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diff --git a/39379-h/39379-h.htm b/39379-h/39379-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..02f78de --- /dev/null +++ b/39379-h/39379-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,10905 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII" /> +<title>Collins' Illustrated Guide to London and Neighbourhood, by Anonymous</title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + P { margin-top: .75em; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + P.gutsumm { margin-left: 5%;} + P.poetry {margin-left: 3%; } + .GutSmall { font-size: 0.7em; } + H1, H2 { + text-align: center; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + } + H3, H4, H5 { + text-align: center; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + } + BODY{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + table { border-collapse: collapse; } +table {margin-left:auto; margin-right:auto;} + td { vertical-align: top; border: 1px solid black;} + td p { margin: 0.2em; } + .blkquot {margin-left: 4em; margin-right: 4em;} /* block indent */ + + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .pagenum {position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: small; + text-align: right; + font-weight: normal; + color: gray; + } + img { border: none; } + img.dc { float: left; width: 50px; height: 50px; } + p.gutindent { margin-left: 2em; } + div.gapspace { height: 0.8em; } + div.gapline { height: 0.8em; width: 100%; border-top: 1px solid;} + div.gapmediumline { height: 0.3em; width: 40%; margin-left:30%; + border-top: 1px solid; } + div.gapshortdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 20%; + margin-left: 40%; border-top: 1px solid; + border-bottom: 1px solid; } + div.gapdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 50%; + margin-left: 25%; border-top: 1px solid; + border-bottom: 1px solid;} + div.gapshortline { height: 0.3em; width: 20%; margin-left:40%; + border-top: 1px solid; } + .citation {vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: none;} + img.floatleft { float: left; + margin-right: 1em; + margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } + img.floatright { float: right; + margin-left: 1em; margin-top: 0.5em; + margin-bottom: 0.5em; } + img.clearcenter {display: block; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0.5em; + margin-bottom: 0.5em} + --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> +</head> +<body> +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Collins' Illustrated Guide to London and +Neighbourhood, by Anonymous + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Collins' Illustrated Guide to London and Neighbourhood + + +Author: Anonymous + + + +Release Date: April 5, 2012 [eBook #39379] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COLLINS' ILLUSTRATED GUIDE TO +LONDON AND NEIGHBOURHOOD*** +</pre> +<p>Transcribed from the 1873 William Collins, Sons and Company +edition by David Price, email ccx074@pglaf.org</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/coverb.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Cover of book" +title= +"Cover of book" +src="images/covers.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p0b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey, Westminster Hall, +Crimean and Canning Monuments. Penitentiary, Vauxhall Bridge, +Lambeth Suspension Bridge, Lambeth Place, and Bethlehem Hospital +in the distance" +title= +"Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey, Westminster Hall, +Crimean and Canning Monuments. Penitentiary, Vauxhall Bridge, +Lambeth Suspension Bridge, Lambeth Place, and Bethlehem Hospital +in the distance" +src="images/p0s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h1>COLLINS’<br /> +ILLUSTRATED<br /> +GUIDE TO LONDON<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">AND</span><br /> +NEIGHBOURHOOD:</h1> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">BEING +A</span></p> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">CONCISE +DESCRIPTION OF THE CHIEF PLACES OF INTEREST IN THE</span><br /> +<span class="GutSmall">METROPOLIS, AND THE BEST MODES OF +OBTAINING ACCESS</span><br /> +<span class="GutSmall">TO THEM: WITH INFORMATION RELATING +TO</span></p> +<p style="text-align: center">RAILWAYS, OMNIBUSES, STEAMERS, +&c.</p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center">With fifty-eight Illustrations by +Sargent and others,<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">AND</span><br /> +<span class="smcap">A CLUE-MAP BY BARTHOLOMEW</span>.</p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center">LONDON:<br /> +WILLIAM COLLINS, SONS, AND COMPANY,<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">17 WARWICK SQUARE, PATERNOSTER +ROW.</span><br /> +1873.</p> +<h2><a name="pagev"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +v</span>PREFACE.</h2> +<p><span class="smcap">In</span> this work an attempt is made to +furnish Strangers with a handy and useful Guide to the chief +objects of interest in the Metropolis and its Environs: +comprising also much that will be interesting to permanent +Residents. After a few pages of General Description, the +various Buildings and other places of attraction are treated in +convenient groups or sections, according to their nature. +Short Excursions from the Metropolis are then noticed. +Tables, lists, and serviceable information concerning railways, +tramways, omnibuses, cabs, telegraphs, postal rules, and other +special matters, follow these sections. An <span +class="smcap">Alphabetical Index</span> at the end furnishes the +means of easy reference.</p> +<p>The information is brought down to the latest date, either in +the Text or in the Appendix at the end. And the Clue-map +has, in like manner, been filled in with the recently opened +lines of Railway, &c., as well as with indications of the +Railways sanctioned, but not yet completed.</p> +<h2><a name="pagevi"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +vi</span>CONTENTS.</h2> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="GutSmall">PAGE</span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Hotel Charges</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#pageviii">viii</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">General Description</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page9">9</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">A First Glance at the City</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page15">15</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">A First Glance at the +West-End</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Palaces and Mansions, Royal and +Noble</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page33">33</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Houses of Parliament; Westminster +Hall; Government Offices</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page40">40</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">St. Paul’s; Westminster Abbey; +Churches; Chapels; Cemeteries</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page47">47</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">British and South Kensington Museums; +Scientific Establishments</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page62">62</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">National Gallery; Royal Academy; Art +Exhibitions</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page68">68</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Colleges; Schools; Hospitals; +Charities</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page70">70</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The Tower; The Mint; The Custom House; +The General Post-Office</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page77">77</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The Corporation; Mansion House; +Guildhall; Monument; Royal Exchange</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page84">84</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The Temple; Inns of Court; Courts of +Justice; Prisons</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page90">90</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Banks; Insurance Offices; Stock +Exchange; City Companies</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page93">93</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The River; Docks; Thames Tunnel; +Bridges; Piers</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page97">97</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Food Supply; Markets; Bazaars; +Shops</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page109">109</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Clubs; Hotels; Inns; Chop-Houses; +Taverns; Coffee-Houses; Coffee-Shops</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page116">116</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Theatres, Concerts, and Other Places +of Amusement</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page121">121</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Parks and Public Grounds; Zoological, +Botanical, and Horticultural Gardens</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page125">125</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Albert Hall and International +Exhibition</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page129">129</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Omnibuses; Cabs; Railways; +Steamers</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page136">136</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p><a name="pagevii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +vii</span>SHORT EXCURSIONS—</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap"> Up the +River</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page143">143</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> <span class="smcap">Down the +River</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page154">154</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> <span class="smcap">Crystal Palace, +&c.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page162">162</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">APPENDIX.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p>TABLES, LISTS, AND USEFUL HINTS—</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p class="gutindent">Suburban Towns and Villages, within +Twelve Miles’ Railway-Distance</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page169">169</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p class="gutindent">Chief Omnibus Routes</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page171">171</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p class="gutindent">Tramways</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page173">173</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p class="gutindent">Clubs and Club-Houses</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page173">173</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p class="gutindent">The London Parcels’ Delivery +Company</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page174">174</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p class="gutindent">Money-Order Offices, and Post-Office +Savings-Banks</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page175">175</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p class="gutindent">London Letters, Postal and Telegraph +System</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page175">175</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p class="gutindent">Reading and News-Rooms</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page176">176</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p class="gutindent">Chess-Rooms</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page177">177</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p class="gutindent">Theatres</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page177">177</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p class="gutindent">Concert Rooms</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page178">178</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p class="gutindent">Music Halls</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page178">178</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p class="gutindent">Modes of Admission to Various +Interesting Places</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page179">179</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p class="gutindent">Principal, Public, and Turkish Baths</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page180">180</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p class="gutindent">Medicated Baths</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page181">181</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p class="gutindent">Cabs</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page182">182</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p class="gutindent">Hints to Strangers</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page183">183</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p class="gutindent">Commissionaires or Messengers</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page183">183</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The Great Interceptive Main Drainage +System of London</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page184">184</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>INDEX</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page185">185</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h2><a name="pageviii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +viii</span>HOTEL CHARGES.</h2> +<p><span class="smcap">There</span> is only one class of hotels +in and near London of which the charges can be stated with any +degree of precision. The <i>old</i> hotels, both at the +West-End and in the City, keep no printed tariff; they are not +accustomed even to be asked beforehand what are their +charges. Most of the visitors are more or less +<i>recommended</i> by guests who have already sojourned at these +establishments, and who can give information as to what +<i>they</i> have paid. Some of the hotels decline to +receive guests except by previous written application, or by +direct introduction, and would rather be without those who would +regard the bill with economical scrutiny. The <i>dining</i> +hotels, such as the <i>London</i> and the <i>Freemasons’ +Tavern</i>, in London, the <i>Artichoke</i> and various whitebait +taverns at Blackwall, the <i>Trafalgar</i> and <i>Crown and +Sceptre</i> taverns at Greenwich, and the <i>Castle</i> and +<i>Star and Garter</i> taverns at Richmond, are costly taverns +for dining, rather than hotels at which visitors sojourn; and the +charges vary with every different degree of luxury in the viands +served, and the mode of serving. The hotels which can be +more easily tested, in reference to their charges, are the +<i>joint-stock</i> undertakings. These are of two kinds: +one, the hotels connected with the great railway termini, such as +the <i>Victoria</i>, the <i>Euston</i>, the <i>Great +Northern</i>, the <i>Great Western</i>, the <i>Grosvenor</i>, the +<i>Charing Cross</i>, the <i>Midland</i> and <i>Cannon +Street</i>; while the other group are unconnected with railways, +such as the <i>Westminster Palace</i>, the <i>Langham</i>, the +<i>Salisbury</i>, the <i>Inns of Court</i>, <i>Alexandra</i>, +<i>&c.</i></p> +<h2><a name="page9"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +9</span>COLLINS’<br /> +ILLUSTRATED GUIDE TO LONDON.</h2> +<p>Whether we consider London as the metropolis of a great and +mighty empire, upon the dominions of whose sovereign the sun +never sets, or as the home of more than three millions of people, +and the richest city in the world to boot, it must ever be a +place which strangers wish to visit. In these days of +railways and steamers, the toil and cost of reaching it are, +comparatively speaking, small; and, such being the case, the +supply of visitors has very naturally been adjusted to the +everyday increasing opportunities of gratifying so very sensible +a desire. To such persons, on their arrival at this vast +City of the Islands, we here, if they will accept us as their +guides, beg to offer, ere going into more minute details, a</p> +<h2>GENERAL DESCRIPTION.</h2> +<p>Without cumbering our narrative with the fables of dim +legendary lore, with regard to the origin of London—or +<i>Llyn-Din</i>, “the town on the lake,”—we may +mention, that the Romans, after conquering its ancient British +inhabitants, about <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 61, finally +rebuilt and walled it in about <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> +301; from which time it became, in such excellent hands, a place +of not a little importance. Roman remains, such as fine +tesselated pavements, bronzes, weapons, pottery, and coins, are +not seldom turned up by the spade of our sturdy excavators while +digging below the foundations of houses; and a few scanty +fragments of the old Roman Wall, which was rather more than three +miles round, are still to be seen. London, in the +Anglo-Norman times, though confined originally by the said wall, +grew up a dense mass of brick and wooden houses, ill arranged, +unclean, <a name="page10"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +10</span>close, and for the most part terribly +insalubrious. Pestilence was the natural consequence. +Up to the great plague of 1664–5, which destroyed 68,596, +some say 100,000 persons—there were, dating from the +pestilence of 1348, no fewer than some nine visitations of +widely-spreading epidemics in Old London. When, in 1666, +the great fire, which burnt 13,200 houses, spread its ruins over +436 acres, and laid waste 400 streets, came to force the Cockneys +to mend their ways somewhat, and open out their over-cramped +habitations, some good was effected. But, unfortunately, +during the rebuilding of the City, Sir Christopher Wren’s +plans for laying its streets out on a more regular plan, were +poorly attended to: hence the still incongruous condition of +older London when compared, in many instances, with the results +of modern architecture, with reference to air, light, and +sanitary arrangements. On account of the rubbish left by +the fire and other casualties, the City stands from twelve to +sixteen feet higher than it did in the early part of its +history—the roadways of Roman London, for example, being +found on, or even below, the level of the cellars of the present +houses.</p> +<p>From being a city hemmed within a wall, London expanded in all +directions, and thus gradually formed a connection with various +clusters of dwellings in the neighbourhood. It has, in +fact, absorbed towns and villages to a considerable distance +around: the chief of these once detached seats of population +being the city of Westminster. By means of bridges, it has +also absorbed Southwark and Bermondsey, Lambeth and Vauxhall, on +the south side of the Thames, besides many hamlets and villages +beyond the river.</p> +<p>By these extensions London proper, by which we mean the +<i>City</i>, has gradually assumed, if we may so speak, the +conditions of an existence like that of a kernel in a thickly +surrounding and ever-growing mass. By the census of 1861, +the population of the <i>City</i> was only 112,247; while +including that with the entire metropolis, the number was +2,803,034—or <i>twenty-five times</i> as great as the +former! It may here be remarked, that the population of the +<i>City</i> is becoming smaller every year, on account of the +substitution of public buildings, railway stations and viaducts, +and large warehouses, <a name="page11"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 11</span>in place of ordinary +dwelling-houses. Fewer and fewer people <i>live</i> in the +City. In 1851, the number was 127,869; it lessened by more +than 15,000 between that year and 1861; while the population of +the <i>whole</i> metropolis increased by as many as 440,000 in +the same space of time.</p> +<p>If we follow the Registrar-General, London, as defined by him, +extends north and south between Norwood and Hampstead, and east +and west between Hammersmith and Woolwich. Its area is +stated as 122 square miles. From the census returns of +1861, we find that its population then was 2,803,921 souls. +It was, in 1871, 3,251,804. The real <i>city</i> population +was 74,732.</p> +<p>The growth of London to its present enormous size may readily +be accounted for, when we reflect that for ages it has been the +capital of England, and the seat of her court and legislature; +that since the union with Scotland and Ireland, it has become a +centre for those two countries; and that, being the resort of the +nobility, landed gentry, and other families of opulence, it has +drawn a vast increase of population to minister to the tastes and +wants of those classes; while its fine natural position, lying as +it does on the banks of a great navigable river, some sixty miles +from the sea, and its generally salubrious site and +soil—the greater part of London is built on gravel, or on a +species of clay resting on sand—alike plead in its +favour.</p> +<p>At one time London, like ancient Babylon, might fairly have +been called a brick-built city. It is so, of course, still, +in some sense. But we are greatly improving: within the +last few years a large number of stucco-fronted houses, of +ornamental character, have been erected; and quite recently, many +wholly of stone, apart altogether from the more important public +buildings, which of course are of stone. Of distinct +houses, there are now the prodigious number of 500,000, having, +on an average, about 7.8 dwellers to a house. For our own +part we are somewhat sceptical as to this average. But we +quote it as given by a professedly good authority.</p> +<p>The Post-Office officials ascertained that there was built in +one year alone, as long ago as 1864, no fewer than 9,000 new +houses. <a name="page12"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +12</span>Though, by comparison with the houses of Edinburgh and +some other parts of the kingdom, many of these are small +structures, with but two rooms, often communicating, on a floor, +a visitor to London will find no difficulty in seeing acres of +substantial residences around him as he strolls along through the +wide, quiet squares of Bloomsbury, the stuccoed and more +aristocratic quarters of Belgravia and South Kensington, or by +the old family mansions of the nobility and gentry in, say, +Cavendish, Grosvenor, or Portman Squares, and the large and more +modern houses of many of our wealthy citizens in Tyburnia and +Westburnia, farther westward of the Marble Arch. But of +this more anon.</p> +<p>We have often heard foreigners laughingly remark of sundry +London houses—apropos of the deep, open, sunk areas, +bordered by iron railings, of many of them—that they +illustrate, in some sense, our English reserve, and love of +carrying out our island proverb—viz., that “every +Englishman’s house is his castle,”—in its +entirety, by each man barricading himself off from his neighbours +advances by a fortified <i>fosse</i>!</p> +<p>Without particular reference to municipal distinctions, London +may (to convey a general idea to strangers) be divided into four +principal portions—the <i>City</i>, which is the centre of +corporate influence, and where the greatest part of the business +is conducted; the <i>East End</i>, in which are the docks, and +various commercial arrangements for shipping; the <i>West +End</i>, in which are the palaces of the Queen and Royal family, +the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey, and the residences +of most of the nobility and gentry; and the <i>Southwark and +Lambeth</i> division, lying on the south side of the Thames, +containing many manufacturing establishments, but few public +buildings of interest. Besides these, the northern suburbs, +which include the once detached villages of Hampstead, Highgate, +Stoke Newington, Islington, Kingsland, Hackney, Hornsey, +Holloway, &c., and consist chiefly of private dwellings for +the mercantile and middle classes, may be considered a peculiar +and distinct division. It is, however, nowhere possible to +say (except when separated by the river) exactly where any one +division begins or ends; throughout the vast compass of the city +and <a name="page13"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +13</span>suburbs, there is a blending of one division with that +contiguous to it. The outskirts, on all sides, comprise +long rows or groups of villas, some detached or semi-detached, +with small lawns or gardens.</p> +<p>The poet Cowper, in his <i>Task</i>, more than a hundred years +ago, appreciatively spoke of</p> +<blockquote><p>“The villas with which London stands +begirt,<br /> +Like a swarth Indian with his belt of beads.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>We wonder what he would think now of the many houses of this +kind which extend, in some directions, so far out of town, that +there seems to be no getting beyond them into the country.</p> +<p>From the Surrey division there extends southward and westward +a great number of those ranges of neat private dwellings, as, for +instance, towards Camberwell, Kennington, Clapham, Brixton, +Dulwich, Norwood, Sydenham, &c.; and in these directions lie +some of the most pleasant spots in the environs of the +metropolis.</p> +<p>The flowing of the Thames from west to east through the +metropolis has given a general direction to the lines of street; +the principal thoroughfares being, in some measure, parallel to +the river, with the inferior, or at least shorter, streets +branching from them. Intersecting the town lengthwise, or +from east to west, are three great leading thoroughfares at a +short distance from each other, but gradually diverging at their +western extremity. One of these routes begins in the +eastern environs, near Blackwall, and extends along Whitechapel, +Leadenhall Street, Cornhill, the Poultry, Cheapside, Newgate +Street, Holborn, and Oxford Street. The other may be +considered as starting at London Bridge, and passing up King +William Street into Cheapside, at the western end of which it +makes a bend round St. Paul’s Churchyard; thence proceeds +down Ludgate Hill, along Fleet Street and the Strand to Charing +Cross, where it sends a branch off to the left to Whitehall, and +another diagonally to the right, up Cockspur Street; this leads +forward into Pall Mall, and sends an offshoot up Waterloo Place +into Piccadilly, which proceeds westward to Hyde Park +Corner. These two are the main lines in the metropolis, and +are among the first traversed by strangers. It will be +observed that they unite in Cheapside, which therefore becomes an +excessively crowded <a name="page14"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +14</span>thoroughfare, particularly at the busy hours of the +day. More than 1000 vehicles <i>per hour</i> pass through +this street in the business period of an average day, besides +foot-passengers! To ease the traffic in Cheapside, a +spacious new thoroughfare, New Cannon Street, has been opened, +from near London Bridge westward to St. Paul’s +Churchyard. The third main line of route is not so much +thronged, nor so interesting to strangers. It may be +considered as beginning at the Bank, and passing through the City +Road and the New Road to Paddington and Westbourne. The New +Road here mentioned has been re-named in three +sections—Pentonville Road, from Islington to King’s +Cross; Euston Road, from King’s Cross to Regent’s +Park; and Marylebone Road, from Regent’s Park to +Paddington. The main cross branches in the metropolis +are—Farringdon Street, leading from Blackfriars Bridge to +Holborn, and thence by Victoria Street to the King’s Cross +Station; the Haymarket, leading from Cockspur Street; and Regent +Street, already mentioned. There are several important +streets leading northward from the Holborn and Oxford Street +line—such as Portland Place, Tottenham Court Road, King +Street, and Gray’s Inn Lane. The principal one in the +east is St. Martin’s-le-Grand and Aldersgate Street, which, +by Goswell Street, lead to Islington; others +are—Bishopsgate Street, leading to Shoreditch and Hackney; +and Moorgate Street, leading northwards. A route stretching +somewhat north-east—Whitechapel and Mile End +Roads—connects the metropolis with Essex. It is a +matter of general complaint that there are so few great channels +of communication through London both lengthwise and crosswise; +for the inferior streets, independently of their complex +bearings, are much too narrow for regular traffic. But this +grievance, let us hope, is in a fair way of abatement, thanks to +sundry fine new streets, and to the Thames Embankment, which, +proceeding along the northern shore of the river, now furnishes a +splendid thoroughfare right away from Westminster Bridge to +Blackfriars Bridge, by means of which the public are now enabled +to arrive at the Mansion House by a wide street—called +Queen Victoria Street, and, by the Metropolitan District Railway, +to save time on this route from the west.</p> +<p><a name="page15"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 15</span>We +shall have occasion again to allude to the Thames Embankment some +pages on, and therefore, for the present, we will take</p> +<h2>A FIRST GLANCE AT THE CITY.</h2> +<p>London is too vast a place to be traversed in the limited time +which strangers usually have at their disposal. +Nevertheless, we may rapidly survey the main lines of route from +east to west, with some of the branching offshoots. All the +more important buildings, and places of public interest, will be +found specially described under the headings to which they +properly belong.</p> +<p>The most striking view in the interior of the city is at the +open central space whence Threadneedle Street, Cornhill, Lombard +Street, King William Street, Walbrook, Cheapside, and Princes +Street, radiate in seven different directions. (See +illustration.) While the corner of the Bank of England +abuts on this space on the north, it is flanked on the south by +the Mansion House, and on the east by the Royal Exchange. +It would be a curious speculation to inquire how much money has +been spent in constructions and reconstructions in and around +this spot during half a century. The sum must be +stupendous. Before new London Bridge was opened, the +present King William Street did not exist; to construct it, +houses by the score, perhaps by the hundred, had to be pulled +down. Many years earlier, when the Bank of England was +rebuilt, and a few years later, when the Royal Exchange was +rebuilt, vast destructions of property took place, to make room +for structures larger than those which had previously existed for +the same purposes. For some distance up all the radii of +which we have spoken, the arteries which lead from this heart of +the commercial world, a similar process has been going on to a +greater or less extent. Banking-houses, insurance-offices, +and commercial buildings, have been built or rebuilt at an +immense cost, the outlay depending rather on the rapidly +increasing value of the ground than on the actual charge for +building. If this particular portion of the city, this busy +centre of wealth, should ever be invaded by such railway schemes +as 1864, 1865, and 1866 produced, it is difficult to imagine what +amounts would have to be <a name="page16"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 16</span>paid for the purchase and removal of +property. Time was when a hundred thousand pounds per mile +was a frightful sum for railways; but railway directors (in +London at least) do not now look aghast at a million sterling per +mile—as witness the South-Eastern and the Chatham and Dover +Companies, concerning which we shall have to say more in a future +page.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p16b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Bank of England, Royal Exchange, Mansion House, &c. +(Cornhill, Lombard, Threadneedle Streets.)" +title= +"Bank of England, Royal Exchange, Mansion House, &c. +(Cornhill, Lombard, Threadneedle Streets.)" +src="images/p16s.jpg" /> +</a> <a name="citation16"></a><a href="#footnote16" +class="citation">[16]</a></p> +<p>The seven radii of which we have spoken may be thus briefly +described, as a preliminary guide to visitors: 1. Leaving +this wonderfully-busy centre by the north, with the Poultry on +one hand and the Bank of England on the other, we pass in front +of many fine new commercial buildings in Princes and Moorgate <a +name="page17"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 17</span>Streets; +indeed, there is not an old house here, for both are entirely +modern streets, penetrating through what used to be a close mass +of small streets and alleys. Other fine banking and +commercial buildings may be seen stretching along either side in +Lothbury and Gresham Streets. Farther towards the north, a +visitor would reach the Finsbury Square region, beyond which the +establishments are of less important character. 2. If, +instead of leaving this centre by the north, he turns north-east, +he will pass through Threadneedle Street between the Bank and the +Royal Exchange; +<a href="images/p17b.jpg"> +<img class='clearcenter' alt= +"King William Street, Gracechurch Street, &c. (Bank and +Royal Exchange in the distance.)" +title= +"King William Street, Gracechurch Street, &c. (Bank and +Royal Exchange in the distance.)" +src="images/p17s.jpg" /> +</a> next will be found the Stock Exchange, on the left hand; +then the Sun Fire Office, and the Bank of London (formerly the +Hall of Commerce); on the opposite side the City Bank, Merchant +Taylor’s School, and the building that was once the South +Sea House; beyond these is the great centre for foreign merchants +in Broad Street, Winchester Street, Austin Friars, and the +vicinity. 3. If, <a name="page18"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 18</span>again, the route be selected due +east, there will come into view the famous Cornhill, with its +Royal Exchange, its well-stored shops, and its alleys on either +side crowded with merchants, brokers, bankers, coffee-houses, and +chop-houses; beyond this, Bishopsgate Street branches out on the +left, and Gracechurch Street on the right, both full of memorials +of commercial London; and farther east still, Leadenhall Street, +with new buildings on the site of the late East India House, +leads to the Jews’ Quarter around Aldgate and +Houndsditch—a strange region, which few visitors to London +think of exploring. “Petticoat Lane,” perhaps +one of the most extraordinary marts for old clothes, &c., is +on the left of Aldgate High Street. It is well worth a +visit by connoisseurs of queer life and character, who are able +to take care of themselves, and remember to leave their valuables +at home. 4. The fourth route from the great city centre +leads through Lombard Street and Fenchurch Street—the one +the head-quarters of the great banking firms of London; the other +exhibiting many commercial buildings of late erection: while +Mincing Lane and Mark Lane are the head-quarters for many +branches of the foreign, colonial, and corn trades. 5. The +fifth route takes the visitor through King William Street to the +Monument, Fish Street Hill, Billingsgate, the Corn Exchange, the +Custom House, the Thames Subway, the Tower, the Docks, the Thames +Tunnel, London Bridge, and a host of interesting places, the +proper examination of which would require something more than +merely a brief visit to London. Opposite this quarter, on +the Surrey side of the river, are numerous shipping wharfs, +warehouses, porter breweries, and granaries. The fire that +occurred at Cotton’s wharf and depôt and other wharfs +near Tooley Street, in June, 1861, illustrated the vast scale on +which merchandise is collected in the warehouses and wharfs +hereabout. <a name="citation18"></a><a href="#footnote18" +class="citation">[18]</a> Of the dense mass of streets +lying away from <a name="page19"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +19</span>the river, and eastward of the city proper, comprising +Spitalfields, Bethnal Green, Whitechapel, Stepney, &c., +little need be said here; the population is immense, but, +excepting the Bethnal Green Museum and Victoria Park, there are +few objects interesting; nevertheless the observers of social +life in its humbler phases would find much to learn here. +6. The southern route from the great city centre takes the +visitor, by the side of the Mansion House, through the new +thoroughfare, Queen Victoria Street—referred to at a +previous page—to the river-side.</p> +<p>It will therefore be useful for a stranger to bear in mind, +that the best centre of observation in the city is the open spot +between the Bank, the Mansion House, and the Royal Exchange; +where more omnibuses assemble than at any other spot in the +world; and whence he can ramble in any one of seven different +directions, sure of meeting with something illustrative of city +life. The 7th route, not yet noticed, we will now follow, +as it proceeds towards the West End.</p> +<p>The great central thoroughfare of Cheapside, which is closely +lined with the shops of silversmiths and other wealthy tradesmen, +is one of the oldest and most famous streets in the +city—intimately associated with the municipal glories of +London for centuries past. Many of the houses in Cheapside +and Cornhill have lately been rebuilt on a scale of much +grandeur. Some small plots of ground in this vicinity have +been sold at the rate of nearly <i>one million sterling</i> per +acre! On each side of Cheapside, narrow streets diverge +into the dense mass behind—Ironmonger Lane, King Street, +Milk Street, and Wood Street, on the north; and among others, +Queen Street, Bread Street, where Milton was born, and where +stood the famous Mermaid Tavern, where Shakespeare and Raleigh, +Ben Jonson and his young friends, Beaumont and Fletcher, those +twin-dramatists, loved to meet, to enjoy “the feast of +reason and the flow of soul,” to say nothing of a few +flagons of good Canary wine, Bow Lane, and Old ’Change, on +the south. The greater part of these back streets, with the +lanes adjoining, are occupied by the offices or warehouses of +wholesale dealers in cloth, silk, hosiery, lace, &c., and are +resorted to by London and country shopkeepers for <a +name="page20"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +20</span>supplies. Across the north end of King Street +stands the Guildhall; and a little west, the City of London +School and Goldsmiths’ Hall. At the western end of +Cheapside is a statue of the late Sir Robert Peel, by +Behnes. Northward of this point, in St. +Martin’s-le-Grand, are the buildings of the Post and +Telegraph Offices; beyond this the curious old Charter House; and +then a line of business streets leading towards Islington. +Westward are two streets, parallel with each other, and both too +narrow for the trade to be accommodated in them—Newgate +Street, celebrated for its Blue Coat Boys and, till the recent +removal of the market to Smithfield, for its carcass butchers; +and Paternoster Row, still more celebrated for its publishers and +booksellers. In Panyer Alley, leading out of Newgate +Street, is an old stone bearing the inscription:</p> +<blockquote><p>When y<sup>e</sup> have sovgh<sup>t</sup> the +citty rovnd,<br /> +Yet stil this is the highs<sup>t</sup> grovnd.</p> +<p style="text-align: right">Avgvst the 27, 1688. <a +name="citation20"></a><a href="#footnote20" +class="citation">[20]</a></p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p20b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Old stone" +title= +"Old stone" +src="images/p20s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +</blockquote> +<p>At the west end of Newgate Street a turning to the right gives +access to the once celebrated Smithfield and St. John’s +Gate. South-west of Cheapside stands St. Paul’s +Cathedral, that first and greatest of all the landmarks of +London. In the immediate vicinity of St. Paul’s, the +names of many streets and lanes (Paternoster Row, Amen Corner, +Ave Maria Lane, Creed Lane, Godliman Street, &c.) give token +of their former connection with the religious structure and its +clerical attendants. The enclosed churchyard is surrounded +by a street closely hemmed in with houses, now chiefly dedicated +to trade: those on the south side being mostly wholesale, those +on the north retail. An open arched passage on the south +side of the churchyard leads to Doctors’ Commons, once the +headquarters of the ecclesiastical lawyers.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page21"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 21</span> +<a href="images/p21b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"St. Paul’s, West End of Cheapside, Paternoster Row, +&c. (Newgate Street and Fleet Street in the distance.)" +title= +"St. Paul’s, West End of Cheapside, Paternoster Row, +&c. (Newgate Street and Fleet Street in the distance.)" +src="images/p21s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Starting from St. Paul’s Churchyard westward, we proceed +down Ludgate Street and Ludgate Hill, places named from the old +Lud-gate, which once formed one of the entrances to the city +‘within the walls.’ The Old Bailey, on the +right, contains the Central Criminal Court and Newgate Prison, +noted places in connection with the trial and punishment of +criminals. On the left of Ludgate Hill is a maze of narrow +streets; among which the chief buildings are the new Ludgate Hill +Railway Station, Apothecaries’ Hall, and the printing +office of the all-powerful <i>Times</i> newspaper, in +Printing-House Square. The printer of the <i>Times</i>, Mr. +Goodlake, if applied to by letter, enclosing card of any +respectable person, will grant an order to go over it, at 11 +o’clock only, when the second edition of “the +Thunderer” is going to press. At the bottom of +Ludgate Hill we come to the valley in which the once celebrated +Fleet River, now only a covered sewer, ran north and <a +name="page22"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 22</span>south from +St. Pancras to Blackfriars, where it entered the Thames. A +new street, called Victoria Street, formed by pulling down many +poor and dilapidated houses, marks part of this valley; while +Farringdon Street, where a market, mostly for green stuff, is +held, occupies another part. Newgate Street and Ludgate +Hill are on the east of the Fleet Valley; Holborn and Fleet +Street on the west. The Holborn Valley Viaduct crosses at +this spot. And of this wonderful triumph of engineering +skill we have now to speak.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p22b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Holborn Valley Viaduct" +title= +"Holborn Valley Viaduct" +src="images/p22s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>It was an eventful day in the annals of the Corporation of the +City of London, when Queen Victoria, on November 6, 1869, +declared Blackfriars Bridge—about which more +hereafter—and Holborn Valley Viaduct formally open. +The Holborn Valley improvements, it should be remembered, were +nothing short of the actual demolition and reconstruction of a +whole district, formerly either squalid, over-blocked, and +dilapidated in some parts, or over-steep and dangerous to traffic +in others. But a short time ago that same Holborn Valley +was one of the most heart-breaking <a name="page23"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 23</span>impediments to horse-traffic in +London. Imagine Holborn Hill sloping at a gradient of 1 in +18, while the opposite rising ground of Skinner Street—now +happily done away—rose at about 1 in 20. Figure to +yourself the fact, that everything on wheels, and every foot +passenger entering the City by the Holborn route, had to descend +26 feet to the Valley of the Fleet, and then ascend a like number +to Newgate, and you will at once see the grand utility of +levelling up so objectionable a hollow. To attempt to give +a stranger to London even a faint idea of what has been +accomplished by Mr. Haywood’s engineering skill, by a +necessarily brief description here, is an invidious task. +Nevertheless, we must essay it; premising, by-the-by, that if our +readers while in London do not go to see the Viaduct for +themselves, our trouble will be three parte thrown away. +The whole structure is cellular, to begin with. To strip +the subject of crabbed technicalities, imagine for a moment a +long succession of—let us call them—railway-like +arches supporting the carriage-way: these large vaults being +available for other purposes. Outside this carriage-way, +and under the edge of the foot-paths on either side, is a subway, +some 7 feet wide and 11 feet or so high. Against the walls +of this sub-way are fixed, readily connectable, gas mains and +water mains and telegraph tubes. This was the first time +all these important pipes had been so cleverly arranged in one +easily accessible place. They are ventilated and partially +lighted through the pavement, and by gas. Under each +sub-way goes a sewer, with a path beside it for the sewer men +when at work. Outside the sub-way are ordinary house vaults +of two or three storeys high, according to the height of the +Viaduct. These are divided by transverse walls; and, when +houses are built against it, the Holborn Valley Viaduct will be +shut out from sight, except in the case of the simple iron girder +bridge over Shoe Lane, and the London, Chatham, and Dover bridge, +with its sub-ways for gas and water pipes, and the fine bridge +over Farringdon Street. You will, we trust, now see how +marvellously every yard of space has been utilized by the +engineer, from the roadway down to the very foundations. A +few words must now be said about the splendid bridge over +Farringdon Street. This has public staircases running <a +name="page24"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 24</span>up inside +handsome stone buildings—the upper parts of which have been +let for business purposes. It is a handsome skew bridge of +iron, toned to a deep bronze green by enamel paint, and richly +ornamented; its plinths above ground, its moulded bases, and its +shafts, are respectively of grey, black, and exquisitely polished +red granite. Its capitals are of grey granite, also +polished, and set off by bronze foliage. Bronze lions, and +four statues of Fine Art, Science, Commerce, and Agriculture, +stand on the parapet-line on handsome plinths. These, and +the projecting balconies and dormer window of the stone buildings +just named, with their four statues of bygone civic +worthies,—Fitz Aylwin, Sir William Walworth, Sir Thomas +Gresham, and Sir Hugh Myddleton,—enhance the effect of the +whole.</p> +<p>Poor Chatterton, “the marvellous boy, the sleepless soul +that perished in his pride,” after poisoning himself, in +1770, ere he was eighteen years of age, in Brooke Street, on the +north side of Holborn, was laid in a pauper’s grave, in +what was then the burying-ground of Shoe Lane Workhouse, and is +now converted to very different purposes.</p> +<p>Let us now come to Fleet Street. This +thoroughfare—the main artery from St. Paul’s to the +west—for many years has been emphatically one of literary +associations, full as it is of newspaper and +printing-offices. The late Angus B. Reach used humorously +to call it, “The march of intellect.” Wynkyn de +Worde, the early printer, lived here, and two of his books were +“fynysshed and emprynted in Flete Streete, in ye syne of ye +Sonne.” The <i>Devil</i> tavern, which stood near +Temple Bar, on the south side, was a favourite hostelrie of Ben +Jonson. At the <i>Mitre</i>, near Mitre Court, Dr. Johnson, +Goldsmith, and Boswell, held frequent rendezvous. The +<i>Cock</i> was one of the oldest and least altered taverns in +Fleet Street. The present poet-laureate, in one of his +early poems, “A Monologue of Will Waterproof,” has +immortalized it, in the lines beginning—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Thou plump head waiter at the +<i>Cock</i>,<br /> + To which I most resort,<br /> +How goes the time? Is ’t nine o’clock?<br /> + Then fetch a pint of port!”</p> +</blockquote> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page25"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 25</span> +<a href="images/p25b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Fleet Street from Mitre Court to Temple Bar. (The Temple, the +River, Lambeth, and Houses of Parliament in the distance.)" +title= +"Fleet Street from Mitre Court to Temple Bar. (The Temple, the +River, Lambeth, and Houses of Parliament in the distance.)" +src="images/p25s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Dr. Johnson lived many years either in Fleet Street, in Gough +Square, in the Temple, in Johnson’s Court, in Bolt Court, +&c., &c.; and in Bolt Court he died. William +Cobbett, and Ferguson the astronomer, were also among the +dwellers in that court. John Murray (the elder) began the +publishing business in Falcon Court. Some of the early +meetings of the Royal Society and of the Society of Arts took +place in Crane Court. Dryden and Richardson both lived in +Salisbury Court. Shire Lane (now Lower Serle’s +Place), close to Temple Bar on the north, can count the names of +Steele and Ashmole among its former inhabitants. Izaak +Walton lived a little way up Chancery Lane. At the +confectioner’s shop, nearly opposite that lane, Pope and +Warburton first met. Sir Symonds <a name="page26"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 26</span>D’Ewes, ‘Praise-God +Barebones,’ Michael Drayton, and Cowley the poet, all lived +in this street. Many of the courts, about a dozen in +number, branching out of Fleet Street on the north and south, are +so narrow that a stranger would miss them unless on the +alert. Child’s Banking House, the oldest in London, +is at the western extremity of Fleet Street, on the south side, +and also occupies the room over the arch of Temple Bar. St. +Bride’s Church exhibits one of Wren’s best +steeples. St. Dunstan’s Church, before it was +modernized, had two wooden giants in front, that struck the hours +with clubs on two bells—a duty which they still fulfil in +the gardens belonging to the mansion of the Marquis of Hertford +in the Regent’s Park. North of Fleet Street are +several of the <i>Inns of Court</i>, where lawyers congregate; +and southward is the most famous of all such Inns, the large +group of buildings constituting the <i>Temple</i>. In the +cluster of buildings lying east from the Temple once existed the +sanctuary of Whitefriars, or <i>Alsatia</i>, as it was sometimes +called, a description of which is given by Scott in the +<i>Fortunes of Nigel</i>. The streets here are still narrow +and of an inferior order, but all appearance of Alsatians and +their pranks is gone. The boundary of the city, at the +western termination of Fleet Street, is marked by Temple Bar, +consisting of a wide central archway, and a smaller archway at +each side for foot-passengers. There are doors in the main +avenue which can be shut at pleasure; but, practically, they are +never closed, except on the occasion of some state ceremonial, +when the lord mayor affects an act of grace in opening them to +royalty. The structure was designed by Sir Christopher +Wren, and erected in 1672. The heads of decapitated +criminals, after being boiled in pitch to preserve them, were +exposed on iron spikes on the top of the Bar. Horace +Walpole, in his <i>Letters</i> to Montague, mentions the fact of +a man in Fleet Street letting out “spy-glasses,” at a +penny a peep, to passers-by, when the heads of some of the +hapless Jacobites were so exposed. The last heads exhibited +there were those of two Jacobite gentlemen who took part in the +rebellion of 1745, and were executed in that year. Their +heads remained a ghastly spectacle to the citizens till 1772, +when they were blown down one night in a gale of wind.</p> +<p><a name="page27"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 27</span>Having +thus noticed some of the interesting objects east of Temple Bar, +we will now take</p> +<h2>A FIRST GLANCE AT THE WEST END.</h2> +<p>The Strand—so called because it lies along the bank of +the river, now hidden by houses—is a long, somewhat +irregularly built street, in continuation westward from Temple +Bar; the thoroughfare being incommoded by two churches—St. +Clement Dane’s and St. Mary’s—in the middle of +the road. On the site of the latter church once stood the +old Strand Maypole. The new <i>Palace of Justice</i>, about +whose site there have been so many Parliamentary discussions, +will stand on what is at present a huge unsightly space of +boarded-in waste ground, formerly occupied by a few good houses, +between Temple Bar and Clement’s Inn, and many wretched +back-slums. Not having the gift of prophecy as to its +future, and warned by so many long delays in its case, we hazard +no conjecture as to the time when it will gladden our eyes. +In the seventeenth century the Strand was a species of country +road, connecting the city with Westminster; and on its southern +side stood a number of noblemen’s residences, with gardens +towards the river. The pleasant days are long since past +when mansions and personages, political events and holiday +festivities, marked the spots now denoted by Essex, Norfolk, +Howard, Arundel, Surrey, Cecil, Salisbury, Buckingham, Villiers, +Craven, and Northumberland Streets—a very galaxy of +aristocratic names. The most conspicuous building on the +left-hand side is Somerset House, a vast range of government +offices. Adjoining this on the east (occupying the site +once intended for an east wing to that structure), and entering +by a passage from the Strand, is a range of rather plain, but +massive brick buildings, erected about thirty years ago for the +accommodation of King’s College; and adjoining it on the +west, abutting on the street leading to Waterloo Bridge, is a +still newer range of buildings appropriated to government +offices—forming a west wing to the whole mass. The +Strand contains no other public structure of architectural +importance, except the spacious new Charing Cross Railway Station +and Hotel on the south side. The eastern half of <a +name="page28"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 28</span>the Strand, +however, is thickly surrounded by theatres—Drury Lane, +Covent Garden, the Olympic, the Charing Cross, the Adelphi, the +Vaudeville, the Lyceum, the Gaiety (built on the site of Exeter +’Change and the late Strand Music Hall, as is the +Queen’s on that of St. Martin’s Hall in Long Acre), +the Globe, and the Strand Theatres, are all situated +hereabouts. Exeter Hall is close by, and—pardon the +contrast of ideas—so is Evans’s Hotel and Supper +Rooms, long famous for old English glees, madrigals, chops and +steaks, and as a place for friendly re-unions, without the +objectionable features of many musical halls.</p> +<p>Northumberland House, the large mansion with the lion on the +summit, overlooking Charing Cross, is the ancestral town +residence of the Percies, Dukes of Northumberland. Over the +way is St. Martin’s Church, where lie the bones of many +famous London watermen—the churchyard used to be called +“The Waterman’s Churchyard”—and those of +that too celebrated scoundrel and housebreaker, Jack Sheppard, +hanged in 1724. There also lies the once famous sculptor, +Roubilac, several monuments from whose chisel you can see in +Westminster Abbey. Here, too, are interred the witty, but +somewhat licentious dramatist, Farquhar, author of <i>The +Beau’s Stratagem</i>; the illustrious Robert Boyle, a +philosopher not altogether unworthy to be named in the same +category with Lord Bacon and Sir Isaac Newton; and John Hunter, +the distinguished anatomist.</p> +<p>The open space is called Charing Cross, from the old village +of Charing, where stood a cross erected by Edward the First, in +memory of his Queen Eleanor. Wherever her bier rested, +there her sorrowful husband erected a cross, or, as Hood +whimsically said, in his usual punning vein, apropos of the cross +at Tottenham,</p> +<blockquote><p>“A Royal game of Fox and Goose<br /> + To play for such a loss;<br /> +Wherever she put down her orts,<br /> + There he—set up a <i>cross</i>!”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>At the time of the Reformation you could have walked with +fields all the way on the north side of you from the city to +Charing Cross. The history of the fine statue of Charles +the First, by Le Sœur, is <a name="page29"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 29</span>curious. It was made in Charles +the First’s reign, but, on the civil war breaking out ere +it could be erected, was sold by the Parliament to a brazier, who +was ordered to demolish it. He, however, buried it, and it +remained underground till after the Restoration, when it was +erected in 1674. It marks a central point for the West +End.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p29b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Trafalgar Square" +title= +"Trafalgar Square" +src="images/p29s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Southward are Whitehall and the Palace of Westminster; to the +west, Spring Gardens, leading into St. James’s Park; +north-west lie Pall Mall and Regent Street. By-the-way, it +just occurs to us that the old game <i>Paille Maille</i>, from +which Pall Mall took its name, was a sort of antique forerunner +of croquet! The former game, much beloved by Charles the +Second, was played by striking a wooden ball with a mallet +through hoops of iron, one of which stood at each end of an +alley. Eastward is the Strand. On the north, +Trafalgar Square, with Nelson’s statue and Landseer’s +four noble lions couchant—which alone are worth a +visit—at its base. There are also statues to George +IV., Sir Charles James Napier, <a name="page30"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 30</span>and Sir Henry Havelock. A +statue of George the Third—with, we think, in an equestrian +sense, one of the best “seats” for a horseman in +London—is close by. The National Gallery bounds the +northern side. Of the two wells which supply the fountains +in this square, one is no less than 400 feet deep.