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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Collins' Illustrated Guide to London and
+Neighbourhood, by Anonymous
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Collins' Illustrated Guide to London and Neighbourhood
+
+
+Author: Anonymous
+
+
+
+Release Date: April 5, 2012  [eBook #39379]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COLLINS' ILLUSTRATED GUIDE TO
+LONDON AND NEIGHBOURHOOD***
+
+
+Transcribed from the 1873 William Collins, Sons and Company edition by
+David Price, email ccx074@pglaf.org
+
+                         [Picture: Cover of book]
+
+   [Picture: Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey, Westminster Hall,
+  Crimean and Canning Monuments.  Penitentiary, Vauxhall Bridge, Lambeth
+Suspension Bridge, Lambeth Place, and Bethlehem Hospital in the distance]
+
+
+
+
+
+                                 COLLINS’
+                               ILLUSTRATED
+                             GUIDE TO LONDON
+                                   AND
+                              NEIGHBOURHOOD:
+
+
+                                 BEING A
+
+        CONCISE DESCRIPTION OF THE CHIEF PLACES OF INTEREST IN THE
+            METROPOLIS, AND THE BEST MODES OF OBTAINING ACCESS
+                  TO THEM: WITH INFORMATION RELATING TO
+
+                    RAILWAYS, OMNIBUSES, STEAMERS, &c.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+          With fifty-eight Illustrations by Sargent and others,
+                                   AND
+                        A CLUE-MAP BY BARTHOLOMEW.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+                                 LONDON:
+                   WILLIAM COLLINS, SONS, AND COMPANY,
+                   17 WARWICK SQUARE, PATERNOSTER ROW.
+                                  1873.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+IN this work an attempt is made to furnish Strangers with a handy and
+useful Guide to the chief objects of interest in the Metropolis and its
+Environs: comprising also much that will be interesting to permanent
+Residents.  After a few pages of General Description, the various
+Buildings and other places of attraction are treated in convenient groups
+or sections, according to their nature.  Short Excursions from the
+Metropolis are then noticed.  Tables, lists, and serviceable information
+concerning railways, tramways, omnibuses, cabs, telegraphs, postal rules,
+and other special matters, follow these sections.  An ALPHABETICAL INDEX
+at the end furnishes the means of easy reference.
+
+The information is brought down to the latest date, either in the Text or
+in the Appendix at the end.  And the Clue-map has, in like manner, been
+filled in with the recently opened lines of Railway, &c., as well as with
+indications of the Railways sanctioned, but not yet completed.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+                                                                  PAGE
+HOTEL CHARGES                                                     viii
+GENERAL DESCRIPTION                                                  9
+A FIRST GLANCE AT THE CITY                                          15
+A FIRST GLANCE AT THE WEST-END                                      27
+PALACES AND MANSIONS, ROYAL AND NOBLE                               33
+HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT; WESTMINSTER HALL; GOVERNMENT OFFICES          40
+ST. PAUL’S; WESTMINSTER ABBEY; CHURCHES; CHAPELS;                   47
+CEMETERIES
+BRITISH AND SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUMS; SCIENTIFIC                    62
+ESTABLISHMENTS
+NATIONAL GALLERY; ROYAL ACADEMY; ART EXHIBITIONS                    68
+COLLEGES; SCHOOLS; HOSPITALS; CHARITIES                             70
+THE TOWER; THE MINT; THE CUSTOM HOUSE; THE GENERAL                  77
+POST-OFFICE
+THE CORPORATION; MANSION HOUSE; GUILDHALL; MONUMENT; ROYAL          84
+EXCHANGE
+THE TEMPLE; INNS OF COURT; COURTS OF JUSTICE; PRISONS               90
+BANKS; INSURANCE OFFICES; STOCK EXCHANGE; CITY COMPANIES            93
+THE RIVER; DOCKS; THAMES TUNNEL; BRIDGES; PIERS                     97
+FOOD SUPPLY; MARKETS; BAZAARS; SHOPS                               109
+CLUBS; HOTELS; INNS; CHOP-HOUSES; TAVERNS; COFFEE-HOUSES;          116
+COFFEE-SHOPS
+THEATRES, CONCERTS, AND OTHER PLACES OF AMUSEMENT                  121
+PARKS AND PUBLIC GROUNDS; ZOOLOGICAL, BOTANICAL, AND               125
+HORTICULTURAL GARDENS
+ALBERT HALL AND INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION                           129
+OMNIBUSES; CABS; RAILWAYS; STEAMERS                                136
+SHORT EXCURSIONS—
+   UP THE RIVER                                                    143
+   DOWN THE RIVER                                                  154
+   CRYSTAL PALACE, &C.                                             162
+                              APPENDIX.
+TABLES, LISTS, AND USEFUL HINTS—
+  Suburban Towns and Villages, within Twelve Miles’                169
+  Railway-Distance
+  Chief Omnibus Routes                                             171
+  Tramways                                                         173
+  Clubs and Club-Houses                                            173
+  The London Parcels’ Delivery Company                             174
+  Money-Order Offices, and Post-Office Savings-Banks               175
+  London Letters, Postal and Telegraph System                      175
+  Reading and News-Rooms                                           176
+  Chess-Rooms                                                      177
+  Theatres                                                         177
+  Concert Rooms                                                    178
+  Music Halls                                                      178
+  Modes of Admission to Various Interesting Places                 179
+  Principal, Public, and Turkish Baths                             180
+  Medicated Baths                                                  181
+  Cabs                                                             182
+  Hints to Strangers                                               183
+  Commissionaires or Messengers                                    183
+THE GREAT INTERCEPTIVE MAIN DRAINAGE SYSTEM OF LONDON              184
+INDEX                                                              185
+
+
+
+
+HOTEL CHARGES.
+
+
+THERE is only one class of hotels in and near London of which the charges
+can be stated with any degree of precision.  The _old_ hotels, both at
+the West-End and in the City, keep no printed tariff; they are not
+accustomed even to be asked beforehand what are their charges.  Most of
+the visitors are more or less _recommended_ by guests who have already
+sojourned at these establishments, and who can give information as to
+what _they_ have paid.  Some of the hotels decline to receive guests
+except by previous written application, or by direct introduction, and
+would rather be without those who would regard the bill with economical
+scrutiny.  The _dining_ hotels, such as the _London_ and the _Freemasons’
+Tavern_, in London, the _Artichoke_ and various whitebait taverns at
+Blackwall, the _Trafalgar_ and _Crown and Sceptre_ taverns at Greenwich,
+and the _Castle_ and _Star and Garter_ taverns at Richmond, are costly
+taverns for dining, rather than hotels at which visitors sojourn; and the
+charges vary with every different degree of luxury in the viands served,
+and the mode of serving.  The hotels which can be more easily tested, in
+reference to their charges, are the _joint-stock_ undertakings.  These
+are of two kinds: one, the hotels connected with the great railway
+termini, such as the _Victoria_, the _Euston_, the _Great Northern_, the
+_Great Western_, the _Grosvenor_, the _Charing Cross_, the _Midland_ and
+_Cannon Street_; while the other group are unconnected with railways,
+such as the _Westminster Palace_, the _Langham_, the _Salisbury_, the
+_Inns of Court_, _Alexandra_, _&c._
+
+
+
+
+COLLINS’
+ILLUSTRATED GUIDE TO LONDON.
+
+
+Whether we consider London as the metropolis of a great and mighty
+empire, upon the dominions of whose sovereign the sun never sets, or as
+the home of more than three millions of people, and the richest city in
+the world to boot, it must ever be a place which strangers wish to visit.
+In these days of railways and steamers, the toil and cost of reaching it
+are, comparatively speaking, small; and, such being the case, the supply
+of visitors has very naturally been adjusted to the everyday increasing
+opportunities of gratifying so very sensible a desire.  To such persons,
+on their arrival at this vast City of the Islands, we here, if they will
+accept us as their guides, beg to offer, ere going into more minute
+details, a
+
+
+
+
+GENERAL DESCRIPTION.
+
+
+Without cumbering our narrative with the fables of dim legendary lore,
+with regard to the origin of London—or _Llyn-Din_, “the town on the
+lake,”—we may mention, that the Romans, after conquering its ancient
+British inhabitants, about A.D. 61, finally rebuilt and walled it in
+about A.D. 301; from which time it became, in such excellent hands, a
+place of not a little importance.  Roman remains, such as fine tesselated
+pavements, bronzes, weapons, pottery, and coins, are not seldom turned up
+by the spade of our sturdy excavators while digging below the foundations
+of houses; and a few scanty fragments of the old Roman Wall, which was
+rather more than three miles round, are still to be seen.  London, in the
+Anglo-Norman times, though confined originally by the said wall, grew up
+a dense mass of brick and wooden houses, ill arranged, unclean, close,
+and for the most part terribly insalubrious.  Pestilence was the natural
+consequence.  Up to the great plague of 1664–5, which destroyed 68,596,
+some say 100,000 persons—there were, dating from the pestilence of 1348,
+no fewer than some nine visitations of widely-spreading epidemics in Old
+London.  When, in 1666, the great fire, which burnt 13,200 houses, spread
+its ruins over 436 acres, and laid waste 400 streets, came to force the
+Cockneys to mend their ways somewhat, and open out their over-cramped
+habitations, some good was effected.  But, unfortunately, during the
+rebuilding of the City, Sir Christopher Wren’s plans for laying its
+streets out on a more regular plan, were poorly attended to: hence the
+still incongruous condition of older London when compared, in many
+instances, with the results of modern architecture, with reference to
+air, light, and sanitary arrangements.  On account of the rubbish left by
+the fire and other casualties, the City stands from twelve to sixteen
+feet higher than it did in the early part of its history—the roadways of
+Roman London, for example, being found on, or even below, the level of
+the cellars of the present houses.
+
+From being a city hemmed within a wall, London expanded in all
+directions, and thus gradually formed a connection with various clusters
+of dwellings in the neighbourhood.  It has, in fact, absorbed towns and
+villages to a considerable distance around: the chief of these once
+detached seats of population being the city of Westminster.  By means of
+bridges, it has also absorbed Southwark and Bermondsey, Lambeth and
+Vauxhall, on the south side of the Thames, besides many hamlets and
+villages beyond the river.
+
+By these extensions London proper, by which we mean the _City_, has
+gradually assumed, if we may so speak, the conditions of an existence
+like that of a kernel in a thickly surrounding and ever-growing mass.  By
+the census of 1861, the population of the _City_ was only 112,247; while
+including that with the entire metropolis, the number was 2,803,034—or
+_twenty-five times_ as great as the former!  It may here be remarked,
+that the population of the _City_ is becoming smaller every year, on
+account of the substitution of public buildings, railway stations and
+viaducts, and large warehouses, in place of ordinary dwelling-houses.
+Fewer and fewer people _live_ in the City.  In 1851, the number was
+127,869; it lessened by more than 15,000 between that year and 1861;
+while the population of the _whole_ metropolis increased by as many as
+440,000 in the same space of time.
+
+If we follow the Registrar-General, London, as defined by him, extends
+north and south between Norwood and Hampstead, and east and west between
+Hammersmith and Woolwich.  Its area is stated as 122 square miles.  From
+the census returns of 1861, we find that its population then was
+2,803,921 souls.  It was, in 1871, 3,251,804.  The real _city_ population
+was 74,732.
+
+The growth of London to its present enormous size may readily be
+accounted for, when we reflect that for ages it has been the capital of
+England, and the seat of her court and legislature; that since the union
+with Scotland and Ireland, it has become a centre for those two
+countries; and that, being the resort of the nobility, landed gentry, and
+other families of opulence, it has drawn a vast increase of population to
+minister to the tastes and wants of those classes; while its fine natural
+position, lying as it does on the banks of a great navigable river, some
+sixty miles from the sea, and its generally salubrious site and soil—the
+greater part of London is built on gravel, or on a species of clay
+resting on sand—alike plead in its favour.
+
+At one time London, like ancient Babylon, might fairly have been called a
+brick-built city.  It is so, of course, still, in some sense.  But we are
+greatly improving: within the last few years a large number of
+stucco-fronted houses, of ornamental character, have been erected; and
+quite recently, many wholly of stone, apart altogether from the more
+important public buildings, which of course are of stone.  Of distinct
+houses, there are now the prodigious number of 500,000, having, on an
+average, about 7.8 dwellers to a house.  For our own part we are somewhat
+sceptical as to this average.  But we quote it as given by a professedly
+good authority.
+
+The Post-Office officials ascertained that there was built in one year
+alone, as long ago as 1864, no fewer than 9,000 new houses.  Though, by
+comparison with the houses of Edinburgh and some other parts of the
+kingdom, many of these are small structures, with but two rooms, often
+communicating, on a floor, a visitor to London will find no difficulty in
+seeing acres of substantial residences around him as he strolls along
+through the wide, quiet squares of Bloomsbury, the stuccoed and more
+aristocratic quarters of Belgravia and South Kensington, or by the old
+family mansions of the nobility and gentry in, say, Cavendish, Grosvenor,
+or Portman Squares, and the large and more modern houses of many of our
+wealthy citizens in Tyburnia and Westburnia, farther westward of the
+Marble Arch.  But of this more anon.
+
+We have often heard foreigners laughingly remark of sundry London
+houses—apropos of the deep, open, sunk areas, bordered by iron railings,
+of many of them—that they illustrate, in some sense, our English reserve,
+and love of carrying out our island proverb—viz., that “every
+Englishman’s house is his castle,”—in its entirety, by each man
+barricading himself off from his neighbours advances by a fortified
+_fosse_!
+
+Without particular reference to municipal distinctions, London may (to
+convey a general idea to strangers) be divided into four principal
+portions—the _City_, which is the centre of corporate influence, and
+where the greatest part of the business is conducted; the _East End_, in
+which are the docks, and various commercial arrangements for shipping;
+the _West End_, in which are the palaces of the Queen and Royal family,
+the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey, and the residences of most
+of the nobility and gentry; and the _Southwark and Lambeth_ division,
+lying on the south side of the Thames, containing many manufacturing
+establishments, but few public buildings of interest.  Besides these, the
+northern suburbs, which include the once detached villages of Hampstead,
+Highgate, Stoke Newington, Islington, Kingsland, Hackney, Hornsey,
+Holloway, &c., and consist chiefly of private dwellings for the
+mercantile and middle classes, may be considered a peculiar and distinct
+division.  It is, however, nowhere possible to say (except when separated
+by the river) exactly where any one division begins or ends; throughout
+the vast compass of the city and suburbs, there is a blending of one
+division with that contiguous to it.  The outskirts, on all sides,
+comprise long rows or groups of villas, some detached or semi-detached,
+with small lawns or gardens.
+
+The poet Cowper, in his _Task_, more than a hundred years ago,
+appreciatively spoke of
+
+    “The villas with which London stands begirt,
+    Like a swarth Indian with his belt of beads.”
+
+We wonder what he would think now of the many houses of this kind which
+extend, in some directions, so far out of town, that there seems to be no
+getting beyond them into the country.
+
+From the Surrey division there extends southward and westward a great
+number of those ranges of neat private dwellings, as, for instance,
+towards Camberwell, Kennington, Clapham, Brixton, Dulwich, Norwood,
+Sydenham, &c.; and in these directions lie some of the most pleasant
+spots in the environs of the metropolis.
+
+The flowing of the Thames from west to east through the metropolis has
+given a general direction to the lines of street; the principal
+thoroughfares being, in some measure, parallel to the river, with the
+inferior, or at least shorter, streets branching from them.  Intersecting
+the town lengthwise, or from east to west, are three great leading
+thoroughfares at a short distance from each other, but gradually
+diverging at their western extremity.  One of these routes begins in the
+eastern environs, near Blackwall, and extends along Whitechapel,
+Leadenhall Street, Cornhill, the Poultry, Cheapside, Newgate Street,
+Holborn, and Oxford Street.  The other may be considered as starting at
+London Bridge, and passing up King William Street into Cheapside, at the
+western end of which it makes a bend round St. Paul’s Churchyard; thence
+proceeds down Ludgate Hill, along Fleet Street and the Strand to Charing
+Cross, where it sends a branch off to the left to Whitehall, and another
+diagonally to the right, up Cockspur Street; this leads forward into Pall
+Mall, and sends an offshoot up Waterloo Place into Piccadilly, which
+proceeds westward to Hyde Park Corner.  These two are the main lines in
+the metropolis, and are among the first traversed by strangers.  It will
+be observed that they unite in Cheapside, which therefore becomes an
+excessively crowded thoroughfare, particularly at the busy hours of the
+day.  More than 1000 vehicles _per hour_ pass through this street in the
+business period of an average day, besides foot-passengers!  To ease the
+traffic in Cheapside, a spacious new thoroughfare, New Cannon Street, has
+been opened, from near London Bridge westward to St. Paul’s Churchyard.
+The third main line of route is not so much thronged, nor so interesting
+to strangers.  It may be considered as beginning at the Bank, and passing
+through the City Road and the New Road to Paddington and Westbourne.  The
+New Road here mentioned has been re-named in three sections—Pentonville
+Road, from Islington to King’s Cross; Euston Road, from King’s Cross to
+Regent’s Park; and Marylebone Road, from Regent’s Park to Paddington.
+The main cross branches in the metropolis are—Farringdon Street, leading
+from Blackfriars Bridge to Holborn, and thence by Victoria Street to the
+King’s Cross Station; the Haymarket, leading from Cockspur Street; and
+Regent Street, already mentioned.  There are several important streets
+leading northward from the Holborn and Oxford Street line—such as
+Portland Place, Tottenham Court Road, King Street, and Gray’s Inn Lane.
+The principal one in the east is St. Martin’s-le-Grand and Aldersgate
+Street, which, by Goswell Street, lead to Islington; others
+are—Bishopsgate Street, leading to Shoreditch and Hackney; and Moorgate
+Street, leading northwards.  A route stretching somewhat
+north-east—Whitechapel and Mile End Roads—connects the metropolis with
+Essex.  It is a matter of general complaint that there are so few great
+channels of communication through London both lengthwise and crosswise;
+for the inferior streets, independently of their complex bearings, are
+much too narrow for regular traffic.  But this grievance, let us hope, is
+in a fair way of abatement, thanks to sundry fine new streets, and to the
+Thames Embankment, which, proceeding along the northern shore of the
+river, now furnishes a splendid thoroughfare right away from Westminster
+Bridge to Blackfriars Bridge, by means of which the public are now
+enabled to arrive at the Mansion House by a wide street—called Queen
+Victoria Street, and, by the Metropolitan District Railway, to save time
+on this route from the west.
+
+We shall have occasion again to allude to the Thames Embankment some
+pages on, and therefore, for the present, we will take
+
+
+
+
+A FIRST GLANCE AT THE CITY.
+
+
+London is too vast a place to be traversed in the limited time which
+strangers usually have at their disposal.  Nevertheless, we may rapidly
+survey the main lines of route from east to west, with some of the
+branching offshoots.  All the more important buildings, and places of
+public interest, will be found specially described under the headings to
+which they properly belong.
+
+The most striking view in the interior of the city is at the open central
+space whence Threadneedle Street, Cornhill, Lombard Street, King William
+Street, Walbrook, Cheapside, and Princes Street, radiate in seven
+different directions.  (See illustration.)  While the corner of the Bank
+of England abuts on this space on the north, it is flanked on the south
+by the Mansion House, and on the east by the Royal Exchange.  It would be
+a curious speculation to inquire how much money has been spent in
+constructions and reconstructions in and around this spot during half a
+century.  The sum must be stupendous.  Before new London Bridge was
+opened, the present King William Street did not exist; to construct it,
+houses by the score, perhaps by the hundred, had to be pulled down.  Many
+years earlier, when the Bank of England was rebuilt, and a few years
+later, when the Royal Exchange was rebuilt, vast destructions of property
+took place, to make room for structures larger than those which had
+previously existed for the same purposes.  For some distance up all the
+radii of which we have spoken, the arteries which lead from this heart of
+the commercial world, a similar process has been going on to a greater or
+less extent.  Banking-houses, insurance-offices, and commercial
+buildings, have been built or rebuilt at an immense cost, the outlay
+depending rather on the rapidly increasing value of the ground than on
+the actual charge for building.  If this particular portion of the city,
+this busy centre of wealth, should ever be invaded by such railway
+schemes as 1864, 1865, and 1866 produced, it is difficult to imagine what
+amounts would have to be paid for the purchase and removal of property.
+Time was when a hundred thousand pounds per mile was a frightful sum for
+railways; but railway directors (in London at least) do not now look
+aghast at a million sterling per mile—as witness the South-Eastern and
+the Chatham and Dover Companies, concerning which we shall have to say
+more in a future page.
+
+[Picture: Bank of England, Royal Exchange, Mansion House, &c.  (Cornhill,
+                  Lombard, Threadneedle Streets.)] {16}
+
+The seven radii of which we have spoken may be thus briefly described, as
+a preliminary guide to visitors: 1.  Leaving this wonderfully-busy centre
+by the north, with the Poultry on one hand and the Bank of England on the
+other, we pass in front of many fine new commercial buildings in Princes
+and Moorgate Streets; indeed, there is not an old house here, for both
+are entirely modern streets, penetrating through what used to be a close
+mass of small streets and alleys.  Other fine banking and commercial
+buildings may be seen stretching along either side in Lothbury and
+Gresham Streets.  Farther towards the north, a visitor would reach the
+Finsbury Square region, beyond which the establishments are of less
+important character.  2. If, instead of leaving this centre by the north,
+he turns north-east, he will pass through Threadneedle Street between the
+Bank and the Royal Exchange; [Picture: King William Street, Gracechurch
+Street, &c.  (Bank and Royal Exchange in the distance.)] next will be
+found the Stock Exchange, on the left hand; then the Sun Fire Office, and
+the Bank of London (formerly the Hall of Commerce); on the opposite side
+the City Bank, Merchant Taylor’s School, and the building that was once
+the South Sea House; beyond these is the great centre for foreign
+merchants in Broad Street, Winchester Street, Austin Friars, and the
+vicinity.  3. If, again, the route be selected due east, there will come
+into view the famous Cornhill, with its Royal Exchange, its well-stored
+shops, and its alleys on either side crowded with merchants, brokers,
+bankers, coffee-houses, and chop-houses; beyond this, Bishopsgate Street
+branches out on the left, and Gracechurch Street on the right, both full
+of memorials of commercial London; and farther east still, Leadenhall
+Street, with new buildings on the site of the late East India House,
+leads to the Jews’ Quarter around Aldgate and Houndsditch—a strange
+region, which few visitors to London think of exploring.  “Petticoat
+Lane,” perhaps one of the most extraordinary marts for old clothes, &c.,
+is on the left of Aldgate High Street.  It is well worth a visit by
+connoisseurs of queer life and character, who are able to take care of
+themselves, and remember to leave their valuables at home.  4. The fourth
+route from the great city centre leads through Lombard Street and
+Fenchurch Street—the one the head-quarters of the great banking firms of
+London; the other exhibiting many commercial buildings of late erection:
+while Mincing Lane and Mark Lane are the head-quarters for many branches
+of the foreign, colonial, and corn trades.  5. The fifth route takes the
+visitor through King William Street to the Monument, Fish Street Hill,
+Billingsgate, the Corn Exchange, the Custom House, the Thames Subway, the
+Tower, the Docks, the Thames Tunnel, London Bridge, and a host of
+interesting places, the proper examination of which would require
+something more than merely a brief visit to London.  Opposite this
+quarter, on the Surrey side of the river, are numerous shipping wharfs,
+warehouses, porter breweries, and granaries.  The fire that occurred at
+Cotton’s wharf and depôt and other wharfs near Tooley Street, in June,
+1861, illustrated the vast scale on which merchandise is collected in the
+warehouses and wharfs hereabout. {18}  Of the dense mass of streets lying
+away from the river, and eastward of the city proper, comprising
+Spitalfields, Bethnal Green, Whitechapel, Stepney, &c., little need be
+said here; the population is immense, but, excepting the Bethnal Green
+Museum and Victoria Park, there are few objects interesting; nevertheless
+the observers of social life in its humbler phases would find much to
+learn here.  6. The southern route from the great city centre takes the
+visitor, by the side of the Mansion House, through the new thoroughfare,
+Queen Victoria Street—referred to at a previous page—to the river-side.
+
+It will therefore be useful for a stranger to bear in mind, that the best
+centre of observation in the city is the open spot between the Bank, the
+Mansion House, and the Royal Exchange; where more omnibuses assemble than
+at any other spot in the world; and whence he can ramble in any one of
+seven different directions, sure of meeting with something illustrative
+of city life.  The 7th route, not yet noticed, we will now follow, as it
+proceeds towards the West End.
+
+The great central thoroughfare of Cheapside, which is closely lined with
+the shops of silversmiths and other wealthy tradesmen, is one of the
+oldest and most famous streets in the city—intimately associated with the
+municipal glories of London for centuries past.  Many of the houses in
+Cheapside and Cornhill have lately been rebuilt on a scale of much
+grandeur.  Some small plots of ground in this vicinity have been sold at
+the rate of nearly _one million sterling_ per acre!  On each side of
+Cheapside, narrow streets diverge into the dense mass behind—Ironmonger
+Lane, King Street, Milk Street, and Wood Street, on the north; and among
+others, Queen Street, Bread Street, where Milton was born, and where
+stood the famous Mermaid Tavern, where Shakespeare and Raleigh, Ben
+Jonson and his young friends, Beaumont and Fletcher, those
+twin-dramatists, loved to meet, to enjoy “the feast of reason and the
+flow of soul,” to say nothing of a few flagons of good Canary wine, Bow
+Lane, and Old ’Change, on the south.  The greater part of these back
+streets, with the lanes adjoining, are occupied by the offices or
+warehouses of wholesale dealers in cloth, silk, hosiery, lace, &c., and
+are resorted to by London and country shopkeepers for supplies.  Across
+the north end of King Street stands the Guildhall; and a little west, the
+City of London School and Goldsmiths’ Hall.  At the western end of
+Cheapside is a statue of the late Sir Robert Peel, by Behnes.  Northward
+of this point, in St. Martin’s-le-Grand, are the buildings of the Post
+and Telegraph Offices; beyond this the curious old Charter House; and
+then a line of business streets leading towards Islington.  Westward are
+two streets, parallel with each other, and both too narrow for the trade
+to be accommodated in them—Newgate Street, celebrated for its Blue Coat
+Boys and, till the recent removal of the market to Smithfield, for its
+carcass butchers; and Paternoster Row, still more celebrated for its
+publishers and booksellers.  In Panyer Alley, leading out of Newgate
+Street, is an old stone bearing the inscription:
+
+    When ye have sovght the citty rovnd,
+    Yet stil this is the highst grovnd.
+
+                                                 Avgvst the 27, 1688. {20}
+
+                             [Picture: Old stone]
+
+At the west end of Newgate Street a turning to the right gives access to
+the once celebrated Smithfield and St. John’s Gate.  South-west of
+Cheapside stands St. Paul’s Cathedral, that first and greatest of all the
+landmarks of London.  In the immediate vicinity of St. Paul’s, the names
+of many streets and lanes (Paternoster Row, Amen Corner, Ave Maria Lane,
+Creed Lane, Godliman Street, &c.) give token of their former connection
+with the religious structure and its clerical attendants.  The enclosed
+churchyard is surrounded by a street closely hemmed in with houses, now
+chiefly dedicated to trade: those on the south side being mostly
+wholesale, those on the north retail.  An open arched passage on the
+south side of the churchyard leads to Doctors’ Commons, once the
+headquarters of the ecclesiastical lawyers.
+
+    [Picture: St. Paul’s, West End of Cheapside, Paternoster Row, &c.
+           (Newgate Street and Fleet Street in the distance.)]
+
+Starting from St. Paul’s Churchyard westward, we proceed down Ludgate
+Street and Ludgate Hill, places named from the old Lud-gate, which once
+formed one of the entrances to the city ‘within the walls.’  The Old
+Bailey, on the right, contains the Central Criminal Court and Newgate
+Prison, noted places in connection with the trial and punishment of
+criminals.  On the left of Ludgate Hill is a maze of narrow streets;
+among which the chief buildings are the new Ludgate Hill Railway Station,
+Apothecaries’ Hall, and the printing office of the all-powerful _Times_
+newspaper, in Printing-House Square.  The printer of the _Times_, Mr.
+Goodlake, if applied to by letter, enclosing card of any respectable
+person, will grant an order to go over it, at 11 o’clock only, when the
+second edition of “the Thunderer” is going to press.  At the bottom of
+Ludgate Hill we come to the valley in which the once celebrated Fleet
+River, now only a covered sewer, ran north and south from St. Pancras to
+Blackfriars, where it entered the Thames.  A new street, called Victoria
+Street, formed by pulling down many poor and dilapidated houses, marks
+part of this valley; while Farringdon Street, where a market, mostly for
+green stuff, is held, occupies another part.  Newgate Street and Ludgate
+Hill are on the east of the Fleet Valley; Holborn and Fleet Street on the
+west.  The Holborn Valley Viaduct crosses at this spot.  And of this
+wonderful triumph of engineering skill we have now to speak.
+
+                    [Picture: Holborn Valley Viaduct]
+
+It was an eventful day in the annals of the Corporation of the City of
+London, when Queen Victoria, on November 6, 1869, declared Blackfriars
+Bridge—about which more hereafter—and Holborn Valley Viaduct formally
+open.  The Holborn Valley improvements, it should be remembered, were
+nothing short of the actual demolition and reconstruction of a whole
+district, formerly either squalid, over-blocked, and dilapidated in some
+parts, or over-steep and dangerous to traffic in others.  But a short
+time ago that same Holborn Valley was one of the most heart-breaking
+impediments to horse-traffic in London.  Imagine Holborn Hill sloping at
+a gradient of 1 in 18, while the opposite rising ground of Skinner
+Street—now happily done away—rose at about 1 in 20.  Figure to yourself
+the fact, that everything on wheels, and every foot passenger entering
+the City by the Holborn route, had to descend 26 feet to the Valley of
+the Fleet, and then ascend a like number to Newgate, and you will at once
+see the grand utility of levelling up so objectionable a hollow.  To
+attempt to give a stranger to London even a faint idea of what has been
+accomplished by Mr. Haywood’s engineering skill, by a necessarily brief
+description here, is an invidious task.  Nevertheless, we must essay it;
+premising, by-the-by, that if our readers while in London do not go to
+see the Viaduct for themselves, our trouble will be three parte thrown
+away.  The whole structure is cellular, to begin with.  To strip the
+subject of crabbed technicalities, imagine for a moment a long succession
+of—let us call them—railway-like arches supporting the carriage-way:
+these large vaults being available for other purposes.  Outside this
+carriage-way, and under the edge of the foot-paths on either side, is a
+subway, some 7 feet wide and 11 feet or so high.  Against the walls of
+this sub-way are fixed, readily connectable, gas mains and water mains
+and telegraph tubes.  This was the first time all these important pipes
+had been so cleverly arranged in one easily accessible place.  They are
+ventilated and partially lighted through the pavement, and by gas.  Under
+each sub-way goes a sewer, with a path beside it for the sewer men when
+at work.  Outside the sub-way are ordinary house vaults of two or three
+storeys high, according to the height of the Viaduct.  These are divided
+by transverse walls; and, when houses are built against it, the Holborn
+Valley Viaduct will be shut out from sight, except in the case of the
+simple iron girder bridge over Shoe Lane, and the London, Chatham, and
+Dover bridge, with its sub-ways for gas and water pipes, and the fine
+bridge over Farringdon Street.  You will, we trust, now see how
+marvellously every yard of space has been utilized by the engineer, from
+the roadway down to the very foundations.  A few words must now be said
+about the splendid bridge over Farringdon Street.  This has public
+staircases running up inside handsome stone buildings—the upper parts of
+which have been let for business purposes.  It is a handsome skew bridge
+of iron, toned to a deep bronze green by enamel paint, and richly
+ornamented; its plinths above ground, its moulded bases, and its shafts,
+are respectively of grey, black, and exquisitely polished red granite.
+Its capitals are of grey granite, also polished, and set off by bronze
+foliage.  Bronze lions, and four statues of Fine Art, Science, Commerce,
+and Agriculture, stand on the parapet-line on handsome plinths.  These,
+and the projecting balconies and dormer window of the stone buildings
+just named, with their four statues of bygone civic worthies,—Fitz
+Aylwin, Sir William Walworth, Sir Thomas Gresham, and Sir Hugh
+Myddleton,—enhance the effect of the whole.
+
+Poor Chatterton, “the marvellous boy, the sleepless soul that perished in
+his pride,” after poisoning himself, in 1770, ere he was eighteen years
+of age, in Brooke Street, on the north side of Holborn, was laid in a
+pauper’s grave, in what was then the burying-ground of Shoe Lane
+Workhouse, and is now converted to very different purposes.
+
+Let us now come to Fleet Street.  This thoroughfare—the main artery from
+St. Paul’s to the west—for many years has been emphatically one of
+literary associations, full as it is of newspaper and printing-offices.
+The late Angus B. Reach used humorously to call it, “The march of
+intellect.”  Wynkyn de Worde, the early printer, lived here, and two of
+his books were “fynysshed and emprynted in Flete Streete, in ye syne of
+ye Sonne.”  The _Devil_ tavern, which stood near Temple Bar, on the south
+side, was a favourite hostelrie of Ben Jonson.  At the _Mitre_, near
+Mitre Court, Dr. Johnson, Goldsmith, and Boswell, held frequent
+rendezvous.  The _Cock_ was one of the oldest and least altered taverns
+in Fleet Street.  The present poet-laureate, in one of his early poems,
+“A Monologue of Will Waterproof,” has immortalized it, in the lines
+beginning—
+
+    “Thou plump head waiter at the _Cock_,
+       To which I most resort,
+    How goes the time?  Is ’t nine o’clock?
+       Then fetch a pint of port!”
+
+ [Picture: Fleet Street from Mitre Court to Temple Bar.  (The Temple, the
+       River, Lambeth, and Houses of Parliament in the distance.)]
+
+Dr. Johnson lived many years either in Fleet Street, in Gough Square, in
+the Temple, in Johnson’s Court, in Bolt Court, &c., &c.; and in Bolt
+Court he died.  William Cobbett, and Ferguson the astronomer, were also
+among the dwellers in that court.  John Murray (the elder) began the
+publishing business in Falcon Court.  Some of the early meetings of the
+Royal Society and of the Society of Arts took place in Crane Court.
+Dryden and Richardson both lived in Salisbury Court.  Shire Lane (now
+Lower Serle’s Place), close to Temple Bar on the north, can count the
+names of Steele and Ashmole among its former inhabitants.  Izaak Walton
+lived a little way up Chancery Lane.  At the confectioner’s shop, nearly
+opposite that lane, Pope and Warburton first met.  Sir Symonds D’Ewes,
+‘Praise-God Barebones,’ Michael Drayton, and Cowley the poet, all lived
+in this street.  Many of the courts, about a dozen in number, branching
+out of Fleet Street on the north and south, are so narrow that a stranger
+would miss them unless on the alert.  Child’s Banking House, the oldest
+in London, is at the western extremity of Fleet Street, on the south
+side, and also occupies the room over the arch of Temple Bar.  St.
+Bride’s Church exhibits one of Wren’s best steeples.  St. Dunstan’s
+Church, before it was modernized, had two wooden giants in front, that
+struck the hours with clubs on two bells—a duty which they still fulfil
+in the gardens belonging to the mansion of the Marquis of Hertford in the
+Regent’s Park.  North of Fleet Street are several of the _Inns of Court_,
+where lawyers congregate; and southward is the most famous of all such
+Inns, the large group of buildings constituting the _Temple_.  In the
+cluster of buildings lying east from the Temple once existed the
+sanctuary of Whitefriars, or _Alsatia_, as it was sometimes called, a
+description of which is given by Scott in the _Fortunes of Nigel_.  The
+streets here are still narrow and of an inferior order, but all
+appearance of Alsatians and their pranks is gone.  The boundary of the
+city, at the western termination of Fleet Street, is marked by Temple
+Bar, consisting of a wide central archway, and a smaller archway at each
+side for foot-passengers.  There are doors in the main avenue which can
+be shut at pleasure; but, practically, they are never closed, except on
+the occasion of some state ceremonial, when the lord mayor affects an act
+of grace in opening them to royalty.  The structure was designed by Sir
+Christopher Wren, and erected in 1672.  The heads of decapitated
+criminals, after being boiled in pitch to preserve them, were exposed on
+iron spikes on the top of the Bar.  Horace Walpole, in his _Letters_ to
+Montague, mentions the fact of a man in Fleet Street letting out
+“spy-glasses,” at a penny a peep, to passers-by, when the heads of some
+of the hapless Jacobites were so exposed.  The last heads exhibited there
+were those of two Jacobite gentlemen who took part in the rebellion of
+1745, and were executed in that year.  Their heads remained a ghastly
+spectacle to the citizens till 1772, when they were blown down one night
+in a gale of wind.
+
+Having thus noticed some of the interesting objects east of Temple Bar,
+we will now take
+
+
+
+
+A FIRST GLANCE AT THE WEST END.
+
+
+The Strand—so called because it lies along the bank of the river, now
+hidden by houses—is a long, somewhat irregularly built street, in
+continuation westward from Temple Bar; the thoroughfare being incommoded
+by two churches—St. Clement Dane’s and St. Mary’s—in the middle of the
+road.  On the site of the latter church once stood the old Strand
+Maypole.  The new _Palace of Justice_, about whose site there have been
+so many Parliamentary discussions, will stand on what is at present a
+huge unsightly space of boarded-in waste ground, formerly occupied by a
+few good houses, between Temple Bar and Clement’s Inn, and many wretched
+back-slums.  Not having the gift of prophecy as to its future, and warned
+by so many long delays in its case, we hazard no conjecture as to the
+time when it will gladden our eyes.  In the seventeenth century the
+Strand was a species of country road, connecting the city with
+Westminster; and on its southern side stood a number of noblemen’s
+residences, with gardens towards the river.  The pleasant days are long
+since past when mansions and personages, political events and holiday
+festivities, marked the spots now denoted by Essex, Norfolk, Howard,
+Arundel, Surrey, Cecil, Salisbury, Buckingham, Villiers, Craven, and
+Northumberland Streets—a very galaxy of aristocratic names.  The most
+conspicuous building on the left-hand side is Somerset House, a vast
+range of government offices.  Adjoining this on the east (occupying the
+site once intended for an east wing to that structure), and entering by a
+passage from the Strand, is a range of rather plain, but massive brick
+buildings, erected about thirty years ago for the accommodation of King’s
+College; and adjoining it on the west, abutting on the street leading to
+Waterloo Bridge, is a still newer range of buildings appropriated to
+government offices—forming a west wing to the whole mass.  The Strand
+contains no other public structure of architectural importance, except
+the spacious new Charing Cross Railway Station and Hotel on the south
+side.  The eastern half of the Strand, however, is thickly surrounded by
+theatres—Drury Lane, Covent Garden, the Olympic, the Charing Cross, the
+Adelphi, the Vaudeville, the Lyceum, the Gaiety (built on the site of
+Exeter ’Change and the late Strand Music Hall, as is the Queen’s on that
+of St. Martin’s Hall in Long Acre), the Globe, and the Strand Theatres,
+are all situated hereabouts.  Exeter Hall is close by, and—pardon the
+contrast of ideas—so is Evans’s Hotel and Supper Rooms, long famous for
+old English glees, madrigals, chops and steaks, and as a place for
+friendly re-unions, without the objectionable features of many musical
+halls.
+
+Northumberland House, the large mansion with the lion on the summit,
+overlooking Charing Cross, is the ancestral town residence of the
+Percies, Dukes of Northumberland.  Over the way is St. Martin’s Church,
+where lie the bones of many famous London watermen—the churchyard used to
+be called “The Waterman’s Churchyard”—and those of that too celebrated
+scoundrel and housebreaker, Jack Sheppard, hanged in 1724.  There also
+lies the once famous sculptor, Roubilac, several monuments from whose
+chisel you can see in Westminster Abbey.  Here, too, are interred the
+witty, but somewhat licentious dramatist, Farquhar, author of _The Beau’s
+Stratagem_; the illustrious Robert Boyle, a philosopher not altogether
+unworthy to be named in the same category with Lord Bacon and Sir Isaac
+Newton; and John Hunter, the distinguished anatomist.
+
+The open space is called Charing Cross, from the old village of Charing,
+where stood a cross erected by Edward the First, in memory of his Queen
+Eleanor.  Wherever her bier rested, there her sorrowful husband erected a
+cross, or, as Hood whimsically said, in his usual punning vein, apropos
+of the cross at Tottenham,
+
+    “A Royal game of Fox and Goose
+       To play for such a loss;
+    Wherever she put down her orts,
+       There he—set up a _cross_!”
+
+At the time of the Reformation you could have walked with fields all the
+way on the north side of you from the city to Charing Cross.  The history
+of the fine statue of Charles the First, by Le Sœur, is curious.  It was
+made in Charles the First’s reign, but, on the civil war breaking out ere
+it could be erected, was sold by the Parliament to a brazier, who was
+ordered to demolish it.  He, however, buried it, and it remained
+underground till after the Restoration, when it was erected in 1674.  It
+marks a central point for the West End.
+
+                       [Picture: Trafalgar Square]
+
+Southward are Whitehall and the Palace of Westminster; to the west,
+Spring Gardens, leading into St. James’s Park; north-west lie Pall Mall
+and Regent Street.  By-the-way, it just occurs to us that the old game
+_Paille Maille_, from which Pall Mall took its name, was a sort of
+antique forerunner of croquet!  The former game, much beloved by Charles
+the Second, was played by striking a wooden ball with a mallet through
+hoops of iron, one of which stood at each end of an alley.  Eastward is
+the Strand.  On the north, Trafalgar Square, with Nelson’s statue and
+Landseer’s four noble lions couchant—which alone are worth a visit—at its
+base.  There are also statues to George IV., Sir Charles James Napier,
+and Sir Henry Havelock.  A statue of George the Third—with, we think, in
+an equestrian sense, one of the best “seats” for a horseman in London—is
+close by.  The National Gallery bounds the northern side.  Of the two
+wells which supply the fountains in this square, one is no less than 400
+feet deep.
+
+Turning southward from this important western centre, the visitor will
+come upon the range of national and government buildings—the Admiralty,
+the Horse Guards, the Treasury, the Home Office, &c., &c.—in Whitehall,
+particulars of which will be given a few pages further on under
+_Government Offices_.  Then there are the fine Banqueting House at
+Whitehall, and some rather majestic mansions in and near Whitehall
+Gardens—especially one just erected by the Duke of Buccleuch.  Beyond
+these, in the same general direction, are the magnificent Houses of
+Parliament, Marochetti’s equestrian statue of Richard Cœur de Lion,
+Westminster Abbey, Westminster Hall, Mr. Page’s beautiful new Westminster
+Bridge, and a number of other objects well worthy of attention.
+
+Returning to Charing Cross, the stranger may pursue his tour through
+Cockspur Street to Pall Mall, and thence proceed up Regent Street.  As he
+enters this new line of route, he will perceive that the buildings assume
+a more important aspect.  They are for the most part stucco-fronted, and
+being frequently re-painted, they have a light and cheerful appearance.
+In the Haymarket are Her Majesty’s Theatre and the Haymarket Theatre; and
+near at hand are many club-houses and Exhibition-rooms.  Pall Mall
+displays a range of stone-fronted club-houses of great magnificence.  At
+the foot of Regent Street is the short broad thoroughfare of Waterloo
+Place, lined with noble houses, and leading southwards to St. James’s
+Park.  Here stands the column dedicated to the late Duke of York; not far
+from which is the Guards’ Memorial, having reference to troops who fell
+in the Crimea.  From this point, for about a mile in a northerly
+direction, is the line of Waterloo Place, Regent Street, and Portland
+Place, forming the handsomest street in London.  At a point a short way
+up we cross Piccadilly, and enter a curve in the thoroughfare, called the
+Quadrant; at the corners of which, and also in Upper Regent Street, are
+some of the most splendid shops in London, several being decorated in a
+style of great magnificence.  Regent Street, during the busy season in
+May and June, and during the day from one till six o’clock, exhibits an
+extraordinary concourse of fashionable vehicles and foot-passengers;
+while groups of carriages are drawn up at the doors of the more elegant
+shops.  Towards its upper extremity Regent Street crosses Oxford Street.
+The mass of streets west from it consist almost entirely of private
+residences, with the special exception of Bond Street.  In this quarter
+are St. James’s, Hanover, Berkeley, Grosvenor, Cavendish, Bryanstone,
+Manchester, and Portman Squares—the last four being north of Oxford
+Street; and in connection with these squares are long, quiet streets,
+lined with houses suited for an affluent order of inhabitants.  In and
+north from Oxford Street, there are few public buildings deserving
+particular attention; but a visitor may like to know that hereabouts are
+the Soho, Baker Street, and London Crystal Palace Bazaars.  The once
+well-known Pantheon is now a wine merchant’s stores.
+
+The residences of the nobility and gentry are chiefly, as has been said,
+in the western part of the metropolis.  In this quarter there have been
+large additions of handsome streets, squares, and terraces within the
+last thirty years.  First may be mentioned the district around Belgrave
+Square, usually called _Belgravia_, which includes the highest class
+houses.  North-east from this, near Hyde Park, is the older, but still
+fashionable quarter, comprehending Park Lane and May Fair.  Still farther
+north is the modern district, sometimes called _Tyburnia_, being built on
+the ground adjacent to what once was “Tyburn,” the place of public
+executions.  This district, including Hyde Park Square and Westbourne
+Terrace, is a favourite place of residence for city merchants and other
+wealthy persons.  Lying north and north-east from Tyburnia are an
+extensive series of suburban rows of buildings and detached villas, which
+are ordinarily spoken of under the collective name St. John’s Wood:
+Regent’s Park forming a kind of rural centre to the group.  Standing
+higher and more airy than Belgravia, and being easily accessible from
+Oxford Street, this is one of the most agreeable of the suburban
+districts.
+
+                 [Picture: Bunyan’s Tomb, Bunhill Fields]
+
+If, instead of the Strand and Piccadilly route, or the Holborn and Oxford
+Street route, a visitor takes the northernmost main route, he will find
+less to interest him.  The New Road, in its several parts of City Road,
+Pentonville Road, Euston Road, and Marylebone Road, forms a broad line of
+communication from the city to Paddington, four miles in length.  Though
+very important as one of the arteries of the metropolis, it is singularly
+deficient in public buildings.  In going from the Bank to Paddington, we
+pass by or near Finsbury Square and Circus, the buildings and grounds of
+the Artillery Company at Moorfields, the once famous old Burial-ground at
+Bunhill Fields, St. Luke’s Lunatic Asylum, the Chapel in the City Road
+associated with the memory of John Wesley, the old works of the New River
+Company at Pentonville, the Railway stations at King’s Cross (Great
+Northern), and St. Pancras (Midland),—the vast span of this station’s
+roof is noteworthy,—and Euston Square (L. and N. Western), several
+stations of the Metropolitan Underground Railway, St. Pancras and
+Marylebone churches, and the entrance to the beautiful Regent’s Park.
+But beyond these little is presented to reward the pedestrian.
+
+It is well for a visitor to bear in mind, however, that all the routes we
+have here sketched have undergone, or are undergoing, rapid changes,
+owing chiefly to the wonderful extension of railways.  Cannon Street,
+Finsbury, Blackfriars, Snow Hill, Ludgate Hill, Smithfield, Charing
+Cross, Pimlico, &c., have been stripped of hundreds, nay, thousands of
+houses.
+
+
+
+
+PALACES AND MANSIONS, ROYAL AND NOBLE.
+
+
+  [Picture: St. James’s Palace and Park.  (Green Park in the distance.)]
+
+These two preliminary glances at the City and the West End having (as we
+will suppose) given the visitor some general idea of the Metropolis, we
+now proceed to describe the chief buildings and places of interest,
+conveniently grouped according to their character—beginning with
+_Palatial Residences_.
+
+St. James’s Palace.—This is an inelegant brick structure, having its
+front towards Pall Mall.  Henry VIII. built it in 1530, on the site of
+what was once an hospital for lepers.  The interior consists of several
+spacious levée and drawing rooms, besides other state and domestic
+apartments.  This palace is only used occasionally by the Queen for
+levées and drawing-rooms; for which purposes, notwithstanding its
+awkwardness, the building is better adapted than Buckingham Palace.  The
+fine bands of the Foot Guards play daily at eleven, in the Colour Court,
+or in an open quadrangle on the east side.  The Chapel Royal and the
+German Chapel are open on Sundays—the one with an English service, and
+the other with service in German.
+
+Buckingham Palace.—This edifice stands at the west end of the Mall in St.
+James’s Park, in a situation much too low in reference to the adjacent
+grounds on the north.  The site was occupied formerly by a brick mansion,
+which was pulled down by order of George IV.  The present palace (except
+the front towards the park) was planned and erected by Mr. Nash.  When
+completed, after various capricious alterations, about 1831–2, it is said
+to have cost about £700,000.  The edifice is of stone, with a main
+centre, and a wing of similar architecture projecting on each side,
+forming originally an open court in front; but the palace being too small
+for the family and retinue of the present sovereign, a new frontage has
+been built, forming an eastern side to the open court.  There is,
+however, little harmony of style between the old and new portions.  The
+interior contains many magnificent apartments, both for state and
+domestic purposes.  Among them are the Grand Staircase, the Ball-room,
+the Library, the Sculpture Gallery, the Green Drawing-room, the Throne
+Room, and the Grand Saloon.  The Queen has a collection of very fine
+pictures in the various rooms, among which is a _Rembrandt_, for which
+George IV. gave 5000 guineas.  In the garden is an elegant summer-house,
+adorned with frescoes by Eastlake, Maclise, Landseer, Stanfield, and
+other distinguished painters.  This costly palace, however, with all its
+grandeur, was so badly planned, that in a number of the passages lamps
+are required to be kept lighted even during the day.  Strangers are not
+admitted to Buckingham Palace except by special permission of the Lord
+Chamberlain, which is not easily obtained.  In the front was once the
+_Marble Arch_, which formed an entry to the Palace, and which cost
+£70,000; but it was removed to the north-east corner of Hyde Park in
+1851.
+
+ [Picture: Buckingham Palace, and West End of St. James’s Park.  (Queen’s
+              Garden and Hyde Park Corner in the distance.)]
+
+Marlborough House.—This building, the residence of the Prince and
+Princess of Wales, is immediately east of St. James’s Palace, being
+separated from it only by a carriage-road.  It was built by Sir
+Christopher Wren, in 1709, as a residence for the great Duke of
+Marlborough.  The house was bought from the Marlborough family by the
+Crown in 1817, as a residence for the Princess Charlotte.  It was
+afterwards occupied in succession by Leopold (the late king of the
+Belgians) and the Dowager Queen Adelaide.  More recently it was given up
+to the Government School of Design; and the Vernon and Turner pictures
+were for some time kept there.  The building underwent various
+alterations preparatory to its occupation by the Prince of Wales.
+
+Kensington Palace.—This is a royal palace, though no longer inhabited by
+royalty, occupying a pleasant situation west of Hyde Park.  It was built
+by Lord Chancellor Finch late in the 17th century; and soon afterwards
+sold to William III.  Additions were made to it from time to time.
+Certain portions of the exterior are regarded as fine specimens of
+brickwork; and the whole, though somewhat heavy in appearance, is not
+without points of interest.  During the last century Kensington Palace
+was constantly occupied by members of the royal family.  Many of them
+were born there, and many died there also.  The present Queen was born in
+the palace in 1819.  The Prince and Princess of Teck reside there at
+present.  This, like the other royal palaces, is maintained at the
+expense of the nation; though not now used as a royal residence,
+pensioned or favoured families occupy it.
+
+                 [Picture: Lambeth Palace from the River]
+
+Lambeth Palace.—This curious and interesting building, situated in a part
+of the metropolis seldom visited by strangers, is the official residence
+of the archbishops of Canterbury.  It is on the south bank of the Thames,
+between Westminster and Vauxhall Bridges.  The structure has grown up by
+degrees during the six centuries that Lambeth has been the archiepiscopal
+residence; and on that account exhibits great diversities of style.
+Leaving unnoticed the private and domestic apartments, the following are
+the portions of the irregular cluster possessing most interest.  The
+_Chapel_, some say, was erected in the year 1196; it is in early English,
+with lancet windows and a crypt; but the roof, stained windows, and
+carved screens, are much more recent.  The archbishops are always
+consecrated in this chapel.  The _Lollard’s Tower_, at the western end of
+the chapel, was named from some Lollards or Wickliffites supposed to have
+been imprisoned there.  It is about 400 years old.  The uppermost room,
+with strong iron rings in the walls, appears to have been the actual
+place of confinement; there are many names and inscriptions cut in the
+thick oak wainscoting.  The _Hall_, about 200 years old, is 93 feet long
+by 78 feet wide; it is noticeable for the oak roof, the bay windows, and
+the arms of several of the archbishops.  The _Library_, 250 years old,
+contains about 15,000 volumes and numerous manuscripts, many of them rare
+and curious.  The _Gatehouse_ is a red brick structure, with stone
+dressings.  The _Church_, near it, is one of the most ancient in the
+neighbourhood of London; it has been recently restored in good taste.
+Simon of Sudbury, Archbishop of Canterbury, was murdered here, in 1381,
+by Wat Tyler’s mob, who stormed the palace, burned its contents, and
+destroyed all the registers and public papers.  Lambeth Palace is not, as
+a rule, shewn to strangers.
+
+                [Picture: Lambeth Palace—Lollard’s Tower]
+
+Mansions of the Nobility.—London is not well supplied with noble mansions
+of an attractive character; they possess every comfort interiorly, but
+only a few of them have architectural pretensions.  _Northumberland
+House_, lately alluded to, at the Charing Cross extremity of the south
+side of the Strand, looks more like a nobleman’s mansion than most others
+in London.  It was built, in about 1600, by the Earl of Northampton, and
+came into the hands of the Percies in 1642.  _Stafford House_ is perhaps
+the most finely situated mansion in the metropolis, occupying the corner
+of St. James’s and the Green Parks, and presenting four complete fronts,
+each having its own architectural character.  The interior, too, is said
+to be the first of its kind in London.  The mansion was built by the Duke
+of York, with money lent by the Marquis of Stafford, afterwards Duke of
+Sutherland; but the Stafford family became owners of it, and have spent
+at least a quarter of a million sterling on the house and its
+decorations.  _Apsley House_, at the corner of Piccadilly and Hyde Park,
+is the residence of the Dukes of Wellington, and is closely associated
+with the memory of _the_ Duke.  The shell of the house, of brick, is old;
+but stone frontages, enlargements, and decorations, were afterwards made.
+The principal room facing Hyde Park, with seven windows, is that in which
+the Great Duke held the celebrated Waterloo Banquet, on the 18th of June
+in every year, from 1816 to 1852.  The windows were blocked up with
+bullet-proof iron blinds from 1831 to the day of his death in 1852; a
+rabble had shattered them during the Reform excitement, and he never
+afterwards would trust King Mob.  [Picture: Apsley House, Hyde Park
+Corner, Wellington Statue.  (Knightsbridge and Sloane Street in the
+distance.)] _Devonshire House_, in Piccadilly, faces the Green Park, and
+has a screen in front.  It has no particular architectural character; but
+the wealthy Dukes of Devonshire have collected within it valuable
+pictures, books, gems, and treasures of various kinds.  _Grosvenor
+House_, the residence of the Marquis of Westminster, is situated in Upper
+Grosvenor Street, and is celebrated for the magnificent collection of
+pictures known as the _Grosvenor Gallery_; a set of four of these
+pictures, by Rubens, cost £10,000.  _Bridgewater House_, facing the Green
+Park, is a costly modern structure, built by Sir Charles Barry for the
+Earl of Ellesmere, and finished in 1851.  It is in the Italian Palazzo
+style.  Its chief attraction is the magnificent _Bridgewater Gallery_ of
+pictures, a most rare and choice assemblage.  This gallery contains no
+fewer than 320 pictures, valued at £150,000 many years ago—though they
+would now, doubtless, sell for a much higher sum. {40}  _Holland House_,
+Kensington, is certainly the most picturesque mansion in the metropolis;
+it has an old English look about it, both in the house and its grounds.
+The mansion was built in 1607, and was celebrated as being the residence,
+at one time of Addison, at another of the late Lord Holland.  The stone
+gateway on the east of the house was designed by Inigo Jones.
+_Chesterfield House_, in South Audley Street, was built for that Earl of
+Chesterfield whose “Advice to his Son” has run through so many editions;
+the library and the garden are especially noted.  _Buccleuch House_, in
+Whitehall Gardens, is recently finished.  _Lansdowne House_, in Berkeley
+Square, the town residence of the Marquis of Lansdowne, contains some
+fine sculptures and pictures, ancient and modern.  Scarcely less
+magnificent, either as buildings or in respect of their contents, than
+the mansions of the nobility, are some of those belonging to wealthy
+commoners—such as Mr. Holford’s, a splendid structure in Park Lane; Mr.
+Hope’s, in Piccadilly, now the _Junior Athenæum Club_; and Baron
+Rothschild’s, near Apsley House, lately rebuilt.
+
+
+
+
+HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT; WESTMINSTER HALL; GOVERNMENT OFFICES.
+
+
+Houses of Parliament.—This is the name usually given to the _New Palace
+of Westminster_, which is not only Sir Charles Barry’s greatest work, but
+is in all respects one of the most remarkable structures of the age.  The
+building, which occupies a site close to the river, and close also to the
+beautiful new Westminster Bridge, was constructed in consequence of the
+burning of the old Houses of Parliament in 1834.  It is perhaps the
+finest modern Gothic structure in the world—at least for civil purposes;
+but is unfortunately composed of a stone liable to decay; and, to be
+critical, its ornaments and details generally are on too minute a scale
+for the magnitude of the building.  The entire structure covers nearly
+eight acres.  [Picture: Houses of Parliament from the River] Certain old
+plain law courts on the north are intended to be removed.  The chief
+public entrance is by Westminster Hall, which forms a vestibule to the
+Houses of Parliament and their numerous committee-rooms.  The rooms and
+staircases are almost inconceivably numerous; and there are said to be
+two miles of passages and corridors!  The river front, raised upon a fine
+terrace of Aberdeen granite, is 900 feet in length, and profusely adorned
+with statues, heraldic shields, and tracery, carved in stone.  The other
+façades are nearly as elaborate, but are not so well seen.  It is a
+gorgeous structure, which, so long ago as 1859, had cost over two
+millions.  A further cost of £107,000, for frescoes, statuary, &c., &c.,
+had been incurred by the end of March, 1860; and the constant outgoings
+for maintenance of the fabric, and additions thereto, must every year
+represent a heavy sum.  Nevertheless, the two main chambers in which
+Parliament meets are ill adapted for sight and hearing.  On Saturdays,
+both Houses can be seen free, by order from the Lord Chamberlain, easily
+obtained at a neighbouring office; and certain corridors and chambers are
+open on other days of the week.  Admission to the sittings of the two
+Houses can only be obtained by members’ orders; as the benches
+appropriated in this way are few in number, such admissions are highly
+prized, especially when any important debate is expected.  On the
+occasion when the Queen visits the House of Lords, to open or prorogue
+Parliament, visitors are only admitted by special arrangements.
+
+Among the multitude of interesting objects in this stupendous structure,
+the following may be briefly mentioned.  The _House of Peers_ is 97 feet
+long, 45 wide, and 45 high.  It is so profusely painted and gilt, and the
+windows are so darkened by deep-tinted stained glass, that the eye can
+with difficulty make out the details.  At the southern end is the
+gorgeously gilt and canopied throne; near the centre is the woolsack, on
+which the Lord Chancellor sits; at the end and sides are galleries for
+peeresses, reporters, and strangers; and on the floor of the house are
+the cushioned benches for the peers.  At either end are three
+frescoes—three behind the throne, and three over the strangers’ gallery.
+The three behind the throne are—“Edward III. conferring the Order of the
+Garter on the Black Prince,” by C. W. Cope; “The Baptism of Ethelbert,”
+by Dyce; and “Henry Prince of Wales committed to Prison for assaulting
+Judge Gascoigne,” by C. W. Cope.  The three at the other end are—“The
+Spirit of Justice,” by D. Maclise; “The Spirit of Chivalry,” by the same;
+and “The Spirit of Religion,” by J. C. Horsley.  In niches between the
+windows and at the ends are eighteen statues of Barons who signed Magna
+Charta.  The _House of Commons_, 62 feet long, 45 broad, and 45 high, is
+much less elaborate than the House of Peers.  The Speaker’s Chair is at
+the north end; and there are galleries along the sides and ends.  In a
+gallery behind the Speaker the reporters for the newspapers sit.  Over
+them is the Ladies’ Gallery, where the view is ungallantly obstructed by
+a grating.  The present ceiling is many feet below the original one: the
+room having been to this extent spoiled because the former proportions
+were bad for hearing.
+
+Strangers might infer, from the name, that these two chambers, the Houses
+of Peers and of Commons, constitute nearly the whole building; but, in
+truth, they occupy only a small part of the area.  On the side nearest to
+Westminster Abbey are _St. Stephen’s Porch_, _St. Stephen’s Corridor_,
+the _Chancellor’s Corridor_, the _Victoria Tower_, the _Royal Staircase_,
+and numerous courts and corridors.  At the south end, nearest Millbank,
+are the _Guard Room_, the _Queen’s Robing Room_, the _Royal Gallery_, the
+_Royal Court_, and the _Prince’s Chamber_.  The river front is mostly
+occupied by _Libraries_ and _Committee Rooms_.  The northern or Bridge
+Street end displays the _Clock Tower_ and the _Speaker’s Residence_.  In
+the interior of the structure are vast numbers of _lobbies_, _corridors_,
+_halls_, and _courts_.  The Saturday tickets, already mentioned, admit
+visitors to the _Prince’s Chamber_, the _House of Peers_, the _Peers’
+Lobby_, the _Peers’ Corridor_, the _Octagonal Hall_, the _Commons’
+Corridor_, the _Commons’ Lobby_, the _House of Commons_, _St. Stephen’s
+Hall_, and _St. Stephen’s Porch_.  All these places are crowded with rich
+adornments.  The _Victoria Tower_, at the south-west angle of the entire
+structure, is one of the finest in the world: it is 75 feet square and
+340 feet high; the Queen’s state entrance is in a noble arch at the base.
+The _Clock Tower_, at the north end, is 40 feet square and 320 feet high,
+profusely gilt near the top.  After two attempts made to supply this
+tower with a bell of 14 tons weight, and after both failed, one of the
+so-called ‘Big Bens,’ the weight of which is about 8 tons, (the official
+name being ‘St. Stephen,’) now tells the hour in deep tones.  There are,
+likewise, eight smaller bells to chime the quarters.  The _Clock_ is by
+far the largest and finest in this country.  There are four dials on the
+four faces of the tower, each 22½ feet in diameter; the hour-figures are
+2 feet high and 6 feet apart; the minute-marks are 14 inches apart; the
+hands weigh more than 2 cwt. the pair; the minute-hand is 16 feet long,
+and the hour-hand 9 feet; the pendulum is 15 feet long, and weighs 680
+lbs.; the weights hang down a shaft 160 feet deep.  Besides this fine
+Clock Tower, there is a _Central Tower_, over the Octagonal Hall, rising
+to a height of 300 feet; and there are smaller towers for ventilation and
+other purposes.
+
+Considering that there are nearly 500 carved stone statues in and about
+this sumptuous building, besides stained-glass windows, and oil and
+fresco paintings in great number, it is obvious that a volume would be
+required to describe them all.  In the _Queen’s Robing Room_ are painted
+frescoes from the story of King Arthur; and in the _Peers’ Robing Room_,
+subjects from Biblical history.  The _Royal Gallery_ is in the course of
+being filled with frescoes and stained windows illustrative of English
+history.  Here, among others, specially note the late D. Maclise’s
+stupendous fresco, 45 feet long by 12 feet high, representing “The
+Meeting of Wellington and Blucher after the Battle of Waterloo;” and the
+companion fresco, “The Death of Nelson.”
+
+Westminster Hall.—Although now made, in a most ingenious manner, to form
+part of the sumptuous edifice just described, _Westminster Hall_ is
+really a distinct building.  It was the old hall of the original palace
+of Westminster, built in the time of William Rufus, but partly
+re-constructed in 1398.  The carved timber roof is regarded as one of the
+finest in England.  The hall is 290 feet long, 68 wide, and 110 high.
+There are very few buildings in the world so large as this unsupported by
+pillars.  The southern end, both within and without, has been admirably
+brought into harmony with the general architecture of the Palace of
+Parliament.  Doors on the east side lead to the House of Commons; doors
+on the west lead to the _Courts of Chancery_, _Queen’s Bench_, _Common
+Pleas_, _Exchequer_, _Probate_, _and Divorce_, &c.  No building in
+England is richer in associations with events relating to kings, queens,
+and princes, than Westminster Hall.  _St. Stephen’s Crypt_, lately
+restored with great splendour, is entered from the south end of the Hall.
+
+Somerset House, in the Strand, was built in 1549 by the Protector
+Somerset; and, on his attainder and execution, fell to the Crown.  Old
+Somerset House was pulled down in 1775, and the present building erected
+in 1780, after the designs of Sir Wm. Chambers.  The rear of the building
+faces the Thames, its river frontage being 600 feet long, and an
+excellent specimen of Palladian architecture.  In Somerset House are
+several Government offices—among the rest, a branch of the Admiralty, the
+Inland Revenue, and the Registrar-General’s department.  More than 900
+clerks are employed in the various offices.  The rooms in which Newspaper
+Stamps are produced by ingenious processes, and those in which the
+Registrar-General keeps his voluminous returns of births, marriages, and
+deaths, are full of interest; but they are not accessible for mere
+curiosity.  The learned Societies are removed to Burlington House,
+Piccadilly.
+
+   [Picture: Somerset House, King’s College, Waterloo Bridge, &c.  (St.
+           Clement’s and St. Mary’s Churches in the distance.)]
+
+Government Offices.—A few words will suffice for the other West-End
+Government offices.  The _Admiralty_, in Whitehall, is the head-quarters
+of the Naval Department.  The front of the building was constructed about
+1726; and the screen, by the brothers Adam, about half-a-century later.
+Most of the heads of the Admiralty have official residences connected
+with the building.  The _Horse Guards_, a little farther down Whitehall,
+is the head-quarters of the commander-in-chief.  It was built about 1753,
+and has an arched entrance leading into St. James’s Park.  [Picture:
+Whitehall, Horse Guards, Government Offices, &c.  (Westminster Abbey and
+Houses of Parliament in the distance.)]  The two cavalry sentries,
+belonging either to the Life Guards or to the Oxford Blues, always
+attract the notice of country visitors, to whom such showy horsemen are a
+rarity.  The _Treasury_, the _Office of the __Chancellor of the
+Exchequer_, the _Home Office_, the _Privy-council Office_, and the _Board
+of Trade_, together occupy the handsome range of buildings at the corner
+of Whitehall and Downing Street.  The interior of this building is in
+great part old; after many alterations and additions, the present front,
+in the Italian Palazzo style, was built by Sir Charles Barry in 1847.
+The _Foreign Office_, the _India Office_, and the _Colonial Office_,
+occupy the handsome new buildings southward of Downing Street.  The _War
+Office_ in Pall Mall is a makeshift arrangement: it occupies the old
+quarters of the Ordnance Office, and some private houses converted to
+public use.  After many discussions as to architectural designs, &c., the
+so-called “Battle of the Styles” ended in a compromise: the Gothic
+architect (Mr. G. G. Scott, R.A.) was employed; but an Italian design was
+adopted for the new Foreign and India Offices.
+
+
+
+
+ST. PAUL’S; WESTMINSTER ABBEY; CHURCHES; CHAPELS; CEMETERIES.
+
+
+St. Paul’s Cathedral.—This is the most prominent object in the
+metropolis.  The lofty dome, seen for miles around, stands in the centre
+of an enclosed churchyard of limited dimensions, at the head of Ludgate
+Hill.  A church is said to have existed here four hundred years before
+the Norman conquest; and, under various shapes and extensions, it
+remained till destroyed by the Great Fire of London in 1666.  An entirely
+new edifice was then erected in its stead, the important work being
+committed to Sir Christopher Wren.  It was opened for divine service in
+1697, and finished in 1710—one architect and one master-mason having been
+engaged on it for 35 years. {47a}  The cathedral is built in the form of
+a cross, 514 feet in length by 286 in breadth. {47b}  Outwardly, the
+walls, which have a dark sooty appearance, except where bleached by the
+weather, exhibit a double range of windows.  There are three porticos at
+as many entrances on the north, west, and south.  That on the west is the
+principal, with twelve lofty Corinthian pillars below, and a second order
+carrying the pediment above; the angles are crowned with handsome
+bell-towers, much larger than ordinary church steeples, and 222 feet
+high.  [Picture: St. Paul’s Cathedral and Churchyard, from Ludgate Hill]
+But this entrance, which fronts Ludgate Hill, is not much used; the
+common entrance is by the north portico and flight of steps.  On
+entering, the impression produced by the vastness of the internal space
+is great, although the walls want something in tone and relief.
+(Subscriptions are being gradually raised for richly adorning the
+interior.)  There are two domes, an outer and an inner, having a brick
+cone between them.  The inner dome has six paintings relating to events
+in the life of St. Paul: they were painted by Sir James Thornhill, and
+have recently been renovated.  In the choir is much beautiful carving, by
+Grinling Gibbons.  In various parts of the cathedral are statues and
+monuments of John Howard, Dr. Johnson, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Bishop Heber,
+Nelson, Cornwallis, Abercrombie, Sir John Moore, Lord Heathfield, Howe,
+Rodney, Collingwood, St. Vincent, Picton, Ponsonby, and others.  In the
+_Crypt_ beneath are the tombs of Wellington, Nelson, Wren, Collingwood,
+Picton, Reynolds, Lawrence, Opie, West, Fuseli, Turner, Rennie, and other
+eminent men.  Service is performed on Sundays at 10.30 A.M. and 3.15
+P.M.; on week-days at 8.0, 10.0, and 4.0.  A screen, on which the organ
+stood, has lately been removed, throwing open the beautiful choir to view
+from the nave.  The organ has been placed on the north side of the choir.
+Several times in the year service is performed under the dome on Sunday
+evenings by gaslight; and an additional organ for this service has been
+set up in the south transept.  The appearance of the dome at these times,
+with a soft light shed around it, is extremely beautiful; and the
+congregation generally assembled is enormous.  If the stranger pleases to
+pay the required fees, he may mount, by means of stairs and ladders, to
+the top of the dome; and he will be amply repaid by the extensive view
+from the balcony or gallery, which comprehends the whole of London, with
+the country beyond its outskirts, and the Thames rolling placidly in its
+winding course between dense masses of houses.  The _Whispering Gallery_,
+at the bottom of the inner dome, renders audible the slightest whisper
+from side to side.  The _Library_ contains chiefly ecclesiastical works
+for the use of the Chapter.  The two _Golden Galleries_ are at the top of
+the inner and outer domes.  The _Ball_ and _Cross_, reached by more than
+600 steps, are at the summit of the building; the ball, about 6 feet in
+diameter, is reached with some difficulty.  The _Clock-work_ and _Great
+Bell_ always attract the notice of visitors.  The pendulum measures 14
+feet in length, while the mass at its extremity is one hundredweight.
+The great bell, which is only tolled when a member of the royal family
+dies, is placed in the southern turret above the western portico; it
+weighs 4½ tons, and is 10 feet in diameter.  The fine deep tones of this
+mighty bell, on which the hours are struck, sweep solemnly, in a quiet
+evening, across the metropolis, and are at times heard distinctly by
+families at their firesides far out in the suburbs.  Altogether, St.
+Paul’s is a magnificent structure; and though it cost a million and
+a-half of money in the erection—a great sum in the seventeenth
+century—the amount was well spent on so worthy an object.  St. Paul’s is
+open, during the greater part of the day, free to the public, but no
+place is exhibited during divine service.—Fee for admission to the
+whispering gallery and the two outer galleries, 6d.; the ball, 1s. 6d.;
+the clock, great bell, library, and geometrical staircase, 6d.; and the
+crypt, 6d.
+
+                     [Picture: Tomb of Nelson—crypt]
+
+Westminster Abbey.—Nearly opposite the Houses of Parliament stands
+Westminster Abbey, open to inspection on the north, west, and east, but
+much crowded upon by private dwellings on the south.  In very early times
+this spot of ground was a small insular tract, surrounded by the waters
+of the Thames, and called Thorney Island.  Here a monastic institution
+was founded on the introduction of Christianity into Britain.  Under
+Edward the Confessor an abbey was raised upon the site of the ruined
+monastic building.  The ground-plan, as usual, bore the form of the
+cross.  Rights and endowments were granted; and the edifice assumed a
+great degree of architectural grandeur.  It had become the place for the
+inauguration of the English monarchs; and William the Conqueror was
+crowned here with great pomp in 1066.  Henry III. and Edward I. enlarged
+the abbey; and the building continued nearly in the state in which they
+left it, until Henry VII. added a chapel, built in the perpendicular
+style, on which the greatest skill of the architect and the sculptor was
+displayed; exhibiting one of the most splendid structures of the age, and
+so highly esteemed, that it was enjoined that the remains of royalty
+alone should be interred within its walls.  During the reign of Henry
+VIII., the abbey was considerably defaced; but on the surrender of its
+revenues, Henry raised Westminster to the dignity of a city, and its
+abbey was constituted a cathedral.  It was, however, afterwards re-united
+to the see of London, in 1550.  (An archbishopric of Westminster, created
+by the Pope a few years ago, is connected only with Roman Catholic
+matters, and is not recognised by the English law.)  Westminster Abbey,
+during the reign of William and Mary, was thoroughly repaired, and the
+towers added at the western entrance, under the direction of Sir
+Christopher Wren.  These towers, however, though good in outline and
+general mass, are not in harmony with the rest of the building.  The
+length of the abbey is 416 feet; breadth at the transept, 203 feet; and
+at the nave, 102 feet; height of the west towers, 225 feet.  The exterior
+measurement, including Henry VII.’s Chapel, is 530 feet.
+
+         [Picture: Westminster Abbey, and St. Margaret’s Church]
+
+On entering at the great western door between the towers, the
+magnificence of the abbey soon becomes apparent.  The interior displays
+grand masses of marble columns separating the nave from the side aisles.
+A screen, surmounted by a noble organ, divides the nave from the choir;
+while beyond the eye soars, amid graceful columns, tracery, and decorated
+windows, to the summit of the eastern arch that overlooks the adjacent
+chapels.  The walls on both sides display a great profusion of sepulchral
+monuments, among which are some finely executed pieces of sculpture, and
+touching memorials of those whose exploits or exertions have deserved the
+notice of posterity; but too many, unfortunately, are in very bad taste.
+Above the line of tombs are chambers and galleries, once occupied by
+ecclesiastics; solemn and dreary in their antiquity, though relieved by
+occasional sunbeams glancing across the misty height of the nave.  The
+northern window is richly ornamented with stained glass.
+
+            [Picture: Westminster Abbey—Chapel of Henry VII.]
+
+The Chapel of Edward the Confessor is at the eastern end of the choir,
+and contains the shrine of St. Edward: that it was an exquisite piece of
+workmanship, is evident even in its decay.  Here also is the
+coronation-chair, under which is placed the celebrated stone brought from
+Scone, in Scotland, by Edward I. in 1297.  The Chapel of Henry VII. is
+also at the eastern end; and among the ashes of many royal personages
+interred here are those of Mary and Elizabeth.  The ascent to this
+splendid work of Gothic art is by steps of black marble.  The entrance
+gates display workmanship of extraordinary richness in brass.  The effect
+produced on entering this chapel is striking: the roof is wrought in
+stone into an astonishing variety of figures and devices; the stalls are
+of oak, having the deep tone of age, with Gothic canopies, all
+elaborately carved.  Here, before the remodelling of the order, used to
+be installed the knights of the Order of the Bath.  In their stalls are
+placed brass plates of their armorial insignia, and above are suspended
+their banners, swords, and helmets; beneath the stalls are seats for the
+esquires.  The pavement is composed of black and white marble; beneath
+which is the royal vault.  The magnificent tomb of Henry VII. and his
+queen stands in the body of this chapel, in a curious chantry of cast
+brass, admirably executed, and interspersed with effigies, armorial
+bearings, and devices relating to the union of the red and white roses.
+
+The number of statues and monuments in Westminster Abbey is very great.
+Most of them are contained in side-chapels, of which there are several:
+viz., St. Benedict’s, St. Edmund’s, St. Nicholas’s, St. Paul’s, St.
+Erasmus’s, John the Baptist’s, and Bishop Islip’s; besides Henry VII.’s
+and Edward the Confessor’s Chapels, already mentioned.  These Chapels
+contain about ninety monuments and shrines, some of great beauty.  The
+Choir, the Transept, and the Nave, also contain a large amount of
+sculpture—many specimens in wretched taste, by the side of some of the
+first works of Flaxman, Chantrey, Roubiliac, Nollekins, Bacon,
+Westmacott, Gibson, Behnes, and others.  _Poets’ Corner_, occupying about
+half of the south transept, is a famous place for the busts and monuments
+of eminent men—including Chaucer, Spencer, Shakespeare, Drayton, Ben
+Jonson, Milton, Butler, Davenant, Cowley, Dryden, Prior, Rowe, Gay,
+Addison, Thomson, Goldsmith, Gray, Mason, Sheridan, Southey, Campbell,
+&c.  Lord Macaulay and Lord Palmerston were recently buried in the
+Abbey—the one in January, 1860; the other in October, 1865.  William
+Makepeace Thackeray does not lie there, but at Kensal Green, though his
+bust is placed next to the statue of Joseph Addison.  On the 14th June,
+1870, Charles Dickens was interred there.  His grave is situated at the
+foot of the coffin of Handel, and at the head of the coffin of R. B.
