south of us, many Esquimaux +tents were seen, but we could not discover if they were inhabited. + +Notwithstanding the rain I took my gun and made a tour of the island. It +is about two miles long, a quarter of a mile broad, and not exceeding +100 feet in height, being covered with a scanty vegetation, and thickly +strewn in many places with fragments of granite. + +I met with a great many Esquimaux graves, the bodies being protected +from wild animals by an arch of stone built over them. We found a number +of spear-heads, knives, &c. placed in some of these heaps of stones; but +the Esquimaux do not, I believe, destroy all the property of the +deceased, as is common among most tribes of Indians. + +Tracks were seen of a large white bear which had evidently been feasting +on the eggs of various wildfowl that breed here; among these I noticed +the eider duck (_fuligula mollissima_), the long-tailed duck (_fuligula +glacialis_), and the black guillimot (_uria grylle_). + +In the evening, when the wind had somewhat moderated, we were visited +by five Esquimaux from the tents before mentioned; they each received a +piece of tobacco, of which they are remarkably fond, and one of them +promised to carry or forward to Churchill a letter which I addressed to +Sir George Simpson. In a net that we had set, a salmon weighing 10 lbs. +was caught. A large and deep river empties its waters into this bay; its +course is about due east, and it abounds with salmon, seals, and white +whales, being consequently a favourite resort of the natives. The rise +of the tide was thirteen feet. When about to go to bed I found my +blankets quite wet by the seas that washed over me in the morning; this, +however, made them keep out the wind better, and did not certainly +affect my rest. + +The following day was more moderate, but it was 2 P.M. before we could +venture out of our harbour. By observation the latitude 61° 9' 42" N., +and the variation of the compass 7° 48' east were obtained; the dip of +the needle being 86° 18' 3" N. + +At 4 A.M. on the 9th the wind went round so far to the east that we +could not lie our course; it rained heavily, but the wind became more +favourable, and we stood over towards the north shore of Nevill's Bay. +The temperature of the water at mid-day 37°, air 44°; latitude by +observation 61° 55' 40" N. + +We passed among many small islands, the resort of great numbers of the +birds already mentioned, which we used as food (although not very +palatable) to save our pemmican. I also noticed a few of foolish +guillimot (_uria troile_), the first we had met with.[2] At half-past +five, it being calm, we landed on a small island to get some water; we +found a few Hutchins geese here, one of them having a brood of young +with her. These appear to have taken the place of the Canada goose, as I +have not seen any of the latter lately. At 8 o'clock, it still being +calm, we pulled up towards the north point of Nevill's Bay, which bore +east of us. No ice was to be seen, but there were numerous patches of +snow on the main shore N.E. of us, distant 10 or 11 miles. + +I saw a young shore lark and a young snow bunting, both able to fly. +There are quantities of red, grey, and blue granite in this island, +variegated with quartz. + +The shores had now become steep and rugged, the whole coast being lined +with bare primitive rocks. + +After breakfast next morning we pulled round the east end of some rocks +near which we had lain at anchor during the flood tide, and kept on our +course across Whale Cove. Some small pieces of ice were seen floating +about; the thermometer in the shade 55°, water 36°. A fog, which had +been thick all the morning, cleared up at half-past ten, and we saw some +islands at no great distance right ahead, and a smoke a few miles inland +on our beam, probably made by Esquimaux, but we could not see any tents. +Our latitude by observation was 62° 11' 23" N. Temperature of air 55°, +of water 37°. + +The weather was very variable, with calms and light breezes alternately. +At a little after 7 in the evening we were off the south point of +Corbet's Inlet. It rained hard almost all night; we, however, continued +our course, and at 7 A.M. got among a number of reefs and islands that +lie near the south point of Rankin's Inlet. In attempting to pass +between two of these our boat got aground, and as the tide was ebbing +she could not be shoved afloat again; but, as the greater part of the +cargo was carried on shore before the water fell very far, no damage was +done. An excellent observation of the sun gave latitude 62° 35' 47" N., +variation 6° 6' W., Marble Island bearing east by compass. The black +guillimot was in such numbers here that four or five were killed at one +shot. Many eggs were collected, and one nest was found having two eider +and three long-tailed ducks' eggs in it. The eider had possession, but +whether the birds had a mutual understanding, or whether the stronger +had driven out the weaker possessor, it is difficult to say. + +At 4 P.M. we floated and ran across the inlet, the traverse being 15 +miles. We landed at its north point, as the wind and tide were both +against us. There were numerous signs that this place is often visited +by the Esquimaux; the bones of various animals and the remains of some +stone "caches" being every where visible. A little before midnight a +deer was shot by Corrigal. During a walk I fell in with a large white +owl (_strix nyctra_). As is usually the case it was very shy, and could +not be approached within gun-shot.[3] + +The rise of the tide was 14 feet. + +At half-past two A.M. on the 13th we landed at Jalabert. The morning +was delightful, being quite calm with a sharp frost. While we lay here +waiting the change of the tide, Ouligbuck shot a fine large buck. Many +seals were sporting about, and a shoal of salmon were seen swimming +close to the beach. Having taken on board our venison, we pulled with +the tide now in our favour. We saw upwards of a dozen Greenland whales, +all apparently busy feeding, some of them very large. At noon we were in +latitude 63° 6' 14" N. The variation of the compass 8° 52' W. In the +evening we passed Chesterfield Inlet. Great numbers of rocks lie out +fully eight miles from the shore on its north side. The wind continued +fair and moderate all night, and at 6 in the morning, when in the large +bay S.W. of Cape Fullerton, a single Esquimaux visited us in his kayak. +He had been at Churchill last year, but did not intend to go thither +this season, although he had a number of wolf, fox, and parchment deer +skins at his tent. A present of a knife and a piece of tobacco made him +quite happy, and he left us shouting so loudly as to show that his lungs +were in good order. The party to which he belongs consists of ten +families, their hunting-grounds being situated on the borders of +Chesterfield Inlet, where they spear a great number of deer whilst +swimming across in the autumn. At some distance inland, woods are +found. A number of walruses were observed lying on a small ridge of +rocks. They were grunting and bellowing--making a noise which I fancy +would much resemble a concert of old boars and buffaloes. We did not +disturb their music. Obtained a meridian observation of the sun, which +gave latitude 64° 3' 42" N. As the refraction was great and the natural +horizon used, this is probably erroneous; if it is not, Cape Fullerton +is not properly laid down in the charts, being too far to the south. +Temperature of the air 58°, water 41°. + +When doubling Cape Fullerton, we were obliged, by the numerous granite +reefs, to keep six or seven miles from the mainland. At 7 in the evening +we landed to replenish our water casks, and had an unsuccessful chase +after two deer. The horizon being clear, I saw Cape Kendall on +Southampton Island, bearing S.E. by S. magnetic. + +15th.--We made but little progress last night, there being no wind. The +weather was rather cold, the thermometer standing at 40°, and the water +being only 4° above the freezing point indicated the proximity of ice. A +short time afterwards a large _pack_ was seen about five miles distant. +On approaching nearer, we found that it extended along shore as far as +the eye could see. At 2 P.M. we ran inshore, and took shelter under some +grey-coloured granite rocks twenty feet high. Deer being noticed at no +great distance, two or three sportsmen went after them, and succeeded +in shooting a doe. A very large whale was observed. + +Finding our present position far from being a safe one, at high water we +pushed along shore among masses of ice during a thick fog, and entered +an inlet which opportunely presented itself, and which proved to be an +excellent harbour about 200 yards wide, from four to six fathoms deep, +and nearly four miles long. The bottom being sand and mud would afford +excellent anchorage for much larger craft than ours. As there were many +seals swimming about, I was led to infer that salmon or trout were +abundant; two nets were put down, but no fish were caught. + +During a two days' detention here I traced, for eight miles, the course +of a considerable river which empties its waters into the inlet. I found +it to be a succession of rapids and deep pools, and running as nearly as +possible in a S.S.E. course. Near its mouth upwards of thirty seals were +lying basking in the sun; a ball fired among them sent the whole party +walloping into the water at a great rate, more frightened, however, than +hurt. One of the men had accompanied me, and during our walk we met with +a hen partridge (_tetrao rupestris_) and her brood. I have seen many +birds attempt to defend their young, but never witnessed one so +devotedly brave as this mother; she ran about us, over and between our +feet, striking at our hands when we attempted to take hold of her young, +so that she herself was easily made prisoner. Although kept in the hand +some time, when let loose again she continued her attacks with unabated +courage and perseverance, and was soon left mistress of the field, with +her family safe around her. + +We were fortunate in finding some willows fully an inch in diameter, +which were far superior for fuel to the sea-weed and short heath we had +been using for the last two days. + +Hutchins geese breed here in numbers, and as no Canada geese were seen, +I presume that they do not usually come so far north along the coast. +The shores have a very rugged appearance, there being numerous high +ridges of primitive rocks running far out into the sea in an east and +west direction, the line of stratification dipping to the south at an +angle of 75° with the horizon. In many places these rocks were thickly +studded with small garnets. The rise and fall of the tide was 13½ feet. + +During the whole of the 16th the weather was cloudy, and it rained +heavily all night; but on the 17th the wind increased to a gale, the sky +cleared up, and a satisfactory observation was obtained by the +artificial horizon, which placed us in latitude 64° 6' 45" N. As we were +more than ten miles north of the situation where I had observed the +latitude on the 14th, the difference between the latitude obtained then +and that of our present situation shews the uncertainty of observations +made with the natural horizon when there is much refraction, or when +there is ice in the neighbourhood. The variation of the compass was 20° +10' W. The gale continued all day, and being from the westward much ice +was driven off shore. + +18th. Last night the wind moderated a little, but about 2 A.M. it blew +more strongly than before. The forenoon was sufficiently fine to permit +me to observe the dip of the needle 86° 36' 5" N. + +In the afternoon, when collecting plants, I discovered some willows of a +larger growth than those we had before found, and I carried a load of +them to the boat. In the evening there was no ice to be seen either +along shore or in the offing, but it still blew too hard for us to get +under weigh. The temperature of the air to-day varied from 50° to 55°. +Just as I had turned in for the night, it was reported that two white +bears were close at hand. I immediately got up, and set off "sans +culottes" to have a share of the anticipated sport, when I soon +discovered that two harmless deer in their winter coats had been +mistaken for bears. It was high water to-day at 11h. 40m. A.M., the rise +being 15 feet. By this it will appear that 3 o'clock is the time of high +water at full and change of the moon. + +At 3 next morning, the wind having moderated, we started, and ran along +shore at a fine rate for ten miles; but here the coast turning more to +the westward we could not lie our course, and were compelled to put +ashore until the flood tide made; for it was found that, contrary to +what we had previously experienced, the current ran to the northward +during the flow of the tide, and in an opposite direction during the +ebb, this being probably caused by the strait north of Southampton +Island being blocked up with ice. After an hour's stay we got under +weigh again at a few minutes after seven, and turned to windward. Our +latitude at noon was 64° 20' 51" N. It now fell calm; but this had not +continued more than half an hour before a light breeze sprung up from +the east, and at 1 P.M. we passed Whale Point. A great many whales were +seen to-day, and one of them was swimming amongst a large flock of king +ducks, apparently amusing itself with the confusion that it caused when +rising to breathe. Temperature of the air 50°--water 38°. + +20th. It being calm for some time during the night, we came to anchor +whilst the tide was against us; but at 6 A.M. we again continued our +route. There was much ice lying along the shore of Southampton Island, +its proximity being indicated by the temperature of the water (35°) this +morning. Some more large whales were noticed. The ice was again too +close packed to permit us to advance; we therefore landed, and the +latitude 64° 56' 33" N., and the variation of the compass 36° 13' W., +were observed. The musquitoes were very numerous and troublesome, but, +nevertheless, the sportsmen succeeded in shooting five deer. + +On the 21st and 22d we had a continued struggle amongst heavy and +close-packed ice until we reached Wager River Estuary, where we were +detained all day by the immense quantities driving in with the flood and +out again with the ebb tide, which ran at the rate of 7 or 8 miles an +hour, forcing up the floes into large mounds, and grinding them against +the rocks, with a noise resembling thunder. + +During the ebb tide the eddy currents once or twice brought in the ice +with great force, which would have smashed our boats, as they lay in +rather an exposed situation along the face of some steep rocks, had it +not fortunately taken the ground before it reached us. During our stay, +a meridian observation of the sun by artificial horizon gave latitude +65° 15' 36" N., variation 48° 13' W. + +23d. There was a thin coat of ice on the water this morning, the +temperature of which at midnight was 2° below the freezing point, that +of the air 36°. As our position was far from safe, we were kept on the +alert all night, and got under weigh at half-past three, for the purpose +of finding some safer harbour. To get to a small bay a mile and a half +to the west of us, we had more than once to pull for our lives, as the +eddy currents already spoken of caused such sudden and uncertain +movements among the ice that there was no telling on what side we were +to expect it. With much difficulty we entered our harbour, and pulled +half a mile up, so as to be safe from the ice, which we had reason to +expect would come in with the flood. The latitude of our new anchorage +was 65° 16' 8" N. This is the most northerly point on the south side of +Wager River, which appears to be not very correctly laid down in the +charts. The channel is not more than four or five miles broad. In the +evening, being wearied with delay, as soon as the flood tide slacked, we +pushed out into the stream, and when in mid-channel had the advantage of +a fine breeze, which enabled us to stem the current that still ran at +the rate of five miles an hour. The boats had some narrow escapes, and +the Magnet received a severe squeeze, but fortunately sustained no +injury, and we were soon in safety on the north side of the channel. + +24th. Having pulled along shore all night, we cast anchor at half-past +five this morning to take breakfast and give rest to the men. Our course +since crossing Wager River had been among a number of small rocky +islands, between which we had some difficulty in threading our way, but +we did not see any signs of a second opening into Wager Bay, although a +sharp look-out was kept. A light air of fair wind springing up, we got +under weigh at a few minutes before 8, and stood on to the northward, +the ebb tide again running with us. At mid-day the temperature of the +air was 45°, water 32°. + +In the afternoon the breeze increased, and at a quarter-past seven we +rounded Cape Hope, and ran into Repulse Bay. By an amplitude of the sun +whilst setting, the variation of the compass 62° 40' W. was obtained. +As soon as we passed the Cape a great change in the temperature of the +air and water was observed, the former being 56°, and the latter 46°. + +25th. We continued under sail all night, and at 6 in the morning were +within seven miles of the head of the Bay, and cast anchor between a +small island and the shore to get some fuel and cook breakfast. Our +latitude was 66° 26' 57" N. Variation of compass 59° 10' W. + +In the afternoon, the wind being ahead, we plied to windward, and when +entering Gibson's Cove, observed with much joy four Esquimaux on the +shore. I immediately landed near them, and taking Ouligbuck's son with +me as interpreter, joined the party, and calling out Texma (peace), +shook hands with them. They were at first in great fear, and appeared +half inclined to run away, but on our kind intentions towards them being +explained they became quite at ease, chatting and laughing as if we had +been old acquaintances. They were good-looking, of low stature, and much +more cleanly than those in Hudson's Straits. Their dresses were made of +deer skin, of the form so often described, the coat having a long tail +somewhat resembling that of an English dress coat. Their legs were +encased in waterproof boots made of seal-skin, and they all wore +mittens, which they seldom took off their hands. There were two of them +middle-aged, Oo-too-ou-ni-ak (who had a formidable beard and whiskers) +and Kir-ik-too-oo; the other two were lads from eighteen to twenty years +of age; and we were soon after joined by a fine young fellow with ruddy +cheeks and sparkling black eyes, having an expression of exceeding good +humour in his laughing countenance. Our new friend wore round his head a +narrow leather band of deer-skin ornamented with foxes' teeth, and +appeared to be somewhat of a dandy in his own estimation. None of the +party had ever visited Churchill, and they had neither heard nor seen +anything of Sir John Franklin. From a chart drawn by one of the party, I +was led to infer that the sea (Akkoolee), to the west of Melville +Peninsula, was not much more than forty miles distant in a N.N.W. +direction, and that about thirty-five miles of this distance was +occupied by deep lakes; so that we would have only five miles of land to +haul a boat over--a mode of proceeding which, even had the distance been +much greater, I had intended adopting, in preference to going round by +the Fury and Hecla Straits. + +A small river empties its waters into the Bay within a hundred yards of +the place where we landed: this stream, up which the boat was to be +dragged, issues from one of the lakes through which we had to pass. +Leaving all the men but one to unload the boats, I went some miles +inland to trace our intended route. After walking about five miles along +the stream already mentioned (the current in which was very strong), we +arrived at the first lake, a long and narrow body of water, having steep +and in some places rocky banks, which we traced for two miles, and +returned late in the evening to our companions. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[2] These birds breed in great numbers among the rocks in Orkney, and +are much attached to their young. By chasing the latter in a boat they +become so fatigued as to be easily caught. When one of them is taken +into the boat the parent bird approaches within a few feet, dives under +and around the boat in all directions, and whenever it comes up to the +surface utters a peculiarly melancholy note, at the same time turning +its head in a listening attitude as if expecting to hear an answer from +the prisoner. The anxiety of the mother has always the desired effect, +and it is pleasing to observe the joy with which she swims away with her +recovered young one, nestling it under her wing and never permitting it +to stray a foot from her. + +[3] An excellent plan of shooting these birds, and one that I have often +successfully practised, is to roll up a bit of fur or cloth about the +shape and size of a mouse, and drag it after you with a line twenty +yards long. The owl will soon perceive the decoy, although half-a-mile +distant; and after moving his head backwards and forwards as if to make +sure of his object, he takes wing, and making a short sweep in the rear +of his intended prey, pounces upon and seizes it in his claws, affording +the sportsman a fine opportunity of knocking him down. I have sometimes +missed my aim, leaving the owl to fly away with the false mouse (which +the sudden jerk had torn from the line) in his claws. The Indians, +taking advantage of this bird's propensity to alight on elevated spots, +set up pieces of wood in the plains or marshes with a trap fastened to +the top. In this way I have known as many as fifty killed in the early +part of winter by one Indian. The owl is very daring when hungry. I +remember seeing one of these powerful birds fix its claws in a lapdog +when a few yards distant from the owner, and only let go his gripe after +a gun was fired. The poor little dog died of its wounds in a few days. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + Receive a visit from a female party--Their persons and dress + described--Crossing the Isthmus--Drag one of the boats up a + stream--Succession of rapids--North Pole Lake--Find a plant fit + for fuel--Christie Lake--Flett Portage--Corrigal + Lake--Fish--Deer-scaring stones--White wolf--Stony Portage--View + of the sea--Exploring parties sent in advance--Their + report--Long Portage--Difficult tracking--Miles Lake--Muddy + Lake--Rich pasturage and great variety of flowers on its + banks--Marmot burrows--Salt Lake--Visit Esquimaux + tents--Discouraging report of the state of the ice--Esquimaux + chart--Reach the sea--Ross inlet--Point Hargrave--Cape Lady + Pelly--Stopped by the ice--Put ashore--Find a sledge made of + ship-timber--Thick fog--Wolves--Walk along the shore--Remains of + musk-cattle and reindeer--Nature of the coast--Danger from the + ice--Irregular rise of the tide--Deer on the ice--Fruitless + efforts to proceed northward--Cross over to Melville + Peninsula--Gale--Again stopped by the ice--Dangerous position of + the boat--Return to starting point--Meeting with our Esquimaux + friends at Salt Lake--Deer begun to migrate southward--Walk + across the isthmus to Repulse Bay. + +The morning of the 26th was fine, with a fresh breeze from W.N.W. A +visit which I had intended paying to the ladies was anticipated by their +coming over to our side of the river, bag and baggage. They were +accompanied by a very old man named Shad-kow-doo-yak, who was extremely +infirm, being obliged to move about in an almost horizontal posture, +supported by a stick. There were six women, (three old, the other three +young,) the whole of them married. One of the latter appeared quite like +a girl of ten years, and was rather good-looking, having more regular +features, and being cleaner and more neat in her dress than the others. +They were all tatooed on the face, the form on each being nearly the +same, viz. a number of curved lines drawn from between the eyebrows up +over the forehead, two lines across the cheek from near the nose towards +the ear, and a number of diverging curved lines from the lower lip +towards the chin and lower jaw. Their hands and arms were much tatooed +from the tip of the finger to the shoulder. Their hair was collected in +two large bunches, one on each side of the head; and a piece of stick +about ten inches long and half-an-inch thick being placed among it, a +strip of different coloured deer-skin is wound round it in a spiral +form, producing far from an unpleasing effect. They all had ivory combs +of their own manufacture, and deer-skin clothes with the hair inwards; +the only difference between their dresses and those of the men being +that the coats of the former had much larger hoods, (which are used for +carrying children,) in having a flap before as well as behind, and also +in the greater capacity of their boots, which come high above the knee, +and are kept up by being fastened to the girdle. Some needles, beads, +and other trifles were given them, at which they manifested their joy +with loud shouts and yells, differing from the men in this respect, who +received what was given them in silence, although they were evidently +much pleased. + +In the forenoon we were joined by two fine-looking young fellows who had +just returned from hunting deer, in which they had been successful, +having driven a large buck off one of the islands into the water and +speared it there. + +One of the women had been on board the Fury and Hecla, both at Igloolik +and Winter Island, and still wore round her wrist some beads which she +had obtained from these vessels. This party consisted of twenty-six +individuals, there being four families. + +All the cargo being placed in security and the Magnet well moored in our +little land-locked harbour, the party, assisted by four Esquimaux, +commenced dragging the North Pole up the stream. + +The latitude of our landing place was found to be 66° 32' 1" N., being +about seven miles further south than it has been laid down on the +charts. The variation of the compass by an azimuth was 58° 37' 30" W. +This I afterwards found to be erroneous, probably arising from local +attraction. The rate of the chronometer had become so irregular that it +could not be depended upon for finding the longitude, and during the +winter it stopped altogether. + +When about to put on a pair of Esquimaux boots, one of our female +visitors, noticing that the leather of the foot was rather hard, took +them out of my hands and began chewing them with her strong teeth. This +is the mode in which they prepare and soften the seal skin for their +boots, and they are seldom without a piece of leather to gnaw when they +have no better occupation for their teeth. At half-past nine P.M. the +men returned from the boat, having been absent since half-past seven in +the morning. They had with much labour dragged her three miles through a +succession of rapids, the channel being so obstructed with large boulder +stones and rocks, that the most of the party were obliged to be almost +continually up to the waist in ice-cold water. The boat had received +some severe blows and rubs, but no material damage. The worst part of +the river had been passed, and it was only a mile and a-half farther to +the lake (named by the Esquimaux Chi-gi-uwik) from which it takes its +rise. The Esquimaux who had assisted us were paid with a large knife +each. + +Two nets that had been set produced four salmon, but the best season for +catching these fish was over, as they had now returned to deep water. +The evening was cloudy with a strong and chilly breeze from N.N.W. +Temperature of the air at 10 P.M. 35°. + +27th. As soon as the men had finished breakfast they carried each a load +over the rocks to where the boat lay. + +I this morning tried some of our male friends with a little tea and +biscuit, which they did not relish nearly so well as the ladies had done +the previous evening. Indeed, one of the latter, whom I have already +mentioned, knew what biscuit was the moment she saw it, and said she had +eaten some when on board Captain Parry's ships. I remained at our +landing-place until the afternoon to obtain some observations. That for +latitude gave a result different only 4" from that of yesterday. Having +engaged three Esquimaux to carry up some things that were still to be +taken, at one o'clock I followed my men and came up with them some +distance up the lake. As we could not prevail on any of the Esquimaux to +accompany us as guides, they left us here, and I sent back John Folster +and Ouligbuck to take care of the property left behind. + +Our course was nearly N.N.W., but a gale of head wind impeded our +progress greatly. The temperature of the air was 52°; water of lake 40°. +A few hours' poling, pulling, and tracking brought us to the end of the +lake, which is about six miles long, from two hundred yards to half a +mile broad, and in some places thirty fathoms deep. The lake, as well as +the stream up which we had come, was named after our boat. We now turned +to the westward and entered a narrow passage one-and-a-half miles long, +which connects the lake we had passed through with the next one; the +current was strong, but between poling and tracking we soon got into +still water. Our course now turned again to the N.N.W., and after +proceeding a mile in this direction, we put on shore for the night in a +small bay, where we found a good supply of a plant (_andromeda +tetragona_), which answers very well for fuel. + +28th. We did not get under weigh this morning until 6 A.M. as the men +had a hard day's work yesterday, and did not get to rest until a late +hour. The lake continues to trend in the same direction as before, but +the banks are neither so high nor so rocky, being covered with short +grass in many places instead of moss. The wind still kept ahead, so that +it was past ten in the morning before we arrived at a portage, and while +two of the men were preparing breakfast, the others were employed +carrying over some of the baggage. This portage, which I named after +Flett, one of the steersmen, was half a mile long; and being in some +places soft and in others stony, it was half-past four before we were +afloat in the lake on the other side of it. It being calm, great numbers +of fish were seen in this small body of water, which was narrow and only +two-and-a-half miles long, with a deep bay on each side, which gave it +the form of a T. It received the name of Corrigal, after one of my men. +We lost our way here for a short time, having entered a wrong arm of +the lake. At 8 P.M. we arrived at another portage, which being a short +one was soon got over. We pulled in a N.W. direction across this lake +for about three miles to a shallow streamlet that flows from it; here we +were to make our third and I hoped our last portage. We left this for +our next morning's work, as it was now half-past 10 P.M. There was a +great number of stones set up here for the purpose of frightening the +deer into the water. A large white wolf was seen. + +The morning of the 29th was raw and cold, with a gale of wind from N.W. +by N. We got over the portage (which, although short, was covered with +rough granite stones that stuck to our boat's iron-shod keel like glue) +at 20 minutes after 6, and embarked on what I then supposed was another +lake, but which afterwards turned out to be a portion of the second lake +we had entered, and the largest body of fresh water we had yet seen. I +named it after my much-respected and kind friend, Alexander Christie, +Esq., Governor of Red River Colony, whose name has been so often +favourably mentioned by Arctic travellers. + +After pulling W.N.W. for eight miles, we were again in doubt about the +route, and whilst on my way to some high ground in order to ascertain +it, I shot a fine buck with an inch and a half of fat on his haunches. + +We advanced two miles to the head of a small inlet, whence I set out +with one of the men to a neighbouring rising ground to endeavour to +obtain a view of our future route, and, if possible, to get a sight of +the sea. After a fatiguing walk over hill and dale, our eyes were +gladdened with a sight of what we so anxiously looked for, but the view +was far from flattering to our hopes. The sea, or rather the ice on its +surface, was seen apparently not more than twelve miles distant, bearing +north; but there was not a pool of open water visible. It was evident +that our detention in the lakes had as yet lost us nothing. Returning at +8 P.M., I sent four men in two parties to endeavour to discover the best +route, one party being ordered to trace a considerable lake in a N.N.W. +direction, and, if possible, discover its outlet. + +30th.--The men sent off last night returned between 1 and 2 this +morning: those who went to the N.W. reported that there was a small +stream flowing towards the Arctic Sea from the farthest extremity of the +lake they had traced. + +As this account agreed with what we had heard from the Esquimaux, there +was no doubt that we were now in the right track. We had to cross two +portages, each a quarter of a mile, and traverse a lakelet one mile in +extent, before we reached the body of water which the men had traced to +its outlet. It was half-past 2 before we accomplished this work, there +being many obstructions in the form of large granite stones, among and +over which we had to drag the boat. + +The lake in which we now found ourselves is upwards of 27 fathoms deep, +about 6½ miles long, and not more than half a mile broad; it lies nearly +N. by W., and is bounded by banks much more steep and rugged than any we +had yet passed, being in some places two or three hundred feet high. It +is situated in latitude 66° 55' N., and longitude 87° 35' W. We found +that the longest and most difficult portage was now before us. By the +time we had the baggage carried half way over it was getting late, and +we did not take dinner until 9 P.M. + +The following morning was cloudy, with a cold north breeze, which was +not at all unfavourable for the work we had to do. We went to work at an +early hour, but our advance was very slow, as the portage fully realised +the bad opinion that we had formed of it. Hitherto, by laying the anchor +out some distance ahead, and having a block attached to the bow of the +boat by a strop, or what sailors call a swifter, passing round her, we +could form a purchase sufficiently strong to move her with facility, but +here our utmost exertions were required, and the tracking line was +frequently broken. A piece of iron an eighth of an inch thick, which +lined the keel from stem to stern, was actually drawn out and doubled +up, so that it was necessary to remove the whole. At half-past 10, when +half-way across, we breakfasted, after which we met with a bank of snow, +over which we went at a great rate. The latitude, 66° 59' 37" N., was +observed. Near the extremity of the portage there were some ponds of +water deep enough to float the boat, that helped us not a little. The +descent of a steep bank fully a hundred feet high brought us into +another fine lake eight miles long and one mile broad, lying nearly +north and south, with steep rocky shores on its west side: the place +where we came upon its waters was about three miles from its southern +extremity. This lake was named "Miles," after a friend. As it was quite +calm, we pulled up due north and entered a narrow inlet, out of which +there was no passage. We had passed at a mile and a half from this a +stream flowing from the lake, but it looked so insignificant that I +could not suppose it to be the same that the Esquimaux had reported as +having sufficient water for floating the boat. It was now too late, +however, to look for any other exit, and we all betook ourselves to rest +after a hearty supper, for which the fatigues of the day gave us an +excellent appetite. Some of the men had large pieces of the skin +stripped from their backs whilst lifting the boat over the various +obstructions on the portage. + +1st August.--Finding that there was no likelihood of there being any +other outlet to the lake than the one we had seen, we took out the +cargo, and hauling our boat over a shallow part, we reloaded and soon +entered a narrow lake, the waters of which were very muddy. At half an +hour before noon we landed to have breakfast, and the latitude 67° 4' +22" N., variation of the compass 66° 38' W., were observed. The shores +of this lake, being covered with a rich pasturage and a great variety of +flowers, afforded a pleasing contrast to the country we had hitherto +travelled through. There were great numbers of marmots here, with a +well-beaten path leading from one burrow to another. After dragging the +boat over many shallows, we arrived a little after 5 P.M. at high-water +mark, in latitude 67° 13' N., longitude 87° 30' W. The tide being out, +and there not being sufficient water to float the boat, I decided on +remaining here until the flood made. + +The recent foot-tracks of two Esquimaux were seen on the sand. + +A short distance below where we stopped, the stream we had descended +empties its waters into a small river which flows from the westward. + +2nd.--As the tide did not rise so high by two feet during the night as +it had done the previous day, the boat did not float; we were, +consequently, obliged to carry our baggage a mile further down the +stream, and afterwards, with much trouble, haul our boat over numerous +shoals. We were now afloat in a salt-water lake, and on passing a small +point two Esquimaux tents came in view. Not having got breakfast, I +landed with the interpreter, and, whilst the men were cooking, went to +ascertain if there were any inhabitants. All was quiet inside, but +after calling once or twice outside the door of one of the tents, an old +woman made her appearance, apparently just out of bed, as she was very +coolly drawing on her capacious boots, whilst she surveyed her visitors +without showing the slightest symptoms of alarm, although I afterwards +learned that I was the first European she had ever seen. An old man soon +after popped out his head alongside that of his better half, who +appeared to be endowed with a flow of language which set all his efforts +to say anything at defiance. A few trifling presents put us all, in a +few minutes, on a most friendly footing. Their report of the state of +the ice in the large bay before us was far from encouraging; they said +that there was seldom sufficient water for the passage of one of their +small canoes, and present appearances led me to suppose that they were +correct. The name of the man was I-il-lak, of the woman Rei-lu-ak. The +remainder of the party, consisting of their two sons and their wives, +had gone a day's journey inland to hunt the musk-ox. From a chart drawn +by the woman, who, as is usual, (at least among the Esquimaux) was much +the more intelligent of the two, I was led to infer that there was no +opening leading into the large bay but through the Strait of the Fury +and Hecla, and Prince Regent's Inlet. + +As soon as breakfast was over, in which our new friends joined us, we +crossed the lake, which is 6 miles long by 1½ broad, and put on shore +three of the men (W. Adamson, H. Mineau, and Nibitabo) who had assisted +us across, and were now to walk back to Repulse Bay, a distance of +forty-three miles. By them I sent orders to John Folster (the man left +in charge) to make every possible preparation for wintering, and to keep +up a friendly intercourse with the natives. My crew now consisted of +George Flett, John Corrigal, Richard Turner, Edward Hutchison, Peter +Mathieson, Jacques St. Germain, and William Ouligbuck. We now passed for +two miles through a narrow channel--not more than 40 yards wide--among +pieces of ice which were carried along with great rapidity by the ebb +tide that had just commenced; this led us into the deep inlet which we +had seen on the 29th ult. This inlet I named after Donald Ross, Esq., +Chief-Factor. We found but little open water; by keeping near the rocks, +however, we made some progress northward by using our ice-poles, and +after advancing a mile or two I went upon a piece of ice and obtained +the latitude 67° 15' N. by a meridian observation of the sun in +quicksilver. About eight miles to the north of this we passed a rocky +point, which was named after Chief-Factor Hargrave, the gentleman in +charge of York Factory when the expedition was fitted out, and who +afforded every possible assistance towards its proper equipment. This +point is formed of granite and gneiss, and has a very rugged appearance, +there being neither moss nor grass on the rocks to soften their +asperities. + +At 7 A.M. on the 3rd, when a few miles past Point Hargrave, being +completely stopped by ice, we put ashore and found a large wooden +sledge, which we cut up for fuel. The wood was evidently the planks of +some vessel (probably of the Fury or Sir John Ross's steamer the +Victory) as there were holes in it bored with an auger. After working +our way a mile or two further, we arrived at a high rocky cape having +three elevations upon it lying east and west from each other. This +headland, which was honoured with the name of the lady of Sir John H. +Pelly, Bart., Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, is situated in +latitude 67° 28' N.; longitude by account 87° 40' W.; variation of the +compass 82° 36' W. + +It was low water to-day at 11 A.M., the fall of the tide being 8½ feet, +and the depth of water within a hundred yards of the beach from 3 to 5 +fathoms, on a bottom of mud or sand. + +Shortly after noon a fog came on so thick that we could only see a few +yards round us; we, however, pushed our way for 2½ miles beyond Cape +Lady Pelly, along a flat coast lined with mud banks from eight to ten +feet high, frozen solid within a foot of the surface. At 4 P.M. the ice +was too closely packed to allow us to proceed; we therefore turned +towards the shore, and after some trouble effected a landing. The fog +still continued so thick, that, after wandering about for a few miles, I +had much difficulty in finding the boat again, hid as it was by the +surrounding masses of ice. We were much at a loss for drinkable water, +there not being a drop in the neighbourhood but what resembled chocolate +in appearance. + +In the forenoon some wolves, part of a band that had serenaded us last +night with their dismal howlings, were seen prowling about; and a +white-winged silvery gull (_L. leucopterus_), a diminutive sandpiper +(_tringa minuta_), and a marmot were shot. + +4th.--There was a drizzling rain with thick fog all night, but not a +breath of wind. As the tide flowed the ice moved slowly and silently +round us, so that in the morning we had not more than a yard or two of +open water near us, being blocked in on all sides by pieces from 15 to +20 feet thick. The rise of the tide was not less than nine feet. In the +forenoon I walked upwards of five miles along the shore to the +north-westward, passing a few low sandy points about a mile and a half +from each other, which formed a succession of small bays, into each of +which a ravine with high and steep mud banks opened, down which a +streamlet of pea-soup-coloured water flowed. We fell in with the heads +and horns of several musk cattle and reindeer, and saw recent footmarks +of some of the latter, but they had probably been driven some distance +away by the wolves we saw yesterday. Marmots were numerous in every +direction, chattering to each other, and rising on their hind legs to +obtain a better view of the strangers. Many golden plovers and +different kinds of sandpipers were flying about, and a jager (_L. +parasiticus_) was shot: some plants were also collected. The travelling +along this coast was extremely fatiguing, being very often nearly +knee-deep in a very adhesive mud. + +The thermometer rose as high as 70° in the forenoon; in the afternoon it +fell to 48°; and in the evening the weather was cold and unpleasant, +with heavy rain. + +5th.--During the greater part of last night the rain continued, but it +was perfectly calm, although by the lead of the clouds we were in hopes +of a breeze of wind off shore. Our boat being in danger of injury from +some heavy masses of ice that were turning over near us, we moved a +dozen yards nearer the land. Our new situation, however, was little +better than the one we had left, for as soon as the tide began to ebb +large pieces of our "enemy" broke away and fell with a loud crash close +alongside of us. It was high-water this morning at 3 o'clock, the rise +of the tide being 11 feet 6 inches, whilst that of yesterday evening was +only 5½ feet, an irregularity resembling that which was observed by +Captain Sir J. Ross on the shores of Boothia. The temperature of the air +in the morning was 46°, but rose to 65° during the day, which was very +hazy, with occasional showers and a fresh breeze off shore; but this had +not the slightest effect upon the ice, and led me to believe that the +Esquimaux report as to the navigation being always obstructed here is +correct. + +Seeing that there was no probability of our getting along shore towards +Dease and Simpson's farthest, I determined to retrace our route, and if +possible cross over to Melville Peninsula for the purpose of surveying +its western shore, towards the Strait of the Fury and Hecla. + +In the evening, when the tide, which on the present occasion rose only +4½ feet, was in, we endeavoured to extricate ourselves; and after some +hours of hard labour in chopping off some points of ice, and pushing +aside such pieces as were not aground, we got a few hundred yards from +the beach, and into water a little more open. + +About half-past ten a young buck was observed on a piece of ice +half-a-mile to seaward, having been forced to take the water to avoid +some wolves, one or two of which were seen skulking along shore watching +for the return of the animal. The state of our larder did not permit us +to be merciful, so the poor deer had little chance of escape from his +biped and quadruped enemies when acting in concert. After a long chase +he was shot whilst swimming from one floe to another. Having pulled and +poled along shore all night, we landed for breakfast at 8 h. 30 m. A.M., +on the 6th, about three miles to the south of Point Hargrave. The +continued rain and fog had so completely saturated everything with damp +that we had not a dry stitch of clothes to put on, and our bedding and +fuel were in the same state; fortunately the weather was mild, so that +we did not feel much inconvenience from this. + +Finding that the ice was clearing away a little--the effect of a +south-east wind,--we directed our course towards the nearest point of +Melville Peninsula, which bore east (true) of us, distant ten miles, and +after threading our way among much heavy and close-packed floes, which +obliged us to make frequent and long detours, after five hours' hard +work we reached the land during a thunder-storm accompanied by torrents +of rain. + +Our landing place was a long rocky point having a deep ice-filled inlet +on its south side. To this point I gave the name of Cape Thomas Simpson, +after the late enterprising traveller of that name. + +As we could not proceed on account of the thick fog and the state of the +ice, we secured the boat to the rocks, and the men although drenched to +the skin went immediately to sleep, eighteen hours of hard work at the +oars and ice-poles having thoroughly tired them all. + +During the night of the 6th the weather was thick with occasional rain, +but about 6 in the morning of the 7th a fresh breeze from the south-east +dispersed the fog. As soon as it was cleared up we renewed our voyage, +but our progress was very slow, having our old opponent to contend with; +in four hours we gained as many miles and were again stopped. Seeing +some deer near the beach, we landed, and whilst two of us had a +fruitless chase after them the remainder of the party were busy cooking +and drying our clothes, blankets, &c. The temperature of the air was +52°, that of the water 35°. + +The breeze gradually increased as the day advanced, and went round to +the east, which drove the ice a short distance from the shore. We +embarked again between 9 and 10 A.M., and ran to the eastward for a +league or more, when the breeze having changed into a heavy gale, our +boat ran great risk of being injured by the ice, of which we found it +impossible to keep altogether clear. We therefore pulled up to a number +of grounded pieces (a line of which completely barred us from the +shore), and made fast to the largest of them. In getting this far we +were in much danger from the falling, or breaking off, of overhanging +masses (some of them 20 feet in height), which were crashing all around +us, and under which we had frequently to pass. At 5 A.M. our floe got +afloat, and began driving to leeward at a great rate. We just got the +boat clear in time to prevent its being crushed against a berg that +still remained fast. Some of the smaller pieces lying between us and the +land having now floated, we managed to clear a passage for ourselves; +yet although we had only a quarter of a mile to go, so strong was the +gale that it required the utmost exertions of six men at the oars to +reach the shore, when, having secured the boat and raised an oilcloth to +keep off the rain, which had again commenced, we had our supper of +pemmican and water, and retired to bed for the night. + +8th.--On getting up this morning I found that it had become quite calm, +and that the ice was coming in so thick and fast with the flood tide, +that we had to move from our position as fast as possible. On pushing +out to sea it soon became apparent that we could not proceed on our +course, and that there was but little open water in the direction from +whence we had come, and even that was fast filling up. As we could +neither advance nor remain in safety where we were, there was only one +course open to us, and that was to return towards the place from which +we had started. + +It was now evident that this large bay was completely full of ice; for +had this not been the case, the gale of yesterday must have cleared the +coast for many miles. It was with a sad heart that I turned the head of +our boat towards our starting point, where I purposed to await some +favourable change in the state of the ice, and at the same time learn +how the people left at Repulse Bay were getting on with preparations for +wintering, which now appeared inevitable. The weather continued so much +overcast that no observations could be obtained. In the afternoon a +light breeze sprang up from W.N.W., which enabled us to reach in a short +time Ross Inlet, where we had some trouble in finding the entrance of +the river on account of the altered appearance of the rocks, it being +now nearly low water and the shore clear of ice, compared with what it +formerly was. We had much difficulty in towing up to the Salt Lake +before mentioned, as the narrow but deep channel which led to it was, at +this state of the tide, one continued rapid, and so strong was the +force of the stream that our tracking line broke. We were soon snug in +the Salt Lake, but had not been more than half an hour under shelter +before almost every spot of open water outside was filled with ice, so +rapidly had it followed in our wake. + +When we arrived opposite the tents of our Esquimaux friends, they came +running down to the beach led on by the old lady whose fluency of speech +I have already remarked, and who appeared determined to sustain her +character on this occasion by making more noise than all the others put +together, and expressing her joy at our return by loud shouts. The old +people had during our absence been joined by the musk-ox hunters, two +fine young active-looking fellows (named Ark-shuk and I-vit-chuck) and +their wives. These women were the cleanest and best-looking I had yet +seen. They were tatooed much in the same way as those at Repulse Bay. +The hunters said they had been unsuccessful, but as each of the women +had the tail, or a portion of the shaggy hair of the neck, of a musk-ox +in her hand as a musquito flapper, their veracity was rather doubted. +There was only one child with them, a sickly-looking boy of six or seven +years, stepson to a man named Shi-shak, who arrived about an hour after +us in his kayak from an unprofitable walrus hunt. + +I learnt from our Esquimaux acquaintances that the deer had commenced +migrating southward. This being the case, I prepared to walk across to +Repulse Bay to see what progress the party left there had made in their +work. The weather had been so cloudy for the last week that no +observations of any value could be obtained. + +Leaving three men and Ouligbuck's son in charge of the boat, I started +at 6.30 A.M. on the 9th, in company with Corrigal, N. Germain, and +Matheson, to cross the isthmus, taking a S.S.E. direction; but it was +impossible to keep this course for any great distance, as we were forced +to make long circuits to avoid precipices and arms of lakes. After a +most fatiguing day's march over hill and dale, through swamp and stream, +we halted at half-past 6 P.M. close to the second portage crossed on our +outward route. To gain a distance of twenty miles we had travelled not +less than thirty. Our supper was soon finished, as it was neither +luxurious nor required much cooking, consisting of our staple +commodities pemmican "cold with water." + +10th.--The morning was raw and cold with some hoar frost, and there not +being a blanket among the party and only two coats, our sleep was +neither long, sound, nor refreshing. In fact I had carried no coat with +me except a thin Macintosh, which, being damp from the rain of +yesterday, had become an excellent conductor of caloric, and added to +the chilly feeling instead of keeping it off. + +There is one advantage in an uncomfortable bed; it induces early rising, +and it proved so in the present instance, for we had finished breakfast +and resumed our journey by half-past 2 A.M. The travelling was as +difficult as that of yesterday, but we had the advantage of a cool +morning and got on more easily. At 7 o'clock we arrived at the narrows +which separate Christie and North Pole Lakes, where we found the greater +number of the Esquimaux we had seen, encamped, waiting for deer crossing +over. Some of them immediately got into their kayaks and paddled across +to our side of the lake, but with so much caution that it was evident we +had not yet wholly gained their confidence. + +At 2 P.M. we arrived at Repulse Bay with most enviable appetites, but +rather foot-sore, our shoes and socks having been entirely worn through +long before we reached our destination. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + State of things at Repulse Bay--Determine to discontinue the + survey till the spring--Reasons--Party sent to bring over the + boat--Fix on a site for winter residence--Ptarmigan--Laughing + geese--Eider and king ducks--Visits of natives too + frequent--Return of the party sent for the boat--Report the bay + more closely packed than before--Preparations for + wintering--Fort Hope built--Proceed to North Pole and Christie + Lakes to look out for fishing stations--Purchase dogs--Wariness + of the deer--Flocks of geese pass southward--Blue-winged and + snow-geese--Their habits--Snow-storm--Its effects--Return to + Fort Hope--Daily routine--Signs of winter--Deer + numerous--Quantity of game killed--Provision-store built of + snow--Great fall of snow--Effects of the cold--Adventure with a + deer--Visited by a party of natives--Their report of the ice + westward of Melville Peninsula--An island said to be + wooded--Produce of the chase in October--Temperature--Two + observatories built of snow--Band of wolves--A party caught in a + snow-storm--Esquimaux theory of the heavenly bodies--Temperature + of November--Diminished supply of provisions. + +On our arrival at Repulse Bay we found the men all well, but getting no +more fish and venison than was barely sufficient to support them. Having +taken but a scanty breakfast, I fully enjoyed my dinner here, but I +reversed the usual order of eating the same, taking my venison steak +first (it being soonest cooked), and salmon as second course. + +This was to me the most anxious period during the expedition; nor will +this appear strange when I mention that it was necessary to decide, and +that promptly, on one of two modes of proceeding, namely, whether to +leave the whole survey to be completed during the following spring and +summer, or to endeavour to follow it up this autumn. After mature +consideration I determined on adopting the first of these measures, and +giving up all hopes of prosecuting the survey at present. + +My reasons for arriving at this conclusion I shall briefly mention, as +such a step may appear rather premature. I saw from the state of the ice +and the prevalence of northerly winds that there was no probability of +completing the whole of the proposed survey this season; and although +part of the coast, either towards the Strait of Fury and Hecla, or +towards Dease and Simpson's farthest, might be traced, yet to accomplish +even this might detain us so long that there would be no time to make +the necessary preparations for wintering, and we should thus be under +the necessity of returning to Churchill without accomplishing the object +of the expedition, or, if we remained at Repulse Bay, run the risk of +starving, for I could obtain no promise of supplies from the natives, +and all the provisions we had carried with us would not go far to +support the party throughout the winter. We should thus have to depend +almost, if not altogether, upon our own exertions for the means of +existence both in regard to food and fuel. + +It ought to be borne in mind that we were differently situated from any +party that had hitherto gone to these cold and barren regions. The +resources of the country were quite unknown to us; it was not likely +that the deer would remain near at hand all winter, as we were at too +great a distance from the woods; and it was very evident, for the same +reason, that we should not be able to procure any sort of fuel after the +first fall of snow, which there was little doubt would occur some time +in September. + +Before reaching the Arctic Sea to the west of Melville Peninsula, I was +for various reasons inclined to agree with the opinion of Sir John Ross, +"that Boothia was part of the continent of America." This opinion was +strengthened when I observed the great rise and fall of the tide, which +must have affected the tides at the Castor and Pollux River, had there +been a strait of any width separating Boothia from the mainland, unless +indeed the assumption of Captain Sir J. Ross, that "the sea to the west +of Boothia stands at a higher level than that on the east side," be +correct. In that case there would be a continual easterly current, which +could scarcely fail to have been noticed by so acute an observer as +Simpson. + +Retaining one man with myself to guard our stores and attend the nets, +on the 11th I sent over the remaining six to assist in bringing over the +boat. Ouligbuck had now been about two days looking for deer, and I +began to feel anxious about him, when he made his appearance between 9 +and 10 A.M. with the venison of a young deer on his back. + +As soon as my companion had returned from the nets, out of which he got +no fish, I took a walk for the purpose of looking out for fishing +stations and a site for our winter house. For the latter I could find no +better place than a narrow but not deep valley within a few hundred +yards of our landing-place, and about a hundred and fifty from North +Pole River on its east side. There appeared to be various small bays +along shore to the eastward which were likely to produce fish. A flock +of laughing geese (_anser albifrons_) flew past quite close to me; but +having only my rifle, I could but send a ball after them and missed as +was to be expected. + +In a small pond an eider-duck was observed with her young brood +apparently not more than twelve days old. The male eider and king ducks +had already left this quarter, having migrated to the southward. + +12th.--A cloudy day with a strong breeze from N.N.W. Two salmon and a +trout were got from the nets, but Ouligbuck killed no deer. In the +evening, when on my way to set a net in a lake at no great distance, I +fell in with a covey of ptarmigan, (_T. rupestris_), most of the young +being strong on the wing, and bagged eighteen brace in an hour or two. +Knocking down those birds on this day made me half fancy myself among +the grouse in my own barren native hills. + +On the 13th the weather was raw and cold with frequent showers, and a +gale of wind from the same quarter as the day before. Four salmon were +caught, and a deer was shot. The thermometer varied from 36° to 38°. +Four Esquimaux men and two women visited us to-day. + +The 14th was much like the 13th, but there was no rain. As the visits of +the natives had now become rather frequent, and as they brought nothing +with them, but appeared to expect both food and presents, I bade +Ouligbuck say that we could not afford to feed them any longer, and that +they had better return to their huts, where I knew they were killing +deer enough to support themselves. On returning from my daily walk, I +found that our friends had taken leave rather hurriedly, having been +detected appropriating some salt fish, which they could not eat. For +this they were sharply reprimanded by the interpreter, and one of the +ladies was most ungallantly accused by her husband of being the +offender. Corrigal and I hauled the seine in the evening and caught +thirty-three salmon; fourteen more were got out of the nets. + +15th.--This was a beautiful day throughout. In the evening, the sky +being clear and cloudless, some stars were visible, and a few streaks of +orange-coloured aurora showed themselves to the southward. The seine was +again hauled, and thirty-two salmon (some of them very small) caught, +whilst the nets produced eleven more. Just as we were landing our fish, +the men who had been taking over the boat made their appearance, being a +day earlier than I expected. By keeping the proper route three of the +portages were avoided, and they had the advantage of a fine fair breeze +all through the lakes. The large bay (Akkoolee) was reported as being +more closely packed with ice than before. This was nothing but what I +should have expected after the late north-westerly winds. + +The two Esquimaux, Arkshuk and Ivitchuk, ("Anglice" Aurora and Walrus,) +who had been engaged to aid in dragging the boat over the portages, had +wrought well, and readily accommodated themselves to the habits of the +men. They were well recompensed; and Ivitchuk (a merry little fellow) +was engaged to accompany me on my intended spring journeys. + +The boat was for the present left at North Pole Lake, as it might still +be required there. + +The 16th was a day of rest, and the 17th was so stormy and wet that +little work could be done. + +All hands were now busily employed making preparations for a long and +dreary winter; for this purpose four men were set to work to collect +stones for building a house, whilst the others were occupied in setting +nets, hunting deer, and gathering fuel. Our work was much impeded by +rainy weather, particularly the house building, as the clay or mud was +washed away as soon as applied. + +We found that our nets were so much cut up by a small marine insect from +a half to three-quarters of an inch long, resembling a shrimp in +miniature--the favourite food of the salmon--that it was quite +impossible to keep them in repair. I thought to destroy their taste for +hemp by steeping the nets in a strong decoction of tobacco, but it had +no effect. + +On the 2nd September our house was finished; its internal dimensions +were 20 feet long by 14 feet broad, height in front 7½ feet, sloping to +5½ at the back. We formed a very good roof by using the oars and masts +of our boats as rafters, and covering them with oilcloth and moose skin, +the latter being fixed to the lower or inside of the rafters, whilst the +former was placed on the outside to run off the rain. The door was made +of parchment deer-skins stretched over a frame of wood. The walls were +fully two feet thick, with three small openings, in which a like number +of windows, each having two panes of glass, were placed. + +Our establishment was dignified with the name of Fort Hope, and was +situated in 66° 32' 16" N.; longitude (by a number of sets of lunar +distances with objects on both sides of the moon) 86° 55' 51" W. The +variation of the compass on 30th August was 62° 50' 30" W.; mean dip of +the needle, and the mean twice of a hundred vertical vibrations in the +line of declination 226". + +A sort of room was formed at one end by putting up a partition of +oilcloth. In this, besides its serving as my quarters, all our pemmican +and some of the other stores were stowed away. + +From the 5th to the 13th I was up at North Pole and Christie Lakes in +the boat with three men, our object being to look out for fishing +stations, and also to purchase dogs from the Esquimaux. The wind being +from the north, we did not reach the Esquimaux encampment till the 10th. +They had shifted their tents from the narrows to a small point about +eight miles up Christie Lake, where the deer were more numerous, among +which they seemed to have made great havoc, to judge by the abundance of +skins and venison lying in all directions. Our friends were delighted to +see us, and had improved much in appearance, the only poor animals about +them being their dogs, which appeared to get no more to eat than was +barely sufficient to keep them in life. I looked out four of the best, +being all I wanted at present, for which I promised a dagger each, +intending to take them with us on our return. During our stay here a +band of deer came to the edge of the lake, and after feeding a short +time took the water. Three of the natives slipped noiselessly into their +kayaks, and lay waiting, until the deer were far enough out in the +water, to intercept them, but just as they were on the eve of starting +the wind changed a little, and the deer smelling their enemy wheeled +about, and were soon in safety on the beach from which they had started. + +Many large flocks of Hutchins and snow geese had been seen for the last +few days passing to the southward. The blue-winged goose of Edwards is +by some ornithologists considered as the young of the last named bird in +one of its stages towards maturity, but this opinion I believe to be +erroneous, for the following reasons. + +During a ten years' residence at Moose Factory, on the shores of +Hudson's Bay, I had many opportunities, every spring and autumn, of +observing both the snow and the blue-winged goose in their passage to +and from their breeding places, the marshes near Moose being favourite +feeding ground. + +In spring both species are very nearly alike in size, the blue-winged +goose, although shorter, being rather the heavier bird. In the autumn +there are four distinct varieties, two of which exactly resemble in size +and plumage those seen in the spring, whilst the others are much +smaller, and differ much from these and from each other in their +markings; the young of the snow goose being of a light grey colour, +darkest on the head and upper part of the neck; whilst the young of the +blue-winged goose is of a dark slate colour, approaching to black on the +head and neck. Neither do the young separate from the old, as has been +asserted; for families may be seen feeding by themselves all over the +marshes, the old bird keeping a sharp look-out, and giving timely +warning to her brood of any approaching danger. In fact the Indian, who +has thoroughly studied the habits of the bird, takes advantage of her +affection for her young, and of their attachment to their parent, to +make both his prey. Well knowing that the young are easily decoyed by +imitating their call and by mock geese set up in the marsh, and that the +old bird, although more shy, will follow them, he waits patiently until +she comes within range; if he shoots her he is pretty sure to kill the +greater part of the others, as they continue to fly over and around the +place for some time after. + +During the night of the 10th, when near the north end of the lake, we +experienced one of the severest snow storms I ever witnessed. As we were +sleeping on shore we never thought of putting up any sort of shelter; +the consequence was that in the morning we were covered with snow to the +depth of a foot. Our boat, which had been hauled up on the beach, was +blown away from her fastenings, and carried several hundred yards into +the lake among some stones. Being the only one of the party provided on +the spot with Macintosh boots, it fell to my lot to wade out to the +boat, throw overboard the ballast, lift her bows over the stones, and +take a line to the shore; which, from having miscalculated the depth of +the water, I found a more disagreeable task than I had expected. +Fortunately the boat sustained no injury. It was now about 6 o'clock in +the morning of the 11th, and as the storm continued unabated we made a +sort of tent of our sails. In doing this the men got so wet and cold, +from the snow thawing on them, that they could not even light their +pipes. + +In the afternoon the weather improved, and we were able to scrape a +little fuel together, with which we cooked some salmon and boiled a +kettle of tea, which made us feel quite comfortable again. We thus +combined breakfast, dinner, and supper in one meal. + +The hares had already acquired their winter coat, and the golden plovers +and sandpipers had all disappeared, but some Lapland and snow-buntings +and the shore-lark were still to be seen. + +A little after noon on the 13th the wind shifted to the S.W., and we got +under weigh to return home. A couple of hours brought us to the +Esquimaux, where we stopped to take on board our dogs. A young lad also +came with us to carry some medicine for the patriarch of the tribe, who +was labouring under various complaints peculiar to old age. We arrived +at North Pole River at 6 P.M., having had a beautiful run all the way. + +As we were not likely to require the boat on the lakes again this +season, she was hauled up and placed in security for the winter. While +at the lake we had not been able to procure much more food than was +necessary for our own use, but this may in part have been attributable +to the bad weather. + +The storm of the 10th had been much felt at our house, and so great was +its force that the boat left there was lifted a few yards by it, but +received no injury. Much heavy ice was driven into the bay and lay +heaped up all along the shore. + +Our house was still far from comfortable, the clay being quite wet and +producing a most unpleasant feeling of dampness,--far more disagreeable +than a much lower temperature with dry weather. + +Our time was now continually occupied in collecting fuel, (portions of +which, as soon as it became dry, were built up into small heaps on the +rocks near the house,) in fishing, and in shooting deer and partridges. + +The routine of our day's work was as follows: in the morning we were up +before day-light; the men got their orders for the several duties they +had to perform, which were principally carried on out of doors, and at +which they set to work immediately after rolling up their bedding and +taking breakfast. This meal usually consisted of boiled venison, the +water with which it was cooked being converted into a very excellent +soup by the addition of some deer's blood, and a handful or two of +flour. + +Our dinner, or rather supper, consisted of the same materials as our +breakfast, and was taken about 4 or 5 o'clock; after that, my time was +employed in writing my journal or making calculations; whilst the men +were busy improving themselves in reading, arithmetic, &c., in which I +assisted them as much as my time would permit. Divine service was read +every Sunday when practicable. + +On the 20th the pools of water were covered with ice sufficiently strong +to be walked upon, and on the 28th some hooks were set under the ice on +the lakes for trout. During the latter part of the month deer were very +numerous. As many as seventeen were shot on the 28th, and on the +following day ten more were got, seven of which were killed by myself +within a few miles of the house. On the 29th a considerable portion of +the bay was frozen over, and the seals were seen popping up their heads +every now and then through the ice to keep breathing places open. + +The weather during this month having been very changeable and stormy, +and unfavourable for observations of all kinds, the sextant had +frequently been exchanged for the rifle--a not unwelcome exchange to one +addicted to field-sports "from his youth upwards." + +Our sporting book for the month showed that we had been doing something +towards laying in a stock of provisions for winter; 63 deer, 5 hares, +one seal, 172 partridges, and 116 salmon and trout, had been brought in. + +October.--During the first part of this month some of the men were +employed in building a store of snow for our provisions, and covering it +with two of the sails. On the 12th and three following days there was +one continued storm which drifted the snow all round the house as high +as the roof, and on the night of the 15th would have choked all our dogs +that were chained outside, had not Adamson and another got up and cut +their fastenings. On the 16th, when it cleared up, the thermometer first +fell to zero. + +The cold had now penetrated in-doors and frozen the clay on the walls, +which made us much more comfortable. On attempting to open some books +that had been lying on a shelf, I was surprised to find that the leaves +were all frozen together; when I mention this, and also that our powder +horns and every other article that was bound with brass or silver burst +their fastenings, some idea may be formed of the dampness of our house +whilst the clay on the walls was wet. + +On the 19th, when out shooting, having killed one deer, I went in +pursuit of another (a large buck) that had been wounded, and put four +balls through him. Thinking that the last ball had settled the business, +(for he had fallen,) I went carelessly up to him without re-loading my +rifle, and when within a few yards I believe I apostrophized the animal +much in the following strain--"Ah! poor fellow, you are done for at +last!" when the deer, as if he had understood what I said, and thought I +was adding insult to injury, sprung to his legs in a moment, and at a +couple of bounds his horns were within a foot of me. Circumstanced as I +was, I thought with Falstaff "that discretion was the better part of +valour", and beat a hasty retreat, laughing heartily all the time at the +strange figure we must have made. Taking the deer by the horns could +have been of no use, and might have cost me some troublesome bruises and +scratches. + +Twelve Esquimaux and a boy visited us on the 23rd; among whom was the +man (named Shi-ma-kuk) to whom the sledge belonged, part of which we had +used for fuel when near Cape Lady Pelly with the boat. He was now +rewarded, and apparently so much to his satisfaction that he would have +had no objections to have another sledge burnt on the same terms. They +reported that the bay, to the west of Melville Peninsula, had been +packed full of ice ever since we were over there, until a few days +before they came away, when there was some open water to be seen. +Besides purchasing five dozen rein-deer tongues, a seal-skin full of +oil, and some other articles, we added two good dogs to our team. + +Among other information they told me that there was an island in +Akkoolee (the large bay west of Melville Peninsula,) named Sha-took, +(which means low or flat,) on which large trees grew; but they +acknowledged that none of them had ever been on the island, although +they had been near enough to see the trees distinctly. In this I believe +their imaginations had deceived them, aided perhaps in some degree by a +peculiar state of the atmosphere, during which the appearance of the +land has been so distorted that it has been mistaken for woods. Some +round sticks, probably spars belonging to one of the two vessels left in +Prince Regent's Inlet, having been picked up along the west shore of +Melville Peninsula, had no doubt strengthened the opinion they had +formed. Two of their party whom we had never seen, were drowned in Miles +Lake by falling through the ice; the one in chasing a deer, and the +other, it is supposed, in attempting to save his companion. + +Our visitors left us on the 25th, promising to return soon with some +deer-skin dresses. During the whole of the month we were occupied much +the same way as in the previous one. Deer were numerous during the first +part of it, but scarce latterly; sixty-nine were shot, but the produce +of our nets had fallen very low, eighteen salmon and four trout being +all we caught. The highest temperature of the month was 38°, whilst the +lowest was 15°. Although there was a great deal of very stormy weather, +there were some clear calm nights, of which I took advantage to obtain +lunar distances. + +Two observatories had been built of snow, with a pillar of ice in each +(at the suggestion of Captain Lefroy, R.A.), the one for the dip circle, +the other for an horizontally suspended needle to try the effects of the +aurora upon it. + +So much snow had fallen that it lay four feet deep on the roof of our +meat store, and was near breaking the masts which supported it; so that +we were obliged to raise its walls about a fathom to prevent such an +occurrence in future. + +On the 4th November, when out looking for deer a little before day-light +in the morning, I observed a band of animals coming over a rising ground +at a quick pace directly towards me. I at first supposed them to be +deer, but on a nearer approach they proved to be wolves, seventeen in +number. They continued to advance at full speed until within forty +yards, when they formed a sort of half circle to leeward. Hoping to send +a ball through one of them, I knelt down and took what I thought a sure +aim at a large fellow that was nearest; unfortunately it was not yet +broad day-light, and the rascals all kept end on to me, so that the ball +merely cut off a line of hair and a piece of skin from his side. They +apparently did not expect to meet with such a reception, for after +looking at me a second or two they trotted off, no doubt as much +disappointed at not making a breakfast of me as I was at missing my aim. +Had they come to close quarters (which they sometimes do when pressed +hard for food) I had a large and strong knife which would have proved a +very efficient weapon. On my way home I shot three hares. + +On the 5th two partridges were shot which very much resembled the tetrao +saliceti, but which I suppose to be the T. mutus. The parasitę found on +them differed from those usually found on the willow grouse. + +We began during this month to find that we could not afford fuel to dry +our clothes; I therefore adopted the plan that a celebrated miser took +to warm his food, by taking them under the blankets with me at night, +and drying them by the heat of the body. This, it may be supposed, was +not very agreeable, particularly when the weather became colder, for the +moisture froze during the day on the blankets, which sparkled with hoar +frost when I went to bed. + +In the afternoon of the 9th we had one of the most severe snow storms +that had yet been experienced, and I was much alarmed at the non-arrival +of four men who had gone in the morning to examine some nets and set +others in North Pole Lake eight miles from the house. Guns were fired to +attract the attention of the party, who made their appearance at +half-past 8 P.M., when we had given up all hopes of seeing them until +the following day. They had been upwards of eight hours in coming as +many miles, and were like walking pillars of snow when they came in. The +four dogs they had with them were still missing, having run off with the +sled as soon as they smelt the house. On the following day they were +found entangled with one another, and the sled stuck fast against some +rocks. One or two of the dogs were completely covered up with snow, but +all safe. + +About 2 P.M. on the 25th, two Esquimaux men and a boy, named Arkshuk +(Aurora Borealis), Took-oo-lak (the falling stick), and Che-mik-tee +(snuff), came to see us with deer-skin clothes, &c. for barter. + +I had a good deal of conversation through the interpreters with Arkshuk, +whom I found rather intelligent and communicative. It appears that the +favourite food of these Esquimaux is musk-ox flesh; venison ranks next, +and bear and walrus are preferred to seal and fish. Their theory +regarding the sun and moon is rather peculiar. It is said that many +years ago, not long after the creation of the world, there was a mighty +conjuror (Esquimaux of course), who gained so much power that at last he +raised himself up into the heavens, taking with him his sister (a +beautiful girl) and a fire. To the latter he added great quantities of +fuel, which thus formed the sun. For some time he and his sister lived +in great harmony, but at last they disagreed, and he, in addition to +maltreating the lady in many ways, at last scorched one side of her +face. She had suffered patiently all sorts of indignities, but the +spoiling of her beauty was not to be borne; she therefore ran away from +him and formed the moon, and continues so until this day. Her brother is +still in chase of her, but although he sometimes gets near, he will +never overtake her. When it is new moon, the burnt side of the face is +towards us; when full moon, the reverse is the case. + +The stars are supposed to be the spirits of the dead Esquimaux that have +fixed themselves in the heavens, and falling stars, or meteors, and the +aurora borealis, are those spirits moving from one place to another +whilst visiting their friends. + +The highest, lowest, and mean temperature of November were respectively ++28°, -25°, and +0.68. Only twelve deer, nine hares, and a few +partridges had been shot, whilst our nets produced about sixty fish, the +greater part of which were small. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + Winter arrangements completed--Learn to build snow + houses--Christmas-day--North Pole River frozen to the + bottom--1st January--Cheerfulness of the men--Furious + snow-storm--Observatories blown down--Boat buried under the + snow--Ouligbuck caught in the storm--Dog attacked by a + wolf--Party of natives take up their residence near Fort + Hope--Esquimaux mentioned by Sir John Ross known to them--Boat + dug out of the snow--A runaway wife--Deer begin to migrate + northward--A wolf-chase--First deer of the season + shot--Difficulty of deer-hunting in spring--Dimensions of an + Esquimaux canoe--Serious accident to Ouligbuck--A + conjuror--Preparations for the journey + northward--Temperature--Aurora Borealis. + +During December we completed our various buildings, and formed passages +under the snow, so that we could without exposure go to any of them. +There were four houses, viz.: one for provisions, another for fuel, a +third for oil, dog's meat, &c., and a fourth for the men's spare +luggage, for which there was no room in the dwelling-house, and which +had been stowed in the tents until it was found necessary to take them +down. + +Being desirous of requiring as little assistance from the Esquimaux as +possible, I attempted to build a snow house after the native fashion, +and succeeded tolerably well; finding that the process was not so +difficult as I anticipated, after a few trials one or two of the men +became very good masons. We had now no encouragement to move much about, +as there was no game to be seen, and the weather was very unsettled, and +consequently no more exercise was taken than was necessary to keep us in +good health. In stormy weather, not being able to get out of doors, the +men wrestled or played some game which called the muscles into action, +and thus kept up the animal heat. + +On the 21st, the sun's lower limb rose about double his diameter above a +rising ground to the southward, on a level with Fort Hope. On the 23rd +and 24th, whilst looking out some good venison for our Christmas dinner, +we examined our stock of such provisions, and found that we had not +enough to last us until the return of the deer in spring; fortunately we +had still a good supply of pemmican left. + +Christmas-day was passed very agreeably, but the weather was so stormy +and cold that only a very short game at foot-ball could be played. Short +as it was, however, it was sufficiently amusing, for our faces were +every moment getting frost-bitten either in one place or another, so as +to require the continual application of the hand; and the rubbing, +running about, and kicking the ball all at the same time, produced a +very ludicrous effect. + +Our dinner was composed of excellent venison and a plum-pudding, with a +moderate allowance of brandy punch to drink a health to absent friends. + +For some time past, washing the face had been rather an unpleasant +operation, as any water that got among the hair froze upon it +immediately. This is mentioned by Sir George Back as having occurred +once to him at Fort Reliance, in 1833. On the 28th, North Pole River got +frozen to the bottom, so that we were forced to go to a lake to the S.W. +of Beacon Hill, about half a mile distant, for water. + +The 1st of January was as beautiful a day as we could have wished to +begin the new year with. There was a light air of wind, and the +temperature varied from -23° to -26°. After a most excellent breakfast +of fat venison steaks, all the party were occupied for some hours with a +spirited game at foot-ball, at which there was much fun, the snow being +so hard and slippery that several pairs of heels might be seen in the +air at the same time. + +My dinner consisted of part of a hare and rein-deer tongue, with a +currant pudding as second course. The men's mess was much like my own, +except that they had venison instead of hare. A small supply of brandy +was served out, and on the whole I do not believe that a more happy +company could have been found in America, large as it is. 'Tis true +that an agreeable companion to join me in a glass of punch, to drink a +health to absent friends, to speak of by-gone times and speculate on the +future, might have made the evening pass more pleasantly, yet I was far +from unhappy. To hear the merry joke, the hearty laugh, and lively song +among my men, was of itself a source of much pleasure. + +On the 7th the tracks of a few deer were unexpectedly seen within a few +miles of the house; and on the following day the thermometer showed a +temperature of -47°, the lowest we experienced during the winter. + +The 9th was a more disagreeable day than any we had yet had. A storm +from the north with thick snow-drift, and a temperature of 72° below the +freezing point, made it feel bitterly cold. Fortunately we had some days +before made a house for our dogs, else they must have inevitably been +frozen to death. Such was the force of the gale for two days that both +observatories were completely demolished, and wherever the snow banks +projected in the slightest degree above the surrounding level, they were +worn away by the friction of the snow-drift as if cut with a knife. + +The thermometer indoors varied from 29° to 40° below the freezing point; +which would not have been unpleasant where there was a fire to warm the +hands and feet, or even room to move about; but where there was neither +the one nor the other, some few degrees more heat would have been +preferable. + +As we could not go for water we were forced to thaw snow, and take only +one meal each day. My waistcoat after a week's wearing became so stiff +from the condensation and freezing of my breath upon it, that I had much +trouble to get it buttoned. + +The gale did not subside until the 15th, when we were busily employed +repairing the damages done by the wind and drift. As a great weight of +snow had lodged upon our boat, we were afraid she might be injured by +the pressure, and some of the men were employed to search for her, but +there was some difference of opinion about her exact situation, and it +was two days before she was found, after digging to the depth of eight +feet. + +A stick was set up at one end of the boat that there might be no +difficulty in finding the place again. + +One cause of discomfort to me was the great quantity of tobacco smoke in +our low and confined house, it being sometimes so thick that no object +could be seen at a couple of yards' distance. The whole party, with the +exception of myself, were most inveterate smokers; indeed it was +impossible to be awake for ten minutes during the night without hearing +the sound of the flint and steel striking a light. Of course I might to +a great extent have put a stop to this, but the poor fellows appeared to +receive so much comfort from the use of the pipe, that it would have +been cruelty to do so for the sake of saving myself a trifling +inconvenience. + +This month was so stormy that the most of our time when we could get +out of doors was passed in clearing away the snow that drifted about our +doors and over the house, and in rebuilding and repairing. The boat, and +also the stick that had been set up as a mark, were completely covered +over. On the 18th Ouligbuck had gone out to hunt, and did not return +till the 25th, after I had given up all hopes of ever seeing him again +in life. It appeared that he had visited the Esquimaux at Christie Lake +for the purpose of speaking to them about not having kept their promise +regarding some oil that they said they would bring to us, and which they +had omitted to do. He had been caught by the storm of the 18th before he +reached his friends, and was obliged to build a snow hut, in which he +passed the night comfortably enough. On the following morning, when it +cleared up a little, he found that he was not more than two hundred +yards from his destination, which the thickness of the weather on the +previous day had prevented him from seeing. + +One of the dogs we had lent this party to aid in drawing some provisions +to the coast had a narrow escape from a wolf. Having broken loose she +set out on her return home, when she was attacked by the wolf, and +treated much in the same way that Tam O'Shanter's mare was by Cutty +Sark, for + + "The wolf had caught her by the rump, + And left poor Surie scarce a stump." + +On the last day of January some Esquimaux, who were to take up their +quarters near us, arrived with part of their luggage and provisions, and +built their snow house near the south side of Beacon Hill. This would +have been the best situation for our establishment, as it was completely +sheltered from the northerly gales, but we were too late in making the +discovery. + +I visited the Esquimaux on the 1st February, and found the old man, +named Shishak, and his wife in their comfortable house, which was so +warm that my waistcoat, which had been frozen quite stiff for some time +past, actually thawed. It was not easy to learn any of the peculiarities +of these people, as Ouligbuck was rather shy about describing their +habits. Ouligbuck's son informed me that even in winter they strip off +all their clothes before going to bed. + +When taking a walk on the 3rd I passed near the Esquimaux, and found one +of them repairing the runners of his sledge. The substance used was a +mixture of moss chopped up fine, and snow soaked in water, lumps of +which are firmly pressed on the sledge with the bare hand, and smoothed +over so as to have an even surface. The process occupied the man nearly +an hour, during the whole of which time he did not put his hands in his +mitts, nor did he appear to feel the cold much, although the temperature +was 30° below zero. + +On the 4th Ouligbuck set his gun for a wolf that had been prowling about +for the last few days. The usual mode is to fix the gun to two sticks +with its muzzle pointed to a bait placed at the distance of fifteen or +twenty yards, with a line attached to it, the other end of which is +fastened to the trigger; but Ouligbuck's plan was quite different from +this. He enclosed the gun in a small snow house, in such a manner that +there was nothing visible but the bait, which was not more than a foot +from the muzzle, so that the shot could scarcely miss the head of the +animal. When Ouligbuck went to his gun next morning, he saw the track of +the wolf, and followed it to the dog-kennel, in which he had comfortably +taken up his quarters; he immediately took the brute by the tail and +dragged him outside much against his will, when he was soon dispatched +with an ice-chisel. This animal was very large, but in the last stage of +starvation, with a severe arrow or gun-shot wound in one thigh. He +measured 5 feet 9 inches from the nose to the tip of the tail, (length +of tail 1 foot 7 inches,) and his height at the shoulder was 2 feet 8 +inches. + +On the 7th a man named Ak-kee-ou-lik, who had promised us four +seal-skins of oil, arrived and said that he could only let us have one, +because the bears had broken into his "cache" and devoured nearly all +its contents. This story I did not believe at the time, and I afterwards +found out that it was false. I felt a good deal annoyed at the man's not +keeping his promise, because we had depended much upon this supply for +fuel and light. To save the former, we had during part of last month +taken only one meal a-day, and discontinued the comfort of a cup of tea +with our evening repast. Of oil, our stock was so small, that we had +been forced to keep early and late hours, namely, lying occasionally +fourteen hours in bed, as we found that to sit up in a house in which +the temperature was some degrees below zero, without either light or +fire, was not very pleasant. Fortunately we all enjoyed excellent +health, and our few discomforts, instead of causing discontent, +furnished us with subjects of merriment. For instance, Hutchison about +this time had his knee frozen in bed, and I believe the poor fellow (who +by-the-bye was the softest of the party) was afterwards very sorry for +letting it be known, as he got so heartily laughed at for his +effeminacy. + +On the 9th, one of the Esquimaux women (wife of Keiktoo-oo) that came to +see us, had a brass wheel 1-1/3 or 2 inches in diameter fastened on her +dress as an ornament. It was evidently part of some instrument, probably +of some of those left by Sir John Ross at Victoria Harbour. I wished to +purchase it, but she would not part with it. + +15th.--Akkeeoulik brought over a large and heavy hoop of iron, which had +been at one time round the rudder head, bowsprit end, or mast head of a +vessel, as he said it had been taken off a large stick. I did not buy it +from him, as he was in disgrace for having disappointed me about the +oil. About 1 P.M. on the same day a number of the natives paid us a +visit, among whom were Ec-vu-chi, I-vit-chuk, and Ou-too-ouniak, three +of the most decent and best behaved of the party. They brought us a +quantity of venison, of which they had still a large stock, and some of +which they were now willing to dispose of, as they found that they had +more than was requisite for their own consumption. + +They had frequently seen Ooblooria, Ikmallik, and some of the other +Esquimaux mentioned by Sir John Ross, and I also further learnt that the +man with the wooden leg, named Tulluahiu, was dead, but how long since I +could not discover. + +The greater part of the men had been employed for the last fourteen days +digging away the snow from the boat to relieve her from the pressure, as +she was covered up to the depth of more than twelve feet. This was no +easy task; however, we managed it in the following manner. Having cut a +narrow opening through the snow down to the boat, we erected a tackle +over it and hoisted up the loose snow, as it was removed with spades and +axes. After excavating a space the full length of the boat, and clearing +the snow out of it, the bow and stern were alternately raised, and the +blocks of snow which were chopped from the top pushed underneath to +prevent its sinking down again. In this way the men could work without +exposure, and when the weather was stormy the hole was covered with a +sail, so that the snow-drift could not interfere with our labours. We +had yesterday got her close to the top of the snow roof, and to-day the +weather being fine she was hauled out and found to be uninjured, except +a small split in one of her thwarts caused by the great weight. She was +now placed in a situation where there was no danger of her being again +drifted over. + +The Esquimaux left us on the 17th, having behaved themselves in the most +exemplary manner. One of Akkeeoulik's wives (quite a young dame with a +most interesting squint) took this opportunity of leaving her husband +and putting herself under the care of her father Outoo-ouniak, the +alleged cause of her dissatisfaction being that she did not get enough +to eat. The disconsolate man followed the party for some distance in +hopes of persuading the runaway to return, but without success. + +Our fuel getting rather scarce, some of the men were sent to dig among +the snow for moss and heather, and they usually got as much in a day as +would cook one meal, but as the spring advanced, and the snow began to +disappear, two men could procure as much as we required. When the men +were taking a walk after divine service on the 21st, they saw the traces +of five deer going northward. + +On the 22nd Turner commenced making two sledges for our spring journeys. +They were to be from 6 to 7 feet long, 17 inches broad, and 7 inches +high. The only wood we had for this purpose was the battens with which +the inside of our boats was lined, it being necessary to nail three of +them together to form runners of the required height. A wolf was shot by +Ouligbuck during the night within 10 yards of the door of the house, and +six or eight more were seen at no great distance off in the morning. + +23rd. When taking my usual exercise, I came upon a white owl feasting on +a hare which it had killed after a severe struggle, to judge by the +marks on the snow. Half of it was already eaten. Another wolf was shot +on the 25th at a set gun, but there was nothing of him to be found in +the morning except a little hair and blood, all the rest having been +eaten or carried off by his companions. Some more deer tracks were seen +going northward. On the 26th the height of Beacon Hill was found to be +238 feet above the level of the sea at half-flood. + +Next day Nibitabo saw thirty deer and ten partridges, but only shot two +of the latter. The former were in the middle of a large plain, and took +good care to keep out of gun-shot, much to the annoyance of our +deer-hunter, who is one of the keenest sportsmen I have ever met with. + +There were two wolves wounded by Ouligbuck's gun last night, one of +which he caught before breakfast. I went with him after the other in the +forenoon, and got sight of him about three miles from the house. +Although his shoulder was fractured, he gave us a long race before we +ran him down, but at last we saw that he had begun to eat snow, a sure +sign that he was getting fagged. When I came up with him, so tired was +he that I was obliged to drive him on with the butt of my gun in order +to get him nearer home before knocking him on the head. At last we were +unable to make him move on by any means we could employ. Ferocity and +cowardice, often if not always, go together. How different was the +behaviour of this savage brute from that of the usually timid deer under +similar circumstances. The wolf crouched down and would not even look at +us, pull him about and use him as we might; whereas I never saw a deer +that did not attempt to defend itself when brought to bay, however +severely wounded it might be. + +On the 1st March one of our sledges that had been finished was tried, +and found to answer well. + +The deer were now steadily migrating northward, some being seen every +day, but there were none killed until the 11th, when one was shot by +Nibitabo; it proved to be a doe with young, the foetus being about the +size of a rabbit. The sun had so much power that my blankets by being +exposed to the air got completely dried, being the first time that they +had been free from ice for three months. + +Shortly after divine service on the 14th, Akkeeoulik, who had gone some +days before to his father-in-law's to endeavour to reclaim his better +half, returned with his lost treasure, one of the most lazy and dirty of +the whole party, and a most arrant thief to boot. Two deer were shot on +the 15th, and two more on the 18th. Deer-hunting had become very +different from what it was in the autumn. + +The greater part of the hollows which favoured our approach in the +latter season were now filled up with snow, which, from wasting away +underneath, made so much noise under foot that in calm weather it was +almost impossible to get within shot. The deer were besides continually +moving about in the most zig-zag directions, and were so much startled +at the report of a gun that it was evident they had been a good deal +hunted during the winter. + +On the 20th Nibitabo was affected with inflammation of the eyes, which +was relieved by dropping laudanum into them. On the 26th we made a new +water hole on the lake, when the ice was found to be 6 feet 10 inches +thick. I measured the dimensions of an Esquimaux canoe, and found them +as follows:--length 21 feet, breadth amidships 19 inches, and depth +where the person sits 9½ inches. The timbers are one-half or +five-eighths of an inch square, and placed three inches apart near the +centre of the canoe, but gradually increased to five inches at each end. +The cross-bars are three-quarters of an inch thick and a foot from each +other; these were morticed into gunwales 2½ inches broad by half-an-inch +thick, the whole being covered with seal skin in the usual manner. +Altogether it was much more neatly finished and lighter than any I had +seen in Hudson's Straits; but the natives here have not attained the +same dexterity in managing them, as they cannot turn their canoes +without assistance after being capsized. + +On the 31st Ouligbuck, who had been absent all night, came home at 1 +P.M. very faint from the effects of a severe wound he had received on +the arm by falling on a large dagger which he usually carried. On +cutting off his clothes I found that the dagger had passed completely +through the right arm a couple of inches above the elbow joint. + +In the evening Shimakuk, who is a conjuror, came in, and as Ouligbuck +wished to try the effect of his charms on the injured part, I of course +had no objections. The whole process consisted in putting some questions +(the purport of which I could not learn) to the patient in a very loud +voice, then muttering something in a very low tone, and stopping +occasionally to give two or three puffs of the breath on the wounded +arm. During these proceedings the men could with difficulty keep their +gravity; nor could I blame them, for the scene was irresistibly +ludicrous. + +I observed that one of the conjuror's dogs was lame, or rather very weak +in the legs, and on asking him the cause, he said that it arose from +having eaten trout livers when young. + +The latter part of the month of March was spent, by the majority of the +party, in making preparations for our journey, over the ice and snow, to +the northward, it having been my intention to set out on the 1st April; +but the accident to Ouligbuck prevented this, as I did not wish to leave +him until I saw that his wound was in a fair way of healing. Ivitchuk, +our intended companion, had not yet made his appearance. + +On the 3rd April the thermometer rose above zero, for the first time +since the 12th December. + +As the aurora was seldom noticed after this date, I may here make a few +remarks on this subject. It was often visible during the winter, and +usually made its appearance first to the southward in the form of a +faint yellow or straw-coloured arch, which gradually rose up towards the +zenith. During our stay at Fort Hope I never witnessed a finer display +of this strange phenomenon than I had done at York Factory, nor did it +on any occasion affect the horizontal needle as I had seen it do during +the previous winter there. + +The Esquimaux, like the Indians, assert that the aurora produces a +distinctly audible sound, and the generality of Orkneymen and Zetlanders +maintain the same opinion, although for my own part I cannot say that I +ever heard any sound from it. A fine display, particularly if the +movements are rapid, is very often succeeded by stormy or snowy weather, +but I have never been able to trace any coincidence between the +direction of its motions, and that of the wind. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + Set out for the north--Equipment of the + party--Snow-blindness--Musk-ox--Mode of killing it--Reach the + coast near Point Hargrave--Ice rough along shore--Pass Cape Lady + Pelly--Unfavourable weather--Slow progress--Put on short + allowance--River Ki-ting-nu-yak--Pemmican placed _en + cache_--Cape Weynton--Colvile Bay--High hill--Dogs giving + way--Work increased--Snow-house-building--Point Beaufort--Point + Siveright--Keith Bay--Cape Barclay--Another _cache_--Leave the + coast and proceed across the land--River A-ma-took--Dogs knocked + up--Lake Ballenden--Harrison islands--Party left to procure + provisions--Proceed with two of the men--Cape Berens--Relative + effects of an eastern and western aspect--Halkett Inlet--Reach + Lord Mayor's Bay--Take formal possession of the + country--Commence our return to winter quarters--Friendly + interview with the natives--Obtain supplies of provisions from + them--View of Pelly Bay--Trace the shore to the eastward--Travel + by night--Explore the coast of Simpson's Peninsula--Arrive at + Fort Hope--Occurrences during the absence of the exploring + party--Character of the Esquimaux Ivitchuk. + +Everything having been for some days in readiness for our contemplated +journey, I only awaited the arrival of our Esquimaux ally Ivitchuk. He +made his appearance on the 4th April in company with his wife, his +father and brother, and their wives. I could have well dispensed with +the presence of the party, excepting the man who was to go with us, as +there were many things to be attended to. It is strange that throughout +the winter, with one or two exceptions, the visits of these people have +happened on Sundays. Our intended travelling companion having received a +coat from one, inexpressibles from another, leggings from a third, &c., +was soon completely dressed "ą la voyageur," not certainly to the +improvement of the outer man, but much to his own satisfaction. +Ouligbuck's arm being now in a fair way of recovery, there was no cause +of detention. + +The party, consisting, besides myself, of George Flett, John Corrigal, +William Adamson, Ouligbuck's son, and Ivitchuk, started early on the +morning of the 5th. We were accompanied by two sledges, each drawn by +four dogs, on which our luggage and provisions were stowed. Our stores +consisted of three bags of pemmican, seventy reindeer tongues, one +half-hundred weight of flour, some tea, chocolate, and sugar, and a +little alcohol and oil for fuel. At first the weather was far from +favourable for travelling, as there was a gale of wind with snow, but +about 8 A.M. the sky cleared up, and the day became as fine as could +have been wished. The sun shone forth with great brightness, surrounded +by a halo of the most brilliant colours, with four parhelia that +rivalled the sun himself. Our route was the same as that followed in +the boat last autumn; but although the snow was hard-packed and not +rough, our sledges were too heavy to allow us to travel quickly. +Numerous bands of deer crossed our path, and enlivened the scene at the +same time that they kept up the spirit of our dogs. Our latitude at +noon, by an observation of the sun, was 66° 42' N., variation of the +compass 64° W. Between 7 and 8 P.M., both dogs and men being somewhat +fatigued with their day's work, we stopped on the east side of Christie +Lake to build our snow hut, which our Esquimaux friend was so long in +completing on account of the bad state of the snow for building, that it +was 11 o'clock before we got into our blankets. The situation of our +encampment was in latitude 66° 49' 30" N., longitude 87° 20' W. + +6th.--We passed a comfortable night, and it was 6 o'clock in the morning +before we were again on the march; three hours more brought us to the +northern extremity of the lake, where we had left a bag of flour "en +cache" the previous autumn. Two men who had accompanied us, for the +purpose of taking the flour back to our winter quarters, returned from +this place. + +A little before noon we arrived at the snow hut of the two Esquimaux, +Shimakuk and Kei-ik-too-oo, who, with their families, had been staying +some time here angling trout. I had agreed with those people that they +should build a large snow house for our accommodation, having expected +to reach them at the end of our first day's journey. In this we were +disappointed; but, as the contracting party had prepared a fine roomy +dwelling for us, they received the stipulated price--a clasp knife. At +noon, when still on the lake, the latitude 66° 58' 16" N. was observed. + +Kei-ik-too-oo having come with us for a short distance, I proposed that +he should get his sledge and dogs and accompany us for two days; this, +for a dagger as a consideration, he gladly agreed to do, and immediately +went off at a great rate to bring up his team. Being quite light he soon +overtook us, and was not long in getting a heavy load on. I soon saw the +advantage of his iced runners over the iron ones, and determined to have +ours done in the same way on the first opportunity; on this account we +stopped sooner than we would otherwise have done, having travelled +sixteen geographical miles. We found a number of old Esquimaux houses, +one of which we prepared for our use by clearing out the snow that had +drifted into it. Whilst the two Esquimaux were icing the sledges, the +remainder of the men were cooking and preparing our bed; the latter +being a very simple process, merely requiring the snow to be well +smoothed, and one or two hairy deer-skins laid over it to prevent the +heat of the body from thawing the snow. The weather was fair all day, +and except in the morning when the thermometer was -16°, it was rather +warm for walking. After we got into our lodgings a strong breeze sprung +up with thick drift. Some of the party were slightly affected with +snow-blindness. + +7th.--The weather was gloomy and dark this morning, with the thermometer +at +5° when we started at half-past 3. Our sledges ran much easier since +they had received a coating of ice on their runners, although they were +not yet equal to Kei-ik-too-oo's. We followed the same route as that +taken by the boat last autumn until 9 o'clock, when being two miles from +the sea we struck across land towards Point Hargrave; at noon we were in +latitude 67° 16' 51" N., variation of the compass 74° 30' W. We found +the snow much softer than it was on the lakes and river, and our +progress was consequently much slower than in the first part of the day. + +At 2 P.M. we arrived at a small lake, about four miles from Point +Hargrave. As this was the only fresh-water lake we were likely to meet +with for some time, I determined to stop for the purpose of renewing the +icing on the sledges, which had been a good deal broken by the +irregularities of the road. Notwithstanding that we had gone only +eighteen miles our dogs were very tired, and I began to fear that they +would not hold out so well as was expected. Our Esquimaux friend was to +leave us the next day, and as his sledge was light he expected to reach +his house the same day. This is a favourite resort of the musk-ox as +soon as the snow disappears. The mode of killing these animals is the +same as that described by Sir J. C. Ross as practised in Boothia Felix +by the Esquimaux: being brought to bay with dogs, they are either shot +with arrows or speared. + +When we resumed our journey at 5 o'clock next morning, there was a +strong breeze right ahead with thick drift, the temperature being +6°. A +walk of three miles brought us to the coast about a mile from Point +Hargrave. There was a great deal of rough ice along the shore, which +gave both men and dogs much hard work to drag the sledges over. It had +now begun to snow, and the drift was so thick that we could not follow +the smoothest route; we consequently advanced but slowly, taking four +hours to gain five and a half miles, which brought us to Cape Lady +Pelly. + +Since leaving Fort Hope, I had measured every foot of the ground we had +passed over with a line, but now the increased difficulty of the route +made it requisite that all hands should be employed in dragging the +sledges. One of our best dogs became quite useless, and although +unharnessed would not walk, so that rather than lose the poor animal, we +dragged him on the snow several miles before reaching our intended +encampment. + +After passing Cape Lady Pelly the coast turns rather more to the +westward. The weather continued very unfavourable all day, there being +much snow-drift; we however advanced seven miles farther, and at 4 P.M. +built our night's lodgings on the ice, a few hundred yards from the +shore. In an hour and a half we were comfortably housed. Finding that +our day's journeys were much shorter than I had anticipated, our +allowance of food for supper was somewhat reduced. The thermometer in +the evening stood at +11°. Our snow hut was situated in latitude 67° 35' +N., longitude 87° 51' W. both by account. + +After a sound night's rest we resumed our journey at 5 in the morning of +the 9th. There was some snow falling, but the wind had decreased, and +the temperature of the air was +2°. Our course was N.W. by W. for three +miles, when we came to a low point formed of shingle and mud, with some +rocky rising grounds a few miles inland. This point received the name of +Swanston, after a friend. A short time before noon the sky cleared, and +very satisfactory observations for latitude and variation of the compass +were obtained, the former being 67° 40' 53" N., the latter 71° 30' W. +The dog that had been unharnessed the day before had become still +weaker, and as I did not wish to leave him to the mercy of the wolves, +he was shot. We offered some of his flesh to the other dogs, but there +was only one of them that would eat it. + +Having walked fourteen miles, we arrived at a small river 70 yards wide, +and, although it was only half-past three, we commenced building our +snow house. We here found a number of stones which allowed us to place +"en cache" half a bag of pemmican, some flour, shoes, &c., for our +homeward journey. The river, which is called Ki-ting-nu-yak, was frozen +to the bottom, but in summer it is a favourable fishing station, both +salmon and a small species of the white fish being found. I did not see +any of the latter, but from the description given by the Esquimaux I +have no doubt that they frequent this part of the coast. + +The evening was beautifully clear, and the thermometer fell to -16°. + +10th.--There was a thick haze this morning with light variable airs of +wind; temperature 6° below zero. By striking straight out from land for +a mile or two, we got upon somewhat smoother ice, and consequently made +more progress. We passed a number of hills, not of any great elevation +however, and at noon we were opposite one named Wiachat, fully 500 feet +high, and some miles from the coast. Here the latitude 67° 53' 24" was +observed, and the coast turned off to the westward, forming a point +which was named Cape Weynton. We now commenced crossing a bay 5 or 6 +miles deep, and apparently 12 wide, which received the name of Colvile, +in honour of the Deputy Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company. A mouse or +lemming crossed our path, and the dogs, although they appeared to be +scarcely able to put one foot before another, set off at full speed in +chase, and before any one could interfere to save it, the poor little +animal was quivering in the jaws of the foremost. + +Being unable to reach the north side of Colvile Bay, at 4 P.M. we took +up our quarters on the ice in our usual snug lodgings, in latitude 68° +2' N., longitude 88° 21' W. A high hill bearing west of us, and distant +eight miles, called Oo-me-we-yak by the natives, was named after the +late John George M'Tavish, Esq., Chief Factor. Several of our dogs had +become very weak--so much so that during the latter part of the day's +journey they did little or nothing, thus giving us all much additional +work. They also required much more food to keep them in good condition, +than the dogs generally used in the fur countries. We only walked +sixteen miles this day; and I may here remark that all the distances +mentioned in this journal are given in geographical miles. + +Our usual mode of preparing lodgings for the night was as follows:--As +soon as we had selected a spot for our snow house, our Esquimaux, +assisted by one or more of the men, commenced cutting out blocks of +snow. When a sufficient number of these had been raised, the builder +commenced his work, his assistants supplying him with the material. A +good roomy dwelling was thus raised in an hour, if the snow was in a +good state for building. Whilst our principal mason was thus occupied, +another of the party was busy erecting a kitchen, which, although our +cooking was none of the most delicate or extensive, was still a +necessary addition to our establishment, had it been only to thaw snow. +As soon as the snow hut was completed, our sledges were unloaded, and +every thing eatable (including parchment skin and moose skin shoes, +which had now become favourite articles with the dogs) taken inside. Our +bed was next made, and by the time the snow was thawed or the water +boiled, as the case might be, we were all ready for supper. When we used +alcohol for fuel (as we usually did in stormy weather) no kitchen was +required. + +On the following morning we started about the usual hour, and directing +our course nearly north, a walk of five miles brought us to the opposite +side of Colvile Bay, which terminated in a long point covered with +boulders of granite and debris of limestone, and having a number of +stone marks set up on it. To this point the name of Beaufort was given, +in honour of the gallant officer who, with so much advantage to his +country and to nautical science, presides over the hydrographical +department of the Admiralty. + +Five miles farther we reached another low point called by the Esquimaux +E-to-uke, but renamed by me Point Siveright. The coast, now turning +slightly to the westward of north, continued in nearly a straight line +during the rest of this day's march. + +We were now tracing the shores of a considerable bay, as the land after +taking a sudden bend to the eastward followed a south-east direction as +far as visible. At 4 P.M. we stopped and built our snow hut; the day +had been fine throughout, and the temperature in the evening was 16° +below zero. The shores of the bay are very low, with the exception of a +high bluff point bearing S.E. by E. 6½ miles (by trigonometrical +measurement). The point was named Cape Barclay, in honour of the +Secretary of the Hudson's Bay Company, and the bay was called after my +much respected friend, George Keith, Esq., Chief-Factor. + +Since passing Colvile Bay the coast had become much lower and more +level, giving every indication of a limestone country. Being anxious to +save our fuel as much as possible, we filled two small kettles and a +bladder with snow and took them to bed with us, for the purpose of +procuring water to drink--a plan which was frequently adopted +afterwards. Our dogs had now become most ravenous; although they +received what was considered a fair allowance of provisions, everything +that came in their way, such as shoes, leather mitts, and even a worsted +belt, was eaten, much to the annoyance of the owners and to the +merriment of the rest of the party. We enjoyed a cold supper of pemmican +and water;--as we could afford a hot meal only once a day, we preferred +taking it in the morning. + +12th.--Being informed by our Esquimaux companion that, by crossing over +land in a north-west direction to a large bay which he had formerly +visited, we should shorten our distance considerably, I determined on +adopting the plan proposed. Our kettles of snow were found rather cool +companions, but there was a little water formed. The bladder having been +either leaky, or not properly tied, gave me and my next neighbour a +partial cold bath. The morning was delightful, being clear and calm, +with a temperature of -22°. We started at half-past 5, and after having +walked a short distance came to some loose pieces of granite and +limestone, which afforded an opportunity, not to be lost, for making a +deposit of provisions for our return journey. + +After tracing the shores of the bay for three miles and a half further +north to latitude 68° 18' N., longitude by account 88° 26' W., we left +the coast and proceeded over land in a north-north-west direction. +Walking became more difficult, and the snow was too soft to support the +sledges, the ice on the runners of which was now entirely worn off. A +mile's walk brought us to a small river with high mud banks, and frozen +to the bottom: it is named A-ma-took by the natives, and takes its rise +from a lake of the same name about a day's journey west of us. We next +passed between two elevations covered with limestone. I ascended that on +the right-hand or to the east of us, it being the highest and having two +columns of limestone, the one fourteen, the other nine feet high, at its +western extremity. There were many places here denuded of snow, showing +that the sun had already acquired great power. At noon we were in +latitude 68° 22' 19'' N., variation of the compass 79° 35' W. An hour +after, we reached a small lake, where we halted on account of our dogs +being quite knocked up, although we had only advanced twelve miles; I +therefore ordered a hut to be built that we might afford the dogs time +to recruit, and also have the sledge-runners put in order. We found the +ice on the lake 4 feet 8 inches thick, but we were disappointed to find +that there were no fish to be caught. We here enjoyed water ad libitum, +a luxury that had been rather sparingly dealt out for the last few days. +Ivitchuk drank as much as would have satisfied an ox. The thermometer in +the evening was 9° below zero. A few tracks of foxes were here seen, but +no signs of deer or musk-oxen. This part of the country appeared +miserably barren in every respect. + +On the morning of the 13th we commenced our march at 2.30 A.M.; the +weather was fine with light airs from the north-west: thermometer -15°. +At 5 o'clock we passed a small lake about a mile and a half long, and an +hour afterwards reached another of considerable size. Tung-a-lik, as the +lake is called by the Esquimaux, is 7 miles long due north and south, +and varying in breadth from a mile to a mile and a half. Near its centre +was a curious-looking island, about 7 feet high and 200 yards in extent, +covered with granite boulders and limestone. Its form is as nearly as +possible that of a semicircle, the concavity being towards the south. +To this lake I gave the name of Ballenden, after a much valued friend. +When near the north end of Ballenden Lake (over which we had travelled +rapidly, the snow being both hard and smooth), we turned more to the +west. At noon we arrived at a lake which was to be our resting place for +the night, as, although small, it was said to contain both trout and +salmon; but, after cutting through five feet of ice, we did not succeed +in catching any, although we tempted them with a bait from a buffalo +hide. In the afternoon the weather became very gloomy; a strong breeze +sprang up accompanied by a thick haze, and the thermometer rose to -11°. +By meridian observation our latitude was 68° 36' 58" N., variation of +the compass 78° W., longitude by account 88° 49" W. + +14th.--This morning was so stormy, with thick drift and snow, that we +could not start so early as usual; it however became more moderate at 5 +o'clock, and we were able to continue our route, although the guide +seemed much puzzled to keep in the proper direction, there being nothing +to serve as marks in this wilderness of snow. + +In the afternoon the weather again became worse, and the temperature +fell to -12°, which with a strong head wind made it sufficiently cold. I +felt it probably more than the others, as I had to stop often to take +bearings, and in consequence was once or twice nearly losing the party +altogether. We trudged on manfully until 5 P.M., when it cleared up for +two or three minutes, and we obtained a distant glimpse of some high +islands in the bay for which we were bound, called Ak-koo-lee-gu-wiak by +the natives. At half-past 5 we commenced building our snow house. This +was far from pleasant work, as the wind was piercingly cold, and the +fine particles of snow drift penetrated our clothes everywhere; we, +however, enjoyed ourselves the more when we got under shelter and took +our supper of the staple commodities, pemmican and water. Latitude 68° +51' N., longitude 89° 16' W. + +15th.--It blew a complete storm all night, but we were as snug and +comfortable, in our snow hive, as if we had been lodged in the best +house in England. At 5.30 the wind moderated to a gale, but the drift +was still so thick that it was impossible to see any distance before us, +particularly when looking to windward, and that unfortunately was the +direction in which we had to go. The temperature was 21° below zero,--a +temperature which, as all Arctic travellers know, feels much colder, +when there is a breeze of wind, than one of -60° or -70° when the +weather is calm. But there was the prospect of both food and fuel before +us, for seals were said to abound in the bay and heather on the islands +of Akkooleeguwiak. Such temptations were not to be resisted; so we +muffled ourselves well up and set out. It was one of the worst days I +had ever travelled in, and I could not take the bearings of our route +more than once or twice. + +To make matters worse, one of our dogs, a fine lively little creature, +that was a great favourite with us all, became unable to walk +unharnessed, and the men having enough to do with the sledges, I +dragged, carried, and coaxed it on for a few miles; but finding that +some parts of my face were freezing, and that my companions were so far +ahead as to be out of sight, I was reluctantly compelled to leave the +poor animal to its fate. + +After a most devious course of nearly twelve miles, we came to the +shores of the bay. The banks were of mud and shingle, about sixty or +seventy feet high, and so steep that it was some time before we could +find a place by which to get down to the ice. We directed our steps +among much rough ice towards the highest of the group of islands named +Coga-ur-ga-wiak, apparently six miles distant, and encamped near its +western end in a little well-sheltered bay. All the party, even the +Esquimaux, had got severely frost-bitten in the face, but as it was not +much more than skin deep, this gave us little concern. When our house +was nearly built, a search was commenced among the snow for heather, and +we were so fortunate as to procure enough in an hour and a-half to cook +us some pemmican and flour, in the form of a kind of soup or pottage. + +We were all very glad to get into our blankets as soon as possible. The +weather became somewhat finer in the evening, but it drifted as much as +ever. The thermometer was -16°. Our latitude was 68° 53' 44" N., +longitude 89° 55' 30" west. Notwithstanding that I carried my watch next +to my skin the cold stopped it, and I could not tell exactly the time of +our arrival at the island, but I believed it was near 2 P.M. + +On the 16th, a gale of wind from N.W. with thick drift, and the +thermometer at -20°, would have prevented our travelling had I intended +it; but as I purposed leaving some of the men and all the dogs here to +recruit, I wished to find out the Esquimaux (who we knew were in the +neighbourhood, as the recent foot tracks of two had been seen on the +shore the day before), and obtain from them some seals' flesh and +blubber for our use. Flett, Ivitchuk, and the interpreter were sent on +this mission, but they returned in the evening unsuccessful. The drift +was so thick in the bay that they could not see to any distance. In the +meantime Corrigal and Adamson had been collecting fuel, and I being +under the lee of the island obtained observations for latitude and +variation of the compass, the former being 68° 53' 44" north as above, +the latter 87° 40' west. + +I prepared for an early start the next morning in company with Flett and +Corrigal, for the purpose, if possible, of reaching Sir John Ross's most +southerly discoveries, which could not now be distant more than two +days' journey. + +The party that were to be left behind had orders to kill seals, (for +which purpose Ivitchuk was furnished with a spear,) to trade provisions +from the Esquimaux if they saw any, and, above all, to use as little of +our present stock as possible. All that we could afford to take with us +was four days' scanty allowance. I had for the last week carried my +instruments, books, &c., in all about thirty-five pounds weight; and I +now intended to do the same. + +The morning of the 17th was stormy and cold (-22°), and we did not start +until near 6 o'clock; when we had got well clear of the S.W. end of the +island, we found the ice smooth, and the snow on it hard-packed. As the +men had but a light load we travelled fast, our course being nearly N.W. +towards the farthest visible land in that direction. A brisk walk of +seventeen miles brought us, an hour before noon, to the shore near a +high point formed of dark gray granite, which I named Cape Berens, after +one of the Directors of the Company. It is situated in latitude 69° 4' +12" N. by observation, and longitude 90° 35' 48" W. by account. The +shore, which was steep and rocky, ran nearly in a straight line, and in +the same direction that we had been already travelling. At 3 P.M. we +came to two narrow points in a small bay, between which we built our +snow-house. To these points I gave the name of "the Twins." Their +latitude is 69° 13' 14" N., longitude 90° 55' 30" W. + +There being one or two hills at a short distance from us, I ascended +one of them to look for fuel, and to gain a view of our future route. I +obtained neither of these objects, but fell in with some lead ore, +specimens of which were brought away. + +On arriving at the snow-hut I found it nearly completed, but so small +that there was little prospect of a comfortable night's rest. Having but +a very small quantity of alcohol for fuel, our supper was a cold one. +Thermometer in the evening 19° below zero. Flett (one of Dease and +Simpson's best men) showed symptoms of fatigue, at which I was much +surprised, as, from what I had heard of him, I fancied he would have +tired out any of the party. + +18th.--My anticipations of passing an uncomfortable night were fully +realized. It might be thought that, as our whole bedding consisted of +one blanket, and a hairy deer-skin to put between us and the snow, there +was reason enough for my not sleeping soundly; but this was not the +case, as I often passed nights both before and after this with as little +covering, but never found myself cold. We started at 3 A.M. The morning +was fine but hazy, with a light air of wind from N.W. Thermometer -3°. +The walking was still fair; and I may here remark, that wherever the +land had an eastern exposure the ice was smooth, there being little or +none of the former year forced up along the shore; whenever the coast +was exposed to the west, the contrary was the case. + +Our course was nearly that of the previous day, but a little more to +the westward. After walking twelve miles we came to what proved to be +the head of a deep inlet, the western shore of which we had been +tracing, and which I named after John Halkett, Esq., one of the +Directors of the Hudson's Bay Company, whose son (Lieut. P. A. Halkett, +R.N.,) is the ingenious inventor of the portable air-boat, which ought +to be the travelling companion of every explorer. Two reindeer were seen +here. + +As there could be no doubt that, if my longitude was correct, I must now +be near the Lord Mayor's Bay of Sir John Ross, I decided on striking +across land, as nearly north as possible, instead of following the +coast. The men having had a short time to rest, we commenced a tiresome +march over land, the snow being in some places both deep and soft. We +crossed three small lakes, and at noon, when near the middle of another +about four miles long, an excellent meridian observation of the sun gave +latitude 69° 26' 1" N. When we had walked three miles more we came to +another small lake; and here, as there was yet no appearance of the sea, +I ordered my men to prepare our lodgings, whilst I went on alone to +endeavour to discover the coast. + +A walk of twenty minutes brought me to an inlet not more than a quarter +of a mile wide. This I traced to the westward for upwards of a league, +when my course was again obstructed by land. There were some high rocks +near at hand which I ascended, and from the summit I thought I could +distinguish rough ice in the desired direction. With renewed hopes I +slid down a declivity, plunging among snow, scrambling over rocks, and +through rough ice until I gained more level ground. I then directed my +steps to some rising ground which I found to be close to the seashore. +From the spot on which I now stood, as far as the eye could reach to the +north-westward, lay a large extent of ice-covered sea, studded with +innumerable islands. Lord Mayor's Bay was before me, and the islands +were those named by Sir John Ross the Sons of the Clergy of the Church +of Scotland. + +The isthmus which connects the land to the north with the continent is +only one mile broad, and even in this short space there are three small +ponds. From the great number of stone marks set up (the only ones that I +saw on this part of the coast), I am led to infer that this is a +deer-pass in the autumn, and consequently a favourite resort of the +natives. Its latitude is 69° 31' N., longitude by account 91° 29' 30" W. +This latter differs only a mile or two from that of the same place as +laid down by Sir James C. Ross, with whose name I distinguished the +isthmus, calling the land to the northward Sir John Ross's Peninsula. +After going down to the ice in Hardy Bay, and offering with a humble and +grateful heart thanks to Him who had thus brought our journey so far to +a successful termination, I began to retrace my steps towards my +companions. + +At a late hour I reached our snow hut, an excellent roomy one, in which +we could lie in any position; no trifling comfort after a walk of more +than forty miles over a rough road. + +It was 7 o'clock the following morning before we started. The weather +was pleasant, and the thermometer 12° below zero. Having taken +possession of our discoveries with the usual formalities, we traced the +inlet eastward, the shores of which were steep and rugged, in some +places precipitous. When we had walked four miles the land on our left +turned up to the northward, leaving an opening in that direction more +than two miles wide, bounded on the south-east by one or more islands. +This inlet I named after that celebrated navigator and discoverer Sir +John Franklin, whose protracted absence in the Arctic Sea is at present +exciting so much interest and anxiety throughout England. The most +distant visible point was called Cape Thomas after a relative. The land +on our right still trended to the east for two miles, and then turned to +the south. After walking seven miles in this last direction, and passing +two small bays and as many points, we stopped for the night. Here we +were fairly puzzled about the proper route, there being so many inlets +and small bays that it was impossible to tell which was the one we ought +to follow. The day had become very warm, the thermometer rising as high +as +26° in the sun, and as we were now travelling south, we found the +reflection from the snow much more painful to the eyes than when +proceeding north. The latitude of our snow house was 69° 22' N., +longitude 91° 3' W., both by account. The thermometer -19° in the +evening; cold water and pemmican for supper, and kettles of snow for +bedfellows. + +The morning of the 20th was cold, but calm; thermometer -24°. We +commenced our day's march at 2h. 30m. A.M., and in twenty minutes +arrived at the head of the inlet where I hoped to find a passage. Seeing +that it would be madness to trace all the indentations of this most +irregular coast, (for had a couple of days' stormy weather ensued we +should all have run the risk of starving,) I struck over land towards +our snow hut of the 17th. + +This was the most fatiguing and at the same time the most ludicrous +march we had experienced. As our route lay across several ranges of +hills, we had no sooner climbed up one side than we had to slide down +the other. To descend was not always an easy matter, as there were often +large stones in the way, past which we required to steer with great +care, or if a collision was unavoidable, to manage so as not to injure +ourselves. Corrigal appeared to be an old hand at this sort of work, and +I had had some practice, but poor Flett, who had begun to suffer much +from inflammation of the eyes, got many queer falls, and was once or +twice placed in such situations with his head down hill, his heels up, +and the strap of his bundle round his neck, that it would have been +impossible for him to get up by his own unaided exertions. + +After crossing a number of small lakes, we arrived at the steep shores +of Halkett Inlet about 11 o'clock, having been eight hours in walking as +many miles. We crossed the inlet, and as it had now begun to blow a +fresh breeze we stopped at a small bay, well sheltered, to take some +rest, and obtain a meridian observation of the sun. The latitude was 69° +16' 44" N., variation of the compass 76° 45' W. We were so fortunate as +to find here some heather by scraping away the snow, and we enjoyed the +luxury of a cup of chocolate, which refreshed us very much. + +We now resumed our march, and the walking being good and the day fine we +made rapid progress, although somewhat detained by the lameness and +blindness of Flett, who stumbled at every inequality of the ground, and +received some severe falls. After advancing two miles we came opposite +to a clear opening to the north-eastward, in which nothing but rough ice +could be seen. This was evidently the termination of the continent in +this direction. At 4 P.M. we arrived at our snow hut in the small bay +between the Twins. It was not my intention to remain here all night, but +the lameness of our companion prevented us from continuing our journey. +Whilst I went to search for fuel, Corrigal enlarged our snow house. I +found a little fuel, with which we contrived to thaw as much snow as +gave each of us nearly half-a-pint of water. The remainder of our +provisions, amounting to a few ounces of pemmican each, was fairly +divided, and having eaten part of this we betook ourselves to rest. + +21st.--Having passed a far from pleasant night, and used the last of our +alcohol to procure some water as a diluent for our not very plentiful +breakfast, we started at a little before 2 A.M. There was a strong +breeze from N.W. with thick drift occasionally, and a temperature of +-20°, but the wind being on our backs it was rather an advantage than +otherwise. We directed our course straight for the island on which we +had left the rest of the party, and which could be seen at intervals +when the snow drift cleared away. + +Flett being still very lame, I desired Corrigal to remain in company +with him, whilst I went on alone to order some provisions to be prepared +by the time they came to the snow house. The ice being smooth, and the +snow on its surface hard, I made rapid progress until within about five +miles of our temporary home. Here I observed some strange looking +figures on the ice, which the thickness of the weather prevented me from +seeing distinctly. On a nearer approach I found that what had puzzled me +was a number of Esquimaux spears, lances, &c. stuck on a heap of snow; +and immediately afterwards four Esquimaux came from behind a mound of +ice, holding up their hands to show that they were unarmed. The natives +of this part of the coast bear a very bad character, and are much feared +by their countrymen of Repulse Bay. I therefore was not quite sure what +sort of reception I might meet with, as my men were not in sight and I +was quite unarmed. But to anticipate evil is often the most likely way +to cause it, so I went directly up, and saluted them with their usual +term for peace (teyma), shaking hands with all after the fashion of our +own country. They all shouted out Manig Tomig, which are the words +mentioned by Sir John Ross as the form of salutation employed by the +natives of Boothia Felix. A very animated conversation soon ensued, in +which I bore but a very small share; but as I appeared to be a good +listener, and put in a negative or affirmative every now and then when +there appeared to be a necessity for saying something, we got on very +well together. + +We were soon joined by an old woman who took upon herself the office of +mistress of the ceremonies, and commenced with great volubility to give +me the names of the men, which were as follows:--A-li-ne-a-yuk, Kag-vik, +Tag-na-koo and Nu-li-a-yuk; the first being old, the second middle aged, +and the two last young men of about twenty-five. They were all married, +and were much more forward in their manners and dirty in their persons +and dress, than our friends of Repulse Bay. They were very anxious for +me to enter their huts, but this I thought it prudent to decline, and +after much persuasion and promises of knives, needles, beads, &c. I +prevailed on them to follow me to our snow house. + +A little more than an hour brought me to our encampment, where I found +Adamson quite well but all alone, Ivitchuk and the boy being out +looking for seals. They had not met with any Esquimaux, and no animals +of any kind had been killed, Ivitchuk standing so much in awe of his +countrymen that he was afraid to stay out seal-hunting during the night, +which is the only time that these animals are to be caught at that +season of the year. I found that much more of our stock of provisions +had been used than there was any occasion for--in fact, the appearance +of the men shewed that they had been on full allowance. + +About an hour after my arrival, Corrigal and Flett made their +appearance, accompanied by the four Esquimaux that I had seen and a boy. +A few trifling presents were made them, and they promised to return on +the following day with oil, blubber, &c. to barter with us. It blew a +gale all the evening, with the thermometer 21° below zero. + +The morning of the 22d was fine with a temperature of -20°, but during +the day it blew hard with drift. Our party kept in bed rather longer +than usual, and we were visited by the Esquimaux before we had got up. +They brought a quantity of seal's flesh, blood, and blubber, which I was +about to purchase from them when the thermometer was reported as +missing. I immediately shut the box containing the valuables, and +intimated that they should receive nothing unless the thermometer was +given up. After about ten minutes' delay one of the women brought in the +lost article, saying, that the dogs had pulled it down and carried it +off,--a very probable story certainly; but having obtained what I wanted +I cared little who might be the thief. + +A brisk traffic was soon commenced for oil, seals, blubber, flesh and +blood, for which knives, files, beads, needles, &c. were given. We also +obtained half a dozen dried salmon and a small piece of dried musk-ox +flesh, both very old and mouldy. These Esquimaux were found to be much +more difficult to deal with than our friends of Repulse Bay, being very +forward and much addicted to stealing. They had undoubtedly had +communication with the natives of Boothia Felix, as there were many of +their weapons, and parts of their sledges formed of oak. I also observed +some small pieces of mahogany among them. One of the strangers proved to +be an uncle of Ivitchuk. + +It continued to blow hard in the evening with a temperature of -15°. +Preparations were made for examining the shores of the bay in which, by +Esquimaux report, we now were. + +23d.--This was another stormy and cold day until the afternoon, when it +became fair. We were again visited by our neighbours, who brought us a +further and very acceptable supply of seals' flesh and blood, and also +two fine dogs to complete our teams, one or two of those we had being +still very weak. + +When about to make a tour round the bay, I learnt from one of the +natives that a complete view of its shores could be obtained from the +summit of the island on which we were. I found also that a chart which +he made of the bay agreed very closely with one drawn by the natives of +Repulse Bay, who had visited the place. The evening being beautifully +clear, I took with me the Esquimaux, one of the men, and the interpreter +to the highest point of the island, from which I obtained a distinct +view of the whole bay, except a small portion immediately under the sun. +The shores were high and regular in their outline, and being, in most +places, to a certain extent denuded of snow, they were much more clearly +seen than could have been expected. The bay appeared to extend 16 or 18 +miles slightly to the east of south, and was about 11 miles wide near +its head. Its surface was studded with a number of dark-coloured rocky +islands. The highest of these was the one on which we were staying, and +was found by measurement to be 730 feet above the level of the sea. It +was called Helen Island, whilst the group to which it belonged was named +after Benjamin Harrison, Esq. one of the Directors of the Hudson's Bay +Company. The Esquimaux pointed out the direction in which two rivers +near the head of the bay lay. These rivers, of which I took the bearings +by compass, were said to be of no great size, and frozen to the bottom +in winter. The bay was honoured with the name of Sir John H. Pelly, +Bart., Governor of the Company. + +The morning of the 24th was as beautiful as could be desired, with the +thermometer at -15°. There was a gentle air from the east, and the +horizon being very clear, I again obtained a fine view of the bay. + +Having abundance of blubber for dogs' meat and fuel, and as much seals' +flesh and blood for ourselves as at half allowance would serve us for +six or seven days, I determined to trace the shores of the land across +which we had travelled on our outward journey. + +For this purpose, both men and dogs being now much recruited, we started +at 8h. 30m. A.M. and took a N.E. by E. course towards the eastern shore +of the bay, which, having a western exposure, was much encumbered with +rough ice. We had some trouble in getting over this, but found it more +smooth along the shore, which trended due north. Finding that our +sledges were too heavily laden, we left on the ice a quantity of our oil +and blubber. Here we made a mistake in retaining the fresh fat of the +seal, instead of that which had become somewhat rancid, as we found +that, although the dogs ate the latter with avidity, they would scarcely +taste the former. This Ivitchuk well knew, but he was too stupid to tell +me of it at the time. One of our dogs that had done his work well since +leaving Repulse Bay, had become so weak that he could scarcely walk. We +endeavoured to coax him on, but unsuccessfully; it was therefore thought +advisable to leave him where we had lightened our load, as he would have +provisions for at least a fortnight, if not assisted by other animals, +and before that time he would very likely be found by the Esquimaux. A +meridian observation gave latitude 68° 50' 46" N., variation 78° 56' W. + +As the sun had acquired too much power for travelling comfortably during +the day-time, I stopped early so as to be able to continue our journey +about midnight. Our snow hut was built near a small creek, in latitude +68° 58' N., longitude 89° 42' W. The coast had become low and flat, with +a few fragments of limestone and granite boulders showing themselves +occasionally above the snow. The thermometer exposed to the sun's rays +rose to +37°. A little snow fell in the evening. + +On the morning of the 25th there was some more snow with a temperature +of -7°. We did not commence our march until some hours later than I had +expected. The direction of the land continued nearly north for eight +miles; it then turned off to the north-east, and continued so until we +stopped at noon, in latitude by observation 69° 14' 37" N., longitude by +account 89° 18' 18" W. The tracks of a large Polar bear and of some +lemmings were noticed this day. + +26th.--The morning was dark and cloudy when we started at 20 minutes +after one. When just about to set out, we were joined by the poor dog we +had left behind. He had grown into much better condition, although he +was still unable to haul. I may here add that he afterwards quite +recovered, and was the only one of our stock that I took to England with +me. + +Our course for seven miles was east, and then turned off S.E. by S. +forming a cape, which was named Chapman, after one of the Directors of +the Hudson's Bay Company. + +We continued walking on, in nearly a straight line, for 11 miles, when +our dogs became tired, and we encamped an hour before noon, in latitude +by observation 69° 5' 35" N., variation 81° 50' W., longitude by account +88° 43' W. At 11 P.M. we recommenced our march, the weather being +beautiful, and the temperature -8°. + +27th.--The coast trended in exactly the same direction as that we had +passed during the latter part of the preceding day's journey; the +walking was in general good, and our dogs were every day recovering +their strength. A single rock grouse (_tetrao rupestris_) was seen, but +so shy that we could not get a shot at it. Many traces of foxes, and the +recent foot-marks of a large white bear, were also seen. We kept a sharp +out-look for the latter, with the hopes of getting a few steaks out of +him, but he did not show himself. There was a high wall of broken ice +all along the shore here, which may be readily accounted for by the +direction of the coast, which, by contracting the bay, is exposed to the +pressure of the ice coming from the northward. Fortunate it was for us +that we had got some oil and seals' blubber, for there was not a bit of +anything in the shape of fuel to be seen along this barren shore. The +weather having become too warm, about 11 A.M., we stopped in latitude, +by observation, 68° 51' N., longitude by account 88° 6' W. + +The morning of the 28th was particularly fine, with a temperature of 15° +below zero. For eight miles our course was the same as that of the day +before, but the land now turned gradually to the southward, and finally +to about a south-by-west direction. At noon the sun had become so warm, +that we were compelled to encamp for the day. At three miles from where +we had stopped, we passed a small bay, about 1½ mile wide, the only +indentation of the coast we had seen since leaving Pelly Bay. Our +latitude by meridian observation was 68° 32' 40" N., variation of the +compass 70° 55' W., and our longitude by account 88° 2' W. + +29th.--We resumed our march at a little after 11 P.M. on the 28th. The +weather was calm, but cloudy, with the temperature -3°. The line of +coast now ran nearly south, and after a walk of five miles we came to a +narrow point, extending two miles to the eastward. We then crossed a bay +about 1½ mile wide, and arrived at another point of nearly the same +dimensions, both formed of mud and shingle. These I named respectively +after James and Robert Clouston, two intimate friends. + +Four miles further brought us opposite to a small low island, half a +mile from the shore, and at a short distance beyond this we came to a +small bay upwards of a mile wide. A little before noon we stopped to +build our snow hut. The day was now warm, the thermometer having risen +as high as +55° in the sun, and +18° in the shade. One of our best dogs +got lamed by putting his foot into a crack in the ice. We saw the smoke +of open water at no great distance, and heard the ice making a loud +noise as it was driven along with the tide. There were numerous traces +of foxes, and the tracks of a band of deer, with a wolverine in pursuit, +were noticed. The latitude of our position was 68° 15' N., variation 75° +52' W., and longitude by account 88° 5' 36" W. + +30th.--We started at half-past nine the previous night, with clear +weather and a fresh breeze from west, which, with a temperature of -8°, +made our already frost-bitten faces smart severely. After a few miles' +walk, we rounded a low spit of land, which had been hid from our view by +the rough ice on our outward journey, and which I now named Point +Anderson. Between this point and Cape Barclay, of which we now got +sight, there is a narrow bay running up to the northward two or three +miles. + +We had a great quantity of rough ice to scramble over, which, however +fatiguing, afforded some amusement, as the ridiculous positions in which +we were sometimes placed gave abundant food for mirth to those who were +disposed to look at every thing in the most favourable light. + +About midnight the weather became very stormy, so much so indeed that we +had great difficulty in keeping the proper course, which was now to the +north west, for the purpose of picking up the pemmican, &c. which we had +deposited on the shore of Keith Bay on the 12th. On reaching the west +side of the bay at 3 A.M. I found that we were not more than a hundred +yards from where our "cache" was placed, which we found quite safe. +Ivitchuk and the boy having lagged behind, we removed a quantity of +snow, and took possession of our old snow hut to wait for them. After +staying for an hour we resumed our journey, thinking that our companions +might have taken a shorter route across the bay; and this we found to be +the case. It had been cold and stormy during the greater part of the +night; but at 8 h. 30 m. A.M., when we encamped opposite Cape Beaufort, +the weather had become beautiful. + +The whole of the coast which we had traced during the last seven days, +as far as Cape Barclay, was low and flat, with neither rock nor hill to +interrupt the sameness of the landscape. It was named Simpson's +Peninsula after Sir George Simpson, the able and enterprising Governor +of the Hudson's Bay Company's territories, who projected and planned the +expedition, and to whose zeal in the cause of discovery Arctic +travellers have been so often and so much indebted. + +During the remainder of our journey homewards, having followed as nearly +as possible our outward route, we met with little of any interest. We +reached our encampment of the 9th of April on the 1st of May, and found +our "cache" of provisions quite safe. We had now an abundant stock of +food, nor were we sorry to exchange the seals' flesh and blood, on which +we had been subsisting for eight days past, for pemmican and flour. It +is true that during that time we had supped on a few dried salmon, which +were so old and mouldy that the water in which they were boiled became +quite green. Such, however, is the advantage of hard work and short +commons, that we enjoyed that change of food as much as if it had been +one of the greatest delicacies. Both the salmon, and the water in which +they were cooked, were used to the last morsel and drop, although I +firmly believe that a moderately well fed dog would not have tasted +either. + +We now saw numerous tracks of rein-deer, all proceeding in a N.E. +direction towards Melville Peninsula. Early on the morning of the 3rd of +May we arrived at the small lake near Point Hargrave, on which we had +encamped on the 7th of April; much of the snow had disappeared from the +ground in the neighbourhood, and the marmots had already cleared out the +entrances to their burrows, and recommenced their life of activity for +the summer season. Not an hour now passed without our seeing deer; but +they were extremely shy, and the only benefit we received from them was +the life and spirit their presence infused into our dogs. + +The night of the 4th was very unpleasant, there being much snow and +drift, which prevented us from seeing the ridges of snow which occurred +frequently on our path, and which being very hard and slippery, caused +us many falls. At half-past 1 on the morning of the 5th we reached some +old Esquimaux dwellings on the border of Christie Lake, about fifteen +miles from Fort Hope, in one of which we took up our temporary abode. At +2 P.M. on the same day we were again on the march, and arrived at our +home at 8 h. 30 m. P.M. all well, but so black and scarred on the face +from the combined effects of oil, smoke, and frost bites, that our +friends would not believe but that some serious accident from the +explosion of gunpowder had happened to us. Thus successfully terminated +a journey little short of 600 English miles, the longest, I believe, +ever made on foot along the Arctic coast. + +During our absence every thing, had gone on prosperously at winter +quarters. The people had been all in good health, and the wound in +Ouligbuck's arm had healed up, but the limb had not yet acquired much +strength. When I set out on the 5th of April there was but a very small +quantity of venison in store, so that I was afraid that Folster (the man +left in charge) would be forced to use pemmican, which substantial +article I wished to save as much as possible for future contingencies. +Fortunately the Esquimaux brought a little venison to barter, which, +with an occasional deer killed by the hunters, kept the party in food; +although the store at one time was so empty, that they were compelled to +have a dinner of tongues, which (except in case of necessity) were to be +kept for journeys. As the weather in the latter part of April became +stormy, and the deer numerous, the hunters were more successful, and +there was no further scarcity. Ouligbuck had, notwithstanding the wound +in his arm, killed four deer, and sixteen more had been shot by Nibitabo +and some others of the party; so that the meat store was well stocked +when I arrived; and well that it was so, for we were as ravenous as +wolves, and I believe ate more than would have been good for us had our +food been anything but venison, which is so digestible that a person may +eat almost any quantity without feeling any bad effects from it. + +May commenced with a beautiful day, the thermometer being above zero, +and continuing so throughout. This was the only day for many months past +that the negative scale of the thermometer had not been registered. On +the 3rd snowbirds were seen, and marmots had some time before emerged +from their winter quarters. + +The Esquimaux, with the exception of one or two families, had built +their snow huts within a quarter of a mile of our house, where they had +been living for more than a week. They had almost all behaved well, and +were commended accordingly. They had not yet commenced seal hunting, +but were to do so as soon as the seals came up on the ice; in the +meantime they were catching deer in snow traps made by digging holes in +the snow, and covering them with thin slabs of the same material. Wolves +are often taken in a similar manner; but for them the hole requires to +be not less than eight or nine feet deep, and after it is covered with a +thin plate of hard snow (on the centre of which a bait is laid), a wall +is built round it, over which it is necessary for the wolf to leap, +before he can reach the bait. He does so, and falls to the bottom of the +pit, which is too narrow to give him room to make a spring to the top. + +I may now say a few words about our travelling companion Ivitchuk, who +had behaved well throughout the journey. We found him always willing and +obedient, and generally lively and cheerful except when very tired, +which was frequently the case, as he had not been accustomed to travel +so many days consecutively. He accommodated himself easily to our +manners and customs in every respect, living as we did, though he would +swallow a piece of seal's blubber now and then as a delicacy. What +surprised me most was, that he was by no means a very great eater, being +often satisfied with as little as any of the party. Tea and chocolate +were favorite beverages with him, and he had learned to smoke his pipe +as regularly as if he had been accustomed to it all his life. He picked +up a few words of English, which he made use of whenever he thought +they were applicable, and was very anxious to be taught to read and +write. As he, like the rest of the party, was much thinner than when he +commenced the journey, he had made up his mind to do nothing during the +remainder of the spring but eat, drink, and sleep, a determination to +which I believe he most strictly adhered. It was with no small pride +that he received a gun and some ammunition, as a reward for his +services; and a few presents to his wife, one of the best looking of the +fair sex of Repulse Bay, made the pair quite happy, although it was said +that the lady had not behaved very well to her liege lord during his +absence, having taken unto herself another husband named Ou-plik; but +probably the good man knew nothing, or cared little, about it. + +Part of the men were now every day occupied in scraping among the snow +for moss and heather, of which a sufficient quantity was procured to +keep the kettle boiling. + +On Sunday the 9th divine service was read, and thanks offered to the +Almighty for having guided us in safety through the late journey. Many +Esquimaux were present, who conducted themselves with propriety. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + Preparations for exploring the coast of Melville + Peninsula--Outfit--Leave Fort Hope--Pass over numerous + lakes--Guide at fault--Dease Peninsula--Arrive at the + sea--Fatigue party sent back to Fort Hope--Barrier of + ice--Lefroy Bay--Large island named after the Prince of + Wales--Detained by stormy weather--Short allowance--Cape Lady + Simpson--Selkirk Bay--Snow knee-deep--Capes Finlayson and + Sibbald--Deer shot--A cooking scene--Favourite native + relish--Again stopped by stormy weather--Cape M'Loughlin--Two + men left to hunt and fish--Cape Richardson--Chain of + islands--Garry Bay--Prince Albert range of hills--Cape + Arrowsmith--Coast much indented--Baker Bay--Provisions + fail--Proceed with one man--Cape Crozier--Parry Bay--Cape + Ellice, the farthest point seen--Take possession--Commence our + return--No provisions procured by the men left behind--Short + commons--Flock of cranes--Snow-blindness--Arrive at Repulse Bay. + +On the 12th of May preparations were commenced for a journey along the +west side of Melville Peninsula. In expectation of falling in with much +rough ice, I determined on taking dogs only for the first three days of +the journey. The party was to consist of Corrigal (our snow-house +builder), Folster, Matheson, and Mineau, with Ouligbuck as deer-hunter +and interpreter. A fatigue party of two men, and an Esquimaux with a +sledge and good team of dogs, were to accompany us for three days, which +I supposed would be the time required to reach the coast. + +Our provisions for the journey were two bags of pemmican, each 90 lbs., +70 reindeer tongues weighing nearly 30 lbs., 36 lbs. flour, and a little +tea, chocolate, and sugar. We took also a gallon and a half of alcohol +and a small quantity of oil. + +Leaving George Flett in charge at Fort Hope, we started at 10 P.M. on +the 13th of May, and directed our course towards a chain of lakes in +nearly a due north direction. Although the snow was soft, and we had +some rather steep rising grounds to pass over, we made good progress, +and after crossing six small lakes we came to some high table-land, on +which the snow was very deep, and in which the sledge sank very much. A +walk of four miles brought us to another lake of considerable size. A +little after 6 A.M. on the 14th, we found some snow huts that had been +inhabited during part of the winter by the Esquimaux Ecouchi, and soon +had one of them cleared out for the accommodation of the party. + +Although we had not travelled much more than twenty miles, Ouligbuck was +so fatigued that I determined to send him back with those who were to +return to Repulse Bay. We saw no game and only very few tracks of deer. +The weather was so cloudy that no meridian observation of the sun could +be obtained. Our latitude was 66° 52' N., and longitude 86° 46' W., both +by account. + +We resumed our march at 9 P.M. on the 14th, the night being calm, with a +little snow falling. A brisk walk of two miles to the N.W. brought us to +the end of the lake, when we followed the bed of a small stream to the +northward for five miles. Two narrow lakes were next traversed, when our +guide, who appeared to know little about the proper route, led us to the +N.W.; and after crossing five lakelets, and as many short portages, at +half-past 6 A.M. we came to a body of water about the size of that near +which we had encamped the day before. Here we stopped for the day. The +ice on this lake was six feet thick, and gave the men much trouble to +cut through it. There was very little fuel to be found; we were +therefore obliged to burn part of the small quantity of oil we had taken +with us. By a meridian observation our latitude was 67° 5' 3" N., +variation of the compass 53° 30' W., and longitude by account 87° 8' 54" +W. The west side of the creek, and also of the lakes which we passed +over this day, was steep and rocky, although not high; the east sides +were more sloping. + +It was near 10 o'clock at night when we commenced our journey. After an +hour's walk we came to the north end of the lake, but our young +Esquimaux never having been here before (which was rather surprising, as +his usual winter home was not more than ten miles distant), was quite +at a loss what direction to take. It would have been quite easy for me +to have made a straight course by compass, but by doing so we were very +likely to get among ground so uneven, as to be impassable to the dogs +and sledge. We now turned to the east of north, and after crossing a +number of small lakes, arrived at the sea (which here formed a deep +inlet) at a few minutes before midnight. Proceeding down the inlet, +which for a couple of leagues was not more than half a mile wide, with +steep rocky shores (in some places precipitous), we came to rough ice, +and found that there were apparently two openings leading to the +northward. I chose the one to the left, but we had not gone more than a +mile-and-a-half, when we found that we were in an arm of the inlet, and +that the land to the north of us, which I had supposed to be an island, +was joined to the mainland by an isthmus not more than 50 yards wide. +This peninsula I named after P. W. Dease, Esq., the able leader, in +conjunction with T. Simpson, of the expeditions which explored so large +a portion of the Arctic shores in 1837, 1838, and 1839. + +Retracing our steps, we now followed the opening to the right, in which +there were great quantities of rough ice, over which we advanced but +slowly. The inlet (to which I had given the name of Cameron, after a +friend), soon became broader and the ice less rough. At 7 A.M. on the +16th we arrived at the Cape, which last autumn had been named after the +late Thomas Simpson, whose agreeable duty it would have been, had he +survived, to accomplish the survey which I was now endeavouring to bring +to a successful termination. The shores here were very barren, there +being little or no vegetation to be seen, except small patches in the +crevices of the rocks. In a small lake near our encampment, from which +we obtained water, the ice was found to be five feet thick. A sufficient +quantity of fuel was gathered to boil our kettle, and two hares were +shot by Corrigal. We here made a "cache" of some pemmican, flour, &c. +for our return journey. Our snow hut was built on the south side of the +cape, under shelter of rocks, near which there were two small islands. + +The sledge was to be sent back to Repulse Bay from this place, and with +it Ouligbuck, who from his inability to walk would have been an +incumbrance to us. The weather was so cloudy that no observation could +be obtained. Our latitude by account was 67° 22' (which I afterwards +found by observation to be nearly three miles too far north), longitude +87° 3' W. The whole of these three days' journeys had been measured with +a well stretched line, but this we could not expect to carry on further, +as each person would have enough to do with his load. + +Bidding adieu to our companions who were to return to Fort Hope, we +commenced our journey at half-past 8 P.M., each of my men being laden +with about 70 lbs., whilst I carried my instruments, books, and some +other articles, weighing altogether 40 lbs. This was but a light burden +for me, but as I had to examine different objects on the route, and also +to lead the way, I found it quite enough. + +As soon as we had fairly rounded Cape T. Simpson, the coast turned to +the eastward, and became indented with narrow but deep inlets, all of +which were packed full of rough ice. Walking became most difficult. At +one moment we sank nearly waist-deep in snow, at another we were up to +our knees in salt water, and then again on a piece of ice so slippery +that, with our wet and frozen shoes, it was impossible to keep from +falling. Sometimes we had to crawl out of a hole on all fours like some +strange-looking quadrupeds; at other times falling backwards we were so +hampered by the weight of our loads, that it was impossible to rise +without throwing them off, or being assisted by one of our companions. +We therefore found it better to follow the shores of the inlets than to +cross them, although by doing so we had double the distance to go over. +Numerous traces of hares were seen, but we could not afford to lose time +in following them. + +After passing four inlets having some small islands lying outside of +them, we came to a rocky point rather higher than any we had yet met +with on this side of the bay. The coast to the eastward of Point Cowie +(so named after an old friend) became more level, and instead of +granite, was covered with mud, shingle, and fragments of limestone. At +half-past 3 A.M., all of us being sufficiently tired with our night's +work, we built our snow hut and a small kitchen for cooking. This was +our usual practice when we had found, or were likely to find, fuel. In +the present instance, we had the good fortune to collect enough to boil +a kettle of chocolate, and we consequently enjoyed an excellent supper, +if I may so term a meal taken about six in the morning. + +The weather had been fine until midnight, when it began to snow and +drift, with a strong breeze from the north. Thermometer +13°. At noon +the sky was too much overcast to obtain an observation. Our latitude was +67° 24' 20" N., longitude 86° 37' W. both by account. + +When we resumed our journey, at 7 o'clock in the evening of the 17th, +there was still a strong breeze from N.N.W. with snow drift, the +temperature being +18°. Our snow hut of the previous day we now found to +be on the shore of a large bay, the most distant point of which bore +nearly due north. To follow the coast would have cost us a great deal of +additional walking; I therefore determined to attempt the traverse of +the bay towards the point above referred to. All along the coast there +was a belt of rough ice about two miles broad, over which we were forced +to pass before reaching some that appeared smoother outside. To cross +this barrier occupied us more than two hours, and gave us more violent +exercise than all the remainder of the day's journey. It was half-past 3 +A.M. when we arrived at the north point of the bay, which was low and +level, with some hills a few hundred feet high, three or four miles +inland. We had passed two small rocky islands to seaward in the first +part of the night, and there was another close to a bluff point on the +south side of the bay. To this cape I gave the name of Watt. The bay was +called after Lieut. (now Captain) Lefroy of the Royal Artillery, whose +name is well known to the scientific world, and of whose kindness in +aiding me in my astronomical studies I retain a most grateful +remembrance. + +We crossed over to Cape W. Mactavish (so named after William Mactavish, +Esquire, chief trader, an intimate friend, to whom I am much indebted +for assisting me in fitting out the expedition,) and stopped about three +miles beyond it. Here we built our snow hut, which was found by meridian +observation to be in latitude 67° 42' 22" N.; the variation of the +compass 80° 35' W., and the longitude by account 86° 30' W. Directly +opposite our encampment, and extending for about seventeen miles to the +northward of it, there was a large island of table land, with not a +single rock _in situ_ to be seen on it. Its southern extremity bore +nearly west (true) from us, and the strait which separated it from the +mainland was not more than a mile and a half wide. This island was +honoured with the name of His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, and a +smaller one to the south of it was named after Colonel Sabine. + +Not a single living animal had been seen all day, but some traces of +deer proceeding northward were noticed. We were again fortunate enough +to find a little fuel. + +Our route on the following night was nearly straight in a N.N.E. +direction. The snow was very soft and deep in many places. A few hundred +yards from the beach there were steep banks covered with shingle and +small boulders of granite, where we usually found the snow less deep, +and walking consequently better. After travelling nine miles we came to +a considerable creek, about twenty yards wide, in which a deep channel +had been worn among the mud and shingle. Near it there were numerous +Esquimaux marks set up, and circular tent sites, but all of old date. We +continued our march twelve miles further, and at 8 A.M. arrived at +another creek somewhat larger than the last, and with higher banks. Here +there were also many Esquimaux marks, and I afterwards learned that some +parties had resorted hither from Repulse Bay, for the purpose of +catching salmon, trout, &c. About an hour before reaching this place we +crossed a long and curiously shaped point, which I named Point Hamilton +after a near relative. The bay formed by it was called Erlandson. + +One of the men, although an able active fellow, not being used to this +sort of exercise, was much fatigued; and as the weather looked +threatening, I ordered our snow-house to be built--the more readily as +there was fuel to be found. In little more than a hour and a half we +were comfortably housed, and not long afterwards we had taken our usual +morning meal of pemmican seasoned with a handful of flour, those +forming, when boiled together, a very nourishing and not unpalatable +dish. The temperature all night had been 22° above zero, being too warm +for walking pleasantly; and the men, having had to exert themselves +much, were glad to get to rest as soon as possible, whilst I remained up +to obtain a meridian observation of the sun. This gave latitude 67° 58' +49" N. Our longitude by account was 85° 59' 36" W. The sun was too much +obscured by clouds to obtain the variation. We here deposited some +pemmican and a little flour for our return journey. + +When we started at 8 h. 30 m. P.M. on the 19th it blew a gale of wind +from S.S.E. with much drift and snow, the temperature being only 4° +below the freezing point. Fortunately the wind was on our backs; but the +drift was so thick that we were obliged to follow every turn of the +coast, and we could not see more than twenty yards before us. When we +had travelled six miles we came to a bay a mile and a half wide, on the +north shore of which there were two strangely shaped rocks of granite, +having the appearance of an old ruin or portion of a fortress. They +were of a square form, each about twenty-five feet high and nearly as +much in extent. + +Our course now lay due north; but we had not gone more than twelve miles +altogether, when the weather became so unpleasant that we were glad to +get under shelter, and before we did so, every part of our clothes was +penetrated with snow drift. We could obtain no fuel here. + +The weather continued so stormy that we were unable to leave our +snow-hut until a quarter past 8 P.M. on the 21st. During our detention, +finding that our provisions would run short if the walking continued as +difficult as it had been, we took only one not overabundant meal during +the twenty-four hours. There was still some snow falling, so that I +could not take the proper bearings of the land along which we passed. +The land, after we had proceeded N.E. for a few miles, turned to the +southward of east, forming a bay eight miles wide, which, as it was full +of rough ice, we were under the necessity of coasting. This bay was +called after the Rt Hon. the Earl of Selkirk, and the cape forming its +western boundary was named after the amiable lady of our much respected +governor, Sir George Simpson. + +The snow was in many places so soft and deep that we sank above the knee +at every step, which made our night's march fatiguing in the extreme. On +the N.E. side of Selkirk Bay, which is steep and rocky, there was a deep +indentation or inlet, into which two small creeks emptied themselves. +The land for five miles had a N.W. trending, and again turned up to the +eastward of N., forming a high rugged headland, which was named Cape +Finlayson, after Duncan Finlayson, Esq., Chief Factor. At three miles +from Cape Finlayson we passed Point Barnston, and about four miles +beyond this we came to another rocky point, which received the name of +Cape Sibbald. The night had now become very disagreeable, with a heavy +fall of snow; we persevered notwithstanding, partly crossing and partly +coasting a bay heaped with rough ice, and encamped on what I supposed +was its northern extremity, but which afterwards turned out to be an +island, and to which I gave the name of Glen. The bay we had just passed +was called after William G. Smith, Esq., Assistant Secretary to the +Hudson's Bay Company. + +The snow not being in a good state for building, we were rather longer +than usual in getting housed. There was no fuel to be found, so we +followed our old plan, and took a kettle or two of snow to bed with us. +The temperature was very high for the season, being only 5° below the +freezing point. + +When we started at a quarter-past 11 on the 22nd, the night was +beautifully clear and calm, with the thermometer at 13° below zero. +After a three hours' walk we arrived at the north point of a bay, three +and a half miles wide, across which we had come. To the bay I gave the +name of Fraser, and to the point that of Corcoran, after two intimate +friends, chief traders of the Company. + +We had not advanced many miles farther, when some deer were noticed at +no great distance, feeding on the banks of a stream. Being desirous of +procuring some venison if possible, I sent Corrigal (who, with other +good qualities, was a very fair shot) after them, and he was fortunate +enough to shoot a fine buck. But the buck, though wounded, could still +run too fast to be overtaken, and the sportsman was just about to give +up the chase when I joined him, and we continued the pursuit together. +The deer, having got a considerable way in advance, had lain down, but +rose up before we could get within good shooting distance, and was +trotting off at a great pace, when, by way of giving him a parting +salute, I fired, and very luckily sent a ball through his head, which +dropped him. His horns were already about a foot long, and the venison +was in fine order for the season of the year. + +I immediately returned to the men, who had been busily employed +collecting fuel, of which great quantities grew along the borders of the +creek, and sent two of them to assist in skinning and cutting up the +deer, whilst I and the other men continued to gather heather, as we now +anticipated great doings in the kitchen. We placed the greater part of +our venison "en cache," but kept the head, blood, leg bones, &c., for +present use; and being determined to lose nothing, the stomach was +partially cleaned by rubbing it with snow, and then cut up and boiled, +which thus made a very pleasant soup, there being enough of the +vegetable contents of the paunch to give it a fine green colour, +although I must confess that, to my taste, this did not add to the +flavour. Having discussed this mess, a second kettle full was prepared, +composed of the blood, brains, and some scraps of the meat, which +completed our supper. + +It is well known that both Esquimaux and Indians are very fond of the +contents of the paunch of the rein-deer, particularly in the spring, +when the vegetable substances on which the animal feeds are said to be +sweeter tasted. I have often seen our hunter, Nibitabo, when he had shot +a deer, cut open the stomach, and sup the contents with as much relish +as a London alderman would a plate of turtle soup. + +The position of our snow-house was in latitude 68° 33' 26" N., longitude +85° 20' 30" W., both by account. + +The weather was so stormy during the 23rd that we could not continue our +journey. The thermometer rose as high as +39° in the shade, and the +melting of the snow having wet the heather, we were obliged to have +recourse to alcohol. Three or four snow buntings and traces of +partridges (_tetrao rupestris_) were seen. + +On the 24th it still blew a gale of wind from the east, but there being +a partial thaw by the high temperature, there was no drift, and much of +the ground was entirely cleared of snow. + +In the evening the weather became more moderate, and the thermometer +fell to 5° below the freezing point. We started at a few minutes after +10 o'clock, our course being slightly to the east of north. The +travelling was still very fatiguing, as we were frequently forced to +pass over the rocks, or to walk along the steep drift banks, in order to +avoid the rough ice which had been heaped up against the shore. We +passed a number of small bays and points, and when we had advanced +fifteen miles, came to a high cape, which forms the N.W. promontory of a +bay five miles in extent. To the cape I gave the name of M'Loughlin, +after the gentleman who has been for many years in charge of the +Columbia department, and the bay was called after my much valued friend +Nicol Finlayson, Esq., Chief Factor. After passing Cape M'Loughlin we +turned to the eastward, toward the head of the bay, and stopped at 7 +A.M. near the mouth of a creek, where we took up our quarters for the +day. + +There was not so much fuel to be found as at our last encampment, but we +gathered enough to boil our kettle. Some bands of deer and a few +partridges were observed, but we did not waste time in endeavouring to +get a shot at them. Since leaving Fort Hope not a day had passed without +more or less snow falling, which made the travelling much more +difficult than I expected, and our progress consequently so much slower, +that, notwithstanding the addition I had made to our stock of +provisions, there was some danger of our still running short. I +therefore decided on leaving two of the men here to fish and shoot, +whilst I went forward with the others. + +There was a little snow falling when, along with Corrigal and Matheson, +I set out at 10 P.M. on the 25th. The night was mild (6° below freezing) +with a light wind from the east. A walk of two miles brought us to a +head land, which formed the north side of Finlayson Bay, and which +extended seven miles in a W.N.W. direction. To this cape the name of +Richardson was given, after the distinguished naturalist, who, having +already exposed himself to many dangers and privations in the cause of +science, is now about to incur similar hardships in the cause of +humanity and friendship, by searching for Sir John Franklin and his +gallant party, whose situation, it is too much to be feared, is a +critical one. + +At the place where we crossed Cape Richardson it was not more than a +mile wide, and we found ourselves in a large bay, thickly studded with +high and rugged islands. A chain of these islands, which lay outside of +us, and to which I gave the name of Pomona, (after the largest island of +the Orcadian group,) had effectually served as a barrier to the ice from +seaward, and had thus made the walking much smoother than we had hoped +to find it. As we advanced there were many tracks of polar bears, and +also those of a wolverine, that appeared to follow them very closely, +expecting no doubt to appropriate some portion of whatever prey they +might catch. A flock of long-tailed ducks passed us, flying to the +westward, towards some open water, the vapour exhaled from which +appeared in that direction. + +As we approached the north side of the bay, which was named after +Nicholas Garry, Esq., of the Hudson's Bay Company, there were so many +islands that I was much at a loss what direction to take. Under these +circumstances we encamped at 6 A.M. on a high island, about two miles in +diameter, from which a good view could be obtained. Garry Bay is the +most strangely shaped, and the most irregular in its outline, of any we +had yet seen. It presented three long, narrow, and high points of land, +and had four inlets. The largest and most southerly of these points was +called after Lieut. Halkett, R.N., and the most northerly of the inlets +received the name of Black Inlet. As no fuel could be obtained here, we +were reduced to the necessity of using some more of our alcohol, of +which but a small quantity now remained. The men were soon asleep under +our single blanket, (for this was all the covering we had for the +party,) whilst I remained awake for the purpose of obtaining an +observation of the sun at noon. This gave latitude 68° 59' 15" N., +variation of the compass 88° 26' W., our longitude by account being 84° +48' W. + +All the way between Lefroy and Garry Bays there is a range of hills, +from 500 to 800 feet high, about five miles from the coast, which was +distinguished by the name of His Royal Highness Prince Albert, consort +of our beloved Sovereign. + +The weather was beautiful all day, and was equally fine when we +commenced our march at half-past nine at night. Our route lay somewhat +to the west of north, between two lofty islands, the smaller of which +received the name of Gladman, and the larger and most northerly I +designated Honeyman, after a brother. Seven miles from our encampment we +passed a bluff and precipitous point, the northern extremity of Garry +Bay, to which the name of Cape Arrowsmith was given, in honour of John +Arrowsmith, Esq., the talented hydrographer to Her Majesty. + +The land was now completely serrated with narrow points and inlets, +along which we were able to make nearly a straight course, as the force +of the ice from the westward had been much broken by ridges of rocks +that lay outside of us. To four of these inlets I gave the names of +M'Kenzie, Whiffen, Bunn, and Hopkins, after much esteemed friends. + +Towards the end of our night's journey the coast turned nearly due +north, and when we had advanced seven leagues we encamped on Cape +Miles,--so named after Robert Miles, Esq., Chief Factor,--at 7 A.M. +on the 27th. As the morning was exceedingly fine, we thought there was +no necessity for building a snow-house, an omission which we regretted +in the afternoon, when a heavy fall of snow took place. + +By a good meridian observation of the sun, the latitude 69° 19' 39" N., +and the variation of the compass 92° 20' west, were obtained, the +longitude by account being 85° 4' W. The latter is evidently erroneous, +as I had neither chronometer nor watch that I could place dependence +upon, and the compasses were much affected by local attraction. + +Our provisions being now nearly all used, I could advance only half a +night's journey further to the northward, and return the following +morning to our present quarters. Leaving one of the men, I set out with +the other at half-past 9 P.M., the snow falling fast; and although we +had little or nothing to carry, the travelling was very fatiguing as we +crossed Baker Bay--so named in memory of a much valued friend--at the +north side of which we arrived after a walk of four miles. It now snowed +so thick that we could not see farther than fifty yards round us, and we +were consequently obliged to follow the windings of the shore, which, +when we had traced it six miles beyond Baker Bay, turned sharp to the +eastward; but the weather continuing thick, I could not see how far it +preserved this trending. After waiting here nearly an hour, the sky +cleared up for a few minutes at 4 A.M., which enabled me to discover +that we were on the south shore of a considerable bay, and I could also +obtain a distinct view of the coast line for nearly twelve miles beyond +it. + +To the most distant visible point (latitude 69° 42' N., longitude 85° 8' +W.,) I gave the name of Cape Ellice, after Edward Ellice, Esq. M.P., one +of the Directors of the Company; the bay to the northward, and the +headland on which we stood, were respectively named after the +distinguished navigators Sir Edward Parry and Captain Crozier. + +Finding it hopeless to attempt reaching the strait of the Fury and +Hecla, from which Cape Ellice could not be more than ten miles distant, +we took possession of our discoveries with the usual formalities, and +retraced our steps, arriving at our encampment of the previous day at +half-past 8 A.M. Here we found that Matheson, the man left behind, had +built a snow-house after a fashion of his own, the walls being like +those of a stone building, and the roof covered in the same way with +slabs of snow placed on the opposite walls in a slanting position, so as +to rest on one another in the centre. Seven hours had been spent in +building this edifice, which was not a very handsome one; but being +sufficiently wide, and, when our legs were doubled up a little, long +enough for us all when lying down, we found it pretty comfortable. + +During the remaining four hours of our absence, he had been engaged in +an attempt to coax a little wet moss into a sufficient blaze to boil +some chocolate; but, notwithstanding his most persevering exertions, by +the time his fuel was expended, the chocolate was little more than +lukewarm, although our cook _pro tempore_, who was of a sanguine +temperament, firmly believed that it was just about to reach the boiling +point. We finished the process with a little of our remaining stock of +alcohol, and enjoyed an excellent though rather scanty supper. + +Matheson was one of the best men I ever had under my command. Always +ready, willing, and obedient, he did his duty in every respect; and +whilst he possessed spirit enough for anything, he had a stock of good +humour which never failed him in any situation, however difficult and +trying. Were the walking difficult or easy, the loads heavy or light, +provisions abundant or reduced to less than half allowance, it was all +one to Peter Matheson; he had a joke ready for every occasion. + +A few minutes after 10 P.M. on the 28th, we were on the march homeward. +The night was very disagreeable, there being a strong breeze of head +wind with heavy snow, and a temperature much too mild (only 8° below the +freezing point) for walking comfortably. The snow also was very soft, so +that, had it not been for the bad state of our victualling department, +we would have remained snug in our quarters. But needs must when hunger +drives, so we trudged on stoutly, crossing over the land for the purpose +of shortening our distance. After a tough walk, during which we met +with some tracks of bears that had passed only about an hour before, we +encamped on a small island close to Cape Arrowsmith, and nearly three +miles to the northward of our snow hut of the 26th. The weather during +the day became fine, so fine indeed that our house, not being built of +good material, tumbled down about our ears just before we were leaving +it. + +29th.--When we started at half-past 9 P.M., the night was fine, but in +half an hour it began to snow so thick that we could not keep our course +in crossing Garry Bay, where the walking was much worse than when we +formerly passed. In three hours the weather again cleared up, and I +found that we had not deviated much from the right road. + +At 7 A.M. we joined Folster and Mineau, whom we found quite well, but +like ourselves very thin. The only animals they had killed were two +marmots, and no fish had been caught. If we had been twelve hours longer +absent, they intended to have boiled a piece of parchment skin for +supper, and to have kept the small remaining piece of pemmican for +travelling provisions. + +I have had considerable practice in walking, and have often accomplished +between forty and fifty, and, on one occasion, sixty-five miles in a day +on snow shoes, with a day's provisions, blanket, axe, &c. on my back; +but our journey hitherto had been the most fatiguing I had ever +experienced. The severe exercise, with a limited allowance of food, had +much reduced the whole party, yet we were all in excellent health; and +although we lost flesh, we kept up our spirits, and marched merrily on, +tightening our belts--mine came in six inches--and feasting our +imaginations on full allowance when we arrived at Fort Hope. + +On the 30th we continued our course homewards, crossing over the several +points that we had formerly coasted. It snowed heavily all night, and +the temperature was only two degrees below the freezing point. Eight +cranes "winged their circling flight" northward, and half a dozen +sandpipers were seen. It was near 4 A.M. on the 31st when we arrived at +our snow house of the 23rd, which we found quite as good as when we left +it and our cache of venison all safe. Three partridges were shot, which +somewhat aided our short commons. + +On the following night, after an ineffectual attempt to get to seaward +of the rough ice, in which we lost a considerable portion of the skin +off our shins, we travelled on the land, making short cuts whenever +practicable. + +On arriving opposite to Glen Island, we found that it was divided from +the shore by a channel not much more than a quarter of a mile wide. +There was an inlet a few miles in length to the eastward of it, which +was named after the Rev. Mr. Mackar of Kingston, Canada West. This night +was the finest we had experienced throughout the journey. + +A specimen of trap rock was obtained from some rising grounds a mile +and a half distant from the north shore of Smith's Bay, near the head of +which we now for the first time observed a lake of a couple miles in +extent. When half a league from Cape Sibbald, we encamped under shelter +of some precipitous trap cliffs nearly a hundred feet high. Some more +cranes were seen, and numerous traces of deer and partridges. We here +procured some fuel, there being patches of ground bare of snow. Our +latitude by observation was 68° 19' 50" N. Variation of the compass 80° +55' W. Two of the men were affected with snow blindness--one of them +severely. + +1st June.--It blew a gale of wind from S.E., with thick snow-drift at +8h. 30m. P.M. when we resumed our journey. At half-past 10 we crossed +the largest stream that we had yet met with on Melville Peninsula. It +was already partially open, owing to numerous springs, which had formed +many small mounds of ice from ten to twelve feet high. After taking a +copious draught from the limpid stream, we continued our journey across +Point Barnston and Cape Finlayson, until we arrived at Selkirk Bay, +when, the weather having become much worse, we stopped at 1h. 30m. A.M. +to build our snow hut at a place where there was such an abundant supply +of heather, that we had enough to cover our snow-bed with. Two deer were +seen, and Corrigal made an ineffectual attempt to get a shot at them. I +shot five ptarmigan, and four sandpipers were observed. + +During the next night's journey the weather was very snowy, but the wind +being more moderate we got on faster. After coasting Selkirk Bay, we cut +across Cape Lady Simpson, and at half-past 6 A.M. on the 3rd of June, we +reached our encampment of the 19th ultimo in Erlandson Bay, where we +found our small "cache" of provisions quite safe. Five more partridges +were shot, and some deer seen. The snow being very soft, we remained +here all day, and at noon obtained the latitude 67° 59' N., and +variation 75° 9' W. The thermometer in the shade rose as high as +54°, +and our old snow-house tumbled down about our ears in the evening, just +as we were going to take our supper,--perhaps breakfast would be the +more appropriate term, as we had turned day into night. + +We started at 8h. 30m. P.M., and notwithstanding the great power of the +sun, so much snow had fallen lately that it lay far deeper on the ground +than when we had previously passed this way. The walking also was so +much more fatiguing, that we were not able to reach our snow-house of +the 18th of May, and were in consequence under the necessity of building +new lodgings. The night was mild and nearly calm. Two phalaropes (_P. +fulicarius_) were seen, and a couple of ptarmigan shot. There was no +fuel to be found here, but having picked up a little as we came along, +we did not feel the want of it much. + +The 4th was a fine night with the thermometer at +23°, when, at 7h. +40m., we resumed our march. Whilst rounding Cape Mactavish we fell in +with nine partridges, seven of which were shot, and I endeavoured to get +within range of a couple of swans--the first we had seen--but they were +too shy. We now crossed Lefroy Bay, the snow on which was very soft, and +built our snow-house on the ice at 7h. A.M. about four miles from its +south shore. The work during this journey had been so much more severe +than was expected, and the men had in consequence used so much more +tobacco than they had anticipated, that their stock was now quite +exhausted, and they appeared to feel the want as much as if they had +been deprived of half their allowance of food,--perhaps more. It was +really amusing to see how very particular they were in dividing the +small remaining bits which they rummaged from the dust and rubbish in +their pockets, and which at any other time they would have thrown away. +I happened to have a little snuff with me, a pinch of which, in their +necessity, they relished much. + +We were on foot again at 20 minutes after 8 on the 5th. The weather had +been stormy all day, but became fine an hour after we started. We kept +well out from land, expecting to find the ice smoother; and this was the +case as far as Point Cowie; but beyond that the rough ice extended quite +across the bay; we therefore struck in for the shore, which after two +hours' scrambling we reached, and directed our course over the +rocks,--from which the snow had now, in many places, entirely +disappeared,--towards Cape T. Simpson, where we arrived at 5h. A.M. on +the 6th, and found our "cache" of provisions, &c., as we had left it. No +time was lost in getting the stones cleared away from it, not so much +for the purpose of having something to eat, as to find some tobacco that +had been left here among other things. A fine hare had been shot, and as +soon as three of the party, who had stopped behind to gather fuel, came +up, we had a much more abundant and palatable meal than we had enjoyed +for many days before. To the large bay, the survey of which we had now +completed, the name of Committee Bay was given, in honor of the +Committee of the Hudson's Bay Company. This was the finest day we had +experienced during this journey, the power of the sun being so great as +to raise the thermometer to +82°. + +By an excellent meridian observation in quicksilver, our latitude was +67° 19' 14" N., variation of compass, 64° 27' W. Wishing to take a +straighter, and consequently shorter, route to Repulse Bay than that by +which we had gone, we started at 9 P.M. on the 6th, and after a walk of +three hours came to the head of a narrow inlet, with high rocky shores, +and about seven miles long, to which I gave the name of Munro. Our +course overland was nearly due south, and we passed over a number of +small lakes, from which the snow had been partially removed by the +joint action of the sun's rays and the wind. + +On the following night our course continued the same with a slight +inclination to the westward. We had a strong gale of fair wind, which +helped us along amazingly; but as we could easily reach Fort Hope in +another night, and as we had abundance of food, we encamped at 3h. 30m. +A.M. on the 8th, during the whole of which day, until late in the +evening, it blew hard with drifting snow, so that no observations could +be made. + +Being anxious to arrive at winter quarters early on the following day, +we were again on the march at half-past 7 P.M., and the evening having +now become fine, we kept up a smart pace for a few hours until we +arrived at Christie Lake, where, finding some very fine heather quite +dry and free from snow, it was impossible to resist the temptation of +having something to eat and drink. Having taken up our quarters in an +old snow-hut, the chocolate and pemmican kettles were soon on the fire, +and we heartily enjoyed our rather unusual meal. Following the lake and +North Pole River, we came to Fort Hope at 8h. 20m. A.M. on the 9th, all +in good health and spirits, but very much reduced in flesh, although not +quite so black as when we returned from the previous journey. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + Occurrences at Fort Hope during the absence of the exploring + party--Remove from winter quarters to tents--Sun seen at + midnight--Build an oven and bake bread--Esquimaux method of + catching seals--A concert--Lateness of the summer--A native + salmon-wear--Salmon spear--Boulders on the surface of the + ice--Visited by a native from the Ooglit Islands--His report of + occurrences at Igloolik--Indolence of the natives--Ice breaking + up--Halkett's air-boat--A storm--The ice dispersed--Prepare for + sea. + +During my absence from Fort Hope little beyond the usual occurrences of +the winter had taken place. The latter part of May was remarkable for +the great quantity of snow that fell, with gales of wind and drift, +which kept the men almost continually clearing away snow from the roofs +of our houses. They were obliged even to go to work during the night, +and notwithstanding all the care that was taken, two of the boats' yards +were broken, and the masts very nearly shared a like fate, as the post +placed under them gave way. For so great a quantity of snow lodging on +our roof, the man left in charge was to blame, as shortly after my +departure he had the snow thrown up in heaps, which, when the stormy +weather and snow-drift came on, caused drift-banks to be raised to an +equal height (about 4½ feet) on the tops of our dwellings. + +During all this time the thermometer never fell lower than +9°, which +was on the 16th of May, and rose as high as +45°, at mid-day on the +29th. The last day of May was very stormy; but on the 1st of June the +weather changed for the better, although the thermometer was as low as ++12°. On this day the first geese (laughing geese) and some sandpipers +were seen, and one of each was shot. As the partridges were migrating +northward about thirty had been killed, and there was a good stock of +venison in store, the hunters having shot twenty deer. The does were now +very large with young, and had become very poor; the bucks were, +however, improving in condition. + +The Esquimaux had brought in little for trade, a few pairs of boots, +which were soon bought up by the men, and a little oil from Akkeeoulik +being the principal articles. Some of them were getting short of +provisions, not having been able to find a "cache" which they went for. +They had all behaved well, not having committed any thefts that could be +discovered. We had, however, one most incorrigible thief among our +party, Ouligbuck's son, who, during the few days of his fathers absence, +was twice caught with the old man's bale open, eating sugar; some +tobacco was also taken, and the trousers of most of the men were +completely cleared of buttons by the same hands. On my return only one +family of Esquimaux (Shimakuk's) remained near us. Shimakuk had been +waiting for his dogs, which were with the party who had gone in search +of meat. + +On the 13th divine service was read, and thanks returned to the Almighty +for His protection throughout the winter and during the late journey. + +There was a strong breeze of N. wind, with frequent showers of snow. +House very damp; the clay falling from the inside of the walls. + +14th.--The weather was fine and permitted us to get our flour, pemmican, +&c., removed from the meat store (which was now dropping much from the +roof) to the rocks, where it was well covered up with oilcloths. + +The 20th was a most stormy day with occasional showers--wind N.W. There +was a considerable stream of water running on the ice of North Pole +River, forming large pools on the sea-ice, through which it did not yet +find a free exit. + +21st.--There was a change in the weather for the better, although it +still blew a gale; however, as the day advanced the wind became more +moderate, and about noon shifted round to the south. + +The water was rising fast in all the creeks, showing that the process of +destruction was fast going on among the snow and ice. The latter was +still nearly four feet thick on the lakes, but very porous. + +The great rise of water in the creeks and small streams rendered it +very unpleasant and even dangerous to cross them. In attempting to get +near some geese this day I sunk to the waist amidst snow and water, and +not being able to get any firm footing, I found much difficulty in +scrambling out without wetting my gun. + +23rd.--This being a fine day, all the men were employed dismantling the +house and carrying down the provisions, clothes, &c. to the summer +tents, which had been pitched about 300 yards nearer the shore. Two +leather tents were put up for cooking in. We saw the sun at midnight, +his lower limb touching the high grounds to the northward. + +We made some bread in an oven which we had built of stones cemented with +clay of an excellent quality. The upper part of our first batch was well +baked, but the floor of the oven was not sufficiently warm to bake the +lower part. It however rose well, and we afterwards succeeded in making +excellent bread, though the oven was heated with heather.[4] + +15th July.--Weather still stormy and cold to the feelings, the +thermometer being +35°. The water of North Pole Lake had broken through +its barrier of snow and ice, and was rushing down the river with great +force, carrying with it large masses of ice. + +All the men except Flett, who remained at the tents, and Germain, who +had charge of the nets, went to North Pole Lake on the 19th to bring +down the boat. The river being one continued rapid throughout its whole +length, with not an eddy to stop in, they came down at rather a quick +rate, but were compelled to stop within a few hundred yards of the salt +water, on account of the shallowness and the number of stones. +Twenty-two salmon were caught, some in good condition, others very soft +and thin. The former contained roe about the eighth of an inch in +diameter. + +A number of Esquimaux arrived for the purpose of catching salmon, having +finished their seal hunting, which had been successful, although the +number killed could not be ascertained. Our old friends were accompanied +by three strangers, viz., an old man and two young ones, with their +wives and families. Our travelling companion Ivitchuk had shot some deer +with his gun, but having spent nearly all his ammunition, he requested +and obtained a small additional stock. + +Another Esquimaux, a jolly old fellow, with two wives, joined the party +here; he had come from the direction of Wager River this spring on the +ice. He and one or two more old men were nearly starved to death last +winter, being so much reduced that they could not walk. Twenty-three +salmon were got from the nets; some of these were in very poor +condition being evidently out of season; others were in fine order and +full of roe. + +22nd.--One of the old Esquimaux at the fishery speared a seal on the ice +near the edge of the open water, but it got away in consequence of the +line breaking. Their mode of approaching the seal requires much patience +and is very fatiguing, as the hunter must lie flat on his face or on his +side, and advance towards the seal by a series of motions resembling +those of the animal itself. He has frequently to proceed in this way +some hundred yards, but so well does he act his part that he can get +within a few feet of his object, and a looker-on would find much +difficulty in telling which was the man and which the seal. + +The seal actually comes to meet the hunter, who, as soon as it has got +some distance from its hole, springs up and intercepts its return. The +women are very expert at this mode of hunting, and frequently having no +spear, use a small club of wood with which they strike the seal on the +nose. + +The greater part of the Esquimaux were encamped about a quarter of a +mile from us, and had a _concert_ every night,--a union of the vocal and +the instrumental. Their only musical instrument is a sort of drum or +tambourine, consisting of a stout wooden hoop, about 30 inches in +diameter, round which, when it is to be used, a wet parchment deer skin +is stretched. In beating this rough instrument, the hoop, not the skin, +is struck. The performer being in the centre of the tent, keeps turning +slowly round, whilst four or five women add their voices to the +execrable sound, producing among them most horrible discord. Each of the +men in his turn takes up the drum and thumps away till he is tired, when +he lays it down and another takes his place, and so on it goes until it +has passed through the hands of all the males of the party, including +the boys. + +The whole of the natives, with the exception of a few old people who +were remaining at the fishing station, and three young men and their +wives, went the following day to an island four miles off for the +purpose of killing more seals, and also to put new covers on their canoe +frames. + +25th.--This was the anniversary of our arrival here last year; and +certainly everything wore a very different aspect from what it then did. +Last summer at this date there was no ice to be seen in Repulse Bay; the +snow had nearly all disappeared, and the various streams had shrunk to +their lowest level. _Now_ there was not a pool of water in the bay, +except where the entrance of a river or creek had worn away or broken up +the ice for a short distance. There was much snow on the ground in many +places, and most of the streams were still deep and rapid. + +The musquitoes were rather troublesome; but this I was not sorry for, as +the Esquimaux said that the ice in the bay would soon break up after +these tormentors made their appearance. + +As our native friends were now getting sufficient fish to maintain them, +they required no further assistance from us at present. Their mode of +catching salmon is a very simple one. They build a barrier of stones +about 1½ or 2 feet high across a creek, some distance below high-water +mark. The salmon, which keep close to the shore at this season, are by +this means, during the ebb of the tide, cut off from the sea, and are +easily speared. About sixty were thus killed this day. The spear used is +usually made of two diverging pieces of musk-ox horn, from 4 to 5 inches +apart at the extremities; between these there is a prong of bone about 3 +or 4 inches shorter than the outer ones. Each of the longer prongs is +furnished with a barb on its inner side, made of a bent nail or piece of +bone, which prevents the fish from escaping. The handle is 6 or 8 feet +long. The head of the instrument much resembles a three-pronged fork, +with the middle prong a little shorter than the others. + +The moon was full this day. High-water at 45 minutes past noon. Arkshuk, +Shimakuk, and Kei-ik-too-oo visited us on the 28th, bringing a few pairs +of boots for sale. The tins which contained preserved meat, and table +knives and forks, were in great demand among these good folks. One of +the ladies to whom I gave a fork, used it as neatly in eating fish as if +she had been accustomed to it from childhood. Thermometer as high as ++60° in the shade. + +The ice in the bay had broken up for more than a mile from the shore +opposite the mouth of the river, but some distance out it looked as +white and firm as ever. + +I had for some time observed that large stones, some of them of one or +two tons weight, were making their appearance on the ice; and I was much +puzzled to make out how they came there. They could not have fallen from +the shore, as the beach was sloping at the place, nor had they been +carried in by drift ice of the previous season. The only way that I +could account for it was this. At the commencement of winter the ice +layer acquiring considerable thickness, had become frozen to the stones +lying on the bottom, and raised them up when the tide came in. The +stones would get gradually enclosed in the ice as it grew thicker by +repeated freezings, whilst by the process of evaporation, which goes on +very rapidly in the spring, the upper surface was continually wasting +away, so that in June and July there was little of the first formed ice +remaining, and thus the stones which at first were on the under surface +of the ice appeared on the top. This may perhaps in some measure account +for boulders, sand, shells, &c. being sometimes found where geologists +fancy they ought not to be. Ice has been time out of mind the great +"conveyancer." + +August 1st.--We were visited this day by an Esquimaux named I-ik-tu-ang, +whom I had not before seen. He had passed the winter near the Ooglit +Islands, a few days' journey from Igloolik. He said that, when a boy, he +was frequently on board the Fury and Hecla in 1822-23, and that the +"Kabloonans" killed a number of walruses, and some black whales, with +two small boats; that the walruses were put in "cache" for them (the +Esquimaux), who were rather short of provisions at the time, and that +they received the _skins_ of the whales. They had abundance of +provisions last winter, but were visited by a very fatal disease--from +what I learnt of the symptoms, resembling influenza--which carried off +twenty-one grown-up persons. The children were not attacked with this +complaint. Two of the party at Igloolik had been reduced to the +necessity of putting to death and eating two children, to save +themselves from starvation. + +Four men, whilst hunting the sea-horse with their canoes lashed +together, were assaulted by this fierce animal, struck down with his +formidable tusks, their canoes capsized and broken, and the whole party +drowned. Another poor fellow having early in the winter harpooned a +walrus through a hole in the ice, was dragged into the water before he +could disengage himself from the line. The ice being still thin and +transparent, the body was found a few days after. + +I-ik-tu-ang also informed me--as I had already supposed from various +appearances--that there is open water throughout the winter between this +and the Frozen Strait, through which a strong current runs with the +flow and ebb of the tide,--so strong is it that when bears are pursued +and take the water, they are often swept under the ice and drowned. + +In the afternoon two more Esquimaux with their wives from the same +quarter, accompanied by Akkee-ou-lik and his family, made their +appearance. + +Some of the natives who had taken up their quarters near us were +supplied daily with fish. They appeared quite as indolent as most of the +other savage tribes of America, and never thought of looking out for +food, so long as they could get enough to support life from us. Although +they had a wear made for confining the salmon, they would not take the +trouble to spear them when in it. + +We endeavoured to get some young marmots, but without success. I find +that these curious little animals leave their winter habitations, which +are usually formed in dry sandy banks, as soon as the snow has in a +great measure disappeared, and take up their summer residence among the +rocks, where, I have no doubt, they are much safer from their numerous +enemies. + +The weather was still fine on the 6th, but it appeared to have little +effect on the ice in the bay, which still remained hard and fast. All +the largest and deepest lakes were covered with strong ice. + +9th.--On looking out this morning I was happy to see a lane of open +water stretching completely across the bay, but there was still a strong +barrier between us and the south point, although a passage to the +northward might easily have been made. The nets produced eighty salmon, +the greater part of which were given to the Esquimaux. The fishery was +now abandoned, as we could procure close at hand as many salmon as we +required. + +During the whole of our spring fishing Halkett's air-boat was used for +setting and examining the nets, and was preferred by the fishermen to +the large canvas canoe, as it was much lighter, and passed over and +round the nets with more facility. Notwithstanding its continued use on +a rocky shore, it never required the slightest repair. It is altogether +a most useful little vessel, and, as I have said before, ought to form +part of the equipment of all surveying parties, whether by land or sea. + +The men from the fishery were followed soon after by the Esquimaux with +their baggage, which it took more than a dozen trips of our canoe to +ferry over. + +The large lakes were still covered with a thick coat of ice. There were +a great many seals in the open water, and some of the fish in the nets +had been eaten by them. + +10th.--A storm from the north with rain and snow until noon, when the +wind somewhat abated, and the weather cleared up. Great havoc was made +among the ice, and in the evening there was a clear sea as far as the +point of the bay. + +11th.--There was a gale of wind all day with rain occasionally--the +weather cold and unpleasant. We were all busily employed in preparing +for sea. All the snow-banks for six or eight feet from the ground having +been converted into solid ice soon after the spring thaw commenced, we +had to dig out the chain and anchor of one of the boats, which were +buried under ice of that thickness; yet on the very spot where this +chain and anchor lay, there was not a particle of either ice or snow on +the 25th July last year; such is the variable nature of this northern +climate. + +In the afternoon Nibitabo was sent to endeavour to get some fresh +venison for our voyage, and shot two young deer; St. Germain and Mineau +set the nets for a supply of salmon, and I was busy distributing among +the Esquimaux axes, files, knives, scissors, &c. &c. &c. + +The large lakes were still covered with ice, but in the bay there was +little or none to be seen. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[4] Receipt.--Seven lbs. flour, 1 oz. carbonate soda, ¾ oz. citric +acid, ¾ oz. common salt, water (cold), about ½ gallon. The salt, +soda, and acid being finely powdered and dry, are to be well mixed +together; this mixture being well wrought up with the dry flour, the +water is to be added in 2 or 3 parts and mingled with the flour as +quickly as possible; the dough being put into pans is immediately to be +placed in the oven. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + Voyage from Repulse Bay to York Factory. + + +Having got every thing ready, the boat launched and loaded about 2 +o'clock P.M. on the 12th of August, I was about to distribute our spare +kettles, some hoop iron, &c. among the Esquimaux, when the compass of +one of the boats was missing. Search was made, but no compass was to be +found. At last I thought of turning over some heather that lay close to +where my tent had been, and there discovered it. It had been concealed +by one of the Esquimaux women--a widow--to whom more presents had been +made than to any of the others. + +Some of the most decent of the men appeared really sorry at parting, and +waded into the water to shake hands with me. + +We got under weigh with a light air of wind from the N.E. at 25 minutes +past 2. Our progress was very slow, there being frequent calms, so that, +between pulling and sailing, we reached only to within five miles of +Cape Hope at 4 A.M. of the 13th. A large black whale and some white +ones, with innumerable seals, were seen. Thermometer at +65; but it +became much colder after the wind came from sea. During the night we +sailed among loose ice. As it was still calm we anchored at half-past 4 +A.M. to wait for the other boat, which was some miles astern, to re-stow +the cargo and cook breakfast. Thermometer at 5 A.M. +48°. + +At half-past 6 we began pulling along shore. An hour afterwards a light +breeze sprung up, but still ahead. The breeze becoming stronger, we +hoisted sail and turned to windward, and would have made good progress +had it kept steady; instead of which it followed or rather preceded the +sun in his course westward, and thus headed us at every point we +weathered. The flood-tide assisted us until 4 P.M., when we put ashore, +as the ebb was too strong for us. Shot a young Arctic hare. There is a +number of long narrow lakes near the point we stopped at, which is +formed of grey and red granite and gneiss, and is about five miles from +the S.E. point of Repulse Bay. Caught three species of marine insects +with fins, which they use like wings: preserved specimens of them. Every +appearance of rain this evening. Thermometer +65° at 8 P.M. + +14th. The wind shifted to the N.N.W. at half-past 9 last night, when we +immediately got under weigh and sailed cautiously along shore, examining +every bay and inlet when I supposed us near the northern outlet of +Wager River, but not a trace of it was to be seen. If it exists, I think +it not likely that it should have escaped our notice twice. The wind was +for a few hours variable and squally; but it now shifted to N.E. by N. +and blew hard. In crossing Wager River Bay, eight or ten miles from +shore, there was a very heavy cross sea, which washed over our gunwales +occasionally. On nearing the shore the run of the sea became more +regular; but the wind increased so as to make it necessary to reef +sails. The weather assuming a very threatening appearance, and the +navigation being intricate and dangerous, we were forced to seek a +harbour, which, after some difficulty, we found in a small bay at 8 +P.M., having run from ninety to ninety-five miles, seventy-three of +which were measured by Massey's patent log. Two white bears and many +walruses were seen on a small island near Whale Island; but the weather +was too stormy to permit us to pursue them. + +It had been my intention to cross over to Southampton Island and trace +that portion of the coast from Port Harding southward which had not yet +been surveyed; but a stream of ice and the state of the weather +prevented my doing so, nor did I think it an object of sufficient +importance to detain the expedition a day or two for that sole purpose. +Thermometer about +41° all day. + +The male eider and king ducks appeared to have left this coast already, +there being none but females seen. Our boat took the ground about half +ebb--a fine bottom of sand and mud. + +15th.--It blew a complete gale all night and during the greater part of +this day. The sky, however, was sufficiently clear to allow me to obtain +a meridian observation for latitude and variation. The former was found +to be 64° 49' 06" N.--the latter 41° 27' W. Thermometer +46°. + +The wind began to fall in the evening, and the tide having come in so as +to float the boats, we started at 4 P.M. under reefed sails. The sea was +still running high, but it was long and regular; and as there was every +appearance of fine weather, I determined to sail all night, keeping a +sharp look-out ahead for shoals, reefs, and islets. There was a heavy +swell all night which broke with great violence on the reefs; and it +being very dark, both boats were once or twice nearly filled by getting +into shallow water before we were aware of it. + +16th.--At half-past 5 this morning we were opposite Cape Fullerton, and +at 6 Massey's log was examined, when it indicated a run of seventy-two +miles. At 9 A.M. it fell calm. Thermometer +43°. An hour afterwards +there was a light breeze from S.W., with which we turned to windward +among numerous rocky islands. + +At noon the latitude, 63° 56' 13" N., was observed, and shortly +afterwards two Esquimaux were seen coming off in their kayaks, paddling +at a great rate; but the breeze had now freshened, and it would have +given them hard work to overtake us had we not shortened sail, and +afterwards landed on an island, where we waited for them. Three more +joined us there. They were very dirty, and far inferior in every respect +to our friends of Repulse Bay. One of them was about five feet eight +inches high, had a formidable beard and moustache, and was better +looking than the others. After making them some presents we shoved off, +and stood across the bay to the westward of Cape Fullerton. This bay is +much deeper than it is laid down in the chart, and is crowded with +islands. + +It was near high water when we reached the main shore, and as we could +make no progress against wind and tide, we put into a safe harbour. +Nothing was to be seen for a mile or two inland but rocks, clothed in +some spots with moss or grass. Deer were observed, and a young one shot +by Nibitabo. + +About an hour after our landing the wind shifted to W.N.W., and, as I +was afraid of getting aground in our present berth, the boats were moved +to a more open situation from which they could start at any time of +tide. + +The Esquimaux could tell us nothing about Churchill, none of them having +visited that place either this or the previous summer. Thermometer at 9 +P.M. +53. + +17th.--We were under weigh at 2 A.M., but the wind was both light and +close, so that our progress was slow. Before the tide changed it came +more from the southward; we were therefore obliged to anchor as soon as +it began to ebb. The latitude of our harbour was 63° 47' 33" N. Var. 31° +8' W. The rocks, like those where we landed last night, were grey +granite and gneiss. Thermometer at noon +60°. A large black whale was +seen this morning. + +At half-past 1 P.M. the tide began to flow, and at two we were under +sail, the wind having gone round to the northward, so as to permit us to +lie our course along shore. A succession of reefs lines the coast, which +is itself very irregular in its outline, being indented with numberless +inlets, some of them running many miles inland. + +The tide began to ebb at 8 P.M., and as the wind had fallen and headed +us, we ran in shore and cast anchor under the shelter of some rocks. It +was just getting dark when a fresh breeze of fair wind sprung up. This +was annoying enough. At 10 o'clock nine Esquimaux visited us, but staid +only a short time, as we were to stop near their tents in the morning. +Two of them said they would sleep on the rocks near us, with the +intention of pointing out the deepest channel when we should resume our +voyage. + +18th.--We started at daylight this morning, but the fair wind, which had +continued all night, soon failed us. Aided by the flood-tide, however, +an hour's rowing brought us to the encampment of our last night's +visitors, who welcomed us with much noise, and soon brought to the beach +a number of furs and other articles for trade. They were very easy to +deal with, apparently putting implicit confidence in our honesty; nor +were they losers by this conduct. Ammunition was the article chiefly in +demand, as they had two guns among the party. Files, knives, +fire-steels, &c. were distributed among the men, and beads, needles, +buttons, &c. among the women. One of the women was rather good-looking, +but they were all much darker than the natives of Repulse Bay. They were +well provided with food, as they had a large seal lying on the rocks, +besides venison. It was still calm when we left them, but favoured by +the ebb-tide we pulled out of the inlet, and shaped our course towards +Chesterfield Inlet, which we crossed with the last of the flood. The day +was beautiful--far too much so--and the few light airs of wind were all +against us. We landed in a small cove on the south side of the inlet to +pick up a deer that was shot from the boat. Four more deer were killed, +but all in poor condition. + +About two miles to the northward of the inlet I obtained a meridian +observation of the sun in the natural horizon, which gave latitude 63° +32' 00" N. Thermometer at noon +65°, and in the evening +70°. The +musquitoes were very numerous and troublesome. Numbers of turnstones +(_Tringa interpres_) were seen. + +19th.--There was a fine breeze again all last night, which died away at +daylight. As soon as the flood-tide began to come in, we started with a +light wind fair enough to allow us to lie our course along shore for a +few miles. It again fell calm, when we took to the oars and landed on a +point five miles to the southward of our last night's harbour, where we +breakfasted at 9 A.M. + +Dovekies in countless numbers were sitting on the stones, and swimming +along the shore;[5] one or two pintailed and mallard ducks were seen on +a lake a few hundred yards inland--the first we have seen since passing +Nevill's Bay last year. Some dovekies' eggs were found with the birds +formed in them. + +Having obtained a meridian observation of the sun, which gave for the +latitude 63° 17' 00" N., and variation 9° 21' W., we got under weigh and +beat to windward with the last of the ebb, which here ran to the south. +There was a fine breeze, but we made only about five miles southing, +when at 6 P.M. the flood setting in strong against us, we put ashore +for the night under the lee of the point. It was not easy to find a +harbour, all the coast from Chesterfield Inlet being flat and stony, and +lined with shoals. A young buck was shot, but it was in poor condition. +Thermometer at noon +63°--at 8 P.M. +57°. Some of the copper came off +our boat to-day and stopped her way before it was observed. + +20th.--We were under weigh this morning by daylight, but the wind was +right ahead and blowing fresh. Some more copper came off the boat, and +she was evidently out of trim, as the Magnet went fast to windward of +us. She had become leaky also, and therefore I determined to lay her +aground as soon as the tide turned. + +We had gained between six and seven miles, when, finding that we made +but slow progress, I put on shore at the first place that offered +shelter, a little before noon. Several deer were seen, and a large buck +shot, which I was surprised to find very lean. At this season, near +Repulse Bay they are in fine condition. Thermometer at noon +61°. At +half-past 2 the wind changed to W.N.W., but it blew a gale before the +tide flowed sufficiently to float us. We could do nothing but haul out +into deeper water, to be ready by dawn next morning. + +Some pintails, mallards, and Hutchins and laughing geese were seen here; +also a brood of well-grown young king-ducks in a small lake at some +distance from the sea, with which it had no connection. + +Just as our boats floated, the wind became more moderate; and as we had +still an hour and a half of daylight, we sailed along the coast for 4½ +miles, being forced to keep some miles from shore to avoid shoals. Soon +after sunset we ran into a bay for shelter during the night. In doing so +we grazed some ridges of stones, but found good anchorage in four +fathoms water. Thermometer +47°. + +21st.--Thermometer +44°. There was a strong breeze with heavy squalls +from the north all night. On starting at daylight and making for the +only outlet that appeared, we found it too shallow, and so were forced +to wait the flow of the tide. The wind was W. by N., but gradually +shifted round against us and became very light. We managed, however, to +reach an island near the north point of Rankin's Inlet. + +Although there was a fine breeze, it being right ahead, nothing was to +be gained against the ebb tide. + +We found many old signs of Esquimaux visits to the island. Among other +articles picked up were an ivory snow-knife, a drill for producing fire, +and an iron drill; also some vertebrę of a whale measuring ten inches in +diameter. There were numerous graves of Esquimaux here, with spears, +lances, &c. deposited beside them. Most of these articles were old and +much corroded with rust, but a very excellent seal-spear head had been +placed there this spring. Thermometer at noon +52°; 8 P.M. +47°. +Temperature of water +41°. + +22nd.--Thermometer +42°. At a little before 5 this morning the wind +shifted to S.S.E. We set out to cross Rankin's Inlet, although we could +not lie our course, and after five hours' sailing reached an island near +the south shore, where we landed, as the breeze had increased to a gale +and gone more to the southward, with a heavy sea, which washed over us +occasionally. We here picked up some specimens of copper ore, but the +ore did not appear to be abundant. + +The aurora was very bright last night. It appeared first to the S.S.E., +moved rapidly northward, spreading all over the sky, and finally +disappearing in the north. This agrees with what Wrangel asserts, "that +the aurora is affected by the wind in the same way as clouds are." Heavy +rain and a strong gale from noon until 8 P.M. Temperature of water +42°; +air +43°. + +23rd.--The wind was right ahead but light this morning. We got under +weigh and beat to windward some miles, alternately sailing and pulling +until we reached the north point of Corbett's Inlet. We were here +visited by eighteen Esquimaux in their kayaks. All the news they could +give us was that one of Ouligbuck's sons had passed the winter near +this place, and that he had walked to Churchill in the winter, where all +were then well. A brisk trade was soon opened; the articles in greatest +request being powder and ball. Some fox and wolf skins were received; +but before they had brought out the half of their stock, the wind +changed from S.W. to N.W. by W. and blew a gale, which soon raised a sea +that washed over the canoes alongside. Being anxious to take advantage +of the fair wind to cross Corbett's Inlet before dark, after making our +friends presents of various articles, we set sail and ran across the +inlet, encountering a heavy sea caused by a swell from the south meeting +the waves raised by the present gale. We were three hours crossing to +the south point of the inlet, off which lie some dangerous reefs five or +six miles from land. The wind was very close as we turned the point; and +after gaining six miles further, we were forced to make a number of +tacks before getting into a harbour, which proved to be an excellent +one, land-locked on all sides. Little soil was to be seen on the rocks, +which were of granite. We had shipped a good deal of water, and it was +past 9 P.M. when we got under shelter. Thermometer +45°. Hundreds of +grey phalaropes were seen, supposed to be Phalaropus fulicarius. + +24th.--It blew so hard this morning that we could not start until 8 +o'clock. The wind after that moderated gradually, and latterly fell +calm. By rowing we arrived at the S.E. end of the island[6] near Whale +Cove, where we were visited by a party of natives, who brought off some +furs and boots for trade. A breeze from S.S.E. sprung up about 1 +o'clock, with which we turned to windward through a narrow channel +between a small island and the main. When we reached the open sea the +wind was too much ahead for us to advance against the ebb tide, and as a +convenient harbour offered itself, we anchored for the night. Our +latitude at noon was 62° 13' 19"; after which we advanced about four +miles to the southward. Ouligbuck told us that, when a little boy about +seven years old, he visited this place with his parents, and went out to +Sea-Horse Island on the ice to hunt the animals from which it takes its +name. Three large black whales were seen to-day. Thermometer +46°, +53°, +and +42°. + +I was much pleased to observe that the nearer we approached to +Churchill, the more confidence the Esquimaux placed in us. They fixed no +price for their goods, but threw them on board the boat, and left it to +me to pay them what I pleased. This confidential mode of dealing, which +is not in keeping with the habits of the Esquimaux tribes, at least +shows that they are satisfied with the treatment they receive at +Churchill. To the Hudson's Bay Company, indeed, they have much reason to +be grateful for having, by their influence, at last created a friendly +feeling between them and the Chipewyans, with whom they used to be at +constant and deadly enmity. + +25th.--There was heavy rain all last night, which continued until +between 9 and 10 o'clock this morning. We then got under weigh with the +first of the flood, but it fell calm. We rowed for fourteen or fifteen +miles, the rain pouring all the time. A fine breeze from N. by E. sprung +up at 4 P.M., before which we ran direct for the passage between Sir +Bibye's Islands; but finding the water become very shallow, and learning +from Ouligbuck that there was not water enough for boats except at full +tide, we kept outside the islands altogether. We reached the main land a +little after sunset at the south point of Nevill's Bay, and ran for +shelter into a small inlet separated on the south by a narrow point from +a deep river, to which the Esquimaux resort to catch salmon. Thermometer ++37° and +41°. As the moon was full, I at first intended running on all +night, but the threatening look of the weather deterred me. + +26th.--Last night, about an hour after casting anchor, the moon became +overcast, and it blew a perfect gale. On landing this morning we found a +quantity of wood, a large sledge 30 feet long, and some slender pieces +of wood fastened together to the length of 40 feet. There were two of +these poles, which are used by the natives for spearing small seals. It +is said that, in Davis' Straits, the Esquimaux use poles of the same +kind for spearing whales. + +As the bay in which we were lying was not very safe should the wind +change, we got under weigh and turned into the mouth of the river under +close-reefed sails. The boats shipped much water, particularly the +Magnet, keeping a man constantly baling. We at last got under the lee of +a point where there was a sandy bottom, but not water enough to float +the boats at low tide. The river is about a mile broad, and deep enough +in the middle for a vessel drawing 12 or 14 feet water. + +We saw a number of whalebone snares set along the edges of the lakes for +geese, large flocks of which were feeding about, but very shy. There was +a storm from N.N.W. all the afternoon with heavy rain. Thermometer +36°. + +27th.--It felt very cold this morning; the thermometer was at the +freezing point, and there was some snow. The storm had continued all +night with increasing strength, but towards day-light the weather became +more moderate, so that about 9 o'clock we were able to start under +reefed sails. The breeze gradually died away and went round to the S.W., +and it finally became calm. Heavy rain and sleet began to fall; the wind +veered round to the S.E., so that we could lie our course, and make good +progress with the flood. + +At 6 P.M. we reached a bay a few miles north of Knapp's Bay, which I had +not noticed on our outward voyage, and which is not laid down on the +charts. It is about ten miles wide and eight deep; the water in it is +very shallow, no where exceeding ten feet; and as it was within an hour +or two of high water, the greater part of it must be dry when the tide +is out. + +Numbers of Brent geese were feeding in all directions on a marine plant +(_zostera marina_, Linn.) which grows here in great abundance. + +We anchored under the lee of an islet in Knapp's Bay, a very small +portion of which was visible at high water. Thermometer +38°. + +28th.--We were under weigh at day-light this morning, with a strong +breeze of north-west wind, which made us close-reef our sails. There was +a heavy sea in Knapp's Bay. At 8 A.M. we passed to the westward of the +island, under which we found shelter during the gale of the 8th of July +last. The wind was cold, with occasional showers of rain. Great numbers +of geese were seen passing to the southward. In the evening the wind +became more moderate and finally calm. Our water-kegs being empty, I ran +inshore a little before sunset, and entered Egg River, in which we found +a safe harbour. This river discharges a considerable body of water into +the sea by five mouths, separated by four islets. There is no island +lying opposite to its mouth, as represented in the charts. Thermometer +from +35° to +40°. + +29th.--The boat lay afloat all the night, which was fine but dark. +There was not a breath of wind until 7 o'clock. An hour after starting, +a moderate breeze sprung up from W. by N., but soon became light and +variable, and at last it fell calm a short time before sunset, when, +having gained about 40 miles, we pulled into a small bay, which afforded +us good shelter. The day was fine throughout, with occasional light +showers of rain. Thermometer from +45° to +52°. + +The sky was too much overcast for me to obtain any observation, but it +appears to me that Egg River is laid down in the charts about 12 miles +too far to the southward, and Egg Island is 12 miles south of the river +instead of being near its mouth, as there represented. + +30th.--We had 13 feet water last night when the tide was in, but it was +not until the flood had made two hours that we floated. The night was as +fine as the last and calm. There was a light air of west wind when we +got under weigh, with which and the flood-tide we slipped alongshore +pretty fast. In an hour or two the wind began to fly about from all +points, with calms between, so that even with the help of our oars we +only made 22 miles; and not being able to reach Seal River, we ran into +a small bay--the only spot that appeared clear of stones for some +miles--about 12 miles north of it. Here abundance of drift wood was +found, with which the men lighted fires sufficiently large for the +coldest winter night. The evening was very warm, and the musquitoes +were troublesome. The country inland is well wooded. Great numbers of +mallard, teal, pintails, and long-tailed ducks were seen, but only two +or three were shot. + +31st.--Left our harbour as soon as the tide permitted, which was at 7 +A.M. A light but fair breeze from N. by W. gradually increased, so that +we made a fine run across Button's Bay, which is as full of rocks and +shoals as represented in the charts, and entering Churchill River a few +minutes after 1 P.M., landed in a small cove a few hundred yards above +the Old Fort. + +On visiting the Company's establishment, I found that Mr. Sinclair was +absent at York Factory; but I was very kindly received by Mrs. Sinclair, +and liberally supplied with everything we required for the continuation +of our voyage. As we had carried away our bowsprit, Turner was set to +make a new one. + +I received many letters from much valued friends, and after remaining +for a few hours, returned to the boats at 9 P.M. in order to be prepared +for starting early in the morning, should wind and weather prove +favourable. The stock of provisions on hand was eight bags of pemmican +and four cwt. of flour. We left Ouligbuck and his son at Churchill. + +3rd September.--For the last two days the wind had been fair, but +blowing a gale, with such a heavy sea that we could not proceed. The +weather was so cloudy that I could obtain no observations; I therefore +employed most of my time in shooting Esquimaux curlews, which were so +abundant near the Old Fort that I bagged seven brace in a few hours. + +This morning the wind shifted more to the westward, and becoming more +moderate, we got under weigh at 9 A.M. There was still a heavy swell +outside and at the entrance of our little harbour. Whilst coming out in +the dawn of the morning three seas came rolling in one after the other, +and broke completely over the bows of the boat, washing her from stem to +stern. I thought she would have filled, but we got into deep water +before any more seas caught her. The Magnet was even more roughly +handled in following us, having shipped much water and struck heavily on +the rocks--fortunately without damage. The wind died away, and during +the morning shifted to south. We, however, reached Cape Churchill, and +at 8 P.M. cast anchor under its lee, exactly opposite an old stranded +boat. + +4th.--We had a breeze from S.W. by S. to-day, which enabled us to get +along the coast sixteen or eighteen miles during the flood. It blew so +hard in the afternoon that we required to double-reef our sails. The +weather was very warm, the thermometer being as high as +60° in the +shade. A Canada nuthatch (_sitta Canadensis_) flew on board to-day, and +was very nearly caught. There were a good many ducks and geese near the +place where we landed to get fresh water. Between thirty and forty of +the former and two of the latter were shot. The boats were allowed to +take the ground, after two hours' ebb, on a fine shingle beach, on which +a considerable surf was breaking. + +5th.--It was calm all night. At 3 this morning the boat floated, and we +pushed out a short distance from shore to be ready for the first fair +wind. At half-past seven a light air sprung up from N.E., but did not +increase till past noon, when there was a fine breeze. A meridian +observation of the sun gave latitude 58° 26' 14" N. At 5 P.M. we were +opposite the mouth of Broad River, latitude 58° 7' 0" N. Thermometer at +noon +56°. + +6th.--We were under weigh this morning a little before daylight with the +wind from N.E. The weather was so thick that we could not see more than +a hundred yards ahead. We, however, ran on by soundings until I thought +we were near North River, and then kept inshore until we got sight of +land, which proved to be close to Nelson River, across which we stood, +directing our course by compass, and coming in directly opposite the +beacon. We arrived at York Factory between 9 and 10 o'clock, P.M. and +were warmly welcomed by our friends, who had not expected to see us +until next summer. + +In justice to the men under me, let me here express my thanks for their +continued good conduct under circumstances sometimes sufficiently +trying;--in fact, a better set of fellows it would be difficult to find +anywhere. + +As to their appearance when we arrived at York Factory, I may adopt the +words of Corporal M'Laren in charge of the Sappers and Miners who are to +accompany Sir John Richardson,--"By George, I never saw such a set of +men." + +FOOTNOTES: + +[5] The dovekie, or black guillemot (_Uria grylle_), breeds in great +numbers in the Orkney islands. I believe ornithologists are mistaken in +supposing that this bird becomes white or rather grey during the winter. +It is only the young birds that are so; the old ones are seen in winter +without any change in the colour of their summer plumage. + +[6] This place is laid down on the chart as an island, but is a +peninsula according to the account we received from the Esquimaux. + + + + + APPENDIX. + + + LIST OF MAMMALIA, + + _Collected during Mr. Rae's Expedition, with Observations by J. + E. Gray, Esq., F.R.S. &c._ + +1. _Mus Musculus._ Linn. York Factory. Probably introduced from Europe. + +2. _Arctomys Parryi._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. p. 158, tab. 10. + +3. _Lepus Glacialis._ Leach. Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. 221. + +MYODES.--The specimens brought by the expedition have enabled me + to make some corrections in the characters assigned to these + species. I may observe that the large size or peculiar form of + the claws which has been regarded as a character of the species, + appears to be peculiar to one sex--probably the males. + +1. _The upper cutting teeth narrow, smooth without any + longitudinal groove. Thumb with a compressed curved acute claw._ + (Lemnus). + +_Myodes, Lemnus Pallas._ Glires 77 of Sweden. + +_Myodes Helvolus._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. p. 128, belong + to this section. All the museum specimens of these species have + small, simple, curved, acute claws. + +4. _Myodes Hudsonius._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. 132. + +Grey, black washed beneath white, sides reddish, sides of the + neck red, nose with a central black streak, claws of male(?) + very large, compressed, equal, broad to the end, and notched; of + female small, acute. In winter with very long black white-tipped + hairs. Mr. Rae brought home two males, one in winter and one in + change fur, and two females in summer fur. + +5. _Myodes Greenlandicus._ + +Reddish-grey, brown, black varied, back with a longitudinal + black streak, beneath grey brown, chest, nape, and sides + ruffous. Front claw of males(?) compressed, curved, the under + surface (especially of the middle one) with a broad, round, + expanded tubercle. I have not seen this species showing any + change in its winter fur. + +2. _Upper cutting teeth broader, with a central longitudinal + groove. The claw of the front thumb strap-shaped, truncated, and + notched at the tip._ + +6. _Myodes Helvolus._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. 128. (female?) + +Fur very long, black, grey-brown; black grizzled, hinder part of + the body reddish, beneath grey, sides yellowish. Claws of the + fore feet (of the males?) large, thick, rounded, curved, bluntly + truncated at the tip; of the female compressed, curved, acute. + +7. _Myodes Trimuconatus._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. 130. + +Bright red brown, head blackish-grey, sides and beneath pale + ruffous, chin white, claws moderate, compressed. This species is + best distinguished from the former by its larger size and the + great brightness of the colour, and the fur being much shorter + and less fluffy. + + + LIST OF THE SPECIES OF BIRDS + + _Collected by Mr. Rae during his late Expedition, named + according to the "Fauna Boreali-Americana," by G. R. Gray, Esq., + F.L.S._ + +FALCONIDĘ. + + Aquila (Pandion) halięeta. + Falco peregrinus. + " islandicus. + Accipiter (Astur) palumbarius. + Buteo lagopus. + " (Circus) cyaneus. + +STRIGIDĘ. + + Strix brachyota. + " funerea. + " Tengmalmi. + +JANIADĘ. + + Tyrannula pusilla. + +MERULIDĘ. + + Merula solitaria. + +SYLVIADĘ. + + Sylvicola ęstiva. + " coronata. + " striata. + " (Vermivora) rubricapilla. + " " peregrina. + Seiurus aquaticus. + Anthus aquaticus. + +FRINGILLIDĘ. + + Alauda cornuta. + Emberiza (Plectrophanes) nivalis. + " " lapponica. + " " picta. + " canadensis. + " (Zonotrichia) leucophrys. + " " pennsylvanica. + " " iliaca. + Fringilla hyemalis. + Pyrrhula (Corythus) enucleator. + Logia leucoptera. + Linaria minor. + +STURNIDĘ. + + Quiscalus versicolor. + Scolecophagus ferrugineus. + +CORVIDĘ. + + Garrulus canadensis. + +PICIDĘ. + + Picus (Apternus) tridactylus. + Colaptes auratus. + +RASORES. + + Tetrao canadensis. + " (Lagopus) mutus. + " " saliceti. + " (Centrocercus) phasianellus. + +GRALLATORES. + + Calidris arenaria. + Charadrius semipalmata. + + Vanellus melanogaster. + Strepsilas interpres. + Tringa Douglassii. + " maritima. + " alpina. + " Schinzii. + " pusilla. + " cinerea. + Totanus flavipes. + " macularius. + Limosa hudsonica. + Scolopax Wilsoni. + Phalaropus hyperboreus. + " fulicarius. + +NATATORES. + + Podiceps cornutus. + Larus argentatoides. + Lestris pomarina. + " parasitica. + " Richardsoni. + Anas (Boschas) crecca, var. + " " discors. + Somateria spectabilis. + " mollissima. + Oidemia perspicillata. + " americana. + Harelda glacialis. + Mergus serrator. + Anser albifrons. + " hyperboreus. + " Hutchinsii. + " bernicla. + Colymbus arcticus. + " septentrionalis. + + Myiodioctes pusilla. + Regulus calendula. + Sitta canadensis. + Linaria borealis. + Tringa rufescens. + " pectoralis. + Totanus solitarius. + + + FISHES, + + _Collected during Mr. Rae's Expedition. By J. E. Gray, Esq., + F.R.S._ + +GADIDĘ. + + _Lota Maculosus._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. iii. 248. Male + and female. + +ESOCIDĘ. + + _Esox. Lucius._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. iii. 124. Female. + +CYPRINIDĘ. + + _Catastomus Forsterianus?_ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. iii. + 116. Female. Lakes near York Factory. The "Red Sucker." + + _Catastomus Hudsonius._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. iii. 112. + River near York Factory. "The Grey Sucker." + +SALMONIDĘ. + + _Salmo. Salar??_ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. 145. Repulse Bay. + + _Salmo Hoodii._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. iii. 173, t. 82, f. + 2, t. 83, f. 2, t. 87, f. 1. Male and female. Lakes near York + Factory. + + _Salmo Coregonus Albus._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. 195. t. + 89, f. 2, a. b. Male. The Attihawmeg. Lower jaw shortest; ridge + behind the eye becoming close to the orbit beneath the eye. + + _Salmo (Coregonus) Tullibee._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. 201. + Lakes near York Factory. "The Tullibee." Lower jaw shortest, + ridge behind continued distant from the orbit and produced + towards the nostrils. + + _Salmo Coregonus Harengus?_ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. 210. t. + 90, f. 2, a. b. Lower jaw longest, ridge behind the eyes + becoming rather nearer to, but distinct from, the orbit beneath. + River near York Factory. + + + PLANTS, + + _Named by_ SIR W. J. HOOKER, K.H., D.C.L., F.R.A. & L.S. &c. &c. &c. + + + _Plants collected on the Coast between YORK FACTORY and CHURCHILL, + and in the neighbourhood of Churchill._ + + + DICOTYLEDONES. + +RANUNCULACEĘ, _Juss._ + + 1. Anemone _Richardsoni_, Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. 6, Tab. 4, A. + + 2. Ranunculus _Lapponicus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 16. + +CRUCIFERĘ, _Juss._ + + 3. Nasturtium _palustre_, De Cand.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 39. + + 4. Arabis _petręa_, Lam.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 42. + + 5. Cardamine _pratensis_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 45. + + 6. Draba _hirta_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 52. + + 7. Draba _alpina_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 50. + +CARYOPHYLLEĘ, _Juss._ + + 8. Stellaria _Edwardsii_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 96, Tab. + 31. + + 9. Cerastium _alpinum_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 104. + + 10. Silene _acaulis_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 87. + + 11. Arenaria _peploides_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 102. + +LEGUMINOSĘ, _Juss._ + + 12. Phaca _astragalina_, De Cand.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 145. + + 13. Oxytropis _campestris_, De Cand.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 147. + + 14. Oxytropis _deflexa_, De Cand.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 148. + + 15. Hedysarum _Mackenzii_, Rich.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 155. + +ROSACEĘ, _Juss._ + + 16. Dryas _integrifolia_, Vahl.--Hook. Ex. Fl. Tab. 200, Fl. + Bor. Am. i. p. 174. + + 17. Rubus _acaulis_, Mich.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 182. + + 18. Potentilla _anserina_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 189. + + 19. Potentilla _pulchella_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 191. + + 20. Potentilla _nivea_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 195. + +ONAGRARIEĘ, _Juss._ + + 21. Epilobium _latifolium_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 205. + +SAXIFRAGEĘ, _Juss._ + + 22. Saxifraga _oppositifolia_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 242. + + 23. Saxifraga _cęspitosa_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 244. + + 24. Saxifraga _Hirculus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 252. + + 25. Saxifraga _tricuspidata_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 254. + +COMPOSITĘ, _Juss._ + + 26. Nardosmia _corymbosa_, Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 307 + (Tussilago corymbosa, Br.) + + 27. Achillęa _millefolium_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 318. + + 28. Chrysanthemum _arcticum_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 319. + + 29. Pyrethrum _inodorum_, Sm.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 320. + + 30. Senecio _aureus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 333. var. nanus. + + 31. Arnica _montana_, L.--[Greek: b]. _angustifolia_, Hook. Fl. + Bor. Am. i. p. 330. + +CAMPANULACEĘ, _Juss._ + + 32. Campanula _uniflora_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 29. + +ERICEĘ, _L._ + + 33. Ledum _palustre_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 44.--var. + [Greek: a]. _angustifolium_; and var. [Greek: b]. _latifolium_. + + 34. Azalea _procumbens_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 44. + + 35. Rhododendron _Lapponicum_, Wahl.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 43. + + 36. Vaccinium _Vitis Idęa_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 34. + +MONOTROPEĘ, _Nutt._ + + 37. Pyrola _rotundifolia_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 46. + +BORAGINEĘ, _Juss._ + + 38. Lithospermum _maritimum_, Lehm.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. + 86. + +SCHOPHULARINEĘ, _Juss._ + + 39. Castilleja _pallida_, Benth.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 105. + + 40. Bartsia _alpina_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 106. + + 41. Pedicularis _Wlassoviana_, Stev.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 107. + + 42. Pedicularis _Lapponica_, L.--Hook. Fl. Am. ii. p. 108. + + 43. Pedicularis _Sudetica_, Willd.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 109. + + 44. Pedicularis _flammea_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 110. + + 45. Pedicularis _euphrasioides_, Stev.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. + p. 108. + +PRIMULACEĘ, _Juss._ + + 46. Androsace _septentrionalis_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 119. + + 47. Primula _Hornemanniana_, Lehm.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 120. + +POLYGONEĘ, _Juss._ + + 48. Polygonum _viviparum_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 130. + +AMENTACEĘ, _Juss._ + + 49. Salix _Richardsoni_, Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 147, Tab. 182. + + 50. Salix _vestita_, Ph.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 152. + + 51. Salix _Arctica_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 152. + + 52. Betula _glandulosa_, Mx.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 156. + + 53. Betula _nana_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 156. + + + MONOCOTYLEDONES. + +MELANTHACEĘ, _Br._ + + 54. Tofieldia _palustris_, Huds.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 179. + +ORCHIDEĘ, _Juss._ + + 55. Platanthera _obtusata_, Lindl.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. + 196, Tab. 199. + + 56. Platanthera _rotundifolia_, Lindl.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. + p. 200, Tab. 201. + +CYPERACEĘ, _Juss._ + + 57. Carex _dioica_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 208. + + 58. Carex _fuliginosa_, Sternb. and Hoppe.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. + ii. p. 224. + + 59. Eriophorum _capitatum_, Host.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 231. + + 60. Eriophorum _polystachyon_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 231. + + + _Collected between CHURCHILL and REPULSE BAY._ + + + DICOTYLEDONES. + +RANUNCULACEĘ, _Juss._ + + 1. Ranunculus _affinis_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 12, Tab. 6 A. + +PAPAVERACEĘ, _Juss._ + + 2. Papaver _nudicaule_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 34. + + 3. Arabis _petręa_, Lam.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 42. + + 4. Cardamine _pratensis_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 45. + + 5. Draba _alpina_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 50. + + 6. Eutrema _Edwardsii_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 67. + +CARYOPHYLLEĘ, _Juss._ + + 7. Silene _acaulis_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 89. + + 8. Lychnis _apetala_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 94. + + 9. Stellaria _Edwardsii_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 96. Tab. 31. + + 10. Cerastium _alpinum_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 104. + +LEGUMINOSĘ, _Juss._ + + 11. Oxytropis _campestris_, De Cand.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 146. + + 12. Oxytropis _Uralensis_, De Cand.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 145. + + 13. Phaca _astragalina_, De Cand.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 145. + +ROSACEĘ, _Juss._ + + 14. Dryas _integrifolia_, Vahl.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 174. + + 15. Rubus _Chamęmorus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 183. + + 16. Potentilla _nana_, Lehm.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 194. + +ONAGRARIEĘ, _Juss._ + + 17. Epilobium _latifolium_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 205. + +SAXIFRAGEĘ, _Juss._ + + 18. Saxifraga _oppositifolia_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 242. + + 19. Saxifraga _cęspitosa_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 246. + + 20. Saxifraga _cernua_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 246. + + 21. Saxifraga _rivularis_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 246. + + 22. Saxifraga _Hirculus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 252. and + var. _bi-triflora_. + + 23. Saxifraga _tricuspidata_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 253. + +COMPOSITĘ, _Juss._ + + 24. Leontodon _Taraxacum_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 296. + + 25. Chrysanthemum _integrifolium_, Rich.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. + p. 319, Tab. 109. + + 26. Erigeron _uniflorus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 17. + +CAMPANULACEĘ, _Juss._ + + 27. Campanula _uniflora_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 29. + +ERICEĘ, _Juss._ + + 28. Andromeda _tetragona_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 38. + + 29. Ledum _palustre_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 44. var. + _angustifolium_. + +DIAPENSIACEĘ, _Lindl._ + + 30. Diapensia _Lapponica_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 76. + +BORAGINEĘ, _Juss._ + + 31. Lithospermum _maritimum_, Lehm.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 36. + +SCROPHULARINEĘ, _Juss._ + + 32. Pedicularis _hirsuta_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 109. + + 33. Pedicularis _Langsdorffii_, Fisch.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. + p. 109. + +PLUMBAGINEĘ, _Juss._ + + 34. Statice _Armeria_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 123. + +AMENTACEĘ, _Juss._ + + 35. Salix _Myrsinites_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 151. + + 36. Salix _Arctica_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 152. + + + MONOCOTYLEDONES. + +JUNCEĘ, _Juss._ + + 37. Luzula _hyperborea_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 188. + +CYPERACEĘ, _Juss._ + + 38. Carex _membranacea_,--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 220. + + 39. Eriophorum _polystachyon_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 231. + +GRAMINEĘ, _Juss._ + + 40. Alopecurus _alpinus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 234. + + 41. Hierochloe _alpina_, Roem. et Sch.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. + p. 234. + + 42. Colpodium _latifolium_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 238. + + 43. Poa _Arctica_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 246. + + 44. Festuca _brevifolia_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 250. + + 45. Elymus _arenarius_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 255. + + + _Plants collected between REPULSE BAY and CAPE LADY PELLY._ + + + DICOTYLEDONES. + +RANUNCULACEĘ, _Juss._ + + 1. Ranunculus _Lapponicus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 16. + +PAPAVERACEĘ, _Juss._ + + 2. Papaver _nudicaule_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 34. + +CRUCIFERĘ, _Juss._ + + 3. Cardamine _pratensis_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 44. + + 4. Draba _alpina_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 50. + + 5. Draba _stellata_, Jacq.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 53. + +CARYOPHYLLEĘ, _Juss._ + + 6. Stellaria _humifusa_, Rottb.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 97. + + 7. Cerastium _alpinum_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 104. + +LEGUMINOSĘ, _Juss._ + + 8. Oxytropis _Uralensis_, De Cand.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. + 145. + + 9. Oxytropis _campestris_, De Cand.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 147. + +ROSACEĘ, _Juss._ + + 10. Dryas _integrifolia_, Vahl.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 174. + + 11. Potentilla _nana_, Lehm.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 190. + +ONAGRARIEĘ, _Juss._ + + 12. Epilobium _latifolium_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 204. + +SAXIFRAGEĘ, _Juss._ + + 13. Saxifraga _oppositifolia_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 242. + + 14. Saxifraga _cernua_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 245. + + 15. Saxifraga _rivularis_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 246. + + 16. Saxifraga _nivalis_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 248. + + 17. Saxifraga _foliolosa_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 251. + + 18. Saxifraga _Hirculus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 252. + +COMPOSITĘ, _Juss._ + + 19. Leontodon _Taraxacum_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 296. + + 20. Pyrethrum _inodorum_, Sm.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 320. + + 21. Arnica _montana_, L.--[Greek: b]. _angustifolia_, Hook. Fl. + Bor. Am. i. p. 330. + + 22. Erigeron _uniflorus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 17. + +ERICEĘ, _Juss._ + + 23. Andromeda _tetragona_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 38. + +MONOTROPEĘ, _Nutt._ + + 24. Pyrola _rotundifolia_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 46. + +SCROPHULARINEĘ, _Juss._ + + 25. Pedicularis _hirsuta_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 109. + +AMENTACEĘ, _Juss._ + + 26. Salix _Arctica_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 152. + + + MONOCOTYLEDONES. + +JUNCEĘ, _Juss._ + + 27. Luzula _hyperborea_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 188. + +CYPERACEĘ, _Juss._ + + 28. Carex _dioica_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 208. + + 29. Carex _membranacea_, Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 220. + + 30. Carex _cęspitosa_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 217. + + 31. Carex _ustulata_, Wahl.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 224. + + 32. Eriophorum _capitatum_, Host.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 231. + +GRAMINEĘ, _Juss._ + + 33. Hierochloe _alpina_, Roem. and Sch.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. + p. 234. + + 34. Colpodium _latifolium_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 238. + + 35. Dupontia _Fischeri_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 242. + + 36. Poa _Arctica_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 246. + + 37. Poa _angustata_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 246. + + 38. Poa _alpina_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 246. + + + SPECIMENS OF ROCKS, + + _Described by JAMES TENNANT, ESQ., Professor of Mineralogy in + King's College, London._ + + +CAPE LADY PELLY, 67° 30' N. 88° W. + + Gneiss. + +NEAR POINT HARGRAVE, 67° 25' N. 87° 35' W. + + Gneiss. + +CAPE T. SIMPSON, 67° 22' N. 87° W. + + Gneiss with chlorite. + + Mica-slate. + + Mica-slate, with indistinct crystals of precious Garnets. + +ISTHMUS connecting Ross's Peninsula with the Continent. + + Felspar. + +SIMPSON'S PENINSULA, 68° 1/3' N. 88° 20' W. + + Compact argillaceous Limestone. + +A HILL on the western shore of Halkett's Inlet, 69° 14' N. 90° 50' W. + + Cellular Quartz, coloured by oxide of Iron. + + Mica-slate full of Garnets. + +HELEN ISLAND, one of the Harrison Group in Pelly Bay, 68° 54' N. 89° 52' +W. + + Felspar--red colour. + + Gneiss; the Felspar, Mica, and Quartz distinctly stratified. + + Gneiss; the Felspar red and greatly predominating. + +BEACON HILL, near Fort Hope, 66° 32' N. 86° 56' W. + + Granite. + + Ditto, with a small quantity of Mica; the Felspar red, and + constituting four-fifths of the mass. + + Gneiss, with veins of red Felspar running diagonally to the + stratification. + + Mica-slate. + +NORTH POLE RIVER. + + Mica-slate. + + Ditto, with veins of Quartz. + + Gneiss. + + Ditto, the Felspar red and greatly predominating. + + Ditto, the Felspar very friable. + + Quartz rock with Felspar. + + Argillaceous Limestone, compact. + +NORTH POLE LAKE, 66° 40' N. 87° 2' W. + + Gneiss. + + Mica-slate. + +REPULSE BAY, 66° 32' N. 86° 56' W. + + Quartz, coloured by oxide of Iron, and containing minute + particles of Gold. + +MELVILLE PENINSULA, 68° 27' N. 85° 24' W. + + Hornblende-slate. + +MUNRO INLET. + + Granite, the Felspar greatly predominating. + +ISLAND near the north point of Rankin's Inlet. + + Quartz, enclosing chlorite and Copper Pyrites. + + Talcose-slate. + + Carbonate and silicate of Copper, with Copper Pyrites on + argillaceous slate. + + Ditto, with a thin coating of green carbonate of Copper. + + Mica-slate. + + Chlorite-slate, friable. + + Ditto, with very thin veins of Calcareous Spar running + diagonally in stratification. + +ISLAND near the south point of Rankin's Inlet. + + Quartz and Iron Pyrites; the latter crystallized in cubes, the + faces of which are not above one-sixteenth of an inch. + + Quartz, with Iron Pyrites, and superficially coloured by oxide + of Iron. + + Hornblende-slate. + + Mica-slate. + + Chlorite-slate. + + + + + _Dip of the needle and force of magnetic attraction at various + stations along the west shore of Hudson's Bay, and at Fort Hope, + Repulse Bay._ + +------------+--------+-------+----------------+--------+-------+-----------+-----+--------- + Name of |Latitude|Longi- | Date. |Times. | Dip | Time |Therm|Variation + Station | N. |tude | | | Mean. | of 10 | |of + | | W. | | | | Vibra- | |Compass. + | | | | | | tions. | | +------------+--------+-------+----------------+--------+-------+-----------+-----+--------- + |d. m. s.|d. m.s.| |h. mi. |d. m.s.| Needle |d. m.|d. m. s. + | | | | | | No. 2 | | + | | | | | | deflected,| | + | | | | | | 20 deg. | | + | | | | | | from dip. | | +York Factory|57 0 2|92 26 0| 5 Nov. 1845 | 9 0 AM|83 47 0| |+31 0| + " |57 0 0|92 26 0| 8 " | 9 0 " |83 43 0| |+25 0| + " | " | " | 12 " | 2 30 PM|83 37 0| |+25 0| + " | " | " | 15 " | 9 0 AM|83 41 0| |+33 0| + " |57 0 0|92 26 0| 19 " | 9 0 " |83 42 5| |+25 0| + " | " | " | 22 " | 9 30 " |83 43 4| |+ 3 0| + " | " | " | 26 " | 9 30 " |83 48 7| |- 4 0| + " | " | " | 29 " | 9 30 " |83 42 5| |-13 0| + " | " | " | 3 Dec." | 9 30 " |83 54 2| |- 6 0| + " | " | " | 6 " | 9 30 " |83 43 2| |+ 8 0| + " | " | " | 10 " | 9 30 " |83 43 5| |-19 0| + " | " | " | 13 " | 9 30 " |83 48 2| | 0 0| +York Factory|57 0 0|92 26 0| 17 Dec. 1845 | 9 35 AM|83 40 9| |-11 0| + " | " | " | 20 " | 9 30 " |83 39 1| |-16 0| + " | " | " | 24 " |10 10 " |83 45 5| |-23 0| + " | " | " | 31 " |10 30 " |83 46 0| |+ 7 0| + " | " | " | 3 Jan. 1846 |10 30 " |83 46 1| |+20 0| + " | " | " | 7 " |10 30 " |83 47 0| |+ 5 0| + " | " | " | 10 " |10 30 " |83 45 5| |+ 7 0| + " | " | " | 14 " |10 30 " |83 43 9| |- 2 0| + " | " | " | 21 " |10 30 " |83 44 8| |-10 0| + " | " | " | 24 " |10 30 " |83 41 7| |+23 5| + " | " | " | 28 " |10 30 " |83 45 8| |+15 0| + " | " | " | 31 " {|10 0 AM|83 45 8| {|-15 0| + | | | {| 3 0 PM| | {|- 3 0| + " | " | " | 4 Feb." {|10 0 AM|83 50 5| {|-12 5| + | | | {| 3 0 PM| | {|-14 0| + " | " | " | 7 " |10 0 AM|83 45 5| |-11 5| +York Factory|57 0 0|92 26 0| 11 Feb. 1846 {|10 0 AM|83 44 8| {|- 5 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|-11 3| + " | " | " | 14 " {| 9 30 AM|83 41 6| |-23 0| + | | | {| 3 20 PM|83 38 1| |- 8 0| + " | " | " | 18 " {| 9 30 AM|83 36 6| {|+ 6 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|- 3 0| + " | " | " | 21 " {| 9 30 AM|83 41 0| {|-11 5| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+ 6 0| + " | " | " | 25 " {| 9 30 AM|83 40 9| {|-23 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|-10 5| + " | " | " | 28 " {| 9 30 AM|83 39 7| {|-13 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+ 4 0| + " | " | " | 4 Mar." {| 9 30 AM|83 44 1| {|+ 6 5| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+ 4 0| + " | " | " | 7 " {| 9 30 AM|83 42 5| {|+29 0| + | | | {| 3 40 PM| | {|+37 0| + " | " | " | 11 " {| 9 30 AM|83 44 6| {|+26 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+25 0| + " | " | " | 14 " {| 9 30 AM|83 40 9| {|+12 5| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+22 0| + " | " | " | 18 " {| 9 30 AM|83 39 6| {|+15 5| + | | | {| 3 40 PM| | {|+21 0| + " | " | " | 21 " {| 9 30 AM|83 37 7| {|- 2 5| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+ 5 8| + " | " | " | 25 " {| 9 40 AM|83 47 0| {|+30 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+30 0| + " | " | " | 28 " {| 9 35 AM|83 43 8| {|+ 8 5| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+ 8 0 +York Factory|57 0 0|92 26 0| 1 April 1846 {| 9 30 AM|83 42 8| {|+ 8 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+15 0| + " | " | " | 4 " {| 9 30 AM|83 45 2| {|+35 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+25 0| + " | " | " | 11 " {| 9 40 AM|83 40 6| {|+41 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+42 0| + " | " | " | 15 " {| 9 35 AM|83 35 7| {|- 3 5| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|- 6 0| + " | " | " | 18 " {| 9 30 AM|83 40 2| {|+ 9 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+29 0| + " | " | " | 22 " {| 0 30 AM|83 38 9| {|+45 0| + | | | {| 3 35 PM| | {|+40 0| + " | " | " | 25 " {| 0 0 AM|83 35 5| Ther. {|+43 0| + | | | {| | | +40° 0' {| | + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | 21s.--34 {|+32 0| + " | " | " | 29 " {| 9 45 AM|83 38 0| Ther. {|+42 0| + | | | {| | | +46° 0' {| | + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | 21s.--23 {|+43 0| + " | " | " | 2 May " {| 9 30 AM|83 38 5| {|+39 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+47 0| + " | " | " | 6 " {| 9 30 AM|83 37 9| Ther. {|+51 0| + | | | {| | | +66° 0' {| | + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | 21s.--31 {|+67 0| + " | " | " | 16 " {| 9 35 AM|83 39 0| Ther. {|+36 0| + | | | {| | | +43° 0' {| | + | | | {| 3 35 PM| | 21s.--13 {|+44 0| +Creek |58 2 0|92 20 | 20 June " | 3 45 PM|84 46 4| |+49 0| +Churchill |58 43 50|94 14 | 29 " {| 9 47 AM|84 50 8| Ther. {|+60 0| + | | | {| | | +61° 0' {| | + | | | {| 3 35 PM| | 21s.--14 {|+61 0| + " | " | " | 1 July " {|10 30 AM|84 43 9| {|+88 0| + | | | {| 3 0 PM| | {|+60 0| +Churchill |58 43 50|94 14 0| 4 July 1846 | 8 10 PM|84 44 5| |+41 0| +Knapp's Bay |61 9 42| " | 8 " |10 45 AM|86 18 3| {|+52 0| + | | | | | | {|+51 0| + " | " | " | 8 " | 3 0 PM| | | | + " | " | " | 12 " | 5 15 PM|87 16 3| {|+58 0| + | | | | | | {|+52 0| + " |64 6 0|88 0 0| 18 " | Noon. |86 36 5| Ther. {|+54 0| + | | | {| | | +54° 0' | | + | | | | | | 20s.--84 | | +Near Wager |65 10 0| " | 21 " | 4 5 PM|87 10 6| Ther. |+52 0| +River | | | {| | | +65° 0' | | + | | | | | | 21s.--03 | | + " |65 15 36|87 10 0| 22 " |11 35 AM| | |+52 0| +Repulse Bay |66 32 0| " | 27 " |11 15 AM|88 16 7| Ther. {|+55 0| + | | | {| | | +57° 0' {| | + | | | | | | 21s.--7 {|+57 0| +Flett's | | " | 28 " {| 2 40 PM| | {|+90 0| +Portage | | | {| 3 15 PM| | {|+82 0| +Descent | " | " | 31 " {| 6 20 PM| | |+53 0| +Portage | | | {| 6 50 PM| | | | +Cape Lady | " | " | 3 Aug. " | | | | | +Pelly | | | | | | | | +3 Miles N.W.| " | " | " | 5 30 PM|88 27 1| Ther. |+52 0| +of do. | | | {| | | +52° 0' | | + | | | {| | | 21s.--8 | | +Fort Hope |66 32 0|86 56 0| 18 Nov. " {|11 15 AM|87 51 5| {|-6 0|West + | | | {| 2 0 PM| | {|-5 0|62 50 30 + " | " | " | 21 " {| 9 45 AM|88 11 4| Ther. {|+6 0| + | | | {| | | +10° 5' {| | + | | | {| 2 15 PM| | 22s.--66 {|+10 0| +Fort Hope |66 32 0|86 56 0| 25 Nov. 1846 | 2 10 PM|88 8 9| {|-21 0| + | | | | | | {|-15 0| + " | " | " | 5 Dec. " {|10 0 AM|88 13 9| Ther. {|-13 0| + | | | {| | | +9° 0' {| | + | | | {| 2 0 PM| | 22s.--6 {|-16 0| + " | " | " | 12 " {|10 10 AM|88 13 3| {|+ 6 0| + | | | {| 2 5 PM| | {|+ 8 0| + " | " | " | 16 " {|10 0 AM|88 12 7| {| 0 0| + | | | {| 2 20 PM| | {|+ 2 0| + " | " | " | 23 " {|10 0 AM|88 16 3| {|- 7 0| + | | | {| 2 0 PM| | {|- 8 0| + " | " | " | 2 Jan. 1847 {|10 10 AM|88 17 5| {|-23 0| + | | | {| 2 30 PM| | {|-21 5| + " | " | " | 10 Feb. " {| 9 50 AM|88 10 9| {|-22 0| + | | | {| 2 10 PM| | {|-20 0| + " | " | " | 13 " {| 9 50 AM|88 13 5| {|-28 0| + | | | {| 2 10 PM| | {|-26 0| + " | " | " | 17 " {| 9 50 AM| | {|-36 0| + | | | {| 2 15 PM| | {|-33 0| + " | " | " | 24 " {| 9 55 AM| | {|-22 0| + | | | {| 2 10 PM| | {|-22 0| +York Factory|57 0 0|92 26 0| 18 Sept. " {| 9 15 AM|83 47 0| |+52 0| + | | | {| 3 10 PM| | | | + + + + + Fort Hope, Repulse Bay. + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for September, 1846._ + + +-----+-------------------------------+---------------------------------- +Day | Temperature of the Atmosphere | +of | taken eight times in twenty- | Prevailing Winds. +the | four hours. | +Month+----------+----------+---------+----------------------+----------- + |_Highest._|_Lowest._ | _Mean._ | _Direction._ |_Force._ +-----+----------+----------+---------+----------------------+----------- + | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | | | + 1 | +35 | +27 | +29.7 | E.S.E | 2-4 + 2 | +37 | +27 | +31 | E.S.E. | 5-4 + 3 | +36 | +25 | +31 | E.--Vble. | 9-1 + 4 | +34 | +28 | +30.3 | E. by S. | 8 + 5 | +42 | +26 | +32.7 | O.--N.N.W. | 0-7 + 6 | | | | N. | 6 + 7 | +31 | +25 | +27 | N. | 6 + 8 | +35 | +26 | +30.5 | N.N.W. | 6 + 9 | | | | N.N.W. | 6 + 10 | +32 | +30 | +31.3 | N.N.W.--O.--S.E. | 4-5 + 11 | +34 | +31 | +32.5 | E. by S. | 10-8 + 12 | | | | E. by S.--S. E. by E.| 9-5 + 13 | | | | S.W. by S.--S.W. | 5-9 + 14 | | | | | + 15 | +45 | +45 | +45 | S.S. | 4 + 16 | +34 | +25 | +28.7 | Vble.--O.--E. by N. | 1-2 + 17 | +32 | +24 | +28 | W. | 2-3 + 18 | +29 | +26 | +27.7 | N.W.--W.N.W. | 6-7 + 19 | +33 | +26 | +29.7 | W.N.W.--O.--E. | 9-0 + 20 | +32 | +24 | +28 | N.N.W. | 5-4 + 21 | +36 | +24 | +29.3 | N.--O.--E. | 0-3 + 22 | +31 | +23 | +27.7 | N. by W. | 5-6 + 23 | +28 | +16 | +22.3 | W.N.W. | 3-4 + 24 | +42 | +21 | +29.3 | Vble. | 1-0 + 25 | +30 | +16 | +24.3 | Vble. | 0-2 + 26 | +30 | +26 | +28 | E.N.E. | 8-9 + 27 | +26 | +24 | +25 | N. by W. | 5-6 + 28 | +26 | +20 | +22.7 | N.N.W. | 7-6 + 29 | +24 | +22 | +23 | W.N.W. | 4 + 30 | +22 | +18 | +19.7 | Vble.--S.E. by E. | 1-4 + ------ + 714.4 + ------ + +28.57 + + +----+------------------+------------------------------------------------ +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +the | attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. +Mon.+--------+---------+ + |_Barom._|_Thermo._| +----+--------+---------+------------------------------------------------ + 1 | | | c. c. o. Solar halo with parhelia. + 2 | | | c. c. c. + 3 | | | s. b. c. + 4 | | | c. c. c. p. of sleet. + 5 | | | c. c. o. Full moon. + 6 | | | p. s. o. + 7 | | | p. s. c. + 8 | | | c. p. s. + 9 | | | c. p. s. + 10 | | | c. b. c. o. + 11 | | | s. c. s. c. b. much drift. + 12 | | | o. c. c. [quarter moon symbol] last quarter. + 13 | | | b. c. + 14 | | | + 15 | | | c. p. s. + 16 | | | c. c. c. + 17 | | | b. c. + 18 | | | o. s. s. + 19 | | | s. s. + 20 | | | s. o. c. s. + 21 | | | c. c. c. + 22 | | | s. s. b. + | | | Aurora visible to the southward at 8 P.M. + 23 | | | b. b. c. + 24 | | | o. b. c. o. + 25 | | | c. o. + 26 | | | s. s. s. + 27 | | | s. drifting. + 28 | | | p. so. drifting. + 29 | | | b. c. + 30 | | | h. b. s. + + + + + FORT HOPE, REPULSE BAY. + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for October, 1846._ + + +------+--------------------------------+-------------------------------- + Day |Temperature of the Atmosphere | + of | taken eight times in | Prevailing Winds. + the | twenty-four hours. | +Month.| | + +----------+----------+----------+------------------------+------- + |_Highest._|_Lowest._ | _Mean._ | _Direction._ |_Force_ +------+----------+----------+----------+------------------------+------- + | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | | + 1 | +27 | +25 | +26 | Vble. S.W.--N.W. | 1-5 + 2 | +25 | +16 | +21 | N.W. | 8 + 3 | +24 | +10 | +18 | Vble. E. by S. | 1-5 + 4 | +38 | +38 | +38 | S.E. by E. | 4 + 5 | +37 | +30 | +33 | E. | 2-4 + 6 | +33 | +28 | +30.3 | N.E. | 3-4 + 7 | +30 | +28 | +29 | N.E. | 4-3 + 8 | +28 | +25 | +26.3 | N.--N.N.W. | 4-5 + 9 | +22 | +21 | +21.5 | N.W.--O.--Vble. | 3-0-2 + 10 | +27 | +26 | +26.5 | E. | 8-9 + 11 | +32 | +28 | +30 | N.E.--O. | 1-0 + 12 | +27 | +25 | +25 | N. by W. | 7-9 + 13 | +29 | +27 | +28.1 | N. by W. | 8-9 + 14 | +26 | +18 | +23.2 | N. | 10-11 + 15 | +12 | +10 | +11 | N. by W. | 10-11 + 16 | + 5 | 0 | + 2.6 | N.N.W. | 7-4 + 17 | + 3.5 | - 1 | + 0.8 | N.N.W. | 7-8 + 18 | + 6 | - 0.8 | + 1.7 | S.W.W.--W.N.W. | 4-6 + 19 | + 2 | - 4.8 | - 0.7 | N.--N.N.W. | 5-9 + 20 | + 3 | - 2.5 | - 0.3 | N.W. | 10-11 + 21 | - 2.8 | -10 | - 6 | N.W.--N.W. by N. | 7-11 + 22 | - 4.5 | -15 | - 8.1 | N.W. Vble. S.W. | 0-2 + 23 | + 5.3 | - 0.5 | + 3 | N.W. by W.--N.W. by N. | 3-5 + 24 | - 0. | - 6.4 | - 4.2 | N.W. by W.--N.W. | 4-5 + 25 | + 4.5 | - 6.2 | - 1.8 | N.W. by N. | 5 + 26 | - 7.3 | -10.2 | - 8.5 | N.W.--N.W. by N. | 4-6 + 27 | - 6. | -15 | -10.6 | N.W. by N.--N.W. | 0-3-5 + 28 | - 1.8 | -11.8 | - 6.4 | N.W. & N.N.W. | 0-4 + 29 | +10 | + 3.1 | + 8.4 | S.S.E. S.--calm. | 0-2-4 + 30 | +25.3 | +21 | +23.4 | S.S.E.--S.W.--W. by N. | 2-8 + 31 | +10 | 0 | + 5.2 | S. N.W. W.S.W. N.N.W. | 1-4 + | ------ | + | 389.4 | + | ------ | + | +12.56 | + + +----+--------------------+---------------------------------------------- +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. + +---------+----------+ + |_Barom._ |_Thermo._ | +----|---------+----------+---------------------------------------------- + 1 | | | s. ps. + 2 | | | b. c. drifting. + 3 | | | h. p. s. o. s. + 4 | | | h. p. r. + 5 | | | h. wet. + 6 | | | h. p. s. o. p. s. + 7 | | | h. p. s. + 8 | | | c. o. o. + 9 | | | h. c. c. + 10 | | | s. drifting. + 11 | | | s. s. s. + 12 | | | s. with much drift. + 13 | 29.338 | +49 | s. and much drift. + 14 | 29.431 | +46.3 | s. and drift. + 15 | 29.690 | +44 | s. much drift. + 16 | 29.605 | +30.5 | b. c.; drift; haze and some drift--parhelia; + | | | haze with scaly snow; faint aurora to the + | | | S. and S. by E. alt. 12°. + 17 | 29.719 | +32.8 | b. c., much drift; aurora to the S.S.E. + | | | parallel to the horizon; alt. 12°. + 18 | 29.641 | +31.5 | b. c., drift; cirrus; some faint streaks of + | | | aurora to the W. + 19 | 29.662 | +29 | b. c., drifting; solar halo with prismatic + | | | colours and parhelia; snow and much drift. + 20 | 29.842 | +29.5 | s. much drift. + 21 | 29.959 | +30.5 | b. c., much drift; at 8 p.m. several streaks + | | | of faint aurora extending across the zenith + | | | in a N.W. and S.E. direction; many rays in + | | | different parts of the heavens. + 22 | 29.828 | +28.5 | + 23 | 29.919 | +32 | f. o. f. o. s. o. s. b. c. f. s. + 24 | 29.974 | +31 | b. c. o. drifting. + 25 | 30.023 | +29 | o. drifting. + 26 | 30.062 | +29.3 | o. m. b. c. drifting. + 27 | 30.47 | +26.5 | b. c. m., some faint streaks of aurora in + | | | various parts of the sky bearing for the + | | | most part N.N.W. and S.S.E. + 28 | 30.505 | +26. | b. c., a few clouds near horizon; a very + | | | faint light yellow cloud aurora to the S.E. + | | | and N.W. + 29 | 30.119 | +30.3 | c. s. b. c. s. o. m. b. c., cirrus extending + | | | from S.S.E. to N.N.W., resembling much the + | | | aurora. Lunar halo. + 30 | 29.078 | +39.7 | o. m. o. s. b. c. o. drifting. + 31 | 30.094 | +34.3 | b. b. c. c., solar halo; cirrus; 120 lunar + | | | distances were observed from Jupiter and + | | | at Aquilę, E. and W. of the moon. + | | | Lunar halo diam. 40° or 50°. + + + + + FORT HOPE, REPULSE BAY. + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for November, 1846._ + + +-----+------------------------------+----------------------------------- + Day |Temperature of the Atmosphere | + of | taken eight times in | + the | twenty-four hours. | Prevailing Winds. +Month| | + +----------+---------+---------+--------------------------+-------- + |_Highest._|_Lowest._| _Mean._ | _Direction._ |_Force._ +-----+----------+---------+---------+--------------------------+-------- + | _deg.m._ |_deg.m._ |_deg.m._ | | + 1 | +18 | - 3.0 | + 8.5 | W.N.W. N.E. E. | 2-7 + 2 | +26.5 | +22.3 | +24.4 | S.E. S.E. by E. E. by W. | 2-5 + 3 | +27 | +25.5 | +26.3 | S.E. E.S.E. | 2-5 + 4 | +26 | +21.5 | +23.8 | S.E.S. S.S.E. | 3-5 + 5 | +22 | + 0 | +13.2 | N. by W. N.W. by W. | 2-7 + 6 | - .5 | - 9.5 | - 3.5 | W.N.W. | 3-7 + 7 | + 11.5 | + 6 | + 9.7 | N. by E. | 4-7 + 8 | + 11 | + 5 | + 8.5 | N. | 4-7 + 9 | +12.5 | + 9.5 | + 10.9 | E.N.E. N.E. | 3-10 + 10 | +28.2 | +22.5 | +25.6 | E.S.E. S. S.S.W. | 3-8 + 11 | +17 | + 2.5 | + 7.5 | N.W. N.N.W. W. by N. | 5-8 + 12 | + 2.3 | - 8.5 | - 1 | N.N.E. W. N.N.W. | 2-5 + 13 | - 6 | - 8 | - 6.8 | N. by W. N.N.W. | 4-8 + 14 | - 4.6 | - 8.7 | - 6.6 | N.N.W. N. N. by W. | 3-7 + 15 | + 4.5 | -10.5 | - 3.8 | Calm. Vble. E. | 0-4 + 16 | +17.3 | +15 | +16.3 | E. N.E. N. | 1-6 + 17 | + 7.5 | - 8 | + .25 | N. by W. | 4-6 + 18 | - 4 | - 9.2 | - 7.1 | N.W. by N. Calm S.W. | 0-2 + 19 | +21.7 | +18 | +20.61 | S.S.E. S.E. E. | 4-7 + 20 | +12 | - 8.8 | + 2.9 | Calm. S. by E. N. | 0-2 + 21 | + 4.5 | - 4.2 | - 0.9 | S. S.E. E. | 4-1 + 22 | - 3 | - 4.2 | - 3.6 | S. by E. W. N.W. | 2-6 + 23 | -18.5 | -22.5 | -19.77 | N. by W. N.N.W. | 3-5 + 24 | -20.5 | -25.2 | -22.54 | N.N.W. | 5-1 + 25 | -14.5 | -24.5 | -20.06 | N. by E. N.W. N.W. by W. | 1-3 + 26 | -17.5 | -23.5 | -20.7 | N. | 6-9 + 27 | -11.8 | -15.5 | -13.6 | N. by W. | 9-10 + 28 | - 5.4 | - 8.5 | - 6.6 | N. by W. | 7-9 + 29 | -16.5 | -25.3 | -20.3 | N.N.W. W.N.W. | 6-3 + 30 | -17.5 | -24.4 | -21. | W. W.N.W. N.W. | 6-3 + | ------- | + | +20.59 | + | ------- | + | + 0.68 | + + +----+------------------+------------------------------------------------ +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. + +--------+---------+ + |_Barom._|_Thermo._| +----+--------+---------+------------------------------------------------ + 1 | 30.011 | +35 |b. c. o. s. and drift. + 2 | 29.715 | +38 |o. m. s. o. m. o. s. + 3 | 29.623 | +38.7 |o. m. s. o. s. + 4 | 29.624 | +39.5 |o. m. b. c. o. m. + 5 | 29.796 | +41 |o. m s. b. c. b. drifting. A faint ray of + | | | aurora to the S. E. extending vertically + | | | towards the zenith. + 6 | 30.009 | +38.8 |b. c. drifting. Some faint beams of aurora + | | | extending from S.W. to N.W., alt. 60°; one ray + | | | to the S.E. pointing towards the zenith. + 7 | 29.894 | +37.3 |o. c. o. drifting. + 8 | 30.1 | +39.5 |o. drifting. + 9 | 39.996 | +35.2 |o. s. drifting thick. + 10 | 29.598 | +40.2 |o s. o. b. c. o. much drift. + 11 | 29.728 | +38 |o. s. o. m. b. c. drifting. + 12 | 30.163 | +38.1 |b. c. m. b. drifting. + 13 | 30.214 | +34.9 |b. m. b c. m. much drift. + 14 | 30.39 | +36.2 |b. m. much drift. Solar halo and parhelia with + | | | prismatic colours; hazy near horizon; a faint + | | | beam of aurora to the westward directed toward + | | | the zenith; drifting. + 15 | 30.239 | +37 |o.m. o. s. + 16 | 29.963 | +38 |o.s. b. c. m. drifting. + 17 | 30.102 | +37 |o.s. b. c. m. drifting. Three beams of aurora + | | | pointing towards the zenith; two of them + | | | bearing N.N.W., and the other S.E. + 18 | 30.006 | +33.7 |b. c. fo. o. m. At 9 A.M. there was a very red + | | | sky to the N. westward; sound heard at a + | | | great distance. + 19 | 29.573 | +36.7 |o. s. b. c. drifting. + 20 | 29.420 | +36.8 |o. s. m. o. s. f. b. c. m. At 7 h. 30 m. a + | | | faint aurora extending from W. to S.E., + | | | alt. 20°; motion rapid; no prismatic colours. + 21 | 29.409 | +37 |o. s. b. c. s. o. f. s. b. m. s. + 22 | 29.615 | +39 |b. c. Some faint streaks of aurora, most of them + | | | to the S. eastward, and pointed towards the + | | | horizon. + 23 | 29.918 | +33.7 |b. m. b. c. Some faint rays of aurora visible + | | | this morning at 5 h. 30 m. in different parts + | | | of the heavens; drifting. + 24 | 30.408 | +33.7 |b. c. drifting. + 25 | 30.573 | +30.8 |b. b. m. Two faint beams of aurora bearing + | | | W.N.W. and pointing towards the zenith; + | | | altitude of lower limb 30°. + 26 | 30.606 | +32 |b. m. b. much drift. + 27 | 29.555 | +31 |b. m. o. s. drifting. Door drifted up. + 28 | 29.41 | +26.6 |o. m. b. c. s. o. s. drifting. + 29 | 29.894 | +27.5 |b. c. drifting. + 30 | 30.354 | +26 |b. c. m. drifting. + + + + + FORT HOPE, REPULSE BAY. + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for December, 1846._ + + +-----+-------------------------------+---------------------------------- +Day | Temperature of the Atmosphere | +of | taken eight times in | Prevailing Winds. +the | twenty-four hours. | +Month+----------+----------+---------+------------------------+--------- + |_Highest._|_Lowest._ | _Mean._ | Direction. | Force. +-----+----------+----------+---------+------------------------+--------- + | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._| | + 1 | -24 | -27 | -25.875 | Calm. N.E. N. | 0-3 + 2 | -26.7 | -30 | -28.1 | N.E. Calm. N. | 1-0 + 3 | -24.8 | -28.5 | -26.4 | N. by W. | 1-4 + 4 | -24.8 | -28 | -29.97 | N.W. by W. S.S.W. | 4-0 + 5 | -17.3 | -21 | -19.7 | Calm. S. by E. S.S.E. | 0-2 + 6 | - 6.5 | -11 | - 9.14 | E. by S. N.E. N. | 5-2 + 7 | -16.5 | -24 | -19.7 | N. | 5-7 + 8 | -19.5 | -25.6 | -22.61 | N. | 9-8 + 9 | +14 | -15 | + .03 | N.N.W. N.N.E. N.E. | 11-5 + 10 | +17 | +14.8 | +15.74 | N.E. by N. N.E. E. | 4-6 + 11 | +12.7 | + 9.8 | +11.6 | N. by E. N.N.W. N.W. | 4-1 + 12 | + 4 | - 6 | + .74 | S. S.S.E. Calm. | 0-3 + 13 | -13 | -17 | -14.93 | N. N. by W. | 4-1 + 14 | -19 | -23 | -20.94 | Calm. Vble. | 0-2 + 15 | - 9 | -19 | -16.55 | N.N.W. N. by W. | 1-4 + 16 | 0 | - 3 | - 1.64 | N. E.N.E. Calm. Vble. | 0-1 + 17 | - 5 | - 9.6 | - 6.05 | Vble. W.N.W. | 1-2 + 18 | - 6 | - 8.5 | - 7.04 | N. by W. W. Vble. | 2-1 + 19 | -14.2 | -20 | -17.4 | N. by W. N.N.W. | 5-4 + 20 | - 8.7 | -13 | -10.56 | S. by W. N. by W.N. | 1-4 + 21 | -20.7 | -32.3 | -24.83 | N.W. Vble. N. | 1-2 + 22 | -30.5 | -36.5 | -33.4 | W. Calm. N. by E. | 0-2 + 23 | -21.4 | -26 | -23.3 | N.N.E. N.E.N. | 0-1 + 24 | -31 | -35.3 | -33.13 | N. | 7-10 + 25 | -36 | -38 | -36.83 | N. by W. | 10-8 + 26 | -34 | -38 | -36.46 | N. by W. N. | 8-11 + 27 | -30 | -30 | -30 | N. | 10-11 + 28 | -30.8 | -34.8 | -33.01 | N. N. by W. | 6-4 + 29 | -24.5 | -40 | -35 | N.W. by W. Vble. N.N.W.| 0-5 + 30 | -25 | -32.3 | -29.63 | N. | 6-9 + 31 | -23 | -32.5 | -29.25 | N. by W. Vble. N. | 1-7 + | | | ------- | | + | | | 597.43 | | + | | | ------- | | + | | | - 19.27 | | + + +----+------------------+------------------------------------------------ +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. + +--------+---------+ + |_Barom._|_Thermo._| +----+--------+---------+------------------------------------------------ + 1 | 30.452 | +18.75 |b. c. + 2 | 30.237 | +19.6 |b. c. b. c. m. Lunar halo. + 3 | 30.886 | +16.3 |b. c. b. c. m. + 4 | 30.013 | +17 |b. c. m. + 5 | 29.778 | +17.6 |b. c. m. parhelia with prismatic colours; + | | | aurora visible to the south in two arches + | | | arising from near the horizon to the zenith. + 6 | 29.480 | +27.5 |o. s. b. c. + 7 | 29.764 | +26 |b. m. c. drifting. + 8 | 30.039 | +23 |b. c. drift. + 9 | 29.974 | +22 |s. o. drifting. + 10 | 29.892 | +28.3 |s. o. b. c. o. s. drifting. + 11 | 29.759 | +32 |o. s. m. + 12 | 30.016 | +26.6 |o. m. s.b.m. + 13 | 30.36 | +31 |b. m. b. c. The sky to the north had a + | | | beautiful lake coloured tint at sunset; the + | | | most brilliant display of aurora I have + | | | observed this winter, the centre being towards + | | | the true south, and gradually rising from an + | | | altitude of 12° to 70° or 80°. It was of a + | | | pale yellowish green colour. Horizontal needle + | | | not affected. + 14 | 30.473 | +26 |b. c. m. Some faint beams of aurora in + | | | different parts of the heavens. A very faint + | | | aurora to the southward. + 15 | 30.37 | +27 |b. m. b. c.o. A very faint aurora; centre true + | | | south. + 16 | 30.186 | +30.7 |o. m. + 17 | 30.205 | +27.6 |o. m. b. m. Wind variable from N. to E.; + | | | faint aurora to the S.; alt. 10°; centre + | | | S.S.W. 30°. + 18 | 30.274 | +29.3 |o. b. c. m. Aurora faint to the S. by W. + 19 | 30.245 | +27.3 |b. c. m. drifting. + 20 | 30.259 | +28 |b. c. o. s. + 21 | 30.268 | +29 |b. m. Arch of aurora across zenith nearly east + | | | and west; brightest at western extremity. + 22 | 30.264 | +22.3 |b. c. b. m. + 23 | 30.168 | +25.3 |b. m. b. c. b. m. s. Spiculę of snow falling. + | | | Lunar halo faint. + 24 | 30.065 | +23.6 |b. m. much drift. + 25 | 29.996 | +22 |b. m. much drift. + 26 | 29.83 | +20 |b. c. m. much drift. + 27 | 29.523 | +15.5 |b. c. m. much drift. + 28 | 29.536 | +14.3 |b. m. b. drifting. + 29 | 29.603 | +14.3 |b. b. c. A faint halo, centre S., alt. about + | | | 20°; wind variable from N. to W. by S.; cirrus + | | | clouds; halo round moon. + 30 | 29.577 |+11.6 |b. c. drifting; much drift. + 31 | 29.564 |+15.3 |b. c. + + + + + FORT HOPE, REPULSE BAY. + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for January, 1847._ + + +------+------------------------------+---------------------------------- +Day |Temperature of the Atmosphere | +of | taken eight times in | Prevailing Winds. +the | twenty-four hours. | +Month.+----------+---------+---------+---------------------------+------ + |_Highest._|_Lowest._| _Mean._ | Direction. |Force. +------+----------+---------+---------+---------------------------+------ + | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._|_deg.m._ | | + 1 | -23.5 | -32 | -26.96 |N.N.W. N.W. by W. N. by W. | 1-6 + 2 | -29.5 | -33.5 | -31.8 |N.N.W. N. by W. N.W. | 2-5 + 3 | -30.3 | -32 | -31.4 |N. by W. Calm. N.N.E. | 0-1 + 4 | -31 | -34 | -32.82 |N. Calm. N. | 0-2 + 5 | -27.5 | -30 | -28.61 |N. ½ W. | 5-8 + 6 | -26.5 | -31 | -28.3 |N.N.W. | 6-8 + 7 | -40 | -42 | -40.9 |N.W. Calm. W. N.W.N. | 0-1 + 8 | -44 | -47 | -46.7 |N.W. N.N.W. N. by W. | 1-7 + 9 | -38 | -40 | -39 |N. | 10-11 + 10 | -12 | -17 | -14.5 |N.N.W. | 10-12 + 11 | -10 | -10 | -10 |N. by W. | 7-11 + 12 | -12 | -16 | -14 |N. by W. | 7-8 + 13 | -28.5 | -33.5 | -30.8 |N.N.W. N. by W. | 6-7 + 14 | -33.8 | -36.3 | -35.1 |N. by W. N. ½ W. N. by W. | 7-5 + 15 | -38 | -39.5 | -38.7 |N. by W. N.W. N.N.W. | 2-5 + 16 | -39.3 | -41 | -37.07 |N. by W. N.N.W. N. by W. | 2-6 + 17 | -38 | -41 | -39.6 |N. by W. | 7-8 + 18 | -37 | -40 | -38.95 |N.W. by N. N. by W. | 2-4 + 19 | -25 | -31 | -30.6 |N.N.W. N.N.W. | 9-11 + 20 | -14 | -20 | -17 |N.N.W. | 8-10 + 21 | -20.5 | -26.5 | -23.4 |N. by W. N.N.E. N. | 2-9 + 22 | -14 | -26 | -18.87 |N.W. N.N.W. | 6-11 + 23 | -10 | -13 | -11.2 |N.N.W. | 9-11 + 24 | -13 | -13 | -13 |N.N.W. | 9-11 + 25 | -26.5 | -32.5 | -29.25 |N.N.W. | 4-7 + 26 | -31.5 | -37 | -34.47 |N. Calm. Vble. N. | 0-1 + 27 | -29 | -35 | -32.05 |N. N. by W. | 1-2 + 28 | -33.3 | -35.5 | -34.65 |N. by W. | 6-7 + 29 | -36 | -42.7 | -39.25 |N. by W. W.N.W. N.W. | 4-1 + 30 | -24.7 | -36.5 | -28.64 |S. by W. Vble. E. | 1-5 + 31 | -27.5 | -35 | -31.5 |N. by W. | 4-7 + | | |-------- | | + | | | 909 | | + | | |-------- | | + | | | -29.32 | | + + + +----+------------------+----------------------------------------------- +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. + +--------+---------+ + |_Barom._|_Thermo._| +----+--------+---------+----------------------------------------------- + 1 | 29.908 | +17 | b. c. b. c. s. drifting. + 2 | 30.128 | +16 | b. m. b. Faint aurora, centre S.W. by S., + | | | alt. 15°; drifting; some streaks of aurora + | | | to the southward pointing to the zenith. + 3 | 30.134 | +18.5 | b. c. b. Much refraction; thermometer in house + | | | +11°; a beam of aurora to the south pointing + | | | to the zenith. + 4 | 30.023 | +15.6 | b. b. Hills much refracted; aurora faint; + | | | centre of arch S. by W.; alt. 10°; aurora in + | | | a narrow line parallel to horizon, alt. 4°, + | | | extent 70°, centre south. + 5 | 29.93 | +14.6 | b. c. m. drifting. + 6 | 30.04 | +14.6 | b. m. drifting. A faint aurora extending from + | | | S.S.E. across the zenith. + 7 | 29.861 | +12.6 | b. c. m. Mercury froze after two hours' + | | | exposure. + 8 | 29.8 | +11 | b. b. drifting. + 9 | 29.974 | | Much drift; could not get out to see + | | | thermometer, door being drifted up. + 10 | 29.139 | + 6 | o. o. Much drift; obliged to take the + | | | thermometers into the house, as the pillars + | | | of snow on which the posts were placed were + | | | nearly all blown away. + 11 | 29.193 | +10.5 | o. b. m. Much drift; a beam of aurora S.E.; + | | | alt. 25°. + 12 | 29.309 | +14.5 | b. m. Much drift; very faint aurora; centre + | | | W. by N.; alt. 10°. + 13 | 29.549 | +12.3 | b. m. drifting; a very faint aurora, centre + | | | S.S.W., alt. 16°; extent 60° or 70°. + 14 | 29.588 | +13 | b. c. m. drift; arch of aurora faint, + | | | alt. 11°, centre S.S.W., extent 90°. + 15 | 29.608 | + 7.6 | b. m. c. Streams of bright light shooting from + | | | the sun to the alt. of 5°. + 16 | 29.67 | + 7 | b. c. b. drifting, stratus; arch of aurora + | | | faint, centre south, alt. 18°, extent 60°. + | | | Centre S.S.W., alt. 12°, extent 90°. + 17 | 29.887 | +13 | b. m. drifting. Aurora visible, faint but + | | | brightest to the westward; centre S., + | | | alt. 60°. + 18 | 29.245 | + 6 | b. c. b. c. m. A very faint arch of aurora + | | | from the N.W. by N. extending across zenith. + 19 | 29.662 | + 7 | m. o. much drift; door drifted up. + 20 | 29.472 | +11 | o. q. much drift. + 21 | 29.60 | + 9.5 | b. m. much drift. + 22 | 29.445 | + 8 | b. m. o. s. o. m. q. s. o. q. drifting. + 23 | 29.273 | + 9.5 | o. m. much drift. + 24 | 29.366 | +10 | o. q. gale all night; much drift. + 25 | 29.83 | + 8 | b. m. drifting; solar halo with parhelia. + 26 | 30.035 | + 6.3 | b. A faint arch of aurora across zenith S.W. + | | | and N.E. + 27 | 29.911 | + 4.6 | b. c. b. c. s. o. m. o. s. + 28 | 29.908 | + 7.3 | b. m. drifting. Very cold to the sensation' + | | | spiculę of snow falling; a broad band of + | | | aurora, the lower edge having a reddish or + | | | lake tint, running parallel to the horizon; + | | | alt. 2°, centre S.W., extent 70°; some + | | | beams of aurora S.E. pointing towards + | | | the zenith. + 29 | 29.954 | + 7.3 | b. m. + 30 | 29.737 | + 5.6 | o. b. c. m. s. b. c. s. + 31 | 29.714 | + 8 | b. c. m. Cirrus; drifting. + + + + + FORT HOPE, REPULSE BAY. + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for February, 1847._ + + +------+-------------------------------+--------------------------------- +Day | Temperature of the Atmosphere | +of | taken eight times | Prevailing Winds. +the | in twenty-four hours. | +Month.+----------+----------+---------+------------------------+-------- + |_Highest._| _Lowest._| _Mean._ | _Direction._ |_Force._ +------+----------+----------+---------+--------------------------------- + | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._| | + 1 | -29.8 | -38.5 | -33.6 | N.N.W. N.W. W. | 6-1 + 2 | -30.8 | -37.3 | -33.73 | N.W. Vble. W. Calm. N. | 0-1 + 3 | -29 | -35 | -31.53 | S.W. Calm. Vble. | 0-1 + 4 | -19 | -26.5 | -22.67 | Calm. Vble. Calm. | 0-1 + 5 | -14 | -20 | -16.71 | N.W. by S. | 4-6 + 6 | -14.7 | -22.5 | -17.5 | N. | 3-6 + 7 | -22.5 | -27 | -25.16 | Calm. N. by W. Calm. | 0-1 + 8 | -22.3 | -30.5 | -26.25 | N. by W. N.N.W. | 1-4 + 9 | -20 | -25.5 | -21.65 | N.W. N.W. by W. | 1-6 + 10 | -20 | -27 | -23.35 | N. Vbl. N. by W. | 0-2 + 11 | - 8.7 | -18.3 | -11.64 | W.N.W. N. by W. | 1-6 + 12 | -18 | -23.5 | -20.25 | N. by W. | 8-6 + 13 | -35.3 | -38 | -36.83 | N.N.W. N. by W. | 7-2 + 14 | -26 | -36.5 | -31 | N.W. | 6-3 + 15 | -37.5 | -42 | -39.83 | N. | 4-7 + 16 | -36.5 | -42 | -39.14 | N. by W. | 7-5 + 17 | -35.5 | -40.5 | -38.4 | N. N. by W. N.W. | 7-3 + 18 | -27.5 | -34.5 | -30.57 | N. N. by W. N.N.W. | 1-7 + 19 | -22 | -32.5 | -27.57 | N. Vble. S.S.E. | 4-1 + 20 | -22.5 | -27.5 | -25.3 | N. by W. N. N.N.W. | 7-4 + 21 | -19.5 | -27 | -22.83 | N.N.W. N. S.E. | 3-1 + 22 | -13 | -26.5 | -18.85 | N.N.W. | 1-5 + 23 | -23.5 | -31.5 | -26.57 | N.N.W. N. | 3-1 + 24 | -23 | -34.5 | -27.43 | W. W. by N. N. N.W. | 1-4 + 25 | - 9.5 | -27.5 | -20.2 | W. Calm. Vble. | 1-0 + 26 | - 9.3 | -22 | -13.5 | S.E. E. by N. N. | 1-2 + 27 | -24 | -27.5 | -25.54 | N.W. by N. N.N.W. | 4-6 + 28 | -34.5 | -40 | -39.2 | N.N.W. N.W. by W. | 6-3 + | | | ------ | | + | | | 746.85 | | + | | | ------ | | + | | | -26.68 | | + + ++------------------+---------------------------------------------------- +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. + +--------+---------+ + |_Barom._|_Thermo._| +----+--------+---------+------------------------------------------------ + 1 | 29.901 | + 7.6 | b. m. b.q. drifting. + 2 | 30.023 | + 5.3 | b. b. + 3 | 30.593 | + 2.6 | b. c. o. cirrus and cirro-stratus. + 4 | 30.219 | + 5 | b. c. + 5 | 30.339 | + 5.6 | b. c. q. much refraction; drifting. + 6 | 30.18 | +11. | b. c. m. b. c. drifting. + 7 | 30.??4 | +12. | b. c. cirrus; cloudy near horizon. + 8 | 30.418 | +10.3 | b. m. spiculę. much refraction. + 9 | 30.432 | +12. | o. m. b. c. m. drifting; solar halo with + | | | parhelia; a faint arch of aurora. + 10 | 30.065 | + 8.3 | b. c. cirrus; some faint beams of aurora south + | | | and south-south-west (say south-west). + 11 | 29.865 | +12.6 | b. c. m. o. s. b. c. s. drifting. + 12 | 29.71 | +12. | b. m much drift. + 13 | 29.644 | +10.5 | b. m. b. drifting. + 14 | 29.65 | +10. | b. m. b. + 15 | 29.816 | +12.6 | b. b. m. b. drifting. + 16 | 29.899 | +13.3 | b. m. b. much drift. + 17 | 29.84 | + 7.6 | b. m. b. drifting. + 18 | 29.869 | + 7.3 | b. c. o. b. c. m. much drift. + 19 | 29.9 | + 6.7 | b. c. s. o. m. Solar halo with prismatic + | | | colours and parhelia. + 20 | 29.9 | + 8 | b. m. b. drifting. + 21 | 30.329 | + 7 | b. c. b. c. m. + 22 | 30.276 | + 9.6 | b. m. b. c. s. o. s. b. c. s. drifting. + 23 | 30.459 | + 9.3 | b. m. b. c. cirrus; Venus visible for the + | | | first time, the horizon having been too hazy + | | | to see her sooner. + 24 | 30.326 | + 7 | b. + 25 | 30.008 | + 6 | b. b. c. much refraction. + 26 | 30.221 | + 8.3 | b. m. c. b. c. s. + 27 | 30.146 | +12 | b. m. c. b. c. s. b. c. m. drifting along + | | | the ground. + 28 | 30.073 | +11 | b. m. drifting. + + + + + Fort Hope, Repulse Bay, + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for March, 1847._ + + +------+-------------------------------+--------------------------------- +Day | Temperature of the Atmosphere | +of | taken eight times | Prevailing Winds. +the | in twenty-four hours. | +Month.+----------+----------+---------+--------------------------+------ + |_Highest._| _Lowest._| _Mean._ | _Direction._ |Force. +------+----------+----------+---------+--------------------------+------ + | _deg. m._| _deg. m._|_deg. m._| | + 1 | -30.5 | -45 | -37.5 | N. by W. Chble. N.W. | 0-2 + | | | | by N. | + 2 | -30.5 | -40.5 | -35.4 | N.W. by N. N.N.W. | 2-4 + 3 | -30 | -37 | -33.7 | N.W. by N. N.N.W. | 4-7 + 4 | -27 | -38 | -32 | N. by W. N.W. by N. | 4-7 + 5 | -26 | -33 | -28.4 | N. by W. N.W. by N. | 8-6 + 6 | -27 | -33 | -29.4 | N. by W. | 8-4 + 7 | -27.5 | -37 | -33 | N.N. ½ E. | 7-5 + 8 | -25 | -31.5 | -27.5 | N. N. by W. N.N.W. | 7-9 + 9 | -20 | -30.5 | -25.3 | N.N.W. N.W. by N. | 4-2 + 10 | -21 | -33.5 | -27.2 | N.W. N.N.W. | 1-4 + 11 | -10.7 | -27.5 | -20 | N.W. by N. N. by W. | 1-3 + 12 | -19.5 | -30.5 | -23.7 | N.N.W. N. N. by W. | 8-10 + 13 | -15 | -19.5 | -16.5 | N.N.W. | 10-12 + 14 | -13.5 | -15 | -14.5 | N. by W. | 11-7 + 15 | -11 | -19 | -14.2 | N. N.N.W. | 8-5 + 16 | -7.7 | -19 | -11.7 | N.W. by N. N. by W. | 3-6 + 17 | -24 | -30 | -26.5 | N. W.N.W. W. | 1-6 + 18 | -18.7 | -37.5 | -29.1 | Calm. S.S.E. W. | 0-6 + 19 | -14 | -29.5 | -21.4 | W. Vble. | 2-1 + 20 | -23.5 | -32.5 | -29.1 | N.N.W. N. N. by W. | 6-4 + 21 | -23 | -29.5 | -25.9 | W.N.W. | 10-7 + 22 | -16 | -27 | -21.6 | N W. by N. W. | 6-1 + 23 | -16 | -33 | -22.6 | N.W. Chble. N. by W. | 1-6 + 24 | -29 | -33.5 | -30.9 | N. by W. N.N.W. | 9-7 + 25 | -27 | -35 | -30.4 | N. by W. N.N.W. | 7-9 + 26 | -26.5 | -35.5 | -30.6 | N. by W. | 6-8 + 27 | -24.5 | -34 | -28.1 | N. by W. N.N.W. | 6-8 + 28 | -26 | -35 | -30.2 | N. by W. | 2-7 + 29 | -22 | -33 | -26.37 | N.N.W. N. W.N.W. | 8-5 + 30 | -15 | -32 | -20.54 | N.W. N. by W. | 2-6 + 31 | -6 | -14 | -8.6 | N.N.W. N.W. by N. | 7-6 + | | | ------ | + | | | 811.91 | + | | | ------ | + | | | -28.1 | + + +----+----------------------+-------------------------------------------- +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. + +----------------------+ + | _Barom._ | _Thermo._ | +----+----------+-----------+-------------------------------------------- + 1 | 30.152 | + 4.3 | b. b. + 2 | 30.296 | + 4 | b. + 3 | 30.268 | + 4.6 | b. m. drifting. The wind between noon and + | | | 2 P.M. went round for a few minutes, and + | | | then went back to its old direction. + 4 | 30.399 | + 6.3 | b. m. drifting. + 5 | 30.492 | + 7 | b. m. b. c. m. much drift. + 6 | 30.63 | +11.3 | b. c. m. drifting. + 7 | 30.514 | +10.5 | b. m. drifting. + 8 | 30.232 | + 7.6 | b. c. m. much drift. + 9 | 30.194 | + 8 | b. b. c. + 10 | 30.179 | + 4 | b. b. c. cirrus. + 11 | 30.305 | + 4.7 | b. + 12 | 30.449 | + 9.7 | b. m. much drift. + 13 | 30.089 | + 7 | b. q. thick drift. + 14 | 30.07 | + 5 | b. m. q. b. c. m. much drift. + 15 | 30.886 | +13 | b. c. m. q. b. c. m. o. m. drifting. + 16 | 29.578 | +12 | o. s. b. c. s. b. c. drifting. + 17 | 29.814 | + 6.6 | b. c. b. q. drifting. + 18 | 29.99 | + 4.6 | b. c. m. Solar halo with prismatic + | | | colours; drifting. + 19 | 30.001 | + 5.6 | b. m. b. c. cirrus. + 20 | 29.569 | + 8 | b. m. b. c. m. + 21 | 29.372 | + 3 | o. s. o. m. b. m. drifting. + 22 | 29.673 | + 5 | b. c. m. q. cirrus. + 23 | 29.823 | + 6.7 | b. c. m. o. s. Spiculę; halo with + | | | prismatic colours; drifting. + 24 | 29.854 | + 3.7 | b. m. b. c. m. much drift; door + | | | drifted up. + 25 | 29.899 | + .7 | b. m. c. m. much drift; door drifted up. + 26 | 30.196 | + 1.3 | b. c. m. drifting. + 27 | 30.046 | - .3 | b. m. b. c. m. drifting. + 28 | 30.161 | + 1 | b. m. c. drifting. + 29 | 30.142 | + 2 | b. m. drifting. + 30 | 30.182 | + 3.5 | b. c. m. o. m. drifting. + 31 | 30.867 | +10.6 | b. c. m. b. c. s. o. s. drifting. + + + + + FORT HOPE, REPULSE BAY. + --_Abstract of Meterological Journal for April, 1847._ + + ------+---------------------------------+------------------------------ + Day | Temperature of the Atmosphere | + of | taken eight times in twenty-four| Prevailing Winds. + the | hours. | + Month.+-----------+----------+----------+------------------------------ + |_Highest._ |_Lowest._ | _Mean._ | _Direction._ | Force. + ------+-----------+----------+----------+----------------------+------- + | _deg. m._ |_deg. m._ |_deg. m._ | | + 1 | -6.5 | -18.3 | -11.57 | N.W. by W. W. by N.| 3-6 + 2 | -0.5 | -21 | -9.03 | W. N.N.W. N.W. | 2-4 + 3 | +8 | -23.5 | -6.7 | Vble. Calm. | 1-0 + | | | | | + 4 | 0 | -13 | -4.5 | N.W. by N. N. | 2-1 + 5 | | | -10 | N. by W. | 5 + 6 | +11 | -20 | -5.3 | S. | 4 + 7 | +18 | -9 | +3.67 | | + 8 | +20 | -2 | +8.3 | | + 9 | +2 | -12 | -5 | N.N.W | + 10 | +19 | -15 | +3.66 | E. | + 11 | +10 | -15 | -1.6 | E. | + 12 | +16 | -17 | -2 | S. | + 13 | +21 | -11 | +5.3 | N.N.W. | + 14 | +15 | 0 | +6.6 | W. | + 15 | -7 | -17 | -11.3 | N.N.W. | 9 + 16 | -10 | -19 | -15.3 | N. | 9 + 17 | -8 | -22 | -16.3 | N. | + 18 | -2 | -20 | -12 | N.W. | + 19 | -5 | -25 | -13.7 | N.N.W. | + 20 | -5 | -20 | -12.67 | N. | + 21 | 0 | -22 | -10.3 | N.N.W. | + 22 | -8 | -22 | -13.3 | N. by W. | + 23 | +17 | -12 | +1.67 | Vble. | 2 + 24 | -6 | -10 | -4.3 | N.W. | + 25 | +7 | -2 | +1 | N. | + 26 | +5 | -10 | -1.6 | N.N.W. | + 27 | +8 | -5 | +2 | N.N.W. | + 28 | +10 | -3 | +4 | N.N.W. | + 29 | +11 | -1 | +4 | N.N.W. | + 30 | +20 | -1 | +9.6 | N. | + | +----------+ | | + | | 122.57 | | | + | +----------+ | | + | | -3.95 | | | + + +----+------------------+------------------------------------------------ +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. + +--------+---------+ + |_Barom._|_Thermo._| +----+--------+---------+------------------------------------------------ + 1 | 29.83 | + 10 | b. c. m. drifting. + 2 | 29.709 | | b. b. c. + 3 | 29.708 | + 4 | b. b. c. Barometer not registered after this. + | | | Thermometer with colourless ??? rose to 5° + | | | only, although freely exposed to the sun's + | | | rays. At 8 P.M. a faint aurora of an orange + | | | colour; centre south; alt. 5° + 4 | | | o. m. b. c. s. o.s. + 5 | | | o. s. + 6 | | | + 7 | | | + 8 | | | + 9 | | | + 10 | | | + 11 | | | + 12 | | | + 13 | | | much drift all day. + 14 | | | much drift. + 15 | | | + 15 | | | much drift and snow. + 17 | | | + 18 | | | thick drift and snow. Some partridges seen. + 19 | | | + 20 | | | drifting. + 21 | | | + 22 | | | + 23 | | | drifting thick. + 24 | | | + 25 | | | + 26 | | | snow and drift. + 27 | | | drifting. + 28 | | | drifting. + 29 | | | drifting. + 30 | | | drifting. + + + + + FORT HOPE, REPULSE BAY. + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for May, 1847._ + + +------+-----------------------------------+----------------------------- +Day | Temperature of the Atmosphere | +of | taken three times in | Prevailing winds +the | twenty-four-hours. | +Month.| | + +------------+-----------+----------+----------------------+------ + | _Highest._ | _Lowest._ | _Mean._ | _Direction._ |Force. +------+------------+-----------+----------+----------------------+------ + | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | | + 1 | +20 | + 4 | +11.6 | W. | + 2 | +20 | + 5 | +12 | N. | + 3 | +17 | + 4 | + 9.3 | N. by W. | + 4 | +10 | + 0 | + 3.3 | N.N.W. | + 5 | +10 | - 4 | + 3.67 | N.N.W. | + 6 | +20 | 0 | + 9.3 | Vble. Calm. | 1-2 + 7 | +24 | - 1.5 | +10.5 | S.E. E. | 2 + 8 | +23 | + 6 | +14.8 | Vble. E. S.S.E. | 1-3 + 9 | +26 | +16 | +18.5 | S.E. E. | 2-6 + 10 | +19.5 | +12 | +15.67 | E. by S. E.N.E. | 6-10 + 11 | +32.3 | +18.5 | +24.6 | S. by E. S.W. W.N.W. | 1-6 + 12 | +25.5 | +10 | +15.93 | N.W. | 2-6 + 13 | +25 | + 4.5 | +11.5 | W. | 7-6 + 14 | +33 | +18 | +23.3 | S.W. | + 15 | +17 | +10 | +12.67 | N. | + 16 | +15 | + 9 | +11.3 | N.W. | + 17 | +20 | +15 | +17 | W.N.W. | + 18 | +30 | +15 | +21.67 | N.W. | + 19 | +40 | +18 | +27.6 | S. | + 20 | +37 | +21 | +27.3 | N. | + 21 | +28 | +18 | +21.3 | N. | 11 + 22 | +22 | +16 | +18.3 | N. | 10 + 23 | +25 | +16 | +21 | N. | 10 + 24 | +33 | +26 | +28.66 | N.E. | + 25 | +43 | +23 | +30.67 | N.E. by N. | + 26 | +34 | +24 | +27.67 | N.N.E. | + 27 | +28 | +21 | +24.66 | N. | + 28 | +25 | +16 | +20 | N.W. | + 29 | +45 | +18 | +28 | S. | + 30 | +43 | +24 | +30.67 | S.E. | + 31 | +23 | +18 | +21 | N. | + | | +----------+ | + | | | 553.44 | | + | | +----------+ | + | | | +17.88 | | + + +----+--------------------+---------------------------------------------- +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | + +---------+----------+ Remarks on the Weather, &c. + |_Barom._ |_Thermo._ | +----+---------+----------+---------------------------------------------- + 1 | | | Newman's improved Cistern Barometer used. + | | | { Correction for capacities -1/34 + 2 | | | { Neutral point -30.302 + | | | { Capillary action +.042 + | | | { Temperature +60° + 3 | | | A snow bird was seen. + 4 | | | drifting. + 5 | | | drifting. + 6 | | | b. c. + 7 | | | o. s. b. c. s. + 8 | | | o. s. An inch of snow fallen. + 9 | | | o. s. o. o. + 10 | | | o. s. and drifting thick. + 11 | | | o. s. pools of water. Beautiful evening, + 12 | | | b. c. drifting. + 13 | | | b. c. o. m. + 14 | | | + 15 | | | fine weather. + 16 | | | thick weather. + 17 | | | + 18 | | | + 19 | | | + 20 | | | + 21 | | | Much snow drift. + 22 | | | Much snow and snow drift. + 23 | | | Much snow drift. + 24 | | | + 25 | | | + 26 | | | + 27 | | | Snow and drift until evening. + 28 | | | + 29 | | | + 30 | | | Cloudy with snow. + 31 | | | Strong gale with drift. + + + + + Fort Hope, Repulse Bay. + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for June, 1847._ + + +------+-----------------------------------+----------------------------- +Day | Temperature of the Atmosphere | +of | taken three times in | Prevailing winds +the | twenty-four-hours. | +Month.+------------+-----------+----------+---------------------+------- + | _Highest._ | _Lowest._ | _Mean._ | _Direction._ |Force. +------+------------+-----------+----------+---------------------+------- + | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | | + 1 | +25 | +12 | +19.3 | S. | + 2 | +35 | +17 | +25.3 | N. | + 3 | +26 | +14 | +20 | N. | + 4 | +32 | +14 | +21.7 | N.W. | + 5 | +29 | +18 | +22 | N.W. | + 6 | +43 | +21 | +28.3 | Vble. | + 7 | +28 | +18 | +22 | N. | + 8 | +30 | +16 | +22.7 | N. | + 9 | +38 | +24 | +30.6 | N.N.W. and Vble. | 3-5 + 10 | +39 | +26 | +31.3 | N. and N.N.E. | 1-3 + 11 | +34 | +28.5 | +30.8 | Vble. N. | 1-6 + 12 | +35 | +26.5 | +30.7 | N. by W. | 6-8 + 13 | +37 | +27 | +32.3 | N. | 5-7 + 14 | +40 | +29.5 | +34 | N. by E. | 2-4 + 15 | +43.5 | +26 | +35.5 | E. Vble. S.W. | 2-3 + 16 | +39.5 | +36 | +37.3 | N. N.W. | 4-2 + 17 | +37 | +30.5 | +34 | E. by S. S.E. | 3-1 + 18 | +38.5 | +32.5 | +34.67 | E. N.E. | 2-5 + 19 | +34.5 | +31 | +32.5 | N.N. by W. | 7-9 + 20 | +37 | +33.5 | +34.8 | W.N.W. | 10-11 + 21 | +45.5 | +33 | +37.66 | W. by N. S.E. | 9-6-5 + 22 | +40.5 | +32 | +35.1 | N. N.N.W. N.W. | 8-7 + 23 | +42 | +32.5 | +36.2 | W. N.W. | 6-4-2 + 24 | +46.5 | +33 | +38.73 | Calm. Vble. S.E. | 0-2 + 25 | +36.7 | +32.5 | +34.23 | E. by S. | 3-4 + 26 | +37 | +31.3 | +33.66 | E.S.E. E. by N. N.E.| 6-9 + 27 | +34.3 | +31 | +32.6 | N.W. W.N.W. | 10-11 + 28 | +34 | +31.5 | +32.83 | W. W. by N. W.N.W. | 9-8 + 29 | +37.3 | +33.7 | +35 | N.W. N.W. by W. | 10-8-0 + 30 | +41 | +32.3 | +35.6 | W.N.W. N.W. N. | 7-8 + | | +----------+ | + | | | 942.51 | | + | | +----------+ | + | | | +31.38 | | + + +----+------------------+----------------------------------------------- +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. + +--------+---------+ + |_Barom._|_Thermo._| +----+--------+---------+----------------------------------------------- + 1 | | | + 2 | | | + 3 | | | A strong gale. + 4 | | | + 5 | | | + 6 | | | + 7 | | | + 8 | | | + 9 | | | + 10 | | | b. c. m. Arrived at the house from our journey + | | | at 8h. 20m. A.M. by watch, or 7h. 20m. + | | | true time. + 11 | | | b. c. + 12 | | | o. s. + 13 | | | o. s. + 14 | | | o. p. s. + 15 | | | b. c. p. sleet. + 15 | | | b. c. + 17 | | | b. c. p. o. r. First rain this spring. + 18 | | | o. r. o. f. o. r. + 19 | | | s. o. r. o. + 20 | 29.480 | +37 | p. r. b. c. b. c. p. r. b. c. + 21 | 29.817 | +49 | b. c. q. o. r. + 22 | 30.289 | +40 | o. b. c. p. s. Showers of snow and sleet during + | | | the night. + 23 | 30.14 | +40.3 | o. b. c. Saw sun at midnight, lower limb + | | | touching the high ground. + 24 | 30.147 | +46.5 | b. c. + 25 | 30.04 | +40 | o. o. f. A few flakes of snow falling. + 26 | 29.68 | +38.7 | o. s. o. w. s. Half inch of snow during the + | | | night. Wet snow. + 27 | 29.273 | +37 | o. s. o. p. s. q. From 6 to 8 inches of snow + | | | during the night. + 28 | 29.39 | +35.6 | b. c. q. o. s. q. + 29 | 29.488 | +40 | o. p. s. q. b. c. q. b. c. p. s. + 30 | 29.61 | +38 | o. s. b. c. p. s. q. b. c. p. r. q. Wet snow. + + + + + Fort Hope, Repulse Bay. + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for July, 1847_ + + +------+-----------------------------------+----------------------------- +Day | Temperature of the Atmosphere | +of | taken three times in | Prevailing winds +the | twenty-four-hours. | +Month.+------------+-----------+----------+----------------------+------ + | _Highest._ | _Lowest._ | _Mean._ | _Direction._ |Force. +------+------------+-----------+----------+----------------------+------ + | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | | + 1 | +39 | +29.3 | +33.6 |N.N.W. N. by W. N. | 4-6 + 2 | +38 | +31.3 | +34.6 |N. N.W. by N. N.W. | 7-4 + 3 | +46.5 | +32 | +38.17 |W. Calm. | 7-6-0 + 4 | +35.5 | +33 | +34.1 |N.E. | 6-5-4 + 5 | +45.5 | +35 | +39.8 |W. | 5-3-6 + 6 | +46 | +34 | +39.17 |W.N.W. N. by W. Chble.| 7-0 + 7 | +49 | +38 | +43 |E. by S. S.E. Calm. | 2-4-0 + 8 | +51 | +35 | +42 |E. E.S.E. E. | 3-5-1 + 9 | +48.7 | +32.3 | +38.7 |N. Vble. E. | 5-2 + 10 | +41 | +35 | +37.17 |E.S.E. | 5-6 + 11 | +36 | +33 | +34.5 |E. by N. Calm. | 4-3-0 + 12 | +39.3 | +35 | +36.7 |N. N. by E. | 3-5-6 + 13 | +38 | +33.5 | +35.6 |N. by W. N. | 8-9 + 14 | +38 | +33.7 | +35.23 |N. | 9 + 15 | +42.5 | +34 | +37.2 |N. by W. | 9-10 + 16 | +39 | +35.3 | +37.7 |N. Calm. |10-7-0 + 17 | +46 | +36 | +42.5 |N.N.W. W. by N. | 8-5-3 + 18 | +43 | +35 | +39.5 |Vble. Calm. | 3-4-0 + 19 | +47.3 | +36 | +41.6 |N.W. | 5-6-3 + 20 | +55.5 | +41 | +46.9 |N.N.W. N.W. Calm. | 3-5-0 + 21 | +57 | +44 | +49.17 |N. Vble. N.N.W. | 4-1-3 + 22 | +47 | +40 | +42.5 |Calm. N.N.W. | 0-6-5 + 23 | +49.3 | +38.5 | +43.26 |N.N.W. N. N. by W. | 8-7-8 + 24 | +48 | +36.5 | +41.9 |N. N.W. by N. | 9-7-3 + 25 | +52 | +36 | +43.16 |N.W. Calm. | 6-4-0 + 26 | +43 | +38 | +40.2 |S.S.E. E.S.E. E. | 2-6 + 27 | +51.5 | +40 | +44.17 |N.E. Calm. | 5-3-0 + 28 | +60 | +45 | +51.8 |W. W.N.W. W. by S. | 2-3-2 + 29 | +53.5 | +47 | +50.2 |N. | 4-3-1 + 30 | +55 | +38.3 | +46.6 |W. by N. N. | 4-8-10 + 31 | +48 | +37.5 | +42.5 |N. by W. | 3-8-5 + | | +----------+ | + | | | 1285.4 | | + | | +----------+ | + | | | +41.46 | | + + +----+----------------------+-------------------------------------------- +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. + +----------+-----------+ + | _Barom._ | _Thermo._ | +----+----------+-----------+-------------------------------------------- + 1 | 29.786 | +39.83 | b. c. p.s. a little frost during the night. + 2 | 29.838 | +35.5 | b. c. + 3 | 29.986 | +46 | b. c. a beautiful night. + 4 | 29.864 | +40.3 | o. p. o. f. p. r. o. sleet. + 5 | 30.015 | +43 | b. c. + 6 | 30.124 | +42 | b. c. b. c. q. Ther. at midnight +35°; coat + | | | of ice on pools where there is snow. + 7 | 30.216 | +49.5 | b. c. + 8 | 30.185 | +46 | b. c. + 9 | 30.216 | +40.3 | o. b. c. o. + 10 | 30.024 | +42 | o. b. c. o. + 11 | 29.828 | +42 | p. r. f. o. f. w. o. Heavy rain during + | | | the night; wet fog and showers of rain. + 12 | 29.802 | +40 | o. f. p. r. o. w. f. + 13 | 29.938 | +39 | o. f. p. r. o. f. o. p. r. q. + 14 | 29.968 | +41.3 | r. o. b. c. o. + 15 | 29.905 | +41.7 | o. b. c. o. r. A great quantity of water + | | | coming down N. Pole River this morning; + | | | sleet. + 16 | 29.865 | +44.2 | p. w. s. q. o. s. b. c. Snow showers all + | | | night; ther. at 6 p.m. +45°. + 17 | 29.902 | +47.2 | o. b. c. at 5 p.m. Ther. at +54°. + 18 | | | b. c. b. c. o. + 19 | 29.716 | +48 | b. c. q. + 20 | 29.714 | +56 | b. c. + 21 | 29.776 | +54.5 | b. c. + 22 | 29.794 | +46.5 | o. b. c. p. r. b. c. + 23 | 29.791 | +46 | d. r. b. c. p. r. b. c. + 24 | 29.858 | +45.5 | b. c. + 25 | 29.967 | +53 | b. c. + 26 | 29.815 | +47.2 | b. c. b. c. q. + 27 | 29.917 | +49 | b. c. + 28 | 30.038 | +53.5 | b. c. + 29 | 30.113 | +56.8 | b. c. + 30 | 30.017 | +49 | b. c. p.r. The barometer fell some + | | | hundredths lower than when registered at + | | | 6 A.M., but immediately began to rise as + | | | soon as the wind changed to the north. + 31 | 30.102 | +51.5 | b. c. + + + + + FORT HOPE, REPULSE BAY. + -- _Abstract of Meteorological Journal for August, 1847._ + + +------+-----------------------------------+------------------------ +Day | Temperature of the Atmosphere | + of | taken three times in | Prevailing Winds. +the | twenty-four hours. | +onth. +------------+-----------+----------+--------------+--------- + | _Highest._ | _Lowest._ | _Mean._ | _Direction._ | _Force._ +------+------------+-----------+----------+--------------+--------- + | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | | + 1 | +52 | +40 | +44.8 | N. | 4-6-3 + 2 | +56 | +40 | +47.7 | N.N.W. | 6-2-1 + 3 | +49 | +44.5 | +46.2 | N.W. N.N.W. | 6-7-5 + 4 | +41 | +34.7 | +36.9 | N.N.W. N. | 9-8 + 5 | +54 | +34 | +62.5 | N. N. by W. | 7-6-3 + 6 | +50 | +46.5 | +49.8 | Vble. W.S.W. | 3 + 7 | +59.3 | +43.5 | +49.3 | S.W. Calm. | 4-5-0 + 8 | +49.5 | +42 | +45.5 | Vble. N.W. | 1-2-6 + 9 | +44.5 | +37 | +39.83 | N. N.W. | 8-6-4 + 10 | +37.5 | +35 | | N. | 9-10-8 + + + +----+----------------------+-------------------------------------------- + Day| Barometer and | + of | Thermometer | + the| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. +mont+----------+-----------+ + | _Barom._ | _Thermo._ | +----+----------+-----------+-------------------------------------------- + 1 | 30.054 | +56 | b. c. + 2 | 30.057 | +56.5 | b. c. + 3 | 30.051 | +48.5 | b. c. q. p. r.; at 5 P.M. a heavy squall + | | | and showers of rain. + 4 | 29.93 | +41.5 | b. c. q. p. s. + 5 | 30.169 | +46.5 | b. c.; frost last night. + 6 | 30.124 | +54 | b. c. Ther. at 5 P.M. +62°--; all the large + | | | and deep lakes still covered with ice. + 7 | 30.035 | +61 | b. c. q. + 8 | 29.806 | +54 | o. p. r. + 9 | 29.882 | +47 | b. c. q. + 10 | 29.732 | +43 | o. r. s. s. b. c. + + + + + _Figures and Letters used for denoting the state of the + Weather and the force of the Wind, as recommended by + Captain (now Admiral) Beaufort._ + + 0--Calm. + 1--Light air. + 2--Light breeze. + 3--Gentle breeze. + 4--Moderate breeze. + 5--Fresh breeze. + 6--Strong breeze. + 7--Moderate gale. + 8--Fresh gale. + 9--Strong gale. + 10--Whole gale. + 11--Storm. + 12--Hurricane. + + b.--Blue sky. + c.--Cloudy. + d.--Drizzling rain. + f.--Foggy. + g.--Gloomy dark weather. + h.--Hail + l.--Lightning + m.--Misty hazy atmosphere. + o.--Overcast. + p.--Passing temporary showers. + q.--Squally. + r.--Rain--continued rain. + s.--Snow. + t.--Thunder. + u.--Ugly, threatening appearance of the weather. + v.--Visibility of distant objects whether the sky be cloudy or not. + w.