</p> +<p>Turning southward from this important western centre, the +visitor will come upon the range of national and government +buildings—the Admiralty, the Horse Guards, the Treasury, +the Home Office, &c., &c.—in Whitehall, particulars +of which will be given a few pages further on under <i>Government +Offices</i>. Then there are the fine Banqueting House at +Whitehall, and some rather majestic mansions in and near +Whitehall Gardens—especially one just erected by the Duke +of Buccleuch. Beyond these, in the same general direction, +are the magnificent Houses of Parliament, Marochetti’s +equestrian statue of Richard Cœur de Lion, Westminster +Abbey, Westminster Hall, Mr. Page’s beautiful new +Westminster Bridge, and a number of other objects well worthy of +attention.</p> +<p>Returning to Charing Cross, the stranger may pursue his tour +through Cockspur Street to Pall Mall, and thence proceed up +Regent Street. As he enters this new line of route, he will +perceive that the buildings assume a more important aspect. +They are for the most part stucco-fronted, and being frequently +re-painted, they have a light and cheerful appearance. In +the Haymarket are Her Majesty’s Theatre and the Haymarket +Theatre; and near at hand are many club-houses and +Exhibition-rooms. Pall Mall displays a range of +stone-fronted club-houses of great magnificence. At the +foot of Regent Street is the short broad thoroughfare of Waterloo +Place, lined with noble houses, and leading southwards to St. +James’s Park. Here stands the column dedicated to the +late Duke of York; not far from which is the Guards’ +Memorial, having reference to troops who fell in the +Crimea. From this point, for about a mile in a northerly +direction, is the line of Waterloo Place, Regent Street, and +Portland Place, forming the handsomest street in London. At +a point a short way up we cross Piccadilly, and enter a curve in +the thoroughfare, called the Quadrant; at the corners of which, +and also in Upper Regent Street, are some of the <a +name="page31"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 31</span>most splendid +shops in London, several being decorated in a style of great +magnificence. Regent Street, during the busy season in May +and June, and during the day from one till six o’clock, +exhibits an extraordinary concourse of fashionable vehicles and +foot-passengers; while groups of carriages are drawn up at the +doors of the more elegant shops. Towards its upper +extremity Regent Street crosses Oxford Street. The mass of +streets west from it consist almost entirely of private +residences, with the special exception of Bond Street. In +this quarter are St. James’s, Hanover, Berkeley, Grosvenor, +Cavendish, Bryanstone, Manchester, and Portman Squares—the +last four being north of Oxford Street; and in connection with +these squares are long, quiet streets, lined with houses suited +for an affluent order of inhabitants. In and north from +Oxford Street, there are few public buildings deserving +particular attention; but a visitor may like to know that +hereabouts are the Soho, Baker Street, and London Crystal Palace +Bazaars. The once well-known Pantheon is now a wine +merchant’s stores.</p> +<p>The residences of the nobility and gentry are chiefly, as has +been said, in the western part of the metropolis. In this +quarter there have been large additions of handsome streets, +squares, and terraces within the last thirty years. First +may be mentioned the district around Belgrave Square, usually +called <i>Belgravia</i>, which includes the highest class +houses. North-east from this, near Hyde Park, is the older, +but still fashionable quarter, comprehending Park Lane and May +Fair. Still farther north is the modern district, sometimes +called <i>Tyburnia</i>, being built on the ground adjacent to +what once was “Tyburn,” the place of public +executions. This district, including Hyde Park Square and +Westbourne Terrace, is a favourite place of residence for city +merchants and other wealthy persons. Lying north and +north-east from Tyburnia are an extensive series of suburban rows +of buildings and detached villas, which are ordinarily spoken of +under the collective name St. John’s Wood: Regent’s +Park forming a kind of rural centre to the group. Standing +higher and more airy than Belgravia, and being easily accessible +from Oxford Street, this is one of the most agreeable of the +suburban districts.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page32"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 32</span> +<a href="images/p32b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Bunyan’s Tomb, Bunhill Fields" +title= +"Bunyan’s Tomb, Bunhill Fields" +src="images/p32s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>If, instead of the Strand and Piccadilly route, or the Holborn +and Oxford Street route, a visitor takes the northernmost main +route, he will find less to interest him. The New Road, in +its several parts of City Road, Pentonville Road, Euston Road, +and Marylebone Road, forms a broad line of communication from the +city to Paddington, four miles in length. Though very +important as one of the arteries of the metropolis, it is +singularly deficient in public buildings. In going from the +Bank to Paddington, we pass by or near Finsbury Square and +Circus, the buildings and grounds of the Artillery Company at +Moorfields, the once famous old Burial-ground at Bunhill Fields, +St. Luke’s Lunatic Asylum, the Chapel in the City Road +associated with the memory of John Wesley, the old works of the +New River Company at Pentonville, the Railway stations at +King’s Cross (Great Northern), and St. Pancras +(Midland),—the vast span of this station’s roof is +noteworthy,—and Euston Square (L. and N. Western), several +stations <a name="page33"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +33</span>of the Metropolitan Underground Railway, St. Pancras and +Marylebone churches, and the entrance to the beautiful +Regent’s Park. But beyond these little is presented +to reward the pedestrian.</p> +<p>It is well for a visitor to bear in mind, however, that all +the routes we have here sketched have undergone, or are +undergoing, rapid changes, owing chiefly to the wonderful +extension of railways. Cannon Street, Finsbury, +Blackfriars, Snow Hill, Ludgate Hill, Smithfield, Charing Cross, +Pimlico, &c., have been stripped of hundreds, nay, thousands +of houses.</p> +<h2>PALACES AND MANSIONS, ROYAL AND NOBLE.</h2> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p33b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"St. James’s Palace and Park. (Green Park in the +distance.)" +title= +"St. James’s Palace and Park. (Green Park in the +distance.)" +src="images/p33s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>These two preliminary glances at the City and the West End +having (as we will suppose) given the visitor some general idea +of the Metropolis, we now proceed to describe the chief buildings +<a name="page34"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 34</span>and places +of interest, conveniently grouped according to their +character—beginning with <i>Palatial Residences</i>.</p> +<p><b>St. James’s Palace</b>.—This is an inelegant +brick structure, having its front towards Pall Mall. Henry +VIII. built it in 1530, on the site of what was once an hospital +for lepers. The interior consists of several spacious +levée and drawing rooms, besides other state and domestic +apartments. This palace is only used occasionally by the +Queen for levées and drawing-rooms; for which purposes, +notwithstanding its awkwardness, the building is better adapted +than Buckingham Palace. The fine bands of the Foot Guards +play daily at eleven, in the Colour Court, or in an open +quadrangle on the east side. The Chapel Royal and the +German Chapel are open on Sundays—the one with an English +service, and the other with service in German.</p> +<p><b>Buckingham Palace</b>.—This edifice stands at the +west end of the Mall in St. James’s Park, in a situation +much too low in reference to the adjacent grounds on the +north. The site was occupied formerly by a brick mansion, +which was pulled down by order of George IV. The present +palace (except the front towards the park) was planned and +erected by Mr. Nash. When completed, after various +capricious alterations, about 1831–2, it is said to have +cost about £700,000. The edifice is of stone, with a +main centre, and a wing of similar architecture projecting on +each side, forming originally an open court in front; but the +palace being too small for the family and retinue of the present +sovereign, a new frontage has been built, forming an eastern side +to the open court. There is, however, little harmony of +style between the old and new portions. The interior +contains many magnificent apartments, both for state and domestic +purposes. Among them are the Grand Staircase, the +Ball-room, the Library, the Sculpture Gallery, the Green +Drawing-room, the Throne Room, and the Grand Saloon. The +Queen has a collection of very fine pictures in the various +rooms, among which is a <i>Rembrandt</i>, for which George IV. +gave 5000 guineas. In the garden is an elegant +summer-house, adorned with frescoes by Eastlake, Maclise, +Landseer, Stanfield, and other distinguished painters. This +costly palace, however, with all its <a name="page35"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 35</span>grandeur, was so badly planned, that +in a number of the passages lamps are required to be kept lighted +even during the day. Strangers are not admitted to +Buckingham Palace except by special permission of the Lord +Chamberlain, which is not easily obtained. In the front was +once the <i>Marble Arch</i>, which formed an entry to the Palace, +and which cost £70,000; but it was removed to the +north-east corner of Hyde Park in 1851.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p35b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Buckingham Palace, and West End of St. James’s Park. +(Queen’s Garden and Hyde Park Corner in the distance.)" +title= +"Buckingham Palace, and West End of St. James’s Park. +(Queen’s Garden and Hyde Park Corner in the distance.)" +src="images/p35s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><b>Marlborough House</b>.—This building, the residence +of the Prince and Princess of Wales, is immediately east of St. +James’s Palace, being separated from it only by a +carriage-road. It was built by Sir Christopher Wren, in +1709, as a residence for the great Duke <a +name="page36"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 36</span>of +Marlborough. The house was bought from the Marlborough +family by the Crown in 1817, as a residence for the Princess +Charlotte. It was afterwards occupied in succession by +Leopold (the late king of the Belgians) and the Dowager Queen +Adelaide. More recently it was given up to the Government +School of Design; and the Vernon and Turner pictures were for +some time kept there. The building underwent various +alterations preparatory to its occupation by the Prince of +Wales.</p> +<p><b>Kensington Palace</b>.—This is a royal palace, though +no longer inhabited by royalty, occupying a pleasant situation +west of Hyde Park. It was built by Lord Chancellor Finch +late in the 17th century; and soon afterwards sold to William +III. Additions were made to it from time to time. +Certain portions of the exterior are regarded as fine specimens +of brickwork; and the whole, though somewhat heavy in appearance, +is not without points of interest. During the last century +Kensington Palace was constantly occupied by members of the royal +family. Many of them were born there, and many died there +also. The present Queen was born in the palace in +1819. The Prince and Princess of Teck reside there at +present. This, like the other royal palaces, is maintained +at the expense of the nation; though not now used as a royal +residence, pensioned or favoured families occupy it.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p37ab.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Lambeth Palace from the River" +title= +"Lambeth Palace from the River" +src="images/p37as.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><b>Lambeth Palace</b>.—This curious and interesting +building, situated in a part of the metropolis seldom visited by +strangers, is the official residence of the archbishops of +Canterbury. It is on the south bank of the Thames, between +Westminster and Vauxhall Bridges. The structure has grown +up by degrees during the six centuries that Lambeth has been the +archiepiscopal residence; and on that account exhibits great +diversities of style. Leaving unnoticed the private and +domestic apartments, the following are the portions of the +irregular cluster possessing most interest. The +<i>Chapel</i>, some say, was erected in the year 1196; it is in +early English, with lancet windows and a crypt; but the roof, +stained windows, and carved screens, are much more recent. +The archbishops are always consecrated in this chapel. The +<i>Lollard’s Tower</i>, at the western end of the chapel, +was named from some Lollards or Wickliffites supposed <a +name="page37"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 37</span>to have been +imprisoned there. It is about 400 years old. The +uppermost room, with strong iron rings in the walls, appears to +<a name="page38"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 38</span>have been +the actual place of confinement; there are many names and +inscriptions cut in the thick oak wainscoting. The +<i>Hall</i>, about 200 years old, is 93 feet long by 78 feet +wide; it is noticeable for the oak roof, the bay windows, and the +arms of several of the archbishops. The <i>Library</i>, 250 +years old, contains about 15,000 volumes and numerous +manuscripts, many of them rare and curious. The +<i>Gatehouse</i> is a red brick structure, with stone +dressings. The <i>Church</i>, near it, is one of the most +ancient in the neighbourhood of London; it has been recently +restored in good taste. Simon of Sudbury, Archbishop of +Canterbury, was murdered here, in 1381, by Wat Tyler’s mob, +who stormed the palace, burned its contents, and destroyed all +the registers and public papers. Lambeth Palace is not, as +a rule, shewn to strangers.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p37bb.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Lambeth Palace—Lollard’s Tower" +title= +"Lambeth Palace—Lollard’s Tower" +src="images/p37bs.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><b>Mansions of the Nobility</b>.—London is not well +supplied with noble mansions of an attractive character; they +possess every comfort interiorly, but only a few of them have +architectural pretensions. <i>Northumberland House</i>, +lately alluded to, at the Charing Cross extremity of the south +side of the Strand, looks more like a nobleman’s mansion +than most others in London. It was built, in about 1600, by +the Earl of Northampton, and came into the hands of the Percies +in 1642. <i>Stafford House</i> is perhaps the most finely +situated mansion in the metropolis, occupying the corner of St. +James’s and the Green Parks, and presenting four complete +fronts, each having its own architectural character. The +interior, too, is said to be the first of its kind in +London. The mansion was built by the Duke of York, with +money lent by the Marquis of Stafford, afterwards Duke of +Sutherland; but the Stafford family became owners of it, and have +spent at least a quarter of a million sterling on the house and +its decorations. <i>Apsley House</i>, at the corner of +Piccadilly and Hyde Park, is the residence of the Dukes of +Wellington, and is closely associated with the memory of +<i>the</i> Duke. The shell of the house, of brick, is old; +but stone frontages, enlargements, and decorations, were +afterwards made. The principal room facing Hyde Park, with +seven windows, is that in which the Great Duke held the +celebrated Waterloo Banquet, on the 18th of June in every year, +from 1816 to 1852. <a name="page39"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 39</span>The windows were blocked up with +bullet-proof iron blinds from 1831 to the day of his death in +1852; a rabble had shattered them during the Reform excitement, +and he never afterwards would trust King Mob. +<a href="images/p39b.jpg"> +<img class='clearcenter' alt= +"Apsley House, Hyde Park Corner, Wellington Statue. +(Knightsbridge and Sloane Street in the distance.)" +title= +"Apsley House, Hyde Park Corner, Wellington Statue. +(Knightsbridge and Sloane Street in the distance.)" +src="images/p39s.jpg" /> +</a><i>Devonshire House</i>, in Piccadilly, faces the Green Park, +and has a screen in front. It has no particular +architectural character; but the wealthy Dukes of Devonshire have +collected within it valuable pictures, books, gems, and treasures +of various kinds. <i>Grosvenor House</i>, the residence of +the Marquis of Westminster, is situated in Upper Grosvenor +Street, and is celebrated for the magnificent collection of +pictures known as the <i>Grosvenor Gallery</i>; <a +name="page40"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 40</span>a set of four +of these pictures, by Rubens, cost £10,000. +<i>Bridgewater House</i>, facing the Green Park, is a costly +modern structure, built by Sir Charles Barry for the Earl of +Ellesmere, and finished in 1851. It is in the Italian +Palazzo style. Its chief attraction is the magnificent +<i>Bridgewater Gallery</i> of pictures, a most rare and choice +assemblage. This gallery contains no fewer than 320 +pictures, valued at £150,000 many years ago—though +they would now, doubtless, sell for a much higher sum. <a +name="citation40"></a><a href="#footnote40" +class="citation">[40]</a> <i>Holland House</i>, Kensington, +is certainly the most picturesque mansion in the metropolis; it +has an old English look about it, both in the house and its +grounds. The mansion was built in 1607, and was celebrated +as being the residence, at one time of Addison, at another of the +late Lord Holland. The stone gateway on the east of the +house was designed by Inigo Jones. <i>Chesterfield +House</i>, in South Audley Street, was built for that Earl of +Chesterfield whose “Advice to his Son” has run +through so many editions; the library and the garden are +especially noted. <i>Buccleuch House</i>, in Whitehall +Gardens, is recently finished. <i>Lansdowne House</i>, in +Berkeley Square, the town residence of the Marquis of Lansdowne, +contains some fine sculptures and pictures, ancient and +modern. Scarcely less magnificent, either as buildings or +in respect of their contents, than the mansions of the nobility, +are some of those belonging to wealthy commoners—such as +Mr. Holford’s, a splendid structure in Park Lane; Mr. +Hope’s, in Piccadilly, now the <i>Junior Athenæum +Club</i>; and Baron Rothschild’s, near Apsley House, lately +rebuilt.</p> +<h2>HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT; WESTMINSTER HALL; GOVERNMENT +OFFICES.</h2> +<p><b>Houses of Parliament</b>.—This is the name usually +given to the <i>New Palace of Westminster</i>, which is not only +Sir Charles Barry’s greatest work, but is in all respects +one of the most remarkable structures of the age. The +building, which occupies a site close to <a +name="page41"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 41</span>the river, +and close also to the beautiful new Westminster Bridge, was +constructed in consequence of the burning of the old Houses of +Parliament in 1834. It is perhaps the finest modern Gothic +structure in the world—at least for civil purposes; but is +unfortunately composed of a stone liable to decay; and, to be +critical, its ornaments and details generally are on too minute a +scale for the magnitude of the building. The entire +structure covers nearly eight acres. +<a href="images/p41b.jpg"> +<img class='clearcenter' alt= +"Houses of Parliament from the River" +title= +"Houses of Parliament from the River" +src="images/p41s.jpg" /> +</a>Certain old plain law courts on the north are intended to be +removed. The chief public entrance is by Westminster Hall, +which forms a vestibule to the Houses of Parliament and their +numerous committee-rooms. The rooms and staircases are +almost inconceivably numerous; and there are said to be two miles +of passages and corridors! The river front, raised upon a +fine terrace of Aberdeen granite, is 900 feet in length, and +profusely adorned with statues, heraldic shields, and tracery, +carved in stone. The other façades are nearly as +elaborate, but are not so well seen. It is a gorgeous +structure, which, so long ago as 1859, had cost over two +millions. A further cost of £107,000, for frescoes, +statuary, <a name="page42"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +42</span>&c., &c., had been incurred by the end of March, +1860; and the constant outgoings for maintenance of the fabric, +and additions thereto, must every year represent a heavy +sum. Nevertheless, the two main chambers in which +Parliament meets are ill adapted for sight and hearing. On +Saturdays, both Houses can be seen free, by order from the Lord +Chamberlain, easily obtained at a neighbouring office; and +certain corridors and chambers are open on other days of the +week. Admission to the sittings of the two Houses can only +be obtained by members’ orders; as the benches appropriated +in this way are few in number, such admissions are highly prized, +especially when any important debate is expected. On the +occasion when the Queen visits the House of Lords, to open or +prorogue Parliament, visitors are only admitted by special +arrangements.</p> +<p>Among the multitude of interesting objects in this stupendous +structure, the following may be briefly mentioned. The +<i>House of Peers</i> is 97 feet long, 45 wide, and 45 +high. It is so profusely painted and gilt, and the windows +are so darkened by deep-tinted stained glass, that the eye can +with difficulty make out the details. At the southern end +is the gorgeously gilt and canopied throne; near the centre is +the woolsack, on which the Lord Chancellor sits; at the end and +sides are galleries for peeresses, reporters, and strangers; and +on the floor of the house are the cushioned benches for the +peers. At either end are three frescoes—three behind +the throne, and three over the strangers’ gallery. +The three behind the throne are—“Edward III. +conferring the Order of the Garter on the Black Prince,” by +C. W. Cope; “The Baptism of Ethelbert,” by Dyce; and +“Henry Prince of Wales committed to Prison for assaulting +Judge Gascoigne,” by C. W. Cope. The three at the +other end are—“The Spirit of Justice,” by D. +Maclise; “The Spirit of Chivalry,” by the same; and +“The Spirit of Religion,” by J. C. Horsley. In +niches between the windows and at the ends are eighteen statues +of Barons who signed Magna Charta. The <i>House of +Commons</i>, 62 feet long, 45 broad, and 45 high, is much less +elaborate than the House of Peers. The Speaker’s +Chair is at the north end; and there are galleries along the +sides and ends. In a gallery behind <a +name="page43"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 43</span>the Speaker +the reporters for the newspapers sit. Over them is the +Ladies’ Gallery, where the view is ungallantly obstructed +by a grating. The present ceiling is many feet below the +original one: the room having been to this extent spoiled because +the former proportions were bad for hearing.</p> +<p>Strangers might infer, from the name, that these two chambers, +the Houses of Peers and of Commons, constitute nearly the whole +building; but, in truth, they occupy only a small part of the +area. On the side nearest to Westminster Abbey are <i>St. +Stephen’s Porch</i>, <i>St. Stephen’s Corridor</i>, +the <i>Chancellor’s Corridor</i>, the <i>Victoria +Tower</i>, the <i>Royal Staircase</i>, and numerous courts and +corridors. At the south end, nearest Millbank, are the +<i>Guard Room</i>, the <i>Queen’s Robing Room</i>, the +<i>Royal Gallery</i>, the <i>Royal Court</i>, and the +<i>Prince’s Chamber</i>. The river front is mostly +occupied by <i>Libraries</i> and <i>Committee Rooms</i>. +The northern or Bridge Street end displays the <i>Clock Tower</i> +and the <i>Speaker’s Residence</i>. In the interior +of the structure are vast numbers of <i>lobbies</i>, +<i>corridors</i>, <i>halls</i>, and <i>courts</i>. The +Saturday tickets, already mentioned, admit visitors to the +<i>Prince’s Chamber</i>, the <i>House of Peers</i>, the +<i>Peers’ Lobby</i>, the <i>Peers’ Corridor</i>, the +<i>Octagonal Hall</i>, the <i>Commons’ Corridor</i>, the +<i>Commons’ Lobby</i>, the <i>House of Commons</i>, <i>St. +Stephen’s Hall</i>, and <i>St. Stephen’s +Porch</i>. All these places are crowded with rich +adornments. The <i>Victoria Tower</i>, at the south-west +angle of the entire structure, is one of the finest in the world: +it is 75 feet square and 340 feet high; the Queen’s state +entrance is in a noble arch at the base. The <i>Clock +Tower</i>, at the north end, is 40 feet square and 320 feet high, +profusely gilt near the top. After two attempts made to +supply this tower with a bell of 14 tons weight, and after both +failed, one of the so-called ‘Big Bens,’ the weight +of which is about 8 tons, (the official name being ‘St. +Stephen,’) now tells the hour in deep tones. There +are, likewise, eight smaller bells to chime the quarters. +The <i>Clock</i> is by far the largest and finest in this +country. There are four dials on the four faces of the +tower, each 22½ feet in diameter; the hour-figures are 2 +feet high and 6 feet apart; the minute-marks are 14 inches apart; +the hands weigh more than 2 cwt. the pair; the minute-hand is 16 +feet long, and the hour-hand <a name="page44"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 44</span>9 feet; the pendulum is 15 feet long, +and weighs 680 lbs.; the weights hang down a shaft 160 feet +deep. Besides this fine Clock Tower, there is a <i>Central +Tower</i>, over the Octagonal Hall, rising to a height of 300 +feet; and there are smaller towers for ventilation and other +purposes.</p> +<p>Considering that there are nearly 500 carved stone statues in +and about this sumptuous building, besides stained-glass windows, +and oil and fresco paintings in great number, it is obvious that +a volume would be required to describe them all. In the +<i>Queen’s Robing Room</i> are painted frescoes from the +story of King Arthur; and in the <i>Peers’ Robing Room</i>, +subjects from Biblical history. The <i>Royal Gallery</i> is +in the course of being filled with frescoes and stained windows +illustrative of English history. Here, among others, +specially note the late D. Maclise’s stupendous fresco, 45 +feet long by 12 feet high, representing “The Meeting of +Wellington and Blucher after the Battle of Waterloo;” and +the companion fresco, “The Death of Nelson.”</p> +<p><b>Westminster Hall</b>.—Although now made, in a most +ingenious manner, to form part of the sumptuous edifice just +described, <i>Westminster Hall</i> is really a distinct +building. It was the old hall of the original palace of +Westminster, built in the time of William Rufus, but partly +re-constructed in 1398. The carved timber roof is regarded +as one of the finest in England. The hall is 290 feet long, +68 wide, and 110 high. There are very few buildings in the +world so large as this unsupported by pillars. The southern +end, both within and without, has been admirably brought into +harmony with the general architecture of the Palace of +Parliament. Doors on the east side lead to the House of +Commons; doors on the west lead to the <i>Courts of Chancery</i>, +<i>Queen’s Bench</i>, <i>Common Pleas</i>, +<i>Exchequer</i>, <i>Probate</i>, <i>and Divorce</i>, +&c. No building in England is richer in associations +with events relating to kings, queens, and princes, than +Westminster Hall. <i>St. Stephen’s Crypt</i>, lately +restored with great splendour, is entered from the south end of +the Hall.</p> +<p><b>Somerset House</b>, in the Strand, was built in 1549 by the +Protector Somerset; and, on his attainder and execution, fell to +the Crown. <a name="page45"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +45</span>Old Somerset House was pulled down in 1775, and the +present building erected in 1780, after the designs of Sir Wm. +Chambers. The rear of the building faces the Thames, its +river frontage being 600 feet long, and an excellent specimen of +Palladian architecture. In Somerset House are several +Government offices—among the rest, a branch of the +Admiralty, the Inland Revenue, and the Registrar-General’s +department. More than 900 clerks are employed in the +various offices. The rooms in which Newspaper Stamps are +produced by ingenious processes, and those in which the +Registrar-General keeps his voluminous returns of births, +marriages, and deaths, are full of interest; but they are not +accessible for mere curiosity. The learned Societies are +removed to Burlington House, Piccadilly.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p45b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Somerset House, King’s College, Waterloo Bridge, &c. +(St. Clement’s and St. Mary’s Churches in the +distance.)" +title= +"Somerset House, King’s College, Waterloo Bridge, &c. +(St. Clement’s and St. Mary’s Churches in the +distance.)" +src="images/p45s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><b>Government Offices</b>.—A few words will suffice for +the other <a name="page46"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +46</span>West-End Government offices. The <i>Admiralty</i>, +in Whitehall, is the head-quarters of the Naval Department. +The front of the building was constructed about 1726; and the +screen, by the brothers Adam, about half-a-century later. +Most of the heads of the Admiralty have official residences +connected with the building. The <i>Horse Guards</i>, a +little farther down Whitehall, is the head-quarters of the +commander-in-chief. It was built about 1753, and has an +arched entrance leading into St. James’s Park. +<a href="images/p46b.jpg"> +<img class='clearcenter' alt= +"Whitehall, Horse Guards, Government Offices, &c. +(Westminster Abbey and Houses of Parliament in the distance.)" +title= +"Whitehall, Horse Guards, Government Offices, &c. +(Westminster Abbey and Houses of Parliament in the distance.)" +src="images/p46s.jpg" /> +</a> The two cavalry sentries, belonging either to the Life +Guards or to the Oxford Blues, always attract the notice of +country visitors, to whom such showy horsemen are a rarity. +The <i>Treasury</i>, the <i>Office of the </i><a +name="page47"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 47</span><i>Chancellor +of the Exchequer</i>, the <i>Home Office</i>, the +<i>Privy-council Office</i>, and the <i>Board of Trade</i>, +together occupy the handsome range of buildings at the corner of +Whitehall and Downing Street. The interior of this building +is in great part old; after many alterations and additions, the +present front, in the Italian Palazzo style, was built by Sir +Charles Barry in 1847. The <i>Foreign Office</i>, the +<i>India Office</i>, and the <i>Colonial Office</i>, occupy the +handsome new buildings southward of Downing Street. The +<i>War Office</i> in Pall Mall is a makeshift arrangement: it +occupies the old quarters of the Ordnance Office, and some +private houses converted to public use. After many +discussions as to architectural designs, &c., the so-called +“Battle of the Styles” ended in a compromise: the +Gothic architect (Mr. G. G. Scott, R.A.) was employed; but an +Italian design was adopted for the new Foreign and India +Offices.</p> +<h2>ST. PAUL’S; WESTMINSTER ABBEY; CHURCHES; CHAPELS; +CEMETERIES.</h2> +<p><b>St. Paul’s Cathedral</b>.—This is the most +prominent object in the metropolis. The lofty dome, seen +for miles around, stands in the centre of an enclosed churchyard +of limited dimensions, at the head of Ludgate Hill. A +church is said to have existed here four hundred years before the +Norman conquest; and, under various shapes and extensions, it +remained till destroyed by the Great Fire of London in +1666. An entirely new edifice was then erected in its +stead, the important work being committed to Sir Christopher +Wren. It was opened for divine service in 1697, and +finished in 1710—one architect and one master-mason having +been engaged on it for 35 years. <a name="citation47a"></a><a +href="#footnote47a" class="citation">[47a]</a> The +cathedral is built in the form of a cross, 514 feet in length by +286 in breadth. <a name="citation47b"></a><a href="#footnote47b" +class="citation">[47b]</a> Outwardly, the <a +name="page48"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 48</span>walls, which +have a dark sooty appearance, except where bleached by the +weather, exhibit a double range of windows. There are three +porticos at as many entrances on the north, west, and +south. That on the west is the principal, with twelve lofty +Corinthian pillars below, and a second order carrying the +pediment above; the angles are crowned with handsome bell-towers, +much larger than ordinary church steeples, and 222 feet +high. +<a href="images/p48b.jpg"> +<img class='clearcenter' alt= +"St. Paul’s Cathedral and Churchyard, from Ludgate Hill" +title= +"St. Paul’s Cathedral and Churchyard, from Ludgate Hill" +src="images/p48s.jpg" /> +</a> But this entrance, <a name="page49"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 49</span>which fronts Ludgate Hill, is not +much used; the common entrance is by the north portico and flight +of steps. On entering, the impression produced by the +vastness of the internal space is great, although the walls want +something in tone and relief. (Subscriptions are being +gradually raised for richly adorning the interior.) There +are two domes, an outer and an inner, having a brick cone between +them. The inner dome has six paintings relating to events +in the life of St. Paul: they were painted by Sir James +Thornhill, and have recently been renovated. In the choir +is much beautiful carving, by Grinling Gibbons. In various +parts of the cathedral are statues and monuments of John Howard, +Dr. Johnson, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Bishop Heber, Nelson, +Cornwallis, Abercrombie, Sir John Moore, Lord Heathfield, Howe, +Rodney, <a name="page50"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +50</span>Collingwood, St. Vincent, Picton, Ponsonby, and +others. In the <i>Crypt</i> beneath are the tombs of +Wellington, Nelson, Wren, Collingwood, Picton, Reynolds, +Lawrence, Opie, West, Fuseli, Turner, Rennie, and other eminent +men. Service is performed on Sundays at 10.30 <span +class="smcap">a.m.</span> and 3.15 <span +class="smcap">p.m.</span>; on week-days at 8.0, 10.0, and +4.0. A screen, on which the organ stood, has lately been +removed, throwing open the beautiful choir to view from the +nave. The organ has been placed on the north side of the +choir. Several times in the year service is performed under +the dome on Sunday evenings by gaslight; and an additional organ +for this service has been set up in the south transept. The +appearance of the dome at these times, with a soft light shed +around it, is extremely beautiful; and the congregation generally +assembled is enormous. If the stranger pleases to pay the +required fees, he may mount, by means of stairs and ladders, to +the top of the dome; and he will be amply repaid by the extensive +view from the balcony or gallery, which comprehends the whole of +London, with the country beyond its outskirts, and the Thames +rolling placidly in its winding course between dense masses of +houses. The <i>Whispering Gallery</i>, at the bottom of the +inner dome, renders audible the slightest whisper from side to +side. The <i>Library</i> contains chiefly ecclesiastical +works for the use of the Chapter. The two <i>Golden +Galleries</i> are at the top of the inner and outer domes. +The <i>Ball</i> and <i>Cross</i>, reached by more than 600 steps, +are at the summit of the building; the ball, about 6 feet in +diameter, is reached with some difficulty. The +<i>Clock-work</i> and <i>Great Bell</i> always attract the notice +of visitors. The pendulum measures 14 feet in length, while +the mass at its extremity is one hundredweight. The great +bell, which is only tolled when a member of the royal family +dies, is placed in the southern turret above the western portico; +it weighs 4½ tons, and is 10 feet in diameter. The +fine deep tones of this mighty bell, on which the hours are +struck, sweep solemnly, in a quiet evening, across the +metropolis, and are at times heard distinctly by families at +their firesides far out in the suburbs. Altogether, St. +Paul’s is a magnificent structure; and though it cost a +million and a-half of money in the erection—a great sum in +the seventeenth century—<a name="page51"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 51</span>the amount was well spent on so +worthy an object. St. Paul’s is open, during the +greater part of the day, free to the public, but no place is +exhibited during divine service.—Fee for admission to the +whispering gallery and the two outer galleries, 6d.; the ball, +1s. 6d.; the clock, great bell, library, and geometrical +staircase, 6d.; and the crypt, 6d.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p49b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Tomb of Nelson—crypt" +title= +"Tomb of Nelson—crypt" +src="images/p49s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><b>Westminster Abbey</b>.—Nearly opposite the Houses of +Parliament stands Westminster Abbey, open to inspection on the +north, west, and east, but much crowded upon by private dwellings +on the south. In very early times this spot of ground was a +small insular tract, surrounded by the waters of the Thames, and +called Thorney Island. Here a monastic institution was +founded on the introduction of Christianity into Britain. +Under Edward the Confessor an abbey was raised upon the site of +the ruined monastic building. The ground-plan, as usual, +bore the form of the cross. Rights and endowments were +granted; and the edifice assumed a great degree of architectural +grandeur. It had become the place for the inauguration of +the English monarchs; and William the Conqueror was crowned here +with great pomp in 1066. Henry III. and Edward I. enlarged +the abbey; and the building continued nearly in the state in +which they left it, until Henry VII. added a chapel, built in the +perpendicular style, on which the greatest skill of the architect +and the sculptor was displayed; exhibiting one of the most +splendid structures of the age, and so highly esteemed, that it +was enjoined that the remains of royalty alone should be interred +within its walls. During the reign of Henry VIII., the +abbey was considerably defaced; but on the surrender of its +revenues, Henry raised Westminster to the dignity of a city, and +its abbey was constituted a cathedral. It was, however, +afterwards re-united to the see of London, in 1550. (An +archbishopric of Westminster, created by the Pope a few years +ago, is connected only with Roman Catholic matters, and is not +recognised by the English law.) Westminster Abbey, during +the reign of William and Mary, was thoroughly repaired, and the +towers added at the western entrance, under the direction of Sir +Christopher Wren. These towers, however, though good in +outline and general mass, are not in harmony <a +name="page52"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 52</span>with the rest +of the building. The length of the abbey is 416 feet; +breadth at the transept, 203 feet; and at the nave, 102 feet; +height of the west towers, 225 feet. The exterior +measurement, including Henry VII.’s Chapel, is 530 +feet.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p52b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Westminster Abbey, and St. Margaret’s Church" +title= +"Westminster Abbey, and St. Margaret’s Church" +src="images/p52s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>On entering at the great western door between the towers, the +magnificence of the abbey soon becomes apparent. The +interior displays grand masses of marble columns separating the +nave from the side aisles. A screen, surmounted by a noble +organ, divides the nave from the choir; while beyond the eye +soars, amid graceful columns, tracery, and decorated windows, to +the summit of the eastern arch that overlooks the adjacent +chapels. The walls on both sides display a great profusion +of sepulchral monuments, among which are some finely executed +pieces of sculpture, and touching memorials of those whose +exploits or exertions have deserved the notice of posterity; but +too many, unfortunately, are in very bad taste. Above the +line of tombs are chambers and galleries, once occupied by +ecclesiastics; solemn and dreary in their <a +name="page53"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 53</span>antiquity, +though relieved by occasional sunbeams glancing across the misty +height of the nave. The northern window is richly +ornamented with stained glass.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p53b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Westminster Abbey—Chapel of Henry VII." +title= +"Westminster Abbey—Chapel of Henry VII." +src="images/p53s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>The Chapel of Edward the Confessor is at the eastern end of +the choir, and contains the shrine of St. Edward: that it was an +exquisite piece of workmanship, is evident even in its +decay. Here also is the coronation-chair, under which is +placed the celebrated stone brought from Scone, in Scotland, by +Edward I. in 1297. The Chapel of Henry VII. is also at the +eastern end; and among the ashes of many royal personages +interred here are those of Mary and Elizabeth. The ascent +to this splendid work of Gothic art is by <a +name="page54"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 54</span>steps of +black marble. The entrance gates display workmanship of +extraordinary richness in brass. The effect produced on +entering this chapel is striking: the roof is wrought in stone +into an astonishing variety of figures and devices; the stalls +are of oak, having the deep tone of age, with Gothic canopies, +all elaborately carved. Here, before the remodelling of the +order, used to be installed the knights of the Order of the +Bath. In their stalls are placed brass plates of their +armorial insignia, and above are suspended their banners, swords, +and helmets; beneath the stalls are seats for the esquires. +The pavement is composed of black and white marble; beneath which +is the royal vault. The magnificent tomb of Henry VII. and +his queen stands in the body of this chapel, in a curious chantry +of cast brass, admirably executed, and interspersed with +effigies, armorial bearings, and devices relating to the union of +the red and white roses.</p> +<p>The number of statues and monuments in Westminster Abbey is +very great. Most of them are contained in side-chapels, of +which there are several: viz., St. Benedict’s, St. +Edmund’s, St. Nicholas’s, St. Paul’s, St. +Erasmus’s, John the Baptist’s, and Bishop +Islip’s; besides Henry VII.’s and Edward the +Confessor’s Chapels, already mentioned. These Chapels +contain about ninety monuments and shrines, some of great +beauty. The Choir, the Transept, and the Nave, also contain +a large amount of sculpture—many specimens in wretched +taste, by the side of some of the first works of Flaxman, +Chantrey, Roubiliac, Nollekins, Bacon, Westmacott, Gibson, +Behnes, and others. <i>Poets’ Corner</i>, occupying +about half of the south transept, is a famous place for the busts +and monuments of eminent men—including Chaucer, Spencer, +Shakespeare, Drayton, Ben Jonson, Milton, Butler, Davenant, +Cowley, Dryden, Prior, Rowe, Gay, Addison, Thomson, Goldsmith, +Gray, Mason, Sheridan, Southey, Campbell, &c. Lord +Macaulay and Lord Palmerston were recently buried in the +Abbey—the one in January, 1860; the other in October, +1865. William Makepeace Thackeray does not lie there, but +at Kensal Green, though his bust is placed next to the statue of +Joseph Addison. On the 14th June, 1870, Charles Dickens was +interred there. His grave is situated at the foot of <a +name="page55"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 55</span>the coffin of +Handel, and at the head of the coffin of R. B. Sheridan, and +between the coffins of Lord Macaulay and Cumberland the +dramatist. Near to England’s great humorist, towards +his feet, lie Dr. Johnson and Garrick, while near them lies +Thomas Campbell. Shakespeare’s monument is not far +from the foot of the grave. Goldsmith’s is on the +left. A monumental brass, to the memory of Robert +Stephenson, has recently been inlaid in the floor of the +nave. The <i>Cloisters</i> and the <i>Chapter House</i> +contain some curious old effigies.</p> +<p>Westminster Abbey is a collegiate church, with a dean and +chapter, who possess a considerable authority over the adjoining +district, and a revenue of about £30,000 per annum. +The abbey may be considered as sub-divided into chapels; but in +the present day divine service (at 7.45,10, and 3) is performed +only in a large enclosed space near the eastern extremity of the +building—except on Sunday evenings during a portion of the +year, when service is performed in the nave, in a similar way to +the Sunday evening services under the dome of St. +Paul’s. This evening service, at 7 o’clock, is +very striking in effect. There are usually a considerable +number of strangers present at the services, particularly at that +on Sunday evenings. The entrance chiefly used is that at +Poets’ Corner, nearly opposite the royal entrance to the +Houses of Parliament; but on Sunday evenings the great western +entrance is used. There is admittance every week-day free +to the chief parts of the building, and to other parts on payment +of a fee of 6d.</p> +<p><b>Parish and District Churches</b>.—When we consider +that the metropolis contains nearly 1000 churches and chapels, it +may well be conceived that only a few of them can be noticed +here. In addition to St. Paul’s and the Abbey, the +following are worth the notice of strangers. <i>St. +Michael’s</i>, Cornhill, has lately been restored and +re-decorated in an elaborate manner by Mr. Gilbert Scott. +<i>St. Bartholomew’s</i>, Smithfield, which has been lately +restored, was once the choir and transepts of a priory church; it +is interesting, not only for some of its monuments, but for the +varieties of Norman and Gothic styles which it exhibits. +<i>St. Stephen’s</i>, Walbrook, close to the Mansion House, +is especially worthy of attention; as the <a +name="page56"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 56</span>interior is +considered to be one of Wren’s happiest conceptions. +<i>Bow Church</i>, or the Church of St. Mary-le-Bow, occupies a +conspicuous position on the south side of Cheapside, and has a +spire of great elegance, designed by Sir Christopher Wren. +The clock projects over the street from the lower part of the +tower. Standing as this church does, in the centre of the +city, those who are born within the sound of its bells are +jocularly called <i>Cockneys</i>, a name equivalent to genuine +citizens. +<a href="images/p56b.jpg"> +<img class='clearcenter' alt= +"St. Stephen’s, Walbrook" +title= +"St. Stephen’s, Walbrook" +src="images/p56s.jpg" /> +</a>The consecration of the Bishop of London takes place at Bow +Church. <i>St. Bride’s</i>, Fleet Street, is adorned +with one of the most beautiful of Sir Christopher Wren’s +steeples. <i>The Temple Church</i> is described in the +section relating to the Temple and other Inns of Court. +<i>St. Saviour’s</i> is by far the most important parish +church on the Surrey side of the water. It is <a +name="page57"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 57</span>near the foot +of London Bridge, on the west side of High Street, +Southwark. It originally belonged to the Priory of St. Mary +Overy, but was made a parish church in 1540. The Choir and +the Lady Chapel are parts of the original structure, and are +excellent examples of the early English style; they have been +restored in the present century. Many other parts of the +building deserve notice. The <i>Savoy Church</i>, between +the Strand and the Thames, near Waterloo Bridge, was once the +Chapel of the Hospital of St. John the Baptist; it was destroyed +by fire in 1864, and re-built in 1866. <i>St. +Paul’s</i>, Covent Garden, built by Inigo Jones, is +noticeable for its massive Doric portico. <i>St. +James’s</i>, Piccadilly, one of the least sightly of brick +churches outside, has an interior which exhibits Wren’s +skill in a striking degree. <i>St. +Martin’s-in-the-Fields</i>, at the north-east corner of +Trafalgar Square, has always been admired for its elegant spire +and portico, constructed by Gibbs. <i>St. +George’s</i>, Hanover Square, is chiefly celebrated for the +fashionable marriages that take place there; the exterior, is, +however, picturesque. <i>Whitehall Chapel</i> was +originally intended as part of a royal residence. It is, in +fact, the Banqueting House of the palace of Whitehall, the only +remaining portion of what was once an extensive pile. The +former brick structure is entirely gone. The present +edifice, built by Inigo Jones in the time of James I., is +considered to be one of the finest specimens of Italian +architecture in England. Charles I. was executed on a +scaffold erected in front of one of the windows. The +interior of Whitehall is about 112 feet long, 56 wide, and 56 +high, forming exactly a double cube; the ceiling is painted by +Rubens, with mythological designs in honour of James I. The +building, being appropriated to no other use, was converted into +a chapel in the time of George I., and was modernized in the +interior, about 30 years ago, by Sir Robert Smirke. <i>Old +St. Pancras Church</i>, in Pancras Road, a small but venerable +structure, has in recent years been altered and adapted as a +District Church. Its churchyard was remarkable for the +number of artists and other eminent persons interred in it; at +one time it was the great metropolitan burial-place for Roman +Catholics, and consequently an unusual number of foreigners of +celebrity, French <i>emigrés</i> <a +name="page58"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 58</span>during the +Reign of Terror, &c., were buried there. Recently, +however, the old graveyard has been sadly cut about by the +pickaxes and shovels of railway excavators, engaged by the +Midland Railway, which passes thereby.</p> +<p>It is worthy of note, that Sir Christopher Wren built the +large number of <i>fifty-three</i> churches in London after the +Great Fire. Nearly all of them are still standing. +Among the most noted are St. Paul’s; Bow Church; St. +Stephen’s, Walbrook; St. Bride’s; St. Andrew’s, +Holborn; St. Sepulchre’s; St. Antholin’s, Watling +Street; Christ Church, Newgate; St. Clement Danes; St. +Dunstan’s-in-the-East; St. James’s, Piccadilly; St. +Lawrence, Jewry; St. Magnus, London Bridge; St. Martin’s, +Ludgate; and St. Mary, Aldermanbury.</p> +<p>Among churches and chapels of the Establishment, of more +recent date, the following are worth looking at:—<i>New St. +Pancras</i>, near the Euston Railway Station, is the most notable +example in London of an imitative Greek temple; it was built by +Messrs. Inwood, in 1822, and cost nearly £80,000. +<i>St. Marylebone</i>, in the Marylebone Road, built by Mr. +Hardwick in 1817, cost £60,000; the interior is heavy in +appearance, having two tiers of galleries; in few London +churches, however, is divine service, according to the +established ritual, performed on a more impressive scale. +<i>St. Stephen’s</i>, Westminster, in Rochester Row, was +built wholly at the expense of Miss Burdett Coutts, and is a fine +example of revived Gothic; the choral service on Sundays is grand +and complete. <i>St. Paul’s</i>, at Knightsbridge, +and <i>St. Barnabas</i>, at Pimlico, especially the latter, are +noticeable for the mediæval revivals, in arrangements and +in service, which belong to what is called the high-church +party. <i>All Saints’ Church</i>, Margaret Street, +is, perhaps, the most sumptuous of modern London churches. +Although small, it cost £60,000. Mr. Butterfield was +the architect. The exterior is of red and black brick, very +mediæval in appearance. The interior is ornate, with +polished granite piers, alabaster capitals, coloured marble +decorations, stained-glass windows, and frescoes by Dyce. +<i>St. James the Less</i>, in Garden Street, Westminster, is a +truly remarkable specimen of coloured-brick <a +name="page59"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 59</span>architecture, +both within and without; Mr. Street was the architect; and the +cost was defrayed by the daughters of the late Dr. Monk, Bishop +of Gloucester. A very noteworthy and costly brick church +has been constructed in Baldwin’s Gardens, Gray’s Inn +Lane, from the designs of Mr. Butterfield, and at the sole cost +of Mr. J. G. Hubbard. It is dedicated to <i>St. +Alban</i>. The Rev. A. Mackonochie, whose extreme +ritualistic views have several times brought his name prominently +before the public, was the incumbent.</p> +<p><b>Catholic, Dissenting, and Jewish Places of +Worship</b>.—It is almost impossible to give an exact +enumeration of the places of worship in London, seeing that so +many new ones are in the course of building. But the +following figures, based on information supplied by the London +Post-Office Directory, and otherwise, will, it is hoped, be found +to convey a very fair approximate notion on the subject. In +that Directory, then, there will be found the names of about 100 +city parishes. But of these, some 40 have, of late years, +been united to other parishes. Thus, All Hallow’s, +Honey Lane, is united with St. Mary-le-Bow; St. Mary Magdalen, in +Milk Street, is united with St. Lawrence, Jewry; and so +forth. Many of the parishes so united have their own +churches now closed, or in course of demolition, and worship is +provided for them at the churches of the particular parishes into +which they have been merged. Without counting the city +proper, there are, in London, 50 parish churches, and at least +300 district churches and chapels belonging to the Church of +England. The Roman Catholics have 41 churches and chapels, +without reckoning sundry religious houses. The Wesleyans +have 152. The recognised Dissenters from the Wesleyan body +have 4; the Baptists, 109; the Independents, 109; the United +Methodist Free Church, 27; Primitive Methodists, 16; the +Unitarians, 8; Methodist New Connexion, 8; the Quakers, 5; the +Presbyterians (English) 15; the Church of Scotland, 5; the +Calvinists have 2; the Calvinistic Methodists, 3; the Welsh +Calvinistic Methodists, 4. The Jews have 12 Synagogues; +there are 3 French Protestant churches; 9 German (Reformed) +churches and chapels; Swiss Protestant, 1; Swedenborgians, 2; +Plymouth <a name="page60"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +60</span>Brethren, 3; Catholic Apostolic (not Roman) 6; 1 +Swedish, and 1 Greek church; 1 Russian chapel, and 3 +meeting-houses of Free Christians; 1 Moravian; and some 40 other +places for public worship, belonging to miscellaneous +denominations. Of Roman Catholic churches, the chief is +<i>St. George’s Cathedral</i>, near Bethlehem +Hospital—a very large, but heavy Gothic structure; the +tower has never been finished for want of funds. +<a href="images/p60b.jpg"> +<img class='clearcenter' alt= +"The Tabernacle" +title= +"The Tabernacle" +src="images/p60s.jpg" /> +</a>The service here is more complete than at any other Roman +Catholic structure in England. <i>St. Mary’s</i>, +near Moorfields; the <i>Spanish Chapel</i>, near Manchester +Square; and the <i>Italian Church</i>, in Hatton Wall—are +three other Roman Catholic chapels that attract many strangers by +their excellent music. The <i>Catholic and Apostolic +Church</i>, in Gordon Square, may be regarded as the cathedral of +the so-called Irvingites (a designation, however, which they +repudiate); it is one of the best modern examples of early +English, but there are no funds available <a +name="page61"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 61</span>for finishing +the tower. The minister of the National Scotch Church, in +Crown Court, Drury Lane, is the celebrated Rev. J. Cumming, D.D., +whose preaching attracts large congregations. Of the +dissenting chapels in London, by far the most remarkable is Mr. +Spurgeon’s <i>Tabernacle</i>, built at a cost of about +£30,000, at Newington, near the Elephant and Castle; +everything, within and without, has been made subservient to the +accommodating of 4000 or 5000 persons, all of whom can hear, and +nearly all see, the celebrated preacher. The principal +<i>Jews’ Synagogue</i> is in Great St. Helen’s, near +Leadenhall Street—remarkable rather for the ceremonies, at +certain seasons of the year, than for anything in the building +itself. A synagogue exists for the Jews residing in the +western half of the metropolis, in Great Portland Street.</p> +<p><b>Cemeteries</b>.—Intramural burial is now forbidden in +London. The chief cemeteries are those at Highgate, +Finchley, Abney Park, Mile-End, Kensal Green, Bethnal Green, +Ilford, Brompton, Norwood, Nunhead, and Camberwell. There +is a very fine view of London, on a clear day, from the +first-named. Kensal Green contains the graves of many +distinguished persons. Princess Sophia was buried at the +last-named cemetery; and a sedulous visitor would discover the +tombs and graves of Sydney Smith, the daughters and a grandchild +of Sir Walter Scott, Allan Cunningham, John Murray, Thomas Hood, +Liston, Loudon, Callcott, Birkbeck, Brunel, Thackeray, and other +persons of note. Cardinal Wiseman lies interred in the +Catholic Cemetery adjacent to Kensal Green. The <i>Great +Northern Cemetery</i>, near Colney Hatch, lately opened, has +special railway facilities from the King’s Cross +Station. The <i>Woking Necropolis</i>, in Surrey, is too +far distant to be included within London; nevertheless, the +admirable railway arrangements, from a station of the +South-Western, in the Westminster Road, make it, in effect, one +of the metropolitan cemeteries. If the old burial-grounds +are no longer attended to for funerals, many of them are deeply +interesting for their memorials of the past. <i>Old St. +Pancras Churchyard</i> has already been named; and another worthy +of attention is <i>Bunhill Fields</i> burying-ground. It +has been called the ‘Campo Santo’ of Dissenters, for +<a name="page62"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 62</span>there lie +the remains of Daniel Defoe, John Bunyan, John Owen, George Fox, +(who founded the sect of the Quakers about 1646,) Dr. Isaac +Watts, and many a stout defender of nonconformity.