+Sheridan, and between the coffins of Lord Macaulay and Cumberland the
+dramatist.  Near to England’s great humorist, towards his feet, lie Dr.
+Johnson and Garrick, while near them lies Thomas Campbell.  Shakespeare’s
+monument is not far from the foot of the grave.  Goldsmith’s is on the
+left.  A monumental brass, to the memory of Robert Stephenson, has
+recently been inlaid in the floor of the nave.  The _Cloisters_ and the
+_Chapter House_ contain some curious old effigies.
+
+Westminster Abbey is a collegiate church, with a dean and chapter, who
+possess a considerable authority over the adjoining district, and a
+revenue of about £30,000 per annum.  The abbey may be considered as
+sub-divided into chapels; but in the present day divine service (at
+7.45,10, and 3) is performed only in a large enclosed space near the
+eastern extremity of the building—except on Sunday evenings during a
+portion of the year, when service is performed in the nave, in a similar
+way to the Sunday evening services under the dome of St. Paul’s.  This
+evening service, at 7 o’clock, is very striking in effect.  There are
+usually a considerable number of strangers present at the services,
+particularly at that on Sunday evenings.  The entrance chiefly used is
+that at Poets’ Corner, nearly opposite the royal entrance to the Houses
+of Parliament; but on Sunday evenings the great western entrance is used.
+There is admittance every week-day free to the chief parts of the
+building, and to other parts on payment of a fee of 6d.
+
+Parish and District Churches.—When we consider that the metropolis
+contains nearly 1000 churches and chapels, it may well be conceived that
+only a few of them can be noticed here.  In addition to St. Paul’s and
+the Abbey, the following are worth the notice of strangers.  _St.
+Michael’s_, Cornhill, has lately been restored and re-decorated in an
+elaborate manner by Mr. Gilbert Scott.  _St. Bartholomew’s_, Smithfield,
+which has been lately restored, was once the choir and transepts of a
+priory church; it is interesting, not only for some of its monuments, but
+for the varieties of Norman and Gothic styles which it exhibits.  _St.
+Stephen’s_, Walbrook, close to the Mansion House, is especially worthy of
+attention; as the interior is considered to be one of Wren’s happiest
+conceptions.  _Bow Church_, or the Church of St. Mary-le-Bow, occupies a
+conspicuous position on the south side of Cheapside, and has a spire of
+great elegance, designed by Sir Christopher Wren.  The clock projects
+over the street from the lower part of the tower.  Standing as this
+church does, in the centre of the city, those who are born within the
+sound of its bells are jocularly called _Cockneys_, a name equivalent to
+genuine citizens.  [Picture: St. Stephen’s, Walbrook] The consecration of
+the Bishop of London takes place at Bow Church.  _St. Bride’s_, Fleet
+Street, is adorned with one of the most beautiful of Sir Christopher
+Wren’s steeples.  _The Temple Church_ is described in the section
+relating to the Temple and other Inns of Court.  _St. Saviour’s_ is by
+far the most important parish church on the Surrey side of the water.  It
+is near the foot of London Bridge, on the west side of High Street,
+Southwark.  It originally belonged to the Priory of St. Mary Overy, but
+was made a parish church in 1540.  The Choir and the Lady Chapel are
+parts of the original structure, and are excellent examples of the early
+English style; they have been restored in the present century.  Many
+other parts of the building deserve notice.  The _Savoy Church_, between
+the Strand and the Thames, near Waterloo Bridge, was once the Chapel of
+the Hospital of St. John the Baptist; it was destroyed by fire in 1864,
+and re-built in 1866.  _St. Paul’s_, Covent Garden, built by Inigo Jones,
+is noticeable for its massive Doric portico.  _St. James’s_, Piccadilly,
+one of the least sightly of brick churches outside, has an interior which
+exhibits Wren’s skill in a striking degree.  _St.
+Martin’s-in-the-Fields_, at the north-east corner of Trafalgar Square,
+has always been admired for its elegant spire and portico, constructed by
+Gibbs.  _St. George’s_, Hanover Square, is chiefly celebrated for the
+fashionable marriages that take place there; the exterior, is, however,
+picturesque.  _Whitehall Chapel_ was originally intended as part of a
+royal residence.  It is, in fact, the Banqueting House of the palace of
+Whitehall, the only remaining portion of what was once an extensive pile.
+The former brick structure is entirely gone.  The present edifice, built
+by Inigo Jones in the time of James I., is considered to be one of the
+finest specimens of Italian architecture in England.  Charles I. was
+executed on a scaffold erected in front of one of the windows.  The
+interior of Whitehall is about 112 feet long, 56 wide, and 56 high,
+forming exactly a double cube; the ceiling is painted by Rubens, with
+mythological designs in honour of James I.  The building, being
+appropriated to no other use, was converted into a chapel in the time of
+George I., and was modernized in the interior, about 30 years ago, by Sir
+Robert Smirke.  _Old St. Pancras Church_, in Pancras Road, a small but
+venerable structure, has in recent years been altered and adapted as a
+District Church.  Its churchyard was remarkable for the number of artists
+and other eminent persons interred in it; at one time it was the great
+metropolitan burial-place for Roman Catholics, and consequently an
+unusual number of foreigners of celebrity, French _emigrés_ during the
+Reign of Terror, &c., were buried there.  Recently, however, the old
+graveyard has been sadly cut about by the pickaxes and shovels of railway
+excavators, engaged by the Midland Railway, which passes thereby.
+
+It is worthy of note, that Sir Christopher Wren built the large number of
+_fifty-three_ churches in London after the Great Fire.  Nearly all of
+them are still standing.  Among the most noted are St. Paul’s; Bow
+Church; St. Stephen’s, Walbrook; St. Bride’s; St. Andrew’s, Holborn; St.
+Sepulchre’s; St. Antholin’s, Watling Street; Christ Church, Newgate; St.
+Clement Danes; St. Dunstan’s-in-the-East; St. James’s, Piccadilly; St.
+Lawrence, Jewry; St. Magnus, London Bridge; St. Martin’s, Ludgate; and
+St. Mary, Aldermanbury.
+
+Among churches and chapels of the Establishment, of more recent date, the
+following are worth looking at:—_New St. Pancras_, near the Euston
+Railway Station, is the most notable example in London of an imitative
+Greek temple; it was built by Messrs. Inwood, in 1822, and cost nearly
+£80,000.  _St. Marylebone_, in the Marylebone Road, built by Mr. Hardwick
+in 1817, cost £60,000; the interior is heavy in appearance, having two
+tiers of galleries; in few London churches, however, is divine service,
+according to the established ritual, performed on a more impressive
+scale.  _St. Stephen’s_, Westminster, in Rochester Row, was built wholly
+at the expense of Miss Burdett Coutts, and is a fine example of revived
+Gothic; the choral service on Sundays is grand and complete.  _St.
+Paul’s_, at Knightsbridge, and _St. Barnabas_, at Pimlico, especially the
+latter, are noticeable for the mediæval revivals, in arrangements and in
+service, which belong to what is called the high-church party.  _All
+Saints’ Church_, Margaret Street, is, perhaps, the most sumptuous of
+modern London churches.  Although small, it cost £60,000.  Mr.
+Butterfield was the architect.  The exterior is of red and black brick,
+very mediæval in appearance.  The interior is ornate, with polished
+granite piers, alabaster capitals, coloured marble decorations,
+stained-glass windows, and frescoes by Dyce.  _St. James the Less_, in
+Garden Street, Westminster, is a truly remarkable specimen of
+coloured-brick architecture, both within and without; Mr. Street was the
+architect; and the cost was defrayed by the daughters of the late Dr.
+Monk, Bishop of Gloucester.  A very noteworthy and costly brick church
+has been constructed in Baldwin’s Gardens, Gray’s Inn Lane, from the
+designs of Mr. Butterfield, and at the sole cost of Mr. J. G. Hubbard.
+It is dedicated to _St. Alban_.  The Rev. A. Mackonochie, whose extreme
+ritualistic views have several times brought his name prominently before
+the public, was the incumbent.
+
+Catholic, Dissenting, and Jewish Places of Worship.—It is almost
+impossible to give an exact enumeration of the places of worship in
+London, seeing that so many new ones are in the course of building.  But
+the following figures, based on information supplied by the London
+Post-Office Directory, and otherwise, will, it is hoped, be found to
+convey a very fair approximate notion on the subject.  In that Directory,
+then, there will be found the names of about 100 city parishes.  But of
+these, some 40 have, of late years, been united to other parishes.  Thus,
+All Hallow’s, Honey Lane, is united with St. Mary-le-Bow; St. Mary
+Magdalen, in Milk Street, is united with St. Lawrence, Jewry; and so
+forth.  Many of the parishes so united have their own churches now
+closed, or in course of demolition, and worship is provided for them at
+the churches of the particular parishes into which they have been merged.
+Without counting the city proper, there are, in London, 50 parish
+churches, and at least 300 district churches and chapels belonging to the
+Church of England.  The Roman Catholics have 41 churches and chapels,
+without reckoning sundry religious houses.  The Wesleyans have 152.  The
+recognised Dissenters from the Wesleyan body have 4; the Baptists, 109;
+the Independents, 109; the United Methodist Free Church, 27; Primitive
+Methodists, 16; the Unitarians, 8; Methodist New Connexion, 8; the
+Quakers, 5; the Presbyterians (English) 15; the Church of Scotland, 5;
+the Calvinists have 2; the Calvinistic Methodists, 3; the Welsh
+Calvinistic Methodists, 4.  The Jews have 12 Synagogues; there are 3
+French Protestant churches; 9 German (Reformed) churches and chapels;
+Swiss Protestant, 1; Swedenborgians, 2; Plymouth Brethren, 3; Catholic
+Apostolic (not Roman) 6; 1 Swedish, and 1 Greek church; 1 Russian chapel,
+and 3 meeting-houses of Free Christians; 1 Moravian; and some 40 other
+places for public worship, belonging to miscellaneous denominations.  Of
+Roman Catholic churches, the chief is _St. George’s Cathedral_, near
+Bethlehem Hospital—a very large, but heavy Gothic structure; the tower
+has never been finished for want of funds.  [Picture: The Tabernacle] The
+service here is more complete than at any other Roman Catholic structure
+in England.  _St. Mary’s_, near Moorfields; the _Spanish Chapel_, near
+Manchester Square; and the _Italian Church_, in Hatton Wall—are three
+other Roman Catholic chapels that attract many strangers by their
+excellent music.  The _Catholic and Apostolic Church_, in Gordon Square,
+may be regarded as the cathedral of the so-called Irvingites (a
+designation, however, which they repudiate); it is one of the best modern
+examples of early English, but there are no funds available for finishing
+the tower.  The minister of the National Scotch Church, in Crown Court,
+Drury Lane, is the celebrated Rev. J. Cumming, D.D., whose preaching
+attracts large congregations.  Of the dissenting chapels in London, by
+far the most remarkable is Mr. Spurgeon’s _Tabernacle_, built at a cost
+of about £30,000, at Newington, near the Elephant and Castle; everything,
+within and without, has been made subservient to the accommodating of
+4000 or 5000 persons, all of whom can hear, and nearly all see, the
+celebrated preacher.  The principal _Jews’ Synagogue_ is in Great St.
+Helen’s, near Leadenhall Street—remarkable rather for the ceremonies, at
+certain seasons of the year, than for anything in the building itself.  A
+synagogue exists for the Jews residing in the western half of the
+metropolis, in Great Portland Street.
+
+Cemeteries.—Intramural burial is now forbidden in London.  The chief
+cemeteries are those at Highgate, Finchley, Abney Park, Mile-End, Kensal
+Green, Bethnal Green, Ilford, Brompton, Norwood, Nunhead, and Camberwell.
+There is a very fine view of London, on a clear day, from the
+first-named.  Kensal Green contains the graves of many distinguished
+persons.  Princess Sophia was buried at the last-named cemetery; and a
+sedulous visitor would discover the tombs and graves of Sydney Smith, the
+daughters and a grandchild of Sir Walter Scott, Allan Cunningham, John
+Murray, Thomas Hood, Liston, Loudon, Callcott, Birkbeck, Brunel,
+Thackeray, and other persons of note.  Cardinal Wiseman lies interred in
+the Catholic Cemetery adjacent to Kensal Green.  The _Great Northern
+Cemetery_, near Colney Hatch, lately opened, has special railway
+facilities from the King’s Cross Station.  The _Woking Necropolis_, in
+Surrey, is too far distant to be included within London; nevertheless,
+the admirable railway arrangements, from a station of the South-Western,
+in the Westminster Road, make it, in effect, one of the metropolitan
+cemeteries.  If the old burial-grounds are no longer attended to for
+funerals, many of them are deeply interesting for their memorials of the
+past.  _Old St. Pancras Churchyard_ has already been named; and another
+worthy of attention is _Bunhill Fields_ burying-ground.  It has been
+called the ‘Campo Santo’ of Dissenters, for there lie the remains of
+Daniel Defoe, John Bunyan, John Owen, George Fox, (who founded the sect
+of the Quakers about 1646,) Dr. Isaac Watts, and many a stout defender of
+nonconformity.
+
+
+
+
+BRITISH AND SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUMS; SCIENTIFIC ESTABLISHMENTS.
+
+
+British Museum.—This is a great national establishment, containing a vast
+and constantly-increasing collection of books, maps, drawings, prints,
+sculptures, antiquities, and natural curiosities.  It occupies a most
+extensive suite of buildings in Great Russell Street, Bloomsbury,
+commenced in 1823, and not even now finished.  The sum spent on them is
+little less than £1,000,000.  Sir Richard Smirke was the architect.  The
+principal, or south front, 370 feet long, presents a range of 44 columns,
+the centre being a majestic portico, with sculptures in the pediment.
+Since its commencement, in 1755, the collection has been prodigiously
+increased by gifts, bequests, and purchases; and now it is, perhaps, the
+largest of the kind in the world.  The library contains more than _eight
+hundred thousand_ volumes, and is increasing enormously in extent every
+year.  The Reading-Room is open only to persons who proceed thither for
+study, or for consulting authorities.  A reading order is readily
+procured on written application, enclosing the recommendation of two
+respectable householders, to “the Principal Librarian.”  It is open
+nearly 300 days in the year, and for an average of eight hours each day.
+No general inspection of this room by strangers is allowed, except by a
+written order from the secretary, which can, however, readily be obtained
+on three days in the week.  The porters in the hall will direct to the
+secretary’s office; and strangers must be careful to observe the
+conditions on which the order is given.  The present reading-room, opened
+in 1857, and built at a cost of £150,000, is one of the finest apartments
+in the world; it is circular, 140 feet in diameter, and open to a
+dome-roof 106 feet high, supported without pillars.  This beautiful room,
+and the fireproof galleries for books which surround it, were planned by
+Mr. Panizzi, the late chief librarian.
+
+The portions of the British Museum open to ordinary visitors consist of
+an extensive series of galleries and saloons on the ground and upper
+floors, each devoted to the exhibition of a distinct class of objects.
+Among others are—terracottas, Roman sculptures and sepulchral
+antiquities, Sir T. Lawrence’s collection of casts, British antiquities,
+ethnological specimens, Egyptian antiquities, several saloons containing
+the Elgin and Phigalian Marbles, Nineveh and Lycian sculptures, &c.  The
+rooms containing objects in natural history and artificial curiosities
+are handsomely fitted up with glass-cases on the walls and tables.  Days
+may be spent in examining this vast assemblage of objects; and to assist
+in the inspection, catalogues for the entire Museum may be purchased at
+the door at a cheap price.  [Picture: Reading Room, British Museum] The
+following will convey an idea of the order in which the general contents
+of the Museum meet the eye.  Outside the building, in unsightly glass
+sheds under the porticos and colonnades, are ancient Greek sculptures
+from Asia Minor, chiefly from the famous Mausoleum of Halicarnassus; they
+are temporarily so placed until room can be found for them elsewhere.  On
+entering the hall or vestibule, and ascending the staircase, the
+galleries of natural history are reached—stuffed quadrupeds, including a
+_gorilla_ purchased from M. Chaillu; stuffed birds; birds’ eggs; shells
+in immense variety and of surpassing beauty; minerals; and fossils.
+These occupy the eastern, northern, and part of the southern galleries.
+The western, and the rest of the southern galleries, are occupied by
+numerous antiquarian and ethnological collections—including Egyptian
+mummies and ornaments, Greek and Etruscan vases, Greek and Roman bronzes,
+ancient and mediæval porcelain, ivory carvings, and specimens of the
+dresses, weapons, instruments, &c., of various nations.  On the
+ground-floor, to the right of the hall, visitors are admitted to a room
+containing a curious collection of manuscripts, autographs, and early
+printed books; and to the King’s Library, a beautiful apartment,
+containing the books presented by George IV.  This room also possesses a
+small but extremely choice display of Italian, German, and Flemish
+drawings and engravings; together with a few _nielli_, (black engravings
+on silver plates.)  The west side of the ground-floor is occupied by the
+ancient sculptures—Egyptian, Greek, Assyrian, Lycian, Roman, &c.—A
+refreshment-room for visitors was opened in 1866, and is situated in the
+western basement.
+
+The British Museum is open on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, and the
+whole of Christmas, Easter, and Whitsun weeks.  It is closed on the first
+week in January, May, and September, and on Christmas-day, Good-Friday,
+and Ash-Wednesday.  The hour of opening is 10 o’clock; that of closing
+varies from 4 till 6 o’clock, according to the season of the year.
+During many years past there have been newspaper controversies and
+parliamentary debates touching the disposal of the rich contents of the
+Museum.  Almost every part is filled to overflowing; but much diversity
+of opinion exists as to which portion, if any, shall be removed to
+another locality.  Burlington House and the South Kensington Museum, each
+has its advocates.  Immediate removal of part of the contents has been
+decided on.
+
+                       [Picture: Kensington Museum]
+
+South Kensington Museum.—This very interesting national establishment is
+situated at South Kensington, near the Cromwell and Exhibition Roads, on
+ground bought out of the profits of the Great Exhibition of 1851.  The
+varied contents have been either presented to, or purchased by, the
+nation, with the exception of a few collections which have been lent for
+temporary periods.  They consist of illustrations of manufactures and the
+useful arts; models of patented inventions; collections of raw produce,
+derived from the animal, vegetable, and mineral kingdoms; a museum of
+educational appliances; casts from sculptures and architectural
+ornaments; objects of ornamental art, both mediæval and modern; naval
+models, &c.  Besides these, there are the fine collections of paintings
+presented to the nation by Mr. Sheepshanks, and other liberal donors; and
+a portion of the Vernon collection, the rest being at the National
+Gallery.  Turner’s pictures, bequeathed to the nation in his will, were
+kept here for some years, but were removed to the National Gallery in
+1861.  There are, among the group of buildings, some devoted to the
+Government Department of Science and Art; but the Museum generally is, so
+far as concerns the public, distinct.  The Gallery of British Art
+contains many hundred pictures, including choice specimens by Turner,
+Wilkie, Mulready, Landseer, Leslie, Hogarth, Wilson, Gainsborough,
+Reynolds, Lawrence, Constable, Loutherbourg, Callcott, Collins, Etty,
+Stanfield, Roberts, Uwins, Creswick, Maclise, Webster, Eastlake, Ward,
+Cooke, Cooper, Danby, Goodall, &c.  The rooms containing these pictures,
+planned by Captain Fowke, are remarkable for the admirable mode of
+lighting, both by day and in the evening.  On Mondays, Tuesdays, and
+Saturdays, the admission is free from 10 A.M. till 10 P.M.; on the other
+three days, called _students’_ days, 6d. is charged from 10 A.M. till 4,
+5, or 6, according to the season.  This is one of the very few free
+exhibitions open in the evening (thrice a-week) as well as the daytime.
+
+Bethnal Green Museum.—This is really a branch of the South Kensington
+Museum, and is situated not far from Shoreditch Church.  It is accessible
+by omnibus from most parts of the City and the West End, and is not far
+distant from Victoria Park.  It was formally opened, in 1872, by the
+Prince and Princess of Wales.  At the present, its great attraction is
+the picture gallery; but it promises to become as popular as any museum
+in London, especially as technical information will become an essential
+feature of its future existence.  It is open under the same regulations
+as are observed at the South Kensington Museum.
+
+Museum of Economic Geology.—This small but interesting establishment,
+having an entrance in Jermyn Street, is a national museum for the
+exhibition of all such articles as belong to the mineral kingdom.  It was
+built from the designs of Mr. Pennethorne, and was opened in 1851.
+Though less extensive than the British and South Kensington Museums, it
+is of a very instructive character.  Besides the mineral specimens, raw
+and manufactured, it contains models, sections, and diagrams,
+illustrative of mining, metallurgy, and various manufactures.  It is
+open, _free_, every day, except Friday.
+
+Museum of the College of Surgeons.—This building, on the south side of
+Lincoln’s Inn Fields, can be visited by strangers only through the
+introduction of members of the College.  The Government, about seventy
+years ago, bought John Hunter’s Anatomical Museum, and presented it to
+the College.  The contents of the museum are illustrative of the
+structure and functions of the human body, both in the healthy and the
+diseased state; they have been classified and arranged with great skill
+by Professor Owen.
+
+United Service Museum.—This is situated in Whitehall Yard.  Admission is
+obtained through the members of the United Service Institution.  The
+contents of the museum consist of models, weapons, and implements
+interesting to military men.  Here see the robe worn by Tippoo Sahib,
+when killed at Seringapatam, in 1799.  Also observe Siborne’s
+extraordinary model of the battle of Waterloo; and notice the skeleton of
+the horse which Napoleon rode at that battle.
+
+East India Museum.—Near the building last noticed, in Fife House,
+Whitehall, is deposited the collection known as the East India Museum,
+formerly deposited at the India House, in Leadenhall Street, and now
+belonging to the nation.  It comprises a very curious assemblage of
+Oriental dresses, jewels, ornaments, furniture, musical instruments,
+models, paintings, tools, implements, idols, trinkets, &c.  Among the
+rest is the barbaric toy known as _Tippoo’s Tiger_.  It consists of a
+figure of a tiger trampling on a prostrate man, whom he is just about to
+seize with his teeth; the interior contains pipes and other mechanism,
+which, when wound up by a key, cause the figure of the man to utter cries
+of distress, and the tiger to roar.  Such was one of the amusements of
+Tippoo Sahib!  The museum is open free on Mondays, Wednesdays, and
+Fridays, from 10 till 4.
+
+Royal Institution.—This building, in Albemarle Street, is devoted to the
+prosecution of science, by means of lectures, experiments, discussions,
+and a scientific library.  It has been rendered famous by the brilliant
+labours of Davy and Faraday.  Admission is only obtainable by membership,
+or by fees for courses of lectures.
+
+Society of Arts.—This institution has existed in John Street, Adelphi,
+for a long series of years.  Its object is the encouragement of arts,
+manufactures, agriculture, and commerce.  Under the auspices of the late
+Prince Consort, it was mainly instrumental in bringing about the two
+great International Exhibitions of 1851 and 1862.  The lecture-room
+contains six remarkable pictures by Barry, illustrative of ‘Human
+Culture.’  Every year there are free exhibitions of manufactures and new
+mechanical inventions.
+
+Scientific Societies.—There are many other Scientific Societies which
+hold their meetings in London; but only a few of them possess buildings
+worthy of much attention, or contain collections that would interest a
+mere casual visitor.  The _Royal_, the _Astronomical_, the _Geological_,
+the _Chemical_, and the _Linnæan_ Societies, the _College of Physicians_,
+the _Institution of Civil Engineers_, and others of like kind, are those
+to which we here refer.  Many of these societies are at present
+accommodated with the use of apartments at the public expense, in
+Burlington House, Piccadilly.
+
+
+
+
+NATIONAL GALLERY; ROYAL ACADEMY; ART EXHIBITIONS.
+
+
+National Gallery.—This building, in Trafalgar Square, is the chief
+depository of the pictures belonging to the nation.  In 1824, the
+Government purchased the Angerstein collection of 38 pictures, for
+£57,000, and exhibited it for a time at a house in Pall Mall.  The
+present structure was finished in 1838, at a cost of about £100,000, from
+the designs of Mr. Wilkins.  Since that year till 1869, the Royal Academy
+occupied the eastern half, and the National Gallery the western.  In the
+last-named year, the Royal Academy was removed to Burlington House; and
+the whole of the building is now what its name denotes.  This National
+Gallery now comprises the Angerstein collection, together with numerous
+pictures presented to the nation by Lord Farnborough, Sir George
+Beaumont, the Rev. Holwell Carr, Mr. Vernon, and other persons; and, most
+recent of all, the Turner collection, bequeathed to the nation by that
+greatest of our landscape painters.  Every year, likewise, witnesses the
+purchase of choice old pictures out of funds provided by Parliament.  The
+grant annually is about £10,000.  To accommodate the constantly
+increasing collection, the centre of the building was re-constructed in
+1861, and a very handsome new saloon built, in which are deposited the
+choicest examples of the Italian Schools of Painting: forming, with its
+contents, one of the noblest rooms of the kind in Europe.  To name the
+pictures in this collection would be to name some of the finest works of
+the Italian, Spanish, Flemish, and French schools of painters.  Some of
+the most costly of the pictures are the following:—Murillo’s ‘Holy
+Family,’ £3000; Rubens’s ‘Rape of the Sabines,’ £3000; Francia’s ‘Virgin
+and Child,’ £3500; Sebastian del Piombo’s ‘Raising of Lazarus,’ 3500
+guineas; Coreggio’s ‘Holy Family,’ £3800; Perugino’s ‘Virgin and Child,’
+£4000; Claude’s ‘Seaport,’ £4000; Rubens’s ‘Judgment of Paris,’ £4200;
+Raffaelle’s ‘St. Catherine,’ £5000; Rembrandt’s ‘Woman taken in
+Adultery,’ £5250; Correggio’s ‘Ecce Homo,’ and ‘Mercury instructing
+Cupid,’ 10,000 guineas; and Paul Veronese’s ‘Family of Darius,’ £14,000.
+
+Royal Academy, Burlington House.—The Academy was established in 1768, for
+the encouragement of the fine arts.  Until the finishing of Mr. Wilkin’s
+building, the Academy held its meetings and exhibitions in a small number
+of rooms at Somerset House.  Students are admitted on evidence of
+sufficient preliminary training, and taught gratuitously; but so far as
+the public is concerned, the Royal Academy is chiefly known by its famous
+Annual Exhibition of modern English pictures and sculptures, from May to
+July.  This Exhibition is a very profitable affair to the Academy.  Royal
+commissions and parliamentary committees find a difficulty in
+investigating the revenues, privileges, and claims of the Academy; it is
+known, however, that the schools are maintained out of the profits.
+Concerning the building in Trafalgar Square, most persons agree that the
+main front is too much cut up in petty detail, and that one of the finest
+sites in Europe has thus been comparatively neglected.  Some have
+humorously nicknamed it “The National Cruet Stand.”
+
+National Portrait Gallery.—This infant gallery, established by the nation
+in 1857, is now at Exhibition Road, South Kensington.  The object is to
+be strictly confined to the collecting of a series of national portraits
+of persons of any note, whether of early or of late days.  A sum of £2000
+a-year is voted for this purpose.  The collection is yet only small, but
+very interesting, and is yearly increasing.  Open free on Wednesdays and
+Saturdays.
+
+Soane Museum.—This closely-packed collection, presented to the nation by
+the late Sir John Soane, the architect, occupies the house which he used
+to inhabit, at No. 13, on the north side of Lincoln’s Inn Fields.  Every
+nook and corner of about 24 rooms is crowded with works of
+art—sarcophagi, ancient gems and intaglios, medals and coins, sculptures,
+sketches and models of sculptures, books of prints, portfolios of
+drawings, Hogarth’s famous series of pictures of the ‘Rake’s Progress,’
+and numerous other examples of _vertu_, some of which cost large sums of
+money.  The place is open every Wednesday from February to August
+inclusive, and every Thursday and Friday in April, May, and June, from 10
+till 4.  Still, these are very insufficient facilities (only 56 days out
+of the 365 in the year) for seeing a fine collection of treasures.
+Orders for admission are sent, on application, by post.
+
+Art Exhibitions.—There are always numerous picture exhibitions open in
+the summer months—such as those formed by the _British Institution_, the
+_Society of British Artists_, the _Society of Painters in Water Colours_,
+&c.; concerning which information can be seen in the advertisement
+columns of the newspapers.  At the British Institution there is a spring
+exhibition of modern pictures, and a summer exhibition of ancient.  The
+price of admission to such places is almost invariably One Shilling.
+Other exhibitions, pertaining more to entertainment than to fine arts,
+are briefly noticed in a later section.
+
+
+
+
+COLLEGES; SCHOOLS; HOSPITALS; CHARITIES.
+
+
+London, as may well be imagined, is largely supplied with institutions
+tending to the proper care of the young, the aged, the sick, and the
+impoverished.  A few of the more important among them are worthy of the
+attention of strangers.
+
+Colleges.—The two chief colleges in London are connected with the _London
+University_.  This University is a body of persons, not (as many suppose)
+a building.  The body was established in 1837, to confer degrees on the
+students or graduates of many different colleges in and about London.  It
+occupies apartments at Burlington House, Piccadilly, lent by the
+government for examining purposes; but it neither teaches nor gives
+lectures.  _University College_, in Gower Street, was originally called
+_London University_; but since 1837, the more limited designation has
+been given to it.  [Picture: University College] It was founded in 1828,
+on the proprietary system, to afford a good middle-class education at a
+moderate expense, without limitation as to religious tests.  Hence it is
+much frequented by Jews, Parsees, Hindoos, &c.  The whole range of
+college tuition is given, except divinity; with the addition of much
+fuller instruction in science and in modern languages than was before
+given in colleges.  The building, with its lofty portico, might possibly
+have presented a good appearance if the plans of the architect had been
+carried out; but, through want of funds, the wings have never been built,
+and the structure is ridiculously incomplete.  The college possesses a
+fine collection of casts from Flaxman’s sculptures, usually open to
+inspection by strangers.  _King’s College_, in the Strand, has been
+already mentioned as adjoining Somerset House on the east.  It was
+founded in the same year as University College, expressly in connection
+with the Established Church of England.  There was some sectarian
+bitterness between the two establishments at first, but both have settled
+down into a steady career of usefulness.  The teaching of divinity, and
+the observance of church-service as part of the routine, are maintained
+at King’s College.  _Gordon College_, or _University Hall_, in Gordon
+Square, is an establishment mainly supported by Unitarians; the building
+itself, as a modern imitation of the old red-brick style, is worthy of a
+passing glance.  _New College_, at St. John’s Wood, for
+Congregationalists or Independents; the _Baptist College_, in the
+Regent’s Park; the _English Presbyterian Theological College_, Guildford
+Street, W.C.; the _Wesleyan College_, in the Horseferry Road; _Hackney
+College_; and a few others of less note—are establishments maintained by
+various bodies of dissenters; some for educating ministers for the
+pulpit; some for training schoolmasters and schoolmistresses.  Of the
+buildings so occupied, the handsomest is New College.  This was
+established, a few years ago, as a substitute for _Highbury_, _Homerton_,
+and _Coward_ Colleges, all belonging to the Congregationalists.  _Gresham
+College_: this is not a college in the modern sense of the term; it is
+only a lecture-room.  Sir Thomas Gresham left an endowment for an annual
+series of lectures, and residences and stipends for the lecturers.  The
+charity was greatly misused during the 17th and 18th centuries.  Public
+attention having been called to the subject, a new lecture hall was
+built, a few years ago, at the corner of Basinghall and Gresham Streets,
+out of the accumulated fund; and lectures are delivered here at certain
+periods of each year.  The subjects are divinity, physic, astronomy,
+geometry, law, rhetoric, and music.  The lectures take place in the
+middle of the day, some in Latin, some in English; they are freely open
+to the public; but the auditors, at such an hour and in such a
+place—surrounded by the busy hum of commerce—are very few in number.
+Among the training colleges for schoolmasters and mistresses may be named
+the _National Society’s_ at Battersea; _St. Mark’s Training College_,
+Fulham Road; the _Training Institution_ for schoolmistresses, King’s
+Road, Chelsea; the _British and Foreign_ in the Borough Road; and the
+_Home and Colonial_ in Gray’s Inn Road.  At Islington is a Church of
+England Training College for missionaries.  The _College of Preceptors_,
+in Queen Square, resembles the London University in this, that it confers
+a sort of degree, or academical rank, but does not teach.  Many so-called
+colleges are either proprietary or private schools.
+
+Great Public Schools.—The chief of these in London is _Westminster
+School_, not for the building itself, but for the celebrity of the
+institution; although the college hall, once the refectory of the old
+abbots of Westminster, is interesting from its very antiquity.  The
+school, which was founded in 1560, lies south-west of Westminster Abbey,
+but very near it.  Some of our greatest statesmen and scholars have been
+educated here.  _St. Paul’s School_, situated on the eastern side of St.
+Paul’s Churchyard, was founded in 1521, by Dean Colet, for the education
+of ‘poor men’s children.’  Like many others of the older schools, the
+benefits are not conferred so fully as they ought to be on the class
+designated.  The presentations are wholly in the hands of the Mercers’
+Company.  The now existing school-house, the third on the same site, was
+built in 1823.  The _Charter House School_, near Aldersgate Street, is
+part of a charity established by Thomas Sutton in 1611.  Among other
+great men here educated were the late Sir Henry Havelock, and W. M.
+Thackeray.  There is an Hospital or Almshouse for about 80 ‘poor
+Brethren,’ men who have seen better days; and there is a school for the
+free education of 40 ‘poor Boys,’ with many more whose parents pay for
+their schooling.  The chapel and ante-chapel, the great hall and
+staircase, and the governor’s room, are interesting parts of the
+building.  _Christ’s Hospital_, or the _Blue Coat School_—as it is
+commonly called from the colour of the boys’ dress—is situated within an
+enclosure on the north side of Newgate Street, and is one of the most
+splendid among the charitable foundations of London.  The buildings stand
+on the site of a monastery of Grey-friars, which was granted by Henry
+VIII. to the city for the use of the poor; and his son and successor,
+Edward VI., greatly extended the value of the gift by granting a charter
+for its foundation as a charity school, and at the same time endowing it
+with sundry benefactions.  The hospital was opened, for the reception and
+education of boys, in 1552.  Charles II. added an endowment for a
+mathematical class; and with various augmentations of endowment, the
+annual revenue is now understood to be no less than £40,000.  This income
+supports and educates nearly 1200 children, 500 of whom, including girls,
+are boarded at the town of Hertford, for the sake of country air.  The
+management of the institution is vested in a body of governors, composed
+of the lord mayor and aldermen, twelve common-councilmen chosen by lot,
+and all benefactors to the amount of £400 and upwards.  The children are
+admitted without reference to the City privileges of parents; about one
+hundred and fifty are entered annually.  It is undeniable, however, that
+many children are admitted rather through interest than on account of the
+poverty of their parents.  After instruction in the elementary branches
+of schooling, the greater number of the boys leave the hospital at the
+age of fifteen; those only remaining longer who intend to proceed to the
+university, or to go to sea after completing a course of mathematics.
+There are seven presentations at Cambridge, and one at Oxford, open to
+the scholars.  The buildings of the institution embrace several
+structures of large dimensions, chiefly ranged round open courts, with
+cloisters beneath; and a Church, which also serves as a parochial place
+of worship.  The only part of the establishment, however, worth examining
+for its architecture is the Great Hall, occupying the first floor of a
+building of modern date, designed by Mr. Shaw, in the Gothic style.  It
+measures 187 feet long, 51 feet broad, and 47 high, and possesses an
+organ-gallery at the east end.  In this magnificent apartment the boys
+breakfast, dine, and sup.  Before meals, one of the elder inmates repeats
+a long grace or prayer, at the commencement of which the whole of the
+boys, in lines at their respective tables, fall on their knees.  The boys
+are dressed in the costume selected for them in Edward VI.’s reign; the
+outer garments consisting of a long dark-blue coat, breeches, and yellow
+worsted stockings.  The ‘public suppers,’ on Thursdays in Lent, are worth
+the attention of strangers: (tickets from governors.)  _Merchant Taylors’
+School_, situated in a close part of the City behind the Mansion House,
+was founded in 1561 by the Merchant Taylors’ Company.  The present
+structure was built in 1673, with the exception of some of the
+classrooms, which are much more modern.  About 260 boys are educated,
+wholly on the presentation of members of the Company; and there are
+numerous fellowships at St. John’s College, Oxford, open to the scholars.
+_Mercers’ Free Grammar School_, in College Hill, is a small establishment
+of similar kind.  The _City of London School_, in Milk Street, Cheapside,
+is one of the most modern of these _Grammar_ Schools, as they are called.
+It was founded in 1835, and possesses several Exhibitions for successful
+senior scholars.
+
+Other Schools.—The schools established under the auspices of the National
+Society, called _National_ Schools, are very numerous, but need hardly be
+noticed here.  The _British and Foreign School Society_, in the Borough
+Road, and the _Home and Colonial School Society_, in Gray’s Inn Road,
+train up teachers without reference to religious tests; whereas the
+_National Society_ is in connection with the Church of England.  Many
+very superior schools for girls, under the designation of _Ladies’
+Colleges_, have been established in the metropolis within the last few
+years, in Harley Street and in Bedford Square, &c.  The _Government
+School of Art for Ladies_ is in Queen Square, Bloomsbury.  The _National
+Art Training School_ is at South Kensington.
+
+The London School Board, elected in 1870, under the new Education Act,
+has its _locale_ at 33 New Bridge Street, Blackfriars.  It has,
+practically speaking, almost entire control of the educational systems of
+the metropolis, and is armed with inquisitorial powers that remind us of
+the ancient Star Chamber.  Still, the system of election of the members
+of the Board gives a certain guarantee of responsibility, that makes its
+prestige, at least, without suspicion.
+
+Schools of Telegraphy are established at 138 Regent Street, W., and 24
+City Road, E.C., where the art is fully instructed, to resident and
+non-resident pupils.
+
+Hospitals and Charitable Institutions.—A small volume might readily be
+filled with a list of London’s charitable institutions.  The charities
+connected in some way with the corporation of London are _Christ’s
+Hospital_, for boarding and educating youth, already mentioned;
+_Bethlehem Hospital_, Lambeth, for insane patients; _St. Thomas’s
+Hospital_, for treating poor patients diseased and hurt; and _St.
+Bartholomew’s Hospital_, West Smithfield, for the same purpose.  The City
+companies likewise support a number of beneficiary institutions, such as
+the _Ironmongers’ Almhouses_ at Kingsland, and others of like kind.  The
+following hospitals are the most important among the large number founded
+and supported by private benevolence:—_Guy’s Hospital_, Southwark;
+_London Hospital_, Whitechapel Road; _Westminster Hospital_, near the
+Abbey; _St. George’s Hospital_, Hyde Park Corner; _Middlesex Hospital_,
+Charles Street, Oxford Street; _University College Hospital_, Gower
+Street; _St. Luke’s Hospital_, for the insane, City Road; _King’s College
+Hospital_, near Clare Market; _Small-Pox Hospital_, Highgate Rise; the
+_Foundling Hospital_, Great Guildford Street; the _Consumption Hospital_,
+Brompton; _Charing Cross Hospital_, Agar Street; the _Lock Hospital_,
+Harrow Road; and the _Royal Free Hospital_, Gray’s Inn Road.  Besides
+these, there are several Lying-in hospitals, a Floating hospital on the
+Thames, now substituted by a part of Greenwich Hospital being devoted to
+a similar use; various Ophthalmic hospitals, and numerous Dispensaries
+and Infirmaries for particular diseases.  Institutions for the relief of
+indigent persons, Deaf and Dumb asylums, Blind asylums, and Orphan
+asylums, are far too numerous to be specified.  In short, there are in
+this great metropolis about 250 hospitals, dispensaries, infirmaries,
+asylums, and almshouses; besides at least 400 religious, visiting, and
+benevolent institutions for ministering to the various ills, mental and
+moral, bodily or worldly, to which an immense population is always
+subject.  It is supposed that these several institutions receive in
+subscriptions considerably over £2,000,000 annually.  Some of the
+hospital buildings above named are large and majestic in appearance.
+When, for the Charing Cross extension of the South-Eastern Railway, St.
+Thomas’s Hospital and site, which formerly stood close to London Bridge
+Station, were purchased for a sum not very much under £300,000, it was
+arranged to rebuild the hospital between the south end of Westminster
+Bridge and Lambeth Palace.  This hospital, which is now completed,
+affords a fine object from a steamboat passing up the river, and is
+certainly one of the noblest buildings of its class in Europe.
+
+
+
+
+THE TOWER; THE MINT; THE CUSTOM HOUSE; THE GENERAL POST OFFICE.
+
+
+This section treats of four important government buildings situated in
+the eastern half of the metropolis.
+
+The Tower of London.—This famous structure, or rather group of
+structures, is a cluster of houses, towers, barracks, armouries,
+warehouses, and prison-like edifices, situated on the north bank of the
+Thames, and separated from the crowded narrow streets of the city by an
+open space of ground called Tower-hill.  The Tower was founded by William
+the Conqueror, probably on the site of an older fortress, to secure his
+authority over the inhabitants of London; but the original fort which he
+established on the spot was greatly extended by subsequent monarchs; and
+in the twelfth century it was surrounded by a wet ditch, which was
+improved in the reign of Charles II.  This ditch or moat was drained in
+1843.  Within the outer wall the ground measures upwards of twelve acres.
+Next the river there is a broad quay; and on this side also there was a
+channel (now closed) by which boats formerly passed into the main body of
+the place.  This water-entrance is known by the name of Traitors’ Gate,
+being that by which, in former days, state prisoners were brought in
+boats after their trial at Westminster.  There are three other entrances
+or postern-gates—Lion Gate, Iron Gate, and Water Gate—only two of which,
+however, are now used.  The interior of the Tower is an irregular
+assemblage of short streets and courtyards, bounded by various
+structures.  The _White Tower_, or _Keep_, is the oldest of these
+buildings; and the _Chapel_ in it is a fine specimen of a small Norman
+church.  Other towers are the _Lion Tower_, near the principal entrance;
+the _Middle Tower_, the first seen on passing the ditch; the _Bell
+Tower_, adjacent to it; the _Bloody Tower_, nearly opposite _Traitors’
+Gate_; the _Salt Tower_, near the Iron Gate; _Brick Tower_, where Lady
+Jane Grey was confined; _Bowyer Tower_, where the Duke of Clarence is
+said to have been [Picture: Chapel in Tower] drowned in the butt of
+malmsey; and _Beauchamp Tower_, where Anne Boleyn was imprisoned.  These
+old towers are very curious, but few of them are open to the public.  The
+principal objects of interest are a collection of cannon, being trophies
+of war; the horse armoury, a most interesting collection of suits of mail
+on stuffed figures; and the crown and other insignia of royalty.  In the
+_Horse Armoury_, a long gallery built in 1826, is an extensive collection
+of armour, arranged by Sir Samuel Meyrick, a great authority on this
+subject.  It comprises whole suits of armour, consisting of hauberks,
+chausses, surcoats, baldricks, breast-plates, back-plates, chain-mail
+sleeves and skirts, gauntlets, helmets, frontlets, vamplates, flanchards,
+and other pieces known to the old armourers.  About twenty complete suits
+of armour are placed upon stuffed figures of men, mostly on stuffed
+horses.  Four of the suits belonged to Henry VIII., Dudley Earl of
+Leicester, Henry Prince of Wales, and Charles I.; the others are merely
+intended to illustrate the kinds of armour in vogue at certain periods.
+One suit, of the time of Richard III., [Picture: Traitor’s Gate, Chapel
+White Tower] was worn by the Marquis of Waterford at the Eglinton
+tournament in 1839.  The gallery also contains some other curiosities
+relating to the armour of past days.  _Queen Elizabeth’s Armoury_ is in
+the White Tower, the walls of which are 13 feet thick, and still contain
+traces of inscriptions by state prisoners in troubled times: the armoury
+contains many curious old shields, bows, Spanish instruments of torture,
+petronels, partisans, beheading axe and block, thumb-screws, Lochaber
+axes, matchlocks, arquebuses, swords, &c.  Immediately outside these
+Armouries, in the open air, are some curious cannon and mortars belonging
+to different ages and different countries.  The new _Barracks_ occupy the
+site of the Small Arms Armoury, destroyed by fire in 1841, when 280,000
+stand of arms were destroyed.  The _Lions_ in the Tower were among the
+sights of the place for nearly 600 years; they were in a building near
+the present ticket-office, but were given to the Zoological Society in
+1834.  The _Jewel House_, a well-guarded room to the east of the
+Armouries, contains a valuable collection of state jewels.  Among them
+are the following:—_St. Edward’s Crown_, used at all the coronations from
+Charles II. to William IV.; the _New State Crown_, made for the
+coronation of Queen Victoria, and valued at more than £100,000; the
+_Prince of Wales’s_ and the _Queen Consort’s Crowns_ (the most recent
+wearer of the last was Queen Adelaide); the _Queen’s Diadem_; the _Royal
+Sceptre_, _Queen’s Sceptre_, and _Queen’s Ivory Sceptre_; the _Orb_ and
+the _Queen’s Orb_; _St. Edward’s Staff_ and the _Rod of Equity_; the
+_Swords of Mercy and of Justice_; the _Coronation Bracelets_ and _Royal
+Spurs_; the _Ampulla_ for the holy oil, and the _Coronation Spoon_; the
+silver-gilt _Baptismal Font_, used at the christening of royal children;
+and the famous _Koh-i-noor_, or ‘Mountain of Light,’ the wonderful
+diamond once belonging to Runjeet Singh, chief of Lahore, but now the
+property of Queen Victoria,—it was an object of great interest at the two
+great Exhibitions in 1851 and 1862.  Strangers, on applying at an office
+at the entrance from Tower-hill, are conducted through a portion of the
+buildings by warders, who wear a curious costume of Henry VIII.’s
+time—some years ago rendered incongruous by the substitution of black
+trousers for scarlet hose.  These warders, or _beef-eaters_ (as they are
+often called), go their rounds with visitors every half-hour from 10 till
+4.  The word “beef-eaters” was a vulgar corruption of _beaufetiers_,
+battle-axe guards, who were first raised by Henry VII. in 1485.  They
+were originally attendants upon the king’s buffet.  A fee of 6d. is
+charged for seeing the Armouries, and 6d. for the Jewel House.  From time
+to time, when foreign politics look threatening, the Tower undergoes
+alterations and renovations to increase its utility as a fortress; and it
+is at all times under strict military government.
+
+The Mint.—This structure, situated a little north-east of the Tower, is
+the establishment in which the coinage is in great part made, and wholly
+regulated.  The rooms, the machinery, and the processes for coining, are
+all full of interest.  The assaying of the gold and silver for coinage;
+the alloying and melting; the casting into ingots; the flattening,
+rolling, and laminating of the ingots to the proper thickness; the
+cutting into strips, and the strips into circular blanks; the stamping of
+those blanks on both surfaces; and the testing to ascertain that every
+coin is of the proper weight—are all processes in which very beautiful
+and perfect apparatus is needed.  Copper and bronze coins are mostly made
+for the government at Birmingham.  From a statement made in parliament,
+in August, 1869, by the Right Hon. Robert Lowe, we gathered that _98
+millions of sovereigns_ had been coined in the Mint since 1850.  But of
+these no fewer than 44 millions had been lost to our coinage, because
+many of the sovereigns, being overweight, had been sent to the Continent
+to be melted down as bullion!  There are nearly 500 millions of copper
+coin in circulation; and of silver coin, from crown pieces down to
+threepenny pieces, something like the astounding number of 286,220,000.
+Permission to view this interesting establishment could at one time only
+be obtained by special application to the Master of the Mint, who has an
+official residence at the spot; but since the death of the late Master,
+Dr. Graham, that office will not in future be filled up.  A letter to the
+Deputy Master will probably obtain the required order to view.  We should
+add that the removal of the Mint to Somerset House is now seriously
+contemplated.  It is urged that the price of its present site, if sold,
+would readily defray cost of removal.
+
+Custom House.—This important building, situated on the north bank of the
+Thames, between London Bridge and the Tower, occupies a site on which
+other and smaller custom houses had previously stood.  The east and west
+ends of the present structure were finished in 1817 by Mr. Laing; but the
+central portion was rebuilt afterwards from the designs of Sir Robert
+Smirke.  The river front is extensive, and although not architecturally
+fine, the general appearance is effective.  One of the few broad terraces
+on the banks of the Thames is that in front of the Custom House; it is a
+good position from whence strangers can view the shipping in the river.
+The ‘Long Room’ in this building is 190 feet long by 66 broad.  By way of
+illustrating the enormous amount of business done here, we may mention,
+that in the years 1867–68, the amount of Customs’ receipts collected in
+the port of London was _more_ than [Picture: Billingsgate, Coal Exchange,
+and Custom House.  (Fenchurch Station, behind at the right.)] that of all
+the _other ports_ of _Great Britain_ taken together, and five times that
+of the whole of Ireland.  In 1867, the port of London gross receipts were
+£10,819,711; and in 1868, £10,694,494.  The vast Customs’ duties for the
+port of London, amounting to nearly half of those for the whole United
+Kingdom, are managed here.
+
+ [Picture: General Post Office, &c.  (Tower, Monument, and London Bridge
+                            in the distance.)]
+
+General Poet Office.—This large building, at the corner of Cheapside and
+St. Martin’s-le-Grand, was finished in 1829, from the designs of Sir
+Robert Smirke.  It is in the Ionic style, with a lofty central portico;
+beneath which is the entrance to the spacious hall (80 feet long, 60 feet
+wide, and 53 feet high), having also an entrance at the opposite
+extremity; but the central Hall is now entirely enclosed, owing to the
+recent great extension of the Postal business.  A Money-order Office has
+been built on the opposite side of the street; and the Post Office has
+been added to in various ways, to make room for increased business.  The
+main building, which contains a vast number of rooms, is enclosed by a
+railing; and at the north end is a courtyard, in which mail-vans range up
+and depart with their load of bags, at certain hours in the morning and
+evening, for the several railway termini.  At other portions of the
+building the foreign, colonial, and India mails are despatched.  From six
+to seven o’clock in the evening a prodigious bustle prevails in putting
+letters into the Post Office; and on Saturday evening, when the Sunday
+newspapers are posted, the excitement is still further
+increased—especially just before six, by which hour the newspapers must
+be posted.  The establishment, some four years ago, employed 20,000
+clerks, sorters, and letter-carriers in the various parts of the United
+Kingdom; and since the Post Office took over the business of the
+Telegraph Companies, the number of its employés is greatly increased.
+The postage charged on foreign and colonial letters is too small to pay
+for the mail-packets and other expenses; profit is derived only from the
+inland letters.  There are now in London and the suburbs about 730
+pillar-boxes and wall-boxes; without counting receiving houses.
+Newspapers and book packets must not be put in town pillar-boxes.  A very
+useful novelty, _Post Office Savings’ Banks_, was introduced in 1861.  In
+the year 1840, in which the uniform rate of one penny per letter of half
+an ounce weight, &c., commenced, the revenue of the Post Office was only
+£471,000.  Its revenue received during the year 1871–72 was no less than
+£6,102,900, and every year the receipts are increasing.  New postal
+buildings of great extent have been erected on the opposite side of the
+street.
+
+
+
+
+THE CORPORATION; MANSION HOUSE; GUILDHALL; MONUMENT; ROYAL EXCHANGE.
+
+
+It will be convenient to group here certain buildings belonging to the
+Corporation of London; and to prefix to a notice of them some account of
+the mode in which the city of London is governed.
+
+The Corporation.—With respect to civic jurisdiction, the city of London
+is governed in a peculiar manner.  In virtue of ancient charters and
+privileges, the city is a species of independent community, governed by
+its own laws and functionaries.  While all other boroughs have been
+reformed in their constitution, London has been suffered to remain, as
+yet, in the enjoyment of nearly all its old usages.  The city is civilly
+divided into twenty-five wards, each of which has an alderman; and with
+one alderman without a ward, the number of aldermen is 26.  Each is
+chosen for life, and acts as magistrate within his division.  The freemen
+of the various wards elect representatives annually to the
+common-council, to the number of 206 members.  The lord mayor, aldermen,
+and common-council, compose the legislative body for the city.  The lord
+mayor is chosen by a numerous and respectable constituency, called _the
+livery_, or liverymen; these are certain qualified members of trading
+corporations, who, except in electing the lord mayor, sheriffs, members
+of parliament, &c., do not directly interfere in city management.  The
+Court of Aldermen and the Court of Common-council have certain
+legislative and executive duties, partly with and partly without the
+immediate aid of the lord mayor.  The revenue of the city corporation is
+derived from sundry dues, rents, interest of bequests, fines for leases,
+&c.  The magistracy, police, and prisons cost about £40,000 annually; but
+this is exclusive of large sums disbursed by the court of aldermen.  The
+lord mayor is elected annually, on the 29th of September, from among the
+body of aldermen.  The livery send a list of two candidates to the court
+of aldermen, and one of these, generally the senior, is chosen by them.
+He enters office, with much pomp, on the 9th of November, which is hence
+called Lord Mayor’s Day.  The procession through the streets on this
+occasion attracts citizens as well as strangers.  The advocate and legal
+adviser of the corporation is an official with the title of Recorder.
+The lord mayor and corporation exercise a jurisdiction over Southwark and
+other precincts.  Westminster, which is not connected in civic matters
+with London Proper, is under the jurisdiction of a high-bailiff.  The
+city returns 4 members to Parliament, besides the 16 returned by
+Westminster, Southwark, Marylebone, Tower Hamlets, Finsbury, Lambeth,
+Chelsea, and Greenwich.
+
+In 1829, the old mode of protection by _Watchmen_ was abolished in all
+parts of the metropolis except the city, and a new _Police Force_
+established by Act of Parliament.  This has been a highly successful and
+beneficial improvement.  The new police is under the management of
+commissioners, who are in direct communication with the Secretary of
+State for the Home Department; under the commissioners are
+superintendents, inspectors, sergeants, and constables.  The district
+under their care includes the whole metropolis and environs, with the
+exception of the city, grouped into 21 divisions, each denoted by a
+letter.  The constables wear a blue uniform, and are on duty at all times
+of the day and night.  Three-fourths of the expenses are paid out of the
+parish rates, but limited to an assessment of 8d. per pound on the
+rental; the remainder is contributed from the public purse.  The
+corporation have since established a Police Force for the city on the
+model of that above mentioned.  In addition to two Police Offices for the
+city, at the Mansion House and Guildhall, there are eleven for the
+remaining parts of the metropolis,—viz., Bow Street, Clerkenwell, Great
+Marlborough Street, Thames, Worship Street, Southwark, Marylebone,
+Westminster, Lambeth, Greenwich and Woolwich, and Hammersmith and
+Wandsworth.  The Thames Police have a peculiar jurisdiction over the
+river.  In 1836, a horse patrol was added to the Bow Street
+establishment, consisting of inspectors and patrols, whose sphere of
+action is the less frequented roads around the metropolis.  With all
+these means of preserving the peace and preventing crime, the metropolis
+is now one of the most orderly cities in the world; and provided
+strangers do not seek the haunts of vice, but pursue their way steadily,
+they run little or no risk of molestation.  The number of metropolitan
+police in 1872 was about 9,000; of city police, 700—including, in both
+cases, superintendents, inspectors, &c., &c.  The commissioner of
+metropolitan police is Lieutenant-Colonel E. Y. W. Henderson, C.B., 4
+Whitehall Place, S.W.; the commissioner of city police is Colonel James
+Fraser, C.B., 26 Old Jewry, E.C.
+
+The _Drainage_ of London was a matter barely understood at all, and in no
+wholesome sense practised, till some time after the Board of Works was
+formed, in 1855, when their best efforts to check a rapidly growing
+evil—viz., the casting of London’s poisonous sewage into the Thames at
+our very doors—were called into play.  The estimated cost of one of the
+most colossal schemes of modern times was, at its outset, put down at
+something over three millions; and when the vast plan for main drainage
+was commenced, in 1859, a sanitary revolution began.  A far greater sum,
+however, must be expended ere the idea is wholly carried out.  It is
+obviously out of our power, in our limited space, to do anything more
+than give the reader a mere rough notion of the good to be done and the
+difficulties to be overcome.  The plan was to construct some 70 odd miles
+of gigantic sewers on either side of the Thames.  The north side of the
+river has three different lines of sewers, which meet at the river Lea,
+and thereafter go along, in one huge embankment, to Barking Creek, on the
+Thames, 14 miles below London Bridge.  With certain differences, the
+sewage of the south side of the Thames is amenable to the same kind of
+treatment.  By some returns, furnished in June, 1870, by the engineer of
+the Metropolitan Board of Works, it appears that the average daily
+quantity of sewage pumped into the river Thames at Crossness was 170,934
+cubic metres, and at Barking 152,808 cubic metres—equivalent to about as
+many tons by weight.  That quantity, of course, will every year, as
+London grows, increase.  As the sewers on the north side of the river get
+more near to the sea, they can be seen.  The south side sewers are nearly
+all out of sight.  As the tide flows, the filth of London, by their
+means, is poured into the water.  As it ebbs, the sewage is carried out
+to sea.  Powerful steam-engines, for pumping up sewage from low levels,
+are used as they are required.  The clerk of the Metropolitan Board of
+Works, who may be seen at Spring Gardens, Charing Cross, will, we should
+fancy, oblige any gentleman with engineering proclivities with an order
+to view what has already been accomplished by marvellous ability and
+enterprise,—whose results can in no fair sense gain anything like fair
+appreciation without personal inspection.
+
+London is _Lighted_ by sundry joint-stock gas companies; the parishes
+contract with them for street lights, and individuals for the house and
+shop lights.  Gas was first introduced into London, in Golden Lane, in
+1807; in Pall Mall in 1809; and generally through London in 1814.  There
+are something like 2,500 miles of gas-pipes in and about London.
+
+The first of the public _Baths_ and _Wash-houses_ was established near
+the London Docks in 1844.  The number, of course, has vastly increased.
+Many of them are maintained by the parish authorities, and are very
+cheap.
+
+The first public _Drinking Fountain_ in London was erected, near St.
+Sepulchre’s Church, close to Newgate, in 1859.  There are now nearly 200
+such fountains and troughs for animals in London.
+
+In 1833, by an agreement among the Fire Insurance offices, there was
+established a regular fire-suppression police, or _Fire Brigade_,
+consisting of a superintendent, foremen, engineers, sub-engineers, and
+firemen; numerous engines are in constant readiness at fifty-four
+different stations.  (The brigade is now placed under public control,
+supported by a house-rate.)  The fires in London exceed 1,500 annually,
+on an average.
+
+Mansion House.—This is a tall square mass of dark stone building, nearly
+opposite the Bank and the Royal Exchange, with a portico of six
+Corinthian columns in front, resting on a low rustic basement.  This
+edifice, which extends a considerable depth behind, is the official
+residence of the Lord Mayor of London, provided by the city corporation.
+Besides an extensive suite of domestic apartments, it contains a number
+of state-rooms, in which company is received and entertained.  The chief
+of these rooms are the Egyptian hall and the ball-room, which have a
+grand appearance.  Some fine sculptures by British artists—the best of
+which are Foley’s ‘Caractacus and Egeria,’ and Bailey’s ‘Genius and the
+Morning Star’—have recently been added; the corporation having voted a
+sum of money for this purpose.  The lord mayor’s annual stipend is £5,997
+8s. 4d., with certain allowances, we believe, not stated; and in the
+Mansion House he has the use of a superb collection of plate: he is
+likewise allowed the use of a state-coach, &c.  Every lord mayor,
+however, expends more than this sum during his year of office in grand
+banquets.
+
+Guildhall.—This may be regarded as the _Town-hall_, or what the French
+would call the _Hotel de Ville_, of London; where are held meetings of
+the livery to elect members of parliament, lord mayor, sheriffs, and
+others, and where the grandest civic entertainments are given.  It is
+situated at the end of King Street, Cheapside.  The building is old, but
+received a new front, in a strange kind of Gothic, in 1789.  The interior
+of the grand hall is 153 feet long, 48 feet broad, and 55 feet high; it
+is one of the largest rooms in London, and can accommodate about 3,500
+persons at dinner.  Two clumsy colossal figures, called Gog and Magog,
+the history of which has never clearly been made out, are placed at the
+west end of the hall.  Around it are some fine marble monuments to Lord
+Mayor Beckford, Lord Nelson, the Duke of Wellington, the Earl of Chatham,
+and his son, William Pitt.  Note the stained glass with the armorial
+bearings of the twelve great city companies; also observe, in the passage
+leading to the common-council chamber, the portrait of General Sir W. F.
+Williams, the heroic defender of Kars in 1855.  At the top of the council
+chamber will be seen Chantrey’s statue of George III.; a picture of the
+siege of Gibraltar, by Copley; and Northcote’s ‘Wat Tyler slain by Lord
+Mayor Walworth,’ with other pictures and portraits.  Near by are several
+offices for corporate and law courts.  The _Library_ contains many
+valuable antiquities, books, coins, pottery, &c., and some interesting
+autographs.  Note that of Shakespere, on a deed of purchase of a house in
+Blackfriars.  The _Crypt_ is a curious underground vault.  On Lord
+Mayor’s Day the grand dinner usually costs about £2,200.  On the 18th
+June, 1814, when the Allied Sovereigns dined here, the gold plate was
+valued at £200,000.
+
+The Monument.—This may be regarded as a corporate structure, although it
+answers no useful purpose.  It is a fluted Doric column, situated in a
+small space of ground adjoining the southern extremity of King William
+Street, on the descent to Lower Thames Street.  It was begun in 1671, and
+finished in 1677, at a cost of about £14,500, in commemoration of the
+Great Fire of London, which began at the distance of 202 feet eastward
+from the spot, in 1666; and its height has on that account (so we are
+told) been made 202 feet.  It is a handsome column, with a gilt finial
+intended to represent flames of fire.  Visitors are allowed to ascend by
+a winding stair of 345 steps to the top; fee, 3d.  No better place can be
+chosen from which to view the river, the shipping, and the city
+generally.
+
+The Royal Exchange.—This is a handsome quadrangular building on the north
+side of Cornhill, having in the centre an open court with colonnades.
+The chief entrance faces an open paved space on the west, on which is
+placed an equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington.  The building was
+erected from plans by Mr. Tite, and was opened in 1844; it occupies the
+site of the former Exchange, which was accidentally destroyed by fire.
+The pediment contains sculptures by Sir R. Westmacott, R.A.  The lower
+part of the exterior is laid out as shops, which greatly injure the
+architectural effect; the upper rooms are occupied as public offices, one
+of which is _Lloyd’s_, or, more properly, _Lloyd’s Subscription Rooms_,
+where merchants, shipowners, shippers, and underwriters congregate.  A
+statue of the Queen is in the centre of the quadrangular area.  The busy
+time on ’Change is from 3 till 4 o’clock, Tuesday and Friday being the
+principal days.
+
+
+
+
+THE TEMPLE; INNS OF COURT; COURTS OF JUSTICE; PRISONS.
+
+
+The buildings noticed in this section belong partly to the crown, partly
+to the corporation of London, and partly to other bodies.
+
+The Temple.—Contiguous to the south side of Fleet Street is a most
+extensive series of buildings, comprising several squares and rows,
+called the _Temple_; belonging to the members of two societies, the
+_Inner_ and _Middle Temple_, consisting of benchers, barristers, and
+students.  This famous old place, taken in its completeness, was, in
+1184, the metropolitan residence of the Knights Templars, who held it
+until their downfall in 1313; soon afterwards it was occupied by students
+of the law; and in 1608 James I. presented the entire group of structures
+to the benchers of the two societies, who have ever since been the
+absolute owners.  The entrance to Inner Temple, from Fleet Street,
+consists of nothing more than a mere gateway; the entrance to Middle
+Temple was designed by Sir Christopher Wren.  _Middle Temple Hall_, 100
+feet long, 42 wide, and 47 high, is considered to have one of the finest
+Elizabethan roofs in London.  A group of chambers, called _Paper
+Buildings_, built near the river, is a good example of revived
+Elizabethan.  A new _Inner Temple Hall_ was formally opened, in 1870, by
+the Princess Louise.  In October, 1861, when the Prince of Wales was
+elected a bencher of the Middle Temple, a new _Library_ was formally
+opened, which had been constructed at a cost of £13,000; it is a
+beautiful ornament to the place, as seen from the river.  The _Temple
+Church_, a few yards only down from Fleet Street, is one of the most
+interesting churches in London.  All the main parts of the structure are
+as old as the time of the Knights Templars; but the munificent sum of
+£70,000 was spent, about twenty years ago, in restoring and adorning it.
+There are two portions, the _Round Church_ and the _Choir_, the one
+nearly 700 years old, and the other more than 600.  The monumental
+effigies, the original sculptured heads in the Round Church, the
+triforium, and the fittings of the Choir, are all worthy of attention.
+The north side of the church has recently been laid open by the removal
+of adjoining buildings; and in their place some handsome chambers are
+erected.  Hard by, in the churchyard, is the grave of Oliver Goldsmith,
+who died in chambers (since pulled down) in Brick Court.  The Sunday
+services are very fine, and always attract many strangers.  The _Temple
+Gardens_, fronting the river, are probably the best in the city.
+
+_Lincoln’s Inn_ was once the property of the De Lacie, Earl of Lincoln.
+It became an Inn of Court in 1310.  The fine new hall—worth seeing—was
+opened in 1845.  The Chapel was built in 1621–3, by Inigo Jones.  He also
+laid out the large garden in Lincoln’s Inn Fields, close by, in 1620.
+Lord William Russell was beheaded here in 1683.  In Lincoln’s Inn are the
+Chancery and Equity Courts.
+
+_Graves Inn_, nearly opposite the north end of Chancery Lane, once
+belonged to the Lords Gray of Wilton.  It was founded in 1357.  Most of
+its buildings—except its hall, with black oak roof—are of comparatively
+modern date.  In Gray’s Inn lived the great Lord Bacon, a tree planted by
+whom, in the quaint old garden of the Inn, can yet be seen propped up by
+iron stays.  Charles the First, when Prince Charles, was an honorary
+member of Gray’s Inn, and Bradshaw, who tried him, was one of its
+benchers.
+
+_Sergeant’s Inn_, Chancery Lane, is what its name denotes—the Inn of the
+sergeants-at-law.  _Sergeants Inn_, Fleet Street, is let out in chambers
+to barristers, solicitors, and the general public.  The last remark
+applies to the other small Inns of Chancery in and about Holborn and
+Fleet Street.
+
+Till the new _Law_ Courts are erected in Central Strand, London has no
+Courts of Law well built or convenient.  The _Westminster Courts_ are
+little better than wooden sheds.  So are the _Lincoln’s Inn Courts_.  But
+they still are worth a visit.  At the _Old Bailey_, near Newgate, is the
+_Central Criminal Court_, for the trial of prisoners accused of crimes
+committed within ten miles of St. Paul’s.  Nominally, this court is free;
+but practically, a small _douceur_ is always extorted by the ushers for a
+place.  In the other courts this practice of ‘tipping’ is less common.
+The _Bankruptcy Court_, in Basinghall Street, the _Clerkenwell Sessions
+House_, the _County Courts_, and the _Police Courts_, are other
+establishments connected with the administration of justice; but the
+business of the first will shortly be transferred westward.
+
+The Record Office.—Connected in some degree with the Courts of Law and
+Equity, is the _New Record Office_, Fetter Lane, where is deposited a
+vast body of unprinted documents belonging to the state, of priceless
+value, including the far-famed _Doomsday Book_; they having been
+previously scattered in various buildings about the metropolis.  Apply to
+the deputy-keeper for an order to inspect any but state papers of later
+date than 1688, for which the Home Secretary’s special order is
+requisite.
+
+Prisons.—_Newgate_, the chief criminal prison for the city and county, in
+the Old Bailey, was a prison in the _new gate_ of the city as early as
+1218.  Two centuries after it was re-built, and in the Great Fire (1666)
+burnt down.  It was re-constructed in 1778–80; its interior burnt in the
+Gordon ‘No Popery’ riots in 1780; and its interior again re-constructed
+in 1857.  Debtors are no longer confined here; the few who come under the
+new law—which has almost abolished imprisonment for debt—being sent to
+_Holloway Prison_ under the new law.  Till public executions were
+abolished, criminals came out for execution in the middle of the Old
+Bailey, through the small iron door over which is suspended a grim
+festoon of fetters.  They are now hanged privately inside the jail.  The
+condemned cells are on the north-east side of Newgate.  To view the
+prison, apply to the sheriff or the lord mayor.  The chief debtors’
+prison _was_ the _Queen’s Bench_, in Southwark.  It is now a _Military
+Prison_.  The _City Prison_, Holloway, a castellated structure, was built
+in 1855, as a substitute for other and overcrowded jails in London.
+Other prisons are the _House of Correction_, Cold Bath Fields, capable of
+holding 1,200 prisoners; the _House of Correction_, at Wandsworth; the
+_House of Correction_, Westminster; _Millbank Penitentiary_, near the
+Middlesex end of Vauxhall Bridge, which could, if wanted, hold 1,200
+prisoners, and cost £500,000; _Pentonville Model Prison_; _Female
+Prison_, Brixton; _Surrey County Jail_, Horsemonger Lane, on the top of
+which the infamous Mannings were hanged in 1849; and the _House of
+Detention_, Clerkenwell, which the Fenians tried to blow up.  The last
+prison is for persons not convicted.
+
+
+
+
+BANKS; INSURANCE OFFICES; STOCK EXCHANGE; CITY COMPANIES.
+
+
+Bank of England.—This large establishment is situated north of the Royal
+Exchange; the narrow thoroughfare between being _Threadneedle Street_, in
+which is the principal front.  This is unquestionably the greatest bank
+in the world.  The present structure was mostly the work of Sir John
+Soane, at various periods between 1788 and 1829.  About 1,000 clerks,
+messengers, &c., are employed here, at salaries varying from £50 to
+£1,200 per annum.  The buildings of the Bank are low, but remarkable in
+appearance.  In the centre is the principal entrance, which conducts to
+an inner open court, and thence to the main building.  The Dividend and
+Transfer Offices, with which fund-holders are most concerned, lie in the
+eastern part of the building.  Thus far the place is freely open to
+visitors.  The whole buildings and courts include an area of about eight
+acres.  The teller’s room shews a scene of great activity—clerks counting
+and weighing gold and silver, porters going to and fro, and crowds of
+tradesmen and others negotiating business at the counters.  The other and
+more private parts of the Bank can be seen only by an order from a
+director.  The most interesting departments are the bullion-office, in a
+vaulted chamber beneath—where there commonly are some 14 to 17 millions
+in bullion, as a reserve—entering from one of the many open courts; the
+treasury; the apartments in which the notes of the Bank are printed; and
+the weighing-office, where coin-balances of exquisite construction are
+used.  In the printing department there is a large steam-engine, which
+moves printing-machines, plate-presses, and other mechanism—the whole
+being in beautiful order, and forming a very interesting sight.  The Bank
+is guarded at night by its own watchmen, and a detachment of Foot Guards.
+
+Joint-Stock and Private Banks.—Some of the handsomest modern buildings in
+London are those belonging to the Banking Companies.  The _London and
+Westminster_, the _London Joint-Stock_, the _Union_, the _City_, the
+_Australian_, and numerous other Companies, have two or more
+establishments each, some as many as half-a-dozen—the head bank always
+being in the busy centre of trade, the ‘City.’  Some of these are elegant
+structures; and all are planned with great skill in reference to interior
+arrangements.  The private bankers, such as Glyn, Barclays, Lubbocks,
+Coutts, &c., rival the companies in the architectural character of their
+banks; and some of their establishments, such as Child’s, near Temple
+Bar, are curious old places.  Many have lately been rebuilt in a
+substantial and handsome style.
+
+Insurance Offices.—These form another extensive group, which has conduced
+much to the improved street appearance of modern London.  All the best
+conducted Life and Fire Insurance Companies are wealthy; and they have
+devoted part of their wealth to the construction of commodious and often
+elegant offices.  The _County_, the _Royal Exchange_, the _Sun_, the
+_Phœnix_, the _Amicable_, the _Equitable_, the _Imperial_, are among the
+most noted of these insurance offices.  The chief buildings are within a
+small circle, of which the Royal Exchange is the centre; another group is
+about Fleet Street and Blackfriars; and a western group lies in and near
+the Regent Street line.
+
+Stock Exchange.—This building, of which scarcely anything can be seen on
+the outside, lies up a paved passage called Capel Court, in Bartholomew
+Lane, on the east side of the Bank of England.  Dealers and brokers in
+the public funds, and in all kinds of joint-stock shares and debentures,
+meet and transact business here.  They buy and sell, not only for
+themselves, but for the public generally; and the amount of business
+transacted every day is enormous.  The establishment is maintained by
+about 900 members, who pay £10 a-year each.  They endeavour to enforce
+strict honesty in each other’s dealings; but they sedulously refuse to
+allow a stranger even to pass the threshold of their Temple of Wealth.
+
+Various Commercial Buildings.—A stranger has only to look at a detailed
+map or a directory, to see how numerous are the buildings, especially in
+the city, applied in various ways to commerce and trading on a large
+scale.  The _Trinity House_ on _Tower Hill_; the chambers of the building
+that was once the _South Sea House_, near Leadenhall Street; those of the
+large but irregular structure called _Gresham House_, in Bishopsgate
+Street—are all worthy of a glance, some for their architectural
+character, and all for the importance of the work transacted in them.
+The _East India House_, in Leadenhall Street, has been pulled down;
+commercial chambers in great number, and let at enormous rentals, have
+been built on the site.
+
+City Companies.—In nothing is the past history of the metropolis, the
+memory of _Old_ London, kept alive in a more remarkable way than by the
+_City Companies_, or _Trading Guilds_, which are still very numerous.
+All were established with a good purpose, and all rendered service in
+their day; but at the present time few have any important duties to
+fulfil.  The age for such things is nearly past; but the companies have
+revenues which none but themselves can touch; and out of these revenues
+many excellent charities are supported.  Several of the companies have
+halls of great architectural beauty, or curious on account of their
+antiquity.  Twelve, from their wealth and importance, are called the
+_Great_ Companies; and all of these have halls worthy of note.  They are
+the _Mercers’_, _Drapers’_, _Fishmongers’_, _Goldsmiths’_, _Skinners’_,
+_Merchant Taylors’_, _Haberdashers’_, _Salters’_, _Ironmongers’_,
+_Vintners’_, _Grocers’_, and _Clothworkers’_.  Every year banquets are
+given in the halls of these great companies—often under such
+circumstances as to give political importance to them.  _Mercers’ Hall_,
+on the north side of Cheapside, has a richly ornamental entrance.
+_Grocers’ Hall_, in the Poultry, is remarkable rather for the age of the
+company (more than 500 years) than for the beauty of the building; it is
+interesting to note that the Long Parliament was entertained at
+city-dinners in this hall.  _Drapers’ Hall_, in Throgmorton Street, built
+in 1667, replaced a structure which had belonged to Thomas Cromwell, Earl
+of Essex, in the time of Henry VIII., and which was destroyed by the
+Great Fire.  _Fishmongers’ Hall_, the most majestic of the whole, stands
+at the northern end of London Bridge, on the west side; it was built in
+1831, as part of the improvements consequent on the opening of New London
+Bridge, on a site that had been occupied by an older hall since the time
+of the Great Fire.  _Goldsmiths’ Hall_, just behind the General
+Post-Office, is too closely hemmed in with other buildings to be seen
+well; it is one of Mr. Hardwick’s best productions, and was finished by
+him in 1835, on the site of an older hall.  _Skinners’ Hall_, Dowgate
+Hill, was built (like so many others of the city halls) just after the
+Great Fire in 1666; but was newly fronted in 1808.  _Merchant Taylors’
+Hall_, Threadneedle Street, is the largest of the city halls.  It was
+rebuilt after the Great Fire, and has long been celebrated for the
+political banquets occasionally given there—this being considered the
+leading Tory Company, and the Fishmongers’ the leading Whig Company.
+_Haberdashers’ Hall_, near Goldsmiths’ Hall, is quite modern; the present
+building having been constructed in 1855.  _Salters’ Hall_, St. Swithen’s
+Lane, was rebuilt in 1827.  _Ironmongers’ Hall_, Fenchurch Street, was
+erected in 1748, on the site of an older structure; the banqueting-room
+was remodelled a few years ago with great richness.  In 1861 this company
+held an _Exhibition of Art_, notable for the rarity and beauty of the
+objects collected; it was the first thing of the kind organized among
+these companies, and was in all respects creditable to those who planned
+and managed it.  _Vintners’ Hall_, Upper Thames Street, is small and
+unpretentious.  _Clothworkers’ Hall_, Mincing Lane, is an elegant Italian
+Renaissance edifice, erected in 1858, from the designs of Mr. Angell.
+
+Among the minor halls are the _Apothecaries’_, Blackfriars;
+_Stationers’_, behind Ludgate Hill; _Armourers’_, Coleman Street; _Barber
+Surgeons’_, Monkwell Street, (which contains some fine paintings;)
+_Weavers’_, Basinghall Street; _Saddlers’_, Cheapside; and _Paper
+Stainers’_, Little Trinity Lane.  At the last-named hall an interesting
+exhibition of specimens of decorative painting was held in 1864.  The
+city companies are about eighty altogether.  Some, which tell most
+singularly of past times, and of the difference between the past and the
+present, are the _Cooks’_, the _Bowyers’_, the _Fletchers’_, the
+_Woolmen’s_, the _Scriveners’_, the _Broderers’_, the _Horners’_, the
+_Loriners’_, the _Spectacle Makers’_, the _Felt Makers’_, the _Patten
+Makers’_, the _Parish Clerks’_, and the _Fan Makers’_ companies.  All
+these, except the _Spectacle Makers’_ and the _Parish Clerks’_, have now
+no halls.  Eight others, formerly existing, have become extinct.  The
+only three which are actually trading companies at the present day are
+the _Goldsmiths’_, the _Apothecaries’_, and the _Stationers’_.  The
+Goldsmiths’ company assay all the gold and silver plate manufactured in
+the metropolis, stamp it with the ‘Hall-mark,’ and collect the excise
+duty upon it for the Government; the Apothecaries’ sell medicines, and
+have a certain jurisdiction in relation to medical practice; the
+Stationers’ publish almanacs, and register all copyright books.