--Wet dew. + . --Under any letter indicates an extraordinary degree. + + +MARCHANT SINGER & CO., PRINTERS, INGRAM-COURT, FENCHURCH-STREET + + + + + LIBRARY OF + AUSTRALIAN TRAVELS, &c. + PUBLISHED BY T. AND W. BOONE, + 29, NEW BOND STREET. + + Now ready, in 2 vols. 8vo. with numerous Plates, some coloured, + NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION + INTO + CENTRAL AUSTRALIA, + + BY ORDER OF HER MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT, + DURING THE YEARS 1844, 5, 6, + + With Notices of the Colony of South Australia. + + BY CAPTAIN CHARLES STURT, + LATE 39TH REGT. + COLONIAL TREASURER, AND + AUTHOR OF "TWO EXPEDITIONS INTO SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA." + + +The character of the far Interior of Australia had long been a most +interesting geographical problem, many imagining the centre to be +occupied by a large inland sea, others conjecturing that it was an arid +desert, which opinion was further strengthened by Mr. Eyre's +unsuccessful endeavour to penetrate higher than the 29th degree of +latitude in his expedition during the years 1840 and 1. Captain Sturt, +so appropriately denominated the "Father of Australian Discovery," in +consequence of being the first traveller to explore the rivers Murray, +Murrumbidgee, Bogan, and Castlereagh, volunteered to conduct a party +into the interior to determine this important question. With the +approbation of Lord Stanley, the Colonial Minister, he accordingly +started in the year 1844, and, after a series of unparalleled +privations, succeeded in reaching the centre of the Continent in a line +direct north of Adelaide. The journal of this perilous Expedition gives +an account of the remarkable Stony Desert, the bed of Lake Torrens, +descriptions of the Natives and their villages, and the discovery of +several small rivers, &c.; added to which, his observations and +collections on the Natural History have since been arranged by R. Brown, +Esq. and J. Gould, Esq. in the form of an Appendix. + +"The details of this romantic and perilous Expedition are replete with +interest. From the numerous and lengthened expeditions he has +undertaken, and the general intelligence and scientific skill he brings +to bear upon the question, we know of no recent traveller in Australia +whose opinions are entitled to more weight.--The portion of the work +which refers to the Colony of South Australia is particularly valuable +to intending emigrants."--_Morning Herald._ + + + + + JOURNALS OF EXPEDITIONS OF DISCOVERY + IN + NORTH-WEST AND WESTERN AUSTRALIA, + DURING THE YEARS 1837, 1838, and 1839, + Under the Authority of her Majesty's Government. + + With Observations on the Agricultural and Commercial Capabilities + and Prospects of several newly-explored fertile Regions, including + + AUSTRALIND, + and on the Moral and Physical Condition of the Aboriginal + Inhabitants, &c. &c. + + BY GEORGE GREY, ESQ., LATE CAPTAIN 83RD REGT. + FORMERLY GOVERNOR OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA, NOW GOVERNOR OF NEW ZEALAND. + + _With Two large Maps by J. Arrowsmith, and numerous Illustrations, + some coloured, in 2 vols. 8vo._ + + +"It is not with the slightest hope of satisfying curiosity, or to +anticipate the interest which the public in general, and geographers +especially, always feel in enterprises of this nature, but merely to +give such a sketch of the principal features of the expedition us may +serve to direct those who are desirous of obtaining information +respecting a portion of this remarkable country--hitherto only visited +by Tasman, Dampier, Baudin, and King, and never before, we believe, +penetrated by an European--to look forward to the detailed journals of +the spirited officers who had the conduct of the expedition." +--_From Geographical Transactions._ + +A great portion of the country described in this Journal has never +before been visited by any European. The Eastern coast of Short's Bay +was for the first time seen and explored during the progress of these +expeditions. + +"We have rarely seen a more interesting book; it is full of splendid +description and startling personal adventure; written in a plain, manly, +unaffected style."--_Examiner._ + +"It is impossible to have perused these highly interesting and important +volumes without being inspired with feelings of warm admiration for the +indomitable perseverance and heroical self-devotion of their gallant and +enterprising author. Setting aside the vastly important results of +Captain Grey's several expeditions, it is hardly possible to conceive +narratives of more stirring interest than those of which his volumes are +for the most part composed."--_United Service Gazette._ + +"We have not read such a work of Travels for many years; it unites the +interest of a romance with the permanent qualities of an historical and +scientific treatise."--_Atlas._ + +"We recommend our readers to the volumes of Captain Grey, assuring them +they will derive both amusement and instruction from the +perusal."--_Times._ + +"This is a work deserving high praise. As a book of Travels it is one of +the most interesting we remember to have met with."--_Westminster +Review._ + +"A book which should be in every lending library and book-club." +--_Englishman's Magazine._ + +"The contents of these interesting volumes will richly repay an +attentive perusal." +--_Emigration Gazette._ + +"These narratives are replete with interest, and blend information and +amusement in a very happy manner."--_Australian Magazine._ + + + + +Just published, in 1 vol. 8vo. with Plates and Woodcuts, + +JOURNAL +OF AN +OVERLAND EXPEDITION IN AUSTRALIA, +FROM +MORETON BAY TO PORT ESSINGTON. + +_A distance of upwards of 3000 miles._ + +BY DR. LUDWIG LEICHHARDT. + +N.B. A large 3 sheet Map of the Route by J. Arrowsmith is published, and +to be had separately in a Case, price 9_s._ + + +OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. + +"A work of unquestionable merit and utility, and its author's name will +justly stand high upon the honourable list of able and enterprising men, +whose courage, perseverance, and literary abilities have contributed so +largely to our knowledge of the geography and productions of our distant +southern colonies."--_Blackwood's Mag._ + +"For the courage with which this lengthened and perilous journey was +undertaken, the skill with which it was directed, and the perseverance +with which it was performed, it is almost unrivalled in the annals of +exploring enterprise. It richly deserves attention."--_Britannia._ + +"The narrative in which he relates the results of this remarkable +journey, and the extraordinary fatigues and privations endured by +himself and his fellow travellers, is not merely valuable for its facts, +but full of absorbing interest as a journal of perilous +adventures."--_Atlas._ + +"The volume before us comprises the narrative of one of the most +remarkable enterprises ever planned by man's sagacity and executed by +man's courage and endurance. To our minds there is in every point of +view an inexpressible charm in such a book as this. It not merely +narrates to us the opening of a new material world for human enterprise +and scientific investigation, but it makes more clearly known to us the +wondrous powers and capacities of human nature. We recommend it to our +readers as a work scarcely less remarkable for the extraordinary +enterprise recorded in it, than for the simplicity and modesty with +which it is related."--_Morning Herald._ + +"The result of his enterprise was thoroughly successful. It has added +not a little to our existing stock of knowledge in the various +departments of natural history, and has made discovery in districts +before untrodden, of an almost boundless extent of fertile +country."--_Examiner._ + +"The most striking feature in the expedition is its successful +accomplishment, which is of itself sufficient to place Dr. L. in the +first rank of travellers. How much Dr. L. has added to geographical +discovery can only be felt by an examination of the admirable maps which +accompany the volume. These have been deduced on a large scale from the +traveller's sketches by Mr. Arrowsmith, and engraved with a distinctness +of execution, and a brief fulness of descriptive remark which leave +nothing to be desired."--_Spectator._ + + + + + _Lately published, in 2 vols. 8vo. cloth, with 8 Maps and Charts, + and 57 Illustrations_ + BY COMMAND OF THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY. + + DISCOVERIES IN AUSTRALIA + OF THE + VICTORIA, ADELAIDE, ALBERT, AND FITZROY RIVERS, + AND EXPEDITIONS INTO THE INTERIOR; + DURING THE + VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BEAGLE, + BETWEEN THE YEARS 1837 AND 1843: ALSO + + A NARRATIVE OF THE VISITS OF H.M.S. BRITOMART, + COMMANDER OWEN STANLEY, R.N., F.R.S. + _TO THE ISLANDS IN THE ARAFURA SEA_. + BY CAPT. J. LORT STOKES, R.N. + + +"The whole narrative is so captivating, that we expect to find the work +as much in demand at circulating libraries as at institutions of graver +pretensions."--_Colon. Gaz._ + +"We have to thank Capt. Stokes for a most valuable work, one that will +place his name by the side of Vancouver, Tasman, Dampier, and +Cook."--_New Quar. Review._ + +"The science of Navigation owes a deep debt to Captain Stokes. The +information contained in the present volumes must render them an +invaluable companion to any ship performing a voyage to that part of the +world."--_Foreign Quarterly Review._ + +"Every part of it is full of matter, both for the general and scientific +reader. With the acts of throwing the lead, taking angles, &c. lively +anecdotes and pleasing ideas are constantly associated, so that we very +much doubt whether any reader will lay aside the book, large as it is, +without regret. In some parts you have all the breathless excitement of +a voyage of discovery, and sail up new rivers, and explore new lands, +while elsewhere your thoughts are directed to the tracks of commerce and +political speculation. Altogether the work is a charming specimen of +nautical literature, written in a pure, flexible, terse, and elegant +style, and bespeaks everywhere in the author a mind endued with very +high moral and intellectual qualities."--_Fraser's Mag._ + +"While these volumes must prove of great value to the maritime +profession, to the geographer, and to emigrants, they cannot fail to be +perused with interest by readers in general."--_Athenęum._ + +"We cannot, in noticing these two ably written and interesting volumes, +insist too strongly upon their importance alike to the mariner, the +geographer, and the general reader. The author is a man of considerable +merit, a shrewd observer of men and things, and who was fitted by nature +and inclination to conduct these researches into the vast unknown +continent whither he proceeded with enterprise and spirit. These volumes +contain a fund of interesting matter, and we warmly recommend this +valuable addition to our literary and scientific stores to the attention +of the public."--_Sentinel._ + +"The contents of these volumes, rich, varied and full of interest, will +be their best recommendation. For scientific accuracy, they will be +highly valued by the geographer and navigator, while they will be read +for mere amusement by the public at large."--_Sunday Times._ + + + + + THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO. + + _By Permission of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty._ + Now ready, in 2 vols. 8vo. with numerous Maps, Plates, and Woodcuts, + + NARRATIVE + OF THE + SURVEYING VOYAGE OF H.M.S. FLY, + UNDER THE COMMAND OF + CAPTAIN BLACKWOOD, R. N. + IN TORRES STRAIT, NEW GUINEA, AND OTHER ISLANDS + IN THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO; + + TOGETHER + WITH AN EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR + OF THE + EASTERN PART OF THE ISLAND OF JAVA, + DURING THE YEARS 1842 TO 1846. + + BY J. BEETE JUKES, M. A. + NATURALIST TO THE EXPEDITION. + + + OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. + +"We must congratulate Mr. Jukes on the value of his publication. +Scientific without being abstruse, and picturesque without being +extravagant, he has made his volumes a striking and graceful addition to +our knowledge of countries highly interesting in themselves, and +assuming hourly importance in the eyes of the people of +England."--_Blackwood's Magazine._ + +"To transcribe the title-page of this book is sufficient to attract +public curiosity towards it--to peruse the book itself is to be rewarded +with the knowledge of a mass of information in which complete confidence +can be reposed, for, from the first page to the last, it is apparent +that the main object with Mr. Jukes is to tell all that he knows and +believes to be true, rather than to win favour from his readers by his +manner of telling it. There is not a pretty phrase, an exaggeration, nor +an invention in the two volumes of Mr. Jukes; all is plain unadorned +fact, and because it is so, is deserving, not merely of perusal, but of +study. Such are the recommendations of Mr. Jukes' pages to the public, +and all who desire to see truth united with novelty will peruse +them."--_Morning Herald._ + +"Mr. Jukes has been most judicious in his selection of topics whereon to +dwell in his narrative, and he describes with great vivacity and +picturesque power. There is much novelty and freshness in his book, and +much valuable information."--_Daily News._ + +"There are very few pages in the work which are not readable and +entertaining."--_Morning Post._ + +"Captain Blackwood having waived his right of authorship, the narrative +of the voyage has been undertaken by Mr. Jukes, favourably known by an +agreeable and informing book on Newfoundland, nor will the present work +detract from his reputation. The narrative is well planned, pleasantly +written, and full of matter."--_Spectator._ + +"A great deal was seen, and Geography, Topography, Geology, Natural +History, Ethnology, Philology, and Commerce may all be benefited by the +work before us."--_Literary Gazette._ + +"Mr. Jukes has performed his portion of the work with great ability, +sparing no pains in the working up of his abundant material, so as to +make it a book of science, as well as a book of amusement."--_Critic._ + +"Although a professed man of science, he has described what he saw in a +lucid and untechnical manner, so that his work will be found interesting +to the ordinary reader, while it is equally valuable to the scientific. +The amount of information conveyed is very great."--_Midland Herald._ + + + + + In 3 vols. 8vo. with Maps and numerous Plates, + + JOURNALS OF EXPEDITIONS OF DISCOVERY + INTO + CENTRAL AUSTRALIA, + AND + OVERLAND FROM ADELAIDE TO KING GEORGE'S SOUND, + IN THE YEARS 1840-1; + + _Sent by the Colonists of South Australia_, + WITH THE SANCTION AND SUPPORT OF THE GOVERNMENT: + INCLUDING + An Account of the Manners and Customs of the Aborigines, and the + state of their relations with Europeans. + + BY EDWARD JOHN EYRE, + RESIDENT MAGISTRATE, MURRAY RIVER, NOW LIEUT.-GOVERNOR OF NEW ZEALAND. + +*** _The Founder's Medal of the Royal Geographical Society was awarded +to Mr. Eyre for the discovery of Lake Torrens, and explorations of far +greater extent in Australia than any other traveller, a large portion +never having been previously traversed by civilized man._ + +"His narrative of what he did and overcame, is more like the stirring +stories of Park and Bruce than the tame and bookish diffuseness of +modern travellers. Nothing short of a perusal of the volumes can enable +our readers to appreciate this book."--_Spectator._ + +"We might easily extract much more from Mr. Eyre's volumes of interest +to the reader, but our limits circumscribe us. We therefore bid farewell +to them, with the recommendation to the public, not to overlook a work +which, though it records the failure of a great enterprize, is yet full +of matter, which proclaims it of value."--_Atlas._ + +"Mr. Eyre writes with the plain unaffected earnestness of the best of +the old travellers."--_Examiner._ + +"An intensely interesting book."--_Tablet._ + +"We must now close these interesting volumes, not, however, without +expressing our high approval both of the matter they contain, and of the +manner of their compilation. We rise from the perusal of them with a +feeling similar to that which follows the enjoyment of a pleasant work +of fiction."--_Critic._ + + + + + In 1 vol. 8vo. cloth, with large Map by Arrowsmith, and numerous + Illustrations, + + SOUTH AUSTRALIA AND ITS MINES, + + _With an Historical Sketch of the Colony, under its several + Administrations, to the Period of Captain Grey's Departure_. + + BY FRANCIS DUTTON. + +"The best work which has yet issued from the press, descriptive of the +resources and management of this thriving colony."--_Mining Journal._ + +"We have here a well-timed book. South Australia and Its Mines are now +objects of great interest; and Mr. Dutton's plain, unadorned recital, +contains just what the intending emigrant, or the mercantile inquirer, +will rejoice at having placed within his reach."--_Colonial Gazette._ + + + COLONIZATION; + PARTICULARLY IN SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA, + WITH SOME REMARKS ON SMALL FARMS AND OVER POPULATION. + + BY MAJOR-GENERAL SIR CHARLES JAMES NAPIER, K.C.B. + Author of "The Colonies; particularly the Ionian Islands" + + In 1 vol. 8vo. price 7_s._ boards. + +"We earnestly recommend the book to all who feel an interest in the +welfare of the people."--_Sun._ + + + _In 1 vol. post 8vo. price 5s. 6d._ + + HINTS FOR AUSTRALIAN EMIGRANTS, + + WITH + ENGRAVINGS AND EXPLANATORY DESCRIPTIONS + OF THE WATER RAISING WHEELS, + AND MODES OF IRRIGATING LAND IN SYRIA, EGYPT, SOUTH AMERICA, ETC. + + BY PETER CUNNINGHAM, + SURGEON, R.N. + _Author of "Two Years in New South Wales," &c._ + +"The mere name of Mr. Cunningham affords an ample guarantee for the +value of any work to which it may be prefixed; and, "to all whom it may +concern," we can confidently recommend this remarkably neat little +volume as replete with practical information. Its numerous illustrative +engravings in wood are executed in a very superior style."--_Naval and +Military Gazette, October 23rd, 1841._ + + + + + In 1 vol. 8vo. Map and Plates, cloth, price 12_s._ + + AUSTRALIA, + FROM PORT MACQUARIE TO MORETON BAY, + + WITH + _Descriptions of the Natives, their Manners and Customs, the Geology, + Natural Productions, Fertility, and Resources of that Region_. + + First explored and surveyed by order of the Colonial Government. + BY CLEMENT HODGKINSON. + +"The work before our consideration contains certain details connected +with the portion of Australia, described in it, which will prove of +first-rate importance to the colonist and emigrant, since they are +evidently derived from practical experience. Throughout this +unpretending little work we trace great honesty of purpose, and a +disposition to state no more than the bare facts as they presented +themselves."--_New Quarterly Review._ + + + _Just published, in 2 vols. 8vo. with a large Map_, + + AN HISTORICAL, + POLITICAL, AND STATISTICAL ACCOUNT + OF THE + ISLAND OF CEYLON. + + BY CHARLES PRIDHAM, ESQ. + AUTHOR OF + "THE MAURITIUS AND ITS DEPENDENCIES." + +"----All these events will be found fully set forth in the volumes under +notice, which are certainly far superior as a history of Ceylon to any +other that has yet appeared. The reader will also find in these pages +curious and original information respecting the habits, manners and +customs of the Cingalese, which he may look for in vain in similar +publications. Every portion of this valuable work teems with information +of a precise and important character."--_Observer._ + +"Those who seek information on the subject of Ceylon, will find his book +a great storehouse of facts."--_Economist._ + + + + + JUST PUBLISHED, + + A SERIES OF TEN COLOURED VIEWS, + TAKEN DURING THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF HER MAJESTY'S SHIPS + ENTERPRISE and INVESTIGATOR, + UNDER THE COMMAND OF + CAPTN. SIR JAMES C. ROSS, KT. F. R. S., + IN SEARCH OF + CAPTN. SIR JOHN FRANKLIN, KT. K.C.H., + + =Drawn by Lieut. W. H. BROWNE=, R.N. + LATE OF H. M. S. ENTERPRISE, + + With a Summary of the Arctic Expeditions in search of Sir John + Franklin. + + Dedicated, by Special Permission, + TO THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY. + + Price, in a Cover 16s. + Handsomely bound 21s. + + LONDON. + ACKERMANN & CO., 96, STRAND, + By Appointment to H. M. THE QUEEN, H. R. H. PRINCE ALBERT, + H. R. H. THE DUCHESS OF KENT, and the ROYAL FAMILY. + + + + +OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. + + +----The extreme interest evinced by the public would be likely to secure +a welcome for these views if their execution had been less felicitous +than it is. The Party arriving at the Southern Depōt is fearfully +grand.----ATHENĘUM. + +----Such are these ten extraordinary views; revealing scenes which are +enough to appal the stoutest hearts. We seem to ask of these mountains +of thick-ribbed ice "are our countrymen hidden from us by your fantastic +forms?" &c.----LITERARY GAZETTE. + +----We do not remember ever being so powerfully impressed with the +sublimity of portfolio drawings as with some of these views of the _icy +Polar Regions_ of the trackless North.----UNITED SERVICE GAZETTE. + +----We do not speak of it as a work of art merely, but of the evident +truth of delineation, of local colouring, and atmospheric +effects.----GLOBE. + +----This is a work which will no doubt meet with general +patronage--giving a vivid idea of the frozen regions.----BELL'S LIFE. + +----Ten of the most interesting views which scenery can +furnish.----ATLAS. + +----Perhaps the most attractive, as well as most effective, is _Noon in +Mid-Winter_, and conveys the most solemn notions of the _Polar Regions_. +This portfolio is the novelty of the season.----CRITIC. + + + + +[Illustration: + + DISCOVERIES OF THE + HON^{BLE}. HUDSON'S BAY CO^S. ARCTIC EXPEDITION + TO THE NORTH OF REPULSE BAY; + Conducted by JOHN RAE ESQ^R. 1846 & 1847; + Shewing in connection, the Discoveries made by + PARRY, ROSS, BACK, + & the Hon^{ble}. Company's Expedition Conducted by + DEASE & SIMPSON 1838-1839. + + _Adjusted & Drawn by_ + John Arrowsmith + + _London, Pub^d. Jan^y. 1^{st}. 1848, by John Arrowsmith, 10 Soho + Square._ + + _Discoveries of The Hon^{ble}. Hudson's Bay Co^s. Expeditions + are Col^d._ _Red_ + _D^o._ _of Sir Edward Parry_ _Purple_ + _D^o._ _of Sir John Ross_ _Yellow_ + _D^o._ _of Sir George Back_ _Green_] + + + + + * * * * * * + + + + +Transcriber's note: + +Obvious punctuation errors were corrected. + +Hyphen removed: a[-]head (p. 25), along[-]shore (p. 11), lime[-]stone +(pp. 107, 127). + +Hyphen added: snow[-]drift (pp. 160, 166). + +The following words appear with and without hyphens with similar +frequency and have not been changed: Chief[-]Factor, day[-]light, +foot[-]marks, in[-]doors, rein[-]deer. + +Native names have not been changed and appear with inconsistent +hyphenation. + +Chapter V contents: "North-pole" changed to "North Pole". + +Pp. vi, 61: "chace" changed to "chase" (Produce of the chase). + +P. viii: "CHAP. VIII" changed to "CHAPTER VIII". + +P. 11: "Canada mithatch" changed to "Canada nuthatch". + +P. 17: "excursons" changed to "excursions" (by making excursions). + +P. 30: "direcrection" changed to "direction" (east and west direction). + +P. 66: "Ivitchuck" changed to "Ivitchuk". + +P. 68: "lide" changed to "line" (line of declination). + +P. 113: added "to" (next to my skin). + +P. 136: "threugh" changed to "through" (the late journey safety +through). + +P. 163: "dissappeared" changed to "disappeared" (in many places, +entirely disappeared). + +P. 201: "fluffly" changed to "fluffy" (much shorter and less fluffy). + +P. 202: "Seiurius" changed to "Seiurus". + +P. 209: "p." inserted before "200" in item 56. + +Pp. 218-223: The table entitled "Dip of the needle and force of magnetic +attraction..." was reformatted and abbreviations were used to fit within +a reasonable width. + +Pp. 224-247: Each pair of pages is one table but the two pages are +presented one after the other. An additional column with the days of the +month has been added to the second page of each pair. + +P. 231: "Speculę" changed to "Spiculę" (Spiculę of snow falling). + +P. 235: The digits in the seventh entry are missing. + +P. 239: word following "colourless" is missing. + +Ad p. 4: "57 Illustration" changed to "57 Illustrations". + +Ad p. 5: "thau" changed to "than" (rather than to win favour). + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION TO THE +SHORES OF THE ARCTIC SEA IN 1846 AND 1847*** + + +******* This file should be named 39917-8.txt or 39917-8.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/9/9/1/39917 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at <a +href="http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></p> +<p>Title: Narrative of an Expedition to the Shores of the Arctic Sea in 1846 and 1847</p> +<p>Author: John Rae</p> +<p>Release Date: June 5, 2012 [eBook #39917]</p> +<p>Language: English</p> +<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p> +<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION TO THE SHORES OF THE ARCTIC SEA IN 1846 AND 1847***</p> +<p> </p> +<h4>E-text prepared by Moti Ben-Ari<br /> + and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> + (<a href="http://www.pgdp.net">http://www.pgdp.net</a>)<br /> + from page images generously made available by<br /> + Internet Archive<br /> + (<a href="http://archive.org">http://archive.org</a>).<br /> + The maps were scanned by the University of Manitoba Libraries<br /> + (<a href="http://umanitoba.ca/libraries">http://umanitoba.ca/libraries</a>)</h4> +<p> </p> +<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10"> + <tr> + <td valign="top"> + Note: + </td> + <td> + Images of the original pages are available through + Internet Archive. See + <a href="http://archive.org/details/cihm_39502"> + http://archive.org/details/cihm_39502</a> + </td> + </tr> +</table> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[i]</a></span></p> + +<h1> +NARRATIVE<br /> +OF AN<br /> +EXPEDITION TO THE SHORES<br /> +OF<br /> +THE ARCTIC SEA<br /> +IN 1846 AND 1847.<br /> +</h1> + +<h2> +<span class="smcap">By</span><br /> +JOHN RAE, +</h2> + +<div class="center"> +HUDSON BAY COMPANY'S SERVICE, COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION.<br /> +<br /> +<i>WITH MAPS.</i><br /> +<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> +LONDON:<br /> +T. & W. BOONE, 29, NEW BOND STREET.<br /> +<br /> +1850.<br /> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ii" id="Page_ii">[ii]</a></span></p> +<div class="center"> +MARCHANT SINGER AND CO., PRINTERS, INGRAM-COURT,<br /> +FENCHURCH-STREET. +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[iii]</a></span></p> + +<div class="center"> +TO<br /> +SIR GEORGE SIMPSON,<br /> +<i>Governor-in-Chief of Rupert's Land</i>,<br /> +THE ZEALOUS PROMOTER OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY,<br /> +THIS VOLUME IS INSCRIBED<br /> +AS A TRIBUTE OF RESPECT AND REGARD<br /> +</div> + +<div class="right">BY THE AUTHOR.</div> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[iv]</a></span></p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[v]</a></span></p> + +<h2>CONTENTS.</h2> + +<div class="right">PAGE</div> + +<h3>CHAPTER I.</h3> + +<p>Object and plan of the Expedition—Equipment at York Factory—Boats—Crews—Articles +useful in an Arctic Voyage—Breaking up of the ice +in Hayes and Nelson Rivers—Departure from York Factory—Progress +retarded by the ice—First night at sea—Reflections—Rupert's +Creek—Unbroken fields of ice—Broad River—Description of the +Coast—Double Cape Churchill—Open sea to the north and north-west—Arrive +at Churchill—White whales—Mode of catching them—Sir +George Simpson's instructions—Stock of provisions</p> +<div class="right"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></div> + +<h3>CHAPTER II.</h3> + +<p>Depart from Churchill—A gale—Anchor in Knap's Bay—Land on an +island—Esquimaux graves—Visited by Esquimaux—A large river +running into Knap's Bay—Nevill's Bay—Corbet's Inlet—Rankin's +Inlet—Cape Jalabert—Greenland whales seen—Chesterfield Inlet—Walruses—Cape +Fullerton—Visited by an Esquimaux—Reefs—Cape +Kendall seen—Ice packed against the shore—Take shelter in an excellent +harbour—River traced—Seals—Gale—Ice driven off—Direction +of the tides reversed—Whale Point—Many whales seen—Again stopped +by the pack—Wager River estuary—Ice drifts—Eddy currents—No +second opening into Wager River seen—Enter Repulse Bay—Interview +with Esquimaux—No intelligence of Sir John Franklin</p> +<div class="right"><a href="#Page_19">19</a></div> + +<h3>CHAPTER III.</h3> + +<p>Receive a visit from a female party—Their persons and dress described—Crossing +the Isthmus—Drag one of the boats up a stream—Succession +of rapids—North Pole Lake—Find a plant fit for fuel—Christie Lake—Flett +Portage—Corrigal Lake—Fish—Deer-scaring stones—White +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[vi]</a></span>wolf—Stony Portage—View of the sea—Exploring party sent in advance—Their +report—Long Portage—Difficult tracking—Miles Lake—Muddy +Lake—Rich pasturage and great variety of flowers on its +banks—Marmot burrows—Salt Lake—Visit Esquimaux tents—Discouraging +report of the state of the ice—Esquimaux chart—Reach the sea—Ross +inlet—Point Hargrave—Cape Lady Pelly—Stopped by the ice—Put +ashore—Find a sledge made of ship-timber—Thick fog—Wolves—Walk +along the shore—Remains of musk-cattle and rein-deer—Nature +of the coast—Danger from the ice—Irregular rise of the tide—Deer +on the ice—Fruitless efforts to proceed northward—Cross over to +Melville Peninsula—Gale—Again stopped by the ice—Dangerous +position of the boat—Return to starting point—Meeting with our +Esquimaux friends at Salt Lake—Deer begun to migrate southward—Walk +across the isthmus to Repulse Bay</p> +<div class="right"><a href="#Page_38">38</a></div> + +<h3>CHAPTER IV.</h3> + +<p>State of things at Repulse Bay—Determine to discontinue the survey till +the spring—Reasons—Party sent to bring over the boat—Fix on a site +for winter residence—Ptarmigan—Laughing geese—Eider and king +ducks—Visits of natives too frequent—Return of the party sent for the +boat—Report the bay more closely packed than before—Preparations +for wintering—Fort Hope built—Proceed to North Pole and Christie +Lakes to look out for fishing stations—Purchase dogs—Wariness of +the deer—Flocks of geese pass southward—Blue-winged and snow-geese—Their +habits—Snow-storm—Its effects—Return to Fort Hope—Daily +routine—Signs of winter—Deer numerous—Quantity of game +killed—Provision-store built of snow—Great fall of snow—Effects of +the cold—Adventure with a deer—Visited by a party of natives—Their +report of the ice westward of Melville Peninsula—An island said to be +wooded—Produce of the chase in October—Temperature—Two observatories +built of snow—Band of wolves—A party caught in a snow-storm—Esquimaux +theory of the heavenly bodies—Temperature of +November—Diminished supply of provisions</p> +<div class="right"><a href="#Page_61">61</a></div> + +<h3>CHAPTER V.</h3> + +<p>Winter arrangements completed—Learn to build snow-houses—Christmas-day—North Pole +River frozen to the bottom—1st January—Cheerfulness +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[vii]</a></span> +of the men—Furious snow-storm—Observatories blown +down—Boat buried under the snow—Ouligbuck caught in the storm—Dog +attacked by a wolf—Party of natives take up their residence near +Fort Hope—Esquimaux mentioned by Sir John Ross known to them—Boat +dug out of the snow—A runaway wife—Deer begin to migrate +northward—A wolf-chase—First deer of the season shot—Difficulty of +deer-hunting in spring—Dimensions of an Esquimaux canoe—Serious +accident to Ouligbuck—A conjuror—Preparations for the journey +northward—Temperature—Aurora Borealis</p> +<div class="right"><a href="#Page_81">81</a></div> + +<h3>CHAPTER VI.</h3> + +<p>Set out for the north—Equipment of the party—Snow-blindness—Musk-ox—Mode +of killing it—Reach the coast near Point Hargrave—Ice +rough along shore—Pass Cape Lady Pelly—Unfavourable weather—Slow +progress—Put on short allowance—River Ki-ting-nu-yak—Pemmican +placed <i>en cache</i>—Cape Weynton—Colvile Bay—High hill—Dogs +giving way—Work increased—Snow-house-building—Point +Beaufort—Point Siveright—Keith Bay—Cape Barclay—Another <i>cache</i>—Leave +the coast and proceed across the land—River A-ma-took—Dogs +knocked up—Lake Ballenden—Harrison islands—Party left to +procure provisions—Proceed with two of the men—Cape Berens—Relative +effects of an eastern and western aspect—Halkett Inlet—Reach +Lord Mayor's Bay—Take formal possession of the country—Commence +our return to winter quarters—Friendly interview with the +natives—Obtain supplies of provisions from them—View of Pelly Bay—Trace +the shore to the eastward—Travel by night—Explore the coast +of Simpson's Peninsula—Arrive at Fort Hope—Occurrences during +the absence of the exploring party—Character of the Esquimaux +Ivitchuk</p> +<div class="right"><a href="#Page_97">97</a></div> + +<h3>CHAPTER VII.</h3> + +<p>Preparations for exploring the coast of Melville Peninsula—Outfit—Leave +Fort Hope—Pass over numerous lakes—Guide at fault—Dease +Peninsula—Arrive at the sea—Fatigue party sent back to Fort Hope—Barrier +of ice—Lefroy Bay—Large island named after the Prince of +Wales—Detained by stormy weather—Short allowance—Cape Lady +Simpson—Selkirk Bay—Snow knee-deep—Capes Finlayson and Sibbald—Deer +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[viii]</a></span>shot—A cooking scene—Favourite native relish—Again +stopped by stormy weather—Cape M'Loughlin—Two men left to hunt +and fish—Cape Richardson—Chain of islands—Garry Bay—Prince +Albert range of hills—Cape Arrowsmith—Coast much indented—Baker +Bay—Provisions fail—Proceed with one man—Cape Crozier—Parry +Bay—Cape Ellice, the farthest point seen—Take possession—Commence +our return—No provisions procured by the men left behind—Short +commons—Flock of cranes—Snow-blindness—Arrive at +Repulse Bay</p> +<div class="right"><a href="#Page_137">137</a></div> + +<h3>CHAPTER VIII.</h3> + +<p>Occurrences at Fort Hope during the absence of the exploring party—Remove +from winter quarters to tents—Sun seen at midnight—Build +an oven and bake bread—Esquimaux method of catching seals—A +concert—Lateness of the summer—A native salmon-wear—Salmon +spear—Boulders on the surface of the ice—Visited by a native from +the Ooglit Islands—His report of occurrences at Igloolik—Indolence +of the natives—Ice breaking up—Halkett's air-boat—A storm—The +ice dispersed—Prepare for sea</p> +<div class="right"><a href="#Page_165">165</a></div> + +<h3>CHAPTER IX.</h3> + +<p>Voyage from Repulse Bay to York Factory</p> +<div class="right"><a href="#Page_178">178</a></div> + +<h3>APPENDIX.</h3> + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="left">List of Mammalia</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_199">199</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">——Birds</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_201">201</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">——Fishes</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_204">204</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">——Plants</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_205">205</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Specimens of Rocks</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_215">215</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Dip of the needle and force of magnetic attraction at various stations</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">along the west shore of Hudson's Bay, and at Fort Hope, Repulse Bay + + +</td> +<td align="right"><a href="#Page_218">218</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Abstract of Meteorological Journal from September, 1846, to August, 1847</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_224">224</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Figures and Letters used for denoting the state of the weather, &c.</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_248">248</a></td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 900px;"> +<a href="images/i009.jpg"> +<img src="images/i009-t.jpg" width="400" height="371" +alt="The Discoveries made by The Honble. Hudson's Bay Cos. Arctic +Expeditions, between the Years 1837 & 1847. are Coloured Red +NORTHERN AMERICA DISCOVERIES of the HONBLE. HUDSON'S BAY +COMPANY'S ARCTIC EXPEDITION in 1838 & 1839. John Arrowsmith" +title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption"><br /><br /> +The Discoveries made by The Honble. Hudson's Bay Cos. Arctic Expeditions,<br /> +between the Years 1837 & 1847. are Coloured Red<br /> +NORTHERN AMERICA<br /> +DISCOVERIES<br /> +of the<br /> +HON<sup>BLE</sup>. HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY'S<br /> +ARCTIC EXPEDITION<br /> +in<br /> +1838 & 1839.<br /> +John Arrowsmith<br /></span> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p> +<h1>NARRATIVE,</h1> +<div class="center">ETC. ETC.</div> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER I.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Object and plan of the Expedition—Equipment at York Factory—Boats—Crews—Articles +useful in an Arctic Voyage—Breaking +up of the ice in Hayes and Nelson Rivers—Departure from +York Factory—Progress retarded by the ice—First night at +sea—Reflections—Rupert's Creek—Unbroken fields of ice—Broad +River—Description of the coast—Double Cape Churchill—Open +sea to the north and north west—Arrive at Churchill—White +whales—Mode of catching them—Sir George Simpson's +instructions—Stock of provisions.</p></div> + + +<p>It is already well known to those who take an +interest in Arctic discovery, that the Hudson's Bay +Company intended fitting out an expedition in 1840, +which was to have proceeded to the northern shores +of America by Back's Great Fish River, for the purpose +of tracing the coast between the river Castor +and Pollux of Dease and Simpson, and the Strait of +the Fury and Hecla, as it was then very generally +supposed that Boothia was an island.</p> + +<p>The party<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span> was to have been commanded by that +able and enterprising traveller, Mr. Thomas Simpson, +whose indefatigable exertions, in conjunction with +those of Mr. Dease, had during the three preceding +years effected so much; but his untimely and +melancholy fate prevented that intention from being +carried into effect, and the survey of the Arctic coast +was discontinued for a few years.</p> + +<p>When it was determined that the survey should +be resumed, Sir George Simpson, Governor-in-Chief +of the Company's territories, informed me that a +boat expedition to the Arctic Sea was again contemplated, +at the same time doing me the honour of +proposing that I should take command of it,—a +charge which I most joyfully accepted.</p> + +<p>The plan of the expedition was different from any +that had hitherto been adopted, and was entirely of +Sir George Simpson's forming. Its leading features +were as follows:—A party of thirteen persons, including +two Esquimaux interpreters, was to leave +Churchill in two boats at the disruption of the ice, +and coast along the western shore of Hudson's Bay +to the northward as far as Repulse Bay; or, if +thought necessary, to the Strait of the Fury and +Hecla. From this latter point the shore of the +Arctic Sea was to be traced to Dease and Simpson's +farthest discoveries eastward; or, if Boothia Felix +should be found to form part of the American continent, +up to some place surveyed by Captain or +Commander (now Sir John and Sir James C.) Ross.</p> + +<p>I started<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span> from the Sault de S<sup>te.</sup> Marie in the latter +part of July, 1845, in a canoe which I took on +with me as far as Red River, where this frail vessel +was changed for a boat, which is better adapted for +traversing large sheets of water. We had rather a +stormy passage to Norway House, at which place +five men were engaged for the expedition; and +having brought two with me from the southern +department, I required only three more, who I +knew could easily be procured at York Factory.</p> + +<p>At first there was some difficulty in getting volunteers, +as a report had got abroad (set on foot, I +believe, by either M'Kay or Sinclair, guides and +steersmen with the expeditions under Sir G. Back +and Dease and Simpson), that the whole party, if +not starved for want of food, would run the risk of +being frozen to death for want of fuel.</p> + +<p>After leaving Norway House our progress was +slow, the water being very shallow, and our boat +rather a heavy drag, for a single crew, over the portages. +Two Indians who were engaged, the one to +go as far as Oxford House, and the other all the way +to York Factory, stipulated that they should do no +work on Sunday; to which I readily agreed, thinking +that they acted conscientiously; and this I really +believe to have been the case with one; but I had +some doubts about the sincerity of the other, when +I learned that, before leaving us, he had stolen a +shirt and blanket from one of the boat's crew.</p> + +<p>We arrived at York Factory on the 8th October,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span> +during a strong gale of north-east wind with heavy +rain and sleet, which had thoroughly drenched us +all; in addition to which the men were so bedaubed +with mud whilst dragging the boats along shore, +that scarcely a feature of their faces could be distinguished.</p> + +<p>On landing I was most kindly welcomed by Chief-Factor +Hargrave and the other gentlemen of the +Factory.</p> + +<p>There was little probability of our being able to +get to Churchill by water this autumn, nevertheless +the boats that had been built for the expedition were +launched and put in order for sea. They were fine +looking and strong clinker-built craft, 22 feet long +by 7 feet 6 inches broad, each capable of carrying +between fifty and sixty pieces of goods of 90 lbs. per +piece. They were each rigged with two lug sails, +to which a jib was afterwards added; under which, +with a strong breeze of wind, they were found to +work admirably. They were named the "North +Pole" and the "Magnet."</p> + +<p>We had a continuance of northerly winds until +the ice began to form on the river, when it would +have been highly imprudent to attempt going along +the coast, and I did not wish to run the risk of +having our boats stranded, which would have been +a very likely occurrence had we put to sea. There +was, therefore, nothing to be done but to haul our +boats up again; nor did this cause me much disappointment, +as I felt pretty certain that, in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span> +following spring, we could advance as fast to the +northward as the season of the breaking up of the +ice did; and this supposition I afterwards found to +be correct.</p> + +<p>My attention was now turned to the proper equipment +of my party, in which I was most ably assisted +by Chief-Factor Hargrave and my friend, Mr. W. +Mactavish, who was in charge of York during the +temporary absence of the former gentleman; so that, +with keeping a meteorological journal—in which +the temperature of the air, height of the barometer, +force and direction of the winds, and state of the +weather were registered eight times a day—and +taking observations for latitude, longitude, variation +of the compass, and dip of the needle, &c., I had +occupation enough on my hands.</p> + +<p>Among other articles which I thought might be +useful, were a small sheet-iron stove for each boat, +a set of sheet-iron lamps for burning oil after the +Esquimaux fashion, some small kettles (commonly +called conjurors) having a small basin and perforated +tin stand for burning alcohol, a seine net, and four +small windows, each of two double panes of glass. +An oiled canvass canoe was made, and we also had +one of Halkett's air boats, large enough to carry three +persons. This last useful and light little vessel ought +to form part of the equipment of every expedition.</p> + +<p>On the 30th April, 1846, that harbinger of spring, +the Canada goose, was seen; and so early as the +5th May the ice in Hayes' River commenced breaking +up; but it was more than a month after this<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span> +date before the Nelson or North River opened. At +length, on the 12th June, it was reported that a +passage was practicable, and everything was got +in readiness for making a start on the following +day.</p> + +<p>The crews of the boats were divided as follows:—</p> + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="center" colspan="3"><span class="smcap">North Pole.</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">John Rae.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">John Corrigal,</td><td align="left">Orkneyman,</td><td align="left">Steersman.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Richard Turner,</td><td align="left">half-breed,</td><td align="left">Middleman.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Edward Hutchison,</td><td align="left">Orkneyman,</td><td align="left">ditto.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Hilard Mineau,</td><td align="left">Canadian,</td><td align="left">ditto.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Nibitabo,</td><td align="left">Cree Indian,</td><td align="left">ditto and hunter.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center" colspan="3"><span class="smcap">Magnet.</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">George Flett,</td><td align="left">Orkneyman, </td><td align="left">Steersman.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">John Folster,</td><td align="left">ditto,</td><td align="left">Middleman.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">William Adamson,</td><td align="left">Zetlander,</td><td align="left">ditto.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Jacques St. Germain, </td><td align="left">Canadian,</td><td align="left">ditto.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Peter Matheson,</td><td align="left">Highlander,</td><td align="left">ditto.</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p>All these men had the same wages, namely, £40 +per annum, with the promise of a gratuity in the +event of good conduct.</p> + +<p>The lading of each of the boats, including the +men's luggage, amounted to about seventy pieces; +and with this cargo they were quite deep enough in +the water and very much lumbered—so much so +that, to allow room for pulling, a quantity of the +cargo had to be displaced.</p> + +<p>On the 13th June, after bidding farewell to our kind +friends at York, and receiving a salute of seven guns +and three hearty cheers, we set sail with a light air +of fair wind. We had not proceeded more than a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span> +mile down the river, when the wind chopped round +directly in our teeth, and blew a gale. As I could +not think of turning back, we were speedily under +close-reefed sails, turning to windward; the wind and +tide were going in opposite directions, and there was +an ugly cross sea running, which caused us to ship +much water over both the lee and weather side. +After a couple hours of this work we gained sufficient +offing to clear the shallows, which lie for some +miles out from the point of Marsh, (this being the +name of the N.E. extremity of York Island), and +stood across towards the north shore of the Nelson +River. The men in the Magnet, having erroneously +carried on too great a press of canvass, were left +a mile or two astern. As we advanced the wind +gradually abated, and we soon fell in with quantities +of ice driving along with the current, through +which we had much difficulty in finding a passage.</p> + +<p>We made the land near Sam's Creek; and it being +now calm, and flood tide strong against us, we cast +anchor close to the shore between 9 and 10 o'clock. +The night was beautiful, and, as all my men had gone +to sleep, nothing interrupted the stillness around +but the occasional blowing of a white whale, the +rather musical note of the "caca wee" (long-tailed +duck), or the harsh scream of the great northern +diver. Yet I could not close my eyes. Nor was this +wakefulness caused by the want of comfort in my +bed, which I must own was none of the most inviting, +as it consisted of a number of hard-packed bags +of flour, over which a blanket was spread, so that I<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span> +had to accommodate myself in the best way I could +to the inequalities of the surface. To a man who had +slept soundly in all sorts of places—on the top of a +round log, in the middle of a swamp, as well as on +the wet shingle beach, such a bed was no hardship; +but thoughts now pressed upon me which during +the bustle and occupation of preparation had no time +to intrude. I could not conceal from myself that +many of my brother officers, men of great experience +in the Indian country, were of opinion that +we ran much risk of starving; little was known of +the resources of that part of the country to which we +were bound; and all agreed that there was little +chance of procuring fuel, unless some oil could be +obtained from the natives. Yet the novelty of our +route, and of our intended mode of operations, had +a strong charm for me, and gave me an excitement +which I could not otherwise have felt.</p> + +<p>14th.—As there were great quantities of ice +along the shore to the northward of us, I let the +boats take the ground, so that this morning they +were high and dry on the mud, the water being a +mile or two outside of us, and we as far from the +high-water mark.</p> + +<p>As the Goose Hunt House (a small hut where one +of the Company's servants and some Indians go +every spring and autumn to shoot and salt geese,) +was at no great distance, I visited it, but found that +the people had taken their departure for the Factory—a +certain sign that the geese and ducks had gone +farther north. Numbers of the Hudsonian godwit<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span> +(<i>limosa Hudsonica</i>) were flying about, apparently +intending to breed in the neighbourhood.</p> + +<p>The boats floated at a quarter after 10 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span>, and +we got under weigh with a fine light breeze from +the S.E. The temperature of the air was 62° and +the water 40°. There were many pieces of ice floating +about, and a great quantity close-packed about +half a mile outside. At mid-day we were in latitude +57° 25' 93" N. After running by Massey's patent +log for 10¾ miles north, we were stopped by ice at a +few minutes after 1 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, when we made fast to a +large grounded mass, which protected us from the +smaller floating pieces as long as the tide was ebbing; +but as soon as the flood made, it required all our +exertions to prevent the boats being damaged. We +now found the great advantage of some sheet copper +that had been nailed on their bows, as it completely +protected them from being chafed. At 11 +next forenoon, finding our situation rather dangerous, +as soon as the tide flowed far enough, we pushed +inshore, and beached the boats on a fine smooth +surface of mud and gravel. With the exception of +a heavy shower of rain at 6 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span>, the weather continued +fine all day, but the sky was too cloudy to +permit any observations to be made.</p> + +<p>On the 16th we advanced only 1½ miles. The +temperature of the air 42° and the water 34°. By +an azimuth of the sun the variation of the compass, +10° 54' east, was obtained.</p> + +<p>As it was only at, or near, high-water that we<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span> +could make any progress, we crept along shore +about four miles during the morning's tide, and in +the evening we put into Rupert's Creek, which +afforded us good shelter, and also fresh water, of +which we were getting rather short. A fresh breeze +from the east brought in much ice, which completely +blockaded our harbour. The morning of the 18th +was very fine, but the easterly wind still continued, +and such was the effect produced by it that not a +spot of open water was to be seen. The latitude +57° 32' 18" was observed, and an observation of the +sun's azimuth yesterday gave the variation of the +compass 9° 56' E. Some partridges (<i>tetrao saliceti</i>), +ducks, and a flat-billed phalarope (<i>P. fulicarius</i>) +were shot.</p> + +<p>19th.—The ice having become somewhat more +open during the night, we left the creek at 4 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span>, +and ran 32½ miles before a fine breeze of S.E. wind, +through lanes of open water, as nearly as possible in +a N.N.E. course. Large unbroken fields, on which +numbers of seals were lying, now opposed our further +progress. At high-water next morning, we +set forward among ice so closely packed, that we +were obliged to open a passage by pushing aside +the smaller pieces; we thus gained between two and +three miles and reached Broad River. We lay here +during the remainder of the day, which was too +cloudy for a meridian observation; but in the evening +an amplitude of the sun gave variation 12° 19' +east. The dip of the needle was 84° 46' 4".</p> + +<p>The morning's<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span> tide of the 21st advanced us nearly +three miles. Our new position was found to be in latitude +58° 9' 51" N.; the latitude of Broad River must +therefore be 58° 7' N. A strong breeze of S.S.W. +wind had driven out some of the ice, so that, with the +aid of sails and poles, we gained 12 miles more +northing in the evening.</p> + +<p>From the 22nd to the 24th we continued to creep +alongshore, but our progress was very slow, 19 +miles being, at the highest estimate, as much as +we gained. We were, however, killing ducks of +various kinds, and collecting eggs enough to keep +us in food. A deer was also shot by Nibitabo on +the 22nd, and on the 24th I procured from a high +mound of ice, where it was feeding, what appeared +to be a Canada nuthatch (<i>sitta Canadensis</i>). The +skin was preserved, and is with other specimens in +the Honourable Hudson's Bay Company's warehouse +in London.</p> + +<p>On the 25th we lay all day in a small creek, which +afforded us a safe harbour.</p> + +<p>The wind, which had yesterday blown a strong +gale from the N.E., shifted round to W., which gave +us some hopes of an opening to seaward. In the +evening much ice drove out with the ebb. The latitude +of our position by reduction to the meridian +was 58° 31' N.</p> + +<p>26th.—This morning we were fortunate enough, +after a great deal of trouble, to get the boats into +comparatively open water, and as the wind was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span> +moderate from E.S.E. we threaded our way, through +narrow channels and openings, until opposite Cape +Churchill. At 3 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> we doubled the cape, and to +our great joy found an open sea to the north and +north west of it.</p> + +<p>The whole of the coast between Nelson River and +Cape Churchill is low and flat, with not a single +rock in situ. There are, however, a number of +boulder stones of granite, and debris of limestone, +to be seen.</p> + +<p>There are numerous lakelets near the shore, the +banks of which form the favourite breeding places +of the Canada goose, the mallard, pintail, teal, scaup, +and long-tailed ducks, great northern diver,<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> and +the Arctic tern. The phalaropus hyperboreus is also +very numerous—so much so that I could have shot +twenty in half-an-hour. The female of this phalarope +and of the P. fulicarius is considerably larger, +and has much finer markings on its plumage, than the +male, the colours being much brighter.</p> + +<p>As we sailed along shore to the westward, the +land gradually became more high and rocky, and +there were many ridges of stones lying off several +miles from the beach, among which we had some +trouble in threading our way, the navigation being +rendered still more difficult by a thick fog.</p> + +<p>We<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span> arrived at the mouth of Churchill River at +3 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> on the 27th, but as the tide was ebbing we +could not stem the current, so that we did not reach +the Company's Fort, situated on the west bank of +the river and about five miles up, until half-past +six, when I was most kindly welcomed by my +friend Mr. Sinclair, chief trader, the gentleman +in charge, who had not expected to see us so +early.</p> + +<p>My letter of instructions had not yet arrived, so +that we took advantage of the delay thus occasioned +to have the boats unloaded, some slight repairs +effected, and the cargoes examined and dried. I +determined on leaving here some tobacco, salt, and +one or two other articles that were not absolutely +essential, supplying their place with pemmican and +flour. Some observations for the dip of the needle +gave mean dip 84° 47' 3". The variation of the +compass 12° 29' east, and the latitude of the Establishment +58° 44' 12" were found, and the mean +time of 70 vertical vibrations of the needle in the +magnetic meridian was 148".</p> + +<p>The people of the fort were busy killing white +whales, great numbers of which come up the river +with the flood tide. The mode of taking them is +very simple. A boat, having a harpooner both at +bow and stern, sails out among the shoal, and being +painted white, it does not alarm them; they approach +quite close, and are thus easily struck. +When harpooned they do not run any great distance<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span> +in one direction, but dart about much in the +way that a trout does when hooked.</p> + +<p>On the evening of the 4th July the anxiously +expected instructions arrived from Red River, viā +York Factory. The following is a copy of them:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<div class="right"> +"<i>Red River Settlement</i>,<br /> +"15th June, 1846. +</div> +<p> +"<span class="smcap">Sir</span>, +</p> + +<p>"You are aware that the grand object of the expedition +which has been placed under your direction +is to complete the geography of the northern +shore of America, by surveying the only section of +the same that has not yet been traced, namely, the +deep bay, as it is supposed to be, stretching from +the western extremity of the Straits of the Fury +and Hecla to the eastern limit of the discoveries of +Messrs. Dease and Simpson.</p> + +<p>"2. For this purpose you will proceed from +Churchill with the two boats, and twelve men that +have been selected for this arduous and important +service, losing not a moment, at least on your outward +voyage, in examining such part of the coast as +has already been visited and explored. In a word, +you will reach, with as little loss of time as possible, +the interesting scene of your exclusive labours.</p> + +<p>"3. In prosecuting the survey in question, you +will, as a matter of course, endeavour to ascertain as +accurately as circumstances may permit, without +occasioning any serious delay, the latitudes and +longitudes of all the most remarkable points within +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span>the range of your operations, and also the general +bearing and extent of all the intermediate portions +of coast, embodying the whole at the same time in +the form of a chart, or rather of the draft of a chart, +from day to day.</p> + +<p>"4. But in addition to this, your principal and +essential task, you will devote as much of your +attention as possible to various subordinate and +incidental duties. You will do your utmost, consistently +with the success of your main object, to +attend to botany and geology; to zoology in all its +departments; to the temperature both of the air and +of the water; to the conditions of the atmosphere +and the state of the ice; to winds and currents; to +the soundings as well with respect to bottom as +with respect to depth; to the magnetic dip and the +variation of the compass; to the aurora borealis and +the refraction of light. You will also, to the best +of your opportunities, observe the ethnographical +peculiarities of the Esquimaux of the country; and +in the event of your wintering within the Arctic +Circle, you will be careful to notice any characteristic +features or influences of the long night of the high +latitudes in question. These particulars, and such +others as may suggest themselves to you on the +spot, you will record fully and precisely in a journal, +to be kept, as far as practicable, from day to day, +collecting at the same time any new, curious, or +interesting specimens, in illustration of any of the +foregoing heads.</p> + +<p>"5. In order<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span> +to provide against the probable +necessity of requiring two seasons for your operations, +you will take with you all the provisions that +your boats can carry, with such shooting, hunting, +and fishing tackle as may enable you to husband your +supplies. I need hardly mention medicines and +warm clothing among the necessaries of your +voyage, for, in full reliance on your professional zeal +and ability, I place the health of your people, under +Providence, entirely in your hands.</p> + +<p>"6. In the event of wintering in the country, +you will cultivate the most friendly relations with +the natives, taking care, however, to guard against +surprise. For this purpose you will repeatedly and +constantly inculcate on your men, collectively and +individually, the absolute necessity of mildness and +firmness, of frankness and circumspection.</p> + +<p>"7. If, in the event of your being unable to +accomplish the whole of your task in one season, +you see ground for doubting whether the resources +of the country are competent to maintain the whole +of your people, you will in that case send back a +part of them to Churchill with one of the boats. +For the remaining part of your men you cannot fail to +find subsistence, animated as you and they are by a +determination to fulfil your mission at the cost of +danger, fatigue, and privation. Wherever the +natives can live, I can have no fears with respect to +you, more particularly as you will have the advantage +of the Esquimaux, not merely in your actual +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span>supplies, but also in the means of recruiting and +renewing them.</p> + +<p>"8. During the winter you will pursue the +various objects of the expedition by making excursions +with a due regard, of course, to safety, on the +snow or on the ice; and at the close of your second +season, after having accomplished the whole of +your task, you will return according to your own +discretion, either by your original course or by +Back's Great Fish River, keeping constantly in view, +till you reach Churchill or Great Slave Lake, the +general spirit of these your instructions.</p> + +<p>"9. In conclusion, let me assure you that we +look confidently to you for the solution of what may +be deemed the final problem in the geography of the +northern hemisphere. The eyes of all who take an +interest in the subject are fixed on the Hudson's +Bay Company; from us the world expects the final +settlement of the question that has occupied the +attention of our country for two hundred years; and +your safe and triumphant return, which may God in +His mercy grant, will, I trust, speedily compensate +the Hudson's Bay Company for its repeated sacrifices +and its protracted anxieties.</p> + +<div class="right"> +"I remain,<br /> +"Sir, &c.<br /> +(Signed) "<span class="smcap">G. Simpson</span>." +</div> + +<p> +"John Rae, Esq.<br /> +"Churchill,<br /> +"Hudson's Bay."<br /> +</p> +</div> + +<p>The boats<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span> +were loaded during the night, and at 6 +<span class="smcap">A.M.</span> were sent down to the old stone fort at the mouth +of the river, where they were to wait for me a few +hours. Besides an abundant supply of ammunition, +guns, nets, twines, &c. for our own use, and various +articles for presents and to barter with the Esquimaux, +we had on board</p> + + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="right">20</td><td align="left">bags pemmican, </td><td align="left">about 90 lbs. each,</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2</td><td align="left">ditto grease,</td><td align="left"> " 90 lbs. "</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">25</td><td align="left">ditto flour,</td><td align="left">each 1 cwt.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4</td><td align="left">gallons of alcohol for fuel;</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p>with a good stock of tea, sugar, and chocolate, but +only four gallons of brandy and two gallons of port +wine, as I was well aware of the bad effects of spirits +in a cold climate. Considering that we were to be +absent fifteen or perhaps twenty-seven months, our +quantity of provisions (amounting in all to little more +than four months' consumption at full allowance) +was not very great.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTE:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p> +<a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a> +<a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> +The male and female of the northern diver (<i>colymbus glacialis</i>) +resemble one another so much that it is very difficult to +distinguish the one from the other. The immature bird has often +been described by ornithologists as the female. +</p> +</div> + +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER II.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Depart from Churchill—A gale—Anchor in Knap's Bay—Land +on an island—Esquimaux graves—Visited by Esquimaux—A +large river running into Knap's Bay—Nevill's Bay—Corbet's +Inlet—Rankin's Inlet—Cape Jalabert—Greenland whales seen—Chesterfield +Inlet—Walruses—Cape Fullerton—Visited by +an Esquimaux—Reefs—Cape Kendall seen—Ice packed against +the shore—Take shelter in an excellent harbour—River traced—Seals—Gale—Ice +driven off—Direction of the tides reversed—Whale +Point—Many whales seen—Again stopped by the pack—Wager +River estuary—Ice drifts—Eddy currents—No second +opening into Wager River seen—Enter Repulse Bay—Interview +with Esquimaux—No intelligence of Sir John Franklin.</p></div> + + +<p>Having taken on board Ouligbuck and one of his +sons as Esquimaux interpreters, and bid adieu to +Mr. Sinclair, who, during our stay, had omitted +nothing that could in any way tend to the comfort of +the party, we set sail at 11 o'clock on the 5th July +with a light air of N.N.E. wind, and stood to the +westward across Button's Bay. The weather was +fine, and to enliven the scene numbers of white +whales were seen sporting about, and sometimes +coming within a few yards of the boats. The men +were all in excellent health and spirits, there not<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span> +being a melancholy look nor a desponding word to +be seen or heard among them.</p> + +<p>At 3.30 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> we passed Pauk-a-thau-kis-cow River, +and the wind having freshened and shifted round to +the S.E. we had run upwards of forty miles before +10 o'clock. The temperature of the air was 49°, +and of the water 50°, thus showing that there was +little or no ice in the neighbourhood.</p> + +<p>The night being fine we continued under sail, the +crews being divided into two watches. The land +had now become much lower than it was about +Churchill, and the coast very flat; so that it was +necessary to keep six or eight miles from the land +when the tide was out; and even then, although the +boats drew only two and a half feet water, there +was little enough for them. The bottom was of +mud, sand, or shingle, with every here and there a +large boulder stone, some of them ten or twelve feet +high.</p> + +<p>Early on the morning of the 6th three Esquimaux +came off in their kayaks, and although we were +going at the rate of four miles an hour they easily +overtook us. As they were going towards Churchill, +I sent a few lines to Mr. Sinclair by them.</p> + +<p>Our latitude at noon was 60° 17' 59" N. Thermometer +in air 49°, in water 45°. The total distance +run, measured by Massey's log, was ninety-five miles, +which agreed very nearly with our latitude, the difference +being easily accounted for by the circumstance +that the ebb tide runs much stronger to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span> +northward than the flood does in an opposite +direction.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon there was a strong breeze, which, +although fair, was rather too much onshore and +raised a heavy sea. At 5 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, having run twenty-five +miles since noon, we got into shallow water, and +although the heads of the boats were immediately +turned to seaward, the ebb tide was too quick for us, +and we got aground, being ten miles from the main +shore. Five miles N.W. of us there was a small but +steep island, on the E. side of which there was still +a deep snow drift. By a meridian altitude of the +moon our latitude was 60° 47' 24" N.</p> + +<p>The following morning we floated at 2 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span>, and +with a strong breeze from S.E. stood on our course. +The weather looked threatening, and we had not +been long out before the wind increased to a gale, +and the sea rose in proportion. The boats fully +realised the good opinion we had of them, but being +so deeply laden the sea broke frequently over them, +and kept us continually baling; at last the Magnet +shipped a heavy sea, and the steersman, either from +losing his presence of mind or from not knowing how +to act, allowed the boat to broach to. Fortunately +no other sea struck her whilst thus placed, else both +she and the crew must inevitably have been lost. I +here saw the benefit of the precaution I had taken +to have some Orkneymen with me, for it was evident +the others (although as good fellows as could possibly +be wished) knew nothing about the management +of a boat in such weather.</p> + +<p>I was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span> loath to lose so fine an opportunity of +getting on, but it would have been recklessness to +attempt proceeding. We accordingly ran in towards +Knap's Bay, which was nearly abreast of us, and +were soon anchored in a snug cove under the lee of +the largest island in the bay. It was well that we +put in here, for the wind in a short time increased +to a perfect storm with heavy rain.</p> + +<p>On a neighbouring island some miles to the south +of us, many Esquimaux tents were seen, but we +could not discover if they were inhabited.</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding the rain I took my gun and +made a tour of the island. It is about two miles +long, a quarter of a mile broad, and not exceeding +100 feet in height, being covered with a scanty +vegetation, and thickly strewn in many places with +fragments of granite.</p> + +<p>I met with a great many Esquimaux graves, the +bodies being protected from wild animals by an +arch of stone built over them. We found a number +of spear-heads, knives, &c. placed in some of +these heaps of stones; but the Esquimaux do not, I +believe, destroy all the property of the deceased, as +is common among most tribes of Indians.</p> + +<p>Tracks were seen of a large white bear which had +evidently been feasting on the eggs of various wildfowl +that breed here; among these I noticed the +eider duck (<i>fuligula mollissima</i>), the long-tailed +duck (<i>fuligula glacialis</i>), and the black guillimot +(<i>uria grylle</i>).</p> + +<p>In the evening, when the wind had somewhat<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span> +moderated, we were visited by five Esquimaux from +the tents before mentioned; they each received a +piece of tobacco, of which they are remarkably fond, +and one of them promised to carry or forward to +Churchill a letter which I addressed to Sir George +Simpson. In a net that we had set, a salmon +weighing 10 lbs. was caught. A large and deep +river empties its waters into this bay; its course is +about due east, and it abounds with salmon, seals, +and white whales, being consequently a favourite +resort of the natives. The rise of the tide was thirteen +feet. When about to go to bed I found my +blankets quite wet by the seas that washed over me +in the morning; this, however, made them keep out +the wind better, and did not certainly affect my rest.</p> + +<p>The following day was more moderate, but it was +2 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> before we could venture out of our harbour. +By observation the latitude 61° 9' 42" N., and the +variation of the compass 7° 48' east were obtained; +the dip of the needle being 86° 18' 3" N.</p> + +<p>At 4 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> on the 9th the wind went round so far +to the east that we could not lie our course; it rained +heavily, but the wind became more favourable, and +we stood over towards the north shore of Nevill's +Bay. The temperature of the water at mid-day 37°, +air 44°; latitude by observation 61° 55' 40" N.</p> + +<p>We passed among many small islands, the resort +of great numbers of the birds already mentioned, +which we used as food (although not very palatable) +to save our pemmican. I also noticed a few of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span> +foolish guillimot (<i>uria troile</i>), the first we had +met with.<a name="FNanchor_A_2" id="FNanchor_A_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> At half-past five, it being calm, we +landed on a small island to get some water; we +found a few Hutchins geese here, one of them having +a brood of young with her. These appear to have +taken the place of the Canada goose, as I have not +seen any of the latter lately. At 8 o'clock, it still +being calm, we pulled up towards the north point +of Nevill's Bay, which bore east of us. No ice was +to be seen, but there were numerous patches of +snow on the main shore N.E. of us, distant 10 or +11 miles.</p> + +<p>I saw a young shore lark and a young snow +bunting, both able to fly. There are quantities of +red, grey, and blue granite in this island, variegated +with quartz.</p> + +<p>The shores had now become steep and rugged, +the whole coast being lined with bare primitive +rocks.</p> + +<p>After breakfast<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span> +next morning we pulled round the +east end of some rocks near which we had lain at +anchor during the flood tide, and kept on our course +across Whale Cove. Some small pieces of ice were +seen floating about; the thermometer in the shade +55°, water 36°. A fog, which had been thick all the +morning, cleared up at half-past ten, and we saw +some islands at no great distance right ahead, and +a smoke a few miles inland on our beam, probably +made by Esquimaux, but we could not see any tents. +Our latitude by observation was 62° 11' 23" N. +Temperature of air 55°, of water 37°.</p> + +<p>The weather was very variable, with calms and +light breezes alternately. At a little after 7 in the +evening we were off the south point of Corbet's Inlet. +It rained hard almost all night; we, however, continued +our course, and at 7 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> got among a +number of reefs and islands that lie near the south +point of Rankin's Inlet. In attempting to pass between +two of these our boat got aground, and as +the tide was ebbing she could not be shoved afloat +again; but, as the greater part of the cargo was carried +on shore before the water fell very far, no damage +was done. An excellent observation of the sun gave +latitude 62° 35' 47" N., variation 6° 6' W., Marble +Island bearing east by compass. The black guillimot +was in such numbers here that four or five were +killed at one shot. Many eggs were collected, and one +nest was found having two eider and three long-tailed +ducks' eggs in it. The eider had possession,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span> +but whether the birds had a mutual understanding, +or whether the stronger had driven out the weaker +possessor, it is difficult to say.</p> + +<p>At 4 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> we floated and ran across the inlet, the +traverse being 15 miles. We landed at its north +point, as the wind and tide were both against us. +There were numerous signs that this place is often +visited by the Esquimaux; the bones of various +animals and the remains of some stone "caches" +being every where visible. A little before midnight +a deer was shot by Corrigal. During a walk +I fell in with a large white owl (<i>strix nyctra</i>). As +is usually the case it was very shy, and could not be +approached within gun-shot.<a name="FNanchor_A_3" id="FNanchor_A_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p> + +<p>The rise of the tide was 14 feet.</p> + +<p>At half-past two <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> on the 13th we landed at +Jalabert.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span> The morning was delightful, being quite +calm with a sharp frost. While we lay here waiting +the change of the tide, Ouligbuck shot a fine large +buck. Many seals were sporting about, and a shoal +of salmon were seen swimming close to the beach. +Having taken on board our venison, we pulled with +the tide now in our favour. We saw upwards of a +dozen Greenland whales, all apparently busy feeding, +some of them very large. At noon we were in latitude +63° 6' 14" N. The variation of the compass +8° 52' W. In the evening we passed Chesterfield +Inlet. Great numbers of rocks lie out fully eight +miles from the shore on its north side. The wind +continued fair and moderate all night, and at 6 in +the morning, when in the large bay S.W. of Cape +Fullerton, a single Esquimaux visited us in his kayak. +He had been at Churchill last year, but did not intend +to go thither this season, although he had a +number of wolf, fox, and parchment deer skins at +his tent. A present of a knife and a piece of tobacco +made him quite happy, and he left us shouting +so loudly as to show that his lungs were in good +order. The party to which he belongs consists of +ten families, their hunting-grounds being situated +on the borders of Chesterfield Inlet, where they +spear a great number of deer whilst swimming across +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span>in the autumn. At some distance inland, woods +are found. A number of walruses were observed +lying on a small ridge of rocks. They were grunting +and bellowing—making a noise which I fancy would +much resemble a concert of old boars and buffaloes. +We did not disturb their music. Obtained a meridian +observation of the sun, which gave latitude +64° 3' 42" N. As the refraction was great and the +natural horizon used, this is probably erroneous; if +it is not, Cape Fullerton is not properly laid down in +the charts, being too far to the south. Temperature +of the air 58°, water 41°.</p> + +<p>When doubling Cape Fullerton, we were obliged, +by the numerous granite reefs, to keep six or seven +miles from the mainland. At 7 in the evening we +landed to replenish our water casks, and had an +unsuccessful chase after two deer. The horizon +being clear, I saw Cape Kendall on Southampton +Island, bearing S.E. by S. magnetic.</p> + +<p>15th.—We made but little progress last night, +there being no wind. The weather was rather cold, +the thermometer standing at 40°, and the water being +only 4° above the freezing point indicated the +proximity of ice. A short time afterwards a large +<i>pack</i> was seen about five miles distant. On approaching +nearer, we found that it extended along +shore as far as the eye could see. At 2 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> we +ran inshore, and took shelter under some grey-coloured +granite rocks twenty feet high. Deer +being noticed at no great distance, two or three<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span> +sportsmen went after them, and succeeded in shooting +a doe. A very large whale was observed.</p> + +<p>Finding our present position far from being +a safe one, at high water we pushed along shore +among masses of ice during a thick fog, and entered +an inlet which opportunely presented itself, +and which proved to be an excellent harbour about +200 yards wide, from four to six fathoms deep, and +nearly four miles long. The bottom being sand and +mud would afford excellent anchorage for much +larger craft than ours. As there were many seals +swimming about, I was led to infer that salmon or +trout were abundant; two nets were put down, but +no fish were caught.</p> + +<p>During a two days' detention here I traced, for +eight miles, the course of a considerable river which +empties its waters into the inlet. I found it to be a +succession of rapids and deep pools, and running +as nearly as possible in a S.S.E. course. Near its +mouth upwards of thirty seals were lying basking +in the sun; a ball fired among them sent the whole +party walloping into the water at a great rate, more +frightened, however, than hurt. One of the men +had accompanied me, and during our walk we met +with a hen partridge (<i>tetrao rupestris</i>) and her +brood. I have seen many birds attempt to defend +their young, but never witnessed one so devotedly +brave as this mother; she ran about us, over and +between our feet, striking at our hands when we attempted +to take hold of her young, so that she herself<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span> +was easily made prisoner. Although kept in +the hand some time, when let loose again she continued +her attacks with unabated courage and perseverance, +and was soon left mistress of the field, with +her family safe around her.</p> + +<p>We were fortunate in finding some willows fully +an inch in diameter, which were far superior for fuel +to the sea-weed and short heath we had been using +for the last two days.</p> + +<p>Hutchins geese breed here in numbers, and as +no Canada geese were seen, I presume that they +do not usually come so far north along the coast. +The shores have a very rugged appearance, there +being numerous high ridges of primitive rocks running +far out into the sea in an east and west direction, +the line of stratification dipping to the +south at an angle of 75° with the horizon. In +many places these rocks were thickly studded with +small garnets. The rise and fall of the tide was +13½ feet.</p> + +<p>During the whole of the 16th the weather was +cloudy, and it rained heavily all night; but on the +17th the wind increased to a gale, the sky cleared +up, and a satisfactory observation was obtained by +the artificial horizon, which placed us in latitude +64° 6' 45" N. As we were more than ten miles +north of the situation where I had observed the +latitude on the 14th, the difference between the +latitude obtained then and that of our present situation +shews the uncertainty of observations made<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> +with the natural horizon when there is much refraction, +or when there is ice in the neighbourhood. +The variation of the compass was 20° 10' W. +The gale continued all day, and being from the +westward much ice was driven off shore.</p> + +<p>18th. Last night the wind moderated a little, but +about 2 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> it blew more strongly than before. +The forenoon was sufficiently fine to permit me to +observe the dip of the needle 86° 36' 5" N.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon, when collecting plants, I discovered +some willows of a larger growth than those +we had before found, and I carried a load of them +to the boat. In the evening there was no ice to be +seen either along shore or in the offing, but it still +blew too hard for us to get under weigh. The temperature +of the air to-day varied from 50° to 55°. +Just as I had turned in for the night, it was reported +that two white bears were close at hand. I immediately +got up, and set off "sans culottes" to have +a share of the anticipated sport, when I soon discovered +that two harmless deer in their winter coats +had been mistaken for bears. It was high water +to-day at 11h. 40m. <span class="smcap">A.M.</span>, the rise being 15 feet. +By this it will appear that 3 o'clock is the time of +high water at full and change of the moon.</p> + +<p>At 3 next morning, the wind having moderated, +we started, and ran along shore at a fine rate for ten +miles; but here the coast turning more to the westward +we could not lie our course, and were compelled +to put ashore until the flood tide made; for it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span> +was found that, contrary to what we had previously +experienced, the current ran to the northward during +the flow of the tide, and in an opposite direction +during the ebb, this being probably caused by the +strait north of Southampton Island being blocked +up with ice. After an hour's stay we got under +weigh again at a few minutes after seven, and +turned to windward. Our latitude at noon was +64° 20' 51" N. It now fell calm; but this had not +continued more than half an hour before a light +breeze sprung up from the east, and at 1 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> we +passed Whale Point. A great many whales were +seen to-day, and one of them was swimming amongst +a large flock of king ducks, apparently amusing +itself with the confusion that it caused when rising +to breathe. Temperature of the air 50°—water 38°.</p> + +<p>20th. It being calm for some time during the +night, we came to anchor whilst the tide was against +us; but at 6 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> we again continued our route. +There was much ice lying along the shore of +Southampton Island, its proximity being indicated +by the temperature of the water (35°) this +morning. Some more large whales were noticed. +The ice was again too close packed to permit us +to advance; we therefore landed, and the latitude +64° 56' 33" N., and the variation of the compass +36° 13' W., were observed. The musquitoes were +very numerous and troublesome, but, nevertheless, +the sportsmen succeeded in shooting five deer.</p> + +<p>On the 21st and 22d we had a continued struggle<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span> +amongst heavy and close-packed ice until we +reached Wager River Estuary, where we were detained +all day by the immense quantities driving in +with the flood and out again with the ebb tide, +which ran at the rate of 7 or 8 miles an hour, forcing +up the floes into large mounds, and grinding +them against the rocks, with a noise resembling +thunder.</p> + +<p>During the ebb tide the eddy currents once +or twice brought in the ice with great force, which +would have smashed our boats, as they lay in rather +an exposed situation along the face of some steep +rocks, had it not fortunately taken the ground before +it reached us. During our stay, a meridian +observation of the sun by artificial horizon gave +latitude 65° 15' 36" N., variation 48° 13' W.</p> + +<p>23d. There was a thin coat of ice on the water +this morning, the temperature of which at midnight +was 2° below the freezing point, that of the air 36°. +As our position was far from safe, we were kept +on the alert all night, and got under weigh at half-past +three, for the purpose of finding some safer +harbour. To get to a small bay a mile and a half +to the west of us, we had more than once to pull for +our lives, as the eddy currents already spoken of +caused such sudden and uncertain movements among +the ice that there was no telling on what side we +were to expect it. With much difficulty we entered +our harbour, and pulled half a mile up, so as to +be safe from the ice, which we had reason to expect<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span> +would come in with the flood. The latitude of our +new anchorage was 65° 16' 8" N. This is the most +northerly point on the south side of Wager River, +which appears to be not very correctly laid down in +the charts. The channel is not more than four or +five miles broad. In the evening, being wearied +with delay, as soon as the flood tide slacked, we +pushed out into the stream, and when in mid-channel +had the advantage of a fine breeze, which enabled +us to stem the current that still ran at the rate +of five miles an hour. The boats had some narrow +escapes, and the Magnet received a severe squeeze, +but fortunately sustained no injury, and we were soon +in safety on the north side of the channel.</p> + +<p>24th. Having pulled along shore all night, we cast +anchor at half-past five this morning to take breakfast +and give rest to the men. Our course since crossing +Wager River had been among a number of small +rocky islands, between which we had some difficulty in +threading our way, but we did not see any signs of +a second opening into Wager Bay, although a sharp +look-out was kept. A light air of fair wind springing +up, we got under weigh at a few minutes before 8, +and stood on to the northward, the ebb tide again +running with us. At mid-day the temperature of +the air was 45°, water 32°.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon the breeze increased, and at a +quarter-past seven we rounded Cape Hope, and ran +into Repulse Bay. By an amplitude of the sun +whilst setting, the variation of the compass 62° 40'<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span> +W. was obtained. As soon as we passed the Cape +a great change in the temperature of the air and +water was observed, the former being 56°, and the +latter 46°.</p> + +<p>25th. We continued under sail all night, and at +6 in the morning were within seven miles of the +head of the Bay, and cast anchor between a small +island and the shore to get some fuel and cook +breakfast. Our latitude was 66° 26' 57" N. Variation +of compass 59° 10' W.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon, the wind being ahead, we plied +to windward, and when entering Gibson's Cove, observed +with much joy four Esquimaux on the +shore. I immediately landed near them, and taking +Ouligbuck's son with me as interpreter, joined the +party, and calling out Texma (peace), shook hands +with them. They were at first in great fear, and +appeared half inclined to run away, but on our kind +intentions towards them being explained they became +quite at ease, chatting and laughing as if we +had been old acquaintances. They were good-looking, +of low stature, and much more cleanly than +those in Hudson's Straits. Their dresses were made +of deer skin, of the form so often described, the +coat having a long tail somewhat resembling that of +an English dress coat. Their legs were encased in +waterproof boots made of seal-skin, and they all +wore mittens, which they seldom took off their hands. +There were two of them middle-aged, Oo-too-ou-ni-ak<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span> +(who had a formidable beard and whiskers) +and Kir-ik-too-oo; the other two were lads from +eighteen to twenty years of age; and we were soon +after joined by a fine young fellow with ruddy +cheeks and sparkling black eyes, having an expression +of exceeding good humour in his laughing +countenance. Our new friend wore round his head +a narrow leather band of deer-skin ornamented +with foxes' teeth, and appeared to be somewhat of a +dandy in his own estimation. None of the party +had ever visited Churchill, and they had neither +heard nor seen anything of Sir John Franklin. +From a chart drawn by one of the party, I was led to +infer that the sea (Akkoolee), to the west of Melville +Peninsula, was not much more than forty miles +distant in a N.N.W. direction, and that about thirty-five +miles of this distance was occupied by deep +lakes; so that we would have only five miles of land +to haul a boat over—a mode of proceeding which, +even had the distance been much greater, I had +intended adopting, in preference to going round +by the Fury and Hecla Straits.</p> + +<p>A small river empties its waters into the Bay within +a hundred yards of the place where we landed: +this stream, up which the boat was to be dragged, +issues from one of the lakes through which we had +to pass. Leaving all the men but one to unload the +boats, I went some miles inland to trace our intended +route. After walking about five miles along the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span> +stream already mentioned (the current in which was +very strong), we arrived at the first lake, a long and +narrow body of water, having steep and in some +places rocky banks, which we traced for two miles, +and returned late in the evening to our companions.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="Footnote_A_2" id="Footnote_A_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> +These birds breed in great numbers among the rocks in +Orkney, and are much attached to their young. By chasing the +latter in a boat they become so fatigued as to be easily caught. +When one of them is taken into the boat the parent bird approaches +within a few feet, dives under and around the boat in all directions, +and whenever it comes up to the surface utters a peculiarly melancholy +note, at the same time turning its head in a listening attitude +as if expecting to hear an answer from the prisoner. The +anxiety of the mother has always the desired effect, and it is pleasing +to observe the joy with which she swims away with her recovered +young one, nestling it under her wing and never permitting +it to stray a foot from her.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="Footnote_A_3" id="Footnote_A_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> +An excellent plan of shooting these birds, and one that I have +often successfully practised, is to roll up a bit of fur or cloth about +the shape and size of a mouse, and drag it after you with a line +twenty yards long. The owl will soon perceive the decoy, although +half-a-mile distant; and after moving his head backwards +and forwards as if to make sure of his object, he takes wing, and +making a short sweep in the rear of his intended prey, pounces +upon and seizes it in his claws, affording the sportsman a fine +opportunity of knocking him down. I have sometimes missed my +aim, leaving the owl to fly away with the false mouse (which the +sudden jerk had torn from the line) in his claws. The Indians, +taking advantage of this bird's propensity to alight on elevated +spots, set up pieces of wood in the plains or marshes with a trap +fastened to the top. In this way I have known as many as fifty +killed in the early part of winter by one Indian. The owl is very +daring when hungry. I remember seeing one of these powerful +birds fix its claws in a lapdog when a few yards distant from the +owner, and only let go his gripe after a gun was fired. The poor +little dog died of its wounds in a few days.</p> +</div> + +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER III.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Receive a visit from a female party—Their persons and dress +described—Crossing the Isthmus—Drag one of the boats up a +stream—Succession of rapids—North Pole Lake—Find a plant +fit for fuel—Christie Lake—Flett Portage—Corrigal Lake—Fish—Deer-scaring +stones—White wolf—Stony Portage—View +of the sea—Exploring parties sent in advance—Their report—Long +Portage—Difficult tracking—Miles Lake—Muddy Lake—Rich +pasturage and great variety of flowers on its banks—Marmot +burrows—Salt Lake—Visit Esquimaux tents—Discouraging +report of the state of the ice—Esquimaux chart—Reach the +sea—Ross inlet—Point Hargrave—Cape Lady Pelly—Stopped +by the ice—Put ashore—Find a sledge made of ship-timber—Thick +fog—Wolves—Walk along the shore—Remains of musk-cattle +and reindeer—Nature of the coast—Danger from the ice—Irregular +rise of the tide—Deer on the ice—Fruitless efforts +to proceed northward—Cross over to Melville Peninsula—Gale—Again +stopped by the ice—Dangerous position of the boat—Return +to starting point—Meeting with our Esquimaux friends +at Salt Lake—Deer begun to migrate southward—Walk across +the isthmus to Repulse Bay.</p></div> + +<p>The morning of the 26th was fine, with a fresh +breeze from W.N.W. A visit which I had intended +paying to the ladies was anticipated by their coming +over to our side of the river, bag and baggage.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span> +They were accompanied by a very old man named +Shad-kow-doo-yak, who was extremely infirm, being +obliged to move about in an almost horizontal posture, +supported by a stick. There were six women, +(three old, the other three young,) the whole of them +married. One of the latter appeared quite like a +girl of ten years, and was rather good-looking, having +more regular features, and being cleaner and more +neat in her dress than the others. They were all +tatooed on the face, the form on each being nearly +the same, viz. a number of curved lines drawn from +between the eyebrows up over the forehead, two +lines across the cheek from near the nose towards +the ear, and a number of diverging curved lines +from the lower lip towards the chin and lower jaw. +Their hands and arms were much tatooed from the +tip of the finger to the shoulder. Their hair was collected +in two large bunches, one on each side of the +head; and a piece of stick about ten inches long and +half-an-inch thick being placed among it, a strip of +different coloured deer-skin is wound round it in a +spiral form, producing far from an unpleasing effect. +They all had ivory combs of their own manufacture, +and deer-skin clothes with the hair inwards; the +only difference between their dresses and those of +the men being that the coats of the former had much +larger hoods, (which are used for carrying children,) +in having a flap before as well as behind, and also +in the greater capacity of their boots, which come<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span> +high above the knee, and are kept up by being fastened +to the girdle. Some needles, beads, and other +trifles were given them, at which they manifested +their joy with loud shouts and yells, differing from +the men in this respect, who received what was +given them in silence, although they were evidently +much pleased.</p> + +<p>In the forenoon we were joined by two fine-looking +young fellows who had just returned from +hunting deer, in which they had been successful, +having driven a large buck off one of the islands +into the water and speared it there.</p> + +<p>One of the women had been on board the Fury +and Hecla, both at Igloolik and Winter Island, and +still wore round her wrist some beads which she +had obtained from these vessels. This party consisted +of twenty-six individuals, there being four +families.</p> + +<p>All the cargo being placed in security and the +Magnet well moored in our little land-locked harbour, +the party, assisted by four Esquimaux, commenced +dragging the North Pole up the stream.</p> + +<p>The latitude of our landing place was found to +be 66° 32' 1" N., being about seven miles further +south than it has been laid down on the charts. +The variation of the compass by an azimuth was +58° 37' 30" W. This I afterwards found to be +erroneous, probably arising from local attraction. +The rate of the chronometer had become so irregular<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span> +that it could not be depended upon for finding +the longitude, and during the winter it stopped +altogether.</p> + +<p>When about to put on a pair of Esquimaux boots, +one of our female visitors, noticing that the leather of +the foot was rather hard, took them out of my hands +and began chewing them with her strong teeth. +This is the mode in which they prepare and soften +the seal skin for their boots, and they are seldom +without a piece of leather to gnaw when they +have no better occupation for their teeth. At half-past +nine <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> the men returned from the boat, +having been absent since half-past seven in the +morning. They had with much labour dragged +her three miles through a succession of rapids, the +channel being so obstructed with large boulder +stones and rocks, that the most of the party were +obliged to be almost continually up to the waist in +ice-cold water. The boat had received some severe +blows and rubs, but no material damage. The +worst part of the river had been passed, and it was +only a mile and a-half farther to the lake (named by +the Esquimaux Chi-gi-uwik) from which it takes +its rise. The Esquimaux who had assisted us were +paid with a large knife each.</p> + +<p>Two nets that had been set produced four salmon, +but the best season for catching these fish was over, +as they had now returned to deep water. The +evening was cloudy with a strong and chilly breeze +from N.N.W. Temperature of the air at 10 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> 35°.</p> + +<p>27th. As<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span> soon as the men had finished breakfast +they carried each a load over the rocks to where +the boat lay.</p> + +<p>I this morning tried some of our male friends +with a little tea and biscuit, which they did not +relish nearly so well as the ladies had done the previous +evening. Indeed, one of the latter, whom I +have already mentioned, knew what biscuit was the +moment she saw it, and said she had eaten some +when on board Captain Parry's ships. I remained at +our landing-place until the afternoon to obtain some +observations. That for latitude gave a result different +only 4" from that of yesterday. Having +engaged three Esquimaux to carry up some things +that were still to be taken, at one o'clock I followed +my men and came up with them some distance up +the lake. As we could not prevail on any of the +Esquimaux to accompany us as guides, they left us +here, and I sent back John Folster and Ouligbuck +to take care of the property left behind.</p> + +<p>Our course was nearly N.N.W., but a gale of +head wind impeded our progress greatly. The +temperature of the air was 52°; water of lake 40°. +A few hours' poling, pulling, and tracking brought +us to the end of the lake, which is about six miles +long, from two hundred yards to half a mile broad, +and in some places thirty fathoms deep. The lake, +as well as the stream up which we had come, was +named after our boat. We now turned to the westward +and entered a narrow passage one-and-a-half<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span> +miles long, which connects the lake we had passed +through with the next one; the current was strong, +but between poling and tracking we soon got into +still water. Our course now turned again to the +N.N.W., and after proceeding a mile in this direction, +we put on shore for the night in a small bay, +where we found a good supply of a plant (<i>andromeda +tetragona</i>), which answers very well for +fuel.</p> + +<p>28th. We did not get under weigh this morning +until 6 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> as the men had a hard day's work +yesterday, and did not get to rest until a late hour. +The lake continues to trend in the same direction as +before, but the banks are neither so high nor so +rocky, being covered with short grass in many places +instead of moss. The wind still kept ahead, so that +it was past ten in the morning before we arrived at +a portage, and while two of the men were preparing +breakfast, the others were employed carrying over +some of the baggage. This portage, which I named +after Flett, one of the steersmen, was half a mile +long; and being in some places soft and in others +stony, it was half-past four before we were afloat in +the lake on the other side of it. It being calm, great +numbers of fish were seen in this small body of +water, which was narrow and only two-and-a-half +miles long, with a deep bay on each side, which +gave it the form of a T. It received the name of +Corrigal, after one of my men. We lost our way +here for a short time, having entered a wrong arm of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span> +the lake. At 8 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> we arrived at another portage, +which being a short one was soon got over. +We pulled in a N.W. direction across this lake for +about three miles to a shallow streamlet that flows +from it; here we were to make our third and I +hoped our last portage. We left this for our next +morning's work, as it was now half-past 10 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> +There was a great number of stones set up here +for the purpose of frightening the deer into the +water. A large white wolf was seen.</p> + +<p>The morning of the 29th was raw and cold, with +a gale of wind from N.W. by N. We got over the +portage (which, although short, was covered with +rough granite stones that stuck to our boat's iron-shod +keel like glue) at 20 minutes after 6, and +embarked on what I then supposed was another +lake, but which afterwards turned out to be a portion +of the second lake we had entered, and the +largest body of fresh water we had yet seen. I +named it after my much-respected and kind friend, +Alexander Christie, Esq., Governor of Red River +Colony, whose name has been so often favourably +mentioned by Arctic travellers.</p> + +<p>After pulling W.N.W. for eight miles, we were +again in doubt about the route, and whilst on my +way to some high ground in order to ascertain it, I +shot a fine buck with an inch and a half of fat on +his haunches.</p> + +<p>We advanced two miles to the head of a small +inlet, whence I set out with one of the men to a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span> +neighbouring rising ground to endeavour to obtain +a view of our future route, and, if possible, to get a +sight of the sea. After a fatiguing walk over hill +and dale, our eyes were gladdened with a sight of +what we so anxiously looked for, but the view was +far from flattering to our hopes. The sea, or rather +the ice on its surface, was seen apparently not more +than twelve miles distant, bearing north; but there +was not a pool of open water visible. It was evident +that our detention in the lakes had as yet lost us +nothing. Returning at 8 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, I sent four men in +two parties to endeavour to discover the best route, +one party being ordered to trace a considerable +lake in a N.N.W. direction, and, if possible, discover +its outlet.</p> + +<p>30th.—The men sent off last night returned +between 1 and 2 this morning: those who went to +the N.W. reported that there was a small stream +flowing towards the Arctic Sea from the farthest +extremity of the lake they had traced.</p> + +<p>As this account agreed with what we had heard +from the Esquimaux, there was no doubt that we +were now in the right track. We had to cross +two portages, each a quarter of a mile, and traverse +a lakelet one mile in extent, before we reached the +body of water which the men had traced to its outlet. +It was half-past 2 before we accomplished this work, +there being many obstructions in the form of large +granite stones, among and over which we had +to drag the boat.</p> + +<p>The lake<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span> in which we now found ourselves is +upwards of 27 fathoms deep, about 6½ miles long, +and not more than half a mile broad; it lies nearly +N. by W., and is bounded by banks much more +steep and rugged than any we had yet passed, +being in some places two or three hundred feet +high. It is situated in latitude 66° 55' N., and +longitude 87° 35' W. We found that the longest +and most difficult portage was now before us. By +the time we had the baggage carried half way over +it was getting late, and we did not take dinner until +9 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span></p> + +<p>The following morning was cloudy, with a cold +north breeze, which was not at all unfavourable for +the work we had to do. We went to work at an +early hour, but our advance was very slow, as the +portage fully realised the bad opinion that we had +formed of it. Hitherto, by laying the anchor out +some distance ahead, and having a block attached +to the bow of the boat by a strop, or what sailors +call a swifter, passing round her, we could form a +purchase sufficiently strong to move her with facility, +but here our utmost exertions were required, and +the tracking line was frequently broken. A piece +of iron an eighth of an inch thick, which lined the +keel from stem to stern, was actually drawn out and +doubled up, so that it was necessary to remove the +whole. At half-past 10, when half-way across, we +breakfasted, after which we met with a bank of +snow, over which we went at a great rate. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span> +latitude, 66° 59' 37" N., was observed. Near the +extremity of the portage there were some ponds of +water deep enough to float the boat, that helped us +not a little. The descent of a steep bank fully +a hundred feet high brought us into another fine +lake eight miles long and one mile broad, lying +nearly north and south, with steep rocky shores on +its west side: the place where we came upon its +waters was about three miles from its southern +extremity. This lake was named "Miles," after a +friend. As it was quite calm, we pulled up due +north and entered a narrow inlet, out of which there +was no passage. We had passed at a mile and +a half from this a stream flowing from the lake, but +it looked so insignificant that I could not suppose +it to be the same that the Esquimaux had reported +as having sufficient water for floating the boat. It +was now too late, however, to look for any other +exit, and we all betook ourselves to rest after a +hearty supper, for which the fatigues of the day +gave us an excellent appetite. Some of the men +had large pieces of the skin stripped from their +backs whilst lifting the boat over the various obstructions +on the portage.</p> + +<p>1st August.—Finding that there was no likelihood +of there being any other outlet to the lake +than the one we had seen, we took out the cargo, +and hauling our boat over a shallow part, we reloaded +and soon entered a narrow lake, the waters +of which were very muddy. At half an hour before<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span> +noon we landed to have breakfast, and the latitude +67° 4' 22" N., variation of the compass 66° 38' W., +were observed. The shores of this lake, being +covered with a rich pasturage and a great variety +of flowers, afforded a pleasing contrast to the +country we had hitherto travelled through. There +were great numbers of marmots here, with a well-beaten +path leading from one burrow to another. +After dragging the boat over many shallows, we +arrived a little after 5 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> at high-water mark, in +latitude 67° 13' N., longitude 87° 30' W. The tide +being out, and there not being sufficient water to +float the boat, I decided on remaining here until the +flood made.</p> + +<p>The recent foot-tracks of two Esquimaux were +seen on the sand.</p> + +<p>A short distance below where we stopped, the +stream we had descended empties its waters into a +small river which flows from the westward.</p> + +<p>2nd.—As the tide did not rise so high by +two feet during the night as it had done the previous +day, the boat did not float; we were, consequently, +obliged to carry our baggage a mile +further down the stream, and afterwards, with much +trouble, haul our boat over numerous shoals. We +were now afloat in a salt-water lake, and on passing +a small point two Esquimaux tents came in view. +Not having got breakfast, I landed with the interpreter, +and, whilst the men were cooking, went to +ascertain if there were any inhabitants. All was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span> +quiet inside, but after calling once or twice outside +the door of one of the tents, an old woman made +her appearance, apparently just out of bed, as she +was very coolly drawing on her capacious boots, +whilst she surveyed her visitors without showing the +slightest symptoms of alarm, although I afterwards +learned that I was the first European she had ever +seen. An old man soon after popped out his head +alongside that of his better half, who appeared to be +endowed with a flow of language which set all his +efforts to say anything at defiance. A few trifling +presents put us all, in a few minutes, on a most +friendly footing. Their report of the state of the +ice in the large bay before us was far from encouraging; +they said that there was seldom sufficient +water for the passage of one of their small canoes, +and present appearances led me to suppose that they +were correct. The name of the man was I-il-lak, of +the woman Rei-lu-ak. The remainder of the party, +consisting of their two sons and their wives, had +gone a day's journey inland to hunt the musk-ox. +From a chart drawn by the woman, who, as is usual, +(at least among the Esquimaux) was much the more +intelligent of the two, I was led to infer that there was +no opening leading into the large bay but through +the Strait of the Fury and Hecla, and Prince Regent's +Inlet.</p> + +<p>As soon as breakfast was over, in which our new +friends joined us, we crossed the lake, which is 6 +miles long by 1½ broad, and put on shore three of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span> +men (W. Adamson, H. Mineau, and Nibitabo) who +had assisted us across, and were now to walk back +to Repulse Bay, a distance of forty-three miles. By +them I sent orders to John Folster (the man left in +charge) to make every possible preparation for wintering, +and to keep up a friendly intercourse with +the natives. My crew now consisted of George +Flett, John Corrigal, Richard Turner, Edward +Hutchison, Peter Mathieson, Jacques St. Germain, +and William Ouligbuck. We now passed for two +miles through a narrow channel—not more than 40 +yards wide—among pieces of ice which were carried +along with great rapidity by the ebb tide that +had just commenced; this led us into the deep inlet +which we had seen on the 29th ult. This inlet +I named after Donald Ross, Esq., Chief-Factor. +We found but little open water; by keeping near +the rocks, however, we made some progress northward +by using our ice-poles, and after advancing a +mile or two I went upon a piece of ice and obtained +the latitude 67° 15' N. by a meridian observation +of the sun in quicksilver. About eight miles to the +north of this we passed a rocky point, which was +named after Chief-Factor Hargrave, the gentleman +in charge of York Factory when the expedition was +fitted out, and who afforded every possible assistance +towards its proper equipment. This point is +formed of granite and gneiss, and has a very rugged +appearance, there being neither moss nor grass on +the rocks to soften their asperities.</p> + +<p>At 7 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> on the 3rd,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span> when a few miles past Point +Hargrave, being completely stopped by ice, we put +ashore and found a large wooden sledge, which +we cut up for fuel. The wood was evidently the +planks of some vessel (probably of the Fury or +Sir John Ross's steamer the Victory) as there +were holes in it bored with an auger. After +working our way a mile or two further, we arrived +at a high rocky cape having three elevations upon +it lying east and west from each other. This headland, +which was honoured with the name of the +lady of Sir John H. Pelly, Bart., Governor of the +Hudson's Bay Company, is situated in latitude +67° 28' N.; longitude by account 87° 40' W.; +variation of the compass 82° 36' W.</p> + +<p>It was low water to-day at 11 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span>, the fall of +the tide being 8½ feet, and the depth of water within +a hundred yards of the beach from 3 to 5 fathoms, +on a bottom of mud or sand.</p> + +<p>Shortly after noon a fog came on so thick that +we could only see a few yards round us; we, however, +pushed our way for 2½ miles beyond Cape +Lady Pelly, along a flat coast lined with mud banks +from eight to ten feet high, frozen solid within a +foot of the surface. At 4 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> the ice was too +closely packed to allow us to proceed; we therefore +turned towards the shore, and after some +trouble effected a landing. The fog still continued +so thick, that, after wandering about for a few miles, +I had much difficulty in finding the boat again, hid<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span> +as it was by the surrounding masses of ice. We +were much at a loss for drinkable water, there not +being a drop in the neighbourhood but what resembled +chocolate in appearance.</p> + +<p>In the forenoon some wolves, part of a band that +had serenaded us last night with their dismal howlings, +were seen prowling about; and a white-winged +silvery gull (<i>L. leucopterus</i>), a diminutive sandpiper +(<i>tringa minuta</i>), and a marmot were shot.</p> + +<p>4th.—There was a drizzling rain with thick +fog all night, but not a breath of wind. As +the tide flowed the ice moved slowly and silently +round us, so that in the morning we had not more +than a yard or two of open water near us, being +blocked in on all sides by pieces from 15 to 20 feet +thick. The rise of the tide was not less than nine +feet. In the forenoon I walked upwards of five +miles along the shore to the north-westward, passing +a few low sandy points about a mile and a half +from each other, which formed a succession of small +bays, into each of which a ravine with high and +steep mud banks opened, down which a streamlet of +pea-soup-coloured water flowed. We fell in with +the heads and horns of several musk cattle and reindeer, +and saw recent footmarks of some of the latter, +but they had probably been driven some distance +away by the wolves we saw yesterday. Marmots +were numerous in every direction, chattering to each +other, and rising on their hind legs to obtain a +better view of the strangers. Many golden plovers<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span> +and different kinds of sandpipers were flying about, +and a jager (<i>L. parasiticus</i>) was shot: some plants +were also collected. The travelling along this coast +was extremely fatiguing, being very often nearly +knee-deep in a very adhesive mud.</p> + +<p>The thermometer rose as high as 70° in the forenoon; +in the afternoon it fell to 48°; and in the +evening the weather was cold and unpleasant, with +heavy rain.</p> + +<p>5th.—During the greater part of last night the +rain continued, but it was perfectly calm, although +by the lead of the clouds we were in hopes of a +breeze of wind off shore. Our boat being in danger +of injury from some heavy masses of ice that were +turning over near us, we moved a dozen yards nearer +the land. Our new situation, however, was little +better than the one we had left, for as soon as the +tide began to ebb large pieces of our "enemy" broke +away and fell with a loud crash close alongside of +us. It was high-water this morning at 3 o'clock, +the rise of the tide being 11 feet 6 inches, whilst that +of yesterday evening was only 5½ feet, an irregularity +resembling that which was observed by Captain +Sir J. Ross on the shores of Boothia. The temperature +of the air in the morning was 46°, but rose to +65° during the day, which was very hazy, with occasional +showers and a fresh breeze off shore; but this +had not the slightest effect upon the ice, and led me +to believe that the Esquimaux report as to the navigation +being always obstructed here is correct.</p> + +<p>Seeing that there was no probability of our getting<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span> +along shore towards Dease and Simpson's farthest, +I determined to retrace our route, and if possible +cross over to Melville Peninsula for the purpose +of surveying its western shore, towards the Strait +of the Fury and Hecla.</p> + +<p>In the evening, when the tide, which on the present +occasion rose only 4½ feet, was in, we endeavoured +to extricate ourselves; and after some hours +of hard labour in chopping off some points of ice, +and pushing aside such pieces as were not aground, +we got a few hundred yards from the beach, and +into water a little more open.</p> + +<p>About half-past ten a young buck was observed +on a piece of ice half-a-mile to seaward, having been +forced to take the water to avoid some wolves, one or +two of which were seen skulking along shore watching +for the return of the animal. The state of our larder +did not permit us to be merciful, so the poor deer +had little chance of escape from his biped and quadruped +enemies when acting in concert. After a +long chase he was shot whilst swimming from one +floe to another. Having pulled and poled along +shore all night, we landed for breakfast at 8 h. 30 m. +<span class="smcap">A.M.</span>, on the 6th, about three miles to the south of +Point Hargrave. The continued rain and fog had +so completely saturated everything with damp that +we had not a dry stitch of clothes to put on, and +our bedding and fuel were in the same state; fortunately +the weather was mild, so that we did not feel +much inconvenience from this.</p> + +<p>Finding that the ice was clearing away a little—the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span> +effect of a south-east wind,—we directed our +course towards the nearest point of Melville Peninsula, +which bore east (true) of us, distant ten miles, +and after threading our way among much heavy +and close-packed floes, which obliged us to make +frequent and long detours, after five hours' hard +work we reached the land during a thunder-storm +accompanied by torrents of rain.</p> + +<p>Our landing place was a long rocky point having +a deep ice-filled inlet on its south side. To this +point I gave the name of Cape Thomas Simpson, +after the late enterprising traveller of that name.</p> + +<p>As we could not proceed on account of the thick +fog and the state of the ice, we secured the boat to +the rocks, and the men although drenched to the skin +went immediately to sleep, eighteen hours of hard +work at the oars and ice-poles having thoroughly +tired them all.</p> + +<p>During the night of the 6th the weather was thick +with occasional rain, but about 6 in the morning of +the 7th a fresh breeze from the south-east dispersed +the fog. As soon as it was cleared up we renewed +our voyage, but our progress was very slow, having +our old opponent to contend with; in four hours we +gained as many miles and were again stopped. Seeing +some deer near the beach, we landed, and whilst +two of us had a fruitless chase after them the remainder +of the party were busy cooking and drying +our clothes, blankets, &c. The temperature of the +air was 52°, that of the water 35°.</p> + +<p>The breeze<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span> gradually increased as the day advanced, +and went round to the east, which drove +the ice a short distance from the shore. We embarked +again between 9 and 10 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span>, and ran to +the eastward for a league or more, when the breeze +having changed into a heavy gale, our boat ran great +risk of being injured by the ice, of which we found +it impossible to keep altogether clear. We therefore +pulled up to a number of grounded pieces (a +line of which completely barred us from the shore), +and made fast to the largest of them. In getting +this far we were in much danger from the falling, or +breaking off, of overhanging masses (some of them +20 feet in height), which were crashing all around +us, and under which we had frequently to pass. At +5 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> our floe got afloat, and began driving to +leeward at a great rate. We just got the boat clear +in time to prevent its being crushed against a berg +that still remained fast. Some of the smaller pieces +lying between us and the land having now floated, +we managed to clear a passage for ourselves; yet +although we had only a quarter of a mile to go, so +strong was the gale that it required the utmost exertions +of six men at the oars to reach the shore, when, +having secured the boat and raised an oilcloth to +keep off the rain, which had again commenced, we +had our supper of pemmican and water, and retired +to bed for the night.</p> + +<p>8th.—On getting up this morning I found that +it had become quite calm, and that the ice was coming<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span> +in so thick and fast with the flood tide, that we +had to move from our position as fast as possible. +On pushing out to sea it soon became apparent that +we could not proceed on our course, and that there +was but little open water in the direction from +whence we had come, and even that was fast filling +up. As we could neither advance nor remain in +safety where we were, there was only one course +open to us, and that was to return towards the place +from which we had started.</p> + +<p>It was now evident that this large bay was completely +full of ice; for had this not been the case, the +gale of yesterday must have cleared the coast for many +miles. It was with a sad heart that I turned the head +of our boat towards our starting point, where I purposed +to await some favourable change in the state +of the ice, and at the same time learn how the +people left at Repulse Bay were getting on with +preparations for wintering, which now appeared +inevitable. The weather continued so much overcast +that no observations could be obtained. In the +afternoon a light breeze sprang up from W.N.W., +which enabled us to reach in a short time Ross +Inlet, where we had some trouble in finding the +entrance of the river on account of the altered appearance +of the rocks, it being now nearly low water +and the shore clear of ice, compared with what it +formerly was. We had much difficulty in towing +up to the Salt Lake before mentioned, as the narrow +but deep channel which led to it was, at this state of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span> +the tide, one continued rapid, and so strong was the +force of the stream that our tracking line broke. +We were soon snug in the Salt Lake, but had not +been more than half an hour under shelter before +almost every spot of open water outside was filled +with ice, so rapidly had it followed in our wake.</p> + +<p>When we arrived opposite the tents of our Esquimaux +friends, they came running down to the beach +led on by the old lady whose fluency of speech I +have already remarked, and who appeared determined +to sustain her character on this occasion by +making more noise than all the others put together, +and expressing her joy at our return by loud shouts. +The old people had during our absence been joined +by the musk-ox hunters, two fine young active-looking +fellows (named Ark-shuk and I-vit-chuck) and their +wives. These women were the cleanest and best-looking +I had yet seen. They were tatooed much +in the same way as those at Repulse Bay. The +hunters said they had been unsuccessful, but as +each of the women had the tail, or a portion of the +shaggy hair of the neck, of a musk-ox in her hand +as a musquito flapper, their veracity was rather +doubted. There was only one child with them, a +sickly-looking boy of six or seven years, stepson to +a man named Shi-shak, who arrived about an hour +after us in his kayak from an unprofitable walrus +hunt.</p> + +<p>I learnt from our Esquimaux acquaintances that +the deer had commenced migrating southward.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span> +This being the case, I prepared to walk across to +Repulse Bay to see what progress the party left +there had made in their work. The weather had +been so cloudy for the last week that no observations +of any value could be obtained.</p> + +<p>Leaving three men and Ouligbuck's son in charge +of the boat, I started at 6.30 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> on the 9th, in company +with Corrigal, N. Germain, and Matheson, to +cross the isthmus, taking a S.S.E. direction; but it +was impossible to keep this course for any great +distance, as we were forced to make long circuits to +avoid precipices and arms of lakes. After a most +fatiguing day's march over hill and dale, through +swamp and stream, we halted at half-past 6 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> +close to the second portage crossed on our outward +route. To gain a distance of twenty miles we had +travelled not less than thirty. Our supper was soon +finished, as it was neither luxurious nor required +much cooking, consisting of our staple commodities +pemmican "cold with water."</p> + +<p>10th.—The morning was raw and cold with some +hoar frost, and there not being a blanket among the +party and only two coats, our sleep was neither +long, sound, nor refreshing. In fact I had carried +no coat with me except a thin Macintosh, which, +being damp from the rain of yesterday, had become +an excellent conductor of caloric, and added to the +chilly feeling instead of keeping it off.</p> + +<p>There is one advantage in an uncomfortable bed; +it induces early rising, and it proved so in the present<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span> +instance, for we had finished breakfast and +resumed our journey by half-past 2 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> The +travelling was as difficult as that of yesterday, but +we had the advantage of a cool morning and got on +more easily. At 7 o'clock we arrived at the narrows +which separate Christie and North Pole Lakes, +where we found the greater number of the Esquimaux +we had seen, encamped, waiting for deer +crossing over. Some of them immediately got into +their kayaks and paddled across to our side of the +lake, but with so much caution that it was evident +we had not yet wholly gained their confidence.</p> + +<p>At 2 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> we arrived at Repulse Bay with most +enviable appetites, but rather foot-sore, our shoes +and socks having been entirely worn through long +before we reached our destination.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER IV.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>State of things at Repulse Bay—Determine to discontinue the +survey till the spring—Reasons—Party sent to bring over the +boat—Fix on a site for winter residence—Ptarmigan—Laughing +geese—Eider and king ducks—Visits of natives too frequent—Return +of the party sent for the boat—Report the bay more +closely packed than before—Preparations for wintering—Fort +Hope built—Proceed to North Pole and Christie Lakes to look +out for fishing stations—Purchase dogs—Wariness of the deer—Flocks +of geese pass southward—Blue-winged and snow-geese—Their +habits—Snow-storm—Its effects—Return to Fort +Hope—Daily routine—Signs of winter—Deer numerous—Quantity +of game killed—Provision-store built of snow—Great +fall of snow—Effects of the cold—Adventure with a deer—Visited +by a party of natives—Their report of the ice westward +of Melville Peninsula—An island said to be wooded—Produce +of the chase in October—Temperature—Two observatories +built of snow—Band of wolves—A party caught in a snow-storm—Esquimaux +theory of the heavenly bodies—Temperature +of November—Diminished supply of provisions.</p></div> + +<p>On our arrival at Repulse Bay we found the men +all well, but getting no more fish and venison than +was barely sufficient to support them. Having +taken but a scanty breakfast, I fully enjoyed my +dinner here, but I reversed the usual order of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span> +eating the same, taking my venison steak first (it +being soonest cooked), and salmon as second course.</p> + +<p>This was to me the most anxious period during +the expedition; nor will this appear strange when +I mention that it was necessary to decide, and +that promptly, on one of two modes of proceeding, +namely, whether to leave the whole survey +to be completed during the following spring and +summer, or to endeavour to follow it up this +autumn. After mature consideration I determined +on adopting the first of these measures, and giving +up all hopes of prosecuting the survey at present.</p> + +<p>My reasons for arriving at this conclusion I shall +briefly mention, as such a step may appear rather +premature. I saw from the state of the ice and the +prevalence of northerly winds that there was no +probability of completing the whole of the proposed +survey this season; and although part of the coast, +either towards the Strait of Fury and Hecla, or +towards Dease and Simpson's farthest, might be +traced, yet to accomplish even this might detain +us so long that there would be no time to make the +necessary preparations for wintering, and we should +thus be under the necessity of returning to Churchill +without accomplishing the object of the expedition, +or, if we remained at Repulse Bay, run the risk of +starving, for I could obtain no promise of supplies +from the natives, and all the provisions we had +carried with us would not go far to support the +party throughout the winter. We should thus have<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span> +to depend almost, if not altogether, upon our own +exertions for the means of existence both in regard +to food and fuel.</p> + +<p>It ought to be borne in mind that we were differently +situated from any party that had hitherto +gone to these cold and barren regions. The resources +of the country were quite unknown to us; it +was not likely that the deer would remain near at +hand all winter, as we were at too great a distance +from the woods; and it was very evident, for the +same reason, that we should not be able to procure +any sort of fuel after the first fall of snow, which +there was little doubt would occur some time in +September.</p> + +<p>Before reaching the Arctic Sea to the west +of Melville Peninsula, I was for various reasons +inclined to agree with the opinion of Sir John Ross, +"that Boothia was part of the continent of America." +This opinion was strengthened when I observed +the great rise and fall of the tide, which +must have affected the tides at the Castor and +Pollux River, had there been a strait of any width +separating Boothia from the mainland, unless indeed +the assumption of Captain Sir J. Ross, that "the +sea to the west of Boothia stands at a higher level +than that on the east side," be correct. In that case +there would be a continual easterly current, which +could scarcely fail to have been noticed by so acute +an observer as Simpson.</p> + +<p>Retaining one man with myself to guard our<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span> +stores and attend the nets, on the 11th I sent over +the remaining six to assist in bringing over the +boat. Ouligbuck had now been about two days +looking for deer, and I began to feel anxious about +him, when he made his appearance between 9 +and 10 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> with the venison of a young deer on +his back.</p> + +<p>As soon as my companion had returned from the +nets, out of which he got no fish, I took a walk for +the purpose of looking out for fishing stations and +a site for our winter house. For the latter I could +find no better place than a narrow but not deep +valley within a few hundred yards of our landing-place, +and about a hundred and fifty from North +Pole River on its east side. There appeared to be +various small bays along shore to the eastward +which were likely to produce fish. A flock of +laughing geese (<i>anser albifrons</i>) flew past quite +close to me; but having only my rifle, I could but +send a ball after them and missed as was to be +expected.</p> + +<p>In a small pond an eider-duck was observed with +her young brood apparently not more than twelve +days old. The male eider and king ducks had +already left this quarter, having migrated to the +southward.</p> + +<p>12th.—A cloudy day with a strong breeze from +N.N.W. Two salmon and a trout were got from +the nets, but Ouligbuck killed no deer. In the +evening, when on my way to set a net in a lake<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span> +at no great distance, I fell in with a covey of +ptarmigan, (<i>T. rupestris</i>), most of the young being +strong on the wing, and bagged eighteen brace in +an hour or two. Knocking down those birds on this +day made me half fancy myself among the grouse +in my own barren native hills.</p> + +<p>On the 13th the weather was raw and cold with +frequent showers, and a gale of wind from the same +quarter as the day before. Four salmon were caught, +and a deer was shot. The thermometer varied from +36° to 38°. Four Esquimaux men and two women +visited us to-day.</p> + +<p>The 14th was much like the 13th, but there was +no rain. As the visits of the natives had now +become rather frequent, and as they brought nothing +with them, but appeared to expect both food and +presents, I bade Ouligbuck say that we could not +afford to feed them any longer, and that they had +better return to their huts, where I knew they were +killing deer enough to support themselves. On returning +from my daily walk, I found that our friends +had taken leave rather hurriedly, having been detected +appropriating some salt fish, which they could +not eat. For this they were sharply reprimanded +by the interpreter, and one of the ladies was most +ungallantly accused by her husband of being the +offender. Corrigal and I hauled the seine in the +evening and caught thirty-three salmon; fourteen +more were got out of the nets.</p> + +<p>15th.—This was a beautiful day throughout. In<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span> +the evening, the sky being clear and cloudless, some +stars were visible, and a few streaks of orange-coloured +aurora showed themselves to the southward. +The seine was again hauled, and thirty-two +salmon (some of them very small) caught, whilst +the nets produced eleven more. Just as we were +landing our fish, the men who had been taking +over the boat made their appearance, being a day +earlier than I expected. By keeping the proper +route three of the portages were avoided, and they +had the advantage of a fine fair breeze all through +the lakes. The large bay (Akkoolee) was reported +as being more closely packed with ice than before. +This was nothing but what I should have expected +after the late north-westerly winds.</p> + +<p>The two Esquimaux, Arkshuk and Ivitchuk, +("Anglice" Aurora and Walrus,) who had been +engaged to aid in dragging the boat over the portages, +had wrought well, and readily accommodated +themselves to the habits of the men. They were +well recompensed; and Ivitchuk (a merry little +fellow) was engaged to accompany me on my +intended spring journeys.</p> + +<p>The boat was for the present left at North Pole +Lake, as it might still be required there.</p> + +<p>The 16th was a day of rest, and the 17th was so +stormy and wet that little work could be done.</p> + +<p>All hands were now busily employed making +preparations for a long and dreary winter; for this +purpose four men were set to work to collect stones<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span> +for building a house, whilst the others were occupied +in setting nets, hunting deer, and gathering +fuel. Our work was much impeded by rainy +weather, particularly the house building, as the +clay or mud was washed away as soon as applied.</p> + +<p>We found that our nets were so much cut up by a +small marine insect from a half to three-quarters of +an inch long, resembling a shrimp in miniature—the +favourite food of the salmon—that it was quite +impossible to keep them in repair. I thought to +destroy their taste for hemp by steeping the nets +in a strong decoction of tobacco, but it had no +effect.</p> + +<p>On the 2nd September our house was finished; +its internal dimensions were 20 feet long by 14 feet +broad, height in front 7½ feet, sloping to 5½ at the +back. We formed a very good roof by using the +oars and masts of our boats as rafters, and covering +them with oilcloth and moose skin, the latter being +fixed to the lower or inside of the rafters, whilst +the former was placed on the outside to run off the +rain. The door was made of parchment deer-skins +stretched over a frame of wood. The walls were +fully two feet thick, with three small openings, in +which a like number of windows, each having two +panes of glass, were placed.</p> + +<p>Our establishment was dignified with the name of +Fort Hope, and was situated in 66° 32' 16" N.; longitude +(by a number of sets of lunar distances with +objects on both sides of the moon) 86° 55' 51" W.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span> +The variation of the compass on 30th August was +62° 50' 30" W.; mean dip of the needle, and the +mean twice of a hundred vertical vibrations in the +line of declination 226".</p> + +<p>A sort of room was formed at one end by putting +up a partition of oilcloth. In this, besides its +serving as my quarters, all our pemmican and some +of the other stores were stowed away.</p> + +<p>From the 5th to the 13th I was up at North Pole +and Christie Lakes in the boat with three men, our +object being to look out for fishing stations, and +also to purchase dogs from the Esquimaux. The +wind being from the north, we did not reach the +Esquimaux encampment till the 10th. They had +shifted their tents from the narrows to a small point +about eight miles up Christie Lake, where the deer +were more numerous, among which they seemed +to have made great havoc, to judge by the abundance +of skins and venison lying in all directions. +Our friends were delighted to see us, and had +improved much in appearance, the only poor animals +about them being their dogs, which appeared to get +no more to eat than was barely sufficient to keep +them in life. I looked out four of the best, being +all I wanted at present, for which I promised a +dagger each, intending to take them with us on our +return. During our stay here a band of deer came +to the edge of the lake, and after feeding a short +time took the water. Three of the natives slipped +noiselessly into their kayaks, and lay waiting, until<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span> +the deer were far enough out in the water, to intercept +them, but just as they were on the eve of starting +the wind changed a little, and the deer smelling +their enemy wheeled about, and were soon in safety +on the beach from which they had started.</p> + +<p>Many large flocks of Hutchins and snow geese +had been seen for the last few days passing to the +southward. The blue-winged goose of Edwards is +by some ornithologists considered as the young of +the last named bird in one of its stages towards +maturity, but this opinion I believe to be erroneous, +for the following reasons.</p> + +<p>During a ten years' residence at Moose Factory, +on the shores of Hudson's Bay, I had many opportunities, +every spring and autumn, of observing both +the snow and the blue-winged goose in their passage +to and from their breeding places, the marshes +near Moose being favourite feeding ground.</p> + +<p>In spring both species are very nearly alike in +size, the blue-winged goose, although shorter, being +rather the heavier bird. In the autumn there are +four distinct varieties, two of which exactly resemble +in size and plumage those seen in the spring, whilst +the others are much smaller, and differ much from +these and from each other in their markings; the +young of the snow goose being of a light grey +colour, darkest on the head and upper part of the +neck; whilst the young of the blue-winged goose is +of a dark slate colour, approaching to black on the +head and neck. Neither do the young separate<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span> +from the old, as has been asserted; for families may +be seen feeding by themselves all over the marshes, +the old bird keeping a sharp look-out, and giving +timely warning to her brood of any approaching +danger. In fact the Indian, who has thoroughly +studied the habits of the bird, takes advantage of her +affection for her young, and of their attachment to +their parent, to make both his prey. Well knowing +that the young are easily decoyed by imitating their +call and by mock geese set up in the marsh, and that +the old bird, although more shy, will follow them, he +waits patiently until she comes within range; if he +shoots her he is pretty sure to kill the greater part +of the others, as they continue to fly over and +around the place for some time after.</p> + +<p>During the night of the 10th, when near the north +end of the lake, we experienced one of the severest +snow storms I ever witnessed. As we were sleeping +on shore we never thought of putting up any sort +of shelter; the consequence was that in the morning +we were covered with snow to the depth of a foot. +Our boat, which had been hauled up on the beach, +was blown away from her fastenings, and carried +several hundred yards into the lake among some +stones. Being the only one of the party provided +on the spot with Macintosh boots, it fell to my lot +to wade out to the boat, throw overboard the ballast, +lift her bows over the stones, and take a line +to the shore; which, from having miscalculated the +depth of the water, I found a more disagreeable<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span> +task than I had expected. Fortunately the boat +sustained no injury. It was now about 6 o'clock +in the morning of the 11th, and as the storm continued +unabated we made a sort of tent of our sails. +In doing this the men got so wet and cold, from the +snow thawing on them, that they could not even +light their pipes.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon the weather improved, and we +were able to scrape a little fuel together, with which +we cooked some salmon and boiled a kettle of tea, +which made us feel quite comfortable again. We +thus combined breakfast, dinner, and supper in +one meal.</p> + +<p>The hares had already acquired their winter coat, +and the golden plovers and sandpipers had all disappeared, +but some Lapland and snow-buntings and +the shore-lark were still to be seen.</p> + +<p>A little after noon on the 13th the wind shifted +to the S.W., and we got under weigh to return home. +A couple of hours brought us to the Esquimaux, +where we stopped to take on board our dogs. A +young lad also came with us to carry some medicine +for the patriarch of the tribe, who was labouring +under various complaints peculiar to old age. We +arrived at North Pole River at 6 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, having had +a beautiful run all the way.</p> + +<p>As we were not likely to require the boat on the +lakes again this season, she was hauled up and placed +in security for the winter. While at the lake we had +not been able to procure much more food than was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span> +necessary for our own use, but this may in part have +been attributable to the bad weather.</p> + +<p>The storm of the 10th had been much felt at our +house, and so great was its force that the boat left +there was lifted a few yards by it, but received no +injury. Much heavy ice was driven into the bay +and lay heaped up all along the shore.</p> + +<p>Our house was still far from comfortable, the clay +being quite wet and producing a most unpleasant +feeling of dampness,—far more disagreeable than a +much lower temperature with dry weather.</p> + +<p>Our time was now continually occupied in collecting +fuel, (portions of which, as soon as it became +dry, were built up into small heaps on the +rocks near the house,) in fishing, and in shooting +deer and partridges.</p> + +<p>The routine of our day's work was as follows: in +the morning we were up before day-light; the men +got their orders for the several duties they had to +perform, which were principally carried on out of +doors, and at which they set to work immediately +after rolling up their bedding and taking breakfast. +This meal usually consisted of boiled venison, the +water with which it was cooked being converted +into a very excellent soup by the addition of some +deer's blood, and a handful or two of flour.</p> + +<p>Our dinner, or rather supper, consisted of the same +materials as our breakfast, and was taken about 4 or 5 +o'clock; after that, my time was employed in writing +my journal or making calculations; whilst the men<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span> +were busy improving themselves in reading, arithmetic, +&c., in which I assisted them as much as my +time would permit. Divine service was read every +Sunday when practicable.</p> + +<p>On the 20th the pools of water were covered +with ice sufficiently strong to be walked upon, and on +the 28th some hooks were set under the ice on the +lakes for trout. During the latter part of the month +deer were very numerous. As many as seventeen +were shot on the 28th, and on the following day ten +more were got, seven of which were killed by myself +within a few miles of the house. On the 29th +a considerable portion of the bay was frozen over, +and the seals were seen popping up their heads +every now and then through the ice to keep breathing +places open.</p> + +<p>The weather during this month having been very +changeable and stormy, and unfavourable for observations +of all kinds, the sextant had frequently +been exchanged for the rifle—a not unwelcome exchange +to one addicted to field-sports "from his +youth upwards."</p> + +<p>Our sporting book for the month showed that we +had been doing something towards laying in a stock +of provisions for winter; 63 deer, 5 hares, one seal, +172 partridges, and 116 salmon and trout, had been +brought in.</p> + +<p>October.—During the first part of this month +some of the men were employed in building a store +of snow for our provisions, and covering it with two<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span> +of the sails. On the 12th and three following days +there was one continued storm which drifted the +snow all round the house as high as the roof, and +on the night of the 15th would have choked all our +dogs that were chained outside, had not Adamson +and another got up and cut their fastenings. On +the 16th, when it cleared up, the thermometer first +fell to zero.</p> + +<p>The cold had now penetrated in-doors and frozen +the clay on the walls, which made us much more comfortable. +On attempting to open some books that +had been lying on a shelf, I was surprised to find +that the leaves were all frozen together; when I +mention this, and also that our powder horns +and every other article that was bound with brass +or silver burst their fastenings, some idea may be +formed of the dampness of our house whilst the clay +on the walls was wet.</p> + +<p>On the 19th, when out shooting, having killed +one deer, I went in pursuit of another (a large +buck) that had been wounded, and put four balls +through him. Thinking that the last ball had +settled the business, (for he had fallen,) I went +carelessly up to him without re-loading my rifle, +and when within a few yards I believe I apostrophized +the animal much in the following strain—"Ah! +poor fellow, you are done for at last!" +when the deer, as if he had understood what I said, +and thought I was adding insult to injury, sprung +to his legs in a moment, and at a couple of bounds<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span> +his horns were within a foot of me. Circumstanced +as I was, I thought with Falstaff "that discretion +was the better part of valour", and beat a hasty +retreat, laughing heartily all the time at the strange +figure we must have made. Taking the deer by the +horns could have been of no use, and might have +cost me some troublesome bruises and scratches.</p> + +<p>Twelve Esquimaux and a boy visited us on the +23rd; among whom was the man (named Shi-ma-kuk) +to whom the sledge belonged, part of which we had +used for fuel when near Cape Lady Pelly with the +boat. He was now rewarded, and apparently so +much to his satisfaction that he would have had no +objections to have another sledge burnt on the same +terms. They reported that the bay, to the west of +Melville Peninsula, had been packed full of ice ever +since we were over there, until a few days before +they came away, when there was some open water +to be seen. Besides purchasing five dozen rein-deer +tongues, a seal-skin full of oil, and some other articles, +we added two good dogs to our team.</p> + +<p>Among other information they told me that there +was an island in Akkoolee (the large bay west of +Melville Peninsula,) named Sha-took, (which means +low or flat,) on which large trees grew; but they +acknowledged that none of them had ever been on +the island, although they had been near enough to +see the trees distinctly. In this I believe their +imaginations had deceived them, aided perhaps in +some degree by a peculiar state of the atmosphere,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span> +during which the appearance of the land has been +so distorted that it has been mistaken for woods. +Some round sticks, probably spars belonging to one +of the two vessels left in Prince Regent's Inlet, +having been picked up along the west shore of +Melville Peninsula, had no doubt strengthened the +opinion they had formed. Two of their party whom +we had never seen, were drowned in Miles Lake by +falling through the ice; the one in chasing a deer, +and the other, it is supposed, in attempting to save +his companion.</p> + +<p>Our visitors left us on the 25th, promising to +return soon with some deer-skin dresses. During +the whole of the month we were occupied much +the same way as in the previous one. Deer were +numerous during the first part of it, but scarce +latterly; sixty-nine were shot, but the produce of +our nets had fallen very low, eighteen salmon and +four trout being all we caught. The highest temperature +of the month was 38°, whilst the lowest was +15°. Although there was a great deal of very +stormy weather, there were some clear calm nights, +of which I took advantage to obtain lunar distances.</p> + +<p>Two observatories had been built of snow, with a +pillar of ice in each (at the suggestion of Captain +Lefroy, R.A.), the one for the dip circle, the other +for an horizontally suspended needle to try the +effects of the aurora upon it.</p> + +<p>So much snow had fallen that it lay four feet<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span> +deep on the roof of our meat store, and was near +breaking the masts which supported it; so that we +were obliged to raise its walls about a fathom to +prevent such an occurrence in future.</p> + +<p>On the 4th November, when out looking for deer +a little before day-light in the morning, I observed +a band of animals coming over a rising ground at a +quick pace directly towards me. I at first supposed +them to be deer, but on a nearer approach they +proved to be wolves, seventeen in number. They +continued to advance at full speed until within forty +yards, when they formed a sort of half circle to leeward. +Hoping to send a ball through one of them, +I knelt down and took what I thought a sure aim at +a large fellow that was nearest; unfortunately it was +not yet broad day-light, and the rascals all kept end +on to me, so that the ball merely cut off a line of +hair and a piece of skin from his side. They apparently +did not expect to meet with such a reception, +for after looking at me a second or two they +trotted off, no doubt as much disappointed at not +making a breakfast of me as I was at missing my +aim. Had they come to close quarters (which they +sometimes do when pressed hard for food) I had a +large and strong knife which would have proved a +very efficient weapon. On my way home I shot +three hares.</p> + +<p>On the 5th two partridges were shot which very +much resembled the tetrao saliceti, but which I +suppose to be the T. mutus. The parasitę found on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span> +them differed from those usually found on the willow +grouse.</p> + +<p>We began during this month to find that we +could not afford fuel to dry our clothes; I therefore +adopted the plan that a celebrated miser took to +warm his food, by taking them under the blankets +with me at night, and drying them by the heat of +the body. This, it may be supposed, was not very +agreeable, particularly when the weather became +colder, for the moisture froze during the day on the +blankets, which sparkled with hoar frost when I +went to bed.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon of the 9th we had one of the +most severe snow storms that had yet been experienced, +and I was much alarmed at the non-arrival +of four men who had gone in the morning to +examine some nets and set others in North Pole +Lake eight miles from the house. Guns were fired +to attract the attention of the party, who made their +appearance at half-past 8 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, when we had given +up all hopes of seeing them until the following day. +They had been upwards of eight hours in coming as +many miles, and were like walking pillars of snow +when they came in. The four dogs they had with +them were still missing, having run off with the +sled as soon as they smelt the house. On the following +day they were found entangled with one +another, and the sled stuck fast against some rocks. +One or two of the dogs were completely covered +up with snow, but all safe.</p> + +<p>About 2 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> on the 25th,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span> two Esquimaux men +and a boy, named Arkshuk (Aurora Borealis), +Took-oo-lak (the falling stick), and Che-mik-tee +(snuff), came to see us with deer-skin clothes, &c. +for barter.</p> + +<p>I had a good deal of conversation through the +interpreters with Arkshuk, whom I found rather +intelligent and communicative. It appears that the +favourite food of these Esquimaux is musk-ox flesh; +venison ranks next, and bear and walrus are preferred +to seal and fish. Their theory regarding the +sun and moon is rather peculiar. It is said that +many years ago, not long after the creation of the +world, there was a mighty conjuror (Esquimaux of +course), who gained so much power that at last he +raised himself up into the heavens, taking with him +his sister (a beautiful girl) and a fire. To the latter +he added great quantities of fuel, which thus formed +the sun. For some time he and his sister lived in +great harmony, but at last they disagreed, and he, in +addition to maltreating the lady in many ways, at +last scorched one side of her face. She had suffered +patiently all sorts of indignities, but the spoiling of +her beauty was not to be borne; she therefore ran +away from him and formed the moon, and continues +so until this day. Her brother is still in chase of +her, but although he sometimes gets near, he will +never overtake her. When it is new moon, the +burnt side of the face is towards us; when full +moon, the reverse is the case.</p> + +<p>The stars<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span> are supposed to be the spirits of the +dead Esquimaux that have fixed themselves in the +heavens, and falling stars, or meteors, and the aurora +borealis, are those spirits moving from one place to +another whilst visiting their friends.</p> + +<p>The highest, lowest, and mean temperature of +November were respectively +28°, -25°, and ++0.68. Only twelve deer, nine hares, and a few +partridges had been shot, whilst our nets produced +about sixty fish, the greater part of which were small.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER V.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Winter arrangements completed—Learn to build snow houses—Christmas-day—North Pole +River frozen to the bottom—1st +January—Cheerfulness of the men—Furious snow-storm—Observatories +blown down—Boat buried under the snow—Ouligbuck +caught in the storm—Dog attacked by a wolf—Party +of natives take up their residence near Fort Hope—Esquimaux +mentioned by Sir John Ross known to them—Boat +dug out of the snow—A runaway wife—Deer begin to migrate +northward—A wolf-chase—First deer of the season shot—Difficulty +of deer-hunting in spring—Dimensions of an Esquimaux +canoe—Serious accident to Ouligbuck—A conjuror—Preparations +for the journey northward—Temperature—Aurora +Borealis.</p></div> + +<p>During December we completed our various +buildings, and formed passages under the snow, so +that we could without exposure go to any of them. +There were four houses, viz.: one for provisions, +another for fuel, a third for oil, dog's meat, &c., and +a fourth for the men's spare luggage, for which +there was no room in the dwelling-house, and +which had been stowed in the tents until it was +found necessary to take them down.