</p> +<h2>BRITISH AND SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUMS; SCIENTIFIC +ESTABLISHMENTS.</h2> +<p><b>British Museum</b>.—This is a great national +establishment, containing a vast and constantly-increasing +collection of books, maps, drawings, prints, sculptures, +antiquities, and natural curiosities. It occupies a most +extensive suite of buildings in Great Russell Street, Bloomsbury, +commenced in 1823, and not even now finished. The sum spent +on them is little less than £1,000,000. Sir Richard +Smirke was the architect. The principal, or south front, +370 feet long, presents a range of 44 columns, the centre being a +majestic portico, with sculptures in the pediment. Since +its commencement, in 1755, the collection has been prodigiously +increased by gifts, bequests, and purchases; and now it is, +perhaps, the largest of the kind in the world. The library +contains more than <i>eight hundred thousand</i> volumes, and is +increasing enormously in extent every year. The +Reading-Room is open only to persons who proceed thither for +study, or for consulting authorities. A reading order is +readily procured on written application, enclosing the +recommendation of two respectable householders, to “the +Principal Librarian.” It is open nearly 300 days in +the year, and for an average of eight hours each day. No +general inspection of this room by strangers is allowed, except +by a written order from the secretary, which can, however, +readily be obtained on three days in the week. The porters +in the hall will direct to the secretary’s office; and +strangers must be careful to observe the conditions on which the +order is given. The present reading-room, opened in 1857, +and built at a cost of £150,000, is one of the finest +apartments in the world; it is circular, 140 feet in diameter, +and open to a dome-roof 106 feet high, supported without +pillars. This beautiful room, and the fireproof galleries +for books which surround it, were planned by Mr. Panizzi, the +late chief librarian.</p> +<p>The portions of the British Museum open to ordinary visitors +<a name="page63"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 63</span>consist of +an extensive series of galleries and saloons on the ground and +upper floors, each devoted to the exhibition of a distinct class +of objects. Among others are—terracottas, Roman +sculptures and sepulchral antiquities, Sir T. Lawrence’s +collection of casts, British antiquities, ethnological specimens, +Egyptian antiquities, several saloons containing the Elgin and +Phigalian Marbles, Nineveh and Lycian sculptures, &c. +The rooms containing objects in natural history and artificial +curiosities are handsomely fitted up with glass-cases on the +walls and tables. Days may be spent in examining this vast +assemblage of objects; and to assist in the inspection, +catalogues for the entire Museum may be purchased at the door at +a cheap price. +<a href="images/p63b.jpg"> +<img class='clearcenter' alt= +"Reading Room, British Museum" +title= +"Reading Room, British Museum" +src="images/p63s.jpg" /> +</a>The following will convey an idea of the order in which the +general contents of the Museum meet the eye. Outside the +building, in unsightly glass sheds under the porticos and +colonnades, are ancient Greek sculptures from Asia Minor, chiefly +from the famous Mausoleum of Halicarnassus; they are temporarily +so <a name="page64"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 64</span>placed +until room can be found for them elsewhere. On entering the +hall or vestibule, and ascending the staircase, the galleries of +natural history are reached—stuffed quadrupeds, including a +<i>gorilla</i> purchased from M. Chaillu; stuffed birds; +birds’ eggs; shells in immense variety and of surpassing +beauty; minerals; and fossils. These occupy the eastern, +northern, and part of the southern galleries. The western, +and the rest of the southern galleries, are occupied by numerous +antiquarian and ethnological collections—including Egyptian +mummies and ornaments, Greek and Etruscan vases, Greek and Roman +bronzes, ancient and mediæval porcelain, ivory carvings, +and specimens of the dresses, weapons, instruments, &c., of +various nations. On the ground-floor, to the right of the +hall, visitors are admitted to a room containing a curious +collection of manuscripts, autographs, and early printed books; +and to the King’s Library, a beautiful apartment, +containing the books presented by George IV. This room also +possesses a small but extremely choice display of Italian, +German, and Flemish drawings and engravings; together with a few +<i>nielli</i>, (black engravings on silver plates.) The +west side of the ground-floor is occupied by the ancient +sculptures—Egyptian, Greek, Assyrian, Lycian, Roman, +&c.—A refreshment-room for visitors was opened in 1866, +and is situated in the western basement.</p> +<p>The British Museum is open on Mondays, Wednesdays, and +Fridays, and the whole of Christmas, Easter, and Whitsun +weeks. It is closed on the first week in January, May, and +September, and on Christmas-day, Good-Friday, and +Ash-Wednesday. The hour of opening is 10 o’clock; +that of closing varies from 4 till 6 o’clock, according to +the season of the year. During many years past there have +been newspaper controversies and parliamentary debates touching +the disposal of the rich contents of the Museum. Almost +every part is filled to overflowing; but much diversity of +opinion exists as to which portion, if any, shall be removed to +another locality. Burlington House and the South Kensington +Museum, each has its advocates. Immediate removal of part +of the contents has been decided on.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p65b.jpg"> +<img class='clearcenter' alt= +"Kensington Museum" +title= +"Kensington Museum" +src="images/p65s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><b>South Kensington Museum</b>.—This very interesting +national establishment <a name="page65"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 65</span>is situated at South Kensington, near +the Cromwell and Exhibition Roads, on ground bought out of the +profits of the Great Exhibition of 1851. The varied +contents have been either presented to, or purchased by, the +nation, with the exception of a few collections which have been +lent for temporary periods. They consist of illustrations +of manufactures and the useful arts; models of patented +inventions; collections of raw produce, derived from the animal, +vegetable, and mineral kingdoms; a museum of educational +appliances; casts from sculptures and architectural ornaments; +objects of ornamental art, both mediæval and modern; naval +models, &c. Besides these, there are the fine +collections of paintings presented to the nation by Mr. +Sheepshanks, and other liberal donors; and a portion of the +Vernon collection, the rest being at the National Gallery. +Turner’s pictures, bequeathed to the nation in his will, +were kept here for some years, but were removed to the National +Gallery in 1861. There are, among the group of buildings, +some devoted to the Government Department <a +name="page66"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 66</span>of Science +and Art; but the Museum generally is, so far as concerns the +public, distinct. The Gallery of British Art contains many +hundred pictures, including choice specimens by Turner, Wilkie, +Mulready, Landseer, Leslie, Hogarth, Wilson, Gainsborough, +Reynolds, Lawrence, Constable, Loutherbourg, Callcott, Collins, +Etty, Stanfield, Roberts, Uwins, Creswick, Maclise, Webster, +Eastlake, Ward, Cooke, Cooper, Danby, Goodall, &c. The +rooms containing these pictures, planned by Captain Fowke, are +remarkable for the admirable mode of lighting, both by day and in +the evening. On Mondays, Tuesdays, and Saturdays, the +admission is free from 10 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> till 10 +<span class="smcap">p.m.</span>; on the other three days, called +<i>students’</i> days, 6d. is charged from 10 <span +class="smcap">a.m.</span> till 4, 5, or 6, according to the +season. This is one of the very few free exhibitions open +in the evening (thrice a-week) as well as the daytime.</p> +<p><b>Bethnal Green Museum</b>.—This is really a branch of +the South Kensington Museum, and is situated not far from +Shoreditch Church. It is accessible by omnibus from most +parts of the City and the West End, and is not far distant from +Victoria Park. It was formally opened, in 1872, by the +Prince and Princess of Wales. At the present, its great +attraction is the picture gallery; but it promises to become as +popular as any museum in London, especially as technical +information will become an essential feature of its future +existence. It is open under the same regulations as are +observed at the South Kensington Museum.</p> +<p><b>Museum of Economic Geology</b>.—This small but +interesting establishment, having an entrance in Jermyn Street, +is a national museum for the exhibition of all such articles as +belong to the mineral kingdom. It was built from the +designs of Mr. Pennethorne, and was opened in 1851. Though +less extensive than the British and South Kensington Museums, it +is of a very instructive character. Besides the mineral +specimens, raw and manufactured, it contains models, sections, +and diagrams, illustrative of mining, metallurgy, and various +manufactures. It is open, <i>free</i>, every day, except +Friday.</p> +<p><a name="page67"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +67</span><b>Museum of the College of Surgeons</b>.—This +building, on the south side of Lincoln’s Inn Fields, can be +visited by strangers only through the introduction of members of +the College. The Government, about seventy years ago, +bought John Hunter’s Anatomical Museum, and presented it to +the College. The contents of the museum are illustrative of +the structure and functions of the human body, both in the +healthy and the diseased state; they have been classified and +arranged with great skill by Professor Owen.</p> +<p><b>United Service Museum</b>.—This is situated in +Whitehall Yard. Admission is obtained through the members +of the United Service Institution. The contents of the +museum consist of models, weapons, and implements interesting to +military men. Here see the robe worn by Tippoo Sahib, when +killed at Seringapatam, in 1799. Also observe +Siborne’s extraordinary model of the battle of Waterloo; +and notice the skeleton of the horse which Napoleon rode at that +battle.</p> +<p><b>East India Museum</b>.—Near the building last +noticed, in Fife House, Whitehall, is deposited the collection +known as the East India Museum, formerly deposited at the India +House, in Leadenhall Street, and now belonging to the +nation. It comprises a very curious assemblage of Oriental +dresses, jewels, ornaments, furniture, musical instruments, +models, paintings, tools, implements, idols, trinkets, +&c. Among the rest is the barbaric toy known as +<i>Tippoo’s Tiger</i>. It consists of a figure of a +tiger trampling on a prostrate man, whom he is just about to +seize with his teeth; the interior contains pipes and other +mechanism, which, when wound up by a key, cause the figure of the +man to utter cries of distress, and the tiger to roar. Such +was one of the amusements of Tippoo Sahib! The museum is +open free on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, from 10 till +4.</p> +<p><b>Royal Institution</b>.—This building, in Albemarle +Street, is devoted to the prosecution of science, by means of +lectures, experiments, discussions, and a scientific +library. It has been rendered famous by the brilliant +labours of Davy and Faraday. Admission is only obtainable +by membership, or by fees for courses of lectures.</p> +<p><b>Society of Arts</b>.—This institution has existed in +John Street, <a name="page68"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +68</span>Adelphi, for a long series of years. Its object is +the encouragement of arts, manufactures, agriculture, and +commerce. Under the auspices of the late Prince Consort, it +was mainly instrumental in bringing about the two great +International Exhibitions of 1851 and 1862. The +lecture-room contains six remarkable pictures by Barry, +illustrative of ‘Human Culture.’ Every year +there are free exhibitions of manufactures and new mechanical +inventions.</p> +<p><b>Scientific Societies</b>.—There are many other +Scientific Societies which hold their meetings in London; but +only a few of them possess buildings worthy of much attention, or +contain collections that would interest a mere casual +visitor. The <i>Royal</i>, the <i>Astronomical</i>, the +<i>Geological</i>, the <i>Chemical</i>, and the +<i>Linnæan</i> Societies, the <i>College of Physicians</i>, +the <i>Institution of Civil Engineers</i>, and others of like +kind, are those to which we here refer. Many of these +societies are at present accommodated with the use of apartments +at the public expense, in Burlington House, Piccadilly.</p> +<h2>NATIONAL GALLERY; ROYAL ACADEMY; ART EXHIBITIONS.</h2> +<p><b>National Gallery</b>.—This building, in Trafalgar +Square, is the chief depository of the pictures belonging to the +nation. In 1824, the Government purchased the Angerstein +collection of 38 pictures, for £57,000, and exhibited it +for a time at a house in Pall Mall. The present structure +was finished in 1838, at a cost of about £100,000, from the +designs of Mr. Wilkins. Since that year till 1869, the +Royal Academy occupied the eastern half, and the National Gallery +the western. In the last-named year, the Royal Academy was +removed to Burlington House; and the whole of the building is now +what its name denotes. This National Gallery now comprises +the Angerstein collection, together with numerous pictures +presented to the nation by Lord Farnborough, Sir George Beaumont, +the Rev. Holwell Carr, Mr. Vernon, and other persons; and, most +recent of all, the Turner collection, bequeathed to the nation by +that greatest of our landscape painters. Every year, +likewise, witnesses the purchase of choice old pictures out of +funds provided by Parliament. The grant annually is about +£10,000. To accommodate the constantly increasing +collection, the centre of <a name="page69"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 69</span>the building was re-constructed in +1861, and a very handsome new saloon built, in which are +deposited the choicest examples of the Italian Schools of +Painting: forming, with its contents, one of the noblest rooms of +the kind in Europe. To name the pictures in this collection +would be to name some of the finest works of the Italian, +Spanish, Flemish, and French schools of painters. Some of +the most costly of the pictures are the +following:—Murillo’s ‘Holy Family,’ +£3000; Rubens’s ‘Rape of the Sabines,’ +£3000; Francia’s ‘Virgin and Child,’ +£3500; Sebastian del Piombo’s ‘Raising of +Lazarus,’ 3500 guineas; Coreggio’s ‘Holy +Family,’ £3800; Perugino’s ‘Virgin and +Child,’ £4000; Claude’s ‘Seaport,’ +£4000; Rubens’s ‘Judgment of Paris,’ +£4200; Raffaelle’s ‘St. Catherine,’ +£5000; Rembrandt’s ‘Woman taken in +Adultery,’ £5250; Correggio’s ‘Ecce +Homo,’ and ‘Mercury instructing Cupid,’ 10,000 +guineas; and Paul Veronese’s ‘Family of +Darius,’ £14,000.</p> +<p><b>Royal Academy</b>, <b>Burlington House</b>.—The +Academy was established in 1768, for the encouragement of the +fine arts. Until the finishing of Mr. Wilkin’s +building, the Academy held its meetings and exhibitions in a +small number of rooms at Somerset House. Students are +admitted on evidence of sufficient preliminary training, and +taught gratuitously; but so far as the public is concerned, the +Royal Academy is chiefly known by its famous Annual Exhibition of +modern English pictures and sculptures, from May to July. +This Exhibition is a very profitable affair to the Academy. +Royal commissions and parliamentary committees find a difficulty +in investigating the revenues, privileges, and claims of the +Academy; it is known, however, that the schools are maintained +out of the profits. Concerning the building in Trafalgar +Square, most persons agree that the main front is too much cut up +in petty detail, and that one of the finest sites in Europe has +thus been comparatively neglected. Some have humorously +nicknamed it “The National Cruet Stand.”</p> +<p><b>National Portrait Gallery</b>.—This infant gallery, +established by the nation in 1857, is now at Exhibition Road, +South Kensington. The object is to be strictly confined to +the collecting of a series of national portraits of persons of +any note, whether of early or of late <a name="page70"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 70</span>days. A sum of £2000 +a-year is voted for this purpose. The collection is yet +only small, but very interesting, and is yearly increasing. +Open free on Wednesdays and Saturdays.</p> +<p><b>Soane Museum</b>.—This closely-packed collection, +presented to the nation by the late Sir John Soane, the +architect, occupies the house which he used to inhabit, at No. +13, on the north side of Lincoln’s Inn Fields. Every +nook and corner of about 24 rooms is crowded with works of +art—sarcophagi, ancient gems and intaglios, medals and +coins, sculptures, sketches and models of sculptures, books of +prints, portfolios of drawings, Hogarth’s famous series of +pictures of the ‘Rake’s Progress,’ and numerous +other examples of <i>vertu</i>, some of which cost large sums of +money. The place is open every Wednesday from February to +August inclusive, and every Thursday and Friday in April, May, +and June, from 10 till 4. Still, these are very +insufficient facilities (only 56 days out of the 365 in the year) +for seeing a fine collection of treasures. Orders for +admission are sent, on application, by post.</p> +<p><b>Art Exhibitions</b>.—There are always numerous +picture exhibitions open in the summer months—such as those +formed by the <i>British Institution</i>, the <i>Society of +British Artists</i>, the <i>Society of Painters in Water +Colours</i>, &c.; concerning which information can be seen in +the advertisement columns of the newspapers. At the British +Institution there is a spring exhibition of modern pictures, and +a summer exhibition of ancient. The price of admission to +such places is almost invariably One Shilling. Other +exhibitions, pertaining more to entertainment than to fine arts, +are briefly noticed in a later section.</p> +<h2>COLLEGES; SCHOOLS; HOSPITALS; CHARITIES.</h2> +<p>London, as may well be imagined, is largely supplied with +institutions tending to the proper care of the young, the aged, +the sick, and the impoverished. A few of the more important +among them are worthy of the attention of strangers.</p> +<p><b>Colleges</b>.—The two chief colleges in London are +connected with the <i>London University</i>. This +University is a body of persons, not (as many suppose) a +building. The body was established in 1837, <a +name="page71"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 71</span>to confer +degrees on the students or graduates of many different colleges +in and about London. It occupies apartments at Burlington +House, Piccadilly, lent by the government for examining purposes; +but it neither teaches nor gives lectures. <i>University +College</i>, in Gower Street, was originally called <i>London +University</i>; but since 1837, the more limited designation has +been given to it. +<a href="images/p71b.jpg"> +<img class='clearcenter' alt= +"University College" +title= +"University College" +src="images/p71s.jpg" /> +</a>It was founded in 1828, on the proprietary system, to afford +a good middle-class education at a moderate expense, without +limitation as to religious tests. Hence it is much +frequented by Jews, Parsees, Hindoos, &c. The whole +range of college tuition is given, except divinity; with the +addition of much fuller instruction in science and in modern +languages than was before given in colleges. The building, +with its lofty portico, might possibly have presented a good +appearance <a name="page72"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +72</span>if the plans of the architect had been carried out; but, +through want of funds, the wings have never been built, and the +structure is ridiculously incomplete. The college possesses +a fine collection of casts from Flaxman’s sculptures, +usually open to inspection by strangers. <i>King’s +College</i>, in the Strand, has been already mentioned as +adjoining Somerset House on the east. It was founded in the +same year as University College, expressly in connection with the +Established Church of England. There was some sectarian +bitterness between the two establishments at first, but both have +settled down into a steady career of usefulness. The +teaching of divinity, and the observance of church-service as +part of the routine, are maintained at King’s +College. <i>Gordon College</i>, or <i>University Hall</i>, +in Gordon Square, is an establishment mainly supported by +Unitarians; the building itself, as a modern imitation of the old +red-brick style, is worthy of a passing glance. <i>New +College</i>, at St. John’s Wood, for Congregationalists or +Independents; the <i>Baptist College</i>, in the Regent’s +Park; the <i>English Presbyterian Theological College</i>, +Guildford Street, W.C.; the <i>Wesleyan College</i>, in the +Horseferry Road; <i>Hackney College</i>; and a few others of less +note—are establishments maintained by various bodies of +dissenters; some for educating ministers for the pulpit; some for +training schoolmasters and schoolmistresses. Of the +buildings so occupied, the handsomest is New College. This +was established, a few years ago, as a substitute for +<i>Highbury</i>, <i>Homerton</i>, and <i>Coward</i> Colleges, all +belonging to the Congregationalists. <i>Gresham +College</i>: this is not a college in the modern sense of the +term; it is only a lecture-room. Sir Thomas Gresham left an +endowment for an annual series of lectures, and residences and +stipends for the lecturers. The charity was greatly misused +during the 17th and 18th centuries. Public attention having +been called to the subject, a new lecture hall was built, a few +years ago, at the corner of Basinghall and Gresham Streets, out +of the accumulated fund; and lectures are delivered here at +certain periods of each year. The subjects are divinity, +physic, astronomy, geometry, law, rhetoric, and music. The +lectures take place in the middle of the day, some in Latin, some +in English; they are freely open to the public; but <a +name="page73"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 73</span>the auditors, +at such an hour and in such a place—surrounded by the busy +hum of commerce—are very few in number. Among the +training colleges for schoolmasters and mistresses may be named +the <i>National Society’s</i> at Battersea; <i>St. +Mark’s Training College</i>, Fulham Road; the <i>Training +Institution</i> for schoolmistresses, King’s Road, Chelsea; +the <i>British and Foreign</i> in the Borough Road; and the +<i>Home and Colonial</i> in Gray’s Inn Road. At +Islington is a Church of England Training College for +missionaries. The <i>College of Preceptors</i>, in Queen +Square, resembles the London University in this, that it confers +a sort of degree, or academical rank, but does not teach. +Many so-called colleges are either proprietary or private +schools.</p> +<p><b>Great Public Schools</b>.—The chief of these in +London is <i>Westminster School</i>, not for the building itself, +but for the celebrity of the institution; although the college +hall, once the refectory of the old abbots of Westminster, is +interesting from its very antiquity. The school, which was +founded in 1560, lies south-west of Westminster Abbey, but very +near it. Some of our greatest statesmen and scholars have +been educated here. <i>St. Paul’s School</i>, +situated on the eastern side of St. Paul’s Churchyard, was +founded in 1521, by Dean Colet, for the education of ‘poor +men’s children.’ Like many others of the older +schools, the benefits are not conferred so fully as they ought to +be on the class designated. The presentations are wholly in +the hands of the Mercers’ Company. The now existing +school-house, the third on the same site, was built in +1823. The <i>Charter House School</i>, near Aldersgate +Street, is part of a charity established by Thomas Sutton in +1611. Among other great men here educated were the late Sir +Henry Havelock, and W. M. Thackeray. There is an Hospital +or Almshouse for about 80 ‘poor Brethren,’ men who +have seen better days; and there is a school for the free +education of 40 ‘poor Boys,’ with many more whose +parents pay for their schooling. The chapel and +ante-chapel, the great hall and staircase, and the +governor’s room, are interesting parts of the +building. <i>Christ’s Hospital</i>, or the <i>Blue +Coat School</i>—as it is commonly called from the colour of +the boys’ dress—is situated within an enclosure on +the north side of Newgate Street, and is one of the most splendid +among the charitable foundations of <a name="page74"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 74</span>London. The buildings stand on +the site of a monastery of Grey-friars, which was granted by +Henry VIII. to the city for the use of the poor; and his son and +successor, Edward VI., greatly extended the value of the gift by +granting a charter for its foundation as a charity school, and at +the same time endowing it with sundry benefactions. The +hospital was opened, for the reception and education of boys, in +1552. Charles II. added an endowment for a mathematical +class; and with various augmentations of endowment, the annual +revenue is now understood to be no less than £40,000. +This income supports and educates nearly 1200 children, 500 of +whom, including girls, are boarded at the town of Hertford, for +the sake of country air. The management of the institution +is vested in a body of governors, composed of the lord mayor and +aldermen, twelve common-councilmen chosen by lot, and all +benefactors to the amount of £400 and upwards. The +children are admitted without reference to the City privileges of +parents; about one hundred and fifty are entered annually. +It is undeniable, however, that many children are admitted rather +through interest than on account of the poverty of their +parents. After instruction in the elementary branches of +schooling, the greater number of the boys leave the hospital at +the age of fifteen; those only remaining longer who intend to +proceed to the university, or to go to sea after completing a +course of mathematics. There are seven presentations at +Cambridge, and one at Oxford, open to the scholars. The +buildings of the institution embrace several structures of large +dimensions, chiefly ranged round open courts, with cloisters +beneath; and a Church, which also serves as a parochial place of +worship. The only part of the establishment, however, worth +examining for its architecture is the Great Hall, occupying the +first floor of a building of modern date, designed by Mr. Shaw, +in the Gothic style. It measures 187 feet long, 51 feet +broad, and 47 high, and possesses an organ-gallery at the east +end. In this magnificent apartment the boys breakfast, +dine, and sup. Before meals, one of the elder inmates +repeats a long grace or prayer, at the commencement of which the +whole of the boys, in lines at their respective tables, fall on +their knees. The boys are dressed in the costume selected +for <a name="page75"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 75</span>them +in Edward VI.’s reign; the outer garments consisting of a +long dark-blue coat, breeches, and yellow worsted +stockings. The ‘public suppers,’ on Thursdays +in Lent, are worth the attention of strangers: (tickets from +governors.) <i>Merchant Taylors’ School</i>, situated +in a close part of the City behind the Mansion House, was founded +in 1561 by the Merchant Taylors’ Company. The present +structure was built in 1673, with the exception of some of the +classrooms, which are much more modern. About 260 boys are +educated, wholly on the presentation of members of the Company; +and there are numerous fellowships at St. John’s College, +Oxford, open to the scholars. <i>Mercers’ Free +Grammar School</i>, in College Hill, is a small establishment of +similar kind. The <i>City of London School</i>, in Milk +Street, Cheapside, is one of the most modern of these +<i>Grammar</i> Schools, as they are called. It was founded +in 1835, and possesses several Exhibitions for successful senior +scholars.</p> +<p><b>Other Schools</b>.—The schools established under the +auspices of the National Society, called <i>National</i> Schools, +are very numerous, but need hardly be noticed here. The +<i>British and Foreign School Society</i>, in the Borough Road, +and the <i>Home and Colonial School Society</i>, in Gray’s +Inn Road, train up teachers without reference to religious tests; +whereas the <i>National Society</i> is in connection with the +Church of England. Many very superior schools for girls, +under the designation of <i>Ladies’ Colleges</i>, have been +established in the metropolis within the last few years, in +Harley Street and in Bedford Square, &c. The +<i>Government School of Art for Ladies</i> is in Queen Square, +Bloomsbury. The <i>National Art Training School</i> is at +South Kensington.</p> +<p><b>The London School Board</b>, elected in 1870, under the new +Education Act, has its <i>locale</i> at 33 New Bridge Street, +Blackfriars. It has, practically speaking, almost entire +control of the educational systems of the metropolis, and is +armed with inquisitorial powers that remind us of the ancient +Star Chamber. Still, the system of election of the members +of the Board gives a certain guarantee of responsibility, that +makes its prestige, at least, without suspicion.</p> +<p><b>Schools of Telegraphy</b> are established at 138 Regent +Street, W., and 24 City Road, E.C., where the art is fully +instructed, to resident and non-resident pupils.</p> +<p><a name="page76"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +76</span><b>Hospitals and Charitable Institutions</b>.—A +small volume might readily be filled with a list of +London’s charitable institutions. The charities +connected in some way with the corporation of London are +<i>Christ’s Hospital</i>, for boarding and educating youth, +already mentioned; <i>Bethlehem Hospital</i>, Lambeth, for insane +patients; <i>St. Thomas’s Hospital</i>, for treating poor +patients diseased and hurt; and <i>St. Bartholomew’s +Hospital</i>, West Smithfield, for the same purpose. The +City companies likewise support a number of beneficiary +institutions, such as the <i>Ironmongers’ Almhouses</i> at +Kingsland, and others of like kind. The following hospitals +are the most important among the large number founded and +supported by private benevolence:—<i>Guy’s +Hospital</i>, Southwark; <i>London Hospital</i>, Whitechapel +Road; <i>Westminster Hospital</i>, near the Abbey; <i>St. +George’s Hospital</i>, Hyde Park Corner; <i>Middlesex +Hospital</i>, Charles Street, Oxford Street; <i>University +College Hospital</i>, Gower Street; <i>St. Luke’s +Hospital</i>, for the insane, City Road; <i>King’s College +Hospital</i>, near Clare Market; <i>Small-Pox Hospital</i>, +Highgate Rise; the <i>Foundling Hospital</i>, Great Guildford +Street; the <i>Consumption Hospital</i>, Brompton; <i>Charing +Cross Hospital</i>, Agar Street; the <i>Lock Hospital</i>, Harrow +Road; and the <i>Royal Free Hospital</i>, Gray’s Inn +Road. Besides these, there are several Lying-in hospitals, +a Floating hospital on the Thames, now substituted by a part of +Greenwich Hospital being devoted to a similar use; various +Ophthalmic hospitals, and numerous Dispensaries and Infirmaries +for particular diseases. Institutions for the relief of +indigent persons, Deaf and Dumb asylums, Blind asylums, and +Orphan asylums, are far too numerous to be specified. In +short, there are in this great metropolis about 250 hospitals, +dispensaries, infirmaries, asylums, and almshouses; besides at +least 400 religious, visiting, and benevolent institutions for +ministering to the various ills, mental and moral, bodily or +worldly, to which an immense population is always subject. +It is supposed that these several institutions receive in +subscriptions considerably over £2,000,000 annually. +Some of the hospital buildings above named are large and majestic +in appearance. When, for the Charing Cross extension of the +South-Eastern Railway, St. Thomas’s Hospital and site, <a +name="page77"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 77</span>which +formerly stood close to London Bridge Station, were purchased for +a sum not very much under £300,000, it was arranged to +rebuild the hospital between the south end of Westminster Bridge +and Lambeth Palace. This hospital, which is now completed, +affords a fine object from a steamboat passing up the river, and +is certainly one of the noblest buildings of its class in +Europe.</p> +<h2>THE TOWER; THE MINT; THE CUSTOM HOUSE; THE GENERAL POST +OFFICE.</h2> +<p>This section treats of four important government buildings +situated in the eastern half of the metropolis.</p> +<p><b>The Tower of London</b>.—This famous structure, or +rather group of structures, is a cluster of houses, towers, +barracks, armouries, warehouses, and prison-like edifices, +situated on the north bank of the Thames, and separated from the +crowded narrow streets of the city by an open space of ground +called Tower-hill. The Tower was founded by William the +Conqueror, probably on the site of an older fortress, to secure +his authority over the inhabitants of London; but the original +fort which he established on the spot was greatly extended by +subsequent monarchs; and in the twelfth century it was surrounded +by a wet ditch, which was improved in the reign of Charles +II. This ditch or moat was drained in 1843. Within +the outer wall the ground measures upwards of twelve acres. +Next the river there is a broad quay; and on this side also there +was a channel (now closed) by which boats formerly passed into +the main body of the place. This water-entrance is known by +the name of Traitors’ Gate, being that by which, in former +days, state prisoners were brought in boats after their trial at +Westminster. There are three other entrances or +postern-gates—Lion Gate, Iron Gate, and Water +Gate—only two of which, however, are now used. The +interior of the Tower is an irregular assemblage of short streets +and courtyards, bounded by various structures. The <i>White +Tower</i>, or <i>Keep</i>, is the oldest of these buildings; and +the <i>Chapel</i> in it is a fine specimen of a small Norman +church. Other towers are the <i>Lion Tower</i>, near the +principal entrance; the <i>Middle Tower</i>, the first seen <a +name="page78"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 78</span>on passing +the ditch; the <i>Bell Tower</i>, adjacent to it; the <i>Bloody +Tower</i>, nearly opposite <i>Traitors’ Gate</i>; the +<i>Salt Tower</i>, near the Iron Gate; <i>Brick Tower</i>, where +Lady Jane Grey was confined; <i>Bowyer Tower</i>, where the Duke +of Clarence is said to have been +<a href="images/p78b.jpg"> +<img class='clearcenter' alt= +"Chapel in Tower" +title= +"Chapel in Tower" +src="images/p78s.jpg" /> +</a>drowned in the butt of malmsey; and <i>Beauchamp Tower</i>, +where Anne Boleyn was imprisoned. These old towers are very +curious, but few of them are open to the public. The +principal objects of interest are a collection of cannon, being +trophies of war; the horse armoury, a most interesting collection +of suits of mail on stuffed figures; and the crown and other +insignia of royalty. In the <i>Horse Armoury</i>, a long +gallery built in 1826, is an extensive collection of armour, +arranged by Sir Samuel Meyrick, a great authority on this +subject. It comprises whole suits of armour, consisting of +hauberks, chausses, surcoats, baldricks, breast-plates, +back-plates, chain-mail sleeves and skirts, gauntlets, helmets, +frontlets, vamplates, flanchards, <a name="page79"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 79</span>and other pieces known to the old +armourers. About twenty complete suits of armour are placed +upon stuffed figures of men, mostly on stuffed horses. Four +of the suits belonged to Henry VIII., Dudley Earl of Leicester, +Henry Prince of Wales, and Charles I.; the others are merely +intended to illustrate the kinds of armour in vogue at certain +periods. One suit, of the time of Richard III., +<a href="images/p79b.jpg"> +<img class='clearcenter' alt= +"Traitor’s Gate, Chapel White Tower" +title= +"Traitor’s Gate, Chapel White Tower" +src="images/p79s.jpg" /> +</a>was worn by the Marquis of Waterford at the Eglinton +tournament in 1839. The gallery also contains some other +curiosities relating to the armour of past days. <i>Queen +Elizabeth’s Armoury</i> is in the White Tower, the walls of +which are 13 feet thick, and still contain traces of inscriptions +by state prisoners in troubled times: the armoury contains many +curious old shields, bows, Spanish instruments of torture, +petronels, partisans, beheading axe and <a +name="page80"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 80</span>block, +thumb-screws, Lochaber axes, matchlocks, arquebuses, swords, +&c. Immediately outside these Armouries, in the open +air, are some curious cannon and mortars belonging to different +ages and different countries. The new <i>Barracks</i> +occupy the site of the Small Arms Armoury, destroyed by fire in +1841, when 280,000 stand of arms were destroyed. The +<i>Lions</i> in the Tower were among the sights of the place for +nearly 600 years; they were in a building near the present +ticket-office, but were given to the Zoological Society in +1834. The <i>Jewel House</i>, a well-guarded room to the +east of the Armouries, contains a valuable collection of state +jewels. Among them are the following:—<i>St. +Edward’s Crown</i>, used at all the coronations from +Charles II. to William IV.; the <i>New State Crown</i>, made for +the coronation of Queen Victoria, and valued at more than +£100,000; the <i>Prince of Wales’s</i> and the +<i>Queen Consort’s Crowns</i> (the most recent wearer of +the last was Queen Adelaide); the <i>Queen’s Diadem</i>; +the <i>Royal Sceptre</i>, <i>Queen’s Sceptre</i>, and +<i>Queen’s Ivory Sceptre</i>; the <i>Orb</i> and the +<i>Queen’s Orb</i>; <i>St. Edward’s Staff</i> and the +<i>Rod of Equity</i>; the <i>Swords of Mercy and of Justice</i>; +the <i>Coronation Bracelets</i> and <i>Royal Spurs</i>; the +<i>Ampulla</i> for the holy oil, and the <i>Coronation Spoon</i>; +the silver-gilt <i>Baptismal Font</i>, used at the christening of +royal children; and the famous <i>Koh-i-noor</i>, or +‘Mountain of Light,’ the wonderful diamond once +belonging to Runjeet Singh, chief of Lahore, but now the property +of Queen Victoria,—it was an object of great interest at +the two great Exhibitions in 1851 and 1862. Strangers, on +applying at an office at the entrance from Tower-hill, are +conducted through a portion of the buildings by warders, who wear +a curious costume of Henry VIII.’s time—some years +ago rendered incongruous by the substitution of black trousers +for scarlet hose. These warders, or <i>beef-eaters</i> (as +they are often called), go their rounds with visitors every +half-hour from 10 till 4. The word +“beef-eaters” was a vulgar corruption of +<i>beaufetiers</i>, battle-axe guards, who were first raised by +Henry VII. in 1485. They were originally attendants upon +the king’s buffet. A fee of 6d. is charged for seeing +the Armouries, and 6d. for the Jewel House. From time to +time, when foreign politics look threatening, the Tower undergoes +alterations and renovations <a name="page81"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 81</span>to increase its utility as a +fortress; and it is at all times under strict military +government.</p> +<p><b>The Mint</b>.—This structure, situated a little +north-east of the Tower, is the establishment in which the +coinage is in great part made, and wholly regulated. The +rooms, the machinery, and the processes for coining, are all full +of interest. The assaying of the gold and silver for +coinage; the alloying and melting; the casting into ingots; the +flattening, rolling, and laminating of the ingots to the proper +thickness; the cutting into strips, and the strips into circular +blanks; the stamping of those blanks on both surfaces; and the +testing to ascertain that every coin is of the proper +weight—are all processes in which very beautiful and +perfect apparatus is needed. Copper and bronze coins are +mostly made for the government at Birmingham. From a +statement made in parliament, in August, 1869, by the Right Hon. +Robert Lowe, we gathered that <i>98 millions of sovereigns</i> +had been coined in the Mint since 1850. But of these no +fewer than 44 millions had been lost to our coinage, because many +of the sovereigns, being overweight, had been sent to the +Continent to be melted down as bullion! There are nearly +500 millions of copper coin in circulation; and of silver coin, +from crown pieces down to threepenny pieces, something like the +astounding number of 286,220,000. Permission to view this +interesting establishment could at one time only be obtained by +special application to the Master of the Mint, who has an +official residence at the spot; but since the death of the late +Master, Dr. Graham, that office will not in future be filled +up. A letter to the Deputy Master will probably obtain the +required order to view. We should add that the removal of +the Mint to Somerset House is now seriously contemplated. +It is urged that the price of its present site, if sold, would +readily defray cost of removal.</p> +<p><b>Custom House</b>.—This important building, situated +on the north bank of the Thames, between London Bridge and the +Tower, occupies a site on which other and smaller custom houses +had previously stood. The east and west ends of the present +structure were finished in 1817 by Mr. Laing; but the central +portion was rebuilt afterwards from the designs of Sir Robert +Smirke. The <a name="page82"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +82</span>river front is extensive, and although not +architecturally fine, the general appearance is effective. +One of the few broad terraces on the banks of the Thames is that +in front of the Custom House; it is a good position from whence +strangers can view the shipping in the river. The +‘Long Room’ in this building is 190 feet long by 66 +broad. By way of illustrating the enormous amount of +business done here, we may mention, that in the years +1867–68, the amount of Customs’ receipts collected in +the port of London was <i>more</i> than +<a href="images/p82b.jpg"> +<img class='clearcenter' alt= +"Billingsgate, Coal Exchange, and Custom House. (Fenchurch +Station, behind at the right.)" +title= +"Billingsgate, Coal Exchange, and Custom House. (Fenchurch +Station, behind at the right.)" +src="images/p82s.jpg" /> +</a>that of all the <i>other ports</i> of <i>Great Britain</i> +taken together, and five times that of the whole of +Ireland. In 1867, the port of London gross receipts were +£10,819,711; and in 1868, £10,694,494. The vast +Customs’ duties for the port of London, amounting to nearly +half of those for the whole United Kingdom, are managed here.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page83"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 83</span> +<a href="images/p83b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"General Post Office, &c. (Tower, Monument, and London +Bridge in the distance.)" +title= +"General Post Office, &c. (Tower, Monument, and London +Bridge in the distance.)" +src="images/p83s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><b>General Poet Office</b>.—This large building, at the +corner of Cheapside and St. Martin’s-le-Grand, was finished +in 1829, from the designs of Sir Robert Smirke. It is in +the Ionic style, with a lofty central portico; beneath which is +the entrance to the spacious hall (80 feet long, 60 feet wide, +and 53 feet high), having also an entrance at the opposite +extremity; but the central Hall is now entirely enclosed, owing +to the recent great extension of the Postal business. A +Money-order Office has been built on the opposite side of the +street; and the Post Office has been added to in various ways, to +make room for increased business. The main building, which +contains a vast number of rooms, is enclosed by a railing; and at +the north end is a courtyard, in which mail-vans range up and +depart with their load of bags, at certain hours in the morning +and evening, for the several railway termini. At other +portions <a name="page84"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +84</span>of the building the foreign, colonial, and India mails +are despatched. From six to seven o’clock in the +evening a prodigious bustle prevails in putting letters into the +Post Office; and on Saturday evening, when the Sunday newspapers +are posted, the excitement is still further +increased—especially just before six, by which hour the +newspapers must be posted. The establishment, some four +years ago, employed 20,000 clerks, sorters, and letter-carriers +in the various parts of the United Kingdom; and since the Post +Office took over the business of the Telegraph Companies, the +number of its employés is greatly increased. The +postage charged on foreign and colonial letters is too small to +pay for the mail-packets and other expenses; profit is derived +only from the inland letters. There are now in London and +the suburbs about 730 pillar-boxes and wall-boxes; without +counting receiving houses. Newspapers and book packets must +not be put in town pillar-boxes. A very useful novelty, +<i>Post Office Savings’ Banks</i>, was introduced in +1861. In the year 1840, in which the uniform rate of one +penny per letter of half an ounce weight, &c., commenced, the +revenue of the Post Office was only £471,000. Its +revenue received during the year 1871–72 was no less than +£6,102,900, and every year the receipts are +increasing. New postal buildings of great extent have been +erected on the opposite side of the street.</p> +<h2>THE CORPORATION; MANSION HOUSE; GUILDHALL; MONUMENT; ROYAL +EXCHANGE.</h2> +<p>It will be convenient to group here certain buildings +belonging to the Corporation of London; and to prefix to a notice +of them some account of the mode in which the city of London is +governed.</p> +<p><b>The Corporation</b>.—With respect to civic +jurisdiction, the city of London is governed in a peculiar +manner. In virtue of ancient charters and privileges, the +city is a species of independent community, governed by its own +laws and functionaries. While all other boroughs have been +reformed in their constitution, London has been suffered to +remain, as yet, in the enjoyment of nearly all its <a +name="page85"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 85</span>old +usages. The city is civilly divided into twenty-five wards, +each of which has an alderman; and with one alderman without a +ward, the number of aldermen is 26. Each is chosen for +life, and acts as magistrate within his division. The +freemen of the various wards elect representatives annually to +the common-council, to the number of 206 members. The lord +mayor, aldermen, and common-council, compose the legislative body +for the city. The lord mayor is chosen by a numerous and +respectable constituency, called <i>the livery</i>, or liverymen; +these are certain qualified members of trading corporations, who, +except in electing the lord mayor, sheriffs, members of +parliament, &c., do not directly interfere in city +management. The Court of Aldermen and the Court of +Common-council have certain legislative and executive duties, +partly with and partly without the immediate aid of the lord +mayor. The revenue of the city corporation is derived from +sundry dues, rents, interest of bequests, fines for leases, +&c. The magistracy, police, and prisons cost about +£40,000 annually; but this is exclusive of large sums +disbursed by the court of aldermen. The lord mayor is +elected annually, on the 29th of September, from among the body +of aldermen. The livery send a list of two candidates to +the court of aldermen, and one of these, generally the senior, is +chosen by them. He enters office, with much pomp, on the +9th of November, which is hence called Lord Mayor’s +Day. The procession through the streets on this occasion +attracts citizens as well as strangers. The advocate and +legal adviser of the corporation is an official with the title of +Recorder. The lord mayor and corporation exercise a +jurisdiction over Southwark and other precincts. +Westminster, which is not connected in civic matters with London +Proper, is under the jurisdiction of a high-bailiff. The +city returns 4 members to Parliament, besides the 16 returned by +Westminster, Southwark, Marylebone, Tower Hamlets, Finsbury, +Lambeth, Chelsea, and Greenwich.</p> +<p>In 1829, the old mode of protection by <i>Watchmen</i> was +abolished in all parts of the metropolis except the city, and a +new <i>Police Force</i> established by Act of Parliament. +This has been a highly successful and beneficial +improvement. The new police is under <a +name="page86"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 86</span>the +management of commissioners, who are in direct communication with +the Secretary of State for the Home Department; under the +commissioners are superintendents, inspectors, sergeants, and +constables. The district under their care includes the +whole metropolis and environs, with the exception of the city, +grouped into 21 divisions, each denoted by a letter. The +constables wear a blue uniform, and are on duty at all times of +the day and night. Three-fourths of the expenses are paid +out of the parish rates, but limited to an assessment of 8d. per +pound on the rental; the remainder is contributed from the public +purse. The corporation have since established a Police +Force for the city on the model of that above mentioned. In +addition to two Police Offices for the city, at the Mansion House +and Guildhall, there are eleven for the remaining parts of the +metropolis,—viz., Bow Street, Clerkenwell, Great +Marlborough Street, Thames, Worship Street, Southwark, +Marylebone, Westminster, Lambeth, Greenwich and Woolwich, and +Hammersmith and Wandsworth. The Thames Police have a +peculiar jurisdiction over the river. In 1836, a horse +patrol was added to the Bow Street establishment, consisting of +inspectors and patrols, whose sphere of action is the less +frequented roads around the metropolis. With all these +means of preserving the peace and preventing crime, the +metropolis is now one of the most orderly cities in the world; +and provided strangers do not seek the haunts of vice, but pursue +their way steadily, they run little or no risk of +molestation. The number of metropolitan police in 1872 was +about 9,000; of city police, 700—including, in both cases, +superintendents, inspectors, &c., &c. The +commissioner of metropolitan police is Lieutenant-Colonel E. Y. +W. Henderson, C.B., 4 Whitehall Place, S.W.; the commissioner of +city police is Colonel James Fraser, C.B., 26 Old Jewry, E.C.</p> +<p>The <i>Drainage</i> of London was a matter barely understood +at all, and in no wholesome sense practised, till some time after +the Board of Works was formed, in 1855, when their best efforts +to check a rapidly growing evil—viz., the casting of +London’s poisonous sewage into the Thames at our very +doors—were called into play. The estimated cost of +one of the most colossal schemes of modern times was, <a +name="page87"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 87</span>at its +outset, put down at something over three millions; and when the +vast plan for main drainage was commenced, in 1859, a sanitary +revolution began. A far greater sum, however, must be +expended ere the idea is wholly carried out. It is +obviously out of our power, in our limited space, to do anything +more than give the reader a mere rough notion of the good to be +done and the difficulties to be overcome. The plan was to +construct some 70 odd miles of gigantic sewers on either side of +the Thames. The north side of the river has three different +lines of sewers, which meet at the river Lea, and thereafter go +along, in one huge embankment, to Barking Creek, on the Thames, +14 miles below London Bridge. With certain differences, the +sewage of the south side of the Thames is amenable to the same +kind of treatment. By some returns, furnished in June, +1870, by the engineer of the Metropolitan Board of Works, it +appears that the average daily quantity of sewage pumped into the +river Thames at Crossness was 170,934 cubic metres, and at +Barking 152,808 cubic metres—equivalent to about as many +tons by weight. That quantity, of course, will every year, +as London grows, increase. As the sewers on the north side +of the river get more near to the sea, they can be seen. +The south side sewers are nearly all out of sight. As the +tide flows, the filth of London, by their means, is poured into +the water. As it ebbs, the sewage is carried out to +sea. Powerful steam-engines, for pumping up sewage from low +levels, are used as they are required. The clerk of the +Metropolitan Board of Works, who may be seen at Spring Gardens, +Charing Cross, will, we should fancy, oblige any gentleman with +engineering proclivities with an order to view what has already +been accomplished by marvellous ability and +enterprise,—whose results can in no fair sense gain +anything like fair appreciation without personal inspection.</p> +<p>London is <i>Lighted</i> by sundry joint-stock gas companies; +the parishes contract with them for street lights, and +individuals for the house and shop lights. Gas was first +introduced into London, in Golden Lane, in 1807; in Pall Mall in +1809; and generally through London in 1814. There are +something like 2,500 miles of gas-pipes in and about London.</p> +<p><a name="page88"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 88</span>The +first of the public <i>Baths</i> and <i>Wash-houses</i> was +established near the London Docks in 1844. The number, of +course, has vastly increased. Many of them are maintained +by the parish authorities, and are very cheap.</p> +<p>The first public <i>Drinking Fountain</i> in London was +erected, near St. Sepulchre’s Church, close to Newgate, in +1859. There are now nearly 200 such fountains and troughs +for animals in London.</p> +<p>In 1833, by an agreement among the Fire Insurance offices, +there was established a regular fire-suppression police, or +<i>Fire Brigade</i>, consisting of a superintendent, foremen, +engineers, sub-engineers, and firemen; numerous engines are in +constant readiness at fifty-four different stations. (The +brigade is now placed under public control, supported by a +house-rate.) The fires in London exceed 1,500 annually, on +an average.</p> +<p><b>Mansion House</b>.—This is a tall square mass of dark +stone building, nearly opposite the Bank and the Royal Exchange, +with a portico of six Corinthian columns in front, resting on a +low rustic basement. This edifice, which extends a +considerable depth behind, is the official residence of the Lord +Mayor of London, provided by the city corporation. Besides +an extensive suite of domestic apartments, it contains a number +of state-rooms, in which company is received and +entertained. The chief of these rooms are the Egyptian hall +and the ball-room, which have a grand appearance. Some fine +sculptures by British artists—the best of which are +Foley’s ‘Caractacus and Egeria,’ and +Bailey’s ‘Genius and the Morning +Star’—have recently been added; the corporation +having voted a sum of money for this purpose. The lord +mayor’s annual stipend is £5,997 8s. 4d., with +certain allowances, we believe, not stated; and in the Mansion +House he has the use of a superb collection of plate: he is +likewise allowed the use of a state-coach, &c. Every +lord mayor, however, expends more than this sum during his year +of office in grand banquets.</p> +<p><b>Guildhall</b>.—This may be regarded as the +<i>Town-hall</i>, or what the French would call the <i>Hotel de +Ville</i>, of London; where are held meetings of the livery to +elect members of parliament, lord mayor, <a +name="page89"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 89</span>sheriffs, and +others, and where the grandest civic entertainments are +given. It is situated at the end of King Street, +Cheapside. The building is old, but received a new front, +in a strange kind of Gothic, in 1789. The interior of the +grand hall is 153 feet long, 48 feet broad, and 55 feet high; it +is one of the largest rooms in London, and can accommodate about +3,500 persons at dinner. Two clumsy colossal figures, +called Gog and Magog, the history of which has never clearly been +made out, are placed at the west end of the hall. Around it +are some fine marble monuments to Lord Mayor Beckford, Lord +Nelson, the Duke of Wellington, the Earl of Chatham, and his son, +William Pitt. Note the stained glass with the armorial +bearings of the twelve great city companies; also observe, in the +passage leading to the common-council chamber, the portrait of +General Sir W. F. Williams, the heroic defender of Kars in +1855. At the top of the council chamber will be seen +Chantrey’s statue of George III.; a picture of the siege of +Gibraltar, by Copley; and Northcote’s ‘Wat Tyler +slain by Lord Mayor Walworth,’ with other pictures and +portraits. Near by are several offices for corporate and +law courts. The <i>Library</i> contains many valuable +antiquities, books, coins, pottery, &c., and some interesting +autographs. Note that of Shakespere, on a deed of purchase +of a house in Blackfriars. The <i>Crypt</i> is a curious +underground vault. On Lord Mayor’s Day the grand +dinner usually costs about £2,200. On the 18th June, +1814, when the Allied Sovereigns dined here, the gold plate was +valued at £200,000.