+
+
+
+
+THE RIVER; DOCKS; THAMES TUNNEL; BRIDGES; PIERS.
+
+
+We shall next describe certain features connected with traffic _on_,
+_under_, and _over_ the Thames.
+
+The River and its Shipping.—The Thames stream rises in the interior of
+the country, at the distance of 138 miles above London, and enters the
+sea on the east coast about sixty miles below it.  It comes flowing
+between low, fertile, and village-clad banks, out of a richly ornamented
+country on the west; and, arriving at the outmost suburbs of the
+metropolis, it pursues a winding course, between banks thickly lined with
+dwelling-houses, warehouses, manufactories, and wharfs, for a space of
+several miles, its breadth being here from an eighth to a-third of a
+mile.  The tides affect it for fifteen or sixteen miles above the city;
+but the salt water comes no farther than Gravesend, or perhaps
+Greenhithe.  However, such is the volume and depth of water, that vessels
+of great magnitude can sail or steam up to London.  Most unfortunately,
+the beauty of this noble stream is much hidden from the spectator, there
+being very few quays or promenades along its banks.  With the exception
+of the summit of St. Paul’s or the Monument, and the Custom House quay,
+the only good points for viewing the river are the bridges, which cross
+it at convenient distances, and by their length convey an accurate idea
+of the breadth of the channel.  Formerly there were many light and
+fanciful boats for hire on the Thames; but these are now greatly
+superseded by small steamers, which convey crowds of passengers up and
+down the river.
+
+The part of the river between London Bridge and Blackwall, an interval of
+several miles, constitutes the _Port_; and here are constantly seen lying
+at anchor great numbers of vessels.  The portion immediately below the
+bridge is called the _Pool_, where coal-ships are usually ranged in great
+number.  It is curious to watch, while passing up and down the river, the
+way in which coals are transferred, by labourers called _coal-whippers_,
+from the ships into barges, in which they are conveyed to the wharfs of
+the several coal-merchants.  At wharfs between the Custom House and the
+bridge lie numerous steam-vessels which ply to Greenwich, Woolwich,
+Gravesend, Margate, and other places of resort down the Thames; also
+steamers for continental ports.  London, as has already been observed,
+possesses no line of quays on the river.  The trade with the ships is
+carried on at wharfs jutting upon the water.  The Thames is placed under
+strict police regulations with respect to trade; certain places being
+assigned to different classes of vessels, including those which arrive
+from the Tyne, Wear, and Tees with coal, and all coasters.  The trade
+connected with the Port is mostly carried on in the closely built part of
+the metropolis adjacent to the Thames.  Almost the whole of this district
+consists of narrow streets, environed by warehouses and offices, making
+no external show, but in which an incalculable amount of trade is
+transacted.
+
+                   [Picture: Entrance West India Docks]
+
+The Docks.—As a relief to the river, and for other reasons, there are
+several very large _Docks_.  The lowest or most eastern are the _Victoria
+Docks_, in Essex, just beyond the river Lea.  They cover an area of 200
+acres, and have been the means of introducing many improvements in the
+accommodation of shipping.  The _hydraulic lift_ at these docks, for
+raising and supporting ships during repair, is well worth looking at.
+Next are the _East India Docks_, constructed in 1806; they consist of two
+docks and a basin, covering 32 acres.  Near these are the _West India
+Docks_, the entrances to which are at Blackwall and Limehouse; in these
+large _depôts_ of shipping connected with the West India and other trade
+may at all times be seen some hundreds of vessels, loading or unloading
+in connection with the warehouses around.  The largest of these docks is
+24 feet deep, 510 feet long, and 498 wide; and, with a basin, they cover
+nearly 300 acres.  Farther up the river, and near the Tower, in the
+district called Wapping, are the _London Docks_ and _St. Katharine’s
+Docks_.  The London Docks consist of one enclosure to the extent of 20
+acres, another of smaller dimensions, a basin, and three entrances from
+the river.  These are surrounded by warehouses for the reception of
+bonded goods, and beneath the warehouses are vaults for bonded liquors.
+The principal warehouse for the storing of tobacco in bond till it is
+purchased and the duties paid, is situated close beside a special dock
+called the Tobacco Dock.  The Tobacco Warehouse occupies no less than
+five acres of ground, and has accommodation for 24,000 hogsheads of
+tobacco.  The sight of this extraordinary warehouse, and of the
+Wine-Vaults, is not soon to be forgotten.  The vaults are arched with
+brick, and extend east and west to a great distance, with diverging lines
+also of great length, the whole being like the streets of an underground
+town.  Along the sides are ranged casks of wine to an amount apparently
+without limit.  There is accommodation for 65,000 pipes.  These cellars
+being dark, all who enter and go through them carry lights.  Admission
+may be had by procuring an order from a wine-merchant to taste and
+examine any pipes he may have in bond: a cooper accompanies the visitor
+to pierce the casks.  Besides this large vault, which principally
+contains port and sherry, there are other vaults for French wines, &c.
+_St. Katharine’s Docks_, between the Tower and the London Docks, were
+formed in 1828, on a site which required the removal of more than 1,200
+houses and 13,000 inhabitants; the earth obtained by the excavation was
+employed in raising the site for some of the new streets and squares of
+Pimlico.  There are twelve acres of water area, and about as much of
+quays and warehouses.  On the south of the Thames are the _Commercial_
+and the _Grand Surrey Docks_, the great centre of the timber trade.  The
+various docks are the property of joint-stock companies, who receive
+rents and dues of various kinds for their use.
+
+Thames Tunnel.—With the view of effecting a ready communication for
+wagons and other carriages, and foot-passengers, between the Surrey and
+Middlesex sides of the river, at a point where, from the constant passage
+of shipping, it would be inconvenient to rear a bridge, a _tunnel_ or
+sub-river passage was designed by a joint-stock company.  The idea of
+tunnelling under the river, by the way, was not a novel one.  In 1802 a
+company was got up with a similar notion, Trevethick, the inventor of the
+high-pressure engine, being its engineer.  It came to nought; and in 1825
+Mr. (afterwards Sir) Marc Isambard Brunel began his tunnel, at a point
+about two miles below London Bridge, entering on the southern shore at
+Rotherhithe, and issuing at Wapping on the other.  The water broke in in
+1827, and again in 1828, when six men perished.  After all the funds were
+exhausted, and the Government had advanced no less than £246,000 by way
+of loan, the work, after many delays, was opened in 1843.  The total,
+cost was £468,000.  The tunnel consisted of two archways, 1,300 feet
+long, the thickness of the earth being about 15 feet between the crown of
+the tunnel and the river’s bed.  As a speculation—toll 1d.—it never paid.
+The descent was by a deep, dirty staircase; and only one arch was open
+for foot-passengers.  But now that the East London Railway Company have
+purchased it, a wholesome change has come.  Some 40 trains are now
+running backwards and forwards through it, from Wapping to Rotherhithe,
+and thence to Deptford and New Cross, and _vice versâ_.  And so, at last,
+the once well-nigh useless scheme, which wore out Brunel’s heart, has
+been, some twenty-two years after his death, made of great service to
+that part of London.
+
+The Tower Subway.—In the neighbourhood of the Tunnel a subway has been
+formed, consisting of an iron tube, 7 feet in diameter, laid below the
+bed of the Thames.  It belongs to a Limited Liability Company.  It was
+commenced in February, 1869, and opened for tramway traffic on 12th
+April, 1870.  Being a losing speculation, the tramway cars ceased to run
+on 7th December, 1870; but it was opened for foot-passengers on the 24th
+of that month, and it is the intention of the Company to continue it only
+as such.  It is reached at each end by a spiral staircase of 96 steps.
+Its whole length is 1225 feet.  A charge of ½d. is made for each person
+passing through this Tunnel.  The Tunnel is well lighted up with gas, and
+the average heat by the thermometer is 65 degrees.
+
+                    [Picture: Albert Bridge, Chelsea]
+
+Bridges.—The communication between the northern and southern sections of
+the metropolis is maintained by means of various bridges.  Excluding
+_Albert Suspension Bridge_, (between Cadogan Pier, Chelsea, and Albert
+Road, leading into Battersea Park,) commenced in 1865, and not yet open,
+the number is 14—as follow: 1.  _London Bridge_, built by Rennie, and
+opened in 1831; it is 928 feet long, and 54 wide; it has 5 arches, of
+which the centre is 152 feet span, and cost, with the approaches,
+£2,000,000.  This is regarded as one of the finest granite bridges in the
+world.  2.  _South-Eastern Railway Bridge_, to connect the London Bridge
+Station with a new terminus in Cannon Street; this bridge, having five
+lines of railway, is midway between London Bridge and the one next to be
+named.  3.  _Southwark Bridge_, by Rennie, was opened in 1819; it is of
+iron, 708 feet long, with three magnificent arches, the centre one of 402
+feet span; it was a toll bridge, and cost £800,000.  In 1865, it was made
+free, and remains so, by arrangement between the Company and the
+Corporation.  4.  _Blackfriars Railway Bridge_, with four lines of rail,
+connects the Metropolitan Railway north of the Thames with the Chatham
+and Dover Railway on the south.  [Picture: Blackfriars Bridge] 5.  _Old
+Blackfriars Bridge_, by Mylne, was opened in 1769; it consisted of 19
+arches, and was 995 feet long.  The foundations, however, having become
+decayed, the bridge was pulled down, and a magnificent new one, by Mr.
+Cubitt, built its place.  A wooden bridge of remarkable construction,
+with a foot-way _over_ the carriage-way, did duty for traffic till the
+opening of Mr. Cubitt’s present structure.  This was formally done by the
+Queen in person, November 6, 1869.  The entire width of the new bridge is
+75 feet, the foot-paths being 15 feet each, with a fine road between
+them, 45 feet in breadth from kerb to kerb.  The entire length of the
+bridge, including approaches, is 1,272 feet, and its centre arch has a
+span of 185 feet in the clear.  It has four piers.  All its iron (except
+the ornamental portion, which is of cast metal) is hammered.  With its
+handsome polished red granite piers, Portland stone capitals, and florid
+Venetian Gothic ornamentation, light-looking yet massive iron arches,
+spandrils, and parapets, and its general _tout ensemble_, new Blackfriars
+is, bearing all things in mind, one of the cheapest permanent bridges
+thrown across the Thames.  Its total cost is under £400,000.  6.
+_Waterloo Bridge_, one of the most magnificent in the world, was built by
+Rennie, and was opened in 1817; it is flat from end to end, 1,380 feet
+long, or 2,456 with the approaches; it consists of nine beautiful arches
+of 120 feet span, and cost £1,000,000; a toll of one halfpenny per
+passenger yields a very poor return on this outlay.  7.  _Hungerford
+Suspension Bridge_ has been replaced by a fine new bridge, partly for
+foot-passengers, and partly for the Charing Cross extension of the
+South-Eastern Railway.  8.  _Old Westminster Bridge_, opened in 1750, is
+now all removed, to make way for a beautiful new bridge of iron, with
+granite piers, built by Mr. Page, opened for traffic in 1862.  It is
+about 1,160 feet long by 85 feet wide.  9.  _Lambeth Bridge_, a wire-rope
+suspension bridge of economical construction, from Westminster to near
+Lambeth Church, was opened in 1862.  10.  _Vauxhall Bridge_, built by
+Walker, was opened in 1816; it is of iron, 798 feet long, and consists of
+nine equal arches.  11.  _Pimlico Railway Bridge_, from Pimlico to the
+commencement of Battersea Park, connects the Victoria Station with the
+Brighton and other railways.  12.  _Chelsea Suspension Bridge_, very near
+the bridge last named, gives easy access from Chelsea to Battersea, and
+is a light and elegant structure.  13.  _Battersea Bridge_ is an old
+wooden structure, unsightly in appearance, inconvenient to passengers
+over it, and still more so to steamboats under it.  14.  _West London
+Extension Railway Bridge_, opened in 1863, crosses the Thames from a
+point a little above Cremorne Gardens to Battersea town; it is a link to
+connect various railways on the north of the river with others on the
+south.  _Putney Bridge_, _Hammersmith Suspension Bridge_, _Barnes Railway
+Bridge_, and _Kew Bridge_, may or may not be included in this series,
+according to the acceptation of the indefinite word ‘Metropolis.’
+
+Steam-boat Piers.—If you wish to go eastward of London Bridge, on the
+north side of the river, you will find steam-boats at London Bridge to
+take you to Thames Tunnel Pier, Limehouse, Blackwall, and North Woolwich.
+On the south side, at the Surrey end of London Bridge, you can take boat
+for Rotherhithe, Commercial Docks, Greenwich, Charlton, and Woolwich.  If
+you wish to go westward from London Bridge, on the north side, you can
+take boat thence for the following piers:—Bridge, Paul’s Wharf, Temple
+Stairs, Waterloo Bridge, Hungerford Bridge, Westminster Bridge, Millbank,
+Pimlico, Thames Bank, Chelsea, and Battersea; and on the south side, at
+Westminster Bridge, Lambeth Stairs, Vauxhall, Battersea Park, Wandsworth,
+Putney, Hammersmith Bridge, and Kew.  The steamers make an amazing number
+of trips each way daily, between these several piers, at intervals
+varying with the season, and at fares ranging from one penny to
+fourpence.  For example, the fare by the _Citizen_ boats from London
+Bridge to Westminster is 1d.; to Pimlico, 2d.; Chelsea and Battersea, 3d.
+If you wish to go _quickly_ from Westminster Bridge to London Bridge, you
+will avoid delays at piers by getting one of the penny boats which run
+every ten minutes from Westminster to London Bridge, only calling at
+Hungerford.  Steamers for Kew, in the summer, run about every half-hour
+from London Bridge, calling at intermediate up-river piers—return ticket,
+1s.  From Cadogan Pier, Chelsea, you can go to Kew for 4d.  And on
+Sundays and Mondays you can go up as far as Richmond, if the tide allow,
+at half-past 10 a.m. from Hungerford—return ticket, about 1s. 6d.  For
+more distant journeys, such as to Erith, Gravesend, Sheerness, Southend,
+&c., by excursion steam-boats.  To Gravesend and back, the fare is 1s.
+6d.; Sheerness and Southend and back, 2s. 6d.  Boats generally leave
+Hungerford Bridge for Gravesend and Erith every half-hour up to 12, and
+leave London Bridge at 2 and half-past 4 p.m.; they leave Hungerford
+Bridge for Southend and Sheerness at various times from half-past 8,
+calling at London Bridge, returning in the afternoon or early evening.
+
+                     [Picture: The Thames Embankment]
+
+The Thames Embankment is one of the noblest works in the metropolis.  As
+long ago as 1666 Sir Christopher Wren advocated such a scheme.  Till Mr.
+Bazalgette, the engineer to the Metropolitan Board of Works, (who, by the
+way, planned the main drainage,) came forward with his plans, there had
+been scores of others, all over-costly and few practicable.  The work was
+virtually begun in 1862.  Both south and north embankments are now open.
+The former (or _Albert Embankment_) was opened the entire length, from
+Westminster Bridge to Vauxhall, on the 1st September, 1869; the latter,
+(or _Victoria Embankment_,) from Westminster Bridge to Blackfriars, in
+the middle of July, 1870.  What the ultimate cost will be of both these
+gigantic works it is for us here impossible to tell.  Already the
+metropolitan public hare paid for their new Thames boulevard £1,650,000.
+
+And now—in the case of the northern embankment, for example—let us
+consider what vast difficulties have had to be surmounted.  The words of
+an excellent authority put the matter very concisely as follows:—“The
+river had to be dammed out for some thirty-eight acres—the mud had to be
+dredged out down to the London clay—the granite walls had to be built
+below low-water mark; behind these the low-level sewer had to be
+constructed.  Over this, again, had to come the subway, and behind all
+the District Railway, which runs at an average of about eighteen feet
+below the surface.  It is not known what materials were required for the
+railway; but what was used for the Embankment is known.  It was:—Granite,
+650,000 cubic feet; brickwork, 80,000 cubic yards; concrete, 140,000
+cubic yards; timber, (for cofferdam, &c.,) 500,000 cubic feet; caissons,
+(for ditto,) 2,500 tons; earth filling, 900,000 cubic feet; excavation,
+144,000 cubic feet; York paving, 90,000 superficial feet; broken granite,
+50,000 yards superficial.  The railway works would make these totals
+still more formidable.  London is now the metropolis of engineering
+works, but there is no part of it in which so many and such varied and
+difficult kinds centre as in the Thames Embankment.  A section of it
+would be a study for engineers for all time.”
+
+The public foot-way had been open since July, 1868.  It was for the
+formal opening of the carriage-way that the Prince of Wales, on 13th
+July, 1870, drove from Westminster Bridge to Blackfriars along the
+Northern Embankment’s carriage-way.  This is sixty-four feet wide, and
+the foot-way on the land-side is sixteen feet wide, and that on the
+river-side is twenty feet wide.  Along the river-side are planted rows of
+trees, which in a few years will afford an unbroken line of shade,
+doubtless.  As the railway works were completed sufficiently to admit of
+it, this main roadway has been extended to the Mansion-House, by means of
+a new street—_Queen Victoria Street_—referred to in a former page.  There
+is thus one broad, airy thoroughfare between the Houses of Parliament,
+and the West End, and the heart of the city.
+
+It will be obvious that though so much has been done, much yet remains to
+be accomplished ere the Thames Northern Embankment is regularly
+completed.  The carriage-way, for the present, has only been gravelled
+and macadamized.  The reason is, that in newly-made rotten earth its
+sinking down must be allowed for, for some time, ere it can all be paved,
+like London Bridge, with “granite pitching.”  Four regular approaches
+into the Strand—by way of Villiers, Norfolk, Surrey, and Arundel
+Streets—have been made; and there are three other ways which go from
+Westminster, Whitehall, and Blackfriars; another is in progress from
+Charing Cross.
+
+Starting from the western end, the Metropolitan District Railway has
+already open, along this embankment, five stations, called Westminster,
+Charing Cross, Temple, Blackfriars, and Mansion House.
+
+The wall of the Thames Northern Embankment just alluded to is, to quote
+once more, “constructed generally of brickwork faced with granite, and is
+carried down to a depth of 32½ feet below Trinity high-water mark, the
+foundation being of Portland cement concrete.  The level of the roadway
+generally is four feet above Trinity high-water mark, except at the two
+extremities, where it rises to Westminster and Blackfriars Bridges to an
+extreme height of about 20 feet above high-water.  The rising ground for
+both these approaches is retained by a granite faced wall, similar in
+character to the general Embankment wall.
+
+“The face of the Embankment forms a graceful curve, having a plane face
+to about mean high-water level, and being ornamented above that level
+with mouldings, which are stopped at intervals of about seventy feet with
+plain blocks of granite, intended to carry lamp standards of cast-iron,
+and relieved on the river face by bronze lions’ heads carrying mooring
+rings.  The uniform line of the Embankment is broken at intervals by
+massive piers of granite, flanking recesses for pontoons or landing
+stages for steamboats, and at other places by stairs projecting into the
+river, and intended as landing-piers for small craft.  The steamboat
+piers occur at Westminster, Charing Cross, and Waterloo Bridges; and
+those for boats midway between Westminster and Charing Cross, and between
+Charing Cross and Waterloo Bridge; and both are combined opposite Essex
+Street.  It is intended eventually to surmount the several blocks and
+pedestals with groups of statuary.”
+
+
+
+
+FOOD SUPPLY; MARKETS; BAZAARS; SHOPS.
+
+
+Food Supply.—The _Quarterly Review_, on one occasion, illustrated, in a
+whimsical way, the vastness of the system.  The following is described as
+the supply of meat, poultry, bread, and beer, for one year:—72 miles of
+oxen, 10 abreast; 120 miles of sheep, do.; 7 miles of calves, do.; 9
+miles of pigs, do.; 50 acres of poultry, close together; 20 miles of
+hares and rabbits, 100 abreast; a pyramid of loaves of bread, 600 feet
+square, and thrice the height of St. Paul’s; 1000 columns of hogsheads of
+beer, each 1 mile high.
+
+Water and Coal Supply.—The _water_ used in the metropolis is chiefly
+supplied by the Thames, and by an artificial channel called the _New
+River_, which enters on the north side of the metropolis.  The water is
+naturally good and soft.  The spots at which it is raised from the Thames
+used to be within the bounds of the metropolis, at no great distance from
+the mouths of common sewers; but it is now obtained from parts of the
+river much higher up, and undergoes a very extensive filtration.  Nine
+companies are concerned in the supply of water,—viz., the _New River_,
+_East London_, _Southwark and Vauxhall_, _West Middlesex_, _Lambeth_,
+_Chelsea_, _Grand Junction_, _Kent_, and _Hampstead Water Companies_.
+Some of the works, within the last few years, constructed by these
+companies, up the river, are very fine.  Returns furnished to the
+Registrar-General by the London Water Companies shewed that the average
+daily supply of water for all purposes to the London population, during
+the month of May, 1870, was 107,540,811 gallons, of which it is estimated
+the supply for domestic purposes amounted to about 88,381,700 gallons, or
+26 gallons per day per head of population.  The metropolis is supplied
+with _coal_ principally from the neighbourhood of Newcastle, but partly
+also from certain inland counties; the import from the latter being by
+railway.  Newcastle coal is preferred.  It arrives in vessels devoted
+exclusively to the trade; and so many and so excessive are the duties and
+profits affecting the article, that a ton of coal, which can be purchased
+at Newcastle for 6s. or 7s., costs, to a consumer in London, from 22s. to
+27s.  The quantity of coal brought to London annually much exceeds
+5,000,000 tons, of which considerably more than 2,000,000 come by
+railway.  The wholesale dealings in this commodity are managed chiefly at
+the _Coal Exchange_, a remarkable building just opposite Billingsgate.
+
+                       [Picture: Smithfield Market]
+
+Markets.—London contains nearly 40 markets for cattle, meat, corn, coal,
+hay, vegetables, fish, and other principal articles of consumption.  The
+meat-markets are of various kinds—one for live animals, others for
+carcases in bulk, and others for the retail of meat; some, also, are for
+pork, and others principally for fowls.  The _New Cattle Market_,
+Copenhagen Fields, near Pentonville, built, in 1854, to replace old
+_Smithfield Market_, covers nearly 30 acres, and, with outbuildings,
+slaughterhouses, &c., cost the City Corporation about £400,000.  It is
+the finest live stock market in the kingdom.  The present _Smithfield
+Market_, near the Holborn Viaduct, for dead meat and poultry, is a
+splendid building, 625 feet long, 240 feet wide, and 30 feet high.  Wide
+roads on its north, east, and west sides, accommodate its special
+traffic.  A carriage road runs right through it from north to south, with
+spacious and well ventilating avenues radiating from it.  There are in
+this market no less than 100,000 feet of available space.  It has cost
+upwards of £180,000 already.  There are underground communication with
+several railways, to bring in, right under the market, meat and poultry
+from the country, and meat from the slaughterhouses of the Copenhagen
+Fields Cattle Market.  _Newgate Market_, as a market, no longer exists.
+_Leadenhall Market_ is a _depôt_ for meat and poultry.  At Whitechapel
+there is a meat market also.  The minor meat markets require no special
+note here.  _Billingsgate_, the principal fish market of London, near the
+Custom House, was greatly extended and improved in 1849.  It is well
+worth visiting any morning throughout the year, save Sunday, at five
+o’clock.  Ladies, however, will not care to encounter its noise, bustle,
+and unsavoury odours.  The fish arriving in steamers, smacks, and boats
+from the coast or more distant seas, are consigned to salesmen who,
+during the early market hours, deal extensively with the retail
+fishmongers from all parts of London.  The inferior fish are bought by
+the costermongers, or street-dealers.  When particular fish are in a
+prime state, or very scarce, there are wealthy persons who will pay
+enormously for the rarity; hence a struggle between the boats to reach
+the market early.  At times, so many boats come laden with the same kind
+of fish as to produce a glut; and instead of being sold at a high price,
+as is usually the case, the fish are then retailed for a mere trifle.
+Fish is now brought largely to London by railway, from various ports on
+the east and south coasts.  The yearly sale of fish at Billingsgate has
+been estimated at so high a sum as £2,000,000.
+
+_Covent Garden Market_ (connected by Southampton Street with the Strand)
+is the great vegetable, fruit, and flower market.  This spot, which is
+exceedingly central to the metropolis, was once the garden to the abbey
+and convent of Westminster: hence the name _Convent_ or _Covent_.  At the
+suppression of the religious houses in Henry VIII.’s reign, it devolved
+to the Crown.  Edward VI. gave it to the Duke of Somerset; on his
+attainder it was granted to the Earl of Bedford; and in the Russell
+family it has since remained.  From a design of Inigo Jones, it was
+intended to have surrounded it with a colonnade; but the north and a part
+of the east sides only were completed.  The fruit and vegetable markets
+were rebuilt in 1829–30.  The west side is occupied by the parish church
+of St. Paul’s, noticeable for its massive roof and portico.  Butler,
+author of _Hudibras_, lies in its graveyard, without a stone to mark the
+spot.  In 1721, however, a cenotaph was erected in his honour in
+Westminster Abbey.  The election of members to serve in Parliament for
+the city of Westminster was held in front of this church: the hustings
+for receiving the votes being temporary buildings.  The south side is
+occupied by a row of brick dwellings.  Within the square thus enclosed
+fruit and vegetables of the best quality are exposed for sale.  A large
+paved space surrounding the interior square is occupied by the
+market-gardeners, who, as early as four or five in the morning, have
+carted the produce of their grounds, and wait to dispose of it to dealers
+in fruit and vegetables residing in different parts of London; any
+remainder is sold to persons who have standings in the market, and they
+retail it to such individuals as choose to attend to purchase in smaller
+quantities.  Within this paved space rows of shops are conveniently
+arranged for the display of the choicest fruits of the season: the
+productions of the forcing-house, and the results of horticultural skill,
+appear in all their beauty.  There are also conservatories, in which
+every beauty of the flower-garden may be obtained, from the rare exotic
+to the simplest native flower.  The _Floral Hall_, close to Covent Garden
+Opera House, has an entrance from the north-east corner of the market, to
+which it is a sort of appendage as a Flower Market.  Balls, concerts,
+&c., are occasionally given here.  The _Farringdon_, _Borough_,
+_Portman_, _Spitalfields_, and other vegetable markets, are small
+imitations of that at Covent Garden.
+
+The cultivation of vegetables in the open ground within ten miles
+surrounding London, has arrived at great perfection; and so certain is
+the demand, that the whole is regularly conveyed by land or water to the
+metropolis; insomuch that persons residing in the neighbourhood of those
+well-arranged gardens are really less readily accommodated than the
+inhabitants of the metropolis, and have no supply of vegetables but such
+as have already been sent to London, and thence back to retailers in
+their own locality.  There are also large supplies of foreign fruit and
+vegetables.  The annual produce of the garden-grounds cultivated to
+supply the London markets with fruit and vegetables has been estimated at
+the enormous weight of 360,000 tons, or 1,000 tons _per day_.
+
+Corn.—The greater part of the _corn_ used for bread and other purposes in
+the metropolis is sold by corn-factors at the _Corn Exchange_, Mark Lane;
+but the corn itself is not taken to that place.  Enormous quantities of
+flour are also brought in, ground at mills in the country and in foreign
+parts.
+
+Malt liquors.—The _beer_ and _ale_ consumed in the metropolis is, of
+course, vast in quantity, though there are no means of determining the
+amount.  If, by a letter of introduction, a stranger could obtain
+admission to Barclay & Perkins’s or Truman & Hanbury’s breweries, he
+would there see vessels and operations astonishing for their
+magnitude—bins that are filled with 2,000 quarters of malt every week;
+brewing-rooms nearly as large as Westminster Hall; fermenting vessels
+holding 1,500 barrels each; a beer-tank large enough to float an up-river
+steamer; vats containing 100,000 gallons each; and 60,000 casks, with 200
+horses to convey them in drays to the taverns of the metropolis!
+
+Shops and Bazaars.—The better-class London retail shops, for wealth,
+variety, and vast number, are among the greatest wonders of the place.
+They speak for themselves.  The wholesale establishments with which New
+Cannon Street, Wood Street, and the south side of St. Paul’s
+Churchyard—noticeably the gigantic warehouses of Messrs. Cook &
+Co.—abound, if, by a letter of introduction, an order of admission can be
+obtained, would strike a stranger—in spite of less external display, save
+as regards size—as more wonderful still, so enormous is the amount of
+their business operations, and of capital incoming and outgoing.
+
+There are about 7,400 streets, lanes, rows, &c., in the metropolis.  From
+Charing Cross, within a six miles radius, there are something over 2,600
+miles of streets.  As regards trades generally, it is hard even to get
+anything like an approximate notion of their numbers.  As the _Post
+Office London Directory_ says, new trades are being added to the list
+every year.  Thus, we are told, 57 new trades were so added in the year
+1870.  But to specify a few, there are, say, about 130,000 shopkeepers,
+or owners of commercial establishments, who carry on more than 2,500
+different trades.  Loss of much of London’s shipping trade, &c., has
+indeed driven hundreds of emigrants of late from our east-end waterside
+neighbourhoods.  But London has gone on growing all the same, and trade
+with it.  Among these trades are, without counting purely wholesale
+dealers, about 2,847 grocers and tea dealers, 2,087 butchers, 2,461
+bakers, 1,508 dairymen, &c., 2,370 greengrocers and fruiterers, more than
+595 retail fishmongers, 891 cheesemongers, (this computation does not
+include the small shops in poor neighbourhoods which sell almost
+everything,) 2,755 tailors, (not including about 500 old-clothesmen,
+wardrobe-dealers, &c.,) about 3,347 bootmakers, about 450 hatters, and so
+forth.  All these are master tradesmen or shopkeepers, irrespective of
+workmen, foremen, shopmen, clerks, porters, apprentices, and families.
+We may add, that in the pages of that very large book the _London Post
+Office Directory_, no less than 52 columns and over are occupied by the
+long list of London publicans.
+
+The principal Bazaars of London are the _Soho_, _London Crystal Palace_,
+(Oxford Street,) and _Baker Street_ bazaars, to which should be added the
+_Burlington Arcade_, Piccadilly, and the _Lowther Arcade_, (famous for
+cheap toys,) in the Strand.  The once celebrated _Pantheon_, in Oxford
+Street, is now a wine merchant’s stores.  Many small bazaars exist.
+
+The Bazaar system of oriental countries, in which all the dealers in one
+kind of commodity are met with in one place, is not observable in London;
+yet a stranger may usefully bear in mind that, probably for the
+convenience both of buyers and sellers, an approach to the system is
+made.  For instance, _coachmakers_ congregate in considerable number in
+Long Acre and Great Queen Street; _watchmakers_ and _jewellers_, in
+Clerkenwell; _tanners_ and _leather-dressers_, in Bermondsey; _bird_ and
+_bird-cage sellers_, in Seven Dials; _statuaries_, in the Euston Road;
+_sugar-refiners_, in and near Whitechapel; _furniture-dealers_, in
+Tottenham Court Road; _hat-makers_, in Bermondsey and Southwark;
+_dentists_, about St. Martin’s Lane; &c.  There is one bazaar, if so we
+may term it, of a very remarkable character—namely, _Paternoster Row_.
+This street is a continuation of Cheapside, but is not used much as a
+thoroughfare, though it communicates by transverse alleys or courts with
+St. Paul’s Churchyard, and, at its western extremity, by means of
+Ave-Maria Lane, leads into Ludgate Hill.  Paternoster Row, or ‘the Row,’
+as it is familiarly termed, is a dull street, only wide enough at certain
+points to permit two vehicles to pass each other, with a narrow pavement
+on each side.  The houses are tall and sombre in their aspect, and the
+shops below have a dead look, in comparison with those in the more
+animated streets.  But the deadness is all on the outside.  For a
+considerable period this street has been the head-quarters of booksellers
+and publishers, who, till the present day, continue in such numbers as to
+leave little room for other tradesmen—transacting business in the
+book-trade to a prodigious amount.  At the western extremity of
+Paternoster Row a passage leads from Amen Corner to Stationers’ Hall
+Court, in which is situated Stationers’ Hall, and also several
+publishing-houses.
+
+Mudie’s Library.—While on the subject of books, we may remind the visitor
+that the most remarkable _lending library_ in the world is situated in
+London.  _Mudie’s_, at the corner of New Oxford Street and Museum Street,
+affords a striking example of what the energy of one man can accomplish.
+At this vast establishment the volumes are reckoned by hundreds of
+thousands; and the circulation of them, on easy terms, extends to every
+part of the kingdom.  The chief portion of the building is a lofty
+central gallery, of considerable beauty.
+
+
+
+
+CLUBS; HOTELS; INNS; CHOP-HOUSES; TAVERNS; COFFEE-HOUSES; COFFEE-SHOPS.
+
+
+Club-houses.—During the last forty or fifty years new habits amongst the
+upper classes have led to the establishment of a variety of
+_Club-houses_—places of resort unknown to our ancestors.  There are at
+present, including many fifth-rate clubs, about 84 clubs in London.  A
+London club-house is either the property of a private person, who engages
+to furnish subscribers with certain accommodation, on paying a fixed sum
+as entrance-money, and a specified annual subscription; or else it
+belongs to a society of gentlemen who associate for the purpose.  Of the
+first class, the most noted are _Brookes’s_ and _White’s_, both situated
+in St. James’s Street, The second class of clubs is most numerous: the
+principal among them being the _Carlton_, _Junior Carlton_, _Reform_,
+_Athenæum_, _Oriental_, _Conservative_, _Travellers’_, _United
+University_, _Oxford and Cambridge_, _Army and Navy_, _Guards’_, _United
+Service_, _Junior United Service_, _Union_, _Arthur’s_, and _Windham_
+clubs.  The houses belonging to these clubs respectively are among the
+finest at the West-end of London, and may easily be distinguished in and
+about Pall Mall, St. James’s Street, and Waterloo Place.  No member
+sleeps at his club; the accommodation extends to furnishing all kinds of
+refreshments, the use of a library, and an ample supply of newspapers and
+periodicals in the reading-room.  The real object of these institutions
+is to furnish a place of resort for a select number of gentlemen, on what
+are really moderate terms.  The Athenæum Club, (near the York Column,)
+which consists chiefly of scientific and literary men, is one of the most
+important.  It has 1,200 members, each of whom pays thirty guineas
+entrance-money, and seven guineas yearly subscription.  As in all other
+clubs, members are admitted only by ballot.  The expense of the house in
+building was £35,000, and £5,000 for furnishing; the plate, linen, and
+glass cost £2,500; library, £5,000; and the stock of wine in cellar is
+usually worth about £4,000.  The other principal clubs vary from nine to
+thirty guineas entrance-fee, from six to eleven guineas annual
+subscription, and from 600 to 1,500 members.  During part of the life of
+the late M. Soyer, the _kitchen_ of the Reform Club-house was one of the
+sights of the West-end.  The _Garrick Club_, in Garrick Street, W.C.,
+consists chiefly of theatrical and literary men.  The same remark applies
+to the _Arundel_, in Salisbury Street, Strand.  The _Whittington Club_,
+in the Strand, was the humblest of its class, and bore little resemblance
+to the others; it was rather a literary and scientific institution, with
+a refreshment department added.
+
+The Albany.—The _Albany_ consists of a series of chambers, or suites of
+apartments, intended for ‘West-end bachelors.’  No person carrying on a
+trade or commercial occupation is allowed to live within its limits.
+There are two entrances, one in Piccadilly and one in Burlington Gardens.
+The chambers are placed in eleven groups, denoted by letters of the
+alphabet, A to L.  There are about 60 suites of apartments, many of which
+are occupied by peers, members of parliament, honourables and right
+honourables, and naval and military officers.  Canning, Byron, and
+Macaulay, are named amongst those who have lived in this singular place.
+
+Hotels and Inns.—It has been conjectured (though probably in excess of
+the truth) that at all times there are 150,000 strangers residing for a
+few days only in the metropolis; and to accommodate this numerous
+transient population, there is a vast number of lodging and
+boarding-houses, hotels, and other places of accommodation.  There are
+upwards of 500 better-class hotels, inns, and taverns.  There are about
+120 private hotels not licensed, and therefore do not keep exciseable
+liquors for sale.  There are about 5,200 public-houses licensed to sell
+wines, spirits, and malt liquors.  There are more than 1,964 beer-shops,
+where malt liquors only are sold.
+
+The fashionable hotels are situated west of Charing Cross—as, for
+instance, _Claridge’s_, Brook Street, Grosvenor Square; _Fenton’s_, St.
+James’s Street; _Limmer’s_, George Street, Hanover Square; the
+_Clarendon_, in New Bond Street; the _Burlington_, in Old Burlington
+Street; _Grillon’s_, in Albemarle Street; _Long’s_, in Bond Street; the
+_Palace_, Pimlico; _Wright’s_, Dover Street; _Morley’s_, Trafalgar
+Square; _Hatchett’s_, Dover Street; _Maurigy’s_, Regent Street; _Marshall
+Thompson’s_, Cavendish Square; the _Albemarle_, Albemarle Street; the
+_Hyde Park_, near the Marble Arch; the _Alexandra_, Hyde Park Corner; &c.
+In and about Covent Garden there are several good hotels for single
+gentlemen; among others, the _Cavendish_, the _Bedford_, the _New_ and
+_Old Hummums_, and the _Tavistock_.  One or two others, in Bridge Street,
+Blackfriars, are excellent hotels.  Foreign hotels of a medium class are
+numerous in and about Leicester Square.  Another class of hotels or inns
+are those from which stage-coaches at one time ran, and which were
+resorted to by commercial and other gentlemen; for example, the _Golden
+Cross_, (now renovated and extended,) near Charing Cross; the _White
+Horse Cellar_, Piccadilly; the _Bell and Crown_, Holborn; the _Castle and
+Falcon_, Aldersgate Street; and the _Bull-in-Mouth_, (now called the
+_Queen’s_,) opposite the General Post Office, in St. Martin’s-le-Grand.
+These have all become comfortable middle-class hotels, with railway
+booking-offices attached; but the fall of the stage-coach trade has
+lessened their importance to a great extent.  To these we may add certain
+large inn and tavern establishments at other parts of the town—such as
+the _Bridge House Hotel_, at London Bridge; the _Angel_, at Islington;
+and the _Elephant and Castle_, Newington Causeway.
+
+The almost universal defect of the older class of hotels in London is,
+that they are too often private dwellings extemporized for purposes of
+public accommodation—not buildings erected with the distinct object for
+which they are used.  Hence the London hotels, generally, are confined
+and awkward in their arrangements—a huddle of apartments on different
+levels, narrow passages, and the offensive odour of cookery being common.
+Rarely is there anything to parallel the larger hotels of New York, or
+the _Hotel du Louvre_ at Paris.  The nearest approach to these foreign
+establishments is found in certain hotels adjoining the railway termini,
+of recent construction.  These are the _Euston_ and _Victoria Hotels_,
+near Euston terminus; the _Great Northern Hotel_, adjoining the King’s
+Cross terminus; the _Great Western Hotel_, at the Paddington _terminus_;
+_the Grosvenor Hotel_, at the Pimlico terminus; the _London Bridge
+Terminus Hotel_, adjoining the Brighton Railway terminus; the fine
+_South-Eastern Railway Hotel_, Cannon Street; the _Westminster Palace
+Hotel_, Victoria Street, Westminster; the _Midland_, at St. Pancras; and
+the _Charing Cross Railway Hotel_.  At these new and extensive hotels the
+accommodation is on a better footing than in the older and generally
+small houses.  But notwithstanding these additions, it is indisputable
+that the amount of hotel accommodation is still meagre and defective.
+The want of large good hotels in central situations, to give
+accommodation at moderate charges, remains one of the conspicuous
+deficiencies of the metropolis.  The _Langham_, however, in Portland
+Place, is an excellent hotel.  So is the _Salisbury Hotel_, Salisbury
+Square, Fleet Street.  The idea of building a large hotel in the Strand,
+near St. Mary’s Church, was, by-the-by, abandoned in favour of the new
+_Globe Theatre_; while that handsome building, the _Inns of Court Hotel_,
+in Holborn and Lincoln’s Inn Fields, has never yet been properly
+finished, and is now (1873) a failure.
+
+In and about London, we may mention, are sundry extensive and
+highly-respectable taverns, which, though principally designed for
+accommodating large dining and other festive gatherings, lodge gentlemen
+with every comfort.  Among these may be mentioned the _London Tavern_;
+the _Albion_, in Aldersgate Street; several in Fleet Street, near
+Blackfriars Bridge; the _Freemasons’ Tavern_, Great Queen Street,
+Lincoln’s Inn Fields; and so forth.  There is, besides, a class of
+taverns whose chief business is supplying dinners and slight
+refreshments, also the accommodation of newspapers, and which are
+resorted to chiefly by commercial men.  Each of these has a distinct
+character.  _Garraway’s_ and _Lloyd’s_, at the Royal Exchange, were once
+coffee-houses, but now are associated with marine intelligence,
+stock-trading, and auctions; and in Cornhill, opposite, the _North and
+South American Coffee-house_ supplies American newspapers; and here also
+are to be seen the captains of vessels who are preparing to sail to
+different ports in the western continent and islands.  At the _Jerusalem_
+and _East India Coffee-house_, Cowper’s Court, Cornhill, information
+relating to East India shipping and captains may be obtained.  _Peele’s
+__Coffee-house_, in Fleet Street, is celebrated for keeping files of
+newspapers, which may be consulted; this accommodation, as respects
+London papers, may also be had at some other places.  Other economical
+Reading-Rooms are noticed in the _Appendix_.
+
+Chop-houses, Coffee-shops, and Dining-rooms.—The next class of houses of
+this nature comprises _Chop-houses_, but also doing the business of
+taverns, and resorted to chiefly by business-men—as the _Chapter_, in
+Paternoster Row; the _Mitre_, the _Cock_, the _Cheshire Cheese_, and the
+_Rainbow_, in Fleet Street.  Many such houses are to be met with near the
+Bank of England, in Cheapside, Bucklersbury, Threadneedle Street,
+Bishopsgate Street, and the alleys turning out of Cornhill.  The _Ship
+and Turtle_, in Leadenhall Street, was a famous turtle-house; and others
+are noted for some specialty.
+
+London contains a very numerous class of _Coffee-shops_, of a much more
+humble, though perhaps more useful nature, at which coffee, cocoa, tea,
+bread and butter, toast, chops and steaks, bacon and eggs, and cold meat,
+may be obtained at very moderate prices; a few pence will purchase a
+morning or evening meal at such places; and many working-men dine there
+also.  There are about 1,500 houses of this class in London.  There is
+another class of _Eating-houses_ or _Dining-rooms_, resorted to for
+dinners by large numbers of persons.  _Lake’s_, _His Lordship’s Larder_,
+and one or two others, in Cheapside; _Izant’s_, and several others in and
+near Bucklersbury; the _Chancery Dining-rooms_, in Chancery Lane; the
+_Fish Ordinary_ at the _Three Tuns_ in Billingsgate, and at _Simpson’s_
+in Cheapside; and several dining-rooms in and near the Haymarket and
+Rupert Street—may be reckoned among the number.  A good but simple dinner
+may be had at these houses for from 1s. 6d. to 2s. 6d.  At the _St.
+James’s Hall Restaurant_, in Regent Street; _Blanchard’s_, Regent Street,
+corner of Burlington Street; the _Albion_, Russell Street, near Drury
+Lane Theatre; the _London_, Fleet Street, nearly opposite the Inner
+Temple gate; _Simpson’s_, in the Strand, opposite Exeter Hall; and last,
+but by no means least, at _Speirs and Pond’s Restaurant_, at Ludgate
+Station of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway; a very fair dinner may
+be had, at prices varying from, say, a minimum of half-a-crown up to a
+greater cost, according to the state of the diner’s tastes and finances.
+At the _Gaiety Restaurant_, adjoining the Gaiety Theatre, a good dinner
+may be had.  At Cremorne Gardens, too, there used to be a good _table
+d’hôte_ for 2s. 6d.
+
+Temperance Hotels.—There are several good houses of this character.
+Among others may be named _The Waverley_, King Street, Cheapside;
+_Angus’s_, Bridge Street, Blackfriars; _Anderson’s_, Theobald Road; and
+_Ling’s_, South Street, Finsbury.
+
+
+
+
+THEATRES, CONCERTS, AND OTHER PLACES OF AMUSEMENT.
+
+
+Theatres.—There are altogether in London a large number.  Of these the
+following are the principal:—_Her Majesty’s Theatre_, on the western side
+of the Haymarket, is the original of the two Italian Opera Houses in
+London; it was built in 1790, on the site of an older theatre, burnt down
+in 1867, and re-built in 1869.  It is occasionally unoccupied.  The
+freehold of some of the boxes has been sold for as much as £8,000 each.
+The Opera Season is generally from March to August; but the main
+attractions and the largest audiences are from May to July.  The _Royal
+Italian Opera House_, occupying the site of the former Covent Garden
+Theatre, was built in 1858, on the ruins of one destroyed by fire.  The
+building is very remarkable, both within and without.  Under the
+lesseeship of Mr. Gye, and the conductorship of Mr. (now Sir Michael)
+Costa, operas have been produced here with a completeness scarcely
+paralleled in Europe.  When not required for _Italian Operas_, the
+building is occupied usually by an _English Opera_ Company, or
+occasionally for miscellaneous concerts.  The _Floral Hall_, adjoining
+this theatre, is occasionally engaged for concerts.  _Drury Lane
+Theatre_, the fourth on the same site, was built in 1812; its glories
+live in the past, for the legitimate drama now alternates there with
+entertainments of a more spectacular and melodramatic character.  The
+_Haymarket Theatre_, exactly opposite Her Majesty’s, was built in 1821;
+under Mr. Buckstone’s management, comedy and farce are chiefly performed.
+The _Adelphi Theatre_, in the Strand, near Southampton Street, was
+rebuilt in 1858; it has for forty years been celebrated for melodramas,
+and for the attractiveness of its comic actors.  The present lessee, Mr.
+Webster, has the merit of having introduced many improvements for the
+comfort of the audience.  The _Lyceum Theatre_, or _English Opera House_,
+at the corner of Wellington Street, Strand, was built in 1834; it was
+intended as an English Opera House, but its fortunes have been
+fluctuating, and the performances are not of a definite kind.  The
+_Princess’s Theatre_, on the north side of Oxford Street, was built in
+1830; after a few years of opera and miscellaneous dramas, it became the
+scene of Mr. Charles Kean’s Shakspearian revivals, and now resembles most
+of the other theatres.  _St. James’s Theatre_, in King Street, St.
+James’s, was built for Braham, the celebrated singer; it was a losing
+speculation to him; and although a really beautiful theatre inside, its
+managerial arrangements have been very changeable of late years.  The
+_Olympic Theatre_, in Wych Street, Drury Lane, is small, but well
+conducted and successful.  The _Strand Theatre_, near the Olympic, has
+been remarkable for its burlesque extravaganzes.  The _New Globe
+Theatre_, Newcastle Street, Strand, and the _Gaiety_, 345 Strand, and
+lastly the _Vaudeville_, (for comedy, farce, and burlesque,) near the
+_Adelphi_, are all of comparatively recent erection; so are the _Court
+Theatre_, near Sloane Square; the _Charing Cross Theatre_, King William
+Street; the _Queen’s Theatre_, Long Acre, late _St. Martin’s Hall_; and
+the _Holborn Theatre_.  The _New Royalty_, or _Soho Theatre_, in Dean
+Street, Soho, was once a private theatre, belonging to Miss Kelly, the
+celebrated actress.  The _Prince of Wales’s Theatre_, in Tottenham
+Street, is the old Tottenham Theatre in a renovated and greatly improved
+condition.  Some of Mr. T. W. Robertson’s best comedies have been
+produced here within the last few years.  _Sadler’s Wells_, near the New
+River Head, was at one time remarkable for the ‘real water’ displayed in
+melodramas.  The _Marylebone Theatre_, between Regent’s Park and the
+Edgeware Road; the _Grecian_, in the City Road; the _Britannia_, at
+Hoxton; the _City of London_, in Norton Folgate; the _Standard_, in
+Shoreditch; and the _Pavilion_, in Whitechapel, are Theatres noticeable
+for the large numbers of persons accommodated, and the lowness of the
+prices of admission.  On the Surrey side of the Thames are _Astley’s
+Amphitheatre_, in the Westminster Road, (the Circus is now removed;) the
+_Victoria Theatre_, in the Waterloo Road; and the _Surrey Theatre_, in
+Blackfriars Road.  The performances at these several theatres commence at
+an hour varying from half-past six (some of the minors) to half-past
+eight (two Opera houses) in the evening, but the most usual hour is
+seven; and, as a general rule, there is half-price at a later hour in the
+evening.  During the run of the Christmas pantomimes there are a few
+additional performances at two in the afternoon.  It has recently been
+estimated that 4,000 persons are employed at the London theatres, earning
+daily food for probably 12,000; and that the public spend about £350,000
+at those places annually.
+
+Concerts.—The principal Concert Rooms in London are, _Exeter Hall_, _St.
+James’s Hall_, _Hanover Square Rooms_, the _Music Hall_, in Store Street,
+the _Floral Hall_, _Willis’ Rooms_, and the _Queen’s Concert Room_,
+attached to Her Majesty’s Theatre.  All these places are engaged for
+single concerts; but there are also musical societies and choral bodies
+which give series of concerts every year.  Among these are the _Sacred
+Harmonic Society_, (Exeter Hall,) the _National Choral Society_, (same
+place,) the _Philharmonic Society_, (Hanover Square Rooms,) _Mr. Henry
+Leslie’s Choir_, the _New Philharmonic_, (St. James’s Hall,) the _Musical
+Society_, the _Musical Union_, the _Glee and Madrigal Society_, the
+_Beethoven Society_, the _Monday Popular Concerts_, &c.  The _Oratorio_
+performances at Exeter Hall, by the Sacred Harmonic and National Choral
+Societies, are considered to be the finest of the kind in Europe.  There
+are occasional _Handel Choral Meetings_ at the same place, under Sir
+Michael Costa, supported by 1,600 singers.
+
+Tavern Music Halls.—Numerous Rooms connected with taverns have been
+opened in London, within the last few years, for musical performances.
+The music is a singular compound of Italian, English, and German operatic
+compositions, fairly executed, with comic songs of the most extravagant
+kind; to these are added what the performers please to term ‘nigger’
+dances, and athletic and rope-dancing feats—the whole accompanied by
+drinking and smoking on the part of the audience.  The chief among these
+places are, _Canterbury Hall_, near the Westminster Road; the _Oxford_,
+in Oxford Street; the _Royal Music Hall_, late _Weston’s_, in Holborn;
+the _Alhambra_, in Leicester Square; the _Philharmonic_, Islington, near
+the _Angel_.  _Evans’_, in Covent Garden, does not as a rule admit
+females, though ladies, friends of the proprietor, &c., are occasionally
+allowed to look down on the proceedings from wired-in private boxes above
+the line of the stage.  _Evans’_ has long been honourably known for its
+old English glees, catches, madrigals, &c., good supper, and gentlemanly
+arrangements and audiences.  The _Raglan_, the _Winchester_, the _South
+London_, and others, are of plainer character.  Charge, usually 6d. to
+1s.  Mr. Morton, the former proprietor of _Canterbury Hall_, provided a
+capital gallery of pictures, (_Punch’s_ ‘Royal Academy over the Water,’)
+placed freely open to the visitors to the Music Hall.
+
+Entertainments.—There is a class of London amusements, called
+_Entertainments_, which has come much into fashion within a few years.
+They generally last about two hours, from eight till ten in the evening.
+The late Mr. Albert Smith was one of the first to commence these
+entertainments, with his ‘_Overland Route_,’ ‘_Mont Blanc_,’ and
+‘_China_;’ and the names of other well known entertainers are, Mr.
+Woodin, Mr. and Mrs. German Reed, Mr. John Parry, Mr. A. Sketchley, Mr.
+and Mrs. Howard Paul, &c.  Delineation of character, painted scenery,
+descriptive sketches, singing, music, ventriloquism—some or all of these
+supply the materials from which these entertainments are got up.
+Sometimes the _programme_ of performances is of a less rational
+character, depending on the incongruities of so-called negro melodists;
+while occasionally a higher tone is adopted, as in ‘_Readings_,’ by
+various persons.  The principal halls or rooms in which these
+entertainments are held are the _Egyptian Hall_, Piccadilly; the _Gallery
+of Illustration_, Regent Street; the minor rooms at _St. James’s Hall_;
+and the _Music Hall_, in Store Street.  The prices of admission generally
+vary from 1s. to 3s.  The leading pages of the daily newspapers, and more
+especially of the _Times_, will always shew which of these entertainments
+are open at any particular time.
+
+Miscellaneous Amusements.—The sources of information just mentioned will
+also notify particulars of numerous other places of amusement, which need
+not be separately classified.  Among these are the _Polytechnic
+Institution_, Regent Street, (famous for Mr. Pepper’s ‘Ghosts;’) and
+_Madame Tussaud’s Waxwork_, Baker Street, Portman Square, (a favourite
+exhibition with country visitors.)  To all such places the charge of
+admission is 1s.  Among _Pleasure Gardens_, for music, dancing, tight and
+slack rope performances, &c., _Cremorne Gardens_, at Chelsea, _St. Helena
+Gardens_, at Rotherhithe, the _Riverside Gardens_, at North Woolwich, and
+the _Surrey Gardens_, near Walworth, are the principal; _Vauxhall
+Gardens_ have disappeared as places of amusement, and have been
+supplanted by bricks and mortar.  The so-called _Tea Gardens_ are much
+more numerous, and are supported rather by the profit on the beverages
+sold, than by the fee charged for admission.
+
+A few additional particulars concerning _Free Exhibitions_, _Shilling
+Exhibitions_, and Exhibitions available only by Introduction, are given
+in the _Appendix_.
+
+
+
+
+PARKS AND PUBLIC GROUNDS; ZOOLOGICAL, BOTANICAL, AND HORTICULTURAL
+GARDENS.
+
+
+Much has been done within the last few years towards adorning the
+metropolis with health-giving parks and grounds freely open to the
+public.  The gardens of three scientific societies, gradually brought
+into a very attractive state, are also accessible, though not without
+payment.
+
+St. James’s Park.—This is so called from St. James’s Palace, which partly
+bounds it on the north.  Originally these grounds were a marshy waste,
+which was drained and otherwise improved by Henry VIII.; who also took
+down an ancient hospital dedicated to St. James, and built on its site
+the palace now called St. James’s.  Charles II. improved the grounds by
+planting the avenues of lime-trees on the north and south sides of the
+park; and by forming the _Mall_, which was a hollowed, smooth, gravelled
+space, half a mile long, skirted with a wooden border, for playing at
+ball.  The southern avenue was appropriated to aviaries; hence it derived
+the appellation Birdcage Walk.  The centre of the park was occupied by
+canals and ponds for aquatic birds.  William III. threw the park open to
+the public for their recreation.  Within the last thirty years the park
+has been greatly improved.  It is nearly a mile and a-half in
+circumference, and covers about 90 acres; and the avenues form delightful
+shady promenades.  In the centre is a fine piece of water, interspersed
+with islands, and dotted with swans and water-fowl; a bridge was built
+across this water in 1857.  On each side are spacious lawns, enriched
+with lofty trees and flowering shrubs.  The lawns are separated from the
+avenues by iron railings, and at different parts are keepers’ lodges.
+There are nine or ten entrances to the park, the Queen’s Guard doing duty
+at each, day and night.  At the east side is a large gravelled space,
+called the _Parade_, on which, about ten o’clock every morning, the
+body-guards required for the day are mustered—and here the regimental
+bands perform for a time in fine weather.  Here also guns are fired on
+state occasions.  At the south side of the parade is placed a huge
+mortar, brought from Spain, where it was used during the Peninsular war;
+it can propel a bombshell nearly four miles.  At the north end of the
+parade is a piece of Turkish ordnance, of great length, brought from
+Alexandria, in Egypt.  A little farther north from the parade is a broad
+flight of steps, giving entrance to the park from Waterloo Place,
+constructed by order of William IV.; these steps are surmounted by a
+lofty column, commemorative of the late Duke of York, which occupies the
+spot where formerly stood Carlton House, the favourite residence of
+George IV. while Prince Regent.  (Near here the band of the
+Commissionaires plays on summer evenings.)  Farther along the Mall, or
+avenue, is Marlborough House; next to which is St. James’s Palace,
+separated by Stafford House from the Green Park.  At the western end is
+Buckingham Palace; and on the southern side, Birdcage Walk, and the
+Wellington Barracks.  This park, all things considered, is one of the
+greatest ornaments to the metropolis.  The lake or water is a famous
+skating-place in winter; and having been brought to a maximum and nearly
+uniform depth of four feet, there is little danger of drowning by the
+breakage of the ice.
+
+The Green Park.—This park, less attractive than St. James’s, and
+occupying about 60 acres, rises with a gentle slope to the north of
+Buckingham Palace, and is bounded on its east side by many fine mansions
+of the nobility—including those of the Duke of Sutherland, and the Earls
+Spencer, Ellesmere, and Yarborough.  In a north-westerly direction from
+the palace is a broad road called Constitution Hill, connecting St.
+James’s Park with Hyde Park Corner.  On the north is the line of
+terrace-like street forming the western portion of Piccadilly.  The whole
+of the Green Park is surrounded by iron railings, and is interesting from
+its undulating grassy surface, which rises considerably on the north
+side.  From the highest ground there is a pleasing prospect of Buckingham
+Palace, and of St. James’s Park, with its ornamental grounds and avenues
+of tall trees; and behind these Westminster Abbey and the new Houses of
+Parliament majestically rise, accompanied by the turrets of other
+buildings.  At the north-west angle of the park, where Constitution Hill
+joins Piccadilly, is a triumphal arch of the reign of George IV.,
+elaborately decorated, but possessing little general effect.  The largest
+equestrian statue in England, that of the Duke of Wellington, stands on
+this arch; where it was placed in defiance of the opinion of persons of
+taste, who protested against the incongruity of such an arrangement.
+Across the way is the handsome entrance to Hyde Park, close to Apsley
+House, the great Duke’s residence; and here, in the after-part of the
+day, in fine weather, may be seen an extraordinary concourse of
+foot-passengers, vehicles, and equestrians, going to and returning from
+Hyde Park; also the general traffic between Piccadilly and Kensington,
+Brompton, and other places in a westerly direction.
+
+Hyde Park.—This fine open place is part of the ancient manor of Hida,
+which belonged to the monastery of St. Peter, at Westminster, till Henry
+VIII. appropriated it differently.  Its extent is about 390 acres, part
+of which is considerably elevated.  The whole is intersected with noble
+roads and paths, and luxuriant trees, planted singly or in groups,
+presenting very diversified prospects.  Near the south-east corner, the
+entrance from Piccadilly, on an elevated pedestal, stands a colossal
+bronze statue of Achilles, cast from the cannon taken at the battles of
+Salamanca and Waterloo, weighing thirty tons, and (as the inscription
+informs us) ‘erected to the Duke of Wellington and his companions in arms
+by their countrywomen.’  [Picture: Knightsbridge, Albert Gate, Hyde Park,
+&c.  (Brompton and Kensington Roads in the distance.)] It cost £10,000,
+and was the work of Sir R. Westmacott.  The south-east entrance to the
+park, near Apsley House, is marked by a handsome series of arches and
+balustrades, from the designs of Mr. Decimus Burton.  The north-east
+entrance, at the end of Oxford Street, now comprises the _Marble Arch_,
+removed from the front of Buckingham Palace.  The other entrances, of
+which there are several, are less ornate.  The long sheet of water called
+the _Serpentine_ enriches the scenery of Hyde Park.  Near its western
+extremity is a stone bridge, of five large and two smaller arches,
+erected in 1826, giving access to the gardens of Kensington Palace; and
+the portion of the Serpentine contained within the gardens has lately
+been rendered very attractive, by the formation, at its head, of a small
+Italian garden, with fountains, statuary, &c.  The carriage-drive on the
+northern bank of the Serpentine is called the _Ladies’ Mile_.  On the
+level space of Hyde Park troops of the line and volunteers are
+occasionally reviewed.  There is a well-stored magazine near the western
+side.  The broad road through the park to Kensington is denominated
+Rotten Row, and is a fashionable resort for equestrians of both sexes,
+but is not open to wheel-carriages.  Other roads display countless
+elegant equipages of wealth and fashion; while the footpaths, which are
+railed off from the roads, are favourite places of resort for visitors,
+who enjoy the salubrity of the air, and the gaiety of the scene, more
+particularly between five and seven on a summer afternoon.  There are
+several entrances open from early morning till ten at night.  No stage or
+hackney coaches, carts, or waggons, are permitted within the gates of
+Hyde Park—with the exception of a road-way, made at the time of the
+International Exhibition in 1862, and since kept up, across the park,
+near Kensington Gardens, for passenger-vehicles.  The Serpentine is much
+frequented for bathing and skating.  It has been recently cleaned out,
+and drained to that end; the Royal Humane Society have a receiving-house
+near at hand, to aid those whose lives may be endangered.  The morning
+and evening hours for bathing are defined by regulations placarded in
+various places.  The Great Exhibition of 1851, the first of its kind, was
+held in a Crystal Palace near the south-west corner of the park.  The
+Exhibition building of 1862 was beyond the limits of the park.  The
+_Albert Memorial_ is at the Kensington end of Hyde Park.
+
+London International Exhibition.—Not far beyond Prince’s Gate, Hyde Park,
+is the London International Exhibition of 1873, which opened on the 1st
+May, and will continue open till the 30th September of this year.  The
+ground plan and the view of the building which we give will save
+unnecessary expenditure of our space, which is obviously limited.
+[Picture: Ground Plan] Among the many objects of interest are shewn
+selected specimens as follows:—Pictures, Oil and Water Colour; Sculpture;
+Decorative Furniture, Plate, Designs, Mosaics, &c.; Stained Glass;
+Architecture and Models; Engravings; Lithography; Photography as a Fine
+Art; Porcelain; Earthenware of all kinds; Terra-Cotta and Stoneware;
+Machinery used for Pottery of all kinds; Woollen Manufactures; Carpets;
+Worsted Manufactures; Machinery, in motion, used in Woollen and Worsted
+Manufactures; Live Alpacas, remarkable for their hair and wool, and other
+animals; Educational Works and Appliances; Scientific Inventions and
+Discoveries; Horticulture.  In the Royal Albert Hall musical art is
+represented daily.
+
+             [Picture: London International Exhibition, 1873]
+
+Kensington Gardens.—At the western extremity of Hyde Park lie Kensington
+Gardens, a large piece of ground laid out in the ornamental park style,
+interspersed with walks, and ornamented with rows and clumps of noble
+trees.  Besides entrances from Hyde Park, there are others from the
+Knightsbridge and Bayswater Roads.  Near the west end of the grounds
+stands Kensington Palace.  The gardens have been more than once
+considerably extended, so that they now measure about two and a-half
+miles in circumference.  There are some beautiful gates on the south
+side, which were contributed by the Coalbrook Dale Company to the Great
+Exhibition of 1851.  These grounds form a most delightful public
+promenade during fine weather; especially on summer evenings, when one of
+the Guards’ bands frequently plays near the south-east corner.
+
+Regent’s Park.—This beautiful park is situated considerably away from the
+other parks, in a northerly direction from the Marylebone Road.  It
+consists of a nearly circular enclosure of about 470 acres, laid out on
+the approved principles of landscape gardening; its centre is enriched
+with lakes, plantations, shrubberies, and beds of flowers.  Many of the
+Metropolitan Volunteer Rifle Corps exercise and drill in this park, in
+all except the winter months.  The park is surrounded by extensive ranges
+of buildings, forming terraces, variously designated, and decorated with
+sculpture in agreement with their respective orders of architecture:
+producing an effect of much grandeur, though, in some instances, of
+questionable taste.  Three or four isolated mansions occupy sites within
+the park.  The outer drive is two miles in circuit; the inner drive is a
+perfect circle, with two outlets.  At Mr. Bishop’s Observatory, near this
+inner circle, Mr. Hind made most of his important discoveries of
+asteroids and comets.  Near the south-eastern corner of the park the
+_Colosseum_ stands conspicuous.  It is now closed.  The Zoological and
+Botanical Gardens will be described presently.  Some distance north of
+the Colosseum are St. Katharine’s Hospital and Chapel—a very luxurious
+provision for ‘six poor bachelors and six poor spinsters.’  Near the
+Colosseum was the once celebrated exhibition called the _Diorama_, which
+was some years ago converted into a Baptist chapel, at the cost of Sir
+Morton Peto.
+
+Primrose Hill.—This spot now deserves to be ranked among the public parks
+of London.  It is immediately north of the Regent’s Park.  The Crown
+owned part of it, and obtained the rest by purchase from Eton College.
+The hill-top, the grassy slopes, and the gravelled paths are kept in
+excellent order; and a stranger should not lose an opportunity of viewing
+the ‘world of London’ from this spot in early morning.  By permission of
+the authorities, a refreshment-room has been established for visitors;
+and a ‘Shakspeare Oak’ planted, April 23, 1864, which, however, “came to
+grief.”
+
+Victoria Park.—This, the only park in the east or poorer division of
+London, consists of about 270 acres.  Having been formed only a few
+years, the trees have not yet grown to a full size; but it is gradually
+becoming a pleasant spot, with flower-beds, lakes, walks, and shady
+avenues.  This park is especially distinguished by possessing the most
+magnificent _Public Fountain_ yet constructed in the metropolis; it was
+provided by the munificence of Miss Burdett Coutts, at a cost of £5,000;
+the design, due to Mr. Darbyshire, is that of a Gothic structure, crowned
+by a cupola 60 feet high.  Being near the densely populated districts of
+Bethnal Green and Mile End, the park is a great boon to the inhabitants.
+It lies between those districts and Hackney, and easy access to it can be
+obtained from two stations on the North London Railway—those of Hackney
+and Hackney Wick, or Victoria Park.  The fountain just mentioned is near
+the Hackney entrance.  Improved access is also opened from Whitechapel,
+from Mile End, and from Bow.
+
+Battersea Park.—This park, of about 180 acres, on which £300,000 has been
+spent, lies between Vauxhall and Battersea, and is the only public park
+which comes down to the Thames.  Nothing can exceed the change exhibited
+on this spot.  Until recently it was a miserable swamp, called Battersea
+Fields; now it is a fine park, interesting to look at, and healthful to
+walk in.  A beautiful suspension bridge, from the designs of Mr. Page,
+connects this park with Chelsea, on the other side of the river; and near
+it is another bridge for railway traffic.
+
+Kennington Park.—A few years ago there was an open common at Kennington,
+dirty and neglected, and mostly held in favour by such classes as those
+which held the Chartist meeting in 1848.  It is now a prettily laid-out
+public park—small, but well kept.
+
+Finsbury Park, Stoke Newington, near Alexandra Park, was opened in
+August, 1869.
+
+Southwark Park was opened about the same time.  Though small, they are
+great boons to the working classes.
+
+Zoological Gardens.—At the northern extremity of the Regent’s Park are
+the _Zoological Gardens_, the property of the Zoological Society, and
+established in 1826.  These gardens are very extensive; and being removed
+from the dingy atmosphere, noise, and bustle of London, present an
+agreeable and country-like aspect.  The grounds have been disposed in
+picturesque style—here a clump of shrubby trees and border of flowers,
+indigenous and exotic; there a pretty miniature lake; and at intervals a
+neat rustic cottage, with straw-thatched roof and honeysuckled porch.
+Much of the ground, also, is occupied as green meadows, either subdivided
+into small paddocks for deer and other quadrupeds, or dotted with movable
+trellis-houses, the abodes of different kinds of birds which require the
+refreshing exercise of walking on the green turf.  Throughout the whole,
+neat gravel-walks wind their serpentine course, and conduct the visitor
+to the carnivora-house, reptile-house, bear-pit, monkey-house, aviaries,
+aquaria, and other departments of the establishment.  The collection of
+animals is unquestionably the finest in England.  The gardens are open
+every week-day, from 9 till sunset, for the admission of visitors, who
+pay 1s. each at the gate, or 6d. on Mondays.  On Saturday afternoon, in
+summer, one of the Guards’ bands generally plays for an hour or two.  On
+Sunday Fellows are admitted, and non-Fellows by a Fellow’s order.
+
+                      [Picture: Zoological Gardens]
+
+Botanical Gardens.—These are also situated in the Regent’s Park,
+occupying the chief portion of the space within the inner circle.  They
+belong to the Botanical Society, and contain a very choice collection of
+trees, shrubs, flowers, and plants generally.  Admission by strangers can
+only be obtained through the medium of the members, or occasionally on
+the payment of rather a high fee.  On the days of the principal flower
+and plant shows, these gardens are especially distinguished by the
+display of aristocratic fashion and beauty.
+
+                     [Picture: Horticultural Gardens]
+
+Horticultural Gardens.—These beautiful new grounds are objects of
+attraction on many accounts—their merit in connection with garden
+architecture, the interest attending the flower-shows there held, and the
+special relation existing between the grounds and the Exhibitions at
+Brompton.  You can enter them by the gates in Exhibition Road and Prince
+Albert Road, South Kensington.  A few years ago, besides an office in
+London, the society had only facilities at Chiswick for holding the great
+flower-shows.  The present arrangement is in all respects a superior one.
+Twenty acres of land were purchased or rented from the Commissioners of
+the Great Exhibition of 1851, between the Kensington and Brompton Roads;
+the subscribers of the purchase-money being admitted to membership on
+favourable conditions.  The ground is laid out in three terraces, rising
+successively in elevation, and surrounded by Italian arcades open to the
+gardens.  There are also cascades and waterworks.  The highest terrace
+has a spacious conservatory, to form a winter-garden.  Mr. Sidney Smith
+is the architect.  The last Great Exhibition building was so planned as
+to form a vast southern background to the gardens; and the latter were
+spread out in all their beauty, as seen from certain points in the
+former.  During the summer months the gardens are open on certain
+occasions to the public by paying, the days and terms being duly
+advertised in the newspapers and journals.  Near these gardens is the
+towering _Royal Albert Hall of Science and Art_, which was formally
+opened by Queen Victoria, on the 29th of March, 1871.  The fact of 8,000
+people attending within one building to witness the opening of it, will
+shew its vast size.  The sum of £200,000, up to that date, had been
+expended on it.  The Hall, in some sense, has been erected in memory of
+the late Prince Consort, whose aspirations, during his honourable life
+here, were always towards whatever tended to the moral and intellectual
+culture of the people of this country.  The management of the undertaking
+is entrusted to the energetic attention of the scientific men to whom we
+owe the South Kensington Museum.
+
+
+
+
+OMNIBUSES; TRAMWAYS; CABS; RAILWAYS; STEAMERS.
+
+
+Omnibuses.—Very few indeed of the regular old-fashioned coaches are now
+to be seen in London.  Most of the places within twenty miles of the
+metropolis, on every side, are supplied with omnibuses instead.  The
+first omnibus was started by Mr. Shillibeer, from Paddington to the Bank,
+July 4, 1829.  From a return with which, by the courtesy of Colonel
+Henderson, C.B., Commissioner of the Metropolitan Police, Scotland Yard,
+we were kindly favoured, we gathered, that up to date of the
+communication in question,—viz., 28th June, 1870,—the number of such
+vehicles licensed in the Metropolitan district was 1,218.  Every omnibus
+and hackney carriage within the Metropolitan district and the City of
+London, and the liberties thereof, has to take out a yearly license, in
+full force for one year, unless revoked or suspended; and all such
+licenses are to be granted by the Commissioners of Police, whose officers
+are constantly inspecting these public vehicles.  Generally speaking,
+each _omnibus_ travels over the same route, and exactly the same number
+of times, day after day, with the exception of some few of the omnibuses
+which go longer journeys than the rest, and run not quite so often in
+winter as in summer.  Hence the former class of omnibus comes to be
+associated with a particular route.  It is known to the passengers by its
+colour, the name of its owner, the name given to the omnibus itself, or
+the places to and from which it runs, according to circumstances.  The
+designations given to the omnibuses, whether meaning or unmeaning in
+themselves, are found to be very convenient, because they are generally
+written in large conspicuous characters.  This being an important matter
+to strangers, we shall give a condensed list of some of the chief omnibus
+routes in London in the _Appendix_.
+
+Large omnibuses, to work on _street tramways_, after having been tried
+within the last few years, having evoked angry discussion between
+opponents and defenders, and having been entirely withdrawn, have now
+been revived, from Brixton Church to Kennington Gate, on the Mile End and
+Whitechapel Roads, City Road, Kingsland, &c., &c., and are rapidly
+extending.
+
+There are, to a male visitor, few better ways of getting a bird’s-eye
+view of London than by riding outside an omnibus from one end of London
+to the other, as, according to the omnibus taken, the route can be
+greatly varied.
+
+Cabs.—These convenient vehicles have completely superseded the old
+pair-horse hackney-coaches in London; no vehicle of the kind being now
+ever seen.  There are, according to the return above quoted, 6,793 of the
+modern single-horse hackney-coaches in the metropolis altogether—of two
+different kinds, ‘four-wheelers’ and ‘Hansoms,’ (named after the
+patentee.)  The ‘four-wheelers’ are the more numerous; they have two
+seats and two doors; they carry four persons, and are entirely enclosed.
+The ‘Hansoms’ have two very large wheels, one seat to accommodate two
+persons, and are open in front; the driver is perched up behind, and
+drives his vehicle at a rapid rate.
+
+Railways.—If omnibuses and cabs are more important than railways to
+strangers while _in_ London, railways are obviously the most important of
+the three when coming to or departing from London.  The following are a
+few particulars concerning such railways as enter the metropolis.
+
+_London and North-Western Railway_ has its terminus just behind Euston
+Square.  The noble portico in front—by far the finest thing of the kind
+connected with railway architecture—has been rendered ridiculous by the
+alterations in the buildings behind it; for it is now at one corner of an
+enclosed court, instead of being in the centre of the frontage.  A new
+hall leading to the booking-offices, finished in 1849, is worthy of the
+great company to which it belongs; the vast dimensions, the fine statue
+of George Stephenson, and the _bassi-rilievi_ by Thomas, render it an
+object deserving of a visit.  This station is the London terminus of a
+system exceeding 1,446 miles.
+
+The _Midland Railway_ has a magnificent terminus in the Euston Road, and
+a junction with the Metropolitan line.  It has already more than 800
+miles open.
+
+_Great Northern Railway_ has its terminus at King’s Cross—a building more
+remarkable for novelty than for beauty.  This company, a severe
+competitor to some of older date, has few stations near London; but the
+directness of the line of railway renders it important as an outlet to
+the north.  A good hotel is contiguous to the terminus.  The goods’ depôt
+has become famous for the vast quantity of coal brought to the
+metropolis.
+
+_Great Western Railway_ has its terminus at Paddington, where a fine new
+station was built a few years ago.  A style of arabesque polychrome
+decoration has been adopted, not seen at other metropolitan stations.
+Paddington is the head-quarters of the broad-gauge system, which extends
+to Weymouth in one direction, to Truro in a second, to Milford Haven in a
+third, and to Wolverhampton in a fourth; but some of the broad-gauge
+lines belong to other companies; while, on the other hand, this company
+has adopted the double-gauge on about 400 miles of its line.  The
+terminus has a splendid new hotel adjoining it.
+
+_West London Railway_ (now better known as the _West London Extension
+Railway_) can hardly be said to have an independent commercial existence.
+It was an old and unsuccessful affair, till taken up by four of the great
+companies, and enlarged in an important way.  It now includes a railway
+bridge over the Thames at Battersea; it is connected with the London and
+North-Western, the Great Western, and the Metropolitan, on the north, and
+with the South-Western, the Brighton, and the Chatham and Dover, on the
+south.  There are stations at Kensington, Chelsea, and Battersea.
+
+_Hammersmith and City Junction Railway_ crosses the last-named line at
+Shepherds’ Bush, and joins the Great Western at Kensal New Town, a mile
+or two beyond Paddington.
+
+_North and South-Western Junction Railway_ is, perhaps, valuable rather
+as a link between the greater railways, than as an independent line.  It
+joins the North London at Camden Town, and the South-Western at Kew; and
+has stations at Kentish Town, Hampstead, Finchley New Road, Edgeware
+Road, Kensal Green, Acton, and Hammersmith.  It establishes through
+trains with other companies; and although it has no actual London
+terminus of its own, it is a great convenience to the western margin of
+the metropolis, for the fares are low.
+
+_South-Western Railway_ has its terminus in the Waterloo Road, which has
+been placed in connection with the London Bridge Station.  The main lines
+of the company extend to Portsmouth in one direction, Dorchester in
+another, and Exeter in a third; while there is a multitude of
+branches—from Wimbledon to Croydon, from Wimbledon to Epsom and
+Leatherhead, from Wandsworth to Richmond and Windsor, from Barnes to
+Hounslow, from Staines to Reading, &c.  There is no good hotel whatever
+near the Waterloo or Vauxhall Stations—a defect which seems to need a
+remedy.
+
+_Victoria and Crystal Palace Railway_ is a concern in which so many
+companies have an interest, that it is not easy to define the ownership.
+The Victoria Station, within a quarter of a mile of the Queen’s Palace,
+Pimlico, is very large, but certainly not very handsome.  The _Grosvenor
+Hotel_, attached to it, may rank among the finest in the metropolis.  The
+Brighton, the Chatham and Dover, and the Great Western, are accommodated
+at this station, where both the broad and narrow gauges are laid down.