</p> + +<p>Being<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span> desirous of requiring as little assistance +from the Esquimaux as possible, I attempted to +build a snow house after the native fashion, and +succeeded tolerably well; finding that the process +was not so difficult as I anticipated, after a few +trials one or two of the men became very good +masons. We had now no encouragement to move +much about, as there was no game to be seen, and +the weather was very unsettled, and consequently +no more exercise was taken than was necessary to +keep us in good health. In stormy weather, not +being able to get out of doors, the men wrestled or +played some game which called the muscles into +action, and thus kept up the animal heat.</p> + +<p>On the 21st, the sun's lower limb rose about +double his diameter above a rising ground to the +southward, on a level with Fort Hope. On the 23rd +and 24th, whilst looking out some good venison for +our Christmas dinner, we examined our stock of +such provisions, and found that we had not enough +to last us until the return of the deer in spring; +fortunately we had still a good supply of pemmican +left.</p> + +<p>Christmas-day was passed very agreeably, but +the weather was so stormy and cold that only a very +short game at foot-ball could be played. Short as it +was, however, it was sufficiently amusing, for our +faces were every moment getting frost-bitten either +in one place or another, so as to require the continual +application of the hand; and the rubbing, running<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span> +about, and kicking the ball all at the same time, produced +a very ludicrous effect.</p> + +<p>Our dinner was composed of excellent venison +and a plum-pudding, with a moderate allowance of +brandy punch to drink a health to absent friends.</p> + +<p>For some time past, washing the face had been +rather an unpleasant operation, as any water that +got among the hair froze upon it immediately. +This is mentioned by Sir George Back as having +occurred once to him at Fort Reliance, in 1833. On +the 28th, North Pole River got frozen to the +bottom, so that we were forced to go to a lake to +the S.W. of Beacon Hill, about half a mile distant, +for water.</p> + +<p>The 1st of January was as beautiful a day as +we could have wished to begin the new year with. +There was a light air of wind, and the temperature +varied from -23° to -26°. After a most excellent +breakfast of fat venison steaks, all the party were +occupied for some hours with a spirited game at +foot-ball, at which there was much fun, the snow +being so hard and slippery that several pairs of +heels might be seen in the air at the same time.</p> + +<p>My dinner consisted of part of a hare and rein-deer +tongue, with a currant pudding as second course. +The men's mess was much like my own, except that +they had venison instead of hare. A small supply +of brandy was served out, and on the whole I do +not believe that a more happy company could have +been found in America, large as it is. 'Tis true that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span> +an agreeable companion to join me in a glass of +punch, to drink a health to absent friends, to speak +of by-gone times and speculate on the future, might +have made the evening pass more pleasantly, yet I +was far from unhappy. To hear the merry joke, the +hearty laugh, and lively song among my men, was +of itself a source of much pleasure.</p> + +<p>On the 7th the tracks of a few deer were unexpectedly +seen within a few miles of the house; +and on the following day the thermometer showed a +temperature of -47°, the lowest we experienced +during the winter.</p> + +<p>The 9th was a more disagreeable day than any +we had yet had. A storm from the north with thick +snow-drift, and a temperature of 72° below the +freezing point, made it feel bitterly cold. Fortunately +we had some days before made a house for our dogs, +else they must have inevitably been frozen to death. +Such was the force of the gale for two days that +both observatories were completely demolished, +and wherever the snow banks projected in the +slightest degree above the surrounding level, they +were worn away by the friction of the snow-drift as +if cut with a knife.</p> + +<p>The thermometer indoors varied from 29° to 40° +below the freezing point; which would not have been +unpleasant where there was a fire to warm the hands +and feet, or even room to move about; but where +there was neither the one nor the other, some few +degrees more heat would have been preferable.</p> + +<p>As we could<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span> not go for water we were forced to +thaw snow, and take only one meal each day. My +waistcoat after a week's wearing became so stiff from +the condensation and freezing of my breath upon it, +that I had much trouble to get it buttoned.</p> + +<p>The gale did not subside until the 15th, when we +were busily employed repairing the damages done +by the wind and drift. As a great weight of snow +had lodged upon our boat, we were afraid she might +be injured by the pressure, and some of the men +were employed to search for her, but there was +some difference of opinion about her exact situation, +and it was two days before she was found, after +digging to the depth of eight feet.</p> + +<p>A stick was set up at one end of the boat that there +might be no difficulty in finding the place again.</p> + +<p>One cause of discomfort to me was the great +quantity of tobacco smoke in our low and confined +house, it being sometimes so thick that no object +could be seen at a couple of yards' distance. The +whole party, with the exception of myself, were most +inveterate smokers; indeed it was impossible to be +awake for ten minutes during the night without +hearing the sound of the flint and steel striking a +light. Of course I might to a great extent have put a +stop to this, but the poor fellows appeared to receive +so much comfort from the use of the pipe, that it +would have been cruelty to do so for the sake of +saving myself a trifling inconvenience.</p> + +<p>This month was so stormy that the most of our<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span> +time when we could get out of doors was passed in +clearing away the snow that drifted about our doors +and over the house, and in rebuilding and repairing. +The boat, and also the stick that had been set up as +a mark, were completely covered over. On the 18th +Ouligbuck had gone out to hunt, and did not return +till the 25th, after I had given up all hopes of ever +seeing him again in life. It appeared that he had +visited the Esquimaux at Christie Lake for the +purpose of speaking to them about not having kept +their promise regarding some oil that they said they +would bring to us, and which they had omitted to +do. He had been caught by the storm of the 18th +before he reached his friends, and was obliged to +build a snow hut, in which he passed the night +comfortably enough. On the following morning, +when it cleared up a little, he found that he was not +more than two hundred yards from his destination, +which the thickness of the weather on the previous +day had prevented him from seeing.</p> + +<p>One of the dogs we had lent this party to aid in +drawing some provisions to the coast had a narrow +escape from a wolf. Having broken loose she set +out on her return home, when she was attacked by +the wolf, and treated much in the same way that +Tam O'Shanter's mare was by Cutty Sark, for</p> + +<div class="poem"> +"The wolf had caught her by the rump,<br /> +And left poor Surie scarce a stump."<br /> +</div> + +<p>On the last day of January some Esquimaux, who<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span> +were to take up their quarters near us, arrived with +part of their luggage and provisions, and built +their snow house near the south side of Beacon Hill. +This would have been the best situation for our +establishment, as it was completely sheltered from +the northerly gales, but we were too late in making +the discovery.</p> + +<p>I visited the Esquimaux on the 1st February, and +found the old man, named Shishak, and his wife in +their comfortable house, which was so warm that +my waistcoat, which had been frozen quite stiff for +some time past, actually thawed. It was not easy +to learn any of the peculiarities of these people, +as Ouligbuck was rather shy about describing their +habits. Ouligbuck's son informed me that even in +winter they strip off all their clothes before going to +bed.</p> + +<p>When taking a walk on the 3rd I passed near the +Esquimaux, and found one of them repairing the +runners of his sledge. The substance used was a +mixture of moss chopped up fine, and snow soaked +in water, lumps of which are firmly pressed on the +sledge with the bare hand, and smoothed over so as +to have an even surface. The process occupied the +man nearly an hour, during the whole of which time +he did not put his hands in his mitts, nor did he +appear to feel the cold much, although the temperature +was 30° below zero.</p> + +<p>On the 4th Ouligbuck set his gun for a wolf that +had been prowling about for the last few days. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span> +usual mode is to fix the gun to two sticks with its +muzzle pointed to a bait placed at the distance of +fifteen or twenty yards, with a line attached to it, +the other end of which is fastened to the trigger; +but Ouligbuck's plan was quite different from this. +He enclosed the gun in a small snow house, in such +a manner that there was nothing visible but the +bait, which was not more than a foot from the +muzzle, so that the shot could scarcely miss the +head of the animal. When Ouligbuck went to +his gun next morning, he saw the track of the +wolf, and followed it to the dog-kennel, in which +he had comfortably taken up his quarters; he immediately +took the brute by the tail and dragged +him outside much against his will, when he was +soon dispatched with an ice-chisel. This animal +was very large, but in the last stage of starvation, +with a severe arrow or gun-shot wound in one +thigh. He measured 5 feet 9 inches from the nose +to the tip of the tail, (length of tail 1 foot 7 inches,) +and his height at the shoulder was 2 feet 8 inches.</p> + +<p>On the 7th a man named Ak-kee-ou-lik, who had +promised us four seal-skins of oil, arrived and said +that he could only let us have one, because the +bears had broken into his "cache" and devoured +nearly all its contents. This story I did not believe +at the time, and I afterwards found out that it was +false. I felt a good deal annoyed at the man's +not keeping his promise, because we had depended +much upon this supply for fuel and light.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span> +To save the former, we had during part of last +month taken only one meal a-day, and discontinued +the comfort of a cup of tea with our evening repast. +Of oil, our stock was so small, that we had been +forced to keep early and late hours, namely, lying +occasionally fourteen hours in bed, as we found that +to sit up in a house in which the temperature was +some degrees below zero, without either light or fire, +was not very pleasant. Fortunately we all enjoyed +excellent health, and our few discomforts, instead of +causing discontent, furnished us with subjects of +merriment. For instance, Hutchison about this +time had his knee frozen in bed, and I believe the +poor fellow (who by-the-bye was the softest of the +party) was afterwards very sorry for letting it be +known, as he got so heartily laughed at for his +effeminacy.</p> + +<p>On the 9th, one of the Esquimaux women (wife +of Keiktoo-oo) that came to see us, had a brass +wheel 1-1/3 or 2 inches in diameter fastened on her +dress as an ornament. It was evidently part of +some instrument, probably of some of those left by +Sir John Ross at Victoria Harbour. I wished to +purchase it, but she would not part with it.</p> + +<p>15th.—Akkeeoulik brought over a large and +heavy hoop of iron, which had been at one +time round the rudder head, bowsprit end, or +mast head of a vessel, as he said it had been +taken off a large stick. I did not buy it from him, +as he was in disgrace for having disappointed me<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span> +about the oil. About 1 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> on the same day a number +of the natives paid us a visit, among whom were +Ec-vu-chi, I-vit-chuk, and Ou-too-ouniak, three of +the most decent and best behaved of the party. They +brought us a quantity of venison, of which they had +still a large stock, and some of which they were now +willing to dispose of, as they found that they had +more than was requisite for their own consumption.</p> + +<p>They had frequently seen Ooblooria, Ikmallik, +and some of the other Esquimaux mentioned by +Sir John Ross, and I also further learnt that the man +with the wooden leg, named Tulluahiu, was dead, +but how long since I could not discover.</p> + +<p>The greater part of the men had been employed +for the last fourteen days digging away the snow +from the boat to relieve her from the pressure, as +she was covered up to the depth of more than twelve +feet. This was no easy task; however, we managed +it in the following manner. Having cut a narrow +opening through the snow down to the boat, we +erected a tackle over it and hoisted up the loose +snow, as it was removed with spades and axes. +After excavating a space the full length of the +boat, and clearing the snow out of it, the bow and +stern were alternately raised, and the blocks of snow +which were chopped from the top pushed underneath +to prevent its sinking down again. In this way +the men could work without exposure, and when the +weather was stormy the hole was covered with a sail, +so that the snow-drift could not interfere with our<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span> +labours. We had yesterday got her close to the +top of the snow roof, and to-day the weather being +fine she was hauled out and found to be uninjured, +except a small split in one of her thwarts caused by +the great weight. She was now placed in a situation +where there was no danger of her being again +drifted over.</p> + +<p>The Esquimaux left us on the 17th, having +behaved themselves in the most exemplary manner. +One of Akkeeoulik's wives (quite a young dame +with a most interesting squint) took this opportunity +of leaving her husband and putting herself under +the care of her father Outoo-ouniak, the alleged +cause of her dissatisfaction being that she did not +get enough to eat. The disconsolate man followed +the party for some distance in hopes of persuading +the runaway to return, but without success.</p> + +<p>Our fuel getting rather scarce, some of the men +were sent to dig among the snow for moss and +heather, and they usually got as much in a day as +would cook one meal, but as the spring advanced, +and the snow began to disappear, two men could +procure as much as we required. When the men +were taking a walk after divine service on the 21st, +they saw the traces of five deer going northward.</p> + +<p>On the 22nd Turner commenced making two +sledges for our spring journeys. They were to be +from 6 to 7 feet long, 17 inches broad, and 7 +inches high. The only wood we had for this purpose +was the battens with which the inside of our<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span> +boats was lined, it being necessary to nail three of +them together to form runners of the required +height. A wolf was shot by Ouligbuck during the +night within 10 yards of the door of the house, and +six or eight more were seen at no great distance off +in the morning.</p> + +<p>23rd. When taking my usual exercise, I came +upon a white owl feasting on a hare which it had +killed after a severe struggle, to judge by the +marks on the snow. Half of it was already eaten. +Another wolf was shot on the 25th at a set gun, +but there was nothing of him to be found in the +morning except a little hair and blood, all the rest +having been eaten or carried off by his companions. +Some more deer tracks were seen going northward. +On the 26th the height of Beacon Hill was found to +be 238 feet above the level of the sea at half-flood.</p> + +<p>Next day Nibitabo saw thirty deer and ten partridges, +but only shot two of the latter. The former +were in the middle of a large plain, and took good +care to keep out of gun-shot, much to the annoyance +of our deer-hunter, who is one of the keenest +sportsmen I have ever met with.</p> + +<p>There were two wolves wounded by Ouligbuck's +gun last night, one of which he caught before +breakfast. I went with him after the other in the +forenoon, and got sight of him about three miles from +the house. Although his shoulder was fractured, +he gave us a long race before we ran him down, +but at last we saw that he had begun to eat snow, a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span> +sure sign that he was getting fagged. When I +came up with him, so tired was he that I was +obliged to drive him on with the butt of my gun +in order to get him nearer home before knocking +him on the head. At last we were unable to make +him move on by any means we could employ. +Ferocity and cowardice, often if not always, go together. +How different was the behaviour of this +savage brute from that of the usually timid deer +under similar circumstances. The wolf crouched +down and would not even look at us, pull him about +and use him as we might; whereas I never saw a +deer that did not attempt to defend itself when brought +to bay, however severely wounded it might be.</p> + +<p>On the 1st March one of our sledges that had +been finished was tried, and found to answer well.</p> + +<p>The deer were now steadily migrating northward, +some being seen every day, but there were none +killed until the 11th, when one was shot by Nibitabo; +it proved to be a doe with young, the fœtus +being about the size of a rabbit. The sun had so +much power that my blankets by being exposed to +the air got completely dried, being the first time +that they had been free from ice for three months.</p> + +<p>Shortly after divine service on the 14th, Akkeeoulik, +who had gone some days before to his +father-in-law's to endeavour to reclaim his better +half, returned with his lost treasure, one of the most +lazy and dirty of the whole party, and a most +arrant thief to boot. Two deer were shot on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span> +15th, and two more on the 18th. Deer-hunting +had become very different from what it was in the +autumn.</p> + +<p>The greater part of the hollows which favoured +our approach in the latter season were now filled up +with snow, which, from wasting away underneath, +made so much noise under foot that in calm +weather it was almost impossible to get within shot. +The deer were besides continually moving about +in the most zig-zag directions, and were so much +startled at the report of a gun that it was evident +they had been a good deal hunted during the +winter.</p> + +<p>On the 20th Nibitabo was affected with inflammation +of the eyes, which was relieved by dropping +laudanum into them. On the 26th we made a +new water hole on the lake, when the ice was +found to be 6 feet 10 inches thick. I measured +the dimensions of an Esquimaux canoe, and found +them as follows:—length 21 feet, breadth amidships +19 inches, and depth where the person +sits 9½ inches. The timbers are one-half or five-eighths +of an inch square, and placed three inches +apart near the centre of the canoe, but gradually +increased to five inches at each end. The cross-bars +are three-quarters of an inch thick and a foot from +each other; these were morticed into gunwales 2½ +inches broad by half-an-inch thick, the whole being +covered with seal skin in the usual manner. Altogether +it was much more neatly finished and lighter<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span> +than any I had seen in Hudson's Straits; but the +natives here have not attained the same dexterity in +managing them, as they cannot turn their canoes +without assistance after being capsized.</p> + +<p>On the 31st Ouligbuck, who had been absent all +night, came home at 1 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> very faint from the +effects of a severe wound he had received on the arm +by falling on a large dagger which he usually +carried. On cutting off his clothes I found that the +dagger had passed completely through the right +arm a couple of inches above the elbow joint.</p> + +<p>In the evening Shimakuk, who is a conjuror, +came in, and as Ouligbuck wished to try the effect +of his charms on the injured part, I of course had +no objections. The whole process consisted in +putting some questions (the purport of which I +could not learn) to the patient in a very loud voice, +then muttering something in a very low tone, and +stopping occasionally to give two or three puffs of +the breath on the wounded arm. During these +proceedings the men could with difficulty keep +their gravity; nor could I blame them, for the scene +was irresistibly ludicrous.</p> + +<p>I observed that one of the conjuror's dogs was +lame, or rather very weak in the legs, and on asking +him the cause, he said that it arose from having +eaten trout livers when young.</p> + +<p>The latter part of the month of March was spent, +by the majority of the party, in making preparations +for our journey, over the ice and snow, to the northward,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span> +it having been my intention to set out on the +1st April; but the accident to Ouligbuck prevented +this, as I did not wish to leave him until I saw that +his wound was in a fair way of healing. Ivitchuk, +our intended companion, had not yet made his +appearance.</p> + +<p>On the 3rd April the thermometer rose above +zero, for the first time since the 12th December.</p> + +<p>As the aurora was seldom noticed after this date, +I may here make a few remarks on this subject. It +was often visible during the winter, and usually +made its appearance first to the southward in the +form of a faint yellow or straw-coloured arch, which +gradually rose up towards the zenith. During our +stay at Fort Hope I never witnessed a finer display +of this strange phenomenon than I had done at +York Factory, nor did it on any occasion affect +the horizontal needle as I had seen it do during +the previous winter there.</p> + +<p>The Esquimaux, like the Indians, assert that the +aurora produces a distinctly audible sound, and the +generality of Orkneymen and Zetlanders maintain +the same opinion, although for my own part I cannot +say that I ever heard any sound from it. A +fine display, particularly if the movements are +rapid, is very often succeeded by stormy or snowy +weather, but I have never been able to trace any +coincidence between the direction of its motions, +and that of the wind.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER VI.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Set out for the north—Equipment of the party—Snow-blindness—Musk-ox—Mode +of killing it—Reach the coast near Point +Hargrave—Ice rough along shore—Pass Cape Lady Pelly—Unfavourable +weather—Slow progress—Put on short allowance—River +Ki-ting-nu-yak—Pemmican placed <i>en cache</i>—Cape +Weynton—Colvile Bay—High hill—Dogs giving way—Work +increased—Snow-house-building—Point Beaufort—Point Siveright—Keith +Bay—Cape Barclay—Another <i>cache</i>—Leave the +coast and proceed across the land—River A-ma-took—Dogs +knocked up—Lake Ballenden—Harrison islands—Party left to +procure provisions—Proceed with two of the men—Cape Berens—Relative +effects of an eastern and western aspect—Halkett +Inlet—Reach Lord Mayor's Bay—Take formal possession of +the country—Commence our return to winter quarters—Friendly +interview with the natives—Obtain supplies of provisions from +them—View of Pelly Bay—Trace the shore to the eastward—Travel +by night—Explore the coast of Simpson's Peninsula—Arrive +at Fort Hope—Occurrences during the absence of the +exploring party—Character of the Esquimaux Ivitchuk.</p></div> + +<p>Everything having been for some days in readiness +for our contemplated journey, I only awaited +the arrival of our Esquimaux ally Ivitchuk. He +made his appearance on the 4th April in company<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span> +with his wife, his father and brother, and their wives. +I could have well dispensed with the presence of +the party, excepting the man who was to go with +us, as there were many things to be attended to. It +is strange that throughout the winter, with one or +two exceptions, the visits of these people have +happened on Sundays. Our intended travelling +companion having received a coat from one, inexpressibles +from another, leggings from a third, &c., +was soon completely dressed "ą la voyageur," not +certainly to the improvement of the outer man, but +much to his own satisfaction. Ouligbuck's arm +being now in a fair way of recovery, there was no +cause of detention.</p> + +<p>The party, consisting, besides myself, of George +Flett, John Corrigal, William Adamson, Ouligbuck's +son, and Ivitchuk, started early on the morning of +the 5th. We were accompanied by two sledges, +each drawn by four dogs, on which our luggage +and provisions were stowed. Our stores consisted of +three bags of pemmican, seventy reindeer tongues, +one half-hundred weight of flour, some tea, chocolate, +and sugar, and a little alcohol and oil for fuel. +At first the weather was far from favourable for +travelling, as there was a gale of wind with snow, +but about 8 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> the sky cleared up, and the day +became as fine as could have been wished. The +sun shone forth with great brightness, surrounded +by a halo of the most brilliant colours, with four +parhelia that rivalled the sun himself. Our route<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span> +was the same as that followed in the boat last +autumn; but although the snow was hard-packed +and not rough, our sledges were too heavy to allow +us to travel quickly. Numerous bands of deer +crossed our path, and enlivened the scene at the +same time that they kept up the spirit of our dogs. +Our latitude at noon, by an observation of the sun, +was 66° 42' N., variation of the compass 64° W. +Between 7 and 8 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, both dogs and men being +somewhat fatigued with their day's work, we +stopped on the east side of Christie Lake to build +our snow hut, which our Esquimaux friend was so +long in completing on account of the bad state of the +snow for building, that it was 11 o'clock before we +got into our blankets. The situation of our encampment +was in latitude 66° 49' 30" N., longitude +87° 20' W.</p> + +<p>6th.—We passed a comfortable night, and it +was 6 o'clock in the morning before we were again +on the march; three hours more brought us to the +northern extremity of the lake, where we had left a +bag of flour "en cache" the previous autumn. +Two men who had accompanied us, for the purpose +of taking the flour back to our winter quarters, returned +from this place.</p> + +<p>A little before noon we arrived at the snow hut of +the two Esquimaux, Shimakuk and Kei-ik-too-oo, +who, with their families, had been staying some +time here angling trout. I had agreed with those +people that they should build a large snow house<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span> +for our accommodation, having expected to reach +them at the end of our first day's journey. In this +we were disappointed; but, as the contracting +party had prepared a fine roomy dwelling for us, +they received the stipulated price—a clasp knife. +At noon, when still on the lake, the latitude +66° 58' 16" N. was observed.</p> + +<p>Kei-ik-too-oo having come with us for a short distance, +I proposed that he should get his sledge and +dogs and accompany us for two days; this, for a +dagger as a consideration, he gladly agreed to do, +and immediately went off at a great rate to bring up +his team. Being quite light he soon overtook us, and +was not long in getting a heavy load on. I soon +saw the advantage of his iced runners over the iron +ones, and determined to have ours done in the same +way on the first opportunity; on this account we +stopped sooner than we would otherwise have done, +having travelled sixteen geographical miles. We +found a number of old Esquimaux houses, one of +which we prepared for our use by clearing out +the snow that had drifted into it. Whilst the two +Esquimaux were icing the sledges, the remainder of +the men were cooking and preparing our bed; the +latter being a very simple process, merely requiring +the snow to be well smoothed, and one or two hairy +deer-skins laid over it to prevent the heat of the +body from thawing the snow. The weather was +fair all day, and except in the morning when the +thermometer was -16°, it was rather warm for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span> +walking. After we got into our lodgings a strong +breeze sprung up with thick drift. Some of the +party were slightly affected with snow-blindness.</p> + +<p>7th.—The weather was gloomy and dark this +morning, with the thermometer at +5° when we +started at half-past 3. Our sledges ran much easier +since they had received a coating of ice on their runners, +although they were not yet equal to Kei-ik-too-oo's. +We followed the same route as that taken +by the boat last autumn until 9 o'clock, when being +two miles from the sea we struck across land towards +Point Hargrave; at noon we were in latitude +67° 16' 51" N., variation of the compass 74° 30' W. +We found the snow much softer than it was on the +lakes and river, and our progress was consequently +much slower than in the first part of the day.</p> + +<p>At 2 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> we arrived at a small lake, about four +miles from Point Hargrave. As this was the only fresh-water +lake we were likely to meet with for some +time, I determined to stop for the purpose of renewing +the icing on the sledges, which had been a good +deal broken by the irregularities of the road. Notwithstanding +that we had gone only eighteen miles +our dogs were very tired, and I began to fear that +they would not hold out so well as was expected. +Our Esquimaux friend was to leave us the next day, +and as his sledge was light he expected to reach his +house the same day. This is a favourite resort of +the musk-ox as soon as the snow disappears. The +mode of killing these animals is the same as that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span> +described by Sir J. C. Ross as practised in Boothia +Felix by the Esquimaux: being brought to bay with +dogs, they are either shot with arrows or speared.</p> + +<p>When we resumed our journey at 5 o'clock next +morning, there was a strong breeze right ahead with +thick drift, the temperature being +6°. A walk +of three miles brought us to the coast about a mile +from Point Hargrave. There was a great deal of +rough ice along the shore, which gave both men and +dogs much hard work to drag the sledges over. It +had now begun to snow, and the drift was so thick +that we could not follow the smoothest route; we +consequently advanced but slowly, taking four hours +to gain five and a half miles, which brought us to +Cape Lady Pelly.</p> + +<p>Since leaving Fort Hope, I had measured every +foot of the ground we had passed over with a line, +but now the increased difficulty of the route made it +requisite that all hands should be employed in +dragging the sledges. One of our best dogs became +quite useless, and although unharnessed would not +walk, so that rather than lose the poor animal, we +dragged him on the snow several miles before reaching +our intended encampment.</p> + +<p>After passing Cape Lady Pelly the coast turns +rather more to the westward. The weather continued +very unfavourable all day, there being much +snow-drift; we however advanced seven miles farther, +and at 4 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> built our night's lodgings on +the ice, a few hundred yards from the shore. In an<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span> +hour and a half we were comfortably housed. Finding +that our day's journeys were much shorter than +I had anticipated, our allowance of food for supper +was somewhat reduced. The thermometer in the +evening stood at +11°. Our snow hut was situated +in latitude 67° 35' N., longitude 87° 51' W. both by +account.</p> + +<p>After a sound night's rest we resumed our journey +at 5 in the morning of the 9th. There was some +snow falling, but the wind had decreased, and the +temperature of the air was +2°. Our course was +N.W. by W. for three miles, when we came to a +low point formed of shingle and mud, with some +rocky rising grounds a few miles inland. This +point received the name of Swanston, after a friend. +A short time before noon the sky cleared, and very +satisfactory observations for latitude and variation +of the compass were obtained, the former being +67° 40' 53" N., the latter 71° 30' W. The dog that +had been unharnessed the day before had become +still weaker, and as I did not wish to leave him to +the mercy of the wolves, he was shot. We offered +some of his flesh to the other dogs, but there was +only one of them that would eat it.</p> + +<p>Having walked fourteen miles, we arrived at a +small river 70 yards wide, and, although it was only +half-past three, we commenced building our snow +house. We here found a number of stones which +allowed us to place "en cache" half a bag of pemmican, +some flour, shoes, &c., for our homeward journey.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span> +The river, which is called Ki-ting-nu-yak, was frozen +to the bottom, but in summer it is a favourable fishing +station, both salmon and a small species of the +white fish being found. I did not see any of the +latter, but from the description given by the Esquimaux +I have no doubt that they frequent this part +of the coast.</p> + +<p>The evening was beautifully clear, and the thermometer +fell to -16°.</p> + +<p>10th.—There was a thick haze this morning with +light variable airs of wind; temperature 6° below +zero. By striking straight out from land for a mile +or two, we got upon somewhat smoother ice, and +consequently made more progress. We passed a +number of hills, not of any great elevation however, +and at noon we were opposite one named Wiachat, +fully 500 feet high, and some miles from the coast. +Here the latitude 67° 53' 24" was observed, and the +coast turned off to the westward, forming a point +which was named Cape Weynton. We now commenced +crossing a bay 5 or 6 miles deep, and apparently +12 wide, which received the name of +Colvile, in honour of the Deputy Governor of the +Hudson's Bay Company. A mouse or lemming +crossed our path, and the dogs, although they appeared +to be scarcely able to put one foot before +another, set off at full speed in chase, and before +any one could interfere to save it, the poor little +animal was quivering in the jaws of the foremost.</p> + +<p>Being unable to reach the north side of Colvile<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span> +Bay, at 4 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> we took up our quarters on the ice in +our usual snug lodgings, in latitude 68° 2' N., longitude +88° 21' W. A high hill bearing west of us, +and distant eight miles, called Oo-me-we-yak by the +natives, was named after the late John George +M'Tavish, Esq., Chief Factor. Several of our dogs +had become very weak—so much so that during the +latter part of the day's journey they did little or +nothing, thus giving us all much additional work. +They also required much more food to keep them in +good condition, than the dogs generally used in the +fur countries. We only walked sixteen miles this +day; and I may here remark that all the distances +mentioned in this journal are given in geographical +miles.</p> + +<p>Our usual mode of preparing lodgings for the +night was as follows:—As soon as we had selected a +spot for our snow house, our Esquimaux, assisted by +one or more of the men, commenced cutting out +blocks of snow. When a sufficient number of +these had been raised, the builder commenced his +work, his assistants supplying him with the material. +A good roomy dwelling was thus raised in +an hour, if the snow was in a good state for +building. Whilst our principal mason was thus +occupied, another of the party was busy erecting +a kitchen, which, although our cooking was none +of the most delicate or extensive, was still a necessary +addition to our establishment, had it been +only to thaw snow. As soon as the snow hut was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span> +completed, our sledges were unloaded, and every +thing eatable (including parchment skin and moose +skin shoes, which had now become favourite articles +with the dogs) taken inside. Our bed was +next made, and by the time the snow was +thawed or the water boiled, as the case might +be, we were all ready for supper. When we +used alcohol for fuel (as we usually did in +stormy weather) no kitchen was required.</p> + +<p>On the following morning we started about the +usual hour, and directing our course nearly north, +a walk of five miles brought us to the opposite side +of Colvile Bay, which terminated in a long point +covered with boulders of granite and debris of limestone, +and having a number of stone marks set up +on it. To this point the name of Beaufort was +given, in honour of the gallant officer who, with +so much advantage to his country and to nautical +science, presides over the hydrographical department +of the Admiralty.</p> + +<p>Five miles farther we reached another low point +called by the Esquimaux E-to-uke, but renamed +by me Point Siveright. The coast, now turning +slightly to the westward of north, continued in +nearly a straight line during the rest of this day's +march.</p> + +<p>We were now tracing the shores of a considerable +bay, as the land after taking a sudden bend to the +eastward followed a south-east direction as far as +visible. At 4 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> we stopped and built our snow +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span> +hut; the day had been fine throughout, and the +temperature in the evening was 16° below zero. +The shores of the bay are very low, with the exception +of a high bluff point bearing S.E. by E. 6½ +miles (by trigonometrical measurement). The point +was named Cape Barclay, in honour of the Secretary +of the Hudson's Bay Company, and the bay +was called after my much respected friend, George +Keith, Esq., Chief-Factor.</p> + +<p>Since passing Colvile Bay the coast had become +much lower and more level, giving every indication +of a limestone country. Being anxious to save our +fuel as much as possible, we filled two small kettles +and a bladder with snow and took them to bed with +us, for the purpose of procuring water to drink—a +plan which was frequently adopted afterwards. +Our dogs had now become most ravenous; although +they received what was considered a fair +allowance of provisions, everything that came in +their way, such as shoes, leather mitts, and even +a worsted belt, was eaten, much to the annoyance +of the owners and to the merriment of the +rest of the party. We enjoyed a cold supper of +pemmican and water;—as we could afford a hot +meal only once a day, we preferred taking it in the +morning.</p> + +<p>12th.—Being informed by our Esquimaux companion +that, by crossing over land in a north-west +direction to a large bay which he had formerly visited, +we should shorten our distance considerably, +I determined<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span> +on adopting the plan proposed. Our +kettles of snow were found rather cool companions, +but there was a little water formed. The bladder +having been either leaky, or not properly tied, gave +me and my next neighbour a partial cold bath. +The morning was delightful, being clear and calm, +with a temperature of -22°. We started at half-past +5, and after having walked a short distance +came to some loose pieces of granite and limestone, +which afforded an opportunity, not to be lost, for +making a deposit of provisions for our return journey.</p> + +<p>After tracing the shores of the bay for three +miles and a half further north to latitude 68° 18' N., +longitude by account 88° 26' W., we left the coast +and proceeded over land in a north-north-west direction. +Walking became more difficult, and the +snow was too soft to support the sledges, the ice on +the runners of which was now entirely worn off. +A mile's walk brought us to a small river with high +mud banks, and frozen to the bottom: it is named +A-ma-took by the natives, and takes its rise from a +lake of the same name about a day's journey west +of us. We next passed between two elevations +covered with limestone. I ascended that on the +right-hand or to the east of us, it being the highest +and having two columns of limestone, the one fourteen, +the other nine feet high, at its western extremity. +There were many places here denuded +of snow, showing that the sun had already acquired<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span> +great power. At noon we were in latitude +68° 22' 19'' N., variation of the compass 79° 35' W. +An hour after, we reached a small lake, where we +halted on account of our dogs being quite knocked +up, although we had only advanced twelve miles; +I therefore ordered a hut to be built that we might +afford the dogs time to recruit, and also have the +sledge-runners put in order. We found the ice on +the lake 4 feet 8 inches thick, but we were disappointed +to find that there were no fish to be caught. +We here enjoyed water ad libitum, a luxury that +had been rather sparingly dealt out for the last few +days. Ivitchuk drank as much as would have +satisfied an ox. The thermometer in the evening +was 9° below zero. A few tracks of foxes were +here seen, but no signs of deer or musk-oxen. +This part of the country appeared miserably barren +in every respect.</p> + +<p>On the morning of the 13th we commenced our +march at 2.30 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span>; the weather was fine with light +airs from the north-west: thermometer -15°. At +5 o'clock we passed a small lake about a mile and a +half long, and an hour afterwards reached another of +considerable size. Tung-a-lik, as the lake is called +by the Esquimaux, is 7 miles long due north and +south, and varying in breadth from a mile to a mile +and a half. Near its centre was a curious-looking +island, about 7 feet high and 200 yards in extent, +covered with granite boulders and limestone. Its +form is as nearly as possible that of a semicircle,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span> +the concavity being towards the south. To this +lake I gave the name of Ballenden, after a much +valued friend. When near the north end of Ballenden +Lake (over which we had travelled rapidly, the +snow being both hard and smooth), we turned more +to the west. At noon we arrived at a lake which was +to be our resting place for the night, as, although +small, it was said to contain both trout and salmon; +but, after cutting through five feet of ice, we did not +succeed in catching any, although we tempted them +with a bait from a buffalo hide. In the afternoon +the weather became very gloomy; a strong breeze +sprang up accompanied by a thick haze, and the +thermometer rose to -11°. By meridian observation +our latitude was 68° 36' 58" N., variation of the +compass 78° W., longitude by account 88° 49" W.</p> + +<p>14th.—This morning was so stormy, with thick +drift and snow, that we could not start so early as +usual; it however became more moderate at 5 o'clock, +and we were able to continue our route, although the +guide seemed much puzzled to keep in the proper +direction, there being nothing to serve as marks in +this wilderness of snow.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon the weather again became worse, +and the temperature fell to -12°, which with a strong +head wind made it sufficiently cold. I felt it probably +more than the others, as I had to stop often +to take bearings, and in consequence was once or +twice nearly losing the party altogether. We +trudged on manfully until 5 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, when it cleared<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span> +up for two or three minutes, and we obtained a distant +glimpse of some high islands in the bay for +which we were bound, called Ak-koo-lee-gu-wiak by +the natives. At half-past 5 we commenced building +our snow house. This was far from pleasant work, as +the wind was piercingly cold, and the fine particles +of snow drift penetrated our clothes everywhere; +we, however, enjoyed ourselves the more when +we got under shelter and took our supper of the +staple commodities, pemmican and water. Latitude +68° 51' N., longitude 89° 16' W.</p> + +<p>15th.—It blew a complete storm all night, but +we were as snug and comfortable, in our snow +hive, as if we had been lodged in the best house +in England. At 5.30 the wind moderated to a +gale, but the drift was still so thick that it was impossible +to see any distance before us, particularly +when looking to windward, and that unfortunately +was the direction in which we had to go. The +temperature was 21° below zero,—a temperature +which, as all Arctic travellers know, feels much +colder, when there is a breeze of wind, than one of +-60° or -70° when the weather is calm. But there +was the prospect of both food and fuel before us, +for seals were said to abound in the bay and heather +on the islands of Akkooleeguwiak. Such temptations +were not to be resisted; so we muffled +ourselves well up and set out. It was one of the +worst days I had ever travelled in, and I could<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span> +not take the bearings of our route more than once +or twice.</p> + +<p>To make matters worse, one of our dogs, a fine +lively little creature, that was a great favourite +with us all, became unable to walk unharnessed, +and the men having enough to do with the sledges, +I dragged, carried, and coaxed it on for a few +miles; but finding that some parts of my face were +freezing, and that my companions were so far +ahead as to be out of sight, I was reluctantly compelled +to leave the poor animal to its fate.</p> + +<p>After a most devious course of nearly twelve miles, +we came to the shores of the bay. The banks were +of mud and shingle, about sixty or seventy feet high, +and so steep that it was some time before we could +find a place by which to get down to the ice. We +directed our steps among much rough ice towards +the highest of the group of islands named Coga-ur-ga-wiak, +apparently six miles distant, and encamped +near its western end in a little well-sheltered bay. +All the party, even the Esquimaux, had got severely +frost-bitten in the face, but as it was not much more +than skin deep, this gave us little concern. When +our house was nearly built, a search was commenced +among the snow for heather, and we were so fortunate +as to procure enough in an hour and a-half to +cook us some pemmican and flour, in the form of a +kind of soup or pottage.</p> + +<p>We were all very glad to get into our blankets as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span> +soon as possible. The weather became somewhat +finer in the evening, but it drifted as much as ever. +The thermometer was -16°. Our latitude was 68° +53' 44" N., longitude 89° 55' 30" west. Notwithstanding +that I carried my watch next to my skin the +cold stopped it, and I could not tell exactly the +time of our arrival at the island, but I believed it +was near 2 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span></p> + +<p>On the 16th, a gale of wind from N.W. with +thick drift, and the thermometer at -20°, would have +prevented our travelling had I intended it; but as I +purposed leaving some of the men and all the dogs +here to recruit, I wished to find out the Esquimaux +(who we knew were in the neighbourhood, as the +recent foot tracks of two had been seen on the shore +the day before), and obtain from them some seals' +flesh and blubber for our use. Flett, Ivitchuk, and +the interpreter were sent on this mission, but they returned +in the evening unsuccessful. The drift was +so thick in the bay that they could not see to any +distance. In the meantime Corrigal and Adamson +had been collecting fuel, and I being under the lee +of the island obtained observations for latitude and +variation of the compass, the former being 68° 53' 44" +north as above, the latter 87° 40' west.</p> + +<p>I prepared for an early start the next morning +in company with Flett and Corrigal, for the purpose, +if possible, of reaching Sir John Ross's most +southerly discoveries, which could not now be distant +more than two days' journey.</p> + +<p>The party<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span> that were to be left behind had orders +to kill seals, (for which purpose Ivitchuk was furnished +with a spear,) to trade provisions from the +Esquimaux if they saw any, and, above all, to use +as little of our present stock as possible. All that +we could afford to take with us was four days' +scanty allowance. I had for the last week carried +my instruments, books, &c., in all about thirty-five +pounds weight; and I now intended to do the same.</p> + +<p>The morning of the 17th was stormy and cold +(-22°), and we did not start until near 6 o'clock; +when we had got well clear of the S.W. end of the +island, we found the ice smooth, and the snow on it +hard-packed. As the men had but a light load we +travelled fast, our course being nearly N.W. towards +the farthest visible land in that direction. A brisk +walk of seventeen miles brought us, an hour +before noon, to the shore near a high point formed +of dark gray granite, which I named Cape Berens, +after one of the Directors of the Company. It is +situated in latitude 69° 4' 12" N. by observation, +and longitude 90° 35' 48" W. by account. The +shore, which was steep and rocky, ran nearly in a +straight line, and in the same direction that we had +been already travelling. At 3 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> we came to two +narrow points in a small bay, between which we +built our snow-house. To these points I gave the +name of "the Twins." Their latitude is 69° 13' 14" N., +longitude 90° 55' 30" W.</p> + +<p>There being one or two hills at a short distance<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span> +from us, I ascended one of them to look for fuel, +and to gain a view of our future route. I obtained +neither of these objects, but fell in with some lead +ore, specimens of which were brought away.</p> + +<p>On arriving at the snow-hut I found it nearly +completed, but so small that there was little prospect +of a comfortable night's rest. Having but a very +small quantity of alcohol for fuel, our supper was a +cold one. Thermometer in the evening 19° below +zero. Flett (one of Dease and Simpson's best men) +showed symptoms of fatigue, at which I was much +surprised, as, from what I had heard of him, I +fancied he would have tired out any of the party.</p> + +<p>18th.—My anticipations of passing an uncomfortable +night were fully realized. It might be +thought that, as our whole bedding consisted of +one blanket, and a hairy deer-skin to put between us +and the snow, there was reason enough for my not +sleeping soundly; but this was not the case, as I +often passed nights both before and after this with +as little covering, but never found myself cold. We +started at 3 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> The morning was fine but hazy, +with a light air of wind from N.W. Thermometer +-3°. The walking was still fair; and I may here +remark, that wherever the land had an eastern exposure +the ice was smooth, there being little or none +of the former year forced up along the shore; whenever +the coast was exposed to the west, the contrary +was the case.</p> + +<p>Our course was nearly that of the previous day,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span> +but a little more to the westward. After walking +twelve miles we came to what proved to be the head +of a deep inlet, the western shore of which we had +been tracing, and which I named after John Halkett, +Esq., one of the Directors of the Hudson's Bay +Company, whose son (Lieut. P. A. Halkett, R.N.,) is +the ingenious inventor of the portable air-boat, which +ought to be the travelling companion of every explorer. +Two reindeer were seen here.</p> + +<p>As there could be no doubt that, if my longitude +was correct, I must now be near the Lord Mayor's +Bay of Sir John Ross, I decided on striking across +land, as nearly north as possible, instead of following +the coast. The men having had a short time to rest, +we commenced a tiresome march over land, the snow +being in some places both deep and soft. We +crossed three small lakes, and at noon, when near +the middle of another about four miles long, an excellent +meridian observation of the sun gave latitude +69° 26' 1" N. When we had walked three miles +more we came to another small lake; and here, as +there was yet no appearance of the sea, I ordered +my men to prepare our lodgings, whilst I went on +alone to endeavour to discover the coast.</p> + +<p>A walk of twenty minutes brought me to an inlet +not more than a quarter of a mile wide. This I +traced to the westward for upwards of a league, +when my course was again obstructed by land. +There were some high rocks near at hand which I +ascended, and from the summit I thought I could<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span> +distinguish rough ice in the desired direction. With +renewed hopes I slid down a declivity, plunging +among snow, scrambling over rocks, and through +rough ice until I gained more level ground. I then +directed my steps to some rising ground which I +found to be close to the seashore. From the spot on +which I now stood, as far as the eye could reach +to the north-westward, lay a large extent of ice-covered +sea, studded with innumerable islands. +Lord Mayor's Bay was before me, and the islands +were those named by Sir John Ross the Sons of the +Clergy of the Church of Scotland.</p> + +<p>The isthmus which connects the land to the north +with the continent is only one mile broad, and even +in this short space there are three small ponds. +From the great number of stone marks set up (the +only ones that I saw on this part of the coast), I am +led to infer that this is a deer-pass in the autumn, +and consequently a favourite resort of the natives. +Its latitude is 69° 31' N., longitude by account +91° 29' 30" W. This latter differs only a mile or +two from that of the same place as laid down by +Sir James C. Ross, with whose name I distinguished +the isthmus, calling the land to the northward +Sir John Ross's Peninsula. After going down to +the ice in Hardy Bay, and offering with a humble +and grateful heart thanks to Him who had thus +brought our journey so far to a successful termination, +I began to retrace my steps towards my companions.</p> + +<p>At a late hour<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span> I reached our snow hut, an excellent +roomy one, in which we could lie in any position; +no trifling comfort after a walk of more than +forty miles over a rough road.</p> + +<p>It was 7 o'clock the following morning before we +started. The weather was pleasant, and the thermometer +12° below zero. Having taken possession +of our discoveries with the usual formalities, we +traced the inlet eastward, the shores of which were +steep and rugged, in some places precipitous. When +we had walked four miles the land on our left +turned up to the northward, leaving an opening in +that direction more than two miles wide, bounded +on the south-east by one or more islands. This inlet +I named after that celebrated navigator and discoverer +Sir John Franklin, whose protracted absence +in the Arctic Sea is at present exciting so much +interest and anxiety throughout England. The most +distant visible point was called Cape Thomas after +a relative. The land on our right still trended to +the east for two miles, and then turned to the south. +After walking seven miles in this last direction, and +passing two small bays and as many points, we +stopped for the night. Here we were fairly puzzled +about the proper route, there being so many inlets +and small bays that it was impossible to tell which +was the one we ought to follow. The day had become +very warm, the thermometer rising as high +as +26° in the sun, and as we were now travelling +south, we found the reflection from the snow much<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span> +more painful to the eyes than when proceeding north. +The latitude of our snow house was 69° 22' N., longitude +91° 3' W., both by account. The thermometer -19° +in the evening; cold water and pemmican +for supper, and kettles of snow for bedfellows.</p> + +<p>The morning of the 20th was cold, but calm; +thermometer -24°. We commenced our day's march +at 2h. 30m. <span class="smcap">A.M.</span>, and in twenty minutes arrived at +the head of the inlet where I hoped to find a passage. +Seeing that it would be madness to trace all the +indentations of this most irregular coast, (for had a +couple of days' stormy weather ensued we should all +have run the risk of starving,) I struck over land +towards our snow hut of the 17th.</p> + +<p>This was the most fatiguing and at the same time the +most ludicrous march we had experienced. As our route +lay across several ranges of hills, we had no sooner +climbed up one side than we had to slide down the +other. To descend was not always an easy matter, +as there were often large stones in the way, past +which we required to steer with great care, or if +a collision was unavoidable, to manage so as not to +injure ourselves. Corrigal appeared to be an old +hand at this sort of work, and I had had some practice, +but poor Flett, who had begun to suffer much from +inflammation of the eyes, got many queer falls, and +was once or twice placed in such situations with his +head down hill, his heels up, and the strap of his +bundle round his neck, that it would have been impossible +for him to get up by his own unaided exertions.</p> + +<p>After crossing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span> a number of small lakes, we arrived +at the steep shores of Halkett Inlet about 11 o'clock, +having been eight hours in walking as many miles. +We crossed the inlet, and as it had now begun to +blow a fresh breeze we stopped at a small bay, well +sheltered, to take some rest, and obtain a meridian observation +of the sun. The latitude was 69° 16' 44" +N., variation of the compass 76° 45' W. We were +so fortunate as to find here some heather by scraping +away the snow, and we enjoyed the luxury of +a cup of chocolate, which refreshed us very much.</p> + +<p>We now resumed our march, and the walking being +good and the day fine we made rapid progress, although +somewhat detained by the lameness and +blindness of Flett, who stumbled at every inequality +of the ground, and received some severe falls. +After advancing two miles we came opposite to a +clear opening to the north-eastward, in which nothing +but rough ice could be seen. This was evidently the +termination of the continent in this direction. At +4 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> we arrived at our snow hut in the small +bay between the Twins. It was not my intention +to remain here all night, but the lameness of +our companion prevented us from continuing our +journey. Whilst I went to search for fuel, Corrigal +enlarged our snow house. I found a little fuel, +with which we contrived to thaw as much snow as +gave each of us nearly half-a-pint of water. The +remainder of our provisions, amounting to a few +ounces of pemmican each, was fairly divided, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span> +having eaten part of this we betook ourselves to +rest.</p> + +<p>21st.—Having passed a far from pleasant night, +and used the last of our alcohol to procure some water +as a diluent for our not very plentiful breakfast, we +started at a little before 2 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> There was a strong +breeze from N.W. with thick drift occasionally, and +a temperature of -20°, but the wind being on our +backs it was rather an advantage than otherwise. We +directed our course straight for the island on which +we had left the rest of the party, and which could be +seen at intervals when the snow drift cleared away.</p> + +<p>Flett being still very lame, I desired Corrigal to +remain in company with him, whilst I went on +alone to order some provisions to be prepared by +the time they came to the snow house. The ice +being smooth, and the snow on its surface hard, I +made rapid progress until within about five miles of +our temporary home. Here I observed some strange +looking figures on the ice, which the thickness of +the weather prevented me from seeing distinctly. +On a nearer approach I found that what had puzzled +me was a number of Esquimaux spears, lances, +&c. stuck on a heap of snow; and immediately afterwards +four Esquimaux came from behind a mound +of ice, holding up their hands to show that they +were unarmed. The natives of this part of the +coast bear a very bad character, and are much +feared by their countrymen of Repulse Bay. I therefore +was not quite sure what sort of reception I<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span> +might meet with, as my men were not in sight and +I was quite unarmed. But to anticipate evil is often +the most likely way to cause it, so I went directly +up, and saluted them with their usual term for peace +(teyma), shaking hands with all after the fashion +of our own country. They all shouted out Manig +Tomig, which are the words mentioned by Sir John +Ross as the form of salutation employed by the +natives of Boothia Felix. A very animated conversation +soon ensued, in which I bore but a very +small share; but as I appeared to be a good listener, +and put in a negative or affirmative every now and +then when there appeared to be a necessity for saying +something, we got on very well together.</p> + +<p>We were soon joined by an old woman who took +upon herself the office of mistress of the ceremonies, +and commenced with great volubility to give me the +names of the men, which were as follows:—A-li-ne-a-yuk, +Kag-vik, Tag-na-koo and Nu-li-a-yuk; the +first being old, the second middle aged, and the two +last young men of about twenty-five. They were +all married, and were much more forward in their +manners and dirty in their persons and dress, than +our friends of Repulse Bay. They were very anxious +for me to enter their huts, but this I thought it +prudent to decline, and after much persuasion and +promises of knives, needles, beads, &c. I prevailed +on them to follow me to our snow house.</p> + +<p>A little more than an hour brought me to our encampment, +where I found Adamson quite well but<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span> +all alone, Ivitchuk and the boy being out looking +for seals. They had not met with any Esquimaux, +and no animals of any kind had been killed, +Ivitchuk standing so much in awe of his countrymen +that he was afraid to stay out seal-hunting +during the night, which is the only time that these +animals are to be caught at that season of the year. +I found that much more of our stock of provisions +had been used than there was any occasion for—in +fact, the appearance of the men shewed that they +had been on full allowance.</p> + +<p>About an hour after my arrival, Corrigal and +Flett made their appearance, accompanied by the +four Esquimaux that I had seen and a boy. A few +trifling presents were made them, and they promised +to return on the following day with oil, blubber, &c. +to barter with us. It blew a gale all the evening, +with the thermometer 21° below zero.</p> + +<p>The morning of the 22d was fine with a temperature +of -20°, but during the day it blew hard with +drift. Our party kept in bed rather longer than usual, +and we were visited by the Esquimaux before we +had got up. They brought a quantity of seal's flesh, +blood, and blubber, which I was about to purchase +from them when the thermometer was reported as +missing. I immediately shut the box containing +the valuables, and intimated that they should receive +nothing unless the thermometer was given up. After +about ten minutes' delay one of the women brought +in the lost article, saying, that the dogs had pulled<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span> +it down and carried it off,—a very probable story +certainly; but having obtained what I wanted I +cared little who might be the thief.</p> + +<p>A brisk traffic was soon commenced for oil, seals, +blubber, flesh and blood, for which knives, files, +beads, needles, &c. were given. We also obtained +half a dozen dried salmon and a small piece of +dried musk-ox flesh, both very old and mouldy. +These Esquimaux were found to be much more +difficult to deal with than our friends of Repulse +Bay, being very forward and much addicted to +stealing. They had undoubtedly had communication +with the natives of Boothia Felix, as there +were many of their weapons, and parts of their +sledges formed of oak. I also observed some small +pieces of mahogany among them. One of the +strangers proved to be an uncle of Ivitchuk.</p> + +<p>It continued to blow hard in the evening with a +temperature of -15°. Preparations were made for +examining the shores of the bay in which, by Esquimaux +report, we now were.</p> + +<p>23d.—This was another stormy and cold day +until the afternoon, when it became fair. We were +again visited by our neighbours, who brought us a +further and very acceptable supply of seals' flesh and +blood, and also two fine dogs to complete our teams, +one or two of those we had being still very weak.</p> + +<p>When about to make a tour round the bay, +I learnt from one of the natives that a complete +view of its shores could be obtained from the summit<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span> +of the island on which we were. I found also +that a chart which he made of the bay agreed very +closely with one drawn by the natives of Repulse +Bay, who had visited the place. The evening being +beautifully clear, I took with me the Esquimaux, +one of the men, and the interpreter to the highest +point of the island, from which I obtained a distinct +view of the whole bay, except a small portion immediately +under the sun. The shores were high and +regular in their outline, and being, in most places, +to a certain extent denuded of snow, they were much +more clearly seen than could have been expected. +The bay appeared to extend 16 or 18 miles slightly +to the east of south, and was about 11 miles wide +near its head. Its surface was studded with a number +of dark-coloured rocky islands. The highest of +these was the one on which we were staying, and +was found by measurement to be 730 feet above the +level of the sea. It was called Helen Island, whilst +the group to which it belonged was named after +Benjamin Harrison, Esq. one of the Directors of the +Hudson's Bay Company. The Esquimaux pointed +out the direction in which two rivers near the head +of the bay lay. These rivers, of which I took the +bearings by compass, were said to be of no great +size, and frozen to the bottom in winter. The bay +was honoured with the name of Sir John H. Pelly, +Bart., Governor of the Company.</p> + +<p>The morning of the 24th was as beautiful as could +be desired, with the thermometer at -15°. There<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span> +was a gentle air from the east, and the horizon being +very clear, I again obtained a fine view of the bay.</p> + +<p>Having abundance of blubber for dogs' meat and +fuel, and as much seals' flesh and blood for ourselves as +at half allowance would serve us for six or seven days, +I determined to trace the shores of the land across +which we had travelled on our outward journey.</p> + +<p>For this purpose, both men and dogs being now +much recruited, we started at 8h. 30m. <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> and +took a N.E. by E. course towards the eastern shore +of the bay, which, having a western exposure, was +much encumbered with rough ice. We had some +trouble in getting over this, but found it more +smooth along the shore, which trended due north. +Finding that our sledges were too heavily laden, we +left on the ice a quantity of our oil and blubber. +Here we made a mistake in retaining the fresh fat +of the seal, instead of that which had become somewhat +rancid, as we found that, although the dogs ate +the latter with avidity, they would scarcely taste +the former. This Ivitchuk well knew, but he was +too stupid to tell me of it at the time. One of our +dogs that had done his work well since leaving +Repulse Bay, had become so weak that he could +scarcely walk. We endeavoured to coax him on, +but unsuccessfully; it was therefore thought advisable +to leave him where we had lightened our +load, as he would have provisions for at least a +fortnight, if not assisted by other animals, and +before that time he would very likely be found by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span> +the Esquimaux. A meridian observation gave latitude +68° 50' 46" N., variation 78° 56' W.</p> + +<p>As the sun had acquired too much power for travelling +comfortably during the day-time, I stopped +early so as to be able to continue our journey about +midnight. Our snow hut was built near a small +creek, in latitude 68° 58' N., longitude 89° 42' W. +The coast had become low and flat, with a few +fragments of limestone and granite boulders showing +themselves occasionally above the snow. The +thermometer exposed to the sun's rays rose to +37°. +A little snow fell in the evening.</p> + +<p>On the morning of the 25th there was some more +snow with a temperature of -7°. We did not commence +our march until some hours later than I had +expected. The direction of the land continued +nearly north for eight miles; it then turned off to the +north-east, and continued so until we stopped at +noon, in latitude by observation 69° 14' 37" N., +longitude by account 89° 18' 18" W. The tracks +of a large Polar bear and of some lemmings were +noticed this day.</p> + +<p>26th.—The morning was dark and cloudy when +we started at 20 minutes after one. When just +about to set out, we were joined by the poor dog +we had left behind. He had grown into much better +condition, although he was still unable to haul. +I may here add that he afterwards quite recovered, +and was the only one of our stock that I took to +England with me.</p> + +<p>Our course<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span> for seven miles was east, and then +turned off S.E. by S. forming a cape, which was +named Chapman, after one of the Directors of the +Hudson's Bay Company.</p> + +<p>We continued walking on, in nearly a straight +line, for 11 miles, when our dogs became tired, and +we encamped an hour before noon, in latitude by +observation 69° 5' 35" N., variation 81° 50' W., +longitude by account 88° 43' W. At 11 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> we +recommenced our march, the weather being beautiful, +and the temperature -8°.</p> + +<p>27th.—The coast trended in exactly the same direction +as that we had passed during the latter part +of the preceding day's journey; the walking was in +general good, and our dogs were every day recovering +their strength. A single rock grouse (<i>tetrao +rupestris</i>) was seen, but so shy that we could not +get a shot at it. Many traces of foxes, and the +recent foot-marks of a large white bear, were also +seen. We kept a sharp out-look for the latter, with +the hopes of getting a few steaks out of him, but he +did not show himself. There was a high wall of +broken ice all along the shore here, which may be +readily accounted for by the direction of the coast, +which, by contracting the bay, is exposed to the +pressure of the ice coming from the northward. +Fortunate it was for us that we had got some oil and +seals' blubber, for there was not a bit of anything in +the shape of fuel to be seen along this barren shore. +The weather having become too warm, about 11<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span> +<span class="smcap">A.M.</span>, we stopped in latitude, by observation, 68° 51' +N., longitude by account 88° 6' W.</p> + +<p>The morning of the 28th was particularly fine, +with a temperature of 15° below zero. For eight +miles our course was the same as that of the +day before, but the land now turned gradually to the +southward, and finally to about a south-by-west +direction. At noon the sun had become so warm, +that we were compelled to encamp for the day. At +three miles from where we had stopped, we passed a +small bay, about 1½ mile wide, the only indentation +of the coast we had seen since leaving Pelly Bay. +Our latitude by meridian observation was 68° 32' +40" N., variation of the compass 70° 55' W., and +our longitude by account 88° 2' W.</p> + +<p>29th.—We resumed our march at a little after +11 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> on the 28th. The weather was calm, but +cloudy, with the temperature -3°. The line of coast +now ran nearly south, and after a walk of five miles +we came to a narrow point, extending two miles to +the eastward. We then crossed a bay about 1½ mile +wide, and arrived at another point of nearly the same +dimensions, both formed of mud and shingle. These +I named respectively after James and Robert Clouston, +two intimate friends.</p> + +<p>Four miles further brought us opposite to a small +low island, half a mile from the shore, and at a +short distance beyond this we came to a small bay +upwards of a mile wide. A little before noon we +stopped to build our snow hut. The day was now<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span> +warm, the thermometer having risen as high as ++55° in the sun, and +18° in the shade. One of +our best dogs got lamed by putting his foot into a +crack in the ice. We saw the smoke of open water +at no great distance, and heard the ice making a +loud noise as it was driven along with the tide. +There were numerous traces of foxes, and the tracks +of a band of deer, with a wolverine in pursuit, were +noticed. The latitude of our position was 68° 15' +N., variation 75° 52' W., and longitude by account +88° 5' 36" W.</p> + +<p>30th.—We started at half-past nine the previous +night, with clear weather and a fresh breeze from +west, which, with a temperature of -8°, made our +already frost-bitten faces smart severely. After a +few miles' walk, we rounded a low spit of land, +which had been hid from our view by the rough ice +on our outward journey, and which I now named +Point Anderson. Between this point and Cape +Barclay, of which we now got sight, there is a +narrow bay running up to the northward two or +three miles.</p> + +<p>We had a great quantity of rough ice to scramble +over, which, however fatiguing, afforded some +amusement, as the ridiculous positions in which +we were sometimes placed gave abundant food for +mirth to those who were disposed to look at every +thing in the most favourable light.</p> + +<p>About midnight the weather became very stormy, +so much so indeed that we had great difficulty in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span> +keeping the proper course, which was now to the +north west, for the purpose of picking up the pemmican, +&c. which we had deposited on the shore of +Keith Bay on the 12th. On reaching the west side +of the bay at 3 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> I found that we were not +more than a hundred yards from where our "cache" +was placed, which we found quite safe. Ivitchuk +and the boy having lagged behind, we removed a +quantity of snow, and took possession of our old +snow hut to wait for them. After staying for an +hour we resumed our journey, thinking that our +companions might have taken a shorter route across +the bay; and this we found to be the case. It had +been cold and stormy during the greater part of +the night; but at 8 h. 30 m. <span class="smcap">A.M.</span>, when we encamped +opposite Cape Beaufort, the weather had +become beautiful.</p> + +<p>The whole of the coast which we had traced +during the last seven days, as far as Cape Barclay, +was low and flat, with neither rock nor hill to +interrupt the sameness of the landscape. It was +named Simpson's Peninsula after Sir George Simpson, +the able and enterprising Governor of the +Hudson's Bay Company's territories, who projected +and planned the expedition, and to whose zeal in the +cause of discovery Arctic travellers have been so +often and so much indebted.</p> + +<p>During the remainder of our journey homewards, +having followed as nearly as possible our outward +route, we met with little of any interest. We reached<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span> +our encampment of the 9th of April on the 1st of +May, and found our "cache" of provisions quite +safe. We had now an abundant stock of food, nor +were we sorry to exchange the seals' flesh and blood, +on which we had been subsisting for eight days +past, for pemmican and flour. It is true that during +that time we had supped on a few dried salmon, +which were so old and mouldy that the water in +which they were boiled became quite green. Such, +however, is the advantage of hard work and short +commons, that we enjoyed that change of food as +much as if it had been one of the greatest delicacies. +Both the salmon, and the water in which +they were cooked, were used to the last morsel and +drop, although I firmly believe that a moderately +well fed dog would not have tasted either.</p> + +<p>We now saw numerous tracks of rein-deer, all +proceeding in a N.E. direction towards Melville +Peninsula. Early on the morning of the 3rd of May +we arrived at the small lake near Point Hargrave, +on which we had encamped on the 7th of April; +much of the snow had disappeared from the ground +in the neighbourhood, and the marmots had already +cleared out the entrances to their burrows, and +recommenced their life of activity for the summer +season. Not an hour now passed without our seeing +deer; but they were extremely shy, and the +only benefit we received from them was the life and +spirit their presence infused into our dogs.</p> + +<p>The night of the 4th was very unpleasant, there<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span> +being much snow and drift, which prevented us +from seeing the ridges of snow which occurred +frequently on our path, and which being very hard +and slippery, caused us many falls. At half-past 1 +on the morning of the 5th we reached some old +Esquimaux dwellings on the border of Christie +Lake, about fifteen miles from Fort Hope, in one +of which we took up our temporary abode. At +2 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> on the same day we were again on the +march, and arrived at our home at 8 h. 30 m. <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> +all well, but so black and scarred on the face from +the combined effects of oil, smoke, and frost bites, +that our friends would not believe but that some +serious accident from the explosion of gunpowder +had happened to us. Thus successfully terminated +a journey little short of 600 English miles, the +longest, I believe, ever made on foot along the +Arctic coast.</p> + +<p>During our absence every thing, had gone on +prosperously at winter quarters. The people had +been all in good health, and the wound in Ouligbuck's +arm had healed up, but the limb had not +yet acquired much strength. When I set out on the +5th of April there was but a very small quantity of +venison in store, so that I was afraid that Folster +(the man left in charge) would be forced to use +pemmican, which substantial article I wished to +save as much as possible for future contingencies. +Fortunately the Esquimaux brought a little venison +to barter, which, with an occasional deer killed by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span> +the hunters, kept the party in food; although the +store at one time was so empty, that they were +compelled to have a dinner of tongues, which (except +in case of necessity) were to be kept for journeys. +As the weather in the latter part of April became +stormy, and the deer numerous, the hunters were +more successful, and there was no further scarcity. +Ouligbuck had, notwithstanding the wound in his +arm, killed four deer, and sixteen more had been +shot by Nibitabo and some others of the party; so +that the meat store was well stocked when I arrived; +and well that it was so, for we were as ravenous as +wolves, and I believe ate more than would have +been good for us had our food been anything but +venison, which is so digestible that a person may +eat almost any quantity without feeling any bad +effects from it.</p> + +<p>May commenced with a beautiful day, the thermometer +being above zero, and continuing so +throughout. This was the only day for many months +past that the negative scale of the thermometer had +not been registered. On the 3rd snowbirds were +seen, and marmots had some time before emerged +from their winter quarters.</p> + +<p>The Esquimaux, with the exception of one or +two families, had built their snow huts within a +quarter of a mile of our house, where they had been +living for more than a week. They had almost all +behaved well, and were commended accordingly. +They had not yet commenced seal hunting, but<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span> +were to do so as soon as the seals came up on the +ice; in the meantime they were catching deer in snow +traps made by digging holes in the snow, and covering +them with thin slabs of the same material. Wolves +are often taken in a similar manner; but for them +the hole requires to be not less than eight or nine +feet deep, and after it is covered with a thin plate +of hard snow (on the centre of which a bait is laid), a +wall is built round it, over which it is necessary for +the wolf to leap, before he can reach the bait. He +does so, and falls to the bottom of the pit, which is +too narrow to give him room to make a spring to +the top.</p> + +<p>I may now say a few words about our travelling +companion Ivitchuk, who had behaved well throughout +the journey. We found him always willing and +obedient, and generally lively and cheerful except +when very tired, which was frequently the case, as +he had not been accustomed to travel so many +days consecutively. He accommodated himself +easily to our manners and customs in every respect, +living as we did, though he would swallow a piece +of seal's blubber now and then as a delicacy. What +surprised me most was, that he was by no means a +very great eater, being often satisfied with as little +as any of the party. Tea and chocolate were favorite +beverages with him, and he had learned to smoke +his pipe as regularly as if he had been accustomed +to it all his life. He picked up a few words of +English, which he made use of whenever he thought<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[136]</a></span> +they were applicable, and was very anxious to be +taught to read and write. As he, like the rest of +the party, was much thinner than when he commenced +the journey, he had made up his mind to +do nothing during the remainder of the spring but +eat, drink, and sleep, a determination to which I believe +he most strictly adhered. It was with no small +pride that he received a gun and some ammunition, +as a reward for his services; and a few presents to +his wife, one of the best looking of the fair sex of +Repulse Bay, made the pair quite happy, although +it was said that the lady had not behaved very well +to her liege lord during his absence, having taken +unto herself another husband named Ou-plik; but +probably the good man knew nothing, or cared +little, about it.</p> + +<p>Part of the men were now every day occupied in +scraping among the snow for moss and heather, of +which a sufficient quantity was procured to keep +the kettle boiling.</p> + +<p>On Sunday the 9th divine service was read, and +thanks offered to the Almighty for having guided +us in safety through the late journey. Many Esquimaux +were present, who conducted themselves +with propriety.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER VII.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Preparations for exploring the coast of Melville Peninsula—Outfit—Leave +Fort Hope—Pass over numerous lakes—Guide at fault—Dease +Peninsula—Arrive at the sea—Fatigue party sent back +to Fort Hope—Barrier of ice—Lefroy Bay—Large island named +after the Prince of Wales—Detained by stormy weather—Short +allowance—Cape Lady Simpson—Selkirk Bay—Snow knee-deep—Capes +Finlayson and Sibbald—Deer shot—A cooking +scene—Favourite native relish—Again stopped by stormy weather—Cape +M'Loughlin—Two men left to hunt and fish—Cape +Richardson—Chain of islands—Garry Bay—Prince Albert +range of hills—Cape Arrowsmith—Coast much indented—Baker +Bay—Provisions fail—Proceed with one man—Cape +Crozier—Parry Bay—Cape Ellice, the farthest point seen—Take +possession—Commence our return—No provisions procured by +the men left behind—Short commons—Flock of cranes—Snow-blindness—Arrive +at Repulse Bay.</p></div> + +<p>On the 12th of May preparations were commenced +for a journey along the west side of Melville Peninsula. +In expectation of falling in with much rough +ice, I determined on taking dogs only for the first +three days of the journey. The party was to consist +of Corrigal (our snow-house builder), Folster, Matheson,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span> +and Mineau, with Ouligbuck as deer-hunter +and interpreter. A fatigue party of two men, and +an Esquimaux with a sledge and good team of dogs, +were to accompany us for three days, which I supposed +would be the time required to reach the coast.</p> + +<p>Our provisions for the journey were two bags of +pemmican, each 90 lbs., 70 reindeer tongues weighing +nearly 30 lbs., 36 lbs. flour, and a little tea, +chocolate, and sugar. We took also a gallon and +a half of alcohol and a small quantity of oil.</p> + +<p>Leaving George Flett in charge at Fort Hope, we +started at 10 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> on the 13th of May, and directed +our course towards a chain of lakes in nearly a due +north direction. Although the snow was soft, and +we had some rather steep rising grounds to pass +over, we made good progress, and after crossing six +small lakes we came to some high table-land, on +which the snow was very deep, and in which the +sledge sank very much. A walk of four miles +brought us to another lake of considerable size. A +little after 6 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> on the 14th, we found some snow +huts that had been inhabited during part of the +winter by the Esquimaux Ecouchi, and soon had +one of them cleared out for the accommodation of +the party.</p> + +<p>Although we had not travelled much more than +twenty miles, Ouligbuck was so fatigued that I determined +to send him back with those who were to +return to Repulse Bay. We saw no game and only +very few tracks of deer. The weather was so cloudy<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span> +that no meridian observation of the sun could be +obtained. Our latitude was 66° 52' N., and longitude +86° 46' W., both by account.</p> + +<p>We resumed our march at 9 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> on the 14th, +the night being calm, with a little snow falling. A +brisk walk of two miles to the N.W. brought us to +the end of the lake, when we followed the bed of a +small stream to the northward for five miles. Two +narrow lakes were next traversed, when our guide, +who appeared to know little about the proper route, +led us to the N.W.; and after crossing five lakelets, +and as many short portages, at half-past 6 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> we +came to a body of water about the size of that near +which we had encamped the day before. Here we +stopped for the day. The ice on this lake was six +feet thick, and gave the men much trouble to cut +through it. There was very little fuel to be found; +we were therefore obliged to burn part of the small +quantity of oil we had taken with us. By a meridian +observation our latitude was 67° 5' 3" N., variation +of the compass 53° 30' W., and longitude +by account 87° 8' 54" W. The west side of the +creek, and also of the lakes which we passed +over this day, was steep and rocky, although not +high; the east sides were more sloping.</p> + +<p>It was near 10 o'clock at night when we commenced +our journey. After an hour's walk we came +to the north end of the lake, but our young Esquimaux +never having been here before (which was +rather surprising, as his usual winter home was not<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span> +more than ten miles distant), was quite at a loss what +direction to take. It would have been quite easy +for me to have made a straight course by compass, +but by doing so we were very likely to get among +ground so uneven, as to be impassable to the dogs +and sledge. We now turned to the east of north, +and after crossing a number of small lakes, arrived +at the sea (which here formed a deep inlet) at a +few minutes before midnight. Proceeding down +the inlet, which for a couple of leagues was not +more than half a mile wide, with steep rocky shores +(in some places precipitous), we came to rough ice, +and found that there were apparently two openings +leading to the northward. I chose the one to the +left, but we had not gone more than a mile-and-a-half, +when we found that we were in an arm of the +inlet, and that the land to the north of us, which +I had supposed to be an island, was joined to the +mainland by an isthmus not more than 50 yards +wide. This peninsula I named after P. W. Dease, +Esq., the able leader, in conjunction with T. Simpson, +of the expeditions which explored so large a portion +of the Arctic shores in 1837, 1838, and 1839.</p> + +<p>Retracing our steps, we now followed the opening +to the right, in which there were great quantities +of rough ice, over which we advanced but +slowly. The inlet (to which I had given the name of +Cameron, after a friend), soon became broader and +the ice less rough. At 7 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> on the 16th we +arrived at the Cape, which last autumn had been<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span> +named after the late Thomas Simpson, whose agreeable +duty it would have been, had he survived, to +accomplish the survey which I was now endeavouring +to bring to a successful termination. The +shores here were very barren, there being little or +no vegetation to be seen, except small patches in +the crevices of the rocks. In a small lake near our +encampment, from which we obtained water, the +ice was found to be five feet thick. A sufficient +quantity of fuel was gathered to boil our kettle, and +two hares were shot by Corrigal. We here made +a "cache" of some pemmican, flour, &c. for our +return journey. Our snow hut was built on the +south side of the cape, under shelter of rocks, near +which there were two small islands.</p> + +<p>The sledge was to be sent back to Repulse Bay +from this place, and with it Ouligbuck, who from +his inability to walk would have been an incumbrance +to us. The weather was so cloudy that no +observation could be obtained. Our latitude by +account was 67° 22' (which I afterwards found by +observation to be nearly three miles too far north), +longitude 87° 3' W. The whole of these three +days' journeys had been measured with a well +stretched line, but this we could not expect to carry +on further, as each person would have enough to do +with his load.</p> + +<p>Bidding adieu to our companions who were to +return to Fort Hope, we commenced our journey at +half-past 8 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, each of my men being laden<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span> +with about 70 lbs., whilst I carried my instruments, +books, and some other articles, weighing altogether +40 lbs. This was but a light burden for me, but +as I had to examine different objects on the route, +and also to lead the way, I found it quite enough.</p> + +<p>As soon as we had fairly rounded Cape T. Simpson, +the coast turned to the eastward, and became +indented with narrow but deep inlets, all of which +were packed full of rough ice. Walking became +most difficult. At one moment we sank nearly +waist-deep in snow, at another we were up to our +knees in salt water, and then again on a piece of ice +so slippery that, with our wet and frozen shoes, it was +impossible to keep from falling. Sometimes we had +to crawl out of a hole on all fours like some strange-looking +quadrupeds; at other times falling backwards +we were so hampered by the weight of our loads, +that it was impossible to rise without throwing them +off, or being assisted by one of our companions. +We therefore found it better to follow the shores of +the inlets than to cross them, although by doing so +we had double the distance to go over. Numerous +traces of hares were seen, but we could not afford +to lose time in following them.</p> + +<p>After passing four inlets having some small +islands lying outside of them, we came to a rocky +point rather higher than any we had yet met with +on this side of the bay. The coast to the eastward of +Point Cowie (so named after an old friend) became +more level, and instead of granite, was covered with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span> +mud, shingle, and fragments of limestone. At half-past +3 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span>, all of us being sufficiently tired with +our night's work, we built our snow hut and a small +kitchen for cooking. This was our usual practice +when we had found, or were likely to find, +fuel. In the present instance, we had the good +fortune to collect enough to boil a kettle of chocolate, +and we consequently enjoyed an excellent +supper, if I may so term a meal taken about six in +the morning.</p> + +<p>The weather had been fine until midnight, when +it began to snow and drift, with a strong breeze from +the north. Thermometer +13°. At noon the sky +was too much overcast to obtain an observation. +Our latitude was 67° 24' 20" N., longitude 86° 37' W. +both by account.</p> + +<p>When we resumed our journey, at 7 o'clock in the +evening of the 17th, there was still a strong breeze +from N.N.W. with snow drift, the temperature +being +18°. Our snow hut of the previous day we +now found to be on the shore of a large bay, the most +distant point of which bore nearly due north. To +follow the coast would have cost us a great deal of +additional walking; I therefore determined to +attempt the traverse of the bay towards the point +above referred to. All along the coast there was a +belt of rough ice about two miles broad, over which +we were forced to pass before reaching some that +appeared smoother outside. To cross this barrier +occupied us more than two hours, and gave us more<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span> +violent exercise than all the remainder of the day's +journey. It was half-past 3 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> when we arrived +at the north point of the bay, which was low and +level, with some hills a few hundred feet high, +three or four miles inland. We had passed two +small rocky islands to seaward in the first part of +the night, and there was another close to a bluff +point on the south side of the bay. To this cape +I gave the name of Watt. The bay was called +after Lieut. (now Captain) Lefroy of the Royal +Artillery, whose name is well known to the scientific +world, and of whose kindness in aiding me in my +astronomical studies I retain a most grateful remembrance.</p> + +<p>We crossed over to Cape W. Mactavish (so named +after William Mactavish, Esquire, chief trader, an +intimate friend, to whom I am much indebted for +assisting me in fitting out the expedition,) and +stopped about three miles beyond it. Here we +built our snow hut, which was found by meridian +observation to be in latitude 67° 42' 22" N.; the +variation of the compass 80° 35' W., and the longitude +by account 86° 30' W. Directly opposite our +encampment, and extending for about seventeen +miles to the northward of it, there was a large island +of table land, with not a single rock <i>in situ</i> +to be seen on it. Its southern extremity bore +nearly west (true) from us, and the strait which +separated it from the mainland was not more than a +mile and a half wide. This island was honoured<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span> +with the name of His Royal Highness the Prince of +Wales, and a smaller one to the south of it was +named after Colonel Sabine.</p> + +<p>Not a single living animal had been seen all day, +but some traces of deer proceeding northward were +noticed. We were again fortunate enough to find +a little fuel.</p> + +<p>Our route on the following night was nearly +straight in a N.N.E. direction. The snow was very +soft and deep in many places. A few hundred +yards from the beach there were steep banks covered +with shingle and small boulders of granite, where +we usually found the snow less deep, and walking +consequently better. After travelling nine miles +we came to a considerable creek, about twenty +yards wide, in which a deep channel had been worn +among the mud and shingle. Near it there were +numerous Esquimaux marks set up, and circular +tent sites, but all of old date. We continued our +march twelve miles further, and at 8 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> arrived +at another creek somewhat larger than the last, and +with higher banks. Here there were also many +Esquimaux marks, and I afterwards learned that +some parties had resorted hither from Repulse Bay, +for the purpose of catching salmon, trout, &c. +About an hour before reaching this place we crossed +a long and curiously shaped point, which I named +Point Hamilton after a near relative. The bay +formed by it was called Erlandson.</p> + +<p>One of the men, although an able active fellow,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span> +not being used to this sort of exercise, was much +fatigued; and as the weather looked threatening, I +ordered our snow-house to be built—the more +readily as there was fuel to be found. In little +more than a hour and a half we were comfortably +housed, and not long afterwards we had taken our +usual morning meal of pemmican seasoned with a +handful of flour, those forming, when boiled together, +a very nourishing and not unpalatable dish. +The temperature all night had been 22° above zero, +being too warm for walking pleasantly; and the +men, having had to exert themselves much, were +glad to get to rest as soon as possible, whilst I +remained up to obtain a meridian observation of +the sun. This gave latitude 67° 58' 49" N. Our +longitude by account was 85° 59' 36" W. The sun +was too much obscured by clouds to obtain the +variation. We here deposited some pemmican and +a little flour for our return journey.</p> + +<p>When we started at 8 h. 30 m. <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> on the 19th +it blew a gale of wind from S.S.E. with much drift +and snow, the temperature being only 4° below the +freezing point. Fortunately the wind was on our +backs; but the drift was so thick that we were +obliged to follow every turn of the coast, and we +could not see more than twenty yards before us. +When we had travelled six miles we came to a bay +a mile and a half wide, on the north shore of which +there were two strangely shaped rocks of granite, +having the appearance of an old ruin or portion of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[147]</a></span> +a fortress. They were of a square form, each about +twenty-five feet high and nearly as much in extent.</p> + +<p>Our course now lay due north; but we had not +gone more than twelve miles altogether, when the +weather became so unpleasant that we were glad to +get under shelter, and before we did so, every part +of our clothes was penetrated with snow drift. We +could obtain no fuel here.</p> + +<p>The weather continued so stormy that we were +unable to leave our snow-hut until a quarter past +8 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> on the 21st. During our detention, finding +that our provisions would run short if the walking +continued as difficult as it had been, we took only +one not overabundant meal during the twenty-four +hours. There was still some snow falling, so that +I could not take the proper bearings of the land +along which we passed. The land, after we had +proceeded N.E. for a few miles, turned to the southward +of east, forming a bay eight miles wide, which, +as it was full of rough ice, we were under the necessity +of coasting. This bay was called after the +Rt Hon. the Earl of Selkirk, and the cape forming +its western boundary was named after the amiable +lady of our much respected governor, Sir George +Simpson.</p> + +<p>The snow was in many places so soft and deep +that we sank above the knee at every step, which +made our night's march fatiguing in the extreme. +On the N.E. side of Selkirk Bay, which is steep +and rocky, there was a deep indentation or inlet,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[148]</a></span> +into which two small creeks emptied themselves. +The land for five miles had a N.W. trending, and +again turned up to the eastward of N., forming a +high rugged headland, which was named Cape +Finlayson, after Duncan Finlayson, Esq., Chief +Factor. At three miles from Cape Finlayson we +passed Point Barnston, and about four miles beyond +this we came to another rocky point, which received +the name of Cape Sibbald. The night had now +become very disagreeable, with a heavy fall of snow; +we persevered notwithstanding, partly crossing and +partly coasting a bay heaped with rough ice, and +encamped on what I supposed was its northern extremity, +but which afterwards turned out to be an +island, and to which I gave the name of Glen. The +bay we had just passed was called after William G. +Smith, Esq., Assistant Secretary to the Hudson's +Bay Company.</p> + +<p>The snow not being in a good state for building, +we were rather longer than usual in getting housed. +There was no fuel to be found, so we followed our +old plan, and took a kettle or two of snow to bed +with us. The temperature was very high for the +season, being only 5° below the freezing point.</p> + +<p>When we started at a quarter-past 11 on the +22nd, the night was beautifully clear and calm, with +the thermometer at 13° below zero. After a three +hours' walk we arrived at the north point of a bay, +three and a half miles wide, across which we had +come. To the bay I gave the name of Fraser, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[149]</a></span> +to the point that of Corcoran, after two intimate +friends, chief traders of the Company.</p> + +<p>We had not advanced many miles farther, when +some deer were noticed at no great distance, feeding +on the banks of a stream. Being desirous of procuring +some venison if possible, I sent Corrigal +(who, with other good qualities, was a very fair shot) +after them, and he was fortunate enough to shoot a +fine buck. But the buck, though wounded, could +still run too fast to be overtaken, and the sportsman +was just about to give up the chase when I joined +him, and we continued the pursuit together. The +deer, having got a considerable way in advance, had +lain down, but rose up before we could get within +good shooting distance, and was trotting off at a +great pace, when, by way of giving him a parting +salute, I fired, and very luckily sent a ball through +his head, which dropped him. His horns were +already about a foot long, and the venison was in +fine order for the season of the year.</p> + +<p>I immediately returned to the men, who had been +busily employed collecting fuel, of which great +quantities grew along the borders of the creek, and +sent two of them to assist in skinning and cutting +up the deer, whilst I and the other men continued +to gather heather, as we now anticipated great +doings in the kitchen. We placed the greater part +of our venison "en cache," but kept the head, blood, +leg bones, &c., for present use; and being determined<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[150]</a></span> +to lose nothing, the stomach was partially +cleaned by rubbing it with snow, and then cut up +and boiled, which thus made a very pleasant soup, +there being enough of the vegetable contents of the +paunch to give it a fine green colour, although I +must confess that, to my taste, this did not add +to the flavour. Having discussed this mess, a second +kettle full was prepared, composed of the blood, +brains, and some scraps of the meat, which completed +our supper.</p> + +<p>It is well known that both Esquimaux and Indians +are very fond of the contents of the paunch of the +rein-deer, particularly in the spring, when the vegetable +substances on which the animal feeds are said +to be sweeter tasted. I have often seen our hunter, +Nibitabo, when he had shot a deer, cut open the +stomach, and sup the contents with as much relish +as a London alderman would a plate of turtle soup.</p> + +<p>The position of our snow-house was in latitude +68° 33' 26" N., longitude 85° 20' 30" W., both by +account.</p> + +<p>The weather was so stormy during the 23rd that +we could not continue our journey. The thermometer +rose as high as +39° in the shade, and the +melting of the snow having wet the heather, we were +obliged to have recourse to alcohol. Three or four +snow buntings and traces of partridges (<i>tetrao +rupestris</i>) were seen.</p> + +<p>On the 24th it still blew a gale of wind from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[151]</a></span> +the east, but there being a partial thaw by the high +temperature, there was no drift, and much of the +ground was entirely cleared of snow.</p> + +<p>In the evening the weather became more moderate, +and the thermometer fell to 5° below the freezing +point. We started at a few minutes after 10 o'clock, +our course being slightly to the east of north. The +travelling was still very fatiguing, as we were frequently +forced to pass over the rocks, or to walk +along the steep drift banks, in order to avoid the +rough ice which had been heaped up against the +shore. We passed a number of small bays and +points, and when we had advanced fifteen miles, +came to a high cape, which forms the N.W. promontory +of a bay five miles in extent. To the cape +I gave the name of M'Loughlin, after the gentleman +who has been for many years in charge of the +Columbia department, and the bay was called after +my much valued friend Nicol Finlayson, Esq., Chief +Factor. After passing Cape M'Loughlin we turned +to the eastward, toward the head of the bay, and +stopped at 7 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> near the mouth of a creek, where +we took up our quarters for the day.</p> + +<p>There was not so much fuel to be found as at our +last encampment, but we gathered enough to boil +our kettle. Some bands of deer and a few partridges +were observed, but we did not waste time in +endeavouring to get a shot at them. Since leaving +Fort Hope not a day had passed without more or +less snow falling, which made the travelling much<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[152]</a></span> +more difficult than I expected, and our progress +consequently so much slower, that, notwithstanding +the addition I had made to our stock of provisions, +there was some danger of our still running short. +I therefore decided on leaving two of the men here +to fish and shoot, whilst I went forward with the +others.</p> + +<p>There was a little snow falling when, along with +Corrigal and Matheson, I set out at 10 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> on the +25th. The night was mild (6° below freezing) with +a light wind from the east. A walk of two miles +brought us to a head land, which formed the north +side of Finlayson Bay, and which extended seven +miles in a W.N.W. direction. To this cape the +name of Richardson was given, after the distinguished +naturalist, who, having already exposed +himself to many dangers and privations in the cause +of science, is now about to incur similar hardships +in the cause of humanity and friendship, by searching +for Sir John Franklin and his gallant party, whose +situation, it is too much to be feared, is a critical +one.</p> + +<p>At the place where we crossed Cape Richardson +it was not more than a mile wide, and we found +ourselves in a large bay, thickly studded with high +and rugged islands. A chain of these islands, +which lay outside of us, and to which I gave the +name of Pomona, (after the largest island of the +Orcadian group,) had effectually served as a barrier +to the ice from seaward, and had thus made the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[153]</a></span> +walking much smoother than we had hoped to find +it. As we advanced there were many tracks of +polar bears, and also those of a wolverine, that appeared +to follow them very closely, expecting no +doubt to appropriate some portion of whatever prey +they might catch. A flock of long-tailed ducks +passed us, flying to the westward, towards some +open water, the vapour exhaled from which appeared +in that direction.</p> + +<p>As we approached the north side of the bay, +which was named after Nicholas Garry, Esq., of +the Hudson's Bay Company, there were so many +islands that I was much at a loss what direction to +take. Under these circumstances we encamped at +6 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> on a high island, about two miles in diameter, +from which a good view could be obtained. Garry +Bay is the most strangely shaped, and the most irregular +in its outline, of any we had yet seen. It +presented three long, narrow, and high points of +land, and had four inlets. The largest and most +southerly of these points was called after Lieut. +Halkett, R.N., and the most northerly of the inlets +received the name of Black Inlet. As no fuel could +be obtained here, we were reduced to the necessity +of using some more of our alcohol, of which but a +small quantity now remained. The men were soon +asleep under our single blanket, (for this was all the +covering we had for the party,) whilst I remained +awake for the purpose of obtaining an observation +of the sun at noon. This gave latitude 68° 59' 15"<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[154]</a></span> +N., variation of the compass 88° 26' W., our longitude +by account being 84° 48' W.</p> + +<p>All the way between Lefroy and Garry Bays there +is a range of hills, from 500 to 800 feet high, about +five miles from the coast, which was distinguished +by the name of His Royal Highness Prince Albert, +consort of our beloved Sovereign.</p> + +<p>The weather was beautiful all day, and was +equally fine when we commenced our march at half-past +nine at night. Our route lay somewhat to the +west of north, between two lofty islands, the smaller +of which received the name of Gladman, and the +larger and most northerly I designated Honeyman, +after a brother. Seven miles from our encampment +we passed a bluff and precipitous point, the northern +extremity of Garry Bay, to which the name of +Cape Arrowsmith was given, in honour of John +Arrowsmith, Esq., the talented hydrographer to +Her Majesty.</p> + +<p>The land was now completely serrated with narrow +points and inlets, along which we were able to +make nearly a straight course, as the force of the +ice from the westward had been much broken by +ridges of rocks that lay outside of us. To four of +these inlets I gave the names of M'Kenzie, Whiffen, +Bunn, and Hopkins, after much esteemed friends.</p> + +<p>Towards the end of our night's journey the coast +turned nearly due north, and when we had advanced +seven leagues we encamped on Cape Miles,—so +named after Robert Miles, Esq., Chief Factor,—at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[155]</a></span> +7 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> on the 27th. As the morning was exceedingly +fine, we thought there was no necessity for +building a snow-house, an omission which we regretted +in the afternoon, when a heavy fall of snow +took place.</p> + +<p>By a good meridian observation of the sun, the +latitude 69° 19' 39" N., and the variation of the +compass 92° 20' west, were obtained, the longitude +by account being 85° 4' W. The latter is evidently +erroneous, as I had neither chronometer nor +watch that I could place dependence upon, and the +compasses were much affected by local attraction.</p> + +<p>Our provisions being now nearly all used, I could +advance only half a night's journey further to the +northward, and return the following morning to our +present quarters. Leaving one of the men, I set +out with the other at half-past 9 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, the snow +falling fast; and although we had little or nothing +to carry, the travelling was very fatiguing as we +crossed Baker Bay—so named in memory of a much +valued friend—at the north side of which we arrived +after a walk of four miles. It now snowed so thick +that we could not see farther than fifty yards round +us, and we were consequently obliged to follow the +windings of the shore, which, when we had traced +it six miles beyond Baker Bay, turned sharp to the +eastward; but the weather continuing thick, I could +not see how far it preserved this trending. After +waiting here nearly an hour, the sky cleared up for +a few minutes at 4 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span>, which enabled me to discover<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[156]</a></span> +that we were on the south shore of a considerable +bay, and I could also obtain a distinct +view of the coast line for nearly twelve miles +beyond it.</p> + +<p>To the most distant visible point (latitude 69° 42' +N., longitude 85° 8' W.,) I gave the name of Cape +Ellice, after Edward Ellice, Esq. M.P., one of +the Directors of the Company; the bay to the +northward, and the headland on which we stood, +were respectively named after the distinguished +navigators Sir Edward Parry and Captain Crozier.</p> + +<p>Finding it hopeless to attempt reaching the strait +of the Fury and Hecla, from which Cape Ellice +could not be more than ten miles distant, we took +possession of our discoveries with the usual formalities, +and retraced our steps, arriving at our encampment +of the previous day at half-past 8 +<span class="smcap">A.M.</span> Here we found that Matheson, the man left +behind, had built a snow-house after a fashion of +his own, the walls being like those of a stone building, +and the roof covered in the same way with +slabs of snow placed on the opposite walls in a +slanting position, so as to rest on one another in the +centre. Seven hours had been spent in building +this edifice, which was not a very handsome one; +but being sufficiently wide, and, when our legs +were doubled up a little, long enough for us all +when lying down, we found it pretty comfortable.</p> + +<p>During the remaining four hours of our absence, +he had been engaged in an attempt to coax a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[157]</a></span> +little wet moss into a sufficient blaze to boil some +chocolate; but, notwithstanding his most persevering +exertions, by the time his fuel was expended, the +chocolate was little more than lukewarm, although +our cook <i>pro tempore</i>, who was of a sanguine temperament, +firmly believed that it was just about to +reach the boiling point. We finished the process +with a little of our remaining stock of alcohol, and +enjoyed an excellent though rather scanty supper.</p> + +<p>Matheson was one of the best men I ever had +under my command. Always ready, willing, and +obedient, he did his duty in every respect; and +whilst he possessed spirit enough for anything, he +had a stock of good humour which never failed him +in any situation, however difficult and trying. Were +the walking difficult or easy, the loads heavy or +light, provisions abundant or reduced to less than +half allowance, it was all one to Peter Matheson; +he had a joke ready for every occasion.</p> + +<p>A few minutes after 10 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> on the 28th, we +were on the march homeward. The night was very +disagreeable, there being a strong breeze of head +wind with heavy snow, and a temperature much too +mild (only 8° below the freezing point) for walking +comfortably. The snow also was very soft, so that, +had it not been for the bad state of our victualling +department, we would have remained snug in our +quarters. But needs must when hunger drives, so +we trudged on stoutly, crossing over the land for the +purpose of shortening our distance. After a tough<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[158]</a></span> +walk, during which we met with some tracks of +bears that had passed only about an hour before, +we encamped on a small island close to Cape +Arrowsmith, and nearly three miles to the northward +of our snow hut of the 26th. The weather during +the day became fine, so fine indeed that our house, +not being built of good material, tumbled down +about our ears just before we were leaving it.</p> + +<p>29th.—When we started at half-past 9 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, the +night was fine, but in half an hour it began to snow +so thick that we could not keep our course in crossing +Garry Bay, where the walking was much +worse than when we formerly passed. In three +hours the weather again cleared up, and I found +that we had not deviated much from the right road.</p> + +<p>At 7 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> we joined Folster and Mineau, whom +we found quite well, but like ourselves very thin. +The only animals they had killed were two marmots, +and no fish had been caught. If we had been +twelve hours longer absent, they intended to have +boiled a piece of parchment skin for supper, and to +have kept the small remaining piece of pemmican +for travelling provisions.</p> + +<p>I have had considerable practice in walking, and +have often accomplished between forty and fifty, +and, on one occasion, sixty-five miles in a day on +snow shoes, with a day's provisions, blanket, axe, +&c. on my back; but our journey hitherto had been +the most fatiguing I had ever experienced. The +severe exercise, with a limited allowance of food,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[159]</a></span> +had much reduced the whole party, yet we were all +in excellent health; and although we lost flesh, we +kept up our spirits, and marched merrily on, tightening +our belts—mine came in six inches—and feasting +our imaginations on full allowance when we arrived +at Fort Hope.</p> + +<p>On the 30th we continued our course homewards, +crossing over the several points that we had formerly +coasted. It snowed heavily all night, and the temperature +was only two degrees below the freezing +point. Eight cranes "winged their circling flight" +northward, and half a dozen sandpipers were seen. +It was near 4 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> on the 31st when we arrived +at our snow house of the 23rd, which we found +quite as good as when we left it and our cache of +venison all safe. Three partridges were shot, which +somewhat aided our short commons.</p> + +<p>On the following night, after an ineffectual attempt +to get to seaward of the rough ice, in which we lost +a considerable portion of the skin off our shins, we +travelled on the land, making short cuts whenever +practicable.</p> + +<p>On arriving opposite to Glen Island, we found +that it was divided from the shore by a channel not +much more than a quarter of a mile wide. There +was an inlet a few miles in length to the eastward +of it, which was named after the Rev. Mr. Mackar +of Kingston, Canada West. This night was the +finest we had experienced throughout the journey.</p> + +<p>A specimen of trap rock was obtained from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[160]</a></span> +some rising grounds a mile and a half distant from +the north shore of Smith's Bay, near the head of +which we now for the first time observed a lake of +a couple miles in extent. When half a league from +Cape Sibbald, we encamped under shelter of some +precipitous trap cliffs nearly a hundred feet high. +Some more cranes were seen, and numerous traces +of deer and partridges. We here procured some +fuel, there being patches of ground bare of snow. +Our latitude by observation was 68° 19' 50" N. +Variation of the compass 80° 55' W. Two of the +men were affected with snow blindness—one of them +severely.</p> + +<p>1st June.—It blew a gale of wind from S.E., with +thick snow-drift at 8h. 30m. <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> when we resumed +our journey. At half-past 10 we crossed the largest +stream that we had yet met with on Melville Peninsula. +It was already partially open, owing to numerous +springs, which had formed many small +mounds of ice from ten to twelve feet high. After +taking a copious draught from the limpid stream, +we continued our journey across Point Barnston and +Cape Finlayson, until we arrived at Selkirk Bay, +when, the weather having become much worse, we +stopped at 1h. 30m. <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> to build our snow hut at +a place where there was such an abundant supply +of heather, that we had enough to cover our snow-bed +with. Two deer were seen, and Corrigal made +an ineffectual attempt to get a shot at them. I shot +five ptarmigan, and four sandpipers were observed.</p> + +<p>During<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[161]</a></span> the next night's journey the weather was +very snowy, but the wind being more moderate we +got on faster. After coasting Selkirk Bay, we cut +across Cape Lady Simpson, and at half-past 6 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> +on the 3rd of June, we reached our encampment of +the 19th ultimo in Erlandson Bay, where we found +our small "cache" of provisions quite safe. Five +more partridges were shot, and some deer seen. +The snow being very soft, we remained here all +day, and at noon obtained the latitude 67° 59' N., +and variation 75° 9' W. The thermometer in the +shade rose as high as +54°, and our old snow-house +tumbled down about our ears in the evening, just +as we were going to take our supper,—perhaps +breakfast would be the more appropriate term, as +we had turned day into night.</p> + +<p>We started at 8h. 30m. <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, and notwithstanding +the great power of the sun, so much snow had +fallen lately that it lay far deeper on the ground +than when we had previously passed this way. The +walking also was so much more fatiguing, that we +were not able to reach our snow-house of the 18th of +May, and were in consequence under the necessity +of building new lodgings. The night was mild and +nearly calm. Two phalaropes (<i>P. fulicarius</i>) were +seen, and a couple of ptarmigan shot. There was +no fuel to be found here, but having picked up a +little as we came along, we did not feel the want of +it much.</p> + +<p>The 4th was a fine night with the thermometer at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[162]</a></span> ++23°, when, at 7h. 40m., we resumed our march. +Whilst rounding Cape Mactavish we fell in with +nine partridges, seven of which were shot, and I +endeavoured to get within range of a couple of +swans—the first we had seen—but they were too +shy. We now crossed Lefroy Bay, the snow on +which was very soft, and built our snow-house on +the ice at 7h. <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> about four miles from its south +shore. The work during this journey had been so +much more severe than was expected, and the men +had in consequence used so much more tobacco than +they had anticipated, that their stock was now quite +exhausted, and they appeared to feel the want as +much as if they had been deprived of half their +allowance of food,—perhaps more. It was really +amusing to see how very particular they were +in dividing the small remaining bits which they +rummaged from the dust and rubbish in their +pockets, and which at any other time they would +have thrown away. I happened to have a little +snuff with me, a pinch of which, in their necessity, +they relished much.</p> + +<p>We were on foot again at 20 minutes after 8 on +the 5th. The weather had been stormy all day, +but became fine an hour after we started. We kept +well out from land, expecting to find the ice +smoother; and this was the case as far as Point +Cowie; but beyond that the rough ice extended +quite across the bay; we therefore struck in for +the shore, which after two hours' scrambling we<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[163]</a></span> +reached, and directed our course over the rocks,—from +which the snow had now, in many places, +entirely disappeared,—towards Cape T. Simpson, +where we arrived at 5h. <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> on the 6th, and found +our "cache" of provisions, &c., as we had left it. +No time was lost in getting the stones cleared away +from it, not so much for the purpose of having something +to eat, as to find some tobacco that had been +left here among other things. A fine hare had been +shot, and as soon as three of the party, who had +stopped behind to gather fuel, came up, we had a +much more abundant and palatable meal than we +had enjoyed for many days before. To the large +bay, the survey of which we had now completed, +the name of Committee Bay was given, in honor +of the Committee of the Hudson's Bay Company. +This was the finest day we had experienced during +this journey, the power of the sun being so great +as to raise the thermometer to +82°.</p> + +<p>By an excellent meridian observation in quicksilver, +our latitude was 67° 19' 14" N., variation of +compass, 64° 27' W. Wishing to take a straighter, +and consequently shorter, route to Repulse Bay than +that by which we had gone, we started at 9 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> +on the 6th, and after a walk of three hours came to +the head of a narrow inlet, with high rocky shores, +and about seven miles long, to which I gave the +name of Munro. Our course overland was nearly +due south, and we passed over a number of small +lakes, from which the snow had been partially removed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[164]</a></span> +by the joint action of the sun's rays and the +wind.</p> + +<p>On the following night our course continued the +same with a slight inclination to the westward. We +had a strong gale of fair wind, which helped us +along amazingly; but as we could easily reach Fort +Hope in another night, and as we had abundance of +food, we encamped at 3h. 30m. <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> on the 8th, +during the whole of which day, until late in the +evening, it blew hard with drifting snow, so that +no observations could be made.</p> + +<p>Being anxious to arrive at winter quarters early +on the following day, we were again on the march +at half-past 7 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, and the evening having now +become fine, we kept up a smart pace for a few +hours until we arrived at Christie Lake, where, +finding some very fine heather quite dry and free +from snow, it was impossible to resist the temptation +of having something to eat and drink. Having +taken up our quarters in an old snow-hut, the +chocolate and pemmican kettles were soon on the +fire, and we heartily enjoyed our rather unusual +meal. Following the lake and North Pole River, +we came to Fort Hope at 8h. 20m. <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> on the 9th, +all in good health and spirits, but very much reduced +in flesh, although not quite so black as when +we returned from the previous journey.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[165]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Occurrences at Fort Hope during the absence of the exploring +party—Remove from winter quarters to tents—Sun seen at +midnight—Build an oven and bake bread—Esquimaux method +of catching seals—A concert—Lateness of the summer—A native +salmon-wear—Salmon spear—Boulders on the surface of the +ice—Visited by a native from the Ooglit Islands—His report of +occurrences at Igloolik—Indolence of the natives—Ice breaking +up—Halkett's air-boat—A storm—The ice dispersed—Prepare +for sea.</p></div> + +<p>During my absence from Fort Hope little beyond +the usual occurrences of the winter had taken place. +The latter part of May was remarkable for the great +quantity of snow that fell, with gales of wind and +drift, which kept the men almost continually clearing +away snow from the roofs of our houses. They were +obliged even to go to work during the night, and +notwithstanding all the care that was taken, two of +the boats' yards were broken, and the masts very +nearly shared a like fate, as the post placed +under them gave way. For so great a quantity of +snow lodging on our roof, the man left in charge +was to blame, as shortly after my departure he had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[166]</a></span> +the snow thrown up in heaps, which, when the +stormy weather and snow-drift came on, caused drift-banks +to be raised to an equal height (about 4½ feet) +on the tops of our dwellings.</p> + +<p>During all this time the thermometer never fell +lower than +9°, which was on the 16th of May, +and rose as high as +45°, at mid-day on the +29th. The last day of May was very stormy; but +on the 1st of June the weather changed for the better, +although the thermometer was as low as +12°. +On this day the first geese (laughing geese) and +some sandpipers were seen, and one of each was +shot. As the partridges were migrating northward +about thirty had been killed, and there was a good +stock of venison in store, the hunters having shot +twenty deer. The does were now very large with +young, and had become very poor; the bucks were, +however, improving in condition.</p> + +<p>The Esquimaux had brought in little for trade, a +few pairs of boots, which were soon bought up by the +men, and a little oil from Akkeeoulik being the +principal articles. Some of them were getting short +of provisions, not having been able to find a "cache" +which they went for. They had all behaved well, +not having committed any thefts that could be discovered. +We had, however, one most incorrigible +thief among our party, Ouligbuck's son, who, during +the few days of his fathers absence, was twice +caught with the old man's bale open, eating sugar; +some tobacco was also taken, and the trousers of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[167]</a></span> +most of the men were completely cleared of buttons +by the same hands. On my return only one family +of Esquimaux (Shimakuk's) remained near us. +Shimakuk had been waiting for his dogs, which +were with the party who had gone in search of meat.</p> + +<p>On the 13th divine service was read, and thanks +returned to the Almighty for His protection throughout +the winter and during the late journey.</p> + +<p>There was a strong breeze of N. wind, with frequent +showers of snow. House very damp; the +clay falling from the inside of the walls.</p> + +<p>14th.—The weather was fine and permitted us to +get our flour, pemmican, &c., removed from the +meat store (which was now dropping much from +the roof) to the rocks, where it was well covered up +with oilcloths.</p> + +<p>The 20th was a most stormy day with occasional +showers—wind N.W. There was a considerable +stream of water running on the ice of North Pole +River, forming large pools on the sea-ice, through +which it did not yet find a free exit.</p> + +<p>21st.—There was a change in the weather for the +better, although it still blew a gale; however, as the +day advanced the wind became more moderate, and +about noon shifted round to the south.</p> + +<p>The water was rising fast in all the creeks, showing +that the process of destruction was fast going on +among the snow and ice. The latter was still nearly +four feet thick on the lakes, but very porous.</p> + +<p>The great rise of water in the creeks and small<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[168]</a></span> +streams rendered it very unpleasant and even dangerous +to cross them. In attempting to get near +some geese this day I sunk to the waist amidst snow +and water, and not being able to get any firm footing, +I found much difficulty in scrambling out without +wetting my gun.</p> + +<p>23rd.—This being a fine day, all the men were +employed dismantling the house and carrying down +the provisions, clothes, &c. to the summer tents, +which had been pitched about 300 yards nearer +the shore. Two leather tents were put up for cooking +in. We saw the sun at midnight, his lower +limb touching the high grounds to the northward.</p> + +<p>We made some bread in an oven which we had +built of stones cemented with clay of an excellent +quality. The upper part of our first batch was well +baked, but the floor of the oven was not sufficiently +warm to bake the lower part. It however rose well, +and we afterwards succeeded in making excellent +bread, though the oven was heated with heather.<a name="FNanchor_A_4" id="FNanchor_A_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></p> + +<p>15th July.—Weather still stormy and cold to the +feelings, the thermometer being +35°. The water of +North Pole Lake had broken through its barrier of +snow and ice,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[169]</a></span> and was rushing down the river with +great force, carrying with it large masses of ice.</p> + +<p>All the men except Flett, who remained at the +tents, and Germain, who had charge of the nets, +went to North Pole Lake on the 19th to bring down +the boat. The river being one continued rapid +throughout its whole length, with not an eddy to +stop in, they came down at rather a quick rate, but +were compelled to stop within a few hundred yards +of the salt water, on account of the shallowness and +the number of stones. Twenty-two salmon were +caught, some in good condition, others very soft and +thin. The former contained roe about the eighth of +an inch in diameter.</p> + +<p>A number of Esquimaux arrived for the purpose +of catching salmon, having finished their seal hunting, +which had been successful, although the number +killed could not be ascertained. Our old friends +were accompanied by three strangers, viz., an old +man and two young ones, with their wives and +families. Our travelling companion Ivitchuk had +shot some deer with his gun, but having spent +nearly all his ammunition, he requested and obtained +a small additional stock.</p> + +<p>Another Esquimaux, a jolly old fellow, with two +wives, joined the party here; he had come from +the direction of Wager River this spring on the ice. +He and one or two more old men were nearly starved +to death last winter, being so much reduced that +they could not walk. Twenty-three salmon were got<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[170]</a></span> +from the nets; some of these were in very poor condition +being evidently out of season; others were +in fine order and full of roe.</p> + +<p>22nd.—One of the old Esquimaux at the fishery +speared a seal on the ice near the edge of the open +water, but it got away in consequence of the line +breaking. Their mode of approaching the seal requires +much patience and is very fatiguing, as the +hunter must lie flat on his face or on his side, and +advance towards the seal by a series of motions +resembling those of the animal itself. He has frequently +to proceed in this way some hundred yards, +but so well does he act his part that he can get +within a few feet of his object, and a looker-on +would find much difficulty in telling which was the +man and which the seal.</p> + +<p>The seal actually comes to meet the hunter, who, +as soon as it has got some distance from its hole, +springs up and intercepts its return. The women +are very expert at this mode of hunting, and frequently +having no spear, use a small club of wood +with which they strike the seal on the nose.</p> + +<p>The greater part of the Esquimaux were encamped +about a quarter of a mile from us, and had +a <i>concert</i> every night,—a union of the vocal and the +instrumental. Their only musical instrument is a +sort of drum or tambourine, consisting of a stout +wooden hoop, about 30 inches in diameter, round +which, when it is to be used, a wet parchment deer +skin is stretched. In beating this rough instrument,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[171]</a></span> +the hoop, not the skin, is struck. The performer +being in the centre of the tent, keeps turning slowly +round, whilst four or five women add their voices to +the execrable sound, producing among them most +horrible discord. Each of the men in his turn takes +up the drum and thumps away till he is tired, when +he lays it down and another takes his place, and so +on it goes until it has passed through the hands of +all the males of the party, including the boys.</p> + +<p>The whole of the natives, with the exception of a +few old people who were remaining at the fishing +station, and three young men and their wives, went +the following day to an island four miles off for the +purpose of killing more seals, and also to put new +covers on their canoe frames.</p> + +<p>25th.—This was the anniversary of our arrival +here last year; and certainly everything wore a +very different aspect from what it then did. Last +summer at this date there was no ice to be seen in +Repulse Bay; the snow had nearly all disappeared, +and the various streams had shrunk to their lowest +level. <i>Now</i> there was not a pool of water in the bay, +except where the entrance of a river or creek had +worn away or broken up the ice for a short distance. +There was much snow on the ground in many places, +and most of the streams were still deep and rapid.</p> + +<p>The musquitoes were rather troublesome; but +this I was not sorry for, as the Esquimaux said that +the ice in the bay would soon break up after these +tormentors made their appearance.</p> + +<p>As our native friends<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[172]</a></span> were now getting sufficient +fish to maintain them, they required no further +assistance from us at present. Their mode of +catching salmon is a very simple one. They build +a barrier of stones about 1½ or 2 feet high across a +creek, some distance below high-water mark. The +salmon, which keep close to the shore at this season, +are by this means, during the ebb of the tide, cut off +from the sea, and are easily speared. About sixty +were thus killed this day. The spear used is usually +made of two diverging pieces of musk-ox horn, from +4 to 5 inches apart at the extremities; between these +there is a prong of bone about 3 or 4 inches +shorter than the outer ones. Each of the longer +prongs is furnished with a barb on its inner side, +made of a bent nail or piece of bone, which prevents +the fish from escaping. The handle is 6 or 8 +feet long. The head of the instrument much resembles +a three-pronged fork, with the middle prong +a little shorter than the others.</p> + +<p>The moon was full this day. High-water at 45 +minutes past noon. Arkshuk, Shimakuk, and Kei-ik-too-oo +visited us on the 28th, bringing a few +pairs of boots for sale. The tins which contained +preserved meat, and table knives and forks, were in +great demand among these good folks. One of the +ladies to whom I gave a fork, used it as neatly in +eating fish as if she had been accustomed to it from +childhood. Thermometer as high as +60° in the +shade.</p> + +<p>The ice<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[173]</a></span> in the bay had broken up for more than +a mile from the shore opposite the mouth of the +river, but some distance out it looked as white and +firm as ever.</p> + +<p>I had for some time observed that large stones, +some of them of one or two tons weight, were making +their appearance on the ice; and I was much puzzled +to make out how they came there. They could +not have fallen from the shore, as the beach was +sloping at the place, nor had they been carried in by +drift ice of the previous season. The only way that I +could account for it was this. At the commencement +of winter the ice layer acquiring considerable +thickness, had become frozen to the stones lying on +the bottom, and raised them up when the tide came in. +The stones would get gradually enclosed in the ice as +it grew thicker by repeated freezings, whilst by the +process of evaporation, which goes on very rapidly +in the spring, the upper surface was continually +wasting away, so that in June and July there was +little of the first formed ice remaining, and thus the +stones which at first were on the under surface of +the ice appeared on the top. This may perhaps in +some measure account for boulders, sand, shells, &c. +being sometimes found where geologists fancy they +ought not to be. Ice has been time out of mind the +great "conveyancer."</p> + +<p>August 1st.—We were visited this day by an +Esquimaux named I-ik-tu-ang, whom I had not before +seen. He had passed the winter near the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[174]</a></span> +Ooglit Islands, a few days' journey from Igloolik. +He said that, when a boy, he was frequently on board +the Fury and Hecla in 1822-23, and that the "Kabloonans" +killed a number of walruses, and some +black whales, with two small boats; that the walruses +were put in "cache" for them (the Esquimaux), who +were rather short of provisions at the time, and that +they received the <i>skins</i> of the whales. They had +abundance of provisions last winter, but were +visited by a very fatal disease—from what I learnt +of the symptoms, resembling influenza—which carried +off twenty-one grown-up persons. The children +were not attacked with this complaint. Two of the +party at Igloolik had been reduced to the necessity +of putting to death and eating two children, to save +themselves from starvation.</p> + +<p>Four men, whilst hunting the sea-horse with their +canoes lashed together, were assaulted by this fierce +animal, struck down with his formidable tusks, +their canoes capsized and broken, and the whole +party drowned. Another poor fellow having early +in the winter harpooned a walrus through a hole in +the ice, was dragged into the water before he could +disengage himself from the line. The ice being +still thin and transparent, the body was found a few +days after.</p> + +<p>I-ik-tu-ang also informed me—as I had already +supposed from various appearances—that there is +open water throughout the winter between this and the +Frozen Strait, through which a strong current runs<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[175]</a></span> +with the flow and ebb of the tide,—so strong is it +that when bears are pursued and take the water, they +are often swept under the ice and drowned.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon two more Esquimaux with their +wives from the same quarter, accompanied by +Akkee-ou-lik and his family, made their appearance.</p> + +<p>Some of the natives who had taken up their +quarters near us were supplied daily with fish. +They appeared quite as indolent as most of the +other savage tribes of America, and never thought +of looking out for food, so long as they could get +enough to support life from us. Although they +had a wear made for confining the salmon, they +would not take the trouble to spear them when in it.</p> + +<p>We endeavoured to get some young marmots, but +without success. I find that these curious little +animals leave their winter habitations, which are +usually formed in dry sandy banks, as soon as the +snow has in a great measure disappeared, and take +up their summer residence among the rocks, where, +I have no doubt, they are much safer from their +numerous enemies.</p> + +<p>The weather was still fine on the 6th, but it appeared +to have little effect on the ice in the bay, +which still remained hard and fast. All the largest +and deepest lakes were covered with strong ice.</p> + +<p>9th.—On looking out this morning I was happy +to see a lane of open water stretching completely +across the bay, but there was still a strong barrier +between us and the south point, although a passage<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[176]</a></span> +to the northward might easily have been made. +The nets produced eighty salmon, the greater part +of which were given to the Esquimaux. The fishery +was now abandoned, as we could procure close at +hand as many salmon as we required.</p> + +<p>During the whole of our spring fishing Halkett's +air-boat was used for setting and examining the +nets, and was preferred by the fishermen to the +large canvas canoe, as it was much lighter, and +passed over and round the nets with more facility. +Notwithstanding its continued use on a rocky +shore, it never required the slightest repair. It is +altogether a most useful little vessel, and, as I have +said before, ought to form part of the equipment of +all surveying parties, whether by land or sea.</p> + +<p>The men from the fishery were followed soon +after by the Esquimaux with their baggage, which +it took more than a dozen trips of our canoe to +ferry over.</p> + +<p>The large lakes were still covered with a thick +coat of ice. There were a great many seals in the +open water, and some of the fish in the nets had +been eaten by them.</p> + +<p>10th.—A storm from the north with rain and +snow until noon, when the wind somewhat abated, +and the weather cleared up. Great havoc was made +among the ice, and in the evening there was a clear +sea as far as the point of the bay.</p> + +<p>11th.—There was a gale of wind all day with +rain occasionally—the weather cold and unpleasant.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[177]</a></span> +We were all busily employed in preparing for sea. +All the snow-banks for six or eight feet from the +ground having been converted into solid ice soon after +the spring thaw commenced, we had to dig out the +chain and anchor of one of the boats, which were +buried under ice of that thickness; yet on the very +spot where this chain and anchor lay, there was +not a particle of either ice or snow on the 25th +July last year; such is the variable nature of this +northern climate.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon Nibitabo was sent to endeavour +to get some fresh venison for our voyage, and shot +two young deer; St. Germain and Mineau set the +nets for a supply of salmon, and I was busy distributing +among the Esquimaux axes, files, knives, +scissors, &c. &c. &c.</p> + +<p>The large lakes were still covered with ice, but +in the bay there was little or none to be seen.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTE:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="Footnote_A_4" id="Footnote_A_4"></a> +<a href="#FNanchor_A_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> +Receipt.—Seven lbs. flour, 1 oz. carbonate soda, ¾ oz. citric +acid, ¾ oz. common salt, water (cold), about ½ gallon. The salt, +soda, and acid being finely powdered and dry, are to be well mixed +together; this mixture being well wrought up with the dry flour, the +water is to be added in 2 or 3 parts and mingled with the flour as +quickly as possible; the dough being put into pans is immediately +to be placed in the oven. +</p></div> + +</div> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[178]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER IX.</h2> + +<p>Voyage from Repulse Bay to York Factory.</p> + + +<p>Having got every thing ready, the boat launched +and loaded about 2 o'clock <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> on the 12th of +August, I was about to distribute our spare kettles, +some hoop iron, &c. among the Esquimaux, when the +compass of one of the boats was missing. Search was +made, but no compass was to be found. At last I +thought of turning over some heather that lay close to +where my tent had been, and there discovered it. It +had been concealed by one of the Esquimaux women—a +widow—to whom more presents had been made +than to any of the others.</p> + +<p>Some of the most decent of the men appeared +really sorry at parting, and waded into the water to +shake hands with me.</p> + +<p>We got under weigh with a light air of wind +from the N.E. at 25 minutes past 2. Our progress +was very slow, there being frequent calms, so that, +between pulling and sailing, we reached only to +within five miles of Cape Hope at 4 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[179]</a></span> +13th. A large black whale and some white ones, +with innumerable seals, were seen. Thermometer +at +65; but it became much colder after the wind +came from sea. During the night we sailed among +loose ice. As it was still calm we anchored at half-past +4 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> to wait for the other boat, which was +some miles astern, to re-stow the cargo and cook +breakfast. Thermometer at 5 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> +48°.</p> + +<p>At half-past 6 we began pulling along shore. An +hour afterwards a light breeze sprung up, but still +ahead. The breeze becoming stronger, we hoisted +sail and turned to windward, and would have made +good progress had it kept steady; instead of which +it followed or rather preceded the sun in his course +westward, and thus headed us at every point we +weathered. The flood-tide assisted us until 4 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, +when we put ashore, as the ebb was too strong for +us. Shot a young Arctic hare. There is a number +of long narrow lakes near the point we stopped at, +which is formed of grey and red granite and gneiss, +and is about five miles from the S.E. point of +Repulse Bay. Caught three species of marine +insects with fins, which they use like wings: preserved +specimens of them. Every appearance of +rain this evening. Thermometer +65° at 8 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span></p> + +<p>14th. The wind shifted to the N.N.W. at half-past +9 last night, when we immediately got under +weigh and sailed cautiously along shore, examining +every bay and inlet when I supposed us near the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[180]</a></span> +northern outlet of Wager River, but not a trace of +it was to be seen. If it exists, I think it not likely +that it should have escaped our notice twice. The +wind was for a few hours variable and squally; but +it now shifted to N.E. by N. and blew hard. In +crossing Wager River Bay, eight or ten miles +from shore, there was a very heavy cross sea, +which washed over our gunwales occasionally. +On nearing the shore the run of the sea became +more regular; but the wind increased so as +to make it necessary to reef sails. The weather +assuming a very threatening appearance, and the +navigation being intricate and dangerous, we were +forced to seek a harbour, which, after some difficulty, +we found in a small bay at 8 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, having +run from ninety to ninety-five miles, seventy-three +of which were measured by Massey's patent log. +Two white bears and many walruses were seen on +a small island near Whale Island; but the weather +was too stormy to permit us to pursue them.</p> + +<p>It had been my intention to cross over to Southampton +Island and trace that portion of the coast +from Port Harding southward which had not yet +been surveyed; but a stream of ice and the state of +the weather prevented my doing so, nor did I think +it an object of sufficient importance to detain the +expedition a day or two for that sole purpose. +Thermometer about +41° all day.</p> + +<p>The male eider and king ducks appeared to have<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[181]</a></span> +left this coast already, there being none but females +seen. Our boat took the ground about half ebb—a +fine bottom of sand and mud.</p> + +<p>15th.—It blew a complete gale all night and +during the greater part of this day. The sky, +however, was sufficiently clear to allow me to obtain +a meridian observation for latitude and variation. +The former was found to be 64° 49' 06" N.—the +latter 41° 27' W. Thermometer +46°.</p> + +<p>The wind began to fall in the evening, and the +tide having come in so as to float the boats, we +started at 4 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> under reefed sails. The sea was +still running high, but it was long and regular; +and as there was every appearance of fine weather, +I determined to sail all night, keeping a sharp look-out +ahead for shoals, reefs, and islets. There was +a heavy swell all night which broke with great +violence on the reefs; and it being very dark, both +boats were once or twice nearly filled by getting +into shallow water before we were aware of it.</p> + +<p>16th.—At half-past 5 this morning we were opposite +Cape Fullerton, and at 6 Massey's log was +examined, when it indicated a run of seventy-two +miles. At 9 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> it fell calm. Thermometer +43°. +An hour afterwards there was a light breeze from +S.W., with which we turned to windward among +numerous rocky islands.</p> + +<p>At noon the latitude, 63° 56' 13" N., was observed, +and shortly afterwards two Esquimaux were seen +coming off in their kayaks, paddling at a great rate;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[182]</a></span> +but the breeze had now freshened, and it would +have given them hard work to overtake us had we +not shortened sail, and afterwards landed on an +island, where we waited for them. Three more +joined us there. They were very dirty, and far +inferior in every respect to our friends of Repulse +Bay. One of them was about five feet eight inches +high, had a formidable beard and moustache, and +was better looking than the others. After making +them some presents we shoved off, and stood across +the bay to the westward of Cape Fullerton. This +bay is much deeper than it is laid down in the +chart, and is crowded with islands.</p> + +<p>It was near high water when we reached the +main shore, and as we could make no progress +against wind and tide, we put into a safe harbour. +Nothing was to be seen for a mile or two inland +but rocks, clothed in some spots with moss or grass. +Deer were observed, and a young one shot by +Nibitabo.</p> + +<p>About an hour after our landing the wind shifted +to W.N.W., and, as I was afraid of getting aground +in our present berth, the boats were moved to a +more open situation from which they could start at +any time of tide.</p> + +<p>The Esquimaux could tell us nothing about +Churchill, none of them having visited that place +either this or the previous summer. Thermometer +at 9 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> +53.</p> + +<p>17th.—We were under weigh at 2 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span>, but the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[183]</a></span> +wind was both light and close, so that our progress +was slow. Before the tide changed it came more +from the southward; we were therefore obliged to +anchor as soon as it began to ebb. The latitude of +our harbour was 63° 47' 33" N. Var. 31° 8' W. +The rocks, like those where we landed last night, +were grey granite and gneiss. Thermometer at +noon +60°. A large black whale was seen this +morning.</p> + +<p>At half-past 1 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> the tide began to flow, and +at two we were under sail, the wind having gone +round to the northward, so as to permit us to lie +our course along shore. A succession of reefs lines +the coast, which is itself very irregular in its outline, +being indented with numberless inlets, some of +them running many miles inland.</p> + +<p>The tide began to ebb at 8 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, and as the wind +had fallen and headed us, we ran in shore and cast +anchor under the shelter of some rocks. It was +just getting dark when a fresh breeze of fair wind +sprung up. This was annoying enough. At 10 +o'clock nine Esquimaux visited us, but staid only a +short time, as we were to stop near their tents in +the morning. Two of them said they would sleep +on the rocks near us, with the intention of pointing +out the deepest channel when we should resume +our voyage.</p> + +<p>18th.—We started at daylight this morning, but +the fair wind, which had continued all night, soon<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[184]</a></span> +failed us. Aided by the flood-tide, however, an +hour's rowing brought us to the encampment of our +last night's visitors, who welcomed us with much +noise, and soon brought to the beach a number of +furs and other articles for trade. They were very +easy to deal with, apparently putting implicit confidence +in our honesty; nor were they losers by this +conduct. Ammunition was the article chiefly in +demand, as they had two guns among the party. +Files, knives, fire-steels, &c. were distributed among +the men, and beads, needles, buttons, &c. among +the women. One of the women was rather good-looking, +but they were all much darker than the +natives of Repulse Bay. They were well provided +with food, as they had a large seal lying on the +rocks, besides venison. It was still calm when we +left them, but favoured by the ebb-tide we pulled out +of the inlet, and shaped our course towards Chesterfield +Inlet, which we crossed with the last of the +flood. The day was beautiful—far too much so—and +the few light airs of wind were all against us. +We landed in a small cove on the south side of the +inlet to pick up a deer that was shot from the boat. +Four more deer were killed, but all in poor condition.</p> + +<p>About two miles to the northward of the inlet I +obtained a meridian observation of the sun in the +natural horizon, which gave latitude 63° 32' 00" N. +Thermometer at noon +65°, and in the evening<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[185]</a></span> ++70°. The musquitoes were very numerous and +troublesome. Numbers of turnstones (<i>Tringa interpres</i>) +were seen.</p> + +<p>19th.—There was a fine breeze again all last +night, which died away at daylight. As soon as +the flood-tide began to come in, we started with a +light wind fair enough to allow us to lie our course +along shore for a few miles. It again fell calm, when +we took to the oars and landed on a point five miles +to the southward of our last night's harbour, where +we breakfasted at 9 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span></p> + +<p>Dovekies in countless numbers were sitting on +the stones, and swimming along the shore;<a name="FNanchor_A_5" id="FNanchor_A_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> one or +two pintailed and mallard ducks were seen on a +lake a few hundred yards inland—the first we have +seen since passing Nevill's Bay last year. Some +dovekies' eggs were found with the birds formed +in them.</p> + +<p>Having obtained a meridian observation of the +sun, which gave for the latitude 63° 17' 00" N., and +variation 9° 21' W., we got under weigh and beat to +windward with the last of the ebb, which here ran +to the south. There was a fine breeze, but we +made only about five miles southing, when at 6 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> +the flood<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[186]</a></span> +setting in strong against us, we put ashore +for the night under the lee of the point. It was +not easy to find a harbour, all the coast from +Chesterfield Inlet being flat and stony, and lined +with shoals. A young buck was shot, but it was +in poor condition. Thermometer at noon +63°—at +8 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> +57°. Some of the copper came off +our boat to-day and stopped her way before it was +observed.</p> + +<p>20th.—We were under weigh this morning by +daylight, but the wind was right ahead and blowing +fresh. Some more copper came off the boat, and +she was evidently out of trim, as the Magnet went +fast to windward of us. She had become leaky +also, and therefore I determined to lay her aground +as soon as the tide turned.</p> + +<p>We had gained between six and seven miles, +when, finding that we made but slow progress, I +put on shore at the first place that offered shelter, +a little before noon. Several deer were seen, and a +large buck shot, which I was surprised to find very +lean. At this season, near Repulse Bay they are +in fine condition. Thermometer at noon +61°. At +half-past 2 the wind changed to W.N.W., but it +blew a gale before the tide flowed sufficiently to +float us. We could do nothing but haul out into +deeper water, to be ready by dawn next morning.</p> + +<p>Some pintails, mallards, and Hutchins and +laughing geese were seen here; also a brood of +well-grown young king-ducks in a small lake at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[187]</a></span> +some distance from the sea, with which it had no +connection.</p> + +<p>Just as our boats floated, the wind became more +moderate; and as we had still an hour and a half +of daylight, we sailed along the coast for 4½ miles, +being forced to keep some miles from shore to +avoid shoals. Soon after sunset we ran into a bay +for shelter during the night. In doing so we +grazed some ridges of stones, but found good +anchorage in four fathoms water. Thermometer ++47°.