</p> +<p><b>The Monument</b>.—This may be regarded as a corporate +structure, although it answers no useful purpose. It is a +fluted Doric column, situated in a small space of ground +adjoining the southern extremity of King William Street, on the +descent to Lower Thames Street. It was begun in 1671, and +finished in 1677, at a cost of about £14,500, in +commemoration of the Great Fire of London, which began at the +distance of 202 feet eastward from the spot, in 1666; and its +height has on that account (so we are told) been made 202 +feet. It is a handsome column, with a gilt finial intended +to represent flames of fire. Visitors are allowed to ascend +by a winding stair of 345 steps to the top; fee, 3d. No +better place can be <a name="page90"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +90</span>chosen from which to view the river, the shipping, and +the city generally.</p> +<p><b>The Royal Exchange</b>.—This is a handsome +quadrangular building on the north side of Cornhill, having in +the centre an open court with colonnades. The chief +entrance faces an open paved space on the west, on which is +placed an equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington. The +building was erected from plans by Mr. Tite, and was opened in +1844; it occupies the site of the former Exchange, which was +accidentally destroyed by fire. The pediment contains +sculptures by Sir R. Westmacott, R.A. The lower part of the +exterior is laid out as shops, which greatly injure the +architectural effect; the upper rooms are occupied as public +offices, one of which is <i>Lloyd’s</i>, or, more properly, +<i>Lloyd’s Subscription Rooms</i>, where merchants, +shipowners, shippers, and underwriters congregate. A statue +of the Queen is in the centre of the quadrangular area. The +busy time on ’Change is from 3 till 4 o’clock, +Tuesday and Friday being the principal days.</p> +<h2>THE TEMPLE; INNS OF COURT; COURTS OF JUSTICE; PRISONS.</h2> +<p>The buildings noticed in this section belong partly to the +crown, partly to the corporation of London, and partly to other +bodies.</p> +<p><b>The Temple</b>.—Contiguous to the south side of Fleet +Street is a most extensive series of buildings, comprising +several squares and rows, called the <i>Temple</i>; belonging to +the members of two societies, the <i>Inner</i> and <i>Middle +Temple</i>, consisting of benchers, barristers, and +students. This famous old place, taken in its completeness, +was, in 1184, the metropolitan residence of the Knights Templars, +who held it until their downfall in 1313; soon afterwards it was +occupied by students of the law; and in 1608 James I. presented +the entire group of structures to the benchers of the two +societies, who have ever since been the absolute owners. +The entrance to Inner Temple, from Fleet Street, consists of +nothing more than a mere gateway; the entrance to Middle Temple +was designed by Sir Christopher Wren. <i>Middle Temple +Hall</i>, 100 feet long, 42 wide, and 47 high, is considered to +have one of the finest Elizabethan <a name="page91"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 91</span>roofs in London. A group of +chambers, called <i>Paper Buildings</i>, built near the river, is +a good example of revived Elizabethan. A new <i>Inner +Temple Hall</i> was formally opened, in 1870, by the Princess +Louise. In October, 1861, when the Prince of Wales was +elected a bencher of the Middle Temple, a new <i>Library</i> was +formally opened, which had been constructed at a cost of +£13,000; it is a beautiful ornament to the place, as seen +from the river. The <i>Temple Church</i>, a few yards only +down from Fleet Street, is one of the most interesting churches +in London. All the main parts of the structure are as old +as the time of the Knights Templars; but the munificent sum of +£70,000 was spent, about twenty years ago, in restoring and +adorning it. There are two portions, the <i>Round +Church</i> and the <i>Choir</i>, the one nearly 700 years old, +and the other more than 600. The monumental effigies, the +original sculptured heads in the Round Church, the triforium, and +the fittings of the Choir, are all worthy of attention. The +north side of the church has recently been laid open by the +removal of adjoining buildings; and in their place some handsome +chambers are erected. Hard by, in the churchyard, is the +grave of Oliver Goldsmith, who died in chambers (since pulled +down) in Brick Court. The Sunday services are very fine, +and always attract many strangers. The <i>Temple +Gardens</i>, fronting the river, are probably the best in the +city.</p> +<p><i>Lincoln’s Inn</i> was once the property of the De +Lacie, Earl of Lincoln. It became an Inn of Court in +1310. The fine new hall—worth seeing—was opened +in 1845. The Chapel was built in 1621–3, by Inigo +Jones. He also laid out the large garden in Lincoln’s +Inn Fields, close by, in 1620. Lord William Russell was +beheaded here in 1683. In Lincoln’s Inn are the +Chancery and Equity Courts.</p> +<p><i>Graves Inn</i>, nearly opposite the north end of Chancery +Lane, once belonged to the Lords Gray of Wilton. It was +founded in 1357. Most of its buildings—except its +hall, with black oak roof—are of comparatively modern +date. In Gray’s Inn lived the great Lord Bacon, a +tree planted by whom, in the quaint old garden of the Inn, can +yet be seen propped up by iron stays. Charles the <a +name="page92"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 92</span>First, when +Prince Charles, was an honorary member of Gray’s Inn, and +Bradshaw, who tried him, was one of its benchers.</p> +<p><i>Sergeant’s Inn</i>, Chancery Lane, is what its name +denotes—the Inn of the sergeants-at-law. <i>Sergeants +Inn</i>, Fleet Street, is let out in chambers to barristers, +solicitors, and the general public. The last remark applies +to the other small Inns of Chancery in and about Holborn and +Fleet Street.</p> +<p>Till the new <i>Law</i> Courts are erected in Central Strand, +London has no Courts of Law well built or convenient. The +<i>Westminster Courts</i> are little better than wooden +sheds. So are the <i>Lincoln’s Inn Courts</i>. +But they still are worth a visit. At the <i>Old Bailey</i>, +near Newgate, is the <i>Central Criminal Court</i>, for the trial +of prisoners accused of crimes committed within ten miles of St. +Paul’s. Nominally, this court is free; but +practically, a small <i>douceur</i> is always extorted by the +ushers for a place. In the other courts this practice of +‘tipping’ is less common. The <i>Bankruptcy +Court</i>, in Basinghall Street, the <i>Clerkenwell Sessions +House</i>, the <i>County Courts</i>, and the <i>Police +Courts</i>, are other establishments connected with the +administration of justice; but the business of the first will +shortly be transferred westward.</p> +<p><b>The Record Office</b>.—Connected in some degree with +the Courts of Law and Equity, is the <i>New Record Office</i>, +Fetter Lane, where is deposited a vast body of unprinted +documents belonging to the state, of priceless value, including +the far-famed <i>Doomsday Book</i>; they having been previously +scattered in various buildings about the metropolis. Apply +to the deputy-keeper for an order to inspect any but state papers +of later date than 1688, for which the Home Secretary’s +special order is requisite.</p> +<p><b>Prisons</b>.—<i>Newgate</i>, the chief criminal +prison for the city and county, in the Old Bailey, was a prison +in the <i>new gate</i> of the city as early as 1218. Two +centuries after it was re-built, and in the Great Fire (1666) +burnt down. It was re-constructed in 1778–80; its +interior burnt in the Gordon ‘No Popery’ riots in +1780; and its interior again re-constructed in 1857. +Debtors are no longer confined here; the few who come under the +new law—which has almost abolished imprisonment for +debt—being sent to <i>Holloway Prison</i> <a +name="page93"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 93</span>under the new +law. Till public executions were abolished, criminals came +out for execution in the middle of the Old Bailey, through the +small iron door over which is suspended a grim festoon of +fetters. They are now hanged privately inside the +jail. The condemned cells are on the north-east side of +Newgate. To view the prison, apply to the sheriff or the +lord mayor. The chief debtors’ prison <i>was</i> the +<i>Queen’s Bench</i>, in Southwark. It is now a +<i>Military Prison</i>. The <i>City Prison</i>, Holloway, a +castellated structure, was built in 1855, as a substitute for +other and overcrowded jails in London. Other prisons are +the <i>House of Correction</i>, Cold Bath Fields, capable of +holding 1,200 prisoners; the <i>House of Correction</i>, at +Wandsworth; the <i>House of Correction</i>, Westminster; +<i>Millbank Penitentiary</i>, near the Middlesex end of Vauxhall +Bridge, which could, if wanted, hold 1,200 prisoners, and cost +£500,000; <i>Pentonville Model Prison</i>; <i>Female +Prison</i>, Brixton; <i>Surrey County Jail</i>, Horsemonger Lane, +on the top of which the infamous Mannings were hanged in 1849; +and the <i>House of Detention</i>, Clerkenwell, which the Fenians +tried to blow up. The last prison is for persons not +convicted.</p> +<h2>BANKS; INSURANCE OFFICES; STOCK EXCHANGE; CITY +COMPANIES.</h2> +<p><b>Bank of England</b>.—This large establishment is +situated north of the Royal Exchange; the narrow thoroughfare +between being <i>Threadneedle Street</i>, in which is the +principal front. This is unquestionably the greatest bank +in the world. The present structure was mostly the work of +Sir John Soane, at various periods between 1788 and 1829. +About 1,000 clerks, messengers, &c., are employed here, at +salaries varying from £50 to £1,200 per annum. +The buildings of the Bank are low, but remarkable in +appearance. In the centre is the principal entrance, which +conducts to an inner open court, and thence to the main +building. The Dividend and Transfer Offices, with which +fund-holders are most concerned, lie in the eastern part of the +building. Thus far the place is freely open to +visitors. The whole buildings and courts include an area of +about eight acres. The teller’s room shews a scene of +great activity—<a name="page94"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 94</span>clerks counting and weighing gold and +silver, porters going to and fro, and crowds of tradesmen and +others negotiating business at the counters. The other and +more private parts of the Bank can be seen only by an order from +a director. The most interesting departments are the +bullion-office, in a vaulted chamber beneath—where there +commonly are some 14 to 17 millions in bullion, as a +reserve—entering from one of the many open courts; the +treasury; the apartments in which the notes of the Bank are +printed; and the weighing-office, where coin-balances of +exquisite construction are used. In the printing department +there is a large steam-engine, which moves printing-machines, +plate-presses, and other mechanism—the whole being in +beautiful order, and forming a very interesting sight. The +Bank is guarded at night by its own watchmen, and a detachment of +Foot Guards.</p> +<p><b>Joint-Stock and Private Banks</b>.—Some of the +handsomest modern buildings in London are those belonging to the +Banking Companies. The <i>London and Westminster</i>, the +<i>London Joint-Stock</i>, the <i>Union</i>, the <i>City</i>, the +<i>Australian</i>, and numerous other Companies, have two or more +establishments each, some as many as half-a-dozen—the head +bank always being in the busy centre of trade, the +‘City.’ Some of these are elegant structures; +and all are planned with great skill in reference to interior +arrangements. The private bankers, such as Glyn, Barclays, +Lubbocks, Coutts, &c., rival the companies in the +architectural character of their banks; and some of their +establishments, such as Child’s, near Temple Bar, are +curious old places. Many have lately been rebuilt in a +substantial and handsome style.</p> +<p><b>Insurance Offices</b>.—These form another extensive +group, which has conduced much to the improved street appearance +of modern London. All the best conducted Life and Fire +Insurance Companies are wealthy; and they have devoted part of +their wealth to the construction of commodious and often elegant +offices. The <i>County</i>, the <i>Royal Exchange</i>, the +<i>Sun</i>, the <i>Phœnix</i>, the <i>Amicable</i>, the +<i>Equitable</i>, the <i>Imperial</i>, are among the most noted +of these insurance offices. The chief buildings are within +a small circle, of which the Royal Exchange is the centre; +another group is about <a name="page95"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 95</span>Fleet Street and Blackfriars; and a +western group lies in and near the Regent Street line.</p> +<p><b>Stock Exchange</b>.—This building, of which scarcely +anything can be seen on the outside, lies up a paved passage +called Capel Court, in Bartholomew Lane, on the east side of the +Bank of England. Dealers and brokers in the public funds, +and in all kinds of joint-stock shares and debentures, meet and +transact business here. They buy and sell, not only for +themselves, but for the public generally; and the amount of +business transacted every day is enormous. The +establishment is maintained by about 900 members, who pay +£10 a-year each. They endeavour to enforce strict +honesty in each other’s dealings; but they sedulously +refuse to allow a stranger even to pass the threshold of their +Temple of Wealth.</p> +<p><b>Various Commercial Buildings</b>.—A stranger has only +to look at a detailed map or a directory, to see how numerous are +the buildings, especially in the city, applied in various ways to +commerce and trading on a large scale. The <i>Trinity +House</i> on <i>Tower Hill</i>; the chambers of the building that +was once the <i>South Sea House</i>, near Leadenhall Street; +those of the large but irregular structure called <i>Gresham +House</i>, in Bishopsgate Street—are all worthy of a +glance, some for their architectural character, and all for the +importance of the work transacted in them. The <i>East +India House</i>, in Leadenhall Street, has been pulled down; +commercial chambers in great number, and let at enormous rentals, +have been built on the site.</p> +<p><b>City Companies</b>.—In nothing is the past history of +the metropolis, the memory of <i>Old</i> London, kept alive in a +more remarkable way than by the <i>City Companies</i>, or +<i>Trading Guilds</i>, which are still very numerous. All +were established with a good purpose, and all rendered service in +their day; but at the present time few have any important duties +to fulfil. The age for such things is nearly past; but the +companies have revenues which none but themselves can touch; and +out of these revenues many excellent charities are +supported. Several of the companies have halls of great +architectural beauty, or curious on account of their +antiquity. <a name="page96"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +96</span>Twelve, from their wealth and importance, are called the +<i>Great</i> Companies; and all of these have halls worthy of +note. They are the <i>Mercers’</i>, +<i>Drapers’</i>, <i>Fishmongers’</i>, +<i>Goldsmiths’</i>, <i>Skinners’</i>, <i>Merchant +Taylors’</i>, <i>Haberdashers’</i>, +<i>Salters’</i>, <i>Ironmongers’</i>, +<i>Vintners’</i>, <i>Grocers’</i>, and +<i>Clothworkers’</i>. Every year banquets are given +in the halls of these great companies—often under such +circumstances as to give political importance to them. +<i>Mercers’ Hall</i>, on the north side of Cheapside, has a +richly ornamental entrance. <i>Grocers’ Hall</i>, in +the Poultry, is remarkable rather for the age of the company +(more than 500 years) than for the beauty of the building; it is +interesting to note that the Long Parliament was entertained at +city-dinners in this hall. <i>Drapers’ Hall</i>, in +Throgmorton Street, built in 1667, replaced a structure which had +belonged to Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, in the time of Henry +VIII., and which was destroyed by the Great Fire. +<i>Fishmongers’ Hall</i>, the most majestic of the whole, +stands at the northern end of London Bridge, on the west side; it +was built in 1831, as part of the improvements consequent on the +opening of New London Bridge, on a site that had been occupied by +an older hall since the time of the Great Fire. +<i>Goldsmiths’ Hall</i>, just behind the General +Post-Office, is too closely hemmed in with other buildings to be +seen well; it is one of Mr. Hardwick’s best productions, +and was finished by him in 1835, on the site of an older +hall. <i>Skinners’ Hall</i>, Dowgate Hill, was built +(like so many others of the city halls) just after the Great Fire +in 1666; but was newly fronted in 1808. <i>Merchant +Taylors’ Hall</i>, Threadneedle Street, is the largest of +the city halls. It was rebuilt after the Great Fire, and +has long been celebrated for the political banquets occasionally +given there—this being considered the leading Tory Company, +and the Fishmongers’ the leading Whig Company. +<i>Haberdashers’ Hall</i>, near Goldsmiths’ Hall, is +quite modern; the present building having been constructed in +1855. <i>Salters’ Hall</i>, St. Swithen’s Lane, +was rebuilt in 1827. <i>Ironmongers’ Hall</i>, +Fenchurch Street, was erected in 1748, on the site of an older +structure; the banqueting-room was remodelled a few years ago +with great richness. In 1861 this company held an +<i>Exhibition of Art</i>, notable for the rarity and beauty of +the objects <a name="page97"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +97</span>collected; it was the first thing of the kind organized +among these companies, and was in all respects creditable to +those who planned and managed it. <i>Vintners’ +Hall</i>, Upper Thames Street, is small and unpretentious. +<i>Clothworkers’ Hall</i>, Mincing Lane, is an elegant +Italian Renaissance edifice, erected in 1858, from the designs of +Mr. Angell.</p> +<p>Among the minor halls are the <i>Apothecaries’</i>, +Blackfriars; <i>Stationers’</i>, behind Ludgate Hill; +<i>Armourers’</i>, Coleman Street; <i>Barber +Surgeons’</i>, Monkwell Street, (which contains some fine +paintings;) <i>Weavers’</i>, Basinghall Street; +<i>Saddlers’</i>, Cheapside; and <i>Paper +Stainers’</i>, Little Trinity Lane. At the last-named +hall an interesting exhibition of specimens of decorative +painting was held in 1864. The city companies are about +eighty altogether. Some, which tell most singularly of past +times, and of the difference between the past and the present, +are the <i>Cooks’</i>, the <i>Bowyers’</i>, the +<i>Fletchers’</i>, the <i>Woolmen’s</i>, the +<i>Scriveners’</i>, the <i>Broderers’</i>, the +<i>Horners’</i>, the <i>Loriners’</i>, the +<i>Spectacle Makers’</i>, the <i>Felt Makers’</i>, +the <i>Patten Makers’</i>, the <i>Parish Clerks’</i>, +and the <i>Fan Makers’</i> companies. All these, +except the <i>Spectacle Makers’</i> and the <i>Parish +Clerks’</i>, have now no halls. Eight others, +formerly existing, have become extinct. The only three +which are actually trading companies at the present day are the +<i>Goldsmiths’</i>, the <i>Apothecaries’</i>, and the +<i>Stationers’</i>. The Goldsmiths’ company +assay all the gold and silver plate manufactured in the +metropolis, stamp it with the ‘Hall-mark,’ and +collect the excise duty upon it for the Government; the +Apothecaries’ sell medicines, and have a certain +jurisdiction in relation to medical practice; the +Stationers’ publish almanacs, and register all copyright +books.</p> +<h2>THE RIVER; DOCKS; THAMES TUNNEL; BRIDGES; PIERS.</h2> +<p>We shall next describe certain features connected with traffic +<i>on</i>, <i>under</i>, and <i>over</i> the Thames.</p> +<p><b>The River and its Shipping</b>.—The Thames stream +rises in the interior of the country, at the distance of 138 +miles above London, and enters the sea on the east coast about +sixty miles below it. It comes flowing between low, +fertile, and village-clad banks, out <a name="page98"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 98</span>of a richly ornamented country on the +west; and, arriving at the outmost suburbs of the metropolis, it +pursues a winding course, between banks thickly lined with +dwelling-houses, warehouses, manufactories, and wharfs, for a +space of several miles, its breadth being here from an eighth to +a-third of a mile. The tides affect it for fifteen or +sixteen miles above the city; but the salt water comes no farther +than Gravesend, or perhaps Greenhithe. However, such is the +volume and depth of water, that vessels of great magnitude can +sail or steam up to London. Most unfortunately, the beauty +of this noble stream is much hidden from the spectator, there +being very few quays or promenades along its banks. With +the exception of the summit of St. Paul’s or the Monument, +and the Custom House quay, the only good points for viewing the +river are the bridges, which cross it at convenient distances, +and by their length convey an accurate idea of the breadth of the +channel. Formerly there were many light and fanciful boats +for hire on the Thames; but these are now greatly superseded by +small steamers, which convey crowds of passengers up and down the +river.</p> +<p>The part of the river between London Bridge and Blackwall, an +interval of several miles, constitutes the <i>Port</i>; and here +are constantly seen lying at anchor great numbers of +vessels. The portion immediately below the bridge is called +the <i>Pool</i>, where coal-ships are usually ranged in great +number. It is curious to watch, while passing up and down +the river, the way in which coals are transferred, by labourers +called <i>coal-whippers</i>, from the ships into barges, in which +they are conveyed to the wharfs of the several +coal-merchants. At wharfs between the Custom House and the +bridge lie numerous steam-vessels which ply to Greenwich, +Woolwich, Gravesend, Margate, and other places of resort down the +Thames; also steamers for continental ports. London, as has +already been observed, possesses no line of quays on the +river. The trade with the ships is carried on at wharfs +jutting upon the water. The Thames is placed under strict +police regulations with respect to trade; certain places being +assigned to different classes of vessels, including those which +arrive from the Tyne, Wear, and Tees with coal, and all +coasters. The trade connected with the <a +name="page99"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 99</span>Port is +mostly carried on in the closely built part of the metropolis +adjacent to the Thames. Almost the whole of this district +consists of narrow streets, environed by warehouses and offices, +making no external show, but in which an incalculable amount of +trade is transacted.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p99b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Entrance West India Docks" +title= +"Entrance West India Docks" +src="images/p99s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><b>The Docks</b>.—As a relief to the river, and for +other reasons, there are several very large <i>Docks</i>. +The lowest or most eastern are the <i>Victoria Docks</i>, in +Essex, just beyond the river Lea. They cover an area of 200 +acres, and have been the means of introducing many improvements +in the accommodation of shipping. The <i>hydraulic lift</i> +at these docks, for raising and supporting ships during repair, +is well worth looking at. Next are the <i>East India +Docks</i>, constructed in 1806; they consist of two docks and a +basin, covering 32 acres. Near these are the <i>West India +Docks</i>, the entrances to <a name="page100"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 100</span>which are at Blackwall and +Limehouse; in these large <i>depôts</i> of shipping +connected with the West India and other trade may at all times be +seen some hundreds of vessels, loading or unloading in connection +with the warehouses around. The largest of these docks is +24 feet deep, 510 feet long, and 498 wide; and, with a basin, +they cover nearly 300 acres. Farther up the river, and near +the Tower, in the district called Wapping, are the <i>London +Docks</i> and <i>St. Katharine’s Docks</i>. The +London Docks consist of one enclosure to the extent of 20 acres, +another of smaller dimensions, a basin, and three entrances from +the river. These are surrounded by warehouses for the +reception of bonded goods, and beneath the warehouses are vaults +for bonded liquors. The principal warehouse for the storing +of tobacco in bond till it is purchased and the duties paid, is +situated close beside a special dock called the Tobacco +Dock. The Tobacco Warehouse occupies no less than five +acres of ground, and has accommodation for 24,000 hogsheads of +tobacco. The sight of this extraordinary warehouse, and of +the Wine-Vaults, is not soon to be forgotten. The vaults +are arched with brick, and extend east and west to a great +distance, with diverging lines also of great length, the whole +being like the streets of an underground town. Along the +sides are ranged casks of wine to an amount apparently without +limit. There is accommodation for 65,000 pipes. These +cellars being dark, all who enter and go through them carry +lights. Admission may be had by procuring an order from a +wine-merchant to taste and examine any pipes he may have in bond: +a cooper accompanies the visitor to pierce the casks. +Besides this large vault, which principally contains port and +sherry, there are other vaults for French wines, &c. +<i>St. Katharine’s Docks</i>, between the Tower and the +London Docks, were formed in 1828, on a site which required the +removal of more than 1,200 houses and 13,000 inhabitants; the +earth obtained by the excavation was employed in raising the site +for some of the new streets and squares of Pimlico. There +are twelve acres of water area, and about as much of quays and +warehouses. On the south of the Thames are the +<i>Commercial</i> and the <i>Grand Surrey Docks</i>, the great +centre of the timber trade. The various docks are the +property of <a name="page101"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +101</span>joint-stock companies, who receive rents and dues of +various kinds for their use.</p> +<p><b>Thames Tunnel</b>.—With the view of effecting a ready +communication for wagons and other carriages, and +foot-passengers, between the Surrey and Middlesex sides of the +river, at a point where, from the constant passage of shipping, +it would be inconvenient to rear a bridge, a <i>tunnel</i> or +sub-river passage was designed by a joint-stock company. +The idea of tunnelling under the river, by the way, was not a +novel one. In 1802 a company was got up with a similar +notion, Trevethick, the inventor of the high-pressure engine, +being its engineer. It came to nought; and in 1825 Mr. +(afterwards Sir) Marc Isambard Brunel began his tunnel, at a +point about two miles below London Bridge, entering on the +southern shore at Rotherhithe, and issuing at Wapping on the +other. The water broke in in 1827, and again in 1828, when +six men perished. After all the funds were exhausted, and +the Government had advanced no less than £246,000 by way of +loan, the work, after many delays, was opened in 1843. The +total, cost was £468,000. The tunnel consisted of two +archways, 1,300 feet long, the thickness of the earth being about +15 feet between the crown of the tunnel and the river’s +bed. As a speculation—toll 1d.—it never +paid. The descent was by a deep, dirty staircase; and only +one arch was open for foot-passengers. But now that the +East London Railway Company have purchased it, a wholesome change +has come. Some 40 trains are now running backwards and +forwards through it, from Wapping to Rotherhithe, and thence to +Deptford and New Cross, and <i>vice versâ</i>. And +so, at last, the once well-nigh useless scheme, which wore out +Brunel’s heart, has been, some twenty-two years after his +death, made of great service to that part of London.</p> +<p><b>The Tower Subway</b>.—In the neighbourhood of the +Tunnel a subway has been formed, consisting of an iron tube, 7 +feet in diameter, laid below the bed of the Thames. It +belongs to a Limited Liability Company. It was commenced in +February, 1869, and opened for tramway traffic on 12th April, +1870. Being a losing speculation, the tramway cars ceased +to run on 7th December, <a name="page102"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 102</span>1870; but it was opened for +foot-passengers on the 24th of that month, and it is the +intention of the Company to continue it only as such. It is +reached at each end by a spiral staircase of 96 steps. Its +whole length is 1225 feet. A charge of ½d. is made +for each person passing through this Tunnel. The Tunnel is +well lighted up with gas, and the average heat by the thermometer +is 65 degrees.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p102b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Albert Bridge, Chelsea" +title= +"Albert Bridge, Chelsea" +src="images/p102s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><b>Bridges</b>.—The communication between the northern +and southern sections of the metropolis is maintained by means of +various bridges. Excluding <i>Albert Suspension Bridge</i>, +(between Cadogan Pier, Chelsea, and Albert Road, leading into +Battersea Park,) commenced in 1865, and not yet open, the number +is 14—as follow: 1. <i>London Bridge</i>, built by +Rennie, and opened in 1831; it is 928 feet long, and 54 wide; it +has 5 arches, of which the centre is 152 feet span, and cost, +with the approaches, £2,000,000. This is regarded as +one of the finest granite bridges in the world. <a +name="page103"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 103</span>2. +<i>South-Eastern Railway Bridge</i>, to connect the London Bridge +Station with a new terminus in Cannon Street; this bridge, having +five lines of railway, is midway between London Bridge and the +one next to be named. 3. <i>Southwark Bridge</i>, by +Rennie, was opened in 1819; it is of iron, 708 feet long, with +three magnificent arches, the centre one of 402 feet span; it was +a toll bridge, and cost £800,000. In 1865, it was +made free, and remains so, by arrangement between the Company and +the Corporation. 4. <i>Blackfriars Railway +Bridge</i>, with four lines of rail, connects the Metropolitan +Railway north of the Thames with the Chatham and Dover Railway on +the south. +<a href="images/p103b.jpg"> +<img class='clearcenter' alt= +"Blackfriars Bridge" +title= +"Blackfriars Bridge" +src="images/p103s.jpg" /> +</a>5. <i>Old Blackfriars Bridge</i>, by Mylne, was opened +in 1769; it consisted of 19 arches, and was 995 feet long. +The foundations, however, having become decayed, the bridge was +pulled down, and a magnificent new one, by Mr. Cubitt, built its +place. A wooden bridge of remarkable construction, with a +foot-way <i>over</i> the carriage-way, did duty for traffic till +the opening of Mr. Cubitt’s present structure. This +was formally done by the <a name="page104"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 104</span>Queen in person, November 6, +1869. The entire width of the new bridge is 75 feet, the +foot-paths being 15 feet each, with a fine road between them, 45 +feet in breadth from kerb to kerb. The entire length of the +bridge, including approaches, is 1,272 feet, and its centre arch +has a span of 185 feet in the clear. It has four +piers. All its iron (except the ornamental portion, which +is of cast metal) is hammered. With its handsome polished +red granite piers, Portland stone capitals, and florid Venetian +Gothic ornamentation, light-looking yet massive iron arches, +spandrils, and parapets, and its general <i>tout ensemble</i>, +new Blackfriars is, bearing all things in mind, one of the +cheapest permanent bridges thrown across the Thames. Its +total cost is under £400,000. 6. <i>Waterloo +Bridge</i>, one of the most magnificent in the world, was built +by Rennie, and was opened in 1817; it is flat from end to end, +1,380 feet long, or 2,456 with the approaches; it consists of +nine beautiful arches of 120 feet span, and cost +£1,000,000; a toll of one halfpenny per passenger yields a +very poor return on this outlay. 7. <i>Hungerford +Suspension Bridge</i> has been replaced by a fine new bridge, +partly for foot-passengers, and partly for the Charing Cross +extension of the South-Eastern Railway. 8. <i>Old +Westminster Bridge</i>, opened in 1750, is now all removed, to +make way for a beautiful new bridge of iron, with granite piers, +built by Mr. Page, opened for traffic in 1862. It is about +1,160 feet long by 85 feet wide. 9. <i>Lambeth +Bridge</i>, a wire-rope suspension bridge of economical +construction, from Westminster to near Lambeth Church, was opened +in 1862. 10. <i>Vauxhall Bridge</i>, built by Walker, +was opened in 1816; it is of iron, 798 feet long, and consists of +nine equal arches. 11. <i>Pimlico Railway Bridge</i>, +from Pimlico to the commencement of Battersea Park, connects the +Victoria Station with the Brighton and other railways. +12. <i>Chelsea Suspension Bridge</i>, very near the bridge +last named, gives easy access from Chelsea to Battersea, and is a +light and elegant structure. 13. <i>Battersea +Bridge</i> is an old wooden structure, unsightly in appearance, +inconvenient to passengers over it, and still more so to +steamboats under it. 14. <i>West London Extension +Railway Bridge</i>, opened in 1863, crosses the Thames from a +point a little above <a name="page105"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 105</span>Cremorne Gardens to Battersea town; +it is a link to connect various railways on the north of the +river with others on the south. <i>Putney Bridge</i>, +<i>Hammersmith Suspension Bridge</i>, <i>Barnes Railway +Bridge</i>, and <i>Kew Bridge</i>, may or may not be included in +this series, according to the acceptation of the indefinite word +‘Metropolis.’</p> +<p><b>Steam-boat Piers</b>.—If you wish to go eastward of +London Bridge, on the north side of the river, you will find +steam-boats at London Bridge to take you to Thames Tunnel Pier, +Limehouse, Blackwall, and North Woolwich. On the south +side, at the Surrey end of London Bridge, you can take boat for +Rotherhithe, Commercial Docks, Greenwich, Charlton, and +Woolwich. If you wish to go westward from London Bridge, on +the north side, you can take boat thence for the following +piers:—Bridge, Paul’s Wharf, Temple Stairs, Waterloo +Bridge, Hungerford Bridge, Westminster Bridge, Millbank, Pimlico, +Thames Bank, Chelsea, and Battersea; and on the south side, at +Westminster Bridge, Lambeth Stairs, Vauxhall, Battersea Park, +Wandsworth, Putney, Hammersmith Bridge, and Kew. The +steamers make an amazing number of trips each way daily, between +these several piers, at intervals varying with the season, and at +fares ranging from one penny to fourpence. For example, the +fare by the <i>Citizen</i> boats from London Bridge to +Westminster is 1d.; to Pimlico, 2d.; Chelsea and Battersea, +3d. If you wish to go <i>quickly</i> from Westminster +Bridge to London Bridge, you will avoid delays at piers by +getting one of the penny boats which run every ten minutes from +Westminster to London Bridge, only calling at Hungerford. +Steamers for Kew, in the summer, run about every half-hour from +London Bridge, calling at intermediate up-river +piers—return ticket, 1s. From Cadogan Pier, Chelsea, +you can go to Kew for 4d. And on Sundays and Mondays you +can go up as far as Richmond, if the tide allow, at half-past 10 +a.m. from Hungerford—return ticket, about 1s. 6d. For +more distant journeys, such as to Erith, Gravesend, Sheerness, +Southend, &c., by excursion steam-boats. To Gravesend +and back, the fare is 1s. 6d.; Sheerness and Southend and back, +2s. 6d. Boats generally leave Hungerford Bridge for +Gravesend and Erith <a name="page106"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 106</span>every half-hour up to 12, and leave +London Bridge at 2 and half-past 4 p.m.; they leave Hungerford +Bridge for Southend and Sheerness at various times from half-past +8, calling at London Bridge, returning in the afternoon or early +evening.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p106b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Thames Embankment" +title= +"The Thames Embankment" +src="images/p106s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><b>The Thames Embankment</b> is one of the noblest works in +the metropolis. As long ago as 1666 Sir Christopher Wren +advocated such a scheme. Till Mr. Bazalgette, the engineer +to the Metropolitan Board of Works, (who, by the way, planned the +main drainage,) came forward with his plans, there had been +scores of others, all over-costly and few practicable. The +work was virtually begun in 1862. Both south and north +embankments are now open. The former (or <i>Albert +Embankment</i>) was opened the entire length, from Westminster +Bridge to Vauxhall, on the 1st September, 1869; the latter, (or +<i>Victoria Embankment</i>,) from Westminster Bridge to +Blackfriars, in the middle of July, 1870. What the ultimate +cost will be of both these gigantic works it is for us here <a +name="page107"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 107</span>impossible +to tell. Already the metropolitan public hare paid for +their new Thames boulevard £1,650,000.</p> +<p>And now—in the case of the northern embankment, for +example—let us consider what vast difficulties have had to +be surmounted. The words of an excellent authority put the +matter very concisely as follows:—“The river had to +be dammed out for some thirty-eight acres—the mud had to be +dredged out down to the London clay—the granite walls had +to be built below low-water mark; behind these the low-level +sewer had to be constructed. Over this, again, had to come +the subway, and behind all the District Railway, which runs at an +average of about eighteen feet below the surface. It is not +known what materials were required for the railway; but what was +used for the Embankment is known. It was:—Granite, +650,000 cubic feet; brickwork, 80,000 cubic yards; concrete, +140,000 cubic yards; timber, (for cofferdam, &c.,) 500,000 +cubic feet; caissons, (for ditto,) 2,500 tons; earth filling, +900,000 cubic feet; excavation, 144,000 cubic feet; York paving, +90,000 superficial feet; broken granite, 50,000 yards +superficial. The railway works would make these totals +still more formidable. London is now the metropolis of +engineering works, but there is no part of it in which so many +and such varied and difficult kinds centre as in the Thames +Embankment. A section of it would be a study for engineers +for all time.”</p> +<p>The public foot-way had been open since July, 1868. It +was for the formal opening of the carriage-way that the Prince of +Wales, on 13th July, 1870, drove from Westminster Bridge to +Blackfriars along the Northern Embankment’s +carriage-way. This is sixty-four feet wide, and the +foot-way on the land-side is sixteen feet wide, and that on the +river-side is twenty feet wide. Along the river-side are +planted rows of trees, which in a few years will afford an +unbroken line of shade, doubtless. As the railway works +were completed sufficiently to admit of it, this main roadway has +been extended to the Mansion-House, by means of a new +street—<i>Queen Victoria Street</i>—referred to in a +former page. There is thus one broad, airy thoroughfare +between the Houses of Parliament, and the West End, and the heart +of the city.</p> +<p><a name="page108"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 108</span>It +will be obvious that though so much has been done, much yet +remains to be accomplished ere the Thames Northern Embankment is +regularly completed. The carriage-way, for the present, has +only been gravelled and macadamized. The reason is, that in +newly-made rotten earth its sinking down must be allowed for, for +some time, ere it can all be paved, like London Bridge, with +“granite pitching.” Four regular approaches +into the Strand—by way of Villiers, Norfolk, Surrey, and +Arundel Streets—have been made; and there are three other +ways which go from Westminster, Whitehall, and Blackfriars; +another is in progress from Charing Cross.</p> +<p>Starting from the western end, the Metropolitan District +Railway has already open, along this embankment, five stations, +called Westminster, Charing Cross, Temple, Blackfriars, and +Mansion House.</p> +<p>The wall of the Thames Northern Embankment just alluded to is, +to quote once more, “constructed generally of brickwork +faced with granite, and is carried down to a depth of 32½ +feet below Trinity high-water mark, the foundation being of +Portland cement concrete. The level of the roadway +generally is four feet above Trinity high-water mark, except at +the two extremities, where it rises to Westminster and +Blackfriars Bridges to an extreme height of about 20 feet above +high-water. The rising ground for both these approaches is +retained by a granite faced wall, similar in character to the +general Embankment wall.</p> +<p>“The face of the Embankment forms a graceful curve, +having a plane face to about mean high-water level, and being +ornamented above that level with mouldings, which are stopped at +intervals of about seventy feet with plain blocks of granite, +intended to carry lamp standards of cast-iron, and relieved on +the river face by bronze lions’ heads carrying mooring +rings. The uniform line of the Embankment is broken at +intervals by massive piers of granite, flanking recesses for +pontoons or landing stages for steamboats, and at other places by +stairs projecting into the river, and intended as landing-piers +for small craft. The steamboat piers occur at Westminster, +Charing Cross, and Waterloo Bridges; and those for boats midway +between Westminster and Charing Cross, and between Charing Cross +and Waterloo Bridge; and both are combined <a +name="page109"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 109</span>opposite +Essex Street. It is intended eventually to surmount the +several blocks and pedestals with groups of statuary.”</p> +<h2>FOOD SUPPLY; MARKETS; BAZAARS; SHOPS.</h2> +<p><b>Food Supply</b>.—The <i>Quarterly Review</i>, on one +occasion, illustrated, in a whimsical way, the vastness of the +system. The following is described as the supply of meat, +poultry, bread, and beer, for one year:—72 miles of oxen, +10 abreast; 120 miles of sheep, do.; 7 miles of calves, do.; 9 +miles of pigs, do.; 50 acres of poultry, close together; 20 miles +of hares and rabbits, 100 abreast; a pyramid of loaves of bread, +600 feet square, and thrice the height of St. Paul’s; 1000 +columns of hogsheads of beer, each 1 mile high.</p> +<p><b>Water and Coal Supply</b>.—The <i>water</i> used in +the metropolis is chiefly supplied by the Thames, and by an +artificial channel called the <i>New River</i>, which enters on +the north side of the metropolis. The water is naturally +good and soft. The spots at which it is raised from the +Thames used to be within the bounds of the metropolis, at no +great distance from the mouths of common sewers; but it is now +obtained from parts of the river much higher up, and undergoes a +very extensive filtration. Nine companies are concerned in +the supply of water,—viz., the <i>New River</i>, <i>East +London</i>, <i>Southwark and Vauxhall</i>, <i>West Middlesex</i>, +<i>Lambeth</i>, <i>Chelsea</i>, <i>Grand Junction</i>, +<i>Kent</i>, and <i>Hampstead Water Companies</i>. Some of +the works, within the last few years, constructed by these +companies, up the river, are very fine. Returns furnished +to the Registrar-General by the London Water Companies shewed +that the average daily supply of water for all purposes to the +London population, during the month of May, 1870, was 107,540,811 +gallons, of which it is estimated the supply for domestic +purposes amounted to about 88,381,700 gallons, or 26 gallons per +day per head of population. The metropolis is supplied with +<i>coal</i> principally from the neighbourhood of Newcastle, but +partly also from certain inland counties; the import from the +latter being by railway. Newcastle coal is preferred. +It arrives in vessels devoted exclusively to the trade; and so +many and so excessive are the duties and profits affecting the +article, that a ton of coal, which can be <a +name="page110"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 110</span>purchased +at Newcastle for 6s. or 7s., costs, to a consumer in London, from +22s. to 27s. The quantity of coal brought to London +annually much exceeds 5,000,000 tons, of which considerably more +than 2,000,000 come by railway. The wholesale dealings in +this commodity are managed chiefly at the <i>Coal Exchange</i>, a +remarkable building just opposite Billingsgate.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p110b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Smithfield Market" +title= +"Smithfield Market" +src="images/p110s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><b>Markets</b>.—London contains nearly 40 markets for +cattle, meat, corn, coal, hay, vegetables, fish, and other +principal articles of consumption. The meat-markets are of +various kinds—one for live animals, others for carcases in +bulk, and others for the retail of meat; some, also, are for +pork, and others principally for fowls. The <i>New Cattle +Market</i>, Copenhagen Fields, near Pentonville, built, in 1854, +to replace old <i>Smithfield Market</i>, covers nearly 30 acres, +and, with outbuildings, slaughterhouses, &c., cost the City +Corporation about £400,000. It is the finest live +stock market in the kingdom. The present <i>Smithfield +Market</i>, near the Holborn Viaduct, for dead meat and poultry, +is a splendid building, 625 feet <a name="page111"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 111</span>long, 240 feet wide, and 30 feet +high. Wide roads on its north, east, and west sides, +accommodate its special traffic. A carriage road runs right +through it from north to south, with spacious and well +ventilating avenues radiating from it. There are in this +market no less than 100,000 feet of available space. It has +cost upwards of £180,000 already. There are +underground communication with several railways, to bring in, +right under the market, meat and poultry from the country, and +meat from the slaughterhouses of the Copenhagen Fields Cattle +Market. <i>Newgate Market</i>, as a market, no longer +exists. <i>Leadenhall Market</i> is a <i>depôt</i> +for meat and poultry. At Whitechapel there is a meat market +also. The minor meat markets require no special note +here. <i>Billingsgate</i>, the principal fish market of +London, near the Custom House, was greatly extended and improved +in 1849. It is well worth visiting any morning throughout +the year, save Sunday, at five o’clock. Ladies, +however, will not care to encounter its noise, bustle, and +unsavoury odours. The fish arriving in steamers, smacks, +and boats from the coast or more distant seas, are consigned to +salesmen who, during the early market hours, deal extensively +with the retail fishmongers from all parts of London. The +inferior fish are bought by the costermongers, or +street-dealers. When particular fish are in a prime state, +or very scarce, there are wealthy persons who will pay enormously +for the rarity; hence a struggle between the boats to reach the +market early. At times, so many boats come laden with the +same kind of fish as to produce a glut; and instead of being sold +at a high price, as is usually the case, the fish are then +retailed for a mere trifle. Fish is now brought largely to +London by railway, from various ports on the east and south +coasts. The yearly sale of fish at Billingsgate has been +estimated at so high a sum as £2,000,000.</p> +<p><i>Covent Garden Market</i> (connected by Southampton Street +with the Strand) is the great vegetable, fruit, and flower +market. This spot, which is exceedingly central to the +metropolis, was once the garden to the abbey and convent of +Westminster: hence the name <i>Convent</i> or +<i>Covent</i>. At the suppression of the religious houses +in Henry VIII.’s reign, it devolved to the Crown. +Edward VI. gave <a name="page112"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +112</span>it to the Duke of Somerset; on his attainder it was +granted to the Earl of Bedford; and in the Russell family it has +since remained. From a design of Inigo Jones, it was +intended to have surrounded it with a colonnade; but the north +and a part of the east sides only were completed. The fruit +and vegetable markets were rebuilt in 1829–30. The +west side is occupied by the parish church of St. Paul’s, +noticeable for its massive roof and portico. Butler, author +of <i>Hudibras</i>, lies in its graveyard, without a stone to +mark the spot. In 1721, however, a cenotaph was erected in +his honour in Westminster Abbey. The election of members to +serve in Parliament for the city of Westminster was held in front +of this church: the hustings for receiving the votes being +temporary buildings. The south side is occupied by a row of +brick dwellings. Within the square thus enclosed fruit and +vegetables of the best quality are exposed for sale. A +large paved space surrounding the interior square is occupied by +the market-gardeners, who, as early as four or five in the +morning, have carted the produce of their grounds, and wait to +dispose of it to dealers in fruit and vegetables residing in +different parts of London; any remainder is sold to persons who +have standings in the market, and they retail it to such +individuals as choose to attend to purchase in smaller +quantities. Within this paved space rows of shops are +conveniently arranged for the display of the choicest fruits of +the season: the productions of the forcing-house, and the results +of horticultural skill, appear in all their beauty. There +are also conservatories, in which every beauty of the +flower-garden may be obtained, from the rare exotic to the +simplest native flower. The <i>Floral Hall</i>, close to +Covent Garden Opera House, has an entrance from the north-east +corner of the market, to which it is a sort of appendage as a +Flower Market. Balls, concerts, &c., are occasionally +given here. The <i>Farringdon</i>, <i>Borough</i>, +<i>Portman</i>, <i>Spitalfields</i>, and other vegetable markets, +are small imitations of that at Covent Garden.</p> +<p>The cultivation of vegetables in the open ground within ten +miles surrounding London, has arrived at great perfection; and so +certain is the demand, that the whole is regularly conveyed by +land or water to the metropolis; insomuch that persons residing +in <a name="page113"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 113</span>the +neighbourhood of those well-arranged gardens are really less +readily accommodated than the inhabitants of the metropolis, and +have no supply of vegetables but such as have already been sent +to London, and thence back to retailers in their own +locality. There are also large supplies of foreign fruit +and vegetables. The annual produce of the garden-grounds +cultivated to supply the London markets with fruit and vegetables +has been estimated at the enormous weight of 360,000 tons, or +1,000 tons <i>per day</i>.</p> +<p><b>Corn</b>.—The greater part of the <i>corn</i> used +for bread and other purposes in the metropolis is sold by +corn-factors at the <i>Corn Exchange</i>, Mark Lane; but the corn +itself is not taken to that place. Enormous quantities of +flour are also brought in, ground at mills in the country and in +foreign parts.</p> +<p><b>Malt liquors</b>.—The <i>beer</i> and <i>ale</i> +consumed in the metropolis is, of course, vast in quantity, +though there are no means of determining the amount. If, by +a letter of introduction, a stranger could obtain admission to +Barclay & Perkins’s or Truman & Hanbury’s +breweries, he would there see vessels and operations astonishing +for their magnitude—bins that are filled with 2,000 +quarters of malt every week; brewing-rooms nearly as large as +Westminster Hall; fermenting vessels holding 1,500 barrels each; +a beer-tank large enough to float an up-river steamer; vats +containing 100,000 gallons each; and 60,000 casks, with 200 +horses to convey them in drays to the taverns of the +metropolis!</p> +<p><b>Shops and Bazaars</b>.—The better-class London retail +shops, for wealth, variety, and vast number, are among the +greatest wonders of the place. They speak for +themselves. The wholesale establishments with which New +Cannon Street, Wood Street, and the south side of St. +Paul’s Churchyard—noticeably the gigantic warehouses +of Messrs. Cook & Co.—abound, if, by a letter of +introduction, an order of admission can be obtained, would strike +a stranger—in spite of less external display, save as +regards size—as more wonderful still, so enormous is the +amount of their business operations, and of capital incoming and +outgoing.</p> +<p>There are about 7,400 streets, lanes, rows, &c., in the +metropolis. From Charing Cross, within a six miles radius, +there are something <a name="page114"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 114</span>over 2,600 miles of streets. +As regards trades generally, it is hard even to get anything like +an approximate notion of their numbers. As the <i>Post +Office London Directory</i> says, new trades are being added to +the list every year. Thus, we are told, 57 new trades were +so added in the year 1870. But to specify a few, there are, +say, about 130,000 shopkeepers, or owners of commercial +establishments, who carry on more than 2,500 different +trades. Loss of much of London’s shipping trade, +&c., has indeed driven hundreds of emigrants of late from our +east-end waterside neighbourhoods. But London has gone on +growing all the same, and trade with it. Among these trades +are, without counting purely wholesale dealers, about 2,847 +grocers and tea dealers, 2,087 butchers, 2,461 bakers, 1,508 +dairymen, &c., 2,370 greengrocers and fruiterers, more than +595 retail fishmongers, 891 cheesemongers, (this computation does +not include the small shops in poor neighbourhoods which sell +almost everything,) 2,755 tailors, (not including about 500 +old-clothesmen, wardrobe-dealers, &c.,) about 3,347 +bootmakers, about 450 hatters, and so forth. All these are +master tradesmen or shopkeepers, irrespective of workmen, +foremen, shopmen, clerks, porters, apprentices, and +families. We may add, that in the pages of that very large +book the <i>London Post Office Directory</i>, no less than 52 +columns and over are occupied by the long list of London +publicans.</p> +<p>The principal Bazaars of London are the <i>Soho</i>, <i>London +Crystal Palace</i>, (Oxford Street,) and <i>Baker Street</i> +bazaars, to which should be added the <i>Burlington Arcade</i>, +Piccadilly, and the <i>Lowther Arcade</i>, (famous for cheap +toys,) in the Strand. The once celebrated <i>Pantheon</i>, +in Oxford Street, is now a wine merchant’s stores. +Many small bazaars exist.</p> +<p>The Bazaar system of oriental countries, in which all the +dealers in one kind of commodity are met with in one place, is +not observable in London; yet a stranger may usefully bear in +mind that, probably for the convenience both of buyers and +sellers, an approach to the system is made. For instance, +<i>coachmakers</i> congregate in considerable number in Long Acre +and Great Queen Street; <i>watchmakers</i> and <i>jewellers</i>, +in Clerkenwell; <i>tanners</i> and <a name="page115"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 115</span><i>leather-dressers</i>, in +Bermondsey; <i>bird</i> and <i>bird-cage sellers</i>, in Seven +Dials; <i>statuaries</i>, in the Euston Road; +<i>sugar-refiners</i>, in and near Whitechapel; +<i>furniture-dealers</i>, in Tottenham Court Road; +<i>hat-makers</i>, in Bermondsey and Southwark; <i>dentists</i>, +about St. Martin’s Lane; &c. There is one bazaar, +if so we may term it, of a very remarkable +character—namely, <i>Paternoster Row</i>. This street +is a continuation of Cheapside, but is not used much as a +thoroughfare, though it communicates by transverse alleys or +courts with St. Paul’s Churchyard, and, at its western +extremity, by means of Ave-Maria Lane, leads into Ludgate +Hill. Paternoster Row, or ‘the Row,’ as it is +familiarly termed, is a dull street, only wide enough at certain +points to permit two vehicles to pass each other, with a narrow +pavement on each side. The houses are tall and sombre in +their aspect, and the shops below have a dead look, in comparison +with those in the more animated streets. But the deadness +is all on the outside. For a considerable period this +street has been the head-quarters of booksellers and publishers, +who, till the present day, continue in such numbers as to leave +little room for other tradesmen—transacting business in the +book-trade to a prodigious amount. At the western extremity +of Paternoster Row a passage leads from Amen Corner to +Stationers’ Hall Court, in which is situated +Stationers’ Hall, and also several publishing-houses.</p> +<p><b>Mudie’s Library</b>.—While on the subject of +books, we may remind the visitor that the most remarkable +<i>lending library</i> in the world is situated in London. +<i>Mudie’s</i>, at the corner of New Oxford Street and +Museum Street, affords a striking example of what the energy of +one man can accomplish. At this vast establishment the +volumes are reckoned by hundreds of thousands; and the +circulation of them, on easy terms, extends to every part of the +kingdom. The chief portion of the building is a lofty +central gallery, of considerable beauty.</p> +<h2><a name="page116"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +116</span>CLUBS; HOTELS; INNS; CHOP-HOUSES; TAVERNS; +COFFEE-HOUSES; COFFEE-SHOPS.</h2> +<p><b>Club-houses</b>.