+The railway leads thence, to join the Brighton at Sydenham and Norwood,
+by a railway-bridge across the Thames; it has stations at Battersea,
+Wandsworth, Balham, Streatham, Norwood, and the Crystal Palace; and
+throws off branches to meet the lines of the other three companies above
+named.
+
+_London_, _Brighton_, _and South Coast Railway_ has for its terminus a
+portion of the great London Bridge Station, contiguous to which a hotel
+has been constructed.  It also has termini at Victoria and Kensington.
+The line leads nearly due south to the sea at Brighton, and then along
+the sea-coast, from Hastings in the east to Portsmouth in the west.
+There are also several branches to accommodate Surrey and Sussex.  Taken
+altogether, this is the most remarkable _pleasure-line_ in England,—the
+traffic of this kind between London and Brighton being something
+marvellous.
+
+_South-Eastern Railway_ has another portion of the large but incongruous
+London Bridge Station in its possession.  The seaside termini of the line
+are at Margate, Ramsgate, Deal, Dover, and Hastings.  The Greenwich and
+North Kent branches are important feeders; while there are others of less
+value.  The company have spent a vast sum of money in extending their
+line to the north of the Thames—by forming a city station in Cannon
+Street, with a bridge over the river midway between London and Southwark
+Bridges; and a West-end Station at Charing Cross, with a bridge over the
+river at (what was till lately) Hungerford Market.  There is also a
+connection with the South-Western terminus in the Waterloo Road.  The
+company have been forced to pay a sum of £300,000 for St. Thomas’s
+Hospital, as the only means of insuring a convenient course for this
+extension—a striking instance of the stupendous scale on which railway
+operations are now conducted.
+
+_London_, _Chatham_, _and Dover Railway_ is a very costly enterprise.  It
+may be said to start from two junctions with the Metropolitan, has a
+large station near Ludgate Hill, (involving great destruction of
+property,) crosses the Thames a little eastward of Blackfriars Bridge,
+and proceeds through Surrey and Kent to Sydenham, Bromley, Crays,
+Sevenoaks, Chatham, Sheerness, Faversham, Herne Bay, Margate, Ramsgate,
+Canterbury, Dover Pier, &c.  It also comprises a curvilinear line from
+Ludgate to Pimlico, with stations at Blackfriars, Newington, Walworth,
+Camberwell, Loughborough Road, Brixton, Clapham, Wandsworth Road, and
+Battersea; and a branch to Peckham, Nunhead, and the Crystal Palace.
+
+_Blackwall Railway_, with which is associated the _Tilbury and Southend_,
+has its terminus in Fenchurch Street.  The station is small and
+unattractive; but it accommodates a wonderful amount of passenger
+traffic.  The original line extended only from London to Blackwall, with
+intermediate stations at Shadwell, Stepney, Limehouse, West India Docks,
+and Poplar.  An important branch from Stepney to Bow establishes a
+connection with the Great Eastern Railway valuable to both companies.  At
+Stepney also begins the Tilbury and Southend line, passing through
+Bromley, Barking, and numerous other places.  Accommodation is provided,
+a little way from the Fenchurch Street Station, for a large amount of
+goods traffic.  The line is now leased in perpetuity to the Great Eastern
+Company.
+
+_Great Eastern Railway_ has its terminus in Bishopsgate Street, or rather
+Shoreditch, and a large depôt and station at Stratford.  The Shoreditch
+station is large.  This terminus, however, will shortly be removed to
+Broad Street, City.  The lines of this company are numerous, and ramify
+in many directions towards the east, north-east, and north.  Its terminal
+points (with those of the associated companies) at present
+are—Peterborough, Hunstanton, Wells, Yarmouth, Aldborough, and Harwich;
+with less distant termini at Ongar and North Woolwich.
+
+_North London Railway_, consisting wholly of viaduct and cutting, has its
+terminus at Broad Street, Finsbury.  All its stations are considered to
+be in London.  It joins the London and North-Western near Primrose Hill,
+and the Blackwall at Stepney.  It has intermediate stations at Camden
+Road, Caledonian Road, Islington, Cannonbury, Kingsland, Dalston,
+Hackney, Victoria Park, and Bow.  Trains run every quarter of an hour, in
+both directions, at fares varying from 2d. to 4d.; and the number of
+passengers is immense.
+
+_Metropolitan Railway_, from Finsbury to Paddington, is a very remarkable
+one, nearly all tunnel, and requiring the carriages to be constantly
+lighted with gas.  It runs from Westminster Bridge, _viâ_ Pimlico,
+Brompton, Kensington, Notting Hill, and Bayswater, to Paddington, where
+it joins the Great Western.  It then goes under Praed Street and the New
+Road to King’s Cross.  There it joins the Great Northern, and thence goes
+on to Holborn Bridge, Smithfield Dead Meat Market, and Moorgate Street.
+Since the opening of the Metropolitan District Extension Railway, you can
+go at present (July, 1870) from the Mansion House, under the Northern
+Thames Embankment, before described, to Westminster Bridge, &c.  There
+are stations near the Mansion House, the terminus; at Blackfriars, the
+Temple, Charing Cross, and Westminster.
+
+_Steamers_ and _Steamboat Piers_ have been already referred to.
+
+
+
+
+SHORT EXCURSIONS.
+
+
+WE shall now direct the stranger’s attention to a few places of interest
+easily accessible from the metropolis—beginning with those situated
+westward, or up the river.
+
+
+
+UP THE RIVER.
+
+
+                       [Picture: Chelsea Hospital]
+
+Chelsea.—Chelsea, once a village, is now a part of the metropolis,
+Pimlico and Belgravia having supplied the intervening link.  During the
+last century a pleasant ramble across the fields was much in favour to
+the _Chelsea bunhouse_; but no one thinks of Chelsea now, except as part
+of London.  Sloane Square and Street, and Hans Place, were named after
+Sir Hans Sloane, who lived in that neighbourhood.  The chief place of
+interest at Chelsea is the _Hospital_ for retired invalid soldiers, an
+institution similar to the asylum for old seamen at Greenwich.  The
+hospital, which is situated on a flat stretch of ground bordering the
+Thames, and was planned by Sir Christopher Wren, consists chiefly of one
+large edifice of red brick, several stories in height, forming a centre
+and two wings, or three sides of a square, with the open side towards the
+bank of the Thames.  On the north, in which is the main entrance, the
+style of architecture is simple, being ornamented with only a plain
+portico.  The inner part of the centre building is more decorated, there
+being here a piazza of good proportions, forming a sheltered walk for the
+veteran inmates.  In the centre of the open square stands a statue, by
+Grinling Gibbons, of Charles II., in whose time the hospital took its
+rise.  The only parts of the structure considered worthy to be shewn to
+strangers are the chapel and old dining-hall, both in the central
+building.  The chapel is neat and plain in appearance; the rows of
+benches being furnished with prayer-books and hassocks, and the floor
+being paved with chequered marble.  Above the communion-table is a
+painting of the Ascension, by Sebastian Ricci.  The dining-hall is
+equally spacious, but is now disused as a refectory.  In the hall and
+chapel are about 100 flags, taken by British troops in various battles.
+The usual number of in-pensioners is about 500, and of out-pensioners not
+fewer than 60,000 to 70,000, who reside in all parts of the United
+Kingdom.  The former are provided with all necessaries, while the latter
+have each pensions varying according to their grade.  The inmates wear an
+antique garb of red cloth, in which they may be seen loitering about the
+neighbourhood.
+
+Near Sloane Square is situated a large building forming the _Royal
+Military Asylum_, familiarly called the _Duke of York’s School_, for the
+support and education of about 500 poor children, whose fathers were
+non-commissioned officers and privates in the army.  Each regiment of the
+British army contributes annually one day’s pay, to aid in supporting the
+institution.  Between Sloane Square and Chelsea Bridge is the fine new
+Barracks for the Foot Guards: the only handsome barrack structure in the
+metropolis.
+
+                    [Picture: Star and Garter, Putney]
+
+Chelsea to Chiswick.—_Battersea Park_, elsewhere described, is just
+opposite Chelsea.  Beyond the park are _Battersea_ and _Wandsworth_,
+places containing very few objects of interest; and backed by _Clapham_
+and _Wimbledon_, where many London merchants and tradesmen have their
+private residences.  Beyond Wandsworth lie _Putney_, _Barnes_, and
+_Mortlake_, where the river makes a great bend towards Kew.  Between
+Putney and Kew many _Regattas_, or boat-races, take place during the
+summer; especially the famous annual contest, from Putney to Mortlake,
+between the universities of Oxford and Cambridge: these are among the
+most pleasant of the up-river scenes.  Omnibuses, steamboats, and the
+South-Western Railway, give abundant accommodation to the places here
+named.  On the Middlesex side of the river, just beyond Chelsea, are
+_Cremorne Gardens_.  Next, we get into a region of Market-Gardens, from
+which London is supplied with vast quantities of fruit and vegetables.
+_Walham Green_, _Parson’s Green_, and _Fulham_, lie in the immediate
+vicinity of these gardens.  Strangers would find an hour or two
+pleasantly spent hereabouts.  The bishops of London have their palace at
+Fulham, a picturesque old structure.  After passing _Hammersmith_, where
+there is a pretty suspension bridge, we come to _Chiswick_, noted for its
+market-gardens; here is the house in which Hogarth died; and in the
+churchyard is his tomb, with an inscription by David Garrick.  The Duke
+of Sutherland has a fine mansion at Chiswick; and near at hand are the
+old gardens of the Horticultural Society.
+
+                    [Picture: Palm-House, Kew Gardens]
+
+Kew Gardens.—_Kew_ is one of the pleasantest villages near London.  When
+we have crossed the Thames from Brentford, by the bridge, we come upon
+the green, bounded on three sides by countryfied-looking houses, and on
+the fourth by the splendid gardens.  The place is very easily reached—by
+omnibuses from the city to the Middlesex end of the bridge; by steamers
+every half-hour during summer; and by trains from the Waterloo and the
+North London Stations.  It may be well to remember, however, that the
+so-called Kew Station is not actually at Kew.  There is another, however,
+near the Gardens.  By far the most interesting object at Kew is the
+famous _Botanic Gardens_.  This is a very beautiful establishment,
+maintained at the public expense.  It contains a rare collection of
+plants, obtained from all parts of the world, arranged and labelled in
+admirable order by Dr. Dalton Hooker.  The flower-beds, hot-houses, and
+conservatories, are very numerous.  The _great palm __house_, with its
+exotics, reaching to a height of 60 feet, and constructed at a cost of
+£30,000, forms a grand object.  The new _temperate-house_ was constructed
+from the designs of Mr. Burton; 212 feet long, 137 wide, and 60 high,
+with two wings 112 feet by 62.  Extensive new works have been
+added—including a lake having a communication with the Thames by a tunnel
+under the river-terrace, and a winter-garden, or enclosed conservatory,
+more than twice as large as the palm-house.  Three detached buildings
+have been fitted up as a _Museum of Economic Botany_.  The _Pleasure
+Grounds_ form a kind of Park contiguous to the Botanic Gardens; the
+gardens are 75 acres in extent, and the grounds 240 acres.  This
+beautiful place is freely open to the public in the afternoon, on Sundays
+as well as week-days, after one o’clock.
+
+                        [Picture: Richmond Bridge]
+
+Richmond.—_Richmond_ is a village situated on the south bank of the
+Thames, at about 9 miles by land from Hyde Park Corner, and 16 miles by
+following the windings of the river.  The most pleasant mode of
+conveyance to it used to be by one of the small steamboats from
+Hungerford Pier; for then an opportunity was afforded of seeing numerous
+beautiful and interesting spots on both banks of the river.  The river is
+now, however, so shallow, that steamers can seldom reach this spot; and
+the trip is usually made by railway—from the Waterloo and Vauxhall
+Stations, and from all stations on the Blackwall, North London, and North
+and South Western lines.  Omnibuses also run very frequently from the
+City and West End.  Richmond stands on a slope overhanging the river.
+Opposite the village is a stone bridge crossing the Thames.  South from
+the village, a pretty steep bank ascends to the green and bushy eminence
+called _Richmond Hill_; and from the terrace on its summit a view is
+obtained of the beautifully wooded country up the river, stretching away
+to Windsor.  Among numerous villas, ornamental grounds, and other
+attractive objects, may be seen _Twickenham_, situated in the immediate
+vicinity, on the left bank of the Thames.  In the house for which the
+present was erected as a substitute, lived Pope the poet, and his body is
+entombed in the church.  [Picture: Pope’s Villa] Close by Twickenham is
+_Strawberry Mill_, once the seat of Horace Walpole, and now belonging to
+Lady Waldegrave.  Moving onwards along the brow of the eminence, and
+passing the well known but expensive hotel called the _Star and Garter_,
+we enter the famous _Richmond Park_, which is eight miles in
+circumference, and enriched with magnificent trees.  These extensive
+grounds were at one time connected with a royal palace, but there is now
+no such edifice—one or two hunting-lodges excepted; the park is, however,
+still a domain of the Crown, and freely open to the public.  Foreigners
+are great admirers of this vicinity.
+
+                         [Picture: Hampton Court]
+
+Hampton Court.—_Hampton_ is about 13 miles from London by railway, and 24
+by water.  Trains run there very frequently, and at low fares, from
+Waterloo Station.  The village is unimportant, but rendered pleasant by
+its large and open green.  The chief object of attraction is _Hampton
+Court Palace_, situated within an enclosed garden near the north bank of
+the Thames.  The palace was originally built by Cardinal Wolsey, and a
+portion of the structure which he reared is still extant in the northern
+quadrangle.  Here was the scene of the humiliation and forfeiture of that
+favourite of Henry VIII., who at this place often held his court, and
+made it the scene of his Christmas festivities; there Edward VI. was
+born; here were held the masques, mummeries, and tournaments of Philip
+and Mary, and Elizabeth; here James I. held his court and famous meeting
+of controversialists; here Charles I. was immured as a state prisoner,
+and took leave of his children; here was celebrated the marriage of
+Cromwell’s daughter and Lord Falconberg; here Charles II. sojourned
+occasionally with his dissolute courtiers; here lived William and Mary
+after the revolution of 1688; and here, till the reign of George II.,
+royal courts were sometimes held.  The palace, in external appearance, is
+a lofty and magnificent structure of red brick, with stone cornices and
+dressings.  The older part, including the famous Great Hall, the scene of
+the court masques and revels, is of the time of Henry VIII.; the eastern
+part, including the public rooms and the long garden front, was built by
+Wren for William III.  Altogether, the edifice consists of three
+quadrangles.  Entering by the grand staircase, which is decorated with
+paintings by Antonio Verrio, the visitor is conducted through a suite of
+lofty and large apartments, furnished in an old-fashioned style.  The
+guard-room, which is first in order, contains, besides a series of
+English admirals by Kneller and Dahl, a variety of ancient warlike
+instruments.  In the next apartment are portraits of various beauties of
+Charles II.’s court, painted by Sir Peter Lely, who has here depicted
+several lovely countenances, though a sensual character is common to them
+all.  In the third room, or audience-chamber, is seen what is generally
+regarded as the finest painting in the palace—a portrait of Charles I. on
+horseback, by Vandyck.  The third room has also some good pictures; among
+others, a painting of the family of Louis Cornaro, a person celebrated
+for his extraordinary temperance.  The picture, which is from an original
+by Titian, shews Cornaro and three generations of descendants, who appear
+in the act of adoration at a shrine.  There are likewise portraits of
+Titian and his uncle, painted by Titian himself, and a spirited
+battle-piece by Giulio Romano.  The fourth apartment, or Queen’s
+drawing-room, is enriched with an exceedingly fine painting of Charles
+I., a whole length, by Vandyck, esteemed the best likeness we have of
+that monarch.  There is a well known and beautiful print from it by Sir
+Robert Strange, the prince of English line-engravers.  In the next room,
+or state bedchamber, the visitor will see a portrait of Ann Hyde,
+daughter of Hyde, Earl of Clarendon, and mother of the successive queens,
+Mary and Anne.  The Queen’s dressing-room and writing-closet, and Queen
+Mary’s state bedchamber, which follow, contain many fine pictures, by
+Holbein, Sir Peter Lely, Sebastian del Piombo, Leonardo da Vinci, Albert
+Durer, and others.  A series known as the Beauties of the Court of
+William and Mary comprises portraits (by Kneller) more staid than those
+of the court of Charles II., and, it must be admitted, more tame and
+dull.  After having traversed these stately and silent halls, one of
+which contains a valuable collection of historical portraits, the visitor
+is led out through the gallery lately containing the famous Cartoons of
+Raphael—which were transferred in 1865 to the South Kensington Museum.
+Another room contains a fine series of Cartoons by Andrea Mantegna.  The
+whole of the pictures at Hampton Court are little less than 1000 in
+number.
+
+The palace garden has a _Vinery_, where there is a grape vine ninety
+years old, which has sometimes yielded 3000 bunches of grapes in one
+year.  The garden also possesses a _Maze_, a source of great delight to
+holiday juveniles.  On the opposite side of the Hampton Wick Road from
+the palace gardens, is _Bushy Park_, a royal domain, embellished with an
+avenue of horse-chestnut trees, which present a splendid sight when in
+full bloom.  The palace grounds are also exceedingly beautiful.  Bushy
+Park is open for omnibuses and other vehicles, as well as for
+pedestrians.  The palace is open free every day except Friday, from 10
+till 4 or 6, according to the season; and the grounds or gardens till
+dusk.  This is one of the very few public buildings in or near the
+metropolis open on Sundays.
+
+Windsor.—Passing over the country between Hampton and Windsor, which does
+not comprise many spots interesting to strangers, we come to the famous
+royal domain.  _Windsor_ is situated in the county of Berks, at the
+distance of 22 miles west from London by the road through Brentford; but
+it may now be reached in an hour or less by the Great Western Railway
+from Paddington, or the South-Western from Waterloo Bridge.  Windsor
+occupies a rising-ground on the south bank of the Thames, and is
+interesting for its ancient and extensive castle, the grandest royal
+residence in this country.  The gates of the castle are close upon the
+main street of the town, and lead to enclosures containing a number of
+quadrangles, towers, gates, mansions, barracks, and other structures.
+[Picture: Round Tower, Windsor] The principal portion of the castle
+occupies two courts, an upper and lower, of spacious dimensions, and
+having between them a large round tower or keep, in which the governor
+resides.  The top of this keep is 220 feet above the Thames, and twelve
+counties can be seen from it in fine weather.  In the lower court is St.
+George’s Chapel, an elegant Gothic edifice, in which service is performed
+on Sundays, occasionally in presence of the royal residents.  Besides the
+chapel and keep, the chief parts of the castle attractive to strangers
+are the state apartments in the upper or northern court; these are
+exhibited _free_ to visitors on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and
+Fridays.  Tickets can be obtained of Messrs. Colnaghi, 13 and 14 Pall
+Mall East.  The days, hours, and conditions of visiting are notified on
+the tickets.  The apartments here meant are the _old_ state rooms, not
+those actually occupied by the Queen, her family, and retinue.
+
+                        [Picture: Windsor Castle]
+
+Outside the castle, facing the north, is the famed _terrace_, from which
+a view is obtained over a most beautiful expanse of country.  On another
+side are the new royal stables, the finest in England, having, with the
+Riding House, cost £70,000.  In the gardens immediately adjoining the
+Queen’s apartments, the royal family, before the death of the Prince
+Consort, were wont occasionally to promenade, at an hour when the public
+might see them.  The _Home Park_, bounding the palace on two sides, is
+not open to the public; but the _Great Park_ is freely open, to persons
+on foot, on horseback, or in vehicles.  The _Long Walk_ through this
+park, extending 3 miles, is one of the finest things of the kind in
+England.
+
+                         [Picture: Eton College]
+
+_Eton College_, with its school-rooms for 900 boys, chapel, quadrangles,
+and playing-fields, lies beautifully situated opposite Windsor Castle.
+
+A ramble from the Slough Station, near Eton, would take a visitor to the
+scenes rendered memorable by Gray’s _Elegy_.
+
+
+
+DOWN THE RIVER.
+
+
+Deptford.—This was once of some importance as a shipbuilding place, a
+dockyard having been established here ever since the time of Henry VIII.;
+but the government establishments have recently been given up to the
+victualling and store departments.  Deptford may now be considered part
+of the metropolis—and a very dirty part it is, containing few objects
+that would interest a stranger.  Peter the Great of Russia studied as a
+shipwright at Deptford dockyard in 1698, to fit himself for creating a
+Russian navy.
+
+                           [Picture: Greenwich]
+
+Greenwich.—This favourite place lies on the south bank of the Thames, a
+little below Deptford, about six miles below London Bridge, following the
+windings of the river, but only about four miles by railway, from the
+London Bridge Station.  It is noted for the _Trafalgar_, _Ship_, _Crown
+and Sceptre_, and other taverns, where _whitebait dinners_ have become
+celebrated.  Diners at these places, however, will require long purses.
+Greenwich is chiefly interesting, however, for its national
+establishments.  Towards its eastern extremity stands the _Hospital_,
+which faces the Thames, and has a command of all that passes on the
+river.  This superb hospital consists of four edifices, unconnected with
+each other, but apparently forming an entire structure, lining three
+sides of an open square, the fourth side being next the water.  It is
+mostly built of stone, in majestic style; and along nearly the greater
+part are lofty colonnades, with handsome pillars, and covered overhead,
+to protect those underneath from the weather.  The square interval in the
+centre, which is 273 feet wide, has in the middle a statue of George II.,
+by Rysbrach.  A portion of these beautiful buildings was originally
+planned by Inigo Jones, another portion by Sir C. Wren, and the rest by
+later architects.  It was William and Mary who, in the year 1694, here
+established an hospital for superannuated and disabled seamen, to which
+purpose the buildings were till lately devoted.  The institution is
+supported by the interest on £2,800,000, funded property, the rental of
+estates in the north of England, and a national grant.  In 1865 it
+accommodated about 1300 pensioners, 150 nurses, and a variety of officers
+for the government of the place.  The inmates were old sailors, with
+countenances well browned by tropical suns, or bleached by the tempests
+of the ocean; here one hobbling on a wooden leg, there one with an empty
+sleeve, and occasionally one with only one eye.  Their clothes were of a
+dark-blue colour, of an antiquated fashion.  Their old cocked-hats had
+been superseded by hats of more modern shape; the boatswains, or other
+warrant-officers, being allowed a yellow trimming or lace to their
+garments.  An abundance of food was allowed, the clothing warm and
+comfortable, the accommodations in the rooms good; and each man,
+according to his rank, had from three to five shillings a-week, as an
+allowance for pocket-money.  The outer gateway, and the interior parts of
+this establishment, were under the care of the pensioners themselves, who
+shewed the utmost attention to strangers, manifesting a frankness and
+good-nature characteristic of the profession of the sailor.  Small sums
+were taken for exhibiting some of the buildings, but the money went to
+the general fund, or for the board and education of the children of
+seamen.  The visitor did not fail to glance into the _refectory_ and
+_kitchen_, which were freely open, and see the old men at their meals.
+
+It may seem singular thus to speak of this famous establishment in the
+_past_ tense; but in truth the purpose of Greenwich Hospital is changed.
+By an arrangement made in 1865, nearly all the pensioners (except sick
+and decrepit) have left the building, with a greatly increased
+money-allowance; most of them now living with their relations or friends.
+
+               [Picture: Painted Hall, Greenwich Hospital]
+
+One attractive part of the establishment is the _Painted Hall_, in the
+west wing.  It consists of a great room and one smaller, a vestibule, and
+a flight of steps.  The appearance of the whole interior, on entering, is
+very imposing, the ceiling and one end being covered with paintings; and
+although these paintings, exhibiting a mixture of fantastic heathen gods
+and goddesses with royal and other portraits, are not in judicious taste,
+they serve to give a good general effect to the noble apartment.  Along
+the walls are hung a collection of pictures, partly portraits of
+celebrated navigators and admirals, and partly depicting distinguished
+naval victories: each being a present to the institution by some
+benefactor.  A good portrait of Captain Cook, by Dance, presented by Sir
+Joseph Banks, adorns the vestibule.  A number of portraits, by Sir Peter
+Lely, Dahl, Sir Godfrey Kneller, and others, were presented by George IV.
+There are also several by Sir Joshua Reynolds.  The painted ceiling of
+the great room was executed by Sir James Thornhill in 1703 and subsequent
+years.  It is related that, in consequence of the length of time he had
+to lie on his back painting the ceiling, the artist could never
+afterwards sit upright.  In the smaller apartment are shewn several
+models of ships of war, admirably executed; the coat worn by Nelson at
+the battle of the Nile; the astrolabe of Sir Francis Drake, a curious
+brass instrument of antique fashion, used for nautical observation; and
+some interesting relics of the ill-fated voyage of Sir John Franklin.
+The Hall is open free to the public on Monday and Friday; on other days
+the charge is 4d.  On Sunday it may be seen after morning-service.  The
+_Chapel_ is also worth a visit; it contains a fine picture by Benjamin
+West, the ‘Shipwreck of St. Paul;’ and monuments to two admirals, by
+Chantrey and Behnes.  A monument or obelisk to the memory of Lieutenant
+Bellot, who perished in one of the Arctic Expeditions, has been placed on
+the noble Hospital-terrace, fronting the river.
+
+The _Park_, extending behind the hospital—open free to the public until
+dusk—comprehends a considerable space of ground, nearly 200 acres, of
+great natural and artificial beauty.  A pathway amidst lines of tall
+trees leads to a piece of rising-ground or mount, which, on holidays,
+generally exhibits a mirthful scene, in which ‘running down Greenwich
+hill’ plays a great part.  On the summit is the _Royal Observatory_,
+founded by George III. for the promotion of astronomical science, and the
+scene of the labours of some men of distinguished ability.  An
+astronomer-royal, supported by a parliamentary grant, constantly resides
+and pursues investigations in the Observatory.  From this spot British
+geographers measure the longitude.  The collection of instruments kept
+and used in this building is superb and costly; but the public are not
+admitted to see them.  An electric _time-ball_ falls every day at one
+o’clock precisely; and an _electric clock_, a _standard barometer_, and
+_standard measures of length_, (of rigorous accuracy,) are placed for
+public use by the side of the entrance-gates.
+
+Limehouse to North Woolwich.—If a stranger be willing to lay aside the
+ideas of mere _pleasure_ spots, he will find much to look at and think
+about in the stretch of river margin here denoted.  First comes the _Isle
+of Dogs_, joining Limehouse on the east.  This strange horseshoe-shaped
+piece of ground is almost wholly below the level of the river, the
+inroads of which are only prevented by embankments.  The northern neck of
+the peninsula (for it is not strictly an island) is occupied by the West
+India Docks; the middle portion is not much appropriated to any useful
+purpose, on account of the lowness of the site; the river edge is fringed
+with shipbuilding and factory establishments.  The _Great Eastern_ was
+here built at Messrs. Scott Russell’s works.  A new church has been built
+at _Cubitt Town_, the name now given to the eastern part of the Isle.
+Next below the Isle of Dogs are _Poplar_ and _Blackwall_, now forming one
+town—observable for the shipyard of Messrs. Green, the terminus of the
+Blackwall Railway, the East India Docks, and two or three river-side
+taverns where _whitebait dinners_ are much in fashion during the season.
+Then comes the spot, Bow Creek, at which the River Lea enters the Thames,
+so closely hemmed in by shipyards and engine-factories, that the Lea
+itself can barely be seen.  The great shipyard of the Thames Company,
+late Messrs. Mare’s, is situated here.  Next we come to the extensive and
+convenient _Victoria Docks_, occupying ground which was previously mere
+waste.  Beyond the Docks are new centres of population gradually
+springing up, called _Silvertown_ and _North Woolwich_, with large
+factories and a railway station.  Still farther east, near _Barking
+Creek_, there may be seen the vast outfall of the great system of
+drainage for the northern half of the metropolis.
+
+Woolwich.—Taking the south side of the river instead of the north, and
+availing himself of steamers or of trains, (from Charing Cross, Fenchurch
+Street, or Shoreditch,) the stranger finds the next place of importance
+below Greenwich to be _Woolwich_.  This is a busy town in Kent, eight
+miles from London by land, and ten following the course of the river.
+Here, in the reign of Henry VIII., a dockyard for the construction of
+vessels of the royal navy was established; and ever since that time the
+place has been distinguished as an arsenal for naval and military stores.
+The dockyard was closed 1st October, 1869.  From the river, a view is
+obtained of the arsenal, now greatly improved.  The ground of the
+arsenal, for nearly a mile in length, is bounded on the river side by a
+stone quay, and is occupied in part by prodigious ranges of storehouses
+and workshops.  Among these is included a laboratory for the preparation
+of cartridges, bombs, grenades, and shot; a splendid manufactory for
+shells and guns; a gun-carriage factory of vast extent; and a store of
+warlike material that never fails to fill a stranger with amazement.
+Adjoining are barracks for artillery and marines, military hospitals, &c.
+On the upper part of Woolwich Common is situated a royal military academy
+for the education of young gentlemen designed for the army.  Strangers
+(if not foreigners) are admitted to the arsenal only by a written order
+from the War Office.  The number of government establishments in and near
+Woolwich is very large; and there is generally something or other going
+on which a stranger would be interested in seeing.
+
+                           [Picture: Woolwich]
+
+Below Woolwich.—Numerous steamers during the day, trains on the Tilbury
+Railway, and others on the North Kent Railway, give easy access to a
+number of pleasant places lower down the river than Woolwich.  On the
+Essex side are _Rainham_, near which onion gardens are kept up;
+_Purfleet_, where vast stores of government gunpowder are kept; _Grays_,
+where immense quantities of chalk are dug, and where copious springs of
+very pure water are found in the chalk beds; and _Tilbury_, where there
+is a regular fortification for the defence of the river, and a
+steam-ferry over to Gravesend.  [Picture: Tilbury Fort] On the Kent side
+are _Plumstead Marshes_, where artillery practice by Woolwich officers is
+carried on; _Crossness Point_, where the fine buildings connected with
+the Southern Outfall Sewer are situated, (and near which were the great
+Powder Magazines that blew up in October, 1864;) _Erith_, with its pretty
+wooded heights; _Greenhithe_, where the late General Havelock passed some
+of his early years, and where Alderman Harmer built a mansion with the
+stones of old London Bridge; and _Northfleet_, where much shipbuilding is
+carried on.  Beyond Northfleet is _Gravesend_, a famous place for Cockney
+picnics, but fast losing its rural character.  Commercially, Gravesend is
+important as being the place where the customs’ authorities recognise the
+port of London to begin; all ships, incoming and outgoing, are visited by
+the officers here, pilots embark and disembark, and much trade accrues to
+the town in consequence.
+
+                        [Picture: Gravesend Reach]
+
+
+
+CRYSTAL PALACE, &c.
+
+
+There are many pretty spots in different directions in the vicinity of
+London, away from the river, worthy of a visit.  On the north-west are
+_Hampstead_, with its noble Heath and its charming variety of landscape
+scenery; and _Harrow_, with its famous old school, associated with the
+memory of Byron, Peel, and many other eminent men.  To its churchyard
+Byron was a frequent visitor: “There is,” he wrote to a friend in after
+years, “a spot in the churchyard, near the footpath on the brow of the
+hill looking towards Windsor, and a tomb (bearing the name of Peachey)
+under a large tree, where I used to sit for hours and hours when a boy.”
+Nearly northward are _Highgate_, with its fringe of woods, and its
+remarkable series of ponds; _Finchley_, once celebrated for its
+highwaymen, but now for its cemeteries; _Hornsey_, with its ivy-clad
+church, and its pretty winding New River; and _Barnet_, with its great
+annual fair.  On the north-east are _Edmonton_, which the readers of
+‘_John Gilpin_’ will of course never forget; _Enfield_, where the
+government manufacture rifles on a vast scale; _Waltham_, notable for its
+abbey and its gunpowder mills; and _Epping Forest_—a boon to picnic
+parties from the eastern half of London.  ‘Fairlop Oak’ (Hainault Forest)
+has disappeared.
+
+South of the Thames, likewise, there are many pretty spots, quite
+distinct from those on the river’s bank.  _Wimbledon_, where volunteers
+assemble; _Mitcham_, near which are some interesting herb-gardens;
+_Norwood_, a pleasant spot, from which London can be well seen;
+_Lewisham_ and _Bromley_, surrounded by many pretty bits of scenery;
+_Blackheath_, a famous place for golf and other outdoor games; _Eltham_,
+where a bit of King John’s palace is still to be seen; the _Crays_, a
+string of picturesque villages on the banks of the river Cray; &c.
+_Dulwich_ is a village about 5 miles south of London Bridge.  Here Edward
+Alleyn, or Allen, a distinguished actor in the reign of James I., founded
+and endowed an hospital or college, called _Dulwich College_, for the
+residence and support of poor persons, under certain limitations.  On
+21st June, 1870, a new college, a modern development and extension of the
+old charity, was formally opened by the Prince and Princess of Wales.
+The new buildings are entirely devoted to educational purposes, and they
+have accommodation for 600 or 700 boys.  The founder bequeathed some
+pictures to the institution, and the collection was vastly increased by
+the addition of a large number, chiefly of the Dutch and Flemish schools,
+bequeathed in 1810 by Sir Francis Bourgeois.  A gallery, designed by Sir
+John Soane, was opened in 1817; and this now forms a most attractive
+sight to all who delight in the fine arts.  The gallery is open free
+every week-day from 10 to 5 in summer, and from 10 to 4 in winter.
+
+Crystal Palace.—One especial object of interest in the southern vicinity
+of London is the far-famed _Crystal Palace_.  This structure, in many
+respects one of the most remarkable in the world, owed its existence to
+the Great Exhibition of 1851 in Hyde Park.  The materials of that
+building being sold to a new company towards the close of that year, were
+transferred to an elevated spot near Sydenham, about 7 miles from London.
+The intention was to found a palace and park for the exhibition of
+objects in art and science, and to make it self-paying.  The original
+estimate was £500,000, but the expenditure reached nearly £1,500,000—too
+great to render a profitable return likely.  The palace and grounds were
+opened in 1854; the water-towers and great fountains some time
+afterwards.  The marvels of this unparalleled structure cannot be
+described within a limited space.  [Picture: Crystal Palace] The building
+is about 1600 feet long, 380 wide, and, at the centre transept, nearly
+200 high.  It consists of a nave and three transepts, all with arched
+roofs, and all made chiefly of iron and glass.  Within, the building
+consists of a central nave, having marble fountains near the two ends,
+and lined with statues and plants throughout its whole length.  On each
+side of the nave are compartments to illustrate the sculpture and
+architecture of different ages and countries; such as Greek, Roman,
+Assyrian, Pompeian, Egyptian, Alhambraic or Saracenic, Romanesque,
+Byzantine, Mediæval, in its English, French, and German varieties,
+Renaissance, Palladian, and Elizabethan.  Other compartments illustrate
+certain industrial groups, such as cutlery, porcelain, paper, encaustic
+tiles, &c.  On the first gallery are large collections of pictures,
+photographs, and casts from medallions and small works of art.  Near the
+centre transept are all the necessary arrangements for two
+concert-rooms—one on a stupendous scale, in which 5000 singers and
+instrumentalists can sometimes be heard at once.  [Picture: Interior,
+Crystal Palace] An orchestra of unparalleled dimensions is constructed
+here for great festival commemorations, and similar musical meetings.
+The botanical collection within the building is very fine; and to
+preserve the exotic plants, one end of the building is maintained at a
+high temperature all the year round.  Some portions of the galleries are
+let out as stalls or bazaars to shopkeepers; and very extensive
+arrangements are made for supplying refreshments.  In an upper gallery is
+a museum of raw produce.  In long galleries in the basement are exhibited
+agricultural implements, and cotton and other machinery in motion.
+
+                   [Picture: Crystal Palace Fountains]
+
+The park and gardens are extensive, occupying nearly 200 acres; they are
+beautifully arranged, and contain an extremely fine collection of flowers
+and other plants, occupying parterres separated by broad gravel-walks.
+The terraces, stone balustrades, wide steps, and sculptures, are all on a
+very grand scale.  The fountains are perhaps the finest in the world,
+some of them sending up magnificent streams of water to a great height,
+and some displaying thousands of minute glittering jets interlacing in
+the most graceful manner.  A portion of the water is made to imitate
+cascades and waterfalls.  The jet from the central basin rises to 150
+feet; and those from the two great basins to 250 feet.  There are two
+cascades, each 450 feet long, 100 wide, and having a tall of 12 feet.
+When the whole of the waterworks are playing, there are 12,000 jets in
+all; and when this continues for the length of time customary on some of
+the ‘grand days,’ the water consumed is said to amount to 6,000,000
+gallons.  Two water-towers of enormous height, (nearly 300 feet from the
+foundations,) to which water is pumped up by steam-engines, supply the
+water-pressure by which the fountains are fed.  The illustrations of
+extinct animals and of geology, in the lower part of the grounds, are
+curious and instructive.
+
+Railway trains, running frequently during the day, give access to the
+Crystal Palace, from the Pimlico and London Bridge stations of the
+Brighton Company, from the Kensington and Chelsea stations of the West
+London Railway, from the Waterloo station of the South-Western _viâ_
+Wimbledon, and from the Ludgate Hill and other stations of the Chatham
+and Dover.  The last-named company have built an elegant and convenient
+‘high-level’ station, in front of the main centre transept.  The Crystal
+Palace is a shilling exhibition; but the greater number of visitors only
+pay 1s. 6d. each for a ticket (third class) which insures admission to
+the palace and grounds, and the railway journey there and back; first and
+second class tickets are higher; and there are days on which admission to
+the palace is also higher.  A whole week might be spent in examining the
+various treasures; for the Crystal Palace and grounds are interesting in
+each of the following features:—Sculpture; Illustrations of Architecture;
+Pictures and Photographs; Illustrations of Mechanics and Manufactures;
+Botany; Ethnology, or Illustrations of National Characteristics;
+Palæontology, or Extinct Animals; Geology; Hydraulic skill in the
+Fountains; and Musical facilities of an unprecedented kind.  There are
+also facilities in the grounds for Cricket, Archery, Boating, Athletic
+Exercises, and Sports of other kinds, either regularly or occasionally.
+The directors must be credited with the undoubted excellence of their
+Choral Festivals and Orchestral Concerts.  For great holiday
+demonstrations, too, there is nothing else at all equal to the Crystal
+Palace in the kingdom; and railways give access to it from almost every
+part of the metropolis.
+
+Alexandra Park and Palace.—This is situated on the north side of London,
+near Hornsey, and is reached by means of the Great Northern Railway.  It
+has long remained closed for want of funds, but is expected to be opened
+in June.  Its objects, &c., are similar to those of the Crystal Palace.
+The building was erected from the remains of the Exhibition of 1862.
+
+                        [Picture: Albert Memorial]
+
+ [Picture: London Stone.  Supposed to be an ancient Roman terminal stone,
+  whence, as from a centre, the miles were reckoned throughout Britain.]
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+TABLES, LISTS, AND USEFUL HINTS.
+
+
+Suburban Towns and Villages within Twelve Miles’ Railway-distance.
+
+
+THE distances are measured from the terminal stations of the great
+Companies’ lines.  The names of these stations are abbreviated thus:
+
+_Padd._—Paddington; Great Western.
+
+_Eust._—Euston Square; London and North Western.
+
+_K. C._—King’s Cross; Great Northern.
+
+_Shore._—Shoreditch; Great Eastern.
+
+_Fen._—Fenchurch Street; London and Blackwall.
+
+_L. B._—London Bridge; South-Eastern, and London and Brighton.
+
+_Wat._—Waterloo; London and South-Western.
+
+_Vic._—Victoria or Pimlico; Crystal Palace and other railways.
+
+_N. L._—North London.
+
+_Lud._—Ludgate Hill; London, Chatham, and Dover.
+
+_St. Panc._—St. Pancras; Midland.
+
+The places accommodated by the North London Railway have no mileage
+distances named; for all the stations on that line are equally within the
+metropolitan limits.  The Metropolitan Railway is not here mentioned at
+all, for a similar reason.  For all stations on the South-Eastern, the
+distance from Charing Cross is about 1¾ miles farther than from London
+Bridge.  On the Chatham and Dover, most of the stations are about
+equidistant from the Ludgate and Victoria termini.  The places reached by
+steamers are marked _St._; while _Om._ signifies Omnibus, in cases where
+there is no very available railway route.  When a town is some little
+distance from the nearest station, two mileages are named: thus,
+‘Beddington, 10½ Croydon + 2½,’ implies that after a railway journey of
+10½ miles to Croydon, there are 2½ miles of road.
+
+Abbey Wood, Kent        L. B.                   12
+Acton, Midd. from all N. L. Stations.
+Anerley, Surrey         L. B.                   7½
+Balham, Surrey          Vic.                    5
+—                       L. B.                   11
+Barking, Essex          Shore. & Fen.           7
+Barking Road, Essex     Shore. & Fen.           5
+Barnes, Surrey          Wat.                    7
+—, from all N. L Stations.
+Barnet, Herts.          K. C.                   10½
+Battersea, Surrey       St. & Om.
+Battersea Park          Vic.                    1
+Beckenham, Kent         L. B.                   9
+—                       Lud. & Vic.             10
+Beddington, Surr.       L. B.                   10½ Croydon +2½
+Bickley, Kent           Lud. & Vic.             13
+—                       L. B.                   12
+Blackheath, Kent        L. B.                   6
+Blackwall, Middlesex    Fen.                    4½
+—                       St. & Om.
+Bow, Middlesex          Fen. & Shore            4
+Brentford, Middlesex    Wat.                    10
+—                       Padd.                   13
+Brixton, Surrey         Vic.                    3
+—                       Lud.                    4
+Bromley, Kent           L. B.                   10
+—                       Lud. & Vic.             11
+—, Middlesex            Fen.                    4
+Buckhurst Hill, Essex   Fen. & Shore.           10
+Bushey Park, Midd.      Wat.                    13
+Camberwell, Surrey      Lud. & Vic.             4
+Carshalton, Surrey      L. B.                   12
+Catford Bridge, Kent    L. B.                   6
+Charlton, Kent          L. B.                   7
+—                       St.
+Chelsea, Middlesex      St. & Om.
+Chigwell, Essex         Fen. & Shore, to
+                        Ilford or Woodford.
+Chiswick, Middlesex     Wat.                    8
+Clapham, Surrey         Wat.                    4
+—                       Vic.                    2½
+Clapton, Midd., from all N. L. Stations to Hackney.
+Colney Hatch, Midd.     K. C.                   6
+Crouch End, Midd.       K. C.                   4 Hornsey + 1½
+Croydon, Surrey         L. B.                   10½
+—                       Vic.                    12
+Crystal Palace,         L. B.                   7
+Surrey
+—                       Vic.                    9
+—                       Lud.                    9
+Dalston, Middlesex, all N. L. Stations.
+Deptford, Kent          L. B.                   3½
+Ditton, Surrey          Wat.                    12 Kingston + 2
+Dulwich, Surrey         Lud. & Vic.             5
+Ealing, Middlesex       Padd.                   6
+East Ham, Essex         Fen.                    6
+Edgeware, Middlesex     K. C. & Om.             8½
+Edmonton, Middlesex     Shore.                  9½
+Elstree, Herts          St. Panc. & Om.         11
+Eltham, Kent            L. B.                   6 Blackheath + 2
+Enfield, Middlesex      Shore.                  12
+Finchley, Middlesex, from all N. L. Stations to Finchley Road.
+—                       K. C.                   7¼
+Forest Gate, Essex      Shore.                  5
+Forest Hill, Surrey     Vic.                    11
+—                       L. B.                   5
+Fulham, Middlesex       Wat.                    6 Putney + ½
+—                       St. & Om.
+Gipsy Hill, Surrey      L. B.                   8
+—                       Vic.                    8
+Greenwich, Kent         L. B.                   4½
+—                       St. & Om.
+Hackney, Midd., from all N. L. Stations.
+Hadley, Midd.           K. C.                   10 Barnet + 1
+Ham, Surrey,            Wat.                    12 Kingston + 2
+Hammersmith, Midd., from all N. L. and Metropolitan Stations.
+—                       St. & Om.
+Hampstead, Midd., from all N. L. Stations.
+Hanwell, Middlesex      Padd.                   7½
+Harlington, Midd.       Padd.                   9 Southall + 3½
+Harrow, Middlesex       Eust.                   12
+Hatcham, Kent           L. B.                   4
+Hayes, Kent             L. B.                   10 Bromley + 2
+—, Midd.                Padd.                   7 Hanwell + 3
+Hendon, Midd.           St. Panc. & Om          7
+Herne Hill, Surrey      Lud. & Vic.             6
+Highgate, Middlesex     K. C.                   4¾
+—                       Om.
+Holloway, Middlesex     K. C.                   2
+Homerton, Midd., from all N. L. Stations to Hackney.
+Hornsey, Middlesex      K. C.                   4
+Hounslow, Middlesex     Wat.                    12
+Ilford, Essex           Shore.                  7
+Isleworth, Middlesex    Wat.                    12
+Kensal Green, Midd., from N. L. Stations.
+Kensington, Midd., from Metrop Stats.
+Kentish Town, Middlesex from all N. L. Stations.
+Keston, Kent            L. B.                   10 Bromley + 4
+Kew, Surrey             Wat.                    9
+—, from all N. L. Stations.
+—                       St. & Om.
+Kilburn, Middlesex      Eust.                   3
+Kingsland, Midd., from all N. L. Stations.
+Kingston, Surrey        Wat.                    12
+Lady Well, Kent         L. B.                   5
+Lea Bridge, Essex       Shore.                  5½
+Lee, Kent               L. B.                   6 Blackheath + 1
+Lewisham, Kent          L B.                    5
+Leytonstone, Essex      Shore. & Fen.           6
+Loughton, Essex         Shore. & Fen.           12
+Low Leyton, Essex       Shore. & Fen.           5
+Maldon, Surrey          Wat.                    10
+Merton, Surrey          Wat.                    9
+Mill Hill, Middlesex    K. C.                   8¼; Om. 7
+Mims, Midd.             K. C.                   12 Potter’s Bar + 2
+Mitcham, Surrey         Wat.                    10
+—                       L. B.                   10½ Croydon + 4
+Morden, Surrey          Wat.                    8 Wimbledon + 2
+Mortlake, Surrey        Wat.                    8
+Muswell Hill, Midd.     K. C.                   4 Hornsey + 1½
+New Cross, Kent         L. B.                   3
+North Woolwich, Ess.    Shore. & Fen.           7
+—                       St.
+Norwood, Surrey         L. B.                   8½
+—                       Vic.                    8
+Parson’s Green,         Om.                     4
+Middlesex
+Peckham, Surrey         Lud.                    5
+Penge, Surrey           L. B.                   7
+—                       Lud. & Vic.             9
+Plaistow, Essex.        Fen.                    5
+Plumstead, Kent         L. B.                   10
+Ponders’s End, Midd.    Shore.                  12
+Poplar, Middlesex       Fen.                    4
+Potters’s Bar, Midd.    K. C.                   12
+Putney, Surrey          Wat.                    6
+—                       St. & Om.
+Richmond, Surrey        Wat.                    10
+— from all N. L. Stations.
+—                       St. & Om.
+Roehampton, Surr.       Wat.                    6 Putney + 1½
+Romford, Essex          Shore.                  12
+Shacklewell, Midd.      Om.                     3
+Shepherd’s Bush,        Metrop.  Stats.
+Midd.
+Shooter’s Hill, Kent    L. B.                   9 Woolwich + 2
+Shortlands, Kent        L. B.                   10
+—                       Lud. & Vic.             10
+Snaresbrook, Essex      Fen. & Shore.           7
+Southall, Middlesex     Padd.                   9
+Southgate, Middlesex    K. C.                   7
+Stamford Hill, Midd.    Om.                     4
+Stanmore, Middlesex     Om.                     10
+Stepney, Midd. from all N. L. Stations.
+Stockwell, Surrey       Om.                     4
+Stoke Newington, Midd. from all N. L. Stations.
+Stratford, Essex        Shore. & Fen.           4
+Streatham, Surrey       L. B.                   10
+—                       Vic.                    6
+Teddington, and         Wat.                    13
+Bushey Park
+Thornton Heath, Surr.   Vic.                    9
+Tooting, Surrey         L. B., Vic. & Lud.      8
+Tottenham, Middlesex    Shore.                  8
+Totteridge, Herts.      K. C.                   10½ Barnet + 2
+Turnham Green, Midd.    Om.                     5
+— from all N. L. Stations, Wat. and Lud.
+Twickenham, Midd.       Wat.                    11¼
+— from all N. L. Stations.
+Vauxhall, Surrey        Wat.                    1½
+—                       St.
+Walham Green, Midd.     Om.                     3
+Walthamstow, Essex      Shore., Station at      5¾, and Om.
+                        Lea Bridge
+Wandsworth, Surrey      Wat.                    5
+—                       Vic.                    2
+Wanstead, Essex         Shore. & Fen,
+                        Snaresbrook Station.
+Welling, Kent           L. B.                   9 Woolwich + 2½
+West Ham, Essex         Fen.                    4
+West Wickham, Surr.     L. B.                   10½ Croydon + 4
+Whetstone, Midd.        K. C.                   6 Colney Hatch + 2
+Willesden, Middlesex    Eust.                   6½
+Wimbledon, Surrey,      Wat.                    7
+Woodford, Essex         Shore. & Fen.           9
+Wood Green, Midd.       K. C.                   5
+Woolwich Dockyard,      L. B.                   8
+Kent
+— Arsenal               L. B.                   9
+——Dockyard and          St.
+Arsenal
+
+CHIEF OMNIBUS ROUTES.
+
+
+There are few better ways for a man to see London, on a fine day, than by
+riding through it on an omnibus.  These vehicles mostly begin to run
+about 8.30–9 a.m., and cease about 12 p.m.  To give more than a mere
+general notion as regards a few of the chief omnibus routes, is
+impossible in our limited space here.  The fares range, for the most
+part, from a minimum of 2d. to a maximum of 6d.  They are painted inside
+the omnibus: the main localities passed on the way, outside.  The groups
+of these conveyances known by distinctive _names_, (all the omnibuses of
+each group having one common name,) are chiefly the following:—
+
+_Atlas_—colour, green—running between St. John’s Wood and Camberwell
+Gate, and _vice versa_, _via_ Oxford Street, and over Westminster
+Bridge—every 5 minutes.
+
+_City Atlas_—green—between Swiss Cottage, St. John’s Wood, and London
+Bridge Station, and _vice versa_, _via_ Oxford St., Holborn, Bank—every 7
+minutes.
+
+_Bayswater_—light green—from Notting Hill and Bayswater to Mile-End Gate,
+_via_ Oxford Street, Holborn, Cornhill, Whitechapel—every 6 minutes.
+
+_Bayswater_ to _London Bridge Station_, _via_ Oxford Street, Holborn,
+Cheapside—every few minutes.
+
+_Bayswater_ to _Shoreditch Station_—Oxford Street, Holborn, Cheapside,
+Threadneedle Street, Bishopsgate Street—every hour.
+
+_Citizen_—_Paddington_ to _London Bridge Station_—Edgeware Road, (only,)
+Oxford Street, Holborn, Bank—every 8 minutes.
+
+Other omnibuses also run to and from Paddington, as follows:—
+
+_Paddington_ to _London Bridge Station_—green—Royal Oak, Edgeware Road,
+New Road, City Road, Bank—every 10 minutes.
+
+_Paddington_ to _Fenchurch Station_—Some of the above go to Fenchurch
+instead of London Bridge Station.
+
+_Paddington_ to _Whitechapel_—green—as above to Bank, then Cornhill and
+Aldgate—frequent.
+
+_Paddington_ to _Charing Cross_—red—Edgeware Road, Oxford and Regent
+Streets, Charing Cross—every 8 minutes.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+_Favorite_—green—Holloway to London Bridge, _via_ Highbury, Islington,
+City Road, Bank, King William Street—about every 8 minutes.
+
+_Favorite_—green—Holloway to Westminster, Islington, Exmouth Street,
+Chancery Lane, Westminster Abbey, Victoria Street.
+
+_Favorite_—blue—Holloway Road, Caledonian Road, King’s Cross, Euston
+Road, Portland Road, Regent Street, Piccadilly, Knightsbridge, South
+Kensington, Museum, “Queen’s Elm”—every 9 minutes.
+
+_Havelock_—Kingsland Gate to “Elephant and Castle,” _via_ Shoreditch,
+Bishopsgate Street, London Bridge, Borough—at frequent intervals.
+
+_Paragon_—green—Brixton to Gracechurch Street, Kensington, “Elephant and
+Castle,” London Bridge—every 10 minutes.
+
+_Buxton_ to _Oxford Street_—Kensington, Westminster Bridge, Charing
+Cross, Regent Street—every half hour.
+
+_Royal Blue_—blue—Pimlico, Piccadilly, Strand, Cheapside, Fenchurch
+Street Station—every 8 or 10 minutes.
+
+_Waterloo_—blue—from “York and Albany,” Regent’s Park, by Albany Street,
+Regent Street, Westminster Bridge, “Elephant and Castle” to Camberwell
+Gate—every 6 minutes.
+
+_Westminster_—brown—Pimlico to Bank, _via_ Lupus Street, Vauxhall Bridge
+Road, Westminster, Strand, &c.—every 6 minutes.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+Such are a few of the numerous omnibus routes of London.  From such
+places as Charing Cross and the London Bridge Stations, you can get an
+omnibus for almost any part of London, up till nearly midnight; while, by
+the aid of a map, no matter in what quarter you may be, you will speedily
+find out how best to consult your particular tastes in the way of
+locomotion and sight-seeing.  In the case of gross incivility or
+overcharge, you have a simple remedy by taking the conductor’s number and
+applying for a summons at the nearest police office.  If you are curious
+in the matter of social contrasts, say, you might do worse than by
+getting up outside a _Stratford and Bow_ (green) omnibus, at the Oxford
+Street Circus, and riding—for sixpence all the way—_via_ Regent Street,
+Pall Mall, Trafalgar Square, Strand, Fleet Street, St. Paul’s, past the
+Mansion House and the Bank, Royal Exchange, Cornhill, Leadenhall Street,
+Aldgate, Whitechapel Road, Mile End, to Stratford.  If your tastes should
+lead you westward, an enjoyable shilling’s worth may be obtained by
+riding on the _Richmond_ (white) omnibus, from St. Paul’s Churchyard to
+that prettily situated little town.
+
+
+
+LONDON TRAMWAYS.
+
+
+There are now _three_ Tramway Companies in London:—1.  _The Metropolitan
+Street Tramways Company_, (_Limited_.)  They run regularly from
+Westminster Bridge to Clapham and Brixton, at about every 5 minutes from
+each terminus, Fare 3d.  2.  _North Metropolitan Tramways Company_: (1)
+From Aldgate, along Whitechapel and Mile End Road (through Bow) to
+Stratford Church; (2) From Moorgate Street to the Angel, Islington,
+thence to Kingsland, Stoke Newington, &c.  Both running every 5 minutes,
+Fares 2d.; (3) another route is by Old Street to Stoke Newington and
+Clapton.  3.  _Southall_, _Ealing_, _and Shepherd’s Bush Tram Railway
+Company_, (_Limited_.)  This company is constructing lines in the western
+suburbs of London.  There are tramways in the north-west of town.
+
+
+
+CLUBS AND CLUB HOUSES.
+
+
+There are, in all, in London, about ninety.  The following is a list of
+the principal club-houses:—
+
+Alpine                                       8  St. Martin’s Place,
+                                                Trafalgar Square.
+Army and Navy                         36 to 39  Pall Mall, S. W.
+Arthur’s                             69 and 70  St. James’s Street.
+Arundel                                     12  Salisbury Street,
+                                                Strand.
+Athenæum                                   107  Pall Mall.
+Brooks’s                                    59  St. James’s Street.
+Carlton                                     94  Pall Mall.
+City Carlton                                83  King William Street,
+                                                E.C.
+Cavendish                                  307  Regent Street.
+City of London                              19  Old Broad Street,
+                                                City.
+Conservative                                74  St. James’s Street.
+East India United Service                   14  St. James’s Square.
+Garrick                                  13–15  Garrick Street,
+                                                Covent Garden.
+Gresham                                      1  Gresham Place, City.
+Guards’                                     70  Pall Mall.
+Junior Athenæum                             29  King Street, St.
+                                                James’s.
+Junior Carlton                        30 to 35  Pall Mall.
+Junior United Service                11 and 12  Charles Street, St.
+                                                James’s.
+Junior Army and Navy                        13  Grafton Street, Bond
+                                                Street.
+Naval and Military                          94  Piccadilly.
+New University                              57  St. James’s Street.
+Oriental                                    18  Hanover Square.
+Oxford and Cambridge                  71 to 76  Pall Mall.
+University
+Portland                                     1  Stratford Place,
+                                                Oxford Street.
+Pratt’s                                     14  Park Place, St.
+                                                James’s.
+Reform                                     104  Pall Mall.
+Smithfield                                  47  Halfmoon Street,
+                                                Piccadilly.
+St. James’s                                106  Piccadilly.
+Travellers’                                106  Pall Mall.
+Union                                           Trafalgar Square,
+                                                (S.W. Corner.)
+United Service                     116 and 117  Pall Mall.
+United University                            5  Pall Mall, East.
+Westminster                                 23  Albemarle Street.
+Whitehall                                       Parliament Street.
+White’s                              37 and 38  St. James’s Street.
+Windham                                     11  St. James’s Square.
+
+THE LONDON PARCELS DELIVERY COMPANY.
+
+
+This Company—whose chief office is in Roll’s Buildings, Fetter Lane,
+Fleet Street, and whose minor receiving houses, at shops, &c., are very
+numerous—delivers parcels at a tariff of 4d. if under 4 lbs. weight, and
+within three miles distance; under 14 lbs. within a like range, 6d.; and
+so on up to a cwt., which will be delivered for 1s. 2d., subject to the
+aforesaid condition.  Over three miles distance, the charge for
+delivering a parcel under 1 lb. to any part of London and its environs
+will be 4d., under 7 lbs., 6d., and so forth.  For a parcel under 112
+lbs., if carried beyond three miles, sender will be charged 1s. 6d.  To
+more distant places, minimum charge is 6d.  Light but bulky packages
+charged for by measurement.  The Company does not undertake to _collect_
+parcels from the houses of the senders.
+
+
+
+MONEY-ORDER OFFICES, AND POST-OFFICE SAVINGS-BANKS.
+
+
+The _London Postal District_, to which special rules relate, includes
+every town and village within twelve miles of the General Post-office.
+Reference has already been made to the number of post-offices,
+receiving-houses, and pillar-boxes, in this area.  There are 500
+_Money-order Offices_, the whole of which (with a very few exceptions)
+have within a recent period been made _Post-office Savings-banks_ also.
+The facilities thus afforded to strangers visiting London for a few days,
+for receiving or transmitting money, are very great.  A Post-office
+Money-order will convey sums of a few pounds without risk of loss, at a
+cost of a few pence, either from the visitor to his country friends, or
+from them to him.  The Post-office Savings-banks are even still more
+convenient; for a person residing in the country, and having money in the
+savings-banks, _can draw it out in London_ during his visit, or any part
+of it, with a delay of a day or two, free of expense.  In whatever part
+of London a visitor may be, he is within five or ten minutes’ walk of a
+Money-order Office; and at any such office he can, for six hours a day,
+(10 till 4,) obtain the requisite information concerning both of these
+kinds of economical monetary facilities.
+
+
+
+LONDON LETTERS, POSTAL AND TELEGRAPH SYSTEM.
+
+
+As just stated, the _London District Post_ operates within twelve miles
+of the General Post-office: that is, within a circle of twenty-four miles
+in diameter.  There are a few outlying patches beyond this circle, but
+they need not here be taken into account.  This large area is now divided
+into eight _Postal Districts_, each of which has a name, an initial
+abbreviation, and a chief office.  They are as follows:—
+
+E. C.       _Eastern Central_     St. Martin’s-le-Grand, (head
+                                  office.)
+W. C.       _Western Central_     126 High Holborn.
+N.          _Northern_            Packington Street, Islington.
+E.          _Eastern_             Nassau Place, Commercial Road,
+                                  East.
+S. E.       _South-Eastern_       9 Blackman Street, Borough.
+S. W.       _South-Western_       8 Buckingham Gate.
+W.          _Western_             3 Vere Street, Oxford Street.
+N. W.       _North-Western_       28 Eversholt Street, Oakley Square.
+
+The use of the district system is, that if a letter, arriving from the
+country, has on the outside the _district initials_ as well as the
+address, it has a fair chance of _earlier delivery_; and if sent from one
+part of London to another, such chance is the greater.  The reason for
+this is, that much of the sorting is effected at the eight chief district
+offices, if the initials are given, to the great saving of time.  An
+official list of a vast number of streets, &c., with their district
+initials, within the London District Post, is published at 1d., and is
+obtainable at most of the principal receiving-houses.
+
+The portion of each district within about three miles of the General
+Post-office is called the Town Delivery, and the remainder the Suburban
+Delivery.  Within the town limits there are twelve deliveries daily: the
+first, or General Post, commencing about 7.30, and mostly over in London
+about 9; the second commencing about 8.15, and the third at 10.30.  The
+next nine are made hourly.  The last delivery begins about 7.45.  There
+are seven despatches daily to the suburban districts.  The first, at 6.30
+a.m., to all places within the London District limits.  A second, at
+9.30, to suburbs within about four miles of the General Post-office.  The
+third, at 11.30, takes in almost all the London district.  The fourth
+despatch, at 2.30 p.m., goes to spots within about six miles of the
+General Post-office.  The fifth, at 4.30, comprises the whole of the
+suburban districts, and, except in the more outlying country spots,
+letters are delivered same evening.  The sixth, at 6 p.m., goes to places
+under four miles from the General Post-office.  The last despatch is at 7
+p.m.  Letters to go by it should be posted at the town post-offices or
+pillar-boxes by 6 p.m., or at the _chief_ office of the district to which
+they are addressed.  They will thus probably be delivered the same night,
+within about six miles of the General Office.  The suburban deliveries
+begin one to two hours after despatch, according to distance.
+
+It is always well to remember, that for any given delivery, a letter may
+be posted rather later at the chief office than at any of the minor
+offices of each district; that _letters_ only, not newspapers,
+book-parcels, manuscripts, &c., may be put in pillar-boxes; and that
+letters posted during the night, (from 9 p.m. to 5 a.m.,) have a chance
+of earlier delivery than otherwise, seeing that the pillar-boxes are
+cleared at 5 in the morning, and, as a rule, we believe, earlier than the
+receiving-houses.  Outgoing letters for the evening mails are received at
+most offices till 5.30, and at the chief office of each district till 6.
+By affixing an extra penny stamp, the letter is receivable till 6 at the
+minor, and till 7 at the chief offices.
+
+Telegraph Offices.—Telegrams may be sent from all Postal Offices within
+the London district.  The charge for 20 words, not including address, is
+1s.
+
+
+
+READING AND NEWS-ROOMS.
+
+
+Jerusalem Coffee-house, Cowper’s Court, Cornhill, (Indian, China, and
+Australian newspapers.)
+
+3 Wallbrook.
+
+154 Leadenhall Street, (Deacon’s.)
+
+13 Philpot Lane.
+
+Royal Exchange, Lloyds’, (Subscribers only.)
+
+King’s Head, Fenchurch Street.
+
+26 Fore Street, Cripplegate.
+
+88 Park Street, Camden Town.
+
+83 Lower Thames Street.
+
+177, 178 Fleet Street, (Peele’s—files of the _Times_ for many years.)
+
+24 King William Street, (Wild’s.)
+
+34 Mount Street, Grosvenor Square, (St. George’s.)
+
+22 Paddington Green, (Working Men’s.)
+
+Patent Museum Library, Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane, (free.)
+
+British Museum Library, (apply for ticket; enclosing letter of
+introduction from respectable householder.)
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+There are Reading and News Rooms belonging to a large number of learned
+societies and public institutions; but these are for the most part
+accessible only to members.
+
+
+
+CHESS ROOMS.
+
+
+A chess player may meet with competitors at any one of the several chess
+rooms.  The best are Simpson’s, (Limited Co.,) late Ries’s, _Divan_,
+opposite Exeter Hall, Strand; Kilpack’s, Covent Garden, (also an American
+Bowling Saloon;) and Pursell’s, Cornhill.  Many Coffee-shops are provided
+with chess-boards and men, and many dining and chop houses have
+chess-rooms up-stairs.
+
+
+
+THEATRES.
+
+
+There are at present about thirty-seven London Theatres, but those named
+below are all that need here be considered.
+
+Adelphi                             Strand.
+Alhambra                            Leicester Square.
+Astley’s Amphitheatre               6½ Bridge Road, Lambeth.
+Royal Amphitheatre                  Holborn.
+Britannia Theatre                   Hoxton Old Town.
+Charing Cross                       King William Street, Strand.
+City of London                      36 Norton Folgate.
+Covent Garden, (Opera House)        Bow Street.
+Court Theatre                       Sloane Square.
+Drury Lane                          Brydges Street.
+Gaiety                              Strand.
+Garrick                             Leman Street, Goodman’s Fields.
+Globe                               Strand.
+Grecian                             City Road.
+Great Eastern                       Whitechapel Road.
+Haymarket                           East side of Haymarket.
+Holborn                             Holborn.
+King’s Cross                        Liverpool Street, King’s Cross.
+Her Majesty’s, (Opera House)        West side of Haymarket.
+Lyceum                              Wellington Street, Strand.
+Marylebone                          New Church Street, Lisson Grove.
+Olympic                             Wych Street, Drury Lane.
+Opera Comique                       Strand.
+Pavilion                            85 Whitechapel Road.
+Philharmonic                        Islington.
+Princess’s                          73 Oxford Street.
+Prince of Wales’s                   4 and 5 Tottenham Street.
+Queen’s, (late St. Martin’s Hall)   Longacre.
+Royalty, or Soho                    73 Dean Street, Soho.
+Sadler’s Wells                      St. John’s Street Road.
+St. James’s                         23 King Street, St. James’s.
+Standard                            204 Shoreditch, High Street.
+Strand                              Between 168 and 169 Strand.
+Surrey                              124 Blackfriars Road.
+Vaudeville                          Strand.
+Victoria                            135 Waterloo Road.
+
+CONCERT ROOMS.
+
+
+Willis’s Rooms, King Street, St. James’s.
+
+Hanover Square Rooms.
+
+Exeter Hall, 372 Strand, Choral Societies, Sacred Harmonic, &c.
+
+St. James’s Hall, Quadrant and Piccadilly,—Concerts occasionally.
+
+16 Store Street, Bedford Square, „ „
+
+St. George’s Hall, Langham Place.
+
+Princess’s Concert Room, Princess’s Theatre,—Concerts occasionally.
+
+Queen’s Concert Room, (attached to Her Majesty’s Theatre,)—Concerts
+occasionally.
+
+Myddleton Hall, Upper Street, Islington.
+
+Agricultural Hall, Islington,—Concerts occasionally.
+
+
+
+MUSIC HALLS.
+
+Alhambra {178}                      Leicester Square, (east side.)
+Alhambra (Temperance) Music Hall    Shoreditch.
+Borough Music Hall                  170 Union Street.
+Cambridge Music Hall                Commercial Street.
+Canterbury Hall                     Lambeth Upper Marsh.
+Deacon’s                            Sadler’s Wells.
+Evans’                              Covent Garden.
+Islington Philharmonic Hall {179}   High Street, Islington.
+Marylebone                          High Street
+Metropolitan Music Hall             125 Edgeware Road.
+Middlesex                           Drury Lane.
+The Oxford                          6 Oxford Street, (east end.)
+Pavilion Music Hall                 Tichborne Street, Haymarket.
+Raglan Music Hall                   26 Theobald’s Road.
+Regent                              Vincent Square, Westminster.
+South London Music Hall             92 London Rd., St. George’s
+                                    Fields.
+Royal (late Weston’s) Music Hall    242 High Holborn.
+Wilton’s Music Hall                 Wellclose Square.
+Winchester Hall                     Southwark Bridge Road.
+
+MODES OF ADMISSION TO VARIOUS INTERESTING PLACES.
+
+
+Free.
+
+
+_British Museum_.—_Chelsea Hospital_.—_Courts of Law and Justice_ (at the
+Criminal Court and the Police Courts a fee is often needed.)—_Docks_,
+(but not the vaults and warehouses without an introduction.)—_Dulwich
+Gallery_.—_East India Museum_, Fife House, Whitehall.—_Greenwich
+Hospital_, (a small fee for some parts.)—_Hampton Court Palace_, (Sundays
+as well as week-days).—_Houses of Parliament_, (some portions every day;
+more on Saturdays.)—_Kew Botanic Garden and Pleasure Grounds_, (Sundays
+as well as week-days.)—_Museum of Economic Geology_, Jermyn
+Street.—_National Gallery_.—_National Portrait Gallery_.—_Patent Museum_,
+(adjoining the South Kensington Museum.)—_Soane’s Museum_, Lincoln’s Inn
+Fields.—_Society of Arts_ Exhibition of Inventions, (in the spring of
+each year.)—_St. Paul’s Cathedral_, (fees for Crypt and all above
+stairs.)—_Westminster Abbey_, (a fee for some of the
+Chapels.)—_Westminster Hall_.—_Windsor Castle_, (at periods notified from
+time to time.)—_Woolwich Repository_, (the Dockyard was closed in
+October, 1869, and a letter of introduction is needed for the Arsenal.)
+Private Picture Galleries are sometimes opened free; of which notice is
+given in the newspapers.
+
+
+Shilling Admissions.
+
+
+The number of Shilling Exhibitions open in London is at all times very
+large, but more especially in the summer months.  The first page of the
+_Times_ contains advertisements relating to the whole of them; while the
+penny papers contain a considerable number.  As the list varies from time
+to time, we cannot print it here; but the following are the chief places
+where the exhibitions or entertainments are held.  (Theatres and Music
+Halls are not included; because the terms of admission vary to different
+parts of those buildings.  We may here add that _Burford’s_ and the
+_Colosseum_ have long been closed.)—_Cremorne Gardens_, Chelsea.—_Crystal
+Palace_, Sydenham, (2s. 6d. on Saturday, 1s. on other days.)—_Egyptian
+Hall_, Piccadilly, (sometimes two or three exhibitions at once, in
+different parts of the building.)—_Gallery of Illustration_, Regent
+Street.—Various temporary exhibitions in large rooms situated in the
+Haymarket, Pall Mall, Regent Street, Piccadilly, and Bond
+Street.—_Picture Exhibitions_, (such as the _Royal Academy_, the _British
+Institution_, the _Society of British Artists_, two _Water Colour
+Societies_, &c.)—_Polytechnic Institution_, Regent Street.—_Polygraphic
+Hall_, Strand.—_Tussaud’s Waxwork_, Baker Street Bazaar.—_Zoological
+Gardens_, (sixpence on Mondays.)
+
+
+Admit by Introduction.
+
+
+Among the places to which admission may be obtained by personal
+introduction, or by letter, the following may be named:—_Antiquarian
+Society’s Museum_, Somerset House.—_Armourer’s Museum_, (ancient armour,)
+81 Coleman Street.—_Asiatic Society’s Museum_, 5 New Burlington
+Street.—_Bank of England Museum_, (collection of coins.)—_Botanical
+Society’s Gardens and Museum_, Regent’s Park.—_College of Surgeons’
+Museum_, Lincoln’s Inn Fields.—_Guildhall Museum_, (old London
+antiquities.)—_Linnæan Society’s Museum_, Burlington House.—_Mint_,
+(process of coining,) Tower Hill.—_Missionary Museum_, (idols, rude
+implements, &c.,) Bloomfield Street, Finsbury.—_Naval Museum_, (formerly,
+now at South Kensington.)—_Private Picture Galleries_, (several.)—_Royal
+Institution Museum_, Albemarle Street.—_Trinity House Museum_, (models of
+lighthouses, &c.,) Tower Hill.—_United Service Museum_, Scotland
+Yard.—_Woolwich Arsenal_.
+
+_N.B._—These lists are subject to constant change.
+
+
+
+PRINCIPAL PUBLIC AND TURKISH BATHS.
+
+
+(Those printed in _italics_ are public baths, established rather for the
+benefit of the working and middle classes, than for the sake of profit.
+At most of them a third-class cold bath can be obtained for 1d.; from
+which minimum the prices rise to about 6d. or 8d.  Many of the so-called
+_Turkish_ baths are ordinary baths in which the arrangements for the
+Turkish or Oriental system have recently been introduced.  There are also
+a few _Medicated Baths_, kept by medical practitioners for the use of
+invalids.)
+
+_Bermondsey Baths_      39 _Spa Road_, _Bermondsey_.
+_Bloomsbury_            _Endell Street_, _St. Giles’s_.
+Cadogan                 155 Sloane Street, Chelsea.
+Coldbath                25 Coldbath Square, Clerkenwell.
+Culverwell’s            10 Argyll Place and 5 New Broad Street.
+Islington               Cross Street.
+Lambeth                 8 Mount Street, Lambeth.
+Mahomed’s               42 Somerset Street, Portman Square.
+Metropolitan            23 Ashley Crescent, City Road.
+Old Roman               5 Strand Lane.
+Old Royal               10½ and 11 Bath Street, Newgate Street.
+Pentonville             Pentonville Road, (south side.)
+_Poplar_                _East India Road_.
+Portland                Great Portland Street, (east side.)
+Royal York              54 York Terrace, Regent’s Park.
+Russell                 56 Great Coram Street, Russell Square.
+Russian                 16a Old Cavendish Street.
+_St. George’s_          8 _Davis Street_, _Berkeley Square_, _and_ 88
+                        _Buckingham Palace Road_.
+—                       22 _Lower Belgrave Place_.
+_St. James’s_           16 _Marshall Street_, _Golden Square_.
+_St. Martin’s_          _Orange Street_, _Leicester Square_.
+_St. Marylebone_        181 _Marylebone Road_.
+Wenlock                 Wenlock Road, City Road.
+_Westminster_           21 _Great Smith Street_, _Westminster_.
+_Whitechapel_           _Goulston Square_, _Whitechapel_.
+
+Turkish.
+
+     191  Blackfriars Road, S.E.
+     184  Euston Road, N.W.
+     155  Sloane Street, S.W.
+     282  Goswell Road, E.C.
+       7  Kennington Park Road, S.E.
+       1  Upper John Street, Golden Square, W.
+      55  Marylebone Road, N.W.
+      42  Somerset Street, Portman Square, N.W.
+
+Medicated Baths.
+
+Ballard’s       Chapel Place, Cavendish Square.
+Campion’s       155 Sloane Street, Chelsea.
+Mahomed’s       42 Somerset Street, Portman Square.
+
+CABS.
+
+
+Practically speaking, the new law ordering cabmen to display a flag, on
+which is painted their tariff per mile and per hour, is a dead letter.
+Few or none shew flags, and many have none to shew.  Cab proprietors can
+now charge what they please, provided they take out a license from the
+Commissioners of Metropolitan Police, on which is endorsed the rate by
+distance or by time intended to be charged, and the number of persons to
+be carried.  No fare less than one shilling is to be offered.  The driver
+is to give passenger a card which specifies the licensed price per hour
+or per mile.  As regards luggage, for each package carried outside 2d.
+extra is charged.  For each person _above two_ 6d. extra on the entire
+journey.  If such extra person be a child under 10 years of age, 3d.  Two
+children of such age to be reckoned as one person.  If cab be discharged
+more than four miles from Charing Cross by radius, an extra charge will
+be made for such excess of distance, as per sum stated on cabman’s card.
+Every full mile of such excess will be charged for at per tariff per mile
+stated on such card.  Driver is not compelled to drive more than 6 miles.
+For every quarter of an hour he is kept waiting, if the cab be hired by
+time, one-fourth of his tariff per hour.  If hired by distance, for every
+quarter of an hour of waiting, the rate charged per mile.  By time, for
+any period under one hour, the sum stated on driver’s card as charged per
+hour.  As a general rule, cabmen charge 2s. per hour for four-wheeled
+cabs, and 2s. 6d. for “Hansom;” and by distance, 1s. for the first mile,
+and 6d. for the second, and so on.  Property left in hackney carriages
+should be asked for at the office for property left in such carriages, at
+the office of the Commissioners of Police, Great Scotland Yard, Charing
+Cross.  Cabmen are bound, under a penalty, to take such lost property to
+the nearest police station within 24 hours.  In case of disagreement
+between a cabman and his passenger, the latter can compel the cabman to
+drive to the nearest police office; and if a Magistrate be then sitting,
+he will at once settle the dispute.  If such office is closed, the cabman
+may be required to drive to the nearest police station, where the
+complaint will be entered, and adjudicated at the magistrate’s next
+sitting.  Our readers cannot do better than purchase (price 1s.) a little
+book on the subject of Cab Fares and Regulations, published under the
+auspices of the Commissioners of the Metropolitan Police.  It can be
+ordered through any bookseller, or may be purchased direct, at the office
+for its sale, a few doors north of the entrance to Great Scotland Yard.
+In it will be found a list of fares, and the distances in yards, from
+many parts in London to others.  Its usefulness will amply repay our
+readers for their small outlay in its purchase.
+
+
+
+HINTS TO STRANGERS.
+
+
+Whether you know the proper cab-fare or not, always make a bargain with
+the cabman when hiring his vehicle; and take a note of his number.
+
+Keep the right hand side of the pavement when walking.
+
+If out with other country friends, keep well together.
+
+Observe caution while crossing crowded thoroughfares.
+
+In asking for information, apply to shopkeepers, or to policemen, rather
+than to passers-by.
+
+The London police are, for the most part, reliable men; and strangers in
+any doubt or difficulty can generally obtain useful aid from them.
+
+Be on your guard against pickpockets in crowds, street exhibitions, and
+omnibuses.