</p> + +<p>21st.—Thermometer +44°. There was a strong +breeze with heavy squalls from the north all night. +On starting at daylight and making for the only +outlet that appeared, we found it too shallow, and +so were forced to wait the flow of the tide. The +wind was W. by N., but gradually shifted round +against us and became very light. We managed, +however, to reach an island near the north point of +Rankin's Inlet.</p> + +<p>Although there was a fine breeze, it being right +ahead, nothing was to be gained against the ebb +tide.</p> + +<p>We found many old signs of Esquimaux visits +to the island. Among other articles picked up +were an ivory snow-knife, a drill for producing fire, +and an iron drill; also some vertebrę of a whale +measuring ten inches in diameter. There were +numerous graves of Esquimaux here, with spears,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[188]</a></span> +lances, &c. deposited beside them. Most of these +articles were old and much corroded with rust, but +a very excellent seal-spear head had been placed +there this spring. Thermometer at noon +52°; +8 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> +47°. Temperature of water +41°.</p> + +<p>22nd.—Thermometer +42°. At a little before +5 this morning the wind shifted to S.S.E. We set +out to cross Rankin's Inlet, although we could not +lie our course, and after five hours' sailing reached +an island near the south shore, where we landed, +as the breeze had increased to a gale and gone +more to the southward, with a heavy sea, which +washed over us occasionally. We here picked up +some specimens of copper ore, but the ore did not +appear to be abundant.</p> + +<p>The aurora was very bright last night. It appeared +first to the S.S.E., moved rapidly northward, +spreading all over the sky, and finally disappearing +in the north. This agrees with what +Wrangel asserts, "that the aurora is affected by +the wind in the same way as clouds are." Heavy +rain and a strong gale from noon until 8 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> +Temperature of water +42°; air +43°.</p> + +<p>23rd.—The wind was right ahead but light this +morning. We got under weigh and beat to windward +some miles, alternately sailing and pulling +until we reached the north point of Corbett's Inlet. +We were here visited by eighteen Esquimaux in +their kayaks. All the news they could give us was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[189]</a></span> +that one of Ouligbuck's sons had passed the winter +near this place, and that he had walked to Churchill +in the winter, where all were then well. A +brisk trade was soon opened; the articles in greatest +request being powder and ball. Some fox and +wolf skins were received; but before they had +brought out the half of their stock, the wind +changed from S.W. to N.W. by W. and blew a +gale, which soon raised a sea that washed over the +canoes alongside. Being anxious to take advantage +of the fair wind to cross Corbett's Inlet before +dark, after making our friends presents of various +articles, we set sail and ran across the inlet, encountering +a heavy sea caused by a swell from the +south meeting the waves raised by the present gale. +We were three hours crossing to the south point of +the inlet, off which lie some dangerous reefs five +or six miles from land. The wind was very close +as we turned the point; and after gaining six miles +further, we were forced to make a number of tacks +before getting into a harbour, which proved to be +an excellent one, land-locked on all sides. Little +soil was to be seen on the rocks, which were of +granite. We had shipped a good deal of water, +and it was past 9 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> when we got under shelter. +Thermometer +45°. Hundreds of grey phalaropes +were seen, supposed to be Phalaropus fulicarius.</p> + +<p>24th.—It blew so hard this morning that we +could not start until 8 o'clock. The wind after that +moderated gradually, and latterly fell calm. By<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[190]</a></span> +rowing we arrived at the S.E. end of the island<a name="FNanchor_A_6" id="FNanchor_A_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> +near Whale Cove, where we were visited by a party +of natives, who brought off some furs and boots for +trade. A breeze from S.S.E. sprung up about +1 o'clock, with which we turned to windward +through a narrow channel between a small island +and the main. When we reached the open sea the +wind was too much ahead for us to advance against +the ebb tide, and as a convenient harbour offered +itself, we anchored for the night. Our latitude at +noon was 62° 13' 19"; after which we advanced +about four miles to the southward. Ouligbuck told +us that, when a little boy about seven years old, +he visited this place with his parents, and went out +to Sea-Horse Island on the ice to hunt the animals +from which it takes its name. Three large black +whales were seen to-day. Thermometer +46°, ++53°, and +42°.</p> + +<p>I was much pleased to observe that the nearer we +approached to Churchill, the more confidence the +Esquimaux placed in us. They fixed no price for +their goods, but threw them on board the boat, and +left it to me to pay them what I pleased. This +confidential mode of dealing, which is not in keeping +with the habits of the Esquimaux tribes, at least +shows that they are satisfied with the treatment they +receive at Churchill. To the Hudson's Bay Company, +indeed, they have much reason to be grateful +for having,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[191]</a></span> by their influence, at last created a +friendly feeling between them and the Chipewyans, +with whom they used to be at constant and +deadly enmity.</p> + +<p>25th.—There was heavy rain all last night, +which continued until between 9 and 10 o'clock +this morning. We then got under weigh with the +first of the flood, but it fell calm. We rowed for +fourteen or fifteen miles, the rain pouring all the +time. A fine breeze from N. by E. sprung up at +4 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, before which we ran direct for the passage +between Sir Bibye's Islands; but finding the water +become very shallow, and learning from Ouligbuck +that there was not water enough for boats except at +full tide, we kept outside the islands altogether. +We reached the main land a little after sunset at the +south point of Nevill's Bay, and ran for shelter into +a small inlet separated on the south by a narrow +point from a deep river, to which the Esquimaux +resort to catch salmon. Thermometer +37° and ++41°. As the moon was full, I at first intended +running on all night, but the threatening look of the +weather deterred me.</p> + +<p>26th.—Last night, about an hour after casting +anchor, the moon became overcast, and it blew a +perfect gale. On landing this morning we found a +quantity of wood, a large sledge 30 feet long, and +some slender pieces of wood fastened together to +the length of 40 feet. There were two of these poles, +which are used by the natives for spearing small<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[192]</a></span> +seals. It is said that, in Davis' Straits, the Esquimaux +use poles of the same kind for spearing whales.</p> + +<p>As the bay in which we were lying was not very +safe should the wind change, we got under weigh +and turned into the mouth of the river under close-reefed +sails. The boats shipped much water, particularly +the Magnet, keeping a man constantly baling. +We at last got under the lee of a point where there +was a sandy bottom, but not water enough to float +the boats at low tide. The river is about a mile +broad, and deep enough in the middle for a vessel +drawing 12 or 14 feet water.</p> + +<p>We saw a number of whalebone snares set along +the edges of the lakes for geese, large flocks of +which were feeding about, but very shy. There +was a storm from N.N.W. all the afternoon with +heavy rain. Thermometer +36°.</p> + +<p>27th.—It felt very cold this morning; the thermometer +was at the freezing point, and there was some +snow. The storm had continued all night with +increasing strength, but towards day-light the +weather became more moderate, so that about 9 +o'clock we were able to start under reefed sails. +The breeze gradually died away and went round to +the S.W., and it finally became calm. Heavy rain +and sleet began to fall; the wind veered round to +the S.E., so that we could lie our course, and make +good progress with the flood.</p> + +<p>At 6 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> we reached a bay a few miles north of +Knapp's Bay, which I had not noticed on our outward<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[193]</a></span> +voyage, and which is not laid down on the +charts. It is about ten miles wide and eight deep; +the water in it is very shallow, no where exceeding +ten feet; and as it was within an hour or two of +high water, the greater part of it must be dry when +the tide is out.</p> + +<p>Numbers of Brent geese were feeding in all directions +on a marine plant (<i>zostera marina</i>, Linn.) +which grows here in great abundance.</p> + +<p>We anchored under the lee of an islet in Knapp's +Bay, a very small portion of which was visible at +high water. Thermometer +38°.</p> + +<p>28th.—We were under weigh at day-light this +morning, with a strong breeze of north-west wind, +which made us close-reef our sails. There was a +heavy sea in Knapp's Bay. At 8 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> we passed to +the westward of the island, under which we found +shelter during the gale of the 8th of July last. The +wind was cold, with occasional showers of rain. +Great numbers of geese were seen passing to the +southward. In the evening the wind became more +moderate and finally calm. Our water-kegs being +empty, I ran inshore a little before sunset, and entered +Egg River, in which we found a safe harbour. +This river discharges a considerable body of water +into the sea by five mouths, separated by four islets. +There is no island lying opposite to its mouth, as +represented in the charts. Thermometer from +35° +to +40°.</p> + +<p>29th.—The boat lay afloat all the night, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[194]</a></span> +was fine but dark. There was not a breath of wind +until 7 o'clock. An hour after starting, a moderate +breeze sprung up from W. by N., but soon became +light and variable, and at last it fell calm a short +time before sunset, when, having gained about 40 +miles, we pulled into a small bay, which afforded +us good shelter. The day was fine throughout, +with occasional light showers of rain. Thermometer +from +45° to +52°.</p> + +<p>The sky was too much overcast for me to obtain +any observation, but it appears to me that Egg +River is laid down in the charts about 12 miles too +far to the southward, and Egg Island is 12 miles +south of the river instead of being near its mouth, as +there represented.</p> + +<p>30th.—We had 13 feet water last night when the +tide was in, but it was not until the flood had made +two hours that we floated. The night was as fine +as the last and calm. There was a light air of west +wind when we got under weigh, with which and the +flood-tide we slipped alongshore pretty fast. In an +hour or two the wind began to fly about from all +points, with calms between, so that even with the +help of our oars we only made 22 miles; and not +being able to reach Seal River, we ran into a small +bay—the only spot that appeared clear of stones +for some miles—about 12 miles north of it. Here +abundance of drift wood was found, with which the +men lighted fires sufficiently large for the coldest +winter night. The evening was very warm, and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[195]</a></span> +musquitoes were troublesome. The country inland +is well wooded. Great numbers of mallard, teal, +pintails, and long-tailed ducks were seen, but only +two or three were shot.</p> + +<p>31st.—Left our harbour as soon as the tide permitted, +which was at 7 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> A light but fair breeze +from N. by W. gradually increased, so that we +made a fine run across Button's Bay, which is as +full of rocks and shoals as represented in the charts, +and entering Churchill River a few minutes after +1 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, landed in a small cove a few hundred yards +above the Old Fort.</p> + +<p>On visiting the Company's establishment, I found +that Mr. Sinclair was absent at York Factory; but +I was very kindly received by Mrs. Sinclair, and +liberally supplied with everything we required for +the continuation of our voyage. As we had carried +away our bowsprit, Turner was set to make a new +one.</p> + +<p>I received many letters from much valued friends, +and after remaining for a few hours, returned to the +boats at 9 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> in order to be prepared for starting +early in the morning, should wind and weather +prove favourable. The stock of provisions on hand +was eight bags of pemmican and four cwt. of flour. +We left Ouligbuck and his son at Churchill.</p> + +<p>3rd September.—For the last two days the wind +had been fair, but blowing a gale, with such a +heavy sea that we could not proceed. The weather +was so cloudy that I could obtain no observations;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[196]</a></span> +I therefore employed most of my time in shooting +Esquimaux curlews, which were so abundant near +the Old Fort that I bagged seven brace in a few +hours.</p> + +<p>This morning the wind shifted more to the westward, +and becoming more moderate, we got under +weigh at 9 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> There was still a heavy swell outside +and at the entrance of our little harbour. +Whilst coming out in the dawn of the morning +three seas came rolling in one after the other, +and broke completely over the bows of the boat, +washing her from stem to stern. I thought she +would have filled, but we got into deep water before +any more seas caught her. The Magnet was even +more roughly handled in following us, having +shipped much water and struck heavily on the +rocks—fortunately without damage. The wind died +away, and during the morning shifted to south. We, +however, reached Cape Churchill, and at 8 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> +cast anchor under its lee, exactly opposite an old +stranded boat.</p> + +<p>4th.—We had a breeze from S.W. by S. to-day, +which enabled us to get along the coast sixteen or +eighteen miles during the flood. It blew so hard in +the afternoon that we required to double-reef our +sails. The weather was very warm, the thermometer +being as high as +60° in the shade. A +Canada nuthatch (<i>sitta Canadensis</i>) flew on board +to-day, and was very nearly caught. There were a +good many ducks and geese near the place where<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[197]</a></span> +we landed to get fresh water. Between thirty and +forty of the former and two of the latter were shot. +The boats were allowed to take the ground, after +two hours' ebb, on a fine shingle beach, on which +a considerable surf was breaking.</p> + +<p>5th.—It was calm all night. At 3 this morning +the boat floated, and we pushed out a short distance +from shore to be ready for the first fair wind. +At half-past seven a light air sprung up from N.E., +but did not increase till past noon, when there was +a fine breeze. A meridian observation of the sun +gave latitude 58° 26' 14" N. At 5 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> we were +opposite the mouth of Broad River, latitude +58° 7' 0" N. Thermometer at noon +56°.</p> + +<p>6th.—We were under weigh this morning a little +before daylight with the wind from N.E. The +weather was so thick that we could not see +more than a hundred yards ahead. We, however, +ran on by soundings until I thought we were near +North River, and then kept inshore until we got +sight of land, which proved to be close to Nelson +River, across which we stood, directing our course +by compass, and coming in directly opposite the +beacon. We arrived at York Factory between 9 +and 10 o'clock, <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> and were warmly welcomed by +our friends, who had not expected to see us until +next summer.</p> + +<p>In justice to the men under me, let me here express +my thanks for their continued good conduct +under circumstances sometimes sufficiently trying;—in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[198]</a></span> +fact, a better set of fellows it would be difficult to +find anywhere.</p> + +<p>As to their appearance when we arrived at York +Factory, I may adopt the words of Corporal M'Laren +in charge of the Sappers and Miners who are to +accompany Sir John Richardson,—"By George, +I never saw such a set of men."</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_5" id="Footnote_A_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> The dovekie, or black guillemot (<i>Uria grylle</i>), breeds in +great numbers in the Orkney islands. I believe ornithologists +are mistaken in supposing that this bird becomes white or rather +grey during the winter. It is only the young birds that are so; +the old ones are seen in winter without any change in the colour +of their summer plumage.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_6" id="Footnote_A_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> This place is laid down on the chart as an island, but is a peninsula +according to the account we received from the Esquimaux.</p> +</div> + +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[199]</a></span></p> +<h2>APPENDIX.</h2> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<h3>LIST OF MAMMALIA,</h3> + +<div class="center"><i>Collected during Mr. Rae's Expedition, with Observations +by J. E. Gray, Esq., F.R.S. &c.</i></div> + +<div class="hang"> +<p>1. <i>Mus Musculus.</i> Linn. York Factory. Probably introduced +from Europe.</p> + +<p>2. <i>Arctomys Parryi.</i> Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. p. +158, tab. 10.</p> + +<p>3. <i>Lepus Glacialis.</i> Leach. Richardson, Faun. Bor. +Amer. 221.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Myodes.</span>—The specimens brought by the expedition have +enabled me to make some corrections in the +characters assigned to these species. I may +observe that the large size or peculiar form of +the claws which has been regarded as a character +of the species, appears to be peculiar to +one sex—probably the males.</p> + +<div class="hang1"> +<p>1. <i>The upper cutting teeth narrow, smooth without +any longitudinal groove. Thumb with a compressed +curved acute claw.</i> (Lemnus).</p> + +<p><i>Myodes, Lemnus Pallas.</i> Glires 77 of Sweden.</p> + +<p><i>Myodes Helvolus.</i><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[200]</a></span> Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. p. +128, belong to this section. All the museum +specimens of these species have small, simple, +curved, acute claws.</p> +</div> + +<p>4. <i>Myodes Hudsonius.</i> Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. +132.</p> + +<div class="hang1"> +<p>Grey, black washed beneath white, sides reddish, +sides of the neck red, nose with a central +black streak, claws of male(?) very large, compressed, +equal, broad to the end, and notched; +of female small, acute. In winter with very +long black white-tipped hairs. Mr. Rae brought +home two males, one in winter and one in +change fur, and two females in summer fur.</p> +</div> + +<p>5. <i>Myodes Greenlandicus.</i></p> + +<div class="hang1"> +<p>Reddish-grey, brown, black varied, back with a +longitudinal black streak, beneath grey brown, +chest, nape, and sides ruffous. Front claw +of males(?) compressed, curved, the under +surface (especially of the middle one) with a +broad, round, expanded tubercle. I have not +seen this species showing any change in its +winter fur.</p> + +<p>2. <i>Upper cutting teeth broader, with a central longitudinal +groove. The claw of the front thumb strap-shaped, +truncated, and notched at the tip.</i></p> +</div> + +<p>6. <i>Myodes Helvolus.</i> Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. 128. +(female?)</p> + +<div class="hang1"> +<p>Fur very long, black, grey-brown; black grizzled, +hinder part of the body reddish, beneath grey, +sides yellowish. Claws of the fore feet (of the +males?) large, thick, rounded, curved, bluntly +truncated at the tip; of the female compressed, +curved, acute.</p> +</div> + +<p>7. <i>Myodes Trimuconatus.</i><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[201]</a></span> Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. +130.</p> + +<div class="hang1"> +<p>Bright red brown, head blackish-grey, sides and +beneath pale ruffous, chin white, claws moderate, +compressed. This species is best distinguished +from the former by its larger size and +the great brightness of the colour, and the fur +being much shorter and less fluffy.</p> +</div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<h3>LIST OF THE SPECIES OF BIRDS</h3> + +<div class="center"><i>Collected by Mr. Rae during his late Expedition, named +according to the "Fauna Boreali-Americana," by +G. R. Gray, Esq., F.L.S.</i></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Falconidę.</span></p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Aquila (Pandion) halięeta.<br /> +Falco peregrinus.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" islandicus.</span><br /> +Accipiter (Astur) palumbarius.<br /> +Buteo lagopus.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" (Circus) cyaneus.</span><br /> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Strigidę.</span></p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Strix brachyota.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" funerea.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Tengmalmi.</span><br /> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Janiadę.</span></p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Tyrannula pusilla.<br /> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Merulidę.</span></p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Merula solitaria.<br /> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Sylviadę.</span></p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Sylvicola ęstiva.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" coronata.</span><br /> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[202]</a></span><span style="margin-left: 1em;">" striata.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" (Vermivora) rubricapilla.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" " peregrina.</span><br /> +Seiurus aquaticus.<br /> +Anthus aquaticus.<br /> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Fringillidę.</span></p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Alauda cornuta.<br /> +Emberiza (Plectrophanes) nivalis.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">" " lapponica.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">" " picta.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">" canadensis.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">" (Zonotrichia) leucophrys.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">" " pennsylvanica.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">" " iliaca.</span><br /> +Fringilla hyemalis.<br /> +Pyrrhula (Corythus) enucleator.<br /> +Logia leucoptera.<br /> +Linaria minor.<br /> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Sturnidę.</span></p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Quiscalus versicolor.<br /> +Scolecophagus ferrugineus.<br /> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Corvidę.</span></p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Garrulus canadensis.<br /> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Picidę.</span></p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Picus (Apternus) tridactylus.<br /> +Colaptes auratus.<br /> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Rasores.</span></p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Tetrao canadensis.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" (Lagopus) mutus.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" " saliceti.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" (Centrocercus) phasianellus.</span><br /> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Grallatores.</span></p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Calidris arenaria.<br /> +Charadrius semipalmata.<br /> +Vanellus<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[203]</a></span> melanogaster.<br /> +Strepsilas interpres.<br /> +Tringa Douglassii.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" maritima.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" alpina.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Schinzii.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" pusilla.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" cinerea.</span><br /> +Totanus flavipes.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" macularius.</span><br /> +Limosa hudsonica.<br /> +Scolopax Wilsoni.<br /> +Phalaropus hyperboreus.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" fulicarius.</span><br /> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Natatores.</span></p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Podiceps cornutus.<br /> +Larus argentatoides.<br /> +Lestris pomarina.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" parasitica.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Richardsoni.</span><br /> +Anas (Boschas) crecca, var.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" " discors.</span><br /> +Somateria spectabilis.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" mollissima.</span><br /> +Oidemia perspicillata.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" americana.</span><br /> +Harelda glacialis.<br /> +Mergus serrator.<br /> +Anser albifrons.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" hyperboreus.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Hutchinsii.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" bernicla.</span><br /> +Colymbus arcticus.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">" septentrionalis.</span><br /> +Myiodioctes<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[204]</a></span> pusilla.<br /> +Regulus calendula.<br /> +Sitta canadensis.<br /> +Linaria borealis.<br /> +Tringa rufescens.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">" pectoralis.</span><br /> +Totanus solitarius.<br /> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<h3>FISHES,</h3> + +<div class="center"> +<i>Collected during Mr. Rae's Expedition. By J. E. Gray, +Esq., F.R.S.</i></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gadidę.</span></p> + +<div class="hang2"><i>Lota Maculosus.</i> Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. +iii. 248. Male and female.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Esocidę.</span></p> + +<div class="hang2"><i>Esox. Lucius.</i> Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. iii. 124. +Female.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Cyprinidę.</span></p> + +<div class="hang2"><i>Catastomus Forsterianus?</i> Richardson, Faun. Bor. +Amer. iii. 116. Female. Lakes near York Factory. +The "Red Sucker."</div> + +<div class="hang2"><i>Catastomus Hudsonius.</i> Richardson, Faun. Bor. +Amer. iii. 112. River near York Factory. "The +Grey Sucker."</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Salmonidę.</span></p> + +<div class="hang2"><i>Salmo. Salar??</i> Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. 145. +Repulse Bay.</div> + +<div class="hang2"><i>Salmo Hoodii.</i> Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. iii. +173, t. 82, f. 2, t. 83, f. 2, t. 87, f. 1. Male and +female. Lakes near York Factory.</div> + +<div class="hang2"><i>Salmo Coregonus Albus.</i> Richardson, Faun. Bor. +Amer. 195. t. 89, f. 2, a. b. Male. The Attihawmeg. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[205]</a></span>Lower jaw shortest; ridge behind the +eye becoming close to the orbit beneath the eye.</div> + +<div class="hang2"><i>Salmo (Coregonus) Tullibee.</i> Richardson, Faun. Bor. +Amer. 201. Lakes near York Factory. "The +Tullibee." Lower jaw shortest, ridge behind +continued distant from the orbit and produced +towards the nostrils.</div> + +<div class="hang2"><i>Salmo Coregonus Harengus?</i> Richardson, Faun. +Bor. Amer. 210. t. 90, f. 2, a. b. Lower jaw +longest, ridge behind the eyes becoming rather +nearer to, but distinct from, the orbit beneath. +River near York Factory.</div> + + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<h3>PLANTS,</h3> + +<div class="center"> +<i>Named by</i> <span class="smcap">Sir W. J. Hooker</span>, K.H., D.C.L., F.R.A. & L.S. +&c. &c. &c.<br /><br /> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<div class="center"> +<i>Plants collected on the Coast between <span class="smcap">York Factory</span> and +<span class="smcap">Churchill</span>, and in the neighbourhood of Churchill.</i> +</div> + + +<h3>DICOTYLEDONES.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Ranunculaceę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">1. Anemone <i>Richardsoni</i>, Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. 6, +Tab. 4, A.</div> + +<div class="hang2">2. Ranunculus <i>Lapponicus</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. +i. p. 16.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Cruciferę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">3. Nasturtium <i>palustre</i>, De Cand.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. i. p. 39.</div> + +<div class="hang2">4. Arabis <i>petręa</i>, Lam.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 42.</div> + +<div class="hang2">5. Cardamine <i>pratensis</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 45.</div> + +<div class="hang2">6. Draba <i>hirta</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 52. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[206]</a></span> +</div> + +<div class="hang2"> +7. Draba <i>alpina</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 50. +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Caryophylleę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">8. Stellaria <i>Edwardsii</i>, Br.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 96, Tab. 31.</div> + +<div class="hang2">9. Cerastium <i>alpinum</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 104.</div> + +<div class="hang2">10. Silene <i>acaulis</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 87.</div> + +<div class="hang2">11. Arenaria <i>peploides</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 102.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Leguminosę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">12. Phaca <i>astragalina</i>, De Cand.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. i. p. 145.</div> + +<div class="hang2">13. Oxytropis <i>campestris</i>, De Cand.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. i. p. 147.</div> + +<div class="hang2">14. Oxytropis <i>deflexa</i>, De Cand.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. i. p. 148.</div> + +<div class="hang2">15. Hedysarum <i>Mackenzii</i>, Rich.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. i. p. 155.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Rosaceę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">16. Dryas <i>integrifolia</i>, Vahl.—Hook. Ex. Fl. Tab. +200, Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 174.</div> + +<div class="hang2">17. Rubus <i>acaulis</i>, Mich.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 182.</div> + +<div class="hang2">18. Potentilla <i>anserina</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 189.</div> + +<div class="hang2">19. Potentilla <i>pulchella</i>, Br.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 191.</div> + +<div class="hang2">20. Potentilla <i>nivea</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 195.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Onagrarieę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">21. Epilobium <i>latifolium</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 205.</div> + +<div class="hang2"><span class="smcap">Saxifrageę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></div> + +<div class="hang2">22. Saxifraga <i>oppositifolia</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. +i. p. 242.</div> + +<div class="hang2">23.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[207]</a></span> Saxifraga <i>cęspitosa</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 244.</div> + +<div class="hang2">24. Saxifraga <i>Hirculus</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 252.</div> + +<div class="hang2">25. Saxifraga <i>tricuspidata</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 254.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Compositę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">26. Nardosmia <i>corymbosa</i>, Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 307 (Tussilago corymbosa, Br.)</div> + +<div class="hang2">27. Achillęa <i>millefolium</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 318.</div> + +<div class="hang2">28. Chrysanthemum <i>arcticum</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. i. p. 319.</div> + +<div class="hang2">29. Pyrethrum <i>inodorum</i>, Sm.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. i. p. 320.</div> + +<div class="hang2">30. Senecio <i>aureus</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 333. +var. nanus.</div> + +<div class="hang2">31. Arnica <i>montana</i>, L.—β. <i>angustifolia</i>, Hook. Fl. +Bor. Am. i. p. 330.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Campanulaceę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">32. Campanula <i>uniflora</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. +p. 29.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Ericeę</span>, <i>L.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">33. Ledum <i>palustre</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 44.—var. +α. <i>angustifolium</i>; and var. β. <i>latifolium</i>.</div> + +<div class="hang2">34. Azalea <i>procumbens</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. +p. 44.</div> + +<div class="hang2">35. Rhododendron <i>Lapponicum</i>, Wahl.—Hook. Fl. +Bor. Am. ii. p. 43.</div> + +<div class="hang2">36. Vaccinium <i>Vitis Idęa</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. ii. p. 34.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Monotropeę</span>, <i>Nutt.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">37. Pyrola <i>rotundifolia</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. +p. 46.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Boragineę</span>, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[208]</a></span> <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">38. Lithospermum <i>maritimum</i>, Lehm.—Hook. Fl. +Bor. Am. ii. p. 86.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Schophularineę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">39. Castilleja <i>pallida</i>, Benth.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. +p. 105.</div> + +<div class="hang2">40. Bartsia <i>alpina</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 106.</div> + +<div class="hang2">41. Pedicularis <i>Wlassoviana</i>, Stev.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. ii. p. 107.</div> + +<div class="hang2">42. Pedicularis <i>Lapponica</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Am. ii. +p. 108.</div> + +<div class="hang2">43. Pedicularis <i>Sudetica</i>, Willd.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. ii. p. 109.</div> + +<div class="hang2">44. Pedicularis <i>flammea</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. +p. 110.</div> + +<div class="hang2">45. Pedicularis <i>euphrasioides</i>, Stev.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. ii. p. 108.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Primulaceę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">46. Androsace <i>septentrionalis</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. ii. p. 119.</div> + +<div class="hang2">47. Primula <i>Hornemanniana</i>, Lehm.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. ii. p. 120.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Polygoneę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">48. Polygonum <i>viviparum</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. +p. 130.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Amentaceę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">49. Salix <i>Richardsoni</i>, Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 147, +Tab. 182.</div> + +<div class="hang2">50. Salix <i>vestita</i>, Ph.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 152.</div> + +<div class="hang2">51. Salix <i>Arctica</i>, Br.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 152.</div> + +<div class="hang2">52. Betula <i>glandulosa</i>, Mx.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. +p. 156.</div> + +<div class="hang2">53. Betula <i>nana</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 156.</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[209]</a></span></p> + +<h3>MONOCOTYLEDONES.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Melanthaceę</span>, <i>Br.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">54. Tofieldia <i>palustris</i>, Huds.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. +p. 179.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Orchideę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">55. Platanthera <i>obtusata</i>, Lindl.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. ii. p. 196, Tab. 199.</div> + +<div class="hang2">56. Platanthera <i>rotundifolia</i>, Lindl.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. ii. p. 200, Tab. 201.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Cyperaceę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">57. Carex <i>dioica</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 208.</div> + +<div class="hang2">58. Carex <i>fuliginosa</i>, Sternb. and Hoppe.—Hook. +Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 224.</div> + +<div class="hang2">59. Eriophorum <i>capitatum</i>, Host.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. ii. p. 231.</div> + +<div class="hang2">60. Eriophorum <i>polystachyon</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. ii. p. 231.</div> + + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<div class="center"> +<i>Collected between <span class="smcap">Churchill</span> and <span class="smcap">Repulse Bay</span>.</i> +</div> + +<h3>DICOTYLEDONES.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Ranunculaceę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">1. Ranunculus <i>affinis</i>, Br.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. +i. p. 12, Tab. 6 A.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Papaveraceę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">2. Papaver <i>nudicaule</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 34.</div> + +<div class="hang2">3. Arabis <i>petręa</i>, Lam.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 42.</div> + +<div class="hang2">4. Cardamine <i>pratensis</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 45.</div> + +<div class="hang2">5. Draba <i>alpina</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 50.</div> + +<div class="hang2">6. Eutrema<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[210]</a></span> <i>Edwardsii</i>, Br.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 67.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Caryophylleę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">7. Silene <i>acaulis</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 89.</div> + +<div class="hang2">8. Lychnis <i>apetala</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 94.</div> + +<div class="hang2">9. Stellaria <i>Edwardsii</i>, Br.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 96. Tab. 31.</div> + +<div class="hang2">10. Cerastium <i>alpinum</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 104.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Leguminosę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">11. Oxytropis <i>campestris</i>, De Cand.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. i. p. 146.</div> + +<div class="hang2">12. Oxytropis <i>Uralensis</i>, De Cand.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. i. p. 145.</div> + +<div class="hang2">13. Phaca <i>astragalina</i>, De Cand.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. i. p. 145.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Rosaceę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">14. Dryas <i>integrifolia</i>, Vahl.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 174.</div> + +<div class="hang2">15. Rubus <i>Chamęmorus</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 183.</div> + +<div class="hang2">16. Potentilla <i>nana</i>, Lehm.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 194.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Onagrarieę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">17. Epilobium <i>latifolium</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 205.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Saxifrageę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">18. Saxifraga <i>oppositifolia</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 242.</div> + +<div class="hang2">19. Saxifraga <i>cęspitosa</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 246.</div> + +<div class="hang2">20. Saxifraga <i>cernua</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 246.</div> + +<div class="hang2">21. Saxifraga <i>rivularis</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 246.</div> + +<div class="hang2">22.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[211]</a></span> Saxifraga <i>Hirculus</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 252. and var. <i>bi-triflora</i>.</div> + +<div class="hang2">23. Saxifraga <i>tricuspidata</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 253.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Compositę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">24. Leontodon <i>Taraxacum</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 296.</div> + +<div class="hang2">25. Chrysanthemum <i>integrifolium</i>, Rich.—Hook. Fl. +Bor. Am. i. p. 319, Tab. 109.</div> + +<div class="hang2">26. Erigeron <i>uniflorus</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 17.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Campanulaceę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">27. Campanula <i>uniflora</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. +p. 29.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Ericeę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">28. Andromeda <i>tetragona</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. +p. 38.</div> + +<div class="hang2">29. Ledum <i>palustre</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 44. +var. <i>angustifolium</i>.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Diapensiaceę</span>, <i>Lindl.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">30. Diapensia <i>Lapponica</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. +p. 76.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Boragineę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">31. Lithospermum <i>maritimum</i>, Lehm.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. ii. p. 36.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Scrophularineę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">32. Pedicularis <i>hirsuta</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. +p. 109.</div> + +<div class="hang2">33. Pedicularis <i>Langsdorffii</i>, Fisch.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. ii. p. 109.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Plumbagineę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">34. Statice <i>Armeria</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 123.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Amentaceę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">35. Salix <i>Myrsinites</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 151.</div> + +<div class="hang2">36. Salix <i>Arctica</i>, Br.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 152.</div> + + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[212]</a></span></p> +<h3>MONOCOTYLEDONES.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Junceę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">37. Luzula <i>hyperborea</i>, Br.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. +p. 188.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Cyperaceę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">38. Carex <i>membranacea</i>,—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. +p. 220.</div> + +<div class="hang2">39. Eriophorum <i>polystachyon</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. ii. p. 231.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gramineę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">40. Alopecurus <i>alpinus</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. +p. 234.</div> + +<div class="hang2">41. Hierochloe <i>alpina</i>, Rœm. et Sch.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. ii. p. 234.</div> + +<div class="hang2">42. Colpodium <i>latifolium</i>, Br.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. ii. p. 238.</div> + +<div class="hang2">43. Poa <i>Arctica</i>, Br.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 246.</div> + +<div class="hang2">44. Festuca <i>brevifolia</i>, Br.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. +p. 250.</div> + +<div class="hang2">45. Elymus <i>arenarius</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. +p. 255.</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<div class="center"> +<i>Plants collected between <span class="smcap">Repulse Bay</span> and <span class="smcap">Cape +Lady Pelly</span>.</i> +</div> + + +<h3>DICOTYLEDONES.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Ranunculaceę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">1. Ranunculus <i>Lapponicus</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. +i. p. 16.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Papaveraceę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">2. Papaver <i>nudicaule</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 34.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Cruciferę</span>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[213]</a></span> <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">3. Cardamine <i>pratensis</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 44.</div> + +<div class="hang2">4. Draba <i>alpina</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 50.</div> + +<div class="hang2">5. Draba <i>stellata</i>, Jacq.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 53.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Caryophylleę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">6. Stellaria <i>humifusa</i>, Rottb.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 97.</div> + +<div class="hang2">7. Cerastium <i>alpinum</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 104.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Leguminosę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">8. Oxytropis <i>Uralensis</i>, De Cand.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. i. p. 145.</div> + +<div class="hang2">9. Oxytropis <i>campestris</i>, De Cand.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. i. p. 147.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Rosaceę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">10. Dryas <i>integrifolia</i>, Vahl.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 174.</div> + +<div class="hang2">11. Potentilla <i>nana</i>, Lehm.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 190.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Onagrarieę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">12. Epilobium <i>latifolium</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 204.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Saxifrageę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">13. Saxifraga <i>oppositifolia</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 242.</div> + +<div class="hang2">14. Saxifraga <i>cernua</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 245.</div> + +<div class="hang2">15. Saxifraga <i>rivularis</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 246.</div> + +<div class="hang2">16. Saxifraga <i>nivalis</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 248.</div> + +<div class="hang2">17. Saxifraga <i>foliolosa</i>, Br.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 251.</div> + +<div class="hang2">18. Saxifraga<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[214]</a></span> <i>Hirculus</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 252.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Compositę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">19. Leontodon <i>Taraxacum</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. i. p. 296.</div> + +<div class="hang2">20. Pyrethrum <i>inodorum</i>, Sm.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. +p. 320.</div> + +<div class="hang2">21. Arnica <i>montana</i>, L.—β. <i>angustifolia</i>, Hook. Fl. +Bor. Am. i. p. 330.</div> + +<div class="hang2">22. Erigeron <i>uniflorus</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. +p. 17.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Ericeę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">23. Andromeda <i>tetragona</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. +p. 38.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Monotropeę</span>, <i>Nutt.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">24. Pyrola <i>rotundifolia</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. +p. 46.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Scrophularineę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">25. Pedicularis <i>hirsuta</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. +p. 109.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Amentaceę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">26. Salix <i>Arctica</i>, Br.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 152.</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<h3>MONOCOTYLEDONES.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Junceę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">27. Luzula <i>hyperborea</i>, Br.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. +p. 188.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Cyperaceę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">28. Carex <i>dioica</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 208.</div> + +<div class="hang2">29. Carex <i>membranacea</i>, Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. +p. 220.</div> + +<div class="hang2">30. Carex <i>cęspitosa</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. +p. 217.</div> + +<div class="hang2">31. Carex<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[215]</a></span> <i>ustulata</i>, Wahl.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. +p. 224.</div> + +<div class="hang2">32. Eriophorum <i>capitatum</i>, Host.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. ii. p. 231.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gramineę</span>, <i>Juss.</i></p> + +<div class="hang2">33. Hierochloe <i>alpina</i>, Rœm. and Sch.—Hook. Fl. +Bor. Am. ii. p. 234.</div> + +<div class="hang2">34. Colpodium <i>latifolium</i>, Br.—Hook. Fl. Bor. +Am. ii. p. 238.</div> + +<div class="hang2">35. Dupontia <i>Fischeri</i>, Br.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. +p. 242.</div> + +<div class="hang2">36. Poa <i>Arctica</i>, Br.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 246.</div> + +<div class="hang2">37. Poa <i>angustata</i>, Br.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. +p. 246.</div> + +<div class="hang2">38. Poa <i>alpina</i>, L.—Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 246.</div> + + + + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<h3>SPECIMENS OF ROCKS,</h3> + +<div class="center"> +<i>Described by <span class="smcap">James Tennant, Esq.</span>, Professor of +Mineralogy in King's College, London.</i></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Cape Lady Pelly</span>, 67° 30' N. 88° W.</p> + +<div class="hang2">Gneiss.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Near Point Hargrave</span>, 67° 25' N. 87° 35' W.</p> + +<div class="hang2">Gneiss.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Cape T. Simpson</span>, 67° 22' N. 87° W.</p> + +<div class="hang2">Gneiss with chlorite.</div> + +<div class="hang2">Mica-slate.</div> + +<div class="hang2">Mica-slate, with indistinct crystals of precious Garnets.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Isthmus</span> connecting Ross's Peninsula with the Continent.</p> + +<div class="hang2">Felspar.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Simpson's Peninsula</span>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[216]</a></span> 68° 1/3' N. 88° 20' W.</p> + +<div class="hang2">Compact argillaceous Limestone.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">A Hill</span> on the western shore of Halkett's Inlet, 69° 14' N. +90° 50' W.</p> + +<div class="hang2">Cellular Quartz, coloured by oxide of Iron.</div> + +<div class="hang2">Mica-slate full of Garnets.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Helen Island</span>, one of the Harrison Group in Pelly Bay, +68° 54' N. 89° 52' W.</p> + +<div class="hang2">Felspar—red colour.</div> + +<div class="hang2">Gneiss; the Felspar, Mica, and Quartz distinctly +stratified.</div> + +<div class="hang2">Gneiss; the Felspar red and greatly predominating.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Beacon Hill</span>, near Fort Hope, 66° 32' N. 86° 56' W.</p> + +<div class="hang2">Granite.</div> + +<div class="hang2">Ditto, with a small quantity of Mica; the Felspar +red, and constituting four-fifths of the mass.</div> + +<div class="hang2">Gneiss, with veins of red Felspar running diagonally +to the stratification.</div> + +<div class="hang2">Mica-slate.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">North Pole River.</span></p> + +<div class="hang2">Mica-slate.</div> + +<div class="hang2">Ditto, with veins of Quartz.</div> + +<div class="hang2">Gneiss.</div> + +<div class="hang2">Ditto, the Felspar red and greatly predominating.</div> + +<div class="hang2">Ditto, the Felspar very friable.</div> + +<div class="hang2">Quartz rock with Felspar.</div> + +<div class="hang2">Argillaceous Limestone, compact.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">North Pole Lake</span>, 66° 40' N. 87° 2' W.</p> + +<div class="hang2">Gneiss.</div> + +<div class="hang2">Mica-slate.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Repulse Bay</span>, 66° 32' N. 86° 56' W.</p> + +<div class="hang2">Quartz, coloured by oxide of Iron, and containing +minute particles of Gold.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Melville Peninsula</span>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[217]</a></span> 68° 27' N. 85° 24' W.</p> + +<div class="hang2">Hornblende-slate.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Munro Inlet.</span></p> + +<div class="hang2">Granite, the Felspar greatly predominating.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Island</span> near the north point of Rankin's Inlet.</p> + +<div class="hang2">Quartz, enclosing chlorite and Copper Pyrites.</div> + +<div class="hang2">Talcose-slate.</div> + +<div class="hang2">Carbonate and silicate of Copper, with Copper Pyrites +on argillaceous slate.</div> + +<div class="hang2">Ditto, with a thin coating of green carbonate of +Copper.</div> + +<div class="hang2">Mica-slate.</div> + +<div class="hang2">Chlorite-slate, friable.</div> + +<div class="hang2">Ditto, with very thin veins of Calcareous Spar running +diagonally in stratification.</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Island</span> near the south point of Rankin's Inlet.</p> + +<div class="hang2">Quartz and Iron Pyrites; the latter crystallized in +cubes, the faces of which are not above one-sixteenth +of an inch.</div> + +<div class="hang2">Quartz, with Iron Pyrites, and superficially coloured +by oxide of Iron.</div> + +<div class="hang2">Hornblende-slate.</div> + +<div class="hang2">Mica-slate.</div> + +<div class="hang2">Chlorite-slate.</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[218]</a></span></p> + +<div class="center"> +<i>Dip of the needle and force of magnetic attraction at various +stations along the west shore of Hudson's Bay,<br /> +and at Fort Hope, Repulse Bay.</i><br /><br /> +</div> + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td class="center">Name of</td><td class="center">Latitude</td><td class="center">Longitude</td><td class="center">Date.</td><td class="center">Times.</td><td class="center">Dip</td><td class="center">Time of 10</td><td class="center">Therm.</td><td class="center">Variation of</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">Station</td><td class="center">W.</td><td class="center">N.</td><td class="center"></td><td class="center"></td><td class="center">Mean.</td><td class="center">Vibrations.</td><td class="center"></td><td class="center">Compass.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"> </td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"></td><td align="center">deg. mi. sec.</td><td align="center">deg. mi. sec.</td><td align="center"></td><td align="center">h. mi.</td><td align="center">deg. mi. sec.</td><td align="center"><i>Needle No. 2</i></td><td align="center">deg. mi.</td><td align="right">deg. mi. sec.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center" colspan="6"></td><td align="center"><i>deflected, 20</i></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center" colspan="6"></td><td align="center"><i>deg. from dip.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">York Factory</td><td align="right"> 57 0 2</td><td align="right"> 92 26 0</td><td align="right"> 5 Nov. 1845 </td><td align="right"> 9 0 AM</td><td align="right"> 83 47 0</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">+31 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="right">57 0 0</td><td align="right">92 26 0</td><td align="right"> 8 " </td><td align="right"> 9 0 " </td><td align="right">83 43 0</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">+25 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 12 " </td><td align="right"> 2 30 PM</td><td align="right">83 37 0</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">+25 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 15 " </td><td align="right"> 9 0 AM</td><td align="right">83 41 0</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">+33 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="right">57 0 0</td><td align="right">92 26 0</td><td align="right"> 19 " </td><td align="right"> 9 0 " </td><td align="right">83 42 5</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">+25 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 22 " </td><td align="right"> 9 30 " </td><td align="right">83 43 4</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">+ 3 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 26 " </td><td align="right"> 9 30 " </td><td align="right">83 48 7</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">- 4 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 29 " </td><td align="right"> 9 30 " </td><td align="right">83 42 5</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">-13 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 3 Dec. " </td><td align="right"> 9 30 " </td><td align="right">83 54 2</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">- 6 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 6 " </td><td align="right"> 9 30 " </td><td align="right">83 43 2</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">+ 8 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 10 " </td><td align="right"> 9 30 " </td><td align="right">83 43 5</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">-19 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 13 " </td><td align="right"> 9 30 " </td><td align="right">83 48 2</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> 0 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">York Factory</td><td align="right">57 0 0</td><td align="right">92 26 0</td><td align="right"> 17 Dec. 1845 </td><td align="right"> 9 35 AM</td><td align="right">83 40 9</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">-11 0</td><td align="right"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[219]</a></span></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 20 " </td><td align="right"> 9 30 " </td><td align="right">83 39 1</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">-16 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 24 " </td><td align="right">10 10 " </td><td align="right">83 45 5</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">-23 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 31 " </td><td align="right">10 30 " </td><td align="right">83 46 0</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">+ 7 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 3 Jan. 1846 </td><td align="right">10 30 " </td><td align="right">83 46 1</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">+20 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 7 " </td><td align="right">10 30 " </td><td align="right">83 47 0</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">+ 5 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 10 " </td><td align="right">10 30 " </td><td align="right">83 45 5</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">+ 7 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 14 " </td><td align="right">10 30 " </td><td align="right">83 43 9</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">- 2 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 21 " </td><td align="right">10 30 " </td><td align="right">83 44 8</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">-10 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 24 " </td><td align="right">10 30 " </td><td align="right">83 41 7</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">+23 5</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 28 " </td><td align="right">10 30 " </td><td align="right">83 45 8</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">+15 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 31 " {</td><td align="right">10 0 AM</td><td align="right">83 45 8</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">-15 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 0 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">- 3 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 4 Feb. " {</td><td align="right">10 0 AM</td><td align="right">83 50 5</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">-12 5</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 0 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">-14 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 7 " </td><td align="right">10 0 AM</td><td align="right">83 45 5</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">-11 5</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">York Factory</td><td align="right">57 0 0</td><td align="right">92 26 0</td><td align="right"> 11 Feb. 1846 {</td><td align="right">10 0 AM</td><td align="right">83 44 8</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">- 5 0</td><td align="right"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[220]</a></span></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 30 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">-11 3</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 14 " {</td><td align="right"> 9 30 AM</td><td align="right">83 41 6</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">-23 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 20 PM</td><td align="right">83 38 1</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">- 8 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 18 " {</td><td align="right"> 9 30 AM</td><td align="right">83 36 6</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+ 6 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 30 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">- 3 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 21 " {</td><td align="right"> 9 30 AM</td><td align="right">83 41 0</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">-11 5</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 30 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+ 6 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 25 " {</td><td align="right"> 9 30 AM</td><td align="right">83 40 9</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">-23 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 30 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">-10 5</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 28 " {</td><td align="right"> 9 30 AM</td><td align="right">83 39 7</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">-13 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 30 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+ 4 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 4 Mar. " {</td><td align="right"> 9 30 AM</td><td align="right">83 44 1</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+ 6 5</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 30 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+ 4 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 7 " {</td><td align="right"> 9 30 AM</td><td align="right">83 42 5</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+29 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 40 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+37 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 11 " {</td><td align="right"> 9 30 AM</td><td align="right">83 44 6</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+26 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 30 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+25 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 14 " {</td><td align="right"> 9 30 AM</td><td align="right">83 40 9</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+12 5</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 30 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+22 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 18 " {</td><td align="right"> 9 30 AM</td><td align="right">83 39 6</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+15 5</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 40 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+21 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 21 " {</td><td align="right"> 9 30 AM</td><td align="right">83 37 7</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">- 2 5</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 30 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+ 5 8</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 25 " {</td><td align="right"> 9 40 AM</td><td align="right">83 47 0</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+30 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 30 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+30 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 28 " {</td><td align="right"> 9 35 AM</td><td align="right">83 43 8</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+ 8 5</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 30 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+ 8 0</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">York Factory</td><td align="right">57 0 0</td><td align="right">92 26 0</td><td align="right"> 1 April 1846 {</td><td align="right"> 9 30 AM</td><td align="right">83 42 8</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+ 8 0</td><td align="right"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[221]</a></span></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 30 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+15 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 4 " {</td><td align="right"> 9 30 AM</td><td align="right">83 45 2</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+35 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 30 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+25 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 11 " {</td><td align="right"> 9 40 AM</td><td align="right">83 40 6</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+41 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 30 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+42 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 15 " {</td><td align="right"> 9 35 AM</td><td align="right">83 35 7</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">- 3 5</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 30 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">- 6 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 18 " {</td><td align="right"> 9 30 AM</td><td align="right">83 40 2</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+ 9 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 30 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+29 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 22 " {</td><td align="right"> 0 30 AM</td><td align="right">83 38 9</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+45 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 35 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+40 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 25 " {</td><td align="right"> 0 0 AM</td><td align="right">83 35 5</td><td align="center"> Ther. {</td><td align="right">+43 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="center"> +40° 0' {</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 30 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="center"> 21s.—34 {</td><td align="right">+32 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 29 " {</td><td align="right"> 9 45 AM</td><td align="right">83 38 0</td><td align="center"> Ther. {</td><td align="right">+42 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="center"> +46° 0' {</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 30 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="center"> 21s.—23 {</td><td align="right">+43 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 2 May " {</td><td align="right"> 9 30 AM</td><td align="right">83 38 5</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+39 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 30 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+47 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 6 " {</td><td align="right"> 9 30 AM</td><td align="right">83 37 9</td><td align="center"> Ther. {</td><td align="right">+51 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="center"> +66° 0' {</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 30 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="center"> 21s.—31 {</td><td align="right">+67 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 16 " {</td><td align="right"> 9 35 AM</td><td align="right">83 39 0</td><td align="center"> Ther. {</td><td align="right">+36 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="center"> +43° 0' {</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 35 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="center"> 21s.—13 {</td><td align="right">+44 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">Creek </td><td align="right">58 2 0</td><td align="right">92 20 </td><td align="right"> 20 June " </td><td align="right"> 3 45 PM</td><td align="center">84 46 4</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">+49 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">Churchill </td><td align="right">58 43 50</td><td align="right">94 14 </td><td align="right"> 29 " {</td><td align="right"> 9 47 AM</td><td align="right">84 50 8</td><td align="center"> Ther. {</td><td align="right">+60 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="center"> +61° 0' {</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 35 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="center"> 21s.—14 {</td><td align="right">+61 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 1 July " {</td><td align="right">10 30 AM</td><td align="right">84 43 9</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+88 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 0 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+60 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">Churchill </td><td align="right">58 43 50</td><td align="right">94 14 0</td><td align="right"> 4 July 1846 </td><td align="right"> 8 10 PM</td><td align="right">84 44 5</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">+41 0</td><td align="right"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[222]</a></span></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">Knapp's Bay </td><td align="right">61 9 42</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 8 " </td><td align="right">10 45 AM</td><td align="right">86 18 3</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+52 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+51 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 8 " </td><td align="right"> 3 0 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 12 " </td><td align="right"> 5 15 PM</td><td align="right">87 16 3</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+58 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+52 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="right">64 6 0</td><td align="right">88 0 0</td><td align="right"> 18 " </td><td align="right"> Noon. </td><td align="right">86 36 5</td><td align="center"> Ther. {</td><td align="right">+54 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="center"> +54° 0' </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="center"> 20s.—84 </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">Near Wager </td><td align="right">65 10 0</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 21 " </td><td align="right"> 4 5 PM</td><td align="right">87 10 6</td><td align="center"> Ther. </td><td align="right">+52 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">River </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="center"> +65° 0' </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="center"> 21s.—03 </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="right">65 15 36</td><td align="right">87 10 0</td><td align="right"> 22 " </td><td align="right">11 35 AM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">+52 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">Repulse Bay </td><td align="right">66 32 0</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 27 " </td><td align="right">11 15 AM</td><td align="right">88 16 7</td><td align="center"> Ther. {</td><td align="right">+55 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="center"> +57° 0' {</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="center"> 21s.—7 {</td><td align="right">+57 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">Flett's </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 28 " {</td><td align="right"> 2 40 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+90 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">Portage </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 15 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+82 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">Descent </td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 31 " {</td><td align="right"> 6 20 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">+53 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">Portage </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 6 50 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">Cape Lady </td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 3 Aug. " </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">Pelly </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">3 Miles N.W.</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> " </td><td align="right"> 5 30 PM</td><td align="right">88 27 1</td><td align="center"> Ther. </td><td align="right">+52 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">of do. </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="center"> +52° 0' </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="center"> 21s.—8 </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">Fort Hope </td><td align="right">66 32 0</td><td align="right">86 56 0</td><td align="right"> 18 Nov. " {</td><td align="right">11 15 AM</td><td align="right">87 51 5</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">-6 0</td><td align="center">West</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 2 0 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">-5 0</td><td align="center"> 62 50 30</td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 21 " {</td><td align="right"> 9 45 AM</td><td align="right">88 11 4</td><td align="center"> Ther. {</td><td align="right">+6 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="center"> +10° 5' {</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 2 15 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="center"> 22s.—66 {</td><td align="right">+10 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">Fort Hope </td><td align="right">66 32 0</td><td align="right">86 56 0</td><td align="right"> 25 Nov. 1846 </td><td align="right"> 2 10 PM</td><td align="right">88 8 9</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">-21 0</td><td align="right"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[223]</a></span></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">-15 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 5 Dec. " {</td><td align="right">10 0 AM</td><td align="right">88 13 9</td><td align="center"> Ther. {</td><td align="right">-13 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="center"> +9° 0' {</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 2 0 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="center"> 22s.—6 {</td><td align="right">-16 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 12 " {</td><td align="right">10 10 AM</td><td align="right">88 13 3</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+ 6 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 2 5 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+ 8 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 16 " {</td><td align="right">10 0 AM</td><td align="right">88 12 7</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 0 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 2 20 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">+ 2 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 23 " {</td><td align="right">10 0 AM</td><td align="right">88 16 3</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">- 7 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 2 0 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">- 8 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 2 Jan. 1847 {</td><td align="right">10 10 AM</td><td align="right">88 17 5</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">-23 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 2 30 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">-21 5</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 10 Feb. " {</td><td align="right"> 9 50 AM</td><td align="right">88 10 9</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">-22 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 2 10 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">-20 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 13 " {</td><td align="right"> 9 50 AM</td><td align="right">88 13 5</td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">-28 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 2 10 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">-26 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 17 " {</td><td align="right"> 9 50 AM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">-36 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 2 15 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">-33 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right"> 24 " {</td><td align="right"> 9 55 AM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">-22 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 2 10 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right">-22 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center">York Factory</td><td align="right">57 0 0</td><td align="right">92 26 0</td><td align="right"> 18 Sept. " {</td><td align="right"> 9 15 AM</td><td align="right">83 47 0</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">+52 0</td><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td class="center"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> {</td><td align="right"> 3 10 PM</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right"></td></tr> +</table> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[224]</a></span></p> + +<div class="center"> +Fort Hope, Repulse Bay.—<i>Abstract of Meteorological Journal for September, 1846.</i> +<br /><br /> +</div> + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="left">Day</td><td align="left" colspan="3">Temperature of the Atmosphere</td><td align="center"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">of the</td><td align="left" colspan="3">taken eight times in twenty-</td><td align="center">Prevailing Winds.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Month. </td><td align="left" colspan="3">four hours.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="center"><i>Highest.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Lowest.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Mean.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Direction.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Force.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left"><i>deg.m.</i></td><td align="left"><i>deg.m.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">1 </td><td align="left">+35</td><td align="left">+27</td><td align="left">+29.7</td><td align="left">E.S.E</td><td align="center">2-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2 </td><td align="left">+37</td><td align="left">+27</td><td align="left">+31</td><td align="left">E.S.E.</td><td align="center">5-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3 </td><td align="left">+36</td><td align="left">+25</td><td align="left">+31</td><td align="left">E.—Vble.</td><td align="center">9-1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4 </td><td align="left">+34</td><td align="left">+28</td><td align="left">+30.3</td><td align="left">E. by S.</td><td align="center">8</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5 </td><td align="left">+42</td><td align="left">+26</td><td align="left">+32.7</td><td align="left">O.—N.N.W.</td><td align="center">0-7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6 </td><td align="left" colspan="3"></td><td align="left">N.</td><td align="center">6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7 </td><td align="left">+31</td><td align="left">+25</td><td align="left">+27</td><td align="left">N.</td><td align="center">6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8 </td><td align="left">+35</td><td align="left">+26</td><td align="left">+30.5</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td><td align="center">6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">9 </td><td align="left" colspan="3"></td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td><td align="center">6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">10 </td><td align="left">+32</td><td align="left">+30</td><td align="left">+31.3</td><td align="left">N.N.W.—O.—S.E.</td><td align="center">4-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">11 </td><td align="left">+34</td><td align="left">+31</td><td align="left">+32.5</td><td align="left">E. by S.</td><td align="center">10-8</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">12 </td><td align="left" colspan="3"></td><td align="left">E. by S.—S. E. by E.</td><td align="center">9-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">13 </td><td align="left" colspan="3"></td><td align="left">S.W. by S.—S.W.</td><td align="center">5-9</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">14 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">15 </td><td align="left">+45</td><td align="left">+45</td><td align="left">+45</td><td align="left">S.S.</td><td align="center">4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">16 </td><td align="left">+34</td><td align="left">+25</td><td align="left">+28.7</td><td align="left">Vble.—O.—E. by N.</td><td align="center">1-2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">17 </td><td align="left">+32</td><td align="left">+24</td><td align="left">+28</td><td align="left">W.</td><td align="center">2-3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">18 </td><td align="left">+29</td><td align="left">+26</td><td align="left">+27.7</td><td align="left">N.W.—W.N.W.</td><td align="center">6-7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">19 </td><td align="left">+33</td><td align="left">+26</td><td align="left">+29.7</td><td align="left">W.N.W.—O.—E.</td><td align="center">9-0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">20 </td><td align="left">+32</td><td align="left">+24</td><td align="left">+28</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td><td align="center">5-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">21 </td><td align="left">+36</td><td align="left">+24</td><td align="left">+29.3</td><td align="left">N.—O.—E.</td><td align="center">0-3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">22 </td><td align="left">+31</td><td align="left">+23</td><td align="left">+27.7</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td><td align="center">5-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">23 </td><td align="left">+28</td><td align="left">+16</td><td align="left">+22.3</td><td align="left">W.N.W.</td><td align="center">3-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">24 </td><td align="left">+42</td><td align="left">+21</td><td align="left">+29.3</td><td align="left">Vble.</td><td align="center">1-0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">25 </td><td align="left">+30</td><td align="left">+16</td><td align="left">+24.3</td><td align="left">Vble.</td><td align="center">0-2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">26 </td><td align="left">+30</td><td align="left">+26</td><td align="left">+28</td><td align="left">E.N.E.</td><td align="center">8-9</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">27 </td><td align="left">+26</td><td align="left">+24</td><td align="left">+25</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td><td align="center">5-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">28 </td><td align="left">+26</td><td align="left">+20</td><td align="left">+22.7</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td><td align="center">7-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">29 </td><td align="left">+24</td><td align="left">+22</td><td align="left">+23</td><td align="left">W.N.W.</td><td align="center">4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">30 </td><td align="left">+22</td><td align="left">+18</td><td align="left">+19.7</td><td align="left">Vble.—S.E. by E.</td><td align="center">1-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="3"></td><td align="left">———</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="3"></td><td align="left">714.4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="3"></td><td align="left">———</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="3"></td><td align="left">+28.57</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p><br /><br /></p> + +<div class="center"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[225]</a></span> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="right">Day of</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Barometer and</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">the Mon.</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Thermometer attached.</td><td align="center">Remarks on the Weather, &c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="center"><i>Barom.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Thermo.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">1</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">c. c. o. Solar halo with parhelia.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">c. c. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">s. b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">c. c. c. p. of sleet.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">c. c. o. Full moon.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">p. s. o.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">p. s. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">c. p. s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">9</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">c. p. s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">10</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">c. b. c. o.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">11</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">s. c. s. c. b. much drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">12</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">o. c. c. [quarter moon symbol] last quarter.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">13</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">14</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">15</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">c. p. s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">16</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">c. c. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">17</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">18</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">o. s. s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">19</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">s. s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">20</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">s. o.</td><td align="center">c. s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">21</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">c. c. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">22</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">s. s. b. Aurora visible to the southward at 8 P.M.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">23</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">b. b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">24</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">o. b. c. o.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">25</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">c. o.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">26</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">s. s. s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">27</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">s. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">28</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">p. so. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">29</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">30</td><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">h. b. s.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[226]</a></span></p> + +<div class="center"> +Fort Hope, Repulse Bay.—<i>Abstract of Meteorological Journal for October, 1846.</i> +<br /><br /> +</div> + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="left">Day</td><td align="left" colspan="3">Temperature of the Atmosphere</td><td align="center"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">of the</td><td align="left" colspan="3">taken eight times in twenty-</td><td align="center">Prevailing Winds.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Month. </td><td align="left" colspan="3">four hours.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="center"><i>Highest.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Lowest.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Mean.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Direction.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Force.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left"><i>deg.m.</i></td><td align="left"><i>deg.m.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">1 </td><td align="left">+27</td><td align="left">+25</td><td align="left">+26</td><td align="left">Vble. S.W.—N.W.</td><td align="center">1-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2 </td><td align="left">+25</td><td align="left">+16</td><td align="left">+21</td><td align="left">N.W.</td><td align="center">8</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3 </td><td align="left">+24</td><td align="left">+10</td><td align="left">+18</td><td align="left">Vble. E. by S.</td><td align="center">1-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4 </td><td align="left">+38</td><td align="left">+38</td><td align="left">+38</td><td align="left">S.E. by E.</td><td align="center">4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5 </td><td align="left">+37</td><td align="left">+30</td><td align="left">+33</td><td align="left">E.</td><td align="center">2-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6 </td><td align="left">+33</td><td align="left">+28</td><td align="left">+30.3</td><td align="left">N.E.</td><td align="center">3-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7 </td><td align="left">+30</td><td align="left">+28</td><td align="left">+29</td><td align="left">N.E.</td><td align="center">4-3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8 </td><td align="left">+28</td><td align="left">+25</td><td align="left">+26.3</td><td align="left">N.—N.N.W.</td><td align="center">4-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">9 </td><td align="left">+22</td><td align="left">+21</td><td align="left">+21.5</td><td align="left">N.W.--O.—Vble.</td><td align="center">3-0-2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">10 </td><td align="left">+27</td><td align="left">+26</td><td align="left">+26.5</td><td align="left">E.</td><td align="center">8-9</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">11 </td><td align="left">+32</td><td align="left">+28</td><td align="left">+30</td><td align="left">N.E.—O.</td><td align="center">1-0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">12 </td><td align="left">+27</td><td align="left">+25</td><td align="left">+25</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td><td align="center">7-9</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">13 </td><td align="left">+29</td><td align="left">+27</td><td align="left">+28.1</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td><td align="center">8-9</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">14 </td><td align="left">+26</td><td align="left">+18</td><td align="left">+23.2</td><td align="left">N.</td><td align="center">10-11</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">15 </td><td align="left">+12</td><td align="left">+10</td><td align="left">+11</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td><td align="center">10-11</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">16 </td><td align="left">+ 5</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">+ 2.6</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td><td align="center">7-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">17 </td><td align="left">+ 3.5</td><td align="left">- 1</td><td align="left">+ 0.8</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td><td align="center">7-8</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">18 </td><td align="left">+ 6</td><td align="left">- 0.8</td><td align="left">+ 1.7</td><td align="left">S.W.W.—W.N.W.</td><td align="center">4-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">19 </td><td align="left">+ 2</td><td align="left">- 4.8</td><td align="left">- 0.7</td><td align="left">N.—N.N.W.</td><td align="center">5-9</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">20 </td><td align="left">+ 3</td><td align="left">- 2.5</td><td align="left">- 0.3</td><td align="left">N.W.</td><td align="center">10-11</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">21 </td><td align="left">- 2.8</td><td align="left">-10</td><td align="left">- 6</td><td align="left">N.W.—N.W. by N.</td><td align="center">7-11</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">22 </td><td align="left">- 4.5</td><td align="left">-15</td><td align="left">- 8.1</td><td align="left">N.W. Vble. S.W.</td><td align="center">0-2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">23 </td><td align="left">+ 5.3</td><td align="left">- 0.5</td><td align="left">+ 3</td><td align="left">N.W. by W.—N.W. by N.</td><td align="center">3-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">24 </td><td align="left">- 0.</td><td align="left">- 6.4</td><td align="left">- 4.2</td><td align="left">N.W. by W.—N.W.</td><td align="center">4-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">25 </td><td align="left">+ 4.5</td><td align="left">- 6.2</td><td align="left">- 1.8</td><td align="left">N.W. by N.</td><td align="center">5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">26 </td><td align="left">- 7.3</td><td align="left">-10.2</td><td align="left">- 8.5</td><td align="left">N.W.—N.W. by N.</td><td align="center">4-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">27 </td><td align="left">- 6.</td><td align="left">-15</td><td align="left">-10.6</td><td align="left">N.W. by N.—N.W.</td><td align="center">0-3-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">28 </td><td align="left">- 1.8</td><td align="left">-11.8</td><td align="left">- 6.4</td><td align="left">N.W. & N.N.W.</td><td align="center">0-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">29 </td><td align="left">+10</td><td align="left">+ 3.1</td><td align="left">+ 8.4</td><td align="left">S.S.E. S.—calm.</td><td align="center">0-2-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">30 </td><td align="left">+25.3</td><td align="left">+21</td><td align="left">+23.4</td><td align="left">S.S.E.—S.W.—W. by N.</td><td align="center">2-8</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">31 </td><td align="left">+10</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">+ 5.2</td><td align="left">S. N.W. W.S.W. N.N.W.</td><td align="center">1-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="3"></td><td align="left">———</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="3"></td><td align="left">389.4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="3"></td><td align="left">———</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="3"></td><td align="left">+12.56</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p><br /><br /></p> + +<div class="center"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[227]</a></span> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="right">Day of</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Barometer and</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">the Mon.</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Thermometer attached.</td><td align="center">Remarks on the Weather, &c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="center"><i>Barom.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Thermo.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">1 </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">s. ps.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2 </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">b. c. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3 </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">h. p. s. o. s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4 </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">h. p. r.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5 </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">h. wet.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6 </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">h. p. s. o. p. s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7 </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">h. p. s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8 </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">c. o. o.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">9 </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">h. c. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">10 </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">s. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">11 </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">s. s. s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">12 </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">s. with much drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">13 </td><td align="left">29.338</td><td align="left">+49</td><td align="left">s. and much drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">14 </td><td align="left">29.431</td><td align="left">+46.3</td><td align="left">s. and drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">15 </td><td align="left">29.690</td><td align="left">+44</td><td align="left">s. much drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">16 </td><td align="left">29.605 </td><td align="left">+30.5 </td><td align="left">b. c.; drift; haze and some drift—parhelia;</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">haze with scaly snow; faint aurora to the</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">S. and S. by E. alt. 12°.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">17 </td><td align="left">29.719</td><td align="left">+32.8</td><td align="left">b. c., much drift; aurora to the S.S.E.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">parallel to the horizon; alt. 12°.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">18 </td><td align="left">29.641</td><td align="left">+31.5</td><td align="left">b. c., drift; cirrus; some faint streaks of</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">aurora to the W.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">19 </td><td align="left">29.662</td><td align="left">+29</td><td align="left">b. c., drifting; solar halo with prismatic</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">colours and parhelia; snow and much drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">20 </td><td align="left">29.842</td><td align="left">+29.5</td><td align="left">s. much drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">21 </td><td align="left">29.959</td><td align="left">+30.5</td><td align="left">b. c., much drift; at 8 p.m. several streaks</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">of faint aurora extending across the zenith</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">in a N.W. and S.E. direction; many rays in</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">different parts of the heavens.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">22 </td><td align="left">29.828</td><td align="left">+28.5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">23 </td><td align="left">29.919</td><td align="left">+32</td><td align="left">f. o. f. o. s. o. s. b. c. f. s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">24 </td><td align="left">29.974</td><td align="left">+31</td><td align="left">b. c. o. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">25 </td><td align="left">30.023</td><td align="left">+29</td><td align="left">o. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">26 </td><td align="left">30.062</td><td align="left">+29.3</td><td align="left">o. m. b. c. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">27 </td><td align="left">30.47</td><td align="left">+26.5</td><td align="left">b. c. m., some faint streaks of aurora in</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">various parts of the sky bearing for the</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">most part N.N.W. and S.S.E.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">28 </td><td align="left">30.505</td><td align="left">+26.</td><td align="left">b. c., a few clouds near horizon; a very</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">faint light yellow cloud aurora to the S.E.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">and N.W.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">29 </td><td align="left">30.119</td><td align="left">+30.3</td><td align="left">c. s. b. c. s. o. m. b. c., cirrus extending</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">from S.S.E. to N.N.W., resembling much the</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">aurora. Lunar halo.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">30 </td><td align="left">29.078</td><td align="left">+39.7</td><td align="left">o. m. o. s. b. c. o. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">31 </td><td align="left">30.094</td><td align="left">+34.3</td><td align="left">b. b. c. c., solar halo; cirrus; 120 lunar</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">distances were observed from Jupiter and</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">at Aquilę, E. and W. of the moon.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">Lunar halo diam. 40° or 50°.</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[228]</a></span></p> + +<div class="center"> +Fort Hope, Repulse Bay.—<i>Abstract of Meteorological Journal for November, 1846.</i> +<br /><br /> +</div> + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="left">Day</td><td align="left" colspan="3">Temperature of the Atmosphere</td><td align="center"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">of the</td><td align="left" colspan="3">taken eight times in twenty-</td><td align="center">Prevailing Winds.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Month. </td><td align="left" colspan="3">four hours.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="center"><i>Highest.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Lowest.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Mean.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Direction.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Force.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left"><i>deg.m.</i></td><td align="left"><i>deg.m.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">1 </td><td align="left">+18</td><td align="left">- 3.0</td><td align="left">+ 8.5</td><td align="left">W.N.W. N.E. E.</td><td align="center">2-7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2 </td><td align="left">+26.5</td><td align="left">+22.3</td><td align="left">+24.4</td><td align="left">S.E. S.E. by E. E. by W.</td><td align="center">2-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3 </td><td align="left">+27</td><td align="left">+25.5</td><td align="left">+26.3</td><td align="left">S.E. E.S.E.</td><td align="center">2-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4 </td><td align="left">+26</td><td align="left">+21.5</td><td align="left">+23.8</td><td align="left">S.E.S. S.S.E.</td><td align="center">3-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5 </td><td align="left">+22</td><td align="left">+ 0</td><td align="left">+13.2</td><td align="left">N. by W. N.W. by W.</td><td align="center">2-7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6 </td><td align="left">- .5</td><td align="left">- 9.5</td><td align="left">- 3.5</td><td align="left">W.N.W.</td><td align="center">3-7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7 </td><td align="left">+ 11.5</td><td align="left">+ 6</td><td align="left">+ 9.7</td><td align="left">N. by E.</td><td align="center">4-7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8 </td><td align="left">+ 11</td><td align="left">+ 5</td><td align="left">+ 8.5</td><td align="left">N.</td><td align="center">4-7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">9 </td><td align="left">+12.5</td><td align="left">+ 9.5</td><td align="left">+ 10.9</td><td align="left">E.N.E. N.E.</td><td align="center">3-10</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">10 </td><td align="left">+28.2</td><td align="left">+22.5</td><td align="left">+25.6</td><td align="left">E.S.E. S. S.S.W.</td><td align="center">3-8</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">11 </td><td align="left">+17</td><td align="left">+ 2.5</td><td align="left">+ 7.5</td><td align="left">N.W. N.N.W. W. by N.</td><td align="center">5-8</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">12 </td><td align="left">+ 2.3</td><td align="left">- 8.5</td><td align="left">- 1</td><td align="left">N.N.E. W. N.N.W.</td><td align="center">2-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">13 </td><td align="left">- 6</td><td align="left">- 8</td><td align="left">- 6.8</td><td align="left">N. by W. N.N.W.</td><td align="center">4-8</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">14 </td><td align="left">- 4.6</td><td align="left">- 8.7</td><td align="left">- 6.6</td><td align="left">N.N.W. N. N. by W.</td><td align="center">3-7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">15 </td><td align="left">+ 4.5</td><td align="left">-10.5</td><td align="left">- 3.8</td><td align="left">Calm. Vble. E.</td><td align="center">0-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">16 </td><td align="left">+17.3</td><td align="left">+15</td><td align="left">+16.3</td><td align="left">E. N.E. N.</td><td align="center">1-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">17 </td><td align="left">+ 7.5</td><td align="left">- 8</td><td align="left">+.25</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td><td align="center">4-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">18 </td><td align="left">- 4</td><td align="left">- 9.2</td><td align="left">- 7.1</td><td align="left">N.W. by N. Calm S.W.</td><td align="center">0-2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">19 </td><td align="left">+21.7</td><td align="left">+18</td><td align="left">+20.61</td><td align="left">S.S.E. S.E. E.</td><td align="center">4-7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">20 </td><td align="left">+12</td><td align="left">- 8.8</td><td align="left">+ 2.9</td><td align="left">Calm. S. by E. N.</td><td align="center">0-2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">21 </td><td align="left">+ 4.5</td><td align="left">- 4.2</td><td align="left">- 0.9</td><td align="left">S. S.E. E.</td><td align="center">4-1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">22 </td><td align="left">- 3</td><td align="left">- 4.2</td><td align="left">- 3.6</td><td align="left">S. by E. W. N.W.</td><td align="center">2-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">23 </td><td align="left">-18.5</td><td align="left">-22.5</td><td align="left">-19.77</td><td align="left">N. by W. N.N.W.</td><td align="center">3-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">24 </td><td align="left">-20.5</td><td align="left">-25.2</td><td align="left">-22.54</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td><td align="center">5-1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">25 </td><td align="left">-14.5</td><td align="left">-24.5</td><td align="left">-20.06</td><td align="left">N. by E. N.W. N.W. by W.</td><td align="center">1-3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">26 </td><td align="left">-17.5</td><td align="left">-23.5</td><td align="left">-20.7</td><td align="left">N.</td><td align="center">6-9</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">27 </td><td align="left">-11.8</td><td align="left">-15.5</td><td align="left">-13.6</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td><td align="center">9-10</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">28 </td><td align="left">- 5.4</td><td align="left">- 8.5</td><td align="left">- 6.6</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td><td align="center">7-9</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">29 </td><td align="left">-16.5</td><td align="left">-25.3</td><td align="left">-20.3</td><td align="left">N.N.W. W.N.W.</td><td align="center">6-3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">30 </td><td align="left">-17.5</td><td align="left">-24.4</td><td align="left">-21.</td><td align="left">W. W.N.W. N.W.</td><td align="center">6-3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="4"></td><td align="left">———</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="4"></td><td align="left">+20.59</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="4"></td><td align="left">———</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="4"></td><td align="left">+ 0.68</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p><br /><br /></p> + +<div class="center"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[229]</a></span> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="right">Day of</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Barometer and</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">the Mon.</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Thermometer attached.</td><td align="center">Remarks on the Weather, &c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="center"><i>Barom.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Thermo.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">1 </td><td align="left">30.011</td><td align="left">+35</td><td align="left">b. c. o. s. and drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2 </td><td align="left">29.715</td><td align="left">+38</td><td align="left">o. m. s. o. m. o s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3 </td><td align="left">29.623</td><td align="left">+38.7</td><td align="left">o. m. s. o. s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4 </td><td align="left">29.624</td><td align="left">+39.5</td><td align="left">o. m. b. c. o. m.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5 </td><td align="left">29.796</td><td align="left">+41</td><td align="left">o. m. s. b. c. b. drifting. A faint ray of</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">aurora to the S. E. extending vertically</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">towards the zenith.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6 </td><td align="left">30.009</td><td align="left">+38.8</td><td align="left">b. c. drifting. Some faint beams of aurora</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">extending from S.W. to N.W., alt. 60°; one ray</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">to the S.E. pointing towards the zenith.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7 </td><td align="left">29.894</td><td align="left">+37.3</td><td align="left">o. c. o. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8 </td><td align="left">30.1</td><td align="left">+39.5</td><td align="left">o. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">9 </td><td align="left">39.996</td><td align="left">+35.2</td><td align="left">o. s. drifting thick.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">10 </td><td align="left">29.598</td><td align="left">+40.2</td><td align="left">o s. o. b. c. o. much drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">11 </td><td align="left">29.728</td><td align="left">+38</td><td align="left">o. s. o. m. b. c. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">12 </td><td align="left">30.163</td><td align="left">+38.1</td><td align="left">b. c. m. b. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">13 </td><td align="left">30.214</td><td align="left">+34.9</td><td align="left">b. m. b c. m. much drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">14 </td><td align="left">30.39</td><td align="left">+36.2</td><td align="left">b. m. much drift. Solar halo and parhelia with</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">prismatic colours; hazy near horizon; a faint</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">beam of aurora to the westward directed toward</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">the zenith; drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">15 </td><td align="left">30.239</td><td align="left">+37</td><td align="left">o.m. o. s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">16 </td><td align="left">29.963</td><td align="left">+38</td><td align="left">o.s. b. c. m. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">17 </td><td align="left">30.102</td><td align="left">+37</td><td align="left">o.s. b. c. m. drifting. Three beams of aurora</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">pointing towards the zenith; two of them</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">bearing N.N.W., and the other S.E.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">18 </td><td align="left">30.006</td><td align="left">+33.7</td><td align="left">b. c. fo. o. m. At 9 A.M. there was a very red</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">sky to the N. westward; sound heard at a</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">great distance.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">19 </td><td align="left">29.573</td><td align="left">+36.7</td><td align="left">o. s. b. c. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">20 </td><td align="left">29.420</td><td align="left">+36.8</td><td align="left">o. s. m. o. s. f. b. c. m. At 7 h. 30 m. a</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">faint aurora extending from W. to S.E.,</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">alt. 20°; motion rapid; no prismatic colours.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">21 </td><td align="left">29.409</td><td align="left">+37</td><td align="left">o. s. b. c. s. o. f. s. b. m. s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">22 </td><td align="left">29.615</td><td align="left">+39</td><td align="left">b. c. Some faint streaks of aurora, most of them</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">to the S. eastward, and pointed towards the</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">horizon.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">23 </td><td align="left">29.918</td><td align="left">+33.7</td><td align="left">b. m. b. c. Some faint rays of aurora visible</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">this morning at 5 h. 30 m. in different parts</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">of the heavens; drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">24 </td><td align="left">30.408</td><td align="left">+33.7</td><td align="left">b. c. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">25 </td><td align="left">30.573</td><td align="left">+30.8</td><td align="left">b. b. m. Two faint beams of aurora bearing</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">W.N.W. and pointing towards the zenith;</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">altitude of lower limb 30°.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">26 </td><td align="left">30.606</td><td align="left">+32</td><td align="left">b. m. b. much drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">27 </td><td align="left">29.555</td><td align="left">+31</td><td align="left">b. m. o. s. drifting. Door drifted up.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">28 </td><td align="left">29.41</td><td align="left">+26.6</td><td align="left">o. m. b. c. s. o. s. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">29 </td><td align="left">29.894</td><td align="left">+27.5</td><td align="left">b. c. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">30 </td><td align="left">30.354</td><td align="left">+26</td><td align="left">b. c. m. drifting.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[230]</a></span></p> + +<div class="center"> +Fort Hope, Repulse Bay.—<i>Abstract of Meteorological Journal for December, 1846.</i> +<br /><br /> +</div> + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="left">Day</td><td align="left" colspan="3">Temperature of the Atmosphere</td><td align="center"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">of the</td><td align="left" colspan="3">taken eight times in twenty-</td><td align="center">Prevailing Winds.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Month. </td><td align="left" colspan="3">four hours.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="center"><i>Highest.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Lowest.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Mean.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Direction.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Force.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left"><i>deg.m.</i></td><td align="left"><i>deg.m.</i></td></tr> + + +<tr><td align="right">1 </td><td align="left">-24</td><td align="left">-27</td><td align="left">-25.875</td><td align="left">Calm. N.E. N.</td><td align="center">0-3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2 </td><td align="left">-26.7</td><td align="left">-30</td><td align="left">-28.1</td><td align="left">N.E. Calm. N.</td><td align="center">1-0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3 </td><td align="left">-24.8</td><td align="left">-28.5</td><td align="left">-26.4</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td><td align="center">1-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4 </td><td align="left">-24.8</td><td align="left">-28</td><td align="left">-29.97</td><td align="left">N.W. by W. S.S.W.</td><td align="center">4-0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5 </td><td align="left">-17.3</td><td align="left">-21</td><td align="left">-19.7</td><td align="left">Calm. S. by E. S.S.E.</td><td align="center">0-2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6 </td><td align="left">- 6.5</td><td align="left">-11</td><td align="left">- 9.14</td><td align="left">E. by S. N.E. N.</td><td align="center">5-2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7 </td><td align="left">-16.5</td><td align="left">-24</td><td align="left">-19.7</td><td align="left">N.</td><td align="center">5-7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8 </td><td align="left">-19.5</td><td align="left">-25.6</td><td align="left">-22.61</td><td align="left">N.</td><td align="center">9-8</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">9 </td><td align="left">+14</td><td align="left">-15</td><td align="left">+ .03</td><td align="left">N.N.W. N.N.E. N.E.</td><td align="left">11-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">10 </td><td align="left">+17</td><td align="left">+14.8</td><td align="left">+15.74</td><td align="left">N.E. by N. N.E. E.</td><td align="center">4-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">11 </td><td align="left">+12.7</td><td align="left">+ 9.8</td><td align="left">+11.6</td><td align="left">N. by E. N.N.W. N.W.</td><td align="center">4-1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">12 </td><td align="left">+ 4</td><td align="left">- 6</td><td align="left">+.74</td><td align="left">S. S.S.E. Calm.</td><td align="left">0-3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">13 </td><td align="left">-13</td><td align="left">-17</td><td align="left">-14.93</td><td align="left">N. N. by W.</td><td align="center">4-1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">14 </td><td align="left">-19</td><td align="left">-23</td><td align="left">-20.94</td><td align="left">Calm. Vble.</td><td align="center">0-2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">15 </td><td align="left">- 9</td><td align="left">-19</td><td align="left">-16.55</td><td align="left">N.N.W. N. by W.</td><td align="center">1-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">16 </td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">- 3</td><td align="left">- 1.64</td><td align="left">N. E.N.E. Calm. Vble.</td><td align="center">0-1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">17 </td><td align="left">- 5</td><td align="left">- 9.6</td><td align="left">- 6.05</td><td align="left">Vble. W.N.W.</td><td align="center">1-2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">18 </td><td align="left">- 6</td><td align="left">- 8.5</td><td align="left">- 7.04</td><td align="left">N. by W. W. Vble.</td><td align="center">2-1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">19 </td><td align="left">-14.2</td><td align="left">-20</td><td align="left">-17.4</td><td align="left">N. by W. N.N.W.</td><td align="center">5-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">20 </td><td align="left">- 8.7</td><td align="left">-13</td><td align="left">-10.56</td><td align="left">S. by W. N. by W.N.</td><td align="center">1-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">21 </td><td align="left">-20.7</td><td align="left">-32.3</td><td align="left">-24.83</td><td align="left">N.W. Vble. N.</td><td align="center">1-2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">22 </td><td align="left">-30.5</td><td align="left">-36.5</td><td align="left">-33.4</td><td align="left">W. Calm. N. by E.</td><td align="center">0-2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">23 </td><td align="left">-21.4</td><td align="left">-26</td><td align="left">-23.3</td><td align="left">N.N.E. N.E.N.</td><td align="center">0-1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">24 </td><td align="left">-31</td><td align="left">-35.3</td><td align="left">-33.13</td><td align="left">N.</td><td align="center">7-10</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">25 </td><td align="left">-36</td><td align="left">-38</td><td align="left">-36.83</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td><td align="center">10-8</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">26 </td><td align="left">-34</td><td align="left">-38</td><td align="left">-36.46</td><td align="left">N. by W. N.</td><td align="center">8-11</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">27 </td><td align="left">-30</td><td align="left">-30</td><td align="left">-30</td><td align="left">N.</td><td align="center">10-11</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">28 </td><td align="left">-30.8</td><td align="left">-34.8</td><td align="left">-33.01</td><td align="left">N. N. by W.</td><td align="center">6-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">29 </td><td align="left">-24.5</td><td align="left">-40</td><td align="left">-35</td><td align="left">N.W. by W. Vble. N.N.W.</td><td align="center">0-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">30 </td><td align="left">-25</td><td align="left">-32.3</td><td align="left">-29.63</td><td align="left">N.</td><td align="center">6-9</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">31 </td><td align="left">-23</td><td align="left">-32.5</td><td align="left">-29.25</td><td align="left">N. by W. Vble. N.</td><td align="center">1-7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="4"> </td><td align="left">———</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="4"> </td><td align="left">597.43</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="4"> </td><td align="left">———</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="4"> </td><td align="left">- 19.27</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p><br /><br /></p> + +<div class="center"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[231]</a></span> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="right">Day of</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Barometer and</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">the Mon.</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Thermometer attached.</td><td align="center">Remarks on the Weather, &c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="center"><i>Barom.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Thermo.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">1 </td><td align="left">30.452</td><td align="left">+18.75</td><td align="left">b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2 </td><td align="left">30.237</td><td align="left">+19.6</td><td align="left">b. c. b. c. m. Lunar halo.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3 </td><td align="left">30.886</td><td align="left">+16.3</td><td align="left">b. c. b. c. m.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4 </td><td align="left">30.013</td><td align="left">+17</td><td align="left">b. c. m.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5 </td><td align="left">29.778</td><td align="left">+17.6</td><td align="left">b. c. m. parhelia with prismatic colours;</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">aurora visible to the south in two arches</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">arising from near the horizon to the zenith.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6 </td><td align="left">29.480</td><td align="left">+27.5</td><td align="left">o. s. b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7 </td><td align="left">29.764</td><td align="left">+26</td><td align="left">b. m. c. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8 </td><td align="left">30.039</td><td align="left">+23</td><td align="left">b. c. drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">9 </td><td align="left">29.974</td><td align="left">+22</td><td align="left">s. o. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">10 </td><td align="left">29.892</td><td align="left">+28.3</td><td align="left">s. o. b. c. o. s. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">11 </td><td align="left">29.759</td><td align="left">+32</td><td align="left">o. s. m.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">12 </td><td align="left">30.016</td><td align="left">+26.6</td><td align="left">o. m. s.b.m.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">13 </td><td align="left">30.36</td><td align="left">+31</td><td align="left">b. m. b. c. The sky to the north had a</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">beautiful lake coloured tint at sunset; the</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">most brilliant display of aurora I have</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">observed this winter, the centre being towards</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">the true south, and gradually rising from an</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">altitude of 12° to 70° or 80°. It was of a</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">pale yellowish green colour. Horizontal needle</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">not affected.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">14 </td><td align="left">30.473</td><td align="left">+26</td><td align="left">b. c. m. Some faint beams of aurora in</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">different parts of the heavens. A very faint</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">aurora to the southward.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">15 </td><td align="left">30.37</td><td align="left">+27</td><td align="left">b. m. b. c.o. A very faint aurora; centre true</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">south.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">16 </td><td align="left">30.186</td><td align="left">+30.7</td><td align="left">o. m.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">17 </td><td align="left">30.205</td><td align="left">+27.6</td><td align="left">o. m. b. m. Wind variable from N. to E.;</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">faint aurora to the S.; alt. 10°; centre</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">S.S.W. 30°.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">18 </td><td align="left">30.274</td><td align="left">+29.3</td><td align="left">o. b. c. m. Aurora faint to the S. by W.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">19 </td><td align="left">30.245</td><td align="left">+27.3</td><td align="left">b. c. m. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">20 </td><td align="left">30.259</td><td align="left">+28</td><td align="left">b. c. o. s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">21 </td><td align="left">30.268</td><td align="left">+29</td><td align="left">b. m. Arch of aurora across zenith nearly east</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">and west; brightest at western extremity.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">22 </td><td align="left">30.264</td><td align="left">+22.3</td><td align="left">b. c. b. m.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">23 </td><td align="left">30.168</td><td align="left">+25.3</td><td align="left">b. m. b. c. b. m. s. Spiculę of snow falling.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">Lunar halo faint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">24 </td><td align="left">30.065</td><td align="left">+23.6</td><td align="left">b. m. much drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">25 </td><td align="left">29.996</td><td align="left">+22</td><td align="left">b. m. much drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">26 </td><td align="left">29.83</td><td align="left">+20</td><td align="left">b. c. m. much drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">27 </td><td align="left">29.523</td><td align="left">+15.5</td><td align="left">b. c. m. much drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">28 </td><td align="left">29.536</td><td align="left">+14.3</td><td align="left">b. m. b. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">29 </td><td align="left">29.603</td><td align="left">+14.3</td><td align="left">b. b. c. A faint halo, centre S., alt. about</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"></td><td align="left">20°; wind variable from N. to W. by S.; cirrus</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"></td><td align="left">clouds; halo round moon.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">30 </td><td align="left">29.577</td><td align="left">+11.6</td><td align="left">b. c. drifting; much drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">31 </td><td align="left">29.564</td><td align="left">+15.3</td><td align="left">b. c.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[232]</a></span></p> + +<div class="center"> +Fort Hope, Repulse Bay.—<i>Abstract of Meteorological Journal for January, 1847.</i> +<br /><br /> +</div> + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="left">Day</td><td align="left" colspan="3">Temperature of the Atmosphere</td><td align="center"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">of the</td><td align="left" colspan="3">taken eight times in twenty-</td><td align="center">Prevailing Winds.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Month. </td><td align="left" colspan="3">four hours.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="center"><i>Highest.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Lowest.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Mean.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Direction.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Force.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left"><i>deg.m.</i></td><td align="left"><i>deg.m.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">1</td><td align="left">-23.5</td><td align="left">-32</td><td align="left">-26.96</td><td align="left">N.N.W. N.W. by W. N. by W.</td><td align="center">1-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2 </td><td align="left">-29.5</td><td align="left">-33.5</td><td align="left">-31.8</td><td align="left">N.N.W. N. by W. N.W.</td><td align="center">2-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3 </td><td align="left">-30.3</td><td align="left">-32</td><td align="left">-31.4</td><td align="left">N. by W. Calm. N.N.E.</td><td align="center">0-1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4 </td><td align="left">-31</td><td align="left">-34</td><td align="left">-32.82</td><td align="left">N. Calm. N.</td><td align="center">0-2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5 </td><td align="left">-27.5</td><td align="left">-30</td><td align="left">-28.61</td><td align="left">N. ½ W.</td><td align="center">5-8</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6 </td><td align="left">-26.5</td><td align="left">-31</td><td align="left">-28.3</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td><td align="center">6-8</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7 </td><td align="left">-40</td><td align="left">-42</td><td align="left">-40.9</td><td align="left">N.W. Calm. W. N.W.N.</td><td align="center">0-1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8 </td><td align="left">-44</td><td align="left">-47</td><td align="left">-46.7</td><td align="left">N.W. N.N.W. N. by W.</td><td align="center">1-7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">9 </td><td align="left">-38</td><td align="left">-40</td><td align="left">-39</td><td align="left">N.</td><td align="center">10-11</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">10 </td><td align="left">-12</td><td align="left">-17</td><td align="left">-14.5</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td><td align="center">10-12</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">11 </td><td align="left">-10</td><td align="left">-10</td><td align="left">-10</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td><td align="center">7-11</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">12 </td><td align="left">-12</td><td align="left">-16</td><td align="left">-14</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td><td align="center">7-8</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">13 </td><td align="left">-28.5</td><td align="left">-33.5</td><td align="left">-30.8</td><td align="left">N.N.W. N. by W.</td><td align="center">6-7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">14 </td><td align="left">-33.8</td><td align="left">-36.3</td><td align="left">-35.1</td><td align="left">N. by W. N. ½ W. N. by W.</td><td align="center">7-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">15 </td><td align="left">-38</td><td align="left">-39.5</td><td align="left">-38.7</td><td align="left">N. by W. N.W. N.N.W.</td><td align="center">2-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">16 </td><td align="left">-39.3</td><td align="left">-41</td><td align="left">-37.07</td><td align="left">N. by W. N.N.W. N. by W.</td><td align="center">2-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">17 </td><td align="left">-38</td><td align="left">-41</td><td align="left">-39.6</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td><td align="center">7-8</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">18 </td><td align="left">-37</td><td align="left">-40</td><td align="left">-38.95</td><td align="left">N.W. by N. N. by W.</td><td align="center">2-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">19 </td><td align="left">-25</td><td align="left">-31</td><td align="left">-30.6</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td><td align="center">N.N.W.</td><td align="left">9-11</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">20 </td><td align="left">-14</td><td align="left">-20</td><td align="left">-17</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td><td align="center">8-10</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">21 </td><td align="left">-20.5</td><td align="left">-26.5</td><td align="left">-23.4</td><td align="left">N. by W. N.N.E. N.</td><td align="center">2-9</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">22 </td><td align="left">-14</td><td align="left">-26</td><td align="left">-18.87</td><td align="left">N.W. N.N.W.</td><td align="center">6-11</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">23 </td><td align="left">-10</td><td align="left">-13</td><td align="left">-11.2</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td><td align="center">9-11</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">24 </td><td align="left">-13</td><td align="left">-13</td><td align="left">-13</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td><td align="center">9-11</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">25 </td><td align="left">-26.5</td><td align="left">-32.5</td><td align="left">-29.25</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td><td align="center">4-7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">26 </td><td align="left">-31.5</td><td align="left">-37</td><td align="left">-34.47</td><td align="left">N. Calm. Vble. N.</td><td align="center">0-1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">27 </td><td align="left">-29</td><td align="left">-35</td><td align="left">-32.05</td><td align="left">N. N. by W.</td><td align="center">1-2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">28 </td><td align="left">-33.3</td><td align="left">-35.5</td><td align="left">-34.65</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td><td align="center">6-7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">29 </td><td align="left">-36</td><td align="left">-42.7</td><td align="left">-39.25</td><td align="left">N. by W. W.N.W. N.W.</td><td align="center">4-1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">30 </td><td align="left">-24.7</td><td align="left">-36.5</td><td align="left">-28.64</td><td align="left">S. by W. Vble. E.</td><td align="center">1-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">31 </td><td align="left">-27.5</td><td align="left">-35</td><td align="left">-31.5</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td><td align="center">4-7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="4"> </td><td align="left">———</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="4"> </td><td align="left">909</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="4"> </td><td align="left">———</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="4"> </td><td align="left">-29.32</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p><br /><br /></p> + +<div class="center"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[233]</a></span> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="right">Day of</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Barometer and</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">the Mon.</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Thermometer attached.</td><td align="center">Remarks on the Weather, &c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="center"><i>Barom.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Thermo.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">1 </td><td align="left">29.908</td><td align="left">+17</td><td align="left">b. c. b. c. s. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2 </td><td align="left">30.128</td><td align="left">+16</td><td align="left">b. m. b. Faint aurora, centre S.W. by S.,</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">alt. 15°; drifting; some streaks of aurora</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">to the southward pointing to the zenith.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3 </td><td align="left">30.134</td><td align="left">+18.5</td><td align="left">b. c. b. Much refraction; thermometer in house</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">+11°; a beam of aurora to the south pointing</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">to the zenith.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4 </td><td align="left">30.023</td><td align="left">+15.6</td><td align="left">b. b. Hills much refracted; aurora faint;</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">centre of arch S. by W.; alt. 10°; aurora in</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">a narrow line parallel to horizon, alt. 4°,</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">extent 70°, centre south.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5 </td><td align="left">29.93</td><td align="left">+14.6</td><td align="left">b. c. m. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6 </td><td align="left">30.04</td><td align="left">+14.6</td><td align="left">b. m. drifting. A faint aurora extending from</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">S.S.E. across the zenith.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7 </td><td align="left">29.861</td><td align="left">+12.6</td><td align="left">b. c. m. Mercury froze after two hours'</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">exposure.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8 </td><td align="left">29.8</td><td align="left">+11</td><td align="left">b. b. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">9 </td><td align="left" colspan="2">29.974</td><td align="left">Much drift; could not get out to see</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">thermometer, door being drifted up.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">10 </td><td align="left">29.139</td><td align="left">+ 6</td><td align="left">o. o. Much drift; obliged to take the</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">thermometers into the house, as the pillars</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">of snow on which the posts were placed were</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">nearly all blown away.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">11 </td><td align="left">29.193</td><td align="left">+10.5</td><td align="left">o. b. m. Much drift; a beam of aurora S.E.;</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">alt. 25°.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">12 </td><td align="left">29.309</td><td align="left">+14.5</td><td align="left">b. m. Much drift; very faint aurora; centre</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">W. by N.; alt. 10°.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">13</td><td align="left">29.549</td><td align="left">+12.3</td><td align="left">b. m. drifting; a very faint aurora, centre</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">S.S.W., alt. 16°; extent 60° or 70°.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">14 </td><td align="left">29.588</td><td align="left">+13</td><td align="left">b. c. m. drift; arch of aurora faint,</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">alt. 11°, centre S.S.W., extent 90°.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">15 </td><td align="left">29.608</td><td align="left">+ 7.6</td><td align="left">b. m. c. Streams of bright light shooting from</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">the sun to the alt. of 5°.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">16 </td><td align="left">29.67</td><td align="left">+ 7</td><td align="left">b. c. b. drifting, stratus; arch of aurora</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">faint, centre south, alt. 18°, extent 60°.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">Centre S.S.W., alt. 12°, extent 90°.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">17 </td><td align="left">29.887</td><td align="left">+13</td><td align="left">b. m. drifting. Aurora visible, faint but</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">brightest to the westward; centre S.,</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">alt. 60°.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">18 </td><td align="left">29.245</td><td align="left">+ 6</td><td align="left">b. c. b. c. m. A very faint arch of aurora</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">from the N.W. by N. extending across zenith.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">19 </td><td align="left">29.662</td><td align="left">+ 7</td><td align="left">m. o. much drift; door drifted up.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">20 </td><td align="left">29.472</td><td align="left">+11</td><td align="left">o. q. much drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">21 </td><td align="left">29.60</td><td align="left">+ 9.5</td><td align="left">b. m. much drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">22 </td><td align="left">29.445</td><td align="left">+ 8</td><td align="left">b. m. o. s. o. m. q. s. o. q. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">23 </td><td align="left">29.273</td><td align="left">+ 9.5</td><td align="left">o. m. much drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">24 </td><td align="left">29.366</td><td align="left">+10</td><td align="left">o. q. gale all night; much drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">25 </td><td align="left">29.83</td><td align="left">+ 8</td><td align="left">b. m. drifting; solar halo with parhelia.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">26 </td><td align="left">30.035</td><td align="left">+ 6.3</td><td align="left">b. A faint arch of aurora across zenith S.W.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">and N.E.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">27 </td><td align="left">29.911</td><td align="left">+ 4.6</td><td align="left">b. c. b. c. s. o. m. o. s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">28 </td><td align="left">29.908</td><td align="left">+ 7.3</td><td align="left">b. m. drifting. Very cold to the sensation'</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">spiculę of snow falling; a broad band of</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">aurora, the lower edge having a reddish or</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">lake tint, running parallel to the horizon;</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">alt. 2°, centre S.W., extent 70°; some</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">beams of aurora S.E. pointing towards</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">the zenith.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">29 </td><td align="left">29.954</td><td align="left">+ 7.3</td><td align="left">b. m.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">30 </td><td align="left">29.737</td><td align="left">+ 5.6</td><td align="left">o. b. c. m. s. b. c. s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">31 </td><td align="left">29.714</td><td align="left">+ 8</td><td align="left">b. c. m. Cirrus; drifting.</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[234]</a></span></p> + +<div class="center"> +Fort Hope, Repulse Bay.—<i>Abstract of Meteorological Journal for February, 1847.</i> +<br /><br /> +</div> + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="left">Day</td><td align="left" colspan="3">Temperature of the Atmosphere</td><td align="center"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">of the</td><td align="left" colspan="3">taken eight times in twenty-</td><td align="center">Prevailing Winds.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Month. </td><td align="left" colspan="3">four hours.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="center"><i>Highest.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Lowest.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Mean.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Direction.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Force.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left"><i>deg.m.</i></td><td align="left"><i>deg.m.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">1 </td><td align="left">-29.8</td><td align="left">-38.5</td><td align="left">-33.6</td><td align="left">N.N.W. N.W. W.</td><td align="center">6-1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2 </td><td align="left">-30.8</td><td align="left">-37.3</td><td align="left">-33.73</td><td align="left">N.W. Vble. W. Calm. N.</td><td align="center">0-1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3 </td><td align="left">-29</td><td align="left">-35</td><td align="left">-31.53</td><td align="left">S.W. Calm. Vble.</td><td align="center">0-1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4 </td><td align="left">-19</td><td align="left">-26.5</td><td align="left">-22.67</td><td align="left">Calm. Vble. Calm.</td><td align="center">0-1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5 </td><td align="left">-14</td><td align="left">-20</td><td align="left">-16.71</td><td align="left">N.W. by S.</td><td align="center">4-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6 </td><td align="left">-14.7</td><td align="left">-22.5</td><td align="left">-17.5</td><td align="left">N.</td><td align="center">3-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7 </td><td align="left">-22.5</td><td align="left">-27</td><td align="left">-25.16</td><td align="left">Calm. N. by W. Calm.</td><td align="center">0-1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8 </td><td align="left">-22.3</td><td align="left">-30.5</td><td align="left">-26.25</td><td align="left">N. by W. N.N.W.</td><td align="center">1-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">9 </td><td align="left">-20</td><td align="left">-25.5</td><td align="left">-21.65</td><td align="left">N.W. N.W. by W.</td><td align="center">1-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">10 </td><td align="left">-20</td><td align="left">-27</td><td align="left">-23.35</td><td align="left">N. Vbl. N. by W.</td><td align="center">0-2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">11 </td><td align="left">- 8.7</td><td align="left">-18.3</td><td align="left">-11.64</td><td align="left">W.N.W. N. by W.</td><td align="center">1-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">12 </td><td align="left">-18</td><td align="left">-23.5</td><td align="left">-20.25</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td><td align="center">8-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">13 </td><td align="left">-35.3</td><td align="left">-38</td><td align="left">-36.83</td><td align="left">N.N.W. N. by W.</td><td align="center">7-2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">14 </td><td align="left">-26</td><td align="left">-36.5</td><td align="left">-31</td><td align="left">N.W.</td><td align="center">6-3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">15 </td><td align="left">-37.5</td><td align="left">-42</td><td align="left">-39.83</td><td align="left">N.</td><td align="center">4-7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">16 </td><td align="left">-36.5</td><td align="left">-42</td><td align="left">-39.14</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td><td align="center">7-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">17 </td><td align="left">-35.5</td><td align="left">-40.5</td><td align="left">-38.4</td><td align="left">N. N. by W. N.W.</td><td align="center">7-3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">18 </td><td align="left">-27.5</td><td align="left">-34.5</td><td align="left">-30.57</td><td align="left">N. N. by W. N.N.W.</td><td align="center">1-7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">19 </td><td align="left">-22</td><td align="left">-32.5</td><td align="left">-27.57</td><td align="left">N. Vble. S.S.E.</td><td align="center">4-1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">20 </td><td align="left">-22.5</td><td align="left">-27.5</td><td align="left">-25.3</td><td align="left">N. by W. N. N.N.W.</td><td align="center">7-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">21 </td><td align="left">-19.5</td><td align="left">-27</td><td align="left">-22.83</td><td align="left">N.N.W. N. S.E.</td><td align="center">3-1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">22 </td><td align="left">-13</td><td align="left">-26.5</td><td align="left">-18.85</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td><td align="center">1-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">23 </td><td align="left">-23.5</td><td align="left">-31.5</td><td align="left">-26.57</td><td align="left">N.N.W. N.</td><td align="center">3-1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">24 </td><td align="left">-23</td><td align="left">-34.5</td><td align="left">-27.43</td><td align="left">W. W. by N. N. N.W.</td><td align="center">1-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">25 </td><td align="left">- 9.5</td><td align="left">-27.5</td><td align="left">-20.2</td><td align="left">W. Calm. Vble.</td><td align="center">1-0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">26 </td><td align="left">- 9.3</td><td align="left">-22</td><td align="left">-13.5</td><td align="left">S.E. E. by N. N.</td><td align="center">1-2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">27 </td><td align="left">-24</td><td align="left">-27.5</td><td align="left">-25.54</td><td align="left">N.W. by N. N.N.W.</td><td align="center">4-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">28 </td><td align="left">-34.5</td><td align="left">-40</td><td align="left">-39.2</td><td align="left">N.N.W. N.W. by W.</td><td align="center">6-3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"></td><td align="left">———</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"></td><td align="left">746.85</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"></td><td align="left">———</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"></td><td align="left">-26.68</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p><br /><br /></p> + +<div class="center"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[235]</a></span> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="right">Day of</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Barometer and</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">the Mon.</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Thermometer attached.</td><td align="center">Remarks on the Weather, &c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="center"><i>Barom.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Thermo.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">1 </td><td align="left">29.901</td><td align="left">+ 7.6</td><td align="left">b. m. b.q. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2 </td><td align="left">30.023</td><td align="left">+ 5.3</td><td align="left">b. b.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3 </td><td align="left">30.593</td><td align="left">+ 2.6</td><td align="left">b. c. o. cirrus and cirro-stratus.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4 </td><td align="left">30.219</td><td align="left">+ 5</td><td align="left">b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5 </td><td align="left">30.339</td><td align="left">+ 5.6</td><td align="left">b. c. q. much refraction; drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6 </td><td align="left">30.18</td><td align="left">+11.</td><td align="left">b. c. m. b. c. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7 </td><td align="left">30.??4</td><td align="left">+12.</td><td align="left">b. c. cirrus; cloudy near horizon.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8 </td><td align="left">30.418</td><td align="left">+10.3</td><td align="left">b. m. spiculę. much refraction.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">9 </td><td align="left">30.432</td><td align="left">+12.</td><td align="left">o. m. b. c. m. drifting; solar halo with</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">parhelia; a faint arch of aurora.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">10 </td><td align="left">30.065</td><td align="left">+ 8.3</td><td align="left">b. c. cirrus; some faint beams of aurora south</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">and south-south-west (say south-west).</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">11 </td><td align="left">29.865</td><td align="left">+12.6</td><td align="left">b. c. m. o. s. b. c. s. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">12 </td><td align="left">29.71</td><td align="left">+12.</td><td align="left">b. m much drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">13 </td><td align="left">29.644</td><td align="left">+10.5</td><td align="left">b. m. b. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">14 </td><td align="left">29.65</td><td align="left">+10.</td><td align="left">b. m. b.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">15 </td><td align="left">29.816</td><td align="left">+12.6</td><td align="left">b. b. m. b. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">16 </td><td align="left">29.899</td><td align="left">+13.3</td><td align="left">b. m. b. much drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">17 </td><td align="left">29.84</td><td align="left">+ 7.6</td><td align="left">b. m. b. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">18 </td><td align="left">29.869</td><td align="left">+ 7.3</td><td align="left">b. c. o. b. c. m. much drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">19 </td><td align="left">29.9</td><td align="left">+ 6.7</td><td align="left">b. c. s. o. m. Solar halo with prismatic</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">colours and parhelia.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">20 </td><td align="left">29.9</td><td align="left">+ 8</td><td align="left">b. m. b. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">21 </td><td align="left">30.329</td><td align="left">+ 7</td><td align="left">b. c. b. c. m.