—During the last forty or fifty years +new habits amongst the upper classes have led to the +establishment of a variety of <i>Club-houses</i>—places of +resort unknown to our ancestors. There are at present, +including many fifth-rate clubs, about 84 clubs in London. +A London club-house is either the property of a private person, +who engages to furnish subscribers with certain accommodation, on +paying a fixed sum as entrance-money, and a specified annual +subscription; or else it belongs to a society of gentlemen who +associate for the purpose. Of the first class, the most +noted are <i>Brookes’s</i> and <i>White’s</i>, both +situated in St. James’s Street, The second class of clubs +is most numerous: the principal among them being the +<i>Carlton</i>, <i>Junior Carlton</i>, <i>Reform</i>, +<i>Athenæum</i>, <i>Oriental</i>, <i>Conservative</i>, +<i>Travellers’</i>, <i>United University</i>, <i>Oxford and +Cambridge</i>, <i>Army and Navy</i>, <i>Guards’</i>, +<i>United Service</i>, <i>Junior United Service</i>, +<i>Union</i>, <i>Arthur’s</i>, and <i>Windham</i> +clubs. The houses belonging to these clubs respectively are +among the finest at the West-end of London, and may easily be +distinguished in and about Pall Mall, St. James’s Street, +and Waterloo Place. No member sleeps at his club; the +accommodation extends to furnishing all kinds of refreshments, +the use of a library, and an ample supply of newspapers and +periodicals in the reading-room. The real object of these +institutions is to furnish a place of resort for a select number +of gentlemen, on what are really moderate terms. The +Athenæum Club, (near the York Column,) which consists +chiefly of scientific and literary men, is one of the most +important. It has 1,200 members, each of whom pays thirty +guineas entrance-money, and seven guineas yearly +subscription. As in all other clubs, members are admitted +only by ballot. The expense of the house in building was +£35,000, and £5,000 for furnishing; the plate, linen, +and glass cost £2,500; library, £5,000; and the stock +of wine in cellar is usually worth about £4,000. The +other principal clubs vary from nine to thirty guineas +entrance-fee, from six to eleven guineas annual subscription, and +from 600 to 1,500 members. <a name="page117"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 117</span>During part of the life of the late +M. Soyer, the <i>kitchen</i> of the Reform Club-house was one of +the sights of the West-end. The <i>Garrick Club</i>, in +Garrick Street, W.C., consists chiefly of theatrical and literary +men. The same remark applies to the <i>Arundel</i>, in +Salisbury Street, Strand. The <i>Whittington Club</i>, in +the Strand, was the humblest of its class, and bore little +resemblance to the others; it was rather a literary and +scientific institution, with a refreshment department added.</p> +<p><b>The Albany</b>.—The <i>Albany</i> consists of a +series of chambers, or suites of apartments, intended for +‘West-end bachelors.’ No person carrying on a +trade or commercial occupation is allowed to live within its +limits. There are two entrances, one in Piccadilly and one +in Burlington Gardens. The chambers are placed in eleven +groups, denoted by letters of the alphabet, A to L. There +are about 60 suites of apartments, many of which are occupied by +peers, members of parliament, honourables and right honourables, +and naval and military officers. Canning, Byron, and +Macaulay, are named amongst those who have lived in this singular +place.</p> +<p><b>Hotels and Inns</b>.—It has been conjectured (though +probably in excess of the truth) that at all times there are +150,000 strangers residing for a few days only in the metropolis; +and to accommodate this numerous transient population, there is a +vast number of lodging and boarding-houses, hotels, and other +places of accommodation. There are upwards of 500 +better-class hotels, inns, and taverns. There are about 120 +private hotels not licensed, and therefore do not keep exciseable +liquors for sale. There are about 5,200 public-houses +licensed to sell wines, spirits, and malt liquors. There +are more than 1,964 beer-shops, where malt liquors only are +sold.</p> +<p>The fashionable hotels are situated west of Charing +Cross—as, for instance, <i>Claridge’s</i>, Brook +Street, Grosvenor Square; <i>Fenton’s</i>, St. +James’s Street; <i>Limmer’s</i>, George Street, +Hanover Square; the <i>Clarendon</i>, in New Bond Street; the +<i>Burlington</i>, in Old Burlington Street; +<i>Grillon’s</i>, in Albemarle Street; <i>Long’s</i>, +in Bond Street; the <i>Palace</i>, Pimlico; +<i>Wright’s</i>, Dover Street; <i>Morley’s</i>, +Trafalgar Square; <i>Hatchett’s</i>, Dover Street; +<i>Maurigy’s</i>, Regent Street; <a +name="page118"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 118</span><i>Marshall +Thompson’s</i>, Cavendish Square; the <i>Albemarle</i>, +Albemarle Street; the <i>Hyde Park</i>, near the Marble Arch; the +<i>Alexandra</i>, Hyde Park Corner; &c. In and about +Covent Garden there are several good hotels for single gentlemen; +among others, the <i>Cavendish</i>, the <i>Bedford</i>, the +<i>New</i> and <i>Old Hummums</i>, and the +<i>Tavistock</i>. One or two others, in Bridge Street, +Blackfriars, are excellent hotels. Foreign hotels of a +medium class are numerous in and about Leicester Square. +Another class of hotels or inns are those from which +stage-coaches at one time ran, and which were resorted to by +commercial and other gentlemen; for example, the <i>Golden +Cross</i>, (now renovated and extended,) near Charing Cross; the +<i>White Horse Cellar</i>, Piccadilly; the <i>Bell and Crown</i>, +Holborn; the <i>Castle and Falcon</i>, Aldersgate Street; and the +<i>Bull-in-Mouth</i>, (now called the <i>Queen’s</i>,) +opposite the General Post Office, in St. +Martin’s-le-Grand. These have all become comfortable +middle-class hotels, with railway booking-offices attached; but +the fall of the stage-coach trade has lessened their importance +to a great extent. To these we may add certain large inn +and tavern establishments at other parts of the town—such +as the <i>Bridge House Hotel</i>, at London Bridge; the +<i>Angel</i>, at Islington; and the <i>Elephant and Castle</i>, +Newington Causeway.</p> +<p>The almost universal defect of the older class of hotels in +London is, that they are too often private dwellings extemporized +for purposes of public accommodation—not buildings erected +with the distinct object for which they are used. Hence the +London hotels, generally, are confined and awkward in their +arrangements—a huddle of apartments on different levels, +narrow passages, and the offensive odour of cookery being +common. Rarely is there anything to parallel the larger +hotels of New York, or the <i>Hotel du Louvre</i> at Paris. +The nearest approach to these foreign establishments is found in +certain hotels adjoining the railway termini, of recent +construction. These are the <i>Euston</i> and <i>Victoria +Hotels</i>, near Euston terminus; the <i>Great Northern +Hotel</i>, adjoining the King’s Cross terminus; the +<i>Great Western Hotel</i>, at the Paddington <i>terminus</i>; +<i>the Grosvenor Hotel</i>, at the Pimlico terminus; the <a +name="page119"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 119</span><i>London +Bridge Terminus Hotel</i>, adjoining the Brighton Railway +terminus; the fine <i>South-Eastern Railway Hotel</i>, Cannon +Street; the <i>Westminster Palace Hotel</i>, Victoria Street, +Westminster; the <i>Midland</i>, at St. Pancras; and the +<i>Charing Cross Railway Hotel</i>. At these new and +extensive hotels the accommodation is on a better footing than in +the older and generally small houses. But notwithstanding +these additions, it is indisputable that the amount of hotel +accommodation is still meagre and defective. The want of +large good hotels in central situations, to give accommodation at +moderate charges, remains one of the conspicuous deficiencies of +the metropolis. The <i>Langham</i>, however, in Portland +Place, is an excellent hotel. So is the <i>Salisbury +Hotel</i>, Salisbury Square, Fleet Street. The idea of +building a large hotel in the Strand, near St. Mary’s +Church, was, by-the-by, abandoned in favour of the new <i>Globe +Theatre</i>; while that handsome building, the <i>Inns of Court +Hotel</i>, in Holborn and Lincoln’s Inn Fields, has never +yet been properly finished, and is now (1873) a failure.</p> +<p>In and about London, we may mention, are sundry extensive and +highly-respectable taverns, which, though principally designed +for accommodating large dining and other festive gatherings, +lodge gentlemen with every comfort. Among these may be +mentioned the <i>London Tavern</i>; the <i>Albion</i>, in +Aldersgate Street; several in Fleet Street, near Blackfriars +Bridge; the <i>Freemasons’ Tavern</i>, Great Queen Street, +Lincoln’s Inn Fields; and so forth. There is, +besides, a class of taverns whose chief business is supplying +dinners and slight refreshments, also the accommodation of +newspapers, and which are resorted to chiefly by commercial +men. Each of these has a distinct character. +<i>Garraway’s</i> and <i>Lloyd’s</i>, at the Royal +Exchange, were once coffee-houses, but now are associated with +marine intelligence, stock-trading, and auctions; and in +Cornhill, opposite, the <i>North and South American +Coffee-house</i> supplies American newspapers; and here also are +to be seen the captains of vessels who are preparing to sail to +different ports in the western continent and islands. At +the <i>Jerusalem</i> and <i>East India Coffee-house</i>, +Cowper’s Court, Cornhill, information relating to East +India shipping and captains may be obtained. +<i>Peele’s </i><a name="page120"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 120</span><i>Coffee-house</i>, in Fleet +Street, is celebrated for keeping files of newspapers, which may +be consulted; this accommodation, as respects London papers, may +also be had at some other places. Other economical +Reading-Rooms are noticed in the <i>Appendix</i>.</p> +<p><b>Chop-houses</b>, <b>Coffee-shops</b>, <b>and +Dining-rooms</b>.—The next class of houses of this nature +comprises <i>Chop-houses</i>, but also doing the business of +taverns, and resorted to chiefly by business-men—as the +<i>Chapter</i>, in Paternoster Row; the <i>Mitre</i>, the +<i>Cock</i>, the <i>Cheshire Cheese</i>, and the <i>Rainbow</i>, +in Fleet Street. Many such houses are to be met with near +the Bank of England, in Cheapside, Bucklersbury, Threadneedle +Street, Bishopsgate Street, and the alleys turning out of +Cornhill. The <i>Ship and Turtle</i>, in Leadenhall Street, +was a famous turtle-house; and others are noted for some +specialty.</p> +<p>London contains a very numerous class of <i>Coffee-shops</i>, +of a much more humble, though perhaps more useful nature, at +which coffee, cocoa, tea, bread and butter, toast, chops and +steaks, bacon and eggs, and cold meat, may be obtained at very +moderate prices; a few pence will purchase a morning or evening +meal at such places; and many working-men dine there also. +There are about 1,500 houses of this class in London. There +is another class of <i>Eating-houses</i> or <i>Dining-rooms</i>, +resorted to for dinners by large numbers of persons. +<i>Lake’s</i>, <i>His Lordship’s Larder</i>, and one +or two others, in Cheapside; <i>Izant’s</i>, and several +others in and near Bucklersbury; the <i>Chancery +Dining-rooms</i>, in Chancery Lane; the <i>Fish Ordinary</i> at +the <i>Three Tuns</i> in Billingsgate, and at +<i>Simpson’s</i> in Cheapside; and several dining-rooms in +and near the Haymarket and Rupert Street—may be reckoned +among the number. A good but simple dinner may be had at +these houses for from 1s. 6d. to 2s. 6d. At the <i>St. +James’s Hall Restaurant</i>, in Regent Street; +<i>Blanchard’s</i>, Regent Street, corner of Burlington +Street; the <i>Albion</i>, Russell Street, near Drury Lane +Theatre; the <i>London</i>, Fleet Street, nearly opposite the +Inner Temple gate; <i>Simpson’s</i>, in the Strand, +opposite Exeter Hall; and last, but by no means least, at +<i>Speirs and Pond’s Restaurant</i>, at Ludgate Station of +the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway; a very fair dinner may be +had, at prices varying <a name="page121"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 121</span>from, say, a minimum of half-a-crown +up to a greater cost, according to the state of the diner’s +tastes and finances. At the <i>Gaiety Restaurant</i>, +adjoining the Gaiety Theatre, a good dinner may be had. At +Cremorne Gardens, too, there used to be a good <i>table +d’hôte</i> for 2s. 6d.</p> +<p><b>Temperance Hotels</b>.—There are several good houses +of this character. Among others may be named <i>The +Waverley</i>, King Street, Cheapside; <i>Angus’s</i>, +Bridge Street, Blackfriars; <i>Anderson’s</i>, Theobald +Road; and <i>Ling’s</i>, South Street, Finsbury.</p> +<h2>THEATRES, CONCERTS, AND OTHER PLACES OF AMUSEMENT.</h2> +<p><b>Theatres</b>.—There are altogether in London a large +number. Of these the following are the +principal:—<i>Her Majesty’s Theatre</i>, on the +western side of the Haymarket, is the original of the two Italian +Opera Houses in London; it was built in 1790, on the site of an +older theatre, burnt down in 1867, and re-built in 1869. It +is occasionally unoccupied. The freehold of some of the +boxes has been sold for as much as £8,000 each. The +Opera Season is generally from March to August; but the main +attractions and the largest audiences are from May to July. +The <i>Royal Italian Opera House</i>, occupying the site of the +former Covent Garden Theatre, was built in 1858, on the ruins of +one destroyed by fire. The building is very remarkable, +both within and without. Under the lesseeship of Mr. Gye, +and the conductorship of Mr. (now Sir Michael) Costa, operas have +been produced here with a completeness scarcely paralleled in +Europe. When not required for <i>Italian Operas</i>, the +building is occupied usually by an <i>English Opera</i> Company, +or occasionally for miscellaneous concerts. The <i>Floral +Hall</i>, adjoining this theatre, is occasionally engaged for +concerts. <i>Drury Lane Theatre</i>, the fourth on the same +site, was built in 1812; its glories live in the past, for the +legitimate drama now alternates there with entertainments of a +more spectacular and melodramatic character. The +<i>Haymarket Theatre</i>, exactly opposite Her Majesty’s, +was built in 1821; under Mr. Buckstone’s management, comedy +and farce are chiefly performed. The <i>Adelphi +Theatre</i>, in the <a name="page122"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 122</span>Strand, near Southampton Street, was +rebuilt in 1858; it has for forty years been celebrated for +melodramas, and for the attractiveness of its comic actors. +The present lessee, Mr. Webster, has the merit of having +introduced many improvements for the comfort of the +audience. The <i>Lyceum Theatre</i>, or <i>English Opera +House</i>, at the corner of Wellington Street, Strand, was built +in 1834; it was intended as an English Opera House, but its +fortunes have been fluctuating, and the performances are not of a +definite kind. The <i>Princess’s Theatre</i>, on the +north side of Oxford Street, was built in 1830; after a few years +of opera and miscellaneous dramas, it became the scene of Mr. +Charles Kean’s Shakspearian revivals, and now resembles +most of the other theatres. <i>St. James’s +Theatre</i>, in King Street, St. James’s, was built for +Braham, the celebrated singer; it was a losing speculation to +him; and although a really beautiful theatre inside, its +managerial arrangements have been very changeable of late +years. The <i>Olympic Theatre</i>, in Wych Street, Drury +Lane, is small, but well conducted and successful. The +<i>Strand Theatre</i>, near the Olympic, has been remarkable for +its burlesque extravaganzes. The <i>New Globe Theatre</i>, +Newcastle Street, Strand, and the <i>Gaiety</i>, 345 Strand, and +lastly the <i>Vaudeville</i>, (for comedy, farce, and burlesque,) +near the <i>Adelphi</i>, are all of comparatively recent +erection; so are the <i>Court Theatre</i>, near Sloane Square; +the <i>Charing Cross Theatre</i>, King William Street; the +<i>Queen’s Theatre</i>, Long Acre, late <i>St. +Martin’s Hall</i>; and the <i>Holborn Theatre</i>. +The <i>New Royalty</i>, or <i>Soho Theatre</i>, in Dean Street, +Soho, was once a private theatre, belonging to Miss Kelly, the +celebrated actress. The <i>Prince of Wales’s +Theatre</i>, in Tottenham Street, is the old Tottenham Theatre in +a renovated and greatly improved condition. Some of Mr. T. +W. Robertson’s best comedies have been produced here within +the last few years. <i>Sadler’s Wells</i>, near the +New River Head, was at one time remarkable for the ‘real +water’ displayed in melodramas. The <i>Marylebone +Theatre</i>, between Regent’s Park and the Edgeware Road; +the <i>Grecian</i>, in the City Road; the <i>Britannia</i>, at +Hoxton; the <i>City of London</i>, in Norton Folgate; the +<i>Standard</i>, in Shoreditch; and the <i>Pavilion</i>, in +Whitechapel, are Theatres noticeable for the large numbers of <a +name="page123"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 123</span>persons +accommodated, and the lowness of the prices of admission. +On the Surrey side of the Thames are <i>Astley’s +Amphitheatre</i>, in the Westminster Road, (the Circus is now +removed;) the <i>Victoria Theatre</i>, in the Waterloo Road; and +the <i>Surrey Theatre</i>, in Blackfriars Road. The +performances at these several theatres commence at an hour +varying from half-past six (some of the minors) to half-past +eight (two Opera houses) in the evening, but the most usual hour +is seven; and, as a general rule, there is half-price at a later +hour in the evening. During the run of the Christmas +pantomimes there are a few additional performances at two in the +afternoon. It has recently been estimated that 4,000 +persons are employed at the London theatres, earning daily food +for probably 12,000; and that the public spend about +£350,000 at those places annually.</p> +<p><b>Concerts</b>.—The principal Concert Rooms in London +are, <i>Exeter Hall</i>, <i>St. James’s Hall</i>, +<i>Hanover Square Rooms</i>, the <i>Music Hall</i>, in Store +Street, the <i>Floral Hall</i>, <i>Willis’ Rooms</i>, and +the <i>Queen’s Concert Room</i>, attached to Her +Majesty’s Theatre. All these places are engaged for +single concerts; but there are also musical societies and choral +bodies which give series of concerts every year. Among +these are the <i>Sacred Harmonic Society</i>, (Exeter Hall,) the +<i>National Choral Society</i>, (same place,) the <i>Philharmonic +Society</i>, (Hanover Square Rooms,) <i>Mr. Henry Leslie’s +Choir</i>, the <i>New Philharmonic</i>, (St. James’s Hall,) +the <i>Musical Society</i>, the <i>Musical Union</i>, the <i>Glee +and Madrigal Society</i>, the <i>Beethoven Society</i>, the +<i>Monday Popular Concerts</i>, &c. The <i>Oratorio</i> +performances at Exeter Hall, by the Sacred Harmonic and National +Choral Societies, are considered to be the finest of the kind in +Europe. There are occasional <i>Handel Choral Meetings</i> +at the same place, under Sir Michael Costa, supported by 1,600 +singers.</p> +<p><b>Tavern Music Halls</b>.—Numerous Rooms connected with +taverns have been opened in London, within the last few years, +for musical performances. The music is a singular compound +of Italian, English, and German operatic compositions, fairly +executed, with comic songs of the most extravagant kind; to these +are added what the performers please to term ‘nigger’ +dances, and athletic and rope-dancing feats—the whole +accompanied by drinking and <a name="page124"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 124</span>smoking on the part of the +audience. The chief among these places are, <i>Canterbury +Hall</i>, near the Westminster Road; the <i>Oxford</i>, in Oxford +Street; the <i>Royal Music Hall</i>, late <i>Weston’s</i>, +in Holborn; the <i>Alhambra</i>, in Leicester Square; the +<i>Philharmonic</i>, Islington, near the <i>Angel</i>. +<i>Evans’</i>, in Covent Garden, does not as a rule admit +females, though ladies, friends of the proprietor, &c., are +occasionally allowed to look down on the proceedings from +wired-in private boxes above the line of the stage. +<i>Evans’</i> has long been honourably known for its old +English glees, catches, madrigals, &c., good supper, and +gentlemanly arrangements and audiences. The <i>Raglan</i>, +the <i>Winchester</i>, the <i>South London</i>, and others, are +of plainer character. Charge, usually 6d. to 1s. Mr. +Morton, the former proprietor of <i>Canterbury Hall</i>, provided +a capital gallery of pictures, (<i>Punch’s</i> ‘Royal +Academy over the Water,’) placed freely open to the +visitors to the Music Hall.</p> +<p><b>Entertainments</b>.—There is a class of London +amusements, called <i>Entertainments</i>, which has come much +into fashion within a few years. They generally last about +two hours, from eight till ten in the evening. The late Mr. +Albert Smith was one of the first to commence these +entertainments, with his ‘<i>Overland Route</i>,’ +‘<i>Mont Blanc</i>,’ and ‘<i>China</i>;’ +and the names of other well known entertainers are, Mr. Woodin, +Mr. and Mrs. German Reed, Mr. John Parry, Mr. A. Sketchley, Mr. +and Mrs. Howard Paul, &c. Delineation of character, +painted scenery, descriptive sketches, singing, music, +ventriloquism—some or all of these supply the materials +from which these entertainments are got up. Sometimes the +<i>programme</i> of performances is of a less rational character, +depending on the incongruities of so-called negro melodists; +while occasionally a higher tone is adopted, as in +‘<i>Readings</i>,’ by various persons. The +principal halls or rooms in which these entertainments are held +are the <i>Egyptian Hall</i>, Piccadilly; the <i>Gallery of +Illustration</i>, Regent Street; the minor rooms at <i>St. +James’s Hall</i>; and the <i>Music Hall</i>, in Store +Street. The prices of admission generally vary from 1s. to +3s. The leading pages of the daily newspapers, and more +especially of the <i>Times</i>, will always shew which of these +entertainments are open at any particular time.</p> +<p><a name="page125"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +125</span><b>Miscellaneous Amusements</b>.—The sources of +information just mentioned will also notify particulars of +numerous other places of amusement, which need not be separately +classified. Among these are the <i>Polytechnic +Institution</i>, Regent Street, (famous for Mr. Pepper’s +‘Ghosts;’) and <i>Madame Tussaud’s Waxwork</i>, +Baker Street, Portman Square, (a favourite exhibition with +country visitors.) To all such places the charge of +admission is 1s. Among <i>Pleasure Gardens</i>, for music, +dancing, tight and slack rope performances, &c., <i>Cremorne +Gardens</i>, at Chelsea, <i>St. Helena Gardens</i>, at +Rotherhithe, the <i>Riverside Gardens</i>, at North Woolwich, and +the <i>Surrey Gardens</i>, near Walworth, are the principal; +<i>Vauxhall Gardens</i> have disappeared as places of amusement, +and have been supplanted by bricks and mortar. The +so-called <i>Tea Gardens</i> are much more numerous, and are +supported rather by the profit on the beverages sold, than by the +fee charged for admission.</p> +<p>A few additional particulars concerning <i>Free +Exhibitions</i>, <i>Shilling Exhibitions</i>, and Exhibitions +available only by Introduction, are given in the +<i>Appendix</i>.</p> +<h2>PARKS AND PUBLIC GROUNDS; ZOOLOGICAL, BOTANICAL, AND +HORTICULTURAL GARDENS.</h2> +<p>Much has been done within the last few years towards adorning +the metropolis with health-giving parks and grounds freely open +to the public. The gardens of three scientific societies, +gradually brought into a very attractive state, are also +accessible, though not without payment.</p> +<p><b>St. James’s Park</b>.—This is so called from +St. James’s Palace, which partly bounds it on the +north. Originally these grounds were a marshy waste, which +was drained and otherwise improved by Henry VIII.; who also took +down an ancient hospital dedicated to St. James, and built on its +site the palace now called St. James’s. Charles II. +improved the grounds by planting the avenues of lime-trees on the +north and south sides of the park; and by forming the +<i>Mall</i>, which was a hollowed, smooth, gravelled space, half +a mile long, skirted with a wooden border, for playing at +ball. The southern avenue was appropriated to aviaries; <a +name="page126"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 126</span>hence it +derived the appellation Birdcage Walk. The centre of the +park was occupied by canals and ponds for aquatic birds. +William III. threw the park open to the public for their +recreation. Within the last thirty years the park has been +greatly improved. It is nearly a mile and a-half in +circumference, and covers about 90 acres; and the avenues form +delightful shady promenades. In the centre is a fine piece +of water, interspersed with islands, and dotted with swans and +water-fowl; a bridge was built across this water in 1857. +On each side are spacious lawns, enriched with lofty trees and +flowering shrubs. The lawns are separated from the avenues +by iron railings, and at different parts are keepers’ +lodges. There are nine or ten entrances to the park, the +Queen’s Guard doing duty at each, day and night. At +the east side is a large gravelled space, called the +<i>Parade</i>, on which, about ten o’clock every morning, +the body-guards required for the day are mustered—and here +the regimental bands perform for a time in fine weather. +Here also guns are fired on state occasions. At the south +side of the parade is placed a huge mortar, brought from Spain, +where it was used during the Peninsular war; it can propel a +bombshell nearly four miles. At the north end of the parade +is a piece of Turkish ordnance, of great length, brought from +Alexandria, in Egypt. A little farther north from the +parade is a broad flight of steps, giving entrance to the park +from Waterloo Place, constructed by order of William IV.; these +steps are surmounted by a lofty column, commemorative of the late +Duke of York, which occupies the spot where formerly stood +Carlton House, the favourite residence of George IV. while Prince +Regent. (Near here the band of the Commissionaires plays on +summer evenings.) Farther along the Mall, or avenue, is +Marlborough House; next to which is St. James’s Palace, +separated by Stafford House from the Green Park. At the +western end is Buckingham Palace; and on the southern side, +Birdcage Walk, and the Wellington Barracks. This park, all +things considered, is one of the greatest ornaments to the +metropolis. The lake or water is a famous skating-place in +winter; and having been brought to a maximum and nearly uniform +depth of four feet, there is little danger of drowning by the +breakage of the ice.</p> +<p><a name="page127"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +127</span><b>The Green Park</b>.—This park, less attractive +than St. James’s, and occupying about 60 acres, rises with +a gentle slope to the north of Buckingham Palace, and is bounded +on its east side by many fine mansions of the +nobility—including those of the Duke of Sutherland, and the +Earls Spencer, Ellesmere, and Yarborough. In a +north-westerly direction from the palace is a broad road called +Constitution Hill, connecting St. James’s Park with Hyde +Park Corner. On the north is the line of terrace-like +street forming the western portion of Piccadilly. The whole +of the Green Park is surrounded by iron railings, and is +interesting from its undulating grassy surface, which rises +considerably on the north side. From the highest ground +there is a pleasing prospect of Buckingham Palace, and of St. +James’s Park, with its ornamental grounds and avenues of +tall trees; and behind these Westminster Abbey and the new Houses +of Parliament majestically rise, accompanied by the turrets of +other buildings. At the north-west angle of the park, where +Constitution Hill joins Piccadilly, is a triumphal arch of the +reign of George IV., elaborately decorated, but possessing little +general effect. The largest equestrian statue in England, +that of the Duke of Wellington, stands on this arch; where it was +placed in defiance of the opinion of persons of taste, who +protested against the incongruity of such an arrangement. +Across the way is the handsome entrance to Hyde Park, close to +Apsley House, the great Duke’s residence; and here, in the +after-part of the day, in fine weather, may be seen an +extraordinary concourse of foot-passengers, vehicles, and +equestrians, going to and returning from Hyde Park; also the +general traffic between Piccadilly and Kensington, Brompton, and +other places in a westerly direction.</p> +<p><b>Hyde Park</b>.—This fine open place is part of the +ancient manor of Hida, which belonged to the monastery of St. +Peter, at Westminster, till Henry VIII. appropriated it +differently. Its extent is about 390 acres, part of which +is considerably elevated. The whole is intersected with +noble roads and paths, and luxuriant trees, planted singly or in +groups, presenting very diversified prospects. Near the +south-east corner, the entrance from Piccadilly, on an elevated +pedestal, stands a colossal bronze statue of Achilles, cast <a +name="page128"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 128</span>from the +cannon taken at the battles of Salamanca and Waterloo, weighing +thirty tons, and (as the inscription informs us) ‘erected +to the Duke of Wellington and his companions in arms by their +countrywomen.’ +<a href="images/p128b.jpg"> +<img class='clearcenter' alt= +"Knightsbridge, Albert Gate, Hyde Park, &c. (Brompton and +Kensington Roads in the distance.)" +title= +"Knightsbridge, Albert Gate, Hyde Park, &c. (Brompton and +Kensington Roads in the distance.)" +src="images/p128s.jpg" /> +</a>It cost £10,000, and was the work of Sir R. +Westmacott. The south-east entrance to the park, near +Apsley House, is marked by a handsome series of arches and +balustrades, from the designs of Mr. Decimus Burton. The +north-east entrance, at the end of Oxford Street, now comprises +the <i>Marble Arch</i>, removed from the front of Buckingham +Palace. The other entrances, of which there are several, +are less ornate. The long sheet of water <a +name="page129"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 129</span>called the +<i>Serpentine</i> enriches the scenery of Hyde Park. Near +its western extremity is a stone bridge, of five large and two +smaller arches, erected in 1826, giving access to the gardens of +Kensington Palace; and the portion of the Serpentine contained +within the gardens has lately been rendered very attractive, by +the formation, at its head, of a small Italian garden, with +fountains, statuary, &c. The carriage-drive on the +northern bank of the Serpentine is called the <i>Ladies’ +Mile</i>. On the level space of Hyde Park troops of the +line and volunteers are occasionally reviewed. There is a +well-stored magazine near the western side. The broad road +through the park to Kensington is denominated Rotten Row, and is +a fashionable resort for equestrians of both sexes, but is not +open to wheel-carriages. Other roads display countless +elegant equipages of wealth and fashion; while the footpaths, +which are railed off from the roads, are favourite places of +resort for visitors, who enjoy the salubrity of the air, and the +gaiety of the scene, more particularly between five and seven on +a summer afternoon. There are several entrances open from +early morning till ten at night. No stage or hackney +coaches, carts, or waggons, are permitted within the gates of +Hyde Park—with the exception of a road-way, made at the +time of the International Exhibition in 1862, and since kept up, +across the park, near Kensington Gardens, for +passenger-vehicles. The Serpentine is much frequented for +bathing and skating. It has been recently cleaned out, and +drained to that end; the Royal Humane Society have a +receiving-house near at hand, to aid those whose lives may be +endangered. The morning and evening hours for bathing are +defined by regulations placarded in various places. The +Great Exhibition of 1851, the first of its kind, was held in a +Crystal Palace near the south-west corner of the park. The +Exhibition building of 1862 was beyond the limits of the +park. The <i>Albert Memorial</i> is at the Kensington end +of Hyde Park.</p> +<p><b>London International Exhibition</b>.—Not far beyond +Prince’s Gate, Hyde Park, is the London International +Exhibition of 1873, which opened on the 1st May, and will +continue open till the 30th September of this year. The +ground plan and the view of the building which we give will save +unnecessary expenditure of our <a name="page130"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 130</span>space, which is obviously +limited. +<a href="images/p130b.jpg"> +<img class='clearcenter' alt= +"Ground Plan" +title= +"Ground Plan" +src="images/p130s.jpg" /> +</a>Among the many objects of interest are shewn selected +specimens as follows:—Pictures, Oil and Water Colour; +Sculpture; Decorative Furniture, Plate, Designs, Mosaics, +&c.; Stained Glass; Architecture and Models; Engravings; +Lithography; Photography as a Fine Art; Porcelain; Earthenware of +all kinds; Terra-Cotta and Stoneware; Machinery used for Pottery +of all kinds; Woollen Manufactures; Carpets; Worsted +Manufactures; Machinery, in motion, used in Woollen and Worsted +<a name="page131"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +131</span>Manufactures; Live Alpacas, remarkable for their hair +and wool, and other animals; Educational Works and Appliances; +Scientific Inventions and Discoveries; Horticulture. In the +Royal Albert Hall musical art is represented daily.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p131b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"London International Exhibition, 1873" +title= +"London International Exhibition, 1873" +src="images/p131s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><b>Kensington Gardens</b>.—At the western extremity of +Hyde Park lie Kensington Gardens, a large piece of ground laid +out in the ornamental park style, interspersed with walks, and +ornamented with rows and clumps of noble trees. Besides +entrances from Hyde Park, there are others from the Knightsbridge +and Bayswater Roads. Near the west end of the grounds +stands Kensington Palace. The gardens have been more than +once considerably extended, so that they now measure about two +and a-half miles in circumference. There are some beautiful +gates on the south side, which were contributed by the Coalbrook +Dale Company to the Great Exhibition of 1851. These grounds +form a most delightful public promenade during fine weather; +especially on summer evenings, when one of the Guards’ +bands frequently plays near the south-east corner.</p> +<p><a name="page132"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +132</span><b>Regent’s Park</b>.—This beautiful park +is situated considerably away from the other parks, in a +northerly direction from the Marylebone Road. It consists +of a nearly circular enclosure of about 470 acres, laid out on +the approved principles of landscape gardening; its centre is +enriched with lakes, plantations, shrubberies, and beds of +flowers. Many of the Metropolitan Volunteer Rifle Corps +exercise and drill in this park, in all except the winter +months. The park is surrounded by extensive ranges of +buildings, forming terraces, variously designated, and decorated +with sculpture in agreement with their respective orders of +architecture: producing an effect of much grandeur, though, in +some instances, of questionable taste. Three or four +isolated mansions occupy sites within the park. The outer +drive is two miles in circuit; the inner drive is a perfect +circle, with two outlets. At Mr. Bishop’s +Observatory, near this inner circle, Mr. Hind made most of his +important discoveries of asteroids and comets. Near the +south-eastern corner of the park the <i>Colosseum</i> stands +conspicuous. It is now closed. The Zoological and +Botanical Gardens will be described presently. Some +distance north of the Colosseum are St. Katharine’s +Hospital and Chapel—a very luxurious provision for +‘six poor bachelors and six poor spinsters.’ +Near the Colosseum was the once celebrated exhibition called the +<i>Diorama</i>, which was some years ago converted into a Baptist +chapel, at the cost of Sir Morton Peto.</p> +<p><b>Primrose Hill</b>.—This spot now deserves to be +ranked among the public parks of London. It is immediately +north of the Regent’s Park. The Crown owned part of +it, and obtained the rest by purchase from Eton College. +The hill-top, the grassy slopes, and the gravelled paths are kept +in excellent order; and a stranger should not lose an opportunity +of viewing the ‘world of London’ from this spot in +early morning. By permission of the authorities, a +refreshment-room has been established for visitors; and a +‘Shakspeare Oak’ planted, April 23, 1864, which, +however, “came to grief.”</p> +<p><b>Victoria Park</b>.—This, the only park in the east or +poorer division of London, consists of about 270 acres. +Having been formed only a few years, the trees have not yet grown +to a full size; but it is gradually becoming a pleasant spot, +with flower-beds, lakes, walks, <a name="page133"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 133</span>and shady avenues. This park +is especially distinguished by possessing the most magnificent +<i>Public Fountain</i> yet constructed in the metropolis; it was +provided by the munificence of Miss Burdett Coutts, at a cost of +£5,000; the design, due to Mr. Darbyshire, is that of a +Gothic structure, crowned by a cupola 60 feet high. Being +near the densely populated districts of Bethnal Green and Mile +End, the park is a great boon to the inhabitants. It lies +between those districts and Hackney, and easy access to it can be +obtained from two stations on the North London +Railway—those of Hackney and Hackney Wick, or Victoria +Park. The fountain just mentioned is near the Hackney +entrance. Improved access is also opened from Whitechapel, +from Mile End, and from Bow.</p> +<p><b>Battersea Park</b>.—This park, of about 180 acres, on +which £300,000 has been spent, lies between Vauxhall and +Battersea, and is the only public park which comes down to the +Thames. Nothing can exceed the change exhibited on this +spot. Until recently it was a miserable swamp, called +Battersea Fields; now it is a fine park, interesting to look at, +and healthful to walk in. A beautiful suspension bridge, +from the designs of Mr. Page, connects this park with Chelsea, on +the other side of the river; and near it is another bridge for +railway traffic.</p> +<p><b>Kennington Park</b>.—A few years ago there was an +open common at Kennington, dirty and neglected, and mostly held +in favour by such classes as those which held the Chartist +meeting in 1848. It is now a prettily laid-out public +park—small, but well kept.</p> +<p><b>Finsbury Park</b>, Stoke Newington, near Alexandra Park, +was opened in August, 1869.</p> +<p><b>Southwark Park</b> was opened about the same time. +Though small, they are great boons to the working classes.</p> +<p><b>Zoological Gardens</b>.—At the northern extremity of +the Regent’s Park are the <i>Zoological Gardens</i>, the +property of the Zoological Society, and established in +1826. These gardens are very extensive; and being removed +from the dingy atmosphere, noise, and bustle of London, present +an agreeable and country-like aspect. The grounds have been +disposed in picturesque style—here a clump of shrubby trees +and border of flowers, indigenous and exotic; there <a +name="page134"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 134</span>a pretty +miniature lake; and at intervals a neat rustic cottage, with +straw-thatched roof and honeysuckled porch. Much of the +ground, also, is occupied as green meadows, either subdivided +into small paddocks for deer and other quadrupeds, or dotted with +movable trellis-houses, the abodes of different kinds of birds +which require the refreshing exercise of walking on the green +turf. Throughout the whole, neat gravel-walks wind their +serpentine course, and conduct the visitor to the +carnivora-house, reptile-house, bear-pit, monkey-house, aviaries, +aquaria, and other departments of the establishment. The +collection of animals is unquestionably the finest in +England. The gardens are open every week-day, from 9 till +sunset, for the admission of visitors, who pay 1s. each at the +gate, or 6d. on Mondays. On Saturday afternoon, in summer, +one of the Guards’ bands generally plays for an hour or +two. On Sunday Fellows are admitted, and non-Fellows by a +Fellow’s order.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p134b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Zoological Gardens" +title= +"Zoological Gardens" +src="images/p134s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><b>Botanical Gardens</b>.—These are also situated in the +Regent’s Park, occupying the chief portion of the space +within the inner circle. <a name="page135"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 135</span>They belong to the Botanical +Society, and contain a very choice collection of trees, shrubs, +flowers, and plants generally. Admission by strangers can +only be obtained through the medium of the members, or +occasionally on the payment of rather a high fee. On the +days of the principal flower and plant shows, these gardens are +especially distinguished by the display of aristocratic fashion +and beauty.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p135b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Horticultural Gardens" +title= +"Horticultural Gardens" +src="images/p135s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><b>Horticultural Gardens</b>.—These beautiful new +grounds are objects of attraction on many accounts—their +merit in connection with garden architecture, the interest +attending the flower-shows there held, and the special relation +existing between the grounds and the Exhibitions at +Brompton. You can enter them by the gates in Exhibition +Road and Prince Albert Road, South Kensington. A few years +ago, besides an office in London, the society had only facilities +at Chiswick for holding the great flower-shows. The present +arrangement is in all respects a superior one. Twenty acres +of land were purchased or rented from the Commissioners of <a +name="page136"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 136</span>the Great +Exhibition of 1851, between the Kensington and Brompton Roads; +the subscribers of the purchase-money being admitted to +membership on favourable conditions. The ground is laid out +in three terraces, rising successively in elevation, and +surrounded by Italian arcades open to the gardens. There +are also cascades and waterworks. The highest terrace has a +spacious conservatory, to form a winter-garden. Mr. Sidney +Smith is the architect. The last Great Exhibition building +was so planned as to form a vast southern background to the +gardens; and the latter were spread out in all their beauty, as +seen from certain points in the former. During the summer +months the gardens are open on certain occasions to the public by +paying, the days and terms being duly advertised in the +newspapers and journals. Near these gardens is the towering +<i>Royal Albert Hall of Science and Art</i>, which was formally +opened by Queen Victoria, on the 29th of March, 1871. The +fact of 8,000 people attending within one building to witness the +opening of it, will shew its vast size. The sum of +£200,000, up to that date, had been expended on it. +The Hall, in some sense, has been erected in memory of the late +Prince Consort, whose aspirations, during his honourable life +here, were always towards whatever tended to the moral and +intellectual culture of the people of this country. The +management of the undertaking is entrusted to the energetic +attention of the scientific men to whom we owe the South +Kensington Museum.</p> +<h2>OMNIBUSES; TRAMWAYS; CABS; RAILWAYS; STEAMERS.</h2> +<p><b>Omnibuses</b>.—Very few indeed of the regular +old-fashioned coaches are now to be seen in London. Most of +the places within twenty miles of the metropolis, on every side, +are supplied with omnibuses instead. The first omnibus was +started by Mr. Shillibeer, from Paddington to the Bank, July 4, +1829. From a return with which, by the courtesy of Colonel +Henderson, C.B., Commissioner of the Metropolitan Police, +Scotland Yard, we were kindly favoured, we gathered, that up to +date of the communication in question,—viz., 28th June, +1870,—the number of such vehicles licensed in the +Metropolitan district was 1,218. Every omnibus and hackney +<a name="page137"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 137</span>carriage +within the Metropolitan district and the City of London, and the +liberties thereof, has to take out a yearly license, in full +force for one year, unless revoked or suspended; and all such +licenses are to be granted by the Commissioners of Police, whose +officers are constantly inspecting these public vehicles. +Generally speaking, each <i>omnibus</i> travels over the same +route, and exactly the same number of times, day after day, with +the exception of some few of the omnibuses which go longer +journeys than the rest, and run not quite so often in winter as +in summer. Hence the former class of omnibus comes to be +associated with a particular route. It is known to the +passengers by its colour, the name of its owner, the name given +to the omnibus itself, or the places to and from which it runs, +according to circumstances. The designations given to the +omnibuses, whether meaning or unmeaning in themselves, are found +to be very convenient, because they are generally written in +large conspicuous characters. This being an important +matter to strangers, we shall give a condensed list of some of +the chief omnibus routes in London in the <i>Appendix</i>.</p> +<p>Large omnibuses, to work on <i>street tramways</i>, after +having been tried within the last few years, having evoked angry +discussion between opponents and defenders, and having been +entirely withdrawn, have now been revived, from Brixton Church to +Kennington Gate, on the Mile End and Whitechapel Roads, City +Road, Kingsland, &c., &c., and are rapidly extending.</p> +<p>There are, to a male visitor, few better ways of getting a +bird’s-eye view of London than by riding outside an omnibus +from one end of London to the other, as, according to the omnibus +taken, the route can be greatly varied.</p> +<p><b>Cabs</b>.—These convenient vehicles have completely +superseded the old pair-horse hackney-coaches in London; no +vehicle of the kind being now ever seen. There are, +according to the return above quoted, 6,793 of the modern +single-horse hackney-coaches in the metropolis +altogether—of two different kinds, +‘four-wheelers’ and ‘Hansoms,’ (named +after the patentee.) The ‘four-wheelers’ are +the more numerous; they have two seats and two doors; they carry +four persons, and are entirely enclosed. The +‘Hansoms’ have two <a name="page138"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 138</span>very large wheels, one seat to +accommodate two persons, and are open in front; the driver is +perched up behind, and drives his vehicle at a rapid rate.</p> +<p><b>Railways</b>.—If omnibuses and cabs are more +important than railways to strangers while <i>in</i> London, +railways are obviously the most important of the three when +coming to or departing from London. The following are a few +particulars concerning such railways as enter the metropolis.</p> +<p><i>London and North-Western Railway</i> has its terminus just +behind Euston Square. The noble portico in front—by +far the finest thing of the kind connected with railway +architecture—has been rendered ridiculous by the +alterations in the buildings behind it; for it is now at one +corner of an enclosed court, instead of being in the centre of +the frontage. A new hall leading to the booking-offices, +finished in 1849, is worthy of the great company to which it +belongs; the vast dimensions, the fine statue of George +Stephenson, and the <i>bassi-rilievi</i> by Thomas, render it an +object deserving of a visit. This station is the London +terminus of a system exceeding 1,446 miles.</p> +<p>The <i>Midland Railway</i> has a magnificent terminus in the +Euston Road, and a junction with the Metropolitan line. It +has already more than 800 miles open.</p> +<p><i>Great Northern Railway</i> has its terminus at King’s +Cross—a building more remarkable for novelty than for +beauty. This company, a severe competitor to some of older +date, has few stations near London; but the directness of the +line of railway renders it important as an outlet to the +north. A good hotel is contiguous to the terminus. +The goods’ depôt has become famous for the vast +quantity of coal brought to the metropolis.</p> +<p><i>Great Western Railway</i> has its terminus at Paddington, +where a fine new station was built a few years ago. A style +of arabesque polychrome decoration has been adopted, not seen at +other metropolitan stations. Paddington is the +head-quarters of the broad-gauge system, which extends to +Weymouth in one direction, to Truro in a second, to Milford Haven +in a third, and to Wolverhampton in a fourth; but some of the +broad-gauge lines belong to <a name="page139"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 139</span>other companies; while, on the other +hand, this company has adopted the double-gauge on about 400 +miles of its line. The terminus has a splendid new hotel +adjoining it.</p> +<p><i>West London Railway</i> (now better known as the <i>West +London Extension Railway</i>) can hardly be said to have an +independent commercial existence. It was an old and +unsuccessful affair, till taken up by four of the great +companies, and enlarged in an important way. It now +includes a railway bridge over the Thames at Battersea; it is +connected with the London and North-Western, the Great Western, +and the Metropolitan, on the north, and with the South-Western, +the Brighton, and the Chatham and Dover, on the south. +There are stations at Kensington, Chelsea, and Battersea.</p> +<p><i>Hammersmith and City Junction Railway</i> crosses the +last-named line at Shepherds’ Bush, and joins the Great +Western at Kensal New Town, a mile or two beyond Paddington.</p> +<p><i>North and South-Western Junction Railway</i> is, perhaps, +valuable rather as a link between the greater railways, than as +an independent line. It joins the North London at Camden +Town, and the South-Western at Kew; and has stations at Kentish +Town, Hampstead, Finchley New Road, Edgeware Road, Kensal Green, +Acton, and Hammersmith. It establishes through trains with +other companies; and although it has no actual London terminus of +its own, it is a great convenience to the western margin of the +metropolis, for the fares are low.</p> +<p><i>South-Western Railway</i> has its terminus in the Waterloo +Road, which has been placed in connection with the London Bridge +Station. The main lines of the company extend to Portsmouth +in one direction, Dorchester in another, and Exeter in a third; +while there is a multitude of branches—from Wimbledon to +Croydon, from Wimbledon to Epsom and Leatherhead, from Wandsworth +to Richmond and Windsor, from Barnes to Hounslow, from Staines to +Reading, &c. There is no good hotel whatever near the +Waterloo or Vauxhall Stations—a defect which seems to need +a remedy.</p> +<p><i>Victoria and Crystal Palace Railway</i> is a concern in +which so <a name="page140"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +140</span>many companies have an interest, that it is not easy to +define the ownership. The Victoria Station, within a +quarter of a mile of the Queen’s Palace, Pimlico, is very +large, but certainly not very handsome. The <i>Grosvenor +Hotel</i>, attached to it, may rank among the finest in the +metropolis. The Brighton, the Chatham and Dover, and the +Great Western, are accommodated at this station, where both the +broad and narrow gauges are laid down. The railway leads +thence, to join the Brighton at Sydenham and Norwood, by a +railway-bridge across the Thames; it has stations at Battersea, +Wandsworth, Balham, Streatham, Norwood, and the Crystal Palace; +and throws off branches to meet the lines of the other three +companies above named.</p> +<p><i>London</i>, <i>Brighton</i>, <i>and South Coast Railway</i> +has for its terminus a portion of the great London Bridge +Station, contiguous to which a hotel has been constructed. +It also has termini at Victoria and Kensington. The line +leads nearly due south to the sea at Brighton, and then along the +sea-coast, from Hastings in the east to Portsmouth in the +west. There are also several branches to accommodate Surrey +and Sussex. Taken altogether, this is the most remarkable +<i>pleasure-line</i> in England,—the traffic of this kind +between London and Brighton being something marvellous.</p> +<p><i>South-Eastern Railway</i> has another portion of the large +but incongruous London Bridge Station in its possession. +The seaside termini of the line are at Margate, Ramsgate, Deal, +Dover, and Hastings. The Greenwich and North Kent branches +are important feeders; while there are others of less +value. The company have spent a vast sum of money in +extending their line to the north of the Thames—by forming +a city station in Cannon Street, with a bridge over the river +midway between London and Southwark Bridges; and a West-end +Station at Charing Cross, with a bridge over the river at (what +was till lately) Hungerford Market. There is also a +connection with the South-Western terminus in the Waterloo +Road. The company have been forced to pay a sum of +£300,000 for St. Thomas’s Hospital, as the only means +of insuring a convenient course for this extension—a +striking instance of the stupendous scale on which railway +operations are now conducted.</p> +<p><a name="page141"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +141</span><i>London</i>, <i>Chatham</i>, <i>and Dover Railway</i> +is a very costly enterprise. It may be said to start from +two junctions with the Metropolitan, has a large station near +Ludgate Hill, (involving great destruction of property,) crosses +the Thames a little eastward of Blackfriars Bridge, and proceeds +through Surrey and Kent to Sydenham, Bromley, Crays, Sevenoaks, +Chatham, Sheerness, Faversham, Herne Bay, Margate, Ramsgate, +Canterbury, Dover Pier, &c. It also comprises a +curvilinear line from Ludgate to Pimlico, with stations at +Blackfriars, Newington, Walworth, Camberwell, Loughborough Road, +Brixton, Clapham, Wandsworth Road, and Battersea; and a branch to +Peckham, Nunhead, and the Crystal Palace.</p> +<p><i>Blackwall Railway</i>, with which is associated the +<i>Tilbury and Southend</i>, has its terminus in Fenchurch +Street. The station is small and unattractive; but it +accommodates a wonderful amount of passenger traffic. The +original line extended only from London to Blackwall, with +intermediate stations at Shadwell, Stepney, Limehouse, West India +Docks, and Poplar. An important branch from Stepney to Bow +establishes a connection with the Great Eastern Railway valuable +to both companies. At Stepney also begins the Tilbury and +Southend line, passing through Bromley, Barking, and numerous +other places. Accommodation is provided, a little way from +the Fenchurch Street Station, for a large amount of goods +traffic. The line is now leased in perpetuity to the Great +Eastern Company.</p> +<p><i>Great Eastern Railway</i> has its terminus in Bishopsgate +Street, or rather Shoreditch, and a large depôt and station +at Stratford. The Shoreditch station is large. This +terminus, however, will shortly be removed to Broad Street, +City. The lines of this company are numerous, and ramify in +many directions towards the east, north-east, and north. +Its terminal points (with those of the associated companies) at +present are—Peterborough, Hunstanton, Wells, Yarmouth, +Aldborough, and Harwich; with less distant termini at Ongar and +North Woolwich.</p> +<p><i>North London Railway</i>, consisting wholly of viaduct and +cutting, has its terminus at Broad Street, Finsbury. All +its stations are considered to be in London. It joins the +London and North-Western <a name="page142"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 142</span>near Primrose Hill, and the +Blackwall at Stepney. It has intermediate stations at +Camden Road, Caledonian Road, Islington, Cannonbury, Kingsland, +Dalston, Hackney, Victoria Park, and Bow. Trains run every +quarter of an hour, in both directions, at fares varying from 2d. +to 4d.; and the number of passengers is immense.</p> +<p><i>Metropolitan Railway</i>, from Finsbury to Paddington, is a +very remarkable one, nearly all tunnel, and requiring the +carriages to be constantly lighted with gas. It runs from +Westminster Bridge, <i>viâ</i> Pimlico, Brompton, +Kensington, Notting Hill, and Bayswater, to Paddington, where it +joins the Great Western. It then goes under Praed Street +and the New Road to King’s Cross. There it joins the +Great Northern, and thence goes on to Holborn Bridge, Smithfield +Dead Meat Market, and Moorgate Street. Since the opening of +the Metropolitan District Extension Railway, you can go at +present (July, 1870) from the Mansion House, under the Northern +Thames Embankment, before described, to Westminster Bridge, +&c. There are stations near the Mansion House, the +terminus; at Blackfriars, the Temple, Charing Cross, and +Westminster.</p> +<p><i>Steamers</i> and <i>Steamboat Piers</i> have been already +referred to.</p> +<h2><a name="page143"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +143</span>SHORT EXCURSIONS.</h2> +<p><span class="smcap">We</span> shall now direct the +stranger’s attention to a few places of interest easily +accessible from the metropolis—beginning with those +situated westward, or up the river.</p> +<h3>UP THE RIVER.</h3> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p143b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Chelsea Hospital" +title= +"Chelsea Hospital" +src="images/p143s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><b>Chelsea</b>.