+
+Beware of strangers who endeavour to force their acquaintance on you, and
+affect to be unacquainted with London; they are often low sharpers.
+
+Keep no more cash about you than is needed for the day’s supply.
+
+Be cautious in opening your purse or looking at your watch in the
+streets.
+
+Avoid low neighbourhoods after dark; if there is anything worth seeing
+there, see it in the daytime.
+
+Disregard street-beggars; residents only (and not always even they) can
+tell the deserving from the undeserving.
+
+
+
+COMMISSIONAIRES OR MESSENGERS.
+
+
+These are a body of retired soldiers of good character, who were
+originally organized in 1859, by Captain Walter.  Their central office,
+open day and night, is at Exchange Court, 419_a_ Strand, where men can
+always be hired.  But they are also to be seen, and are easily
+recognisable by their neat dark green uniform and badge, in most large
+thoroughfares.  Their tariff is,—twopence for half-a-mile or under; and
+threepence for any distance over half-a-mile to a mile.  Back fare, or
+charge for return, (unless bearing a return message,) is not allowed.  A
+charge of one penny per mile extra, if the parcel carried weighs more
+than 14 lbs.  If engaged by time, sixpence per hour, twopence a quarter
+of an hour, half-a-crown for a day of eight hours.  By special
+arrangement, they may be hired at from 15s. to 20s. per week.
+
+
+
+THE GREAT INTERCEPTS MAIN DRAINAGE SYSTEM OF LONDON.
+
+
+North of the Thames are the _High Level_, the _Middle Level_, the _Low
+Level_, and the _Western District Sewers_, together with an _Outfall_ at
+Barking Creek.  The High Level drains Hampstead, Highgate, Kentish Town,
+Highbury, Stoke Newington, Hackney, and passes under Victoria Park to Old
+Ford; its length is about 9 miles.  The Middle Level runs by way of
+Kensal Green, Kensington Park, Notting Hill, Bayswater, Oxford Street,
+and so under a number of minor streets, to Old Ford, being about 12 miles
+long.  The Low Level commences near Pimlico, and passes along under the
+Thames embankment to Blackfriars, whence it is to go through the City and
+Whitechapel to West Ham.  The Western District Sewers drain Acton,
+Hammersmith, Fulham, Chelsea, &c., on a plan different from that of the
+main drainage in other localities.  The Outfall, an immense work 6 miles
+long, continues the Upper and Middle Level Sewers from Old Ford to West
+Ham, and all the three sewers thence to Barking Creek, where stupendous
+arrangements are made for conducting the flow of the sewage into the
+Thames.  The drainage south of the Thames comprises a _High Level Sewer_,
+a _Low Level Sewer_, and an _Outflow_.  The High Level drains Clapham,
+Brixton, Streatham, Dulwich, Camberwell, &c.; the Low Level keeps nearer
+the Thames, by Wandsworth, Battersea, Vauxhall, Lambeth, Southwark,
+Bermondsey, and Rotherhithe, to Deptford; while the Outfall continues
+both these lines of sewers through Deptford, Greenwich, Woolwich, and
+across Plumstead Marshes to Crossness Point, where the works are situated
+for conveying the sewage into the river.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+Abney Park Cemetery, 61
+
+Achilles’s Statue, 127
+
+Adelphi Theatre, 28, 121
+
+Admiralty, 30, 46
+
+Admission to Places of Interest, 178
+
+Albert Suspension Bridge, 102
+
+Aldermen, 85
+
+Aldgate, 18
+
+Aldgate High Street, 18
+
+Alexandra Park, 167
+
+Alhambra, 124
+
+Amusements, 125
+
+Apothecaries’ Hall, 97
+
+Apsley House, 38, 39
+
+Armouries, Tower, 78
+
+Arsenal, Woolwich, 160
+
+Art Exhibitions, 70
+
+Artillery Ground, 32
+
+Arundel Street, 27
+
+Astley’s Amphith., 123
+
+Austin Friars, 17
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+Bank of England, 15, 93
+
+Bank of London, 17
+
+Banks, 94
+
+Baptist College, 72
+
+Barclay & Perkins’s, 113
+
+Barnes, 145
+
+Barnet, 162
+
+Baths, 180
+
+Battersea, 104, 144
+
+— Bridge, 104
+
+— Park, 133
+
+Bazaars, 31, 113
+
+Belgrave Square, 31
+
+Berkeley Square, 31
+
+Bethnal Green, 19
+
+Bethnal Green Cemetery, 61
+
+Bethnal G. Museum, 66
+
+Billingsgate, 18, 111
+
+Birdcage Walk, 126
+
+Bishopsgate Street, 18
+
+Blackfriars’ Bridge, 22, 103
+
+Blackheath, 163
+
+Blackwall, 159
+
+— Railway, 141
+
+Blue Coat School, 73
+
+Board of Trade Office, 47
+
+Boat-races, 145
+
+Bolt Court, 25
+
+Bond Street, 31
+
+Book-trade, 115
+
+Botanical Gardens, 134
+
+Bow Church, 56
+
+Bow Lane, 19
+
+Bread Street, 19
+
+Breweries, 113
+
+Bridges, 102
+
+Bridgewater Gallery, 40
+
+— House, 40
+
+Brighton Railway, 140
+
+Britannia Theatre, 122
+
+British Institution, 70
+
+— Museum, 62
+
+Broad Street, 17
+
+Bromley, 163
+
+Brooke Street, 24
+
+Bryanstone Square, 31
+
+Buccleuch House, 40
+
+Buckingham Palace, 34
+
+Bunhill Fields, 32
+
+Burlington House, 69
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+Cabs and Cab Fares, 137, 182
+
+Cannon Street, 14, 33
+
+Canterbury Hall, 124
+
+Cattle Market, 110
+
+Cavendish Square, 31
+
+Cecil Street, 27
+
+Cemeteries, 57, 61
+
+Central Criminal Court, 21
+
+Chancery Lane, 25
+
+Chapels, 55
+
+Charing Cross, 28, 30
+
+— Railway Station and Hotel, 27
+
+— Theatre, 28, 122
+
+Charitable Institutions, 76
+
+Charles I.’s Statue, 28
+
+Charter House, 20
+
+Charter House School, 73
+
+Chatham and Dover Railway, 141
+
+Cheapside, 15, 19
+
+Chelsea, 144
+
+— Bridge, 104
+
+— Hospital, 143
+
+Chess Rooms, 176
+
+Chesterfield House, 40
+
+Child’s Banking Ho., 26
+
+Chiswick, 145
+
+Chop-houses, 120
+
+Christ’s Hospital, 73
+
+Churches, 55
+
+City Bank, 17
+
+—Companies, 97
+
+—of Lond. School, 20, 75
+
+—Prison, 93
+
+— Road, 32
+
+—, the, 12, 15
+
+Clapham, 144
+
+Clement’s Inn, 27
+
+Clock, Westminster, 43
+
+Clothworkers’ Hall, 97
+
+Clubs and Club Houses, 116, 173
+
+Coal Exchange, 110
+
+Cockspur Street, 30
+
+Coffee-houses, 120
+
+— shops, 120
+
+Colleges, 70
+
+Colonial Office, 47
+
+Colosseum, 132
+
+Commercial Docks, 100
+
+Commissionaires, 183
+
+Common Council, 85
+
+Companies’ Halls, 96
+
+Concert Rooms, 123, 178
+
+Constitution Hill, 127
+
+Corn Exchange, 18, 113
+
+Cornhill, 15, 18
+
+Corporation, 84
+
+Cotton’s Wharf, 18
+
+Courts of Law, 44, 92
+
+Court Theatre, 122
+
+Covent G. Market, 111
+
+— Theatre, 28
+
+Crane Court, 25
+
+Craven Street, 27
+
+Crays, 163
+
+Cremorne Gardens, 125
+
+Crossness Point, 161
+
+Crystal Palace, 163
+
+— Railway, 139
+
+Custom House, 18, 81
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+Deptford, 154
+
+Devonshire House, 39
+
+Dining-rooms, 120
+
+Dissenting Chapels, 59
+
+Docks, 18, 99
+
+Doctors’ Commons, 20
+
+Doomsday Book, 92
+
+Downing Street, 47
+
+Down River Excur., 154
+
+Drainage System, 86, 184
+
+Drapers’ Hall, 96
+
+Drury Lane Theatre, 28, 121
+
+Duke of York’s Column, 30
+
+Duke of York’s School, 144
+
+Dulwich College, 163
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+East India Docks, 99
+
+— Museum, 67
+
+Edmonton, 163
+
+Egyptian Hall, 124
+
+Electric Time-ball, 158
+
+Eltham, 163
+
+Enfield, 163
+
+English Presbyterian Theological Coll., 72
+
+Entertainments, 124
+
+Environs of London, 169
+
+Epping Forest, 163
+
+Erith, 161
+
+Essex Street, 27
+
+Eton College, 154
+
+Euston Road, 32
+
+— Station, 32
+
+Evans’s Hotel and Supper Rooms, 28, 124
+
+Exchequer Office, 47
+
+Excursions, 143
+
+Exeter Hall, 28
+
+Exhibition, International, 129
+
+Exhibitions, &c., 179
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+Farringdon St., 22
+
+Fenchurch Station, 141
+
+— Street, 18
+
+Finchley, 162
+
+— Cemetery, 61
+
+Finsbury Park, 133
+
+— Square, 32
+
+Fire Brigade, 88
+
+Fires, Great, 10, 18, 80
+
+Fishmongers’ Hall, 96
+
+Fish Street, 18
+
+Fish-supply, 111
+
+Fleet Street, 22, 24
+
+— Valley, 21
+
+Floral Hall, 112
+
+Food-supply, 109
+
+Foreign Office, 47
+
+Fountains, 88, 133, 166
+
+Free Exhibitions, 179
+
+Fulham, 145
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+Gaiety Theatre, 28, 122
+
+Gall. of Illustration, 12
+
+George III.’s Statue, 30
+
+George IV.’s Statue, 29
+
+Globe Theatre, 28, 122
+
+Gog and Magog, 89
+
+Goldsmiths’ Hall, 20, 96
+
+Gough Square, 25
+
+Government Offices, 45
+
+Gracechurch Street, 18
+
+Grand Surrey Docks, 100
+
+Gravesend, 161
+
+Grays, 161
+
+Gray’s Inn, 91
+
+Great E. Railway, 141
+
+— Nor. Railway, 138
+
+— W. Railway, 138
+
+Grecian Theatre, 122
+
+Greenhithe, 161
+
+Green Park, 38, 127
+
+Greenwich, 155
+
+— Hospital, 155
+
+— Park, 158
+
+Gresham House, 95
+
+— Lectures, 72
+
+— Street, 17
+
+Grocers’ Hall, 96
+
+Grosvenor Gallery, 39
+
+— Hotel, 118
+
+— House, 39
+
+— Square, 31
+
+Guards’ Memorial, 30
+
+Guildhall, 20, 88
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+Haberdashers’ Hall, 96
+
+Hackney College, 72
+
+Hammersmith, 145
+
+Hampstead, 162
+
+Hampton Court Palace, 149
+
+Hanover Square, 31
+
+— Rooms, 123
+
+Harrow, 162
+
+Havelock’s Statue, 30
+
+Haymarket Theatre, 30, 121
+
+Henry VII.’s Chapel, 51
+
+H. M. Theatre, 30, 121
+
+Highest Ground in London, 20
+
+Highgate, 162
+
+— Cemetery, 61
+
+Hints to Strangers, 183
+
+Holborn, 22
+
+— Hill, 23
+
+— Theatre, 122
+
+— Valley Viaduct, 22
+
+Holford House, 40
+
+Holland House, 40
+
+Home Office, 30, 47
+
+Hornsey, 162
+
+Horse Guards, 30, 46
+
+Horticultural Gardens, 135
+
+Hospitals, 76
+
+Hotel Charges, viii
+
+Hotels, 117
+
+Houndsditch, 18
+
+House of Correction, 93
+
+Houses and Streets, 11
+
+— of Parlt., 30, 49
+
+Howard Street, 27
+
+Hudson’s Bay House, 18
+
+Hungerford Bridge, 104
+
+Hyde Park, 31, 127
+
+— Square, 31
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+India House, 95
+
+— Office, 47
+
+Inns, 117
+
+— of Court, 26, 91
+
+Insurance Offices, 94
+
+International Exhibition, 129
+
+Ironmonger Lane, 19
+
+Ironmongers’ Hall, 96
+
+Isle of Dogs, 159
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+Jewel House, Tower, 80
+
+Jewish Synagogues, 59
+
+Jews’ Quarter, 18
+
+Johnson’s Court, 25
+
+Junior Athenæum Club, 40
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+Kennington Park, 133
+
+Kensal Green, 61
+
+Kensington Garden, 131
+
+— Palace, 36
+
+Kew Gardens, 146
+
+King’s College, 27, 45, 72
+
+— Cross Station, 138
+
+King Street, 19
+
+King William St., 13, 18
+
+Koh-i-noor, 80
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+Lady’s Mile, 129
+
+Lambeth Bridge, 104
+
+— Palace, 36
+
+Landseer’s four Lions, 29
+
+Lansdowne House, 40
+
+Leadenhall Market, 111
+
+— Street, 18
+
+Letter Deliveries, 175
+
+Lewisham, 163
+
+Lighting, 87
+
+Limehouse, 159
+
+Lincoln’s Inn, 91
+
+Lloyd’s, 90
+
+Lombard Street, 15, 18
+
+London and N.-W. Railway, 138
+
+London Bridge, 15, 18, 102
+
+— Hotel, 119
+
+— Station, 140
+
+London, Chatham, and Dover Bridge, 23
+
+London Docks, 100
+
+— in Roman times, 9
+
+— Stone, 168
+
+— University, 70
+
+Long Walk, Windsor, 154
+
+Lord Mayor’s Show, 85
+
+Lothbury Street, 17
+
+Lower Serle’s Place, 25
+
+Ludgate Hill, 21
+
+— Railway Station, 21
+
+Ludgate Street, 21
+
+Lyceum Theatre, 28, 122
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+Maclise’s Great Picture, 44
+
+Mall, 126
+
+Malt Liquors, 113
+
+Manchester Square, 31
+
+Mansion House, 15, 19, 88
+
+Markets, 110
+
+Mark Lane, 18
+
+Marlborough House, 35
+
+Marylebone Road, 32
+
+— Church, 33
+
+— Theatre, 122
+
+May Fair, 31
+
+Medicated Baths, 181
+
+Mercers’ Grammar School, 75
+
+Mercers’ Hall, 96
+
+Merchant Taylors’ Hall, 96
+
+Merchant Taylors’ School, 75
+
+Metropolitan Railway, 33
+
+Mile-End Cemetery, 61
+
+Military Prison, 93
+
+Milk Street, 19
+
+Millbank Prison, 93
+
+Mincing Lane, 18
+
+Mint, 81
+
+Mitcham, 163
+
+Mitre Court, 24
+
+Model Prison, 93
+
+Money-Order Office, 175
+
+Monument, 18, 89
+
+Moorgate Street, 16
+
+Mortlake, 145
+
+Mudie’s Library, 115
+
+Museum, British, 62
+
+Museum of College of Surgeons, 67
+
+Museum, Geological, 66
+
+Music Halls, 123, 178
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+Napier’s Statue, 29
+
+National Gallery, 30, 68
+
+— Portrait Gallery, 69
+
+Nelson’s Column, 29
+
+— Tomb, 49
+
+New College, 72
+
+Newgate, 92
+
+— Market, 111
+
+— Prison, 21
+
+— Street, 20, 22
+
+News Rooms, 176
+
+Norfolk Street, 27
+
+Northfleet, 161
+
+N. and S.W. Junction, 139
+
+North London Railway, 141
+
+Northumberland House, 28, 38
+
+Northumberland Street, 27
+
+North Woolwich, 159
+
+Norwood, 163
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+Observatory, Greenwich, 158
+
+Old Bailey, 21, 92
+
+Old ’Change, 19
+
+Old Roman Wall, 9
+
+Omnibus Routes, 136, 171
+
+Open House, 121
+
+Oratorios, 123
+
+Oxford Music Hall, 124
+
+— Street, 31
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+Paddington, 32
+
+— Station, 138
+
+Palace of Justice, 27
+
+Pall Mall, 29
+
+Pantheon, 114
+
+Panyer Alley, 20
+
+Parcels’ Delivery Co., 174
+
+Park Lane, 31
+
+Parks, 125
+
+Parson’s Green, 145
+
+Paternoster Row, 20
+
+Pavilion Gardens, 125
+
+Peel’s Statue, 20
+
+Penitentiary, Millbank, 93
+
+Pentonville Road, 32
+
+Petticoat Lane, 18
+
+Philharmonic Music Hall and Theatre, 124
+
+Piccadilly, 30
+
+Pimlico, 33
+
+— Station, 140
+
+Plague, Great, 10
+
+Plumstead Marshes, 161
+
+Pneumatic Despatch, 101
+
+Police, 85
+
+Polytechnic Inst., 125
+
+Pool, the, 98
+
+Pope’s Villa, 148
+
+Poplar, 159
+
+Population, 11
+
+Portland Place, 30
+
+Portman Square, 31
+
+Port of London, 98
+
+Postal System, 175
+
+Post-office, General, 83, 175
+
+P.O. Savings Banks, 175
+
+Poultry, 16
+
+Primrose Hill, 132
+
+Prince of Wales’ Theatre, 122
+
+Prince’s Street, 15
+
+Princess’s Theatre, 122
+
+Printing House Sq., 21
+
+Prisons, 92
+
+Privy Council Office, 47
+
+Purfleet, 161
+
+Putney, 145
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+Quadrant, 30
+
+Queen’s Bench Prison, 93
+
+Queen’s Theatre, 28, 122
+
+Queen Street, 19
+
+Queen Victoria Street, 14, 19, 107
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+Railway Bridges, 104
+
+— Distances, 169
+
+— Hotels, 118
+
+Railways, 138
+
+Rainham, 161
+
+Reading Rooms, 63, 176
+
+Record Office, 92
+
+Regent’s Park, 132
+
+Regent Street, 29, 30
+
+Registrar-General’s Office, 45
+
+Richard Cœur de Lion’s Statue, 30
+
+Richmond, 147
+
+— Bridge, 147
+
+— Hill, 148
+
+— Park, 149
+
+Roman Catholic Chapels, 59
+
+Rotherhithe, 101
+
+Rothschild’s House, 40
+
+Rotten Row, 129
+
+Routes through London, 13
+
+Royal Academy, 69
+
+— Albert Hall, 131
+
+— Exchange, 15, 19, 90
+
+— Humane Society, 129
+
+Royal Institution, 67
+
+— Military Asylum, 144
+
+Royal Music Hall, 124
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+Sacred Harmonic Concerts, 123
+
+Sadler’s Wells, 122
+
+— Court, 25
+
+Salisbury Street, 27
+
+Savoy Chapel, 57
+
+Schools, Public, 73
+
+—, Various, 75
+
+Scientific Societies, 68
+
+Sergeant’s Inn, 92
+
+Serpentine, 129
+
+Sheepshanks’ Pictures, 65
+
+Shilling Exhibitions, 179
+
+Shoe Lane, 23
+
+Shops, 113
+
+Skinners’ Hall, 96
+
+Shoreditch Station, 141
+
+Smithfield, 20, 110
+
+Snow Hill, 33
+
+Soane Museum, 70
+
+Society of Arts, 67
+
+— of British Artists, 70
+
+Soho Bazaar, 114
+
+— Theatre, 122
+
+Somerset House, 27, 44
+
+South-Eastern Railway, 140
+
+South-Eastern Railway Bridge, 103
+
+South Kensington Museum, 64
+
+South Sea House, 17, 95
+
+Southwark Bridge, 103
+
+— Park, 133
+
+South-Western Railway, 139
+
+Spitalfields, 18
+
+Spring Gardens, 29
+
+Spurgeon’s Tabernacle, 60
+
+St. Bride’s Church, 26
+
+St. Clement Dane’s Church, 27
+
+St. Dunstan’s Church, 26
+
+St. George’s Cathedral, 60
+
+St. Helena Gardens, 125
+
+St. James’s Church, 58
+
+— Hall, 124
+
+—Palace, 33
+
+St. James’s Park, 29, 33, 38, 125
+
+— Square, 31
+
+— Theatre, 122
+
+St. John’s Gate, 20
+
+— Wood, 31
+
+St. Katherine’s Docks, 100
+
+— Hos., 132
+
+St. Martin’s Church, 28
+
+St. Martin’s-le-Grand, 20
+
+St. Mary’s Church, 27
+
+St. Pancras’ Church, 33
+
+— Station, 32
+
+St. Paul’s Cathedral, 20, 47
+
+— Churchyard, 20, 112
+
+— School, 73
+
+Stafford House, 38
+
+Star and Garter, Putney, 145, 149
+
+State Paper Office, 92
+
+Stationers’ Hall, 97
+
+Steam-boat Piers, 105
+
+Steamers, 142
+
+Stepney, 19
+
+Stock Exchange, 17
+
+Strand, 27, 29
+
+— Theatre, 28, 122
+
+Strawberry Hill, 148
+
+Streets, 113
+
+Suburban Villages, 169
+
+Sun Fire Office, 17
+
+Surrey Gardens, 125
+
+— Street, 27
+
+— Theatre, 123
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+Taverns, 119
+
+Tea Gardens, 125
+
+Telegraphs, 175, 176
+
+Temperance Hotels, 121
+
+Temple, 26, 90
+
+— Bar, 26, 27
+
+— Church, 91
+
+— Gardens, 91
+
+Thames, and Shipping, 97
+
+Thames Embankment, 14, 106
+
+Thames Subway, 18
+
+— Tunnel, 18, 101
+
+Theatres, 121, 176
+
+Threadneedle St., 17, 93
+
+Tilbury, 161
+
+— and Southend Railway, 141
+
+_Times’_ Office, 21
+
+Tobacco Dock, 100
+
+Tooley Street, 18
+
+Tower of London, 18, 77
+
+Tower Subway, 101
+
+Trades, Number of, 114
+
+Trafalgar Square, 29
+
+Training Colleges, 73
+
+Tramways, 173
+
+Treasury, 30, 46
+
+Trinity House, 95
+
+Turkish Baths, 180
+
+Turner’s Pictures, 68
+
+Tussaud’s Exhibition, 125
+
+Twickenham, 148
+
+Tyburnia, 31
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+United Service Museum, 67
+
+University College, 71
+
+— Hall, 72
+
+Upper Regent Street, 30
+
+Up River Excursions, 143
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+Vaudeville Theatre, 28, 122
+
+Vauxhall Bridge, 104
+
+— Gardens, 125
+
+Vegetable Markets, 111
+
+Vernon Pictures, 68
+
+Victoria Docks, 99
+
+— Park, 132
+
+— Station, 140
+
+— Street, 22
+
+— Theatre, 123
+
+— Tower, 43
+
+Villiers’ Street, 27
+
+Vintners’ Hall, 97
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+Walbrook, 15
+
+Walham Green, 145
+
+Waltham, 163
+
+— Abbey, 163
+
+Wandsworth, 144
+
+War Office, 47
+
+Water-colour Exhib., 70
+
+— Supply, 109
+
+Waterloo Bridge, 27, 45, 104
+
+— Place, 30
+
+— Station, 139
+
+Wellington’s Statue, 39
+
+Wesleyan College, 72
+
+Westbourne Terrace, 31
+
+West-End, 19, 27
+
+— India Docks, 99
+
+— London Rail, 139
+
+Westminster Abbey, 30, 51
+
+— Bridge, 30, 41, 104
+
+— Hall, 30, 41, 44
+
+— Palace, 29
+
+— Palace Hotel, 119
+
+— School, 73
+
+Weston’s Music Hall, 124
+
+Wharfs, 98
+
+Whitebait Taverns, 155, 159
+
+Whitechapel, 19
+
+— Market, 111
+
+Whitecross Street Prison, 92
+
+Whitehall, 29
+
+— Banqueting House, 30
+
+— Chapel, 57
+
+— Gardens, 30
+
+Wimbledon, 144, 163
+
+Winchester Street, 17
+
+Windsor, 151
+
+— Castle, 153
+
+Wine Vaults, Docks, 100
+
+Woking Necropolis, 61
+
+Wood Street, 19
+
+Woolwich, 159
+
+Wren’s Churches, 58
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+Zoological Gardens, 133
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+                     WILLIAM COLLINS & CO., PRINTERS,
+                       HERRIOT HILL WORKS, GLASGOW.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+
+
+
+FOOTNOTES
+
+
+{16}  Most of the illustrations are _bird’s-eye views_, taken from
+house-tops and church-towers, in order to shew as many public buildings
+as possible.  The reader will attribute to this cause any apparent
+distortion of perspective, as compared with views taken from level
+ground.
+
+{18}  This tremendous conflagration was one of the largest ever known in
+London since 1666, involving the loss of property valued at two millions
+sterling.  The ruins were still hot, steaming and smoking, seven weeks
+after the fire commenced.  Mr. Braidwood, chief of the London Fire
+Brigade, perished in the ruins; a public funeral testified to the esteem
+in which he was held.
+
+{20}  This is not what is called LONDON STONE.  That famous stone will be
+found on the side of St. Swithin’s Church, New Cannon Street.  (See p.
+168.)
+
+{40}  Tickets of admission can generally be obtained, during the season,
+of Messrs Smith, 137 New Bond Street.  Days of admission, from 10 till 5,
+Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays.
+
+{47a}  The total cost, including 200 tons of iron-railing, was
+£1,511,202.
+
+{47b}  It is strange that, in relation to the best known building in
+London, great discordance reigns concerning the total _height_.  Wren’s
+son, in the _Parentalia_, simply states that the lantern is 330 feet from
+the ground; Maitland gives the total height at 340 feet; many authorities
+name 360 feet; while several Hand-books and Guides, following the
+pamphlet sold in the cathedral, raise it to 404 feet.  This last
+statement agrees with the Cockney tradition, that St. Paul’s is twice as
+high as the Monument.  A careful examination of the vertical section,
+however, shews that the height is about 356 feet above the marble
+pavement of the cathedral, 375 above the level of the crypt, and 370
+above the pavement of the churchyard.  It will thus be sufficiently near
+the truth to say that St. Paul’s is 365 feet high—a familiar number, easy
+to remember.
+
+{178}  Is also a theatre.
+
+{179}  Is also a theatre.
+
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COLLINS' ILLUSTRATED GUIDE TO LONDON
+AND NEIGHBOURHOOD***
+
+
+******* This file should be named 39379-0.txt or 39379-0.zip *******
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+
+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Collins' Illustrated Guide to London and
+Neighbourhood, by Anonymous
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Collins' Illustrated Guide to London and Neighbourhood
+
+
+Author: Anonymous
+
+
+
+Release Date: April 5, 2012  [eBook #39379]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COLLINS' ILLUSTRATED GUIDE TO
+LONDON AND NEIGHBOURHOOD***
+</pre>
+<p>Transcribed from the 1873 William Collins, Sons and Company
+edition by David Price, email ccx074@pglaf.org</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/coverb.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Cover of book"
+title=
+"Cover of book"
+src="images/covers.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p0b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey, Westminster Hall,
+Crimean and Canning Monuments.  Penitentiary, Vauxhall Bridge,
+Lambeth Suspension Bridge, Lambeth Place, and Bethlehem Hospital
+in the distance"
+title=
+"Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey, Westminster Hall,
+Crimean and Canning Monuments.  Penitentiary, Vauxhall Bridge,
+Lambeth Suspension Bridge, Lambeth Place, and Bethlehem Hospital
+in the distance"
+src="images/p0s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h1>COLLINS&rsquo;<br />
+ILLUSTRATED<br />
+GUIDE TO LONDON<br />
+<span class="GutSmall">AND</span><br />
+NEIGHBOURHOOD:</h1>
+<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">BEING
+A</span></p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">CONCISE
+DESCRIPTION OF THE CHIEF PLACES OF INTEREST IN THE</span><br />
+<span class="GutSmall">METROPOLIS, AND THE BEST MODES OF
+OBTAINING ACCESS</span><br />
+<span class="GutSmall">TO THEM: WITH INFORMATION RELATING
+TO</span></p>
+<p style="text-align: center">RAILWAYS, OMNIBUSES, STEAMERS,
+&amp;c.</p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p style="text-align: center">With fifty-eight Illustrations by
+Sargent and others,<br />
+<span class="GutSmall">AND</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">A CLUE-MAP BY BARTHOLOMEW</span>.</p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p style="text-align: center">LONDON:<br />
+WILLIAM COLLINS, SONS, AND COMPANY,<br />
+<span class="GutSmall">17 WARWICK SQUARE, PATERNOSTER
+ROW.</span><br />
+1873.</p>
+<h2><a name="pagev"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+v</span>PREFACE.</h2>
+<p><span class="smcap">In</span> this work an attempt is made to
+furnish Strangers with a handy and useful Guide to the chief
+objects of interest in the Metropolis and its Environs:
+comprising also much that will be interesting to permanent
+Residents.&nbsp; After a few pages of General Description, the
+various Buildings and other places of attraction are treated in
+convenient groups or sections, according to their nature.&nbsp;
+Short Excursions from the Metropolis are then noticed.&nbsp;
+Tables, lists, and serviceable information concerning railways,
+tramways, omnibuses, cabs, telegraphs, postal rules, and other
+special matters, follow these sections.&nbsp; An <span
+class="smcap">Alphabetical Index</span> at the end furnishes the
+means of easy reference.</p>
+<p>The information is brought down to the latest date, either in
+the Text or in the Appendix at the end.&nbsp; And the Clue-map
+has, in like manner, been filled in with the recently opened
+lines of Railway, &amp;c., as well as with indications of the
+Railways sanctioned, but not yet completed.</p>
+<h2><a name="pagevi"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+vi</span>CONTENTS.</h2>
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="GutSmall">PAGE</span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Hotel Charges</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#pageviii">viii</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">General Description</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page9">9</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">A First Glance at the City</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page15">15</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">A First Glance at the
+West-End</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Palaces and Mansions, Royal and
+Noble</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page33">33</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Houses of Parliament; Westminster
+Hall; Government Offices</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page40">40</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">St. Paul&rsquo;s; Westminster Abbey;
+Churches; Chapels; Cemeteries</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page47">47</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">British and South Kensington Museums;
+Scientific Establishments</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page62">62</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">National Gallery; Royal Academy; Art
+Exhibitions</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page68">68</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Colleges; Schools; Hospitals;
+Charities</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page70">70</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The Tower; The Mint; The Custom House;
+The General Post-Office</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page77">77</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The Corporation; Mansion House;
+Guildhall; Monument; Royal Exchange</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page84">84</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The Temple; Inns of Court; Courts of
+Justice; Prisons</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page90">90</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Banks; Insurance Offices; Stock
+Exchange; City Companies</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page93">93</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The River; Docks; Thames Tunnel;
+Bridges; Piers</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page97">97</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Food Supply; Markets; Bazaars;
+Shops</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page109">109</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Clubs; Hotels; Inns; Chop-Houses;
+Taverns; Coffee-Houses; Coffee-Shops</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page116">116</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Theatres, Concerts, and Other Places
+of Amusement</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Parks and Public Grounds; Zoological,
+Botanical, and Horticultural Gardens</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Albert Hall and International
+Exhibition</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page129">129</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">Omnibuses; Cabs; Railways;
+Steamers</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page136">136</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p><a name="pagevii"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+vii</span>SHORT EXCURSIONS&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Up the
+River</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page143">143</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<span class="smcap">Down the
+River</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page154">154</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<span class="smcap">Crystal Palace,
+&amp;c.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">APPENDIX.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p>TABLES, LISTS, AND USEFUL HINTS&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p class="gutindent">Suburban Towns and Villages, within
+Twelve Miles&rsquo; Railway-Distance</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page169">169</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p class="gutindent">Chief Omnibus Routes</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page171">171</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p class="gutindent">Tramways</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page173">173</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p class="gutindent">Clubs and Club-Houses</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page173">173</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p class="gutindent">The London Parcels&rsquo; Delivery
+Company</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page174">174</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p class="gutindent">Money-Order Offices, and Post-Office
+Savings-Banks</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page175">175</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p class="gutindent">London Letters, Postal and Telegraph
+System</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page175">175</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p class="gutindent">Reading and News-Rooms</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page176">176</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p class="gutindent">Chess-Rooms</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page177">177</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p class="gutindent">Theatres</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page177">177</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p class="gutindent">Concert Rooms</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p class="gutindent">Music Halls</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p class="gutindent">Modes of Admission to Various
+Interesting Places</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page179">179</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p class="gutindent">Principal, Public, and Turkish Baths</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page180">180</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p class="gutindent">Medicated Baths</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page181">181</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p class="gutindent">Cabs</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page182">182</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p class="gutindent">Hints to Strangers</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page183">183</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p class="gutindent">Commissionaires or Messengers</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page183">183</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">The Great Interceptive Main Drainage
+System of London</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page184">184</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>INDEX</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page185">185</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<h2><a name="pageviii"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+viii</span>HOTEL CHARGES.</h2>
+<p><span class="smcap">There</span> is only one class of hotels
+in and near London of which the charges can be stated with any
+degree of precision.&nbsp; The <i>old</i> hotels, both at the
+West-End and in the City, keep no printed tariff; they are not
+accustomed even to be asked beforehand what are their
+charges.&nbsp; Most of the visitors are more or less
+<i>recommended</i> by guests who have already sojourned at these
+establishments, and who can give information as to what
+<i>they</i> have paid.&nbsp; Some of the hotels decline to
+receive guests except by previous written application, or by
+direct introduction, and would rather be without those who would
+regard the bill with economical scrutiny.&nbsp; The <i>dining</i>
+hotels, such as the <i>London</i> and the <i>Freemasons&rsquo;
+Tavern</i>, in London, the <i>Artichoke</i> and various whitebait
+taverns at Blackwall, the <i>Trafalgar</i> and <i>Crown and
+Sceptre</i> taverns at Greenwich, and the <i>Castle</i> and
+<i>Star and Garter</i> taverns at Richmond, are costly taverns
+for dining, rather than hotels at which visitors sojourn; and the
+charges vary with every different degree of luxury in the viands
+served, and the mode of serving.&nbsp; The hotels which can be
+more easily tested, in reference to their charges, are the
+<i>joint-stock</i> undertakings.&nbsp; These are of two kinds:
+one, the hotels connected with the great railway termini, such as
+the <i>Victoria</i>, the <i>Euston</i>, the <i>Great
+Northern</i>, the <i>Great Western</i>, the <i>Grosvenor</i>, the
+<i>Charing Cross</i>, the <i>Midland</i> and <i>Cannon
+Street</i>; while the other group are unconnected with railways,
+such as the <i>Westminster Palace</i>, the <i>Langham</i>, the
+<i>Salisbury</i>, the <i>Inns of Court</i>, <i>Alexandra</i>,
+<i>&amp;c.</i></p>
+<h2><a name="page9"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+9</span>COLLINS&rsquo;<br />
+ILLUSTRATED GUIDE TO LONDON.</h2>
+<p>Whether we consider London as the metropolis of a great and
+mighty empire, upon the dominions of whose sovereign the sun
+never sets, or as the home of more than three millions of people,
+and the richest city in the world to boot, it must ever be a
+place which strangers wish to visit.&nbsp; In these days of
+railways and steamers, the toil and cost of reaching it are,
+comparatively speaking, small; and, such being the case, the
+supply of visitors has very naturally been adjusted to the
+everyday increasing opportunities of gratifying so very sensible
+a desire.&nbsp; To such persons, on their arrival at this vast
+City of the Islands, we here, if they will accept us as their
+guides, beg to offer, ere going into more minute details, a</p>
+<h2>GENERAL DESCRIPTION.</h2>
+<p>Without cumbering our narrative with the fables of dim
+legendary lore, with regard to the origin of London&mdash;or
+<i>Llyn-Din</i>, &ldquo;the town on the lake,&rdquo;&mdash;we may
+mention, that the Romans, after conquering its ancient British
+inhabitants, about <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 61, finally
+rebuilt and walled it in about <span class="smcap">a.d.</span>
+301; from which time it became, in such excellent hands, a place
+of not a little importance.&nbsp; Roman remains, such as fine
+tesselated pavements, bronzes, weapons, pottery, and coins, are
+not seldom turned up by the spade of our sturdy excavators while
+digging below the foundations of houses; and a few scanty
+fragments of the old Roman Wall, which was rather more than three
+miles round, are still to be seen.&nbsp; London, in the
+Anglo-Norman times, though confined originally by the said wall,
+grew up a dense mass of brick and wooden houses, ill arranged,
+unclean, <a name="page10"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+10</span>close, and for the most part terribly
+insalubrious.&nbsp; Pestilence was the natural consequence.&nbsp;
+Up to the great plague of 1664&ndash;5, which destroyed 68,596,
+some say 100,000 persons&mdash;there were, dating from the
+pestilence of 1348, no fewer than some nine visitations of
+widely-spreading epidemics in Old London.&nbsp; When, in 1666,
+the great fire, which burnt 13,200 houses, spread its ruins over
+436 acres, and laid waste 400 streets, came to force the Cockneys
+to mend their ways somewhat, and open out their over-cramped
+habitations, some good was effected.&nbsp; But, unfortunately,
+during the rebuilding of the City, Sir Christopher Wren&rsquo;s
+plans for laying its streets out on a more regular plan, were
+poorly attended to: hence the still incongruous condition of
+older London when compared, in many instances, with the results
+of modern architecture, with reference to air, light, and
+sanitary arrangements.&nbsp; On account of the rubbish left by
+the fire and other casualties, the City stands from twelve to
+sixteen feet higher than it did in the early part of its
+history&mdash;the roadways of Roman London, for example, being
+found on, or even below, the level of the cellars of the present
+houses.</p>
+<p>From being a city hemmed within a wall, London expanded in all
+directions, and thus gradually formed a connection with various
+clusters of dwellings in the neighbourhood.&nbsp; It has, in
+fact, absorbed towns and villages to a considerable distance
+around: the chief of these once detached seats of population
+being the city of Westminster.&nbsp; By means of bridges, it has
+also absorbed Southwark and Bermondsey, Lambeth and Vauxhall, on
+the south side of the Thames, besides many hamlets and villages
+beyond the river.</p>
+<p>By these extensions London proper, by which we mean the
+<i>City</i>, has gradually assumed, if we may so speak, the
+conditions of an existence like that of a kernel in a thickly
+surrounding and ever-growing mass.&nbsp; By the census of 1861,
+the population of the <i>City</i> was only 112,247; while
+including that with the entire metropolis, the number was
+2,803,034&mdash;or <i>twenty-five times</i> as great as the
+former!&nbsp; It may here be remarked, that the population of the
+<i>City</i> is becoming smaller every year, on account of the
+substitution of public buildings, railway stations and viaducts,
+and large warehouses, <a name="page11"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 11</span>in place of ordinary
+dwelling-houses.&nbsp; Fewer and fewer people <i>live</i> in the
+City.&nbsp; In 1851, the number was 127,869; it lessened by more
+than 15,000 between that year and 1861; while the population of
+the <i>whole</i> metropolis increased by as many as 440,000 in
+the same space of time.</p>
+<p>If we follow the Registrar-General, London, as defined by him,
+extends north and south between Norwood and Hampstead, and east
+and west between Hammersmith and Woolwich.&nbsp; Its area is
+stated as 122 square miles.&nbsp; From the census returns of
+1861, we find that its population then was 2,803,921 souls.&nbsp;
+It was, in 1871, 3,251,804.&nbsp; The real <i>city</i> population
+was 74,732.</p>
+<p>The growth of London to its present enormous size may readily
+be accounted for, when we reflect that for ages it has been the
+capital of England, and the seat of her court and legislature;
+that since the union with Scotland and Ireland, it has become a
+centre for those two countries; and that, being the resort of the
+nobility, landed gentry, and other families of opulence, it has
+drawn a vast increase of population to minister to the tastes and
+wants of those classes; while its fine natural position, lying as
+it does on the banks of a great navigable river, some sixty miles
+from the sea, and its generally salubrious site and
+soil&mdash;the greater part of London is built on gravel, or on a
+species of clay resting on sand&mdash;alike plead in its
+favour.</p>
+<p>At one time London, like ancient Babylon, might fairly have
+been called a brick-built city.&nbsp; It is so, of course, still,
+in some sense.&nbsp; But we are greatly improving: within the
+last few years a large number of stucco-fronted houses, of
+ornamental character, have been erected; and quite recently, many
+wholly of stone, apart altogether from the more important public
+buildings, which of course are of stone.&nbsp; Of distinct
+houses, there are now the prodigious number of 500,000, having,
+on an average, about 7.8 dwellers to a house.&nbsp; For our own
+part we are somewhat sceptical as to this average.&nbsp; But we
+quote it as given by a professedly good authority.</p>
+<p>The Post-Office officials ascertained that there was built in
+one year alone, as long ago as 1864, no fewer than 9,000 new
+houses.&nbsp; <a name="page12"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+12</span>Though, by comparison with the houses of Edinburgh and
+some other parts of the kingdom, many of these are small
+structures, with but two rooms, often communicating, on a floor,
+a visitor to London will find no difficulty in seeing acres of
+substantial residences around him as he strolls along through the
+wide, quiet squares of Bloomsbury, the stuccoed and more
+aristocratic quarters of Belgravia and South Kensington, or by
+the old family mansions of the nobility and gentry in, say,
+Cavendish, Grosvenor, or Portman Squares, and the large and more
+modern houses of many of our wealthy citizens in Tyburnia and
+Westburnia, farther westward of the Marble Arch.&nbsp; But of
+this more anon.</p>
+<p>We have often heard foreigners laughingly remark of sundry
+London houses&mdash;apropos of the deep, open, sunk areas,
+bordered by iron railings, of many of them&mdash;that they
+illustrate, in some sense, our English reserve, and love of
+carrying out our island proverb&mdash;viz., that &ldquo;every
+Englishman&rsquo;s house is his castle,&rdquo;&mdash;in its
+entirety, by each man barricading himself off from his neighbours
+advances by a fortified <i>fosse</i>!</p>
+<p>Without particular reference to municipal distinctions, London
+may (to convey a general idea to strangers) be divided into four
+principal portions&mdash;the <i>City</i>, which is the centre of
+corporate influence, and where the greatest part of the business
+is conducted; the <i>East End</i>, in which are the docks, and
+various commercial arrangements for shipping; the <i>West
+End</i>, in which are the palaces of the Queen and Royal family,
+the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey, and the residences
+of most of the nobility and gentry; and the <i>Southwark and
+Lambeth</i> division, lying on the south side of the Thames,
+containing many manufacturing establishments, but few public
+buildings of interest.&nbsp; Besides these, the northern suburbs,
+which include the once detached villages of Hampstead, Highgate,
+Stoke Newington, Islington, Kingsland, Hackney, Hornsey,
+Holloway, &amp;c., and consist chiefly of private dwellings for
+the mercantile and middle classes, may be considered a peculiar
+and distinct division.&nbsp; It is, however, nowhere possible to
+say (except when separated by the river) exactly where any one
+division begins or ends; throughout the vast compass of the city
+and <a name="page13"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+13</span>suburbs, there is a blending of one division with that
+contiguous to it.&nbsp; The outskirts, on all sides, comprise
+long rows or groups of villas, some detached or semi-detached,
+with small lawns or gardens.</p>
+<p>The poet Cowper, in his <i>Task</i>, more than a hundred years
+ago, appreciatively spoke of</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The villas with which London stands
+begirt,<br />
+Like a swarth Indian with his belt of beads.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>We wonder what he would think now of the many houses of this
+kind which extend, in some directions, so far out of town, that
+there seems to be no getting beyond them into the country.</p>
+<p>From the Surrey division there extends southward and westward
+a great number of those ranges of neat private dwellings, as, for
+instance, towards Camberwell, Kennington, Clapham, Brixton,
+Dulwich, Norwood, Sydenham, &amp;c.; and in these directions lie
+some of the most pleasant spots in the environs of the
+metropolis.</p>
+<p>The flowing of the Thames from west to east through the
+metropolis has given a general direction to the lines of street;
+the principal thoroughfares being, in some measure, parallel to
+the river, with the inferior, or at least shorter, streets
+branching from them.&nbsp; Intersecting the town lengthwise, or
+from east to west, are three great leading thoroughfares at a
+short distance from each other, but gradually diverging at their
+western extremity.&nbsp; One of these routes begins in the
+eastern environs, near Blackwall, and extends along Whitechapel,
+Leadenhall Street, Cornhill, the Poultry, Cheapside, Newgate
+Street, Holborn, and Oxford Street.&nbsp; The other may be
+considered as starting at London Bridge, and passing up King
+William Street into Cheapside, at the western end of which it
+makes a bend round St. Paul&rsquo;s Churchyard; thence proceeds
+down Ludgate Hill, along Fleet Street and the Strand to Charing
+Cross, where it sends a branch off to the left to Whitehall, and
+another diagonally to the right, up Cockspur Street; this leads
+forward into Pall Mall, and sends an offshoot up Waterloo Place
+into Piccadilly, which proceeds westward to Hyde Park
+Corner.&nbsp; These two are the main lines in the metropolis, and
+are among the first traversed by strangers.&nbsp; It will be
+observed that they unite in Cheapside, which therefore becomes an
+excessively crowded <a name="page14"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+14</span>thoroughfare, particularly at the busy hours of the
+day.&nbsp; More than 1000 vehicles <i>per hour</i> pass through
+this street in the business period of an average day, besides
+foot-passengers!&nbsp; To ease the traffic in Cheapside, a
+spacious new thoroughfare, New Cannon Street, has been opened,
+from near London Bridge westward to St. Paul&rsquo;s
+Churchyard.&nbsp; The third main line of route is not so much
+thronged, nor so interesting to strangers.&nbsp; It may be
+considered as beginning at the Bank, and passing through the City
+Road and the New Road to Paddington and Westbourne.&nbsp; The New
+Road here mentioned has been re-named in three
+sections&mdash;Pentonville Road, from Islington to King&rsquo;s
+Cross; Euston Road, from King&rsquo;s Cross to Regent&rsquo;s
+Park; and Marylebone Road, from Regent&rsquo;s Park to
+Paddington.&nbsp; The main cross branches in the metropolis
+are&mdash;Farringdon Street, leading from Blackfriars Bridge to
+Holborn, and thence by Victoria Street to the King&rsquo;s Cross
+Station; the Haymarket, leading from Cockspur Street; and Regent
+Street, already mentioned.&nbsp; There are several important
+streets leading northward from the Holborn and Oxford Street
+line&mdash;such as Portland Place, Tottenham Court Road, King
+Street, and Gray&rsquo;s Inn Lane.&nbsp; The principal one in the
+east is St. Martin&rsquo;s-le-Grand and Aldersgate Street, which,
+by Goswell Street, lead to Islington; others
+are&mdash;Bishopsgate Street, leading to Shoreditch and Hackney;
+and Moorgate Street, leading northwards.&nbsp; A route stretching
+somewhat north-east&mdash;Whitechapel and Mile End
+Roads&mdash;connects the metropolis with Essex.&nbsp; It is a
+matter of general complaint that there are so few great channels
+of communication through London both lengthwise and crosswise;
+for the inferior streets, independently of their complex
+bearings, are much too narrow for regular traffic.&nbsp; But this
+grievance, let us hope, is in a fair way of abatement, thanks to
+sundry fine new streets, and to the Thames Embankment, which,
+proceeding along the northern shore of the river, now furnishes a
+splendid thoroughfare right away from Westminster Bridge to
+Blackfriars Bridge, by means of which the public are now enabled
+to arrive at the Mansion House by a wide street&mdash;called
+Queen Victoria Street, and, by the Metropolitan District Railway,
+to save time on this route from the west.</p>
+<p><a name="page15"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 15</span>We
+shall have occasion again to allude to the Thames Embankment some
+pages on, and therefore, for the present, we will take</p>
+<h2>A FIRST GLANCE AT THE CITY.</h2>
+<p>London is too vast a place to be traversed in the limited time
+which strangers usually have at their disposal.&nbsp;
+Nevertheless, we may rapidly survey the main lines of route from
+east to west, with some of the branching offshoots.&nbsp; All the
+more important buildings, and places of public interest, will be
+found specially described under the headings to which they
+properly belong.</p>
+<p>The most striking view in the interior of the city is at the
+open central space whence Threadneedle Street, Cornhill, Lombard
+Street, King William Street, Walbrook, Cheapside, and Princes
+Street, radiate in seven different directions.&nbsp; (See
+illustration.)&nbsp; While the corner of the Bank of England
+abuts on this space on the north, it is flanked on the south by
+the Mansion House, and on the east by the Royal Exchange.&nbsp;
+It would be a curious speculation to inquire how much money has
+been spent in constructions and reconstructions in and around
+this spot during half a century.&nbsp; The sum must be
+stupendous.&nbsp; Before new London Bridge was opened, the
+present King William Street did not exist; to construct it,
+houses by the score, perhaps by the hundred, had to be pulled
+down.&nbsp; Many years earlier, when the Bank of England was
+rebuilt, and a few years later, when the Royal Exchange was
+rebuilt, vast destructions of property took place, to make room
+for structures larger than those which had previously existed for
+the same purposes.&nbsp; For some distance up all the radii of
+which we have spoken, the arteries which lead from this heart of
+the commercial world, a similar process has been going on to a
+greater or less extent.&nbsp; Banking-houses, insurance-offices,
+and commercial buildings, have been built or rebuilt at an
+immense cost, the outlay depending rather on the rapidly
+increasing value of the ground than on the actual charge for
+building.&nbsp; If this particular portion of the city, this busy
+centre of wealth, should ever be invaded by such railway schemes
+as 1864, 1865, and 1866 produced, it is difficult to imagine what
+amounts would have to be <a name="page16"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 16</span>paid for the purchase and removal of
+property.&nbsp; Time was when a hundred thousand pounds per mile
+was a frightful sum for railways; but railway directors (in
+London at least) do not now look aghast at a million sterling per
+mile&mdash;as witness the South-Eastern and the Chatham and Dover
+Companies, concerning which we shall have to say more in a future
+page.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p16b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Bank of England, Royal Exchange, Mansion House, &amp;c.
+(Cornhill, Lombard, Threadneedle Streets.)"
+title=
+"Bank of England, Royal Exchange, Mansion House, &amp;c.
+(Cornhill, Lombard, Threadneedle Streets.)"
+src="images/p16s.jpg" />
+</a> <a name="citation16"></a><a href="#footnote16"
+class="citation">[16]</a></p>
+<p>The seven radii of which we have spoken may be thus briefly
+described, as a preliminary guide to visitors: 1.&nbsp; Leaving
+this wonderfully-busy centre by the north, with the Poultry on
+one hand and the Bank of England on the other, we pass in front
+of many fine new commercial buildings in Princes and Moorgate <a
+name="page17"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 17</span>Streets;
+indeed, there is not an old house here, for both are entirely
+modern streets, penetrating through what used to be a close mass
+of small streets and alleys.&nbsp; Other fine banking and
+commercial buildings may be seen stretching along either side in
+Lothbury and Gresham Streets.&nbsp; Farther towards the north, a
+visitor would reach the Finsbury Square region, beyond which the
+establishments are of less important character.&nbsp; 2. If,
+instead of leaving this centre by the north, he turns north-east,
+he will pass through Threadneedle Street between the Bank and the
+Royal Exchange; 
+<a href="images/p17b.jpg">
+<img class='clearcenter' alt=
+"King William Street, Gracechurch Street, &amp;c.  (Bank and
+Royal Exchange in the distance.)"
+title=
+"King William Street, Gracechurch Street, &amp;c.  (Bank and
+Royal Exchange in the distance.)"
+src="images/p17s.jpg" />
+</a> next will be found the Stock Exchange, on the left hand;
+then the Sun Fire Office, and the Bank of London (formerly the
+Hall of Commerce); on the opposite side the City Bank, Merchant
+Taylor&rsquo;s School, and the building that was once the South
+Sea House; beyond these is the great centre for foreign merchants
+in Broad Street, Winchester Street, Austin Friars, and the
+vicinity.&nbsp; 3. If, <a name="page18"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 18</span>again, the route be selected due
+east, there will come into view the famous Cornhill, with its
+Royal Exchange, its well-stored shops, and its alleys on either
+side crowded with merchants, brokers, bankers, coffee-houses, and
+chop-houses; beyond this, Bishopsgate Street branches out on the
+left, and Gracechurch Street on the right, both full of memorials
+of commercial London; and farther east still, Leadenhall Street,
+with new buildings on the site of the late East India House,
+leads to the Jews&rsquo; Quarter around Aldgate and
+Houndsditch&mdash;a strange region, which few visitors to London
+think of exploring.&nbsp; &ldquo;Petticoat Lane,&rdquo; perhaps
+one of the most extraordinary marts for old clothes, &amp;c., is
+on the left of Aldgate High Street.&nbsp; It is well worth a
+visit by connoisseurs of queer life and character, who are able
+to take care of themselves, and remember to leave their valuables
+at home.&nbsp; 4. The fourth route from the great city centre
+leads through Lombard Street and Fenchurch Street&mdash;the one
+the head-quarters of the great banking firms of London; the other
+exhibiting many commercial buildings of late erection: while
+Mincing Lane and Mark Lane are the head-quarters for many
+branches of the foreign, colonial, and corn trades.&nbsp; 5. The
+fifth route takes the visitor through King William Street to the
+Monument, Fish Street Hill, Billingsgate, the Corn Exchange, the
+Custom House, the Thames Subway, the Tower, the Docks, the Thames
+Tunnel, London Bridge, and a host of interesting places, the
+proper examination of which would require something more than
+merely a brief visit to London.&nbsp; Opposite this quarter, on
+the Surrey side of the river, are numerous shipping wharfs,
+warehouses, porter breweries, and granaries.&nbsp; The fire that
+occurred at Cotton&rsquo;s wharf and dep&ocirc;t and other wharfs
+near Tooley Street, in June, 1861, illustrated the vast scale on
+which merchandise is collected in the warehouses and wharfs
+hereabout. <a name="citation18"></a><a href="#footnote18"
+class="citation">[18]</a>&nbsp; Of the dense mass of streets
+lying away from <a name="page19"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+19</span>the river, and eastward of the city proper, comprising
+Spitalfields, Bethnal Green, Whitechapel, Stepney, &amp;c.,
+little need be said here; the population is immense, but,
+excepting the Bethnal Green Museum and Victoria Park, there are
+few objects interesting; nevertheless the observers of social
+life in its humbler phases would find much to learn here.&nbsp;
+6. The southern route from the great city centre takes the
+visitor, by the side of the Mansion House, through the new
+thoroughfare, Queen Victoria Street&mdash;referred to at a
+previous page&mdash;to the river-side.</p>
+<p>It will therefore be useful for a stranger to bear in mind,
+that the best centre of observation in the city is the open spot
+between the Bank, the Mansion House, and the Royal Exchange;
+where more omnibuses assemble than at any other spot in the
+world; and whence he can ramble in any one of seven different
+directions, sure of meeting with something illustrative of city
+life.&nbsp; The 7th route, not yet noticed, we will now follow,
+as it proceeds towards the West End.</p>
+<p>The great central thoroughfare of Cheapside, which is closely
+lined with the shops of silversmiths and other wealthy tradesmen,
+is one of the oldest and most famous streets in the
+city&mdash;intimately associated with the municipal glories of
+London for centuries past.&nbsp; Many of the houses in Cheapside
+and Cornhill have lately been rebuilt on a scale of much
+grandeur.&nbsp; Some small plots of ground in this vicinity have
+been sold at the rate of nearly <i>one million sterling</i> per
+acre!&nbsp; On each side of Cheapside, narrow streets diverge
+into the dense mass behind&mdash;Ironmonger Lane, King Street,
+Milk Street, and Wood Street, on the north; and among others,
+Queen Street, Bread Street, where Milton was born, and where
+stood the famous Mermaid Tavern, where Shakespeare and Raleigh,
+Ben Jonson and his young friends, Beaumont and Fletcher, those
+twin-dramatists, loved to meet, to enjoy &ldquo;the feast of
+reason and the flow of soul,&rdquo; to say nothing of a few
+flagons of good Canary wine, Bow Lane, and Old &rsquo;Change, on
+the south.&nbsp; The greater part of these back streets, with the
+lanes adjoining, are occupied by the offices or warehouses of
+wholesale dealers in cloth, silk, hosiery, lace, &amp;c., and are
+resorted to by London and country shopkeepers for <a
+name="page20"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+20</span>supplies.&nbsp; Across the north end of King Street
+stands the Guildhall; and a little west, the City of London
+School and Goldsmiths&rsquo; Hall.&nbsp; At the western end of
+Cheapside is a statue of the late Sir Robert Peel, by
+Behnes.&nbsp; Northward of this point, in St.
+Martin&rsquo;s-le-Grand, are the buildings of the Post and
+Telegraph Offices; beyond this the curious old Charter House; and
+then a line of business streets leading towards Islington.&nbsp;
+Westward are two streets, parallel with each other, and both too
+narrow for the trade to be accommodated in them&mdash;Newgate
+Street, celebrated for its Blue Coat Boys and, till the recent
+removal of the market to Smithfield, for its carcass butchers;
+and Paternoster Row, still more celebrated for its publishers and
+booksellers.&nbsp; In Panyer Alley, leading out of Newgate
+Street, is an old stone bearing the inscription:</p>
+<blockquote><p>When y<sup>e</sup> have sovgh<sup>t</sup> the
+citty rovnd,<br />
+Yet stil this is the highs<sup>t</sup> grovnd.</p>
+<p style="text-align: right">Avgvst the 27, 1688. <a
+name="citation20"></a><a href="#footnote20"
+class="citation">[20]</a></p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p20b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Old stone"
+title=
+"Old stone"
+src="images/p20s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>At the west end of Newgate Street a turning to the right gives
+access to the once celebrated Smithfield and St. John&rsquo;s
+Gate.&nbsp; South-west of Cheapside stands St. Paul&rsquo;s
+Cathedral, that first and greatest of all the landmarks of
+London.&nbsp; In the immediate vicinity of St. Paul&rsquo;s, the
+names of many streets and lanes (Paternoster Row, Amen Corner,
+Ave Maria Lane, Creed Lane, Godliman Street, &amp;c.) give token
+of their former connection with the religious structure and its
+clerical attendants.&nbsp; The enclosed churchyard is surrounded
+by a street closely hemmed in with houses, now chiefly dedicated
+to trade: those on the south side being mostly wholesale, those
+on the north retail.&nbsp; An open arched passage on the south
+side of the churchyard leads to Doctors&rsquo; Commons, once the
+headquarters of the ecclesiastical lawyers.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page21"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 21</span>
+<a href="images/p21b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"St. Paul&rsquo;s, West End of Cheapside, Paternoster Row,
+&amp;c.  (Newgate Street and Fleet Street in the distance.)"
+title=
+"St. Paul&rsquo;s, West End of Cheapside, Paternoster Row,
+&amp;c.  (Newgate Street and Fleet Street in the distance.)"
+src="images/p21s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Starting from St. Paul&rsquo;s Churchyard westward, we proceed
+down Ludgate Street and Ludgate Hill, places named from the old
+Lud-gate, which once formed one of the entrances to the city
+&lsquo;within the walls.&rsquo;&nbsp; The Old Bailey, on the
+right, contains the Central Criminal Court and Newgate Prison,
+noted places in connection with the trial and punishment of
+criminals.&nbsp; On the left of Ludgate Hill is a maze of narrow
+streets; among which the chief buildings are the new Ludgate Hill
+Railway Station, Apothecaries&rsquo; Hall, and the printing
+office of the all-powerful <i>Times</i> newspaper, in
+Printing-House Square.&nbsp; The printer of the <i>Times</i>, Mr.
+Goodlake, if applied to by letter, enclosing card of any
+respectable person, will grant an order to go over it, at 11
+o&rsquo;clock only, when the second edition of &ldquo;the
+Thunderer&rdquo; is going to press.&nbsp; At the bottom of
+Ludgate Hill we come to the valley in which the once celebrated
+Fleet River, now only a covered sewer, ran north and <a
+name="page22"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 22</span>south from
+St. Pancras to Blackfriars, where it entered the Thames.&nbsp; A
+new street, called Victoria Street, formed by pulling down many
+poor and dilapidated houses, marks part of this valley; while
+Farringdon Street, where a market, mostly for green stuff, is
+held, occupies another part.&nbsp; Newgate Street and Ludgate
+Hill are on the east of the Fleet Valley; Holborn and Fleet
+Street on the west.&nbsp; The Holborn Valley Viaduct crosses at
+this spot.&nbsp; And of this wonderful triumph of engineering
+skill we have now to speak.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p22b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Holborn Valley Viaduct"
+title=
+"Holborn Valley Viaduct"
+src="images/p22s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>It was an eventful day in the annals of the Corporation of the
+City of London, when Queen Victoria, on November 6, 1869,
+declared Blackfriars Bridge&mdash;about which more
+hereafter&mdash;and Holborn Valley Viaduct formally open.&nbsp;
+The Holborn Valley improvements, it should be remembered, were
+nothing short of the actual demolition and reconstruction of a
+whole district, formerly either squalid, over-blocked, and
+dilapidated in some parts, or over-steep and dangerous to traffic
+in others.&nbsp; But a short time ago that same Holborn Valley
+was one of the most heart-breaking <a name="page23"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 23</span>impediments to horse-traffic in
+London.&nbsp; Imagine Holborn Hill sloping at a gradient of 1 in
+18, while the opposite rising ground of Skinner Street&mdash;now
+happily done away&mdash;rose at about 1 in 20.&nbsp; Figure to
+yourself the fact, that everything on wheels, and every foot
+passenger entering the City by the Holborn route, had to descend
+26 feet to the Valley of the Fleet, and then ascend a like number
+to Newgate, and you will at once see the grand utility of
+levelling up so objectionable a hollow.&nbsp; To attempt to give
+a stranger to London even a faint idea of what has been
+accomplished by Mr. Haywood&rsquo;s engineering skill, by a
+necessarily brief description here, is an invidious task.&nbsp;
+Nevertheless, we must essay it; premising, by-the-by, that if our
+readers while in London do not go to see the Viaduct for
+themselves, our trouble will be three parte thrown away.&nbsp;
+The whole structure is cellular, to begin with.&nbsp; To strip
+the subject of crabbed technicalities, imagine for a moment a
+long succession of&mdash;let us call them&mdash;railway-like
+arches supporting the carriage-way: these large vaults being
+available for other purposes.&nbsp; Outside this carriage-way,
+and under the edge of the foot-paths on either side, is a subway,
+some 7 feet wide and 11 feet or so high.&nbsp; Against the walls
+of this sub-way are fixed, readily connectable, gas mains and
+water mains and telegraph tubes.&nbsp; This was the first time
+all these important pipes had been so cleverly arranged in one
+easily accessible place.&nbsp; They are ventilated and partially
+lighted through the pavement, and by gas.&nbsp; Under each
+sub-way goes a sewer, with a path beside it for the sewer men
+when at work.&nbsp; Outside the sub-way are ordinary house vaults
+of two or three storeys high, according to the height of the
+Viaduct.&nbsp; These are divided by transverse walls; and, when
+houses are built against it, the Holborn Valley Viaduct will be
+shut out from sight, except in the case of the simple iron girder
+bridge over Shoe Lane, and the London, Chatham, and Dover bridge,
+with its sub-ways for gas and water pipes, and the fine bridge
+over Farringdon Street.&nbsp; You will, we trust, now see how
+marvellously every yard of space has been utilized by the
+engineer, from the roadway down to the very foundations.&nbsp; A
+few words must now be said about the splendid bridge over
+Farringdon Street.&nbsp; This has public staircases running <a
+name="page24"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 24</span>up inside
+handsome stone buildings&mdash;the upper parts of which have been
+let for business purposes.&nbsp; It is a handsome skew bridge of
+iron, toned to a deep bronze green by enamel paint, and richly
+ornamented; its plinths above ground, its moulded bases, and its
+shafts, are respectively of grey, black, and exquisitely polished
+red granite.&nbsp; Its capitals are of grey granite, also
+polished, and set off by bronze foliage.&nbsp; Bronze lions, and
+four statues of Fine Art, Science, Commerce, and Agriculture,
+stand on the parapet-line on handsome plinths.&nbsp; These, and
+the projecting balconies and dormer window of the stone buildings
+just named, with their four statues of bygone civic
+worthies,&mdash;Fitz Aylwin, Sir William Walworth, Sir Thomas
+Gresham, and Sir Hugh Myddleton,&mdash;enhance the effect of the
+whole.</p>
+<p>Poor Chatterton, &ldquo;the marvellous boy, the sleepless soul
+that perished in his pride,&rdquo; after poisoning himself, in
+1770, ere he was eighteen years of age, in Brooke Street, on the
+north side of Holborn, was laid in a pauper&rsquo;s grave, in
+what was then the burying-ground of Shoe Lane Workhouse, and is
+now converted to very different purposes.</p>
+<p>Let us now come to Fleet Street.&nbsp; This
+thoroughfare&mdash;the main artery from St. Paul&rsquo;s to the
+west&mdash;for many years has been emphatically one of literary
+associations, full as it is of newspaper and
+printing-offices.&nbsp; The late Angus B. Reach used humorously
+to call it, &ldquo;The march of intellect.&rdquo;&nbsp; Wynkyn de
+Worde, the early printer, lived here, and two of his books were
+&ldquo;fynysshed and emprynted in Flete Streete, in ye syne of ye
+Sonne.&rdquo;&nbsp; The <i>Devil</i> tavern, which stood near
+Temple Bar, on the south side, was a favourite hostelrie of Ben
+Jonson.&nbsp; At the <i>Mitre</i>, near Mitre Court, Dr. Johnson,
+Goldsmith, and Boswell, held frequent rendezvous.&nbsp; The
+<i>Cock</i> was one of the oldest and least altered taverns in
+Fleet Street.&nbsp; The present poet-laureate, in one of his
+early poems, &ldquo;A Monologue of Will Waterproof,&rdquo; has
+immortalized it, in the lines beginning&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Thou plump head waiter at the
+<i>Cock</i>,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; To which I most resort,<br />
+How goes the time?&nbsp; Is &rsquo;t nine o&rsquo;clock?<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; Then fetch a pint of port!&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page25"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 25</span>
+<a href="images/p25b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Fleet Street from Mitre Court to Temple Bar.  (The Temple, the
+River, Lambeth, and Houses of Parliament in the distance.)"
+title=
+"Fleet Street from Mitre Court to Temple Bar.  (The Temple, the
+River, Lambeth, and Houses of Parliament in the distance.)"
+src="images/p25s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Dr. Johnson lived many years either in Fleet Street, in Gough
+Square, in the Temple, in Johnson&rsquo;s Court, in Bolt Court,
+&amp;c., &amp;c.; and in Bolt Court he died.&nbsp; William
+Cobbett, and Ferguson the astronomer, were also among the
+dwellers in that court.&nbsp; John Murray (the elder) began the
+publishing business in Falcon Court.&nbsp; Some of the early
+meetings of the Royal Society and of the Society of Arts took
+place in Crane Court.&nbsp; Dryden and Richardson both lived in
+Salisbury Court.&nbsp; Shire Lane (now Lower Serle&rsquo;s
+Place), close to Temple Bar on the north, can count the names of
+Steele and Ashmole among its former inhabitants.&nbsp; Izaak
+Walton lived a little way up Chancery Lane.&nbsp; At the
+confectioner&rsquo;s shop, nearly opposite that lane, Pope and
+Warburton first met.&nbsp; Sir Symonds <a name="page26"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 26</span>D&rsquo;Ewes, &lsquo;Praise-God
+Barebones,&rsquo; Michael Drayton, and Cowley the poet, all lived
+in this street.&nbsp; Many of the courts, about a dozen in
+number, branching out of Fleet Street on the north and south, are
+so narrow that a stranger would miss them unless on the
+alert.&nbsp; Child&rsquo;s Banking House, the oldest in London,
+is at the western extremity of Fleet Street, on the south side,
+and also occupies the room over the arch of Temple Bar.&nbsp; St.
+Bride&rsquo;s Church exhibits one of Wren&rsquo;s best
+steeples.&nbsp; St. Dunstan&rsquo;s Church, before it was
+modernized, had two wooden giants in front, that struck the hours
+with clubs on two bells&mdash;a duty which they still fulfil in
+the gardens belonging to the mansion of the Marquis of Hertford
+in the Regent&rsquo;s Park.&nbsp; North of Fleet Street are
+several of the <i>Inns of Court</i>, where lawyers congregate;
+and southward is the most famous of all such Inns, the large
+group of buildings constituting the <i>Temple</i>.&nbsp; In the
+cluster of buildings lying east from the Temple once existed the
+sanctuary of Whitefriars, or <i>Alsatia</i>, as it was sometimes
+called, a description of which is given by Scott in the
+<i>Fortunes of Nigel</i>.&nbsp; The streets here are still narrow
+and of an inferior order, but all appearance of Alsatians and
+their pranks is gone.&nbsp; The boundary of the city, at the
+western termination of Fleet Street, is marked by Temple Bar,
+consisting of a wide central archway, and a smaller archway at
+each side for foot-passengers.&nbsp; There are doors in the main
+avenue which can be shut at pleasure; but, practically, they are
+never closed, except on the occasion of some state ceremonial,
+when the lord mayor affects an act of grace in opening them to
+royalty.&nbsp; The structure was designed by Sir Christopher
+Wren, and erected in 1672.&nbsp; The heads of decapitated
+criminals, after being boiled in pitch to preserve them, were
+exposed on iron spikes on the top of the Bar.&nbsp; Horace
+Walpole, in his <i>Letters</i> to Montague, mentions the fact of
+a man in Fleet Street letting out &ldquo;spy-glasses,&rdquo; at a
+penny a peep, to passers-by, when the heads of some of the
+hapless Jacobites were so exposed.&nbsp; The last heads exhibited
+there were those of two Jacobite gentlemen who took part in the
+rebellion of 1745, and were executed in that year.&nbsp; Their
+heads remained a ghastly spectacle to the citizens till 1772,
+when they were blown down one night in a gale of wind.</p>
+<p><a name="page27"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 27</span>Having
+thus noticed some of the interesting objects east of Temple Bar,
+we will now take</p>
+<h2>A FIRST GLANCE AT THE WEST END.</h2>
+<p>The Strand&mdash;so called because it lies along the bank of
+the river, now hidden by houses&mdash;is a long, somewhat
+irregularly built street, in continuation westward from Temple
+Bar; the thoroughfare being incommoded by two churches&mdash;St.
+Clement Dane&rsquo;s and St. Mary&rsquo;s&mdash;in the middle of
+the road.&nbsp; On the site of the latter church once stood the
+old Strand Maypole.&nbsp; The new <i>Palace of Justice</i>, about
+whose site there have been so many Parliamentary discussions,
+will stand on what is at present a huge unsightly space of
+boarded-in waste ground, formerly occupied by a few good houses,
+between Temple Bar and Clement&rsquo;s Inn, and many wretched
+back-slums.&nbsp; Not having the gift of prophecy as to its
+future, and warned by so many long delays in its case, we hazard
+no conjecture as to the time when it will gladden our eyes.&nbsp;
+In the seventeenth century the Strand was a species of country
+road, connecting the city with Westminster; and on its southern
+side stood a number of noblemen&rsquo;s residences, with gardens
+towards the river.&nbsp; The pleasant days are long since past
+when mansions and personages, political events and holiday
+festivities, marked the spots now denoted by Essex, Norfolk,
+Howard, Arundel, Surrey, Cecil, Salisbury, Buckingham, Villiers,
+Craven, and Northumberland Streets&mdash;a very galaxy of
+aristocratic names.&nbsp; The most conspicuous building on the
+left-hand side is Somerset House, a vast range of government
+offices.&nbsp; Adjoining this on the east (occupying the site
+once intended for an east wing to that structure), and entering
+by a passage from the Strand, is a range of rather plain, but
+massive brick buildings, erected about thirty years ago for the
+accommodation of King&rsquo;s College; and adjoining it on the
+west, abutting on the street leading to Waterloo Bridge, is a
+still newer range of buildings appropriated to government
+offices&mdash;forming a west wing to the whole mass.&nbsp; The
+Strand contains no other public structure of architectural
+importance, except the spacious new Charing Cross Railway Station
+and Hotel on the south side.&nbsp; The eastern half of <a
+name="page28"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 28</span>the Strand,
+however, is thickly surrounded by theatres&mdash;Drury Lane,
+Covent Garden, the Olympic, the Charing Cross, the Adelphi, the
+Vaudeville, the Lyceum, the Gaiety (built on the site of Exeter
+&rsquo;Change and the late Strand Music Hall, as is the
+Queen&rsquo;s on that of St. Martin&rsquo;s Hall in Long Acre),
+the Globe, and the Strand Theatres, are all situated
+hereabouts.&nbsp; Exeter Hall is close by, and&mdash;pardon the
+contrast of ideas&mdash;so is Evans&rsquo;s Hotel and Supper
+Rooms, long famous for old English glees, madrigals, chops and
+steaks, and as a place for friendly re-unions, without the
+objectionable features of many musical halls.</p>
+<p>Northumberland House, the large mansion with the lion on the
+summit, overlooking Charing Cross, is the ancestral town
+residence of the Percies, Dukes of Northumberland.&nbsp; Over the
+way is St. Martin&rsquo;s Church, where lie the bones of many
+famous London watermen&mdash;the churchyard used to be called
+&ldquo;The Waterman&rsquo;s Churchyard&rdquo;&mdash;and those of
+that too celebrated scoundrel and housebreaker, Jack Sheppard,
+hanged in 1724.&nbsp; There also lies the once famous sculptor,
+Roubilac, several monuments from whose chisel you can see in
+Westminster Abbey.&nbsp; Here, too, are interred the witty, but
+somewhat licentious dramatist, Farquhar, author of <i>The
+Beau&rsquo;s Stratagem</i>; the illustrious Robert Boyle, a
+philosopher not altogether unworthy to be named in the same
+category with Lord Bacon and Sir Isaac Newton; and John Hunter,
+the distinguished anatomist.</p>
+<p>The open space is called Charing Cross, from the old village
+of Charing, where stood a cross erected by Edward the First, in
+memory of his Queen Eleanor.&nbsp; Wherever her bier rested,
+there her sorrowful husband erected a cross, or, as Hood
+whimsically said, in his usual punning vein, apropos of the cross
+at Tottenham,</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;A Royal game of Fox and Goose<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; To play for such a loss;<br />
+Wherever she put down her orts,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; There he&mdash;set up a <i>cross</i>!&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>At the time of the Reformation you could have walked with
+fields all the way on the north side of you from the city to
+Charing Cross.&nbsp; The history of the fine statue of Charles
+the First, by Le S&oelig;ur, is <a name="page29"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 29</span>curious.&nbsp; It was made in Charles
+the First&rsquo;s reign, but, on the civil war breaking out ere
+it could be erected, was sold by the Parliament to a brazier, who
+was ordered to demolish it.&nbsp; He, however, buried it, and it
+remained underground till after the Restoration, when it was
+erected in 1674.&nbsp; It marks a central point for the West
+End.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p29b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Trafalgar Square"
+title=
+"Trafalgar Square"
+src="images/p29s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Southward are Whitehall and the Palace of Westminster; to the
+west, Spring Gardens, leading into St. James&rsquo;s Park;
+north-west lie Pall Mall and Regent Street.&nbsp; By-the-way, it
+just occurs to us that the old game <i>Paille Maille</i>, from
+which Pall Mall took its name, was a sort of antique forerunner
+of croquet!&nbsp; The former game, much beloved by Charles the
+Second, was played by striking a wooden ball with a mallet
+through hoops of iron, one of which stood at each end of an
+alley.&nbsp; Eastward is the Strand.&nbsp; On the north,
+Trafalgar Square, with Nelson&rsquo;s statue and Landseer&rsquo;s
+four noble lions couchant&mdash;which alone are worth a
+visit&mdash;at its base.&nbsp; There are also statues to George
+IV., Sir Charles James Napier, <a name="page30"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 30</span>and Sir Henry Havelock.&nbsp; A
+statue of George the Third&mdash;with, we think, in an equestrian
+sense, one of the best &ldquo;seats&rdquo; for a horseman in
+London&mdash;is close by.&nbsp; The National Gallery bounds the
+northern side.&nbsp; Of the two wells which supply the fountains
+in this square, one is no less than 400 feet deep.</p>
+<p>Turning southward from this important western centre, the
+visitor will come upon the range of national and government
+buildings&mdash;the Admiralty, the Horse Guards, the Treasury,
+the Home Office, &amp;c., &amp;c.&mdash;in Whitehall, particulars
+of which will be given a few pages further on under <i>Government
+Offices</i>.&nbsp; Then there are the fine Banqueting House at
+Whitehall, and some rather majestic mansions in and near
+Whitehall Gardens&mdash;especially one just erected by the Duke
+of Buccleuch.&nbsp; Beyond these, in the same general direction,
+are the magnificent Houses of Parliament, Marochetti&rsquo;s
+equestrian statue of Richard C&oelig;ur de Lion, Westminster
+Abbey, Westminster Hall, Mr. Page&rsquo;s beautiful new
+Westminster Bridge, and a number of other objects well worthy of
+attention.</p>
+<p>Returning to Charing Cross, the stranger may pursue his tour
+through Cockspur Street to Pall Mall, and thence proceed up
+Regent Street.&nbsp; As he enters this new line of route, he will
+perceive that the buildings assume a more important aspect.&nbsp;
+They are for the most part stucco-fronted, and being frequently
+re-painted, they have a light and cheerful appearance.&nbsp; In
+the Haymarket are Her Majesty&rsquo;s Theatre and the Haymarket
+Theatre; and near at hand are many club-houses and
+Exhibition-rooms.&nbsp; Pall Mall displays a range of
+stone-fronted club-houses of great magnificence.&nbsp; At the
+foot of Regent Street is the short broad thoroughfare of Waterloo
+Place, lined with noble houses, and leading southwards to St.