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">22 </td><td align="left">30.276</td><td align="left">+ 9.6</td><td align="left">b. m. b. c. s. o. s. b. c. s. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">23 </td><td align="left">30.459</td><td align="left">+ 9.3</td><td align="left">b. m. b. c. cirrus; Venus visible for the</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">first time, the horizon having been too hazy</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">to see her sooner.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">24 </td><td align="left">30.326</td><td align="left">+ 7</td><td align="left">b.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">25 </td><td align="left">30.008</td><td align="left">+ 6</td><td align="left">b. b. c. much refraction.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">26 </td><td align="left">30.221</td><td align="left">+ 8.3</td><td align="left">b. m. c. b. c. s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">27 </td><td align="left">30.146</td><td align="left">+12</td><td align="left">b. m. c. b. c. s. b. c. m. drifting along</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">the ground.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">28 </td><td align="left">30.073</td><td align="left">+11</td><td align="left">b. m. drifting.</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[236]</a></span></p> + +<div class="center"> +Fort Hope, Repulse Bay.—<i>Abstract of Meteorological Journal for March, 1847.</i> +<br /><br /> +</div> + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="left">Day</td><td align="left" colspan="3">Temperature of the Atmosphere</td><td align="center"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">of the</td><td align="left" colspan="3">taken eight times in twenty-</td><td align="center">Prevailing Winds.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Month. </td><td align="left" colspan="3">four hours.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="center"><i>Highest.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Lowest.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Mean.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Direction.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Force.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left"><i>deg.m.</i></td><td align="left"><i>deg.m.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">1 </td><td align="left">-30.5</td><td align="left">-45</td><td align="left">-37.5</td><td align="left">N. by W. Chble. N.W. by N.</td><td align="center">0-2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2 </td><td align="left">-30.5</td><td align="left">-40.5</td><td align="left">-35.4</td><td align="left">N.W. by N. N.N.W.</td><td align="center">2-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3 </td><td align="left">-30</td><td align="left">-37</td><td align="left">-33.7</td><td align="left">N.W. by N. N.N.W.</td><td align="center">4-7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4 </td><td align="left">-27</td><td align="left">-38</td><td align="left">-32</td><td align="left">N. by W. N.W. by N.</td><td align="center">4-7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5 </td><td align="left">-26</td><td align="left">-33</td><td align="left">-28.4</td><td align="left">N. by W. N.W. by N.</td><td align="center">8-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6 </td><td align="left">-27</td><td align="left">-33</td><td align="left">-29.4</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td><td align="center">8-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7 </td><td align="left">-27.5</td><td align="left">-37</td><td align="left">-33</td><td align="left">N.N. ½ E.</td><td align="center">7-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8 </td><td align="left">-25</td><td align="left">-31.5</td><td align="left">-27.5</td><td align="left">N. N. by W. N.N.W.</td><td align="center">7-9</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">9 </td><td align="left">-20</td><td align="left">-30.5</td><td align="left">-25.3</td><td align="left">N.N.W. N.W. by N.</td><td align="center">4-2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">10 </td><td align="left">-21</td><td align="left">-33.5</td><td align="left">-27.2</td><td align="left">N.W. N.N.W.</td><td align="center">1-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">11 </td><td align="left">-10.7</td><td align="left">-27.5</td><td align="left">-20</td><td align="left">N.W. by N. N. by W.</td><td align="center">1-3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">12 </td><td align="left">-19.5</td><td align="left">-30.5</td><td align="left">-23.7</td><td align="left">N.N.W. N. N. by W.</td><td align="center">8-10</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">13 </td><td align="left">-15</td><td align="left">-19.5</td><td align="left">-16.5</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td><td align="center">10-12</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">14 </td><td align="left">-13.5</td><td align="left">-15</td><td align="left">-14.5</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td><td align="center">11-7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">15 </td><td align="left">-11</td><td align="left">-19</td><td align="left">-14.2</td><td align="left">N. N.N.W.</td><td align="center">8-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">16 </td><td align="left">-7.7</td><td align="left">-19</td><td align="left">-11.7</td><td align="left">N.W. by N. N. by W.</td><td align="center">3-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">17 </td><td align="left">-24</td><td align="left">-30</td><td align="left">-26.5</td><td align="left">N. W.N.W. W.</td><td align="center">1-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">18 </td><td align="left">-18.7</td><td align="left">-37.5</td><td align="left">-29.1</td><td align="left">Calm. S.S.E. W.</td><td align="center">0-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">19 </td><td align="left">-14</td><td align="left">-29.5</td><td align="left">-21.4</td><td align="left">W. Vble.</td><td align="center">2-1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">20 </td><td align="left">-23.5</td><td align="left">-32.5</td><td align="left">-29.1</td><td align="left">N.N.W. N. N. by W.</td><td align="center">6-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">21 </td><td align="left">-23</td><td align="left">-29.5</td><td align="left">-25.9</td><td align="left">W.N.W.</td><td align="center">10-7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">22 </td><td align="left">-16</td><td align="left">-27</td><td align="left">-21.6</td><td align="left">N W. by N. W.</td><td align="center">6-1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">23 </td><td align="left">-16</td><td align="left">-33</td><td align="left">-22.6</td><td align="left">N.W. Chble. N. by W.</td><td align="center">1-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">24 </td><td align="left">-29</td><td align="left">-33.5</td><td align="left">-30.9</td><td align="left">N. by W. N.N.W.</td><td align="center">9-7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">25 </td><td align="left">-27</td><td align="left">-35</td><td align="left">-30.4</td><td align="left">N. by W. N.N.W.</td><td align="center">7-9</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">26 </td><td align="left">-26.5</td><td align="left">-35.5</td><td align="left">-30.6</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td><td align="center">6-8</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">27 </td><td align="left">-24.5</td><td align="left">-34</td><td align="left">-28.1</td><td align="left">N. by W. N.N.W.</td><td align="center">6-8</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">28 </td><td align="left">-26</td><td align="left">-35</td><td align="left">-30.2</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td><td align="center">2-7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">29 </td><td align="left">-22</td><td align="left">-33</td><td align="left">-26.37</td><td align="left">N.N.W. N. W.N.W.</td><td align="center">8-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">30 </td><td align="left">-15</td><td align="left">-32</td><td align="left">-20.54</td><td align="left">N.W. N. by W.</td><td align="center">2-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">31 </td><td align="left">-6</td><td align="left">-14</td><td align="left">-8.6</td><td align="left">N.N.W. N.W. by N.</td><td align="center">7-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">———</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">811.91</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">———</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">-28.1</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p><br /><br /></p> + +<div class="center"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[237]</a></span> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="right">Day of</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Barometer and</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">the Mon.</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Thermometer attached.</td><td align="center">Remarks on the Weather, &c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="center"><i>Barom.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Thermo.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">1 </td><td align="left">30.152</td><td align="left">+ 4.3</td><td align="left">b. b.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2 </td><td align="left">30.296</td><td align="left">+ 4</td><td align="left">b.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3 </td><td align="left">30.268</td><td align="left">+ 4.6</td><td align="left">b. m. drifting. The wind between noon and</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">2 P.M. went round for a few minutes, and</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">then went back to its old direction.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4 </td><td align="left">30.399</td><td align="left">+ 6.3</td><td align="left">b. m. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5 </td><td align="left">30.492</td><td align="left">+ 7</td><td align="left">b. m. b. c. m. much drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6 </td><td align="left">30.63</td><td align="left">+11.3</td><td align="left">b. c. m. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7 </td><td align="left">30.514</td><td align="left">+10.5</td><td align="left">b. m. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8 </td><td align="left">30.232</td><td align="left">+ 7.6</td><td align="left">b. c. m. much drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">9 </td><td align="left">30.194</td><td align="left">+ 8</td><td align="left">b. b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">10 </td><td align="left">30.179</td><td align="left">+ 4</td><td align="left">b. b. c. cirrus.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">11 </td><td align="left">30.305</td><td align="left">+ 4.7</td><td align="left">b.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">12 </td><td align="left">30.449</td><td align="left">+ 9.7</td><td align="left">b. m. much drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">13 </td><td align="left">30.089</td><td align="left">+ 7</td><td align="left">b. q. thick drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">14 </td><td align="left">30.07</td><td align="left">+ 5</td><td align="left">b. m. q. b. c. m. much drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">15 </td><td align="left">30.886</td><td align="left">+13</td><td align="left">b. c. m. q. b. c. m. o. m. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">16 </td><td align="left">29.578</td><td align="left">+12</td><td align="left">o. s. b. c. s. b. c. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">17 </td><td align="left">29.814</td><td align="left">+ 6.6</td><td align="left">b. c. b. q. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">18 </td><td align="left">29.99</td><td align="left">+ 4.6</td><td align="left">b. c. m. Solar halo with prismatic</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">colours; drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">19 </td><td align="left">30.001</td><td align="left">+ 5.6</td><td align="left">b. m. b. c. cirrus.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">20 </td><td align="left">29.569</td><td align="left">+ 8</td><td align="left">b. m. b. c. m.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">21 </td><td align="left">29.372</td><td align="left">+ 3</td><td align="left">o. s. o. m. b. m. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">22 </td><td align="left">29.673</td><td align="left">+ 5</td><td align="left">b. c. m. q. cirrus.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">23 </td><td align="left">29.823</td><td align="left">+ 6.7</td><td align="left">b. c. m. o. s. Spiculę; halo with</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">prismatic colours; drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">24 </td><td align="left">29.854</td><td align="left">+ 3.7</td><td align="left">b. m. b. c. m. much drift; door</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">drifted up.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">25 </td><td align="left">29.899</td><td align="left">+ .7</td><td align="left">b. m. c. m. much drift; door drifted up.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">26 </td><td align="left">30.196</td><td align="left">+ 1.3</td><td align="left">b. c. m. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">27 </td><td align="left">30.046</td><td align="left">- .3</td><td align="left">b. m. b. c. m. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">28 </td><td align="left">30.161</td><td align="left">+ 1</td><td align="left">b. m. c. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">29 </td><td align="left">30.142</td><td align="left">+ 2</td><td align="left">b. m. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">30 </td><td align="left">30.182</td><td align="left">+ 3.5</td><td align="left">b. c. m. o. m. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">31 </td><td align="left">30.867</td><td align="left">+10.6</td><td align="left">b. c. m. b. c. s. o. s. drifting.</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[238]</a></span></p> + +<div class="center"> +Fort Hope, Repulse Bay.—<i>Abstract of Meteorological Journal for April, 1847.</i> +<br /><br /> +</div> + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="left">Day</td><td align="left" colspan="3">Temperature of the Atmosphere</td><td align="center"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">of the</td><td align="left" colspan="3">taken eight times in twenty-</td><td align="center">Prevailing Winds.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Month. </td><td align="left" colspan="3">four hours.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="center"><i>Highest.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Lowest.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Mean.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Direction.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Force.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left"><i>deg.m.</i></td><td align="left"><i>deg.m.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">1 </td><td align="left">-6.5</td><td align="left">-18.3</td><td align="left">-11.57</td><td align="left">N.W. by W.</td><td align="center">W. by N.</td><td align="left">3-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2 </td><td align="left">-0.5</td><td align="left">-21</td><td align="left">-9.03</td><td align="left">W. N.N.W. N.W.</td><td align="center">2-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3 </td><td align="left">+8</td><td align="left">-23.5</td><td align="left">-6.7</td><td align="left">Vble. Calm.</td><td align="center">1-0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4 </td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">-13</td><td align="left">-4.5</td><td align="left">N.W. by N. N.</td><td align="center">2-1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5 </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">-10</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td><td align="center">5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6 </td><td align="left">+11</td><td align="left">-20</td><td align="left">-5.3</td><td align="left">S.</td><td align="center">4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7 </td><td align="left">+18</td><td align="left">-9</td><td align="left">+3.67</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8 </td><td align="left">+20</td><td align="left">-2</td><td align="left">+8.3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">9 </td><td align="left">+2</td><td align="left">-12</td><td align="left">-5</td><td align="left">N.N.W</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">10 </td><td align="left">+19</td><td align="left">-15</td><td align="left">+3.66</td><td align="left">E.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">11 </td><td align="left">+10</td><td align="left">-15</td><td align="left">-1.6</td><td align="left">E.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">12 </td><td align="left">+16</td><td align="left">-17</td><td align="left">-2</td><td align="left">S.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">13 </td><td align="left">+21</td><td align="left">-11</td><td align="left">+5.3</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">14 </td><td align="left">+15</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">+6.6</td><td align="left">W.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">15 </td><td align="left">-7</td><td align="left">-17</td><td align="left">-11.3</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td><td align="center">9</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">16 </td><td align="left">-10</td><td align="left">-19</td><td align="left">-15.3</td><td align="left">N.</td><td align="center">9</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">17 </td><td align="left">-8</td><td align="left">-22</td><td align="left">-16.3</td><td align="left">N.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">18 </td><td align="left">-2</td><td align="left">-20</td><td align="left">-12</td><td align="left">N.W.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">19 </td><td align="left">-5</td><td align="left">-25</td><td align="left">-13.7</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">20 </td><td align="left">-5</td><td align="left">-20</td><td align="left">-12.67</td><td align="left">N.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">21 </td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">-22</td><td align="left">-10.3</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">22 </td><td align="left">-8</td><td align="left">-22</td><td align="left">-13.3</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">23 </td><td align="left">+17</td><td align="left">-12</td><td align="left">+1.67</td><td align="left">Vble.</td><td align="center">2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">24 </td><td align="left">-6</td><td align="left">-10</td><td align="left">-4.3</td><td align="left">N.W.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">25 </td><td align="left">+7</td><td align="left">-2</td><td align="left">+1</td><td align="left">N.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">26 </td><td align="left">+5</td><td align="left">-10</td><td align="left">-1.6</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">27 </td><td align="left">+8</td><td align="left">-5</td><td align="left">+2</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">28 </td><td align="left">+10</td><td align="left">-3</td><td align="left">+4</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">29 </td><td align="left">+11</td><td align="left">-1</td><td align="left">+4</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">30 </td><td align="left">+20</td><td align="left">-1</td><td align="left">+9.6</td><td align="left">N.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">———</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">122.57</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">———</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">-3.95</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p><br /><br /></p> + +<div class="center"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[239]</a></span> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="right">Day of</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Barometer and</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">the Mon.</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Thermometer attached.</td><td align="center">Remarks on the Weather, &c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="center"><i>Barom.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Thermo.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">1 </td><td align="left">29.83</td><td align="left">+ 10</td><td align="left">b. c. m. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2 </td><td align="left">29.709</td><td align="left"></td><td align="left">b. b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3 </td><td align="left">29.708</td><td align="left">+ 4</td><td align="left">b. b. c. Barometer not registered after this.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">Thermometer with colourless ??? rose to 5°</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">only, although freely exposed to the sun's</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">rays. At 8 P.M. a faint aurora of an orange</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">colour; centre south; alt. 5°</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4 </td><td align="left"></td><td align="left"></td><td align="left">o. m. b. c. s. o.s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5 </td><td align="left"></td><td align="left"></td><td align="left">o. s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">9 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">10 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">11 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">12 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">13 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">much drift all day.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">14 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">much drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">15 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">16 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">much drift and snow.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">17 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">18 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">thick drift and snow. Some partridges seen.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">19 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">20 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">21 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">22 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">23 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">drifting thick.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">24 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">25 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">26 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">snow and drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">27 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">28 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">29 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">30 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">drifting.</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[240]</a></span></p> + +<div class="center"> +Fort Hope, Repulse Bay.—<i>Abstract of Meteorological Journal for May, 1847.</i> +<br /><br /> +</div> + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="left">Day</td><td align="left" colspan="3">Temperature of the Atmosphere</td><td align="center"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">of the</td><td align="left" colspan="3">taken eight times in twenty-</td><td align="center">Prevailing Winds.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Month. </td><td align="left" colspan="3">four hours.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="center"><i>Highest.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Lowest.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Mean.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Direction.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Force.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left"><i>deg.m.</i></td><td align="left"><i>deg.m.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">1 </td><td align="left">+20</td><td align="left">+ 4</td><td align="left">+11.6</td><td align="left">W.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2 </td><td align="left">+20</td><td align="left">+ 5</td><td align="left">+12</td><td align="left">N.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3 </td><td align="left">+17</td><td align="left">+ 4</td><td align="left">+ 9.3</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4 </td><td align="left">+10</td><td align="left">+ 0</td><td align="left">+ 3.3</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5 </td><td align="left">+10</td><td align="left">- 4</td><td align="left">+ 3.67</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6 </td><td align="left">+20</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">+ 9.3</td><td align="left">Vble. Calm.</td><td align="center">1-2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7 </td><td align="left">+24</td><td align="left">- 1.5</td><td align="left">+10.5</td><td align="left">S.E. E.</td><td align="center">2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8 </td><td align="left">+23</td><td align="left">+ 6</td><td align="left">+14.8</td><td align="left">Vble. E. S.S.E.</td><td align="center">1-3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">9 </td><td align="left">+26</td><td align="left">+16</td><td align="left">+18.5</td><td align="left">S.E. E.</td><td align="center">2-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">10 </td><td align="left">+19.5</td><td align="left">+12</td><td align="left">+15.67</td><td align="left">E. by S. E.N.E.</td><td align="center">6-10</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">11 </td><td align="left">+32.3</td><td align="left">+18.5</td><td align="left">+24.6</td><td align="left">S. by E. S.W. W.N.W.</td><td align="center">1-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">12 </td><td align="left">+25.5</td><td align="left">+10</td><td align="left">+15.93</td><td align="left">N.W.</td><td align="center">2-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">13 </td><td align="left">+25</td><td align="left">+ 4.5</td><td align="left">+11.5</td><td align="left">W.</td><td align="center">7-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">14 </td><td align="left">+33</td><td align="left">+18</td><td align="left">+23.3</td><td align="left">S.W.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">15 </td><td align="left">+17</td><td align="left">+10</td><td align="left">+12.67</td><td align="left">N.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">16 </td><td align="left">+15</td><td align="left">+ 9</td><td align="left">+11.3</td><td align="left">N.W.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">17 </td><td align="left">+20</td><td align="left">+15</td><td align="left">+17</td><td align="left">W.N.W.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">18 </td><td align="left">+30</td><td align="left">+15</td><td align="left">+21.67</td><td align="left">N.W.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">19 </td><td align="left">+40</td><td align="left">+18</td><td align="left">+27.6</td><td align="left">S.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">20 </td><td align="left">+37</td><td align="left">+21</td><td align="left">+27.3</td><td align="left">N.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">21 </td><td align="left">+28</td><td align="left">+18</td><td align="left">+21.3</td><td align="left">N.</td><td align="center">11</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">22 </td><td align="left">+22</td><td align="left">+16</td><td align="left">+18.3</td><td align="left">N.</td><td align="center">10</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">23 </td><td align="left">+25</td><td align="left">+16</td><td align="left">+21</td><td align="left">N.</td><td align="center">10</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">24 </td><td align="left">+33</td><td align="left">+26</td><td align="left">+28.66</td><td align="left">N.E.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">25 </td><td align="left">+43</td><td align="left">+23</td><td align="left">+30.67</td><td align="left">N.E. by N.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">26 </td><td align="left">+34</td><td align="left">+24</td><td align="left">+27.67</td><td align="left">N.N.E.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">27 </td><td align="left">+28</td><td align="left">+21</td><td align="left">+24.66</td><td align="left">N.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">28 </td><td align="left">+25</td><td align="left">+16</td><td align="left">+20</td><td align="left">N.W.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">29 </td><td align="left">+45</td><td align="left">+18</td><td align="left">+28</td><td align="left">S.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">30 </td><td align="left">+43</td><td align="left">+24</td><td align="left">+30.67</td><td align="left">S.E.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">31 </td><td align="left">+23</td><td align="left">+18</td><td align="left">+21</td><td align="left">N.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">———</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">553.44</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">———</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">+17.88</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p><br /><br /></p> + +<div class="center"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[241]</a></span> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="right">Day of</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Barometer and</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">the Mon.</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Thermometer attached.</td><td align="center">Remarks on the Weather, &c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="center"><i>Barom.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Thermo.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">1 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">Newman's improved Cistern Barometer used.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">{ Correction for capacities -1/34</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">{ Neutral point -30.302</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">{ Capillary action +.042</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">{ Temperature +60°</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">A snow bird was seen.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">o. s. b. c. s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">o. s. An inch of snow fallen.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">9 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">o. s. o. o.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">10 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">o. s and drifting thick.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">11 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">o. s. pools of water. Beautiful evening,</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">12 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">b. c. drifting.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">13 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">b. c. o. m.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">14 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">15 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">fine weather.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">16 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">thick weather.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">17 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">18 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">19 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">20 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">21 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">Much snow drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">22 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">Much snow and snow drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">23 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">Much snow drift.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">24 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">25 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">26 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">27 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">Snow and drift until evening.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">28 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">29 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">30 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">Cloudy with snow.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">31 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">Strong gale with drift.</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[242]</a></span></p> + +<div class="center"> +Fort Hope, Repulse Bay.—<i>Abstract of Meteorological Journal for June, 1847.</i> +<br /><br /> +</div> + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="left">Day</td><td align="left" colspan="3">Temperature of the Atmosphere</td><td align="center"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">of the</td><td align="left" colspan="3">taken eight times in twenty-</td><td align="center">Prevailing Winds.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Month. </td><td align="left" colspan="3">four hours.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="center"><i>Highest.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Lowest.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Mean.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Direction.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Force.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left"><i>deg.m.</i></td><td align="left"><i>deg.m.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">1 </td><td align="left">+25</td><td align="left">+12</td><td align="left">+19.3</td><td align="left">S.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2 </td><td align="left">+35</td><td align="left">+17</td><td align="left">+25.3</td><td align="left">N.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3 </td><td align="left">+26</td><td align="left">+14</td><td align="left">+20</td><td align="left">N.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4 </td><td align="left">+32</td><td align="left">+14</td><td align="left">+21.7</td><td align="left">N.W.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5 </td><td align="left">+29</td><td align="left">+18</td><td align="left">+22</td><td align="left">N.W.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6 </td><td align="left">+43</td><td align="left">+21</td><td align="left">+28.3</td><td align="left">Vble.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7 </td><td align="left">+28</td><td align="left">+18</td><td align="left">+22</td><td align="left">N.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8 </td><td align="left">+30</td><td align="left">+16</td><td align="left">+22.7</td><td align="left">N.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">9 </td><td align="left">+38</td><td align="left">+24</td><td align="left">+30.6</td><td align="left">N.N.W. and Vble.</td><td align="center">3-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">10 </td><td align="left">+39</td><td align="left">+26</td><td align="left">+31.3</td><td align="left">N. and N.N.E.</td><td align="center">1-3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">11 </td><td align="left">+34</td><td align="left">+28.5</td><td align="left">+30.8</td><td align="left">Vble. N.</td><td align="center">1-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">12 </td><td align="left">+35</td><td align="left">+26.5</td><td align="left">+30.7</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td><td align="center">6-8</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">13 </td><td align="left">+37</td><td align="left">+27</td><td align="left">+32.3</td><td align="left">N.</td><td align="center">5-7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">14 </td><td align="left">+40</td><td align="left">+29.5</td><td align="left">+34</td><td align="left">N. by E.</td><td align="center">2-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">15 </td><td align="left">+43.5</td><td align="left">+26</td><td align="left">+35.5</td><td align="left">E. Vble. S.W.</td><td align="center">2-3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">16 </td><td align="left">+39.5</td><td align="left">+36</td><td align="left">+37.3</td><td align="left">N. N.W.</td><td align="center">4-2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">17 </td><td align="left">+37</td><td align="left">+30.5</td><td align="left">+34</td><td align="left">E. by S. S.E.</td><td align="center">3-1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">18 </td><td align="left">+38.5</td><td align="left">+32.5</td><td align="left">+34.67</td><td align="left">E. N.E.</td><td align="center">2-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">19 </td><td align="left">+34.5</td><td align="left">+31</td><td align="left">+32.5</td><td align="left">N.N. by W.</td><td align="center">7-9</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">20 </td><td align="left">+37</td><td align="left">+33.5</td><td align="left">+34.8</td><td align="left">W.N.W.</td><td align="center">10-11</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">21 </td><td align="left">+45.5</td><td align="left">+33</td><td align="left">+37.66</td><td align="left">W. by N. S.E.</td><td align="center">9-6-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">22 </td><td align="left">+40.5</td><td align="left">+32</td><td align="left">+35.1</td><td align="left">N. N.N.W. N.W.</td><td align="center">8-7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">23 </td><td align="left">+42</td><td align="left">+32.5</td><td align="left">+36.2</td><td align="left">W. N.W.</td><td align="center">6-4-2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">24 </td><td align="left">+46.5</td><td align="left">+33</td><td align="left">+38.73</td><td align="left">Calm. Vble. S.E.</td><td align="center">0-2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">25 </td><td align="left">+36.7</td><td align="left">+32.5</td><td align="left">+34.23</td><td align="left">E. by S.</td><td align="center">3-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">26 </td><td align="left">+37</td><td align="left">+31.3</td><td align="left">+33.66</td><td align="left">E.S.E. E. by N. N.E.</td><td align="center">6-9</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">27 </td><td align="left">+34.3</td><td align="left">+31</td><td align="left">+32.6</td><td align="left">N.W. W.N.W.</td><td align="center">10-11</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">28 </td><td align="left">+34</td><td align="left">+31.5</td><td align="left">+32.83</td><td align="left">W. W. by N. W.N.W.</td><td align="center">9-8</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">29 </td><td align="left">+37.3</td><td align="left">+33.7</td><td align="left">+35</td><td align="left">N.W. N.W. by W.</td><td align="center">10-8-0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">30 </td><td align="left">+41</td><td align="left">+32.3</td><td align="left">+35.6</td><td align="left">W.N.W. N.W. N.</td><td align="center">7-8</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">———</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">942.51</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">———</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">+31.38</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p><br /><br /></p> + +<div class="center"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[243]</a></span> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="right">Day of</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Barometer and</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">the Mon.</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Thermometer attached.</td><td align="center">Remarks on the Weather, &c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="center"><i>Barom.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Thermo.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">1 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">A strong gale.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">9 </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">10 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"> </td><td align="left">b. c. m. Arrived at the house from our journey</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"> </td><td align="left" colspan="2"> </td><td align="left">at 8h. 20m. A.M. by watch, or 7h. 20m.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"> </td><td align="left" colspan="2"> </td><td align="left">true time.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">11 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"> </td><td align="left">b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">12 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"> </td><td align="left">o. s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">13 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"> </td><td align="left">o. s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">14 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"> </td><td align="left">o. p. s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">15 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"> </td><td align="left">b. c. p. sleet.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">15 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"> </td><td align="left">b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">17 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"> </td><td align="left">b. c. p. o. r. First rain this spring.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">18 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"> </td><td align="left">o. r. o. f. o. r.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">19 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"> </td><td align="left">s. o. r. o.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">20 </td><td align="left">29.480</td><td align="left">+37</td><td align="left">p. r. b. c. b. c. p. r. b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">21 </td><td align="left">29.817</td><td align="left">+49</td><td align="left">b. c. q. o. r.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">22 </td><td align="left">30.289</td><td align="left">+40</td><td align="left">o. b. c. p. s. Showers of snow and sleet during</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"> </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">the night.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">23 </td><td align="left">30.14</td><td align="left">+40.3</td><td align="left">o. b. c. Saw sun at midnight, lower limb</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"> </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">touching the high ground.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">24 </td><td align="left">30.147</td><td align="left">+46.5</td><td align="left">b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">25 </td><td align="left">30.04</td><td align="left">+40</td><td align="left">o. o. f. A few flakes of snow falling.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">26 </td><td align="left">29.68</td><td align="left">+38.7</td><td align="left">o. s. o. w. s. Half inch of snow during the</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"> </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">night. Wet snow.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">27 </td><td align="left">29.273</td><td align="left">+37</td><td align="left">o. s. o. p. s. q. From 6 to 8 inches of snow</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"> </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">during the night.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">28 </td><td align="left">29.39</td><td align="left">+35.6</td><td align="left">b. c. q. o. s. q.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">29 </td><td align="left">29.488</td><td align="left">+40</td><td align="left">o. p. s. q. b. c. q. b. c. p. s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">30 </td><td align="left">29.61</td><td align="left">+38</td><td align="left">o. s. b. c. p. s. q. b. c. p. r. q. Wet snow.</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[244]</a></span></p> + +<div class="center"> +Fort Hope, Repulse Bay.—<i>Abstract of Meteorological Journal for July, 1847.</i> +<br /><br /> +</div> + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="left">Day</td><td align="left" colspan="3">Temperature of the Atmosphere</td><td align="center"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">of the</td><td align="left" colspan="3">taken eight times in twenty-</td><td align="center">Prevailing Winds.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Month. </td><td align="left" colspan="3">four hours.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="center"><i>Highest.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Lowest.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Mean.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Direction.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Force.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left"><i>deg.m.</i></td><td align="left"><i>deg.m.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">1 </td><td align="left">+39</td><td align="left">+29.3</td><td align="left">+33.6</td><td align="left">N.N.W. N. by W. N.</td><td align="center">4-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2 </td><td align="left">+38</td><td align="left">+31.3</td><td align="left">+34.6</td><td align="left">N. N.W. by N. N.W.</td><td align="center">7-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3 </td><td align="left">+46.5</td><td align="left">+32</td><td align="left">+38.17</td><td align="left">W. Calm.</td><td align="center">7-6-0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4 </td><td align="left">+35.5</td><td align="left">+33</td><td align="left">+34.1</td><td align="left">N.E.</td><td align="center">6-5-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5 </td><td align="left">+45.5</td><td align="left">+35</td><td align="left">+39.8</td><td align="left">W.</td><td align="center">5-3-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6 </td><td align="left">+46</td><td align="left">+34</td><td align="left">+39.17</td><td align="left">W.N.W. N. by W. Chble.</td><td align="center">7-0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7 </td><td align="left">+49</td><td align="left">+38</td><td align="left">+43</td><td align="left">E. by S. S.E. Calm.</td><td align="center">2-4-0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8 </td><td align="left">+51</td><td align="left">+35</td><td align="left">+42</td><td align="left">E. E.S.E. E.</td><td align="center">3-5-1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">9 </td><td align="left">+48.7</td><td align="left">+32.3</td><td align="left">+38.7</td><td align="left">N. Vble. E.</td><td align="center">5-2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">10 </td><td align="left">+41</td><td align="left">+35</td><td align="left">+37.17</td><td align="left">E.S.E.</td><td align="center">5-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">11 </td><td align="left">+36</td><td align="left">+33</td><td align="left">+34.5</td><td align="left">E. by N. Calm.</td><td align="center">4-3-0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">12 </td><td align="left">+39.3</td><td align="left">+35</td><td align="left">+36.7</td><td align="left">N. N. by E.</td><td align="center">3-5-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">13 </td><td align="left">+38</td><td align="left">+33.5</td><td align="left">+35.6</td><td align="left">N. by W. N.</td><td align="center">8-9</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">14 </td><td align="left">+38</td><td align="left">+33.7</td><td align="left">+35.23</td><td align="left">N.</td><td align="center">9</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">15 </td><td align="left">+42.5</td><td align="left">+34</td><td align="left">+37.2</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td><td align="center">9-10</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">16 </td><td align="left">+39</td><td align="left">+35.3</td><td align="left">+37.7</td><td align="left">N. Calm.</td><td align="center">10-7-0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">17 </td><td align="left">+46</td><td align="left">+36</td><td align="left">+42.5</td><td align="left">N.N.W. W. by N.</td><td align="center">8-5-3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">18 </td><td align="left">+43</td><td align="left">+35</td><td align="left">+39.5</td><td align="left">Vble. Calm.</td><td align="center">3-4-0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">19 </td><td align="left">+47.3</td><td align="left">+36</td><td align="left">+41.6</td><td align="left">N.W.</td><td align="center">5-6-3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">20 </td><td align="left">+55.5</td><td align="left">+41</td><td align="left">+46.9</td><td align="left">N.N.W. N.W. Calm.</td><td align="center">3-5-0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">21 </td><td align="left">+57</td><td align="left">+44</td><td align="left">+49.17</td><td align="left">N. Vble. N.N.W.</td><td align="center">4-1-3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">22 </td><td align="left">+47</td><td align="left">+40</td><td align="left">+42.5</td><td align="left">Calm. N.N.W.</td><td align="center">0-6-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">23 </td><td align="left">+49.3</td><td align="left">+38.5</td><td align="left">+43.26</td><td align="left">N.N.W. N. N. by W.</td><td align="center">8-7-8</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">24 </td><td align="left">+48</td><td align="left">+36.5</td><td align="left">+41.9</td><td align="left">N. N.W. by N.</td><td align="center">9-7-3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">25 </td><td align="left">+52</td><td align="left">+36</td><td align="left">+43.16</td><td align="left">N.W. Calm.</td><td align="center">6-4-0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">26 </td><td align="left">+43</td><td align="left">+38</td><td align="left">+40.2</td><td align="left">S.S.E. E.S.E. E.</td><td align="center">2-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">27 </td><td align="left">+51.5</td><td align="left">+40</td><td align="left">+44.17</td><td align="left">N.E. Calm.</td><td align="center">5-3-0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">28 </td><td align="left">+60</td><td align="left">+45</td><td align="left">+51.8</td><td align="left">W. W.N.W. W. by S.</td><td align="center">2-3-2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">29 </td><td align="left">+53.5</td><td align="left">+47</td><td align="left">+50.2</td><td align="left">N.</td><td align="center">4-3-1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">30 </td><td align="left">+55</td><td align="left">+38.3</td><td align="left">+46.6</td><td align="left">W. by N. N.</td><td align="center">4-8-10</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">31 </td><td align="left">+48</td><td align="left">+37.5</td><td align="left">+42.5</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td><td align="center">3-8-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">———</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">1285.4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">———</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">+41.46</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p><br /><br /></p> + +<div class="center"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[245]</a></span> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="right">Day of</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Barometer and</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">the Mon.</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Thermometer attached.</td><td align="center">Remarks on the Weather, &c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="center"><i>Barom.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Thermo.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">1 </td><td align="left">29.786</td><td align="left">+39.83</td><td align="left">b. c. p.s. a little frost during the night.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2 </td><td align="left">29.838</td><td align="left">+35.5</td><td align="left">b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3 </td><td align="left">29.986</td><td align="left">+46</td><td align="left">b. c. a beautiful night.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4 </td><td align="left">29.864</td><td align="left">+40.3</td><td align="left">o. p. o. f. p. r. o. sleet.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5 </td><td align="left">30.015</td><td align="left">+43</td><td align="left">b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6 </td><td align="left">30.124</td><td align="left">+42</td><td align="left">b. c. b. c. q. Ther. at midnight +35°; coat</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">of ice on pools where there is snow.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7 </td><td align="left">30.216</td><td align="left">+49.5</td><td align="left">b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8 </td><td align="left">30.185</td><td align="left">+46</td><td align="left">b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">9 </td><td align="left">30.216</td><td align="left">+40.3</td><td align="left">o. b. c. o.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">10 </td><td align="left">30.024</td><td align="left">+42</td><td align="left">o. b. c. o.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">11 </td><td align="left">29.828</td><td align="left">+42</td><td align="left">p. r. f. o. f. w. o. Heavy rain during</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">the night; wet fog and showers of rain.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">12 </td><td align="left">29.802</td><td align="left">+40</td><td align="left">o. f. p. r. o. w. f.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">13 </td><td align="left">29.938</td><td align="left">+39</td><td align="left">o. f. p. r. o. f. o. p. r. q.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">14 </td><td align="left">29.968</td><td align="left">+41.3</td><td align="left">r. o. b. c. o.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">15 </td><td align="left">29.905</td><td align="left">+41.7</td><td align="left">o. b. c. o. r. A great quantity of water</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">coming down N. Pole River this morning;</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">sleet.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">16 </td><td align="left">29.865</td><td align="left">+44.2</td><td align="left">p. w. s. q. o. s. b. c. Snow showers all</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">night; ther. at 6 p.m. +45°.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">17 </td><td align="left">29.902</td><td align="left">+47.2</td><td align="left">o. b. c. at 5 p.m. Ther. at +54°.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">18 </td><td align="left" colspan="2"></td><td align="left">b. c. b. c. o.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">19 </td><td align="left">29.716</td><td align="left">+48</td><td align="left">b. c. q.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">20 </td><td align="left">29.714</td><td align="left">+56</td><td align="left">b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">21 </td><td align="left">29.776</td><td align="left">+54.5</td><td align="left">b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">22 </td><td align="left">29.794</td><td align="left">+46.5</td><td align="left">o. b. c. p. r. b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">23 </td><td align="left">29.791</td><td align="left">+46</td><td align="left">d. r. b. c. p. r. b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">24 </td><td align="left">29.858</td><td align="left">+45.5</td><td align="left">b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">25 </td><td align="left">29.967</td><td align="left">+53</td><td align="left">b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">26 </td><td align="left">29.815</td><td align="left">+47.2</td><td align="left">b. c. b. c. q.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">27 </td><td align="left">29.917</td><td align="left">+49</td><td align="left">b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">28 </td><td align="left">30.038</td><td align="left">+53.5</td><td align="left">b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">29 </td><td align="left">30.113</td><td align="left">+56.8</td><td align="left">b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">30 </td><td align="left">30.017</td><td align="left">+49</td><td align="left">b. c. p.r. The barometer fell some</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">hundredths lower than when registered at</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">6 A.M., but immediately began to rise as</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">soon as the wind changed to the north.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">31 </td><td align="left">30.102</td><td align="left">+51.5</td><td align="left">b. c.</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[246]</a></span></p> + +<div class="center"> +Fort Hope, Repulse Bay.—<i>Abstract of Meteorological Journal for August, 1847.</i> +<br /><br /> +</div> + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="left">Day</td><td align="left" colspan="3">Temperature of the Atmosphere</td><td align="center"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">of the</td><td align="left" colspan="3">taken eight times in twenty-</td><td align="center">Prevailing Winds.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Month. </td><td align="left" colspan="3">four hours.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="center"><i>Highest.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Lowest.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Mean.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Direction.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Force.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left"><i>deg.m.</i></td><td align="left"><i>deg.m.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">1 </td><td align="left">+52</td><td align="left">+40</td><td align="left">+44.8</td><td align="left">N.</td><td align="center">4-6-3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2 </td><td align="left">+56</td><td align="left">+40</td><td align="left">+47.7</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td><td align="center">6-2-1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3 </td><td align="left">+49</td><td align="left">+44.5</td><td align="left">+46.2</td><td align="left">N.W. N.N.W.</td><td align="center">6-7-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4 </td><td align="left">+41</td><td align="left">+34.7</td><td align="left">+36.9</td><td align="left">N.N.W. N.</td><td align="left">9-8</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5 </td><td align="left">+54</td><td align="left">+34</td><td align="left">+62.5</td><td align="left">N. N. by W.</td><td align="left">7-6-3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6 </td><td align="left">+50</td><td align="left">+46.5</td><td align="left">+49.8</td><td align="left">Vble. W.S.W.</td><td align="center">3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7 </td><td align="left">+59.3</td><td align="left">+43.5</td><td align="left">+49.3</td><td align="left">S.W. Calm.</td><td align="center">4-5-0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8 </td><td align="left">+49.5</td><td align="left">+42</td><td align="left">+45.5</td><td align="left">Vble. N.W.</td><td align="center">1-2-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">9 </td><td align="left">+44.5</td><td align="left">+37</td><td align="left">+39.83</td><td align="left">N. N.W.</td><td align="center">8-6-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">10 </td><td align="left">+37.5</td><td align="left">+35</td><td align="left"></td><td align="left">N.</td><td align="center">9-10-8</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p><br /><br /></p> + +<div class="center"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[247]</a></span> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="right">Day of</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Barometer and</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">the Mon.</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Thermometer attached.</td><td align="center">Remarks on the Weather, &c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="center"><i>Barom.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Thermo.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">1 </td><td align="left"> 30.054</td><td align="left">+56</td><td align="left">b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2 </td><td align="left"> 30.057</td><td align="left">+56.5</td><td align="left">b. c.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3 </td><td align="left"> 30.051</td><td align="left">+48.5</td><td align="left">b. c. q. p. r.; at 5 P.M. a heavy squall</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">and showers of rain.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4 </td><td align="left"> 29.93</td><td align="left">+41.5</td><td align="left">b. c. q. p. s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5 </td><td align="left"> 30.169</td><td align="left">+46.5</td><td align="left">b. c.; frost last night.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6 </td><td align="left"> 30.124</td><td align="left">+54</td><td align="left">b. c. Ther. at 5 P.M. +62°—; all the large</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right" colspan="3"> </td><td align="left">and deep lakes still covered with ice.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7 </td><td align="left"> 30.035</td><td align="left">+61</td><td align="left">b. c. q.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8 </td><td align="left"> 29.806</td><td align="left">+54</td><td align="left">o. p. r.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">9 </td><td align="left"> 29.882</td><td align="left">+47</td><td align="left">b. c. q.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">10 </td><td align="left"> 29.732</td><td align="left">+43</td><td align="left">o. r. s. s. b. c.</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[248]</a></span></p> + +<div class="center"> +<i>Figures and Letters used for denoting the state of the +Weather and the force of the Wind, as recommended by +Captain (now Admiral) Beaufort.</i><br /><br /> +</div> + +<div class="blockquot"> + 0—Calm.<br /> + 1—Light air.<br /> + 2—Light breeze.<br /> + 3—Gentle breeze.<br /> + 4—Moderate breeze.<br /> + 5—Fresh breeze.<br /> + 6—Strong breeze.<br /> + 7—Moderate gale.<br /> + 8—Fresh gale.<br /> + 9—Strong gale.<br /> + 10—Whole gale.<br /> + 11—Storm.<br /> + 12—Hurricane.<br /> +<br /> + b.—Blue sky.<br /> + c.—Cloudy.<br /> + d.—Drizzling rain.<br /> + f.—Foggy.<br /> + g.—Gloomy dark weather.<br /> + h.—Hail.<br /> + l.—Lightning.<br /> + m.—Misty hazy atmosphere.<br /> + o.—Overcast.<br /> + p.—Passing temporary showers.<br /> + q.—Squally.<br /> + r.—Rain—continued rain.<br /> + s.—Snow.<br /> + t.—Thunder.<br /> + u.—Ugly, threatening appearance of the weather.<br /> + v.—Visibility of distant objects whether the sky be cloudy or not.<br /> + w.—Wet dew.<br /> + . —Under any letter indicates an extraordinary degree.<br /><br /> +<br /><br /> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<div class="center"> +MARCHANT SINGER & CO., <span class="smcap">Printers, Ingram-Court, Fenchurch-Street</span> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_A1" id="Page_A1">[1]</a></span></p> + +<div class="center"> +LIBRARY OF<br /> +</div> + +<h2>AUSTRALIAN TRAVELS, &c.</h2> + +<div class="center"> +PUBLISHED BY T. AND W. BOONE,<br /> +29, NEW BOND STREET.<br /> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<div class="center"> +Now ready, in 2 vols. 8vo. with numerous Plates, some coloured,<br /> +NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION<br /> +<br /> +INTO<br /> + +<h3>CENTRAL AUSTRALIA,</h3> + +BY ORDER OF HER MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT,<br /> +<span class="smcap">During the Years 1844, 5, 6</span>,<br /> +<br /> +With Notices of the Colony of South Australia.<br /> +<br /> +BY CAPTAIN CHARLES STURT,<br /> +<br /> +<span class="smcap">Late 39th Regt.<br /> +Colonial Treasurer, and<br /> +Author of "Two Expeditions into Southern Australia</span>."<br /> +</div> + +<p>The character of the far Interior of Australia had long been a most interesting +geographical problem, many imagining the centre to be occupied by a large inland +sea, others conjecturing that it was an arid desert, which opinion was further +strengthened by Mr. Eyre's unsuccessful endeavour to penetrate higher than the 29th +degree of latitude in his expedition during the years 1840 and 1. Captain Sturt, so +appropriately denominated the "Father of Australian Discovery," in consequence of +being the first traveller to explore the rivers Murray, Murrumbidgee, Bogan, and +Castlereagh, volunteered to conduct a party into the interior to determine this important +question. With the approbation of Lord Stanley, the Colonial Minister, he +accordingly started in the year 1844, and, after a series of unparalleled privations, +succeeded in reaching the centre of the Continent in a line direct north of Adelaide. +The journal of this perilous Expedition gives an account of the remarkable Stony +Desert, the bed of Lake Torrens, descriptions of the Natives and their villages, and +the discovery of several small rivers, &c.; added to which, his observations and collections +on the Natural History have since been arranged by R. Brown, Esq. and +J. Gould, Esq. in the form of an Appendix.</p> + +<p>"The details of this romantic and perilous Expedition are replete with interest. +From the numerous and lengthened expeditions he has undertaken, and the general +intelligence and scientific skill he brings to bear upon the question, we know of no +recent traveller in Australia whose opinions are entitled to more weight.—The portion +of the work which refers to the Colony of South Australia is particularly valuable to +intending emigrants."—<i>Morning Herald.</i></p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_A2" id="Page_A2">[2]</a></span></p> + + +<div class="center"> +JOURNALS OF EXPEDITIONS OF DISCOVERY<br /> +IN<br /> + +<h3>NORTH-WEST AND WESTERN AUSTRALIA,</h3> + +DURING THE YEARS 1837, 1838, and 1839,<br /> +<br /> +Under the Authority of her Majesty's Government.<br /> +<br /> +With Observations on the Agricultural and Commercial Capabilities and Prospects<br /> +of several newly-explored fertile Regions, including<br /> + +<h3>AUSTRALIND,</h3> + +and on the Moral and Physical Condition of the Aboriginal Inhabitants, &c. &c.<br /> +<br /> +<span class="smcap">By GEORGE GREY, Esq., late Captain 83rd Regt.</span><br /> +<br /> +FORMERLY GOVERNOR OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA, NOW GOVERNOR OF NEW ZEALAND.<br /> +<br /> +<i>With Two large Maps by J. Arrowsmith, and numerous Illustrations,<br /> +some coloured, in 2 vols. 8vo.</i><br /> +</div> + + +<p>"It is not with the slightest hope of satisfying curiosity, or to anticipate the interest +which the public in general, and geographers especially, always feel in enterprises of +this nature, but merely to give such a sketch of the principal features of the expedition +us may serve to direct those who are desirous of obtaining information respecting a +portion of this remarkable country—hitherto only visited by Tasman, Dampier, Baudin, +and King, and never before, we believe, penetrated by an European—to look forward +to the detailed journals of the spirited officers who had the conduct of the +expedition."—<i>From Geographical Transactions.</i></p> + +<p>A great portion of the country described in this Journal has never before been visited +by any European. The Eastern coast of Short's Bay was for the first time seen and +explored during the progress of these expeditions.</p> + +<p>"We have rarely seen a more interesting book; it is full of splendid description and +startling personal adventure; written in a plain, manly, unaffected style."—<i>Examiner.</i></p> + +<p>"It is impossible to have perused these highly interesting and important volumes +without being inspired with feelings of warm admiration for the indomitable perseverance +and heroical self-devotion of their gallant and enterprising author. Setting +aside the vastly important results of Captain Grey's several expeditions, it is hardly +possible to conceive narratives of more stirring interest than those of which his volumes +are for the most part composed."—<i>United Service Gazette.</i></p> + +<p>"We have not read such a work of Travels for many years; it unites the interest of +a romance with the permanent qualities of an historical and scientific treatise."—<i>Atlas.</i></p> + +<p>"We recommend our readers to the volumes of Captain Grey, assuring them they +will derive both amusement and instruction from the perusal."—<i>Times.</i></p> + +<p>"This is a work deserving high praise. As a book of Travels it is one of the most +interesting we remember to have met with."—<i>Westminster Review.</i></p> + +<p>"A book which should be in every lending library and book-club."—<i>Englishman's Magazine.</i></p> + +<p>"The contents of these interesting volumes will richly repay an attentive perusal."—<i>Emigration Gazette.</i></p> + +<p>"These narratives are replete with interest, and blend information and amusement +in a very happy manner."—<i>Australian Magazine.</i></p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_A3" id="Page_A3">[3]</a></span></p> + +<div class="center"> +Just published, in 1 vol. 8vo. with Plates and Woodcuts,<br /> +<br /> +JOURNAL<br /> +OF AN<br /> + +<h3>OVERLAND EXPEDITION IN AUSTRALIA,</h3> + +FROM<br /> +<br /> +<h3>MORETON BAY TO PORT ESSINGTON.</h3> + +<i>A distance of upwards of 3000 miles.</i><br /> +<br /> +BY DR. LUDWIG LEICHHARDT.<br /> +<br /> +N.B. A large 3 sheet Map of the Route by J. Arrowsmith is published, and to be +had separately in a Case, price 9<i>s.</i><br /> +<br /> +OPINIONS OF THE PRESS.<br /> +</div> + +<p>"A work of unquestionable merit and utility, and its author's name will justly stand +high upon the honourable list of able and enterprising men, whose courage, perseverance, +and literary abilities have contributed so largely to our knowledge of the +geography and productions of our distant southern colonies."—<i>Blackwood's Mag.</i></p> + +<p>"For the courage with which this lengthened and perilous journey was undertaken, +the skill with which it was directed, and the perseverance with which it was performed, +it is almost unrivalled in the annals of exploring enterprise. It richly deserves +attention."—<i>Britannia.</i></p> + +<p>"The narrative in which he relates the results of this remarkable journey, and the +extraordinary fatigues and privations endured by himself and his fellow travellers, is +not merely valuable for its facts, but full of absorbing interest as a journal of perilous +adventures."—<i>Atlas.</i></p> + +<p>"The volume before us comprises the narrative of one of the most remarkable +enterprises ever planned by man's sagacity and executed by man's courage and +endurance. To our minds there is in every point of view an inexpressible charm in +such a book as this. It not merely narrates to us the opening of a new material world +for human enterprise and scientific investigation, but it makes more clearly known to +us the wondrous powers and capacities of human nature. We recommend it to our +readers as a work scarcely less remarkable for the extraordinary enterprise recorded in +it, than for the simplicity and modesty with which it is related."—<i>Morning Herald.</i></p> + +<p>"The result of his enterprise was thoroughly successful. It has added not a little +to our existing stock of knowledge in the various departments of natural history, and +has made discovery in districts before untrodden, of an almost boundless extent of fertile +country."—<i>Examiner.</i></p> + +<p>"The most striking feature in the expedition is its successful accomplishment, which +is of itself sufficient to place Dr. L. in the first rank of travellers. How much Dr. L. +has added to geographical discovery can only be felt by an examination of the admirable +maps which accompany the volume. These have been deduced on a large scale from +the traveller's sketches by Mr. Arrowsmith, and engraved with a distinctness of execution, +and a brief fulness of descriptive remark which leave nothing to be desired."—<i>Spectator.</i></p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_A4" id="Page_A4">[4]</a></span></p> + +<div class="center"> +<i>Lately published, in 2 vols. 8vo. cloth, with 8 Maps and Charts, and 57 Illustrations</i><br /> +<br /> +BY COMMAND OF THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY.<br /> +<br /> +<h3>DISCOVERIES IN AUSTRALIA</h3> +<br /> +OF THE<br /> +<br /> +VICTORIA, ADELAIDE, ALBERT, AND FITZROY RIVERS,<br /> +AND EXPEDITIONS INTO THE INTERIOR;<br /> +DURING THE<br /> +<br /> +VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BEAGLE,<br /> +<br /> +BETWEEN THE YEARS 1837 AND 1843: ALSO<br /> +<br /> +A NARRATIVE OF THE VISITS OF H.M.S. BRITOMART,<br /> +<br /> +COMMANDER OWEN STANLEY, R.N., F.R.S.<br /> +<i>TO THE ISLANDS IN THE ARAFURA SEA</i>.<br /> +<br /> +BY CAPT. J. LORT STOKES, R.N.<br /> +</div> + + +<p>"The whole narrative is so captivating, that we expect to find the work as much in +demand at circulating libraries as at institutions of graver pretensions."—<i>Colon. Gaz.</i></p> + +<p>"We have to thank Capt. Stokes for a most valuable work, one that will place his +name by the side of Vancouver, Tasman, Dampier, and Cook."—<i>New Quar. Review.</i></p> + +<p>"The science of Navigation owes a deep debt to Captain Stokes. The information +contained in the present volumes must render them an invaluable companion to any +ship performing a voyage to that part of the world."—<i>Foreign Quarterly Review.</i></p> + +<p>"Every part of it is full of matter, both for the general and scientific reader. With +the acts of throwing the lead, taking angles, &c. lively anecdotes and pleasing ideas +are constantly associated, so that we very much doubt whether any reader will lay +aside the book, large as it is, without regret. In some parts you have all the breathless +excitement of a voyage of discovery, and sail up new rivers, and explore new +lands, while elsewhere your thoughts are directed to the tracks of commerce and +political speculation. Altogether the work is a charming specimen of nautical literature, +written in a pure, flexible, terse, and elegant style, and bespeaks everywhere in the +author a mind endued with very high moral and intellectual qualities."—<i>Fraser's Mag.</i></p> + +<p>"While these volumes must prove of great value to the maritime profession, to the +geographer, and to emigrants, they cannot fail to be perused with interest by readers +in general."—<i>Athenęum.</i></p> + +<p>"We cannot, in noticing these two ably written and interesting volumes, insist too +strongly upon their importance alike to the mariner, the geographer, and the general +reader. The author is a man of considerable merit, a shrewd observer of men and +things, and who was fitted by nature and inclination to conduct these researches into +the vast unknown continent whither he proceeded with enterprise and spirit. These +volumes contain a fund of interesting matter, and we warmly recommend this valuable +addition to our literary and scientific stores to the attention of the public."—<i>Sentinel.</i></p> + +<p>"The contents of these volumes, rich, varied and full of interest, will be their best +recommendation. For scientific accuracy, they will be highly valued by the geographer +and navigator, while they will be read for mere amusement by the public at large."—<i>Sunday Times.</i></p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_A5" id="Page_A5">[5]</a></span></p> + +<div class="center"> +THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO.<br /> +<br /> +<i>By Permission of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty.</i><br /> +<br /> +Now ready, in 2 vols. 8vo. with numerous Maps, Plates, and Woodcuts,<br /> +<br /> +<h3>NARRATIVE</h3> +<br /> +OF THE<br /> +<br /> +<h3>SURVEYING VOYAGE OF H.M.S. FLY,</h3> +<br /> +UNDER THE COMMAND OF<br /> +<br /> +CAPTAIN BLACKWOOD, R. N.<br /> +IN TORRES STRAIT, NEW GUINEA, AND OTHER ISLANDS<br /> +IN THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO;<br /> +<br /> +TOGETHER<br /> +<br /> +WITH AN EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR<br /> +<br /> +OF THE<br /> +<br /> +EASTERN PART OF THE ISLAND OF JAVA,<br /> +<br /> +DURING THE YEARS 1842 TO 1846.<br /> +<br /> +BY J. BEETE JUKES, M. A.<br /> +<br /> +NATURALIST TO THE EXPEDITION.<br /> +<br /> +OPINIONS OF THE PRESS.<br /> +</div> + + +<p>"We must congratulate Mr. Jukes on the value of his publication. Scientific +without being abstruse, and picturesque without being extravagant, he has made his +volumes a striking and graceful addition to our knowledge of countries highly interesting +in themselves, and assuming hourly importance in the eyes of the people of +England."—<i>Blackwood's Magazine.</i></p> + +<p>"To transcribe the title-page of this book is sufficient to attract public curiosity +towards it—to peruse the book itself is to be rewarded with the knowledge of a mass +of information in which complete confidence can be reposed, for, from the first page +to the last, it is apparent that the main object with Mr. Jukes is to tell all that he +knows and believes to be true, rather than to win favour from his readers by his +manner of telling it. There is not a pretty phrase, an exaggeration, nor an invention +in the two volumes of Mr. Jukes; all is plain unadorned fact, and because it is so, is +deserving, not merely of perusal, but of study. Such are the recommendations of Mr. +Jukes' pages to the public, and all who desire to see truth united with novelty will +peruse them."—<i>Morning Herald.</i></p> + +<p>"Mr. Jukes has been most judicious in his selection of topics whereon to +dwell in his narrative, and he describes with great vivacity and picturesque power. +There is much novelty and freshness in his book, and much valuable information."—<i>Daily News.</i></p> + +<p>"There are very few pages in the work which are not readable and entertaining."—<i>Morning Post.</i></p> + +<p>"Captain Blackwood having waived his right of authorship, the narrative of the +voyage has been undertaken by Mr. Jukes, favourably known by an agreeable and +informing book on Newfoundland, nor will the present work detract from his reputation. +The narrative is well planned, pleasantly written, and full of matter."—<i>Spectator.</i></p> + +<p>"A great deal was seen, and Geography, Topography, Geology, Natural History, +Ethnology, Philology, and Commerce may all be benefited by the work before us."—<i>Literary Gazette.</i></p> + +<p>"Mr. Jukes has performed his portion of the work with great ability, sparing no +pains in the working up of his abundant material, so as to make it a book of science, +as well as a book of amusement."—<i>Critic.</i></p> + +<p>"Although a professed man of science, he has described what he saw in a lucid and +untechnical manner, so that his work will be found interesting to the ordinary +reader, while it is equally valuable to the scientific. The amount of information conveyed +is very great."—<i>Midland Herald.</i></p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_A6" id="Page_A6">[6]</a></span></p> + +<div class="center"> +In 3 vols. 8vo. with Maps and numerous Plates,<br /> +<br /> +JOURNALS OF EXPEDITIONS OF DISCOVERY<br /> +<br /> +INTO<br /> +<br /> +<h3>CENTRAL AUSTRALIA,</h3> +<br /> +AND<br /> +<br /> +OVERLAND FROM ADELAIDE TO KING GEORGE'S SOUND,<br /> +<br /> +<span class="smcap">In the Years 1840-1</span>;<br /> +<br /> +<i>Sent by the Colonists of South Australia</i>,<br /> +<br /> +WITH THE SANCTION AND SUPPORT OF THE GOVERNMENT:<br /> +<br /> +INCLUDING<br /> +<br /> +An Account of the Manners and Customs of the Aborigines, and the state<br /> +of their relations with Europeans.<br /> +<br /> +BY EDWARD JOHN EYRE,<br /> +<br /> +RESIDENT MAGISTRATE, MURRAY RIVER, NOW LIEUT.-GOVERNOR OF NEW ZEALAND.<br /> +</div> + +<p>*** <i>The Founder's Medal of the Royal Geographical Society was awarded +to Mr. Eyre for the discovery of Lake Torrens, and explorations of far greater +extent in Australia than any other traveller, a large portion never having been +previously traversed by civilized man.</i></p> + + +<p>"His narrative of what he did and overcame, is more like the stirring stories of +Park and Bruce than the tame and bookish diffuseness of modern travellers. +Nothing short of a perusal of the volumes can enable our readers to appreciate this +book."—<i>Spectator.</i></p> + +<p>"We might easily extract much more from Mr. Eyre's volumes of interest to the +reader, but our limits circumscribe us. We therefore bid farewell to them, with the +recommendation to the public, not to overlook a work which, though it records +the failure of a great enterprize, is yet full of matter, which proclaims it of value."—<i>Atlas.</i></p> + +<p>"Mr. Eyre writes with the plain unaffected earnestness of the best of the old +travellers."—<i>Examiner.</i></p> + +<p>"An intensely interesting book."—<i>Tablet.</i></p> + +<p>"We must now close these interesting volumes, not, however, without expressing +our high approval both of the matter they contain, and of the manner of their compilation. +We rise from the perusal of them with a feeling similar to that which +follows the enjoyment of a pleasant work of fiction."—<i>Critic.</i></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_A7" id="Page_A7">[7]</a></span></p> + +<div class="center"> +In 1 vol. 8vo. cloth, with large Map by Arrowsmith, and numerous Illustrations,<br /> +<br /> +<h3>SOUTH AUSTRALIA AND ITS MINES,</h3> +<br /> +<i>With an Historical Sketch of the Colony, under its several Administrations,<br /> +to the Period of Captain Grey's Departure</i>.<br /> +<br /> +<span class="smcap">By FRANCIS DUTTON.</span><br /> +</div> + + +<p>"The best work which has yet issued from the press, descriptive of the resources +and management of this thriving colony."—<i>Mining Journal.</i></p> + +<p>"We have here a well-timed book. South Australia and Its Mines are now objects +of great interest; and Mr. Dutton's plain, unadorned recital, contains just what the +intending emigrant, or the mercantile inquirer, will rejoice at having placed within +his reach."—<i>Colonial Gazette.</i></p> + + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<div class="center"> +<h3>COLONIZATION;</h3> +<br /> +PARTICULARLY IN SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA,<br /> +<br /> +<span class="smcap">With some Remarks on Small Farms and Over Population.</span><br /> +<br /> +<span class="smcap">By MAJOR-GENERAL SIR CHARLES JAMES NAPIER, K.C.B.</span><br /> +<br /> +Author of "The Colonies; particularly the Ionian Islands"<br /> +<br /> +In 1 vol. 8vo. price 7<i>s.</i> boards.<br /> +</div> + +<p>"We earnestly recommend the book to all who feel an interest in the welfare of the +people."—<i>Sun.</i></p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<div class="center"> +<i>In 1 vol. post 8vo. price 5s. 6d.</i><br /> +<br /> +<h3>HINTS FOR AUSTRALIAN EMIGRANTS,</h3> +<br /> +WITH<br /> +<br /> +ENGRAVINGS AND EXPLANATORY DESCRIPTIONS<br /> +OF THE WATER RAISING WHEELS,<br /> +<br /> +AND MODES OF IRRIGATING LAND IN SYRIA, EGYPT, SOUTH AMERICA, ETC.<br /> +<br /> +BY PETER CUNNINGHAM,<br /> +<br /> +SURGEON, R.N.<br /> +<br /> +<i>Author of "Two Years in New South Wales," &c.</i><br /> +</div> + +<p>"The mere name of Mr. Cunningham affords an ample guarantee for the value of +any work to which it may be prefixed; and, "to all whom it may concern," we can +confidently recommend this remarkably neat little volume as replete with practical +information. Its numerous illustrative engravings in wood are executed in a very +superior style."—<i>Naval and Military Gazette, October 23rd, 1841.</i></p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_A8" id="Page_A8">[8]</a></span></p> + + +<div class="center"> +In 1 vol. 8vo. Map and Plates, cloth, price 12<i>s.</i><br /> +<br /> +<h3>AUSTRALIA,</h3> +<br /> +FROM PORT MACQUARIE TO MORETON BAY,<br /> +<br /> +WITH<br /> +<br /> +<i>Descriptions of the Natives, their Manners and Customs, the Geology,<br /> +Natural Productions, Fertility, and Resources of that Region</i>.<br /> +<br /> +First explored and surveyed by order of the Colonial Government.<br /> +<br /> +BY CLEMENT HODGKINSON.<br /> +</div> + +<p>"The work before our consideration contains certain details connected with the +portion of Australia, described in it, which will prove of first-rate importance to the +colonist and emigrant, since they are evidently derived from practical experience. +Throughout this unpretending little work we trace great honesty of purpose, and a +disposition to state no more than the bare facts as they presented themselves."—<i>New Quarterly Review.</i></p> + + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<div class="center"> +<i>Just published, in 2 vols. 8vo. with a large Map</i>,<br /> +<br /> +<h3>AN HISTORICAL,<br /> +POLITICAL, AND STATISTICAL ACCOUNT</h3> +<br /> +OF THE<br /> +<br /> +<h3>ISLAND OF CEYLON.</h3> +<br /> +<span class="smcap">By CHARLES PRIDHAM, Esq.</span><br /> +<br /> +AUTHOR OF<br /> +"THE MAURITIUS AND ITS DEPENDENCIES."<br /> +</div> + +<p>"——All these events will be found fully set forth in the volumes under notice, +which are certainly far superior as a history of Ceylon to any other that has yet +appeared. The reader will also find in these pages curious and original information +respecting the habits, manners and customs of the Cingalese, which he may look for +in vain in similar publications. Every portion of this valuable work teems with +information of a precise and important character."—<i>Observer.</i></p> + +<p>"Those who seek information on the subject of Ceylon, will find his book a great +storehouse of facts."—<i>Economist.</i></p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_A9" id="Page_A9">[9]</a></span></p> + +<div class="center"> +JUST PUBLISHED,<br /> +<br /> +A SERIES OF TEN COLOURED VIEWS,<br /> +<br /> +TAKEN DURING THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF HER MAJESTY'S SHIPS<br /> +<br /> +<h3>ENTERPRISE and INVESTIGATOR,</h3> +<br /> +UNDER THE COMMAND OF<br /> +<br /> +<span class="smcap">Captn. SIR JAMES C. ROSS, Kt. F. R. S.</span>,<br /> +<br /> +IN SEARCH OF<br /> +<br /> +<span class="smcap">Captn. SIR JOHN FRANKLIN, Kt. K.C.H.</span>,<br /> +<br /> +<b>Drawn by Lieut. W. H. BROWNE</b>, <span class="smcap">R.N.</span><br /> +<br /> +LATE OF H. M. S. ENTERPRISE,<br /> +<br /> +With a Summary of the Arctic Expeditions in search of Sir John Franklin.<br /> +<br /> +Dedicated, by Special Permission,<br /> +<br /> +TO THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="left">Price, in a Cover</td><td align="right">16s.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Handsomely bound </td><td align="right">21s.</td></tr> +</table> +<br /> +<br /> +LONDON.<br /> +ACKERMANN & CO., 96, STRAND,<br /> +<br /> +By Appointment to <span class="smcap">H. M. the Queen</span>, <span class="smcap">H. R. H. Prince Albert</span>,<br /> +<span class="smcap">H. R. H. the Duchess of Kent</span>, and the <span class="smcap">Royal Family</span>. +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_A10" id="Page_A10">[10]</a></span></p> +<h3>OPINIONS OF THE PRESS.</h3> + + +<p>——The extreme interest evinced by the public would be +likely to secure a welcome for these views if their execution had been +less felicitous than it is. The Party arriving at the Southern Depōt +is fearfully grand.——</p> + +<div class="right"> +<span class="smcap">Athenęum.</span><br /> +</div> + +<p>——Such are these ten extraordinary views; revealing scenes +which are enough to appal the stoutest hearts. We seem to ask of +these mountains of thick-ribbed ice "are our countrymen hidden +from us by your fantastic forms?" &c.——</p> + +<div class="right"> +<span class="smcap">Literary Gazette.</span><br /> +</div> + +<p>——We do not remember ever being so powerfully impressed +with the sublimity of portfolio drawings as with some of these views +of the <i>icy Polar Regions</i> of the trackless North.——</p> + +<div class="right"> +<span class="smcap">United Service Gazette.</span><br /> +</div> + +<p>——We do not speak of it as a work of art merely, but of +the evident truth of delineation, of local colouring, and atmospheric +effects.——</p> + +<div class="right"> +<span class="smcap">Globe.</span><br /> +</div> + +<p>——This is a work which will no doubt meet with general +patronage—giving a vivid idea of the frozen regions.——</p> + +<div class="right"> +<span class="smcap">Bell's Life.</span><br /> +</div> + +<p>——Ten of the most interesting views which scenery can +furnish.——</p> + +<div class="right"> +<span class="smcap">Atlas.</span><br /> +</div> + +<p>——Perhaps the most attractive, as well as most effective, is +<i>Noon in Mid-Winter</i>, and conveys the most solemn notions of the +<i>Polar Regions</i>. This portfolio is the novelty of the season.——</p> + +<div class="right"> +<span class="smcap">Critic.</span><br /> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 900px;"> +<a href="images/i269.jpg"> +<img src="images/i269-t.jpg" width="400" height="329" +alt="DISCOVERIES OF THE HONBLE. HUDSON'S BAY COS. ARCTIC +EXPEDITION to the NORTH of REPULSE BAY; Conducted by JOHN RAE ESQR. +1846 & 1847; Shewing in connection, the Discoveries made by PARRY, +ROSS, BACK, & the Honble. +Company's Expedition Conducted by +DEASE & SIMPSON 1838-1839. Adjusted & Drawn by John Arrowsmith +London, Pubd. Jany. 1st. 1848, by John Arrowsmith, 10 Soho Square. +Discoveries of The Honble. Hudson's Bay Cos. Expeditions are +Cold. Red Do. of Sir Edward Parry Purple Do. of Sir John Ross Yellow +Do. of Sir George Back Green" +title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption"><br /><br />DISCOVERIES OF THE<br /> +HON<sup>BLE</sup>. HUDSON'S BAY CO<sup>S</sup>. ARCTIC EXPEDITION<br /> +to the NORTH of REPULSE BAY;<br /> +Conducted by JOHN RAE ESQ<sup>R</sup>. 1846 & 1847;<br /> +Shewing in connection, the Discoveries made by<br /> +PARRY, ROSS, BACK,<br /> +& the Hon<sup>ble</sup>. Company's Expedition Conducted by<br /> +DEASE & SIMPSON 1838-1839.<br /> +Adjusted & Drawn by<br /> +John Arrowsmith<br /><br /> +London, Pub<sup>d</sup>. Jan<sup>y</sup>. 1st. 1848, by John Arrowsmith, 10 Soho Square.<br /><br /> +</span> +</div> + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="left"><b>Discoveries of The Hon<sup>ble</sup>. Hudson's Bay Co<sup>s</sup>. Expeditions are Col<sup>d</sup>. </b></td><td align="left"><b>Red</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><b>D<sup>o</sup>. of Sir Edward Parry</b></td><td align="left"><b>Purple</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><b>D<sup>o</sup>. of Sir John Ross</b></td><td align="left"><b>Yellow</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><b>D<sup>o</sup>. of Sir George Back</b></td><td align="left"><b>Green</b></td></tr> +</table> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<div class="tnote"> +<h3>Transcriber's Note</h3> + +<p>Obvious punctuation errors were corrected.</p> + +<p>Click on the maps to see high-resolution images.</p> + +<p>Hyphen removed: a[-]head (p. 25), along[-]shore (p. 11), lime[-]stone +(pp. 107, 127), North[-]pole river (Chapter V contents).</p> + +<p>Hyphen added: snow[-]drift (pp. 160, 166).</p> + +<p>The following words appear with and without hyphens with similar +frequency and have not been changed: Chief[-]Factor, day[-]light, foot[-]marks, +in[-]doors, rein[-]deer.</p> + +<p>Native names have not been changed and appear with inconsistent +hyphenation.</p> + +<p>Chapter V contents: "North-pole" changed to "North Pole".</p> + +<p>Pp. vi, 61: "chace" changed to "chase" (Produce of the chase).</p> + +<p>P. viii: "CHAP. VIII" changed to "CHAPTER VIII".</p> + +<p>P. 11: "Canada mithatch" changed to "Canada nuthatch".</p> + +<p>P. 17: "excursons" changed to "excursions" (by making excursions).</p> + +<p>P. 30: "direcrection" changed to "direction" (east and west direction).</p> + +<p>P. 66: "Ivitchuck" changed to "Ivitchuk".</p> + +<p>P. 68: "lide" changed to "line" (line of declination).</p> + +<p>P. 113: added "to" (next to my skin).</p> + +<p>P. 136: "threugh" changed to "through" (the late journey safety +through).</p> + +<p>P. 163: "dissappeared" changed to "disappeared" (in many places, +entirely disappeared).</p> + +<p>P. 201: "fluffly" changed to "fluffy" (much shorter and less fluffy).</p> + +<p>P. 202: "Seiurius" changed to "Seiurus".</p> + +<p>P. 209: "p." inserted before "200" in item 56.</p> + +<p>Pp. 218-223: The table entitled "Dip of the needle and force of magnetic +attraction..." was reformatted and abbreviations were used to fit within +a reasonable width.</p> + +<p>Pp. 224-247: Each pair of pages is one table but the two pages are +presented one after the other. An additional column with the days of the +month has been added to the second page of each pair.</p> + +<p>P. 231: "Speculę" changed to "Spiculę" (Spiculę of snow falling).</p> + +<p>P. 235: The digits in the seventh entry are missing.</p> + +<p>P. 239: word following "colourless" is missing.</p> + +<p>Ad p. 4: "57 Illustration" changed to "57 Illustrations".</p> + +<p>Ad p. 5: "thau" changed to "than" (rather than to win favour).</p> +</div> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION TO THE SHORES OF THE ARCTIC SEA IN 1846 AND 1847***</p> +<p>******* This file should be named 39917-h.txt or 39917-h.zip *******</p> +<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> +<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/9/9/1/39917">http://www.gutenberg.org/3/9/9/1/39917</a></p> +<p> +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed.</p> + +<p> +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Narrative of an Expedition to the Shores of the Arctic Sea in 1846 and 1847 + + +Author: John Rae + + + +Release Date: June 5, 2012 [eBook #39917] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION TO THE +SHORES OF THE ARCTIC SEA IN 1846 AND 1847*** + + +E-text prepared by Moti Ben-Ari and the Online Distributed Proofreading +Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made available by +Internet Archive (http://archive.org). The maps were scanned by the +University of Manitoba Libraries (http://umanitoba.ca/libraries) + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 39917-h.htm or 39917-h.zip: + (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/39917/39917-h/39917-h.htm) + or + (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/39917/39917-h.zip) + + + Images of the original pages are available through + Internet Archive. See + http://archive.org/details/cihm_39502 + + +Transcriber's note: + + A single character following a carat is superscripted + (example: ESQ^R). When multiple characters are + superscripted they are enclosed by curly brackets + (example: Hon^{ble}). + + + + + +NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION TO THE SHORES OF THE ARCTIC SEA +IN 1846 AND 1847. + +by + +JOHN RAE, + +Hudson Bay Company's Service, Commander of the Expedition. + +With Maps. + + + + + + + +London: +T. & W. Boone, 29, New Bond Street. +1850. + +Marchant Singer and Co., Printers, Ingram-Court, +Fenchurch-Street. + + + + + TO + SIR GEORGE SIMPSON, + _Governor-in-Chief of Rupert's Land_, + THE ZEALOUS PROMOTER OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY, + THIS VOLUME IS INSCRIBED + AS A TRIBUTE OF RESPECT AND REGARD + BY THE AUTHOR. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + PAGE + CHAPTER I. + + Object and plan of the Expedition--Equipment at York + Factory--Boats--Crews--Articles useful in an Arctic + Voyage--Breaking up of the ice in Hayes and Nelson + Rivers--Departure from York Factory--Progress retarded by the + ice--First night at sea--Reflections--Rupert's Creek--Unbroken + fields of ice--Broad River--Description of the Coast--Double + Cape Churchill--Open sea to the north and north-west--Arrive at + Churchill--White whales--Mode of catching them--Sir George + Simpson's instructions--Stock of provisions 1 + + CHAPTER II. + + Depart from Churchill--A gale--Anchor in Knap's Bay--Land on an + island--Esquimaux graves--Visited by Esquimaux--A large river + running into Knap's Bay--Nevill's Bay--Corbet's Inlet--Rankin's + Inlet--Cape Jalabert--Greenland whales seen--Chesterfield + Inlet--Walruses--Cape Fullerton--Visited by an + Esquimaux--Reefs--Cape Kendall seen--Ice packed against the + shore--Take shelter in an excellent harbour--River + traced--Seals--Gale--Ice driven off--Direction of the tides + reversed--Whale Point--Many whales seen--Again stopped by the + pack--Wager River estuary--Ice drifts--Eddy currents--No second + opening into Wager River seen--Enter Repulse Bay--Interview with + Esquimaux--No intelligence of Sir John Franklin 19 + + CHAPTER III. + + Receive a visit from a female party--Their persons and dress + described--Crossing the Isthmus--Drag one of the boats up a + stream--Succession of rapids--North Pole Lake--Find a plant fit + for fuel--Christie Lake--Flett Portage--Corrigal + Lake--Fish--Deer-scaring stones--White wolf--Stony + Portage--View of the sea--Exploring party sent in advance--Their + report--Long Portage--Difficult tracking--Miles Lake--Muddy + Lake--Rich pasturage and great variety of flowers on its + banks--Marmot burrows--Salt Lake--Visit Esquimaux + tents--Discouraging report of the state of the ice--Esquimaux + chart--Reach the sea--Ross inlet--Point Hargrave--Cape Lady + Pelly--Stopped by the ice--Put ashore--Find a sledge made of + ship-timber--Thick fog--Wolves--Walk along the shore--Remains of + musk-cattle and rein-deer--Nature of the coast--Danger from the + ice--Irregular rise of the tide--Deer on the ice--Fruitless + efforts to proceed northward--Cross over to Melville + Peninsula--Gale--Again stopped by the ice--Dangerous position of + the boat--Return to starting point--Meeting with our Esquimaux + friends at Salt Lake--Deer begun to migrate southward--Walk + across the isthmus to Repulse Bay 38 + + CHAPTER IV. + + State of things at Repulse Bay--Determine to discontinue the + survey till the spring--Reasons--Party sent to bring over the + boat--Fix on a site for winter residence--Ptarmigan--Laughing + geese--Eider and king ducks--Visits of natives too + frequent--Return of the party sent for the boat--Report the bay + more closely packed than before--Preparations for + wintering--Fort Hope built--Proceed to North Pole and Christie + Lakes to look out for fishing stations--Purchase dogs--Wariness + of the deer--Flocks of geese pass southward--Blue-winged and + snow-geese--Their habits--Snow-storm--Its effects--Return to + Fort Hope--Daily routine--Signs of winter--Deer + numerous--Quantity of game killed--Provision-store built of + snow--Great fall of snow--Effects of the cold--Adventure with a + deer--Visited by a party of natives--Their report of the ice + westward of Melville Peninsula--An island said to be + wooded--Produce of the chase in October--Temperature--Two + observatories built of snow--Band of wolves--A party caught in a + snow-storm--Esquimaux theory of the heavenly bodies--Temperature + of November--Diminished supply of provisions 61 + + CHAPTER V. + + Winter arrangements completed--Learn to build + snow-houses--Christmas-day--North Pole River frozen to the + bottom--1st January--Cheerfulness of the men--Furious + snow-storm--Observatories blown down--Boat buried under the + snow--Ouligbuck caught in the storm--Dog attacked by a + wolf--Party of natives take up their residence near Fort + Hope--Esquimaux mentioned by Sir John Ross known to them--Boat + dug out of the snow--A runaway wife--Deer begin to migrate + northward--A wolf-chase--First deer of the season + shot--Difficulty of deer-hunting in spring--Dimensions of an + Esquimaux canoe--Serious accident to Ouligbuck--A + conjuror--Preparations for the journey + northward--Temperature--Aurora Borealis 81 + + CHAPTER VI. + + Set out for the north--Equipment of the + party--Snow-blindness--Musk-ox--Mode of killing it--Reach the + coast near Point Hargrave--Ice rough along shore--Pass Cape Lady + Pelly--Unfavourable weather--Slow progress--Put on short + allowance--River Ki-ting-nu-yak--Pemmican placed _en + cache_--Cape Weynton--Colvile Bay--High hill--Dogs giving + way--Work increased--Snow-house-building--Point Beaufort--Point + Siveright--Keith Bay--Cape Barclay--Another _cache_--Leave the + coast and proceed across the land--River A-ma-took--Dogs knocked + up--Lake Ballenden--Harrison islands--Party left to procure + provisions--Proceed with two of the men--Cape Berens--Relative + effects of an eastern and western aspect--Halkett Inlet--Reach + Lord Mayor's Bay--Take formal possession of the + country--Commence our return to winter quarters--Friendly + interview with the natives--Obtain supplies of provisions from + them--View of Pelly Bay--Trace the shore to the eastward--Travel + by night--Explore the coast of Simpson's Peninsula--Arrive at + Fort Hope--Occurrences during the absence of the exploring + party--Character of the Esquimaux Ivitchuk 97 + + CHAPTER VII. + + Preparations for exploring the coast of Melville + Peninsula--Outfit--Leave Fort Hope--Pass over numerous + lakes--Guide at fault--Dease Peninsula--Arrive at the + sea--Fatigue party sent back to Fort Hope--Barrier of + ice--Lefroy Bay--Large island named after the Prince of + Wales--Detained by stormy weather--Short allowance--Cape Lady + Simpson--Selkirk Bay--Snow knee-deep--Capes Finlayson and + Sibbald--Deer shot--A cooking scene--Favourite native + relish--Again stopped by stormy weather--Cape M'Loughlin--Two + men left to hunt and fish--Cape Richardson--Chain of + islands--Garry Bay--Prince Albert range of hills--Cape + Arrowsmith--Coast much indented--Baker Bay--Provisions + fail--Proceed with one man--Cape Crozier--Parry Bay--Cape + Ellice, the farthest point seen--Take possession--Commence our + return--No provisions procured by the men left behind--Short + commons--Flock of cranes--Snow-blindness--Arrive at Repulse Bay 137 + + CHAPTER VIII. + + Occurrences at Fort Hope during the absence of the exploring + party--Remove from winter quarters to tents--Sun seen at + midnight--Build an oven and bake bread--Esquimaux method of + catching seals--A concert--Lateness of the summer--A native + salmon-wear--Salmon spear--Boulders on the surface of the + ice--Visited by a native from the Ooglit Islands--His report of + occurrences at Igloolik--Indolence of the natives--Ice breaking + up--Halkett's air-boat--A storm--The ice dispersed--Prepare for + sea 165 + + CHAPTER IX. + + Voyage from Repulse Bay to York Factory 178 + + APPENDIX. + + List of Mammalia 199 + ---- Birds 201 + ---- Fishes 204 + ---- Plants 205 + + Specimens of Rocks 215 + + Dip of the needle and force of magnetic attraction at various + stations along the west shore of Hudson's Bay, and at Fort Hope, + Repulse Bay 218 + + Abstract of Meteorological Journal from September, 1846, to + August, 1847 224 + + Figures and Letters used for denoting the state of the weather, + &c. 248 + + + + +[Illustration: _The Discoveries made by The Hon^{ble}. Hudson's Bay +C^{os}. Arctic Expeditions, between the Years 1837 & 1847. are Coloured +Red_ + + NORTHERN AMERICA + + DISCOVERIES + of the + HON^{BLE}. HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY'S + ARCTIC EXPEDITION + in + 1838 & 1839. + +_John Arrowsmith_] + + + + + NARRATIVE, + ETC. ETC. + + +CHAPTER I. + + Object and plan of the Expedition--Equipment at York + Factory--Boats--Crews--Articles useful in an Arctic + Voyage--Breaking up of the ice in Hayes and Nelson + Rivers--Departure from York Factory--Progress retarded by the + ice--First night at sea--Reflections--Rupert's Creek--Unbroken + fields of ice--Broad River--Description of the coast--Double + Cape Churchill--Open sea to the north and north west--Arrive at + Churchill--White whales--Mode of catching them--Sir George + Simpson's instructions--Stock of provisions. + + +It is already well known to those who take an interest in Arctic +discovery, that the Hudson's Bay Company intended fitting out an +expedition in 1840, which was to have proceeded to the northern shores +of America by Back's Great Fish River, for the purpose of tracing the +coast between the river Castor and Pollux of Dease and Simpson, and the +Strait of the Fury and Hecla, as it was then very generally supposed +that Boothia was an island. + +The party was to have been commanded by that able and enterprising +traveller, Mr. Thomas Simpson, whose indefatigable exertions, in +conjunction with those of Mr. Dease, had during the three preceding +years effected so much; but his untimely and melancholy fate prevented +that intention from being carried into effect, and the survey of the +Arctic coast was discontinued for a few years. + +When it was determined that the survey should be resumed, Sir George +Simpson, Governor-in-Chief of the Company's territories, informed me +that a boat expedition to the Arctic Sea was again contemplated, at the +same time doing me the honour of proposing that I should take command of +it,--a charge which I most joyfully accepted. + +The plan of the expedition was different from any that had hitherto been +adopted, and was entirely of Sir George Simpson's forming. Its leading +features were as follows:--A party of thirteen persons, including two +Esquimaux interpreters, was to leave Churchill in two boats at the +disruption of the ice, and coast along the western shore of Hudson's Bay +to the northward as far as Repulse Bay; or, if thought necessary, to the +Strait of the Fury and Hecla. From this latter point the shore of the +Arctic Sea was to be traced to Dease and Simpson's farthest discoveries +eastward; or, if Boothia Felix should be found to form part of the +American continent, up to some place surveyed by Captain or Commander +(now Sir John and Sir James C.) Ross. + +I started from the Sault de S^{te.} Marie in the latter part of July, +1845, in a canoe which I took on with me as far as Red River, where this +frail vessel was changed for a boat, which is better adapted for +traversing large sheets of water. We had rather a stormy passage to +Norway House, at which place five men were engaged for the expedition; +and having brought two with me from the southern department, I required +only three more, who I knew could easily be procured at York Factory. + +At first there was some difficulty in getting volunteers, as a report +had got abroad (set on foot, I believe, by either M'Kay or Sinclair, +guides and steersmen with the expeditions under Sir G. Back and Dease +and Simpson), that the whole party, if not starved for want of food, +would run the risk of being frozen to death for want of fuel. + +After leaving Norway House our progress was slow, the water being very +shallow, and our boat rather a heavy drag, for a single crew, over the +portages. Two Indians who were engaged, the one to go as far as Oxford +House, and the other all the way to York Factory, stipulated that they +should do no work on Sunday; to which I readily agreed, thinking that +they acted conscientiously; and this I really believe to have been the +case with one; but I had some doubts about the sincerity of the other, +when I learned that, before leaving us, he had stolen a shirt and +blanket from one of the boat's crew. + +We arrived at York Factory on the 8th October, during a strong gale of +north-east wind with heavy rain and sleet, which had thoroughly drenched +us all; in addition to which the men were so bedaubed with mud whilst +dragging the boats along shore, that scarcely a feature of their faces +could be distinguished. + +On landing I was most kindly welcomed by Chief-Factor Hargrave and the +other gentlemen of the Factory. + +There was little probability of our being able to get to Churchill by +water this autumn, nevertheless the boats that had been built for the +expedition were launched and put in order for sea. They were fine +looking and strong clinker-built craft, 22 feet long by 7 feet 6 inches +broad, each capable of carrying between fifty and sixty pieces of goods +of 90 lbs. per piece. They were each rigged with two lug sails, to which +a jib was afterwards added; under which, with a strong breeze of wind, +they were found to work admirably. They were named the "North Pole" and +the "Magnet." + +We had a continuance of northerly winds until the ice began to form on +the river, when it would have been highly imprudent to attempt going +along the coast, and I did not wish to run the risk of having our boats +stranded, which would have been a very likely occurrence had we put to +sea. There was, therefore, nothing to be done but to haul our boats up +again; nor did this cause me much disappointment, as I felt pretty +certain that, in the following spring, we could advance as fast to the +northward as the season of the breaking up of the ice did; and this +supposition I afterwards found to be correct. + +My attention was now turned to the proper equipment of my party, in +which I was most ably assisted by Chief-Factor Hargrave and my friend, +Mr. W. Mactavish, who was in charge of York during the temporary absence +of the former gentleman; so that, with keeping a meteorological +journal--in which the temperature of the air, height of the barometer, +force and direction of the winds, and state of the weather were +registered eight times a day--and taking observations for latitude, +longitude, variation of the compass, and dip of the needle, &c., I had +occupation enough on my hands. + +Among other articles which I thought might be useful, were a small +sheet-iron stove for each boat, a set of sheet-iron lamps for burning +oil after the Esquimaux fashion, some small kettles (commonly called +conjurors) having a small basin and perforated tin stand for burning +alcohol, a seine net, and four small windows, each of two double panes +of glass. An oiled canvass canoe was made, and we also had one of +Halkett's air boats, large enough to carry three persons. This last +useful and light little vessel ought to form part of the equipment of +every expedition. + +On the 30th April, 1846, that harbinger of spring, the Canada goose, was +seen; and so early as the 5th May the ice in Hayes' River commenced +breaking up; but it was more than a month after this date before the +Nelson or North River opened. At length, on the 12th June, it was +reported that a passage was practicable, and everything was got in +readiness for making a start on the following day. + +The crews of the boats were divided as follows:-- + + NORTH POLE. + + John Rae. + John Corrigal, Orkneyman, Steersman. + Richard Turner, half-breed, Middleman. + Edward Hutchison, Orkneyman, ditto. + Hilard Mineau, Canadian, ditto. + Nibitabo, Cree Indian, ditto and hunter. + + MAGNET. + + George Flett, Orkneyman, Steersman. + John Folster, ditto, Middleman. + William Adamson, Zetlander, ditto. + Jacques St. Germain, Canadian, ditto. + Peter Matheson, Highlander, ditto. + +All these men had the same wages, namely, L40 per annum, with the +promise of a gratuity in the event of good conduct. + +The lading of each of the boats, including the men's luggage, amounted +to about seventy pieces; and with this cargo they were quite deep enough +in the water and very much lumbered--so much so that, to allow room for +pulling, a quantity of the cargo had to be displaced. + +On the 13th June, after bidding farewell to our kind friends at York, +and receiving a salute of seven guns and three hearty cheers, we set +sail with a light air of fair wind. We had not proceeded more than a +mile down the river, when the wind chopped round directly in our teeth, +and blew a gale. As I could not think of turning back, we were speedily +under close-reefed sails, turning to windward; the wind and tide were +going in opposite directions, and there was an ugly cross sea running, +which caused us to ship much water over both the lee and weather side. +After a couple hours of this work we gained sufficient offing to clear +the shallows, which lie for some miles out from the point of Marsh, +(this being the name of the N.E. extremity of York Island), and stood +across towards the north shore of the Nelson River. The men in the +Magnet, having erroneously carried on too great a press of canvass, were +left a mile or two astern. As we advanced the wind gradually abated, and +we soon fell in with quantities of ice driving along with the current, +through which we had much difficulty in finding a passage. + +We made the land near Sam's Creek; and it being now calm, and flood tide +strong against us, we cast anchor close to the shore between 9 and 10 +o'clock. The night was beautiful, and, as all my men had gone to sleep, +nothing interrupted the stillness around but the occasional blowing of a +white whale, the rather musical note of the "caca wee" (long-tailed +duck), or the harsh scream of the great northern diver. Yet I could not +close my eyes. Nor was this wakefulness caused by the want of comfort in +my bed, which I must own was none of the most inviting, as it consisted +of a number of hard-packed bags of flour, over which a blanket was +spread, so that I had to accommodate myself in the best way I could to +the inequalities of the surface. To a man who had slept soundly in all +sorts of places--on the top of a round log, in the middle of a swamp, as +well as on the wet shingle beach, such a bed was no hardship; but +thoughts now pressed upon me which during the bustle and occupation of +preparation had no time to intrude. I could not conceal from myself that +many of my brother officers, men of great experience in the Indian +country, were of opinion that we ran much risk of starving; little was +known of the resources of that part of the country to which we were +bound; and all agreed that there was little chance of procuring fuel, +unless some oil could be obtained from the natives. Yet the novelty of +our route, and of our intended mode of operations, had a strong charm +for me, and gave me an excitement which I could not otherwise have felt. + +14th.--As there were great quantities of ice along the shore to the +northward of us, I let the boats take the ground, so that this morning +they were high and dry on the mud, the water being a mile or two outside +of us, and we as far from the high-water mark. + +As the Goose Hunt House (a small hut where one of the Company's servants +and some Indians go every spring and autumn to shoot and salt geese,) +was at no great distance, I visited it, but found that the people had +taken their departure for the Factory--a certain sign that the geese and +ducks had gone farther north. Numbers of the Hudsonian godwit (_limosa +Hudsonica_) were flying about, apparently intending to breed in the +neighbourhood. + +The boats floated at a quarter after 10 A.M., and we got under weigh +with a fine light breeze from the S.E. The temperature of the air was +62 deg. and the water 40 deg. There were many pieces of ice floating +about, and a great quantity close-packed about half a mile outside. At +mid-day we were in latitude 57 deg. 25' 93" N. After running by Massey's +patent log for 10-3/4 miles north, we were stopped by ice at a few +minutes after 1 P.M., when we made fast to a large grounded mass, which +protected us from the smaller floating pieces as long as the tide was +ebbing; but as soon as the flood made, it required all our exertions to +prevent the boats being damaged. We now found the great advantage of +some sheet copper that had been nailed on their bows, as it completely +protected them from being chafed. At 11 next forenoon, finding our +situation rather dangerous, as soon as the tide flowed far enough, we +pushed inshore, and beached the boats on a fine smooth surface of mud +and gravel. With the exception of a heavy shower of rain at 6 A.M., the +weather continued fine all day, but the sky was too cloudy to permit any +observations to be made. + +On the 16th we advanced only 1-1/2 miles. The temperature of the air 42 +deg. and the water 34 deg. By an azimuth of the sun the variation of the +compass, 10 deg. 54' east, was obtained. + +As it was only at, or near, high-water that we could make any progress, +we crept along shore about four miles during the morning's tide, and in +the evening we put into Rupert's Creek, which afforded us good shelter, +and also fresh water, of which we were getting rather short. A fresh +breeze from the east brought in much ice, which completely blockaded our +harbour. The morning of the 18th was very fine, but the easterly wind +still continued, and such was the effect produced by it that not a spot +of open water was to be seen. The latitude 57 deg. 32' 18" was observed, +and an observation of the sun's azimuth yesterday gave the variation of +the compass 9 deg. 56' E. Some partridges (_tetrao saliceti_), ducks, +and a flat-billed phalarope (_P. fulicarius_) were shot. + +19th.--The ice having become somewhat more open during the night, we +left the creek at 4 A.M., and ran 32-1/2 miles before a fine breeze of +S.E. wind, through lanes of open water, as nearly as possible in a N.N.E. +course. Large unbroken fields, on which numbers of seals were lying, now +opposed our further progress. At high-water next morning, we set forward +among ice so closely packed, that we were obliged to open a passage by +pushing aside the smaller pieces; we thus gained between two and three +miles and reached Broad River. We lay here during the remainder of the +day, which was too cloudy for a meridian observation; but in the evening +an amplitude of the sun gave variation 12 deg. 19' east. The dip of the +needle was 84 deg. 46' 4". + +The morning's tide of the 21st advanced us nearly three miles. Our new +position was found to be in latitude 58 deg. 9' 51" N.; the latitude of +Broad River must therefore be 58 deg. 7' N. A strong breeze of S.S.W. +wind had driven out some of the ice, so that, with the aid of sails and +poles, we gained 12 miles more northing in the evening. + +From the 22nd to the 24th we continued to creep alongshore, but our +progress was very slow, 19 miles being, at the highest estimate, as much +as we gained. We were, however, killing ducks of various kinds, and +collecting eggs enough to keep us in food. A deer was also shot by +Nibitabo on the 22nd, and on the 24th I procured from a high mound of +ice, where it was feeding, what appeared to be a Canada nuthatch (_sitta +Canadensis_). The skin was preserved, and is with other specimens in the +Honourable Hudson's Bay Company's warehouse in London. + +On the 25th we lay all day in a small creek, which afforded us a safe +harbour. + +The wind, which had yesterday blown a strong gale from the N.E., shifted +round to W., which gave us some hopes of an opening to seaward. In the +evening much ice drove out with the ebb. The latitude of our position by +reduction to the meridian was 58 deg. 31' N. + +26th.--This morning we were fortunate enough, after a great deal of +trouble, to get the boats into comparatively open water, and as the wind +was moderate from E.S.E. we threaded our way, through narrow channels +and openings, until opposite Cape Churchill. At 3 P.M. we doubled the +cape, and to our great joy found an open sea to the north and north west +of it. + +The whole of the coast between Nelson River and Cape Churchill is low +and flat, with not a single rock in situ. There are, however, a number +of boulder stones of granite, and debris of limestone, to be seen. + +There are numerous lakelets near the shore, the banks of which form the +favourite breeding places of the Canada goose, the mallard, pintail, +teal, scaup, and long-tailed ducks, great northern diver,[1] and the +Arctic tern. The phalaropus hyperboreus is also very numerous--so much +so that I could have shot twenty in half-an-hour. The female of this +phalarope and of the P. fulicarius is considerably larger, and has much +finer markings on its plumage, than the male, the colours being much +brighter. + +As we sailed along shore to the westward, the land gradually became more +high and rocky, and there were many ridges of stones lying off several +miles from the beach, among which we had some trouble in threading our +way, the navigation being rendered still more difficult by a thick fog. + +We arrived at the mouth of Churchill River at 3 A.M. on the 27th, but as +the tide was ebbing we could not stem the current, so that we did not +reach the Company's Fort, situated on the west bank of the river and +about five miles up, until half-past six, when I was most kindly +welcomed by my friend Mr. Sinclair, chief trader, the gentleman in +charge, who had not expected to see us so early. + +My letter of instructions had not yet arrived, so that we took advantage +of the delay thus occasioned to have the boats unloaded, some slight +repairs effected, and the cargoes examined and dried. I determined on +leaving here some tobacco, salt, and one or two other articles that were +not absolutely essential, supplying their place with pemmican and flour. +Some observations for the dip of the needle gave mean dip 84 deg. 47' 3". +The variation of the compass 12 deg. 29' east, and the latitude of the +Establishment 58 deg. 44' 12" were found, and the mean time of 70 +vertical vibrations of the needle in the magnetic meridian was 148". + +The people of the fort were busy killing white whales, great numbers of +which come up the river with the flood tide. The mode of taking them is +very simple. A boat, having a harpooner both at bow and stern, sails out +among the shoal, and being painted white, it does not alarm them; they +approach quite close, and are thus easily struck. When harpooned they do +not run any great distance in one direction, but dart about much in the +way that a trout does when hooked. + +On the evening of the 4th July the anxiously expected instructions +arrived from Red River, via York Factory. The following is a copy of +them:-- + + "_Red River Settlement_, + "15th June, 1846. + + "SIR, + + "You are aware that the grand object of the expedition which has + been placed under your direction is to complete the geography of + the northern shore of America, by surveying the only section of + the same that has not yet been traced, namely, the deep bay, as + it is supposed to be, stretching from the western extremity of + the Straits of the Fury and Hecla to the eastern limit of the + discoveries of Messrs. Dease and Simpson. + + "2. For this purpose you will proceed from Churchill with the + two boats, and twelve men that have been selected for this + arduous and important service, losing not a moment, at least on + your outward voyage, in examining such part of the coast as has + already been visited and explored. In a word, you will reach, + with as little loss of time as possible, the interesting scene + of your exclusive labours. + + "3. In prosecuting the survey in question, you will, as a matter + of course, endeavour to ascertain as accurately as circumstances + may permit, without occasioning any serious delay, the latitudes + and longitudes of all the most remarkable points within the + range of your operations, and also the general bearing and + extent of all the intermediate portions of coast, embodying the + whole at the same time in the form of a chart, or rather of the + draft of a chart, from day to day. + + "4. But in addition to this, your principal and essential task, + you will devote as much of your attention as possible to various + subordinate and incidental duties. You will do your utmost, + consistently with the success of your main object, to attend to + botany and geology; to zoology in all its departments; to the + temperature both of the air and of the water; to the conditions + of the atmosphere and the state of the ice; to winds and + currents; to the soundings as well with respect to bottom as + with respect to depth; to the magnetic dip and the variation of + the compass; to the aurora borealis and the refraction of light. + You will also, to the best of your opportunities, observe the + ethnographical peculiarities of the Esquimaux of the country; + and in the event of your wintering within the Arctic Circle, you + will be careful to notice any characteristic features or + influences of the long night of the high latitudes in question. + These particulars, and such others as may suggest themselves to + you on the spot, you will record fully and precisely in a + journal, to be kept, as far as practicable, from day to day, + collecting at the same time any new, curious, or interesting + specimens, in illustration of any of the foregoing heads. + + "5. In order to provide against the probable necessity of + requiring two seasons for your operations, you will take with + you all the provisions that your boats can carry, with such + shooting, hunting, and fishing tackle as may enable you to + husband your supplies. I need hardly mention medicines and warm + clothing among the necessaries of your voyage, for, in full + reliance on your professional zeal and ability, I place the + health of your people, under Providence, entirely in your hands. + + "6. In the event of wintering in the country, you will cultivate + the most friendly relations with the natives, taking care, + however, to guard against surprise. For this purpose you will + repeatedly and constantly inculcate on your men, collectively + and individually, the absolute necessity of mildness and + firmness, of frankness and circumspection. + + "7. If, in the event of your being unable to accomplish the + whole of your task in one season, you see ground for doubting + whether the resources of the country are competent to maintain + the whole of your people, you will in that case send back a part + of them to Churchill with one of the boats. For the remaining + part of your men you cannot fail to find subsistence, animated + as you and they are by a determination to fulfil your mission at + the cost of danger, fatigue, and privation. Wherever the natives + can live, I can have no fears with respect to you, more + particularly as you will have the advantage of the Esquimaux, + not merely in your actual supplies, but also in the means of + recruiting and renewing them. + + "8. During the winter you will pursue the various objects of the + expedition by making excursions with a due regard, of course, to + safety, on the snow or on the ice; and at the close of your + second season, after having accomplished the whole of your task, + you will return according to your own discretion, either by your + original course or by Back's Great Fish River, keeping + constantly in view, till you reach Churchill or Great Slave + Lake, the general spirit of these your instructions. + + "9. In conclusion, let me assure you that we look confidently to + you for the solution of what may be deemed the final problem in + the geography of the northern hemisphere. The eyes of all who + take an interest in the subject are fixed on the Hudson's Bay + Company; from us the world expects the final settlement of the + question that has occupied the attention of our country for two + hundred years; and your safe and triumphant return, which may + God in His mercy grant, will, I trust, speedily compensate the + Hudson's Bay Company for its repeated sacrifices and its + protracted anxieties. + + "I remain, + "Sir, &c. + + (Signed) "G. SIMPSON." + + "John Rae, Esq. + "Churchill, + "Hudson's Bay." + +The boats were loaded during the night, and at 6 A.M. were sent down to +the old stone fort at the mouth of the river, where they were to wait +for me a few hours. Besides an abundant supply of ammunition, guns, +nets, twines, &c. for our own use, and various articles for presents and +to barter with the Esquimaux, we had on board + + 20 bags pemmican, about 90 lbs. each, + 2 ditto grease, " 90 lbs. " + 25 ditto flour, each 1 cwt. + 4 gallons of alcohol for fuel; + +with a good stock of tea, sugar, and chocolate, but only four gallons of +brandy and two gallons of port wine, as I was well aware of the bad +effects of spirits in a cold climate. Considering that we were to be +absent fifteen or perhaps twenty-seven months, our quantity of +provisions (amounting in all to little more than four months' +consumption at full allowance) was not very great. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[1] The male and female of the northern diver (_colymbus glacialis_) +resemble one another so much that it is very difficult to distinguish +the one from the other. The immature bird has often been described by +ornithologists as the female. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + Depart from Churchill--A gale--Anchor in Knap's Bay--Land on an + island--Esquimaux graves--Visited by Esquimaux--A large river + running into Knap's Bay--Nevill's Bay--Corbet's Inlet--Rankin's + Inlet--Cape Jalabert--Greenland whales seen--Chesterfield + Inlet--Walruses--Cape Fullerton--Visited by an + Esquimaux--Reefs--Cape Kendall seen--Ice packed against the + shore--Take shelter in an excellent harbour--River + traced--Seals--Gale--Ice driven off--Direction of the tides + reversed--Whale Point--Many whales seen--Again stopped by the + pack--Wager River estuary--Ice drifts--Eddy currents--No second + opening into Wager River seen--Enter Repulse Bay--Interview with + Esquimaux--No intelligence of Sir John Franklin. + + +Having taken on board Ouligbuck and one of his sons as Esquimaux +interpreters, and bid adieu to Mr. Sinclair, who, during our stay, had +omitted nothing that could in any way tend to the comfort of the party, +we set sail at 11 o'clock on the 5th July with a light air of N.N.E. +wind, and stood to the westward across Button's Bay. The weather was +fine, and to enliven the scene numbers of white whales were seen +sporting about, and sometimes coming within a few yards of the boats. +The men were all in excellent health and spirits, there not being a +melancholy look nor a desponding word to be seen or heard among them. + +At 3.30 P.M. we passed Pauk-a-thau-kis-cow River, and the wind having +freshened and shifted round to the S.E. we had run upwards of forty +miles before 10 o'clock. The temperature of the air was 49 deg., and +of the water 50 deg., thus showing that there was little or no ice in +the neighbourhood. + +The night being fine we continued under sail, the crews being divided +into two watches. The land had now become much lower than it was about +Churchill, and the coast very flat; so that it was necessary to keep six +or eight miles from the land when the tide was out; and even then, +although the boats drew only two and a half feet water, there was little +enough for them. The bottom was of mud, sand, or shingle, with every +here and there a large boulder stone, some of them ten or twelve feet +high. + +Early on the morning of the 6th three Esquimaux came off in their +kayaks, and although we were going at the rate of four miles an hour +they easily overtook us. As they were going towards Churchill, I sent a +few lines to Mr. Sinclair by them. + +Our latitude at noon was 60 deg. 17' 59" N. Thermometer in air 49 deg., +in water 45 deg. The total distance run, measured by Massey's log, was +ninety-five miles, which agreed very nearly with our latitude, the +difference being easily accounted for by the circumstance that the ebb +tide runs much stronger to the northward than the flood does in an +opposite direction. + +In the afternoon there was a strong breeze, which, although fair, was +rather too much onshore and raised a heavy sea. At 5 P.M., having run +twenty-five miles since noon, we got into shallow water, and although +the heads of the boats were immediately turned to seaward, the ebb tide +was too quick for us, and we got aground, being ten miles from the main +shore. Five miles N.W. of us there was a small but steep island, on the +E. side of which there was still a deep snow drift. By a meridian +altitude of the moon our latitude was 60 deg. 47' 24" N. + +The following morning we floated at 2 A.M., and with a strong breeze +from S.E. stood on our course. The weather looked threatening, and we +had not been long out before the wind increased to a gale, and the sea +rose in proportion. The boats fully realised the good opinion we had of +them, but being so deeply laden the sea broke frequently over them, and +kept us continually baling; at last the Magnet shipped a heavy sea, and +the steersman, either from losing his presence of mind or from not +knowing how to act, allowed the boat to broach to. Fortunately no other +sea struck her whilst thus placed, else both she and the crew must +inevitably have been lost. I here saw the benefit of the precaution I +had taken to have some Orkneymen with me, for it was evident the others +(although as good fellows as could possibly be wished) knew nothing +about the management of a boat in such weather. + +I was loath to lose so fine an opportunity of getting on, but it would +have been recklessness to attempt proceeding. We accordingly ran in +towards Knap's Bay, which was nearly abreast of us, and were soon +anchored in a snug cove under the lee of the largest island in the bay. +It was well that we put in here, for the wind in a short time increased +to a perfect storm with heavy rain. + +On a neighbouring island some miles to the south of us, many Esquimaux +tents were seen, but we could not discover if they were inhabited. + +Notwithstanding the rain I took my gun and made a tour of the island. It +is about two miles long, a quarter of a mile broad, and not exceeding +100 feet in height, being covered with a scanty vegetation, and thickly +strewn in many places with fragments of granite. + +I met with a great many Esquimaux graves, the bodies being protected +from wild animals by an arch of stone built over them. We found a number +of spear-heads, knives, &c. placed in some of these heaps of stones; but +the Esquimaux do not, I believe, destroy all the property of the +deceased, as is common among most tribes of Indians. + +Tracks were seen of a large white bear which had evidently been feasting +on the eggs of various wildfowl that breed here; among these I noticed +the eider duck (_fuligula mollissima_), the long-tailed duck (_fuligula +glacialis_), and the black guillimot (_uria grylle_). + +In the evening, when the wind had somewhat moderated, we were visited +by five Esquimaux from the tents before mentioned; they each received a +piece of tobacco, of which they are remarkably fond, and one of them +promised to carry or forward to Churchill a letter which I addressed to +Sir George Simpson. In a net that we had set, a salmon weighing 10 lbs. +was caught. A large and deep river empties its waters into this bay; its +course is about due east, and it abounds with salmon, seals, and white +whales, being consequently a favourite resort of the natives. The rise +of the tide was thirteen feet. When about to go to bed I found my +blankets quite wet by the seas that washed over me in the morning; this, +however, made them keep out the wind better, and did not certainly +affect my rest. + +The following day was more moderate, but it was 2 P.M. before we could +venture out of our harbour. By observation the latitude 61 deg. 9' 42" N., +and the variation of the compass 7 deg. 48' east were obtained; the dip of +the needle being 86 deg. 18' 3" N. + +At 4 A.M. on the 9th the wind went round so far to the east that we +could not lie our course; it rained heavily, but the wind became more +favourable, and we stood over towards the north shore of Nevill's Bay. +The temperature of the water at mid-day 37 deg., air 44 deg.; latitude +by observation 61 deg. 55' 40" N. + +We passed among many small islands, the resort of great numbers of the +birds already mentioned, which we used as food (although not very +palatable) to save our pemmican. I also noticed a few of foolish +guillimot (_uria troile_), the first we had met with.[2] At half-past +five, it being calm, we landed on a small island to get some water; we +found a few Hutchins geese here, one of them having a brood of young +with her. These appear to have taken the place of the Canada goose, as I +have not seen any of the latter lately. At 8 o'clock, it still being +calm, we pulled up towards the north point of Nevill's Bay, which bore +east of us. No ice was to be seen, but there were numerous patches of +snow on the main shore N.E. of us, distant 10 or 11 miles. + +I saw a young shore lark and a young snow bunting, both able to fly. +There are quantities of red, grey, and blue granite in this island, +variegated with quartz. + +The shores had now become steep and rugged, the whole coast being lined +with bare primitive rocks. + +After breakfast next morning we pulled round the east end of some rocks +near which we had lain at anchor during the flood tide, and kept on our +course across Whale Cove. Some small pieces of ice were seen floating +about; the thermometer in the shade 55 deg., water 36 deg. A fog, which +had been thick all the morning, cleared up at half-past ten, and we saw +some islands at no great distance right ahead, and a smoke a few miles +inland on our beam, probably made by Esquimaux, but we could not see any +tents. Our latitude by observation was 62 deg. 11' 23" N. Temperature of +air 55 deg., of water 37 deg. + +The weather was very variable, with calms and light breezes alternately. +At a little after 7 in the evening we were off the south point of +Corbet's Inlet. It rained hard almost all night; we, however, continued +our course, and at 7 A.M. got among a number of reefs and islands that +lie near the south point of Rankin's Inlet. In attempting to pass +between two of these our boat got aground, and as the tide was ebbing +she could not be shoved afloat again; but, as the greater part of the +cargo was carried on shore before the water fell very far, no damage was +done. An excellent observation of the sun gave latitude 62 deg. 35' 47" +N., variation 6 deg. 6' W., Marble Island bearing east by compass. The +black guillimot was in such numbers here that four or five were killed +at one shot. Many eggs were collected, and one nest was found having two +eider and three long-tailed ducks' eggs in it. The eider had possession, +but whether the birds had a mutual understanding, or whether the stronger +had driven out the weaker possessor, it is difficult to say. + +At 4 P.M. we floated and ran across the inlet, the traverse being 15 +miles. We landed at its north point, as the wind and tide were both +against us. There were numerous signs that this place is often visited +by the Esquimaux; the bones of various animals and the remains of some +stone "caches" being every where visible. A little before midnight a +deer was shot by Corrigal. During a walk I fell in with a large white +owl (_strix nyctra_). As is usually the case it was very shy, and could +not be approached within gun-shot.[3] + +The rise of the tide was 14 feet. + +At half-past two A.M. on the 13th we landed at Jalabert. The morning +was delightful, being quite calm with a sharp frost. While we lay here +waiting the change of the tide, Ouligbuck shot a fine large buck. Many +seals were sporting about, and a shoal of salmon were seen swimming +close to the beach. Having taken on board our venison, we pulled with +the tide now in our favour. We saw upwards of a dozen Greenland whales, +all apparently busy feeding, some of them very large. At noon we were in +latitude 63 deg. 6' 14" N. The variation of the compass 8 deg. 52' W. In +the evening we passed Chesterfield Inlet. Great numbers of rocks lie out +fully eight miles from the shore on its north side. The wind continued +fair and moderate all night, and at 6 in the morning, when in the large +bay S.W. of Cape Fullerton, a single Esquimaux visited us in his kayak. +He had been at Churchill last year, but did not intend to go thither +this season, although he had a number of wolf, fox, and parchment deer +skins at his tent. A present of a knife and a piece of tobacco made him +quite happy, and he left us shouting so loudly as to show that his lungs +were in good order. The party to which he belongs consists of ten +families, their hunting-grounds being situated on the borders of +Chesterfield Inlet, where they spear a great number of deer whilst +swimming across in the autumn. At some distance inland, woods are +found. A number of walruses were observed lying on a small ridge of +rocks. They were grunting and bellowing--making a noise which I fancy +would much resemble a concert of old boars and buffaloes. We did not +disturb their music. Obtained a meridian observation of the sun, which +gave latitude 64 deg. 3' 42" N. As the refraction was great and the +natural horizon used, this is probably erroneous; if it is not, Cape +Fullerton is not properly laid down in the charts, being too far to the +south. Temperature of the air 58 deg., water 41 deg. + +When doubling Cape Fullerton, we were obliged, by the numerous granite +reefs, to keep six or seven miles from the mainland. At 7 in the evening +we landed to replenish our water casks, and had an unsuccessful chase +after two deer. The horizon being clear, I saw Cape Kendall on +Southampton Island, bearing S.E. by S. magnetic. + +15th.--We made but little progress last night, there being no wind. The +weather was rather cold, the thermometer standing at 40 deg., and the +water being only 4 deg. above the freezing point indicated the proximity +of ice. A short time afterwards a large _pack_ was seen about five miles +distant. On approaching nearer, we found that it extended along shore as +far as the eye could see. At 2 P.M. we ran inshore, and took shelter +under some grey-coloured granite rocks twenty feet high. Deer being +noticed at no great distance, two or three sportsmen went after them, +and succeeded in shooting a doe. A very large whale was observed. + +Finding our present position far from being a safe one, at high water we +pushed along shore among masses of ice during a thick fog, and entered +an inlet which opportunely presented itself, and which proved to be an +excellent harbour about 200 yards wide, from four to six fathoms deep, +and nearly four miles long. The bottom being sand and mud would afford +excellent anchorage for much larger craft than ours. As there were many +seals swimming about, I was led to infer that salmon or trout were +abundant; two nets were put down, but no fish were caught. + +During a two days' detention here I traced, for eight miles, the course +of a considerable river which empties its waters into the inlet. I found +it to be a succession of rapids and deep pools, and running as nearly as +possible in a S.S.E. course. Near its mouth upwards of thirty seals were +lying basking in the sun; a ball fired among them sent the whole party +walloping into the water at a great rate, more frightened, however, than +hurt. One of the men had accompanied me, and during our walk we met with +a hen partridge (_tetrao rupestris_) and her brood. I have seen many +birds attempt to defend their young, but never witnessed one so +devotedly brave as this mother; she ran about us, over and between our +feet, striking at our hands when we attempted to take hold of her young, +so that she herself was easily made prisoner. Although kept in the hand +some time, when let loose again she continued her attacks with unabated +courage and perseverance, and was soon left mistress of the field, with +her family safe around her. + +We were fortunate in finding some willows fully an inch in diameter, +which were far superior for fuel to the sea-weed and short heath we had +been using for the last two days. + +Hutchins geese breed here in numbers, and as no Canada geese were seen, +I presume that they do not usually come so far north along the coast. +The shores have a very rugged appearance, there being numerous high +ridges of primitive rocks running far out into the sea in an east and +west direction, the line of stratification dipping to the south at an +angle of 75 deg. with the horizon. In many places these rocks were +thickly studded with small garnets. The rise and fall of the tide was +13-1/2 feet. + +During the whole of the 16th the weather was cloudy, and it rained +heavily all night; but on the 17th the wind increased to a gale, the sky +cleared up, and a satisfactory observation was obtained by the +artificial horizon, which placed us in latitude 64 deg. 6' 45" N. As we +were more than ten miles north of the situation where I had observed the +latitude on the 14th, the difference between the latitude obtained then +and that of our present situation shews the uncertainty of observations +made with the natural horizon when there is much refraction, or when +there is ice in the neighbourhood. The variation of the compass was 20 +deg. 10' W. The gale continued all day, and being from the westward much +ice was driven off shore. + +18th. Last night the wind moderated a little, but about 2 A.M. it blew +more strongly than before. The forenoon was sufficiently fine to permit +me to observe the dip of the needle 86 deg. 36' 5" N. + +In the afternoon, when collecting plants, I discovered some willows of a +larger growth than those we had before found, and I carried a load of +them to the boat. In the evening there was no ice to be seen either +along shore or in the offing, but it still blew too hard for us to get +under weigh. The temperature of the air to-day varied from 50 deg. to 55 +deg. Just as I had turned in for the night, it was reported that two +white bears were close at hand. I immediately got up, and set off "sans +culottes" to have a share of the anticipated sport, when I soon +discovered that two harmless deer in their winter coats had been +mistaken for bears. It was high water to-day at 11h. 40m. A.M., the rise +being 15 feet. By this it will appear that 3 o'clock is the time of high +water at full and change of the moon. + +At 3 next morning, the wind having moderated, we started, and ran along +shore at a fine rate for ten miles; but here the coast turning more to +the westward we could not lie our course, and were compelled to put +ashore until the flood tide made; for it was found that, contrary to +what we had previously experienced, the current ran to the northward +during the flow of the tide, and in an opposite direction during the +ebb, this being probably caused by the strait north of Southampton +Island being blocked up with ice. After an hour's stay we got under +weigh again at a few minutes after seven, and turned to windward. Our +latitude at noon was 64 deg. 20' 51" N. It now fell calm; but this had +not continued more than half an hour before a light breeze sprung up from +the east, and at 1 P.M. we passed Whale Point. A great many whales were +seen to-day, and one of them was swimming amongst a large flock of king +ducks, apparently amusing itself with the confusion that it caused when +rising to breathe. Temperature of the air 50 deg.--water 38 deg. + +20th. It being calm for some time during the night, we came to anchor +whilst the tide was against us; but at 6 A.M. we again continued our +route. There was much ice lying along the shore of Southampton Island, +its proximity being indicated by the temperature of the water (35 deg.) +this morning. Some more large whales were noticed. The ice was again +too close packed to permit us to advance; we therefore landed, and the +latitude 64 deg. 56' 33" N., and the variation of the compass 36 deg. +13' W., were observed. The musquitoes were very numerous and +troublesome, but, nevertheless, the sportsmen succeeded in shooting +five deer. + +On the 21st and 22d we had a continued struggle amongst heavy and +close-packed ice until we reached Wager River Estuary, where we were +detained all day by the immense quantities driving in with the flood and +out again with the ebb tide, which ran at the rate of 7 or 8 miles an +hour, forcing up the floes into large mounds, and grinding them against +the rocks, with a noise resembling thunder. + +During the ebb tide the eddy currents once or twice brought in the ice +with great force, which would have smashed our boats, as they lay in +rather an exposed situation along the face of some steep rocks, had it +not fortunately taken the ground before it reached us. During our stay, +a meridian observation of the sun by artificial horizon gave latitude +65 deg. 15' 36" N., variation 48 deg. 13' W. + +23d. There was a thin coat of ice on the water this morning, the +temperature of which at midnight was 2 deg. below the freezing point, +that of the air 36 deg. As our position was far from safe, we were kept +on the alert all night, and got under weigh at half-past three, for the +purpose of finding some safer harbour. To get to a small bay a mile and +a half to the west of us, we had more than once to pull for our lives, +as the eddy currents already spoken of caused such sudden and uncertain +movements among the ice that there was no telling on what side we were +to expect it. With much difficulty we entered our harbour, and pulled +half a mile up, so as to be safe from the ice, which we had reason to +expect would come in with the flood. The latitude of our new anchorage +was 65 deg. 16' 8" N. This is the most northerly point on the south side +of Wager River, which appears to be not very correctly laid down in the +charts. The channel is not more than four or five miles broad. In the +evening, being wearied with delay, as soon as the flood tide slacked, we +pushed out into the stream, and when in mid-channel had the advantage of +a fine breeze, which enabled us to stem the current that still ran at +the rate of five miles an hour. The boats had some narrow escapes, and +the Magnet received a severe squeeze, but fortunately sustained no +injury, and we were soon in safety on the north side of the channel. + +24th. Having pulled along shore all night, we cast anchor at half-past +five this morning to take breakfast and give rest to the men. Our course +since crossing Wager River had been among a number of small rocky +islands, between which we had some difficulty in threading our way, but +we did not see any signs of a second opening into Wager Bay, although a +sharp look-out was kept. A light air of fair wind springing up, we got +under weigh at a few minutes before 8, and stood on to the northward, +the ebb tide again running with us. At mid-day the temperature of the +air was 45 deg., water 32 deg. + +In the afternoon the breeze increased, and at a quarter-past seven we +rounded Cape Hope, and ran into Repulse Bay. By an amplitude of the sun +whilst setting, the variation of the compass 62 deg. 40' W. was obtained. +As soon as we passed the Cape a great change in the temperature of the +air and water was observed, the former being 56 deg., and the latter 46 +deg. + +25th. We continued under sail all night, and at 6 in the morning were +within seven miles of the head of the Bay, and cast anchor between a +small island and the shore to get some fuel and cook breakfast. Our +latitude was 66 deg. 26' 57" N. Variation of compass 59 deg. 10' W. + +In the afternoon, the wind being ahead, we plied to windward, and when +entering Gibson's Cove, observed with much joy four Esquimaux on the +shore. I immediately landed near them, and taking Ouligbuck's son with +me as interpreter, joined the party, and calling out Texma (peace), +shook hands with them. They were at first in great fear, and appeared +half inclined to run away, but on our kind intentions towards them being +explained they became quite at ease, chatting and laughing as if we had +been old acquaintances. They were good-looking, of low stature, and much +more cleanly than those in Hudson's Straits. Their dresses were made of +deer skin, of the form so often described, the coat having a long tail +somewhat resembling that of an English dress coat. Their legs were +encased in waterproof boots made of seal-skin, and they all wore +mittens, which they seldom took off their hands. There were two of them +middle-aged, Oo-too-ou-ni-ak (who had a formidable beard and whiskers) +and Kir-ik-too-oo; the other two were lads from eighteen to twenty years +of age; and we were soon after joined by a fine young fellow with ruddy +cheeks and sparkling black eyes, having an expression of exceeding good +humour in his laughing countenance. Our new friend wore round his head a +narrow leather band of deer-skin ornamented with foxes' teeth, and +appeared to be somewhat of a dandy in his own estimation. None of the +party had ever visited Churchill, and they had neither heard nor seen +anything of Sir John Franklin. From a chart drawn by one of the party, I +was led to infer that the sea (Akkoolee), to the west of Melville +Peninsula, was not much more than forty miles distant in a N.N.W. +direction, and that about thirty-five miles of this distance was +occupied by deep lakes; so that we would have only five miles of land to +haul a boat over--a mode of proceeding which, even had the distance been +much greater, I had intended adopting, in preference to going round by +the Fury and Hecla Straits. + +A small river empties its waters into the Bay within a hundred yards of +the place where we landed: this stream, up which the boat was to be +dragged, issues from one of the lakes through which we had to pass. +Leaving all the men but one to unload the boats, I went some miles +inland to trace our intended route. After walking about five miles along +the stream already mentioned (the current in which was very strong), we +arrived at the first lake, a long and narrow body of water, having steep +and in some places rocky banks, which we traced for two miles, and +returned late in the evening to our companions. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[2] These birds breed in great numbers among the rocks in Orkney, and +are much attached to their young. By chasing the latter in a boat they +become so fatigued as to be easily caught. When one of them is taken +into the boat the parent bird approaches within a few feet, dives under +and around the boat in all directions, and whenever it comes up to the +surface utters a peculiarly melancholy note, at the same time turning +its head in a listening attitude as if expecting to hear an answer from +the prisoner. The anxiety of the mother has always the desired effect, +and it is pleasing to observe the joy with which she swims away with her +recovered young one, nestling it under her wing and never permitting it +to stray a foot from her. + +[3] An excellent plan of shooting these birds, and one that I have often +successfully practised, is to roll up a bit of fur or cloth about the +shape and size of a mouse, and drag it after you with a line twenty +yards long. The owl will soon perceive the decoy, although half-a-mile +distant; and after moving his head backwards and forwards as if to make +sure of his object, he takes wing, and making a short sweep in the rear +of his intended prey, pounces upon and seizes it in his claws, affording +the sportsman a fine opportunity of knocking him down. I have sometimes +missed my aim, leaving the owl to fly away with the false mouse (which +the sudden jerk had torn from the line) in his claws. The Indians, +taking advantage of this bird's propensity to alight on elevated spots, +set up pieces of wood in the plains or marshes with a trap fastened to +the top. In this way I have known as many as fifty killed in the early +part of winter by one Indian. The owl is very daring when hungry. I +remember seeing one of these powerful birds fix its claws in a lapdog +when a few yards distant from the owner, and only let go his gripe after +a gun was fired. The poor little dog died of its wounds in a few days. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + Receive a visit from a female party--Their persons and dress + described--Crossing the Isthmus--Drag one of the boats up a + stream--Succession of rapids--North Pole Lake--Find a plant fit + for fuel--Christie Lake--Flett Portage--Corrigal + Lake--Fish--Deer-scaring stones--White wolf--Stony Portage--View + of the sea--Exploring parties sent in advance--Their + report--Long Portage--Difficult tracking--Miles Lake--Muddy + Lake--Rich pasturage and great variety of flowers on its + banks--Marmot burrows--Salt Lake--Visit Esquimaux + tents--Discouraging report of the state of the ice--Esquimaux + chart--Reach the sea--Ross inlet--Point Hargrave--Cape Lady + Pelly--Stopped by the ice--Put ashore--Find a sledge made of + ship-timber--Thick fog--Wolves--Walk along the shore--Remains of + musk-cattle and reindeer--Nature of the coast--Danger from the + ice--Irregular rise of the tide--Deer on the ice--Fruitless + efforts to proceed northward--Cross over to Melville + Peninsula--Gale--Again stopped by the ice--Dangerous position of + the boat--Return to starting point--Meeting with our Esquimaux + friends at Salt Lake--Deer begun to migrate southward--Walk + across the isthmus to Repulse Bay. + +The morning of the 26th was fine, with a fresh breeze from W.N.W. A +visit which I had intended paying to the ladies was anticipated by their +coming over to our side of the river, bag and baggage. They were +accompanied by a very old man named Shad-kow-doo-yak, who was extremely +infirm, being obliged to move about in an almost horizontal posture, +supported by a stick. There were six women, (three old, the other three +young,) the whole of them married. One of the latter appeared quite like +a girl of ten years, and was rather good-looking, having more regular +features, and being cleaner and more neat in her dress than the others. +They were all tatooed on the face, the form on each being nearly the +same, viz. a number of curved lines drawn from between the eyebrows up +over the forehead, two lines across the cheek from near the nose towards +the ear, and a number of diverging curved lines from the lower lip +towards the chin and lower jaw. Their hands and arms were much tatooed +from the tip of the finger to the shoulder. Their hair was collected in +two large bunches, one on each side of the head; and a piece of stick +about ten inches long and half-an-inch thick being placed among it, a +strip of different coloured deer-skin is wound round it in a spiral +form, producing far from an unpleasing effect. They all had ivory combs +of their own manufacture, and deer-skin clothes with the hair inwards; +the only difference between their dresses and those of the men being +that the coats of the former had much larger hoods, (which are used for +carrying children,) in having a flap before as well as behind, and also +in the greater capacity of their boots, which come high above the knee, +and are kept up by being fastened to the girdle. Some needles, beads, +and other trifles were given them, at which they manifested their joy +with loud shouts and yells, differing from the men in this respect, who +received what was given them in silence, although they were evidently +much pleased. + +In the forenoon we were joined by two fine-looking young fellows who had +just returned from hunting deer, in which they had been successful, +having driven a large buck off one of the islands into the water and +speared it there. + +One of the women had been on board the Fury and Hecla, both at Igloolik +and Winter Island, and still wore round her wrist some beads which she +had obtained from these vessels. This party consisted of twenty-six +individuals, there being four families. + +All the cargo being placed in security and the Magnet well moored in our +little land-locked harbour, the party, assisted by four Esquimaux, +commenced dragging the North Pole up the stream. + +The latitude of our landing place was found to be 66 deg. 32' 1" N., +being about seven miles further south than it has been laid down on the +charts. The variation of the compass by an azimuth was 58 deg. 37' 30" +W. This I afterwards found to be erroneous, probably arising from local +attraction. The rate of the chronometer had become so irregular that it +could not be depended upon for finding the longitude, and during the +winter it stopped altogether. + +When about to put on a pair of Esquimaux boots, one of our female +visitors, noticing that the leather of the foot was rather hard, took +them out of my hands and began chewing them with her strong teeth. This +is the mode in which they prepare and soften the seal skin for their +boots, and they are seldom without a piece of leather to gnaw when they +have no better occupation for their teeth. At half-past nine P.M. the +men returned from the boat, having been absent since half-past seven in +the morning. They had with much labour dragged her three miles through a +succession of rapids, the channel being so obstructed with large boulder +stones and rocks, that the most of the party were obliged to be almost +continually up to the waist in ice-cold water. The boat had received +some severe blows and rubs, but no material damage. The worst part of +the river had been passed, and it was only a mile and a-half farther to +the lake (named by the Esquimaux Chi-gi-uwik) from which it takes its +rise. The Esquimaux who had assisted us were paid with a large knife +each. + +Two nets that had been set produced four salmon, but the best season for +catching these fish was over, as they had now returned to deep water. +The evening was cloudy with a strong and chilly breeze from N.N.W. +Temperature of the air at 10 P.M. 35 deg. + +27th. As soon as the men had finished breakfast they carried each a load +over the rocks to where the boat lay. + +I this morning tried some of our male friends with a little tea and +biscuit, which they did not relish nearly so well as the ladies had done +the previous evening. Indeed, one of the latter, whom I have already +mentioned, knew what biscuit was the moment she saw it, and said she had +eaten some when on board Captain Parry's ships. I remained at our +landing-place until the afternoon to obtain some observations. That for +latitude gave a result different only 4" from that of yesterday. Having +engaged three Esquimaux to carry up some things that were still to be +taken, at one o'clock I followed my men and came up with them some +distance up the lake. As we could not prevail on any of the Esquimaux to +accompany us as guides, they left us here, and I sent back John Folster +and Ouligbuck to take care of the property left behind. + +Our course was nearly N.N.W., but a gale of head wind impeded our +progress greatly. The temperature of the air was 52 deg.; water of lake +40 deg. A few hours' poling, pulling, and tracking brought us to the end +of the lake, which is about six miles long, from two hundred yards to half +a mile broad, and in some places thirty fathoms deep. The lake, as well as +the stream up which we had come, was named after our boat. We now turned +to the westward and entered a narrow passage one-and-a-half miles long, +which connects the lake we had passed through with the next one; the +current was strong, but between poling and tracking we soon got into +still water. Our course now turned again to the N.N.W., and after +proceeding a mile in this direction, we put on shore for the night in a +small bay, where we found a good supply of a plant (_andromeda +tetragona_), which answers very well for fuel. + +28th. We did not get under weigh this morning until 6 A.M. as the men +had a hard day's work yesterday, and did not get to rest until a late +hour. The lake continues to trend in the same direction as before, but +the banks are neither so high nor so rocky, being covered with short +grass in many places instead of moss. The wind still kept ahead, so that +it was past ten in the morning before we arrived at a portage, and while +two of the men were preparing breakfast, the others were employed +carrying over some of the baggage. This portage, which I named after +Flett, one of the steersmen, was half a mile long; and being in some +places soft and in others stony, it was half-past four before we were +afloat in the lake on the other side of it. It being calm, great numbers +of fish were seen in this small body of water, which was narrow and only +two-and-a-half miles long, with a deep bay on each side, which gave it +the form of a T. It received the name of Corrigal, after one of my men. +We lost our way here for a short time, having entered a wrong arm of +the lake. At 8 P.M. we arrived at another portage, which being a short +one was soon got over. We pulled in a N.W. direction across this lake +for about three miles to a shallow streamlet that flows from it; here we +were to make our third and I hoped our last portage. We left this for +our next morning's work, as it was now half-past 10 P.M. There was a +great number of stones set up here for the purpose of frightening the +deer into the water. A large white wolf was seen. + +The morning of the 29th was raw and cold, with a gale of wind from N.W. +by N. We got over the portage (which, although short, was covered with +rough granite stones that stuck to our boat's iron-shod keel like glue) +at 20 minutes after 6, and embarked on what I then supposed was another +lake, but which afterwards turned out to be a portion of the second lake +we had entered, and the largest body of fresh water we had yet seen. I +named it after my much-respected and kind friend, Alexander Christie, +Esq., Governor of Red River Colony, whose name has been so often +favourably mentioned by Arctic travellers. + +After pulling W.N.W. for eight miles, we were again in doubt about the +route, and whilst on my way to some high ground in order to ascertain +it, I shot a fine buck with an inch and a half of fat on his haunches. + +We advanced two miles to the head of a small inlet, whence I set out +with one of the men to a neighbouring rising ground to endeavour to +obtain a view of our future route, and, if possible, to get a sight of +the sea. After a fatiguing walk over hill and dale, our eyes were +gladdened with a sight of what we so anxiously looked for, but the view +was far from flattering to our hopes. The sea, or rather the ice on its +surface, was seen apparently not more than twelve miles distant, bearing +north; but there was not a pool of open water visible. It was evident +that our detention in the lakes had as yet lost us nothing. Returning at +8 P.M., I sent four men in two parties to endeavour to discover the best +route, one party being ordered to trace a considerable lake in a N.N.W. +direction, and, if possible, discover its outlet. + +30th.--The men sent off last night returned between 1 and 2 this +morning: those who went to the N.W. reported that there was a small +stream flowing towards the Arctic Sea from the farthest extremity of the +lake they had traced. + +As this account agreed with what we had heard from the Esquimaux, there +was no doubt that we were now in the right track. We had to cross two +portages, each a quarter of a mile, and traverse a lakelet one mile in +extent, before we reached the body of water which the men had traced to +its outlet. It was half-past 2 before we accomplished this work, there +being many obstructions in the form of large granite stones, among and +over which we had to drag the boat. + +The lake in which we now found ourselves is upwards of 27 fathoms deep, +about 6-1/2 miles long, and not more than half a mile broad; it lies +nearly N. by W., and is bounded by banks much more steep and rugged than +any we had yet passed, being in some places two or three hundred feet +high. It is situated in latitude 66 deg. 55' N., and longitude 87 deg. +35' W. We found that the longest and most difficult portage was now +before us. By the time we had the baggage carried half way over it was +getting late, and we did not take dinner until 9 P.M. + +The following morning was cloudy, with a cold north breeze, which was +not at all unfavourable for the work we had to do. We went to work at an +early hour, but our advance was very slow, as the portage fully realised +the bad opinion that we had formed of it. Hitherto, by laying the anchor +out some distance ahead, and having a block attached to the bow of the +boat by a strop, or what sailors call a swifter, passing round her, we +could form a purchase sufficiently strong to move her with facility, but +here our utmost exertions were required, and the tracking line was +frequently broken. A piece of iron an eighth of an inch thick, which +lined the keel from stem to stern, was actually drawn out and doubled +up, so that it was necessary to remove the whole. At half-past 10, when +half-way across, we breakfasted, after which we met with a bank of snow, +over which we went at a great rate. The latitude, 66 deg. 59' 37" N., was +observed. Near the extremity of the portage there were some ponds of +water deep enough to float the boat, that helped us not a little. The +descent of a steep bank fully a hundred feet high brought us into +another fine lake eight miles long and one mile broad, lying nearly +north and south, with steep rocky shores on its west side: the place +where we came upon its waters was about three miles from its southern +extremity. This lake was named "Miles," after a friend. As it was quite +calm, we pulled up due north and entered a narrow inlet, out of which +there was no passage. We had passed at a mile and a half from this a +stream flowing from the lake, but it looked so insignificant that I +could not suppose it to be the same that the Esquimaux had reported as +having sufficient water for floating the boat. It was now too late, +however, to look for any other exit, and we all betook ourselves to rest +after a hearty supper, for which the fatigues of the day gave us an +excellent appetite. Some of the men had large pieces of the skin +stripped from their backs whilst lifting the boat over the various +obstructions on the portage. + +1st August.--Finding that there was no likelihood of there being any +other outlet to the lake than the one we had seen, we took out the +cargo, and hauling our boat over a shallow part, we reloaded and soon +entered a narrow lake, the waters of which were very muddy. At half an +hour before noon we landed to have breakfast, and the latitude 67 deg. +4' 22" N., variation of the compass 66 deg. 38' W., were observed. The +shores of this lake, being covered with a rich pasturage and a great +variety of flowers, afforded a pleasing contrast to the country we had +hitherto travelled through. There were great numbers of marmots here, +with a well-beaten path leading from one burrow to another. After +dragging the boat over many shallows, we arrived a little after 5 P.M. +at high-water mark, in latitude 67 deg. 13' N., longitude 87 deg. 30' +W. The tide being out, and there not being sufficient water to float +the boat, I decided on remaining here until the flood made. + +The recent foot-tracks of two Esquimaux were seen on the sand. + +A short distance below where we stopped, the stream we had descended +empties its waters into a small river which flows from the westward. + +2nd.--As the tide did not rise so high by two feet during the night as +it had done the previous day, the boat did not float; we were, +consequently, obliged to carry our baggage a mile further down the +stream, and afterwards, with much trouble, haul our boat over numerous +shoals. We were now afloat in a salt-water lake, and on passing a small +point two Esquimaux tents came in view. Not having got breakfast, I +landed with the interpreter, and, whilst the men were cooking, went to +ascertain if there were any inhabitants. All was quiet inside, but +after calling once or twice outside the door of one of the tents, an old +woman made her appearance, apparently just out of bed, as she was very +coolly drawing on her capacious boots, whilst she surveyed her visitors +without showing the slightest symptoms of alarm, although I afterwards +learned that I was the first European she had ever seen. An old man soon +after popped out his head alongside that of his better half, who +appeared to be endowed with a flow of language which set all his efforts +to say anything at defiance. A few trifling presents put us all, in a +few minutes, on a most friendly footing. Their report of the state of +the ice in the large bay before us was far from encouraging; they said +that there was seldom sufficient water for the passage of one of their +small canoes, and present appearances led me to suppose that they were +correct. The name of the man was I-il-lak, of the woman Rei-lu-ak. The +remainder of the party, consisting of their two sons and their wives, +had gone a day's journey inland to hunt the musk-ox. From a chart drawn +by the woman, who, as is usual, (at least among the Esquimaux) was much +the more intelligent of the two, I was led to infer that there was no +opening leading into the large bay but through the Strait of the Fury +and Hecla, and Prince Regent's Inlet. + +As soon as breakfast was over, in which our new friends joined us, we +crossed the lake, which is 6 miles long by 1-1/2 broad, and put on shore +three of the men (W. Adamson, H. Mineau, and Nibitabo) who had assisted +us across, and were now to walk back to Repulse Bay, a distance of +forty-three miles. By them I sent orders to John Folster (the man left +in charge) to make every possible preparation for wintering, and to keep +up a friendly intercourse with the natives. My crew now consisted of +George Flett, John Corrigal, Richard Turner, Edward Hutchison, Peter +Mathieson, Jacques St. Germain, and William Ouligbuck. We now passed for +two miles through a narrow channel--not more than 40 yards wide--among +pieces of ice which were carried along with great rapidity by the ebb +tide that had just commenced; this led us into the deep inlet which we +had seen on the 29th ult. This inlet I named after Donald Ross, Esq., +Chief-Factor. We found but little open water; by keeping near the rocks, +however, we made some progress northward by using our ice-poles, and +after advancing a mile or two I went upon a piece of ice and obtained +the latitude 67 deg. 15' N. by a meridian observation of the sun in +quicksilver. About eight miles to the north of this we passed a rocky +point, which was named after Chief-Factor Hargrave, the gentleman in +charge of York Factory when the expedition was fitted out, and who +afforded every possible assistance towards its proper equipment. This +point is formed of granite and gneiss, and has a very rugged appearance, +there being neither moss nor grass on the rocks to soften their +asperities. + +At 7 A.M. on the 3rd, when a few miles past Point Hargrave, being +completely stopped by ice, we put ashore and found a large wooden +sledge, which we cut up for fuel. The wood was evidently the planks of +some vessel (probably of the Fury or Sir John Ross's steamer the +Victory) as there were holes in it bored with an auger. After working +our way a mile or two further, we arrived at a high rocky cape having +three elevations upon it lying east and west from each other. This +headland, which was honoured with the name of the lady of Sir John H. +Pelly, Bart., Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, is situated in +latitude 67 deg. 28' N.; longitude by account 87 deg. 40' W.; variation +of the compass 82 deg. 36' W. + +It was low water to-day at 11 A.M., the fall of the tide being 8-1/2 +feet, and the depth of water within a hundred yards of the beach from +3 to 5 fathoms, on a bottom of mud or sand. + +Shortly after noon a fog came on so thick that we could only see a few +yards round us; we, however, pushed our way for 2-1/2 miles beyond Cape +Lady Pelly, along a flat coast lined with mud banks from eight to ten +feet high, frozen solid within a foot of the surface. At 4 P.M. the ice +was too closely packed to allow us to proceed; we therefore turned +towards the shore, and after some trouble effected a landing. The fog +still continued so thick, that, after wandering about for a few miles, I +had much difficulty in finding the boat again, hid as it was by the +surrounding masses of ice. We were much at a loss for drinkable water, +there not being a drop in the neighbourhood but what resembled chocolate +in appearance. + +In the forenoon some wolves, part of a band that had serenaded us last +night with their dismal howlings, were seen prowling about; and a +white-winged silvery gull (_L. leucopterus_), a diminutive sandpiper +(_tringa minuta_), and a marmot were shot. + +4th.--There was a drizzling rain with thick fog all night, but not a +breath of wind. As the tide flowed the ice moved slowly and silently +round us, so that in the morning we had not more than a yard or two of +open water near us, being blocked in on all sides by pieces from 15 to +20 feet thick. The rise of the tide was not less than nine feet. In the +forenoon I walked upwards of five miles along the shore to the +north-westward, passing a few low sandy points about a mile and a half +from each other, which formed a succession of small bays, into each of +which a ravine with high and steep mud banks opened, down which a +streamlet of pea-soup-coloured water flowed. We fell in with the heads +and horns of several musk cattle and reindeer, and saw recent footmarks +of some of the latter, but they had probably been driven some distance +away by the wolves we saw yesterday. Marmots were numerous in every +direction, chattering to each other, and rising on their hind legs to +obtain a better view of the strangers. Many golden plovers and +different kinds of sandpipers were flying about, and a jager (_L. +parasiticus_) was shot: some plants were also collected. The travelling +along this coast was extremely fatiguing, being very often nearly +knee-deep in a very adhesive mud. + +The thermometer rose as high as 70 deg. in the forenoon; in the afternoon +it fell to 48 deg.; and in the evening the weather was cold and +unpleasant, with heavy rain. + +5th.--During the greater part of last night the rain continued, but it +was perfectly calm, although by the lead of the clouds we were in hopes +of a breeze of wind off shore. Our boat being in danger of injury from +some heavy masses of ice that were turning over near us, we moved a +dozen yards nearer the land. Our new situation, however, was little +better than the one we had left, for as soon as the tide began to ebb +large pieces of our "enemy" broke away and fell with a loud crash close +alongside of us. It was high-water this morning at 3 o'clock, the rise +of the tide being 11 feet 6 inches, whilst that of yesterday evening was +only 5-1/2 feet, an irregularity resembling that which was observed by +Captain Sir J. Ross on the shores of Boothia. The temperature of the air +in the morning was 46 deg., but rose to 65 deg. during the day, which was +very hazy, with occasional showers and a fresh breeze off shore; but this +had not the slightest effect upon the ice, and led me to believe that the +Esquimaux report as to the navigation being always obstructed here is +correct. + +Seeing that there was no probability of our getting along shore towards +Dease and Simpson's farthest, I determined to retrace our route, and if +possible cross over to Melville Peninsula for the purpose of surveying +its western shore, towards the Strait of the Fury and Hecla. + +In the evening, when the tide, which on the present occasion rose only +4-1/2 feet, was in, we endeavoured to extricate ourselves; and after some +hours of hard labour in chopping off some points of ice, and pushing +aside such pieces as were not aground, we got a few hundred yards from +the beach, and into water a little more open. + +About half-past ten a young buck was observed on a piece of ice +half-a-mile to seaward, having been forced to take the water to avoid +some wolves, one or two of which were seen skulking along shore watching +for the return of the animal. The state of our larder did not permit us +to be merciful, so the poor deer had little chance of escape from his +biped and quadruped enemies when acting in concert. After a long chase +he was shot whilst swimming from one floe to another. Having pulled and +poled along shore all night, we landed for breakfast at 8 h. 30 m. A.M., +on the 6th, about three miles to the south of Point Hargrave. The +continued rain and fog had so completely saturated everything with damp +that we had not a dry stitch of clothes to put on, and our bedding and +fuel were in the same state; fortunately the weather was mild, so that +we did not feel much inconvenience from this. + +Finding that the ice was clearing away a little--the effect of a +south-east wind,--we directed our course towards the nearest point of +Melville Peninsula, which bore east (true) of us, distant ten miles, and +after threading our way among much heavy and close-packed floes, which +obliged us to make frequent and long detours, after five hours' hard +work we reached the land during a thunder-storm accompanied by torrents +of rain. + +Our landing place was a long rocky point having a deep ice-filled inlet +on its south side. To this point I gave the name of Cape Thomas Simpson, +after the late enterprising traveller of that name. + +As we could not proceed on account of the thick fog and the state of the +ice, we secured the boat to the rocks, and the men although drenched to +the skin went immediately to sleep, eighteen hours of hard work at the +oars and ice-poles having thoroughly tired them all. + +During the night of the 6th the weather was thick with occasional rain, +but about 6 in the morning of the 7th a fresh breeze from the south-east +dispersed the fog. As soon as it was cleared up we renewed our voyage, +but our progress was very slow, having our old opponent to contend with; +in four hours we gained as many miles and were again stopped. Seeing +some deer near the beach, we landed, and whilst two of us had a +fruitless chase after them the remainder of the party were busy cooking +and drying our clothes, blankets, &c. The temperature of the air was +52 deg., that of the water 35 deg. + +The breeze gradually increased as the day advanced, and went round to +the east, which drove the ice a short distance from the shore. We +embarked again between 9 and 10 A.M., and ran to the eastward for a +league or more, when the breeze having changed into a heavy gale, our +boat ran great risk of being injured by the ice, of which we found it +impossible to keep altogether clear. We therefore pulled up to a number +of grounded pieces (a line of which completely barred us from the +shore), and made fast to the largest of them. In getting this far we +were in much danger from the falling, or breaking off, of overhanging +masses (some of them 20 feet in height), which were crashing all around +us, and under which we had frequently to pass. At 5 A.M. our floe got +afloat, and began driving to leeward at a great rate. We just got the +boat clear in time to prevent its being crushed against a berg that +still remained fast. Some of the smaller pieces lying between us and the +land having now floated, we managed to clear a passage for ourselves; +yet although we had only a quarter of a mile to go, so strong was the +gale that it required the utmost exertions of six men at the oars to +reach the shore, when, having secured the boat and raised an oilcloth to +keep off the rain, which had again commenced, we had our supper of +pemmican and water, and retired to bed for the night. + +8th.--On getting up this morning I found that it had become quite calm, +and that the ice was coming in so thick and fast with the flood tide, +that we had to move from our position as fast as possible. On pushing +out to sea it soon became apparent that we could not proceed on our +course, and that there was but little open water in the direction from +whence we had come, and even that was fast filling up. As we could +neither advance nor remain in safety where we were, there was only one +course open to us, and that was to return towards the place from which +we had started. + +It was now evident that this large bay was completely full of ice; for +had this not been the case, the gale of yesterday must have cleared the +coast for many miles. It was with a sad heart that I turned the head of +our boat towards our starting point, where I purposed to await some +favourable change in the state of the ice, and at the same time learn +how the people left at Repulse Bay were getting on with preparations for +wintering, which now appeared inevitable. The weather continued so much +overcast that no observations could be obtained. In the afternoon a +light breeze sprang up from W.N.W., which enabled us to reach in a short +time Ross Inlet, where we had some trouble in finding the entrance of +the river on account of the altered appearance of the rocks, it being +now nearly low water and the shore clear of ice, compared with what it +formerly was. We had much difficulty in towing up to the Salt Lake +before mentioned, as the narrow but deep channel which led to it was, at +this state of the tide, one continued rapid, and so strong was the +force of the stream that our tracking line broke. We were soon snug in +the Salt Lake, but had not been more than half an hour under shelter +before almost every spot of open water outside was filled with ice, so +rapidly had it followed in our wake. + +When we arrived opposite the tents of our Esquimaux friends, they came +running down to the beach led on by the old lady whose fluency of speech +I have already remarked, and who appeared determined to sustain her +character on this occasion by making more noise than all the others put +together, and expressing her joy at our return by loud shouts. The old +people had during our absence been joined by the musk-ox hunters, two +fine young active-looking fellows (named Ark-shuk and I-vit-chuck) and +their wives. These women were the cleanest and best-looking I had yet +seen. They were tatooed much in the same way as those at Repulse Bay. +The hunters said they had been unsuccessful, but as each of the women +had the tail, or a portion of the shaggy hair of the neck, of a musk-ox +in her hand as a musquito flapper, their veracity was rather doubted. +There was only one child with them, a sickly-looking boy of six or seven +years, stepson to a man named Shi-shak, who arrived about an hour after +us in his kayak from an unprofitable walrus hunt. + +I learnt from our Esquimaux acquaintances that the deer had commenced +migrating southward. This being the case, I prepared to walk across to +Repulse Bay to see what progress the party left there had made in their +work. The weather had been so cloudy for the last week that no +observations of any value could be obtained. + +Leaving three men and Ouligbuck's son in charge of the boat, I started +at 6.30 A.M. on the 9th, in company with Corrigal, N. Germain, and +Matheson, to cross the isthmus, taking a S.S.E. direction; but it was +impossible to keep this course for any great distance, as we were forced +to make long circuits to avoid precipices and arms of lakes. After a +most fatiguing day's march over hill and dale, through swamp and stream, +we halted at half-past 6 P.M. close to the second portage crossed on our +outward route. To gain a distance of twenty miles we had travelled not +less than thirty. Our supper was soon finished, as it was neither +luxurious nor required much cooking, consisting of our staple +commodities pemmican "cold with water." + +10th.--The morning was raw and cold with some hoar frost, and there not +being a blanket among the party and only two coats, our sleep was +neither long, sound, nor refreshing. In fact I had carried no coat with +me except a thin Macintosh, which, being damp from the rain of +yesterday, had become an excellent conductor of caloric, and added to +the chilly feeling instead of keeping it off. + +There is one advantage in an uncomfortable bed; it induces early rising, +and it proved so in the present instance, for we had finished breakfast +and resumed our journey by half-past 2 A.M. The travelling was as +difficult as that of yesterday, but we had the advantage of a cool +morning and got on more easily. At 7 o'clock we arrived at the narrows +which separate Christie and North Pole Lakes, where we found the greater +number of the Esquimaux we had seen, encamped, waiting for deer crossing +over. Some of them immediately got into their kayaks and paddled across +to our side of the lake, but with so much caution that it was evident we +had not yet wholly gained their confidence. + +At 2 P.M. we arrived at Repulse Bay with most enviable appetites, but +rather foot-sore, our shoes and socks having been entirely worn through +long before we reached our destination. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + State of things at Repulse Bay--Determine to discontinue the + survey till the spring--Reasons--Party sent to bring over the + boat--Fix on a site for winter residence--Ptarmigan--Laughing + geese--Eider and king ducks--Visits of natives too + frequent--Return of the party sent for the boat--Report the bay + more closely packed than before--Preparations for + wintering--Fort Hope built--Proceed to North Pole and Christie + Lakes to look out for fishing stations--Purchase dogs--Wariness + of the deer--Flocks of geese pass southward--Blue-winged and + snow-geese--Their habits--Snow-storm--Its effects--Return to + Fort Hope--Daily routine--Signs of winter--Deer + numerous--Quantity of game killed--Provision-store built of + snow--Great fall of snow--Effects of the cold--Adventure with a + deer--Visited by a party of natives--Their report of the ice + westward of Melville Peninsula--An island said to be + wooded--Produce of the chase in October--Temperature--Two + observatories built of snow--Band of wolves--A party caught in a + snow-storm--Esquimaux theory of the heavenly bodies--Temperature + of November--Diminished supply of provisions. + +On our arrival at Repulse Bay we found the men all well, but getting no +more fish and venison than was barely sufficient to support them. Having +taken but a scanty breakfast, I fully enjoyed my dinner here, but I +reversed the usual order of eating the same, taking my venison steak +first (it being soonest cooked), and salmon as second course. + +This was to me the most anxious period during the expedition; nor will +this appear strange when I mention that it was necessary to decide, and +that promptly, on one of two modes of proceeding, namely, whether to +leave the whole survey to be completed during the following spring and +summer, or to endeavour to follow it up this autumn. After mature +consideration I determined on adopting the first of these measures, and +giving up all hopes of prosecuting the survey at present. + +My reasons for arriving at this conclusion I shall briefly mention, as +such a step may appear rather premature. I saw from the state of the ice +and the prevalence of northerly winds that there was no probability of +completing the whole of the proposed survey this season; and although +part of the coast, either towards the Strait of Fury and Hecla, or +towards Dease and Simpson's farthest, might be traced, yet to accomplish +even this might detain us so long that there would be no time to make +the necessary preparations for wintering, and we should thus be under +the necessity of returning to Churchill without accomplishing the object +of the expedition, or, if we remained at Repulse Bay, run the risk of +starving, for I could obtain no promise of supplies from the natives, +and all the provisions we had carried with us would not go far to +support the party throughout the winter. We should thus have to depend +almost, if not altogether, upon our own exertions for the means of +existence both in regard to food and fuel. + +It ought to be borne in mind that we were differently situated from any +party that had hitherto gone to these cold and barren regions. The +resources of the country were quite unknown to us; it was not likely +that the deer would remain near at hand all winter, as we were at too +great a distance from the woods; and it was very evident, for the same +reason, that we should not be able to procure any sort of fuel after the +first fall of snow, which there was little doubt would occur some time +in September. + +Before reaching the Arctic Sea to the west of Melville Peninsula, I was +for various reasons inclined to agree with the opinion of Sir John Ross, +"that Boothia was part of the continent of America." This opinion was +strengthened when I observed the great rise and fall of the tide, which +must have affected the tides at the Castor and Pollux River, had there +been a strait of any width separating Boothia from the mainland, unless +indeed the assumption of Captain Sir J. Ross, that "the sea to the west +of Boothia stands at a higher level than that on the east side," be +correct. In that case there would be a continual easterly current, which +could scarcely fail to have been noticed by so acute an observer as +Simpson. + +Retaining one man with myself to guard our stores and attend the nets, +on the 11th I sent over the remaining six to assist in bringing over the +boat. Ouligbuck had now been about two days looking for deer, and I +began to feel anxious about him, when he made his appearance between 9 +and 10 A.M. with the venison of a young deer on his back. + +As soon as my companion had returned from the nets, out of which he got +no fish, I took a walk for the purpose of looking out for fishing +stations and a site for our winter house. For the latter I could find no +better place than a narrow but not deep valley within a few hundred +yards of our landing-place, and about a hundred and fifty from North +Pole River on its east side. There appeared to be various small bays +along shore to the eastward which were likely to produce fish. A flock +of laughing geese (_anser albifrons_) flew past quite close to me; but +having only my rifle, I could but send a ball after them and missed as +was to be expected. + +In a small pond an eider-duck was observed with her young brood +apparently not more than twelve days old. The male eider and king ducks +had already left this quarter, having migrated to the southward. + +12th.--A cloudy day with a strong breeze from N.N.W. Two salmon and a +trout were got from the nets, but Ouligbuck killed no deer. In the +evening, when on my way to set a net in a lake at no great distance, I +fell in with a covey of ptarmigan, (_T. rupestris_), most of the young +being strong on the wing, and bagged eighteen brace in an hour or two. +Knocking down those birds on this day made me half fancy myself among +the grouse in my own barren native hills. + +On the 13th the weather was raw and cold with frequent showers, and a +gale of wind from the same quarter as the day before. Four salmon were +caught, and a deer was shot. The thermometer varied from 36 deg. to 38 +deg. Four Esquimaux men and two women visited us to-day. + +The 14th was much like the 13th, but there was no rain. As the visits of +the natives had now become rather frequent, and as they brought nothing +with them, but appeared to expect both food and presents, I bade +Ouligbuck say that we could not afford to feed them any longer, and that +they had better return to their huts, where I knew they were killing +deer enough to support themselves. On returning from my daily walk, I +found that our friends had taken leave rather hurriedly, having been +detected appropriating some salt fish, which they could not eat. For +this they were sharply reprimanded by the interpreter, and one of the +ladies was most ungallantly accused by her husband of being the +offender. Corrigal and I hauled the seine in the evening and caught +thirty-three salmon; fourteen more were got out of the nets. + +15th.--This was a beautiful day throughout. In the evening, the sky +being clear and cloudless, some stars were visible, and a few streaks of +orange-coloured aurora showed themselves to the southward. The seine was +again hauled, and thirty-two salmon (some of them very small) caught, +whilst the nets produced eleven more. Just as we were landing our fish, +the men who had been taking over the boat made their appearance, being a +day earlier than I expected. By keeping the proper route three of the +portages were avoided, and they had the advantage of a fine fair breeze +all through the lakes. The large bay (Akkoolee) was reported as being +more closely packed with ice than before. This was nothing but what I +should have expected after the late north-westerly winds. + +The two Esquimaux, Arkshuk and Ivitchuk, ("Anglice" Aurora and Walrus,) +who had been engaged to aid in dragging the boat over the portages, had +wrought well, and readily accommodated themselves to the habits of the +men. They were well recompensed; and Ivitchuk (a merry little fellow) +was engaged to accompany me on my intended spring journeys. + +The boat was for the present left at North Pole Lake, as it might still +be required there. + +The 16th was a day of rest, and the 17th was so stormy and wet that +little work could be done. + +All hands were now busily employed making preparations for a long and +dreary winter; for this purpose four men were set to work to collect +stones for building a house, whilst the others were occupied in setting +nets, hunting deer, and gathering fuel. Our work was much impeded by +rainy weather, particularly the house building, as the clay or mud was +washed away as soon as applied. + +We found that our nets were so much cut up by a small marine insect from +a half to three-quarters of an inch long, resembling a shrimp in +miniature--the favourite food of the salmon--that it was quite +impossible to keep them in repair. I thought to destroy their taste for +hemp by steeping the nets in a strong decoction of tobacco, but it had +no effect. + +On the 2nd September our house was finished; its internal dimensions +were 20 feet long by 14 feet broad, height in front 7-1/2 feet, sloping +to 5-1/2 at the back. We formed a very good roof by using the oars and +masts of our boats as rafters, and covering them with oilcloth and moose +skin, the latter being fixed to the lower or inside of the rafters, +whilst the former was placed on the outside to run off the rain. The door +was made of parchment deer-skins stretched over a frame of wood. The +walls were fully two feet thick, with three small openings, in which a +like number of windows, each having two panes of glass, were placed. + +Our establishment was dignified with the name of Fort Hope, and was +situated in 66 deg. 32' 16" N.; longitude (by a number of sets of lunar +distances with objects on both sides of the moon) 86 deg. 55' 51" W. The +variation of the compass on 30th August was 62 deg. 50' 30" W.; mean dip +of the needle, and the mean twice of a hundred vertical vibrations in +the line of declination 226". + +A sort of room was formed at one end by putting up a partition of +oilcloth. In this, besides its serving as my quarters, all our pemmican +and some of the other stores were stowed away. + +From the 5th to the 13th I was up at North Pole and Christie Lakes in +the boat with three men, our object being to look out for fishing +stations, and also to purchase dogs from the Esquimaux. The wind being +from the north, we did not reach the Esquimaux encampment till the 10th. +They had shifted their tents from the narrows to a small point about +eight miles up Christie Lake, where the deer were more numerous, among +which they seemed to have made great havoc, to judge by the abundance of +skins and venison lying in all directions. Our friends were delighted to +see us, and had improved much in appearance, the only poor animals about +them being their dogs, which appeared to get no more to eat than was +barely sufficient to keep them in life. I looked out four of the best, +being all I wanted at present, for which I promised a dagger each, +intending to take them with us on our return. During our stay here a +band of deer came to the edge of the lake, and after feeding a short +time took the water. Three of the natives slipped noiselessly into their +kayaks, and lay waiting, until the deer were far enough out in the +water, to intercept them, but just as they were on the eve of starting +the wind changed a little, and the deer smelling their enemy wheeled +about, and were soon in safety on the beach from which they had started. + +Many large flocks of Hutchins and snow geese had been seen for the last +few days passing to the southward. The blue-winged goose of Edwards is +by some ornithologists considered as the young of the last named bird in +one of its stages towards maturity, but this opinion I believe to be +erroneous, for the following reasons. + +During a ten years' residence at Moose Factory, on the shores of +Hudson's Bay, I had many opportunities, every spring and autumn, of +observing both the snow and the blue-winged goose in their passage to +and from their breeding places, the marshes near Moose being favourite +feeding ground. + +In spring both species are very nearly alike in size, the blue-winged +goose, although shorter, being rather the heavier bird. In the autumn +there are four distinct varieties, two of which exactly resemble in size +and plumage those seen in the spring, whilst the others are much +smaller, and differ much from these and from each other in their +markings; the young of the snow goose being of a light grey colour, +darkest on the head and upper part of the neck; whilst the young of the +blue-winged goose is of a dark slate colour, approaching to black on the +head and neck. Neither do the young separate from the old, as has been +asserted; for families may be seen feeding by themselves all over the +marshes, the old bird keeping a sharp look-out, and giving timely +warning to her brood of any approaching danger. In fact the Indian, who +has thoroughly studied the habits of the bird, takes advantage of her +affection for her young, and of their attachment to their parent, to +make both his prey. Well knowing that the young are easily decoyed by +imitating their call and by mock geese set up in the marsh, and that the +old bird, although more shy, will follow them, he waits patiently until +she comes within range; if he shoots her he is pretty sure to kill the +greater part of the others, as they continue to fly over and around the +place for some time after. + +During the night of the 10th, when near the north end of the lake, we +experienced one of the severest snow storms I ever witnessed. As we were +sleeping on shore we never thought of putting up any sort of shelter; +the consequence was that in the morning we were covered with snow to the +depth of a foot. Our boat, which had been hauled up on the beach, was +blown away from her fastenings, and carried several hundred yards into +the lake among some stones. Being the only one of the party provided on +the spot with Macintosh boots, it fell to my lot to wade out to the +boat, throw overboard the ballast, lift her bows over the stones, and +take a line to the shore; which, from having miscalculated the depth of +the water, I found a more disagreeable task than I had expected. +Fortunately the boat sustained no injury. It was now about 6 o'clock in +the morning of the 11th, and as the storm continued unabated we made a +sort of tent of our sails. In doing this the men got so wet and cold, +from the snow thawing on them, that they could not even light their +pipes. + +In the afternoon the weather improved, and we were able to scrape a +little fuel together, with which we cooked some salmon and boiled a +kettle of tea, which made us feel quite comfortable again. We thus +combined breakfast, dinner, and supper in one meal. + +The hares had already acquired their winter coat, and the golden plovers +and sandpipers had all disappeared, but some Lapland and snow-buntings +and the shore-lark were still to be seen. + +A little after noon on the 13th the wind shifted to the S.W., and we got +under weigh to return home. A couple of hours brought us to the +Esquimaux, where we stopped to take on board our dogs. A young lad also +came with us to carry some medicine for the patriarch of the tribe, who +was labouring under various complaints peculiar to old age. We arrived +at North Pole River at 6 P.M., having had a beautiful run all the way. + +As we were not likely to require the boat on the lakes again this +season, she was hauled up and placed in security for the winter. While +at the lake we had not been able to procure much more food than was +necessary for our own use, but this may in part have been attributable +to the bad weather. + +The storm of the 10th had been much felt at our house, and so great was +its force that the boat left there was lifted a few yards by it, but +received no injury. Much heavy ice was driven into the bay and lay +heaped up all along the shore. + +Our house was still far from comfortable, the clay being quite wet and +producing a most unpleasant feeling of dampness,--far more disagreeable +than a much lower temperature with dry weather. + +Our time was now continually occupied in collecting fuel, (portions of +which, as soon as it became dry, were built up into small heaps on the +rocks near the house,) in fishing, and in shooting deer and partridges. + +The routine of our day's work was as follows: in the morning we were up +before day-light; the men got their orders for the several duties they +had to perform, which were principally carried on out of doors, and at +which they set to work immediately after rolling up their bedding and +taking breakfast. This meal usually consisted of boiled venison, the +water with which it was cooked being converted into a very excellent +soup by the addition of some deer's blood, and a handful or two of +flour. + +Our dinner, or rather supper, consisted of the same materials as our +breakfast, and was taken about 4 or 5 o'clock; after that, my time was +employed in writing my journal or making calculations; whilst the men +were busy improving themselves in reading, arithmetic, &c., in which I +assisted them as much as my time would permit. Divine service was read +every Sunday when practicable. + +On the 20th the pools of water were covered with ice sufficiently strong +to be walked upon, and on the 28th some hooks were set under the ice on +the lakes for trout. During the latter part of the month deer were very +numerous. As many as seventeen were shot on the 28th, and on the +following day ten more were got, seven of which were killed by myself +within a few miles of the house. On the 29th a considerable portion of +the bay was frozen over, and the seals were seen popping up their heads +every now and then through the ice to keep breathing places open. + +The weather during this month having been very changeable and stormy, +and unfavourable for observations of all kinds, the sextant had +frequently been exchanged for the rifle--a not unwelcome exchange to one +addicted to field-sports "from his youth upwards." + +Our sporting book for the month showed that we had been doing something +towards laying in a stock of provisions for winter; 63 deer, 5 hares, +one seal, 172 partridges, and 116 salmon and trout, had been brought in. + +October.--During the first part of this month some of the men were +employed in building a store of snow for our provisions, and covering it +with two of the sails. On the 12th and three following days there was +one continued storm which drifted the snow all round the house as high +as the roof, and on the night of the 15th would have choked all our dogs +that were chained outside, had not Adamson and another got up and cut +their fastenings. On the 16th, when it cleared up, the thermometer first +fell to zero. + +The cold had now penetrated in-doors and frozen the clay on the walls, +which made us much more comfortable. On attempting to open some books +that had been lying on a shelf, I was surprised to find that the leaves +were all frozen together; when I mention this, and also that our powder +horns and every other article that was bound with brass or silver burst +their fastenings, some idea may be formed of the dampness of our house +whilst the clay on the walls was wet. + +On the 19th, when out shooting, having killed one deer, I went in +pursuit of another (a large buck) that had been wounded, and put four +balls through him. Thinking that the last ball had settled the business, +(for he had fallen,) I went carelessly up to him without re-loading my +rifle, and when within a few yards I believe I apostrophized the animal +much in the following strain--"Ah! poor fellow, you are done for at +last!" when the deer, as if he had understood what I said, and thought I +was adding insult to injury, sprung to his legs in a moment, and at a +couple of bounds his horns were within a foot of me. Circumstanced as I +was, I thought with Falstaff "that discretion was the better part of +valour", and beat a hasty retreat, laughing heartily all the time at the +strange figure we must have made. Taking the deer by the horns could +have been of no use, and might have cost me some troublesome bruises and +scratches. + +Twelve Esquimaux and a boy visited us on the 23rd; among whom was the +man (named Shi-ma-kuk) to whom the sledge belonged, part of which we had +used for fuel when near Cape Lady Pelly with the boat. He was now +rewarded, and apparently so much to his satisfaction that he would have +had no objections to have another sledge burnt on the same terms. They +reported that the bay, to the west of Melville Peninsula, had been +packed full of ice ever since we were over there, until a few days +before they came away, when there was some open water to be seen. +Besides purchasing five dozen rein-deer tongues, a seal-skin full of +oil, and some other articles, we added two good dogs to our team. + +Among other information they told me that there was an island in +Akkoolee (the large bay west of Melville Peninsula,) named Sha-took, +(which means low or flat,) on which large trees grew; but they +acknowledged that none of them had ever been on the island, although +they had been near enough to see the trees distinctly. In this I believe +their imaginations had deceived them, aided perhaps in some degree by a +peculiar state of the atmosphere, during which the appearance of the +land has been so distorted that it has been mistaken for woods. Some +round sticks, probably spars belonging to one of the two vessels left in +Prince Regent's Inlet, having been picked up along the west shore of +Melville Peninsula, had no doubt strengthened the opinion they had +formed. Two of their party whom we had never seen, were drowned in Miles +Lake by falling through the ice; the one in chasing a deer, and the +other, it is supposed, in attempting to save his companion. + +Our visitors left us on the 25th, promising to return soon with some +deer-skin dresses. During the whole of the month we were occupied much +the same way as in the previous one. Deer were numerous during the first +part of it, but scarce latterly; sixty-nine were shot, but the produce +of our nets had fallen very low, eighteen salmon and four trout being +all we caught. The highest temperature of the month was 38 deg., whilst +the lowest was 15 deg. Although there was a great deal of very stormy +weather, there were some clear calm nights, of which I took advantage +to obtain lunar distances. + +Two observatories had been built of snow, with a pillar of ice in each +(at the suggestion of Captain Lefroy, R.A.), the one for the dip circle, +the other for an horizontally suspended needle to try the effects of the +aurora upon it. + +So much snow had fallen that it lay four feet deep on the roof of our +meat store, and was near breaking the masts which supported it; so that +we were obliged to raise its walls about a fathom to prevent such an +occurrence in future. + +On the 4th November, when out looking for deer a little before day-light +in the morning, I observed a band of animals coming over a rising ground +at a quick pace directly towards me. I at first supposed them to be +deer, but on a nearer approach they proved to be wolves, seventeen in +number. They continued to advance at full speed until within forty +yards, when they formed a sort of half circle to leeward. Hoping to send +a ball through one of them, I knelt down and took what I thought a sure +aim at a large fellow that was nearest; unfortunately it was not yet +broad day-light, and the rascals all kept end on to me, so that the ball +merely cut off a line of hair and a piece of skin from his side. They +apparently did not expect to meet with such a reception, for after +looking at me a second or two they trotted off, no doubt as much +disappointed at not making a breakfast of me as I was at missing my aim. +Had they come to close quarters (which they sometimes do when pressed +hard for food) I had a large and strong knife which would have proved a +very efficient weapon. On my way home I shot three hares. + +On the 5th two partridges were shot which very much resembled the tetrao +saliceti, but which I suppose to be the T. mutus. The parasitae found on +them differed from those usually found on the willow grouse. + +We began during this month to find that we could not afford fuel to dry +our clothes; I therefore adopted the plan that a celebrated miser took +to warm his food, by taking them under the blankets with me at night, +and drying them by the heat of the body. This, it may be supposed, was +not very agreeable, particularly when the weather became colder, for the +moisture froze during the day on the blankets, which sparkled with hoar +frost when I went to bed. + +In the afternoon of the 9th we had one of the most severe snow storms +that had yet been experienced, and I was much alarmed at the non-arrival +of four men who had gone in the morning to examine some nets and set +others in North Pole Lake eight miles from the house. Guns were fired to +attract the attention of the party, who made their appearance at +half-past 8 P.M., when we had given up all hopes of seeing them until +the following day. They had been upwards of eight hours in coming as +many miles, and were like walking pillars of snow when they came in. The +four dogs they had with them were still missing, having run off with the +sled as soon as they smelt the house. On the following day they were +found entangled with one another, and the sled stuck fast against some +rocks. One or two of the dogs were completely covered up with snow, but +all safe. + +About 2 P.M. on the 25th, two Esquimaux men and a boy, named Arkshuk +(Aurora Borealis), Took-oo-lak (the falling stick), and Che-mik-tee +(snuff), came to see us with deer-skin clothes, &c. for barter. + +I had a good deal of conversation through the interpreters with Arkshuk, +whom I found rather intelligent and communicative. It appears that the +favourite food of these Esquimaux is musk-ox flesh; venison ranks next, +and bear and walrus are preferred to seal and fish. Their theory +regarding the sun and moon is rather peculiar. It is said that many +years ago, not long after the creation of the world, there was a mighty +conjuror (Esquimaux of course), who gained so much power that at last he +raised himself up into the heavens, taking with him his sister (a +beautiful girl) and a fire. To the latter he added great quantities of +fuel, which thus formed the sun. For some time he and his sister lived +in great harmony, but at last they disagreed, and he, in addition to +maltreating the lady in many ways, at last scorched one side of her +face. She had suffered patiently all sorts of indignities, but the +spoiling of her beauty was not to be borne; she therefore ran away from +him and formed the moon, and continues so until this day. Her brother is +still in chase of her, but although he sometimes gets near, he will +never overtake her. When it is new moon, the burnt side of the face is +towards us; when full moon, the reverse is the case. + +The stars are supposed to be the spirits of the dead Esquimaux that have +fixed themselves in the heavens, and falling stars, or meteors, and the +aurora borealis, are those spirits moving from one place to another +whilst visiting their friends. + +The highest, lowest, and mean temperature of November were respectively ++28 deg., -25 deg., and +0.68. Only twelve deer, nine hares, and a few +partridges had been shot, whilst our nets produced about sixty fish, the +greater part of which were small. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + Winter arrangements completed--Learn to build snow + houses--Christmas-day--North Pole River frozen to the + bottom--1st January--Cheerfulness of the men--Furious + snow-storm--Observatories blown down--Boat buried under the + snow--Ouligbuck caught in the storm--Dog attacked by a + wolf--Party of natives take up their residence near Fort + Hope--Esquimaux mentioned by Sir John Ross known to them--Boat + dug out of the snow--A runaway wife--Deer begin to migrate + northward--A wolf-chase--First deer of the season + shot--Difficulty of deer-hunting in spring--Dimensions of an + Esquimaux canoe--Serious accident to Ouligbuck--A + conjuror--Preparations for the journey + northward--Temperature--Aurora Borealis. + +During December we completed our various buildings, and formed passages +under the snow, so that we could without exposure go to any of them. +There were four houses, viz.: one for provisions, another for fuel, a +third for oil, dog's meat, &c., and a fourth for the men's spare +luggage, for which there was no room in the dwelling-house, and which +had been stowed in the tents until it was found necessary to take them +down. + +Being desirous of requiring as little assistance from the Esquimaux as +possible, I attempted to build a snow house after the native fashion, +and succeeded tolerably well; finding that the process was not so +difficult as I anticipated, after a few trials one or two of the men +became very good masons. We had now no encouragement to move much about, +as there was no game to be seen, and the weather was very unsettled, and +consequently no more exercise was taken than was necessary to keep us in +good health. In stormy weather, not being able to get out of doors, the +men wrestled or played some game which called the muscles into action, +and thus kept up the animal heat. + +On the 21st, the sun's lower limb rose about double his diameter above a +rising ground to the southward, on a level with Fort Hope. On the 23rd +and 24th, whilst looking out some good venison for our Christmas dinner, +we examined our stock of such provisions, and found that we had not +enough to last us until the return of the deer in spring; fortunately we +had still a good supply of pemmican left. + +Christmas-day was passed very agreeably, but the weather was so stormy +and cold that only a very short game at foot-ball could be played. Short +as it was, however, it was sufficiently amusing, for our faces were +every moment getting frost-bitten either in one place or another, so as +to require the continual application of the hand; and the rubbing, +running about, and kicking the ball all at the same time, produced a +very ludicrous effect. + +Our dinner was composed of excellent venison and a plum-pudding, with a +moderate allowance of brandy punch to drink a health to absent friends. + +For some time past, washing the face had been rather an unpleasant +operation, as any water that got among the hair froze upon it +immediately. This is mentioned by Sir George Back as having occurred +once to him at Fort Reliance, in 1833. On the 28th, North Pole River got +frozen to the bottom, so that we were forced to go to a lake to the S.W. +of Beacon Hill, about half a mile distant, for water. + +The 1st of January was as beautiful a day as we could have wished to +begin the new year with. There was a light air of wind, and the +temperature varied from -23 deg. to -26 deg. After a most excellent +breakfast of fat venison steaks, all the party were occupied for some +hours with a spirited game at foot-ball, at which there was much fun, +the snow being so hard and slippery that several pairs of heels might +be seen in the air at the same time. + +My dinner consisted of part of a hare and rein-deer tongue, with a +currant pudding as second course. The men's mess was much like my own, +except that they had venison instead of hare. A small supply of brandy +was served out, and on the whole I do not believe that a more happy +company could have been found in America, large as it is. 'Tis true +that an agreeable companion to join me in a glass of punch, to drink a +health to absent friends, to speak of by-gone times and speculate on the +future, might have made the evening pass more pleasantly, yet I was far +from unhappy. To hear the merry joke, the hearty laugh, and lively song +among my men, was of itself a source of much pleasure. + +On the 7th the tracks of a few deer were unexpectedly seen within a few +miles of the house; and on the following day the thermometer showed a +temperature of -47 deg., the lowest we experienced during the winter. + +The 9th was a more disagreeable day than any we had yet had. A storm +from the north with thick snow-drift, and a temperature of 72 deg. below +the freezing point, made it feel bitterly cold. Fortunately we had some +days before made a house for our dogs, else they must have inevitably been +frozen to death. Such was the force of the gale for two days that both +observatories were completely demolished, and wherever the snow banks +projected in the slightest degree above the surrounding level, they were +worn away by the friction of the snow-drift as if cut with a knife. + +The thermometer indoors varied from 29 deg. to 40 deg. below the freezing +point; which would not have been unpleasant where there was a fire to +warm the hands and feet, or even room to move about; but where there was +neither the one nor the other, some few degrees more heat would have been +preferable. + +As we could not go for water we were forced to thaw snow, and take only +one meal each day. My waistcoat after a week's wearing became so stiff +from the condensation and freezing of my breath upon it, that I had much +trouble to get it buttoned. + +The gale did not subside until the 15th, when we were busily employed +repairing the damages done by the wind and drift. As a great weight of +snow had lodged upon our boat, we were afraid she might be injured by +the pressure, and some of the men were employed to search for her, but +there was some difference of opinion about her exact situation, and it +was two days before she was found, after digging to the depth of eight +feet. + +A stick was set up at one end of the boat that there might be no +difficulty in finding the place again. + +One cause of discomfort to me was the great quantity of tobacco smoke in +our low and confined house, it being sometimes so thick that no object +could be seen at a couple of yards' distance. The whole party, with the +exception of myself, were most inveterate smokers; indeed it was +impossible to be awake for ten minutes during the night without hearing +the sound of the flint and steel striking a light. Of course I might to +a great extent have put a stop to this, but the poor fellows appeared to +receive so much comfort from the use of the pipe, that it would have +been cruelty to do so for the sake of saving myself a trifling +inconvenience. + +This month was so stormy that the most of our time when we could get +out of doors was passed in clearing away the snow that drifted about our +doors and over the house, and in rebuilding and repairing. The boat, and +also the stick that had been set up as a mark, were completely covered +over. On the 18th Ouligbuck had gone out to hunt, and did not return +till the 25th, after I had given up all hopes of ever seeing him again +in life. It appeared that he had visited the Esquimaux at Christie Lake +for the purpose of speaking to them about not having kept their promise +regarding some oil that they said they would bring to us, and which they +had omitted to do. He had been caught by the storm of the 18th before he +reached his friends, and was obliged to build a snow hut, in which he +passed the night comfortably enough. On the following morning, when it +cleared up a little, he found that he was not more than two hundred +yards from his destination, which the thickness of the weather on the +previous day had prevented him from seeing. + +One of the dogs we had lent this party to aid in drawing some provisions +to the coast had a narrow escape from a wolf. Having broken loose she +set out on her return home, when she was attacked by the wolf, and +treated much in the same way that Tam O'Shanter's mare was by Cutty +Sark, for + + "The wolf had caught her by the rump, + And left poor Surie scarce a stump." + +On the last day of January some Esquimaux, who were to take up their +quarters near us, arrived with part of their luggage and provisions, and +built their snow house near the south side of Beacon Hill. This would +have been the best situation for our establishment, as it was completely +sheltered from the northerly gales, but we were too late in making the +discovery. + +I visited the Esquimaux on the 1st February, and found the old man, +named Shishak, and his wife in their comfortable house, which was so +warm that my waistcoat, which had been frozen quite stiff for some time +past, actually thawed. It was not easy to learn any of the peculiarities +of these people, as Ouligbuck was rather shy about describing their +habits. Ouligbuck's son informed me that even in winter they strip off +all their clothes before going to bed. + +When taking a walk on the 3rd I passed near the Esquimaux, and found one +of them repairing the runners of his sledge. The substance used was a +mixture of moss chopped up fine, and snow soaked in water, lumps of +which are firmly pressed on the sledge with the bare hand, and smoothed +over so as to have an even surface. The process occupied the man nearly +an hour, during the whole of which time he did not put his hands in his +mitts, nor did he appear to feel the cold much, although the temperature +was 30 deg. below zero. + +On the 4th Ouligbuck set his gun for a wolf that had been prowling about +for the last few days. The usual mode is to fix the gun to two sticks +with its muzzle pointed to a bait placed at the distance of fifteen or +twenty yards, with a line attached to it, the other end of which is +fastened to the trigger; but Ouligbuck's plan was quite different from +this. He enclosed the gun in a small snow house, in such a manner that +there was nothing visible but the bait, which was not more than a foot +from the muzzle, so that the shot could scarcely miss the head of the +animal. When Ouligbuck went to his gun next morning, he saw the track of +the wolf, and followed it to the dog-kennel, in which he had comfortably +taken up his quarters; he immediately took the brute by the tail and +dragged him outside much against his will, when he was soon dispatched +with an ice-chisel. This animal was very large, but in the last stage of +starvation, with a severe arrow or gun-shot wound in one thigh. He +measured 5 feet 9 inches from the nose to the tip of the tail, (length +of tail 1 foot 7 inches,) and his height at the shoulder was 2 feet 8 +inches. + +On the 7th a man named Ak-kee-ou-lik, who had promised us four +seal-skins of oil, arrived and said that he could only let us have one, +because the bears had broken into his "cache" and devoured nearly all +its contents. This story I did not believe at the time, and I afterwards +found out that it was false. I felt a good deal annoyed at the man's not +keeping his promise, because we had depended much upon this supply for +fuel and light. To save the former, we had during part of last month +taken only one meal a-day, and discontinued the comfort of a cup of tea +with our evening repast. Of oil, our stock was so small, that we had +been forced to keep early and late hours, namely, lying occasionally +fourteen hours in bed, as we found that to sit up in a house in which +the temperature was some degrees below zero, without either light or +fire, was not very pleasant. Fortunately we all enjoyed excellent +health, and our few discomforts, instead of causing discontent, +furnished us with subjects of merriment. For instance, Hutchison about +this time had his knee frozen in bed, and I believe the poor fellow (who +by-the-bye was the softest of the party) was afterwards very sorry for +letting it be known, as he got so heartily laughed at for his +effeminacy. + +On the 9th, one of the Esquimaux women (wife of Keiktoo-oo) that came to +see us, had a brass wheel 1-1/3 or 2 inches in diameter fastened on her +dress as an ornament. It was evidently part of some instrument, probably +of some of those left by Sir John Ross at Victoria Harbour. I wished to +purchase it, but she would not part with it. + +15th.--Akkeeoulik brought over a large and heavy hoop of iron, which had +been at one time round the rudder head, bowsprit end, or mast head of a +vessel, as he said it had been taken off a large stick. I did not buy it +from him, as he was in disgrace for having disappointed me about the +oil. About 1 P.M. on the same day a number of the natives paid us a +visit, among whom were Ec-vu-chi, I-vit-chuk, and Ou-too-ouniak, three +of the most decent and best behaved of the party. They brought us a +quantity of venison, of which they had still a large stock, and some of +which they were now willing to dispose of, as they found that they had +more than was requisite for their own consumption. + +They had frequently seen Ooblooria, Ikmallik, and some of the other +Esquimaux mentioned by Sir John Ross, and I also further learnt that the +man with the wooden leg, named Tulluahiu, was dead, but how long since I +could not discover. + +The greater part of the men had been employed for the last fourteen days +digging away the snow from the boat to relieve her from the pressure, as +she was covered up to the depth of more than twelve feet. This was no +easy task; however, we managed it in the following manner. Having cut a +narrow opening through the snow down to the boat, we erected a tackle +over it and hoisted up the loose snow, as it was removed with spades and +axes. After excavating a space the full length of the boat, and clearing +the snow out of it, the bow and stern were alternately raised, and the +blocks of snow which were chopped from the top pushed underneath to +prevent its sinking down again. In this way the men could work without +exposure, and when the weather was stormy the hole was covered with a +sail, so that the snow-drift could not interfere with our labours. We +had yesterday got her close to the top of the snow roof, and to-day the +weather being fine she was hauled out and found to be uninjured, except +a small split in one of her thwarts caused by the great weight. She was +now placed in a situation where there was no danger of her being again +drifted over. + +The Esquimaux left us on the 17th, having behaved themselves in the most +exemplary manner. One of Akkeeoulik's wives (quite a young dame with a +most interesting squint) took this opportunity of leaving her husband +and putting herself under the care of her father Outoo-ouniak, the +alleged cause of her dissatisfaction being that she did not get enough +to eat. The disconsolate man followed the party for some distance in +hopes of persuading the runaway to return, but without success. + +Our fuel getting rather scarce, some of the men were sent to dig among +the snow for moss and heather, and they usually got as much in a day as +would cook one meal, but as the spring advanced, and the snow began to +disappear, two men could procure as much as we required. When the men +were taking a walk after divine service on the 21st, they saw the traces +of five deer going northward. + +On the 22nd Turner commenced making two sledges for our spring journeys. +They were to be from 6 to 7 feet long, 17 inches broad, and 7 inches +high. The only wood we had for this purpose was the battens with which +the inside of our boats was lined, it being necessary to nail three of +them together to form runners of the required height. A wolf was shot by +Ouligbuck during the night within 10 yards of the door of the house, and +six or eight more were seen at no great distance off in the morning. + +23rd. When taking my usual exercise, I came upon a white owl feasting on +a hare which it had killed after a severe struggle, to judge by the +marks on the snow. Half of it was already eaten. Another wolf was shot +on the 25th at a set gun, but there was nothing of him to be found in +the morning except a little hair and blood, all the rest having been +eaten or carried off by his companions. Some more deer tracks were seen +going northward. On the 26th the height of Beacon Hill was found to be +238 feet above the level of the sea at half-flood. + +Next day Nibitabo saw thirty deer and ten partridges, but only shot two +of the latter. The former were in the middle of a large plain, and took +good care to keep out of gun-shot, much to the annoyance of our +deer-hunter, who is one of the keenest sportsmen I have ever met with. + +There were two wolves wounded by Ouligbuck's gun last night, one of +which he caught before breakfast. I went with him after the other in the +forenoon, and got sight of him about three miles from the house. +Although his shoulder was fractured, he gave us a long race before we +ran him down, but at last we saw that he had begun to eat snow, a sure +sign that he was getting fagged. When I came up with him, so tired was +he that I was obliged to drive him on with the butt of my gun in order +to get him nearer home before knocking him on the head. At last we were +unable to make him move on by any means we could employ. Ferocity and +cowardice, often if not always, go together. How different was the +behaviour of this savage brute from that of the usually timid deer under +similar circumstances. The wolf crouched down and would not even look at +us, pull him about and use him as we might; whereas I never saw a deer +that did not attempt to defend itself when brought to bay, however +severely wounded it might be. + +On the 1st March one of our sledges that had been finished was tried, +and found to answer well. + +The deer were now steadily migrating northward, some being seen every +day, but there were none killed until the 11th, when one was shot by +Nibitabo; it proved to be a doe with young, the foetus being about the +size of a rabbit. The sun had so much power that my blankets by being +exposed to the air got completely dried, being the first time that they +had been free from ice for three months. + +Shortly after divine service on the 14th, Akkeeoulik, who had gone some +days before to his father-in-law's to endeavour to reclaim his better +half, returned with his lost treasure, one of the most lazy and dirty of +the whole party, and a most arrant thief to boot. Two deer were shot on +the 15th, and two more on the 18th. Deer-hunting had become very +different from what it was in the autumn. + +The greater part of the hollows which favoured our approach in the +latter season were now filled up with snow, which, from wasting away +underneath, made so much noise under foot that in calm weather it was +almost impossible to get within shot. The deer were besides continually +moving about in the most zig-zag directions, and were so much startled +at the report of a gun that it was evident they had been a good deal +hunted during the winter. + +On the 20th Nibitabo was affected with inflammation of the eyes, which +was relieved by dropping laudanum into them. On the 26th we made a new +water hole on the lake, when the ice was found to be 6 feet 10 inches +thick. I measured the dimensions of an Esquimaux canoe, and found them +as follows:--length 21 feet, breadth amidships 19 inches, and depth +where the person sits 9-1/2 inches. The timbers are one-half or +five-eighths of an inch square, and placed three inches apart near the +centre of the canoe, but gradually increased to five inches at each end. +The cross-bars are three-quarters of an inch thick and a foot from each +other; these were morticed into gunwales 2-1/2 inches broad by +half-an-inch thick, the whole being covered with seal skin in the usual +manner. Altogether it was much more neatly finished and lighter than any +I had seen in Hudson's Straits; but the natives here have not attained +the same dexterity in managing them, as they cannot turn their canoes +without assistance after being capsized. + +On the 31st Ouligbuck, who had been absent all night, came home at 1 +P.M. very faint from the effects of a severe wound he had received on +the arm by falling on a large dagger which he usually carried. On +cutting off his clothes I found that the dagger had passed completely +through the right arm a couple of inches above the elbow joint. + +In the evening Shimakuk, who is a conjuror, came in, and as Ouligbuck +wished to try the effect of his charms on the injured part, I of course +had no objections. The whole process consisted in putting some questions +(the purport of which I could not learn) to the patient in a very loud +voice, then muttering something in a very low tone, and stopping +occasionally to give two or three puffs of the breath on the wounded +arm. During these proceedings the men could with difficulty keep their +gravity; nor could I blame them, for the scene was irresistibly +ludicrous. + +I observed that one of the conjuror's dogs was lame, or rather very weak +in the legs, and on asking him the cause, he said that it arose from +having eaten trout livers when young. + +The latter part of the month of March was spent, by the majority of the +party, in making preparations for our journey, over the ice and snow, to +the northward, it having been my intention to set out on the 1st April; +but the accident to Ouligbuck prevented this, as I did not wish to leave +him until I saw that his wound was in a fair way of healing. Ivitchuk, +our intended companion, had not yet made his appearance. + +On the 3rd April the thermometer rose above zero, for the first time +since the 12th December. + +As the aurora was seldom noticed after this date, I may here make a few +remarks on this subject. It was often visible during the winter, and +usually made its appearance first to the southward in the form of a +faint yellow or straw-coloured arch, which gradually rose up towards the +zenith. During our stay at Fort Hope I never witnessed a finer display +of this strange phenomenon than I had done at York Factory, nor did it +on any occasion affect the horizontal needle as I had seen it do during +the previous winter there. + +The Esquimaux, like the Indians, assert that the aurora produces a +distinctly audible sound, and the generality of Orkneymen and Zetlanders +maintain the same opinion, although for my own part I cannot say that I +ever heard any sound from it. A fine display, particularly if the +movements are rapid, is very often succeeded by stormy or snowy weather, +but I have never been able to trace any coincidence between the +direction of its motions, and that of the wind. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + Set out for the north--Equipment of the + party--Snow-blindness--Musk-ox--Mode of killing it--Reach the + coast near Point Hargrave--Ice rough along shore--Pass Cape Lady + Pelly--Unfavourable weather--Slow progress--Put on short + allowance--River Ki-ting-nu-yak--Pemmican placed _en + cache_--Cape Weynton--Colvile Bay--High hill--Dogs giving + way--Work increased--Snow-house-building--Point Beaufort--Point + Siveright--Keith Bay--Cape Barclay--Another _cache_--Leave the + coast and proceed across the land--River A-ma-took--Dogs knocked + up--Lake Ballenden--Harrison islands--Party left to procure + provisions--Proceed with two of the men--Cape Berens--Relative + effects of an eastern and western aspect--Halkett Inlet--Reach + Lord Mayor's Bay--Take formal possession of the + country--Commence our return to winter quarters--Friendly + interview with the natives--Obtain supplies of provisions from + them--View of Pelly Bay--Trace the shore to the eastward--Travel + by night--Explore the coast of Simpson's Peninsula--Arrive at + Fort Hope--Occurrences during the absence of the exploring + party--Character of the Esquimaux Ivitchuk. + +Everything having been for some days in readiness for our contemplated +journey, I only awaited the arrival of our Esquimaux ally Ivitchuk. He +made his appearance on the 4th April in company with his wife, his +father and brother, and their wives. I could have well dispensed with +the presence of the party, excepting the man who was to go with us, as +there were many things to be attended to. It is strange that throughout +the winter, with one or two exceptions, the visits of these people have +happened on Sundays. Our intended travelling companion having received a +coat from one, inexpressibles from another, leggings from a third, &c., +was soon completely dressed "a la voyageur," not certainly to the +improvement of the outer man, but much to his own satisfaction. +Ouligbuck's arm being now in a fair way of recovery, there was no cause +of detention. + +The party, consisting, besides myself, of George Flett, John Corrigal, +William Adamson, Ouligbuck's son, and Ivitchuk, started early on the +morning of the 5th. We were accompanied by two sledges, each drawn by +four dogs, on which our luggage and provisions were stowed. Our stores +consisted of three bags of pemmican, seventy reindeer tongues, one +half-hundred weight of flour, some tea, chocolate, and sugar, and a +little alcohol and oil for fuel. At first the weather was far from +favourable for travelling, as there was a gale of wind with snow, but +about 8 A.M. the sky cleared up, and the day became as fine as could +have been wished. The sun shone forth with great brightness, surrounded +by a halo of the most brilliant colours, with four parhelia that +rivalled the sun himself. Our route was the same as that followed in +the boat last autumn; but although the snow was hard-packed and not +rough, our sledges were too heavy to allow us to travel quickly. +Numerous bands of deer crossed our path, and enlivened the scene at the +same time that they kept up the spirit of our dogs. Our latitude at +noon, by an observation of the sun, was 66 deg. 42' N., variation of the +compass 64 deg. W. Between 7 and 8 P.M., both dogs and men being somewhat +fatigued with their day's work, we stopped on the east side of Christie +Lake to build our snow hut, which our Esquimaux friend was so long in +completing on account of the bad state of the snow for building, that it +was 11 o'clock before we got into our blankets. The situation of our +encampment was in latitude 66 deg. 49' 30" N., longitude 87 deg. 20' W. + +6th.--We passed a comfortable night, and it was 6 o'clock in the morning +before we were again on the march; three hours more brought us to the +northern extremity of the lake, where we had left a bag of flour "en +cache" the previous autumn. Two men who had accompanied us, for the +purpose of taking the flour back to our winter quarters, returned from +this place. + +A little before noon we arrived at the snow hut of the two Esquimaux, +Shimakuk and Kei-ik-too-oo, who, with their families, had been staying +some time here angling trout. I had agreed with those people that they +should build a large snow house for our accommodation, having expected +to reach them at the end of our first day's journey. In this we were +disappointed; but, as the contracting party had prepared a fine roomy +dwelling for us, they received the stipulated price--a clasp knife. At +noon, when still on the lake, the latitude 66 deg. 58' 16" N. was +observed. + +Kei-ik-too-oo having come with us for a short distance, I proposed that +he should get his sledge and dogs and accompany us for two days; this, +for a dagger as a consideration, he gladly agreed to do, and immediately +went off at a great rate to bring up his team. Being quite light he soon +overtook us, and was not long in getting a heavy load on. I soon saw the +advantage of his iced runners over the iron ones, and determined to have +ours done in the same way on the first opportunity; on this account we +stopped sooner than we would otherwise have done, having travelled +sixteen geographical miles. We found a number of old Esquimaux houses, +one of which we prepared for our use by clearing out the snow that had +drifted into it. Whilst the two Esquimaux were icing the sledges, the +remainder of the men were cooking and preparing our bed; the latter +being a very simple process, merely requiring the snow to be well +smoothed, and one or two hairy deer-skins laid over it to prevent the +heat of the body from thawing the snow. The weather was fair all day, +and except in the morning when the thermometer was -16 deg., it was +rather warm for walking. After we got into our lodgings a strong breeze +sprung up with thick drift. Some of the party were slightly affected +with snow-blindness. + +7th.--The weather was gloomy and dark this morning, with the thermometer +at +5 deg. when we started at half-past 3. Our sledges ran much easier +since they had received a coating of ice on their runners, although they +were not yet equal to Kei-ik-too-oo's. We followed the same route as that +taken by the boat last autumn until 9 o'clock, when being two miles from +the sea we struck across land towards Point Hargrave; at noon we were in +latitude 67 deg. 16' 51" N., variation of the compass 74 deg. 30' W. We +found the snow much softer than it was on the lakes and river, and our +progress was consequently much slower than in the first part of the day. + +At 2 P.M. we arrived at a small lake, about four miles from Point +Hargrave. As this was the only fresh-water lake we were likely to meet +with for some time, I determined to stop for the purpose of renewing the +icing on the sledges, which had been a good deal broken by the +irregularities of the road. Notwithstanding that we had gone only +eighteen miles our dogs were very tired, and I began to fear that they +would not hold out so well as was expected. Our Esquimaux friend was to +leave us the next day, and as his sledge was light he expected to reach +his house the same day. This is a favourite resort of the musk-ox as +soon as the snow disappears. The mode of killing these animals is the +same as that described by Sir J. C. Ross as practised in Boothia Felix +by the Esquimaux: being brought to bay with dogs, they are either shot +with arrows or speared. + +When we resumed our journey at 5 o'clock next morning, there was a +strong breeze right ahead with thick drift, the temperature being +6 deg. +A walk of three miles brought us to the coast about a mile from Point +Hargrave. There was a great deal of rough ice along the shore, which +gave both men and dogs much hard work to drag the sledges over. It had +now begun to snow, and the drift was so thick that we could not follow +the smoothest route; we consequently advanced but slowly, taking four +hours to gain five and a half miles, which brought us to Cape Lady +Pelly. + +Since leaving Fort Hope, I had measured every foot of the ground we had +passed over with a line, but now the increased difficulty of the route +made it requisite that all hands should be employed in dragging the +sledges. One of our best dogs became quite useless, and although +unharnessed would not walk, so that rather than lose the poor animal, we +dragged him on the snow several miles before reaching our intended +encampment. + +After passing Cape Lady Pelly the coast turns rather more to the +westward. The weather continued very unfavourable all day, there being +much snow-drift; we however advanced seven miles farther, and at 4 P.M. +built our night's lodgings on the ice, a few hundred yards from the +shore. In an hour and a half we were comfortably housed. Finding that +our day's journeys were much shorter than I had anticipated, our +allowance of food for supper was somewhat reduced. The thermometer in +the evening stood at +11 deg. Our snow hut was situated in latitude 67 +deg. 35' N., longitude 87 deg. 51' W. both by account. + +After a sound night's rest we resumed our journey at 5 in the morning of +the 9th. There was some snow falling, but the wind had decreased, and +the temperature of the air was +2 deg. Our course was N.W. by W. for three +miles, when we came to a low point formed of shingle and mud, with some +rocky rising grounds a few miles inland. This point received the name of +Swanston, after a friend. A short time before noon the sky cleared, and +very satisfactory observations for latitude and variation of the compass +were obtained, the former being 67 deg. 40' 53" N., the latter 71 deg. 30' +W. The dog that had been unharnessed the day before had become still +weaker, and as I did not wish to leave him to the mercy of the wolves, +he was shot. We offered some of his flesh to the other dogs, but there +was only one of them that would eat it. + +Having walked fourteen miles, we arrived at a small river 70 yards wide, +and, although it was only half-past three, we commenced building our +snow house. We here found a number of stones which allowed us to place +"en cache" half a bag of pemmican, some flour, shoes, &c., for our +homeward journey. The river, which is called Ki-ting-nu-yak, was frozen +to the bottom, but in summer it is a favourable fishing station, both +salmon and a small species of the white fish being found. I did not see +any of the latter, but from the description given by the Esquimaux I +have no doubt that they frequent this part of the coast. + +The evening was beautifully clear, and the thermometer fell to -16 deg. + +10th.--There was a thick haze this morning with light variable airs of +wind; temperature 6 deg. below zero. By striking straight out from land +for a mile or two, we got upon somewhat smoother ice, and consequently +made more progress. We passed a number of hills, not of any great +elevation however, and at noon we were opposite one named Wiachat, +fully 500 feet high, and some miles from the coast. Here the latitude +67 deg. 53' 24" was observed, and the coast turned off to the westward, +forming a point which was named Cape Weynton. We now commenced crossing +a bay 5 or 6 miles deep, and apparently 12 wide, which received the name +of Colvile, in honour of the Deputy Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company. +A mouse or lemming crossed our path, and the dogs, although they +appeared to be scarcely able to put one foot before another, set off at +full speed in chase, and before any one could interfere to save it, the +poor little animal was quivering in the jaws of the foremost. + +Being unable to reach the north side of Colvile Bay, at 4 P.M. we took +up our quarters on the ice in our usual snug lodgings, in latitude 68 +deg. 2' N., longitude 88 deg. 21' W. A high hill bearing west of us, and +distant eight miles, called Oo-me-we-yak by the natives, was named after +the late John George M'Tavish, Esq., Chief Factor. Several of our dogs +had become very weak--so much so that during the latter part of the day's +journey they did little or nothing, thus giving us all much additional +work. They also required much more food to keep them in good condition, +than the dogs generally used in the fur countries. We only walked +sixteen miles this day; and I may here remark that all the distances +mentioned in this journal are given in geographical miles. + +Our usual mode of preparing lodgings for the night was as follows:--As +soon as we had selected a spot for our snow house, our Esquimaux, +assisted by one or more of the men, commenced cutting out blocks of +snow. When a sufficient number of these had been raised, the builder +commenced his work, his assistants supplying him with the material. A +good roomy dwelling was thus raised in an hour, if the snow was in a +good state for building. Whilst our principal mason was thus occupied, +another of the party was busy erecting a kitchen, which, although our +cooking was none of the most delicate or extensive, was still a +necessary addition to our establishment, had it been only to thaw snow. +As soon as the snow hut was completed, our sledges were unloaded, and +every thing eatable (including parchment skin and moose skin shoes, +which had now become favourite articles with the dogs) taken inside. Our +bed was next made, and by the time the snow was thawed or the water +boiled, as the case might be, we were all ready for supper. When we used +alcohol for fuel (as we usually did in stormy weather) no kitchen was +required. + +On the following morning we started about the usual hour, and directing +our course nearly north, a walk of five miles brought us to the opposite +side of Colvile Bay, which terminated in a long point covered with +boulders of granite and debris of limestone, and having a number of +stone marks set up on it. To this point the name of Beaufort was given, +in honour of the gallant officer who, with so much advantage to his +country and to nautical science, presides over the hydrographical +department of the Admiralty. + +Five miles farther we reached another low point called by the Esquimaux +E-to-uke, but renamed by me Point Siveright. The coast, now turning +slightly to the westward of north, continued in nearly a straight line +during the rest of this day's march. + +We were now tracing the shores of a considerable bay, as the land after +taking a sudden bend to the eastward followed a south-east direction as +far as visible. At 4 P.M. we stopped and built our snow hut; the day +had been fine throughout, and the temperature in the evening was 16 deg. +below zero. The shores of the bay are very low, with the exception of a +high bluff point bearing S.E. by E. 6-1/2 miles (by trigonometrical +measurement). The point was named Cape Barclay, in honour of the +Secretary of the Hudson's Bay Company, and the bay was called after my +much respected friend, George Keith, Esq., Chief-Factor. + +Since passing Colvile Bay the coast had become much lower and more +level, giving every indication of a limestone country. Being anxious to +save our fuel as much as possible, we filled two small kettles and a +bladder with snow and took them to bed with us, for the purpose of +procuring water to drink--a plan which was frequently adopted +afterwards. Our dogs had now become most ravenous; although they +received what was considered a fair allowance of provisions, everything +that came in their way, such as shoes, leather mitts, and even a worsted +belt, was eaten, much to the annoyance of the owners and to the +merriment of the rest of the party. We enjoyed a cold supper of pemmican +and water;--as we could afford a hot meal only once a day, we preferred +taking it in the morning. + +12th.--Being informed by our Esquimaux companion that, by crossing over +land in a north-west direction to a large bay which he had formerly +visited, we should shorten our distance considerably, I determined on +adopting the plan proposed. Our kettles of snow were found rather cool +companions, but there was a little water formed. The bladder having been +either leaky, or not properly tied, gave me and my next neighbour a +partial cold bath. The morning was delightful, being clear and calm, +with a temperature of -22 deg. We started at half-past 5, and after +having walked a short distance came to some loose pieces of granite and +limestone, which afforded an opportunity, not to be lost, for making a +deposit of provisions for our return journey. + +After tracing the shores of the bay for three miles and a half further +north to latitude 68 deg. 18' N., longitude by account 88 deg. 26' W., +we left the coast and proceeded over land in a north-north-west +direction. Walking became more difficult, and the snow was too soft to +support the sledges, the ice on the runners of which was now entirely +worn off. A mile's walk brought us to a small river with high mud banks, +and frozen to the bottom: it is named A-ma-took by the natives, and +takes its rise from a lake of the same name about a day's journey west +of us. We next passed between two elevations covered with limestone. I +ascended that on the right-hand or to the east of us, it being the +highest and having two columns of limestone, the one fourteen, the +other nine feet high, at its western extremity. There were many places +here denuded of snow, showing that the sun had already acquired great +power. At noon we were in latitude 68 deg. 22' 19'' N., variation of the +compass 79 deg. 35' W. An hour after, we reached a small lake, where we +halted on account of our dogs being quite knocked up, although we had +only advanced twelve miles; I therefore ordered a hut to be built +that we might afford the dogs time to recruit, and also have the +sledge-runners put in order. We found the ice on the lake 4 feet 8 +inches thick, but we were disappointed to find that there were no fish +to be caught. We here enjoyed water ad libitum, a luxury that had been +rather sparingly dealt out for the last few days. Ivitchuk drank as much +as would have satisfied an ox. The thermometer in the evening was 9 deg. +below zero. A few tracks of foxes were here seen, but no signs of deer +or musk-oxen. This part of the country appeared miserably barren in +every respect. + +On the morning of the 13th we commenced our march at 2.30 A.M.; the +weather was fine with light airs from the north-west: thermometer -15 +deg. At 5 o'clock we passed a small lake about a mile and a half long, +and an hour afterwards reached another of considerable size. Tung-a-lik, +as the lake is called by the Esquimaux, is 7 miles long due north and +south, and varying in breadth from a mile to a mile and a half. Near +its centre was a curious-looking island, about 7 feet high and 200 +yards in extent, covered with granite boulders and limestone. Its +form is as nearly as possible that of a semicircle, the concavity being +towards the south. To this lake I gave the name of Ballenden, after a +much valued friend. When near the north end of Ballenden Lake (over +which we had travelled rapidly, the snow being both hard and smooth), +we turned more to the west. At noon we arrived at a lake which was to +be our resting place for the night, as, although small, it was said to +contain both trout and salmon; but, after cutting through five feet of +ice, we did not succeed in catching any, although we tempted them with +a bait from a buffalo hide. In the afternoon the weather became very +gloomy; a strong breeze sprang up accompanied by a thick haze, and the +thermometer rose to -11 deg. By meridian observation our latitude was +68 deg. 36' 58" N., variation of the compass 78 deg. W., longitude by +account 88 deg. 49" W. + +14th.--This morning was so stormy, with thick drift and snow, that we +could not start so early as usual; it however became more moderate at 5 +o'clock, and we were able to continue our route, although the guide +seemed much puzzled to keep in the proper direction, there being nothing +to serve as marks in this wilderness of snow. + +In the afternoon the weather again became worse, and the temperature +fell to -12 deg., which with a strong head wind made it sufficiently +cold. I felt it probably more than the others, as I had to stop often +to take bearings, and in consequence was once or twice nearly losing +the party altogether. We trudged on manfully until 5 P.M., when it +cleared up for two or three minutes, and we obtained a distant glimpse +of some high islands in the bay for which we were bound, called +Ak-koo-lee-gu-wiak by the natives. At half-past 5 we commenced +building our snow house. This was far from pleasant work, as the wind +was piercingly cold, and the fine particles of snow drift penetrated +our clothes everywhere; we, however, enjoyed ourselves the more when +we got under shelter and took our supper of the staple commodities, +pemmican and water. Latitude 68 deg. 51' N., longitude 89 deg. 16' W. + +15th.--It blew a complete storm all night, but we were as snug and +comfortable, in our snow hive, as if we had been lodged in the best +house in England. At 5.30 the wind moderated to a gale, but the drift +was still so thick that it was impossible to see any distance before us, +particularly when looking to windward, and that unfortunately was the +direction in which we had to go. The temperature was 21 deg. below +zero,--a temperature which, as all Arctic travellers know, feels much +colder, when there is a breeze of wind, than one of -60 deg. or -70 deg. +when the weather is calm. But there was the prospect of both food and +fuel before us, for seals were said to abound in the bay and heather +on the islands of Akkooleeguwiak. Such temptations were not to be +resisted; so we muffled ourselves well up and set out. It was one of +the worst days I had ever travelled in, and I could not take the +bearings of our route more than once or twice. + +To make matters worse, one of our dogs, a fine lively little creature, +that was a great favourite with us all, became unable to walk +unharnessed, and the men having enough to do with the sledges, I +dragged, carried, and coaxed it on for a few miles; but finding that +some parts of my face were freezing, and that my companions were so far +ahead as to be out of sight, I was reluctantly compelled to leave the +poor animal to its fate. + +After a most devious course of nearly twelve miles, we came to the +shores of the bay. The banks were of mud and shingle, about sixty or +seventy feet high, and so steep that it was some time before we could +find a place by which to get down to the ice. We directed our steps +among much rough ice towards the highest of the group of islands named +Coga-ur-ga-wiak, apparently six miles distant, and encamped near its +western end in a little well-sheltered bay. All the party, even the +Esquimaux, had got severely frost-bitten in the face, but as it was not +much more than skin deep, this gave us little concern. When our house +was nearly built, a search was commenced among the snow for heather, and +we were so fortunate as to procure enough in an hour and a-half to cook +us some pemmican and flour, in the form of a kind of soup or pottage. + +We were all very glad to get into our blankets as soon as possible. The +weather became somewhat finer in the evening, but it drifted as much as +ever. The thermometer was -16 deg. Our latitude was 68 deg. 53' 44" N., +longitude 89 deg. 55' 30" west. Notwithstanding that I carried my watch +next to my skin the cold stopped it, and I could not tell exactly the +time of our arrival at the island, but I believed it was near 2 P.M. + +On the 16th, a gale of wind from N.W. with thick drift, and the +thermometer at -20 deg., would have prevented our travelling had I +intended it; but as I purposed leaving some of the men and all the dogs +here to recruit, I wished to find out the Esquimaux (who we knew were +in the neighbourhood, as the recent foot tracks of two had been seen on +the shore the day before), and obtain from them some seals' flesh and +blubber for our use. Flett, Ivitchuk, and the interpreter were sent on +this mission, but they returned in the evening unsuccessful. The drift +was so thick in the bay that they could not see to any distance. In the +meantime Corrigal and Adamson had been collecting fuel, and I being +under the lee of the island obtained observations for latitude and +variation of the compass, the former being 68 deg. 53' 44" north as +above, the latter 87 deg. 40' west. + +I prepared for an early start the next morning in company with Flett and +Corrigal, for the purpose, if possible, of reaching Sir John Ross's most +southerly discoveries, which could not now be distant more than two +days' journey. + +The party that were to be left behind had orders to kill seals, (for +which purpose Ivitchuk was furnished with a spear,) to trade provisions +from the Esquimaux if they saw any, and, above all, to use as little of +our present stock as possible. All that we could afford to take with us +was four days' scanty allowance. I had for the last week carried my +instruments, books, &c., in all about thirty-five pounds weight; and I +now intended to do the same. + +The morning of the 17th was stormy and cold (-22 deg.), and we did not +start until near 6 o'clock; when we had got well clear of the S.W. end +of the island, we found the ice smooth, and the snow on it hard-packed. +As the men had but a light load we travelled fast, our course being +nearly N.W. towards the farthest visible land in that direction. A +brisk walk of seventeen miles brought us, an hour before noon, to the +shore near a high point formed of dark gray granite, which I named Cape +Berens, after one of the Directors of the Company. It is situated in +latitude 69 deg. 4' 12" N. by observation, and longitude 90 deg. 35' 48" +W. by account. The shore, which was steep and rocky, ran nearly in a +straight line, and in the same direction that we had been already +travelling. At 3 P.M. we came to two narrow points in a small bay, +between which we built our snow-house. To these points I gave the name +of "the Twins." Their latitude is 69 deg. 13' 14" N., longitude 90 deg. +55' 30" W. + +There being one or two hills at a short distance from us, I ascended +one of them to look for fuel, and to gain a view of our future route. I +obtained neither of these objects, but fell in with some lead ore, +specimens of which were brought away. + +On arriving at the snow-hut I found it nearly completed, but so small +that there was little prospect of a comfortable night's rest. Having but +a very small quantity of alcohol for fuel, our supper was a cold one. +Thermometer in the evening 19 deg. below zero. Flett (one of Dease and +Simpson's best men) showed symptoms of fatigue, at which I was much +surprised, as, from what I had heard of him, I fancied he would have +tired out any of the party. + +18th.--My anticipations of passing an uncomfortable night were fully +realized. It might be thought that, as our whole bedding consisted of +one blanket, and a hairy deer-skin to put between us and the snow, there +was reason enough for my not sleeping soundly; but this was not the +case, as I often passed nights both before and after this with as little +covering, but never found myself cold. We started at 3 A.M. The morning +was fine but hazy, with a light air of wind from N.W. Thermometer -3 deg. +The walking was still fair; and I may here remark, that wherever the +land had an eastern exposure the ice was smooth, there being little or +none of the former year forced up along the shore; whenever the coast +was exposed to the west, the contrary was the case. + +Our course was nearly that of the previous day, but a little more to +the westward. After walking twelve miles we came to what proved to be +the head of a deep inlet, the western shore of which we had been +tracing, and which I named after John Halkett, Esq., one of the +Directors of the Hudson's Bay Company, whose son (Lieut. P. A. Halkett, +R.N.,) is the ingenious inventor of the portable air-boat, which ought +to be the travelling companion of every explorer. Two reindeer were seen +here. + +As there could be no doubt that, if my longitude was correct, I must now +be near the Lord Mayor's Bay of Sir John Ross, I decided on striking +across land, as nearly north as possible, instead of following the +coast. The men having had a short time to rest, we commenced a tiresome +march over land, the snow being in some places both deep and soft. We +crossed three small lakes, and at noon, when near the middle of another +about four miles long, an excellent meridian observation of the sun gave +latitude 69 deg. 26' 1" N. When we had walked three miles more we came to +another small lake; and here, as there was yet no appearance of the sea, +I ordered my men to prepare our lodgings, whilst I went on alone to +endeavour to discover the coast. + +A walk of twenty minutes brought me to an inlet not more than a quarter +of a mile wide. This I traced to the westward for upwards of a league, +when my course was again obstructed by land. There were some high rocks +near at hand which I ascended, and from the summit I thought I could +distinguish rough ice in the desired direction. With renewed hopes I +slid down a declivity, plunging among snow, scrambling over rocks, and +through rough ice until I gained more level ground. I then directed my +steps to some rising ground which I found to be close to the seashore. +From the spot on which I now stood, as far as the eye could reach to the +north-westward, lay a large extent of ice-covered sea, studded with +innumerable islands. Lord Mayor's Bay was before me, and the islands +were those named by Sir John Ross the Sons of the Clergy of the Church +of Scotland. + +The isthmus which connects the land to the north with the continent is +only one mile broad, and even in this short space there are three small +ponds. From the great number of stone marks set up (the only ones that I +saw on this part of the coast), I am led to infer that this is a +deer-pass in the autumn, and consequently a favourite resort of the +natives. Its latitude is 69 deg. 31' N., longitude by account 91 deg. +29' 30" W. This latter differs only a mile or two from that of the same +place as laid down by Sir James C. Ross, with whose name I distinguished +the isthmus, calling the land to the northward Sir John Ross's Peninsula. +After going down to the ice in Hardy Bay, and offering with a humble and +grateful heart thanks to Him who had thus brought our journey so far to +a successful termination, I began to retrace my steps towards my +companions. + +At a late hour I reached our snow hut, an excellent roomy one, in which +we could lie in any position; no trifling comfort after a walk of more +than forty miles over a rough road. + +It was 7 o'clock the following morning before we started. The weather +was pleasant, and the thermometer 12 deg. below zero. Having taken +possession of our discoveries with the usual formalities, we traced the +inlet eastward, the shores of which were steep and rugged, in some +places precipitous. When we had walked four miles the land on our left +turned up to the northward, leaving an opening in that direction more +than two miles wide, bounded on the south-east by one or more islands. +This inlet I named after that celebrated navigator and discoverer Sir +John Franklin, whose protracted absence in the Arctic Sea is at present +exciting so much interest and anxiety throughout England. The most +distant visible point was called Cape Thomas after a relative. The land +on our right still trended to the east for two miles, and then turned to +the south. After walking seven miles in this last direction, and passing +two small bays and as many points, we stopped for the night. Here we +were fairly puzzled about the proper route, there being so many inlets +and small bays that it was impossible to tell which was the one we ought +to follow. The day had become very warm, the thermometer rising as high +as +26 deg. in the sun, and as we were now travelling south, we found +the reflection from the snow much more painful to the eyes than when +proceeding north. The latitude of our snow house was 69 deg. 22' N., +longitude 91 deg. 3' W., both by account. The thermometer -19 deg. in +the evening; cold water and pemmican for supper, and kettles of snow for +bedfellows. + +The morning of the 20th was cold, but calm; thermometer -24 deg. We +commenced our day's march at 2h. 30m. A.M., and in twenty minutes +arrived at the head of the inlet where I hoped to find a passage. Seeing +that it would be madness to trace all the indentations of this most +irregular coast, (for had a couple of days' stormy weather ensued we +should all have run the risk of starving,) I struck over land towards +our snow hut of the 17th. + +This was the most fatiguing and at the same time the most ludicrous +march we had experienced. As our route lay across several ranges of +hills, we had no sooner climbed up one side than we had to slide down +the other. To descend was not always an easy matter, as there were often +large stones in the way, past which we required to steer with great +care, or if a collision was unavoidable, to manage so as not to injure +ourselves. Corrigal appeared to be an old hand at this sort of work, and +I had had some practice, but poor Flett, who had begun to suffer much +from inflammation of the eyes, got many queer falls, and was once or +twice placed in such situations with his head down hill, his heels up, +and the strap of his bundle round his neck, that it would have been +impossible for him to get up by his own unaided exertions. + +After crossing a number of small lakes, we arrived at the steep shores +of Halkett Inlet about 11 o'clock, having been eight hours in walking as +many miles. We crossed the inlet, and as it had now begun to blow a +fresh breeze we stopped at a small bay, well sheltered, to take some +rest, and obtain a meridian observation of the sun. The latitude was 69 +deg. 16' 44" N., variation of the compass 76 deg. 45' W. We were so +fortunate as to find here some heather by scraping away the snow, and +we enjoyed the luxury of a cup of chocolate, which refreshed us very +much. + +We now resumed our march, and the walking being good and the day fine we +made rapid progress, although somewhat detained by the lameness and +blindness of Flett, who stumbled at every inequality of the ground, and +received some severe falls. After advancing two miles we came opposite +to a clear opening to the north-eastward, in which nothing but rough ice +could be seen. This was evidently the termination of the continent in +this direction. At 4 P.M. we arrived at our snow hut in the small bay +between the Twins. It was not my intention to remain here all night, but +the lameness of our companion prevented us from continuing our journey. +Whilst I went to search for fuel, Corrigal enlarged our snow house. I +found a little fuel, with which we contrived to thaw as much snow as +gave each of us nearly half-a-pint of water. The remainder of our +provisions, amounting to a few ounces of pemmican each, was fairly +divided, and having eaten part of this we betook ourselves to rest. + +21st.--Having passed a far from pleasant night, and used the last of our +alcohol to procure some water as a diluent for our not very plentiful +breakfast, we started at a little before 2 A.M. There was a strong +breeze from N.W. with thick drift occasionally, and a temperature of +-20 deg., but the wind being on our backs it was rather an advantage +than otherwise. We directed our course straight for the island on which +we had left the rest of the party, and which could be seen at intervals +when the snow drift cleared away. + +Flett being still very lame, I desired Corrigal to remain in company +with him, whilst I went on alone to order some provisions to be prepared +by the time they came to the snow house. The ice being smooth, and the +snow on its surface hard, I made rapid progress until within about five +miles of our temporary home. Here I observed some strange looking +figures on the ice, which the thickness of the weather prevented me from +seeing distinctly. On a nearer approach I found that what had puzzled me +was a number of Esquimaux spears, lances, &c. stuck on a heap of snow; +and immediately afterwards four Esquimaux came from behind a mound of +ice, holding up their hands to show that they were unarmed. The natives +of this part of the coast bear a very bad character, and are much feared +by their countrymen of Repulse Bay. I therefore was not quite sure what +sort of reception I might meet with, as my men were not in sight and I +was quite unarmed. But to anticipate evil is often the most likely way +to cause it, so I went directly up, and saluted them with their usual +term for peace (teyma), shaking hands with all after the fashion of our +own country. They all shouted out Manig Tomig, which are the words +mentioned by Sir John Ross as the form of salutation employed by the +natives of Boothia Felix. A very animated conversation soon ensued, in +which I bore but a very small share; but as I appeared to be a good +listener, and put in a negative or affirmative every now and then when +there appeared to be a necessity for saying something, we got on very +well together. + +We were soon joined by an old woman who took upon herself the office of +mistress of the ceremonies, and commenced with great volubility to give +me the names of the men, which were as follows:--A-li-ne-a-yuk, Kag-vik, +Tag-na-koo and Nu-li-a-yuk; the first being old, the second middle aged, +and the two last young men of about twenty-five. They were all married, +and were much more forward in their manners and dirty in their persons +and dress, than our friends of Repulse Bay. They were very anxious for +me to enter their huts, but this I thought it prudent to decline, and +after much persuasion and promises of knives, needles, beads, &c. I +prevailed on them to follow me to our snow house. + +A little more than an hour brought me to our encampment, where I found +Adamson quite well but all alone, Ivitchuk and the boy being out +looking for seals. They had not met with any Esquimaux, and no animals +of any kind had been killed, Ivitchuk standing so much in awe of his +countrymen that he was afraid to stay out seal-hunting during the night, +which is the only time that these animals are to be caught at that +season of the year. I found that much more of our stock of provisions +had been used than there was any occasion for--in fact, the appearance +of the men shewed that they had been on full allowance. + +About an hour after my arrival, Corrigal and Flett made their +appearance, accompanied by the four Esquimaux that I had seen and a boy. +A few trifling presents were made them, and they promised to return on +the following day with oil, blubber, &c. to barter with us. It blew a +gale all the evening, with the thermometer 21 deg. below zero. + +The morning of the 22d was fine with a temperature of -20 deg., but +during the day it blew hard with drift. Our party kept in bed rather +longer than usual, and we were visited by the Esquimaux before we had +got up. They brought a quantity of seal's flesh, blood, and blubber, +which I was about to purchase from them when the thermometer was +reported as missing. I immediately shut the box containing the +valuables, and intimated that they should receive nothing unless the +thermometer was given up. After about ten minutes' delay one of the +women brought in the lost article, saying, that the dogs had pulled it +down and carried it off,--a very probable story certainly; but having +obtained what I wanted I cared little who might be the thief. + +A brisk traffic was soon commenced for oil, seals, blubber, flesh and +blood, for which knives, files, beads, needles, &c. were given. We also +obtained half a dozen dried salmon and a small piece of dried musk-ox +flesh, both very old and mouldy. These Esquimaux were found to be much +more difficult to deal with than our friends of Repulse Bay, being very +forward and much addicted to stealing. They had undoubtedly had +communication with the natives of Boothia Felix, as there were many of +their weapons, and parts of their sledges formed of oak. I also observed +some small pieces of mahogany among them. One of the strangers proved to +be an uncle of Ivitchuk. + +It continued to blow hard in the evening with a temperature of -15 deg. +Preparations were made for examining the shores of the bay in which, by +Esquimaux report, we now were. + +23d.--This was another stormy and cold day until the afternoon, when it +became fair. We were again visited by our neighbours, who brought us a +further and very acceptable supply of seals' flesh and blood, and also +two fine dogs to complete our teams, one or two of those we had being +still very weak. + +When about to make a tour round the bay, I learnt from one of the +natives that a complete view of its shores could be obtained from the +summit of the island on which we were. I found also that a chart which +he made of the bay agreed very closely with one drawn by the natives of +Repulse Bay, who had visited the place. The evening being beautifully +clear, I took with me the Esquimaux, one of the men, and the interpreter +to the highest point of the island, from which I obtained a distinct +view of the whole bay, except a small portion immediately under the sun. +The shores were high and regular in their outline, and being, in most +places, to a certain extent denuded of snow, they were much more clearly +seen than could have been expected. The bay appeared to extend 16 or 18 +miles slightly to the east of south, and was about 11 miles wide near +its head. Its surface was studded with a number of dark-coloured rocky +islands. The highest of these was the one on which we were staying, and +was found by measurement to be 730 feet above the level of the sea. It +was called Helen Island, whilst the group to which it belonged was named +after Benjamin Harrison, Esq. one of the Directors of the Hudson's Bay +Company. The Esquimaux pointed out the direction in which two rivers +near the head of the bay lay. These rivers, of which I took the bearings +by compass, were said to be of no great size, and frozen to the bottom +in winter. The bay was honoured with the name of Sir John H. Pelly, +Bart., Governor of the Company. + +The morning of the 24th was as beautiful as could be desired, with the +thermometer at -15 deg. There was a gentle air from the east, and the +horizon being very clear, I again obtained a fine view of the bay. + +Having abundance of blubber for dogs' meat and fuel, and as much seals' +flesh and blood for ourselves as at half allowance would serve us for +six or seven days, I determined to trace the shores of the land across +which we had travelled on our outward journey. + +For this purpose, both men and dogs being now much recruited, we started +at 8h. 30m. A.M. and took a N.E. by E. course towards the eastern shore +of the bay, which, having a western exposure, was much encumbered with +rough ice. We had some trouble in getting over this, but found it more +smooth along the shore, which trended due north. Finding that our +sledges were too heavily laden, we left on the ice a quantity of our oil +and blubber. Here we made a mistake in retaining the fresh fat of the +seal, instead of that which had become somewhat rancid, as we found +that, although the dogs ate the latter with avidity, they would scarcely +taste the former. This Ivitchuk well knew, but he was too stupid to tell +me of it at the time. One of our dogs that had done his work well since +leaving Repulse Bay, had become so weak that he could scarcely walk. We +endeavoured to coax him on, but unsuccessfully; it was therefore thought +advisable to leave him where we had lightened our load, as he would have +provisions for at least a fortnight, if not assisted by other animals, +and before that time he would very likely be found by the Esquimaux. A +meridian observation gave latitude 68 deg. 50' 46" N., variation 78 deg. +56' W. + +As the sun had acquired too much power for travelling comfortably during +the day-time, I stopped early so as to be able to continue our journey +about midnight. Our snow hut was built near a small creek, in latitude +68 deg. 58' N., longitude 89 deg. 42' W. The coast had become low and +flat, with a few fragments of limestone and granite boulders showing +themselves occasionally above the snow. The thermometer exposed to the +sun's rays rose to +37 deg. A little snow fell in the evening. + +On the morning of the 25th there was some more snow with a temperature +of -7 deg. We did not commence our march until some hours later than I +had expected. The direction of the land continued nearly north for eight +miles; it then turned off to the north-east, and continued so until we +stopped at noon, in latitude by observation 69 deg. 14' 37" N., +longitude by account 89 deg. 18' 18" W. The tracks of a large Polar bear +and of some lemmings were noticed this day. + +26th.--The morning was dark and cloudy when we started at 20 minutes +after one. When just about to set out, we were joined by the poor dog we +had left behind. He had grown into much better condition, although he +was still unable to haul. I may here add that he afterwards quite +recovered, and was the only one of our stock that I took to England with +me. + +Our course for seven miles was east, and then turned off S.E. by S. +forming a cape, which was named Chapman, after one of the Directors of +the Hudson's Bay Company. + +We continued walking on, in nearly a straight line, for 11 miles, when +our dogs became tired, and we encamped an hour before noon, in latitude +by observation 69 deg. 5' 35" N., variation 81 deg. 50' W., longitude +by account 88 deg. 43' W. At 11 P.M. we recommenced our march, the +weather being beautiful, and the temperature -8 deg. + +27th.--The coast trended in exactly the same direction as that we had +passed during the latter part of the preceding day's journey; the +walking was in general good, and our dogs were every day recovering +their strength. A single rock grouse (_tetrao rupestris_) was seen, but +so shy that we could not get a shot at it. Many traces of foxes, and the +recent foot-marks of a large white bear, were also seen. We kept a sharp +out-look for the latter, with the hopes of getting a few steaks out of +him, but he did not show himself. There was a high wall of broken ice +all along the shore here, which may be readily accounted for by the +direction of the coast, which, by contracting the bay, is exposed to the +pressure of the ice coming from the northward. Fortunate it was for us +that we had got some oil and seals' blubber, for there was not a bit of +anything in the shape of fuel to be seen along this barren shore. The +weather having become too warm, about 11 A.M., we stopped in latitude, +by observation, 68 deg. 51' N., longitude by account 88 deg. 6' W. + +The morning of the 28th was particularly fine, with a temperature of 15 +deg. below zero. For eight miles our course was the same as that of the +day before, but the land now turned gradually to the southward, and +finally to about a south-by-west direction. At noon the sun had become +so warm, that we were compelled to encamp for the day. At three miles +from where we had stopped, we passed a small bay, about 1-1/2 mile wide, +the only indentation of the coast we had seen since leaving Pelly Bay. +Our latitude by meridian observation was 68 deg. 32' 40" N., variation +of the compass 70 deg. 55' W., and our longitude by account 88 deg. 2' +W. + +29th.--We resumed our march at a little after 11 P.M. on the 28th. The +weather was calm, but cloudy, with the temperature -3 deg. The line of +coast now ran nearly south, and after a walk of five miles we came to a +narrow point, extending two miles to the eastward. We then crossed a bay +about 1-1/2 mile wide, and arrived at another point of nearly the same +dimensions, both formed of mud and shingle. These I named respectively +after James and Robert Clouston, two intimate friends. + +Four miles further brought us opposite to a small low island, half a +mile from the shore, and at a short distance beyond this we came to a +small bay upwards of a mile wide. A little before noon we stopped to +build our snow hut. The day was now warm, the thermometer having risen +as high as +55 deg. in the sun, and +18 deg. in the shade. One of our +best dogs got lamed by putting his foot into a crack in the ice. We saw +the smoke of open water at no great distance, and heard the ice making +a loud noise as it was driven along with the tide. There were numerous +traces of foxes, and the tracks of a band of deer, with a wolverine in +pursuit, were noticed. The latitude of our position was 68 deg. 15' N., +variation 75 deg. 52' W., and longitude by account 88 deg. 5' 36" W. + +30th.--We started at half-past nine the previous night, with clear +weather and a fresh breeze from west, which, with a temperature of -8 +deg., made our already frost-bitten faces smart severely. After a few +miles' walk, we rounded a low spit of land, which had been hid from our +view by the rough ice on our outward journey, and which I now named +Point Anderson. Between this point and Cape Barclay, of which we now got +sight, there is a narrow bay running up to the northward two or three +miles. + +We had a great quantity of rough ice to scramble over, which, however +fatiguing, afforded some amusement, as the ridiculous positions in which +we were sometimes placed gave abundant food for mirth to those who were +disposed to look at every thing in the most favourable light. + +About midnight the weather became very stormy, so much so indeed that we +had great difficulty in keeping the proper course, which was now to the +north west, for the purpose of picking up the pemmican, &c. which we had +deposited on the shore of Keith Bay on the 12th. On reaching the west +side of the bay at 3 A.M. I found that we were not more than a hundred +yards from where our "cache" was placed, which we found quite safe. +Ivitchuk and the boy having lagged behind, we removed a quantity of +snow, and took possession of our old snow hut to wait for them. After +staying for an hour we resumed our journey, thinking that our companions +might have taken a shorter route across the bay; and this we found to be +the case. It had been cold and stormy during the greater part of the +night; but at 8 h. 30 m. A.M., when we encamped opposite Cape Beaufort, +the weather had become beautiful. + +The whole of the coast which we had traced during the last seven days, +as far as Cape Barclay, was low and flat, with neither rock nor hill to +interrupt the sameness of the landscape. It was named Simpson's +Peninsula after Sir George Simpson, the able and enterprising Governor +of the Hudson's Bay Company's territories, who projected and planned the +expedition, and to whose zeal in the cause of discovery Arctic +travellers have been so often and so much indebted. + +During the remainder of our journey homewards, having followed as nearly +as possible our outward route, we met with little of any interest. We +reached our encampment of the 9th of April on the 1st of May, and found +our "cache" of provisions quite safe. We had now an abundant stock of +food, nor were we sorry to exchange the seals' flesh and blood, on which +we had been subsisting for eight days past, for pemmican and flour. It +is true that during that time we had supped on a few dried salmon, which +were so old and mouldy that the water in which they were boiled became +quite green. Such, however, is the advantage of hard work and short +commons, that we enjoyed that change of food as much as if it had been +one of the greatest delicacies. Both the salmon, and the water in which +they were cooked, were used to the last morsel and drop, although I +firmly believe that a moderately well fed dog would not have tasted +either. + +We now saw numerous tracks of rein-deer, all proceeding in a N.E. +direction towards Melville Peninsula. Early on the morning of the 3rd of +May we arrived at the small lake near Point Hargrave, on which we had +encamped on the 7th of April; much of the snow had disappeared from the +ground in the neighbourhood, and the marmots had already cleared out the +entrances to their burrows, and recommenced their life of activity for +the summer season. Not an hour now passed without our seeing deer; but +they were extremely shy, and the only benefit we received from them was +the life and spirit their presence infused into our dogs. + +The night of the 4th was very unpleasant, there being much snow and +drift, which prevented us from seeing the ridges of snow which occurred +frequently on our path, and which being very hard and slippery, caused +us many falls. At half-past 1 on the morning of the 5th we reached some +old Esquimaux dwellings on the border of Christie Lake, about fifteen +miles from Fort Hope, in one of which we took up our temporary abode. At +2 P.M. on the same day we were again on the march, and arrived at our +home at 8 h. 30 m. P.M. all well, but so black and scarred on the face +from the combined effects of oil, smoke, and frost bites, that our +friends would not believe but that some serious accident from the +explosion of gunpowder had happened to us. Thus successfully terminated +a journey little short of 600 English miles, the longest, I believe, +ever made on foot along the Arctic coast. + +During our absence every thing, had gone on prosperously at winter +quarters. The people had been all in good health, and the wound in +Ouligbuck's arm had healed up, but the limb had not yet acquired much +strength. When I set out on the 5th of April there was but a very small +quantity of venison in store, so that I was afraid that Folster (the man +left in charge) would be forced to use pemmican, which substantial +article I wished to save as much as possible for future contingencies. +Fortunately the Esquimaux brought a little venison to barter, which, +with an occasional deer killed by the hunters, kept the party in food; +although the store at one time was so empty, that they were compelled to +have a dinner of tongues, which (except in case of necessity) were to be +kept for journeys. As the weather in the latter part of April became +stormy, and the deer numerous, the hunters were more successful, and +there was no further scarcity. Ouligbuck had, notwithstanding the wound +in his arm, killed four deer, and sixteen more had been shot by Nibitabo +and some others of the party; so that the meat store was well stocked +when I arrived; and well that it was so, for we were as ravenous as +wolves, and I believe ate more than would have been good for us had our +food been anything but venison, which is so digestible that a person may +eat almost any quantity without feeling any bad effects from it. + +May commenced with a beautiful day, the thermometer being above zero, +and continuing so throughout. This was the only day for many months past +that the negative scale of the thermometer had not been registered. On +the 3rd snowbirds were seen, and marmots had some time before emerged +from their winter quarters. + +The Esquimaux, with the exception of one or two families, had built +their snow huts within a quarter of a mile of our house, where they had +been living for more than a week. They had almost all behaved well, and +were commended accordingly. They had not yet commenced seal hunting, +but were to do so as soon as the seals came up on the ice; in the +meantime they were catching deer in snow traps made by digging holes in +the snow, and covering them with thin slabs of the same material. Wolves +are often taken in a similar manner; but for them the hole requires to +be not less than eight or nine feet deep, and after it is covered with a +thin plate of hard snow (on the centre of which a bait is laid), a wall +is built round it, over which it is necessary for the wolf to leap, +before he can reach the bait. He does so, and falls to the bottom of the +pit, which is too narrow to give him room to make a spring to the top. + +I may now say a few words about our travelling companion Ivitchuk, who +had behaved well throughout the journey. We found him always willing and +obedient, and generally lively and cheerful except when very tired, +which was frequently the case, as he had not been accustomed to travel +so many days consecutively. He accommodated himself easily to our +manners and customs in every respect, living as we did, though he would +swallow a piece of seal's blubber now and then as a delicacy. What +surprised me most was, that he was by no means a very great eater, being +often satisfied with as little as any of the party. Tea and chocolate +were favorite beverages with him, and he had learned to smoke his pipe +as regularly as if he had been accustomed to it all his life. He picked +up a few words of English, which he made use of whenever he thought +they were applicable, and was very anxious to be taught to read and +write. As he, like the rest of the party, was much thinner than when he +commenced the journey, he had made up his mind to do nothing during the +remainder of the spring but eat, drink, and sleep, a determination to +which I believe he most strictly adhered. It was with no small pride +that he received a gun and some ammunition, as a reward for his +services; and a few presents to his wife, one of the best looking of the +fair sex of Repulse Bay, made the pair quite happy, although it was said +that the lady had not behaved very well to her liege lord during his +absence, having taken unto herself another husband named Ou-plik; but +probably the good man knew nothing, or cared little, about it. + +Part of the men were now every day occupied in scraping among the snow +for moss and heather, of which a sufficient quantity was procured to +keep the kettle boiling. + +On Sunday the 9th divine service was read, and thanks offered to the +Almighty for having guided us in safety through the late journey. Many +Esquimaux were present, who conducted themselves with propriety. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + Preparations for exploring the coast of Melville + Peninsula--Outfit--Leave Fort Hope--Pass over numerous + lakes--Guide at fault--Dease Peninsula--Arrive at the + sea--Fatigue party sent back to Fort Hope--Barrier of + ice--Lefroy Bay--Large island named after the Prince of + Wales--Detained by stormy weather--Short allowance--Cape Lady + Simpson--Selkirk Bay--Snow knee-deep--Capes Finlayson and + Sibbald--Deer shot--A cooking scene--Favourite native + relish--Again stopped by stormy weather--Cape M'Loughlin--Two + men left to hunt and fish--Cape Richardson--Chain of + islands--Garry Bay--Prince Albert range of hills--Cape + Arrowsmith--Coast much indented--Baker Bay--Provisions + fail--Proceed with one man--Cape Crozier--Parry Bay--Cape + Ellice, the farthest point seen--Take possession--Commence our + return--No provisions procured by the men left behind--Short + commons--Flock of cranes--Snow-blindness--Arrive at Repulse Bay. + +On the 12th of May preparations were commenced for a journey along the +west side of Melville Peninsula. In expectation of falling in with much +rough ice, I determined on taking dogs only for the first three days of +the journey. The party was to consist of Corrigal (our snow-house +builder), Folster, Matheson, and Mineau, with Ouligbuck as deer-hunter +and interpreter. A fatigue party of two men, and an Esquimaux with a +sledge and good team of dogs, were to accompany us for three days, which +I supposed would be the time required to reach the coast. + +Our provisions for the journey were two bags of pemmican, each 90 lbs., +70 reindeer tongues weighing nearly 30 lbs., 36 lbs. flour, and a little +tea, chocolate, and sugar. We took also a gallon and a half of alcohol +and a small quantity of oil. + +Leaving George Flett in charge at Fort Hope, we started at 10 P.M. on +the 13th of May, and directed our course towards a chain of lakes in +nearly a due north direction. Although the snow was soft, and we had +some rather steep rising grounds to pass over, we made good progress, +and after crossing six small lakes we came to some high table-land, on +which the snow was very deep, and in which the sledge sank very much. A +walk of four miles brought us to another lake of considerable size. A +little after 6 A.M. on the 14th, we found some snow huts that had been +inhabited during part of the winter by the Esquimaux Ecouchi, and soon +had one of them cleared out for the accommodation of the party. + +Although we had not travelled much more than twenty miles, Ouligbuck was +so fatigued that I determined to send him back with those who were to +return to Repulse Bay. We saw no game and only very few tracks of deer. +The weather was so cloudy that no meridian observation of the sun could +be obtained. Our latitude was 66 deg. 52' N., and longitude 86 deg. 46' +W., both by account. + +We resumed our march at 9 P.M. on the 14th, the night being calm, with a +little snow falling. A brisk walk of two miles to the N.W. brought us to +the end of the lake, when we followed the bed of a small stream to the +northward for five miles. Two narrow lakes were next traversed, when our +guide, who appeared to know little about the proper route, led us to the +N.W.; and after crossing five lakelets, and as many short portages, at +half-past 6 A.M. we came to a body of water about the size of that near +which we had encamped the day before. Here we stopped for the day. The +ice on this lake was six feet thick, and gave the men much trouble to +cut through it. There was very little fuel to be found; we were +therefore obliged to burn part of the small quantity of oil we had taken +with us. By a meridian observation our latitude was 67 deg. 5' 3" N., +variation of the compass 53 deg. 30' W., and longitude by account 87 deg. +8' 54" W. The west side of the creek, and also of the lakes which we +passed over this day, was steep and rocky, although not high; the east +sides were more sloping. + +It was near 10 o'clock at night when we commenced our journey. After an +hour's walk we came to the north end of the lake, but our young +Esquimaux never having been here before (which was rather surprising, as +his usual winter home was not more than ten miles distant), was quite +at a loss what direction to take. It would have been quite easy for me +to have made a straight course by compass, but by doing so we were very +likely to get among ground so uneven, as to be impassable to the dogs +and sledge. We now turned to the east of north, and after crossing a +number of small lakes, arrived at the sea (which here formed a deep +inlet) at a few minutes before midnight. Proceeding down the inlet, +which for a couple of leagues was not more than half a mile wide, with +steep rocky shores (in some places precipitous), we came to rough ice, +and found that there were apparently two openings leading to the +northward. I chose the one to the left, but we had not gone more than a +mile-and-a-half, when we found that we were in an arm of the inlet, and +that the land to the north of us, which I had supposed to be an island, +was joined to the mainland by an isthmus not more than 50 yards wide. +This peninsula I named after P. W. Dease, Esq., the able leader, in +conjunction with T. Simpson, of the expeditions which explored so large +a portion of the Arctic shores in 1837, 1838, and 1839. + +Retracing our steps, we now followed the opening to the right, in which +there were great quantities of rough ice, over which we advanced but +slowly. The inlet (to which I had given the name of Cameron, after a +friend), soon became broader and the ice less rough. At 7 A.M. on the +16th we arrived at the Cape, which last autumn had been named after the +late Thomas Simpson, whose agreeable duty it would have been, had he +survived, to accomplish the survey which I was now endeavouring to bring +to a successful termination. The shores here were very barren, there +being little or no vegetation to be seen, except small patches in the +crevices of the rocks. In a small lake near our encampment, from which +we obtained water, the ice was found to be five feet thick. A sufficient +quantity of fuel was gathered to boil our kettle, and two hares were +shot by Corrigal. We here made a "cache" of some pemmican, flour, &c. +for our return journey. Our snow hut was built on the south side of the +cape, under shelter of rocks, near which there were two small islands. + +The sledge was to be sent back to Repulse Bay from this place, and with +it Ouligbuck, who from his inability to walk would have been an +incumbrance to us. The weather was so cloudy that no observation could +be obtained. Our latitude by account was 67 deg. 22' (which I afterwards +found by observation to be nearly three miles too far north), longitude +87 deg. 3' W. The whole of these three days' journeys had been measured +with a well stretched line, but this we could not expect to carry on +further, as each person would have enough to do with his load. + +Bidding adieu to our companions who were to return to Fort Hope, we +commenced our journey at half-past 8 P.M., each of my men being laden +with about 70 lbs., whilst I carried my instruments, books, and some +other articles, weighing altogether 40 lbs. This was but a light burden +for me, but as I had to examine different objects on the route, and also +to lead the way, I found it quite enough. + +As soon as we had fairly rounded Cape T. Simpson, the coast turned to +the eastward, and became indented with narrow but deep inlets, all of +which were packed full of rough ice. Walking became most difficult. At +one moment we sank nearly waist-deep in snow, at another we were up to +our knees in salt water, and then again on a piece of ice so slippery +that, with our wet and frozen shoes, it was impossible to keep from +falling. Sometimes we had to crawl out of a hole on all fours like some +strange-looking quadrupeds; at other times falling backwards we were so +hampered by the weight of our loads, that it was impossible to rise +without throwing them off, or being assisted by one of our companions. +We therefore found it better to follow the shores of the inlets than to +cross them, although by doing so we had double the distance to go over. +Numerous traces of hares were seen, but we could not afford to lose time +in following them. + +After passing four inlets having some small islands lying outside of +them, we came to a rocky point rather higher than any we had yet met +with on this side of the bay. The coast to the eastward of Point Cowie +(so named after an old friend) became more level, and instead of +granite, was covered with mud, shingle, and fragments of limestone. At +half-past 3 A.M., all of us being sufficiently tired with our night's +work, we built our snow hut and a small kitchen for cooking. This was +our usual practice when we had found, or were likely to find, fuel. In +the present instance, we had the good fortune to collect enough to boil +a kettle of chocolate, and we consequently enjoyed an excellent supper, +if I may so term a meal taken about six in the morning. + +The weather had been fine until midnight, when it began to snow and +drift, with a strong breeze from the north. Thermometer +13 deg. At noon +the sky was too much overcast to obtain an observation. Our latitude was +67 deg. 24' 20" N., longitude 86 deg. 37' W. both by account. + +When we resumed our journey, at 7 o'clock in the evening of the 17th, +there was still a strong breeze from N.N.W. with snow drift, the +temperature being +18 deg. Our snow hut of the previous day we now found +to be on the shore of a large bay, the most distant point of which bore +nearly due north. To follow the coast would have cost us a great deal of +additional walking; I therefore determined to attempt the traverse of +the bay towards the point above referred to. All along the coast there +was a belt of rough ice about two miles broad, over which we were forced +to pass before reaching some that appeared smoother outside. To cross +this barrier occupied us more than two hours, and gave us more violent +exercise than all the remainder of the day's journey. It was half-past 3 +A.M. when we arrived at the north point of the bay, which was low and +level, with some hills a few hundred feet high, three or four miles +inland. We had passed two small rocky islands to seaward in the first +part of the night, and there was another close to a bluff point on the +south side of the bay. To this cape I gave the name of Watt. The bay was +called after Lieut. (now Captain) Lefroy of the Royal Artillery, whose +name is well known to the scientific world, and of whose kindness in +aiding me in my astronomical studies I retain a most grateful +remembrance. + +We crossed over to Cape W. Mactavish (so named after William Mactavish, +Esquire, chief trader, an intimate friend, to whom I am much indebted +for assisting me in fitting out the expedition,) and stopped about three +miles beyond it. Here we built our snow hut, which was found by meridian +observation to be in latitude 67 deg. 42' 22" N.; the variation of the +compass 80 deg. 35' W., and the longitude by account 86 deg. 30' W. +Directly opposite our encampment, and extending for about seventeen +miles to the northward of it, there was a large island of table land, +with not a single rock _in situ_ to be seen on it. Its southern +extremity bore nearly west (true) from us, and the strait which +separated it from the mainland was not more than a mile and a half wide. +This island was honoured with the name of His Royal Highness the Prince +of Wales, and a smaller one to the south of it was named after Colonel +Sabine. + +Not a single living animal had been seen all day, but some traces of +deer proceeding northward were noticed. We were again fortunate enough +to find a little fuel. + +Our route on the following night was nearly straight in a N.N.E. +direction. The snow was very soft and deep in many places. A few hundred +yards from the beach there were steep banks covered with shingle and +small boulders of granite, where we usually found the snow less deep, +and walking consequently better. After travelling nine miles we came to +a considerable creek, about twenty yards wide, in which a deep channel +had been worn among the mud and shingle. Near it there were numerous +Esquimaux marks set up, and circular tent sites, but all of old date. We +continued our march twelve miles further, and at 8 A.M. arrived at +another creek somewhat larger than the last, and with higher banks. Here +there were also many Esquimaux marks, and I afterwards learned that some +parties had resorted hither from Repulse Bay, for the purpose of +catching salmon, trout, &c. About an hour before reaching this place we +crossed a long and curiously shaped point, which I named Point Hamilton +after a near relative. The bay formed by it was called Erlandson. + +One of the men, although an able active fellow, not being used to this +sort of exercise, was much fatigued; and as the weather looked +threatening, I ordered our snow-house to be built--the more readily as +there was fuel to be found. In little more than a hour and a half we +were comfortably housed, and not long afterwards we had taken our usual +morning meal of pemmican seasoned with a handful of flour, those +forming, when boiled together, a very nourishing and not unpalatable +dish. The temperature all night had been 22 deg. above zero, being too +warm for walking pleasantly; and the men, having had to exert themselves +much, were glad to get to rest as soon as possible, whilst I remained up +to obtain a meridian observation of the sun. This gave latitude 67 deg. +58' 49" N. Our longitude by account was 85 deg. 59' 36" W. The sun was +too much obscured by clouds to obtain the variation. We here deposited +some pemmican and a little flour for our return journey. + +When we started at 8 h. 30 m. P.M. on the 19th it blew a gale of wind +from S.S.E. with much drift and snow, the temperature being only 4 deg. +below the freezing point. Fortunately the wind was on our backs; but the +drift was so thick that we were obliged to follow every turn of the +coast, and we could not see more than twenty yards before us. When we +had travelled six miles we came to a bay a mile and a half wide, on the +north shore of which there were two strangely shaped rocks of granite, +having the appearance of an old ruin or portion of a fortress. They +were of a square form, each about twenty-five feet high and nearly as +much in extent. + +Our course now lay due north; but we had not gone more than twelve miles +altogether, when the weather became so unpleasant that we were glad to +get under shelter, and before we did so, every part of our clothes was +penetrated with snow drift. We could obtain no fuel here. + +The weather continued so stormy that we were unable to leave our +snow-hut until a quarter past 8 P.M. on the 21st. During our detention, +finding that our provisions would run short if the walking continued as +difficult as it had been, we took only one not overabundant meal during +the twenty-four hours. There was still some snow falling, so that I +could not take the proper bearings of the land along which we passed. +The land, after we had proceeded N.E. for a few miles, turned to the +southward of east, forming a bay eight miles wide, which, as it was full +of rough ice, we were under the necessity of coasting. This bay was +called after the Rt Hon. the Earl of Selkirk, and the cape forming its +western boundary was named after the amiable lady of our much respected +governor, Sir George Simpson. + +The snow was in many places so soft and deep that we sank above the knee +at every step, which made our night's march fatiguing in the extreme. On +the N.E. side of Selkirk Bay, which is steep and rocky, there was a deep +indentation or inlet, into which two small creeks emptied themselves. +The land for five miles had a N.W. trending, and again turned up to the +eastward of N., forming a high rugged headland, which was named Cape +Finlayson, after Duncan Finlayson, Esq., Chief Factor. At three miles +from Cape Finlayson we passed Point Barnston, and about four miles +beyond this we came to another rocky point, which received the name of +Cape Sibbald. The night had now become very disagreeable, with a heavy +fall of snow; we persevered notwithstanding, partly crossing and partly +coasting a bay heaped with rough ice, and encamped on what I supposed +was its northern extremity, but which afterwards turned out to be an +island, and to which I gave the name of Glen. The bay we had just passed +was called after William G. Smith, Esq., Assistant Secretary to the +Hudson's Bay Company. + +The snow not being in a good state for building, we were rather longer +than usual in getting housed. There was no fuel to be found, so we +followed our old plan, and took a kettle or two of snow to bed with us. +The temperature was very high for the season, being only 5 deg. below +the freezing point. + +When we started at a quarter-past 11 on the 22nd, the night was +beautifully clear and calm, with the thermometer at 13 deg. below zero. +After a three hours' walk we arrived at the north point of a bay, three +and a half miles wide, across which we had come. To the bay I gave the +name of Fraser, and to the point that of Corcoran, after two intimate +friends, chief traders of the Company. + +We had not advanced many miles farther, when some deer were noticed at +no great distance, feeding on the banks of a stream. Being desirous of +procuring some venison if possible, I sent Corrigal (who, with other +good qualities, was a very fair shot) after them, and he was fortunate +enough to shoot a fine buck. But the buck, though wounded, could still +run too fast to be overtaken, and the sportsman was just about to give +up the chase when I joined him, and we continued the pursuit together. +The deer, having got a considerable way in advance, had lain down, but +rose up before we could get within good shooting distance, and was +trotting off at a great pace, when, by way of giving him a parting +salute, I fired, and very luckily sent a ball through his head, which +dropped him. His horns were already about a foot long, and the venison +was in fine order for the season of the year. + +I immediately returned to the men, who had been busily employed +collecting fuel, of which great quantities grew along the borders of the +creek, and sent two of them to assist in skinning and cutting up the +deer, whilst I and the other men continued to gather heather, as we now +anticipated great doings in the kitchen. We placed the greater part of +our venison "en cache," but kept the head, blood, leg bones, &c., for +present use; and being determined to lose nothing, the stomach was +partially cleaned by rubbing it with snow, and then cut up and boiled, +which thus made a very pleasant soup, there being enough of the +vegetable contents of the paunch to give it a fine green colour, +although I must confess that, to my taste, this did not add to the +flavour. Having discussed this mess, a second kettle full was prepared, +composed of the blood, brains, and some scraps of the meat, which +completed our supper. + +It is well known that both Esquimaux and Indians are very fond of the +contents of the paunch of the rein-deer, particularly in the spring, +when the vegetable substances on which the animal feeds are said to be +sweeter tasted. I have often seen our hunter, Nibitabo, when he had shot +a deer, cut open the stomach, and sup the contents with as much relish +as a London alderman would a plate of turtle soup. + +The position of our snow-house was in latitude 68 deg. 33' 26" N., +longitude 85 deg. 20' 30" W., both by account. + +The weather was so stormy during the 23rd that we could not continue our +journey. The thermometer rose as high as +39 deg. in the shade, and the +melting of the snow having wet the heather, we were obliged to have +recourse to alcohol. Three or four snow buntings and traces of +partridges (_tetrao rupestris_) were seen. + +On the 24th it still blew a gale of wind from the east, but there being +a partial thaw by the high temperature, there was no drift, and much of +the ground was entirely cleared of snow. + +In the evening the weather became more moderate, and the thermometer +fell to 5 deg. below the freezing point. We started at a few minutes +after 10 o'clock, our course being slightly to the east of north. The +travelling was still very fatiguing, as we were frequently forced to +pass over the rocks, or to walk along the steep drift banks, in order to +avoid the rough ice which had been heaped up against the shore. We +passed a number of small bays and points, and when we had advanced +fifteen miles, came to a high cape, which forms the N.W. promontory of a +bay five miles in extent. To the cape I gave the name of M'Loughlin, +after the gentleman who has been for many years in charge of the +Columbia department, and the bay was called after my much valued friend +Nicol Finlayson, Esq., Chief Factor. After passing Cape M'Loughlin we +turned to the eastward, toward the head of the bay, and stopped at 7 +A.M. near the mouth of a creek, where we took up our quarters for the +day. + +There was not so much fuel to be found as at our last encampment, but we +gathered enough to boil our kettle. Some bands of deer and a few +partridges were observed, but we did not waste time in endeavouring to +get a shot at them. Since leaving Fort Hope not a day had passed without +more or less snow falling, which made the travelling much more +difficult than I expected, and our progress consequently so much slower, +that, notwithstanding the addition I had made to our stock of +provisions, there was some danger of our still running short. I +therefore decided on leaving two of the men here to fish and shoot, +whilst I went forward with the others. + +There was a little snow falling when, along with Corrigal and Matheson, +I set out at 10 P.M. on the 25th. The night was mild (6 deg. below +freezing) with a light wind from the east. A walk of two miles brought us +to a head land, which formed the north side of Finlayson Bay, and which +extended seven miles in a W.N.W. direction. To this cape the name of +Richardson was given, after the distinguished naturalist, who, having +already exposed himself to many dangers and privations in the cause of +science, is now about to incur similar hardships in the cause of +humanity and friendship, by searching for Sir John Franklin and his +gallant party, whose situation, it is too much to be feared, is a +critical one. + +At the place where we crossed Cape Richardson it was not more than a +mile wide, and we found ourselves in a large bay, thickly studded with +high and rugged islands. A chain of these islands, which lay outside of +us, and to which I gave the name of Pomona, (after the largest island of +the Orcadian group,) had effectually served as a barrier to the ice from +seaward, and had thus made the walking much smoother than we had hoped +to find it. As we advanced there were many tracks of polar bears, and +also those of a wolverine, that appeared to follow them very closely, +expecting no doubt to appropriate some portion of whatever prey they +might catch. A flock of long-tailed ducks passed us, flying to the +westward, towards some open water, the vapour exhaled from which +appeared in that direction. + +As we approached the north side of the bay, which was named after +Nicholas Garry, Esq., of the Hudson's Bay Company, there were so many +islands that I was much at a loss what direction to take. Under these +circumstances we encamped at 6 A.M. on a high island, about two miles in +diameter, from which a good view could be obtained. Garry Bay is the +most strangely shaped, and the most irregular in its outline, of any we +had yet seen. It presented three long, narrow, and high points of land, +and had four inlets. The largest and most southerly of these points was +called after Lieut. Halkett, R.N., and the most northerly of the inlets +received the name of Black Inlet. As no fuel could be obtained here, we +were reduced to the necessity of using some more of our alcohol, of +which but a small quantity now remained. The men were soon asleep under +our single blanket, (for this was all the covering we had for the +party,) whilst I remained awake for the purpose of obtaining an +observation of the sun at noon. This gave latitude 68 deg. 59' 15" N., +variation of the compass 88 deg. 26' W., our longitude by account being +84 deg. 48' W. + +All the way between Lefroy and Garry Bays there is a range of hills, +from 500 to 800 feet high, about five miles from the coast, which was +distinguished by the name of His Royal Highness Prince Albert, consort +of our beloved Sovereign. + +The weather was beautiful all day, and was equally fine when we +commenced our march at half-past nine at night. Our route lay somewhat +to the west of north, between two lofty islands, the smaller of which +received the name of Gladman, and the larger and most northerly I +designated Honeyman, after a brother. Seven miles from our encampment we +passed a bluff and precipitous point, the northern extremity of Garry +Bay, to which the name of Cape Arrowsmith was given, in honour of John +Arrowsmith, Esq., the talented hydrographer to Her Majesty. + +The land was now completely serrated with narrow points and inlets, +along which we were able to make nearly a straight course, as the force +of the ice from the westward had been much broken by ridges of rocks +that lay outside of us. To four of these inlets I gave the names of +M'Kenzie, Whiffen, Bunn, and Hopkins, after much esteemed friends. + +Towards the end of our night's journey the coast turned nearly due +north, and when we had advanced seven leagues we encamped on Cape +Miles,--so named after Robert Miles, Esq., Chief Factor,--at 7 A.M. +on the 27th. As the morning was exceedingly fine, we thought there was +no necessity for building a snow-house, an omission which we regretted +in the afternoon, when a heavy fall of snow took place. + +By a good meridian observation of the sun, the latitude 69 deg. 19' 39" +N., and the variation of the compass 92 deg. 20' west, were obtained, +the longitude by account being 85 deg. 4' W. The latter is evidently +erroneous, as I had neither chronometer nor watch that I could place +dependence upon, and the compasses were much affected by local +attraction. + +Our provisions being now nearly all used, I could advance only half a +night's journey further to the northward, and return the following +morning to our present quarters. Leaving one of the men, I set out with +the other at half-past 9 P.M., the snow falling fast; and although we +had little or nothing to carry, the travelling was very fatiguing as we +crossed Baker Bay--so named in memory of a much valued friend--at the +north side of which we arrived after a walk of four miles. It now snowed +so thick that we could not see farther than fifty yards round us, and we +were consequently obliged to follow the windings of the shore, which, +when we had traced it six miles beyond Baker Bay, turned sharp to the +eastward; but the weather continuing thick, I could not see how far it +preserved this trending. After waiting here nearly an hour, the sky +cleared up for a few minutes at 4 A.M., which enabled me to discover +that we were on the south shore of a considerable bay, and I could also +obtain a distinct view of the coast line for nearly twelve miles beyond +it. + +To the most distant visible point (latitude 69 deg. 42' N., longitude 85 +deg. 8' W.,) I gave the name of Cape Ellice, after Edward Ellice, Esq. +M.P., one of the Directors of the Company; the bay to the northward, and +the headland on which we stood, were respectively named after the +distinguished navigators Sir Edward Parry and Captain Crozier. + +Finding it hopeless to attempt reaching the strait of the Fury and +Hecla, from which Cape Ellice could not be more than ten miles distant, +we took possession of our discoveries with the usual formalities, and +retraced our steps, arriving at our encampment of the previous day at +half-past 8 A.M. Here we found that Matheson, the man left behind, had +built a snow-house after a fashion of his own, the walls being like +those of a stone building, and the roof covered in the same way with +slabs of snow placed on the opposite walls in a slanting position, so as +to rest on one another in the centre. Seven hours had been spent in +building this edifice, which was not a very handsome one; but being +sufficiently wide, and, when our legs were doubled up a little, long +enough for us all when lying down, we found it pretty comfortable. + +During the remaining four hours of our absence, he had been engaged in +an attempt to coax a little wet moss into a sufficient blaze to boil +some chocolate; but, notwithstanding his most persevering exertions, by +the time his fuel was expended, the chocolate was little more than +lukewarm, although our cook _pro tempore_, who was of a sanguine +temperament, firmly believed that it was just about to reach the boiling +point. We finished the process with a little of our remaining stock of +alcohol, and enjoyed an excellent though rather scanty supper. + +Matheson was one of the best men I ever had under my command. Always +ready, willing, and obedient, he did his duty in every respect; and +whilst he possessed spirit enough for anything, he had a stock of good +humour which never failed him in any situation, however difficult and +trying. Were the walking difficult or easy, the loads heavy or light, +provisions abundant or reduced to less than half allowance, it was all +one to Peter Matheson; he had a joke ready for every occasion. + +A few minutes after 10 P.M. on the 28th, we were on the march homeward. +The night was very disagreeable, there being a strong breeze of head +wind with heavy snow, and a temperature much too mild (only 8 deg. below +the freezing point) for walking comfortably. The snow also was very soft, +so that, had it not been for the bad state of our victualling department, +we would have remained snug in our quarters. But needs must when hunger +drives, so we trudged on stoutly, crossing over the land for the purpose +of shortening our distance. After a tough walk, during which we met +with some tracks of bears that had passed only about an hour before, we +encamped on a small island close to Cape Arrowsmith, and nearly three +miles to the northward of our snow hut of the 26th. The weather during +the day became fine, so fine indeed that our house, not being built of +good material, tumbled down about our ears just before we were leaving +it. + +29th.