—Chelsea, once a village, is now a part +of the metropolis, Pimlico and Belgravia having supplied the +intervening link. During the last century a pleasant ramble +across the fields was much in favour to the <i>Chelsea +bunhouse</i>; but no one thinks of Chelsea now, except as part of +London. Sloane Square and Street, and Hans Place, were +named after Sir Hans Sloane, who lived in that +neighbourhood. The chief place of interest at Chelsea is +the <i>Hospital</i> for retired invalid soldiers, an institution +similar to the asylum for old seamen at Greenwich. The +hospital, which is situated on a flat stretch of ground bordering +the Thames, and was <a name="page144"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 144</span>planned by Sir Christopher Wren, +consists chiefly of one large edifice of red brick, several +stories in height, forming a centre and two wings, or three sides +of a square, with the open side towards the bank of the +Thames. On the north, in which is the main entrance, the +style of architecture is simple, being ornamented with only a +plain portico. The inner part of the centre building is +more decorated, there being here a piazza of good proportions, +forming a sheltered walk for the veteran inmates. In the +centre of the open square stands a statue, by Grinling Gibbons, +of Charles II., in whose time the hospital took its rise. +The only parts of the structure considered worthy to be shewn to +strangers are the chapel and old dining-hall, both in the central +building. The chapel is neat and plain in appearance; the +rows of benches being furnished with prayer-books and hassocks, +and the floor being paved with chequered marble. Above the +communion-table is a painting of the Ascension, by Sebastian +Ricci. The dining-hall is equally spacious, but is now +disused as a refectory. In the hall and chapel are about +100 flags, taken by British troops in various battles. The +usual number of in-pensioners is about 500, and of out-pensioners +not fewer than 60,000 to 70,000, who reside in all parts of the +United Kingdom. The former are provided with all +necessaries, while the latter have each pensions varying +according to their grade. The inmates wear an antique garb +of red cloth, in which they may be seen loitering about the +neighbourhood.</p> +<p>Near Sloane Square is situated a large building forming the +<i>Royal Military Asylum</i>, familiarly called the <i>Duke of +York’s School</i>, for the support and education of about +500 poor children, whose fathers were non-commissioned officers +and privates in the army. Each regiment of the British army +contributes annually one day’s pay, to aid in supporting +the institution. Between Sloane Square and Chelsea Bridge +is the fine new Barracks for the Foot Guards: the only handsome +barrack structure in the metropolis.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p145b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Star and Garter, Putney" +title= +"Star and Garter, Putney" +src="images/p145s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><b>Chelsea to Chiswick</b>.—<i>Battersea Park</i>, +elsewhere described, is just opposite Chelsea. Beyond the +park are <i>Battersea</i> and <i>Wandsworth</i>, places +containing very few objects of interest; and backed by +<i>Clapham</i> and <i>Wimbledon</i>, where many London merchants +and <a name="page145"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +145</span>tradesmen have their private residences. Beyond +Wandsworth lie <i>Putney</i>, <i>Barnes</i>, and <i>Mortlake</i>, +where the river makes a great bend towards Kew. Between +Putney and Kew many <i>Regattas</i>, or boat-races, take place +during the summer; especially the famous annual contest, from +Putney to Mortlake, between the universities of Oxford and +Cambridge: these are among the most pleasant of the up-river +scenes. Omnibuses, steamboats, and the South-Western +Railway, give abundant accommodation to the places here +named. On the Middlesex side of the river, just beyond +Chelsea, are <i>Cremorne Gardens</i>. Next, we get into a +region of Market-Gardens, from which London is supplied with vast +quantities of fruit and vegetables. <i>Walham Green</i>, +<i>Parson’s Green</i>, and <i>Fulham</i>, lie in the +immediate vicinity of these gardens. Strangers would find +an hour or two pleasantly spent hereabouts. The bishops of +London have their palace at Fulham, a picturesque old +structure. After passing <i>Hammersmith</i>, where there is +a pretty suspension bridge, we come to <i>Chiswick</i>, noted for +its market-gardens; here is the house in which Hogarth died; and +in the churchyard is his tomb, with an <a +name="page146"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 146</span>inscription +by David Garrick. The Duke of Sutherland has a fine mansion +at Chiswick; and near at hand are the old gardens of the +Horticultural Society.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p146b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Palm-House, Kew Gardens" +title= +"Palm-House, Kew Gardens" +src="images/p146s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><b>Kew Gardens</b>.—<i>Kew</i> is one of the pleasantest +villages near London. When we have crossed the Thames from +Brentford, by the bridge, we come upon the green, bounded on +three sides by countryfied-looking houses, and on the fourth by +the splendid gardens. The place is very easily +reached—by omnibuses from the city to the Middlesex end of +the bridge; by steamers every half-hour during summer; and by +trains from the Waterloo and the North London Stations. It +may be well to remember, however, that the so-called Kew Station +is not actually at Kew. There is another, however, near the +Gardens. By far the most interesting object at Kew is the +famous <i>Botanic Gardens</i>. This is a very beautiful +establishment, maintained at the public expense. It +contains a rare collection of plants, obtained from all parts of +the world, arranged and labelled in admirable order by Dr. Dalton +Hooker. The flower-beds, hot-houses, and conservatories, +are very numerous. The <i>great palm </i><a +name="page147"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +147</span><i>house</i>, with its exotics, reaching to a height of +60 feet, and constructed at a cost of £30,000, forms a +grand object. The new <i>temperate-house</i> was +constructed from the designs of Mr. Burton; 212 feet long, 137 +wide, and 60 high, with two wings 112 feet by 62. Extensive +new works have been added—including a lake having a +communication with the Thames by a tunnel under the +river-terrace, and a winter-garden, or enclosed conservatory, +more than twice as large as the palm-house. Three detached +buildings have been fitted up as a <i>Museum of Economic +Botany</i>. The <i>Pleasure Grounds</i> form a kind of Park +contiguous to the Botanic Gardens; the gardens are 75 acres in +extent, and the grounds 240 acres. This beautiful place is +freely open to the public in the afternoon, on Sundays as well as +week-days, after one o’clock.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p147b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Richmond Bridge" +title= +"Richmond Bridge" +src="images/p147s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><b>Richmond</b>.—<i>Richmond</i> is a village situated +on the south bank of the Thames, at about 9 miles by land from +Hyde Park Corner, and 16 miles by following the windings of the +river. The most pleasant mode of conveyance to it used to +be by one of the small steamboats from Hungerford Pier; for then +an opportunity was afforded of <a name="page148"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 148</span>seeing numerous beautiful and +interesting spots on both banks of the river. The river is +now, however, so shallow, that steamers can seldom reach this +spot; and the trip is usually made by railway—from the +Waterloo and Vauxhall Stations, and from all stations on the +Blackwall, North London, and North and South Western lines. +Omnibuses also run very frequently from the City and West +End. Richmond stands on a slope overhanging the +river. Opposite the village is a stone bridge crossing the +Thames. South from the village, a pretty steep bank ascends +to the green and bushy eminence called <i>Richmond Hill</i>; and +from the terrace on its summit a view is obtained of the +beautifully wooded country up the river, stretching away to +Windsor. Among numerous villas, ornamental grounds, and +other attractive objects, may be seen <i>Twickenham</i>, situated +in the immediate vicinity, on the left bank of the Thames. +In the house for which the present was erected as a substitute, +lived Pope the poet, and his body is entombed in the +church. +<a href="images/p148b.jpg"> +<img class='clearcenter' alt= +"Pope’s Villa" +title= +"Pope’s Villa" +src="images/p148s.jpg" /> +</a>Close by <a name="page149"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +149</span>Twickenham is <i>Strawberry Mill</i>, once the seat of +Horace Walpole, and now belonging to Lady Waldegrave. +Moving onwards along the brow of the eminence, and passing the +well known but expensive hotel called the <i>Star and Garter</i>, +we enter the famous <i>Richmond Park</i>, which is eight miles in +circumference, and enriched with magnificent trees. These +extensive grounds were at one time connected with a royal palace, +but there is now no such edifice—one or two hunting-lodges +excepted; the park is, however, still a domain of the Crown, and +freely open to the public. Foreigners are great admirers of +this vicinity.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p149b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Hampton Court" +title= +"Hampton Court" +src="images/p149s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><b>Hampton Court</b>.—<i>Hampton</i> is about 13 miles +from London by railway, and 24 by water. Trains run there +very frequently, and at low fares, from Waterloo Station. +The village is unimportant, but rendered pleasant by its large +and open green. The chief object of attraction is +<i>Hampton Court Palace</i>, situated within an enclosed garden +near the north bank of the Thames. The palace <a +name="page150"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 150</span>was +originally built by Cardinal Wolsey, and a portion of the +structure which he reared is still extant in the northern +quadrangle. Here was the scene of the humiliation and +forfeiture of that favourite of Henry VIII., who at this place +often held his court, and made it the scene of his Christmas +festivities; there Edward VI. was born; here were held the +masques, mummeries, and tournaments of Philip and Mary, and +Elizabeth; here James I. held his court and famous meeting of +controversialists; here Charles I. was immured as a state +prisoner, and took leave of his children; here was celebrated the +marriage of Cromwell’s daughter and Lord Falconberg; here +Charles II. sojourned occasionally with his dissolute courtiers; +here lived William and Mary after the revolution of 1688; and +here, till the reign of George II., royal courts were sometimes +held. The palace, in external appearance, is a lofty and +magnificent structure of red brick, with stone cornices and +dressings. The older part, including the famous Great Hall, +the scene of the court masques and revels, is of the time of +Henry VIII.; the eastern part, including the public rooms and the +long garden front, was built by Wren for William III. +Altogether, the edifice consists of three quadrangles. +Entering by the grand staircase, which is decorated with +paintings by Antonio Verrio, the visitor is conducted through a +suite of lofty and large apartments, furnished in an +old-fashioned style. The guard-room, which is first in +order, contains, besides a series of English admirals by Kneller +and Dahl, a variety of ancient warlike instruments. In the +next apartment are portraits of various beauties of Charles +II.’s court, painted by Sir Peter Lely, who has here +depicted several lovely countenances, though a sensual character +is common to them all. In the third room, or +audience-chamber, is seen what is generally regarded as the +finest painting in the palace—a portrait of Charles I. on +horseback, by Vandyck. The third room has also some good +pictures; among others, a painting of the family of Louis +Cornaro, a person celebrated for his extraordinary +temperance. The picture, which is from an original by +Titian, shews Cornaro and three generations of descendants, who +appear in the act of adoration at a shrine. There are +likewise portraits of Titian and his uncle, painted by <a +name="page151"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 151</span>Titian +himself, and a spirited battle-piece by Giulio Romano. The +fourth apartment, or Queen’s drawing-room, is enriched with +an exceedingly fine painting of Charles I., a whole length, by +Vandyck, esteemed the best likeness we have of that +monarch. There is a well known and beautiful print from it +by Sir Robert Strange, the prince of English +line-engravers. In the next room, or state bedchamber, the +visitor will see a portrait of Ann Hyde, daughter of Hyde, Earl +of Clarendon, and mother of the successive queens, Mary and +Anne. The Queen’s dressing-room and writing-closet, +and Queen Mary’s state bedchamber, which follow, contain +many fine pictures, by Holbein, Sir Peter Lely, Sebastian del +Piombo, Leonardo da Vinci, Albert Durer, and others. A +series known as the Beauties of the Court of William and Mary +comprises portraits (by Kneller) more staid than those of the +court of Charles II., and, it must be admitted, more tame and +dull. After having traversed these stately and silent +halls, one of which contains a valuable collection of historical +portraits, the visitor is led out through the gallery lately +containing the famous Cartoons of Raphael—which were +transferred in 1865 to the South Kensington Museum. Another +room contains a fine series of Cartoons by Andrea Mantegna. +The whole of the pictures at Hampton Court are little less than +1000 in number.</p> +<p>The palace garden has a <i>Vinery</i>, where there is a grape +vine ninety years old, which has sometimes yielded 3000 bunches +of grapes in one year. The garden also possesses a +<i>Maze</i>, a source of great delight to holiday +juveniles. On the opposite side of the Hampton Wick Road +from the palace gardens, is <i>Bushy Park</i>, a royal domain, +embellished with an avenue of horse-chestnut trees, which present +a splendid sight when in full bloom. The palace grounds are +also exceedingly beautiful. Bushy Park is open for +omnibuses and other vehicles, as well as for pedestrians. +The palace is open free every day except Friday, from 10 till 4 +or 6, according to the season; and the grounds or gardens till +dusk. This is one of the very few public buildings in or +near the metropolis open on Sundays.</p> +<p><b>Windsor</b>.—Passing over the country between Hampton +and <a name="page152"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +152</span>Windsor, which does not comprise many spots interesting +to strangers, we come to the famous royal domain. +<i>Windsor</i> is situated in the county of Berks, at the +distance of 22 miles west from London by the road through +Brentford; but it may now be reached in an hour or less by the +Great Western Railway from Paddington, or the South-Western from +Waterloo Bridge. Windsor occupies a rising-ground on the +south bank of the Thames, and is interesting for its ancient and +extensive castle, the grandest royal residence in this +country. The gates of the castle are close upon the main +street of the town, and lead to enclosures containing a number of +quadrangles, towers, gates, mansions, barracks, and other +structures. +<a href="images/p152b.jpg"> +<img class='clearcenter' alt= +"Round Tower, Windsor" +title= +"Round Tower, Windsor" +src="images/p152s.jpg" /> +</a>The principal portion of the castle occupies two courts, an +upper and lower, of spacious dimensions, and having between them +a large round tower or keep, in which the governor resides. +The top of <a name="page153"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +153</span>this keep is 220 feet above the Thames, and twelve +counties can be seen from it in fine weather. In the lower +court is St. George’s Chapel, an elegant Gothic edifice, in +which service is performed on Sundays, occasionally in presence +of the royal residents. Besides the chapel and keep, the +chief parts of the castle attractive to strangers are the state +apartments in the upper or northern court; these are exhibited +<i>free</i> to visitors on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and +Fridays. Tickets can be obtained of Messrs. Colnaghi, 13 +and 14 Pall Mall East. The days, hours, and conditions of +visiting are notified on the tickets. The apartments here +meant are the <i>old</i> state rooms, not those actually occupied +by the Queen, her family, and retinue.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p153b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Windsor Castle" +title= +"Windsor Castle" +src="images/p153s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Outside the castle, facing the north, is the famed +<i>terrace</i>, from which a view is obtained over a most +beautiful expanse of country. On another side are the new +royal stables, the finest in England, having, with the Riding +House, cost £70,000. In the gardens immediately +adjoining the Queen’s apartments, the royal family, <a +name="page154"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 154</span>before the +death of the Prince Consort, were wont occasionally to promenade, +at an hour when the public might see them. The <i>Home +Park</i>, bounding the palace on two sides, is not open to the +public; but the <i>Great Park</i> is freely open, to persons on +foot, on horseback, or in vehicles. The <i>Long Walk</i> +through this park, extending 3 miles, is one of the finest things +of the kind in England.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p154b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Eton College" +title= +"Eton College" +src="images/p154s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><i>Eton College</i>, with its school-rooms for 900 boys, +chapel, quadrangles, and playing-fields, lies beautifully +situated opposite Windsor Castle.</p> +<p>A ramble from the Slough Station, near Eton, would take a +visitor to the scenes rendered memorable by Gray’s +<i>Elegy</i>.</p> +<h3>DOWN THE RIVER.</h3> +<p><b>Deptford</b>.—This was once of some importance as a +shipbuilding place, a dockyard having been established here ever +since the time of Henry VIII.; but the government establishments +have recently been given up to the victualling and store +departments. Deptford <a name="page155"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 155</span>may now be considered part of the +metropolis—and a very dirty part it is, containing few +objects that would interest a stranger. Peter the Great of +Russia studied as a shipwright at Deptford dockyard in 1698, to +fit himself for creating a Russian navy.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p155b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Greenwich" +title= +"Greenwich" +src="images/p155s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><b>Greenwich</b>.—This favourite place lies on the south +bank of the Thames, a little below Deptford, about six miles +below London Bridge, following the windings of the river, but +only about four miles by railway, from the London Bridge +Station. It is noted for the <i>Trafalgar</i>, <i>Ship</i>, +<i>Crown and Sceptre</i>, and other taverns, where <i>whitebait +dinners</i> have become celebrated. Diners at these places, +however, will require long purses. Greenwich is chiefly +interesting, however, for its national establishments. +Towards its eastern extremity stands the <i>Hospital</i>, which +faces the Thames, and has a command of all that passes on the +river. This superb hospital consists of four edifices, +unconnected with each other, but apparently forming an entire +structure, lining three sides of an open square, the fourth side +being next the water. It is mostly built of stone, <a +name="page156"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 156</span>in majestic +style; and along nearly the greater part are lofty colonnades, +with handsome pillars, and covered overhead, to protect those +underneath from the weather. The square interval in the +centre, which is 273 feet wide, has in the middle a statue of +George II., by Rysbrach. A portion of these beautiful +buildings was originally planned by Inigo Jones, another portion +by Sir C. Wren, and the rest by later architects. It was +William and Mary who, in the year 1694, here established an +hospital for superannuated and disabled seamen, to which purpose +the buildings were till lately devoted. The institution is +supported by the interest on £2,800,000, funded property, +the rental of estates in the north of England, and a national +grant. In 1865 it accommodated about 1300 pensioners, 150 +nurses, and a variety of officers for the government of the +place. The inmates were old sailors, with countenances well +browned by tropical suns, or bleached by the tempests of the +ocean; here one hobbling on a wooden leg, there one with an empty +sleeve, and occasionally one with only one eye. Their +clothes were of a dark-blue colour, of an antiquated +fashion. Their old cocked-hats had been superseded by hats +of more modern shape; the boatswains, or other warrant-officers, +being allowed a yellow trimming or lace to their garments. +An abundance of food was allowed, the clothing warm and +comfortable, the accommodations in the rooms good; and each man, +according to his rank, had from three to five shillings a-week, +as an allowance for pocket-money. The outer gateway, and +the interior parts of this establishment, were under the care of +the pensioners themselves, who shewed the utmost attention to +strangers, manifesting a frankness and good-nature characteristic +of the profession of the sailor. Small sums were taken for +exhibiting some of the buildings, but the money went to the +general fund, or for the board and education of the children of +seamen. The visitor did not fail to glance into the +<i>refectory</i> and <i>kitchen</i>, which were freely open, and +see the old men at their meals.</p> +<p>It may seem singular thus to speak of this famous +establishment in the <i>past</i> tense; but in truth the purpose +of Greenwich Hospital is changed. By an arrangement made in +1865, nearly all the pensioners (except sick and decrepit) have +left the building, with a <a name="page157"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 157</span>greatly increased money-allowance; +most of them now living with their relations or friends.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p157b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Painted Hall, Greenwich Hospital" +title= +"Painted Hall, Greenwich Hospital" +src="images/p157s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>One attractive part of the establishment is the <i>Painted +Hall</i>, in the west wing. It consists of a great room and +one smaller, a vestibule, and a flight of steps. The +appearance of the whole interior, on entering, is very imposing, +the ceiling and one end being covered with paintings; and +although these paintings, exhibiting a mixture of fantastic +heathen gods and goddesses with royal and other portraits, are +not in judicious taste, they serve to give a good general effect +to the noble apartment. Along the walls are hung a +collection of pictures, partly portraits of celebrated navigators +and admirals, and partly depicting distinguished naval victories: +each being a present to the institution by some benefactor. +A good portrait of Captain Cook, by Dance, presented by Sir +Joseph Banks, adorns the vestibule. <a +name="page158"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 158</span>A number of +portraits, by Sir Peter Lely, Dahl, Sir Godfrey Kneller, and +others, were presented by George IV. There are also several +by Sir Joshua Reynolds. The painted ceiling of the great +room was executed by Sir James Thornhill in 1703 and subsequent +years. It is related that, in consequence of the length of +time he had to lie on his back painting the ceiling, the artist +could never afterwards sit upright. In the smaller +apartment are shewn several models of ships of war, admirably +executed; the coat worn by Nelson at the battle of the Nile; the +astrolabe of Sir Francis Drake, a curious brass instrument of +antique fashion, used for nautical observation; and some +interesting relics of the ill-fated voyage of Sir John +Franklin. The Hall is open free to the public on Monday and +Friday; on other days the charge is 4d. On Sunday it may be +seen after morning-service. The <i>Chapel</i> is also worth +a visit; it contains a fine picture by Benjamin West, the +‘Shipwreck of St. Paul;’ and monuments to two +admirals, by Chantrey and Behnes. A monument or obelisk to +the memory of Lieutenant Bellot, who perished in one of the +Arctic Expeditions, has been placed on the noble +Hospital-terrace, fronting the river.</p> +<p>The <i>Park</i>, extending behind the hospital—open free +to the public until dusk—comprehends a considerable space +of ground, nearly 200 acres, of great natural and artificial +beauty. A pathway amidst lines of tall trees leads to a +piece of rising-ground or mount, which, on holidays, generally +exhibits a mirthful scene, in which ‘running down Greenwich +hill’ plays a great part. On the summit is the +<i>Royal Observatory</i>, founded by George III. for the +promotion of astronomical science, and the scene of the labours +of some men of distinguished ability. An astronomer-royal, +supported by a parliamentary grant, constantly resides and +pursues investigations in the Observatory. From this spot +British geographers measure the longitude. The collection +of instruments kept and used in this building is superb and +costly; but the public are not admitted to see them. An +electric <i>time-ball</i> falls every day at one o’clock +precisely; and an <i>electric clock</i>, a <i>standard +barometer</i>, and <i>standard measures of length</i>, (of +rigorous accuracy,) are placed for public use by the side of the +entrance-gates.</p> +<p><a name="page159"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +159</span><b>Limehouse to North Woolwich</b>.—If a stranger +be willing to lay aside the ideas of mere <i>pleasure</i> spots, +he will find much to look at and think about in the stretch of +river margin here denoted. First comes the <i>Isle of +Dogs</i>, joining Limehouse on the east. This strange +horseshoe-shaped piece of ground is almost wholly below the level +of the river, the inroads of which are only prevented by +embankments. The northern neck of the peninsula (for it is +not strictly an island) is occupied by the West India Docks; the +middle portion is not much appropriated to any useful purpose, on +account of the lowness of the site; the river edge is fringed +with shipbuilding and factory establishments. The <i>Great +Eastern</i> was here built at Messrs. Scott Russell’s +works. A new church has been built at <i>Cubitt Town</i>, +the name now given to the eastern part of the Isle. Next +below the Isle of Dogs are <i>Poplar</i> and <i>Blackwall</i>, +now forming one town—observable for the shipyard of Messrs. +Green, the terminus of the Blackwall Railway, the East India +Docks, and two or three river-side taverns where <i>whitebait +dinners</i> are much in fashion during the season. Then +comes the spot, Bow Creek, at which the River Lea enters the +Thames, so closely hemmed in by shipyards and engine-factories, +that the Lea itself can barely be seen. The great shipyard +of the Thames Company, late Messrs. Mare’s, is situated +here. Next we come to the extensive and convenient +<i>Victoria Docks</i>, occupying ground which was previously mere +waste. Beyond the Docks are new centres of population +gradually springing up, called <i>Silvertown</i> and <i>North +Woolwich</i>, with large factories and a railway station. +Still farther east, near <i>Barking Creek</i>, there may be seen +the vast outfall of the great system of drainage for the northern +half of the metropolis.</p> +<p><b>Woolwich</b>.—Taking the south side of the river +instead of the north, and availing himself of steamers or of +trains, (from Charing Cross, Fenchurch Street, or Shoreditch,) +the stranger finds the next place of importance below Greenwich +to be <i>Woolwich</i>. This is a busy town in Kent, eight +miles from London by land, and ten following the course of the +river. Here, in the reign of Henry VIII., a dockyard for +the construction of vessels of the royal navy was established; +and ever since that time the place has been <a +name="page160"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +160</span>distinguished as an arsenal for naval and military +stores. The dockyard was closed 1st October, 1869. +From the river, a view is obtained of the arsenal, now greatly +improved. The ground of the arsenal, for nearly a mile in +length, is bounded on the river side by a stone quay, and is +occupied in part by prodigious ranges of storehouses and +workshops. Among these is included a laboratory for the +preparation of cartridges, bombs, grenades, and shot; a splendid +manufactory for shells and guns; a gun-carriage factory of vast +extent; and a store of warlike material that never fails to fill +a stranger with amazement. Adjoining are barracks for +artillery and marines, military hospitals, &c. On the +upper part of Woolwich Common is situated a royal military +academy for the education of young gentlemen designed for the +army. Strangers (if not foreigners) are admitted to the +arsenal only by a written order from the War Office. The +number of government establishments in and near Woolwich is very +large; and there is generally something or other going on which a +stranger would be interested in seeing.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p160b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Woolwich" +title= +"Woolwich" +src="images/p160s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><a name="page161"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +161</span><b>Below Woolwich</b>.—Numerous steamers during +the day, trains on the Tilbury Railway, and others on the North +Kent Railway, give easy access to a number of pleasant places +lower down the river than Woolwich. On the Essex side are +<i>Rainham</i>, near which onion gardens are kept up; +<i>Purfleet</i>, where vast stores of government gunpowder are +kept; <i>Grays</i>, where immense quantities of chalk are dug, +and where copious springs of very pure water are found in the +chalk beds; and <i>Tilbury</i>, where there is a regular +fortification for the defence of the river, and a steam-ferry +over to Gravesend. +<a href="images/p161b.jpg"> +<img class='clearcenter' alt= +"Tilbury Fort" +title= +"Tilbury Fort" +src="images/p161s.jpg" /> +</a>On the Kent side are <i>Plumstead Marshes</i>, where +artillery practice by Woolwich officers is carried on; +<i>Crossness Point</i>, where the fine buildings connected with +the Southern Outfall Sewer are situated, (and near which were the +great Powder Magazines that blew up in October, 1864;) +<i>Erith</i>, with its pretty wooded heights; <i>Greenhithe</i>, +where the late General Havelock passed some of his early years, +and where Alderman Harmer built a mansion with the stones of old +London Bridge; and <i>Northfleet</i>, where much shipbuilding is +carried on. Beyond Northfleet is <i>Gravesend</i>, a famous +place for Cockney picnics, but fast losing its rural +character. Commercially, Gravesend is important as being <a +name="page162"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 162</span>the place +where the customs’ authorities recognise the port of London +to begin; all ships, incoming and outgoing, are visited by the +officers here, pilots embark and disembark, and much trade +accrues to the town in consequence.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p162b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Gravesend Reach" +title= +"Gravesend Reach" +src="images/p162s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h3>CRYSTAL PALACE, &c.</h3> +<p>There are many pretty spots in different directions in the +vicinity of London, away from the river, worthy of a visit. +On the north-west are <i>Hampstead</i>, with its noble Heath and +its charming variety of landscape scenery; and <i>Harrow</i>, +with its famous old school, associated with the memory of Byron, +Peel, and many other eminent men. To its churchyard Byron +was a frequent visitor: “There is,” he wrote to a +friend in after years, “a spot in the churchyard, near the +footpath on the brow of the hill looking towards Windsor, and a +tomb (bearing the name of Peachey) under a large tree, where I +used to sit for hours and hours when a boy.” Nearly +northward are <i>Highgate</i>, with its fringe of woods, and its +remarkable series of ponds; <i>Finchley</i>, once celebrated for +its highwaymen, but now for its cemeteries; <i>Hornsey</i>, with +its ivy-clad church, and its pretty winding New River; and +<i>Barnet</i>, with its great annual fair. <a +name="page163"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 163</span>On the +north-east are <i>Edmonton</i>, which the readers of +‘<i>John Gilpin</i>’ will of course never forget; +<i>Enfield</i>, where the government manufacture rifles on a vast +scale; <i>Waltham</i>, notable for its abbey and its gunpowder +mills; and <i>Epping Forest</i>—a boon to picnic parties +from the eastern half of London. ‘Fairlop Oak’ +(Hainault Forest) has disappeared.</p> +<p>South of the Thames, likewise, there are many pretty spots, +quite distinct from those on the river’s bank. +<i>Wimbledon</i>, where volunteers assemble; <i>Mitcham</i>, near +which are some interesting herb-gardens; <i>Norwood</i>, a +pleasant spot, from which London can be well seen; +<i>Lewisham</i> and <i>Bromley</i>, surrounded by many pretty +bits of scenery; <i>Blackheath</i>, a famous place for golf and +other outdoor games; <i>Eltham</i>, where a bit of King +John’s palace is still to be seen; the <i>Crays</i>, a +string of picturesque villages on the banks of the river Cray; +&c. <i>Dulwich</i> is a village about 5 miles south of +London Bridge. Here Edward Alleyn, or Allen, a +distinguished actor in the reign of James I., founded and endowed +an hospital or college, called <i>Dulwich College</i>, for the +residence and support of poor persons, under certain +limitations. On 21st June, 1870, a new college, a modern +development and extension of the old charity, was formally opened +by the Prince and Princess of Wales. The new buildings are +entirely devoted to educational purposes, and they have +accommodation for 600 or 700 boys. The founder bequeathed +some pictures to the institution, and the collection was vastly +increased by the addition of a large number, chiefly of the Dutch +and Flemish schools, bequeathed in 1810 by Sir Francis +Bourgeois. A gallery, designed by Sir John Soane, was +opened in 1817; and this now forms a most attractive sight to all +who delight in the fine arts. The gallery is open free +every week-day from 10 to 5 in summer, and from 10 to 4 in +winter.</p> +<p><b>Crystal Palace</b>.—One especial object of interest +in the southern vicinity of London is the far-famed <i>Crystal +Palace</i>. This structure, in many respects one of the +most remarkable in the world, owed its existence to the Great +Exhibition of 1851 in Hyde Park. The materials of that +building being sold to a new company towards the close of that +year, were transferred to an elevated spot near Sydenham, <a +name="page164"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 164</span>about 7 +miles from London. The intention was to found a palace and +park for the exhibition of objects in art and science, and to +make it self-paying. The original estimate was +£500,000, but the expenditure reached nearly +£1,500,000—too great to render a profitable return +likely. The palace and grounds were opened in 1854; the +water-towers and great fountains some time afterwards. The +marvels of this unparalleled structure cannot be described within +a limited space. +<a href="images/p164b.jpg"> +<img class='clearcenter' alt= +"Crystal Palace" +title= +"Crystal Palace" +src="images/p164s.jpg" /> +</a>The building is about 1600 feet long, 380 wide, and, at the +centre transept, nearly 200 high. It consists of a nave and +three transepts, all with arched roofs, and all made chiefly of +iron and glass. Within, the building consists of a central +nave, having marble fountains near the two ends, and lined with +statues and plants throughout its whole length. On each +side of the nave are compartments to illustrate the sculpture and +architecture of different ages and countries; such as Greek, +Roman, Assyrian, Pompeian, Egyptian, Alhambraic or Saracenic, +Romanesque, Byzantine, <a name="page165"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 165</span>Mediæval, in its English, +French, and German varieties, Renaissance, Palladian, and +Elizabethan. Other compartments illustrate certain +industrial groups, such as cutlery, porcelain, paper, encaustic +tiles, &c. On the first gallery are large collections +of pictures, photographs, and casts from medallions and small +works of art. Near the centre transept are all the +necessary arrangements for two concert-rooms—one on a +stupendous scale, in which 5000 singers and instrumentalists can +sometimes be heard at once. +<a href="images/p165b.jpg"> +<img class='clearcenter' alt= +"Interior, Crystal Palace" +title= +"Interior, Crystal Palace" +src="images/p165s.jpg" /> +</a>An orchestra of unparalleled dimensions is constructed here +for great festival commemorations, and similar musical +meetings. The botanical collection within the building is +very fine; and to preserve the exotic plants, one end of the +building is maintained at a high temperature all the year +round. Some portions of the galleries are let out as stalls +or bazaars to shopkeepers; and very extensive arrangements are +made for supplying refreshments. In an upper gallery is a +museum of raw produce. In long galleries in the basement <a +name="page166"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 166</span>are +exhibited agricultural implements, and cotton and other machinery +in motion.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p166b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Crystal Palace Fountains" +title= +"Crystal Palace Fountains" +src="images/p166s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>The park and gardens are extensive, occupying nearly 200 +acres; they are beautifully arranged, and contain an extremely +fine collection of flowers and other plants, occupying parterres +separated by broad gravel-walks. The terraces, stone +balustrades, wide steps, and sculptures, are all on a very grand +scale. The fountains are perhaps the finest in the world, +some of them sending up magnificent streams of water to a great +height, and some displaying thousands of minute glittering jets +interlacing in the most graceful manner. A portion of the +water is made to imitate cascades and waterfalls. The jet +from the central basin rises to 150 feet; and those from the two +great basins to 250 feet. There are two cascades, each 450 +feet long, 100 wide, and having a tall of 12 feet. When the +whole of the waterworks are playing, there are 12,000 jets in +all; and when this continues for the length of time customary on +some of the ‘grand days,’ the water consumed is said +to amount to 6,000,000 <a name="page167"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 167</span>gallons. Two water-towers of +enormous height, (nearly 300 feet from the foundations,) to which +water is pumped up by steam-engines, supply the water-pressure by +which the fountains are fed. The illustrations of extinct +animals and of geology, in the lower part of the grounds, are +curious and instructive.</p> +<p>Railway trains, running frequently during the day, give access +to the Crystal Palace, from the Pimlico and London Bridge +stations of the Brighton Company, from the Kensington and Chelsea +stations of the West London Railway, from the Waterloo station of +the South-Western <i>viâ</i> Wimbledon, and from the +Ludgate Hill and other stations of the Chatham and Dover. +The last-named company have built an elegant and convenient +‘high-level’ station, in front of the main centre +transept. The Crystal Palace is a shilling exhibition; but +the greater number of visitors only pay 1s. 6d. each for a ticket +(third class) which insures admission to the palace and grounds, +and the railway journey there and back; first and second class +tickets are higher; and there are days on which admission to the +palace is also higher. A whole week might be spent in +examining the various treasures; for the Crystal Palace and +grounds are interesting in each of the following +features:—Sculpture; Illustrations of Architecture; +Pictures and Photographs; Illustrations of Mechanics and +Manufactures; Botany; Ethnology, or Illustrations of National +Characteristics; Palæontology, or Extinct Animals; Geology; +Hydraulic skill in the Fountains; and Musical facilities of an +unprecedented kind. There are also facilities in the +grounds for Cricket, Archery, Boating, Athletic Exercises, and +Sports of other kinds, either regularly or occasionally. +The directors must be credited with the undoubted excellence of +their Choral Festivals and Orchestral Concerts. For great +holiday demonstrations, too, there is nothing else at all equal +to the Crystal Palace in the kingdom; and railways give access to +it from almost every part of the metropolis.</p> +<p><b>Alexandra Park and Palace</b>.—This is situated on +the north side of London, near Hornsey, and is reached by means +of the Great Northern Railway. It has long remained closed +for want of funds, but is expected to be opened in June. +Its objects, &c., are similar <a name="page168"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 168</span>to those of the Crystal +Palace. The building was erected from the remains of the +Exhibition of 1862.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p168ab.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Albert Memorial" +title= +"Albert Memorial" +src="images/p168as.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p168bb.jpg"> +<img alt= +"London Stone. Supposed to be an ancient Roman terminal stone, +whence, as from a centre, the miles were reckoned throughout +Britain." +title= +"London Stone. Supposed to be an ancient Roman terminal stone, +whence, as from a centre, the miles were reckoned throughout +Britain." +src="images/p168bs.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2><a name="page169"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +169</span>APPENDIX.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">TABLES, LISTS, AND USEFUL +HINTS.</span></h2> +<h3>Suburban Towns and Villages within Twelve Miles’ +Railway-distance.</h3> +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> distances are measured from the +terminal stations of the great Companies’ lines. The +names of these stations are abbreviated thus:</p> +<p><i>Padd.</i>—Paddington; Great Western.</p> +<p><i>Eust.</i>—Euston Square; London and North +Western.</p> +<p><i>K. C.</i>—King’s Cross; Great Northern.</p> +<p><i>Shore.</i>—Shoreditch; Great Eastern.</p> +<p><i>Fen.</i>—Fenchurch Street; London and Blackwall.</p> +<p><i>L. B.</i>—London Bridge; South-Eastern, and London +and Brighton.</p> +<p><i>Wat.</i>—Waterloo; London and South-Western.</p> +<p><i>Vic.</i>—Victoria or Pimlico; Crystal Palace and +other railways.</p> +<p><i>N. L.</i>—North London.</p> +<p><i>Lud.</i>—Ludgate Hill; London, Chatham, and +Dover.</p> +<p><i>St. Panc.</i>—St. Pancras; Midland.</p> +<p>The places accommodated by the North London Railway have no +mileage distances named; for all the stations on that line are +equally within the metropolitan limits. The Metropolitan +Railway is not here mentioned at all, for a similar reason. +For all stations on the South-Eastern, the distance from Charing +Cross is about 1¾ miles farther than from London +Bridge. On the Chatham and Dover, most of the stations are +about equidistant from the Ludgate and Victoria termini. +The places reached by steamers are marked <i>St.</i>; while +<i>Om.</i> signifies Omnibus, in cases where there is no very +available railway route. When a town is some little +distance from the nearest station, two mileages are named: thus, +‘Beddington, 10½ Croydon + 2½,’ implies +that after a railway journey of 10½ miles to Croydon, +there are 2½ miles of road.</p> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p>Abbey Wood, Kent</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>12</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3"><p>Acton, Midd. from all N. L. Stations.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Anerley, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>7½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Balham, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>Vic.</p> +</td> +<td><p>5</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>11</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Barking, Essex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Shore. & Fen.</p> +</td> +<td><p>7</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Barking Road, Essex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Shore. & Fen.</p> +</td> +<td><p>5</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Barnes, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wat.</p> +</td> +<td><p>7</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3"><p>—, from all N. L Stations.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Barnet, Herts.</p> +</td> +<td><p>K. C.</p> +</td> +<td><p>10½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Battersea, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>St. & Om.</p> +</td> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Battersea Park</p> +</td> +<td><p>Vic.</p> +</td> +<td><p>1</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Beckenham, Kent</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>9</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>Lud. & Vic.</p> +</td> +<td><p>10</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Beddington, Surr.</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>10½ Croydon +2½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Bickley, Kent</p> +</td> +<td><p>Lud. & Vic.</p> +</td> +<td><p>13</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>12</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Blackheath, Kent</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>6</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><a name="page170"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +170</span>Blackwall, Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Fen.</p> +</td> +<td><p>4½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>St. & Om.</p> +</td> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Bow, Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Fen. & Shore</p> +</td> +<td><p>4</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Brentford, Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wat.</p> +</td> +<td><p>10</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>Padd.</p> +</td> +<td><p>13</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Brixton, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>Vic.</p> +</td> +<td><p>3</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>Lud.</p> +</td> +<td><p>4</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Bromley, Kent</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>10</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>Lud. & Vic.</p> +</td> +<td><p>11</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—, Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Fen.</p> +</td> +<td><p>4</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Buckhurst Hill, Essex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Fen. & Shore.</p> +</td> +<td><p>10</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Bushey Park, Midd.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wat.</p> +</td> +<td><p>13</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Camberwell, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>Lud. & Vic.</p> +</td> +<td><p>4</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Carshalton, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>12</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Catford Bridge, Kent</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>6</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Charlton, Kent</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>7</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>St.</p> +</td> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Chelsea, Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>St. & Om.</p> +</td> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Chigwell, Essex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Fen. & Shore, to Ilford or Woodford.</p> +</td> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Chiswick, Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wat.</p> +</td> +<td><p>8</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Clapham, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wat.</p> +</td> +<td><p>4</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>Vic.</p> +</td> +<td><p>2½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3"><p>Clapton, Midd., from all N. L. Stations to +Hackney.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Colney Hatch, Midd.</p> +</td> +<td><p>K. C.</p> +</td> +<td><p>6</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Crouch End, Midd.</p> +</td> +<td><p>K. C.</p> +</td> +<td><p>4 Hornsey + 1½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Croydon, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>10½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>Vic.</p> +</td> +<td><p>12</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Crystal Palace, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>7</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>Vic.</p> +</td> +<td><p>9</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>Lud.</p> +</td> +<td><p>9</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3"><p>Dalston, Middlesex, all N. L. Stations.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Deptford, Kent</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>3½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Ditton, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wat.</p> +</td> +<td><p>12 Kingston + 2</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Dulwich, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>Lud. & Vic.</p> +</td> +<td><p>5</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Ealing, Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Padd.</p> +</td> +<td><p>6</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>East Ham, Essex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Fen.</p> +</td> +<td><p>6</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Edgeware, Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>K. C. & Om.</p> +</td> +<td><p>8½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Edmonton, Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Shore.</p> +</td> +<td><p>9½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Elstree, Herts</p> +</td> +<td><p>St. Panc. & Om.</p> +</td> +<td><p>11</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Eltham, Kent</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>6 Blackheath + 2</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Enfield, Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Shore.</p> +</td> +<td><p>12</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3"><p>Finchley, Middlesex, from all N. L. Stations +to Finchley Road.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>K. C.</p> +</td> +<td><p>7¼</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Forest Gate, Essex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Shore.</p> +</td> +<td><p>5</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Forest Hill, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>Vic.</p> +</td> +<td><p>11</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>5</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Fulham, Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wat.</p> +</td> +<td><p>6 Putney + ½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>St. & Om.</p> +</td> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Gipsy Hill, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>8</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>Vic.</p> +</td> +<td><p>8</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Greenwich, Kent</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>4½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>St. & Om.</p> +</td> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3"><p>Hackney, Midd., from all N. L. Stations.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Hadley, Midd.</p> +</td> +<td><p>K. C.</p> +</td> +<td><p>10 Barnet + 1</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Ham, Surrey,</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wat.</p> +</td> +<td><p>12 Kingston + 2</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3"><p>Hammersmith, Midd., from all N. L. and +Metropolitan Stations.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>St. & Om.</p> +</td> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3"><p>Hampstead, Midd., from all N. L. Stations.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Hanwell, Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Padd.</p> +</td> +<td><p>7½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Harlington, Midd.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Padd.</p> +</td> +<td><p>9 Southall + 3½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Harrow, Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Eust.</p> +</td> +<td><p>12</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Hatcham, Kent</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>4</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Hayes, Kent</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>10 Bromley + 2</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—, Midd.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Padd.</p> +</td> +<td><p>7 Hanwell + 3</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Hendon, Midd.</p> +</td> +<td><p>St. Panc. & Om</p> +</td> +<td><p>7</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Herne Hill, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>Lud. & Vic.</p> +</td> +<td><p>6</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Highgate, Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>K. C.</p> +</td> +<td><p>4¾</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>Om.</p> +</td> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Holloway, Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>K. C.</p> +</td> +<td><p>2</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3"><p>Homerton, Midd., from all N. L. Stations to +Hackney.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Hornsey, Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>K. C.</p> +</td> +<td><p>4</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Hounslow, Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wat.</p> +</td> +<td><p>12</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Ilford, Essex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Shore.</p> +</td> +<td><p>7</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Isleworth, Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wat.</p> +</td> +<td><p>12</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3"><p>Kensal Green, Midd., from N. L. Stations.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3"><p>Kensington, Midd., from Metrop Stats.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3"><p>Kentish Town, Middlesex from all N. L. +Stations.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Keston, Kent</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>10 Bromley + 4</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Kew, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wat.</p> +</td> +<td><p>9</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3"><p>—, from all N. L. Stations.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>St. & Om.</p> +</td> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Kilburn, Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Eust.</p> +</td> +<td><p>3</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3"><p>Kingsland, Midd., from all N. L. Stations.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Kingston, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wat.</p> +</td> +<td><p>12</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Lady Well, Kent</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>5</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Lea Bridge, Essex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Shore.</p> +</td> +<td><p>5½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Lee, Kent</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>6 Blackheath + 1</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Lewisham, Kent</p> +</td> +<td><p>L B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>5</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Leytonstone, Essex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Shore. & Fen.</p> +</td> +<td><p>6</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Loughton, Essex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Shore. & Fen.</p> +</td> +<td><p>12</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Low Leyton, Essex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Shore. & Fen.</p> +</td> +<td><p>5</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Maldon, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wat.