+James&rsquo;s Park.&nbsp; Here stands the column dedicated to the
+late Duke of York; not far from which is the Guards&rsquo;
+Memorial, having reference to troops who fell in the
+Crimea.&nbsp; From this point, for about a mile in a northerly
+direction, is the line of Waterloo Place, Regent Street, and
+Portland Place, forming the handsomest street in London.&nbsp; At
+a point a short way up we cross Piccadilly, and enter a curve in
+the thoroughfare, called the Quadrant; at the corners of which,
+and also in Upper Regent Street, are some of the <a
+name="page31"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 31</span>most splendid
+shops in London, several being decorated in a style of great
+magnificence.&nbsp; Regent Street, during the busy season in May
+and June, and during the day from one till six o&rsquo;clock,
+exhibits an extraordinary concourse of fashionable vehicles and
+foot-passengers; while groups of carriages are drawn up at the
+doors of the more elegant shops.&nbsp; Towards its upper
+extremity Regent Street crosses Oxford Street.&nbsp; The mass of
+streets west from it consist almost entirely of private
+residences, with the special exception of Bond Street.&nbsp; In
+this quarter are St. James&rsquo;s, Hanover, Berkeley, Grosvenor,
+Cavendish, Bryanstone, Manchester, and Portman Squares&mdash;the
+last four being north of Oxford Street; and in connection with
+these squares are long, quiet streets, lined with houses suited
+for an affluent order of inhabitants.&nbsp; In and north from
+Oxford Street, there are few public buildings deserving
+particular attention; but a visitor may like to know that
+hereabouts are the Soho, Baker Street, and London Crystal Palace
+Bazaars.&nbsp; The once well-known Pantheon is now a wine
+merchant&rsquo;s stores.</p>
+<p>The residences of the nobility and gentry are chiefly, as has
+been said, in the western part of the metropolis.&nbsp; In this
+quarter there have been large additions of handsome streets,
+squares, and terraces within the last thirty years.&nbsp; First
+may be mentioned the district around Belgrave Square, usually
+called <i>Belgravia</i>, which includes the highest class
+houses.&nbsp; North-east from this, near Hyde Park, is the older,
+but still fashionable quarter, comprehending Park Lane and May
+Fair.&nbsp; Still farther north is the modern district, sometimes
+called <i>Tyburnia</i>, being built on the ground adjacent to
+what once was &ldquo;Tyburn,&rdquo; the place of public
+executions.&nbsp; This district, including Hyde Park Square and
+Westbourne Terrace, is a favourite place of residence for city
+merchants and other wealthy persons.&nbsp; Lying north and
+north-east from Tyburnia are an extensive series of suburban rows
+of buildings and detached villas, which are ordinarily spoken of
+under the collective name St. John&rsquo;s Wood: Regent&rsquo;s
+Park forming a kind of rural centre to the group.&nbsp; Standing
+higher and more airy than Belgravia, and being easily accessible
+from Oxford Street, this is one of the most agreeable of the
+suburban districts.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page32"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 32</span>
+<a href="images/p32b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Bunyan&rsquo;s Tomb, Bunhill Fields"
+title=
+"Bunyan&rsquo;s Tomb, Bunhill Fields"
+src="images/p32s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>If, instead of the Strand and Piccadilly route, or the Holborn
+and Oxford Street route, a visitor takes the northernmost main
+route, he will find less to interest him.&nbsp; The New Road, in
+its several parts of City Road, Pentonville Road, Euston Road,
+and Marylebone Road, forms a broad line of communication from the
+city to Paddington, four miles in length.&nbsp; Though very
+important as one of the arteries of the metropolis, it is
+singularly deficient in public buildings.&nbsp; In going from the
+Bank to Paddington, we pass by or near Finsbury Square and
+Circus, the buildings and grounds of the Artillery Company at
+Moorfields, the once famous old Burial-ground at Bunhill Fields,
+St. Luke&rsquo;s Lunatic Asylum, the Chapel in the City Road
+associated with the memory of John Wesley, the old works of the
+New River Company at Pentonville, the Railway stations at
+King&rsquo;s Cross (Great Northern), and St. Pancras
+(Midland),&mdash;the vast span of this station&rsquo;s roof is
+noteworthy,&mdash;and Euston Square (L. and N. Western), several
+stations <a name="page33"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+33</span>of the Metropolitan Underground Railway, St. Pancras and
+Marylebone churches, and the entrance to the beautiful
+Regent&rsquo;s Park.&nbsp; But beyond these little is presented
+to reward the pedestrian.</p>
+<p>It is well for a visitor to bear in mind, however, that all
+the routes we have here sketched have undergone, or are
+undergoing, rapid changes, owing chiefly to the wonderful
+extension of railways.&nbsp; Cannon Street, Finsbury,
+Blackfriars, Snow Hill, Ludgate Hill, Smithfield, Charing Cross,
+Pimlico, &amp;c., have been stripped of hundreds, nay, thousands
+of houses.</p>
+<h2>PALACES AND MANSIONS, ROYAL AND NOBLE.</h2>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p33b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"St. James&rsquo;s Palace and Park.  (Green Park in the
+distance.)"
+title=
+"St. James&rsquo;s Palace and Park.  (Green Park in the
+distance.)"
+src="images/p33s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>These two preliminary glances at the City and the West End
+having (as we will suppose) given the visitor some general idea
+of the Metropolis, we now proceed to describe the chief buildings
+<a name="page34"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 34</span>and places
+of interest, conveniently grouped according to their
+character&mdash;beginning with <i>Palatial Residences</i>.</p>
+<p><b>St. James&rsquo;s Palace</b>.&mdash;This is an inelegant
+brick structure, having its front towards Pall Mall.&nbsp; Henry
+VIII. built it in 1530, on the site of what was once an hospital
+for lepers.&nbsp; The interior consists of several spacious
+lev&eacute;e and drawing rooms, besides other state and domestic
+apartments.&nbsp; This palace is only used occasionally by the
+Queen for lev&eacute;es and drawing-rooms; for which purposes,
+notwithstanding its awkwardness, the building is better adapted
+than Buckingham Palace.&nbsp; The fine bands of the Foot Guards
+play daily at eleven, in the Colour Court, or in an open
+quadrangle on the east side.&nbsp; The Chapel Royal and the
+German Chapel are open on Sundays&mdash;the one with an English
+service, and the other with service in German.</p>
+<p><b>Buckingham Palace</b>.&mdash;This edifice stands at the
+west end of the Mall in St. James&rsquo;s Park, in a situation
+much too low in reference to the adjacent grounds on the
+north.&nbsp; The site was occupied formerly by a brick mansion,
+which was pulled down by order of George IV.&nbsp; The present
+palace (except the front towards the park) was planned and
+erected by Mr. Nash.&nbsp; When completed, after various
+capricious alterations, about 1831&ndash;2, it is said to have
+cost about &pound;700,000.&nbsp; The edifice is of stone, with a
+main centre, and a wing of similar architecture projecting on
+each side, forming originally an open court in front; but the
+palace being too small for the family and retinue of the present
+sovereign, a new frontage has been built, forming an eastern side
+to the open court.&nbsp; There is, however, little harmony of
+style between the old and new portions.&nbsp; The interior
+contains many magnificent apartments, both for state and domestic
+purposes.&nbsp; Among them are the Grand Staircase, the
+Ball-room, the Library, the Sculpture Gallery, the Green
+Drawing-room, the Throne Room, and the Grand Saloon.&nbsp; The
+Queen has a collection of very fine pictures in the various
+rooms, among which is a <i>Rembrandt</i>, for which George IV.
+gave 5000 guineas.&nbsp; In the garden is an elegant
+summer-house, adorned with frescoes by Eastlake, Maclise,
+Landseer, Stanfield, and other distinguished painters.&nbsp; This
+costly palace, however, with all its <a name="page35"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 35</span>grandeur, was so badly planned, that
+in a number of the passages lamps are required to be kept lighted
+even during the day.&nbsp; Strangers are not admitted to
+Buckingham Palace except by special permission of the Lord
+Chamberlain, which is not easily obtained.&nbsp; In the front was
+once the <i>Marble Arch</i>, which formed an entry to the Palace,
+and which cost &pound;70,000; but it was removed to the
+north-east corner of Hyde Park in 1851.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p35b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Buckingham Palace, and West End of St. James&rsquo;s Park.
+(Queen&rsquo;s Garden and Hyde Park Corner in the distance.)"
+title=
+"Buckingham Palace, and West End of St. James&rsquo;s Park.
+(Queen&rsquo;s Garden and Hyde Park Corner in the distance.)"
+src="images/p35s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><b>Marlborough House</b>.&mdash;This building, the residence
+of the Prince and Princess of Wales, is immediately east of St.
+James&rsquo;s Palace, being separated from it only by a
+carriage-road.&nbsp; It was built by Sir Christopher Wren, in
+1709, as a residence for the great Duke <a
+name="page36"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 36</span>of
+Marlborough.&nbsp; The house was bought from the Marlborough
+family by the Crown in 1817, as a residence for the Princess
+Charlotte.&nbsp; It was afterwards occupied in succession by
+Leopold (the late king of the Belgians) and the Dowager Queen
+Adelaide.&nbsp; More recently it was given up to the Government
+School of Design; and the Vernon and Turner pictures were for
+some time kept there.&nbsp; The building underwent various
+alterations preparatory to its occupation by the Prince of
+Wales.</p>
+<p><b>Kensington Palace</b>.&mdash;This is a royal palace, though
+no longer inhabited by royalty, occupying a pleasant situation
+west of Hyde Park.&nbsp; It was built by Lord Chancellor Finch
+late in the 17th century; and soon afterwards sold to William
+III.&nbsp; Additions were made to it from time to time.&nbsp;
+Certain portions of the exterior are regarded as fine specimens
+of brickwork; and the whole, though somewhat heavy in appearance,
+is not without points of interest.&nbsp; During the last century
+Kensington Palace was constantly occupied by members of the royal
+family.&nbsp; Many of them were born there, and many died there
+also.&nbsp; The present Queen was born in the palace in
+1819.&nbsp; The Prince and Princess of Teck reside there at
+present.&nbsp; This, like the other royal palaces, is maintained
+at the expense of the nation; though not now used as a royal
+residence, pensioned or favoured families occupy it.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p37ab.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Lambeth Palace from the River"
+title=
+"Lambeth Palace from the River"
+src="images/p37as.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><b>Lambeth Palace</b>.&mdash;This curious and interesting
+building, situated in a part of the metropolis seldom visited by
+strangers, is the official residence of the archbishops of
+Canterbury.&nbsp; It is on the south bank of the Thames, between
+Westminster and Vauxhall Bridges.&nbsp; The structure has grown
+up by degrees during the six centuries that Lambeth has been the
+archiepiscopal residence; and on that account exhibits great
+diversities of style.&nbsp; Leaving unnoticed the private and
+domestic apartments, the following are the portions of the
+irregular cluster possessing most interest.&nbsp; The
+<i>Chapel</i>, some say, was erected in the year 1196; it is in
+early English, with lancet windows and a crypt; but the roof,
+stained windows, and carved screens, are much more recent.&nbsp;
+The archbishops are always consecrated in this chapel.&nbsp; The
+<i>Lollard&rsquo;s Tower</i>, at the western end of the chapel,
+was named from some Lollards or Wickliffites supposed <a
+name="page37"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 37</span>to have been
+imprisoned there.&nbsp; It is about 400 years old.&nbsp; The
+uppermost room, with strong iron rings in the walls, appears to
+<a name="page38"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 38</span>have been
+the actual place of confinement; there are many names and
+inscriptions cut in the thick oak wainscoting.&nbsp; The
+<i>Hall</i>, about 200 years old, is 93 feet long by 78 feet
+wide; it is noticeable for the oak roof, the bay windows, and the
+arms of several of the archbishops.&nbsp; The <i>Library</i>, 250
+years old, contains about 15,000 volumes and numerous
+manuscripts, many of them rare and curious.&nbsp; The
+<i>Gatehouse</i> is a red brick structure, with stone
+dressings.&nbsp; The <i>Church</i>, near it, is one of the most
+ancient in the neighbourhood of London; it has been recently
+restored in good taste.&nbsp; Simon of Sudbury, Archbishop of
+Canterbury, was murdered here, in 1381, by Wat Tyler&rsquo;s mob,
+who stormed the palace, burned its contents, and destroyed all
+the registers and public papers.&nbsp; Lambeth Palace is not, as
+a rule, shewn to strangers.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p37bb.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Lambeth Palace&mdash;Lollard&rsquo;s Tower"
+title=
+"Lambeth Palace&mdash;Lollard&rsquo;s Tower"
+src="images/p37bs.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><b>Mansions of the Nobility</b>.&mdash;London is not well
+supplied with noble mansions of an attractive character; they
+possess every comfort interiorly, but only a few of them have
+architectural pretensions.&nbsp; <i>Northumberland House</i>,
+lately alluded to, at the Charing Cross extremity of the south
+side of the Strand, looks more like a nobleman&rsquo;s mansion
+than most others in London.&nbsp; It was built, in about 1600, by
+the Earl of Northampton, and came into the hands of the Percies
+in 1642.&nbsp; <i>Stafford House</i> is perhaps the most finely
+situated mansion in the metropolis, occupying the corner of St.
+James&rsquo;s and the Green Parks, and presenting four complete
+fronts, each having its own architectural character.&nbsp; The
+interior, too, is said to be the first of its kind in
+London.&nbsp; The mansion was built by the Duke of York, with
+money lent by the Marquis of Stafford, afterwards Duke of
+Sutherland; but the Stafford family became owners of it, and have
+spent at least a quarter of a million sterling on the house and
+its decorations.&nbsp; <i>Apsley House</i>, at the corner of
+Piccadilly and Hyde Park, is the residence of the Dukes of
+Wellington, and is closely associated with the memory of
+<i>the</i> Duke.&nbsp; The shell of the house, of brick, is old;
+but stone frontages, enlargements, and decorations, were
+afterwards made.&nbsp; The principal room facing Hyde Park, with
+seven windows, is that in which the Great Duke held the
+celebrated Waterloo Banquet, on the 18th of June in every year,
+from 1816 to 1852.&nbsp; <a name="page39"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 39</span>The windows were blocked up with
+bullet-proof iron blinds from 1831 to the day of his death in
+1852; a rabble had shattered them during the Reform excitement,
+and he never afterwards would trust King Mob.&nbsp; 
+<a href="images/p39b.jpg">
+<img class='clearcenter' alt=
+"Apsley House, Hyde Park Corner, Wellington Statue.
+(Knightsbridge and Sloane Street in the distance.)"
+title=
+"Apsley House, Hyde Park Corner, Wellington Statue.
+(Knightsbridge and Sloane Street in the distance.)"
+src="images/p39s.jpg" />
+</a><i>Devonshire House</i>, in Piccadilly, faces the Green Park,
+and has a screen in front.&nbsp; It has no particular
+architectural character; but the wealthy Dukes of Devonshire have
+collected within it valuable pictures, books, gems, and treasures
+of various kinds.&nbsp; <i>Grosvenor House</i>, the residence of
+the Marquis of Westminster, is situated in Upper Grosvenor
+Street, and is celebrated for the magnificent collection of
+pictures known as the <i>Grosvenor Gallery</i>; <a
+name="page40"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 40</span>a set of four
+of these pictures, by Rubens, cost &pound;10,000.&nbsp;
+<i>Bridgewater House</i>, facing the Green Park, is a costly
+modern structure, built by Sir Charles Barry for the Earl of
+Ellesmere, and finished in 1851.&nbsp; It is in the Italian
+Palazzo style.&nbsp; Its chief attraction is the magnificent
+<i>Bridgewater Gallery</i> of pictures, a most rare and choice
+assemblage.&nbsp; This gallery contains no fewer than 320
+pictures, valued at &pound;150,000 many years ago&mdash;though
+they would now, doubtless, sell for a much higher sum. <a
+name="citation40"></a><a href="#footnote40"
+class="citation">[40]</a>&nbsp; <i>Holland House</i>, Kensington,
+is certainly the most picturesque mansion in the metropolis; it
+has an old English look about it, both in the house and its
+grounds.&nbsp; The mansion was built in 1607, and was celebrated
+as being the residence, at one time of Addison, at another of the
+late Lord Holland.&nbsp; The stone gateway on the east of the
+house was designed by Inigo Jones.&nbsp; <i>Chesterfield
+House</i>, in South Audley Street, was built for that Earl of
+Chesterfield whose &ldquo;Advice to his Son&rdquo; has run
+through so many editions; the library and the garden are
+especially noted.&nbsp; <i>Buccleuch House</i>, in Whitehall
+Gardens, is recently finished.&nbsp; <i>Lansdowne House</i>, in
+Berkeley Square, the town residence of the Marquis of Lansdowne,
+contains some fine sculptures and pictures, ancient and
+modern.&nbsp; Scarcely less magnificent, either as buildings or
+in respect of their contents, than the mansions of the nobility,
+are some of those belonging to wealthy commoners&mdash;such as
+Mr. Holford&rsquo;s, a splendid structure in Park Lane; Mr.
+Hope&rsquo;s, in Piccadilly, now the <i>Junior Athen&aelig;um
+Club</i>; and Baron Rothschild&rsquo;s, near Apsley House, lately
+rebuilt.</p>
+<h2>HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT; WESTMINSTER HALL; GOVERNMENT
+OFFICES.</h2>
+<p><b>Houses of Parliament</b>.&mdash;This is the name usually
+given to the <i>New Palace of Westminster</i>, which is not only
+Sir Charles Barry&rsquo;s greatest work, but is in all respects
+one of the most remarkable structures of the age.&nbsp; The
+building, which occupies a site close to <a
+name="page41"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 41</span>the river,
+and close also to the beautiful new Westminster Bridge, was
+constructed in consequence of the burning of the old Houses of
+Parliament in 1834.&nbsp; It is perhaps the finest modern Gothic
+structure in the world&mdash;at least for civil purposes; but is
+unfortunately composed of a stone liable to decay; and, to be
+critical, its ornaments and details generally are on too minute a
+scale for the magnitude of the building.&nbsp; The entire
+structure covers nearly eight acres.&nbsp; 
+<a href="images/p41b.jpg">
+<img class='clearcenter' alt=
+"Houses of Parliament from the River"
+title=
+"Houses of Parliament from the River"
+src="images/p41s.jpg" />
+</a>Certain old plain law courts on the north are intended to be
+removed.&nbsp; The chief public entrance is by Westminster Hall,
+which forms a vestibule to the Houses of Parliament and their
+numerous committee-rooms.&nbsp; The rooms and staircases are
+almost inconceivably numerous; and there are said to be two miles
+of passages and corridors!&nbsp; The river front, raised upon a
+fine terrace of Aberdeen granite, is 900 feet in length, and
+profusely adorned with statues, heraldic shields, and tracery,
+carved in stone.&nbsp; The other fa&ccedil;ades are nearly as
+elaborate, but are not so well seen.&nbsp; It is a gorgeous
+structure, which, so long ago as 1859, had cost over two
+millions.&nbsp; A further cost of &pound;107,000, for frescoes,
+statuary, <a name="page42"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+42</span>&amp;c., &amp;c., had been incurred by the end of March,
+1860; and the constant outgoings for maintenance of the fabric,
+and additions thereto, must every year represent a heavy
+sum.&nbsp; Nevertheless, the two main chambers in which
+Parliament meets are ill adapted for sight and hearing.&nbsp; On
+Saturdays, both Houses can be seen free, by order from the Lord
+Chamberlain, easily obtained at a neighbouring office; and
+certain corridors and chambers are open on other days of the
+week.&nbsp; Admission to the sittings of the two Houses can only
+be obtained by members&rsquo; orders; as the benches appropriated
+in this way are few in number, such admissions are highly prized,
+especially when any important debate is expected.&nbsp; On the
+occasion when the Queen visits the House of Lords, to open or
+prorogue Parliament, visitors are only admitted by special
+arrangements.</p>
+<p>Among the multitude of interesting objects in this stupendous
+structure, the following may be briefly mentioned.&nbsp; The
+<i>House of Peers</i> is 97 feet long, 45 wide, and 45
+high.&nbsp; It is so profusely painted and gilt, and the windows
+are so darkened by deep-tinted stained glass, that the eye can
+with difficulty make out the details.&nbsp; At the southern end
+is the gorgeously gilt and canopied throne; near the centre is
+the woolsack, on which the Lord Chancellor sits; at the end and
+sides are galleries for peeresses, reporters, and strangers; and
+on the floor of the house are the cushioned benches for the
+peers.&nbsp; At either end are three frescoes&mdash;three behind
+the throne, and three over the strangers&rsquo; gallery.&nbsp;
+The three behind the throne are&mdash;&ldquo;Edward III.
+conferring the Order of the Garter on the Black Prince,&rdquo; by
+C. W. Cope; &ldquo;The Baptism of Ethelbert,&rdquo; by Dyce; and
+&ldquo;Henry Prince of Wales committed to Prison for assaulting
+Judge Gascoigne,&rdquo; by C. W. Cope.&nbsp; The three at the
+other end are&mdash;&ldquo;The Spirit of Justice,&rdquo; by D.
+Maclise; &ldquo;The Spirit of Chivalry,&rdquo; by the same; and
+&ldquo;The Spirit of Religion,&rdquo; by J. C. Horsley.&nbsp; In
+niches between the windows and at the ends are eighteen statues
+of Barons who signed Magna Charta.&nbsp; The <i>House of
+Commons</i>, 62 feet long, 45 broad, and 45 high, is much less
+elaborate than the House of Peers.&nbsp; The Speaker&rsquo;s
+Chair is at the north end; and there are galleries along the
+sides and ends.&nbsp; In a gallery behind <a
+name="page43"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 43</span>the Speaker
+the reporters for the newspapers sit.&nbsp; Over them is the
+Ladies&rsquo; Gallery, where the view is ungallantly obstructed
+by a grating.&nbsp; The present ceiling is many feet below the
+original one: the room having been to this extent spoiled because
+the former proportions were bad for hearing.</p>
+<p>Strangers might infer, from the name, that these two chambers,
+the Houses of Peers and of Commons, constitute nearly the whole
+building; but, in truth, they occupy only a small part of the
+area.&nbsp; On the side nearest to Westminster Abbey are <i>St.
+Stephen&rsquo;s Porch</i>, <i>St. Stephen&rsquo;s Corridor</i>,
+the <i>Chancellor&rsquo;s Corridor</i>, the <i>Victoria
+Tower</i>, the <i>Royal Staircase</i>, and numerous courts and
+corridors.&nbsp; At the south end, nearest Millbank, are the
+<i>Guard Room</i>, the <i>Queen&rsquo;s Robing Room</i>, the
+<i>Royal Gallery</i>, the <i>Royal Court</i>, and the
+<i>Prince&rsquo;s Chamber</i>.&nbsp; The river front is mostly
+occupied by <i>Libraries</i> and <i>Committee Rooms</i>.&nbsp;
+The northern or Bridge Street end displays the <i>Clock Tower</i>
+and the <i>Speaker&rsquo;s Residence</i>.&nbsp; In the interior
+of the structure are vast numbers of <i>lobbies</i>,
+<i>corridors</i>, <i>halls</i>, and <i>courts</i>.&nbsp; The
+Saturday tickets, already mentioned, admit visitors to the
+<i>Prince&rsquo;s Chamber</i>, the <i>House of Peers</i>, the
+<i>Peers&rsquo; Lobby</i>, the <i>Peers&rsquo; Corridor</i>, the
+<i>Octagonal Hall</i>, the <i>Commons&rsquo; Corridor</i>, the
+<i>Commons&rsquo; Lobby</i>, the <i>House of Commons</i>, <i>St.
+Stephen&rsquo;s Hall</i>, and <i>St. Stephen&rsquo;s
+Porch</i>.&nbsp; All these places are crowded with rich
+adornments.&nbsp; The <i>Victoria Tower</i>, at the south-west
+angle of the entire structure, is one of the finest in the world:
+it is 75 feet square and 340 feet high; the Queen&rsquo;s state
+entrance is in a noble arch at the base.&nbsp; The <i>Clock
+Tower</i>, at the north end, is 40 feet square and 320 feet high,
+profusely gilt near the top.&nbsp; After two attempts made to
+supply this tower with a bell of 14 tons weight, and after both
+failed, one of the so-called &lsquo;Big Bens,&rsquo; the weight
+of which is about 8 tons, (the official name being &lsquo;St.
+Stephen,&rsquo;) now tells the hour in deep tones.&nbsp; There
+are, likewise, eight smaller bells to chime the quarters.&nbsp;
+The <i>Clock</i> is by far the largest and finest in this
+country.&nbsp; There are four dials on the four faces of the
+tower, each 22&frac12; feet in diameter; the hour-figures are 2
+feet high and 6 feet apart; the minute-marks are 14 inches apart;
+the hands weigh more than 2 cwt. the pair; the minute-hand is 16
+feet long, and the hour-hand <a name="page44"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 44</span>9 feet; the pendulum is 15 feet long,
+and weighs 680 lbs.; the weights hang down a shaft 160 feet
+deep.&nbsp; Besides this fine Clock Tower, there is a <i>Central
+Tower</i>, over the Octagonal Hall, rising to a height of 300
+feet; and there are smaller towers for ventilation and other
+purposes.</p>
+<p>Considering that there are nearly 500 carved stone statues in
+and about this sumptuous building, besides stained-glass windows,
+and oil and fresco paintings in great number, it is obvious that
+a volume would be required to describe them all.&nbsp; In the
+<i>Queen&rsquo;s Robing Room</i> are painted frescoes from the
+story of King Arthur; and in the <i>Peers&rsquo; Robing Room</i>,
+subjects from Biblical history.&nbsp; The <i>Royal Gallery</i> is
+in the course of being filled with frescoes and stained windows
+illustrative of English history.&nbsp; Here, among others,
+specially note the late D. Maclise&rsquo;s stupendous fresco, 45
+feet long by 12 feet high, representing &ldquo;The Meeting of
+Wellington and Blucher after the Battle of Waterloo;&rdquo; and
+the companion fresco, &ldquo;The Death of Nelson.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><b>Westminster Hall</b>.&mdash;Although now made, in a most
+ingenious manner, to form part of the sumptuous edifice just
+described, <i>Westminster Hall</i> is really a distinct
+building.&nbsp; It was the old hall of the original palace of
+Westminster, built in the time of William Rufus, but partly
+re-constructed in 1398.&nbsp; The carved timber roof is regarded
+as one of the finest in England.&nbsp; The hall is 290 feet long,
+68 wide, and 110 high.&nbsp; There are very few buildings in the
+world so large as this unsupported by pillars.&nbsp; The southern
+end, both within and without, has been admirably brought into
+harmony with the general architecture of the Palace of
+Parliament.&nbsp; Doors on the east side lead to the House of
+Commons; doors on the west lead to the <i>Courts of Chancery</i>,
+<i>Queen&rsquo;s Bench</i>, <i>Common Pleas</i>,
+<i>Exchequer</i>, <i>Probate</i>, <i>and Divorce</i>,
+&amp;c.&nbsp; No building in England is richer in associations
+with events relating to kings, queens, and princes, than
+Westminster Hall.&nbsp; <i>St. Stephen&rsquo;s Crypt</i>, lately
+restored with great splendour, is entered from the south end of
+the Hall.</p>
+<p><b>Somerset House</b>, in the Strand, was built in 1549 by the
+Protector Somerset; and, on his attainder and execution, fell to
+the Crown.&nbsp; <a name="page45"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+45</span>Old Somerset House was pulled down in 1775, and the
+present building erected in 1780, after the designs of Sir Wm.
+Chambers.&nbsp; The rear of the building faces the Thames, its
+river frontage being 600 feet long, and an excellent specimen of
+Palladian architecture.&nbsp; In Somerset House are several
+Government offices&mdash;among the rest, a branch of the
+Admiralty, the Inland Revenue, and the Registrar-General&rsquo;s
+department.&nbsp; More than 900 clerks are employed in the
+various offices.&nbsp; The rooms in which Newspaper Stamps are
+produced by ingenious processes, and those in which the
+Registrar-General keeps his voluminous returns of births,
+marriages, and deaths, are full of interest; but they are not
+accessible for mere curiosity.&nbsp; The learned Societies are
+removed to Burlington House, Piccadilly.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p45b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Somerset House, King&rsquo;s College, Waterloo Bridge, &amp;c.
+(St. Clement&rsquo;s and St. Mary&rsquo;s Churches in the
+distance.)"
+title=
+"Somerset House, King&rsquo;s College, Waterloo Bridge, &amp;c.
+(St. Clement&rsquo;s and St. Mary&rsquo;s Churches in the
+distance.)"
+src="images/p45s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><b>Government Offices</b>.&mdash;A few words will suffice for
+the other <a name="page46"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+46</span>West-End Government offices.&nbsp; The <i>Admiralty</i>,
+in Whitehall, is the head-quarters of the Naval Department.&nbsp;
+The front of the building was constructed about 1726; and the
+screen, by the brothers Adam, about half-a-century later.&nbsp;
+Most of the heads of the Admiralty have official residences
+connected with the building.&nbsp; The <i>Horse Guards</i>, a
+little farther down Whitehall, is the head-quarters of the
+commander-in-chief.&nbsp; It was built about 1753, and has an
+arched entrance leading into St. James&rsquo;s Park.&nbsp; 
+<a href="images/p46b.jpg">
+<img class='clearcenter' alt=
+"Whitehall, Horse Guards, Government Offices, &amp;c.
+(Westminster Abbey and Houses of Parliament in the distance.)"
+title=
+"Whitehall, Horse Guards, Government Offices, &amp;c.
+(Westminster Abbey and Houses of Parliament in the distance.)"
+src="images/p46s.jpg" />
+</a>&nbsp; The two cavalry sentries, belonging either to the Life
+Guards or to the Oxford Blues, always attract the notice of
+country visitors, to whom such showy horsemen are a rarity.&nbsp;
+The <i>Treasury</i>, the <i>Office of the </i><a
+name="page47"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 47</span><i>Chancellor
+of the Exchequer</i>, the <i>Home Office</i>, the
+<i>Privy-council Office</i>, and the <i>Board of Trade</i>,
+together occupy the handsome range of buildings at the corner of
+Whitehall and Downing Street.&nbsp; The interior of this building
+is in great part old; after many alterations and additions, the
+present front, in the Italian Palazzo style, was built by Sir
+Charles Barry in 1847.&nbsp; The <i>Foreign Office</i>, the
+<i>India Office</i>, and the <i>Colonial Office</i>, occupy the
+handsome new buildings southward of Downing Street.&nbsp; The
+<i>War Office</i> in Pall Mall is a makeshift arrangement: it
+occupies the old quarters of the Ordnance Office, and some
+private houses converted to public use.&nbsp; After many
+discussions as to architectural designs, &amp;c., the so-called
+&ldquo;Battle of the Styles&rdquo; ended in a compromise: the
+Gothic architect (Mr. G. G. Scott, R.A.) was employed; but an
+Italian design was adopted for the new Foreign and India
+Offices.</p>
+<h2>ST. PAUL&rsquo;S; WESTMINSTER ABBEY; CHURCHES; CHAPELS;
+CEMETERIES.</h2>
+<p><b>St. Paul&rsquo;s Cathedral</b>.&mdash;This is the most
+prominent object in the metropolis.&nbsp; The lofty dome, seen
+for miles around, stands in the centre of an enclosed churchyard
+of limited dimensions, at the head of Ludgate Hill.&nbsp; A
+church is said to have existed here four hundred years before the
+Norman conquest; and, under various shapes and extensions, it
+remained till destroyed by the Great Fire of London in
+1666.&nbsp; An entirely new edifice was then erected in its
+stead, the important work being committed to Sir Christopher
+Wren.&nbsp; It was opened for divine service in 1697, and
+finished in 1710&mdash;one architect and one master-mason having
+been engaged on it for 35 years. <a name="citation47a"></a><a
+href="#footnote47a" class="citation">[47a]</a>&nbsp; The
+cathedral is built in the form of a cross, 514 feet in length by
+286 in breadth. <a name="citation47b"></a><a href="#footnote47b"
+class="citation">[47b]</a>&nbsp; Outwardly, the <a
+name="page48"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 48</span>walls, which
+have a dark sooty appearance, except where bleached by the
+weather, exhibit a double range of windows.&nbsp; There are three
+porticos at as many entrances on the north, west, and
+south.&nbsp; That on the west is the principal, with twelve lofty
+Corinthian pillars below, and a second order carrying the
+pediment above; the angles are crowned with handsome bell-towers,
+much larger than ordinary church steeples, and 222 feet
+high.&nbsp; 
+<a href="images/p48b.jpg">
+<img class='clearcenter' alt=
+"St. Paul&rsquo;s Cathedral and Churchyard, from Ludgate Hill"
+title=
+"St. Paul&rsquo;s Cathedral and Churchyard, from Ludgate Hill"
+src="images/p48s.jpg" />
+</a>&nbsp; But this entrance, <a name="page49"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 49</span>which fronts Ludgate Hill, is not
+much used; the common entrance is by the north portico and flight
+of steps.&nbsp; On entering, the impression produced by the
+vastness of the internal space is great, although the walls want
+something in tone and relief.&nbsp; (Subscriptions are being
+gradually raised for richly adorning the interior.)&nbsp; There
+are two domes, an outer and an inner, having a brick cone between
+them.&nbsp; The inner dome has six paintings relating to events
+in the life of St. Paul: they were painted by Sir James
+Thornhill, and have recently been renovated.&nbsp; In the choir
+is much beautiful carving, by Grinling Gibbons.&nbsp; In various
+parts of the cathedral are statues and monuments of John Howard,
+Dr. Johnson, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Bishop Heber, Nelson,
+Cornwallis, Abercrombie, Sir John Moore, Lord Heathfield, Howe,
+Rodney, <a name="page50"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+50</span>Collingwood, St. Vincent, Picton, Ponsonby, and
+others.&nbsp; In the <i>Crypt</i> beneath are the tombs of
+Wellington, Nelson, Wren, Collingwood, Picton, Reynolds,
+Lawrence, Opie, West, Fuseli, Turner, Rennie, and other eminent
+men.&nbsp; Service is performed on Sundays at 10.30 <span
+class="smcap">a.m.</span> and 3.15 <span
+class="smcap">p.m.</span>; on week-days at 8.0, 10.0, and
+4.0.&nbsp; A screen, on which the organ stood, has lately been
+removed, throwing open the beautiful choir to view from the
+nave.&nbsp; The organ has been placed on the north side of the
+choir.&nbsp; Several times in the year service is performed under
+the dome on Sunday evenings by gaslight; and an additional organ
+for this service has been set up in the south transept.&nbsp; The
+appearance of the dome at these times, with a soft light shed
+around it, is extremely beautiful; and the congregation generally
+assembled is enormous.&nbsp; If the stranger pleases to pay the
+required fees, he may mount, by means of stairs and ladders, to
+the top of the dome; and he will be amply repaid by the extensive
+view from the balcony or gallery, which comprehends the whole of
+London, with the country beyond its outskirts, and the Thames
+rolling placidly in its winding course between dense masses of
+houses.&nbsp; The <i>Whispering Gallery</i>, at the bottom of the
+inner dome, renders audible the slightest whisper from side to
+side.&nbsp; The <i>Library</i> contains chiefly ecclesiastical
+works for the use of the Chapter.&nbsp; The two <i>Golden
+Galleries</i> are at the top of the inner and outer domes.&nbsp;
+The <i>Ball</i> and <i>Cross</i>, reached by more than 600 steps,
+are at the summit of the building; the ball, about 6 feet in
+diameter, is reached with some difficulty.&nbsp; The
+<i>Clock-work</i> and <i>Great Bell</i> always attract the notice
+of visitors.&nbsp; The pendulum measures 14 feet in length, while
+the mass at its extremity is one hundredweight.&nbsp; The great
+bell, which is only tolled when a member of the royal family
+dies, is placed in the southern turret above the western portico;
+it weighs 4&frac12; tons, and is 10 feet in diameter.&nbsp; The
+fine deep tones of this mighty bell, on which the hours are
+struck, sweep solemnly, in a quiet evening, across the
+metropolis, and are at times heard distinctly by families at
+their firesides far out in the suburbs.&nbsp; Altogether, St.
+Paul&rsquo;s is a magnificent structure; and though it cost a
+million and a-half of money in the erection&mdash;a great sum in
+the seventeenth century&mdash;<a name="page51"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 51</span>the amount was well spent on so
+worthy an object.&nbsp; St. Paul&rsquo;s is open, during the
+greater part of the day, free to the public, but no place is
+exhibited during divine service.&mdash;Fee for admission to the
+whispering gallery and the two outer galleries, 6d.; the ball,
+1s. 6d.; the clock, great bell, library, and geometrical
+staircase, 6d.; and the crypt, 6d.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p49b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Tomb of Nelson&mdash;crypt"
+title=
+"Tomb of Nelson&mdash;crypt"
+src="images/p49s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><b>Westminster Abbey</b>.&mdash;Nearly opposite the Houses of
+Parliament stands Westminster Abbey, open to inspection on the
+north, west, and east, but much crowded upon by private dwellings
+on the south.&nbsp; In very early times this spot of ground was a
+small insular tract, surrounded by the waters of the Thames, and
+called Thorney Island.&nbsp; Here a monastic institution was
+founded on the introduction of Christianity into Britain.&nbsp;
+Under Edward the Confessor an abbey was raised upon the site of
+the ruined monastic building.&nbsp; The ground-plan, as usual,
+bore the form of the cross.&nbsp; Rights and endowments were
+granted; and the edifice assumed a great degree of architectural
+grandeur.&nbsp; It had become the place for the inauguration of
+the English monarchs; and William the Conqueror was crowned here
+with great pomp in 1066.&nbsp; Henry III. and Edward I. enlarged
+the abbey; and the building continued nearly in the state in
+which they left it, until Henry VII. added a chapel, built in the
+perpendicular style, on which the greatest skill of the architect
+and the sculptor was displayed; exhibiting one of the most
+splendid structures of the age, and so highly esteemed, that it
+was enjoined that the remains of royalty alone should be interred
+within its walls.&nbsp; During the reign of Henry VIII., the
+abbey was considerably defaced; but on the surrender of its
+revenues, Henry raised Westminster to the dignity of a city, and
+its abbey was constituted a cathedral.&nbsp; It was, however,
+afterwards re-united to the see of London, in 1550.&nbsp; (An
+archbishopric of Westminster, created by the Pope a few years
+ago, is connected only with Roman Catholic matters, and is not
+recognised by the English law.)&nbsp; Westminster Abbey, during
+the reign of William and Mary, was thoroughly repaired, and the
+towers added at the western entrance, under the direction of Sir
+Christopher Wren.&nbsp; These towers, however, though good in
+outline and general mass, are not in harmony <a
+name="page52"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 52</span>with the rest
+of the building.&nbsp; The length of the abbey is 416 feet;
+breadth at the transept, 203 feet; and at the nave, 102 feet;
+height of the west towers, 225 feet.&nbsp; The exterior
+measurement, including Henry VII.&rsquo;s Chapel, is 530
+feet.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p52b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Westminster Abbey, and St. Margaret&rsquo;s Church"
+title=
+"Westminster Abbey, and St. Margaret&rsquo;s Church"
+src="images/p52s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>On entering at the great western door between the towers, the
+magnificence of the abbey soon becomes apparent.&nbsp; The
+interior displays grand masses of marble columns separating the
+nave from the side aisles.&nbsp; A screen, surmounted by a noble
+organ, divides the nave from the choir; while beyond the eye
+soars, amid graceful columns, tracery, and decorated windows, to
+the summit of the eastern arch that overlooks the adjacent
+chapels.&nbsp; The walls on both sides display a great profusion
+of sepulchral monuments, among which are some finely executed
+pieces of sculpture, and touching memorials of those whose
+exploits or exertions have deserved the notice of posterity; but
+too many, unfortunately, are in very bad taste.&nbsp; Above the
+line of tombs are chambers and galleries, once occupied by
+ecclesiastics; solemn and dreary in their <a
+name="page53"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 53</span>antiquity,
+though relieved by occasional sunbeams glancing across the misty
+height of the nave.&nbsp; The northern window is richly
+ornamented with stained glass.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p53b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Westminster Abbey&mdash;Chapel of Henry VII."
+title=
+"Westminster Abbey&mdash;Chapel of Henry VII."
+src="images/p53s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>The Chapel of Edward the Confessor is at the eastern end of
+the choir, and contains the shrine of St. Edward: that it was an
+exquisite piece of workmanship, is evident even in its
+decay.&nbsp; Here also is the coronation-chair, under which is
+placed the celebrated stone brought from Scone, in Scotland, by
+Edward I. in 1297.&nbsp; The Chapel of Henry VII. is also at the
+eastern end; and among the ashes of many royal personages
+interred here are those of Mary and Elizabeth.&nbsp; The ascent
+to this splendid work of Gothic art is by <a
+name="page54"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 54</span>steps of
+black marble.&nbsp; The entrance gates display workmanship of
+extraordinary richness in brass.&nbsp; The effect produced on
+entering this chapel is striking: the roof is wrought in stone
+into an astonishing variety of figures and devices; the stalls
+are of oak, having the deep tone of age, with Gothic canopies,
+all elaborately carved.&nbsp; Here, before the remodelling of the
+order, used to be installed the knights of the Order of the
+Bath.&nbsp; In their stalls are placed brass plates of their
+armorial insignia, and above are suspended their banners, swords,
+and helmets; beneath the stalls are seats for the esquires.&nbsp;
+The pavement is composed of black and white marble; beneath which
+is the royal vault.&nbsp; The magnificent tomb of Henry VII. and
+his queen stands in the body of this chapel, in a curious chantry
+of cast brass, admirably executed, and interspersed with
+effigies, armorial bearings, and devices relating to the union of
+the red and white roses.</p>
+<p>The number of statues and monuments in Westminster Abbey is
+very great.&nbsp; Most of them are contained in side-chapels, of
+which there are several: viz., St. Benedict&rsquo;s, St.
+Edmund&rsquo;s, St. Nicholas&rsquo;s, St. Paul&rsquo;s, St.
+Erasmus&rsquo;s, John the Baptist&rsquo;s, and Bishop
+Islip&rsquo;s; besides Henry VII.&rsquo;s and Edward the
+Confessor&rsquo;s Chapels, already mentioned.&nbsp; These Chapels
+contain about ninety monuments and shrines, some of great
+beauty.&nbsp; The Choir, the Transept, and the Nave, also contain
+a large amount of sculpture&mdash;many specimens in wretched
+taste, by the side of some of the first works of Flaxman,
+Chantrey, Roubiliac, Nollekins, Bacon, Westmacott, Gibson,
+Behnes, and others.&nbsp; <i>Poets&rsquo; Corner</i>, occupying
+about half of the south transept, is a famous place for the busts
+and monuments of eminent men&mdash;including Chaucer, Spencer,
+Shakespeare, Drayton, Ben Jonson, Milton, Butler, Davenant,
+Cowley, Dryden, Prior, Rowe, Gay, Addison, Thomson, Goldsmith,
+Gray, Mason, Sheridan, Southey, Campbell, &amp;c.&nbsp; Lord
+Macaulay and Lord Palmerston were recently buried in the
+Abbey&mdash;the one in January, 1860; the other in October,
+1865.&nbsp; William Makepeace Thackeray does not lie there, but
+at Kensal Green, though his bust is placed next to the statue of
+Joseph Addison.&nbsp; On the 14th June, 1870, Charles Dickens was
+interred there.&nbsp; His grave is situated at the foot of <a
+name="page55"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 55</span>the coffin of
+Handel, and at the head of the coffin of R. B. Sheridan, and
+between the coffins of Lord Macaulay and Cumberland the
+dramatist.&nbsp; Near to England&rsquo;s great humorist, towards
+his feet, lie Dr. Johnson and Garrick, while near them lies
+Thomas Campbell.&nbsp; Shakespeare&rsquo;s monument is not far
+from the foot of the grave.&nbsp; Goldsmith&rsquo;s is on the
+left.&nbsp; A monumental brass, to the memory of Robert
+Stephenson, has recently been inlaid in the floor of the
+nave.&nbsp; The <i>Cloisters</i> and the <i>Chapter House</i>
+contain some curious old effigies.</p>
+<p>Westminster Abbey is a collegiate church, with a dean and
+chapter, who possess a considerable authority over the adjoining
+district, and a revenue of about &pound;30,000 per annum.&nbsp;
+The abbey may be considered as sub-divided into chapels; but in
+the present day divine service (at 7.45,10, and 3) is performed
+only in a large enclosed space near the eastern extremity of the
+building&mdash;except on Sunday evenings during a portion of the
+year, when service is performed in the nave, in a similar way to
+the Sunday evening services under the dome of St.
+Paul&rsquo;s.&nbsp; This evening service, at 7 o&rsquo;clock, is
+very striking in effect.&nbsp; There are usually a considerable
+number of strangers present at the services, particularly at that
+on Sunday evenings.&nbsp; The entrance chiefly used is that at
+Poets&rsquo; Corner, nearly opposite the royal entrance to the
+Houses of Parliament; but on Sunday evenings the great western
+entrance is used.&nbsp; There is admittance every week-day free
+to the chief parts of the building, and to other parts on payment
+of a fee of 6d.</p>
+<p><b>Parish and District Churches</b>.&mdash;When we consider
+that the metropolis contains nearly 1000 churches and chapels, it
+may well be conceived that only a few of them can be noticed
+here.&nbsp; In addition to St. Paul&rsquo;s and the Abbey, the
+following are worth the notice of strangers.&nbsp; <i>St.
+Michael&rsquo;s</i>, Cornhill, has lately been restored and
+re-decorated in an elaborate manner by Mr. Gilbert Scott.&nbsp;
+<i>St. Bartholomew&rsquo;s</i>, Smithfield, which has been lately
+restored, was once the choir and transepts of a priory church; it
+is interesting, not only for some of its monuments, but for the
+varieties of Norman and Gothic styles which it exhibits.&nbsp;
+<i>St. Stephen&rsquo;s</i>, Walbrook, close to the Mansion House,
+is especially worthy of attention; as the <a
+name="page56"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 56</span>interior is
+considered to be one of Wren&rsquo;s happiest conceptions.&nbsp;
+<i>Bow Church</i>, or the Church of St. Mary-le-Bow, occupies a
+conspicuous position on the south side of Cheapside, and has a
+spire of great elegance, designed by Sir Christopher Wren.&nbsp;
+The clock projects over the street from the lower part of the
+tower.&nbsp; Standing as this church does, in the centre of the
+city, those who are born within the sound of its bells are
+jocularly called <i>Cockneys</i>, a name equivalent to genuine
+citizens.&nbsp; 
+<a href="images/p56b.jpg">
+<img class='clearcenter' alt=
+"St. Stephen&rsquo;s, Walbrook"
+title=
+"St. Stephen&rsquo;s, Walbrook"
+src="images/p56s.jpg" />
+</a>The consecration of the Bishop of London takes place at Bow
+Church.&nbsp; <i>St. Bride&rsquo;s</i>, Fleet Street, is adorned
+with one of the most beautiful of Sir Christopher Wren&rsquo;s
+steeples.&nbsp; <i>The Temple Church</i> is described in the
+section relating to the Temple and other Inns of Court.&nbsp;
+<i>St. Saviour&rsquo;s</i> is by far the most important parish
+church on the Surrey side of the water.&nbsp; It is <a
+name="page57"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 57</span>near the foot
+of London Bridge, on the west side of High Street,
+Southwark.&nbsp; It originally belonged to the Priory of St. Mary
+Overy, but was made a parish church in 1540.&nbsp; The Choir and
+the Lady Chapel are parts of the original structure, and are
+excellent examples of the early English style; they have been
+restored in the present century.&nbsp; Many other parts of the
+building deserve notice.&nbsp; The <i>Savoy Church</i>, between
+the Strand and the Thames, near Waterloo Bridge, was once the
+Chapel of the Hospital of St. John the Baptist; it was destroyed
+by fire in 1864, and re-built in 1866.&nbsp; <i>St.
+Paul&rsquo;s</i>, Covent Garden, built by Inigo Jones, is
+noticeable for its massive Doric portico.&nbsp; <i>St.
+James&rsquo;s</i>, Piccadilly, one of the least sightly of brick
+churches outside, has an interior which exhibits Wren&rsquo;s
+skill in a striking degree.&nbsp; <i>St.
+Martin&rsquo;s-in-the-Fields</i>, at the north-east corner of
+Trafalgar Square, has always been admired for its elegant spire
+and portico, constructed by Gibbs.&nbsp; <i>St.
+George&rsquo;s</i>, Hanover Square, is chiefly celebrated for the
+fashionable marriages that take place there; the exterior, is,
+however, picturesque.&nbsp; <i>Whitehall Chapel</i> was
+originally intended as part of a royal residence.&nbsp; It is, in
+fact, the Banqueting House of the palace of Whitehall, the only
+remaining portion of what was once an extensive pile.&nbsp; The
+former brick structure is entirely gone.&nbsp; The present
+edifice, built by Inigo Jones in the time of James I., is
+considered to be one of the finest specimens of Italian
+architecture in England.&nbsp; Charles I. was executed on a
+scaffold erected in front of one of the windows.&nbsp; The
+interior of Whitehall is about 112 feet long, 56 wide, and 56
+high, forming exactly a double cube; the ceiling is painted by
+Rubens, with mythological designs in honour of James I.&nbsp; The
+building, being appropriated to no other use, was converted into
+a chapel in the time of George I., and was modernized in the
+interior, about 30 years ago, by Sir Robert Smirke.&nbsp; <i>Old
+St. Pancras Church</i>, in Pancras Road, a small but venerable
+structure, has in recent years been altered and adapted as a
+District Church.&nbsp; Its churchyard was remarkable for the
+number of artists and other eminent persons interred in it; at
+one time it was the great metropolitan burial-place for Roman
+Catholics, and consequently an unusual number of foreigners of
+celebrity, French <i>emigr&eacute;s</i> <a
+name="page58"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 58</span>during the
+Reign of Terror, &amp;c., were buried there.&nbsp; Recently,
+however, the old graveyard has been sadly cut about by the
+pickaxes and shovels of railway excavators, engaged by the
+Midland Railway, which passes thereby.</p>
+<p>It is worthy of note, that Sir Christopher Wren built the
+large number of <i>fifty-three</i> churches in London after the
+Great Fire.&nbsp; Nearly all of them are still standing.&nbsp;
+Among the most noted are St. Paul&rsquo;s; Bow Church; St.
+Stephen&rsquo;s, Walbrook; St. Bride&rsquo;s; St. Andrew&rsquo;s,
+Holborn; St. Sepulchre&rsquo;s; St. Antholin&rsquo;s, Watling
+Street; Christ Church, Newgate; St. Clement Danes; St.
+Dunstan&rsquo;s-in-the-East; St. James&rsquo;s, Piccadilly; St.
+Lawrence, Jewry; St. Magnus, London Bridge; St. Martin&rsquo;s,
+Ludgate; and St. Mary, Aldermanbury.</p>
+<p>Among churches and chapels of the Establishment, of more
+recent date, the following are worth looking at:&mdash;<i>New St.
+Pancras</i>, near the Euston Railway Station, is the most notable
+example in London of an imitative Greek temple; it was built by
+Messrs. Inwood, in 1822, and cost nearly &pound;80,000.&nbsp;
+<i>St. Marylebone</i>, in the Marylebone Road, built by Mr.
+Hardwick in 1817, cost &pound;60,000; the interior is heavy in
+appearance, having two tiers of galleries; in few London
+churches, however, is divine service, according to the
+established ritual, performed on a more impressive scale.&nbsp;
+<i>St. Stephen&rsquo;s</i>, Westminster, in Rochester Row, was
+built wholly at the expense of Miss Burdett Coutts, and is a fine
+example of revived Gothic; the choral service on Sundays is grand
+and complete.&nbsp; <i>St. Paul&rsquo;s</i>, at Knightsbridge,
+and <i>St. Barnabas</i>, at Pimlico, especially the latter, are
+noticeable for the medi&aelig;val revivals, in arrangements and
+in service, which belong to what is called the high-church
+party.&nbsp; <i>All Saints&rsquo; Church</i>, Margaret Street,
+is, perhaps, the most sumptuous of modern London churches.&nbsp;
+Although small, it cost &pound;60,000.&nbsp; Mr. Butterfield was
+the architect.&nbsp; The exterior is of red and black brick, very
+medi&aelig;val in appearance.&nbsp; The interior is ornate, with
+polished granite piers, alabaster capitals, coloured marble
+decorations, stained-glass windows, and frescoes by Dyce.&nbsp;
+<i>St. James the Less</i>, in Garden Street, Westminster, is a
+truly remarkable specimen of coloured-brick <a
+name="page59"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 59</span>architecture,
+both within and without; Mr. Street was the architect; and the
+cost was defrayed by the daughters of the late Dr. Monk, Bishop
+of Gloucester.&nbsp; A very noteworthy and costly brick church
+has been constructed in Baldwin&rsquo;s Gardens, Gray&rsquo;s Inn
+Lane, from the designs of Mr. Butterfield, and at the sole cost
+of Mr. J. G. Hubbard.&nbsp; It is dedicated to <i>St.
+Alban</i>.&nbsp; The Rev. A. Mackonochie, whose extreme
+ritualistic views have several times brought his name prominently
+before the public, was the incumbent.</p>
+<p><b>Catholic, Dissenting, and Jewish Places of
+Worship</b>.&mdash;It is almost impossible to give an exact
+enumeration of the places of worship in London, seeing that so
+many new ones are in the course of building.&nbsp; But the
+following figures, based on information supplied by the London
+Post-Office Directory, and otherwise, will, it is hoped, be found
+to convey a very fair approximate notion on the subject.&nbsp; In
+that Directory, then, there will be found the names of about 100
+city parishes.&nbsp; But of these, some 40 have, of late years,
+been united to other parishes.&nbsp; Thus, All Hallow&rsquo;s,
+Honey Lane, is united with St. Mary-le-Bow; St. Mary Magdalen, in
+Milk Street, is united with St. Lawrence, Jewry; and so
+forth.&nbsp; Many of the parishes so united have their own
+churches now closed, or in course of demolition, and worship is
+provided for them at the churches of the particular parishes into
+which they have been merged.&nbsp; Without counting the city
+proper, there are, in London, 50 parish churches, and at least
+300 district churches and chapels belonging to the Church of
+England.&nbsp; The Roman Catholics have 41 churches and chapels,
+without reckoning sundry religious houses.&nbsp; The Wesleyans
+have 152.&nbsp; The recognised Dissenters from the Wesleyan body
+have 4; the Baptists, 109; the Independents, 109; the United
+Methodist Free Church, 27; Primitive Methodists, 16; the
+Unitarians, 8; Methodist New Connexion, 8; the Quakers, 5; the
+Presbyterians (English) 15; the Church of Scotland, 5; the
+Calvinists have 2; the Calvinistic Methodists, 3; the Welsh
+Calvinistic Methodists, 4.&nbsp; The Jews have 12 Synagogues;
+there are 3 French Protestant churches; 9 German (Reformed)
+churches and chapels; Swiss Protestant, 1; Swedenborgians, 2;
+Plymouth <a name="page60"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+60</span>Brethren, 3; Catholic Apostolic (not Roman) 6; 1
+Swedish, and 1 Greek church; 1 Russian chapel, and 3
+meeting-houses of Free Christians; 1 Moravian; and some 40 other
+places for public worship, belonging to miscellaneous
+denominations.&nbsp; Of Roman Catholic churches, the chief is
+<i>St. George&rsquo;s Cathedral</i>, near Bethlehem
+Hospital&mdash;a very large, but heavy Gothic structure; the
+tower has never been finished for want of funds.&nbsp; 
+<a href="images/p60b.jpg">
+<img class='clearcenter' alt=
+"The Tabernacle"
+title=
+"The Tabernacle"
+src="images/p60s.jpg" />
+</a>The service here is more complete than at any other Roman
+Catholic structure in England.&nbsp; <i>St. Mary&rsquo;s</i>,
+near Moorfields; the <i>Spanish Chapel</i>, near Manchester
+Square; and the <i>Italian Church</i>, in Hatton Wall&mdash;are
+three other Roman Catholic chapels that attract many strangers by
+their excellent music.&nbsp; The <i>Catholic and Apostolic
+Church</i>, in Gordon Square, may be regarded as the cathedral of
+the so-called Irvingites (a designation, however, which they
+repudiate); it is one of the best modern examples of early
+English, but there are no funds available <a
+name="page61"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 61</span>for finishing
+the tower.&nbsp; The minister of the National Scotch Church, in
+Crown Court, Drury Lane, is the celebrated Rev. J. Cumming, D.D.,
+whose preaching attracts large congregations.&nbsp; Of the
+dissenting chapels in London, by far the most remarkable is Mr.
+Spurgeon&rsquo;s <i>Tabernacle</i>, built at a cost of about
+&pound;30,000, at Newington, near the Elephant and Castle;
+everything, within and without, has been made subservient to the
+accommodating of 4000 or 5000 persons, all of whom can hear, and
+nearly all see, the celebrated preacher.&nbsp; The principal
+<i>Jews&rsquo; Synagogue</i> is in Great St. Helen&rsquo;s, near
+Leadenhall Street&mdash;remarkable rather for the ceremonies, at
+certain seasons of the year, than for anything in the building
+itself.&nbsp; A synagogue exists for the Jews residing in the
+western half of the metropolis, in Great Portland Street.</p>
+<p><b>Cemeteries</b>.&mdash;Intramural burial is now forbidden in
+London.&nbsp; The chief cemeteries are those at Highgate,
+Finchley, Abney Park, Mile-End, Kensal Green, Bethnal Green,
+Ilford, Brompton, Norwood, Nunhead, and Camberwell.&nbsp; There
+is a very fine view of London, on a clear day, from the
+first-named.&nbsp; Kensal Green contains the graves of many
+distinguished persons.&nbsp; Princess Sophia was buried at the
+last-named cemetery; and a sedulous visitor would discover the
+tombs and graves of Sydney Smith, the daughters and a grandchild
+of Sir Walter Scott, Allan Cunningham, John Murray, Thomas Hood,
+Liston, Loudon, Callcott, Birkbeck, Brunel, Thackeray, and other
+persons of note.&nbsp; Cardinal Wiseman lies interred in the
+Catholic Cemetery adjacent to Kensal Green.&nbsp; The <i>Great
+Northern Cemetery</i>, near Colney Hatch, lately opened, has
+special railway facilities from the King&rsquo;s Cross
+Station.&nbsp; The <i>Woking Necropolis</i>, in Surrey, is too
+far distant to be included within London; nevertheless, the
+admirable railway arrangements, from a station of the
+South-Western, in the Westminster Road, make it, in effect, one
+of the metropolitan cemeteries.&nbsp; If the old burial-grounds
+are no longer attended to for funerals, many of them are deeply
+interesting for their memorials of the past.&nbsp; <i>Old St.
+Pancras Churchyard</i> has already been named; and another worthy
+of attention is <i>Bunhill Fields</i> burying-ground.&nbsp; It
+has been called the &lsquo;Campo Santo&rsquo; of Dissenters, for
+<a name="page62"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 62</span>there lie
+the remains of Daniel Defoe, John Bunyan, John Owen, George Fox,
+(who founded the sect of the Quakers about 1646,) Dr. Isaac
+Watts, and many a stout defender of nonconformity.</p>
+<h2>BRITISH AND SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUMS; SCIENTIFIC
+ESTABLISHMENTS.</h2>
+<p><b>British Museum</b>.&mdash;This is a great national
+establishment, containing a vast and constantly-increasing
+collection of books, maps, drawings, prints, sculptures,
+antiquities, and natural curiosities.&nbsp; It occupies a most
+extensive suite of buildings in Great Russell Street, Bloomsbury,
+commenced in 1823, and not even now finished.&nbsp; The sum spent
+on them is little less than &pound;1,000,000.&nbsp; Sir Richard
+Smirke was the architect.&nbsp; The principal, or south front,
+370 feet long, presents a range of 44 columns, the centre being a
+majestic portico, with sculptures in the pediment.&nbsp; Since
+its commencement, in 1755, the collection has been prodigiously
+increased by gifts, bequests, and purchases; and now it is,
+perhaps, the largest of the kind in the world.&nbsp; The library
+contains more than <i>eight hundred thousand</i> volumes, and is
+increasing enormously in extent every year.&nbsp; The
+Reading-Room is open only to persons who proceed thither for
+study, or for consulting authorities.&nbsp; A reading order is
+readily procured on written application, enclosing the
+recommendation of two respectable householders, to &ldquo;the
+Principal Librarian.&rdquo;&nbsp; It is open nearly 300 days in
+the year, and for an average of eight hours each day.&nbsp; No
+general inspection of this room by strangers is allowed, except
+by a written order from the secretary, which can, however,
+readily be obtained on three days in the week.&nbsp; The porters
+in the hall will direct to the secretary&rsquo;s office; and
+strangers must be careful to observe the conditions on which the
+order is given.&nbsp; The present reading-room, opened in 1857,
+and built at a cost of &pound;150,000, is one of the finest
+apartments in the world; it is circular, 140 feet in diameter,
+and open to a dome-roof 106 feet high, supported without
+pillars.&nbsp; This beautiful room, and the fireproof galleries
+for books which surround it, were planned by Mr. Panizzi, the
+late chief librarian.</p>
+<p>The portions of the British Museum open to ordinary visitors
+<a name="page63"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 63</span>consist of
+an extensive series of galleries and saloons on the ground and
+upper floors, each devoted to the exhibition of a distinct class
+of objects.&nbsp; Among others are&mdash;terracottas, Roman
+sculptures and sepulchral antiquities, Sir T. Lawrence&rsquo;s
+collection of casts, British antiquities, ethnological specimens,
+Egyptian antiquities, several saloons containing the Elgin and
+Phigalian Marbles, Nineveh and Lycian sculptures, &amp;c.&nbsp;
+The rooms containing objects in natural history and artificial
+curiosities are handsomely fitted up with glass-cases on the
+walls and tables.&nbsp; Days may be spent in examining this vast
+assemblage of objects; and to assist in the inspection,
+catalogues for the entire Museum may be purchased at the door at
+a cheap price.&nbsp; 
+<a href="images/p63b.jpg">
+<img class='clearcenter' alt=
+"Reading Room, British Museum"
+title=
+"Reading Room, British Museum"
+src="images/p63s.jpg" />
+</a>The following will convey an idea of the order in which the
+general contents of the Museum meet the eye.&nbsp; Outside the
+building, in unsightly glass sheds under the porticos and
+colonnades, are ancient Greek sculptures from Asia Minor, chiefly
+from the famous Mausoleum of Halicarnassus; they are temporarily
+so <a name="page64"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 64</span>placed
+until room can be found for them elsewhere.&nbsp; On entering the
+hall or vestibule, and ascending the staircase, the galleries of
+natural history are reached&mdash;stuffed quadrupeds, including a
+<i>gorilla</i> purchased from M. Chaillu; stuffed birds;
+birds&rsquo; eggs; shells in immense variety and of surpassing
+beauty; minerals; and fossils.&nbsp; These occupy the eastern,
+northern, and part of the southern galleries.&nbsp; The western,
+and the rest of the southern galleries, are occupied by numerous
+antiquarian and ethnological collections&mdash;including Egyptian
+mummies and ornaments, Greek and Etruscan vases, Greek and Roman
+bronzes, ancient and medi&aelig;val porcelain, ivory carvings,
+and specimens of the dresses, weapons, instruments, &amp;c., of
+various nations.&nbsp; On the ground-floor, to the right of the
+hall, visitors are admitted to a room containing a curious
+collection of manuscripts, autographs, and early printed books;
+and to the King&rsquo;s Library, a beautiful apartment,
+containing the books presented by George IV.&nbsp; This room also
+possesses a small but extremely choice display of Italian,
+German, and Flemish drawings and engravings; together with a few
+<i>nielli</i>, (black engravings on silver plates.)&nbsp; The
+west side of the ground-floor is occupied by the ancient
+sculptures&mdash;Egyptian, Greek, Assyrian, Lycian, Roman,
+&amp;c.&mdash;A refreshment-room for visitors was opened in 1866,
+and is situated in the western basement.</p>
+<p>The British Museum is open on Mondays, Wednesdays, and
+Fridays, and the whole of Christmas, Easter, and Whitsun
+weeks.&nbsp; It is closed on the first week in January, May, and
+September, and on Christmas-day, Good-Friday, and
+Ash-Wednesday.&nbsp; The hour of opening is 10 o&rsquo;clock;
+that of closing varies from 4 till 6 o&rsquo;clock, according to
+the season of the year.&nbsp; During many years past there have
+been newspaper controversies and parliamentary debates touching
+the disposal of the rich contents of the Museum.&nbsp; Almost
+every part is filled to overflowing; but much diversity of
+opinion exists as to which portion, if any, shall be removed to
+another locality.&nbsp; Burlington House and the South Kensington
+Museum, each has its advocates.&nbsp; Immediate removal of part
+of the contents has been decided on.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p65b.jpg">
+<img class='clearcenter' alt=
+"Kensington Museum"
+title=
+"Kensington Museum"
+src="images/p65s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><b>South Kensington Museum</b>.&mdash;This very interesting
+national establishment <a name="page65"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 65</span>is situated at South Kensington, near
+the Cromwell and Exhibition Roads, on ground bought out of the
+profits of the Great Exhibition of 1851.&nbsp; The varied
+contents have been either presented to, or purchased by, the
+nation, with the exception of a few collections which have been
+lent for temporary periods.&nbsp; They consist of illustrations
+of manufactures and the useful arts; models of patented
+inventions; collections of raw produce, derived from the animal,
+vegetable, and mineral kingdoms; a museum of educational
+appliances; casts from sculptures and architectural ornaments;
+objects of ornamental art, both medi&aelig;val and modern; naval
+models, &amp;c.&nbsp; Besides these, there are the fine
+collections of paintings presented to the nation by Mr.
+Sheepshanks, and other liberal donors; and a portion of the
+Vernon collection, the rest being at the National Gallery.&nbsp;
+Turner&rsquo;s pictures, bequeathed to the nation in his will,
+were kept here for some years, but were removed to the National
+Gallery in 1861.&nbsp; There are, among the group of buildings,
+some devoted to the Government Department <a
+name="page66"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 66</span>of Science
+and Art; but the Museum generally is, so far as concerns the
+public, distinct.&nbsp; The Gallery of British Art contains many
+hundred pictures, including choice specimens by Turner, Wilkie,
+Mulready, Landseer, Leslie, Hogarth, Wilson, Gainsborough,
+Reynolds, Lawrence, Constable, Loutherbourg, Callcott, Collins,
+Etty, Stanfield, Roberts, Uwins, Creswick, Maclise, Webster,
+Eastlake, Ward, Cooke, Cooper, Danby, Goodall, &amp;c.&nbsp; The
+rooms containing these pictures, planned by Captain Fowke, are
+remarkable for the admirable mode of lighting, both by day and in
+the evening.&nbsp; On Mondays, Tuesdays, and Saturdays, the
+admission is free from 10 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> till 10
+<span class="smcap">p.m.</span>; on the other three days, called
+<i>students&rsquo;</i> days, 6d. is charged from 10 <span
+class="smcap">a.m.</span> till 4, 5, or 6, according to the
+season.&nbsp; This is one of the very few free exhibitions open
+in the evening (thrice a-week) as well as the daytime.</p>
+<p><b>Bethnal Green Museum</b>.&mdash;This is really a branch of
+the South Kensington Museum, and is situated not far from
+Shoreditch Church.&nbsp; It is accessible by omnibus from most
+parts of the City and the West End, and is not far distant from
+Victoria Park.&nbsp; It was formally opened, in 1872, by the
+Prince and Princess of Wales.&nbsp; At the present, its great
+attraction is the picture gallery; but it promises to become as
+popular as any museum in London, especially as technical
+information will become an essential feature of its future
+existence.&nbsp; It is open under the same regulations as are
+observed at the South Kensington Museum.</p>
+<p><b>Museum of Economic Geology</b>.&mdash;This small but
+interesting establishment, having an entrance in Jermyn Street,
+is a national museum for the exhibition of all such articles as
+belong to the mineral kingdom.&nbsp; It was built from the
+designs of Mr. Pennethorne, and was opened in 1851.&nbsp; Though
+less extensive than the British and South Kensington Museums, it
+is of a very instructive character.&nbsp; Besides the mineral
+specimens, raw and manufactured, it contains models, sections,
+and diagrams, illustrative of mining, metallurgy, and various
+manufactures.&nbsp; It is open, <i>free</i>, every day, except
+Friday.</p>
+<p><a name="page67"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+67</span><b>Museum of the College of Surgeons</b>.&mdash;This
+building, on the south side of Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn Fields, can be
+visited by strangers only through the introduction of members of
+the College.&nbsp; The Government, about seventy years ago,
+bought John Hunter&rsquo;s Anatomical Museum, and presented it to
+the College.&nbsp; The contents of the museum are illustrative of
+the structure and functions of the human body, both in the
+healthy and the diseased state; they have been classified and
+arranged with great skill by Professor Owen.</p>
+<p><b>United Service Museum</b>.&mdash;This is situated in
+Whitehall Yard.&nbsp; Admission is obtained through the members
+of the United Service Institution.&nbsp; The contents of the
+museum consist of models, weapons, and implements interesting to
+military men.&nbsp; Here see the robe worn by Tippoo Sahib, when
+killed at Seringapatam, in 1799.&nbsp; Also observe
+Siborne&rsquo;s extraordinary model of the battle of Waterloo;
+and notice the skeleton of the horse which Napoleon rode at that
+battle.</p>
+<p><b>East India Museum</b>.&mdash;Near the building last
+noticed, in Fife House, Whitehall, is deposited the collection
+known as the East India Museum, formerly deposited at the India
+House, in Leadenhall Street, and now belonging to the
+nation.&nbsp; It comprises a very curious assemblage of Oriental
+dresses, jewels, ornaments, furniture, musical instruments,
+models, paintings, tools, implements, idols, trinkets,
+&amp;c.&nbsp; Among the rest is the barbaric toy known as
+<i>Tippoo&rsquo;s Tiger</i>.&nbsp; It consists of a figure of a
+tiger trampling on a prostrate man, whom he is just about to
+seize with his teeth; the interior contains pipes and other
+mechanism, which, when wound up by a key, cause the figure of the
+man to utter cries of distress, and the tiger to roar.&nbsp; Such
+was one of the amusements of Tippoo Sahib!&nbsp; The museum is
+open free on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, from 10 till
+4.</p>
+<p><b>Royal Institution</b>.&mdash;This building, in Albemarle
+Street, is devoted to the prosecution of science, by means of
+lectures, experiments, discussions, and a scientific
+library.&nbsp; It has been rendered famous by the brilliant
+labours of Davy and Faraday.&nbsp; Admission is only obtainable
+by membership, or by fees for courses of lectures.</p>
+<p><b>Society of Arts</b>.&mdash;This institution has existed in
+John Street, <a name="page68"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+68</span>Adelphi, for a long series of years.&nbsp; Its object is
+the encouragement of arts, manufactures, agriculture, and
+commerce.&nbsp; Under the auspices of the late Prince Consort, it
+was mainly instrumental in bringing about the two great
+International Exhibitions of 1851 and 1862.&nbsp; The
+lecture-room contains six remarkable pictures by Barry,
+illustrative of &lsquo;Human Culture.&rsquo;&nbsp; Every year
+there are free exhibitions of manufactures and new mechanical
+inventions.</p>
+<p><b>Scientific Societies</b>.&mdash;There are many other
+Scientific Societies which hold their meetings in London; but
+only a few of them possess buildings worthy of much attention, or
+contain collections that would interest a mere casual
+visitor.&nbsp; The <i>Royal</i>, the <i>Astronomical</i>, the
+<i>Geological</i>, the <i>Chemical</i>, and the
+<i>Linn&aelig;an</i> Societies, the <i>College of Physicians</i>,
+the <i>Institution of Civil Engineers</i>, and others of like
+kind, are those to which we here refer.&nbsp; Many of these
+societies are at present accommodated with the use of apartments
+at the public expense, in Burlington House, Piccadilly.</p>
+<h2>NATIONAL GALLERY; ROYAL ACADEMY; ART EXHIBITIONS.</h2>
+<p><b>National Gallery</b>.&mdash;This building, in Trafalgar
+Square, is the chief depository of the pictures belonging to the
+nation.&nbsp; In 1824, the Government purchased the Angerstein
+collection of 38 pictures, for &pound;57,000, and exhibited it
+for a time at a house in Pall Mall.&nbsp; The present structure
+was finished in 1838, at a cost of about &pound;100,000, from the
+designs of Mr. Wilkins.&nbsp; Since that year till 1869, the
+Royal Academy occupied the eastern half, and the National Gallery
+the western.&nbsp; In the last-named year, the Royal Academy was
+removed to Burlington House; and the whole of the building is now
+what its name denotes.&nbsp; This National Gallery now comprises
+the Angerstein collection, together with numerous pictures
+presented to the nation by Lord Farnborough, Sir George Beaumont,
+the Rev. Holwell Carr, Mr. Vernon, and other persons; and, most
+recent of all, the Turner collection, bequeathed to the nation by
+that greatest of our landscape painters.&nbsp; Every year,
+likewise, witnesses the purchase of choice old pictures out of
+funds provided by Parliament.&nbsp; The grant annually is about
+&pound;10,000.&nbsp; To accommodate the constantly increasing
+collection, the centre of <a name="page69"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 69</span>the building was re-constructed in
+1861, and a very handsome new saloon built, in which are
+deposited the choicest examples of the Italian Schools of
+Painting: forming, with its contents, one of the noblest rooms of
+the kind in Europe.&nbsp; To name the pictures in this collection
+would be to name some of the finest works of the Italian,
+Spanish, Flemish, and French schools of painters.&nbsp; Some of
+the most costly of the pictures are the
+following:&mdash;Murillo&rsquo;s &lsquo;Holy Family,&rsquo;
+&pound;3000; Rubens&rsquo;s &lsquo;Rape of the Sabines,&rsquo;
+&pound;3000; Francia&rsquo;s &lsquo;Virgin and Child,&rsquo;
+&pound;3500; Sebastian del Piombo&rsquo;s &lsquo;Raising of
+Lazarus,&rsquo; 3500 guineas; Coreggio&rsquo;s &lsquo;Holy
+Family,&rsquo; &pound;3800; Perugino&rsquo;s &lsquo;Virgin and
+Child,&rsquo; &pound;4000; Claude&rsquo;s &lsquo;Seaport,&rsquo;
+&pound;4000; Rubens&rsquo;s &lsquo;Judgment of Paris,&rsquo;
+&pound;4200; Raffaelle&rsquo;s &lsquo;St. Catherine,&rsquo;
+&pound;5000; Rembrandt&rsquo;s &lsquo;Woman taken in
+Adultery,&rsquo; &pound;5250; Correggio&rsquo;s &lsquo;Ecce
+Homo,&rsquo; and &lsquo;Mercury instructing Cupid,&rsquo; 10,000
+guineas; and Paul Veronese&rsquo;s &lsquo;Family of
+Darius,&rsquo; &pound;14,000.</p>
+<p><b>Royal Academy</b>, <b>Burlington House</b>.&mdash;The
+Academy was established in 1768, for the encouragement of the
+fine arts.&nbsp; Until the finishing of Mr. Wilkin&rsquo;s
+building, the Academy held its meetings and exhibitions in a
+small number of rooms at Somerset House.&nbsp; Students are
+admitted on evidence of sufficient preliminary training, and
+taught gratuitously; but so far as the public is concerned, the
+Royal Academy is chiefly known by its famous Annual Exhibition of
+modern English pictures and sculptures, from May to July.&nbsp;
+This Exhibition is a very profitable affair to the Academy.&nbsp;
+Royal commissions and parliamentary committees find a difficulty
+in investigating the revenues, privileges, and claims of the
+Academy; it is known, however, that the schools are maintained
+out of the profits.&nbsp; Concerning the building in Trafalgar
+Square, most persons agree that the main front is too much cut up
+in petty detail, and that one of the finest sites in Europe has
+thus been comparatively neglected.&nbsp; Some have humorously
+nicknamed it &ldquo;The National Cruet Stand.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><b>National Portrait Gallery</b>.&mdash;This infant gallery,
+established by the nation in 1857, is now at Exhibition Road,
+South Kensington.&nbsp; The object is to be strictly confined to
+the collecting of a series of national portraits of persons of
+any note, whether of early or of late <a name="page70"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 70</span>days.&nbsp; A sum of &pound;2000
+a-year is voted for this purpose.&nbsp; The collection is yet
+only small, but very interesting, and is yearly increasing.&nbsp;
+Open free on Wednesdays and Saturdays.</p>
+<p><b>Soane Museum</b>.&mdash;This closely-packed collection,
+presented to the nation by the late Sir John Soane, the
+architect, occupies the house which he used to inhabit, at No.