--When we started at half-past 9 P.M., the night was fine, but in +half an hour it began to snow so thick that we could not keep our course +in crossing Garry Bay, where the walking was much worse than when we +formerly passed. In three hours the weather again cleared up, and I +found that we had not deviated much from the right road. + +At 7 A.M. we joined Folster and Mineau, whom we found quite well, but +like ourselves very thin. The only animals they had killed were two +marmots, and no fish had been caught. If we had been twelve hours longer +absent, they intended to have boiled a piece of parchment skin for +supper, and to have kept the small remaining piece of pemmican for +travelling provisions. + +I have had considerable practice in walking, and have often accomplished +between forty and fifty, and, on one occasion, sixty-five miles in a day +on snow shoes, with a day's provisions, blanket, axe, &c. on my back; +but our journey hitherto had been the most fatiguing I had ever +experienced. The severe exercise, with a limited allowance of food, had +much reduced the whole party, yet we were all in excellent health; and +although we lost flesh, we kept up our spirits, and marched merrily on, +tightening our belts--mine came in six inches--and feasting our +imaginations on full allowance when we arrived at Fort Hope. + +On the 30th we continued our course homewards, crossing over the several +points that we had formerly coasted. It snowed heavily all night, and +the temperature was only two degrees below the freezing point. Eight +cranes "winged their circling flight" northward, and half a dozen +sandpipers were seen. It was near 4 A.M. on the 31st when we arrived at +our snow house of the 23rd, which we found quite as good as when we left +it and our cache of venison all safe. Three partridges were shot, which +somewhat aided our short commons. + +On the following night, after an ineffectual attempt to get to seaward +of the rough ice, in which we lost a considerable portion of the skin +off our shins, we travelled on the land, making short cuts whenever +practicable. + +On arriving opposite to Glen Island, we found that it was divided from +the shore by a channel not much more than a quarter of a mile wide. +There was an inlet a few miles in length to the eastward of it, which +was named after the Rev. Mr. Mackar of Kingston, Canada West. This night +was the finest we had experienced throughout the journey. + +A specimen of trap rock was obtained from some rising grounds a mile +and a half distant from the north shore of Smith's Bay, near the head of +which we now for the first time observed a lake of a couple miles in +extent. When half a league from Cape Sibbald, we encamped under shelter +of some precipitous trap cliffs nearly a hundred feet high. Some more +cranes were seen, and numerous traces of deer and partridges. We here +procured some fuel, there being patches of ground bare of snow. Our +latitude by observation was 68 deg. 19' 50" N. Variation of the compass +80 deg. 55' W. Two of the men were affected with snow blindness--one of +them severely. + +1st June.--It blew a gale of wind from S.E., with thick snow-drift at +8h. 30m. P.M. when we resumed our journey. At half-past 10 we crossed +the largest stream that we had yet met with on Melville Peninsula. It +was already partially open, owing to numerous springs, which had formed +many small mounds of ice from ten to twelve feet high. After taking a +copious draught from the limpid stream, we continued our journey across +Point Barnston and Cape Finlayson, until we arrived at Selkirk Bay, +when, the weather having become much worse, we stopped at 1h. 30m. A.M. +to build our snow hut at a place where there was such an abundant supply +of heather, that we had enough to cover our snow-bed with. Two deer were +seen, and Corrigal made an ineffectual attempt to get a shot at them. I +shot five ptarmigan, and four sandpipers were observed. + +During the next night's journey the weather was very snowy, but the wind +being more moderate we got on faster. After coasting Selkirk Bay, we cut +across Cape Lady Simpson, and at half-past 6 A.M. on the 3rd of June, we +reached our encampment of the 19th ultimo in Erlandson Bay, where we +found our small "cache" of provisions quite safe. Five more partridges +were shot, and some deer seen. The snow being very soft, we remained +here all day, and at noon obtained the latitude 67 deg. 59' N., and +variation 75 deg. 9' W. The thermometer in the shade rose as high as +54 +deg., and our old snow-house tumbled down about our ears in the evening, +just as we were going to take our supper,--perhaps breakfast would be the +more appropriate term, as we had turned day into night. + +We started at 8h. 30m. P.M., and notwithstanding the great power of the +sun, so much snow had fallen lately that it lay far deeper on the ground +than when we had previously passed this way. The walking also was so +much more fatiguing, that we were not able to reach our snow-house of +the 18th of May, and were in consequence under the necessity of building +new lodgings. The night was mild and nearly calm. Two phalaropes (_P. +fulicarius_) were seen, and a couple of ptarmigan shot. There was no +fuel to be found here, but having picked up a little as we came along, +we did not feel the want of it much. + +The 4th was a fine night with the thermometer at +23 deg., when, at 7h. +40m., we resumed our march. Whilst rounding Cape Mactavish we fell in +with nine partridges, seven of which were shot, and I endeavoured to get +within range of a couple of swans--the first we had seen--but they were +too shy. We now crossed Lefroy Bay, the snow on which was very soft, and +built our snow-house on the ice at 7h. A.M. about four miles from its +south shore. The work during this journey had been so much more severe +than was expected, and the men had in consequence used so much more +tobacco than they had anticipated, that their stock was now quite +exhausted, and they appeared to feel the want as much as if they had +been deprived of half their allowance of food,--perhaps more. It was +really amusing to see how very particular they were in dividing the +small remaining bits which they rummaged from the dust and rubbish in +their pockets, and which at any other time they would have thrown away. +I happened to have a little snuff with me, a pinch of which, in their +necessity, they relished much. + +We were on foot again at 20 minutes after 8 on the 5th. The weather had +been stormy all day, but became fine an hour after we started. We kept +well out from land, expecting to find the ice smoother; and this was the +case as far as Point Cowie; but beyond that the rough ice extended quite +across the bay; we therefore struck in for the shore, which after two +hours' scrambling we reached, and directed our course over the +rocks,--from which the snow had now, in many places, entirely +disappeared,--towards Cape T. Simpson, where we arrived at 5h. A.M. on +the 6th, and found our "cache" of provisions, &c., as we had left it. No +time was lost in getting the stones cleared away from it, not so much +for the purpose of having something to eat, as to find some tobacco that +had been left here among other things. A fine hare had been shot, and as +soon as three of the party, who had stopped behind to gather fuel, came +up, we had a much more abundant and palatable meal than we had enjoyed +for many days before. To the large bay, the survey of which we had now +completed, the name of Committee Bay was given, in honor of the +Committee of the Hudson's Bay Company. This was the finest day we had +experienced during this journey, the power of the sun being so great as +to raise the thermometer to +82 deg. + +By an excellent meridian observation in quicksilver, our latitude was +67 deg. 19' 14" N., variation of compass, 64 deg. 27' W. Wishing to take +a straighter, and consequently shorter, route to Repulse Bay than that by +which we had gone, we started at 9 P.M. on the 6th, and after a walk of +three hours came to the head of a narrow inlet, with high rocky shores, +and about seven miles long, to which I gave the name of Munro. Our +course overland was nearly due south, and we passed over a number of +small lakes, from which the snow had been partially removed by the +joint action of the sun's rays and the wind. + +On the following night our course continued the same with a slight +inclination to the westward. We had a strong gale of fair wind, which +helped us along amazingly; but as we could easily reach Fort Hope in +another night, and as we had abundance of food, we encamped at 3h. 30m. +A.M. on the 8th, during the whole of which day, until late in the +evening, it blew hard with drifting snow, so that no observations could +be made. + +Being anxious to arrive at winter quarters early on the following day, +we were again on the march at half-past 7 P.M., and the evening having +now become fine, we kept up a smart pace for a few hours until we +arrived at Christie Lake, where, finding some very fine heather quite +dry and free from snow, it was impossible to resist the temptation of +having something to eat and drink. Having taken up our quarters in an +old snow-hut, the chocolate and pemmican kettles were soon on the fire, +and we heartily enjoyed our rather unusual meal. Following the lake and +North Pole River, we came to Fort Hope at 8h. 20m. A.M. on the 9th, all +in good health and spirits, but very much reduced in flesh, although not +quite so black as when we returned from the previous journey. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + Occurrences at Fort Hope during the absence of the exploring + party--Remove from winter quarters to tents--Sun seen at + midnight--Build an oven and bake bread--Esquimaux method of + catching seals--A concert--Lateness of the summer--A native + salmon-wear--Salmon spear--Boulders on the surface of the + ice--Visited by a native from the Ooglit Islands--His report of + occurrences at Igloolik--Indolence of the natives--Ice breaking + up--Halkett's air-boat--A storm--The ice dispersed--Prepare for + sea. + +During my absence from Fort Hope little beyond the usual occurrences of +the winter had taken place. The latter part of May was remarkable for +the great quantity of snow that fell, with gales of wind and drift, +which kept the men almost continually clearing away snow from the roofs +of our houses. They were obliged even to go to work during the night, +and notwithstanding all the care that was taken, two of the boats' yards +were broken, and the masts very nearly shared a like fate, as the post +placed under them gave way. For so great a quantity of snow lodging on +our roof, the man left in charge was to blame, as shortly after my +departure he had the snow thrown up in heaps, which, when the stormy +weather and snow-drift came on, caused drift-banks to be raised to an +equal height (about 4-1/2 feet) on the tops of our dwellings. + +During all this time the thermometer never fell lower than +9 deg., which +was on the 16th of May, and rose as high as +45 deg., at mid-day on the +29th. The last day of May was very stormy; but on the 1st of June the +weather changed for the better, although the thermometer was as low as ++12 deg. On this day the first geese (laughing geese) and some sandpipers +were seen, and one of each was shot. As the partridges were migrating +northward about thirty had been killed, and there was a good stock of +venison in store, the hunters having shot twenty deer. The does were now +very large with young, and had become very poor; the bucks were, +however, improving in condition. + +The Esquimaux had brought in little for trade, a few pairs of boots, +which were soon bought up by the men, and a little oil from Akkeeoulik +being the principal articles. Some of them were getting short of +provisions, not having been able to find a "cache" which they went for. +They had all behaved well, not having committed any thefts that could be +discovered. We had, however, one most incorrigible thief among our +party, Ouligbuck's son, who, during the few days of his fathers absence, +was twice caught with the old man's bale open, eating sugar; some +tobacco was also taken, and the trousers of most of the men were +completely cleared of buttons by the same hands. On my return only one +family of Esquimaux (Shimakuk's) remained near us. Shimakuk had been +waiting for his dogs, which were with the party who had gone in search +of meat. + +On the 13th divine service was read, and thanks returned to the Almighty +for His protection throughout the winter and during the late journey. + +There was a strong breeze of N. wind, with frequent showers of snow. +House very damp; the clay falling from the inside of the walls. + +14th.--The weather was fine and permitted us to get our flour, pemmican, +&c., removed from the meat store (which was now dropping much from the +roof) to the rocks, where it was well covered up with oilcloths. + +The 20th was a most stormy day with occasional showers--wind N.W. There +was a considerable stream of water running on the ice of North Pole +River, forming large pools on the sea-ice, through which it did not yet +find a free exit. + +21st.--There was a change in the weather for the better, although it +still blew a gale; however, as the day advanced the wind became more +moderate, and about noon shifted round to the south. + +The water was rising fast in all the creeks, showing that the process of +destruction was fast going on among the snow and ice. The latter was +still nearly four feet thick on the lakes, but very porous. + +The great rise of water in the creeks and small streams rendered it +very unpleasant and even dangerous to cross them. In attempting to get +near some geese this day I sunk to the waist amidst snow and water, and +not being able to get any firm footing, I found much difficulty in +scrambling out without wetting my gun. + +23rd.--This being a fine day, all the men were employed dismantling the +house and carrying down the provisions, clothes, &c. to the summer +tents, which had been pitched about 300 yards nearer the shore. Two +leather tents were put up for cooking in. We saw the sun at midnight, +his lower limb touching the high grounds to the northward. + +We made some bread in an oven which we had built of stones cemented with +clay of an excellent quality. The upper part of our first batch was well +baked, but the floor of the oven was not sufficiently warm to bake the +lower part. It however rose well, and we afterwards succeeded in making +excellent bread, though the oven was heated with heather.[4] + +15th July.--Weather still stormy and cold to the feelings, the +thermometer being +35 deg. The water of North Pole Lake had broken +through its barrier of snow and ice, and was rushing down the river with +great force, carrying with it large masses of ice. + +All the men except Flett, who remained at the tents, and Germain, who +had charge of the nets, went to North Pole Lake on the 19th to bring +down the boat. The river being one continued rapid throughout its whole +length, with not an eddy to stop in, they came down at rather a quick +rate, but were compelled to stop within a few hundred yards of the salt +water, on account of the shallowness and the number of stones. +Twenty-two salmon were caught, some in good condition, others very soft +and thin. The former contained roe about the eighth of an inch in +diameter. + +A number of Esquimaux arrived for the purpose of catching salmon, having +finished their seal hunting, which had been successful, although the +number killed could not be ascertained. Our old friends were accompanied +by three strangers, viz., an old man and two young ones, with their +wives and families. Our travelling companion Ivitchuk had shot some deer +with his gun, but having spent nearly all his ammunition, he requested +and obtained a small additional stock. + +Another Esquimaux, a jolly old fellow, with two wives, joined the party +here; he had come from the direction of Wager River this spring on the +ice. He and one or two more old men were nearly starved to death last +winter, being so much reduced that they could not walk. Twenty-three +salmon were got from the nets; some of these were in very poor +condition being evidently out of season; others were in fine order and +full of roe. + +22nd.--One of the old Esquimaux at the fishery speared a seal on the ice +near the edge of the open water, but it got away in consequence of the +line breaking. Their mode of approaching the seal requires much patience +and is very fatiguing, as the hunter must lie flat on his face or on his +side, and advance towards the seal by a series of motions resembling +those of the animal itself. He has frequently to proceed in this way +some hundred yards, but so well does he act his part that he can get +within a few feet of his object, and a looker-on would find much +difficulty in telling which was the man and which the seal. + +The seal actually comes to meet the hunter, who, as soon as it has got +some distance from its hole, springs up and intercepts its return. The +women are very expert at this mode of hunting, and frequently having no +spear, use a small club of wood with which they strike the seal on the +nose. + +The greater part of the Esquimaux were encamped about a quarter of a +mile from us, and had a _concert_ every night,--a union of the vocal and +the instrumental. Their only musical instrument is a sort of drum or +tambourine, consisting of a stout wooden hoop, about 30 inches in +diameter, round which, when it is to be used, a wet parchment deer skin +is stretched. In beating this rough instrument, the hoop, not the skin, +is struck. The performer being in the centre of the tent, keeps turning +slowly round, whilst four or five women add their voices to the +execrable sound, producing among them most horrible discord. Each of the +men in his turn takes up the drum and thumps away till he is tired, when +he lays it down and another takes his place, and so on it goes until it +has passed through the hands of all the males of the party, including +the boys. + +The whole of the natives, with the exception of a few old people who +were remaining at the fishing station, and three young men and their +wives, went the following day to an island four miles off for the +purpose of killing more seals, and also to put new covers on their canoe +frames. + +25th.--This was the anniversary of our arrival here last year; and +certainly everything wore a very different aspect from what it then did. +Last summer at this date there was no ice to be seen in Repulse Bay; the +snow had nearly all disappeared, and the various streams had shrunk to +their lowest level. _Now_ there was not a pool of water in the bay, +except where the entrance of a river or creek had worn away or broken up +the ice for a short distance. There was much snow on the ground in many +places, and most of the streams were still deep and rapid. + +The musquitoes were rather troublesome; but this I was not sorry for, as +the Esquimaux said that the ice in the bay would soon break up after +these tormentors made their appearance. + +As our native friends were now getting sufficient fish to maintain them, +they required no further assistance from us at present. Their mode of +catching salmon is a very simple one. They build a barrier of stones +about 1-1/2 or 2 feet high across a creek, some distance below high-water +mark. The salmon, which keep close to the shore at this season, are by +this means, during the ebb of the tide, cut off from the sea, and are +easily speared. About sixty were thus killed this day. The spear used is +usually made of two diverging pieces of musk-ox horn, from 4 to 5 inches +apart at the extremities; between these there is a prong of bone about 3 +or 4 inches shorter than the outer ones. Each of the longer prongs is +furnished with a barb on its inner side, made of a bent nail or piece of +bone, which prevents the fish from escaping. The handle is 6 or 8 feet +long. The head of the instrument much resembles a three-pronged fork, +with the middle prong a little shorter than the others. + +The moon was full this day. High-water at 45 minutes past noon. Arkshuk, +Shimakuk, and Kei-ik-too-oo visited us on the 28th, bringing a few pairs +of boots for sale. The tins which contained preserved meat, and table +knives and forks, were in great demand among these good folks. One of +the ladies to whom I gave a fork, used it as neatly in eating fish as if +she had been accustomed to it from childhood. Thermometer as high as ++60 deg. in the shade. + +The ice in the bay had broken up for more than a mile from the shore +opposite the mouth of the river, but some distance out it looked as +white and firm as ever. + +I had for some time observed that large stones, some of them of one or +two tons weight, were making their appearance on the ice; and I was much +puzzled to make out how they came there. They could not have fallen from +the shore, as the beach was sloping at the place, nor had they been +carried in by drift ice of the previous season. The only way that I +could account for it was this. At the commencement of winter the ice +layer acquiring considerable thickness, had become frozen to the stones +lying on the bottom, and raised them up when the tide came in. The +stones would get gradually enclosed in the ice as it grew thicker by +repeated freezings, whilst by the process of evaporation, which goes on +very rapidly in the spring, the upper surface was continually wasting +away, so that in June and July there was little of the first formed ice +remaining, and thus the stones which at first were on the under surface +of the ice appeared on the top. This may perhaps in some measure account +for boulders, sand, shells, &c. being sometimes found where geologists +fancy they ought not to be. Ice has been time out of mind the great +"conveyancer." + +August 1st.--We were visited this day by an Esquimaux named I-ik-tu-ang, +whom I had not before seen. He had passed the winter near the Ooglit +Islands, a few days' journey from Igloolik. He said that, when a boy, he +was frequently on board the Fury and Hecla in 1822-23, and that the +"Kabloonans" killed a number of walruses, and some black whales, with +two small boats; that the walruses were put in "cache" for them (the +Esquimaux), who were rather short of provisions at the time, and that +they received the _skins_ of the whales. They had abundance of +provisions last winter, but were visited by a very fatal disease--from +what I learnt of the symptoms, resembling influenza--which carried off +twenty-one grown-up persons. The children were not attacked with this +complaint. Two of the party at Igloolik had been reduced to the +necessity of putting to death and eating two children, to save +themselves from starvation. + +Four men, whilst hunting the sea-horse with their canoes lashed +together, were assaulted by this fierce animal, struck down with his +formidable tusks, their canoes capsized and broken, and the whole party +drowned. Another poor fellow having early in the winter harpooned a +walrus through a hole in the ice, was dragged into the water before he +could disengage himself from the line. The ice being still thin and +transparent, the body was found a few days after. + +I-ik-tu-ang also informed me--as I had already supposed from various +appearances--that there is open water throughout the winter between this +and the Frozen Strait, through which a strong current runs with the +flow and ebb of the tide,--so strong is it that when bears are pursued +and take the water, they are often swept under the ice and drowned. + +In the afternoon two more Esquimaux with their wives from the same +quarter, accompanied by Akkee-ou-lik and his family, made their +appearance. + +Some of the natives who had taken up their quarters near us were +supplied daily with fish. They appeared quite as indolent as most of the +other savage tribes of America, and never thought of looking out for +food, so long as they could get enough to support life from us. Although +they had a wear made for confining the salmon, they would not take the +trouble to spear them when in it. + +We endeavoured to get some young marmots, but without success. I find +that these curious little animals leave their winter habitations, which +are usually formed in dry sandy banks, as soon as the snow has in a +great measure disappeared, and take up their summer residence among the +rocks, where, I have no doubt, they are much safer from their numerous +enemies. + +The weather was still fine on the 6th, but it appeared to have little +effect on the ice in the bay, which still remained hard and fast. All +the largest and deepest lakes were covered with strong ice. + +9th.--On looking out this morning I was happy to see a lane of open +water stretching completely across the bay, but there was still a strong +barrier between us and the south point, although a passage to the +northward might easily have been made. The nets produced eighty salmon, +the greater part of which were given to the Esquimaux. The fishery was +now abandoned, as we could procure close at hand as many salmon as we +required. + +During the whole of our spring fishing Halkett's air-boat was used for +setting and examining the nets, and was preferred by the fishermen to +the large canvas canoe, as it was much lighter, and passed over and +round the nets with more facility. Notwithstanding its continued use on +a rocky shore, it never required the slightest repair. It is altogether +a most useful little vessel, and, as I have said before, ought to form +part of the equipment of all surveying parties, whether by land or sea. + +The men from the fishery were followed soon after by the Esquimaux with +their baggage, which it took more than a dozen trips of our canoe to +ferry over. + +The large lakes were still covered with a thick coat of ice. There were +a great many seals in the open water, and some of the fish in the nets +had been eaten by them. + +10th.--A storm from the north with rain and snow until noon, when the +wind somewhat abated, and the weather cleared up. Great havoc was made +among the ice, and in the evening there was a clear sea as far as the +point of the bay. + +11th.--There was a gale of wind all day with rain occasionally--the +weather cold and unpleasant. We were all busily employed in preparing +for sea. All the snow-banks for six or eight feet from the ground having +been converted into solid ice soon after the spring thaw commenced, we +had to dig out the chain and anchor of one of the boats, which were +buried under ice of that thickness; yet on the very spot where this +chain and anchor lay, there was not a particle of either ice or snow on +the 25th July last year; such is the variable nature of this northern +climate. + +In the afternoon Nibitabo was sent to endeavour to get some fresh +venison for our voyage, and shot two young deer; St. Germain and Mineau +set the nets for a supply of salmon, and I was busy distributing among +the Esquimaux axes, files, knives, scissors, &c. &c. &c. + +The large lakes were still covered with ice, but in the bay there was +little or none to be seen. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[4] Receipt.--Seven lbs. flour, 1 oz. carbonate soda, 3/4 oz. citric +acid, 3/4 oz. common salt, water (cold), about 1/2 gallon. The salt, +soda, and acid being finely powdered and dry, are to be well mixed +together; this mixture being well wrought up with the dry flour, the +water is to be added in 2 or 3 parts and mingled with the flour as +quickly as possible; the dough being put into pans is immediately to be +placed in the oven. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + Voyage from Repulse Bay to York Factory. + + +Having got every thing ready, the boat launched and loaded about 2 +o'clock P.M. on the 12th of August, I was about to distribute our spare +kettles, some hoop iron, &c. among the Esquimaux, when the compass of +one of the boats was missing. Search was made, but no compass was to be +found. At last I thought of turning over some heather that lay close to +where my tent had been, and there discovered it. It had been concealed +by one of the Esquimaux women--a widow--to whom more presents had been +made than to any of the others. + +Some of the most decent of the men appeared really sorry at parting, and +waded into the water to shake hands with me. + +We got under weigh with a light air of wind from the N.E. at 25 minutes +past 2. Our progress was very slow, there being frequent calms, so that, +between pulling and sailing, we reached only to within five miles of +Cape Hope at 4 A.M. of the 13th. A large black whale and some white +ones, with innumerable seals, were seen. Thermometer at +65; but it +became much colder after the wind came from sea. During the night we +sailed among loose ice. As it was still calm we anchored at half-past 4 +A.M. to wait for the other boat, which was some miles astern, to re-stow +the cargo and cook breakfast. Thermometer at 5 A.M. +48 deg. + +At half-past 6 we began pulling along shore. An hour afterwards a light +breeze sprung up, but still ahead. The breeze becoming stronger, we +hoisted sail and turned to windward, and would have made good progress +had it kept steady; instead of which it followed or rather preceded the +sun in his course westward, and thus headed us at every point we +weathered. The flood-tide assisted us until 4 P.M., when we put ashore, +as the ebb was too strong for us. Shot a young Arctic hare. There is a +number of long narrow lakes near the point we stopped at, which is +formed of grey and red granite and gneiss, and is about five miles from +the S.E. point of Repulse Bay. Caught three species of marine insects +with fins, which they use like wings: preserved specimens of them. Every +appearance of rain this evening. Thermometer +65 deg. at 8 P.M. + +14th. The wind shifted to the N.N.W. at half-past 9 last night, when we +immediately got under weigh and sailed cautiously along shore, examining +every bay and inlet when I supposed us near the northern outlet of +Wager River, but not a trace of it was to be seen. If it exists, I think +it not likely that it should have escaped our notice twice. The wind was +for a few hours variable and squally; but it now shifted to N.E. by N. +and blew hard. In crossing Wager River Bay, eight or ten miles from +shore, there was a very heavy cross sea, which washed over our gunwales +occasionally. On nearing the shore the run of the sea became more +regular; but the wind increased so as to make it necessary to reef +sails. The weather assuming a very threatening appearance, and the +navigation being intricate and dangerous, we were forced to seek a +harbour, which, after some difficulty, we found in a small bay at 8 +P.M., having run from ninety to ninety-five miles, seventy-three of +which were measured by Massey's patent log. Two white bears and many +walruses were seen on a small island near Whale Island; but the weather +was too stormy to permit us to pursue them. + +It had been my intention to cross over to Southampton Island and trace +that portion of the coast from Port Harding southward which had not yet +been surveyed; but a stream of ice and the state of the weather +prevented my doing so, nor did I think it an object of sufficient +importance to detain the expedition a day or two for that sole purpose. +Thermometer about +41 deg. all day. + +The male eider and king ducks appeared to have left this coast already, +there being none but females seen. Our boat took the ground about half +ebb--a fine bottom of sand and mud. + +15th.--It blew a complete gale all night and during the greater part of +this day. The sky, however, was sufficiently clear to allow me to obtain +a meridian observation for latitude and variation. The former was found +to be 64 deg. 49' 06" N.--the latter 41 deg. 27' W. Thermometer +46 deg. + +The wind began to fall in the evening, and the tide having come in so as +to float the boats, we started at 4 P.M. under reefed sails. The sea was +still running high, but it was long and regular; and as there was every +appearance of fine weather, I determined to sail all night, keeping a +sharp look-out ahead for shoals, reefs, and islets. There was a heavy +swell all night which broke with great violence on the reefs; and it +being very dark, both boats were once or twice nearly filled by getting +into shallow water before we were aware of it. + +16th.--At half-past 5 this morning we were opposite Cape Fullerton, and +at 6 Massey's log was examined, when it indicated a run of seventy-two +miles. At 9 A.M. it fell calm. Thermometer +43 deg. An hour afterwards +there was a light breeze from S.W., with which we turned to windward +among numerous rocky islands. + +At noon the latitude, 63 deg. 56' 13" N., was observed, and shortly +afterwards two Esquimaux were seen coming off in their kayaks, paddling +at a great rate; but the breeze had now freshened, and it would have +given them hard work to overtake us had we not shortened sail, and +afterwards landed on an island, where we waited for them. Three more +joined us there. They were very dirty, and far inferior in every respect +to our friends of Repulse Bay. One of them was about five feet eight +inches high, had a formidable beard and moustache, and was better +looking than the others. After making them some presents we shoved off, +and stood across the bay to the westward of Cape Fullerton. This bay is +much deeper than it is laid down in the chart, and is crowded with +islands. + +It was near high water when we reached the main shore, and as we could +make no progress against wind and tide, we put into a safe harbour. +Nothing was to be seen for a mile or two inland but rocks, clothed in +some spots with moss or grass. Deer were observed, and a young one shot +by Nibitabo. + +About an hour after our landing the wind shifted to W.N.W., and, as I +was afraid of getting aground in our present berth, the boats were moved +to a more open situation from which they could start at any time of +tide. + +The Esquimaux could tell us nothing about Churchill, none of them having +visited that place either this or the previous summer. Thermometer at 9 +P.M. +53. + +17th.--We were under weigh at 2 A.M., but the wind was both light and +close, so that our progress was slow. Before the tide changed it came +more from the southward; we were therefore obliged to anchor as soon as +it began to ebb. The latitude of our harbour was 63 deg. 47' 33" N. Var. +31 deg. 8' W. The rocks, like those where we landed last night, were grey +granite and gneiss. Thermometer at noon +60 deg. A large black whale was +seen this morning. + +At half-past 1 P.M. the tide began to flow, and at two we were under +sail, the wind having gone round to the northward, so as to permit us to +lie our course along shore. A succession of reefs lines the coast, which +is itself very irregular in its outline, being indented with numberless +inlets, some of them running many miles inland. + +The tide began to ebb at 8 P.M., and as the wind had fallen and headed +us, we ran in shore and cast anchor under the shelter of some rocks. It +was just getting dark when a fresh breeze of fair wind sprung up. This +was annoying enough. At 10 o'clock nine Esquimaux visited us, but staid +only a short time, as we were to stop near their tents in the morning. +Two of them said they would sleep on the rocks near us, with the +intention of pointing out the deepest channel when we should resume our +voyage. + +18th.--We started at daylight this morning, but the fair wind, which had +continued all night, soon failed us. Aided by the flood-tide, however, +an hour's rowing brought us to the encampment of our last night's +visitors, who welcomed us with much noise, and soon brought to the beach +a number of furs and other articles for trade. They were very easy to +deal with, apparently putting implicit confidence in our honesty; nor +were they losers by this conduct. Ammunition was the article chiefly in +demand, as they had two guns among the party. Files, knives, +fire-steels, &c. were distributed among the men, and beads, needles, +buttons, &c. among the women. One of the women was rather good-looking, +but they were all much darker than the natives of Repulse Bay. They were +well provided with food, as they had a large seal lying on the rocks, +besides venison. It was still calm when we left them, but favoured by +the ebb-tide we pulled out of the inlet, and shaped our course towards +Chesterfield Inlet, which we crossed with the last of the flood. The day +was beautiful--far too much so--and the few light airs of wind were all +against us. We landed in a small cove on the south side of the inlet to +pick up a deer that was shot from the boat. Four more deer were killed, +but all in poor condition. + +About two miles to the northward of the inlet I obtained a meridian +observation of the sun in the natural horizon, which gave latitude 63 +deg. 32' 00" N. Thermometer at noon +65 deg., and in the evening +70 deg. +The musquitoes were very numerous and troublesome. Numbers of turnstones +(_Tringa interpres_) were seen. + +19th.--There was a fine breeze again all last night, which died away at +daylight. As soon as the flood-tide began to come in, we started with a +light wind fair enough to allow us to lie our course along shore for a +few miles. It again fell calm, when we took to the oars and landed on a +point five miles to the southward of our last night's harbour, where we +breakfasted at 9 A.M. + +Dovekies in countless numbers were sitting on the stones, and swimming +along the shore;[5] one or two pintailed and mallard ducks were seen on +a lake a few hundred yards inland--the first we have seen since passing +Nevill's Bay last year. Some dovekies' eggs were found with the birds +formed in them. + +Having obtained a meridian observation of the sun, which gave for the +latitude 63 deg. 17' 00" N., and variation 9 deg. 21' W., we got under +weigh and beat to windward with the last of the ebb, which here ran to +the south. There was a fine breeze, but we made only about five miles +southing, when at 6 P.M. the flood setting in strong against us, we put +ashore for the night under the lee of the point. It was not easy to find +a harbour, all the coast from Chesterfield Inlet being flat and stony, +and lined with shoals. A young buck was shot, but it was in poor +condition. Thermometer at noon +63 deg.--at 8 P.M. +57 deg. Some of the +copper came off our boat to-day and stopped her way before it was observed. + +20th.--We were under weigh this morning by daylight, but the wind was +right ahead and blowing fresh. Some more copper came off the boat, and +she was evidently out of trim, as the Magnet went fast to windward of +us. She had become leaky also, and therefore I determined to lay her +aground as soon as the tide turned. + +We had gained between six and seven miles, when, finding that we made +but slow progress, I put on shore at the first place that offered +shelter, a little before noon. Several deer were seen, and a large buck +shot, which I was surprised to find very lean. At this season, near +Repulse Bay they are in fine condition. Thermometer at noon +61 deg. At +half-past 2 the wind changed to W.N.W., but it blew a gale before the +tide flowed sufficiently to float us. We could do nothing but haul out +into deeper water, to be ready by dawn next morning. + +Some pintails, mallards, and Hutchins and laughing geese were seen here; +also a brood of well-grown young king-ducks in a small lake at some +distance from the sea, with which it had no connection. + +Just as our boats floated, the wind became more moderate; and as we had +still an hour and a half of daylight, we sailed along the coast for 4-1/2 +miles, being forced to keep some miles from shore to avoid shoals. Soon +after sunset we ran into a bay for shelter during the night. In doing so +we grazed some ridges of stones, but found good anchorage in four +fathoms water. Thermometer +47 deg. + +21st.--Thermometer +44 deg. There was a strong breeze with heavy squalls +from the north all night. On starting at daylight and making for the +only outlet that appeared, we found it too shallow, and so were forced +to wait the flow of the tide. The wind was W. by N., but gradually +shifted round against us and became very light. We managed, however, to +reach an island near the north point of Rankin's Inlet. + +Although there was a fine breeze, it being right ahead, nothing was to +be gained against the ebb tide. + +We found many old signs of Esquimaux visits to the island. Among other +articles picked up were an ivory snow-knife, a drill for producing fire, +and an iron drill; also some vertebrae of a whale measuring ten inches in +diameter. There were numerous graves of Esquimaux here, with spears, +lances, &c. deposited beside them. Most of these articles were old and +much corroded with rust, but a very excellent seal-spear head had been +placed there this spring. Thermometer at noon +52 deg.; 8 P.M. +47 deg. +Temperature of water +41 deg. + +22nd.--Thermometer +42 deg. At a little before 5 this morning the wind +shifted to S.S.E. We set out to cross Rankin's Inlet, although we could +not lie our course, and after five hours' sailing reached an island near +the south shore, where we landed, as the breeze had increased to a gale +and gone more to the southward, with a heavy sea, which washed over us +occasionally. We here picked up some specimens of copper ore, but the +ore did not appear to be abundant. + +The aurora was very bright last night. It appeared first to the S.S.E., +moved rapidly northward, spreading all over the sky, and finally +disappearing in the north. This agrees with what Wrangel asserts, "that +the aurora is affected by the wind in the same way as clouds are." Heavy +rain and a strong gale from noon until 8 P.M. Temperature of water +42 +deg.; air +43 deg. + +23rd.--The wind was right ahead but light this morning. We got under +weigh and beat to windward some miles, alternately sailing and pulling +until we reached the north point of Corbett's Inlet. We were here +visited by eighteen Esquimaux in their kayaks. All the news they could +give us was that one of Ouligbuck's sons had passed the winter near +this place, and that he had walked to Churchill in the winter, where all +were then well. A brisk trade was soon opened; the articles in greatest +request being powder and ball. Some fox and wolf skins were received; +but before they had brought out the half of their stock, the wind +changed from S.W. to N.W. by W. and blew a gale, which soon raised a sea +that washed over the canoes alongside. Being anxious to take advantage +of the fair wind to cross Corbett's Inlet before dark, after making our +friends presents of various articles, we set sail and ran across the +inlet, encountering a heavy sea caused by a swell from the south meeting +the waves raised by the present gale. We were three hours crossing to +the south point of the inlet, off which lie some dangerous reefs five or +six miles from land. The wind was very close as we turned the point; and +after gaining six miles further, we were forced to make a number of +tacks before getting into a harbour, which proved to be an excellent +one, land-locked on all sides. Little soil was to be seen on the rocks, +which were of granite. We had shipped a good deal of water, and it was +past 9 P.M. when we got under shelter. Thermometer +45 deg. Hundreds of +grey phalaropes were seen, supposed to be Phalaropus fulicarius. + +24th.--It blew so hard this morning that we could not start until 8 +o'clock. The wind after that moderated gradually, and latterly fell +calm. By rowing we arrived at the S.E. end of the island[6] near Whale +Cove, where we were visited by a party of natives, who brought off some +furs and boots for trade. A breeze from S.S.E. sprung up about 1 +o'clock, with which we turned to windward through a narrow channel +between a small island and the main. When we reached the open sea the +wind was too much ahead for us to advance against the ebb tide, and as a +convenient harbour offered itself, we anchored for the night. Our +latitude at noon was 62 deg. 13' 19"; after which we advanced about four +miles to the southward. Ouligbuck told us that, when a little boy about +seven years old, he visited this place with his parents, and went out to +Sea-Horse Island on the ice to hunt the animals from which it takes its +name. Three large black whales were seen to-day. Thermometer +46 deg., ++53 deg., and +42 deg. + +I was much pleased to observe that the nearer we approached to +Churchill, the more confidence the Esquimaux placed in us. They fixed no +price for their goods, but threw them on board the boat, and left it to +me to pay them what I pleased. This confidential mode of dealing, which +is not in keeping with the habits of the Esquimaux tribes, at least +shows that they are satisfied with the treatment they receive at +Churchill. To the Hudson's Bay Company, indeed, they have much reason to +be grateful for having, by their influence, at last created a friendly +feeling between them and the Chipewyans, with whom they used to be at +constant and deadly enmity. + +25th.--There was heavy rain all last night, which continued until +between 9 and 10 o'clock this morning. We then got under weigh with the +first of the flood, but it fell calm. We rowed for fourteen or fifteen +miles, the rain pouring all the time. A fine breeze from N. by E. sprung +up at 4 P.M., before which we ran direct for the passage between Sir +Bibye's Islands; but finding the water become very shallow, and learning +from Ouligbuck that there was not water enough for boats except at full +tide, we kept outside the islands altogether. We reached the main land a +little after sunset at the south point of Nevill's Bay, and ran for +shelter into a small inlet separated on the south by a narrow point from +a deep river, to which the Esquimaux resort to catch salmon. Thermometer ++37 deg. and +41 deg. As the moon was full, I at first intended running +on all night, but the threatening look of the weather deterred me. + +26th.--Last night, about an hour after casting anchor, the moon became +overcast, and it blew a perfect gale. On landing this morning we found a +quantity of wood, a large sledge 30 feet long, and some slender pieces +of wood fastened together to the length of 40 feet. There were two of +these poles, which are used by the natives for spearing small seals. It +is said that, in Davis' Straits, the Esquimaux use poles of the same +kind for spearing whales. + +As the bay in which we were lying was not very safe should the wind +change, we got under weigh and turned into the mouth of the river under +close-reefed sails. The boats shipped much water, particularly the +Magnet, keeping a man constantly baling. We at last got under the lee of +a point where there was a sandy bottom, but not water enough to float +the boats at low tide. The river is about a mile broad, and deep enough +in the middle for a vessel drawing 12 or 14 feet water. + +We saw a number of whalebone snares set along the edges of the lakes for +geese, large flocks of which were feeding about, but very shy. There was +a storm from N.N.W. all the afternoon with heavy rain. Thermometer +36 +deg. + +27th.--It felt very cold this morning; the thermometer was at the +freezing point, and there was some snow. The storm had continued all +night with increasing strength, but towards day-light the weather became +more moderate, so that about 9 o'clock we were able to start under +reefed sails. The breeze gradually died away and went round to the S.W., +and it finally became calm. Heavy rain and sleet began to fall; the wind +veered round to the S.E., so that we could lie our course, and make good +progress with the flood. + +At 6 P.M. we reached a bay a few miles north of Knapp's Bay, which I had +not noticed on our outward voyage, and which is not laid down on the +charts. It is about ten miles wide and eight deep; the water in it is +very shallow, no where exceeding ten feet; and as it was within an hour +or two of high water, the greater part of it must be dry when the tide +is out. + +Numbers of Brent geese were feeding in all directions on a marine plant +(_zostera marina_, Linn.) which grows here in great abundance. + +We anchored under the lee of an islet in Knapp's Bay, a very small +portion of which was visible at high water. Thermometer +38 deg. + +28th.--We were under weigh at day-light this morning, with a strong +breeze of north-west wind, which made us close-reef our sails. There was +a heavy sea in Knapp's Bay. At 8 A.M. we passed to the westward of the +island, under which we found shelter during the gale of the 8th of July +last. The wind was cold, with occasional showers of rain. Great numbers +of geese were seen passing to the southward. In the evening the wind +became more moderate and finally calm. Our water-kegs being empty, I ran +inshore a little before sunset, and entered Egg River, in which we found +a safe harbour. This river discharges a considerable body of water into +the sea by five mouths, separated by four islets. There is no island +lying opposite to its mouth, as represented in the charts. Thermometer +from +35 deg. to +40 deg. + +29th.--The boat lay afloat all the night, which was fine but dark. +There was not a breath of wind until 7 o'clock. An hour after starting, +a moderate breeze sprung up from W. by N., but soon became light and +variable, and at last it fell calm a short time before sunset, when, +having gained about 40 miles, we pulled into a small bay, which afforded +us good shelter. The day was fine throughout, with occasional light +showers of rain. Thermometer from +45 deg. to +52 deg. + +The sky was too much overcast for me to obtain any observation, but it +appears to me that Egg River is laid down in the charts about 12 miles +too far to the southward, and Egg Island is 12 miles south of the river +instead of being near its mouth, as there represented. + +30th.--We had 13 feet water last night when the tide was in, but it was +not until the flood had made two hours that we floated. The night was as +fine as the last and calm. There was a light air of west wind when we +got under weigh, with which and the flood-tide we slipped alongshore +pretty fast. In an hour or two the wind began to fly about from all +points, with calms between, so that even with the help of our oars we +only made 22 miles; and not being able to reach Seal River, we ran into +a small bay--the only spot that appeared clear of stones for some +miles--about 12 miles north of it. Here abundance of drift wood was +found, with which the men lighted fires sufficiently large for the +coldest winter night. The evening was very warm, and the musquitoes +were troublesome. The country inland is well wooded. Great numbers of +mallard, teal, pintails, and long-tailed ducks were seen, but only two +or three were shot. + +31st.--Left our harbour as soon as the tide permitted, which was at 7 +A.M. A light but fair breeze from N. by W. gradually increased, so that +we made a fine run across Button's Bay, which is as full of rocks and +shoals as represented in the charts, and entering Churchill River a few +minutes after 1 P.M., landed in a small cove a few hundred yards above +the Old Fort. + +On visiting the Company's establishment, I found that Mr. Sinclair was +absent at York Factory; but I was very kindly received by Mrs. Sinclair, +and liberally supplied with everything we required for the continuation +of our voyage. As we had carried away our bowsprit, Turner was set to +make a new one. + +I received many letters from much valued friends, and after remaining +for a few hours, returned to the boats at 9 P.M. in order to be prepared +for starting early in the morning, should wind and weather prove +favourable. The stock of provisions on hand was eight bags of pemmican +and four cwt. of flour. We left Ouligbuck and his son at Churchill. + +3rd September.--For the last two days the wind had been fair, but +blowing a gale, with such a heavy sea that we could not proceed. The +weather was so cloudy that I could obtain no observations; I therefore +employed most of my time in shooting Esquimaux curlews, which were so +abundant near the Old Fort that I bagged seven brace in a few hours. + +This morning the wind shifted more to the westward, and becoming more +moderate, we got under weigh at 9 A.M. There was still a heavy swell +outside and at the entrance of our little harbour. Whilst coming out in +the dawn of the morning three seas came rolling in one after the other, +and broke completely over the bows of the boat, washing her from stem to +stern. I thought she would have filled, but we got into deep water +before any more seas caught her. The Magnet was even more roughly +handled in following us, having shipped much water and struck heavily on +the rocks--fortunately without damage. The wind died away, and during +the morning shifted to south. We, however, reached Cape Churchill, and +at 8 P.M. cast anchor under its lee, exactly opposite an old stranded +boat. + +4th.--We had a breeze from S.W. by S. to-day, which enabled us to get +along the coast sixteen or eighteen miles during the flood. It blew so +hard in the afternoon that we required to double-reef our sails. The +weather was very warm, the thermometer being as high as +60 deg. in the +shade. A Canada nuthatch (_sitta Canadensis_) flew on board to-day, and +was very nearly caught. There were a good many ducks and geese near the +place where we landed to get fresh water. Between thirty and forty of +the former and two of the latter were shot. The boats were allowed to +take the ground, after two hours' ebb, on a fine shingle beach, on which +a considerable surf was breaking. + +5th.--It was calm all night. At 3 this morning the boat floated, and we +pushed out a short distance from shore to be ready for the first fair +wind. At half-past seven a light air sprung up from N.E., but did not +increase till past noon, when there was a fine breeze. A meridian +observation of the sun gave latitude 58 deg. 26' 14" N. At 5 P.M. we were +opposite the mouth of Broad River, latitude 58 deg. 7' 0" N. Thermometer +at noon +56 deg. + +6th.--We were under weigh this morning a little before daylight with the +wind from N.E. The weather was so thick that we could not see more than +a hundred yards ahead. We, however, ran on by soundings until I thought +we were near North River, and then kept inshore until we got sight of +land, which proved to be close to Nelson River, across which we stood, +directing our course by compass, and coming in directly opposite the +beacon. We arrived at York Factory between 9 and 10 o'clock, P.M. and +were warmly welcomed by our friends, who had not expected to see us +until next summer. + +In justice to the men under me, let me here express my thanks for their +continued good conduct under circumstances sometimes sufficiently +trying;--in fact, a better set of fellows it would be difficult to find +anywhere. + +As to their appearance when we arrived at York Factory, I may adopt the +words of Corporal M'Laren in charge of the Sappers and Miners who are to +accompany Sir John Richardson,--"By George, I never saw such a set of +men." + +FOOTNOTES: + +[5] The dovekie, or black guillemot (_Uria grylle_), breeds in great +numbers in the Orkney islands. I believe ornithologists are mistaken in +supposing that this bird becomes white or rather grey during the winter. +It is only the young birds that are so; the old ones are seen in winter +without any change in the colour of their summer plumage. + +[6] This place is laid down on the chart as an island, but is a +peninsula according to the account we received from the Esquimaux. + + + + + APPENDIX. + + + LIST OF MAMMALIA, + + _Collected during Mr. Rae's Expedition, with Observations by J. + E. Gray, Esq., F.R.S. &c._ + +1. _Mus Musculus._ Linn. York Factory. Probably introduced from Europe. + +2. _Arctomys Parryi._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. p. 158, tab. 10. + +3. _Lepus Glacialis._ Leach. Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. 221. + +MYODES.--The specimens brought by the expedition have enabled me + to make some corrections in the characters assigned to these + species. I may observe that the large size or peculiar form of + the claws which has been regarded as a character of the species, + appears to be peculiar to one sex--probably the males. + +1. _The upper cutting teeth narrow, smooth without any + longitudinal groove. Thumb with a compressed curved acute claw._ + (Lemnus). + +_Myodes, Lemnus Pallas._ Glires 77 of Sweden. + +_Myodes Helvolus._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. p. 128, belong + to this section. All the museum specimens of these species have + small, simple, curved, acute claws. + +4. _Myodes Hudsonius._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. 132. + +Grey, black washed beneath white, sides reddish, sides of the + neck red, nose with a central black streak, claws of male(?) + very large, compressed, equal, broad to the end, and notched; of + female small, acute. In winter with very long black white-tipped + hairs. Mr. Rae brought home two males, one in winter and one in + change fur, and two females in summer fur. + +5. _Myodes Greenlandicus._ + +Reddish-grey, brown, black varied, back with a longitudinal + black streak, beneath grey brown, chest, nape, and sides + ruffous. Front claw of males(?) compressed, curved, the under + surface (especially of the middle one) with a broad, round, + expanded tubercle. I have not seen this species showing any + change in its winter fur. + +2. _Upper cutting teeth broader, with a central longitudinal + groove. The claw of the front thumb strap-shaped, truncated, and + notched at the tip._ + +6. _Myodes Helvolus._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. 128. (female?) + +Fur very long, black, grey-brown; black grizzled, hinder part of + the body reddish, beneath grey, sides yellowish. Claws of the + fore feet (of the males?) large, thick, rounded, curved, bluntly + truncated at the tip; of the female compressed, curved, acute. + +7. _Myodes Trimuconatus._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. 130. + +Bright red brown, head blackish-grey, sides and beneath pale + ruffous, chin white, claws moderate, compressed. This species is + best distinguished from the former by its larger size and the + great brightness of the colour, and the fur being much shorter + and less fluffy. + + + LIST OF THE SPECIES OF BIRDS + + _Collected by Mr. Rae during his late Expedition, named + according to the "Fauna Boreali-Americana," by G. R. Gray, Esq., + F.L.S._ + +FALCONIDAE. + + Aquila (Pandion) haliaeeta. + Falco peregrinus. + " islandicus. + Accipiter (Astur) palumbarius. + Buteo lagopus. + " (Circus) cyaneus. + +STRIGIDAE. + + Strix brachyota. + " funerea. + " Tengmalmi. + +JANIADAE. + + Tyrannula pusilla. + +MERULIDAE. + + Merula solitaria. + +SYLVIADAE. + + Sylvicola aestiva. + " coronata. + " striata. + " (Vermivora) rubricapilla. + " " peregrina. + Seiurus aquaticus. + Anthus aquaticus. + +FRINGILLIDAE. + + Alauda cornuta. + Emberiza (Plectrophanes) nivalis. + " " lapponica. + " " picta. + " canadensis. + " (Zonotrichia) leucophrys. + " " pennsylvanica. + " " iliaca. + Fringilla hyemalis. + Pyrrhula (Corythus) enucleator. + Logia leucoptera. + Linaria minor. + +STURNIDAE. + + Quiscalus versicolor. + Scolecophagus ferrugineus. + +CORVIDAE. + + Garrulus canadensis. + +PICIDAE. + + Picus (Apternus) tridactylus. + Colaptes auratus. + +RASORES. + + Tetrao canadensis. + " (Lagopus) mutus. + " " saliceti. + " (Centrocercus) phasianellus. + +GRALLATORES. + + Calidris arenaria. + Charadrius semipalmata. + + Vanellus melanogaster. + Strepsilas interpres. + Tringa Douglassii. + " maritima. + " alpina. + " Schinzii. + " pusilla. + " cinerea. + Totanus flavipes. + " macularius. + Limosa hudsonica. + Scolopax Wilsoni. + Phalaropus hyperboreus. + " fulicarius. + +NATATORES. + + Podiceps cornutus. + Larus argentatoides. + Lestris pomarina. + " parasitica. + " Richardsoni. + Anas (Boschas) crecca, var. + " " discors. + Somateria spectabilis. + " mollissima. + Oidemia perspicillata. + " americana. + Harelda glacialis. + Mergus serrator. + Anser albifrons. + " hyperboreus. + " Hutchinsii. + " bernicla. + Colymbus arcticus. + " septentrionalis. + + Myiodioctes pusilla. + Regulus calendula. + Sitta canadensis. + Linaria borealis. + Tringa rufescens. + " pectoralis. + Totanus solitarius. + + + FISHES, + + _Collected during Mr. Rae's Expedition. By J. E. Gray, Esq., + F.R.S._ + +GADIDAE. + + _Lota Maculosus._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. iii. 248. Male + and female. + +ESOCIDAE. + + _Esox. Lucius._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. iii. 124. Female. + +CYPRINIDAE. + + _Catastomus Forsterianus?_ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. iii. + 116. Female. Lakes near York Factory. The "Red Sucker." + + _Catastomus Hudsonius._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. iii. 112. + River near York Factory. "The Grey Sucker." + +SALMONIDAE. + + _Salmo. Salar??_ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. 145. Repulse Bay. + + _Salmo Hoodii._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. iii. 173, t. 82, f. + 2, t. 83, f. 2, t. 87, f. 1. Male and female. Lakes near York + Factory. + + _Salmo Coregonus Albus._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. 195. t. + 89, f. 2, a. b. Male. The Attihawmeg. Lower jaw shortest; ridge + behind the eye becoming close to the orbit beneath the eye. + + _Salmo (Coregonus) Tullibee._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. 201. + Lakes near York Factory. "The Tullibee." Lower jaw shortest, + ridge behind continued distant from the orbit and produced + towards the nostrils. + + _Salmo Coregonus Harengus?_ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. 210. t. + 90, f. 2, a. b. Lower jaw longest, ridge behind the eyes + becoming rather nearer to, but distinct from, the orbit beneath. + River near York Factory. + + + PLANTS, + + _Named by_ SIR W. J. HOOKER, K.H., D.C.L., F.R.A. & L.S. &c. &c. &c. + + + _Plants collected on the Coast between YORK FACTORY and CHURCHILL, + and in the neighbourhood of Churchill._ + + + DICOTYLEDONES. + +RANUNCULACEAE, _Juss._ + + 1. Anemone _Richardsoni_, Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. 6, Tab. 4, A. + + 2. Ranunculus _Lapponicus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 16. + +CRUCIFERAE, _Juss._ + + 3. Nasturtium _palustre_, De Cand.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 39. + + 4. Arabis _petraea_, Lam.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 42. + + 5. Cardamine _pratensis_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 45. + + 6. Draba _hirta_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 52. + + 7. Draba _alpina_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 50. + +CARYOPHYLLEAE, _Juss._ + + 8. Stellaria _Edwardsii_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 96, Tab. + 31. + + 9. Cerastium _alpinum_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 104. + + 10. Silene _acaulis_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 87. + + 11. Arenaria _peploides_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 102. + +LEGUMINOSAE, _Juss._ + + 12. Phaca _astragalina_, De Cand.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 145. + + 13. Oxytropis _campestris_, De Cand.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 147. + + 14. Oxytropis _deflexa_, De Cand.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 148. + + 15. Hedysarum _Mackenzii_, Rich.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 155. + +ROSACEAE, _Juss._ + + 16. Dryas _integrifolia_, Vahl.--Hook. Ex. Fl. Tab. 200, Fl. + Bor. Am. i. p. 174. + + 17. Rubus _acaulis_, Mich.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 182. + + 18. Potentilla _anserina_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 189. + + 19. Potentilla _pulchella_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 191. + + 20. Potentilla _nivea_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 195. + +ONAGRARIEAE, _Juss._ + + 21. Epilobium _latifolium_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 205. + +SAXIFRAGEAE, _Juss._ + + 22. Saxifraga _oppositifolia_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 242. + + 23. Saxifraga _caespitosa_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 244. + + 24. Saxifraga _Hirculus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 252. + + 25. Saxifraga _tricuspidata_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 254. + +COMPOSITAE, _Juss._ + + 26. Nardosmia _corymbosa_, Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 307 + (Tussilago corymbosa, Br.) + + 27. Achillaea _millefolium_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 318. + + 28. Chrysanthemum _arcticum_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 319. + + 29. Pyrethrum _inodorum_, Sm.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 320. + + 30. Senecio _aureus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 333. var. nanus. + + 31. Arnica _montana_, L.--[Greek: b]. _angustifolia_, Hook. Fl. + Bor. Am. i. p. 330. + +CAMPANULACEAE, _Juss._ + + 32. Campanula _uniflora_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 29. + +ERICEAE, _L._ + + 33. Ledum _palustre_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 44.--var. + [Greek: a]. _angustifolium_; and var. [Greek: b]. _latifolium_. + + 34. Azalea _procumbens_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 44. + + 35. Rhododendron _Lapponicum_, Wahl.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 43. + + 36. Vaccinium _Vitis Idaea_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 34. + +MONOTROPEAE, _Nutt._ + + 37. Pyrola _rotundifolia_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 46. + +BORAGINEAE, _Juss._ + + 38. Lithospermum _maritimum_, Lehm.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. + 86. + +SCHOPHULARINEAE, _Juss._ + + 39. Castilleja _pallida_, Benth.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 105. + + 40. Bartsia _alpina_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 106. + + 41. Pedicularis _Wlassoviana_, Stev.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 107. + + 42. Pedicularis _Lapponica_, L.--Hook. Fl. Am. ii. p. 108. + + 43. Pedicularis _Sudetica_, Willd.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 109. + + 44. Pedicularis _flammea_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 110. + + 45. Pedicularis _euphrasioides_, Stev.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. + p. 108. + +PRIMULACEAE, _Juss._ + + 46. Androsace _septentrionalis_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 119. + + 47. Primula _Hornemanniana_, Lehm.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 120. + +POLYGONEAE, _Juss._ + + 48. Polygonum _viviparum_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 130. + +AMENTACEAE, _Juss._ + + 49. Salix _Richardsoni_, Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 147, Tab. 182. + + 50. Salix _vestita_, Ph.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 152. + + 51. Salix _Arctica_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 152. + + 52. Betula _glandulosa_, Mx.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 156. + + 53. Betula _nana_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 156. + + + MONOCOTYLEDONES. + +MELANTHACEAE, _Br._ + + 54. Tofieldia _palustris_, Huds.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 179. + +ORCHIDEAE, _Juss._ + + 55. Platanthera _obtusata_, Lindl.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. + 196, Tab. 199. + + 56. Platanthera _rotundifolia_, Lindl.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. + p. 200, Tab. 201. + +CYPERACEAE, _Juss._ + + 57. Carex _dioica_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 208. + + 58. Carex _fuliginosa_, Sternb. and Hoppe.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. + ii. p. 224. + + 59. Eriophorum _capitatum_, Host.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 231. + + 60. Eriophorum _polystachyon_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 231. + + + _Collected between CHURCHILL and REPULSE BAY._ + + + DICOTYLEDONES. + +RANUNCULACEAE, _Juss._ + + 1. Ranunculus _affinis_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 12, Tab. 6 A. + +PAPAVERACEAE, _Juss._ + + 2. Papaver _nudicaule_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 34. + + 3. Arabis _petraea_, Lam.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 42. + + 4. Cardamine _pratensis_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 45. + + 5. Draba _alpina_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 50. + + 6. Eutrema _Edwardsii_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 67. + +CARYOPHYLLEAE, _Juss._ + + 7. Silene _acaulis_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 89. + + 8. Lychnis _apetala_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 94. + + 9. Stellaria _Edwardsii_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 96. Tab. 31. + + 10. Cerastium _alpinum_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 104. + +LEGUMINOSAE, _Juss._ + + 11. Oxytropis _campestris_, De Cand.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 146. + + 12. Oxytropis _Uralensis_, De Cand.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 145. + + 13. Phaca _astragalina_, De Cand.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 145. + +ROSACEAE, _Juss._ + + 14. Dryas _integrifolia_, Vahl.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 174. + + 15. Rubus _Chamaemorus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 183. + + 16. Potentilla _nana_, Lehm.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 194. + +ONAGRARIEAE, _Juss._ + + 17. Epilobium _latifolium_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 205. + +SAXIFRAGEAE, _Juss._ + + 18. Saxifraga _oppositifolia_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 242. + + 19. Saxifraga _caespitosa_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 246. + + 20. Saxifraga _cernua_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 246. + + 21. Saxifraga _rivularis_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 246. + + 22. Saxifraga _Hirculus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 252. and + var. _bi-triflora_. + + 23. Saxifraga _tricuspidata_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 253. + +COMPOSITAE, _Juss._ + + 24. Leontodon _Taraxacum_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 296. + + 25. Chrysanthemum _integrifolium_, Rich.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. + p. 319, Tab. 109. + + 26. Erigeron _uniflorus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 17. + +CAMPANULACEAE, _Juss._ + + 27. Campanula _uniflora_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 29. + +ERICEAE, _Juss._ + + 28. Andromeda _tetragona_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 38. + + 29. Ledum _palustre_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 44. var. + _angustifolium_. + +DIAPENSIACEAE, _Lindl._ + + 30. Diapensia _Lapponica_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 76. + +BORAGINEAE, _Juss._ + + 31. Lithospermum _maritimum_, Lehm.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 36. + +SCROPHULARINEAE, _Juss._ + + 32. Pedicularis _hirsuta_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 109. + + 33. Pedicularis _Langsdorffii_, Fisch.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. + p. 109. + +PLUMBAGINEAE, _Juss._ + + 34. Statice _Armeria_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 123. + +AMENTACEAE, _Juss._ + + 35. Salix _Myrsinites_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 151. + + 36. Salix _Arctica_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 152. + + + MONOCOTYLEDONES. + +JUNCEAE, _Juss._ + + 37. Luzula _hyperborea_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 188. + +CYPERACEAE, _Juss._ + + 38. Carex _membranacea_,--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 220. + + 39. Eriophorum _polystachyon_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 231. + +GRAMINEAE, _Juss._ + + 40. Alopecurus _alpinus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 234. + + 41. Hierochloe _alpina_, Roem. et Sch.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. + p. 234. + + 42. Colpodium _latifolium_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 238. + + 43. Poa _Arctica_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 246. + + 44. Festuca _brevifolia_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 250. + + 45. Elymus _arenarius_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 255. + + + _Plants collected between REPULSE BAY and CAPE LADY PELLY._ + + + DICOTYLEDONES. + +RANUNCULACEAE, _Juss._ + + 1. Ranunculus _Lapponicus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 16. + +PAPAVERACEAE, _Juss._ + + 2. Papaver _nudicaule_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 34. + +CRUCIFERAE, _Juss._ + + 3. Cardamine _pratensis_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 44. + + 4. Draba _alpina_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 50. + + 5. Draba _stellata_, Jacq.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 53. + +CARYOPHYLLEAE, _Juss._ + + 6. Stellaria _humifusa_, Rottb.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 97. + + 7. Cerastium _alpinum_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 104. + +LEGUMINOSAE, _Juss._ + + 8. Oxytropis _Uralensis_, De Cand.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. + 145. + + 9. Oxytropis _campestris_, De Cand.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 147. + +ROSACEAE, _Juss._ + + 10. Dryas _integrifolia_, Vahl.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 174. + + 11. Potentilla _nana_, Lehm.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 190. + +ONAGRARIEAE, _Juss._ + + 12. Epilobium _latifolium_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 204. + +SAXIFRAGEAE, _Juss._ + + 13. Saxifraga _oppositifolia_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 242. + + 14. Saxifraga _cernua_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 245. + + 15. Saxifraga _rivularis_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 246. + + 16. Saxifraga _nivalis_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 248. + + 17. Saxifraga _foliolosa_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 251. + + 18. Saxifraga _Hirculus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 252. + +COMPOSITAE, _Juss._ + + 19. Leontodon _Taraxacum_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 296. + + 20. Pyrethrum _inodorum_, Sm.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. i. p. 320. + + 21. Arnica _montana_, L.--[Greek: b]. _angustifolia_, Hook. Fl. + Bor. Am. i. p. 330. + + 22. Erigeron _uniflorus_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 17. + +ERICEAE, _Juss._ + + 23. Andromeda _tetragona_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 38. + +MONOTROPEAE, _Nutt._ + + 24. Pyrola _rotundifolia_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 46. + +SCROPHULARINEAE, _Juss._ + + 25. Pedicularis _hirsuta_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 109. + +AMENTACEAE, _Juss._ + + 26. Salix _Arctica_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 152. + + + MONOCOTYLEDONES. + +JUNCEAE, _Juss._ + + 27. Luzula _hyperborea_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 188. + +CYPERACEAE, _Juss._ + + 28. Carex _dioica_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 208. + + 29. Carex _membranacea_, Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 220. + + 30. Carex _caespitosa_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 217. + + 31. Carex _ustulata_, Wahl.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 224. + + 32. Eriophorum _capitatum_, Host.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 231. + +GRAMINEAE, _Juss._ + + 33. Hierochloe _alpina_, Roem. and Sch.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. + p. 234. + + 34. Colpodium _latifolium_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 238. + + 35. Dupontia _Fischeri_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 242. + + 36. Poa _Arctica_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 246. + + 37. Poa _angustata_, Br.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 246. + + 38. Poa _alpina_, L.--Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii. p. 246. + + + SPECIMENS OF ROCKS, + + _Described by JAMES TENNANT, ESQ., Professor of Mineralogy in + King's College, London._ + + +CAPE LADY PELLY, 67 deg. 30' N. 88 deg. W. + + Gneiss. + +NEAR POINT HARGRAVE, 67 deg. 25' N. 87 deg. 35' W. + + Gneiss. + +CAPE T. SIMPSON, 67 deg. 22' N. 87 deg. W. + + Gneiss with chlorite. + + Mica-slate. + + Mica-slate, with indistinct crystals of precious Garnets. + +ISTHMUS connecting Ross's Peninsula with the Continent. + + Felspar. + +SIMPSON'S PENINSULA, 68 deg. 1/3' N. 88 deg. 20' W. + + Compact argillaceous Limestone. + +A HILL on the western shore of Halkett's Inlet, 69 deg. 14' N. 90 deg. +50' W. + + Cellular Quartz, coloured by oxide of Iron. + + Mica-slate full of Garnets. + +HELEN ISLAND, one of the Harrison Group in Pelly Bay, 68 deg. 54' N. +89 deg. 52' W. + + Felspar--red colour. + + Gneiss; the Felspar, Mica, and Quartz distinctly stratified. + + Gneiss; the Felspar red and greatly predominating. + +BEACON HILL, near Fort Hope, 66 deg. 32' N. 86 deg. 56' W. + + Granite. + + Ditto, with a small quantity of Mica; the Felspar red, and + constituting four-fifths of the mass. + + Gneiss, with veins of red Felspar running diagonally to the + stratification. + + Mica-slate. + +NORTH POLE RIVER. + + Mica-slate. + + Ditto, with veins of Quartz. + + Gneiss. + + Ditto, the Felspar red and greatly predominating. + + Ditto, the Felspar very friable. + + Quartz rock with Felspar. + + Argillaceous Limestone, compact. + +NORTH POLE LAKE, 66 deg. 40' N. 87 deg. 2' W. + + Gneiss. + + Mica-slate. + +REPULSE BAY, 66 deg. 32' N. 86 deg. 56' W. + + Quartz, coloured by oxide of Iron, and containing minute + particles of Gold. + +MELVILLE PENINSULA, 68 deg. 27' N. 85 deg. 24' W. + + Hornblende-slate. + +MUNRO INLET. + + Granite, the Felspar greatly predominating. + +ISLAND near the north point of Rankin's Inlet. + + Quartz, enclosing chlorite and Copper Pyrites. + + Talcose-slate. + + Carbonate and silicate of Copper, with Copper Pyrites on + argillaceous slate. + + Ditto, with a thin coating of green carbonate of Copper. + + Mica-slate. + + Chlorite-slate, friable. + + Ditto, with very thin veins of Calcareous Spar running + diagonally in stratification. + +ISLAND near the south point of Rankin's Inlet. + + Quartz and Iron Pyrites; the latter crystallized in cubes, the + faces of which are not above one-sixteenth of an inch. + + Quartz, with Iron Pyrites, and superficially coloured by oxide + of Iron. + + Hornblende-slate. + + Mica-slate. + + Chlorite-slate. + + + + + _Dip of the needle and force of magnetic attraction at various + stations along the west shore of Hudson's Bay, and at Fort Hope, + Repulse Bay._ + +------------+--------+-------+----------------+--------+-------+-----------+-----+--------- + Name of |Latitude|Longi- | Date. |Times. | Dip | Time |Therm|Variation + Station | N. |tude | | | Mean. | of 10 | |of + | | W. | | | | Vibra- | |Compass. + | | | | | | tions. | | +------------+--------+-------+----------------+--------+-------+-----------+-----+--------- + |d. m. s.|d. m.s.| |h. mi. |d. m.s.| Needle |d. m.|d. m. s. + | | | | | | No. 2 | | + | | | | | | deflected,| | + | | | | | | 20 deg. | | + | | | | | | from dip. | | +York Factory|57 0 2|92 26 0| 5 Nov. 1845 | 9 0 AM|83 47 0| |+31 0| + " |57 0 0|92 26 0| 8 " | 9 0 " |83 43 0| |+25 0| + " | " | " | 12 " | 2 30 PM|83 37 0| |+25 0| + " | " | " | 15 " | 9 0 AM|83 41 0| |+33 0| + " |57 0 0|92 26 0| 19 " | 9 0 " |83 42 5| |+25 0| + " | " | " | 22 " | 9 30 " |83 43 4| |+ 3 0| + " | " | " | 26 " | 9 30 " |83 48 7| |- 4 0| + " | " | " | 29 " | 9 30 " |83 42 5| |-13 0| + " | " | " | 3 Dec." | 9 30 " |83 54 2| |- 6 0| + " | " | " | 6 " | 9 30 " |83 43 2| |+ 8 0| + " | " | " | 10 " | 9 30 " |83 43 5| |-19 0| + " | " | " | 13 " | 9 30 " |83 48 2| | 0 0| +York Factory|57 0 0|92 26 0| 17 Dec. 1845 | 9 35 AM|83 40 9| |-11 0| + " | " | " | 20 " | 9 30 " |83 39 1| |-16 0| + " | " | " | 24 " |10 10 " |83 45 5| |-23 0| + " | " | " | 31 " |10 30 " |83 46 0| |+ 7 0| + " | " | " | 3 Jan. 1846 |10 30 " |83 46 1| |+20 0| + " | " | " | 7 " |10 30 " |83 47 0| |+ 5 0| + " | " | " | 10 " |10 30 " |83 45 5| |+ 7 0| + " | " | " | 14 " |10 30 " |83 43 9| |- 2 0| + " | " | " | 21 " |10 30 " |83 44 8| |-10 0| + " | " | " | 24 " |10 30 " |83 41 7| |+23 5| + " | " | " | 28 " |10 30 " |83 45 8| |+15 0| + " | " | " | 31 " {|10 0 AM|83 45 8| {|-15 0| + | | | {| 3 0 PM| | {|- 3 0| + " | " | " | 4 Feb." {|10 0 AM|83 50 5| {|-12 5| + | | | {| 3 0 PM| | {|-14 0| + " | " | " | 7 " |10 0 AM|83 45 5| |-11 5| +York Factory|57 0 0|92 26 0| 11 Feb. 1846 {|10 0 AM|83 44 8| {|- 5 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|-11 3| + " | " | " | 14 " {| 9 30 AM|83 41 6| |-23 0| + | | | {| 3 20 PM|83 38 1| |- 8 0| + " | " | " | 18 " {| 9 30 AM|83 36 6| {|+ 6 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|- 3 0| + " | " | " | 21 " {| 9 30 AM|83 41 0| {|-11 5| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+ 6 0| + " | " | " | 25 " {| 9 30 AM|83 40 9| {|-23 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|-10 5| + " | " | " | 28 " {| 9 30 AM|83 39 7| {|-13 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+ 4 0| + " | " | " | 4 Mar." {| 9 30 AM|83 44 1| {|+ 6 5| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+ 4 0| + " | " | " | 7 " {| 9 30 AM|83 42 5| {|+29 0| + | | | {| 3 40 PM| | {|+37 0| + " | " | " | 11 " {| 9 30 AM|83 44 6| {|+26 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+25 0| + " | " | " | 14 " {| 9 30 AM|83 40 9| {|+12 5| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+22 0| + " | " | " | 18 " {| 9 30 AM|83 39 6| {|+15 5| + | | | {| 3 40 PM| | {|+21 0| + " | " | " | 21 " {| 9 30 AM|83 37 7| {|- 2 5| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+ 5 8| + " | " | " | 25 " {| 9 40 AM|83 47 0| {|+30 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+30 0| + " | " | " | 28 " {| 9 35 AM|83 43 8| {|+ 8 5| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+ 8 0 +York Factory|57 0 0|92 26 0| 1 April 1846 {| 9 30 AM|83 42 8| {|+ 8 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+15 0| + " | " | " | 4 " {| 9 30 AM|83 45 2| {|+35 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+25 0| + " | " | " | 11 " {| 9 40 AM|83 40 6| {|+41 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+42 0| + " | " | " | 15 " {| 9 35 AM|83 35 7| {|- 3 5| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|- 6 0| + " | " | " | 18 " {| 9 30 AM|83 40 2| {|+ 9 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+29 0| + " | " | " | 22 " {| 0 30 AM|83 38 9| {|+45 0| + | | | {| 3 35 PM| | {|+40 0| + " | " | " | 25 " {| 0 0 AM|83 35 5| Ther. {|+43 0| + | | | {| | |+40 deg 0'{| | + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | 21s.--34 {|+32 0| + " | " | " | 29 " {| 9 45 AM|83 38 0| Ther. {|+42 0| + | | | {| | |+46 deg 0'{| | + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | 21s.--23 {|+43 0| + " | " | " | 2 May " {| 9 30 AM|83 38 5| {|+39 0| + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | {|+47 0| + " | " | " | 6 " {| 9 30 AM|83 37 9| Ther. {|+51 0| + | | | {| | |+66 deg 0'{| | + | | | {| 3 30 PM| | 21s.--31 {|+67 0| + " | " | " | 16 " {| 9 35 AM|83 39 0| Ther. {|+36 0| + | | | {| | |+43 deg 0'{| | + | | | {| 3 35 PM| | 21s.--13 {|+44 0| +Creek |58 2 0|92 20 | 20 June " | 3 45 PM|84 46 4| |+49 0| +Churchill |58 43 50|94 14 | 29 " {| 9 47 AM|84 50 8| Ther. {|+60 0| + | | | {| | |+61 deg 0'{| | + | | | {| 3 35 PM| | 21s.--14 {|+61 0| + " | " | " | 1 July " {|10 30 AM|84 43 9| {|+88 0| + | | | {| 3 0 PM| | {|+60 0| +Churchill |58 43 50|94 14 0| 4 July 1846 | 8 10 PM|84 44 5| |+41 0| +Knapp's Bay |61 9 42| " | 8 " |10 45 AM|86 18 3| {|+52 0| + | | | | | | {|+51 0| + " | " | " | 8 " | 3 0 PM| | | | + " | " | " | 12 " | 5 15 PM|87 16 3| {|+58 0| + | | | | | | {|+52 0| + " |64 6 0|88 0 0| 18 " | Noon. |86 36 5| Ther. {|+54 0| + | | | {| | |+54 deg 0' | | + | | | | | | 20s.--84 | | +Near Wager |65 10 0| " | 21 " | 4 5 PM|87 10 6| Ther. |+52 0| +River | | | {| | |+65 deg 0' | | + | | | | | | 21s.--03 | | + " |65 15 36|87 10 0| 22 " |11 35 AM| | |+52 0| +Repulse Bay |66 32 0| " | 27 " |11 15 AM|88 16 7| Ther. {|+55 0| + | | | {| | |+57 deg 0'{| | + | | | | | | 21s.--7 {|+57 0| +Flett's | | " | 28 " {| 2 40 PM| | {|+90 0| +Portage | | | {| 3 15 PM| | {|+82 0| +Descent | " | " | 31 " {| 6 20 PM| | |+53 0| +Portage | | | {| 6 50 PM| | | | +Cape Lady | " | " | 3 Aug. " | | | | | +Pelly | | | | | | | | +3 Miles N.W.| " | " | " | 5 30 PM|88 27 1| Ther. |+52 0| +of do. | | | {| | |+52 deg 0' | | + | | | {| | | 21s.--8 | | +Fort Hope |66 32 0|86 56 0| 18 Nov. " {|11 15 AM|87 51 5| {|-6 0|West + | | | {| 2 0 PM| | {|-5 0|62 50 30 + " | " | " | 21 " {| 9 45 AM|88 11 4| Ther. {|+6 0| + | | | {| | |+10 deg 5' {| | + | | | {| 2 15 PM| | 22s.--66 {|+10 0| +Fort Hope |66 32 0|86 56 0| 25 Nov. 1846 | 2 10 PM|88 8 9| {|-21 0| + | | | | | | {|-15 0| + " | " | " | 5 Dec. " {|10 0 AM|88 13 9| Ther. {|-13 0| + | | | {| | | +9 deg 0' {| | + | | | {| 2 0 PM| | 22s.--6 {|-16 0| + " | " | " | 12 " {|10 10 AM|88 13 3| {|+ 6 0| + | | | {| 2 5 PM| | {|+ 8 0| + " | " | " | 16 " {|10 0 AM|88 12 7| {| 0 0| + | | | {| 2 20 PM| | {|+ 2 0| + " | " | " | 23 " {|10 0 AM|88 16 3| {|- 7 0| + | | | {| 2 0 PM| | {|- 8 0| + " | " | " | 2 Jan. 1847 {|10 10 AM|88 17 5| {|-23 0| + | | | {| 2 30 PM| | {|-21 5| + " | " | " | 10 Feb. " {| 9 50 AM|88 10 9| {|-22 0| + | | | {| 2 10 PM| | {|-20 0| + " | " | " | 13 " {| 9 50 AM|88 13 5| {|-28 0| + | | | {| 2 10 PM| | {|-26 0| + " | " | " | 17 " {| 9 50 AM| | {|-36 0| + | | | {| 2 15 PM| | {|-33 0| + " | " | " | 24 " {| 9 55 AM| | {|-22 0| + | | | {| 2 10 PM| | {|-22 0| +York Factory|57 0 0|92 26 0| 18 Sept. " {| 9 15 AM|83 47 0| |+52 0| + | | | {| 3 10 PM| | | | + + + + + Fort Hope, Repulse Bay. + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for September, 1846._ + + +-----+-------------------------------+---------------------------------- +Day | Temperature of the Atmosphere | +of | taken eight times in twenty- | Prevailing Winds. +the | four hours. | +Month+----------+----------+---------+----------------------+----------- + |_Highest._|_Lowest._ | _Mean._ | _Direction._ |_Force._ +-----+----------+----------+---------+----------------------+----------- + | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | | | + 1 | +35 | +27 | +29.7 | E.S.E | 2-4 + 2 | +37 | +27 | +31 | E.S.E. | 5-4 + 3 | +36 | +25 | +31 | E.--Vble. | 9-1 + 4 | +34 | +28 | +30.3 | E. by S. | 8 + 5 | +42 | +26 | +32.7 | O.--N.N.W. | 0-7 + 6 | | | | N. | 6 + 7 | +31 | +25 | +27 | N. | 6 + 8 | +35 | +26 | +30.5 | N.N.W. | 6 + 9 | | | | N.N.W. | 6 + 10 | +32 | +30 | +31.3 | N.N.W.--O.--S.E. | 4-5 + 11 | +34 | +31 | +32.5 | E. by S. | 10-8 + 12 | | | | E. by S.--S. E. by E.| 9-5 + 13 | | | | S.W. by S.--S.W. | 5-9 + 14 | | | | | + 15 | +45 | +45 | +45 | S.S. | 4 + 16 | +34 | +25 | +28.7 | Vble.--O.--E. by N. | 1-2 + 17 | +32 | +24 | +28 | W. | 2-3 + 18 | +29 | +26 | +27.7 | N.W.--W.N.W. | 6-7 + 19 | +33 | +26 | +29.7 | W.N.W.--O.--E. | 9-0 + 20 | +32 | +24 | +28 | N.N.W. | 5-4 + 21 | +36 | +24 | +29.3 | N.--O.--E. | 0-3 + 22 | +31 | +23 | +27.7 | N. by W. | 5-6 + 23 | +28 | +16 | +22.3 | W.N.W. | 3-4 + 24 | +42 | +21 | +29.3 | Vble. | 1-0 + 25 | +30 | +16 | +24.3 | Vble. | 0-2 + 26 | +30 | +26 | +28 | E.N.E. | 8-9 + 27 | +26 | +24 | +25 | N. by W. | 5-6 + 28 | +26 | +20 | +22.7 | N.N.W. | 7-6 + 29 | +24 | +22 | +23 | W.N.W. | 4 + 30 | +22 | +18 | +19.7 | Vble.--S.E. by E. | 1-4 + ------ + 714.4 + ------ + +28.57 + + +----+------------------+------------------------------------------------ +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +the | attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. +Mon.+--------+---------+ + |_Barom._|_Thermo._| +----+--------+---------+------------------------------------------------ + 1 | | | c. c. o. Solar halo with parhelia. + 2 | | | c. c. c. + 3 | | | s. b. c. + 4 | | | c. c. c. p. of sleet. + 5 | | | c. c. o. Full moon. + 6 | | | p. s. o. + 7 | | | p. s. c. + 8 | | | c. p. s. + 9 | | | c. p. s. + 10 | | | c. b. c. o. + 11 | | | s. c. s. c. b. much drift. + 12 | | | o. c. c. [quarter moon symbol] last quarter. + 13 | | | b. c. + 14 | | | + 15 | | | c. p. s. + 16 | | | c. c. c. + 17 | | | b. c. + 18 | | | o. s. s. + 19 | | | s. s. + 20 | | | s. o. c. s. + 21 | | | c. c. c. + 22 | | | s. s. b. + | | | Aurora visible to the southward at 8 P.M. + 23 | | | b. b. c. + 24 | | | o. b. c. o. + 25 | | | c. o. + 26 | | | s. s. s. + 27 | | | s. drifting. + 28 | | | p. so. drifting. + 29 | | | b. c. + 30 | | | h. b. s. + + + + + FORT HOPE, REPULSE BAY. + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for October, 1846._ + + +------+--------------------------------+-------------------------------- + Day |Temperature of the Atmosphere | + of | taken eight times in | Prevailing Winds. + the | twenty-four hours. | +Month.| | + +----------+----------+----------+------------------------+------- + |_Highest._|_Lowest._ | _Mean._ | _Direction._ |_Force_ +------+----------+----------+----------+------------------------+------- + | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | | + 1 | +27 | +25 | +26 | Vble. S.W.--N.W. | 1-5 + 2 | +25 | +16 | +21 | N.W. | 8 + 3 | +24 | +10 | +18 | Vble. E. by S. | 1-5 + 4 | +38 | +38 | +38 | S.E. by E. | 4 + 5 | +37 | +30 | +33 | E. | 2-4 + 6 | +33 | +28 | +30.3 | N.E. | 3-4 + 7 | +30 | +28 | +29 | N.E. | 4-3 + 8 | +28 | +25 | +26.3 | N.--N.N.W. | 4-5 + 9 | +22 | +21 | +21.5 | N.W.--O.--Vble. | 3-0-2 + 10 | +27 | +26 | +26.5 | E. | 8-9 + 11 | +32 | +28 | +30 | N.E.--O. | 1-0 + 12 | +27 | +25 | +25 | N. by W. | 7-9 + 13 | +29 | +27 | +28.1 | N. by W. | 8-9 + 14 | +26 | +18 | +23.2 | N. | 10-11 + 15 | +12 | +10 | +11 | N. by W. | 10-11 + 16 | + 5 | 0 | + 2.6 | N.N.W. | 7-4 + 17 | + 3.5 | - 1 | + 0.8 | N.N.W. | 7-8 + 18 | + 6 | - 0.8 | + 1.7 | S.W.W.--W.N.W. | 4-6 + 19 | + 2 | - 4.8 | - 0.7 | N.--N.N.W. | 5-9 + 20 | + 3 | - 2.5 | - 0.3 | N.W. | 10-11 + 21 | - 2.8 | -10 | - 6 | N.W.--N.W. by N. | 7-11 + 22 | - 4.5 | -15 | - 8.1 | N.W. Vble. S.W. | 0-2 + 23 | + 5.3 | - 0.5 | + 3 | N.W. by W.--N.W. by N. | 3-5 + 24 | - 0. | - 6.4 | - 4.2 | N.W. by W.--N.W. | 4-5 + 25 | + 4.5 | - 6.2 | - 1.8 | N.W. by N. | 5 + 26 | - 7.3 | -10.2 | - 8.5 | N.W.--N.W. by N. | 4-6 + 27 | - 6. | -15 | -10.6 | N.W. by N.--N.W. | 0-3-5 + 28 | - 1.8 | -11.8 | - 6.4 | N.W. & N.N.W. | 0-4 + 29 | +10 | + 3.1 | + 8.4 | S.S.E. S.--calm. | 0-2-4 + 30 | +25.3 | +21 | +23.4 | S.S.E.--S.W.--W. by N. | 2-8 + 31 | +10 | 0 | + 5.2 | S. N.W. W.S.W. N.N.W. | 1-4 + | ------ | + | 389.4 | + | ------ | + | +12.56 | + + +----+--------------------+---------------------------------------------- +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. + +---------+----------+ + |_Barom._ |_Thermo._ | +----|---------+----------+---------------------------------------------- + 1 | | | s. ps. + 2 | | | b. c. drifting. + 3 | | | h. p. s. o. s. + 4 | | | h. p. r. + 5 | | | h. wet. + 6 | | | h. p. s. o. p. s. + 7 | | | h. p. s. + 8 | | | c. o. o. + 9 | | | h. c. c. + 10 | | | s. drifting. + 11 | | | s. s. s. + 12 | | | s. with much drift. + 13 | 29.338 | +49 | s. and much drift. + 14 | 29.431 | +46.3 | s. and drift. + 15 | 29.690 | +44 | s. much drift. + 16 | 29.605 | +30.5 | b. c.; drift; haze and some drift--parhelia; + | | | haze with scaly snow; faint aurora to the + | | | S. and S. by E. alt. 12 deg. + 17 | 29.719 | +32.8 | b. c., much drift; aurora to the S.S.E. + | | | parallel to the horizon; alt. 12 deg. + 18 | 29.641 | +31.5 | b. c., drift; cirrus; some faint streaks of + | | | aurora to the W. + 19 | 29.662 | +29 | b. c., drifting; solar halo with prismatic + | | | colours and parhelia; snow and much drift. + 20 | 29.842 | +29.5 | s. much drift. + 21 | 29.959 | +30.5 | b. c., much drift; at 8 p.m. several streaks + | | | of faint aurora extending across the zenith + | | | in a N.W. and S.E. direction; many rays in + | | | different parts of the heavens. + 22 | 29.828 | +28.5 | + 23 | 29.919 | +32 | f. o. f. o. s. o. s. b. c. f. s. + 24 | 29.974 | +31 | b. c. o. drifting. + 25 | 30.023 | +29 | o. drifting. + 26 | 30.062 | +29.3 | o. m. b. c. drifting. + 27 | 30.47 | +26.5 | b. c. m., some faint streaks of aurora in + | | | various parts of the sky bearing for the + | | | most part N.N.W. and S.S.E. + 28 | 30.505 | +26. | b. c., a few clouds near horizon; a very + | | | faint light yellow cloud aurora to the S.E. + | | | and N.W. + 29 | 30.119 | +30.3 | c. s. b. c. s. o. m. b. c., cirrus extending + | | | from S.S.E. to N.N.W., resembling much the + | | | aurora. Lunar halo. + 30 | 29.078 | +39.7 | o. m. o. s. b. c. o. drifting. + 31 | 30.094 | +34.3 | b. b. c. c., solar halo; cirrus; 120 lunar + | | | distances were observed from Jupiter and + | | | at Aquilae, E. and W. of the moon. + | | | Lunar halo diam. 40 deg. or 50 deg. + + + + + FORT HOPE, REPULSE BAY. + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for November, 1846._ + + +-----+------------------------------+----------------------------------- + Day |Temperature of the Atmosphere | + of | taken eight times in | + the | twenty-four hours. | Prevailing Winds. +Month| | + +----------+---------+---------+--------------------------+-------- + |_Highest._|_Lowest._| _Mean._ | _Direction._ |_Force._ +-----+----------+---------+---------+--------------------------+-------- + | _deg.m._ |_deg.m._ |_deg.m._ | | + 1 | +18 | - 3.0 | + 8.5 | W.N.W. N.E. E. | 2-7 + 2 | +26.5 | +22.3 | +24.4 | S.E. S.E. by E. E. by W. | 2-5 + 3 | +27 | +25.5 | +26.3 | S.E. E.S.E. | 2-5 + 4 | +26 | +21.5 | +23.8 | S.E.S. S.S.E. | 3-5 + 5 | +22 | + 0 | +13.2 | N. by W. N.W. by W. | 2-7 + 6 | - .5 | - 9.5 | - 3.5 | W.N.W. | 3-7 + 7 | + 11.5 | + 6 | + 9.7 | N. by E. | 4-7 + 8 | + 11 | + 5 | + 8.5 | N. | 4-7 + 9 | +12.5 | + 9.5 | + 10.9 | E.N.E. N.E. | 3-10 + 10 | +28.2 | +22.5 | +25.6 | E.S.E. S. S.S.W. | 3-8 + 11 | +17 | + 2.5 | + 7.5 | N.W. N.N.W. W. by N. | 5-8 + 12 | + 2.3 | - 8.5 | - 1 | N.N.E. W. N.N.W. | 2-5 + 13 | - 6 | - 8 | - 6.8 | N. by W. N.N.W. | 4-8 + 14 | - 4.6 | - 8.7 | - 6.6 | N.N.W. N. N. by W. | 3-7 + 15 | + 4.5 | -10.5 | - 3.8 | Calm. Vble. E. | 0-4 + 16 | +17.3 | +15 | +16.3 | E. N.E. N. | 1-6 + 17 | + 7.5 | - 8 | + .25 | N. by W. | 4-6 + 18 | - 4 | - 9.2 | - 7.1 | N.W. by N. Calm S.W. | 0-2 + 19 | +21.7 | +18 | +20.61 | S.S.E. S.E. E. | 4-7 + 20 | +12 | - 8.8 | + 2.9 | Calm. S. by E. N. | 0-2 + 21 | + 4.5 | - 4.2 | - 0.9 | S. S.E. E. | 4-1 + 22 | - 3 | - 4.2 | - 3.6 | S. by E. W. N.W. | 2-6 + 23 | -18.5 | -22.5 | -19.77 | N. by W. N.N.W. | 3-5 + 24 | -20.5 | -25.2 | -22.54 | N.N.W. | 5-1 + 25 | -14.5 | -24.5 | -20.06 | N. by E. N.W. N.W. by W. | 1-3 + 26 | -17.5 | -23.5 | -20.7 | N. | 6-9 + 27 | -11.8 | -15.5 | -13.6 | N. by W. | 9-10 + 28 | - 5.4 | - 8.5 | - 6.6 | N. by W. | 7-9 + 29 | -16.5 | -25.3 | -20.3 | N.N.W. W.N.W. | 6-3 + 30 | -17.5 | -24.4 | -21. | W. W.N.W. N.W. | 6-3 + | ------- | + | +20.59 | + | ------- | + | + 0.68 | + + +----+------------------+------------------------------------------------ +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. + +--------+---------+ + |_Barom._|_Thermo._| +----+--------+---------+------------------------------------------------ + 1 | 30.011 | +35 |b. c. o. s. and drift. + 2 | 29.715 | +38 |o. m. s. o. m. o. s. + 3 | 29.623 | +38.7 |o. m. s. o. s. + 4 | 29.624 | +39.5 |o. m. b. c. o. m. + 5 | 29.796 | +41 |o. m s. b. c. b. drifting. A faint ray of + | | | aurora to the S. E. extending vertically + | | | towards the zenith. + 6 | 30.009 | +38.8 |b. c. drifting. Some faint beams of aurora + | | | extending from S.W. to N.W., alt. 60 deg.; one + | | | ray to the S.E. pointing towards the zenith. + 7 | 29.894 | +37.3 |o. c. o. drifting. + 8 | 30.1 | +39.5 |o. drifting. + 9 | 39.996 | +35.2 |o. s. drifting thick. + 10 | 29.598 | +40.2 |o s. o. b. c. o. much drift. + 11 | 29.728 | +38 |o. s. o. m. b. c. drifting. + 12 | 30.163 | +38.1 |b. c. m. b. drifting. + 13 | 30.214 | +34.9 |b. m. b c. m. much drift. + 14 | 30.39 | +36.2 |b. m. much drift. Solar halo and parhelia with + | | | prismatic colours; hazy near horizon; a faint + | | | beam of aurora to the westward directed toward + | | | the zenith; drifting. + 15 | 30.239 | +37 |o.m. o. s. + 16 | 29.963 | +38 |o.s. b. c. m. drifting. + 17 | 30.102 | +37 |o.s. b. c. m. drifting. Three beams of aurora + | | | pointing towards the zenith; two of them + | | | bearing N.N.W., and the other S.E. + 18 | 30.006 | +33.7 |b. c. fo. o. m. At 9 A.M. there was a very red + | | | sky to the N. westward; sound heard at a + | | | great distance. + 19 | 29.573 | +36.7 |o. s. b. c. drifting. + 20 | 29.420 | +36.8 |o. s. m. o. s. f. b. c. m. At 7 h. 30 m. a + | | | faint aurora extending from W. to S.E., alt. + | | | 20 deg.; motion rapid; no prismatic colours. + 21 | 29.409 | +37 |o. s. b. c. s. o. f. s. b. m. s. + 22 | 29.615 | +39 |b. c. Some faint streaks of aurora, most of them + | | | to the S. eastward, and pointed towards the + | | | horizon. + 23 | 29.918 | +33.7 |b. m. b. c. Some faint rays of aurora visible + | | | this morning at 5 h. 30 m. in different parts + | | | of the heavens; drifting. + 24 | 30.408 | +33.7 |b. c. drifting. + 25 | 30.573 | +30.8 |b. b. m. Two faint beams of aurora bearing + | | | W.N.W. and pointing towards the zenith; + | | | altitude of lower limb 30 deg. + 26 | 30.606 | +32 |b. m. b. much drift. + 27 | 29.555 | +31 |b. m. o. s. drifting. Door drifted up. + 28 | 29.41 | +26.6 |o. m. b. c. s. o. s. drifting. + 29 | 29.894 | +27.5 |b. c. drifting. + 30 | 30.354 | +26 |b. c. m. drifting. + + + + + FORT HOPE, REPULSE BAY. + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for December, 1846._ + + +-----+-------------------------------+---------------------------------- +Day | Temperature of the Atmosphere | +of | taken eight times in | Prevailing Winds. +the | twenty-four hours. | +Month+----------+----------+---------+------------------------+--------- + |_Highest._|_Lowest._ | _Mean._ | Direction. | Force. +-----+----------+----------+---------+------------------------+--------- + | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._| | + 1 | -24 | -27 | -25.875 | Calm. N.E. N. | 0-3 + 2 | -26.7 | -30 | -28.1 | N.E. Calm. N. | 1-0 + 3 | -24.8 | -28.5 | -26.4 | N. by W. | 1-4 + 4 | -24.8 | -28 | -29.97 | N.W. by W. S.S.W. | 4-0 + 5 | -17.3 | -21 | -19.7 | Calm. S. by E. S.S.E. | 0-2 + 6 | - 6.5 | -11 | - 9.14 | E. by S. N.E. N. | 5-2 + 7 | -16.5 | -24 | -19.7 | N. | 5-7 + 8 | -19.5 | -25.6 | -22.61 | N. | 9-8 + 9 | +14 | -15 | + .03 | N.N.W. N.N.E. N.E. | 11-5 + 10 | +17 | +14.8 | +15.74 | N.E. by N. N.E. E. | 4-6 + 11 | +12.7 | + 9.8 | +11.6 | N. by E. N.N.W. N.W. | 4-1 + 12 | + 4 | - 6 | + .74 | S. S.S.E. Calm. | 0-3 + 13 | -13 | -17 | -14.93 | N. N. by W. | 4-1 + 14 | -19 | -23 | -20.94 | Calm. Vble. | 0-2 + 15 | - 9 | -19 | -16.55 | N.N.W. N. by W. | 1-4 + 16 | 0 | - 3 | - 1.64 | N. E.N.E. Calm. Vble. | 0-1 + 17 | - 5 | - 9.6 | - 6.05 | Vble. W.N.W. | 1-2 + 18 | - 6 | - 8.5 | - 7.04 | N. by W. W. Vble. | 2-1 + 19 | -14.2 | -20 | -17.4 | N. by W. N.N.W. | 5-4 + 20 | - 8.7 | -13 | -10.56 | S. by W. N. by W.N. | 1-4 + 21 | -20.7 | -32.3 | -24.83 | N.W. Vble. N. | 1-2 + 22 | -30.5 | -36.5 | -33.4 | W. Calm. N. by E. | 0-2 + 23 | -21.4 | -26 | -23.3 | N.N.E. N.E.N. | 0-1 + 24 | -31 | -35.3 | -33.13 | N. | 7-10 + 25 | -36 | -38 | -36.83 | N. by W. | 10-8 + 26 | -34 | -38 | -36.46 | N. by W. N. | 8-11 + 27 | -30 | -30 | -30 | N. | 10-11 + 28 | -30.8 | -34.8 | -33.01 | N. N. by W. | 6-4 + 29 | -24.5 | -40 | -35 | N.W. by W. Vble. N.N.W.| 0-5 + 30 | -25 | -32.3 | -29.63 | N. | 6-9 + 31 | -23 | -32.5 | -29.25 | N. by W. Vble. N. | 1-7 + | | | ------- | | + | | | 597.43 | | + | | | ------- | | + | | | - 19.27 | | + + +----+------------------+------------------------------------------------ +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. + +--------+---------+ + |_Barom._|_Thermo._| +----+--------+---------+------------------------------------------------ + 1 | 30.452 | +18.75 |b. c. + 2 | 30.237 | +19.6 |b. c. b. c. m. Lunar halo. + 3 | 30.886 | +16.3 |b. c. b. c. m. + 4 | 30.013 | +17 |b. c. m. + 5 | 29.778 | +17.6 |b. c. m. parhelia with prismatic colours; + | | | aurora visible to the south in two arches + | | | arising from near the horizon to the zenith. + 6 | 29.480 | +27.5 |o. s. b. c. + 7 | 29.764 | +26 |b. m. c. drifting. + 8 | 30.039 | +23 |b. c. drift. + 9 | 29.974 | +22 |s. o. drifting. + 10 | 29.892 | +28.3 |s. o. b. c. o. s. drifting. + 11 | 29.759 | +32 |o. s. m. + 12 | 30.016 | +26.6 |o. m. s.b.m. + 13 | 30.36 | +31 |b. m. b. c. The sky to the north had a + | | | beautiful lake coloured tint at sunset; the + | | | most brilliant display of aurora I have + | | | observed this winter, the centre being towards + | | | the true south, and gradually rising from an + | | | altitude of 12 deg. to 70 deg. or 80 deg. It + | | | was of a pale yellowish green colour. + | | | Horizontal needle not affected. + 14 | 30.473 | +26 |b. c. m. Some faint beams of aurora in + | | | different parts of the heavens. A very faint + | | | aurora to the southward. + 15 | 30.37 | +27 |b. m. b. c.o. A very faint aurora; centre true + | | | south. + 16 | 30.186 | +30.7 |o. m. + 17 | 30.205 | +27.6 |o. m. b. m. Wind variable from N. to E.; + | | | faint aurora to the S.; alt. 10 deg.; centre + | | | S.S.W. 30 deg. + 18 | 30.274 | +29.3 |o. b. c. m. Aurora faint to the S. by W. + 19 | 30.245 | +27.3 |b. c. m. drifting. + 20 | 30.259 | +28 |b. c. o. s. + 21 | 30.268 | +29 |b. m. Arch of aurora across zenith nearly east + | | | and west; brightest at western extremity. + 22 | 30.264 | +22.3 |b. c. b. m. + 23 | 30.168 | +25.3 |b. m. b. c. b. m. s. Spiculae of snow falling. + | | | Lunar halo faint. + 24 | 30.065 | +23.6 |b. m. much drift. + 25 | 29.996 | +22 |b. m. much drift. + 26 | 29.83 | +20 |b. c. m. much drift. + 27 | 29.523 | +15.5 |b. c. m. much drift. + 28 | 29.536 | +14.3 |b. m. b. drifting. + 29 | 29.603 | +14.3 |b. b. c. A faint halo, centre S., alt. about + | | | 20 deg.; wind variable from N. to W. by S.; + | | | cirrus clouds; halo round moon. + 30 | 29.577 |+11.6 |b. c. drifting; much drift. + 31 | 29.564 |+15.3 |b. c. + + + + + FORT HOPE, REPULSE BAY. + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for January, 1847._ + + +------+------------------------------+---------------------------------- +Day |Temperature of the Atmosphere | +of | taken eight times in | Prevailing Winds. +the | twenty-four hours. | +Month.+----------+---------+---------+---------------------------+------ + |_Highest._|_Lowest._| _Mean._ | Direction. |Force. +------+----------+---------+---------+---------------------------+------ + | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._|_deg.m._ | | + 1 | -23.5 | -32 | -26.96 |N.N.W. N.W. by W. N. by W. | 1-6 + 2 | -29.5 | -33.5 | -31.8 |N.N.W. N. by W. N.W. | 2-5 + 3 | -30.3 | -32 | -31.4 |N. by W. Calm. N.N.E. | 0-1 + 4 | -31 | -34 | -32.82 |N. Calm. N. | 0-2 + 5 | -27.5 | -30 | -28.61 |N. 1/2 W. | 5-8 + 6 | -26.5 | -31 | -28.3 |N.N.W. | 6-8 + 7 | -40 | -42 | -40.9 |N.W. Calm. W. N.W.N. | 0-1 + 8 | -44 | -47 | -46.7 |N.W. N.N.W. N. by W. | 1-7 + 9 | -38 | -40 | -39 |N. | 10-11 + 10 | -12 | -17 | -14.5 |N.N.W. | 10-12 + 11 | -10 | -10 | -10 |N. by W. | 7-11 + 12 | -12 | -16 | -14 |N. by W. | 7-8 + 13 | -28.5 | -33.5 | -30.8 |N.N.W. N. by W. | 6-7 + 14 | -33.8 | -36.3 | -35.1 |N. by W. N. 1/2 W. N. by W.| 7-5 + 15 | -38 | -39.5 | -38.7 |N. by W. N.W. N.N.W. | 2-5 + 16 | -39.3 | -41 | -37.07 |N. by W. N.N.W. N. by W. | 2-6 + 17 | -38 | -41 | -39.6 |N. by W. | 7-8 + 18 | -37 | -40 | -38.95 |N.W. by N. N. by W. | 2-4 + 19 | -25 | -31 | -30.6 |N.N.W. N.N.W. | 9-11 + 20 | -14 | -20 | -17 |N.N.W. | 8-10 + 21 | -20.5 | -26.5 | -23.4 |N. by W. N.N.E. N. | 2-9 + 22 | -14 | -26 | -18.87 |N.W. N.N.W. | 6-11 + 23 | -10 | -13 | -11.2 |N.N.W. | 9-11 + 24 | -13 | -13 | -13 |N.N.W. | 9-11 + 25 | -26.5 | -32.5 | -29.25 |N.N.W. | 4-7 + 26 | -31.5 | -37 | -34.47 |N. Calm. Vble. N. | 0-1 + 27 | -29 | -35 | -32.05 |N. N. by W. | 1-2 + 28 | -33.3 | -35.5 | -34.65 |N. by W. | 6-7 + 29 | -36 | -42.7 | -39.25 |N. by W. W.N.W. N.W. | 4-1 + 30 | -24.7 | -36.5 | -28.64 |S. by W. Vble. E. | 1-5 + 31 | -27.5 | -35 | -31.5 |N. by W. | 4-7 + | | |-------- | | + | | | 909 | | + | | |-------- | | + | | | -29.32 | | + + + +----+------------------+----------------------------------------------- +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. + +--------+---------+ + |_Barom._|_Thermo._| +----+--------+---------+----------------------------------------------- + 1 | 29.908 | +17 | b. c. b. c. s. drifting. + 2 | 30.128 | +16 | b. m. b. Faint aurora, centre S.W. by S., + | | | alt. 15 deg.; drifting; some streaks of + | | | aurora to the southward pointing to the + | | | zenith. + 3 | 30.134 | +18.5 | b. c. b. Much refraction; thermometer in house + | | | +11 deg.; a beam of aurora to the south + | | | pointing to the zenith. + 4 | 30.023 | +15.6 | b. b. Hills much refracted; aurora faint; + | | | centre of arch S. by W.; alt. 10 deg.; aurora + | | | in a narrow line parallel to horizon, alt. 4 + | | | deg., extent 70 deg., centre south. + 5 | 29.93 | +14.6 | b. c. m. drifting. + 6 | 30.04 | +14.6 | b. m. drifting. A faint aurora extending from + | | | S.S.E. across the zenith. + 7 | 29.861 | +12.6 | b. c. m. Mercury froze after two hours' + | | | exposure. + 8 | 29.8 | +11 | b. b. drifting. + 9 | 29.974 | | Much drift; could not get out to see + | | | thermometer, door being drifted up. + 10 | 29.139 | + 6 | o. o. Much drift; obliged to take the + | | | thermometers into the house, as the pillars + | | | of snow on which the posts were placed were + | | | nearly all blown away. + 11 | 29.193 | +10.5 | o. b. m. Much drift; a beam of aurora S.E.; + | | | alt. 25 deg. + 12 | 29.309 | +14.5 | b. m. Much drift; very faint aurora; centre + | | | W. by N.; alt. 10 deg. + 13 | 29.549 | +12.3 | b. m. drifting; a very faint aurora, centre + | | | S.S.W., alt. 16 deg.; extent 60 deg. or 70 + | | | deg. + 14 | 29.588 | +13 | b. c. m. drift; arch of aurora faint, + | | | alt. 11 deg., centre S.S.W., extent 90 deg. + 15 | 29.608 | + 7.6 | b. m. c. Streams of bright light shooting from + | | | the sun to the alt. of 5 deg. + 16 | 29.67 | + 7 | b. c. b. drifting, stratus; arch of aurora + | | | faint, centre south, alt. 18 deg., extent 60 + | | | deg. Centre S.S.W., alt. 12 deg., extent 90 + | | | deg. + 17 | 29.887 | +13 | b. m. drifting. Aurora visible, faint but + | | | brightest to the westward; centre S., + | | | alt. 60 deg. + 18 | 29.245 | + 6 | b. c. b. c. m. A very faint arch of aurora + | | | from the N.W. by N. extending across zenith. + 19 | 29.662 | + 7 | m. o. much drift; door drifted up. + 20 | 29.472 | +11 | o. q. much drift. + 21 | 29.60 | + 9.5 | b. m. much drift. + 22 | 29.445 | + 8 | b. m. o. s. o. m. q. s. o. q. drifting. + 23 | 29.273 | + 9.5 | o. m. much drift. + 24 | 29.366 | +10 | o. q. gale all night; much drift. + 25 | 29.83 | + 8 | b. m. drifting; solar halo with parhelia. + 26 | 30.035 | + 6.3 | b. A faint arch of aurora across zenith S.W. + | | | and N.E. + 27 | 29.911 | + 4.6 | b. c. b. c. s. o. m. o. s. + 28 | 29.908 | + 7.3 | b. m. drifting. Very cold to the sensation' + | | | spiculae of snow falling; a broad band of + | | | aurora, the lower edge having a reddish or + | | | lake tint, running parallel to the horizon; + | | | alt. 2 deg., centre S.W., extent 70 deg.; + | | | some beams of aurora S.E. pointing towards + | | | the zenith. + 29 | 29.954 | + 7.3 | b. m. + 30 | 29.737 | + 5.6 | o. b. c. m. s. b. c. s. + 31 | 29.714 | + 8 | b. c. m. Cirrus; drifting. + + + + + FORT HOPE, REPULSE BAY. + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for February, 1847._ + + +------+-------------------------------+--------------------------------- +Day | Temperature of the Atmosphere | +of | taken eight times | Prevailing Winds. +the | in twenty-four hours. | +Month.+----------+----------+---------+------------------------+-------- + |_Highest._| _Lowest._| _Mean._ | _Direction._ |_Force._ +------+----------+----------+---------+--------------------------------- + | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._| | + 1 | -29.8 | -38.5 | -33.6 | N.N.W. N.W. W. | 6-1 + 2 | -30.8 | -37.3 | -33.73 | N.W. Vble. W. Calm. N. | 0-1 + 3 | -29 | -35 | -31.53 | S.W. Calm. Vble. | 0-1 + 4 | -19 | -26.5 | -22.67 | Calm. Vble. Calm. | 0-1 + 5 | -14 | -20 | -16.71 | N.W. by S. | 4-6 + 6 | -14.7 | -22.5 | -17.5 | N. | 3-6 + 7 | -22.5 | -27 | -25.16 | Calm. N. by W. Calm. | 0-1 + 8 | -22.3 | -30.5 | -26.25 | N. by W. N.N.W. | 1-4 + 9 | -20 | -25.5 | -21.65 | N.W. N.W. by W. | 1-6 + 10 | -20 | -27 | -23.35 | N. Vbl. N. by W. | 0-2 + 11 | - 8.7 | -18.3 | -11.64 | W.N.W. N. by W. | 1-6 + 12 | -18 | -23.5 | -20.25 | N. by W. | 8-6 + 13 | -35.3 | -38 | -36.83 | N.N.W. N. by W. | 7-2 + 14 | -26 | -36.5 | -31 | N.W. | 6-3 + 15 | -37.5 | -42 | -39.83 | N. | 4-7 + 16 | -36.5 | -42 | -39.14 | N. by W. | 7-5 + 17 | -35.5 | -40.5 | -38.4 | N. N. by W. N.W. | 7-3 + 18 | -27.5 | -34.5 | -30.57 | N. N. by W. N.N.W. | 1-7 + 19 | -22 | -32.5 | -27.57 | N. Vble. S.S.E. | 4-1 + 20 | -22.5 | -27.5 | -25.3 | N. by W. N. N.N.W. | 7-4 + 21 | -19.5 | -27 | -22.83 | N.N.W. N. S.E. | 3-1 + 22 | -13 | -26.5 | -18.85 | N.N.W. | 1-5 + 23 | -23.5 | -31.5 | -26.57 | N.N.W. N. | 3-1 + 24 | -23 | -34.5 | -27.43 | W. W. by N. N. N.W. | 1-4 + 25 | - 9.5 | -27.5 | -20.2 | W. Calm. Vble. | 1-0 + 26 | - 9.3 | -22 | -13.5 | S.E. E. by N. N. | 1-2 + 27 | -24 | -27.5 | -25.54 | N.W. by N. N.N.W. | 4-6 + 28 | -34.5 | -40 | -39.2 | N.N.W. N.W. by W. | 6-3 + | | | ------ | | + | | | 746.85 | | + | | | ------ | | + | | | -26.68 | | + + ++------------------+---------------------------------------------------- +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. + +--------+---------+ + |_Barom._|_Thermo._| +----+--------+---------+------------------------------------------------ + 1 | 29.901 | + 7.6 | b. m. b.q. drifting. + 2 | 30.023 | + 5.3 | b. b. + 3 | 30.593 | + 2.6 | b. c. o. cirrus and cirro-stratus. + 4 | 30.219 | + 5 | b. c. + 5 | 30.339 | + 5.6 | b. c. q. much refraction; drifting. + 6 | 30.18 | +11. | b. c. m. b. c. drifting. + 7 | 30.??4 | +12. | b. c. cirrus; cloudy near horizon. + 8 | 30.418 | +10.3 | b. m. spiculae. much refraction. + 9 | 30.432 | +12. | o. m. b. c. m. drifting; solar halo with + | | | parhelia; a faint arch of aurora. + 10 | 30.065 | + 8.3 | b. c. cirrus; some faint beams of aurora south + | | | and south-south-west (say south-west). + 11 | 29.865 | +12.6 | b. c. m. o. s. b. c. s. drifting. + 12 | 29.71 | +12. | b. m much drift. + 13 | 29.644 | +10.5 | b. m. b. drifting. + 14 | 29.65 | +10. | b. m. b. + 15 | 29.816 | +12.6 | b. b. m. b. drifting. + 16 | 29.899 | +13.3 | b. m. b. much drift. + 17 | 29.84 | + 7.6 | b. m. b. drifting. + 18 | 29.869 | + 7.3 | b. c. o. b. c. m. much drift. + 19 | 29.9 | + 6.7 | b. c. s. o. m. Solar halo with prismatic + | | | colours and parhelia. + 20 | 29.9 | + 8 | b. m. b. drifting. + 21 | 30.329 | + 7 | b. c. b. c. m. + 22 | 30.276 | + 9.6 | b. m. b. c. s. o. s. b. c. s. drifting. + 23 | 30.459 | + 9.3 | b. m. b. c. cirrus; Venus visible for the + | | | first time, the horizon having been too hazy + | | | to see her sooner. + 24 | 30.326 | + 7 | b. + 25 | 30.008 | + 6 | b. b. c. much refraction. + 26 | 30.221 | + 8.3 | b. m. c. b. c. s. + 27 | 30.146 | +12 | b. m. c. b. c. s. b. c. m. drifting along + | | | the ground. + 28 | 30.073 | +11 | b. m. drifting. + + + + + Fort Hope, Repulse Bay, + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for March, 1847._ + + +------+-------------------------------+--------------------------------- +Day | Temperature of the Atmosphere | +of | taken eight times | Prevailing Winds. +the | in twenty-four hours. | +Month.+----------+----------+---------+--------------------------+------ + |_Highest._| _Lowest._| _Mean._ | _Direction._ |Force. +------+----------+----------+---------+--------------------------+------ + | _deg. m._| _deg. m._|_deg. m._| | + 1 | -30.5 | -45 | -37.5 | N. by W. Chble. N.W. | 0-2 + | | | | by N. | + 2 | -30.5 | -40.5 | -35.4 | N.W. by N. N.N.W. | 2-4 + 3 | -30 | -37 | -33.7 | N.W. by N. N.N.W. | 4-7 + 4 | -27 | -38 | -32 | N. by W. N.W. by N. | 4-7 + 5 | -26 | -33 | -28.4 | N. by W. N.W. by N. | 8-6 + 6 | -27 | -33 | -29.4 | N. by W. | 8-4 + 7 | -27.5 | -37 | -33 | N.N. 1/2 E. | 7-5 + 8 | -25 | -31.5 | -27.5 | N. N. by W. N.N.W. | 7-9 + 9 | -20 | -30.5 | -25.3 | N.N.W. N.W. by N. | 4-2 + 10 | -21 | -33.5 | -27.2 | N.W. N.N.W. | 1-4 + 11 | -10.7 | -27.5 | -20 | N.W. by N. N. by W. | 1-3 + 12 | -19.5 | -30.5 | -23.7 | N.N.W. N. N. by W. | 8-10 + 13 | -15 | -19.5 | -16.5 | N.N.W. | 10-12 + 14 | -13.5 | -15 | -14.5 | N. by W. | 11-7 + 15 | -11 | -19 | -14.2 | N. N.N.W. | 8-5 + 16 | -7.7 | -19 | -11.7 | N.W. by N. N. by W. | 3-6 + 17 | -24 | -30 | -26.5 | N. W.N.W. W. | 1-6 + 18 | -18.7 | -37.5 | -29.1 | Calm. S.S.E. W. | 0-6 + 19 | -14 | -29.5 | -21.4 | W. Vble. | 2-1 + 20 | -23.5 | -32.5 | -29.1 | N.N.W. N. N. by W. | 6-4 + 21 | -23 | -29.5 | -25.9 | W.N.W. | 10-7 + 22 | -16 | -27 | -21.6 | N W. by N. W. | 6-1 + 23 | -16 | -33 | -22.6 | N.W. Chble. N. by W. | 1-6 + 24 | -29 | -33.5 | -30.9 | N. by W. N.N.W. | 9-7 + 25 | -27 | -35 | -30.4 | N. by W. N.N.W. | 7-9 + 26 | -26.5 | -35.5 | -30.6 | N. by W. | 6-8 + 27 | -24.5 | -34 | -28.1 | N. by W. N.N.W. | 6-8 + 28 | -26 | -35 | -30.2 | N. by W. | 2-7 + 29 | -22 | -33 | -26.37 | N.N.W. N. W.N.W. | 8-5 + 30 | -15 | -32 | -20.54 | N.W. N. by W. | 2-6 + 31 | -6 | -14 | -8.6 | N.N.W. N.W. by N. | 7-6 + | | | ------ | + | | | 811.91 | + | | | ------ | + | | | -28.1 | + + +----+----------------------+-------------------------------------------- +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. + +----------------------+ + | _Barom._ | _Thermo._ | +----+----------+-----------+-------------------------------------------- + 1 | 30.152 | + 4.3 | b. b. + 2 | 30.296 | + 4 | b. + 3 | 30.268 | + 4.6 | b. m. drifting. The wind between noon and + | | | 2 P.M. went round for a few minutes, and + | | | then went back to its old direction. + 4 | 30.399 | + 6.3 | b. m. drifting. + 5 | 30.492 | + 7 | b. m. b. c. m. much drift. + 6 | 30.63 | +11.3 | b. c. m. drifting. + 7 | 30.514 | +10.5 | b. m. drifting. + 8 | 30.232 | + 7.6 | b. c. m. much drift. + 9 | 30.194 | + 8 | b. b. c. + 10 | 30.179 | + 4 | b. b. c. cirrus. + 11 | 30.305 | + 4.7 | b. + 12 | 30.449 | + 9.7 | b. m. much drift. + 13 | 30.089 | + 7 | b. q. thick drift. + 14 | 30.07 | + 5 | b. m. q. b. c. m. much drift. + 15 | 30.886 | +13 | b. c. m. q. b. c. m. o. m. drifting. + 16 | 29.578 | +12 | o. s. b. c. s. b. c. drifting. + 17 | 29.814 | + 6.6 | b. c. b. q. drifting. + 18 | 29.99 | + 4.6 | b. c. m. Solar halo with prismatic + | | | colours; drifting. + 19 | 30.001 | + 5.6 | b. m. b. c. cirrus. + 20 | 29.569 | + 8 | b. m. b. c. m. + 21 | 29.372 | + 3 | o. s. o. m. b. m. drifting. + 22 | 29.673 | + 5 | b. c. m. q. cirrus. + 23 | 29.823 | + 6.7 | b. c. m. o. s. Spiculae; halo with + | | | prismatic colours; drifting. + 24 | 29.854 | + 3.7 | b. m. b. c. m. much drift; door + | | | drifted up. + 25 | 29.899 | + .7 | b. m. c. m. much drift; door drifted up. + 26 | 30.196 | + 1.3 | b. c. m. drifting. + 27 | 30.046 | - .3 | b. m. b. c. m. drifting. + 28 | 30.161 | + 1 | b. m. c. drifting. + 29 | 30.142 | + 2 | b. m. drifting. + 30 | 30.182 | + 3.5 | b. c. m. o. m. drifting. + 31 | 30.867 | +10.6 | b. c. m. b. c. s. o. s. drifting. + + + + + FORT HOPE, REPULSE BAY. + --_Abstract of Meterological Journal for April, 1847._ + + ------+---------------------------------+------------------------------ + Day | Temperature of the Atmosphere | + of | taken eight times in twenty-four| Prevailing Winds. + the | hours. | + Month.+-----------+----------+----------+------------------------------ + |_Highest._ |_Lowest._ | _Mean._ | _Direction._ | Force. + ------+-----------+----------+----------+----------------------+------- + | _deg. m._ |_deg. m._ |_deg. m._ | | + 1 | -6.5 | -18.3 | -11.57 | N.W. by W. W. by N.| 3-6 + 2 | -0.5 | -21 | -9.03 | W. N.N.W. N.W. | 2-4 + 3 | +8 | -23.5 | -6.7 | Vble. Calm. | 1-0 + | | | | | + 4 | 0 | -13 | -4.5 | N.W. by N. N. | 2-1 + 5 | | | -10 | N. by W. | 5 + 6 | +11 | -20 | -5.3 | S. | 4 + 7 | +18 | -9 | +3.67 | | + 8 | +20 | -2 | +8.3 | | + 9 | +2 | -12 | -5 | N.N.W | + 10 | +19 | -15 | +3.66 | E. | + 11 | +10 | -15 | -1.6 | E. | + 12 | +16 | -17 | -2 | S. | + 13 | +21 | -11 | +5.3 | N.N.W. | + 14 | +15 | 0 | +6.6 | W. | + 15 | -7 | -17 | -11.3 | N.N.W. | 9 + 16 | -10 | -19 | -15.3 | N. | 9 + 17 | -8 | -22 | -16.3 | N. | + 18 | -2 | -20 | -12 | N.W. | + 19 | -5 | -25 | -13.7 | N.N.W. | + 20 | -5 | -20 | -12.67 | N. | + 21 | 0 | -22 | -10.3 | N.N.W. | + 22 | -8 | -22 | -13.3 | N. by W. | + 23 | +17 | -12 | +1.67 | Vble. | 2 + 24 | -6 | -10 | -4.3 | N.W. | + 25 | +7 | -2 | +1 | N. | + 26 | +5 | -10 | -1.6 | N.N.W. | + 27 | +8 | -5 | +2 | N.N.W. | + 28 | +10 | -3 | +4 | N.N.W. | + 29 | +11 | -1 | +4 | N.N.W. | + 30 | +20 | -1 | +9.6 | N. | + | +----------+ | | + | | 122.57 | | | + | +----------+ | | + | | -3.95 | | | + + +----+------------------+------------------------------------------------ +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. + +--------+---------+ + |_Barom._|_Thermo._| +----+--------+---------+------------------------------------------------ + 1 | 29.83 | + 10 | b. c. m. drifting. + 2 | 29.709 | | b. b. c. + 3 | 29.708 | + 4 | b. b. c. Barometer not registered after this. + | | | Thermometer with colourless ??? rose to 5 + | | | deg. only, although freely exposed to the + | | | sun's rays. At 8 P.M. a faint aurora of an + | | | orange colour; centre south; alt. 5 deg. + 4 | | | o. m. b. c. s. o.s. + 5 | | | o. s. + 6 | | | + 7 | | | + 8 | | | + 9 | | | + 10 | | | + 11 | | | + 12 | | | + 13 | | | much drift all day. + 14 | | | much drift. + 15 | | | + 15 | | | much drift and snow. + 17 | | | + 18 | | | thick drift and snow. Some partridges seen. + 19 | | | + 20 | | | drifting. + 21 | | | + 22 | | | + 23 | | | drifting thick. + 24 | | | + 25 | | | + 26 | | | snow and drift. + 27 | | | drifting. + 28 | | | drifting. + 29 | | | drifting. + 30 | | | drifting. + + + + + FORT HOPE, REPULSE BAY. + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for May, 1847._ + + +------+-----------------------------------+----------------------------- +Day | Temperature of the Atmosphere | +of | taken three times in | Prevailing winds +the | twenty-four-hours. | +Month.| | + +------------+-----------+----------+----------------------+------ + | _Highest._ | _Lowest._ | _Mean._ | _Direction._ |Force. +------+------------+-----------+----------+----------------------+------ + | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | | + 1 | +20 | + 4 | +11.6 | W. | + 2 | +20 | + 5 | +12 | N. | + 3 | +17 | + 4 | + 9.3 | N. by W. | + 4 | +10 | + 0 | + 3.3 | N.N.W. | + 5 | +10 | - 4 | + 3.67 | N.N.W. | + 6 | +20 | 0 | + 9.3 | Vble. Calm. | 1-2 + 7 | +24 | - 1.5 | +10.5 | S.E. E. | 2 + 8 | +23 | + 6 | +14.8 | Vble. E. S.S.E. | 1-3 + 9 | +26 | +16 | +18.5 | S.E. E. | 2-6 + 10 | +19.5 | +12 | +15.67 | E. by S. E.N.E. | 6-10 + 11 | +32.3 | +18.5 | +24.6 | S. by E. S.W. W.N.W. | 1-6 + 12 | +25.5 | +10 | +15.93 | N.W. | 2-6 + 13 | +25 | + 4.5 | +11.5 | W. | 7-6 + 14 | +33 | +18 | +23.3 | S.W. | + 15 | +17 | +10 | +12.67 | N. | + 16 | +15 | + 9 | +11.3 | N.W. | + 17 | +20 | +15 | +17 | W.N.W. | + 18 | +30 | +15 | +21.67 | N.W. | + 19 | +40 | +18 | +27.6 | S. | + 20 | +37 | +21 | +27.3 | N. | + 21 | +28 | +18 | +21.3 | N. | 11 + 22 | +22 | +16 | +18.3 | N. | 10 + 23 | +25 | +16 | +21 | N. | 10 + 24 | +33 | +26 | +28.66 | N.E. | + 25 | +43 | +23 | +30.67 | N.E. by N. | + 26 | +34 | +24 | +27.67 | N.N.E. | + 27 | +28 | +21 | +24.66 | N. | + 28 | +25 | +16 | +20 | N.W. | + 29 | +45 | +18 | +28 | S. | + 30 | +43 | +24 | +30.67 | S.E. | + 31 | +23 | +18 | +21 | N. | + | | +----------+ | + | | | 553.44 | | + | | +----------+ | + | | | +17.88 | | + + +----+--------------------+---------------------------------------------- +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | + +---------+----------+ Remarks on the Weather, &c. + |_Barom._ |_Thermo._ | +----+---------+----------+---------------------------------------------- + 1 | | | Newman's improved Cistern Barometer used. + | | | { Correction for capacities -1/34 + 2 | | | { Neutral point -30.302 + | | | { Capillary action +.042 + | | | { Temperature +60 deg. + 3 | | | A snow bird was seen. + 4 | | | drifting. + 5 | | | drifting. + 6 | | | b. c. + 7 | | | o. s. b. c. s. + 8 | | | o. s. An inch of snow fallen. + 9 | | | o. s. o. o. + 10 | | | o. s. and drifting thick. + 11 | | | o. s. pools of water. Beautiful evening, + 12 | | | b. c. drifting. + 13 | | | b. c. o. m. + 14 | | | + 15 | | | fine weather. + 16 | | | thick weather. + 17 | | | + 18 | | | + 19 | | | + 20 | | | + 21 | | | Much snow drift. + 22 | | | Much snow and snow drift. + 23 | | | Much snow drift. + 24 | | | + 25 | | | + 26 | | | + 27 | | | Snow and drift until evening. + 28 | | | + 29 | | | + 30 | | | Cloudy with snow. + 31 | | | Strong gale with drift. + + + + + Fort Hope, Repulse Bay. + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for June, 1847._ + + +------+-----------------------------------+----------------------------- +Day | Temperature of the Atmosphere | +of | taken three times in | Prevailing winds +the | twenty-four-hours. | +Month.+------------+-----------+----------+---------------------+------- + | _Highest._ | _Lowest._ | _Mean._ | _Direction._ |Force. +------+------------+-----------+----------+---------------------+------- + | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | | + 1 | +25 | +12 | +19.3 | S. | + 2 | +35 | +17 | +25.3 | N. | + 3 | +26 | +14 | +20 | N. | + 4 | +32 | +14 | +21.7 | N.W. | + 5 | +29 | +18 | +22 | N.W. | + 6 | +43 | +21 | +28.3 | Vble. | + 7 | +28 | +18 | +22 | N. | + 8 | +30 | +16 | +22.7 | N. | + 9 | +38 | +24 | +30.6 | N.N.W. and Vble. | 3-5 + 10 | +39 | +26 | +31.3 | N. and N.N.E. | 1-3 + 11 | +34 | +28.5 | +30.8 | Vble. N. | 1-6 + 12 | +35 | +26.5 | +30.7 | N. by W. | 6-8 + 13 | +37 | +27 | +32.3 | N. | 5-7 + 14 | +40 | +29.5 | +34 | N. by E. | 2-4 + 15 | +43.5 | +26 | +35.5 | E. Vble. S.W. | 2-3 + 16 | +39.5 | +36 | +37.3 | N. N.W. | 4-2 + 17 | +37 | +30.5 | +34 | E. by S. S.E. | 3-1 + 18 | +38.5 | +32.5 | +34.67 | E. N.E. | 2-5 + 19 | +34.5 | +31 | +32.5 | N.N. by W. | 7-9 + 20 | +37 | +33.5 | +34.8 | W.N.W. | 10-11 + 21 | +45.5 | +33 | +37.66 | W. by N. S.E. | 9-6-5 + 22 | +40.5 | +32 | +35.1 | N. N.N.W. N.W. | 8-7 + 23 | +42 | +32.5 | +36.2 | W. N.W. | 6-4-2 + 24 | +46.5 | +33 | +38.73 | Calm. Vble. S.E. | 0-2 + 25 | +36.7 | +32.5 | +34.23 | E. by S. | 3-4 + 26 | +37 | +31.3 | +33.66 | E.S.E. E. by N. N.E.| 6-9 + 27 | +34.3 | +31 | +32.6 | N.W. W.N.W. | 10-11 + 28 | +34 | +31.5 | +32.83 | W. W. by N. W.N.W. | 9-8 + 29 | +37.3 | +33.7 | +35 | N.W. N.W. by W. | 10-8-0 + 30 | +41 | +32.3 | +35.6 | W.N.W. N.W. N. | 7-8 + | | +----------+ | + | | | 942.51 | | + | | +----------+ | + | | | +31.38 | | + + +----+------------------+----------------------------------------------- +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. + +--------+---------+ + |_Barom._|_Thermo._| +----+--------+---------+----------------------------------------------- + 1 | | | + 2 | | | + 3 | | | A strong gale. + 4 | | | + 5 | | | + 6 | | | + 7 | | | + 8 | | | + 9 | | | + 10 | | | b. c. m. Arrived at the house from our journey + | | | at 8h. 20m. A.M. by watch, or 7h. 20m. + | | | true time. + 11 | | | b. c. + 12 | | | o. s. + 13 | | | o. s. + 14 | | | o. p. s. + 15 | | | b. c. p. sleet. + 15 | | | b. c. + 17 | | | b. c. p. o. r. First rain this spring. + 18 | | | o. r. o. f. o. r. + 19 | | | s. o. r. o. + 20 | 29.480 | +37 | p. r. b. c. b. c. p. r. b. c. + 21 | 29.817 | +49 | b. c. q. o. r. + 22 | 30.289 | +40 | o. b. c. p. s. Showers of snow and sleet during + | | | the night. + 23 | 30.14 | +40.3 | o. b. c. Saw sun at midnight, lower limb + | | | touching the high ground. + 24 | 30.147 | +46.5 | b. c. + 25 | 30.04 | +40 | o. o. f. A few flakes of snow falling. + 26 | 29.68 | +38.7 | o. s. o. w. s. Half inch of snow during the + | | | night. Wet snow. + 27 | 29.273 | +37 | o. s. o. p. s. q. From 6 to 8 inches of snow + | | | during the night. + 28 | 29.39 | +35.6 | b. c. q. o. s. q. + 29 | 29.488 | +40 | o. p. s. q. b. c. q. b. c. p. s. + 30 | 29.61 | +38 | o. s. b. c. p. s. q. b. c. p. r. q. Wet snow. + + + + + Fort Hope, Repulse Bay. + --_Abstract of Meteorological Journal for July, 1847_ + + +------+-----------------------------------+----------------------------- +Day | Temperature of the Atmosphere | +of | taken three times in | Prevailing winds +the | twenty-four-hours. | +Month.+------------+-----------+----------+----------------------+------ + | _Highest._ | _Lowest._ | _Mean._ | _Direction._ |Force. +------+------------+-----------+----------+----------------------+------ + | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | | + 1 | +39 | +29.3 | +33.6 |N.N.W. N. by W. N. | 4-6 + 2 | +38 | +31.3 | +34.6 |N. N.W. by N. N.W. | 7-4 + 3 | +46.5 | +32 | +38.17 |W. Calm. | 7-6-0 + 4 | +35.5 | +33 | +34.1 |N.E. | 6-5-4 + 5 | +45.5 | +35 | +39.8 |W. | 5-3-6 + 6 | +46 | +34 | +39.17 |W.N.W. N. by W. Chble.| 7-0 + 7 | +49 | +38 | +43 |E. by S. S.E. Calm. | 2-4-0 + 8 | +51 | +35 | +42 |E. E.S.E. E. | 3-5-1 + 9 | +48.7 | +32.3 | +38.7 |N. Vble. E. | 5-2 + 10 | +41 | +35 | +37.17 |E.S.E. | 5-6 + 11 | +36 | +33 | +34.5 |E. by N. Calm. | 4-3-0 + 12 | +39.3 | +35 | +36.7 |N. N. by E. | 3-5-6 + 13 | +38 | +33.5 | +35.6 |N. by W. N. | 8-9 + 14 | +38 | +33.7 | +35.23 |N. | 9 + 15 | +42.5 | +34 | +37.2 |N. by W. | 9-10 + 16 | +39 | +35.3 | +37.7 |N. Calm. |10-7-0 + 17 | +46 | +36 | +42.5 |N.N.W. W. by N. | 8-5-3 + 18 | +43 | +35 | +39.5 |Vble. Calm. | 3-4-0 + 19 | +47.3 | +36 | +41.6 |N.W. | 5-6-3 + 20 | +55.5 | +41 | +46.9 |N.N.W. N.W. Calm. | 3-5-0 + 21 | +57 | +44 | +49.17 |N. Vble. N.N.W. | 4-1-3 + 22 | +47 | +40 | +42.5 |Calm. N.N.W. | 0-6-5 + 23 | +49.3 | +38.5 | +43.26 |N.N.W. N. N. by W. | 8-7-8 + 24 | +48 | +36.5 | +41.9 |N. N.W. by N. | 9-7-3 + 25 | +52 | +36 | +43.16 |N.W. Calm. | 6-4-0 + 26 | +43 | +38 | +40.2 |S.S.E. E.S.E. E. | 2-6 + 27 | +51.5 | +40 | +44.17 |N.E. Calm. | 5-3-0 + 28 | +60 | +45 | +51.8 |W. W.N.W. W. by S. | 2-3-2 + 29 | +53.5 | +47 | +50.2 |N. | 4-3-1 + 30 | +55 | +38.3 | +46.6 |W. by N. N. | 4-8-10 + 31 | +48 | +37.5 | +42.5 |N. by W. | 3-8-5 + | | +----------+ | + | | | 1285.4 | | + | | +----------+ | + | | | +41.46 | | + + +----+----------------------+-------------------------------------------- +Day | Barometer and | +of | Thermometer | +Mon.| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. + +----------+-----------+ + | _Barom._ | _Thermo._ | +----+----------+-----------+-------------------------------------------- + 1 | 29.786 | +39.83 | b. c. p.s. a little frost during the night. + 2 | 29.838 | +35.5 | b. c. + 3 | 29.986 | +46 | b. c. a beautiful night. + 4 | 29.864 | +40.3 | o. p. o. f. p. r. o. sleet. + 5 | 30.015 | +43 | b. c. + 6 | 30.124 | +42 | b. c. b. c. q. Ther. at midnight +35 deg.; + | | | coat of ice on pools where there is snow. + 7 | 30.216 | +49.5 | b. c. + 8 | 30.185 | +46 | b. c. + 9 | 30.216 | +40.3 | o. b. c. o. + 10 | 30.024 | +42 | o. b. c. o. + 11 | 29.828 | +42 | p. r. f. o. f. w. o. Heavy rain during + | | | the night; wet fog and showers of rain. + 12 | 29.802 | +40 | o. f. p. r. o. w. f. + 13 | 29.938 | +39 | o. f. p. r. o. f. o. p. r. q. + 14 | 29.968 | +41.3 | r. o. b. c. o. + 15 | 29.905 | +41.7 | o. b. c. o. r. A great quantity of water + | | | coming down N. Pole River this morning; + | | | sleet. + 16 | 29.865 | +44.2 | p. w. s. q. o. s. b. c. Snow showers all + | | | night; ther. at 6 p.m. +45 deg. + 17 | 29.902 | +47.2 | o. b. c. at 5 p.m. Ther. at +54 deg. + 18 | | | b. c. b. c. o. + 19 | 29.716 | +48 | b. c. q. + 20 | 29.714 | +56 | b. c. + 21 | 29.776 | +54.5 | b. c. + 22 | 29.794 | +46.5 | o. b. c. p. r. b. c. + 23 | 29.791 | +46 | d. r. b. c. p. r. b. c. + 24 | 29.858 | +45.5 | b. c. + 25 | 29.967 | +53 | b. c. + 26 | 29.815 | +47.2 | b. c. b. c. q. + 27 | 29.917 | +49 | b. c. + 28 | 30.038 | +53.5 | b. c. + 29 | 30.113 | +56.8 | b. c. + 30 | 30.017 | +49 | b. c. p.r. The barometer fell some + | | | hundredths lower than when registered at + | | | 6 A.M., but immediately began to rise as + | | | soon as the wind changed to the north. + 31 | 30.102 | +51.5 | b. c. + + + + + FORT HOPE, REPULSE BAY. + -- _Abstract of Meteorological Journal for August, 1847._ + + +------+-----------------------------------+------------------------ +Day | Temperature of the Atmosphere | + of | taken three times in | Prevailing Winds. +the | twenty-four hours. | +onth. +------------+-----------+----------+--------------+--------- + | _Highest._ | _Lowest._ | _Mean._ | _Direction._ | _Force._ +------+------------+-----------+----------+--------------+--------- + | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | _deg.m._ | | + 1 | +52 | +40 | +44.8 | N. | 4-6-3 + 2 | +56 | +40 | +47.7 | N.N.W. | 6-2-1 + 3 | +49 | +44.5 | +46.2 | N.W. N.N.W. | 6-7-5 + 4 | +41 | +34.7 | +36.9 | N.N.W. N. | 9-8 + 5 | +54 | +34 | +62.5 | N. N. by W. | 7-6-3 + 6 | +50 | +46.5 | +49.8 | Vble. W.S.W. | 3 + 7 | +59.3 | +43.5 | +49.3 | S.W. Calm. | 4-5-0 + 8 | +49.5 | +42 | +45.5 | Vble. N.W. | 1-2-6 + 9 | +44.5 | +37 | +39.83 | N. N.W. | 8-6-4 + 10 | +37.5 | +35 | | N. | 9-10-8 + + + +----+----------------------+-------------------------------------------- + Day| Barometer and | + of | Thermometer | + the| attached. | Remarks on the Weather, &c. +mont+----------+-----------+ + | _Barom._ | _Thermo._ | +----+----------+-----------+-------------------------------------------- + 1 | 30.054 | +56 | b. c. + 2 | 30.057 | +56.5 | b. c. + 3 | 30.051 | +48.5 | b. c. q. p. r.; at 5 P.M. a heavy squall + | | | and showers of rain. + 4 | 29.93 | +41.5 | b. c. q. p. s. + 5 | 30.169 | +46.5 | b. c.; frost last night. + 6 | 30.124 | +54 | b. c. Ther. at 5 P.M. +62 deg.--; all the + | | | large and deep lakes still covered with + | | | ice. + 7 | 30.035 | +61 | b. c. q. + 8 | 29.806 | +54 | o. p. r. + 9 | 29.882 | +47 | b. c. q. + 10 | 29.732 | +43 | o. r. s. s. b. c. + + + + + _Figures and Letters used for denoting the state of the + Weather and the force of the Wind, as recommended by + Captain (now Admiral) Beaufort._ + + 0--Calm. + 1--Light air. + 2--Light breeze. + 3--Gentle breeze. + 4--Moderate breeze. + 5--Fresh breeze. + 6--Strong breeze. + 7--Moderate gale. + 8--Fresh gale. + 9--Strong gale. + 10--Whole gale. + 11--Storm. + 12--Hurricane. + + b.--Blue sky. + c.--Cloudy. + d.--Drizzling rain. + f.--Foggy. + g.--Gloomy dark weather. + h.--Hail + l.--Lightning + m.--Misty hazy atmosphere. + o.--Overcast. + p.--Passing temporary showers. + q.--Squally. + r.--Rain--continued rain. + s.--Snow. + t.--Thunder. + u.--Ugly, threatening appearance of the weather. + v.--Visibility of distant objects whether the sky be cloudy or not. + w.--Wet dew. + . --Under any letter indicates an extraordinary degree. + + +MARCHANT SINGER & CO., PRINTERS, INGRAM-COURT, FENCHURCH-STREET + + + + + LIBRARY OF + AUSTRALIAN TRAVELS, &c. + PUBLISHED BY T. AND W. BOONE, + 29, NEW BOND STREET. + + Now ready, in 2 vols. 8vo. with numerous Plates, some coloured, + NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION + INTO + CENTRAL AUSTRALIA, + + BY ORDER OF HER MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT, + DURING THE YEARS 1844, 5, 6, + + With Notices of the Colony of South Australia. + + BY CAPTAIN CHARLES STURT, + LATE 39TH REGT. + COLONIAL TREASURER, AND + AUTHOR OF "TWO EXPEDITIONS INTO SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA." + + +The character of the far Interior of Australia had long been a most +interesting geographical problem, many imagining the centre to be +occupied by a large inland sea, others conjecturing that it was an arid +desert, which opinion was further strengthened by Mr. Eyre's +unsuccessful endeavour to penetrate higher than the 29th degree of +latitude in his expedition during the years 1840 and 1. Captain Sturt, +so appropriately denominated the "Father of Australian Discovery," in +consequence of being the first traveller to explore the rivers Murray, +Murrumbidgee, Bogan, and Castlereagh, volunteered to conduct a party +into the interior to determine this important question. With the +approbation of Lord Stanley, the Colonial Minister, he accordingly +started in the year 1844, and, after a series of unparalleled +privations, succeeded in reaching the centre of the Continent in a line +direct north of Adelaide. The journal of this perilous Expedition gives +an account of the remarkable Stony Desert, the bed of Lake Torrens, +descriptions of the Natives and their villages, and the discovery of +several small rivers, &c.; added to which, his observations and +collections on the Natural History have since been arranged by R. Brown, +Esq. and J. Gould, Esq. in the form of an Appendix. + +"The details of this romantic and perilous Expedition are replete with +interest. From the numerous and lengthened expeditions he has +undertaken, and the general intelligence and scientific skill he brings +to bear upon the question, we know of no recent traveller in Australia +whose opinions are entitled to more weight.--The portion of the work +which refers to the Colony of South Australia is particularly valuable +to intending emigrants."--_Morning Herald._ + + + + + JOURNALS OF EXPEDITIONS OF DISCOVERY + IN + NORTH-WEST AND WESTERN AUSTRALIA, + DURING THE YEARS 1837, 1838, and 1839, + Under the Authority of her Majesty's Government. + + With Observations on the Agricultural and Commercial Capabilities + and Prospects of several newly-explored fertile Regions, including + + AUSTRALIND, + and on the Moral and Physical Condition of the Aboriginal + Inhabitants, &c. &c. + + BY GEORGE GREY, ESQ., LATE CAPTAIN 83RD REGT. + FORMERLY GOVERNOR OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA, NOW GOVERNOR OF NEW ZEALAND. + + _With Two large Maps by J. Arrowsmith, and numerous Illustrations, + some coloured, in 2 vols. 8vo._ + + +"It is not with the slightest hope of satisfying curiosity, or to +anticipate the interest which the public in general, and geographers +especially, always feel in enterprises of this nature, but merely to +give such a sketch of the principal features of the expedition us may +serve to direct those who are desirous of obtaining information +respecting a portion of this remarkable country--hitherto only visited +by Tasman, Dampier, Baudin, and King, and never before, we believe, +penetrated by an European--to look forward to the detailed journals of +the spirited officers who had the conduct of the expedition." +--_From Geographical Transactions._ + +A great portion of the country described in this Journal has never +before been visited by any European. The Eastern coast of Short's Bay +was for the first time seen and explored during the progress of these +expeditions. + +"We have rarely seen a more interesting book; it is full of splendid +description and startling personal adventure; written in a plain, manly, +unaffected style."--_Examiner._ + +"It is impossible to have perused these highly interesting and important +volumes without being inspired with feelings of warm admiration for the +indomitable perseverance and heroical self-devotion of their gallant and +enterprising author. Setting aside the vastly important results of +Captain Grey's several expeditions, it is hardly possible to conceive +narratives of more stirring interest than those of which his volumes are +for the most part composed."--_United Service Gazette._ + +"We have not read such a work of Travels for many years; it unites the +interest of a romance with the permanent qualities of an historical and +scientific treatise."--_Atlas._ + +"We recommend our readers to the volumes of Captain Grey, assuring them +they will derive both amusement and instruction from the +perusal."--_Times._ + +"This is a work deserving high praise. As a book of Travels it is one of +the most interesting we remember to have met with."--_Westminster +Review._ + +"A book which should be in every lending library and book-club." +--_Englishman's Magazine._ + +"The contents of these interesting volumes will richly repay an +attentive perusal." +--_Emigration Gazette._ + +"These narratives are replete with interest, and blend information and +amusement in a very happy manner."--_Australian Magazine._ + + + + +Just published, in 1 vol. 8vo. with Plates and Woodcuts, + +JOURNAL +OF AN +OVERLAND EXPEDITION IN AUSTRALIA, +FROM +MORETON BAY TO PORT ESSINGTON. + +_A distance of upwards of 3000 miles._ + +BY DR. LUDWIG LEICHHARDT. + +N.B. A large 3 sheet Map of the Route by J. Arrowsmith is published, and +to be had separately in a Case, price 9_s._ + + +OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. + +"A work of unquestionable merit and utility, and its author's name will +justly stand high upon the honourable list of able and enterprising men, +whose courage, perseverance, and literary abilities have contributed so +largely to our knowledge of the geography and productions of our distant +southern colonies."--_Blackwood's Mag._ + +"For the courage with which this lengthened and perilous journey was +undertaken, the skill with which it was directed, and the perseverance +with which it was performed, it is almost unrivalled in the annals of +exploring enterprise. It richly deserves attention."--_Britannia._ + +"The narrative in which he relates the results of this remarkable +journey, and the extraordinary fatigues and privations endured by +himself and his fellow travellers, is not merely valuable for its facts, +but full of absorbing interest as a journal of perilous +adventures."--_Atlas._ + +"The volume before us comprises the narrative of one of the most +remarkable enterprises ever planned by man's sagacity and executed by +man's courage and endurance. To our minds there is in every point of +view an inexpressible charm in such a book as this. It not merely +narrates to us the opening of a new material world for human enterprise +and scientific investigation, but it makes more clearly known to us the +wondrous powers and capacities of human nature. We recommend it to our +readers as a work scarcely less remarkable for the extraordinary +enterprise recorded in it, than for the simplicity and modesty with +which it is related."--_Morning Herald._ + +"The result of his enterprise was thoroughly successful. It has added +not a little to our existing stock of knowledge in the various +departments of natural history, and has made discovery in districts +before untrodden, of an almost boundless extent of fertile +country."--_Examiner._ + +"The most striking feature in the expedition is its successful +accomplishment, which is of itself sufficient to place Dr. L. in the +first rank of travellers. How much Dr. L. has added to geographical +discovery can only be felt by an examination of the admirable maps which +accompany the volume. These have been deduced on a large scale from the +traveller's sketches by Mr. Arrowsmith, and engraved with a distinctness +of execution, and a brief fulness of descriptive remark which leave +nothing to be desired."--_Spectator._ + + + + + _Lately published, in 2 vols. 8vo. cloth, with 8 Maps and Charts, + and 57 Illustrations_ + BY COMMAND OF THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY. + + DISCOVERIES IN AUSTRALIA + OF THE + VICTORIA, ADELAIDE, ALBERT, AND FITZROY RIVERS, + AND EXPEDITIONS INTO THE INTERIOR; + DURING THE + VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BEAGLE, + BETWEEN THE YEARS 1837 AND 1843: ALSO + + A NARRATIVE OF THE VISITS OF H.M.S. BRITOMART, + COMMANDER OWEN STANLEY, R.N., F.R.S. + _TO THE ISLANDS IN THE ARAFURA SEA_. + BY CAPT. J. LORT STOKES, R.N. + + +"The whole narrative is so captivating, that we expect to find the work +as much in demand at circulating libraries as at institutions of graver +pretensions."--_Colon. Gaz._ + +"We have to thank Capt. Stokes for a most valuable work, one that will +place his name by the side of Vancouver, Tasman, Dampier, and +Cook."--_New Quar. Review._ + +"The science of Navigation owes a deep debt to Captain Stokes. The +information contained in the present volumes must render them an +invaluable companion to any ship performing a voyage to that part of the +world."--_Foreign Quarterly Review._ + +"Every part of it is full of matter, both for the general and scientific +reader. With the acts of throwing the lead, taking angles, &c. lively +anecdotes and pleasing ideas are constantly associated, so that we very +much doubt whether any reader will lay aside the book, large as it is, +without regret. In some parts you have all the breathless excitement of +a voyage of discovery, and sail up new rivers, and explore new lands, +while elsewhere your thoughts are directed to the tracks of commerce and +political speculation. Altogether the work is a charming specimen of +nautical literature, written in a pure, flexible, terse, and elegant +style, and bespeaks everywhere in the author a mind endued with very +high moral and intellectual qualities."--_Fraser's Mag._ + +"While these volumes must prove of great value to the maritime +profession, to the geographer, and to emigrants, they cannot fail to be +perused with interest by readers in general."--_Athenaeum._ + +"We cannot, in noticing these two ably written and interesting volumes, +insist too strongly upon their importance alike to the mariner, the +geographer, and the general reader. The author is a man of considerable +merit, a shrewd observer of men and things, and who was fitted by nature +and inclination to conduct these researches into the vast unknown +continent whither he proceeded with enterprise and spirit. These volumes +contain a fund of interesting matter, and we warmly recommend this +valuable addition to our literary and scientific stores to the attention +of the public."--_Sentinel._ + +"The contents of these volumes, rich, varied and full of interest, will +be their best recommendation. For scientific accuracy, they will be +highly valued by the geographer and navigator, while they will be read +for mere amusement by the public at large."--_Sunday Times._ + + + + + THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO. + + _By Permission of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty._ + Now ready, in 2 vols. 8vo. with numerous Maps, Plates, and Woodcuts, + + NARRATIVE + OF THE + SURVEYING VOYAGE OF H.M.S. FLY, + UNDER THE COMMAND OF + CAPTAIN BLACKWOOD, R. N. + IN TORRES STRAIT, NEW GUINEA, AND OTHER ISLANDS + IN THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO; + + TOGETHER + WITH AN EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR + OF THE + EASTERN PART OF THE ISLAND OF JAVA, + DURING THE YEARS 1842 TO 1846. + + BY J. BEETE JUKES, M. A. + NATURALIST TO THE EXPEDITION. + + + OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. + +"We must congratulate Mr. Jukes on the value of his publication. +Scientific without being abstruse, and picturesque without being +extravagant, he has made his volumes a striking and graceful addition to +our knowledge of countries highly interesting in themselves, and +assuming hourly importance in the eyes of the people of +England."--_Blackwood's Magazine._ + +"To transcribe the title-page of this book is sufficient to attract +public curiosity towards it--to peruse the book itself is to be rewarded +with the knowledge of a mass of information in which complete confidence +can be reposed, for, from the first page to the last, it is apparent +that the main object with Mr. Jukes is to tell all that he knows and +believes to be true, rather than to win favour from his readers by his +manner of telling it. There is not a pretty phrase, an exaggeration, nor +an invention in the two volumes of Mr. Jukes; all is plain unadorned +fact, and because it is so, is deserving, not merely of perusal, but of +study. Such are the recommendations of Mr. Jukes' pages to the public, +and all who desire to see truth united with novelty will peruse +them."--_Morning Herald._ + +"Mr. Jukes has been most judicious in his selection of topics whereon to +dwell in his narrative, and he describes with great vivacity and +picturesque power. There is much novelty and freshness in his book, and +much valuable information."--_Daily News._ + +"There are very few pages in the work which are not readable and +entertaining."--_Morning Post._ + +"Captain Blackwood having waived his right of authorship, the narrative +of the voyage has been undertaken by Mr. Jukes, favourably known by an +agreeable and informing book on Newfoundland, nor will the present work +detract from his reputation. The narrative is well planned, pleasantly +written, and full of matter."--_Spectator._ + +"A great deal was seen, and Geography, Topography, Geology, Natural +History, Ethnology, Philology, and Commerce may all be benefited by the +work before us."--_Literary Gazette._ + +"Mr. Jukes has performed his portion of the work with great ability, +sparing no pains in the working up of his abundant material, so as to +make it a book of science, as well as a book of amusement."--_Critic._ + +"Although a professed man of science, he has described what he saw in a +lucid and untechnical manner, so that his work will be found interesting +to the ordinary reader, while it is equally valuable to the scientific. +The amount of information conveyed is very great."--_Midland Herald._ + + + + + In 3 vols. 8vo. with Maps and numerous Plates, + + JOURNALS OF EXPEDITIONS OF DISCOVERY + INTO + CENTRAL AUSTRALIA, + AND + OVERLAND FROM ADELAIDE TO KING GEORGE'S SOUND, + IN THE YEARS 1840-1; + + _Sent by the Colonists of South Australia_, + WITH THE SANCTION AND SUPPORT OF THE GOVERNMENT: + INCLUDING + An Account of the Manners and Customs of the Aborigines, and the + state of their relations with Europeans. + + BY EDWARD JOHN EYRE, + RESIDENT MAGISTRATE, MURRAY RIVER, NOW LIEUT.-GOVERNOR OF NEW ZEALAND. + +*** _The Founder's Medal of the Royal Geographical Society was awarded +to Mr. Eyre for the discovery of Lake Torrens, and explorations of far +greater extent in Australia than any other traveller, a large portion +never having been previously traversed by civilized man._ + +"His narrative of what he did and overcame, is more like the stirring +stories of Park and Bruce than the tame and bookish diffuseness of +modern travellers. Nothing short of a perusal of the volumes can enable +our readers to appreciate this book."--_Spectator._ + +"We might easily extract much more from Mr. Eyre's volumes of interest +to the reader, but our limits circumscribe us. We therefore bid farewell +to them, with the recommendation to the public, not to overlook a work +which, though it records the failure of a great enterprize, is yet full +of matter, which proclaims it of value."--_Atlas._ + +"Mr. Eyre writes with the plain unaffected earnestness of the best of +the old travellers."--_Examiner._ + +"An intensely interesting book."--_Tablet._ + +"We must now close these interesting volumes, not, however, without +expressing our high approval both of the matter they contain, and of the +manner of their compilation. We rise from the perusal of them with a +feeling similar to that which follows the enjoyment of a pleasant work +of fiction."--_Critic._ + + + + + In 1 vol. 8vo. cloth, with large Map by Arrowsmith, and numerous + Illustrations, + + SOUTH AUSTRALIA AND ITS MINES, + + _With an Historical Sketch of the Colony, under its several + Administrations, to the Period of Captain Grey's Departure_. + + BY FRANCIS DUTTON. + +"The best work which has yet issued from the press, descriptive of the +resources and management of this thriving colony."--_Mining Journal._ + +"We have here a well-timed book. South Australia and Its Mines are now +objects of great interest; and Mr. Dutton's plain, unadorned recital, +contains just what the intending emigrant, or the mercantile inquirer, +will rejoice at having placed within his reach."--_Colonial Gazette._ + + + COLONIZATION; + PARTICULARLY IN SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA, + WITH SOME REMARKS ON SMALL FARMS AND OVER POPULATION. + + BY MAJOR-GENERAL SIR CHARLES JAMES NAPIER, K.C.B. + Author of "The Colonies; particularly the Ionian Islands" + + In 1 vol. 8vo. price 7_s._ boards. + +"We earnestly recommend the book to all who feel an interest in the +welfare of the people."--_Sun._ + + + _In 1 vol. post 8vo. price 5s. 6d._ + + HINTS FOR AUSTRALIAN EMIGRANTS, + + WITH + ENGRAVINGS AND EXPLANATORY DESCRIPTIONS + OF THE WATER RAISING WHEELS, + AND MODES OF IRRIGATING LAND IN SYRIA, EGYPT, SOUTH AMERICA, ETC. + + BY PETER CUNNINGHAM, + SURGEON, R.N. + _Author of "Two Years in New South Wales," &c._ + +"The mere name of Mr. Cunningham affords an ample guarantee for the +value of any work to which it may be prefixed; and, "to all whom it may +concern," we can confidently recommend this remarkably neat little +volume as replete with practical information. Its numerous illustrative +engravings in wood are executed in a very superior style."--_Naval and +Military Gazette, October 23rd, 1841._ + + + + + In 1 vol. 8vo. Map and Plates, cloth, price 12_s._ + + AUSTRALIA, + FROM PORT MACQUARIE TO MORETON BAY, + + WITH + _Descriptions of the Natives, their Manners and Customs, the Geology, + Natural Productions, Fertility, and Resources of that Region_. + + First explored and surveyed by order of the Colonial Government. + BY CLEMENT HODGKINSON. + +"The work before our consideration contains certain details connected +with the portion of Australia, described in it, which will prove of +first-rate importance to the colonist and emigrant, since they are +evidently derived from practical experience. Throughout this +unpretending little work we trace great honesty of purpose, and a +disposition to state no more than the bare facts as they presented +themselves."--_New Quarterly Review._ + + + _Just published, in 2 vols. 8vo. with a large Map_, + + AN HISTORICAL, + POLITICAL, AND STATISTICAL ACCOUNT + OF THE + ISLAND OF CEYLON. + + BY CHARLES PRIDHAM, ESQ. + AUTHOR OF + "THE MAURITIUS AND ITS DEPENDENCIES." + +"----All these events will be found fully set forth in the volumes under +notice, which are certainly far superior as a history of Ceylon to any +other that has yet appeared. The reader will also find in these pages +curious and original information respecting the habits, manners and +customs of the Cingalese, which he may look for in vain in similar +publications. Every portion of this valuable work teems with information +of a precise and important character."--_Observer._ + +"Those who seek information on the subject of Ceylon, will find his book +a great storehouse of facts."--_Economist._ + + + + + JUST PUBLISHED, + + A SERIES OF TEN COLOURED VIEWS, + TAKEN DURING THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF HER MAJESTY'S SHIPS + ENTERPRISE and INVESTIGATOR, + UNDER THE COMMAND OF + CAPTN. SIR JAMES C. ROSS, KT. F. R. S., + IN SEARCH OF + CAPTN. SIR JOHN FRANKLIN, KT. K.C.H., + + =Drawn by Lieut. W. H. BROWNE=, R.N. + LATE OF H. M. S. ENTERPRISE, + + With a Summary of the Arctic Expeditions in search of Sir John + Franklin. + + Dedicated, by Special Permission, + TO THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY. + + Price, in a Cover 16s. + Handsomely bound 21s. + + LONDON. + ACKERMANN & CO., 96, STRAND, + By Appointment to H. M. THE QUEEN, H. R. H. PRINCE ALBERT, + H. R. H. THE DUCHESS OF KENT, and the ROYAL FAMILY. + + + + +OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. + + +----The extreme interest evinced by the public would be likely to secure +a welcome for these views if their execution had been less felicitous +than it is. The Party arriving at the Southern Depot is fearfully +grand.----ATHENAEUM. + +----Such are these ten extraordinary views; revealing scenes which are +enough to appal the stoutest hearts. We seem to ask of these mountains +of thick-ribbed ice "are our countrymen hidden from us by your fantastic +forms?" &c.----LITERARY GAZETTE. + +----We do not remember ever being so powerfully impressed with the +sublimity of portfolio drawings as with some of these views of the _icy +Polar Regions_ of the trackless North.----UNITED SERVICE GAZETTE. + +----We do not speak of it as a work of art merely, but of the evident +truth of delineation, of local colouring, and atmospheric +effects.----GLOBE. + +----This is a work which will no doubt meet with general +patronage--giving a vivid idea of the frozen regions.----BELL'S LIFE. + +----Ten of the most interesting views which scenery can +furnish.----ATLAS. + +----Perhaps the most attractive, as well as most effective, is _Noon in +Mid-Winter_, and conveys the most solemn notions of the _Polar Regions_. +This portfolio is the novelty of the season.----CRITIC. + + + + +[Illustration: + + DISCOVERIES OF THE + HON^{BLE}. HUDSON'S BAY CO^S. ARCTIC EXPEDITION + TO THE NORTH OF REPULSE BAY; + Conducted by JOHN RAE ESQ^R. 1846 & 1847; + Shewing in connection, the Discoveries made by + PARRY, ROSS, BACK, + & the Hon^{ble}. Company's Expedition Conducted by + DEASE & SIMPSON 1838-1839. + + _Adjusted & Drawn by_ + John Arrowsmith + + _London, Pub^d. Jan^y. 1^{st}. 1848, by John Arrowsmith, 10 Soho + Square._ + + _Discoveries of The Hon^{ble}. Hudson's Bay Co^s. Expeditions + are Col^d._ _Red_ + _D^o._ _of Sir Edward Parry_ _Purple_ + _D^o._ _of Sir John Ross_ _Yellow_ + _D^o._ _of Sir George Back_ _Green_] + + + + + * * * * * * + + + + +Transcriber's note: + +Obvious punctuation errors were corrected. + +Hyphen removed: a[-]head (p. 25), along[-]shore (p. 11), lime[-]stone +(pp. 107, 127). + +Hyphen added: snow[-]drift (pp. 160, 166). + +The following words appear with and without hyphens with similar +frequency and have not been changed: Chief[-]Factor, day[-]light, +foot[-]marks, in[-]doors, rein[-]deer. + +Native names have not been changed and appear with inconsistent +hyphenation. + +Chapter V contents: "North-pole" changed to "North Pole". + +Pp. vi, 61: "chace" changed to "chase" (Produce of the chase). + +P. viii: "CHAP. VIII" changed to "CHAPTER VIII". + +P. 11: "Canada mithatch" changed to "Canada nuthatch". + +P. 17: "excursons" changed to "excursions" (by making excursions). + +P. 30: "direcrection" changed to "direction" (east and west direction). + +P. 66: "Ivitchuck" changed to "Ivitchuk". + +P. 68: "lide" changed to "line" (line of declination). + +P. 113: added "to" (next to my skin). + +P. 136: "threugh" changed to "through" (the late journey safety +through). + +P. 163: "dissappeared" changed to "disappeared" (in many places, +entirely disappeared). + +P. 201: "fluffly" changed to "fluffy" (much shorter and less fluffy). + +P. 202: "Seiurius" changed to "Seiurus". + +P. 209: "p." inserted before "200" in item 56. + +Pp. 218-223: The table entitled "Dip of the needle and force of magnetic +attraction..." was reformatted and abbreviations were used to fit within +a reasonable width. + +Pp. 224-247: Each pair of pages is one table but the two pages are +presented one after the other. An additional column with the days of the +month has been added to the second page of each pair. + +P. 231: "Speculae" changed to "Spiculae" (Spiculae of snow falling). + +P. 235: The digits in the seventh entry are missing. + +P. 239: word following "colourless" is missing. + +Ad p. 4: "57 Illustration" changed to "57 Illustrations". + +Ad p. 5: "thau" changed to "than" (rather than to win favour). + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION TO THE +SHORES OF THE ARCTIC SEA IN 1846 AND 1847*** + + +******* This file should be named 39917.txt or 39917.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/9/9/1/39917 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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