</p> +</td> +<td><p>10</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Merton, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wat.</p> +</td> +<td><p>9</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Mill Hill, Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>K. C.</p> +</td> +<td><p>8¼; Om. 7</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Mims, Midd.</p> +</td> +<td><p>K. C.</p> +</td> +<td><p>12 Potter’s Bar + 2</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Mitcham, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wat.</p> +</td> +<td><p>10</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>10½ Croydon + 4</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Morden, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wat.</p> +</td> +<td><p>8 Wimbledon + 2</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Mortlake, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wat.</p> +</td> +<td><p>8</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Muswell Hill, Midd.</p> +</td> +<td><p>K. C.</p> +</td> +<td><p>4 Hornsey + 1½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>New Cross, Kent</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>3</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>North Woolwich, Ess.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Shore. & Fen.</p> +</td> +<td><p>7</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>St.</p> +</td> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Norwood, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>8½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>Vic.</p> +</td> +<td><p>8</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Parson’s Green, Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Om.</p> +</td> +<td><p>4</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Peckham, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>Lud.</p> +</td> +<td><p>5</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Penge, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>7</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>Lud. & Vic.</p> +</td> +<td><p>9</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Plaistow, Essex.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Fen.</p> +</td> +<td><p>5</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Plumstead, Kent</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>10</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><a name="page171"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +171</span>Ponders’s End, Midd.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Shore.</p> +</td> +<td><p>12</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Poplar, Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Fen.</p> +</td> +<td><p>4</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Potters’s Bar, Midd.</p> +</td> +<td><p>K. C.</p> +</td> +<td><p>12</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Putney, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wat.</p> +</td> +<td><p>6</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>St. & Om.</p> +</td> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Richmond, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wat.</p> +</td> +<td><p>10</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3"><p>— from all N. L. Stations.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>St. & Om.</p> +</td> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Roehampton, Surr.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wat.</p> +</td> +<td><p>6 Putney + 1½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Romford, Essex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Shore.</p> +</td> +<td><p>12</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Shacklewell, Midd.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Om.</p> +</td> +<td><p>3</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Shepherd’s Bush, Midd.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Metrop. Stats.</p> +</td> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Shooter’s Hill, Kent</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>9 Woolwich + 2</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Shortlands, Kent</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>10</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>Lud. & Vic.</p> +</td> +<td><p>10</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Snaresbrook, Essex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Fen. & Shore.</p> +</td> +<td><p>7</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Southall, Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Padd.</p> +</td> +<td><p>9</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Southgate, Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>K. C.</p> +</td> +<td><p>7</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Stamford Hill, Midd.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Om.</p> +</td> +<td><p>4</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Stanmore, Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Om.</p> +</td> +<td><p>10</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3"><p>Stepney, Midd. from all N. L. Stations.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Stockwell, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>Om.</p> +</td> +<td><p>4</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3"><p>Stoke Newington, Midd. from all N. L. +Stations.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Stratford, Essex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Shore. & Fen.</p> +</td> +<td><p>4</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Streatham, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>10</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>Vic.</p> +</td> +<td><p>6</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Teddington, and Bushey Park</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wat.</p> +</td> +<td><p>13</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Thornton Heath, Surr.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Vic.</p> +</td> +<td><p>9</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Tooting, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B., Vic. & Lud.</p> +</td> +<td><p>8</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Tottenham, Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Shore.</p> +</td> +<td><p>8</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Totteridge, Herts.</p> +</td> +<td><p>K. C.</p> +</td> +<td><p>10½ Barnet + 2</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Turnham Green, Midd.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Om.</p> +</td> +<td><p>5</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3"><p>— from all N. L. Stations, Wat. and +Lud.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Twickenham, Midd.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wat.</p> +</td> +<td><p>11¼</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3"><p>— from all N. L. Stations.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Vauxhall, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wat.</p> +</td> +<td><p>1½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>St.</p> +</td> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Walham Green, Midd.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Om.</p> +</td> +<td><p>3</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Walthamstow, Essex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Shore., Station at Lea Bridge</p> +</td> +<td><p>5¾, and Om.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Wandsworth, Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wat.</p> +</td> +<td><p>5</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>Vic.</p> +</td> +<td><p>2</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Wanstead, Essex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Shore. & Fen, Snaresbrook Station.</p> +</td> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Welling, Kent</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>9 Woolwich + 2½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>West Ham, Essex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Fen.</p> +</td> +<td><p>4</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>West Wickham, Surr.</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>10½ Croydon + 4</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Whetstone, Midd.</p> +</td> +<td><p>K. C.</p> +</td> +<td><p>6 Colney Hatch + 2</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Willesden, Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Eust.</p> +</td> +<td><p>6½</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Wimbledon, Surrey,</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wat.</p> +</td> +<td><p>7</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Woodford, Essex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Shore. & Fen.</p> +</td> +<td><p>9</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Wood Green, Midd.</p> +</td> +<td><p>K. C.</p> +</td> +<td><p>5</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Woolwich Dockyard, Kent</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>8</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>— Arsenal</p> +</td> +<td><p>L. B.</p> +</td> +<td><p>9</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>——Dockyard and Arsenal</p> +</td> +<td><p>St.</p> +</td> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h3>CHIEF OMNIBUS ROUTES.</h3> +<p>There are few better ways for a man to see London, on a fine +day, than by riding through it on an omnibus. These +vehicles mostly begin to run about 8.30–9 a.m., and cease +about 12 p.m. To give more than a mere general notion as +regards a few of the chief omnibus routes, is impossible in our +limited space here. The fares range, for the most part, +from a minimum of 2d. to a maximum of 6d. They are painted +inside the omnibus: the main localities passed on the way, +outside. The groups of these conveyances known by +distinctive <i>names</i>, (all the omnibuses of each group having +one common name,) are chiefly the following:—</p> +<p><i>Atlas</i>—colour, green—running between St. +John’s Wood and Camberwell Gate, and <i>vice versa</i>, +<i>via</i> Oxford Street, and over Westminster Bridge—every +5 minutes.</p> +<p><i>City Atlas</i>—green—between Swiss Cottage, St. +John’s Wood, and London Bridge Station, and <i>vice +versa</i>, <i>via</i> Oxford St., Holborn, Bank—every 7 +minutes.</p> +<p><i>Bayswater</i>—light green—from Notting Hill and +Bayswater to Mile-End <a name="page172"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 172</span>Gate, <i>via</i> Oxford Street, +Holborn, Cornhill, Whitechapel—every 6 minutes.</p> +<p><i>Bayswater</i> to <i>London Bridge Station</i>, <i>via</i> +Oxford Street, Holborn, Cheapside—every few minutes.</p> +<p><i>Bayswater</i> to <i>Shoreditch Station</i>—Oxford +Street, Holborn, Cheapside, Threadneedle Street, Bishopsgate +Street—every hour.</p> +<p><i>Citizen</i>—<i>Paddington</i> to <i>London Bridge +Station</i>—Edgeware Road, (only,) Oxford Street, Holborn, +Bank—every 8 minutes.</p> +<p>Other omnibuses also run to and from Paddington, as +follows:—</p> +<p><i>Paddington</i> to <i>London Bridge +Station</i>—green—Royal Oak, Edgeware Road, New Road, +City Road, Bank—every 10 minutes.</p> +<p><i>Paddington</i> to <i>Fenchurch Station</i>—Some of +the above go to Fenchurch instead of London Bridge Station.</p> +<p><i>Paddington</i> to <i>Whitechapel</i>—green—as +above to Bank, then Cornhill and Aldgate—frequent.</p> +<p><i>Paddington</i> to <i>Charing +Cross</i>—red—Edgeware Road, Oxford and Regent +Streets, Charing Cross—every 8 minutes.</p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p><i>Favorite</i>—green—Holloway to London Bridge, +<i>via</i> Highbury, Islington, City Road, Bank, King William +Street—about every 8 minutes.</p> +<p><i>Favorite</i>—green—Holloway to Westminster, +Islington, Exmouth Street, Chancery Lane, Westminster Abbey, +Victoria Street.</p> +<p><i>Favorite</i>—blue—Holloway Road, Caledonian +Road, King’s Cross, Euston Road, Portland Road, Regent +Street, Piccadilly, Knightsbridge, South Kensington, Museum, +“Queen’s Elm”—every 9 minutes.</p> +<p><i>Havelock</i>—Kingsland Gate to “Elephant and +Castle,” <i>via</i> Shoreditch, Bishopsgate Street, London +Bridge, Borough—at frequent intervals.</p> +<p><i>Paragon</i>—green—Brixton to Gracechurch +Street, Kensington, “Elephant and Castle,” London +Bridge—every 10 minutes.</p> +<p><i>Buxton</i> to <i>Oxford Street</i>—Kensington, +Westminster Bridge, Charing Cross, Regent Street—every half +hour.</p> +<p><i>Royal Blue</i>—blue—Pimlico, Piccadilly, +Strand, Cheapside, Fenchurch Street Station—every 8 or 10 +minutes.</p> +<p><i>Waterloo</i>—blue—from “York and +Albany,” Regent’s Park, by Albany Street, Regent +Street, Westminster Bridge, “Elephant and Castle” to +Camberwell Gate—every 6 minutes.</p> +<p><i>Westminster</i>—brown—Pimlico to Bank, +<i>via</i> Lupus Street, Vauxhall Bridge Road, Westminster, +Strand, &c.—every 6 minutes.</p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Such are a few of the numerous omnibus routes of London. +From such places as Charing Cross and the London Bridge Stations, +you can get an omnibus for almost any part of London, up till +nearly midnight; while, by the aid of a map, no matter in what +quarter you may be, you will speedily <a name="page173"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 173</span>find out how best to consult your +particular tastes in the way of locomotion and +sight-seeing. In the case of gross incivility or +overcharge, you have a simple remedy by taking the +conductor’s number and applying for a summons at the +nearest police office. If you are curious in the matter of +social contrasts, say, you might do worse than by getting up +outside a <i>Stratford and Bow</i> (green) omnibus, at the Oxford +Street Circus, and riding—for sixpence all the +way—<i>via</i> Regent Street, Pall Mall, Trafalgar Square, +Strand, Fleet Street, St. Paul’s, past the Mansion House +and the Bank, Royal Exchange, Cornhill, Leadenhall Street, +Aldgate, Whitechapel Road, Mile End, to Stratford. If your +tastes should lead you westward, an enjoyable shilling’s +worth may be obtained by riding on the <i>Richmond</i> (white) +omnibus, from St. Paul’s Churchyard to that prettily +situated little town.</p> +<h3>LONDON TRAMWAYS.</h3> +<p>There are now <i>three</i> Tramway Companies in +London:—1. <i>The Metropolitan Street Tramways +Company</i>, (<i>Limited</i>.) They run regularly from +Westminster Bridge to Clapham and Brixton, at about every 5 +minutes from each terminus, Fare 3d. 2. <i>North +Metropolitan Tramways Company</i>: (1) From Aldgate, along +Whitechapel and Mile End Road (through Bow) to Stratford Church; +(2) From Moorgate Street to the Angel, Islington, thence to +Kingsland, Stoke Newington, &c. Both running every 5 +minutes, Fares 2d.; (3) another route is by Old Street to Stoke +Newington and Clapton. 3. <i>Southall</i>, +<i>Ealing</i>, <i>and Shepherd’s Bush Tram Railway +Company</i>, (<i>Limited</i>.) This company is constructing +lines in the western suburbs of London. There are tramways +in the north-west of town.</p> +<h3>CLUBS AND CLUB HOUSES.</h3> +<p>There are, in all, in London, about ninety. The +following is a list of the principal club-houses:—</p> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p>Alpine</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> +</td> +<td><p>St. Martin’s Place, Trafalgar Square.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Army and Navy</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">36 to 39</p> +</td> +<td><p>Pall Mall, S. W.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Arthur’s</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">69 and 70</p> +</td> +<td><p>St. James’s Street.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Arundel</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> +</td> +<td><p>Salisbury Street, Strand.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Athenæum</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">107</p> +</td> +<td><p>Pall Mall.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Brooks’s</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">59</p> +</td> +<td><p>St. James’s Street.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Carlton</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">94</p> +</td> +<td><p>Pall Mall.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>City Carlton</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">83</p> +</td> +<td><p>King William Street, E.C.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Cavendish</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">307</p> +</td> +<td><p>Regent Street.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>City of London</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">19</p> +</td> +<td><p>Old Broad Street, City.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><a name="page174"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +174</span>Conservative</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">74</p> +</td> +<td><p>St. James’s Street.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>East India United Service</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> +</td> +<td><p>St. James’s Square.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Garrick</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">13–15</p> +</td> +<td><p>Garrick Street, Covent Garden.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Gresham</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">1</p> +</td> +<td><p>Gresham Place, City.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Guards’</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">70</p> +</td> +<td><p>Pall Mall.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Junior Athenæum</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">29</p> +</td> +<td><p>King Street, St. James’s.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Junior Carlton</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">30 to 35</p> +</td> +<td><p>Pall Mall.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Junior United Service</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">11 and 12</p> +</td> +<td><p>Charles Street, St. James’s.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Junior Army and Navy</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">13</p> +</td> +<td><p>Grafton Street, Bond Street.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Naval and Military</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">94</p> +</td> +<td><p>Piccadilly.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>New University</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">57</p> +</td> +<td><p>St. James’s Street.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Oriental</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> +</td> +<td><p>Hanover Square.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Oxford and Cambridge University</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">71 to 76</p> +</td> +<td><p>Pall Mall.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Portland</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">1</p> +</td> +<td><p>Stratford Place, Oxford Street.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Pratt’s</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> +</td> +<td><p>Park Place, St. James’s.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Reform</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">104</p> +</td> +<td><p>Pall Mall.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Smithfield</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">47</p> +</td> +<td><p>Halfmoon Street, Piccadilly.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>St. James’s</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">106</p> +</td> +<td><p>Piccadilly.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Travellers’</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">106</p> +</td> +<td><p>Pall Mall.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Union</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"> </p> +</td> +<td><p>Trafalgar Square, (S.W. Corner.)</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>United Service</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">116 and 117</p> +</td> +<td><p>Pall Mall.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>United University</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> +</td> +<td><p>Pall Mall, East.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Westminster</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">23</p> +</td> +<td><p>Albemarle Street.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Whitehall</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"> </p> +</td> +<td><p>Parliament Street.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>White’s</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">37 and 38</p> +</td> +<td><p>St. James’s Street.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Windham</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">11</p> +</td> +<td><p>St. James’s Square.</p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h3>THE LONDON PARCELS DELIVERY COMPANY.</h3> +<p>This Company—whose chief office is in Roll’s +Buildings, Fetter Lane, Fleet Street, and whose minor receiving +houses, at shops, &c., are very numerous—delivers +parcels at a tariff of 4d. if under 4 lbs. weight, and within +three miles distance; under 14 lbs. within a like range, 6d.; and +so on up to a cwt., which will be delivered for 1s. 2d., subject +to the aforesaid condition. Over three miles distance, the +charge for delivering a parcel under 1 lb. to any part of London +and its environs will be 4d., under 7 lbs., 6d., and so +forth. For a parcel under 112 lbs., if carried beyond three +miles, sender will be charged 1s. 6d. To more distant +places, minimum charge is 6d. Light but bulky packages +charged for by measurement. The Company does not undertake +to <i>collect</i> parcels from the houses of the senders.</p> +<h3><a name="page175"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +175</span>MONEY-ORDER OFFICES, AND POST-OFFICE +SAVINGS-BANKS.</h3> +<p>The <i>London Postal District</i>, to which special rules +relate, includes every town and village within twelve miles of +the General Post-office. Reference has already been made to +the number of post-offices, receiving-houses, and pillar-boxes, +in this area. There are 500 <i>Money-order Offices</i>, the +whole of which (with a very few exceptions) have within a recent +period been made <i>Post-office Savings-banks</i> also. The +facilities thus afforded to strangers visiting London for a few +days, for receiving or transmitting money, are very great. +A Post-office Money-order will convey sums of a few pounds +without risk of loss, at a cost of a few pence, either from the +visitor to his country friends, or from them to him. The +Post-office Savings-banks are even still more convenient; for a +person residing in the country, and having money in the +savings-banks, <i>can draw it out in London</i> during his visit, +or any part of it, with a delay of a day or two, free of +expense. In whatever part of London a visitor may be, he is +within five or ten minutes’ walk of a Money-order Office; +and at any such office he can, for six hours a day, (10 till 4,) +obtain the requisite information concerning both of these kinds +of economical monetary facilities.</p> +<h3>LONDON LETTERS, POSTAL AND TELEGRAPH SYSTEM.</h3> +<p>As just stated, the <i>London District Post</i> operates +within twelve miles of the General Post-office: that is, within a +circle of twenty-four miles in diameter. There are a few +outlying patches beyond this circle, but they need not here be +taken into account. This large area is now divided into +eight <i>Postal Districts</i>, each of which has a name, an +initial abbreviation, and a chief office. They are as +follows:—</p> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p>E. C.</p> +</td> +<td><p><i>Eastern Central</i></p> +</td> +<td><p>St. Martin’s-le-Grand, (head office.)</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>W. C.</p> +</td> +<td><p><i>Western Central</i></p> +</td> +<td><p>126 High Holborn.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>N.</p> +</td> +<td><p><i>Northern</i></p> +</td> +<td><p>Packington Street, Islington.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>E.</p> +</td> +<td><p><i>Eastern</i></p> +</td> +<td><p>Nassau Place, Commercial Road, East.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>S. E.</p> +</td> +<td><p><i>South-Eastern</i></p> +</td> +<td><p>9 Blackman Street, Borough.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>S. W.</p> +</td> +<td><p><i>South-Western</i></p> +</td> +<td><p>8 Buckingham Gate.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>W.</p> +</td> +<td><p><i>Western</i></p> +</td> +<td><p>3 Vere Street, Oxford Street.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>N. W.</p> +</td> +<td><p><i>North-Western</i></p> +</td> +<td><p>28 Eversholt Street, Oakley Square.</p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>The use of the district system is, that if a letter, arriving +from the country, has on the outside the <i>district initials</i> +as well as the address, it has a fair chance of <i>earlier +delivery</i>; and if sent from one part of London to another, +such chance is the greater. The reason for this is, that +much of the sorting is effected at the eight chief district +offices, if the initials are given, to the great saving of +time. An official list of a vast number of <a +name="page176"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 176</span>streets, +&c., with their district initials, within the London District +Post, is published at 1d., and is obtainable at most of the +principal receiving-houses.</p> +<p>The portion of each district within about three miles of the +General Post-office is called the Town Delivery, and the +remainder the Suburban Delivery. Within the town limits +there are twelve deliveries daily: the first, or General Post, +commencing about 7.30, and mostly over in London about 9; the +second commencing about 8.15, and the third at 10.30. The +next nine are made hourly. The last delivery begins about +7.45. There are seven despatches daily to the suburban +districts. The first, at 6.30 a.m., to all places within +the London District limits. A second, at 9.30, to suburbs +within about four miles of the General Post-office. The +third, at 11.30, takes in almost all the London district. +The fourth despatch, at 2.30 p.m., goes to spots within about six +miles of the General Post-office. The fifth, at 4.30, +comprises the whole of the suburban districts, and, except in the +more outlying country spots, letters are delivered same +evening. The sixth, at 6 p.m., goes to places under four +miles from the General Post-office. The last despatch is at +7 p.m. Letters to go by it should be posted at the town +post-offices or pillar-boxes by 6 p.m., or at the <i>chief</i> +office of the district to which they are addressed. They +will thus probably be delivered the same night, within about six +miles of the General Office. The suburban deliveries begin +one to two hours after despatch, according to distance.</p> +<p>It is always well to remember, that for any given delivery, a +letter may be posted rather later at the chief office than at any +of the minor offices of each district; that <i>letters</i> only, +not newspapers, book-parcels, manuscripts, &c., may be put in +pillar-boxes; and that letters posted during the night, (from 9 +p.m. to 5 a.m.,) have a chance of earlier delivery than +otherwise, seeing that the pillar-boxes are cleared at 5 in the +morning, and, as a rule, we believe, earlier than the +receiving-houses. Outgoing letters for the evening mails +are received at most offices till 5.30, and at the chief office +of each district till 6. By affixing an extra penny stamp, +the letter is receivable till 6 at the minor, and till 7 at the +chief offices.</p> +<p><b>Telegraph Offices</b>.—Telegrams may be sent from all +Postal Offices within the London district. The charge for +20 words, not including address, is 1s.</p> +<h3>READING AND NEWS-ROOMS.</h3> +<p>Jerusalem Coffee-house, Cowper’s Court, Cornhill, +(Indian, China, and Australian newspapers.)</p> +<p>3 Wallbrook.</p> +<p>154 Leadenhall Street, (Deacon’s.)</p> +<p>13 Philpot Lane.</p> +<p>Royal Exchange, Lloyds’, (Subscribers only.)</p> +<p>King’s Head, Fenchurch Street.</p> +<p><a name="page177"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 177</span>26 +Fore Street, Cripplegate.</p> +<p>88 Park Street, Camden Town.</p> +<p>83 Lower Thames Street.</p> +<p>177, 178 Fleet Street, (Peele’s—files of the +<i>Times</i> for many years.)</p> +<p>24 King William Street, (Wild’s.)</p> +<p>34 Mount Street, Grosvenor Square, (St. George’s.)</p> +<p>22 Paddington Green, (Working Men’s.)</p> +<p>Patent Museum Library, Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane, +(free.)</p> +<p>British Museum Library, (apply for ticket; enclosing letter of +introduction from respectable householder.)</p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>There are Reading and News Rooms belonging to a large number +of learned societies and public institutions; but these are for +the most part accessible only to members.</p> +<h3>CHESS ROOMS.</h3> +<p>A chess player may meet with competitors at any one of the +several chess rooms. The best are Simpson’s, (Limited +Co.,) late Ries’s, <i>Divan</i>, opposite Exeter Hall, +Strand; Kilpack’s, Covent Garden, (also an American Bowling +Saloon;) and Pursell’s, Cornhill. Many Coffee-shops +are provided with chess-boards and men, and many dining and chop +houses have chess-rooms up-stairs.</p> +<h3>THEATRES.</h3> +<p>There are at present about thirty-seven London Theatres, but +those named below are all that need here be considered.</p> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p>Adelphi</p> +</td> +<td><p>Strand.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Alhambra</p> +</td> +<td><p>Leicester Square.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Astley’s Amphitheatre</p> +</td> +<td><p>6½ Bridge Road, Lambeth.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Royal Amphitheatre</p> +</td> +<td><p>Holborn.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Britannia Theatre</p> +</td> +<td><p>Hoxton Old Town.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Charing Cross</p> +</td> +<td><p>King William Street, Strand.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>City of London</p> +</td> +<td><p>36 Norton Folgate.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Covent Garden, (Opera House)</p> +</td> +<td><p>Bow Street.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Court Theatre</p> +</td> +<td><p>Sloane Square.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Drury Lane</p> +</td> +<td><p>Brydges Street.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Gaiety</p> +</td> +<td><p>Strand.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Garrick</p> +</td> +<td><p>Leman Street, Goodman’s Fields.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Globe</p> +</td> +<td><p>Strand.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Grecian</p> +</td> +<td><p>City Road.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Great Eastern</p> +</td> +<td><p>Whitechapel Road.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><a name="page178"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +178</span>Haymarket</p> +</td> +<td><p>East side of Haymarket.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Holborn</p> +</td> +<td><p>Holborn.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>King’s Cross</p> +</td> +<td><p>Liverpool Street, King’s Cross.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Her Majesty’s, (Opera House)</p> +</td> +<td><p>West side of Haymarket.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Lyceum</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wellington Street, Strand.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Marylebone</p> +</td> +<td><p>New Church Street, Lisson Grove.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Olympic</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wych Street, Drury Lane.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Opera Comique</p> +</td> +<td><p>Strand.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Pavilion</p> +</td> +<td><p>85 Whitechapel Road.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Philharmonic</p> +</td> +<td><p>Islington.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Princess’s</p> +</td> +<td><p>73 Oxford Street.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Prince of Wales’s</p> +</td> +<td><p>4 and 5 Tottenham Street.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Queen’s, (late St. Martin’s Hall)</p> +</td> +<td><p>Longacre.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Royalty, or Soho</p> +</td> +<td><p>73 Dean Street, Soho.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Sadler’s Wells</p> +</td> +<td><p>St. John’s Street Road.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>St. James’s</p> +</td> +<td><p>23 King Street, St. James’s.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Standard</p> +</td> +<td><p>204 Shoreditch, High Street.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Strand</p> +</td> +<td><p>Between 168 and 169 Strand.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Surrey</p> +</td> +<td><p>124 Blackfriars Road.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Vaudeville</p> +</td> +<td><p>Strand.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Victoria</p> +</td> +<td><p>135 Waterloo Road.</p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h3>CONCERT ROOMS.</h3> +<p>Willis’s Rooms, King Street, St. James’s.</p> +<p>Hanover Square Rooms.</p> +<p>Exeter Hall, 372 Strand, Choral Societies, Sacred Harmonic, +&c.</p> +<p>St. James’s Hall, Quadrant and +Piccadilly,—Concerts occasionally.</p> +<p>16 Store Street, Bedford Square, „ „</p> +<p>St. George’s Hall, Langham Place.</p> +<p>Princess’s Concert Room, Princess’s +Theatre,—Concerts occasionally.</p> +<p>Queen’s Concert Room, (attached to Her Majesty’s +Theatre,)—Concerts occasionally.</p> +<p>Myddleton Hall, Upper Street, Islington.</p> +<p>Agricultural Hall, Islington,—Concerts occasionally.</p> +<h3>MUSIC HALLS.</h3> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p>Alhambra <a name="citation178"></a><a href="#footnote178" +class="citation">[178]</a></p> +</td> +<td><p>Leicester Square, (east side.)</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Alhambra (Temperance) Music Hall</p> +</td> +<td><p>Shoreditch.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Borough Music Hall</p> +</td> +<td><p>170 Union Street.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Cambridge Music Hall</p> +</td> +<td><p>Commercial Street.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Canterbury Hall</p> +</td> +<td><p>Lambeth Upper Marsh.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><a name="page179"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +179</span>Deacon’s</p> +</td> +<td><p>Sadler’s Wells.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Evans’</p> +</td> +<td><p>Covent Garden.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Islington Philharmonic Hall <a name="citation179"></a><a +href="#footnote179" class="citation">[179]</a></p> +</td> +<td><p>High Street, Islington.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Marylebone</p> +</td> +<td><p>High Street</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Metropolitan Music Hall</p> +</td> +<td><p>125 Edgeware Road.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Middlesex</p> +</td> +<td><p>Drury Lane.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>The Oxford</p> +</td> +<td><p>6 Oxford Street, (east end.)</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Pavilion Music Hall</p> +</td> +<td><p>Tichborne Street, Haymarket.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Raglan Music Hall</p> +</td> +<td><p>26 Theobald’s Road.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Regent</p> +</td> +<td><p>Vincent Square, Westminster.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>South London Music Hall</p> +</td> +<td><p>92 London Rd., St. George’s Fields.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Royal (late Weston’s) Music Hall</p> +</td> +<td><p>242 High Holborn.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Wilton’s Music Hall</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wellclose Square.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Winchester Hall</p> +</td> +<td><p>Southwark Bridge Road.</p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h3>MODES OF ADMISSION TO VARIOUS INTERESTING PLACES.</h3> +<h4>Free.</h4> +<p><i>British Museum</i>.—<i>Chelsea +Hospital</i>.—<i>Courts of Law and Justice</i> (at the +Criminal Court and the Police Courts a fee is often +needed.)—<i>Docks</i>, (but not the vaults and warehouses +without an introduction.)—<i>Dulwich +Gallery</i>.—<i>East India Museum</i>, Fife House, +Whitehall.—<i>Greenwich Hospital</i>, (a small fee for some +parts.)—<i>Hampton Court Palace</i>, (Sundays as well as +week-days).—<i>Houses of Parliament</i>, (some portions +every day; more on Saturdays.)—<i>Kew Botanic Garden and +Pleasure Grounds</i>, (Sundays as well as +week-days.)—<i>Museum of Economic Geology</i>, Jermyn +Street.—<i>National Gallery</i>.—<i>National Portrait +Gallery</i>.—<i>Patent Museum</i>, (adjoining the South +Kensington Museum.)—<i>Soane’s Museum</i>, +Lincoln’s Inn Fields.—<i>Society of Arts</i> +Exhibition of Inventions, (in the spring of each +year.)—<i>St. Paul’s Cathedral</i>, (fees for Crypt +and all above stairs.)—<i>Westminster Abbey</i>, (a fee for +some of the Chapels.)—<i>Westminster +Hall</i>.—<i>Windsor Castle</i>, (at periods notified from +time to time.)—<i>Woolwich Repository</i>, (the Dockyard +was closed in October, 1869, and a letter of introduction is +needed for the Arsenal.) Private Picture Galleries are +sometimes opened free; of which notice is given in the +newspapers.</p> +<h4>Shilling Admissions.</h4> +<p>The number of Shilling Exhibitions open in London is at all +times very large, but more especially in the summer months. +The first page of the <i>Times</i> contains advertisements +relating to the whole of them; while the <a +name="page180"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 180</span>penny +papers contain a considerable number. As the list varies +from time to time, we cannot print it here; but the following are +the chief places where the exhibitions or entertainments are +held. (Theatres and Music Halls are not included; because +the terms of admission vary to different parts of those +buildings. We may here add that <i>Burford’s</i> and +the <i>Colosseum</i> have long been closed.)—<i>Cremorne +Gardens</i>, Chelsea.—<i>Crystal Palace</i>, Sydenham, (2s. +6d. on Saturday, 1s. on other days.)—<i>Egyptian Hall</i>, +Piccadilly, (sometimes two or three exhibitions at once, in +different parts of the building.)—<i>Gallery of +Illustration</i>, Regent Street.—Various temporary +exhibitions in large rooms situated in the Haymarket, Pall Mall, +Regent Street, Piccadilly, and Bond Street.—<i>Picture +Exhibitions</i>, (such as the <i>Royal Academy</i>, the +<i>British Institution</i>, the <i>Society of British +Artists</i>, two <i>Water Colour Societies</i>, +&c.)—<i>Polytechnic Institution</i>, Regent +Street.—<i>Polygraphic Hall</i>, +Strand.—<i>Tussaud’s Waxwork</i>, Baker Street +Bazaar.—<i>Zoological Gardens</i>, (sixpence on +Mondays.)</p> +<h4>Admit by Introduction.</h4> +<p>Among the places to which admission may be obtained by +personal introduction, or by letter, the following may be +named:—<i>Antiquarian Society’s Museum</i>, Somerset +House.—<i>Armourer’s Museum</i>, (ancient armour,) 81 +Coleman Street.—<i>Asiatic Society’s Museum</i>, 5 +New Burlington Street.—<i>Bank of England Museum</i>, +(collection of coins.)—<i>Botanical Society’s Gardens +and Museum</i>, Regent’s Park.—<i>College of +Surgeons’ Museum</i>, Lincoln’s Inn +Fields.—<i>Guildhall Museum</i>, (old London +antiquities.)—<i>Linnæan Society’s Museum</i>, +Burlington House.—<i>Mint</i>, (process of coining,) Tower +Hill.—<i>Missionary Museum</i>, (idols, rude implements, +&c.,) Bloomfield Street, Finsbury.—<i>Naval Museum</i>, +(formerly, now at South Kensington.)—<i>Private Picture +Galleries</i>, (several.)—<i>Royal Institution Museum</i>, +Albemarle Street.—<i>Trinity House Museum</i>, (models of +lighthouses, &c.,) Tower Hill.—<i>United Service +Museum</i>, Scotland Yard.—<i>Woolwich Arsenal</i>.</p> +<p><i>N.B.</i>—These lists are subject to constant +change.</p> +<h3>PRINCIPAL PUBLIC AND TURKISH BATHS.</h3> +<p>(Those printed in <i>italics</i> are public baths, established +rather for the benefit of the working and middle classes, than +for the sake of profit. At most of them a third-class cold +bath can be obtained for 1d.; from which minimum the prices rise +to about 6d. or 8d. Many of the so-called <i>Turkish</i> +baths are ordinary baths in which the arrangements for the +Turkish or Oriental system have recently been introduced. +There are also a few <i>Medicated Baths</i>, kept by medical +practitioners for the use of invalids.)</p> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p><a name="page181"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +181</span><i>Bermondsey Baths</i></p> +</td> +<td><p>39 <i>Spa Road</i>, <i>Bermondsey</i>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><i>Bloomsbury</i></p> +</td> +<td><p><i>Endell Street</i>, <i>St. Giles’s</i>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Cadogan</p> +</td> +<td><p>155 Sloane Street, Chelsea.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Coldbath</p> +</td> +<td><p>25 Coldbath Square, Clerkenwell.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Culverwell’s</p> +</td> +<td><p>10 Argyll Place and 5 New Broad Street.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Islington</p> +</td> +<td><p>Cross Street.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Lambeth</p> +</td> +<td><p>8 Mount Street, Lambeth.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Mahomed’s</p> +</td> +<td><p>42 Somerset Street, Portman Square.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Metropolitan</p> +</td> +<td><p>23 Ashley Crescent, City Road.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Old Roman</p> +</td> +<td><p>5 Strand Lane.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Old Royal</p> +</td> +<td><p>10½ and 11 Bath Street, Newgate Street.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Pentonville</p> +</td> +<td><p>Pentonville Road, (south side.)</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><i>Poplar</i></p> +</td> +<td><p><i>East India Road</i>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Portland</p> +</td> +<td><p>Great Portland Street, (east side.)</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Royal York</p> +</td> +<td><p>54 York Terrace, Regent’s Park.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Russell</p> +</td> +<td><p>56 Great Coram Street, Russell Square.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Russian</p> +</td> +<td><p>16a Old Cavendish Street.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><i>St. George’s</i></p> +</td> +<td><p>8 <i>Davis Street</i>, <i>Berkeley Square</i>, <i>and</i> +88 <i>Buckingham Palace Road</i>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>—</p> +</td> +<td><p>22 <i>Lower Belgrave Place</i>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><i>St. James’s</i></p> +</td> +<td><p>16 <i>Marshall Street</i>, <i>Golden Square</i>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><i>St. Martin’s</i></p> +</td> +<td><p><i>Orange Street</i>, <i>Leicester Square</i>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><i>St. Marylebone</i></p> +</td> +<td><p>181 <i>Marylebone Road</i>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Wenlock</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wenlock Road, City Road.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><i>Westminster</i></p> +</td> +<td><p>21 <i>Great Smith Street</i>, <i>Westminster</i>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><i>Whitechapel</i></p> +</td> +<td><p><i>Goulston Square</i>, <i>Whitechapel</i>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>Turkish.</h4> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">191</p> +</td> +<td><p>Blackfriars Road, S.E.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">184</p> +</td> +<td><p>Euston Road, N.W.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">155</p> +</td> +<td><p>Sloane Street, S.W.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">282</p> +</td> +<td><p>Goswell Road, E.C.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> +</td> +<td><p>Kennington Park Road, S.E.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">1</p> +</td> +<td><p>Upper John Street, Golden Square, W.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">55</p> +</td> +<td><p>Marylebone Road, N.W.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">42</p> +</td> +<td><p>Somerset Street, Portman Square, N.W.</p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>Medicated Baths.</h4> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p>Ballard’s</p> +</td> +<td><p>Chapel Place, Cavendish Square.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Campion’s</p> +</td> +<td><p>155 Sloane Street, Chelsea.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Mahomed’s</p> +</td> +<td><p>42 Somerset Street, Portman Square.</p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h3><a name="page182"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +182</span>CABS.</h3> +<p>Practically speaking, the new law ordering cabmen to display a +flag, on which is painted their tariff per mile and per hour, is +a dead letter. Few or none shew flags, and many have none +to shew. Cab proprietors can now charge what they please, +provided they take out a license from the Commissioners of +Metropolitan Police, on which is endorsed the rate by distance or +by time intended to be charged, and the number of persons to be +carried. No fare less than one shilling is to be +offered. The driver is to give passenger a card which +specifies the licensed price per hour or per mile. As +regards luggage, for each package carried outside 2d. extra is +charged. For each person <i>above two</i> 6d. extra on the +entire journey. If such extra person be a child under 10 +years of age, 3d. Two children of such age to be reckoned +as one person. If cab be discharged more than four miles +from Charing Cross by radius, an extra charge will be made for +such excess of distance, as per sum stated on cabman’s +card. Every full mile of such excess will be charged for at +per tariff per mile stated on such card. Driver is not +compelled to drive more than 6 miles. For every quarter of +an hour he is kept waiting, if the cab be hired by time, +one-fourth of his tariff per hour. If hired by distance, +for every quarter of an hour of waiting, the rate charged per +mile. By time, for any period under one hour, the sum +stated on driver’s card as charged per hour. As a +general rule, cabmen charge 2s. per hour for four-wheeled cabs, +and 2s. 6d. for “Hansom;” and by distance, 1s. for +the first mile, and 6d. for the second, and so on. Property +left in hackney carriages should be asked for at the office for +property left in such carriages, at the office of the +Commissioners of Police, Great Scotland Yard, Charing +Cross. Cabmen are bound, under a penalty, to take such lost +property to the nearest police station within 24 hours. In +case of disagreement between a cabman and his passenger, the +latter can compel the cabman to drive to the nearest police +office; and if a Magistrate be then sitting, he will at once +settle the dispute. If such office is closed, the cabman +may be required to drive to the nearest police station, where the +complaint will be entered, and adjudicated at the +magistrate’s next sitting. Our readers cannot do +better than purchase (price 1s.) a little book on the subject of +Cab Fares and Regulations, published under the auspices of the +Commissioners of the Metropolitan Police. It can be ordered +through any bookseller, or may be purchased direct, at the office +for its sale, a few doors north of the entrance to Great Scotland +Yard. In it will be found a list of fares, and the +distances in yards, from many parts in London to others. +Its usefulness will amply repay our readers for their small +outlay in its purchase.</p> +<h3><a name="page183"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +183</span>HINTS TO STRANGERS.</h3> +<p>Whether you know the proper cab-fare or not, always make a +bargain with the cabman when hiring his vehicle; and take a note +of his number.</p> +<p>Keep the right hand side of the pavement when walking.</p> +<p>If out with other country friends, keep well together.</p> +<p>Observe caution while crossing crowded thoroughfares.</p> +<p>In asking for information, apply to shopkeepers, or to +policemen, rather than to passers-by.</p> +<p>The London police are, for the most part, reliable men; and +strangers in any doubt or difficulty can generally obtain useful +aid from them.</p> +<p>Be on your guard against pickpockets in crowds, street +exhibitions, and omnibuses.</p> +<p>Beware of strangers who endeavour to force their acquaintance +on you, and affect to be unacquainted with London; they are often +low sharpers.</p> +<p>Keep no more cash about you than is needed for the day’s +supply.</p> +<p>Be cautious in opening your purse or looking at your watch in +the streets.</p> +<p>Avoid low neighbourhoods after dark; if there is anything +worth seeing there, see it in the daytime.</p> +<p>Disregard street-beggars; residents only (and not always even +they) can tell the deserving from the undeserving.</p> +<h3>COMMISSIONAIRES OR MESSENGERS.</h3> +<p>These are a body of retired soldiers of good character, who +were originally organized in 1859, by Captain Walter. Their +central office, open day and night, is at Exchange Court, +419<i>a</i> Strand, where men can always be hired. But they +are also to be seen, and are easily recognisable by their neat +dark green uniform and badge, in most large thoroughfares. +Their tariff is,—twopence for half-a-mile or under; and +threepence for any distance over half-a-mile to a mile. +Back fare, or charge for return, (unless bearing a return +message,) is not allowed. A charge of one penny per mile +extra, if the parcel carried weighs more than 14 lbs. If +engaged by time, sixpence per hour, twopence a quarter of an +hour, half-a-crown for a day of eight hours. By special +arrangement, they may be hired at from 15s. to 20s. per week.</p> +<h3><a name="page184"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 184</span>THE +GREAT INTERCEPTS MAIN DRAINAGE SYSTEM OF LONDON.</h3> +<p>North of the Thames are the <i>High Level</i>, the <i>Middle +Level</i>, the <i>Low Level</i>, and the <i>Western District +Sewers</i>, together with an <i>Outfall</i> at Barking +Creek. The High Level drains Hampstead, Highgate, Kentish +Town, Highbury, Stoke Newington, Hackney, and passes under +Victoria Park to Old Ford; its length is about 9 miles. The +Middle Level runs by way of Kensal Green, Kensington Park, +Notting Hill, Bayswater, Oxford Street, and so under a number of +minor streets, to Old Ford, being about 12 miles long. The +Low Level commences near Pimlico, and passes along under the +Thames embankment to Blackfriars, whence it is to go through the +City and Whitechapel to West Ham. The Western District +Sewers drain Acton, Hammersmith, Fulham, Chelsea, &c., on a +plan different from that of the main drainage in other +localities. The Outfall, an immense work 6 miles long, +continues the Upper and Middle Level Sewers from Old Ford to West +Ham, and all the three sewers thence to Barking Creek, where +stupendous arrangements are made for conducting the flow of the +sewage into the Thames. The drainage south of the Thames +comprises a <i>High Level Sewer</i>, a <i>Low Level Sewer</i>, +and an <i>Outflow</i>. The High Level drains Clapham, +Brixton, Streatham, Dulwich, Camberwell, &c.; the Low Level +keeps nearer the Thames, by Wandsworth, Battersea, Vauxhall, +Lambeth, Southwark, Bermondsey, and Rotherhithe, to Deptford; +while the Outfall continues both these lines of sewers through +Deptford, Greenwich, Woolwich, and across Plumstead Marshes to +Crossness Point, where the works are situated for conveying the +sewage into the river.