+13, on the north side of Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn Fields.&nbsp; Every
+nook and corner of about 24 rooms is crowded with works of
+art&mdash;sarcophagi, ancient gems and intaglios, medals and
+coins, sculptures, sketches and models of sculptures, books of
+prints, portfolios of drawings, Hogarth&rsquo;s famous series of
+pictures of the &lsquo;Rake&rsquo;s Progress,&rsquo; and numerous
+other examples of <i>vertu</i>, some of which cost large sums of
+money.&nbsp; The place is open every Wednesday from February to
+August inclusive, and every Thursday and Friday in April, May,
+and June, from 10 till 4.&nbsp; Still, these are very
+insufficient facilities (only 56 days out of the 365 in the year)
+for seeing a fine collection of treasures.&nbsp; Orders for
+admission are sent, on application, by post.</p>
+<p><b>Art Exhibitions</b>.&mdash;There are always numerous
+picture exhibitions open in the summer months&mdash;such as those
+formed by the <i>British Institution</i>, the <i>Society of
+British Artists</i>, the <i>Society of Painters in Water
+Colours</i>, &amp;c.; concerning which information can be seen in
+the advertisement columns of the newspapers.&nbsp; At the British
+Institution there is a spring exhibition of modern pictures, and
+a summer exhibition of ancient.&nbsp; The price of admission to
+such places is almost invariably One Shilling.&nbsp; Other
+exhibitions, pertaining more to entertainment than to fine arts,
+are briefly noticed in a later section.</p>
+<h2>COLLEGES; SCHOOLS; HOSPITALS; CHARITIES.</h2>
+<p>London, as may well be imagined, is largely supplied with
+institutions tending to the proper care of the young, the aged,
+the sick, and the impoverished.&nbsp; A few of the more important
+among them are worthy of the attention of strangers.</p>
+<p><b>Colleges</b>.&mdash;The two chief colleges in London are
+connected with the <i>London University</i>.&nbsp; This
+University is a body of persons, not (as many suppose) a
+building.&nbsp; The body was established in 1837, <a
+name="page71"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 71</span>to confer
+degrees on the students or graduates of many different colleges
+in and about London.&nbsp; It occupies apartments at Burlington
+House, Piccadilly, lent by the government for examining purposes;
+but it neither teaches nor gives lectures.&nbsp; <i>University
+College</i>, in Gower Street, was originally called <i>London
+University</i>; but since 1837, the more limited designation has
+been given to it.&nbsp; 
+<a href="images/p71b.jpg">
+<img class='clearcenter' alt=
+"University College"
+title=
+"University College"
+src="images/p71s.jpg" />
+</a>It was founded in 1828, on the proprietary system, to afford
+a good middle-class education at a moderate expense, without
+limitation as to religious tests.&nbsp; Hence it is much
+frequented by Jews, Parsees, Hindoos, &amp;c.&nbsp; The whole
+range of college tuition is given, except divinity; with the
+addition of much fuller instruction in science and in modern
+languages than was before given in colleges.&nbsp; The building,
+with its lofty portico, might possibly have presented a good
+appearance <a name="page72"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+72</span>if the plans of the architect had been carried out; but,
+through want of funds, the wings have never been built, and the
+structure is ridiculously incomplete.&nbsp; The college possesses
+a fine collection of casts from Flaxman&rsquo;s sculptures,
+usually open to inspection by strangers.&nbsp; <i>King&rsquo;s
+College</i>, in the Strand, has been already mentioned as
+adjoining Somerset House on the east.&nbsp; It was founded in the
+same year as University College, expressly in connection with the
+Established Church of England.&nbsp; There was some sectarian
+bitterness between the two establishments at first, but both have
+settled down into a steady career of usefulness.&nbsp; The
+teaching of divinity, and the observance of church-service as
+part of the routine, are maintained at King&rsquo;s
+College.&nbsp; <i>Gordon College</i>, or <i>University Hall</i>,
+in Gordon Square, is an establishment mainly supported by
+Unitarians; the building itself, as a modern imitation of the old
+red-brick style, is worthy of a passing glance.&nbsp; <i>New
+College</i>, at St. John&rsquo;s Wood, for Congregationalists or
+Independents; the <i>Baptist College</i>, in the Regent&rsquo;s
+Park; the <i>English Presbyterian Theological College</i>,
+Guildford Street, W.C.; the <i>Wesleyan College</i>, in the
+Horseferry Road; <i>Hackney College</i>; and a few others of less
+note&mdash;are establishments maintained by various bodies of
+dissenters; some for educating ministers for the pulpit; some for
+training schoolmasters and schoolmistresses.&nbsp; Of the
+buildings so occupied, the handsomest is New College.&nbsp; This
+was established, a few years ago, as a substitute for
+<i>Highbury</i>, <i>Homerton</i>, and <i>Coward</i> Colleges, all
+belonging to the Congregationalists.&nbsp; <i>Gresham
+College</i>: this is not a college in the modern sense of the
+term; it is only a lecture-room.&nbsp; Sir Thomas Gresham left an
+endowment for an annual series of lectures, and residences and
+stipends for the lecturers.&nbsp; The charity was greatly misused
+during the 17th and 18th centuries.&nbsp; Public attention having
+been called to the subject, a new lecture hall was built, a few
+years ago, at the corner of Basinghall and Gresham Streets, out
+of the accumulated fund; and lectures are delivered here at
+certain periods of each year.&nbsp; The subjects are divinity,
+physic, astronomy, geometry, law, rhetoric, and music.&nbsp; The
+lectures take place in the middle of the day, some in Latin, some
+in English; they are freely open to the public; but <a
+name="page73"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 73</span>the auditors,
+at such an hour and in such a place&mdash;surrounded by the busy
+hum of commerce&mdash;are very few in number.&nbsp; Among the
+training colleges for schoolmasters and mistresses may be named
+the <i>National Society&rsquo;s</i> at Battersea; <i>St.
+Mark&rsquo;s Training College</i>, Fulham Road; the <i>Training
+Institution</i> for schoolmistresses, King&rsquo;s Road, Chelsea;
+the <i>British and Foreign</i> in the Borough Road; and the
+<i>Home and Colonial</i> in Gray&rsquo;s Inn Road.&nbsp; At
+Islington is a Church of England Training College for
+missionaries.&nbsp; The <i>College of Preceptors</i>, in Queen
+Square, resembles the London University in this, that it confers
+a sort of degree, or academical rank, but does not teach.&nbsp;
+Many so-called colleges are either proprietary or private
+schools.</p>
+<p><b>Great Public Schools</b>.&mdash;The chief of these in
+London is <i>Westminster School</i>, not for the building itself,
+but for the celebrity of the institution; although the college
+hall, once the refectory of the old abbots of Westminster, is
+interesting from its very antiquity.&nbsp; The school, which was
+founded in 1560, lies south-west of Westminster Abbey, but very
+near it.&nbsp; Some of our greatest statesmen and scholars have
+been educated here.&nbsp; <i>St. Paul&rsquo;s School</i>,
+situated on the eastern side of St. Paul&rsquo;s Churchyard, was
+founded in 1521, by Dean Colet, for the education of &lsquo;poor
+men&rsquo;s children.&rsquo;&nbsp; Like many others of the older
+schools, the benefits are not conferred so fully as they ought to
+be on the class designated.&nbsp; The presentations are wholly in
+the hands of the Mercers&rsquo; Company.&nbsp; The now existing
+school-house, the third on the same site, was built in
+1823.&nbsp; The <i>Charter House School</i>, near Aldersgate
+Street, is part of a charity established by Thomas Sutton in
+1611.&nbsp; Among other great men here educated were the late Sir
+Henry Havelock, and W. M. Thackeray.&nbsp; There is an Hospital
+or Almshouse for about 80 &lsquo;poor Brethren,&rsquo; men who
+have seen better days; and there is a school for the free
+education of 40 &lsquo;poor Boys,&rsquo; with many more whose
+parents pay for their schooling.&nbsp; The chapel and
+ante-chapel, the great hall and staircase, and the
+governor&rsquo;s room, are interesting parts of the
+building.&nbsp; <i>Christ&rsquo;s Hospital</i>, or the <i>Blue
+Coat School</i>&mdash;as it is commonly called from the colour of
+the boys&rsquo; dress&mdash;is situated within an enclosure on
+the north side of Newgate Street, and is one of the most splendid
+among the charitable foundations of <a name="page74"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 74</span>London.&nbsp; The buildings stand on
+the site of a monastery of Grey-friars, which was granted by
+Henry VIII. to the city for the use of the poor; and his son and
+successor, Edward VI., greatly extended the value of the gift by
+granting a charter for its foundation as a charity school, and at
+the same time endowing it with sundry benefactions.&nbsp; The
+hospital was opened, for the reception and education of boys, in
+1552.&nbsp; Charles II. added an endowment for a mathematical
+class; and with various augmentations of endowment, the annual
+revenue is now understood to be no less than &pound;40,000.&nbsp;
+This income supports and educates nearly 1200 children, 500 of
+whom, including girls, are boarded at the town of Hertford, for
+the sake of country air.&nbsp; The management of the institution
+is vested in a body of governors, composed of the lord mayor and
+aldermen, twelve common-councilmen chosen by lot, and all
+benefactors to the amount of &pound;400 and upwards.&nbsp; The
+children are admitted without reference to the City privileges of
+parents; about one hundred and fifty are entered annually.&nbsp;
+It is undeniable, however, that many children are admitted rather
+through interest than on account of the poverty of their
+parents.&nbsp; After instruction in the elementary branches of
+schooling, the greater number of the boys leave the hospital at
+the age of fifteen; those only remaining longer who intend to
+proceed to the university, or to go to sea after completing a
+course of mathematics.&nbsp; There are seven presentations at
+Cambridge, and one at Oxford, open to the scholars.&nbsp; The
+buildings of the institution embrace several structures of large
+dimensions, chiefly ranged round open courts, with cloisters
+beneath; and a Church, which also serves as a parochial place of
+worship.&nbsp; The only part of the establishment, however, worth
+examining for its architecture is the Great Hall, occupying the
+first floor of a building of modern date, designed by Mr. Shaw,
+in the Gothic style.&nbsp; It measures 187 feet long, 51 feet
+broad, and 47 high, and possesses an organ-gallery at the east
+end.&nbsp; In this magnificent apartment the boys breakfast,
+dine, and sup.&nbsp; Before meals, one of the elder inmates
+repeats a long grace or prayer, at the commencement of which the
+whole of the boys, in lines at their respective tables, fall on
+their knees.&nbsp; The boys are dressed in the costume selected
+for <a name="page75"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 75</span>them
+in Edward VI.&rsquo;s reign; the outer garments consisting of a
+long dark-blue coat, breeches, and yellow worsted
+stockings.&nbsp; The &lsquo;public suppers,&rsquo; on Thursdays
+in Lent, are worth the attention of strangers: (tickets from
+governors.)&nbsp; <i>Merchant Taylors&rsquo; School</i>, situated
+in a close part of the City behind the Mansion House, was founded
+in 1561 by the Merchant Taylors&rsquo; Company.&nbsp; The present
+structure was built in 1673, with the exception of some of the
+classrooms, which are much more modern.&nbsp; About 260 boys are
+educated, wholly on the presentation of members of the Company;
+and there are numerous fellowships at St. John&rsquo;s College,
+Oxford, open to the scholars.&nbsp; <i>Mercers&rsquo; Free
+Grammar School</i>, in College Hill, is a small establishment of
+similar kind.&nbsp; The <i>City of London School</i>, in Milk
+Street, Cheapside, is one of the most modern of these
+<i>Grammar</i> Schools, as they are called.&nbsp; It was founded
+in 1835, and possesses several Exhibitions for successful senior
+scholars.</p>
+<p><b>Other Schools</b>.&mdash;The schools established under the
+auspices of the National Society, called <i>National</i> Schools,
+are very numerous, but need hardly be noticed here.&nbsp; The
+<i>British and Foreign School Society</i>, in the Borough Road,
+and the <i>Home and Colonial School Society</i>, in Gray&rsquo;s
+Inn Road, train up teachers without reference to religious tests;
+whereas the <i>National Society</i> is in connection with the
+Church of England.&nbsp; Many very superior schools for girls,
+under the designation of <i>Ladies&rsquo; Colleges</i>, have been
+established in the metropolis within the last few years, in
+Harley Street and in Bedford Square, &amp;c.&nbsp; The
+<i>Government School of Art for Ladies</i> is in Queen Square,
+Bloomsbury.&nbsp; The <i>National Art Training School</i> is at
+South Kensington.</p>
+<p><b>The London School Board</b>, elected in 1870, under the new
+Education Act, has its <i>locale</i> at 33 New Bridge Street,
+Blackfriars.&nbsp; It has, practically speaking, almost entire
+control of the educational systems of the metropolis, and is
+armed with inquisitorial powers that remind us of the ancient
+Star Chamber.&nbsp; Still, the system of election of the members
+of the Board gives a certain guarantee of responsibility, that
+makes its prestige, at least, without suspicion.</p>
+<p><b>Schools of Telegraphy</b> are established at 138 Regent
+Street, W., and 24 City Road, E.C., where the art is fully
+instructed, to resident and non-resident pupils.</p>
+<p><a name="page76"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+76</span><b>Hospitals and Charitable Institutions</b>.&mdash;A
+small volume might readily be filled with a list of
+London&rsquo;s charitable institutions.&nbsp; The charities
+connected in some way with the corporation of London are
+<i>Christ&rsquo;s Hospital</i>, for boarding and educating youth,
+already mentioned; <i>Bethlehem Hospital</i>, Lambeth, for insane
+patients; <i>St. Thomas&rsquo;s Hospital</i>, for treating poor
+patients diseased and hurt; and <i>St. Bartholomew&rsquo;s
+Hospital</i>, West Smithfield, for the same purpose.&nbsp; The
+City companies likewise support a number of beneficiary
+institutions, such as the <i>Ironmongers&rsquo; Almhouses</i> at
+Kingsland, and others of like kind.&nbsp; The following hospitals
+are the most important among the large number founded and
+supported by private benevolence:&mdash;<i>Guy&rsquo;s
+Hospital</i>, Southwark; <i>London Hospital</i>, Whitechapel
+Road; <i>Westminster Hospital</i>, near the Abbey; <i>St.
+George&rsquo;s Hospital</i>, Hyde Park Corner; <i>Middlesex
+Hospital</i>, Charles Street, Oxford Street; <i>University
+College Hospital</i>, Gower Street; <i>St. Luke&rsquo;s
+Hospital</i>, for the insane, City Road; <i>King&rsquo;s College
+Hospital</i>, near Clare Market; <i>Small-Pox Hospital</i>,
+Highgate Rise; the <i>Foundling Hospital</i>, Great Guildford
+Street; the <i>Consumption Hospital</i>, Brompton; <i>Charing
+Cross Hospital</i>, Agar Street; the <i>Lock Hospital</i>, Harrow
+Road; and the <i>Royal Free Hospital</i>, Gray&rsquo;s Inn
+Road.&nbsp; Besides these, there are several Lying-in hospitals,
+a Floating hospital on the Thames, now substituted by a part of
+Greenwich Hospital being devoted to a similar use; various
+Ophthalmic hospitals, and numerous Dispensaries and Infirmaries
+for particular diseases.&nbsp; Institutions for the relief of
+indigent persons, Deaf and Dumb asylums, Blind asylums, and
+Orphan asylums, are far too numerous to be specified.&nbsp; In
+short, there are in this great metropolis about 250 hospitals,
+dispensaries, infirmaries, asylums, and almshouses; besides at
+least 400 religious, visiting, and benevolent institutions for
+ministering to the various ills, mental and moral, bodily or
+worldly, to which an immense population is always subject.&nbsp;
+It is supposed that these several institutions receive in
+subscriptions considerably over &pound;2,000,000 annually.&nbsp;
+Some of the hospital buildings above named are large and majestic
+in appearance.&nbsp; When, for the Charing Cross extension of the
+South-Eastern Railway, St. Thomas&rsquo;s Hospital and site, <a
+name="page77"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 77</span>which
+formerly stood close to London Bridge Station, were purchased for
+a sum not very much under &pound;300,000, it was arranged to
+rebuild the hospital between the south end of Westminster Bridge
+and Lambeth Palace.&nbsp; This hospital, which is now completed,
+affords a fine object from a steamboat passing up the river, and
+is certainly one of the noblest buildings of its class in
+Europe.</p>
+<h2>THE TOWER; THE MINT; THE CUSTOM HOUSE; THE GENERAL POST
+OFFICE.</h2>
+<p>This section treats of four important government buildings
+situated in the eastern half of the metropolis.</p>
+<p><b>The Tower of London</b>.&mdash;This famous structure, or
+rather group of structures, is a cluster of houses, towers,
+barracks, armouries, warehouses, and prison-like edifices,
+situated on the north bank of the Thames, and separated from the
+crowded narrow streets of the city by an open space of ground
+called Tower-hill.&nbsp; The Tower was founded by William the
+Conqueror, probably on the site of an older fortress, to secure
+his authority over the inhabitants of London; but the original
+fort which he established on the spot was greatly extended by
+subsequent monarchs; and in the twelfth century it was surrounded
+by a wet ditch, which was improved in the reign of Charles
+II.&nbsp; This ditch or moat was drained in 1843.&nbsp; Within
+the outer wall the ground measures upwards of twelve acres.&nbsp;
+Next the river there is a broad quay; and on this side also there
+was a channel (now closed) by which boats formerly passed into
+the main body of the place.&nbsp; This water-entrance is known by
+the name of Traitors&rsquo; Gate, being that by which, in former
+days, state prisoners were brought in boats after their trial at
+Westminster.&nbsp; There are three other entrances or
+postern-gates&mdash;Lion Gate, Iron Gate, and Water
+Gate&mdash;only two of which, however, are now used.&nbsp; The
+interior of the Tower is an irregular assemblage of short streets
+and courtyards, bounded by various structures.&nbsp; The <i>White
+Tower</i>, or <i>Keep</i>, is the oldest of these buildings; and
+the <i>Chapel</i> in it is a fine specimen of a small Norman
+church.&nbsp; Other towers are the <i>Lion Tower</i>, near the
+principal entrance; the <i>Middle Tower</i>, the first seen <a
+name="page78"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 78</span>on passing
+the ditch; the <i>Bell Tower</i>, adjacent to it; the <i>Bloody
+Tower</i>, nearly opposite <i>Traitors&rsquo; Gate</i>; the
+<i>Salt Tower</i>, near the Iron Gate; <i>Brick Tower</i>, where
+Lady Jane Grey was confined; <i>Bowyer Tower</i>, where the Duke
+of Clarence is said to have been 
+<a href="images/p78b.jpg">
+<img class='clearcenter' alt=
+"Chapel in Tower"
+title=
+"Chapel in Tower"
+src="images/p78s.jpg" />
+</a>drowned in the butt of malmsey; and <i>Beauchamp Tower</i>,
+where Anne Boleyn was imprisoned.&nbsp; These old towers are very
+curious, but few of them are open to the public.&nbsp; The
+principal objects of interest are a collection of cannon, being
+trophies of war; the horse armoury, a most interesting collection
+of suits of mail on stuffed figures; and the crown and other
+insignia of royalty.&nbsp; In the <i>Horse Armoury</i>, a long
+gallery built in 1826, is an extensive collection of armour,
+arranged by Sir Samuel Meyrick, a great authority on this
+subject.&nbsp; It comprises whole suits of armour, consisting of
+hauberks, chausses, surcoats, baldricks, breast-plates,
+back-plates, chain-mail sleeves and skirts, gauntlets, helmets,
+frontlets, vamplates, flanchards, <a name="page79"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 79</span>and other pieces known to the old
+armourers.&nbsp; About twenty complete suits of armour are placed
+upon stuffed figures of men, mostly on stuffed horses.&nbsp; Four
+of the suits belonged to Henry VIII., Dudley Earl of Leicester,
+Henry Prince of Wales, and Charles I.; the others are merely
+intended to illustrate the kinds of armour in vogue at certain
+periods.&nbsp; One suit, of the time of Richard III., 
+<a href="images/p79b.jpg">
+<img class='clearcenter' alt=
+"Traitor&rsquo;s Gate, Chapel White Tower"
+title=
+"Traitor&rsquo;s Gate, Chapel White Tower"
+src="images/p79s.jpg" />
+</a>was worn by the Marquis of Waterford at the Eglinton
+tournament in 1839.&nbsp; The gallery also contains some other
+curiosities relating to the armour of past days.&nbsp; <i>Queen
+Elizabeth&rsquo;s Armoury</i> is in the White Tower, the walls of
+which are 13 feet thick, and still contain traces of inscriptions
+by state prisoners in troubled times: the armoury contains many
+curious old shields, bows, Spanish instruments of torture,
+petronels, partisans, beheading axe and <a
+name="page80"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 80</span>block,
+thumb-screws, Lochaber axes, matchlocks, arquebuses, swords,
+&amp;c.&nbsp; Immediately outside these Armouries, in the open
+air, are some curious cannon and mortars belonging to different
+ages and different countries.&nbsp; The new <i>Barracks</i>
+occupy the site of the Small Arms Armoury, destroyed by fire in
+1841, when 280,000 stand of arms were destroyed.&nbsp; The
+<i>Lions</i> in the Tower were among the sights of the place for
+nearly 600 years; they were in a building near the present
+ticket-office, but were given to the Zoological Society in
+1834.&nbsp; The <i>Jewel House</i>, a well-guarded room to the
+east of the Armouries, contains a valuable collection of state
+jewels.&nbsp; Among them are the following:&mdash;<i>St.
+Edward&rsquo;s Crown</i>, used at all the coronations from
+Charles II. to William IV.; the <i>New State Crown</i>, made for
+the coronation of Queen Victoria, and valued at more than
+&pound;100,000; the <i>Prince of Wales&rsquo;s</i> and the
+<i>Queen Consort&rsquo;s Crowns</i> (the most recent wearer of
+the last was Queen Adelaide); the <i>Queen&rsquo;s Diadem</i>;
+the <i>Royal Sceptre</i>, <i>Queen&rsquo;s Sceptre</i>, and
+<i>Queen&rsquo;s Ivory Sceptre</i>; the <i>Orb</i> and the
+<i>Queen&rsquo;s Orb</i>; <i>St. Edward&rsquo;s Staff</i> and the
+<i>Rod of Equity</i>; the <i>Swords of Mercy and of Justice</i>;
+the <i>Coronation Bracelets</i> and <i>Royal Spurs</i>; the
+<i>Ampulla</i> for the holy oil, and the <i>Coronation Spoon</i>;
+the silver-gilt <i>Baptismal Font</i>, used at the christening of
+royal children; and the famous <i>Koh-i-noor</i>, or
+&lsquo;Mountain of Light,&rsquo; the wonderful diamond once
+belonging to Runjeet Singh, chief of Lahore, but now the property
+of Queen Victoria,&mdash;it was an object of great interest at
+the two great Exhibitions in 1851 and 1862.&nbsp; Strangers, on
+applying at an office at the entrance from Tower-hill, are
+conducted through a portion of the buildings by warders, who wear
+a curious costume of Henry VIII.&rsquo;s time&mdash;some years
+ago rendered incongruous by the substitution of black trousers
+for scarlet hose.&nbsp; These warders, or <i>beef-eaters</i> (as
+they are often called), go their rounds with visitors every
+half-hour from 10 till 4.&nbsp; The word
+&ldquo;beef-eaters&rdquo; was a vulgar corruption of
+<i>beaufetiers</i>, battle-axe guards, who were first raised by
+Henry VII. in 1485.&nbsp; They were originally attendants upon
+the king&rsquo;s buffet.&nbsp; A fee of 6d. is charged for seeing
+the Armouries, and 6d. for the Jewel House.&nbsp; From time to
+time, when foreign politics look threatening, the Tower undergoes
+alterations and renovations <a name="page81"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 81</span>to increase its utility as a
+fortress; and it is at all times under strict military
+government.</p>
+<p><b>The Mint</b>.&mdash;This structure, situated a little
+north-east of the Tower, is the establishment in which the
+coinage is in great part made, and wholly regulated.&nbsp; The
+rooms, the machinery, and the processes for coining, are all full
+of interest.&nbsp; The assaying of the gold and silver for
+coinage; the alloying and melting; the casting into ingots; the
+flattening, rolling, and laminating of the ingots to the proper
+thickness; the cutting into strips, and the strips into circular
+blanks; the stamping of those blanks on both surfaces; and the
+testing to ascertain that every coin is of the proper
+weight&mdash;are all processes in which very beautiful and
+perfect apparatus is needed.&nbsp; Copper and bronze coins are
+mostly made for the government at Birmingham.&nbsp; From a
+statement made in parliament, in August, 1869, by the Right Hon.
+Robert Lowe, we gathered that <i>98 millions of sovereigns</i>
+had been coined in the Mint since 1850.&nbsp; But of these no
+fewer than 44 millions had been lost to our coinage, because many
+of the sovereigns, being overweight, had been sent to the
+Continent to be melted down as bullion!&nbsp; There are nearly
+500 millions of copper coin in circulation; and of silver coin,
+from crown pieces down to threepenny pieces, something like the
+astounding number of 286,220,000.&nbsp; Permission to view this
+interesting establishment could at one time only be obtained by
+special application to the Master of the Mint, who has an
+official residence at the spot; but since the death of the late
+Master, Dr. Graham, that office will not in future be filled
+up.&nbsp; A letter to the Deputy Master will probably obtain the
+required order to view.&nbsp; We should add that the removal of
+the Mint to Somerset House is now seriously contemplated.&nbsp;
+It is urged that the price of its present site, if sold, would
+readily defray cost of removal.</p>
+<p><b>Custom House</b>.&mdash;This important building, situated
+on the north bank of the Thames, between London Bridge and the
+Tower, occupies a site on which other and smaller custom houses
+had previously stood.&nbsp; The east and west ends of the present
+structure were finished in 1817 by Mr. Laing; but the central
+portion was rebuilt afterwards from the designs of Sir Robert
+Smirke.&nbsp; The <a name="page82"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+82</span>river front is extensive, and although not
+architecturally fine, the general appearance is effective.&nbsp;
+One of the few broad terraces on the banks of the Thames is that
+in front of the Custom House; it is a good position from whence
+strangers can view the shipping in the river.&nbsp; The
+&lsquo;Long Room&rsquo; in this building is 190 feet long by 66
+broad.&nbsp; By way of illustrating the enormous amount of
+business done here, we may mention, that in the years
+1867&ndash;68, the amount of Customs&rsquo; receipts collected in
+the port of London was <i>more</i> than 
+<a href="images/p82b.jpg">
+<img class='clearcenter' alt=
+"Billingsgate, Coal Exchange, and Custom House.  (Fenchurch
+Station, behind at the right.)"
+title=
+"Billingsgate, Coal Exchange, and Custom House.  (Fenchurch
+Station, behind at the right.)"
+src="images/p82s.jpg" />
+</a>that of all the <i>other ports</i> of <i>Great Britain</i>
+taken together, and five times that of the whole of
+Ireland.&nbsp; In 1867, the port of London gross receipts were
+&pound;10,819,711; and in 1868, &pound;10,694,494.&nbsp; The vast
+Customs&rsquo; duties for the port of London, amounting to nearly
+half of those for the whole United Kingdom, are managed here.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page83"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 83</span>
+<a href="images/p83b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"General Post Office, &amp;c.  (Tower, Monument, and London
+Bridge in the distance.)"
+title=
+"General Post Office, &amp;c.  (Tower, Monument, and London
+Bridge in the distance.)"
+src="images/p83s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><b>General Poet Office</b>.&mdash;This large building, at the
+corner of Cheapside and St. Martin&rsquo;s-le-Grand, was finished
+in 1829, from the designs of Sir Robert Smirke.&nbsp; It is in
+the Ionic style, with a lofty central portico; beneath which is
+the entrance to the spacious hall (80 feet long, 60 feet wide,
+and 53 feet high), having also an entrance at the opposite
+extremity; but the central Hall is now entirely enclosed, owing
+to the recent great extension of the Postal business.&nbsp; A
+Money-order Office has been built on the opposite side of the
+street; and the Post Office has been added to in various ways, to
+make room for increased business.&nbsp; The main building, which
+contains a vast number of rooms, is enclosed by a railing; and at
+the north end is a courtyard, in which mail-vans range up and
+depart with their load of bags, at certain hours in the morning
+and evening, for the several railway termini.&nbsp; At other
+portions <a name="page84"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+84</span>of the building the foreign, colonial, and India mails
+are despatched.&nbsp; From six to seven o&rsquo;clock in the
+evening a prodigious bustle prevails in putting letters into the
+Post Office; and on Saturday evening, when the Sunday newspapers
+are posted, the excitement is still further
+increased&mdash;especially just before six, by which hour the
+newspapers must be posted.&nbsp; The establishment, some four
+years ago, employed 20,000 clerks, sorters, and letter-carriers
+in the various parts of the United Kingdom; and since the Post
+Office took over the business of the Telegraph Companies, the
+number of its employ&eacute;s is greatly increased.&nbsp; The
+postage charged on foreign and colonial letters is too small to
+pay for the mail-packets and other expenses; profit is derived
+only from the inland letters.&nbsp; There are now in London and
+the suburbs about 730 pillar-boxes and wall-boxes; without
+counting receiving houses.&nbsp; Newspapers and book packets must
+not be put in town pillar-boxes.&nbsp; A very useful novelty,
+<i>Post Office Savings&rsquo; Banks</i>, was introduced in
+1861.&nbsp; In the year 1840, in which the uniform rate of one
+penny per letter of half an ounce weight, &amp;c., commenced, the
+revenue of the Post Office was only &pound;471,000.&nbsp; Its
+revenue received during the year 1871&ndash;72 was no less than
+&pound;6,102,900, and every year the receipts are
+increasing.&nbsp; New postal buildings of great extent have been
+erected on the opposite side of the street.</p>
+<h2>THE CORPORATION; MANSION HOUSE; GUILDHALL; MONUMENT; ROYAL
+EXCHANGE.</h2>
+<p>It will be convenient to group here certain buildings
+belonging to the Corporation of London; and to prefix to a notice
+of them some account of the mode in which the city of London is
+governed.</p>
+<p><b>The Corporation</b>.&mdash;With respect to civic
+jurisdiction, the city of London is governed in a peculiar
+manner.&nbsp; In virtue of ancient charters and privileges, the
+city is a species of independent community, governed by its own
+laws and functionaries.&nbsp; While all other boroughs have been
+reformed in their constitution, London has been suffered to
+remain, as yet, in the enjoyment of nearly all its <a
+name="page85"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 85</span>old
+usages.&nbsp; The city is civilly divided into twenty-five wards,
+each of which has an alderman; and with one alderman without a
+ward, the number of aldermen is 26.&nbsp; Each is chosen for
+life, and acts as magistrate within his division.&nbsp; The
+freemen of the various wards elect representatives annually to
+the common-council, to the number of 206 members.&nbsp; The lord
+mayor, aldermen, and common-council, compose the legislative body
+for the city.&nbsp; The lord mayor is chosen by a numerous and
+respectable constituency, called <i>the livery</i>, or liverymen;
+these are certain qualified members of trading corporations, who,
+except in electing the lord mayor, sheriffs, members of
+parliament, &amp;c., do not directly interfere in city
+management.&nbsp; The Court of Aldermen and the Court of
+Common-council have certain legislative and executive duties,
+partly with and partly without the immediate aid of the lord
+mayor.&nbsp; The revenue of the city corporation is derived from
+sundry dues, rents, interest of bequests, fines for leases,
+&amp;c.&nbsp; The magistracy, police, and prisons cost about
+&pound;40,000 annually; but this is exclusive of large sums
+disbursed by the court of aldermen.&nbsp; The lord mayor is
+elected annually, on the 29th of September, from among the body
+of aldermen.&nbsp; The livery send a list of two candidates to
+the court of aldermen, and one of these, generally the senior, is
+chosen by them.&nbsp; He enters office, with much pomp, on the
+9th of November, which is hence called Lord Mayor&rsquo;s
+Day.&nbsp; The procession through the streets on this occasion
+attracts citizens as well as strangers.&nbsp; The advocate and
+legal adviser of the corporation is an official with the title of
+Recorder.&nbsp; The lord mayor and corporation exercise a
+jurisdiction over Southwark and other precincts.&nbsp;
+Westminster, which is not connected in civic matters with London
+Proper, is under the jurisdiction of a high-bailiff.&nbsp; The
+city returns 4 members to Parliament, besides the 16 returned by
+Westminster, Southwark, Marylebone, Tower Hamlets, Finsbury,
+Lambeth, Chelsea, and Greenwich.</p>
+<p>In 1829, the old mode of protection by <i>Watchmen</i> was
+abolished in all parts of the metropolis except the city, and a
+new <i>Police Force</i> established by Act of Parliament.&nbsp;
+This has been a highly successful and beneficial
+improvement.&nbsp; The new police is under <a
+name="page86"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 86</span>the
+management of commissioners, who are in direct communication with
+the Secretary of State for the Home Department; under the
+commissioners are superintendents, inspectors, sergeants, and
+constables.&nbsp; The district under their care includes the
+whole metropolis and environs, with the exception of the city,
+grouped into 21 divisions, each denoted by a letter.&nbsp; The
+constables wear a blue uniform, and are on duty at all times of
+the day and night.&nbsp; Three-fourths of the expenses are paid
+out of the parish rates, but limited to an assessment of 8d. per
+pound on the rental; the remainder is contributed from the public
+purse.&nbsp; The corporation have since established a Police
+Force for the city on the model of that above mentioned.&nbsp; In
+addition to two Police Offices for the city, at the Mansion House
+and Guildhall, there are eleven for the remaining parts of the
+metropolis,&mdash;viz., Bow Street, Clerkenwell, Great
+Marlborough Street, Thames, Worship Street, Southwark,
+Marylebone, Westminster, Lambeth, Greenwich and Woolwich, and
+Hammersmith and Wandsworth.&nbsp; The Thames Police have a
+peculiar jurisdiction over the river.&nbsp; In 1836, a horse
+patrol was added to the Bow Street establishment, consisting of
+inspectors and patrols, whose sphere of action is the less
+frequented roads around the metropolis.&nbsp; With all these
+means of preserving the peace and preventing crime, the
+metropolis is now one of the most orderly cities in the world;
+and provided strangers do not seek the haunts of vice, but pursue
+their way steadily, they run little or no risk of
+molestation.&nbsp; The number of metropolitan police in 1872 was
+about 9,000; of city police, 700&mdash;including, in both cases,
+superintendents, inspectors, &amp;c., &amp;c.&nbsp; The
+commissioner of metropolitan police is Lieutenant-Colonel E. Y.
+W. Henderson, C.B., 4 Whitehall Place, S.W.; the commissioner of
+city police is Colonel James Fraser, C.B., 26 Old Jewry, E.C.</p>
+<p>The <i>Drainage</i> of London was a matter barely understood
+at all, and in no wholesome sense practised, till some time after
+the Board of Works was formed, in 1855, when their best efforts
+to check a rapidly growing evil&mdash;viz., the casting of
+London&rsquo;s poisonous sewage into the Thames at our very
+doors&mdash;were called into play.&nbsp; The estimated cost of
+one of the most colossal schemes of modern times was, <a
+name="page87"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 87</span>at its
+outset, put down at something over three millions; and when the
+vast plan for main drainage was commenced, in 1859, a sanitary
+revolution began.&nbsp; A far greater sum, however, must be
+expended ere the idea is wholly carried out.&nbsp; It is
+obviously out of our power, in our limited space, to do anything
+more than give the reader a mere rough notion of the good to be
+done and the difficulties to be overcome.&nbsp; The plan was to
+construct some 70 odd miles of gigantic sewers on either side of
+the Thames.&nbsp; The north side of the river has three different
+lines of sewers, which meet at the river Lea, and thereafter go
+along, in one huge embankment, to Barking Creek, on the Thames,
+14 miles below London Bridge.&nbsp; With certain differences, the
+sewage of the south side of the Thames is amenable to the same
+kind of treatment.&nbsp; By some returns, furnished in June,
+1870, by the engineer of the Metropolitan Board of Works, it
+appears that the average daily quantity of sewage pumped into the
+river Thames at Crossness was 170,934 cubic metres, and at
+Barking 152,808 cubic metres&mdash;equivalent to about as many
+tons by weight.&nbsp; That quantity, of course, will every year,
+as London grows, increase.&nbsp; As the sewers on the north side
+of the river get more near to the sea, they can be seen.&nbsp;
+The south side sewers are nearly all out of sight.&nbsp; As the
+tide flows, the filth of London, by their means, is poured into
+the water.&nbsp; As it ebbs, the sewage is carried out to
+sea.&nbsp; Powerful steam-engines, for pumping up sewage from low
+levels, are used as they are required.&nbsp; The clerk of the
+Metropolitan Board of Works, who may be seen at Spring Gardens,
+Charing Cross, will, we should fancy, oblige any gentleman with
+engineering proclivities with an order to view what has already
+been accomplished by marvellous ability and
+enterprise,&mdash;whose results can in no fair sense gain
+anything like fair appreciation without personal inspection.</p>
+<p>London is <i>Lighted</i> by sundry joint-stock gas companies;
+the parishes contract with them for street lights, and
+individuals for the house and shop lights.&nbsp; Gas was first
+introduced into London, in Golden Lane, in 1807; in Pall Mall in
+1809; and generally through London in 1814.&nbsp; There are
+something like 2,500 miles of gas-pipes in and about London.</p>
+<p><a name="page88"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 88</span>The
+first of the public <i>Baths</i> and <i>Wash-houses</i> was
+established near the London Docks in 1844.&nbsp; The number, of
+course, has vastly increased.&nbsp; Many of them are maintained
+by the parish authorities, and are very cheap.</p>
+<p>The first public <i>Drinking Fountain</i> in London was
+erected, near St. Sepulchre&rsquo;s Church, close to Newgate, in
+1859.&nbsp; There are now nearly 200 such fountains and troughs
+for animals in London.</p>
+<p>In 1833, by an agreement among the Fire Insurance offices,
+there was established a regular fire-suppression police, or
+<i>Fire Brigade</i>, consisting of a superintendent, foremen,
+engineers, sub-engineers, and firemen; numerous engines are in
+constant readiness at fifty-four different stations.&nbsp; (The
+brigade is now placed under public control, supported by a
+house-rate.)&nbsp; The fires in London exceed 1,500 annually, on
+an average.</p>
+<p><b>Mansion House</b>.&mdash;This is a tall square mass of dark
+stone building, nearly opposite the Bank and the Royal Exchange,
+with a portico of six Corinthian columns in front, resting on a
+low rustic basement.&nbsp; This edifice, which extends a
+considerable depth behind, is the official residence of the Lord
+Mayor of London, provided by the city corporation.&nbsp; Besides
+an extensive suite of domestic apartments, it contains a number
+of state-rooms, in which company is received and
+entertained.&nbsp; The chief of these rooms are the Egyptian hall
+and the ball-room, which have a grand appearance.&nbsp; Some fine
+sculptures by British artists&mdash;the best of which are
+Foley&rsquo;s &lsquo;Caractacus and Egeria,&rsquo; and
+Bailey&rsquo;s &lsquo;Genius and the Morning
+Star&rsquo;&mdash;have recently been added; the corporation
+having voted a sum of money for this purpose.&nbsp; The lord
+mayor&rsquo;s annual stipend is &pound;5,997 8s. 4d., with
+certain allowances, we believe, not stated; and in the Mansion
+House he has the use of a superb collection of plate: he is
+likewise allowed the use of a state-coach, &amp;c.&nbsp; Every
+lord mayor, however, expends more than this sum during his year
+of office in grand banquets.</p>
+<p><b>Guildhall</b>.&mdash;This may be regarded as the
+<i>Town-hall</i>, or what the French would call the <i>Hotel de
+Ville</i>, of London; where are held meetings of the livery to
+elect members of parliament, lord mayor, <a
+name="page89"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 89</span>sheriffs, and
+others, and where the grandest civic entertainments are
+given.&nbsp; It is situated at the end of King Street,
+Cheapside.&nbsp; The building is old, but received a new front,
+in a strange kind of Gothic, in 1789.&nbsp; The interior of the
+grand hall is 153 feet long, 48 feet broad, and 55 feet high; it
+is one of the largest rooms in London, and can accommodate about
+3,500 persons at dinner.&nbsp; Two clumsy colossal figures,
+called Gog and Magog, the history of which has never clearly been
+made out, are placed at the west end of the hall.&nbsp; Around it
+are some fine marble monuments to Lord Mayor Beckford, Lord
+Nelson, the Duke of Wellington, the Earl of Chatham, and his son,
+William Pitt.&nbsp; Note the stained glass with the armorial
+bearings of the twelve great city companies; also observe, in the
+passage leading to the common-council chamber, the portrait of
+General Sir W. F. Williams, the heroic defender of Kars in
+1855.&nbsp; At the top of the council chamber will be seen
+Chantrey&rsquo;s statue of George III.; a picture of the siege of
+Gibraltar, by Copley; and Northcote&rsquo;s &lsquo;Wat Tyler
+slain by Lord Mayor Walworth,&rsquo; with other pictures and
+portraits.&nbsp; Near by are several offices for corporate and
+law courts.&nbsp; The <i>Library</i> contains many valuable
+antiquities, books, coins, pottery, &amp;c., and some interesting
+autographs.&nbsp; Note that of Shakespere, on a deed of purchase
+of a house in Blackfriars.&nbsp; The <i>Crypt</i> is a curious
+underground vault.&nbsp; On Lord Mayor&rsquo;s Day the grand
+dinner usually costs about &pound;2,200.&nbsp; On the 18th June,
+1814, when the Allied Sovereigns dined here, the gold plate was
+valued at &pound;200,000.</p>
+<p><b>The Monument</b>.&mdash;This may be regarded as a corporate
+structure, although it answers no useful purpose.&nbsp; It is a
+fluted Doric column, situated in a small space of ground
+adjoining the southern extremity of King William Street, on the
+descent to Lower Thames Street.&nbsp; It was begun in 1671, and
+finished in 1677, at a cost of about &pound;14,500, in
+commemoration of the Great Fire of London, which began at the
+distance of 202 feet eastward from the spot, in 1666; and its
+height has on that account (so we are told) been made 202
+feet.&nbsp; It is a handsome column, with a gilt finial intended
+to represent flames of fire.&nbsp; Visitors are allowed to ascend
+by a winding stair of 345 steps to the top; fee, 3d.&nbsp; No
+better place can be <a name="page90"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+90</span>chosen from which to view the river, the shipping, and
+the city generally.</p>
+<p><b>The Royal Exchange</b>.&mdash;This is a handsome
+quadrangular building on the north side of Cornhill, having in
+the centre an open court with colonnades.&nbsp; The chief
+entrance faces an open paved space on the west, on which is
+placed an equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington.&nbsp; The
+building was erected from plans by Mr. Tite, and was opened in
+1844; it occupies the site of the former Exchange, which was
+accidentally destroyed by fire.&nbsp; The pediment contains
+sculptures by Sir R. Westmacott, R.A.&nbsp; The lower part of the
+exterior is laid out as shops, which greatly injure the
+architectural effect; the upper rooms are occupied as public
+offices, one of which is <i>Lloyd&rsquo;s</i>, or, more properly,
+<i>Lloyd&rsquo;s Subscription Rooms</i>, where merchants,
+shipowners, shippers, and underwriters congregate.&nbsp; A statue
+of the Queen is in the centre of the quadrangular area.&nbsp; The
+busy time on &rsquo;Change is from 3 till 4 o&rsquo;clock,
+Tuesday and Friday being the principal days.</p>
+<h2>THE TEMPLE; INNS OF COURT; COURTS OF JUSTICE; PRISONS.</h2>
+<p>The buildings noticed in this section belong partly to the
+crown, partly to the corporation of London, and partly to other
+bodies.</p>
+<p><b>The Temple</b>.&mdash;Contiguous to the south side of Fleet
+Street is a most extensive series of buildings, comprising
+several squares and rows, called the <i>Temple</i>; belonging to
+the members of two societies, the <i>Inner</i> and <i>Middle
+Temple</i>, consisting of benchers, barristers, and
+students.&nbsp; This famous old place, taken in its completeness,
+was, in 1184, the metropolitan residence of the Knights Templars,
+who held it until their downfall in 1313; soon afterwards it was
+occupied by students of the law; and in 1608 James I. presented
+the entire group of structures to the benchers of the two
+societies, who have ever since been the absolute owners.&nbsp;
+The entrance to Inner Temple, from Fleet Street, consists of
+nothing more than a mere gateway; the entrance to Middle Temple
+was designed by Sir Christopher Wren.&nbsp; <i>Middle Temple
+Hall</i>, 100 feet long, 42 wide, and 47 high, is considered to
+have one of the finest Elizabethan <a name="page91"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 91</span>roofs in London.&nbsp; A group of
+chambers, called <i>Paper Buildings</i>, built near the river, is
+a good example of revived Elizabethan.&nbsp; A new <i>Inner
+Temple Hall</i> was formally opened, in 1870, by the Princess
+Louise.&nbsp; In October, 1861, when the Prince of Wales was
+elected a bencher of the Middle Temple, a new <i>Library</i> was
+formally opened, which had been constructed at a cost of
+&pound;13,000; it is a beautiful ornament to the place, as seen
+from the river.&nbsp; The <i>Temple Church</i>, a few yards only
+down from Fleet Street, is one of the most interesting churches
+in London.&nbsp; All the main parts of the structure are as old
+as the time of the Knights Templars; but the munificent sum of
+&pound;70,000 was spent, about twenty years ago, in restoring and
+adorning it.&nbsp; There are two portions, the <i>Round
+Church</i> and the <i>Choir</i>, the one nearly 700 years old,
+and the other more than 600.&nbsp; The monumental effigies, the
+original sculptured heads in the Round Church, the triforium, and
+the fittings of the Choir, are all worthy of attention.&nbsp; The
+north side of the church has recently been laid open by the
+removal of adjoining buildings; and in their place some handsome
+chambers are erected.&nbsp; Hard by, in the churchyard, is the
+grave of Oliver Goldsmith, who died in chambers (since pulled
+down) in Brick Court.&nbsp; The Sunday services are very fine,
+and always attract many strangers.&nbsp; The <i>Temple
+Gardens</i>, fronting the river, are probably the best in the
+city.</p>
+<p><i>Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn</i> was once the property of the De
+Lacie, Earl of Lincoln.&nbsp; It became an Inn of Court in
+1310.&nbsp; The fine new hall&mdash;worth seeing&mdash;was opened
+in 1845.&nbsp; The Chapel was built in 1621&ndash;3, by Inigo
+Jones.&nbsp; He also laid out the large garden in Lincoln&rsquo;s
+Inn Fields, close by, in 1620.&nbsp; Lord William Russell was
+beheaded here in 1683.&nbsp; In Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn are the
+Chancery and Equity Courts.</p>
+<p><i>Graves Inn</i>, nearly opposite the north end of Chancery
+Lane, once belonged to the Lords Gray of Wilton.&nbsp; It was
+founded in 1357.&nbsp; Most of its buildings&mdash;except its
+hall, with black oak roof&mdash;are of comparatively modern
+date.&nbsp; In Gray&rsquo;s Inn lived the great Lord Bacon, a
+tree planted by whom, in the quaint old garden of the Inn, can
+yet be seen propped up by iron stays.&nbsp; Charles the <a
+name="page92"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 92</span>First, when
+Prince Charles, was an honorary member of Gray&rsquo;s Inn, and
+Bradshaw, who tried him, was one of its benchers.</p>
+<p><i>Sergeant&rsquo;s Inn</i>, Chancery Lane, is what its name
+denotes&mdash;the Inn of the sergeants-at-law.&nbsp; <i>Sergeants
+Inn</i>, Fleet Street, is let out in chambers to barristers,
+solicitors, and the general public.&nbsp; The last remark applies
+to the other small Inns of Chancery in and about Holborn and
+Fleet Street.</p>
+<p>Till the new <i>Law</i> Courts are erected in Central Strand,
+London has no Courts of Law well built or convenient.&nbsp; The
+<i>Westminster Courts</i> are little better than wooden
+sheds.&nbsp; So are the <i>Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn Courts</i>.&nbsp;
+But they still are worth a visit.&nbsp; At the <i>Old Bailey</i>,
+near Newgate, is the <i>Central Criminal Court</i>, for the trial
+of prisoners accused of crimes committed within ten miles of St.
+Paul&rsquo;s.&nbsp; Nominally, this court is free; but
+practically, a small <i>douceur</i> is always extorted by the
+ushers for a place.&nbsp; In the other courts this practice of
+&lsquo;tipping&rsquo; is less common.&nbsp; The <i>Bankruptcy
+Court</i>, in Basinghall Street, the <i>Clerkenwell Sessions
+House</i>, the <i>County Courts</i>, and the <i>Police
+Courts</i>, are other establishments connected with the
+administration of justice; but the business of the first will
+shortly be transferred westward.</p>
+<p><b>The Record Office</b>.&mdash;Connected in some degree with
+the Courts of Law and Equity, is the <i>New Record Office</i>,
+Fetter Lane, where is deposited a vast body of unprinted
+documents belonging to the state, of priceless value, including
+the far-famed <i>Doomsday Book</i>; they having been previously
+scattered in various buildings about the metropolis.&nbsp; Apply
+to the deputy-keeper for an order to inspect any but state papers
+of later date than 1688, for which the Home Secretary&rsquo;s
+special order is requisite.</p>
+<p><b>Prisons</b>.&mdash;<i>Newgate</i>, the chief criminal
+prison for the city and county, in the Old Bailey, was a prison
+in the <i>new gate</i> of the city as early as 1218.&nbsp; Two
+centuries after it was re-built, and in the Great Fire (1666)
+burnt down.&nbsp; It was re-constructed in 1778&ndash;80; its
+interior burnt in the Gordon &lsquo;No Popery&rsquo; riots in
+1780; and its interior again re-constructed in 1857.&nbsp;
+Debtors are no longer confined here; the few who come under the
+new law&mdash;which has almost abolished imprisonment for
+debt&mdash;being sent to <i>Holloway Prison</i> <a
+name="page93"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 93</span>under the new
+law.&nbsp; Till public executions were abolished, criminals came
+out for execution in the middle of the Old Bailey, through the
+small iron door over which is suspended a grim festoon of
+fetters.&nbsp; They are now hanged privately inside the
+jail.&nbsp; The condemned cells are on the north-east side of
+Newgate.&nbsp; To view the prison, apply to the sheriff or the
+lord mayor.&nbsp; The chief debtors&rsquo; prison <i>was</i> the
+<i>Queen&rsquo;s Bench</i>, in Southwark.&nbsp; It is now a
+<i>Military Prison</i>.&nbsp; The <i>City Prison</i>, Holloway, a
+castellated structure, was built in 1855, as a substitute for
+other and overcrowded jails in London.&nbsp; Other prisons are
+the <i>House of Correction</i>, Cold Bath Fields, capable of
+holding 1,200 prisoners; the <i>House of Correction</i>, at
+Wandsworth; the <i>House of Correction</i>, Westminster;
+<i>Millbank Penitentiary</i>, near the Middlesex end of Vauxhall
+Bridge, which could, if wanted, hold 1,200 prisoners, and cost
+&pound;500,000; <i>Pentonville Model Prison</i>; <i>Female
+Prison</i>, Brixton; <i>Surrey County Jail</i>, Horsemonger Lane,
+on the top of which the infamous Mannings were hanged in 1849;
+and the <i>House of Detention</i>, Clerkenwell, which the Fenians
+tried to blow up.&nbsp; The last prison is for persons not
+convicted.</p>
+<h2>BANKS; INSURANCE OFFICES; STOCK EXCHANGE; CITY
+COMPANIES.</h2>
+<p><b>Bank of England</b>.&mdash;This large establishment is
+situated north of the Royal Exchange; the narrow thoroughfare
+between being <i>Threadneedle Street</i>, in which is the
+principal front.&nbsp; This is unquestionably the greatest bank
+in the world.&nbsp; The present structure was mostly the work of
+Sir John Soane, at various periods between 1788 and 1829.&nbsp;
+About 1,000 clerks, messengers, &amp;c., are employed here, at
+salaries varying from &pound;50 to &pound;1,200 per annum.&nbsp;
+The buildings of the Bank are low, but remarkable in
+appearance.&nbsp; In the centre is the principal entrance, which
+conducts to an inner open court, and thence to the main
+building.&nbsp; The Dividend and Transfer Offices, with which
+fund-holders are most concerned, lie in the eastern part of the
+building.&nbsp; Thus far the place is freely open to
+visitors.&nbsp; The whole buildings and courts include an area of
+about eight acres.&nbsp; The teller&rsquo;s room shews a scene of
+great activity&mdash;<a name="page94"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 94</span>clerks counting and weighing gold and
+silver, porters going to and fro, and crowds of tradesmen and
+others negotiating business at the counters.&nbsp; The other and
+more private parts of the Bank can be seen only by an order from
+a director.&nbsp; The most interesting departments are the
+bullion-office, in a vaulted chamber beneath&mdash;where there
+commonly are some 14 to 17 millions in bullion, as a
+reserve&mdash;entering from one of the many open courts; the
+treasury; the apartments in which the notes of the Bank are
+printed; and the weighing-office, where coin-balances of
+exquisite construction are used.&nbsp; In the printing department
+there is a large steam-engine, which moves printing-machines,
+plate-presses, and other mechanism&mdash;the whole being in
+beautiful order, and forming a very interesting sight.&nbsp; The
+Bank is guarded at night by its own watchmen, and a detachment of
+Foot Guards.</p>
+<p><b>Joint-Stock and Private Banks</b>.&mdash;Some of the
+handsomest modern buildings in London are those belonging to the
+Banking Companies.&nbsp; The <i>London and Westminster</i>, the
+<i>London Joint-Stock</i>, the <i>Union</i>, the <i>City</i>, the
+<i>Australian</i>, and numerous other Companies, have two or more
+establishments each, some as many as half-a-dozen&mdash;the head
+bank always being in the busy centre of trade, the
+&lsquo;City.&rsquo;&nbsp; Some of these are elegant structures;
+and all are planned with great skill in reference to interior
+arrangements.&nbsp; The private bankers, such as Glyn, Barclays,
+Lubbocks, Coutts, &amp;c., rival the companies in the
+architectural character of their banks; and some of their
+establishments, such as Child&rsquo;s, near Temple Bar, are
+curious old places.&nbsp; Many have lately been rebuilt in a
+substantial and handsome style.</p>
+<p><b>Insurance Offices</b>.&mdash;These form another extensive
+group, which has conduced much to the improved street appearance
+of modern London.&nbsp; All the best conducted Life and Fire
+Insurance Companies are wealthy; and they have devoted part of
+their wealth to the construction of commodious and often elegant
+offices.&nbsp; The <i>County</i>, the <i>Royal Exchange</i>, the
+<i>Sun</i>, the <i>Ph&oelig;nix</i>, the <i>Amicable</i>, the
+<i>Equitable</i>, the <i>Imperial</i>, are among the most noted
+of these insurance offices.&nbsp; The chief buildings are within
+a small circle, of which the Royal Exchange is the centre;
+another group is about <a name="page95"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 95</span>Fleet Street and Blackfriars; and a
+western group lies in and near the Regent Street line.</p>
+<p><b>Stock Exchange</b>.&mdash;This building, of which scarcely
+anything can be seen on the outside, lies up a paved passage
+called Capel Court, in Bartholomew Lane, on the east side of the
+Bank of England.&nbsp; Dealers and brokers in the public funds,
+and in all kinds of joint-stock shares and debentures, meet and
+transact business here.&nbsp; They buy and sell, not only for
+themselves, but for the public generally; and the amount of
+business transacted every day is enormous.&nbsp; The
+establishment is maintained by about 900 members, who pay
+&pound;10 a-year each.&nbsp; They endeavour to enforce strict
+honesty in each other&rsquo;s dealings; but they sedulously
+refuse to allow a stranger even to pass the threshold of their
+Temple of Wealth.</p>
+<p><b>Various Commercial Buildings</b>.&mdash;A stranger has only
+to look at a detailed map or a directory, to see how numerous are
+the buildings, especially in the city, applied in various ways to
+commerce and trading on a large scale.&nbsp; The <i>Trinity
+House</i> on <i>Tower Hill</i>; the chambers of the building that
+was once the <i>South Sea House</i>, near Leadenhall Street;
+those of the large but irregular structure called <i>Gresham
+House</i>, in Bishopsgate Street&mdash;are all worthy of a
+glance, some for their architectural character, and all for the
+importance of the work transacted in them.&nbsp; The <i>East
+India House</i>, in Leadenhall Street, has been pulled down;
+commercial chambers in great number, and let at enormous rentals,
+have been built on the site.</p>
+<p><b>City Companies</b>.&mdash;In nothing is the past history of
+the metropolis, the memory of <i>Old</i> London, kept alive in a
+more remarkable way than by the <i>City Companies</i>, or
+<i>Trading Guilds</i>, which are still very numerous.&nbsp; All
+were established with a good purpose, and all rendered service in
+their day; but at the present time few have any important duties
+to fulfil.&nbsp; The age for such things is nearly past; but the
+companies have revenues which none but themselves can touch; and
+out of these revenues many excellent charities are
+supported.&nbsp; Several of the companies have halls of great
+architectural beauty, or curious on account of their
+antiquity.&nbsp; <a name="page96"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+96</span>Twelve, from their wealth and importance, are called the
+<i>Great</i> Companies; and all of these have halls worthy of
+note.&nbsp; They are the <i>Mercers&rsquo;</i>,
+<i>Drapers&rsquo;</i>, <i>Fishmongers&rsquo;</i>,
+<i>Goldsmiths&rsquo;</i>, <i>Skinners&rsquo;</i>, <i>Merchant
+Taylors&rsquo;</i>, <i>Haberdashers&rsquo;</i>,
+<i>Salters&rsquo;</i>, <i>Ironmongers&rsquo;</i>,
+<i>Vintners&rsquo;</i>, <i>Grocers&rsquo;</i>, and
+<i>Clothworkers&rsquo;</i>.&nbsp; Every year banquets are given
+in the halls of these great companies&mdash;often under such
+circumstances as to give political importance to them.&nbsp;
+<i>Mercers&rsquo; Hall</i>, on the north side of Cheapside, has a
+richly ornamental entrance.&nbsp; <i>Grocers&rsquo; Hall</i>, in
+the Poultry, is remarkable rather for the age of the company
+(more than 500 years) than for the beauty of the building; it is
+interesting to note that the Long Parliament was entertained at
+city-dinners in this hall.&nbsp; <i>Drapers&rsquo; Hall</i>, in
+Throgmorton Street, built in 1667, replaced a structure which had
+belonged to Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, in the time of Henry
+VIII., and which was destroyed by the Great Fire.&nbsp;
+<i>Fishmongers&rsquo; Hall</i>, the most majestic of the whole,
+stands at the northern end of London Bridge, on the west side; it
+was built in 1831, as part of the improvements consequent on the
+opening of New London Bridge, on a site that had been occupied by
+an older hall since the time of the Great Fire.&nbsp;
+<i>Goldsmiths&rsquo; Hall</i>, just behind the General
+Post-Office, is too closely hemmed in with other buildings to be
+seen well; it is one of Mr. Hardwick&rsquo;s best productions,
+and was finished by him in 1835, on the site of an older
+hall.&nbsp; <i>Skinners&rsquo; Hall</i>, Dowgate Hill, was built
+(like so many others of the city halls) just after the Great Fire
+in 1666; but was newly fronted in 1808.&nbsp; <i>Merchant
+Taylors&rsquo; Hall</i>, Threadneedle Street, is the largest of
+the city halls.&nbsp; It was rebuilt after the Great Fire, and
+has long been celebrated for the political banquets occasionally
+given there&mdash;this being considered the leading Tory Company,
+and the Fishmongers&rsquo; the leading Whig Company.&nbsp;
+<i>Haberdashers&rsquo; Hall</i>, near Goldsmiths&rsquo; Hall, is
+quite modern; the present building having been constructed in
+1855.&nbsp; <i>Salters&rsquo; Hall</i>, St. Swithen&rsquo;s Lane,
+was rebuilt in 1827.&nbsp; <i>Ironmongers&rsquo; Hall</i>,
+Fenchurch Street, was erected in 1748, on the site of an older
+structure; the banqueting-room was remodelled a few years ago
+with great richness.&nbsp; In 1861 this company held an
+<i>Exhibition of Art</i>, notable for the rarity and beauty of
+the objects <a name="page97"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+97</span>collected; it was the first thing of the kind organized
+among these companies, and was in all respects creditable to
+those who planned and managed it.&nbsp; <i>Vintners&rsquo;
+Hall</i>, Upper Thames Street, is small and unpretentious.&nbsp;
+<i>Clothworkers&rsquo; Hall</i>, Mincing Lane, is an elegant
+Italian Renaissance edifice, erected in 1858, from the designs of
+Mr. Angell.</p>
+<p>Among the minor halls are the <i>Apothecaries&rsquo;</i>,
+Blackfriars; <i>Stationers&rsquo;</i>, behind Ludgate Hill;
+<i>Armourers&rsquo;</i>, Coleman Street; <i>Barber
+Surgeons&rsquo;</i>, Monkwell Street, (which contains some fine
+paintings;) <i>Weavers&rsquo;</i>, Basinghall Street;
+<i>Saddlers&rsquo;</i>, Cheapside; and <i>Paper
+Stainers&rsquo;</i>, Little Trinity Lane.&nbsp; At the last-named
+hall an interesting exhibition of specimens of decorative
+painting was held in 1864.&nbsp; The city companies are about
+eighty altogether.&nbsp; Some, which tell most singularly of past
+times, and of the difference between the past and the present,
+are the <i>Cooks&rsquo;</i>, the <i>Bowyers&rsquo;</i>, the
+<i>Fletchers&rsquo;</i>, the <i>Woolmen&rsquo;s</i>, the
+<i>Scriveners&rsquo;</i>, the <i>Broderers&rsquo;</i>, the
+<i>Horners&rsquo;</i>, the <i>Loriners&rsquo;</i>, the
+<i>Spectacle Makers&rsquo;</i>, the <i>Felt Makers&rsquo;</i>,
+the <i>Patten Makers&rsquo;</i>, the <i>Parish Clerks&rsquo;</i>,
+and the <i>Fan Makers&rsquo;</i> companies.&nbsp; All these,
+except the <i>Spectacle Makers&rsquo;</i> and the <i>Parish
+Clerks&rsquo;</i>, have now no halls.&nbsp; Eight others,
+formerly existing, have become extinct.&nbsp; The only three
+which are actually trading companies at the present day are the
+<i>Goldsmiths&rsquo;</i>, the <i>Apothecaries&rsquo;</i>, and the
+<i>Stationers&rsquo;</i>.&nbsp; The Goldsmiths&rsquo; company
+assay all the gold and silver plate manufactured in the
+metropolis, stamp it with the &lsquo;Hall-mark,&rsquo; and
+collect the excise duty upon it for the Government; the
+Apothecaries&rsquo; sell medicines, and have a certain
+jurisdiction in relation to medical practice; the
+Stationers&rsquo; publish almanacs, and register all copyright
+books.</p>
+<h2>THE RIVER; DOCKS; THAMES TUNNEL; BRIDGES; PIERS.</h2>
+<p>We shall next describe certain features connected with traffic
+<i>on</i>, <i>under</i>, and <i>over</i> the Thames.</p>
+<p><b>The River and its Shipping</b>.&mdash;The Thames stream
+rises in the interior of the country, at the distance of 138
+miles above London, and enters the sea on the east coast about
+sixty miles below it.&nbsp; It comes flowing between low,
+fertile, and village-clad banks, out <a name="page98"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 98</span>of a richly ornamented country on the
+west; and, arriving at the outmost suburbs of the metropolis, it
+pursues a winding course, between banks thickly lined with
+dwelling-houses, warehouses, manufactories, and wharfs, for a
+space of several miles, its breadth being here from an eighth to
+a-third of a mile.&nbsp; The tides affect it for fifteen or
+sixteen miles above the city; but the salt water comes no farther
+than Gravesend, or perhaps Greenhithe.&nbsp; However, such is the
+volume and depth of water, that vessels of great magnitude can
+sail or steam up to London.&nbsp; Most unfortunately, the beauty
+of this noble stream is much hidden from the spectator, there
+being very few quays or promenades along its banks.&nbsp; With
+the exception of the summit of St. Paul&rsquo;s or the Monument,
+and the Custom House quay, the only good points for viewing the
+river are the bridges, which cross it at convenient distances,
+and by their length convey an accurate idea of the breadth of the
+channel.&nbsp; Formerly there were many light and fanciful boats
+for hire on the Thames; but these are now greatly superseded by
+small steamers, which convey crowds of passengers up and down the
+river.</p>
+<p>The part of the river between London Bridge and Blackwall, an
+interval of several miles, constitutes the <i>Port</i>; and here
+are constantly seen lying at anchor great numbers of
+vessels.&nbsp; The portion immediately below the bridge is called
+the <i>Pool</i>, where coal-ships are usually ranged in great
+number.&nbsp; It is curious to watch, while passing up and down
+the river, the way in which coals are transferred, by labourers
+called <i>coal-whippers</i>, from the ships into barges, in which
+they are conveyed to the wharfs of the several
+coal-merchants.&nbsp; At wharfs between the Custom House and the
+bridge lie numerous steam-vessels which ply to Greenwich,
+Woolwich, Gravesend, Margate, and other places of resort down the
+Thames; also steamers for continental ports.&nbsp; London, as has
+already been observed, possesses no line of quays on the
+river.&nbsp; The trade with the ships is carried on at wharfs
+jutting upon the water.&nbsp; The Thames is placed under strict
+police regulations with respect to trade; certain places being
+assigned to different classes of vessels, including those which
+arrive from the Tyne, Wear, and Tees with coal, and all
+coasters.&nbsp; The trade connected with the <a
+name="page99"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 99</span>Port is
+mostly carried on in the closely built part of the metropolis
+adjacent to the Thames.&nbsp; Almost the whole of this district
+consists of narrow streets, environed by warehouses and offices,
+making no external show, but in which an incalculable amount of
+trade is transacted.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p99b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Entrance West India Docks"
+title=
+"Entrance West India Docks"
+src="images/p99s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><b>The Docks</b>.&mdash;As a relief to the river, and for
+other reasons, there are several very large <i>Docks</i>.&nbsp;
+The lowest or most eastern are the <i>Victoria Docks</i>, in
+Essex, just beyond the river Lea.&nbsp; They cover an area of 200
+acres, and have been the means of introducing many improvements
+in the accommodation of shipping.&nbsp; The <i>hydraulic lift</i>
+at these docks, for raising and supporting ships during repair,
+is well worth looking at.&nbsp; Next are the <i>East India
+Docks</i>, constructed in 1806; they consist of two docks and a
+basin, covering 32 acres.&nbsp; Near these are the <i>West India
+Docks</i>, the entrances to <a name="page100"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 100</span>which are at Blackwall and
+Limehouse; in these large <i>dep&ocirc;ts</i> of shipping
+connected with the West India and other trade may at all times be
+seen some hundreds of vessels, loading or unloading in connection
+with the warehouses around.&nbsp; The largest of these docks is
+24 feet deep, 510 feet long, and 498 wide; and, with a basin,
+they cover nearly 300 acres.&nbsp; Farther up the river, and near
+the Tower, in the district called Wapping, are the <i>London
+Docks</i> and <i>St. Katharine&rsquo;s Docks</i>.&nbsp; The
+London Docks consist of one enclosure to the extent of 20 acres,
+another of smaller dimensions, a basin, and three entrances from
+the river.&nbsp; These are surrounded by warehouses for the
+reception of bonded goods, and beneath the warehouses are vaults
+for bonded liquors.&nbsp; The principal warehouse for the storing
+of tobacco in bond till it is purchased and the duties paid, is
+situated close beside a special dock called the Tobacco
+Dock.&nbsp; The Tobacco Warehouse occupies no less than five
+acres of ground, and has accommodation for 24,000 hogsheads of
+tobacco.&nbsp; The sight of this extraordinary warehouse, and of
+the Wine-Vaults, is not soon to be forgotten.&nbsp; The vaults
+are arched with brick, and extend east and west to a great
+distance, with diverging lines also of great length, the whole
+being like the streets of an underground town.&nbsp; Along the
+sides are ranged casks of wine to an amount apparently without
+limit.&nbsp; There is accommodation for 65,000 pipes.&nbsp; These
+cellars being dark, all who enter and go through them carry
+lights.&nbsp; Admission may be had by procuring an order from a
+wine-merchant to taste and examine any pipes he may have in bond:
+a cooper accompanies the visitor to pierce the casks.&nbsp;
+Besides this large vault, which principally contains port and
+sherry, there are other vaults for French wines, &amp;c.&nbsp;
+<i>St. Katharine&rsquo;s Docks</i>, between the Tower and the
+London Docks, were formed in 1828, on a site which required the
+removal of more than 1,200 houses and 13,000 inhabitants; the
+earth obtained by the excavation was employed in raising the site
+for some of the new streets and squares of Pimlico.&nbsp; There
+are twelve acres of water area, and about as much of quays and
+warehouses.&nbsp; On the south of the Thames are the
+<i>Commercial</i> and the <i>Grand Surrey Docks</i>, the great
+centre of the timber trade.&nbsp; The various docks are the
+property of <a name="page101"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+101</span>joint-stock companies, who receive rents and dues of
+various kinds for their use.</p>
+<p><b>Thames Tunnel</b>.&mdash;With the view of effecting a ready
+communication for wagons and other carriages, and
+foot-passengers, between the Surrey and Middlesex sides of the
+river, at a point where, from the constant passage of shipping,
+it would be inconvenient to rear a bridge, a <i>tunnel</i> or
+sub-river passage was designed by a joint-stock company.&nbsp;
+The idea of tunnelling under the river, by the way, was not a
+novel one.&nbsp; In 1802 a company was got up with a similar
+notion, Trevethick, the inventor of the high-pressure engine,
+being its engineer.&nbsp; It came to nought; and in 1825 Mr.