</p> +<h2><a name="page185"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +185</span>INDEX</h2> +<p>Abney Park Cemetery, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page61">61</a></span></p> +<p>Achilles’s Statue, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page127">127</a></span></p> +<p>Adelphi Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page121">121</a></span></p> +<p>Admiralty, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page46">46</a></span></p> +<p>Admission to Places of Interest, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page178">178</a></span></p> +<p>Albert Suspension Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page102">102</a></span></p> +<p>Aldermen, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page85">85</a></span></p> +<p>Aldgate, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +<p>Aldgate High Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +<p>Alexandra Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page167">167</a></span></p> +<p>Alhambra, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page124">124</a></span></p> +<p>Amusements, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page125">125</a></span></p> +<p>Apothecaries’ Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page97">97</a></span></p> +<p>Apsley House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page38">38</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page39">39</a></span></p> +<p>Armouries, Tower, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page78">78</a></span></p> +<p>Arsenal, Woolwich, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page160">160</a></span></p> +<p>Art Exhibitions, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page70">70</a></span></p> +<p>Artillery Ground, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page32">32</a></span></p> +<p>Arundel Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +<p>Astley’s Amphith., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page123">123</a></span></p> +<p>Austin Friars, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Bank of England, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page15">15</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page93">93</a></span></p> +<p>Bank of London, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +<p>Banks, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page94">94</a></span></p> +<p>Baptist College, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page72">72</a></span></p> +<p>Barclay & Perkins’s, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page113">113</a></span></p> +<p>Barnes, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page145">145</a></span></p> +<p>Barnet, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page162">162</a></span></p> +<p>Baths, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page180">180</a></span></p> +<p>Battersea, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page104">104</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page144">144</a></span></p> +<p>— Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page104">104</a></span></p> +<p>— Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page133">133</a></span></p> +<p>Bazaars, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page113">113</a></span></p> +<p>Belgrave Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +<p>Berkeley Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +<p>Bethnal Green, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +<p>Bethnal Green Cemetery, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page61">61</a></span></p> +<p>Bethnal G. Museum, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page66">66</a></span></p> +<p>Billingsgate, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page111">111</a></span></p> +<p>Birdcage Walk, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page126">126</a></span></p> +<p>Bishopsgate Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +<p>Blackfriars’ Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page22">22</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page103">103</a></span></p> +<p>Blackheath, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page163">163</a></span></p> +<p>Blackwall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page159">159</a></span></p> +<p>— Railway, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page141">141</a></span></p> +<p>Blue Coat School, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page73">73</a></span></p> +<p>Board of Trade Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page47">47</a></span></p> +<p>Boat-races, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page145">145</a></span></p> +<p>Bolt Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page25">25</a></span></p> +<p>Bond Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +<p>Book-trade, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page115">115</a></span></p> +<p>Botanical Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page134">134</a></span></p> +<p>Bow Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page56">56</a></span></p> +<p>Bow Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +<p>Bread Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +<p>Breweries, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page113">113</a></span></p> +<p>Bridges, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page102">102</a></span></p> +<p>Bridgewater Gallery, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page40">40</a></span></p> +<p>— House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page40">40</a></span></p> +<p>Brighton Railway, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page140">140</a></span></p> +<p>Britannia Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +<p>British Institution, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page70">70</a></span></p> +<p>— Museum, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page62">62</a></span></p> +<p>Broad Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +<p>Bromley, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page163">163</a></span></p> +<p>Brooke Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page24">24</a></span></p> +<p>Bryanstone Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +<p>Buccleuch House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page40">40</a></span></p> +<p>Buckingham Palace, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page34">34</a></span></p> +<p>Bunhill Fields, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page32">32</a></span></p> +<p>Burlington House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page69">69</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Cabs and Cab Fares, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page137">137</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page182">182</a></span></p> +<p>Cannon Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page14">14</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page33">33</a></span></p> +<p>Canterbury Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page124">124</a></span></p> +<p>Cattle Market, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page110">110</a></span></p> +<p>Cavendish Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +<p>Cecil Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +<p>Cemeteries, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page57">57</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page61">61</a></span></p> +<p>Central Criminal Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page21">21</a></span></p> +<p>Chancery Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page25">25</a></span></p> +<p>Chapels, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page55">55</a></span></p> +<p>Charing Cross, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span></p> +<p>— Railway Station and Hotel, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +<p>— Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +<p>Charitable Institutions, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page76">76</a></span></p> +<p>Charles I.’s Statue, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span></p> +<p>Charter House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span></p> +<p>Charter House School, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page73">73</a></span></p> +<p>Chatham and Dover Railway, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page141">141</a></span></p> +<p>Cheapside, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page15">15</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +<p>Chelsea, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page144">144</a></span></p> +<p>— Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page104">104</a></span></p> +<p>— Hospital, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page143">143</a></span></p> +<p>Chess Rooms, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page176">176</a></span></p> +<p>Chesterfield House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page40">40</a></span></p> +<p>Child’s Banking Ho., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page26">26</a></span></p> +<p>Chiswick, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page145">145</a></span></p> +<p>Chop-houses, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page120">120</a></span></p> +<p>Christ’s Hospital, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page73">73</a></span></p> +<p>Churches, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page55">55</a></span></p> +<p>City Bank, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +<p>—Companies, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page97">97</a></span></p> +<p>—of Lond. School, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page75">75</a></span></p> +<p>—Prison, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page93">93</a></span></p> +<p>— Road, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page32">32</a></span></p> +<p>—, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page12">12</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page15">15</a></span></p> +<p>Clapham, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page144">144</a></span></p> +<p>Clement’s Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +<p>Clock, Westminster, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page43">43</a></span></p> +<p>Clothworkers’ Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page97">97</a></span></p> +<p>Clubs and Club Houses, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page116">116</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page173">173</a></span></p> +<p>Coal Exchange, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page110">110</a></span></p> +<p>Cockspur Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span></p> +<p>Coffee-houses, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page120">120</a></span></p> +<p>— shops, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page120">120</a></span></p> +<p>Colleges, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page70">70</a></span></p> +<p>Colonial Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page47">47</a></span></p> +<p>Colosseum, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page132">132</a></span></p> +<p>Commercial Docks, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page100">100</a></span></p> +<p>Commissionaires, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page183">183</a></span></p> +<p>Common Council, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page85">85</a></span></p> +<p>Companies’ Halls, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page96">96</a></span></p> +<p>Concert Rooms, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page123">123</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page178">178</a></span></p> +<p>Constitution Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page127">127</a></span></p> +<p>Corn Exchange, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page113">113</a></span></p> +<p>Cornhill, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page15">15</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +<p>Corporation, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page84">84</a></span></p> +<p>Cotton’s Wharf, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +<p><a name="page186"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +186</span>Courts of Law, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page44">44</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page92">92</a></span></p> +<p>Court Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +<p>Covent G. Market, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page111">111</a></span></p> +<p>— Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span></p> +<p>Crane Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page25">25</a></span></p> +<p>Craven Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +<p>Crays, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page163">163</a></span></p> +<p>Cremorne Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page125">125</a></span></p> +<p>Crossness Point, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +<p>Crystal Palace, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page163">163</a></span></p> +<p>— Railway, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page139">139</a></span></p> +<p>Custom House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page81">81</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Deptford, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page154">154</a></span></p> +<p>Devonshire House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page39">39</a></span></p> +<p>Dining-rooms, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page120">120</a></span></p> +<p>Dissenting Chapels, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page59">59</a></span></p> +<p>Docks, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page99">99</a></span></p> +<p>Doctors’ Commons, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span></p> +<p>Doomsday Book, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page92">92</a></span></p> +<p>Downing Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page47">47</a></span></p> +<p>Down River Excur., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page154">154</a></span></p> +<p>Drainage System, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page86">86</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page184">184</a></span></p> +<p>Drapers’ Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page96">96</a></span></p> +<p>Drury Lane Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page121">121</a></span></p> +<p>Duke of York’s Column, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span></p> +<p>Duke of York’s School, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page144">144</a></span></p> +<p>Dulwich College, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page163">163</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>East India Docks, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page99">99</a></span></p> +<p>— Museum, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page67">67</a></span></p> +<p>Edmonton, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page163">163</a></span></p> +<p>Egyptian Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page124">124</a></span></p> +<p>Electric Time-ball, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page158">158</a></span></p> +<p>Eltham, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page163">163</a></span></p> +<p>Enfield, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page163">163</a></span></p> +<p>English Presbyterian Theological Coll., <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page72">72</a></span></p> +<p>Entertainments, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page124">124</a></span></p> +<p>Environs of London, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page169">169</a></span></p> +<p>Epping Forest, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page163">163</a></span></p> +<p>Erith, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +<p>Essex Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +<p>Eton College, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page154">154</a></span></p> +<p>Euston Road, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page32">32</a></span></p> +<p>— Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page32">32</a></span></p> +<p>Evans’s Hotel and Supper Rooms, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page124">124</a></span></p> +<p>Exchequer Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page47">47</a></span></p> +<p>Excursions, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page143">143</a></span></p> +<p>Exeter Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span></p> +<p>Exhibition, International, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page129">129</a></span></p> +<p>Exhibitions, &c., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page179">179</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Farringdon St., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page22">22</a></span></p> +<p>Fenchurch Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page141">141</a></span></p> +<p>— Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +<p>Finchley, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page162">162</a></span></p> +<p>— Cemetery, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page61">61</a></span></p> +<p>Finsbury Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page133">133</a></span></p> +<p>— Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page32">32</a></span></p> +<p>Fire Brigade, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page88">88</a></span></p> +<p>Fires, Great, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page10">10</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page80">80</a></span></p> +<p>Fishmongers’ Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page96">96</a></span></p> +<p>Fish Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +<p>Fish-supply, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page111">111</a></span></p> +<p>Fleet Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page22">22</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page24">24</a></span></p> +<p>— Valley, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page21">21</a></span></p> +<p>Floral Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page112">112</a></span></p> +<p>Food-supply, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page109">109</a></span></p> +<p>Foreign Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page47">47</a></span></p> +<p>Fountains, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page88">88</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page133">133</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page166">166</a></span></p> +<p>Free Exhibitions, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page179">179</a></span></p> +<p>Fulham, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page145">145</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Gaiety Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +<p>Gall. of Illustration, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page12">12</a></span></p> +<p>George III.’s Statue, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span></p> +<p>George IV.’s Statue, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page29">29</a></span></p> +<p>Globe Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +<p>Gog and Magog, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page89">89</a></span></p> +<p>Goldsmiths’ Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page96">96</a></span></p> +<p>Gough Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page25">25</a></span></p> +<p>Government Offices, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page45">45</a></span></p> +<p>Gracechurch Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +<p>Grand Surrey Docks, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page100">100</a></span></p> +<p>Gravesend, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +<p>Grays, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +<p>Gray’s Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page91">91</a></span></p> +<p>Great E. Railway, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page141">141</a></span></p> +<p>— Nor. Railway, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page138">138</a></span></p> +<p>— W. Railway, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page138">138</a></span></p> +<p>Grecian Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +<p>Greenhithe, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +<p>Green Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page38">38</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page127">127</a></span></p> +<p>Greenwich, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page155">155</a></span></p> +<p>— Hospital, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page155">155</a></span></p> +<p>— Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page158">158</a></span></p> +<p>Gresham House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page95">95</a></span></p> +<p>— Lectures, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page72">72</a></span></p> +<p>— Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +<p>Grocers’ Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page96">96</a></span></p> +<p>Grosvenor Gallery, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page39">39</a></span></p> +<p>— Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page118">118</a></span></p> +<p>— House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page39">39</a></span></p> +<p>— Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +<p>Guards’ Memorial, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span></p> +<p>Guildhall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page88">88</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Haberdashers’ Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page96">96</a></span></p> +<p>Hackney College, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page72">72</a></span></p> +<p>Hammersmith, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page145">145</a></span></p> +<p>Hampstead, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page162">162</a></span></p> +<p>Hampton Court Palace, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page149">149</a></span></p> +<p>Hanover Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +<p>— Rooms, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page123">123</a></span></p> +<p>Harrow, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page162">162</a></span></p> +<p>Havelock’s Statue, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span></p> +<p>Haymarket Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page121">121</a></span></p> +<p>Henry VII.’s Chapel, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page51">51</a></span></p> +<p>H. M. Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page121">121</a></span></p> +<p>Highest Ground in London, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span></p> +<p>Highgate, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page162">162</a></span></p> +<p>— Cemetery, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page61">61</a></span></p> +<p>Hints to Strangers, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page183">183</a></span></p> +<p>Holborn, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page22">22</a></span></p> +<p>— Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page23">23</a></span></p> +<p>— Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +<p>— Valley Viaduct, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page22">22</a></span></p> +<p>Holford House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page40">40</a></span></p> +<p>Holland House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page40">40</a></span></p> +<p>Home Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page47">47</a></span></p> +<p>Hornsey, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page162">162</a></span></p> +<p>Horse Guards, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page46">46</a></span></p> +<p>Horticultural Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page135">135</a></span></p> +<p>Hospitals, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page76">76</a></span></p> +<p>Hotel Charges, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#pageviii">viii</a></span></p> +<p>Hotels, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page117">117</a></span></p> +<p>Houndsditch, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +<p>House of Correction, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page93">93</a></span></p> +<p><a name="page187"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +187</span>Houses and Streets, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page11">11</a></span></p> +<p>— of Parl<sup>t</sup>., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page49">49</a></span></p> +<p>Howard Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +<p>Hudson’s Bay House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +<p>Hungerford Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page104">104</a></span></p> +<p>Hyde Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page127">127</a></span></p> +<p>— Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>India House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page95">95</a></span></p> +<p>— Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page47">47</a></span></p> +<p>Inns, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page117">117</a></span></p> +<p>— of Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page26">26</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page91">91</a></span></p> +<p>Insurance Offices, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page94">94</a></span></p> +<p>International Exhibition, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page129">129</a></span></p> +<p>Ironmonger Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +<p>Ironmongers’ Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page96">96</a></span></p> +<p>Isle of Dogs, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page159">159</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Jewel House, Tower, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page80">80</a></span></p> +<p>Jewish Synagogues, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page59">59</a></span></p> +<p>Jews’ Quarter, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +<p>Johnson’s Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page25">25</a></span></p> +<p>Junior Athenæum Club, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page40">40</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Kennington Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page133">133</a></span></p> +<p>Kensal Green, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page61">61</a></span></p> +<p>Kensington Garden, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page131">131</a></span></p> +<p>— Palace, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page36">36</a></span></p> +<p>Kew Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page146">146</a></span></p> +<p>King’s College, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page45">45</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page72">72</a></span></p> +<p>— Cross Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page138">138</a></span></p> +<p>King Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +<p>King William St., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page13">13</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +<p>Koh-i-noor, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page80">80</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Lady’s Mile, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page129">129</a></span></p> +<p>Lambeth Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page104">104</a></span></p> +<p>— Palace, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page36">36</a></span></p> +<p>Landseer’s four Lions, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page29">29</a></span></p> +<p>Lansdowne House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page40">40</a></span></p> +<p>Leadenhall Market, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page111">111</a></span></p> +<p>— Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +<p>Letter Deliveries, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page175">175</a></span></p> +<p>Lewisham, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page163">163</a></span></p> +<p>Lighting, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page87">87</a></span></p> +<p>Limehouse, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page159">159</a></span></p> +<p>Lincoln’s Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page91">91</a></span></p> +<p>Lloyd’s, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page90">90</a></span></p> +<p>Lombard Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page15">15</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +<p>London and N.-W. Railway, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page138">138</a></span></p> +<p>London Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page15">15</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page102">102</a></span></p> +<p>— Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page119">119</a></span></p> +<p>— Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page140">140</a></span></p> +<p>London, Chatham, and Dover Bridge, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page23">23</a></span></p> +<p>London Docks, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page100">100</a></span></p> +<p>— in Roman times, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page9">9</a></span></p> +<p>— Stone, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page168">168</a></span></p> +<p>— University, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page70">70</a></span></p> +<p>Long Walk, Windsor, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page154">154</a></span></p> +<p>Lord Mayor’s Show, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page85">85</a></span></p> +<p>Lothbury Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +<p>Lower Serle’s Place, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page25">25</a></span></p> +<p>Ludgate Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page21">21</a></span></p> +<p>— Railway Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page21">21</a></span></p> +<p>Ludgate Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page21">21</a></span></p> +<p>Lyceum Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Maclise’s Great Picture, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page44">44</a></span></p> +<p>Mall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page126">126</a></span></p> +<p>Malt Liquors, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page113">113</a></span></p> +<p>Manchester Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +<p>Mansion House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page15">15</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page88">88</a></span></p> +<p>Markets, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page110">110</a></span></p> +<p>Mark Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +<p>Marlborough House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page35">35</a></span></p> +<p>Marylebone Road, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page32">32</a></span></p> +<p>— Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page33">33</a></span></p> +<p>— Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +<p>May Fair, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +<p>Medicated Baths, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page181">181</a></span></p> +<p>Mercers’ Grammar School, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page75">75</a></span></p> +<p>Mercers’ Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page96">96</a></span></p> +<p>Merchant Taylors’ Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page96">96</a></span></p> +<p>Merchant Taylors’ School, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page75">75</a></span></p> +<p>Metropolitan Railway, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page33">33</a></span></p> +<p>Mile-End Cemetery, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page61">61</a></span></p> +<p>Military Prison, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page93">93</a></span></p> +<p>Milk Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +<p>Millbank Prison, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page93">93</a></span></p> +<p>Mincing Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +<p>Mint, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page81">81</a></span></p> +<p>Mitcham, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page163">163</a></span></p> +<p>Mitre Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page24">24</a></span></p> +<p>Model Prison, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page93">93</a></span></p> +<p>Money-Order Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page175">175</a></span></p> +<p>Monument, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page89">89</a></span></p> +<p>Moorgate Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page16">16</a></span></p> +<p>Mortlake, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page145">145</a></span></p> +<p>Mudie’s Library, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page115">115</a></span></p> +<p>Museum, British, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page62">62</a></span></p> +<p>Museum of College of Surgeons, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page67">67</a></span></p> +<p>Museum, Geological, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page66">66</a></span></p> +<p>Music Halls, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page123">123</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page178">178</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Napier’s Statue, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page29">29</a></span></p> +<p>National Gallery, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page68">68</a></span></p> +<p>— Portrait Gallery, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page69">69</a></span></p> +<p>Nelson’s Column, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page29">29</a></span></p> +<p>— Tomb, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page49">49</a></span></p> +<p>New College, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page72">72</a></span></p> +<p>Newgate, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page92">92</a></span></p> +<p>— Market, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page111">111</a></span></p> +<p>— Prison, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page21">21</a></span></p> +<p>— Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page22">22</a></span></p> +<p>News Rooms, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page176">176</a></span></p> +<p>Norfolk Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +<p>Northfleet, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +<p>N. and S.W. Junction, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page139">139</a></span></p> +<p>North London Railway, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page141">141</a></span></p> +<p>Northumberland House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page38">38</a></span></p> +<p>Northumberland Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +<p>North Woolwich, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page159">159</a></span></p> +<p>Norwood, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page163">163</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Observatory, Greenwich, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page158">158</a></span></p> +<p>Old Bailey, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page21">21</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page92">92</a></span></p> +<p>Old ’Change, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +<p>Old Roman Wall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page9">9</a></span></p> +<p><a name="page188"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +188</span>Omnibus Routes, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page136">136</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page171">171</a></span></p> +<p>Open House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page121">121</a></span></p> +<p>Oratorios, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page123">123</a></span></p> +<p>Oxford Music Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page124">124</a></span></p> +<p>— Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Paddington, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page32">32</a></span></p> +<p>— Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page138">138</a></span></p> +<p>Palace of Justice, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +<p>Pall Mall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page29">29</a></span></p> +<p>Pantheon, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page114">114</a></span></p> +<p>Panyer Alley, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span></p> +<p>Parcels’ Delivery Co., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page174">174</a></span></p> +<p>Park Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +<p>Parks, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page125">125</a></span></p> +<p>Parson’s Green, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page145">145</a></span></p> +<p>Paternoster Row, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span></p> +<p>Pavilion Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page125">125</a></span></p> +<p>Peel’s Statue, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span></p> +<p>Penitentiary, Millbank, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page93">93</a></span></p> +<p>Pentonville Road, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page32">32</a></span></p> +<p>Petticoat Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +<p>Philharmonic Music Hall and Theatre, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page124">124</a></span></p> +<p>Piccadilly, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span></p> +<p>Pimlico, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page33">33</a></span></p> +<p>— Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page140">140</a></span></p> +<p>Plague, Great, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page10">10</a></span></p> +<p>Plumstead Marshes, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +<p>Pneumatic Despatch, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page101">101</a></span></p> +<p>Police, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page85">85</a></span></p> +<p>Polytechnic Inst., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page125">125</a></span></p> +<p>Pool, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page98">98</a></span></p> +<p>Pope’s Villa, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page148">148</a></span></p> +<p>Poplar, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page159">159</a></span></p> +<p>Population, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page11">11</a></span></p> +<p>Portland Place, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span></p> +<p>Portman Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +<p>Port of London, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page98">98</a></span></p> +<p>Postal System, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page175">175</a></span></p> +<p>Post-office, General, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page83">83</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page175">175</a></span></p> +<p>P.O. Savings Banks, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page175">175</a></span></p> +<p>Poultry, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page16">16</a></span></p> +<p>Primrose Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page132">132</a></span></p> +<p>Prince of Wales’ Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +<p>Prince’s Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page15">15</a></span></p> +<p>Princess’s Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +<p>Printing House Sq., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page21">21</a></span></p> +<p>Prisons, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page92">92</a></span></p> +<p>Privy Council Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page47">47</a></span></p> +<p>Purfleet, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +<p>Putney, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page145">145</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Quadrant, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span></p> +<p>Queen’s Bench Prison, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page93">93</a></span></p> +<p>Queen’s Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +<p>Queen Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +<p>Queen Victoria Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page14">14</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page107">107</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Railway Bridges, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page104">104</a></span></p> +<p>— Distances, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page169">169</a></span></p> +<p>— Hotels, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page118">118</a></span></p> +<p>Railways, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page138">138</a></span></p> +<p>Rainham, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +<p>Reading Rooms, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page63">63</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page176">176</a></span></p> +<p>Record Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page92">92</a></span></p> +<p>Regent’s Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page132">132</a></span></p> +<p>Regent Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page29">29</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span></p> +<p>Registrar-General’s Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page45">45</a></span></p> +<p>Richard Cœur de Lion’s Statue, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page30">30</a></span></p> +<p>Richmond, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page147">147</a></span></p> +<p>— Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page147">147</a></span></p> +<p>— Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page148">148</a></span></p> +<p>— Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page149">149</a></span></p> +<p>Roman Catholic Chapels, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page59">59</a></span></p> +<p>Rotherhithe, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page101">101</a></span></p> +<p>Rothschild’s House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page40">40</a></span></p> +<p>Rotten Row, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page129">129</a></span></p> +<p>Routes through London, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page13">13</a></span></p> +<p>Royal Academy, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page69">69</a></span></p> +<p>— Albert Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page131">131</a></span></p> +<p>— Exchange, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page15">15</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page90">90</a></span></p> +<p>— Humane Society, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page129">129</a></span></p> +<p>Royal Institution, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page67">67</a></span></p> +<p>— Military Asylum, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page144">144</a></span></p> +<p>Royal Music Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page124">124</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Sacred Harmonic Concerts, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page123">123</a></span></p> +<p>Sadler’s Wells, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +<p>— Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page25">25</a></span></p> +<p>Salisbury Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +<p>Savoy Chapel, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page57">57</a></span></p> +<p>Schools, Public, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page73">73</a></span></p> +<p>—, Various, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page75">75</a></span></p> +<p>Scientific Societies, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page68">68</a></span></p> +<p>Sergeant’s Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page92">92</a></span></p> +<p>Serpentine, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page129">129</a></span></p> +<p>Sheepshanks’ Pictures, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page65">65</a></span></p> +<p>Shilling Exhibitions, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page179">179</a></span></p> +<p>Shoe Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page23">23</a></span></p> +<p>Shops, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page113">113</a></span></p> +<p>Skinners’ Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page96">96</a></span></p> +<p>Shoreditch Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page141">141</a></span></p> +<p>Smithfield, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page110">110</a></span></p> +<p>Snow Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page33">33</a></span></p> +<p>Soane Museum, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page70">70</a></span></p> +<p>Society of Arts, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page67">67</a></span></p> +<p>— of British Artists, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page70">70</a></span></p> +<p>Soho Bazaar, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page114">114</a></span></p> +<p>— Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +<p>Somerset House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page44">44</a></span></p> +<p>South-Eastern Railway, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page140">140</a></span></p> +<p>South-Eastern Railway Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page103">103</a></span></p> +<p>South Kensington Museum, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page64">64</a></span></p> +<p>South Sea House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page95">95</a></span></p> +<p>Southwark Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page103">103</a></span></p> +<p>— Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page133">133</a></span></p> +<p>South-Western Railway, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page139">139</a></span></p> +<p>Spitalfields, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +<p>Spring Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page29">29</a></span></p> +<p>Spurgeon’s Tabernacle, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page60">60</a></span></p> +<p>St. Bride’s Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page26">26</a></span></p> +<p>St. Clement Dane’s Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +<p>St. Dunstan’s Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page26">26</a></span></p> +<p>St. George’s Cathedral, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page60">60</a></span></p> +<p>St. Helena Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page125">125</a></span></p> +<p>St. James’s Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page58">58</a></span></p> +<p>— Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page124">124</a></span></p> +<p>—Palace, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page33">33</a></span></p> +<p><a name="page189"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 189</span>St. +James’s Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page29">29</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page33">33</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page38">38</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page125">125</a></span></p> +<p>— Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +<p>— Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +<p>St. John’s Gate, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span></p> +<p>— Wood, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +<p>St. Katherine’s Docks, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page100">100</a></span></p> +<p>— Hos., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page132">132</a></span></p> +<p>St. Martin’s Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span></p> +<p>St. Martin’s-le-Grand, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span></p> +<p>St. Mary’s Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +<p>St. Pancras’ Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page33">33</a></span></p> +<p>— Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page32">32</a></span></p> +<p>St. Paul’s Cathedral, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page47">47</a></span></p> +<p>— Churchyard, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page112">112</a></span></p> +<p>— School, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page73">73</a></span></p> +<p>Stafford House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page38">38</a></span></p> +<p>Star and Garter, Putney, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page145">145</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page149">149</a></span></p> +<p>State Paper Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page92">92</a></span></p> +<p>Stationers’ Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page97">97</a></span></p> +<p>Steam-boat Piers, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page105">105</a></span></p> +<p>Steamers, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page142">142</a></span></p> +<p>Stepney, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +<p>Stock Exchange, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +<p>Strand, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page29">29</a></span></p> +<p>— Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +<p>Strawberry Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page148">148</a></span></p> +<p>Streets, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page113">113</a></span></p> +<p>Suburban Villages, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page169">169</a></span></p> +<p>Sun Fire Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +<p>Surrey Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page125">125</a></span></p> +<p>— Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +<p>— Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page123">123</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Taverns, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page119">119</a></span></p> +<p>Tea Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page125">125</a></span></p> +<p>Telegraphs, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page175">175</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page176">176</a></span></p> +<p>Temperance Hotels, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page121">121</a></span></p> +<p>Temple, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page26">26</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page90">90</a></span></p> +<p>— Bar, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page26">26</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +<p>— Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page91">91</a></span></p> +<p>— Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page91">91</a></span></p> +<p>Thames, and Shipping, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page97">97</a></span></p> +<p>Thames Embankment, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page14">14</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page106">106</a></span></p> +<p>Thames Subway, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +<p>— Tunnel, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page101">101</a></span></p> +<p>Theatres, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page121">121</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page176">176</a></span></p> +<p>Threadneedle St., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page93">93</a></span></p> +<p>Tilbury, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +<p>— and Southend Railway, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page141">141</a></span></p> +<p><i>Times’</i> Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page21">21</a></span></p> +<p>Tobacco Dock, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page100">100</a></span></p> +<p>Tooley Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +<p>Tower of London, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page77">77</a></span></p> +<p>Tower Subway, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page101">101</a></span></p> +<p>Trades, Number of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page114">114</a></span></p> +<p>Trafalgar Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page29">29</a></span></p> +<p>Training Colleges, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page73">73</a></span></p> +<p>Tramways, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page173">173</a></span></p> +<p>Treasury, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page46">46</a></span></p> +<p>Trinity House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page95">95</a></span></p> +<p>Turkish Baths, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page180">180</a></span></p> +<p>Turner’s Pictures, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page68">68</a></span></p> +<p>Tussaud’s Exhibition, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page125">125</a></span></p> +<p>Twickenham, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page148">148</a></span></p> +<p>Tyburnia, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>United Service Museum, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page67">67</a></span></p> +<p>University College, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page71">71</a></span></p> +<p>— Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page72">72</a></span></p> +<p>Upper Regent Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span></p> +<p>Up River Excursions, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page143">143</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Vaudeville Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +<p>Vauxhall Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page104">104</a></span></p> +<p>— Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page125">125</a></span></p> +<p>Vegetable Markets, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page111">111</a></span></p> +<p>Vernon Pictures, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page68">68</a></span></p> +<p>Victoria Docks, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page99">99</a></span></p> +<p>— Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page132">132</a></span></p> +<p>— Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page140">140</a></span></p> +<p>— Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page22">22</a></span></p> +<p>— Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page123">123</a></span></p> +<p>— Tower, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page43">43</a></span></p> +<p>Villiers’ Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +<p>Vintners’ Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page97">97</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Walbrook, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page15">15</a></span></p> +<p>Walham Green, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page145">145</a></span></p> +<p>Waltham, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page163">163</a></span></p> +<p>— Abbey, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page163">163</a></span></p> +<p>Wandsworth, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page144">144</a></span></p> +<p>War Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page47">47</a></span></p> +<p>Water-colour Exhib., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page70">70</a></span></p> +<p>— Supply, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page109">109</a></span></p> +<p>Waterloo Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page45">45</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page104">104</a></span></p> +<p>— Place, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span></p> +<p>— Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page139">139</a></span></p> +<p>Wellington’s Statue, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page39">39</a></span></p> +<p>Wesleyan College, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page72">72</a></span></p> +<p>Westbourne Terrace, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +<p>West-End, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +<p>— India Docks, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page99">99</a></span></p> +<p>— London Rail, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page139">139</a></span></p> +<p>Westminster Abbey, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page51">51</a></span></p> +<p>— Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page41">41</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page104">104</a></span></p> +<p>— Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page41">41</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page44">44</a></span></p> +<p>— Palace, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page29">29</a></span></p> +<p>— Palace Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page119">119</a></span></p> +<p>— School, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page73">73</a></span></p> +<p>Weston’s Music Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page124">124</a></span></p> +<p>Wharfs, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page98">98</a></span></p> +<p>Whitebait Taverns, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page155">155</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page159">159</a></span></p> +<p>Whitechapel, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +<p>— Market, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page111">111</a></span></p> +<p>Whitecross Street Prison, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page92">92</a></span></p> +<p>Whitehall, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page29">29</a></span></p> +<p>— Banqueting House, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span></p> +<p>— Chapel, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page57">57</a></span></p> +<p>— Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span></p> +<p>Wimbledon, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page144">144</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page163">163</a></span></p> +<p>Winchester Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +<p>Windsor, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page151">151</a></span></p> +<p>— Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page153">153</a></span></p> +<p>Wine Vaults, Docks, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page100">100</a></span></p> +<p>Woking Necropolis, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page61">61</a></span></p> +<p>Wood Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +<p>Woolwich, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page159">159</a></span></p> +<p>Wren’s Churches, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page58">58</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Zoological Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page133">133</a></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page190"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 190</span><span class="GutSmall">WILLIAM +COLLINS & CO., PRINTERS,</span><br /> +<span class="GutSmall">HERRIOT HILL WORKS, GLASGOW.</span></p> +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> +<h2>FOOTNOTES</h2> +<p><a name="footnote16"></a><a href="#citation16" +class="footnote">[16]</a> Most of the illustrations are +<i>bird’s-eye views</i>, taken from house-tops and +church-towers, in order to shew as many public buildings as +possible. The reader will attribute to this cause any +apparent distortion of perspective, as compared with views taken +from level ground.</p> +<p><a name="footnote18"></a><a href="#citation18" +class="footnote">[18]</a> This tremendous conflagration was +one of the largest ever known in London since 1666, involving the +loss of property valued at two millions sterling. The ruins +were still hot, steaming and smoking, seven weeks after the fire +commenced. Mr. Braidwood, chief of the London Fire Brigade, +perished in the ruins; a public funeral testified to the esteem +in which he was held.</p> +<p><a name="footnote20"></a><a href="#citation20" +class="footnote">[20]</a> This is not what is called <span +class="smcap">London Stone</span>. That famous stone will +be found on the side of St. Swithin’s Church, New Cannon +Street. (See p. 168.)</p> +<p><a name="footnote40"></a><a href="#citation40" +class="footnote">[40]</a> Tickets of admission can +generally be obtained, during the season, of Messrs Smith, 137 +New Bond Street. Days of admission, from 10 till 5, +Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays.</p> +<p><a name="footnote47a"></a><a href="#citation47a" +class="footnote">[47a]</a> The total cost, including 200 +tons of iron-railing, was £1,511,202.</p> +<p><a name="footnote47b"></a><a href="#citation47b" +class="footnote">[47b]</a> It is strange that, in relation +to the best known building in London, great discordance reigns +concerning the total <i>height</i>. Wren’s son, in +the <i>Parentalia</i>, simply states that the lantern is 330 feet +from the ground; Maitland gives the total height at 340 feet; +many authorities name 360 feet; while several Hand-books and +Guides, following the pamphlet sold in the cathedral, raise it to +404 feet. This last statement agrees with the Cockney +tradition, that St. Paul’s is twice as high as the +Monument. A careful examination of the vertical section, +however, shews that the height is about 356 feet above the marble +pavement of the cathedral, 375 above the level of the crypt, and +370 above the pavement of the churchyard. It will thus be +sufficiently near the truth to say that St. Paul’s is 365 +feet high—a familiar number, easy to remember.</p> +<p><a name="footnote178"></a><a href="#citation178" +class="footnote">[178]</a> Is also a theatre.</p> +<p><a name="footnote179"></a><a href="#citation179" +class="footnote">[179]</a> Is also a theatre.</p> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COLLINS' ILLUSTRATED GUIDE TO LONDON</p> +<pre> +AND NEIGHBOURHOOD*** + + +***** This file should be named 39379-h.htm or 39379-h.zip****** + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/9/3/7/39379 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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