+(afterwards Sir) Marc Isambard Brunel began his tunnel, at a
+point about two miles below London Bridge, entering on the
+southern shore at Rotherhithe, and issuing at Wapping on the
+other.&nbsp; The water broke in in 1827, and again in 1828, when
+six men perished.&nbsp; After all the funds were exhausted, and
+the Government had advanced no less than &pound;246,000 by way of
+loan, the work, after many delays, was opened in 1843.&nbsp; The
+total, cost was &pound;468,000.&nbsp; The tunnel consisted of two
+archways, 1,300 feet long, the thickness of the earth being about
+15 feet between the crown of the tunnel and the river&rsquo;s
+bed.&nbsp; As a speculation&mdash;toll 1d.&mdash;it never
+paid.&nbsp; The descent was by a deep, dirty staircase; and only
+one arch was open for foot-passengers.&nbsp; But now that the
+East London Railway Company have purchased it, a wholesome change
+has come.&nbsp; Some 40 trains are now running backwards and
+forwards through it, from Wapping to Rotherhithe, and thence to
+Deptford and New Cross, and <i>vice vers&acirc;</i>.&nbsp; And
+so, at last, the once well-nigh useless scheme, which wore out
+Brunel&rsquo;s heart, has been, some twenty-two years after his
+death, made of great service to that part of London.</p>
+<p><b>The Tower Subway</b>.&mdash;In the neighbourhood of the
+Tunnel a subway has been formed, consisting of an iron tube, 7
+feet in diameter, laid below the bed of the Thames.&nbsp; It
+belongs to a Limited Liability Company.&nbsp; It was commenced in
+February, 1869, and opened for tramway traffic on 12th April,
+1870.&nbsp; Being a losing speculation, the tramway cars ceased
+to run on 7th December, <a name="page102"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 102</span>1870; but it was opened for
+foot-passengers on the 24th of that month, and it is the
+intention of the Company to continue it only as such.&nbsp; It is
+reached at each end by a spiral staircase of 96 steps.&nbsp; Its
+whole length is 1225 feet.&nbsp; A charge of &frac12;d. is made
+for each person passing through this Tunnel.&nbsp; The Tunnel is
+well lighted up with gas, and the average heat by the thermometer
+is 65 degrees.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p102b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Albert Bridge, Chelsea"
+title=
+"Albert Bridge, Chelsea"
+src="images/p102s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><b>Bridges</b>.&mdash;The communication between the northern
+and southern sections of the metropolis is maintained by means of
+various bridges.&nbsp; Excluding <i>Albert Suspension Bridge</i>,
+(between Cadogan Pier, Chelsea, and Albert Road, leading into
+Battersea Park,) commenced in 1865, and not yet open, the number
+is 14&mdash;as follow: 1.&nbsp; <i>London Bridge</i>, built by
+Rennie, and opened in 1831; it is 928 feet long, and 54 wide; it
+has 5 arches, of which the centre is 152 feet span, and cost,
+with the approaches, &pound;2,000,000.&nbsp; This is regarded as
+one of the finest granite bridges in the world.&nbsp; <a
+name="page103"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 103</span>2.&nbsp;
+<i>South-Eastern Railway Bridge</i>, to connect the London Bridge
+Station with a new terminus in Cannon Street; this bridge, having
+five lines of railway, is midway between London Bridge and the
+one next to be named.&nbsp; 3.&nbsp; <i>Southwark Bridge</i>, by
+Rennie, was opened in 1819; it is of iron, 708 feet long, with
+three magnificent arches, the centre one of 402 feet span; it was
+a toll bridge, and cost &pound;800,000.&nbsp; In 1865, it was
+made free, and remains so, by arrangement between the Company and
+the Corporation.&nbsp; 4.&nbsp; <i>Blackfriars Railway
+Bridge</i>, with four lines of rail, connects the Metropolitan
+Railway north of the Thames with the Chatham and Dover Railway on
+the south.&nbsp; 
+<a href="images/p103b.jpg">
+<img class='clearcenter' alt=
+"Blackfriars Bridge"
+title=
+"Blackfriars Bridge"
+src="images/p103s.jpg" />
+</a>5.&nbsp; <i>Old Blackfriars Bridge</i>, by Mylne, was opened
+in 1769; it consisted of 19 arches, and was 995 feet long.&nbsp;
+The foundations, however, having become decayed, the bridge was
+pulled down, and a magnificent new one, by Mr. Cubitt, built its
+place.&nbsp; A wooden bridge of remarkable construction, with a
+foot-way <i>over</i> the carriage-way, did duty for traffic till
+the opening of Mr. Cubitt&rsquo;s present structure.&nbsp; This
+was formally done by the <a name="page104"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 104</span>Queen in person, November 6,
+1869.&nbsp; The entire width of the new bridge is 75 feet, the
+foot-paths being 15 feet each, with a fine road between them, 45
+feet in breadth from kerb to kerb.&nbsp; The entire length of the
+bridge, including approaches, is 1,272 feet, and its centre arch
+has a span of 185 feet in the clear.&nbsp; It has four
+piers.&nbsp; All its iron (except the ornamental portion, which
+is of cast metal) is hammered.&nbsp; With its handsome polished
+red granite piers, Portland stone capitals, and florid Venetian
+Gothic ornamentation, light-looking yet massive iron arches,
+spandrils, and parapets, and its general <i>tout ensemble</i>,
+new Blackfriars is, bearing all things in mind, one of the
+cheapest permanent bridges thrown across the Thames.&nbsp; Its
+total cost is under &pound;400,000.&nbsp; 6.&nbsp; <i>Waterloo
+Bridge</i>, one of the most magnificent in the world, was built
+by Rennie, and was opened in 1817; it is flat from end to end,
+1,380 feet long, or 2,456 with the approaches; it consists of
+nine beautiful arches of 120 feet span, and cost
+&pound;1,000,000; a toll of one halfpenny per passenger yields a
+very poor return on this outlay.&nbsp; 7.&nbsp; <i>Hungerford
+Suspension Bridge</i> has been replaced by a fine new bridge,
+partly for foot-passengers, and partly for the Charing Cross
+extension of the South-Eastern Railway.&nbsp; 8.&nbsp; <i>Old
+Westminster Bridge</i>, opened in 1750, is now all removed, to
+make way for a beautiful new bridge of iron, with granite piers,
+built by Mr. Page, opened for traffic in 1862.&nbsp; It is about
+1,160 feet long by 85 feet wide.&nbsp; 9.&nbsp; <i>Lambeth
+Bridge</i>, a wire-rope suspension bridge of economical
+construction, from Westminster to near Lambeth Church, was opened
+in 1862.&nbsp; 10.&nbsp; <i>Vauxhall Bridge</i>, built by Walker,
+was opened in 1816; it is of iron, 798 feet long, and consists of
+nine equal arches.&nbsp; 11.&nbsp; <i>Pimlico Railway Bridge</i>,
+from Pimlico to the commencement of Battersea Park, connects the
+Victoria Station with the Brighton and other railways.&nbsp;
+12.&nbsp; <i>Chelsea Suspension Bridge</i>, very near the bridge
+last named, gives easy access from Chelsea to Battersea, and is a
+light and elegant structure.&nbsp; 13.&nbsp; <i>Battersea
+Bridge</i> is an old wooden structure, unsightly in appearance,
+inconvenient to passengers over it, and still more so to
+steamboats under it.&nbsp; 14.&nbsp; <i>West London Extension
+Railway Bridge</i>, opened in 1863, crosses the Thames from a
+point a little above <a name="page105"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 105</span>Cremorne Gardens to Battersea town;
+it is a link to connect various railways on the north of the
+river with others on the south.&nbsp; <i>Putney Bridge</i>,
+<i>Hammersmith Suspension Bridge</i>, <i>Barnes Railway
+Bridge</i>, and <i>Kew Bridge</i>, may or may not be included in
+this series, according to the acceptation of the indefinite word
+&lsquo;Metropolis.&rsquo;</p>
+<p><b>Steam-boat Piers</b>.&mdash;If you wish to go eastward of
+London Bridge, on the north side of the river, you will find
+steam-boats at London Bridge to take you to Thames Tunnel Pier,
+Limehouse, Blackwall, and North Woolwich.&nbsp; On the south
+side, at the Surrey end of London Bridge, you can take boat for
+Rotherhithe, Commercial Docks, Greenwich, Charlton, and
+Woolwich.&nbsp; If you wish to go westward from London Bridge, on
+the north side, you can take boat thence for the following
+piers:&mdash;Bridge, Paul&rsquo;s Wharf, Temple Stairs, Waterloo
+Bridge, Hungerford Bridge, Westminster Bridge, Millbank, Pimlico,
+Thames Bank, Chelsea, and Battersea; and on the south side, at
+Westminster Bridge, Lambeth Stairs, Vauxhall, Battersea Park,
+Wandsworth, Putney, Hammersmith Bridge, and Kew.&nbsp; The
+steamers make an amazing number of trips each way daily, between
+these several piers, at intervals varying with the season, and at
+fares ranging from one penny to fourpence.&nbsp; For example, the
+fare by the <i>Citizen</i> boats from London Bridge to
+Westminster is 1d.; to Pimlico, 2d.; Chelsea and Battersea,
+3d.&nbsp; If you wish to go <i>quickly</i> from Westminster
+Bridge to London Bridge, you will avoid delays at piers by
+getting one of the penny boats which run every ten minutes from
+Westminster to London Bridge, only calling at Hungerford.&nbsp;
+Steamers for Kew, in the summer, run about every half-hour from
+London Bridge, calling at intermediate up-river
+piers&mdash;return ticket, 1s.&nbsp; From Cadogan Pier, Chelsea,
+you can go to Kew for 4d.&nbsp; And on Sundays and Mondays you
+can go up as far as Richmond, if the tide allow, at half-past 10
+a.m. from Hungerford&mdash;return ticket, about 1s. 6d.&nbsp; For
+more distant journeys, such as to Erith, Gravesend, Sheerness,
+Southend, &amp;c., by excursion steam-boats.&nbsp; To Gravesend
+and back, the fare is 1s. 6d.; Sheerness and Southend and back,
+2s. 6d.&nbsp; Boats generally leave Hungerford Bridge for
+Gravesend and Erith <a name="page106"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 106</span>every half-hour up to 12, and leave
+London Bridge at 2 and half-past 4 p.m.; they leave Hungerford
+Bridge for Southend and Sheerness at various times from half-past
+8, calling at London Bridge, returning in the afternoon or early
+evening.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p106b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The Thames Embankment"
+title=
+"The Thames Embankment"
+src="images/p106s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><b>The Thames Embankment</b> is one of the noblest works in
+the metropolis.&nbsp; As long ago as 1666 Sir Christopher Wren
+advocated such a scheme.&nbsp; Till Mr. Bazalgette, the engineer
+to the Metropolitan Board of Works, (who, by the way, planned the
+main drainage,) came forward with his plans, there had been
+scores of others, all over-costly and few practicable.&nbsp; The
+work was virtually begun in 1862.&nbsp; Both south and north
+embankments are now open.&nbsp; The former (or <i>Albert
+Embankment</i>) was opened the entire length, from Westminster
+Bridge to Vauxhall, on the 1st September, 1869; the latter, (or
+<i>Victoria Embankment</i>,) from Westminster Bridge to
+Blackfriars, in the middle of July, 1870.&nbsp; What the ultimate
+cost will be of both these gigantic works it is for us here <a
+name="page107"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 107</span>impossible
+to tell.&nbsp; Already the metropolitan public hare paid for
+their new Thames boulevard &pound;1,650,000.</p>
+<p>And now&mdash;in the case of the northern embankment, for
+example&mdash;let us consider what vast difficulties have had to
+be surmounted.&nbsp; The words of an excellent authority put the
+matter very concisely as follows:&mdash;&ldquo;The river had to
+be dammed out for some thirty-eight acres&mdash;the mud had to be
+dredged out down to the London clay&mdash;the granite walls had
+to be built below low-water mark; behind these the low-level
+sewer had to be constructed.&nbsp; Over this, again, had to come
+the subway, and behind all the District Railway, which runs at an
+average of about eighteen feet below the surface.&nbsp; It is not
+known what materials were required for the railway; but what was
+used for the Embankment is known.&nbsp; It was:&mdash;Granite,
+650,000 cubic feet; brickwork, 80,000 cubic yards; concrete,
+140,000 cubic yards; timber, (for cofferdam, &amp;c.,) 500,000
+cubic feet; caissons, (for ditto,) 2,500 tons; earth filling,
+900,000 cubic feet; excavation, 144,000 cubic feet; York paving,
+90,000 superficial feet; broken granite, 50,000 yards
+superficial.&nbsp; The railway works would make these totals
+still more formidable.&nbsp; London is now the metropolis of
+engineering works, but there is no part of it in which so many
+and such varied and difficult kinds centre as in the Thames
+Embankment.&nbsp; A section of it would be a study for engineers
+for all time.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The public foot-way had been open since July, 1868.&nbsp; It
+was for the formal opening of the carriage-way that the Prince of
+Wales, on 13th July, 1870, drove from Westminster Bridge to
+Blackfriars along the Northern Embankment&rsquo;s
+carriage-way.&nbsp; This is sixty-four feet wide, and the
+foot-way on the land-side is sixteen feet wide, and that on the
+river-side is twenty feet wide.&nbsp; Along the river-side are
+planted rows of trees, which in a few years will afford an
+unbroken line of shade, doubtless.&nbsp; As the railway works
+were completed sufficiently to admit of it, this main roadway has
+been extended to the Mansion-House, by means of a new
+street&mdash;<i>Queen Victoria Street</i>&mdash;referred to in a
+former page.&nbsp; There is thus one broad, airy thoroughfare
+between the Houses of Parliament, and the West End, and the heart
+of the city.</p>
+<p><a name="page108"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 108</span>It
+will be obvious that though so much has been done, much yet
+remains to be accomplished ere the Thames Northern Embankment is
+regularly completed.&nbsp; The carriage-way, for the present, has
+only been gravelled and macadamized.&nbsp; The reason is, that in
+newly-made rotten earth its sinking down must be allowed for, for
+some time, ere it can all be paved, like London Bridge, with
+&ldquo;granite pitching.&rdquo;&nbsp; Four regular approaches
+into the Strand&mdash;by way of Villiers, Norfolk, Surrey, and
+Arundel Streets&mdash;have been made; and there are three other
+ways which go from Westminster, Whitehall, and Blackfriars;
+another is in progress from Charing Cross.</p>
+<p>Starting from the western end, the Metropolitan District
+Railway has already open, along this embankment, five stations,
+called Westminster, Charing Cross, Temple, Blackfriars, and
+Mansion House.</p>
+<p>The wall of the Thames Northern Embankment just alluded to is,
+to quote once more, &ldquo;constructed generally of brickwork
+faced with granite, and is carried down to a depth of 32&frac12;
+feet below Trinity high-water mark, the foundation being of
+Portland cement concrete.&nbsp; The level of the roadway
+generally is four feet above Trinity high-water mark, except at
+the two extremities, where it rises to Westminster and
+Blackfriars Bridges to an extreme height of about 20 feet above
+high-water.&nbsp; The rising ground for both these approaches is
+retained by a granite faced wall, similar in character to the
+general Embankment wall.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;The face of the Embankment forms a graceful curve,
+having a plane face to about mean high-water level, and being
+ornamented above that level with mouldings, which are stopped at
+intervals of about seventy feet with plain blocks of granite,
+intended to carry lamp standards of cast-iron, and relieved on
+the river face by bronze lions&rsquo; heads carrying mooring
+rings.&nbsp; The uniform line of the Embankment is broken at
+intervals by massive piers of granite, flanking recesses for
+pontoons or landing stages for steamboats, and at other places by
+stairs projecting into the river, and intended as landing-piers
+for small craft.&nbsp; The steamboat piers occur at Westminster,
+Charing Cross, and Waterloo Bridges; and those for boats midway
+between Westminster and Charing Cross, and between Charing Cross
+and Waterloo Bridge; and both are combined <a
+name="page109"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 109</span>opposite
+Essex Street.&nbsp; It is intended eventually to surmount the
+several blocks and pedestals with groups of statuary.&rdquo;</p>
+<h2>FOOD SUPPLY; MARKETS; BAZAARS; SHOPS.</h2>
+<p><b>Food Supply</b>.&mdash;The <i>Quarterly Review</i>, on one
+occasion, illustrated, in a whimsical way, the vastness of the
+system.&nbsp; The following is described as the supply of meat,
+poultry, bread, and beer, for one year:&mdash;72 miles of oxen,
+10 abreast; 120 miles of sheep, do.; 7 miles of calves, do.; 9
+miles of pigs, do.; 50 acres of poultry, close together; 20 miles
+of hares and rabbits, 100 abreast; a pyramid of loaves of bread,
+600 feet square, and thrice the height of St. Paul&rsquo;s; 1000
+columns of hogsheads of beer, each 1 mile high.</p>
+<p><b>Water and Coal Supply</b>.&mdash;The <i>water</i> used in
+the metropolis is chiefly supplied by the Thames, and by an
+artificial channel called the <i>New River</i>, which enters on
+the north side of the metropolis.&nbsp; The water is naturally
+good and soft.&nbsp; The spots at which it is raised from the
+Thames used to be within the bounds of the metropolis, at no
+great distance from the mouths of common sewers; but it is now
+obtained from parts of the river much higher up, and undergoes a
+very extensive filtration.&nbsp; Nine companies are concerned in
+the supply of water,&mdash;viz., the <i>New River</i>, <i>East
+London</i>, <i>Southwark and Vauxhall</i>, <i>West Middlesex</i>,
+<i>Lambeth</i>, <i>Chelsea</i>, <i>Grand Junction</i>,
+<i>Kent</i>, and <i>Hampstead Water Companies</i>.&nbsp; Some of
+the works, within the last few years, constructed by these
+companies, up the river, are very fine.&nbsp; Returns furnished
+to the Registrar-General by the London Water Companies shewed
+that the average daily supply of water for all purposes to the
+London population, during the month of May, 1870, was 107,540,811
+gallons, of which it is estimated the supply for domestic
+purposes amounted to about 88,381,700 gallons, or 26 gallons per
+day per head of population.&nbsp; The metropolis is supplied with
+<i>coal</i> principally from the neighbourhood of Newcastle, but
+partly also from certain inland counties; the import from the
+latter being by railway.&nbsp; Newcastle coal is preferred.&nbsp;
+It arrives in vessels devoted exclusively to the trade; and so
+many and so excessive are the duties and profits affecting the
+article, that a ton of coal, which can be <a
+name="page110"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 110</span>purchased
+at Newcastle for 6s. or 7s., costs, to a consumer in London, from
+22s. to 27s.&nbsp; The quantity of coal brought to London
+annually much exceeds 5,000,000 tons, of which considerably more
+than 2,000,000 come by railway.&nbsp; The wholesale dealings in
+this commodity are managed chiefly at the <i>Coal Exchange</i>, a
+remarkable building just opposite Billingsgate.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p110b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Smithfield Market"
+title=
+"Smithfield Market"
+src="images/p110s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><b>Markets</b>.&mdash;London contains nearly 40 markets for
+cattle, meat, corn, coal, hay, vegetables, fish, and other
+principal articles of consumption.&nbsp; The meat-markets are of
+various kinds&mdash;one for live animals, others for carcases in
+bulk, and others for the retail of meat; some, also, are for
+pork, and others principally for fowls.&nbsp; The <i>New Cattle
+Market</i>, Copenhagen Fields, near Pentonville, built, in 1854,
+to replace old <i>Smithfield Market</i>, covers nearly 30 acres,
+and, with outbuildings, slaughterhouses, &amp;c., cost the City
+Corporation about &pound;400,000.&nbsp; It is the finest live
+stock market in the kingdom.&nbsp; The present <i>Smithfield
+Market</i>, near the Holborn Viaduct, for dead meat and poultry,
+is a splendid building, 625 feet <a name="page111"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 111</span>long, 240 feet wide, and 30 feet
+high.&nbsp; Wide roads on its north, east, and west sides,
+accommodate its special traffic.&nbsp; A carriage road runs right
+through it from north to south, with spacious and well
+ventilating avenues radiating from it.&nbsp; There are in this
+market no less than 100,000 feet of available space.&nbsp; It has
+cost upwards of &pound;180,000 already.&nbsp; There are
+underground communication with several railways, to bring in,
+right under the market, meat and poultry from the country, and
+meat from the slaughterhouses of the Copenhagen Fields Cattle
+Market.&nbsp; <i>Newgate Market</i>, as a market, no longer
+exists.&nbsp; <i>Leadenhall Market</i> is a <i>dep&ocirc;t</i>
+for meat and poultry.&nbsp; At Whitechapel there is a meat market
+also.&nbsp; The minor meat markets require no special note
+here.&nbsp; <i>Billingsgate</i>, the principal fish market of
+London, near the Custom House, was greatly extended and improved
+in 1849.&nbsp; It is well worth visiting any morning throughout
+the year, save Sunday, at five o&rsquo;clock.&nbsp; Ladies,
+however, will not care to encounter its noise, bustle, and
+unsavoury odours.&nbsp; The fish arriving in steamers, smacks,
+and boats from the coast or more distant seas, are consigned to
+salesmen who, during the early market hours, deal extensively
+with the retail fishmongers from all parts of London.&nbsp; The
+inferior fish are bought by the costermongers, or
+street-dealers.&nbsp; When particular fish are in a prime state,
+or very scarce, there are wealthy persons who will pay enormously
+for the rarity; hence a struggle between the boats to reach the
+market early.&nbsp; At times, so many boats come laden with the
+same kind of fish as to produce a glut; and instead of being sold
+at a high price, as is usually the case, the fish are then
+retailed for a mere trifle.&nbsp; Fish is now brought largely to
+London by railway, from various ports on the east and south
+coasts.&nbsp; The yearly sale of fish at Billingsgate has been
+estimated at so high a sum as &pound;2,000,000.</p>
+<p><i>Covent Garden Market</i> (connected by Southampton Street
+with the Strand) is the great vegetable, fruit, and flower
+market.&nbsp; This spot, which is exceedingly central to the
+metropolis, was once the garden to the abbey and convent of
+Westminster: hence the name <i>Convent</i> or
+<i>Covent</i>.&nbsp; At the suppression of the religious houses
+in Henry VIII.&rsquo;s reign, it devolved to the Crown.&nbsp;
+Edward VI. gave <a name="page112"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+112</span>it to the Duke of Somerset; on his attainder it was
+granted to the Earl of Bedford; and in the Russell family it has
+since remained.&nbsp; From a design of Inigo Jones, it was
+intended to have surrounded it with a colonnade; but the north
+and a part of the east sides only were completed.&nbsp; The fruit
+and vegetable markets were rebuilt in 1829&ndash;30.&nbsp; The
+west side is occupied by the parish church of St. Paul&rsquo;s,
+noticeable for its massive roof and portico.&nbsp; Butler, author
+of <i>Hudibras</i>, lies in its graveyard, without a stone to
+mark the spot.&nbsp; In 1721, however, a cenotaph was erected in
+his honour in Westminster Abbey.&nbsp; The election of members to
+serve in Parliament for the city of Westminster was held in front
+of this church: the hustings for receiving the votes being
+temporary buildings.&nbsp; The south side is occupied by a row of
+brick dwellings.&nbsp; Within the square thus enclosed fruit and
+vegetables of the best quality are exposed for sale.&nbsp; A
+large paved space surrounding the interior square is occupied by
+the market-gardeners, who, as early as four or five in the
+morning, have carted the produce of their grounds, and wait to
+dispose of it to dealers in fruit and vegetables residing in
+different parts of London; any remainder is sold to persons who
+have standings in the market, and they retail it to such
+individuals as choose to attend to purchase in smaller
+quantities.&nbsp; Within this paved space rows of shops are
+conveniently arranged for the display of the choicest fruits of
+the season: the productions of the forcing-house, and the results
+of horticultural skill, appear in all their beauty.&nbsp; There
+are also conservatories, in which every beauty of the
+flower-garden may be obtained, from the rare exotic to the
+simplest native flower.&nbsp; The <i>Floral Hall</i>, close to
+Covent Garden Opera House, has an entrance from the north-east
+corner of the market, to which it is a sort of appendage as a
+Flower Market.&nbsp; Balls, concerts, &amp;c., are occasionally
+given here.&nbsp; The <i>Farringdon</i>, <i>Borough</i>,
+<i>Portman</i>, <i>Spitalfields</i>, and other vegetable markets,
+are small imitations of that at Covent Garden.</p>
+<p>The cultivation of vegetables in the open ground within ten
+miles surrounding London, has arrived at great perfection; and so
+certain is the demand, that the whole is regularly conveyed by
+land or water to the metropolis; insomuch that persons residing
+in <a name="page113"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 113</span>the
+neighbourhood of those well-arranged gardens are really less
+readily accommodated than the inhabitants of the metropolis, and
+have no supply of vegetables but such as have already been sent
+to London, and thence back to retailers in their own
+locality.&nbsp; There are also large supplies of foreign fruit
+and vegetables.&nbsp; The annual produce of the garden-grounds
+cultivated to supply the London markets with fruit and vegetables
+has been estimated at the enormous weight of 360,000 tons, or
+1,000 tons <i>per day</i>.</p>
+<p><b>Corn</b>.&mdash;The greater part of the <i>corn</i> used
+for bread and other purposes in the metropolis is sold by
+corn-factors at the <i>Corn Exchange</i>, Mark Lane; but the corn
+itself is not taken to that place.&nbsp; Enormous quantities of
+flour are also brought in, ground at mills in the country and in
+foreign parts.</p>
+<p><b>Malt liquors</b>.&mdash;The <i>beer</i> and <i>ale</i>
+consumed in the metropolis is, of course, vast in quantity,
+though there are no means of determining the amount.&nbsp; If, by
+a letter of introduction, a stranger could obtain admission to
+Barclay &amp; Perkins&rsquo;s or Truman &amp; Hanbury&rsquo;s
+breweries, he would there see vessels and operations astonishing
+for their magnitude&mdash;bins that are filled with 2,000
+quarters of malt every week; brewing-rooms nearly as large as
+Westminster Hall; fermenting vessels holding 1,500 barrels each;
+a beer-tank large enough to float an up-river steamer; vats
+containing 100,000 gallons each; and 60,000 casks, with 200
+horses to convey them in drays to the taverns of the
+metropolis!</p>
+<p><b>Shops and Bazaars</b>.&mdash;The better-class London retail
+shops, for wealth, variety, and vast number, are among the
+greatest wonders of the place.&nbsp; They speak for
+themselves.&nbsp; The wholesale establishments with which New
+Cannon Street, Wood Street, and the south side of St.
+Paul&rsquo;s Churchyard&mdash;noticeably the gigantic warehouses
+of Messrs. Cook &amp; Co.&mdash;abound, if, by a letter of
+introduction, an order of admission can be obtained, would strike
+a stranger&mdash;in spite of less external display, save as
+regards size&mdash;as more wonderful still, so enormous is the
+amount of their business operations, and of capital incoming and
+outgoing.</p>
+<p>There are about 7,400 streets, lanes, rows, &amp;c., in the
+metropolis.&nbsp; From Charing Cross, within a six miles radius,
+there are something <a name="page114"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 114</span>over 2,600 miles of streets.&nbsp;
+As regards trades generally, it is hard even to get anything like
+an approximate notion of their numbers.&nbsp; As the <i>Post
+Office London Directory</i> says, new trades are being added to
+the list every year.&nbsp; Thus, we are told, 57 new trades were
+so added in the year 1870.&nbsp; But to specify a few, there are,
+say, about 130,000 shopkeepers, or owners of commercial
+establishments, who carry on more than 2,500 different
+trades.&nbsp; Loss of much of London&rsquo;s shipping trade,
+&amp;c., has indeed driven hundreds of emigrants of late from our
+east-end waterside neighbourhoods.&nbsp; But London has gone on
+growing all the same, and trade with it.&nbsp; Among these trades
+are, without counting purely wholesale dealers, about 2,847
+grocers and tea dealers, 2,087 butchers, 2,461 bakers, 1,508
+dairymen, &amp;c., 2,370 greengrocers and fruiterers, more than
+595 retail fishmongers, 891 cheesemongers, (this computation does
+not include the small shops in poor neighbourhoods which sell
+almost everything,) 2,755 tailors, (not including about 500
+old-clothesmen, wardrobe-dealers, &amp;c.,) about 3,347
+bootmakers, about 450 hatters, and so forth.&nbsp; All these are
+master tradesmen or shopkeepers, irrespective of workmen,
+foremen, shopmen, clerks, porters, apprentices, and
+families.&nbsp; We may add, that in the pages of that very large
+book the <i>London Post Office Directory</i>, no less than 52
+columns and over are occupied by the long list of London
+publicans.</p>
+<p>The principal Bazaars of London are the <i>Soho</i>, <i>London
+Crystal Palace</i>, (Oxford Street,) and <i>Baker Street</i>
+bazaars, to which should be added the <i>Burlington Arcade</i>,
+Piccadilly, and the <i>Lowther Arcade</i>, (famous for cheap
+toys,) in the Strand.&nbsp; The once celebrated <i>Pantheon</i>,
+in Oxford Street, is now a wine merchant&rsquo;s stores.&nbsp;
+Many small bazaars exist.</p>
+<p>The Bazaar system of oriental countries, in which all the
+dealers in one kind of commodity are met with in one place, is
+not observable in London; yet a stranger may usefully bear in
+mind that, probably for the convenience both of buyers and
+sellers, an approach to the system is made.&nbsp; For instance,
+<i>coachmakers</i> congregate in considerable number in Long Acre
+and Great Queen Street; <i>watchmakers</i> and <i>jewellers</i>,
+in Clerkenwell; <i>tanners</i> and <a name="page115"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 115</span><i>leather-dressers</i>, in
+Bermondsey; <i>bird</i> and <i>bird-cage sellers</i>, in Seven
+Dials; <i>statuaries</i>, in the Euston Road;
+<i>sugar-refiners</i>, in and near Whitechapel;
+<i>furniture-dealers</i>, in Tottenham Court Road;
+<i>hat-makers</i>, in Bermondsey and Southwark; <i>dentists</i>,
+about St. Martin&rsquo;s Lane; &amp;c.&nbsp; There is one bazaar,
+if so we may term it, of a very remarkable
+character&mdash;namely, <i>Paternoster Row</i>.&nbsp; This street
+is a continuation of Cheapside, but is not used much as a
+thoroughfare, though it communicates by transverse alleys or
+courts with St. Paul&rsquo;s Churchyard, and, at its western
+extremity, by means of Ave-Maria Lane, leads into Ludgate
+Hill.&nbsp; Paternoster Row, or &lsquo;the Row,&rsquo; as it is
+familiarly termed, is a dull street, only wide enough at certain
+points to permit two vehicles to pass each other, with a narrow
+pavement on each side.&nbsp; The houses are tall and sombre in
+their aspect, and the shops below have a dead look, in comparison
+with those in the more animated streets.&nbsp; But the deadness
+is all on the outside.&nbsp; For a considerable period this
+street has been the head-quarters of booksellers and publishers,
+who, till the present day, continue in such numbers as to leave
+little room for other tradesmen&mdash;transacting business in the
+book-trade to a prodigious amount.&nbsp; At the western extremity
+of Paternoster Row a passage leads from Amen Corner to
+Stationers&rsquo; Hall Court, in which is situated
+Stationers&rsquo; Hall, and also several publishing-houses.</p>
+<p><b>Mudie&rsquo;s Library</b>.&mdash;While on the subject of
+books, we may remind the visitor that the most remarkable
+<i>lending library</i> in the world is situated in London.&nbsp;
+<i>Mudie&rsquo;s</i>, at the corner of New Oxford Street and
+Museum Street, affords a striking example of what the energy of
+one man can accomplish.&nbsp; At this vast establishment the
+volumes are reckoned by hundreds of thousands; and the
+circulation of them, on easy terms, extends to every part of the
+kingdom.&nbsp; The chief portion of the building is a lofty
+central gallery, of considerable beauty.</p>
+<h2><a name="page116"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+116</span>CLUBS; HOTELS; INNS; CHOP-HOUSES; TAVERNS;
+COFFEE-HOUSES; COFFEE-SHOPS.</h2>
+<p><b>Club-houses</b>.&mdash;During the last forty or fifty years
+new habits amongst the upper classes have led to the
+establishment of a variety of <i>Club-houses</i>&mdash;places of
+resort unknown to our ancestors.&nbsp; There are at present,
+including many fifth-rate clubs, about 84 clubs in London.&nbsp;
+A London club-house is either the property of a private person,
+who engages to furnish subscribers with certain accommodation, on
+paying a fixed sum as entrance-money, and a specified annual
+subscription; or else it belongs to a society of gentlemen who
+associate for the purpose.&nbsp; Of the first class, the most
+noted are <i>Brookes&rsquo;s</i> and <i>White&rsquo;s</i>, both
+situated in St. James&rsquo;s Street, The second class of clubs
+is most numerous: the principal among them being the
+<i>Carlton</i>, <i>Junior Carlton</i>, <i>Reform</i>,
+<i>Athen&aelig;um</i>, <i>Oriental</i>, <i>Conservative</i>,
+<i>Travellers&rsquo;</i>, <i>United University</i>, <i>Oxford and
+Cambridge</i>, <i>Army and Navy</i>, <i>Guards&rsquo;</i>,
+<i>United Service</i>, <i>Junior United Service</i>,
+<i>Union</i>, <i>Arthur&rsquo;s</i>, and <i>Windham</i>
+clubs.&nbsp; The houses belonging to these clubs respectively are
+among the finest at the West-end of London, and may easily be
+distinguished in and about Pall Mall, St. James&rsquo;s Street,
+and Waterloo Place.&nbsp; No member sleeps at his club; the
+accommodation extends to furnishing all kinds of refreshments,
+the use of a library, and an ample supply of newspapers and
+periodicals in the reading-room.&nbsp; The real object of these
+institutions is to furnish a place of resort for a select number
+of gentlemen, on what are really moderate terms.&nbsp; The
+Athen&aelig;um Club, (near the York Column,) which consists
+chiefly of scientific and literary men, is one of the most
+important.&nbsp; It has 1,200 members, each of whom pays thirty
+guineas entrance-money, and seven guineas yearly
+subscription.&nbsp; As in all other clubs, members are admitted
+only by ballot.&nbsp; The expense of the house in building was
+&pound;35,000, and &pound;5,000 for furnishing; the plate, linen,
+and glass cost &pound;2,500; library, &pound;5,000; and the stock
+of wine in cellar is usually worth about &pound;4,000.&nbsp; The
+other principal clubs vary from nine to thirty guineas
+entrance-fee, from six to eleven guineas annual subscription, and
+from 600 to 1,500 members.&nbsp; <a name="page117"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 117</span>During part of the life of the late
+M. Soyer, the <i>kitchen</i> of the Reform Club-house was one of
+the sights of the West-end.&nbsp; The <i>Garrick Club</i>, in
+Garrick Street, W.C., consists chiefly of theatrical and literary
+men.&nbsp; The same remark applies to the <i>Arundel</i>, in
+Salisbury Street, Strand.&nbsp; The <i>Whittington Club</i>, in
+the Strand, was the humblest of its class, and bore little
+resemblance to the others; it was rather a literary and
+scientific institution, with a refreshment department added.</p>
+<p><b>The Albany</b>.&mdash;The <i>Albany</i> consists of a
+series of chambers, or suites of apartments, intended for
+&lsquo;West-end bachelors.&rsquo;&nbsp; No person carrying on a
+trade or commercial occupation is allowed to live within its
+limits.&nbsp; There are two entrances, one in Piccadilly and one
+in Burlington Gardens.&nbsp; The chambers are placed in eleven
+groups, denoted by letters of the alphabet, A to L.&nbsp; There
+are about 60 suites of apartments, many of which are occupied by
+peers, members of parliament, honourables and right honourables,
+and naval and military officers.&nbsp; Canning, Byron, and
+Macaulay, are named amongst those who have lived in this singular
+place.</p>
+<p><b>Hotels and Inns</b>.&mdash;It has been conjectured (though
+probably in excess of the truth) that at all times there are
+150,000 strangers residing for a few days only in the metropolis;
+and to accommodate this numerous transient population, there is a
+vast number of lodging and boarding-houses, hotels, and other
+places of accommodation.&nbsp; There are upwards of 500
+better-class hotels, inns, and taverns.&nbsp; There are about 120
+private hotels not licensed, and therefore do not keep exciseable
+liquors for sale.&nbsp; There are about 5,200 public-houses
+licensed to sell wines, spirits, and malt liquors.&nbsp; There
+are more than 1,964 beer-shops, where malt liquors only are
+sold.</p>
+<p>The fashionable hotels are situated west of Charing
+Cross&mdash;as, for instance, <i>Claridge&rsquo;s</i>, Brook
+Street, Grosvenor Square; <i>Fenton&rsquo;s</i>, St.
+James&rsquo;s Street; <i>Limmer&rsquo;s</i>, George Street,
+Hanover Square; the <i>Clarendon</i>, in New Bond Street; the
+<i>Burlington</i>, in Old Burlington Street;
+<i>Grillon&rsquo;s</i>, in Albemarle Street; <i>Long&rsquo;s</i>,
+in Bond Street; the <i>Palace</i>, Pimlico;
+<i>Wright&rsquo;s</i>, Dover Street; <i>Morley&rsquo;s</i>,
+Trafalgar Square; <i>Hatchett&rsquo;s</i>, Dover Street;
+<i>Maurigy&rsquo;s</i>, Regent Street; <a
+name="page118"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 118</span><i>Marshall
+Thompson&rsquo;s</i>, Cavendish Square; the <i>Albemarle</i>,
+Albemarle Street; the <i>Hyde Park</i>, near the Marble Arch; the
+<i>Alexandra</i>, Hyde Park Corner; &amp;c.&nbsp; In and about
+Covent Garden there are several good hotels for single gentlemen;
+among others, the <i>Cavendish</i>, the <i>Bedford</i>, the
+<i>New</i> and <i>Old Hummums</i>, and the
+<i>Tavistock</i>.&nbsp; One or two others, in Bridge Street,
+Blackfriars, are excellent hotels.&nbsp; Foreign hotels of a
+medium class are numerous in and about Leicester Square.&nbsp;
+Another class of hotels or inns are those from which
+stage-coaches at one time ran, and which were resorted to by
+commercial and other gentlemen; for example, the <i>Golden
+Cross</i>, (now renovated and extended,) near Charing Cross; the
+<i>White Horse Cellar</i>, Piccadilly; the <i>Bell and Crown</i>,
+Holborn; the <i>Castle and Falcon</i>, Aldersgate Street; and the
+<i>Bull-in-Mouth</i>, (now called the <i>Queen&rsquo;s</i>,)
+opposite the General Post Office, in St.
+Martin&rsquo;s-le-Grand.&nbsp; These have all become comfortable
+middle-class hotels, with railway booking-offices attached; but
+the fall of the stage-coach trade has lessened their importance
+to a great extent.&nbsp; To these we may add certain large inn
+and tavern establishments at other parts of the town&mdash;such
+as the <i>Bridge House Hotel</i>, at London Bridge; the
+<i>Angel</i>, at Islington; and the <i>Elephant and Castle</i>,
+Newington Causeway.</p>
+<p>The almost universal defect of the older class of hotels in
+London is, that they are too often private dwellings extemporized
+for purposes of public accommodation&mdash;not buildings erected
+with the distinct object for which they are used.&nbsp; Hence the
+London hotels, generally, are confined and awkward in their
+arrangements&mdash;a huddle of apartments on different levels,
+narrow passages, and the offensive odour of cookery being
+common.&nbsp; Rarely is there anything to parallel the larger
+hotels of New York, or the <i>Hotel du Louvre</i> at Paris.&nbsp;
+The nearest approach to these foreign establishments is found in
+certain hotels adjoining the railway termini, of recent
+construction.&nbsp; These are the <i>Euston</i> and <i>Victoria
+Hotels</i>, near Euston terminus; the <i>Great Northern
+Hotel</i>, adjoining the King&rsquo;s Cross terminus; the
+<i>Great Western Hotel</i>, at the Paddington <i>terminus</i>;
+<i>the Grosvenor Hotel</i>, at the Pimlico terminus; the <a
+name="page119"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 119</span><i>London
+Bridge Terminus Hotel</i>, adjoining the Brighton Railway
+terminus; the fine <i>South-Eastern Railway Hotel</i>, Cannon
+Street; the <i>Westminster Palace Hotel</i>, Victoria Street,
+Westminster; the <i>Midland</i>, at St. Pancras; and the
+<i>Charing Cross Railway Hotel</i>.&nbsp; At these new and
+extensive hotels the accommodation is on a better footing than in
+the older and generally small houses.&nbsp; But notwithstanding
+these additions, it is indisputable that the amount of hotel
+accommodation is still meagre and defective.&nbsp; The want of
+large good hotels in central situations, to give accommodation at
+moderate charges, remains one of the conspicuous deficiencies of
+the metropolis.&nbsp; The <i>Langham</i>, however, in Portland
+Place, is an excellent hotel.&nbsp; So is the <i>Salisbury
+Hotel</i>, Salisbury Square, Fleet Street.&nbsp; The idea of
+building a large hotel in the Strand, near St. Mary&rsquo;s
+Church, was, by-the-by, abandoned in favour of the new <i>Globe
+Theatre</i>; while that handsome building, the <i>Inns of Court
+Hotel</i>, in Holborn and Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn Fields, has never
+yet been properly finished, and is now (1873) a failure.</p>
+<p>In and about London, we may mention, are sundry extensive and
+highly-respectable taverns, which, though principally designed
+for accommodating large dining and other festive gatherings,
+lodge gentlemen with every comfort.&nbsp; Among these may be
+mentioned the <i>London Tavern</i>; the <i>Albion</i>, in
+Aldersgate Street; several in Fleet Street, near Blackfriars
+Bridge; the <i>Freemasons&rsquo; Tavern</i>, Great Queen Street,
+Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn Fields; and so forth.&nbsp; There is,
+besides, a class of taverns whose chief business is supplying
+dinners and slight refreshments, also the accommodation of
+newspapers, and which are resorted to chiefly by commercial
+men.&nbsp; Each of these has a distinct character.&nbsp;
+<i>Garraway&rsquo;s</i> and <i>Lloyd&rsquo;s</i>, at the Royal
+Exchange, were once coffee-houses, but now are associated with
+marine intelligence, stock-trading, and auctions; and in
+Cornhill, opposite, the <i>North and South American
+Coffee-house</i> supplies American newspapers; and here also are
+to be seen the captains of vessels who are preparing to sail to
+different ports in the western continent and islands.&nbsp; At
+the <i>Jerusalem</i> and <i>East India Coffee-house</i>,
+Cowper&rsquo;s Court, Cornhill, information relating to East
+India shipping and captains may be obtained.&nbsp;
+<i>Peele&rsquo;s </i><a name="page120"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 120</span><i>Coffee-house</i>, in Fleet
+Street, is celebrated for keeping files of newspapers, which may
+be consulted; this accommodation, as respects London papers, may
+also be had at some other places.&nbsp; Other economical
+Reading-Rooms are noticed in the <i>Appendix</i>.</p>
+<p><b>Chop-houses</b>, <b>Coffee-shops</b>, <b>and
+Dining-rooms</b>.&mdash;The next class of houses of this nature
+comprises <i>Chop-houses</i>, but also doing the business of
+taverns, and resorted to chiefly by business-men&mdash;as the
+<i>Chapter</i>, in Paternoster Row; the <i>Mitre</i>, the
+<i>Cock</i>, the <i>Cheshire Cheese</i>, and the <i>Rainbow</i>,
+in Fleet Street.&nbsp; Many such houses are to be met with near
+the Bank of England, in Cheapside, Bucklersbury, Threadneedle
+Street, Bishopsgate Street, and the alleys turning out of
+Cornhill.&nbsp; The <i>Ship and Turtle</i>, in Leadenhall Street,
+was a famous turtle-house; and others are noted for some
+specialty.</p>
+<p>London contains a very numerous class of <i>Coffee-shops</i>,
+of a much more humble, though perhaps more useful nature, at
+which coffee, cocoa, tea, bread and butter, toast, chops and
+steaks, bacon and eggs, and cold meat, may be obtained at very
+moderate prices; a few pence will purchase a morning or evening
+meal at such places; and many working-men dine there also.&nbsp;
+There are about 1,500 houses of this class in London.&nbsp; There
+is another class of <i>Eating-houses</i> or <i>Dining-rooms</i>,
+resorted to for dinners by large numbers of persons.&nbsp;
+<i>Lake&rsquo;s</i>, <i>His Lordship&rsquo;s Larder</i>, and one
+or two others, in Cheapside; <i>Izant&rsquo;s</i>, and several
+others in and near Bucklersbury; the <i>Chancery
+Dining-rooms</i>, in Chancery Lane; the <i>Fish Ordinary</i> at
+the <i>Three Tuns</i> in Billingsgate, and at
+<i>Simpson&rsquo;s</i> in Cheapside; and several dining-rooms in
+and near the Haymarket and Rupert Street&mdash;may be reckoned
+among the number.&nbsp; A good but simple dinner may be had at
+these houses for from 1s. 6d. to 2s. 6d.&nbsp; At the <i>St.
+James&rsquo;s Hall Restaurant</i>, in Regent Street;
+<i>Blanchard&rsquo;s</i>, Regent Street, corner of Burlington
+Street; the <i>Albion</i>, Russell Street, near Drury Lane
+Theatre; the <i>London</i>, Fleet Street, nearly opposite the
+Inner Temple gate; <i>Simpson&rsquo;s</i>, in the Strand,
+opposite Exeter Hall; and last, but by no means least, at
+<i>Speirs and Pond&rsquo;s Restaurant</i>, at Ludgate Station of
+the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway; a very fair dinner may be
+had, at prices varying <a name="page121"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 121</span>from, say, a minimum of half-a-crown
+up to a greater cost, according to the state of the diner&rsquo;s
+tastes and finances.&nbsp; At the <i>Gaiety Restaurant</i>,
+adjoining the Gaiety Theatre, a good dinner may be had.&nbsp; At
+Cremorne Gardens, too, there used to be a good <i>table
+d&rsquo;h&ocirc;te</i> for 2s. 6d.</p>
+<p><b>Temperance Hotels</b>.&mdash;There are several good houses
+of this character.&nbsp; Among others may be named <i>The
+Waverley</i>, King Street, Cheapside; <i>Angus&rsquo;s</i>,
+Bridge Street, Blackfriars; <i>Anderson&rsquo;s</i>, Theobald
+Road; and <i>Ling&rsquo;s</i>, South Street, Finsbury.</p>
+<h2>THEATRES, CONCERTS, AND OTHER PLACES OF AMUSEMENT.</h2>
+<p><b>Theatres</b>.&mdash;There are altogether in London a large
+number.&nbsp; Of these the following are the
+principal:&mdash;<i>Her Majesty&rsquo;s Theatre</i>, on the
+western side of the Haymarket, is the original of the two Italian
+Opera Houses in London; it was built in 1790, on the site of an
+older theatre, burnt down in 1867, and re-built in 1869.&nbsp; It
+is occasionally unoccupied.&nbsp; The freehold of some of the
+boxes has been sold for as much as &pound;8,000 each.&nbsp; The
+Opera Season is generally from March to August; but the main
+attractions and the largest audiences are from May to July.&nbsp;
+The <i>Royal Italian Opera House</i>, occupying the site of the
+former Covent Garden Theatre, was built in 1858, on the ruins of
+one destroyed by fire.&nbsp; The building is very remarkable,
+both within and without.&nbsp; Under the lesseeship of Mr. Gye,
+and the conductorship of Mr. (now Sir Michael) Costa, operas have
+been produced here with a completeness scarcely paralleled in
+Europe.&nbsp; When not required for <i>Italian Operas</i>, the
+building is occupied usually by an <i>English Opera</i> Company,
+or occasionally for miscellaneous concerts.&nbsp; The <i>Floral
+Hall</i>, adjoining this theatre, is occasionally engaged for
+concerts.&nbsp; <i>Drury Lane Theatre</i>, the fourth on the same
+site, was built in 1812; its glories live in the past, for the
+legitimate drama now alternates there with entertainments of a
+more spectacular and melodramatic character.&nbsp; The
+<i>Haymarket Theatre</i>, exactly opposite Her Majesty&rsquo;s,
+was built in 1821; under Mr. Buckstone&rsquo;s management, comedy
+and farce are chiefly performed.&nbsp; The <i>Adelphi
+Theatre</i>, in the <a name="page122"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 122</span>Strand, near Southampton Street, was
+rebuilt in 1858; it has for forty years been celebrated for
+melodramas, and for the attractiveness of its comic actors.&nbsp;
+The present lessee, Mr. Webster, has the merit of having
+introduced many improvements for the comfort of the
+audience.&nbsp; The <i>Lyceum Theatre</i>, or <i>English Opera
+House</i>, at the corner of Wellington Street, Strand, was built
+in 1834; it was intended as an English Opera House, but its
+fortunes have been fluctuating, and the performances are not of a
+definite kind.&nbsp; The <i>Princess&rsquo;s Theatre</i>, on the
+north side of Oxford Street, was built in 1830; after a few years
+of opera and miscellaneous dramas, it became the scene of Mr.
+Charles Kean&rsquo;s Shakspearian revivals, and now resembles
+most of the other theatres.&nbsp; <i>St. James&rsquo;s
+Theatre</i>, in King Street, St. James&rsquo;s, was built for
+Braham, the celebrated singer; it was a losing speculation to
+him; and although a really beautiful theatre inside, its
+managerial arrangements have been very changeable of late
+years.&nbsp; The <i>Olympic Theatre</i>, in Wych Street, Drury
+Lane, is small, but well conducted and successful.&nbsp; The
+<i>Strand Theatre</i>, near the Olympic, has been remarkable for
+its burlesque extravaganzes.&nbsp; The <i>New Globe Theatre</i>,
+Newcastle Street, Strand, and the <i>Gaiety</i>, 345 Strand, and
+lastly the <i>Vaudeville</i>, (for comedy, farce, and burlesque,)
+near the <i>Adelphi</i>, are all of comparatively recent
+erection; so are the <i>Court Theatre</i>, near Sloane Square;
+the <i>Charing Cross Theatre</i>, King William Street; the
+<i>Queen&rsquo;s Theatre</i>, Long Acre, late <i>St.
+Martin&rsquo;s Hall</i>; and the <i>Holborn Theatre</i>.&nbsp;
+The <i>New Royalty</i>, or <i>Soho Theatre</i>, in Dean Street,
+Soho, was once a private theatre, belonging to Miss Kelly, the
+celebrated actress.&nbsp; The <i>Prince of Wales&rsquo;s
+Theatre</i>, in Tottenham Street, is the old Tottenham Theatre in
+a renovated and greatly improved condition.&nbsp; Some of Mr. T.
+W. Robertson&rsquo;s best comedies have been produced here within
+the last few years.&nbsp; <i>Sadler&rsquo;s Wells</i>, near the
+New River Head, was at one time remarkable for the &lsquo;real
+water&rsquo; displayed in melodramas.&nbsp; The <i>Marylebone
+Theatre</i>, between Regent&rsquo;s Park and the Edgeware Road;
+the <i>Grecian</i>, in the City Road; the <i>Britannia</i>, at
+Hoxton; the <i>City of London</i>, in Norton Folgate; the
+<i>Standard</i>, in Shoreditch; and the <i>Pavilion</i>, in
+Whitechapel, are Theatres noticeable for the large numbers of <a
+name="page123"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 123</span>persons
+accommodated, and the lowness of the prices of admission.&nbsp;
+On the Surrey side of the Thames are <i>Astley&rsquo;s
+Amphitheatre</i>, in the Westminster Road, (the Circus is now
+removed;) the <i>Victoria Theatre</i>, in the Waterloo Road; and
+the <i>Surrey Theatre</i>, in Blackfriars Road.&nbsp; The
+performances at these several theatres commence at an hour
+varying from half-past six (some of the minors) to half-past
+eight (two Opera houses) in the evening, but the most usual hour
+is seven; and, as a general rule, there is half-price at a later
+hour in the evening.&nbsp; During the run of the Christmas
+pantomimes there are a few additional performances at two in the
+afternoon.&nbsp; It has recently been estimated that 4,000
+persons are employed at the London theatres, earning daily food
+for probably 12,000; and that the public spend about
+&pound;350,000 at those places annually.</p>
+<p><b>Concerts</b>.&mdash;The principal Concert Rooms in London
+are, <i>Exeter Hall</i>, <i>St. James&rsquo;s Hall</i>,
+<i>Hanover Square Rooms</i>, the <i>Music Hall</i>, in Store
+Street, the <i>Floral Hall</i>, <i>Willis&rsquo; Rooms</i>, and
+the <i>Queen&rsquo;s Concert Room</i>, attached to Her
+Majesty&rsquo;s Theatre.&nbsp; All these places are engaged for
+single concerts; but there are also musical societies and choral
+bodies which give series of concerts every year.&nbsp; Among
+these are the <i>Sacred Harmonic Society</i>, (Exeter Hall,) the
+<i>National Choral Society</i>, (same place,) the <i>Philharmonic
+Society</i>, (Hanover Square Rooms,) <i>Mr. Henry Leslie&rsquo;s
+Choir</i>, the <i>New Philharmonic</i>, (St. James&rsquo;s Hall,)
+the <i>Musical Society</i>, the <i>Musical Union</i>, the <i>Glee
+and Madrigal Society</i>, the <i>Beethoven Society</i>, the
+<i>Monday Popular Concerts</i>, &amp;c.&nbsp; The <i>Oratorio</i>
+performances at Exeter Hall, by the Sacred Harmonic and National
+Choral Societies, are considered to be the finest of the kind in
+Europe.&nbsp; There are occasional <i>Handel Choral Meetings</i>
+at the same place, under Sir Michael Costa, supported by 1,600
+singers.</p>
+<p><b>Tavern Music Halls</b>.&mdash;Numerous Rooms connected with
+taverns have been opened in London, within the last few years,
+for musical performances.&nbsp; The music is a singular compound
+of Italian, English, and German operatic compositions, fairly
+executed, with comic songs of the most extravagant kind; to these
+are added what the performers please to term &lsquo;nigger&rsquo;
+dances, and athletic and rope-dancing feats&mdash;the whole
+accompanied by drinking and <a name="page124"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 124</span>smoking on the part of the
+audience.&nbsp; The chief among these places are, <i>Canterbury
+Hall</i>, near the Westminster Road; the <i>Oxford</i>, in Oxford
+Street; the <i>Royal Music Hall</i>, late <i>Weston&rsquo;s</i>,
+in Holborn; the <i>Alhambra</i>, in Leicester Square; the
+<i>Philharmonic</i>, Islington, near the <i>Angel</i>.&nbsp;
+<i>Evans&rsquo;</i>, in Covent Garden, does not as a rule admit
+females, though ladies, friends of the proprietor, &amp;c., are
+occasionally allowed to look down on the proceedings from
+wired-in private boxes above the line of the stage.&nbsp;
+<i>Evans&rsquo;</i> has long been honourably known for its old
+English glees, catches, madrigals, &amp;c., good supper, and
+gentlemanly arrangements and audiences.&nbsp; The <i>Raglan</i>,
+the <i>Winchester</i>, the <i>South London</i>, and others, are
+of plainer character.&nbsp; Charge, usually 6d. to 1s.&nbsp; Mr.
+Morton, the former proprietor of <i>Canterbury Hall</i>, provided
+a capital gallery of pictures, (<i>Punch&rsquo;s</i> &lsquo;Royal
+Academy over the Water,&rsquo;) placed freely open to the
+visitors to the Music Hall.</p>
+<p><b>Entertainments</b>.&mdash;There is a class of London
+amusements, called <i>Entertainments</i>, which has come much
+into fashion within a few years.&nbsp; They generally last about
+two hours, from eight till ten in the evening.&nbsp; The late Mr.
+Albert Smith was one of the first to commence these
+entertainments, with his &lsquo;<i>Overland Route</i>,&rsquo;
+&lsquo;<i>Mont Blanc</i>,&rsquo; and &lsquo;<i>China</i>;&rsquo;
+and the names of other well known entertainers are, Mr. Woodin,
+Mr. and Mrs. German Reed, Mr. John Parry, Mr. A. Sketchley, Mr.
+and Mrs. Howard Paul, &amp;c.&nbsp; Delineation of character,
+painted scenery, descriptive sketches, singing, music,
+ventriloquism&mdash;some or all of these supply the materials
+from which these entertainments are got up.&nbsp; Sometimes the
+<i>programme</i> of performances is of a less rational character,
+depending on the incongruities of so-called negro melodists;
+while occasionally a higher tone is adopted, as in
+&lsquo;<i>Readings</i>,&rsquo; by various persons.&nbsp; The
+principal halls or rooms in which these entertainments are held
+are the <i>Egyptian Hall</i>, Piccadilly; the <i>Gallery of
+Illustration</i>, Regent Street; the minor rooms at <i>St.
+James&rsquo;s Hall</i>; and the <i>Music Hall</i>, in Store
+Street.&nbsp; The prices of admission generally vary from 1s. to
+3s.&nbsp; The leading pages of the daily newspapers, and more
+especially of the <i>Times</i>, will always shew which of these
+entertainments are open at any particular time.</p>
+<p><a name="page125"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+125</span><b>Miscellaneous Amusements</b>.&mdash;The sources of
+information just mentioned will also notify particulars of
+numerous other places of amusement, which need not be separately
+classified.&nbsp; Among these are the <i>Polytechnic
+Institution</i>, Regent Street, (famous for Mr. Pepper&rsquo;s
+&lsquo;Ghosts;&rsquo;) and <i>Madame Tussaud&rsquo;s Waxwork</i>,
+Baker Street, Portman Square, (a favourite exhibition with
+country visitors.)&nbsp; To all such places the charge of
+admission is 1s.&nbsp; Among <i>Pleasure Gardens</i>, for music,
+dancing, tight and slack rope performances, &amp;c., <i>Cremorne
+Gardens</i>, at Chelsea, <i>St. Helena Gardens</i>, at
+Rotherhithe, the <i>Riverside Gardens</i>, at North Woolwich, and
+the <i>Surrey Gardens</i>, near Walworth, are the principal;
+<i>Vauxhall Gardens</i> have disappeared as places of amusement,
+and have been supplanted by bricks and mortar.&nbsp; The
+so-called <i>Tea Gardens</i> are much more numerous, and are
+supported rather by the profit on the beverages sold, than by the
+fee charged for admission.</p>
+<p>A few additional particulars concerning <i>Free
+Exhibitions</i>, <i>Shilling Exhibitions</i>, and Exhibitions
+available only by Introduction, are given in the
+<i>Appendix</i>.</p>
+<h2>PARKS AND PUBLIC GROUNDS; ZOOLOGICAL, BOTANICAL, AND
+HORTICULTURAL GARDENS.</h2>
+<p>Much has been done within the last few years towards adorning
+the metropolis with health-giving parks and grounds freely open
+to the public.&nbsp; The gardens of three scientific societies,
+gradually brought into a very attractive state, are also
+accessible, though not without payment.</p>
+<p><b>St. James&rsquo;s Park</b>.&mdash;This is so called from
+St. James&rsquo;s Palace, which partly bounds it on the
+north.&nbsp; Originally these grounds were a marshy waste, which
+was drained and otherwise improved by Henry VIII.; who also took
+down an ancient hospital dedicated to St. James, and built on its
+site the palace now called St. James&rsquo;s.&nbsp; Charles II.
+improved the grounds by planting the avenues of lime-trees on the
+north and south sides of the park; and by forming the
+<i>Mall</i>, which was a hollowed, smooth, gravelled space, half
+a mile long, skirted with a wooden border, for playing at
+ball.&nbsp; The southern avenue was appropriated to aviaries; <a
+name="page126"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 126</span>hence it
+derived the appellation Birdcage Walk.&nbsp; The centre of the
+park was occupied by canals and ponds for aquatic birds.&nbsp;
+William III. threw the park open to the public for their
+recreation.&nbsp; Within the last thirty years the park has been
+greatly improved.&nbsp; It is nearly a mile and a-half in
+circumference, and covers about 90 acres; and the avenues form
+delightful shady promenades.&nbsp; In the centre is a fine piece
+of water, interspersed with islands, and dotted with swans and
+water-fowl; a bridge was built across this water in 1857.&nbsp;
+On each side are spacious lawns, enriched with lofty trees and
+flowering shrubs.&nbsp; The lawns are separated from the avenues
+by iron railings, and at different parts are keepers&rsquo;
+lodges.&nbsp; There are nine or ten entrances to the park, the
+Queen&rsquo;s Guard doing duty at each, day and night.&nbsp; At
+the east side is a large gravelled space, called the
+<i>Parade</i>, on which, about ten o&rsquo;clock every morning,
+the body-guards required for the day are mustered&mdash;and here
+the regimental bands perform for a time in fine weather.&nbsp;
+Here also guns are fired on state occasions.&nbsp; At the south
+side of the parade is placed a huge mortar, brought from Spain,
+where it was used during the Peninsular war; it can propel a
+bombshell nearly four miles.&nbsp; At the north end of the parade
+is a piece of Turkish ordnance, of great length, brought from
+Alexandria, in Egypt.&nbsp; A little farther north from the
+parade is a broad flight of steps, giving entrance to the park
+from Waterloo Place, constructed by order of William IV.; these
+steps are surmounted by a lofty column, commemorative of the late
+Duke of York, which occupies the spot where formerly stood
+Carlton House, the favourite residence of George IV. while Prince
+Regent.&nbsp; (Near here the band of the Commissionaires plays on
+summer evenings.)&nbsp; Farther along the Mall, or avenue, is
+Marlborough House; next to which is St. James&rsquo;s Palace,
+separated by Stafford House from the Green Park.&nbsp; At the
+western end is Buckingham Palace; and on the southern side,
+Birdcage Walk, and the Wellington Barracks.&nbsp; This park, all
+things considered, is one of the greatest ornaments to the
+metropolis.&nbsp; The lake or water is a famous skating-place in
+winter; and having been brought to a maximum and nearly uniform
+depth of four feet, there is little danger of drowning by the
+breakage of the ice.</p>
+<p><a name="page127"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+127</span><b>The Green Park</b>.&mdash;This park, less attractive
+than St. James&rsquo;s, and occupying about 60 acres, rises with
+a gentle slope to the north of Buckingham Palace, and is bounded
+on its east side by many fine mansions of the
+nobility&mdash;including those of the Duke of Sutherland, and the
+Earls Spencer, Ellesmere, and Yarborough.&nbsp; In a
+north-westerly direction from the palace is a broad road called
+Constitution Hill, connecting St. James&rsquo;s Park with Hyde
+Park Corner.&nbsp; On the north is the line of terrace-like
+street forming the western portion of Piccadilly.&nbsp; The whole
+of the Green Park is surrounded by iron railings, and is
+interesting from its undulating grassy surface, which rises
+considerably on the north side.&nbsp; From the highest ground
+there is a pleasing prospect of Buckingham Palace, and of St.
+James&rsquo;s Park, with its ornamental grounds and avenues of
+tall trees; and behind these Westminster Abbey and the new Houses
+of Parliament majestically rise, accompanied by the turrets of
+other buildings.&nbsp; At the north-west angle of the park, where
+Constitution Hill joins Piccadilly, is a triumphal arch of the
+reign of George IV., elaborately decorated, but possessing little
+general effect.&nbsp; The largest equestrian statue in England,
+that of the Duke of Wellington, stands on this arch; where it was
+placed in defiance of the opinion of persons of taste, who
+protested against the incongruity of such an arrangement.&nbsp;
+Across the way is the handsome entrance to Hyde Park, close to
+Apsley House, the great Duke&rsquo;s residence; and here, in the
+after-part of the day, in fine weather, may be seen an
+extraordinary concourse of foot-passengers, vehicles, and
+equestrians, going to and returning from Hyde Park; also the
+general traffic between Piccadilly and Kensington, Brompton, and
+other places in a westerly direction.</p>
+<p><b>Hyde Park</b>.&mdash;This fine open place is part of the
+ancient manor of Hida, which belonged to the monastery of St.
+Peter, at Westminster, till Henry VIII. appropriated it
+differently.&nbsp; Its extent is about 390 acres, part of which
+is considerably elevated.&nbsp; The whole is intersected with
+noble roads and paths, and luxuriant trees, planted singly or in
+groups, presenting very diversified prospects.&nbsp; Near the
+south-east corner, the entrance from Piccadilly, on an elevated
+pedestal, stands a colossal bronze statue of Achilles, cast <a
+name="page128"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 128</span>from the
+cannon taken at the battles of Salamanca and Waterloo, weighing
+thirty tons, and (as the inscription informs us) &lsquo;erected
+to the Duke of Wellington and his companions in arms by their
+countrywomen.&rsquo;&nbsp; 
+<a href="images/p128b.jpg">
+<img class='clearcenter' alt=
+"Knightsbridge, Albert Gate, Hyde Park, &amp;c.  (Brompton and
+Kensington Roads in the distance.)"
+title=
+"Knightsbridge, Albert Gate, Hyde Park, &amp;c.  (Brompton and
+Kensington Roads in the distance.)"
+src="images/p128s.jpg" />
+</a>It cost &pound;10,000, and was the work of Sir R.
+Westmacott.&nbsp; The south-east entrance to the park, near
+Apsley House, is marked by a handsome series of arches and
+balustrades, from the designs of Mr. Decimus Burton.&nbsp; The
+north-east entrance, at the end of Oxford Street, now comprises
+the <i>Marble Arch</i>, removed from the front of Buckingham
+Palace.&nbsp; The other entrances, of which there are several,
+are less ornate.&nbsp; The long sheet of water <a
+name="page129"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 129</span>called the
+<i>Serpentine</i> enriches the scenery of Hyde Park.&nbsp; Near
+its western extremity is a stone bridge, of five large and two
+smaller arches, erected in 1826, giving access to the gardens of
+Kensington Palace; and the portion of the Serpentine contained
+within the gardens has lately been rendered very attractive, by
+the formation, at its head, of a small Italian garden, with
+fountains, statuary, &amp;c.&nbsp; The carriage-drive on the
+northern bank of the Serpentine is called the <i>Ladies&rsquo;
+Mile</i>.&nbsp; On the level space of Hyde Park troops of the
+line and volunteers are occasionally reviewed.&nbsp; There is a
+well-stored magazine near the western side.&nbsp; The broad road
+through the park to Kensington is denominated Rotten Row, and is
+a fashionable resort for equestrians of both sexes, but is not
+open to wheel-carriages.&nbsp; Other roads display countless
+elegant equipages of wealth and fashion; while the footpaths,
+which are railed off from the roads, are favourite places of
+resort for visitors, who enjoy the salubrity of the air, and the
+gaiety of the scene, more particularly between five and seven on
+a summer afternoon.&nbsp; There are several entrances open from
+early morning till ten at night.&nbsp; No stage or hackney
+coaches, carts, or waggons, are permitted within the gates of
+Hyde Park&mdash;with the exception of a road-way, made at the
+time of the International Exhibition in 1862, and since kept up,
+across the park, near Kensington Gardens, for
+passenger-vehicles.&nbsp; The Serpentine is much frequented for
+bathing and skating.&nbsp; It has been recently cleaned out, and
+drained to that end; the Royal Humane Society have a
+receiving-house near at hand, to aid those whose lives may be
+endangered.&nbsp; The morning and evening hours for bathing are
+defined by regulations placarded in various places.&nbsp; The
+Great Exhibition of 1851, the first of its kind, was held in a
+Crystal Palace near the south-west corner of the park.&nbsp; The
+Exhibition building of 1862 was beyond the limits of the
+park.&nbsp; The <i>Albert Memorial</i> is at the Kensington end
+of Hyde Park.</p>
+<p><b>London International Exhibition</b>.&mdash;Not far beyond
+Prince&rsquo;s Gate, Hyde Park, is the London International
+Exhibition of 1873, which opened on the 1st May, and will
+continue open till the 30th September of this year.&nbsp; The
+ground plan and the view of the building which we give will save
+unnecessary expenditure of our <a name="page130"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 130</span>space, which is obviously
+limited.&nbsp; 
+<a href="images/p130b.jpg">
+<img class='clearcenter' alt=
+"Ground Plan"
+title=
+"Ground Plan"
+src="images/p130s.jpg" />
+</a>Among the many objects of interest are shewn selected
+specimens as follows:&mdash;Pictures, Oil and Water Colour;
+Sculpture; Decorative Furniture, Plate, Designs, Mosaics,
+&amp;c.; Stained Glass; Architecture and Models; Engravings;
+Lithography; Photography as a Fine Art; Porcelain; Earthenware of
+all kinds; Terra-Cotta and Stoneware; Machinery used for Pottery
+of all kinds; Woollen Manufactures; Carpets; Worsted
+Manufactures; Machinery, in motion, used in Woollen and Worsted
+<a name="page131"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+131</span>Manufactures; Live Alpacas, remarkable for their hair
+and wool, and other animals; Educational Works and Appliances;
+Scientific Inventions and Discoveries; Horticulture.&nbsp; In the
+Royal Albert Hall musical art is represented daily.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p131b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"London International Exhibition, 1873"
+title=
+"London International Exhibition, 1873"
+src="images/p131s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><b>Kensington Gardens</b>.&mdash;At the western extremity of
+Hyde Park lie Kensington Gardens, a large piece of ground laid
+out in the ornamental park style, interspersed with walks, and
+ornamented with rows and clumps of noble trees.&nbsp; Besides
+entrances from Hyde Park, there are others from the Knightsbridge
+and Bayswater Roads.&nbsp; Near the west end of the grounds
+stands Kensington Palace.&nbsp; The gardens have been more than
+once considerably extended, so that they now measure about two
+and a-half miles in circumference.&nbsp; There are some beautiful
+gates on the south side, which were contributed by the Coalbrook
+Dale Company to the Great Exhibition of 1851.&nbsp; These grounds
+form a most delightful public promenade during fine weather;
+especially on summer evenings, when one of the Guards&rsquo;
+bands frequently plays near the south-east corner.</p>
+<p><a name="page132"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+132</span><b>Regent&rsquo;s Park</b>.&mdash;This beautiful park
+is situated considerably away from the other parks, in a
+northerly direction from the Marylebone Road.&nbsp; It consists
+of a nearly circular enclosure of about 470 acres, laid out on
+the approved principles of landscape gardening; its centre is
+enriched with lakes, plantations, shrubberies, and beds of
+flowers.&nbsp; Many of the Metropolitan Volunteer Rifle Corps
+exercise and drill in this park, in all except the winter
+months.&nbsp; The park is surrounded by extensive ranges of
+buildings, forming terraces, variously designated, and decorated
+with sculpture in agreement with their respective orders of
+architecture: producing an effect of much grandeur, though, in
+some instances, of questionable taste.&nbsp; Three or four
+isolated mansions occupy sites within the park.&nbsp; The outer
+drive is two miles in circuit; the inner drive is a perfect
+circle, with two outlets.&nbsp; At Mr. Bishop&rsquo;s
+Observatory, near this inner circle, Mr. Hind made most of his
+important discoveries of asteroids and comets.&nbsp; Near the
+south-eastern corner of the park the <i>Colosseum</i> stands
+conspicuous.&nbsp; It is now closed.&nbsp; The Zoological and
+Botanical Gardens will be described presently.&nbsp; Some
+distance north of the Colosseum are St. Katharine&rsquo;s
+Hospital and Chapel&mdash;a very luxurious provision for
+&lsquo;six poor bachelors and six poor spinsters.&rsquo;&nbsp;
+Near the Colosseum was the once celebrated exhibition called the
+<i>Diorama</i>, which was some years ago converted into a Baptist
+chapel, at the cost of Sir Morton Peto.</p>
+<p><b>Primrose Hill</b>.&mdash;This spot now deserves to be
+ranked among the public parks of London.&nbsp; It is immediately
+north of the Regent&rsquo;s Park.&nbsp; The Crown owned part of
+it, and obtained the rest by purchase from Eton College.&nbsp;
+The hill-top, the grassy slopes, and the gravelled paths are kept
+in excellent order; and a stranger should not lose an opportunity
+of viewing the &lsquo;world of London&rsquo; from this spot in
+early morning.&nbsp; By permission of the authorities, a
+refreshment-room has been established for visitors; and a
+&lsquo;Shakspeare Oak&rsquo; planted, April 23, 1864, which,
+however, &ldquo;came to grief.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><b>Victoria Park</b>.&mdash;This, the only park in the east or
+poorer division of London, consists of about 270 acres.&nbsp;
+Having been formed only a few years, the trees have not yet grown
+to a full size; but it is gradually becoming a pleasant spot,
+with flower-beds, lakes, walks, <a name="page133"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 133</span>and shady avenues.&nbsp; This park
+is especially distinguished by possessing the most magnificent
+<i>Public Fountain</i> yet constructed in the metropolis; it was
+provided by the munificence of Miss Burdett Coutts, at a cost of
+&pound;5,000; the design, due to Mr. Darbyshire, is that of a
+Gothic structure, crowned by a cupola 60 feet high.&nbsp; Being
+near the densely populated districts of Bethnal Green and Mile
+End, the park is a great boon to the inhabitants.&nbsp; It lies
+between those districts and Hackney, and easy access to it can be
+obtained from two stations on the North London
+Railway&mdash;those of Hackney and Hackney Wick, or Victoria
+Park.&nbsp; The fountain just mentioned is near the Hackney
+entrance.&nbsp; Improved access is also opened from Whitechapel,
+from Mile End, and from Bow.</p>
+<p><b>Battersea Park</b>.&mdash;This park, of about 180 acres, on
+which &pound;300,000 has been spent, lies between Vauxhall and
+Battersea, and is the only public park which comes down to the
+Thames.&nbsp; Nothing can exceed the change exhibited on this
+spot.&nbsp; Until recently it was a miserable swamp, called
+Battersea Fields; now it is a fine park, interesting to look at,
+and healthful to walk in.&nbsp; A beautiful suspension bridge,
+from the designs of Mr. Page, connects this park with Chelsea, on
+the other side of the river; and near it is another bridge for
+railway traffic.</p>
+<p><b>Kennington Park</b>.&mdash;A few years ago there was an
+open common at Kennington, dirty and neglected, and mostly held
+in favour by such classes as those which held the Chartist
+meeting in 1848.&nbsp; It is now a prettily laid-out public
+park&mdash;small, but well kept.</p>
+<p><b>Finsbury Park</b>, Stoke Newington, near Alexandra Park,
+was opened in August, 1869.</p>
+<p><b>Southwark Park</b> was opened about the same time.&nbsp;
+Though small, they are great boons to the working classes.</p>
+<p><b>Zoological Gardens</b>.&mdash;At the northern extremity of
+the Regent&rsquo;s Park are the <i>Zoological Gardens</i>, the
+property of the Zoological Society, and established in
+1826.&nbsp; These gardens are very extensive; and being removed
+from the dingy atmosphere, noise, and bustle of London, present
+an agreeable and country-like aspect.&nbsp; The grounds have been
+disposed in picturesque style&mdash;here a clump of shrubby trees
+and border of flowers, indigenous and exotic; there <a
+name="page134"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 134</span>a pretty
+miniature lake; and at intervals a neat rustic cottage, with
+straw-thatched roof and honeysuckled porch.&nbsp; Much of the
+ground, also, is occupied as green meadows, either subdivided
+into small paddocks for deer and other quadrupeds, or dotted with
+movable trellis-houses, the abodes of different kinds of birds
+which require the refreshing exercise of walking on the green
+turf.&nbsp; Throughout the whole, neat gravel-walks wind their
+serpentine course, and conduct the visitor to the
+carnivora-house, reptile-house, bear-pit, monkey-house, aviaries,
+aquaria, and other departments of the establishment.&nbsp; The
+collection of animals is unquestionably the finest in
+England.&nbsp; The gardens are open every week-day, from 9 till
+sunset, for the admission of visitors, who pay 1s. each at the
+gate, or 6d. on Mondays.&nbsp; On Saturday afternoon, in summer,
+one of the Guards&rsquo; bands generally plays for an hour or
+two.&nbsp; On Sunday Fellows are admitted, and non-Fellows by a
+Fellow&rsquo;s order.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p134b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Zoological Gardens"
+title=
+"Zoological Gardens"
+src="images/p134s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><b>Botanical Gardens</b>.&mdash;These are also situated in the
+Regent&rsquo;s Park, occupying the chief portion of the space
+within the inner circle.&nbsp; <a name="page135"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 135</span>They belong to the Botanical
+Society, and contain a very choice collection of trees, shrubs,
+flowers, and plants generally.&nbsp; Admission by strangers can
+only be obtained through the medium of the members, or
+occasionally on the payment of rather a high fee.&nbsp; On the
+days of the principal flower and plant shows, these gardens are
+especially distinguished by the display of aristocratic fashion
+and beauty.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p135b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Horticultural Gardens"
+title=
+"Horticultural Gardens"
+src="images/p135s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><b>Horticultural Gardens</b>.&mdash;These beautiful new
+grounds are objects of attraction on many accounts&mdash;their
+merit in connection with garden architecture, the interest
+attending the flower-shows there held, and the special relation
+existing between the grounds and the Exhibitions at
+Brompton.&nbsp; You can enter them by the gates in Exhibition
+Road and Prince Albert Road, South Kensington.&nbsp; A few years
+ago, besides an office in London, the society had only facilities
+at Chiswick for holding the great flower-shows.&nbsp; The present
+arrangement is in all respects a superior one.&nbsp; Twenty acres
+of land were purchased or rented from the Commissioners of <a
+name="page136"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 136</span>the Great
+Exhibition of 1851, between the Kensington and Brompton Roads;
+the subscribers of the purchase-money being admitted to
+membership on favourable conditions.&nbsp; The ground is laid out
+in three terraces, rising successively in elevation, and
+surrounded by Italian arcades open to the gardens.&nbsp; There
+are also cascades and waterworks.&nbsp; The highest terrace has a
+spacious conservatory, to form a winter-garden.&nbsp; Mr. Sidney
+Smith is the architect.&nbsp; The last Great Exhibition building
+was so planned as to form a vast southern background to the
+gardens; and the latter were spread out in all their beauty, as
+seen from certain points in the former.&nbsp; During the summer
+months the gardens are open on certain occasions to the public by
+paying, the days and terms being duly advertised in the
+newspapers and journals.&nbsp; Near these gardens is the towering
+<i>Royal Albert Hall of Science and Art</i>, which was formally
+opened by Queen Victoria, on the 29th of March, 1871.&nbsp; The
+fact of 8,000 people attending within one building to witness the
+opening of it, will shew its vast size.&nbsp; The sum of
+&pound;200,000, up to that date, had been expended on it.&nbsp;
+The Hall, in some sense, has been erected in memory of the late
+Prince Consort, whose aspirations, during his honourable life
+here, were always towards whatever tended to the moral and
+intellectual culture of the people of this country.&nbsp; The
+management of the undertaking is entrusted to the energetic
+attention of the scientific men to whom we owe the South
+Kensington Museum.</p>
+<h2>OMNIBUSES; TRAMWAYS; CABS; RAILWAYS; STEAMERS.</h2>
+<p><b>Omnibuses</b>.&mdash;Very few indeed of the regular
+old-fashioned coaches are now to be seen in London.&nbsp; Most of
+the places within twenty miles of the metropolis, on every side,
+are supplied with omnibuses instead.&nbsp; The first omnibus was
+started by Mr. Shillibeer, from Paddington to the Bank, July 4,
+1829.&nbsp; From a return with which, by the courtesy of Colonel
+Henderson, C.B., Commissioner of the Metropolitan Police,
+Scotland Yard, we were kindly favoured, we gathered, that up to
+date of the communication in question,&mdash;viz., 28th June,
+1870,&mdash;the number of such vehicles licensed in the
+Metropolitan district was 1,218.&nbsp; Every omnibus and hackney
+<a name="page137"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 137</span>carriage
+within the Metropolitan district and the City of London, and the
+liberties thereof, has to take out a yearly license, in full
+force for one year, unless revoked or suspended; and all such
+licenses are to be granted by the Commissioners of Police, whose
+officers are constantly inspecting these public vehicles.&nbsp;
+Generally speaking, each <i>omnibus</i> travels over the same
+route, and exactly the same number of times, day after day, with
+the exception of some few of the omnibuses which go longer
+journeys than the rest, and run not quite so often in winter as
+in summer.&nbsp; Hence the former class of omnibus comes to be
+associated with a particular route.&nbsp; It is known to the
+passengers by its colour, the name of its owner, the name given
+to the omnibus itself, or the places to and from which it runs,
+according to circumstances.&nbsp; The designations given to the
+omnibuses, whether meaning or unmeaning in themselves, are found
+to be very convenient, because they are generally written in
+large conspicuous characters.&nbsp; This being an important
+matter to strangers, we shall give a condensed list of some of
+the chief omnibus routes in London in the <i>Appendix</i>.</p>
+<p>Large omnibuses, to work on <i>street tramways</i>, after
+having been tried within the last few years, having evoked angry
+discussion between opponents and defenders, and having been
+entirely withdrawn, have now been revived, from Brixton Church to
+Kennington Gate, on the Mile End and Whitechapel Roads, City
+Road, Kingsland, &amp;c., &amp;c., and are rapidly extending.</p>
+<p>There are, to a male visitor, few better ways of getting a
+bird&rsquo;s-eye view of London than by riding outside an omnibus
+from one end of London to the other, as, according to the omnibus
+taken, the route can be greatly varied.</p>
+<p><b>Cabs</b>.&mdash;These convenient vehicles have completely
+superseded the old pair-horse hackney-coaches in London; no
+vehicle of the kind being now ever seen.&nbsp; There are,
+according to the return above quoted, 6,793 of the modern
+single-horse hackney-coaches in the metropolis
+altogether&mdash;of two different kinds,
+&lsquo;four-wheelers&rsquo; and &lsquo;Hansoms,&rsquo; (named
+after the patentee.)&nbsp; The &lsquo;four-wheelers&rsquo; are
+the more numerous; they have two seats and two doors; they carry
+four persons, and are entirely enclosed.&nbsp; The
+&lsquo;Hansoms&rsquo; have two <a name="page138"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 138</span>very large wheels, one seat to
+accommodate two persons, and are open in front; the driver is
+perched up behind, and drives his vehicle at a rapid rate.</p>
+<p><b>Railways</b>.&mdash;If omnibuses and cabs are more
+important than railways to strangers while <i>in</i> London,
+railways are obviously the most important of the three when
+coming to or departing from London.&nbsp; The following are a few
+particulars concerning such railways as enter the metropolis.</p>
+<p><i>London and North-Western Railway</i> has its terminus just
+behind Euston Square.&nbsp; The noble portico in front&mdash;by
+far the finest thing of the kind connected with railway
+architecture&mdash;has been rendered ridiculous by the
+alterations in the buildings behind it; for it is now at one
+corner of an enclosed court, instead of being in the centre of
+the frontage.&nbsp; A new hall leading to the booking-offices,
+finished in 1849, is worthy of the great company to which it
+belongs; the vast dimensions, the fine statue of George
+Stephenson, and the <i>bassi-rilievi</i> by Thomas, render it an
+object deserving of a visit.&nbsp; This station is the London
+terminus of a system exceeding 1,446 miles.</p>
+<p>The <i>Midland Railway</i> has a magnificent terminus in the
+Euston Road, and a junction with the Metropolitan line.&nbsp; It
+has already more than 800 miles open.</p>
+<p><i>Great Northern Railway</i> has its terminus at King&rsquo;s
+Cross&mdash;a building more remarkable for novelty than for
+beauty.&nbsp; This company, a severe competitor to some of older
+date, has few stations near London; but the directness of the
+line of railway renders it important as an outlet to the
+north.&nbsp; A good hotel is contiguous to the terminus.&nbsp;
+The goods&rsquo; dep&ocirc;t has become famous for the vast
+quantity of coal brought to the metropolis.</p>
+<p><i>Great Western Railway</i> has its terminus at Paddington,
+where a fine new station was built a few years ago.&nbsp; A style
+of arabesque polychrome decoration has been adopted, not seen at
+other metropolitan stations.&nbsp; Paddington is the
+head-quarters of the broad-gauge system, which extends to
+Weymouth in one direction, to Truro in a second, to Milford Haven
+in a third, and to Wolverhampton in a fourth; but some of the
+broad-gauge lines belong to <a name="page139"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 139</span>other companies; while, on the other
+hand, this company has adopted the double-gauge on about 400
+miles of its line.&nbsp; The terminus has a splendid new hotel
+adjoining it.</p>
+<p><i>West London Railway</i> (now better known as the <i>West
+London Extension Railway</i>) can hardly be said to have an
+independent commercial existence.&nbsp; It was an old and
+unsuccessful affair, till taken up by four of the great
+companies, and enlarged in an important way.&nbsp; It now
+includes a railway bridge over the Thames at Battersea; it is
+connected with the London and North-Western, the Great Western,
+and the Metropolitan, on the north, and with the South-Western,
+the Brighton, and the Chatham and Dover, on the south.&nbsp;
+There are stations at Kensington, Chelsea, and Battersea.</p>
+<p><i>Hammersmith and City Junction Railway</i> crosses the
+last-named line at Shepherds&rsquo; Bush, and joins the Great
+Western at Kensal New Town, a mile or two beyond Paddington.</p>
+<p><i>North and South-Western Junction Railway</i> is, perhaps,
+valuable rather as a link between the greater railways, than as
+an independent line.&nbsp; It joins the North London at Camden
+Town, and the South-Western at Kew; and has stations at Kentish
+Town, Hampstead, Finchley New Road, Edgeware Road, Kensal Green,
+Acton, and Hammersmith.&nbsp; It establishes through trains with
+other companies; and although it has no actual London terminus of
+its own, it is a great convenience to the western margin of the
+metropolis, for the fares are low.</p>
+<p><i>South-Western Railway</i> has its terminus in the Waterloo
+Road, which has been placed in connection with the London Bridge
+Station.&nbsp; The main lines of the company extend to Portsmouth
+in one direction, Dorchester in another, and Exeter in a third;
+while there is a multitude of branches&mdash;from Wimbledon to
+Croydon, from Wimbledon to Epsom and Leatherhead, from Wandsworth
+to Richmond and Windsor, from Barnes to Hounslow, from Staines to
+Reading, &amp;c.&nbsp; There is no good hotel whatever near the
+Waterloo or Vauxhall Stations&mdash;a defect which seems to need
+a remedy.</p>
+<p><i>Victoria and Crystal Palace Railway</i> is a concern in
+which so <a name="page140"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+140</span>many companies have an interest, that it is not easy to
+define the ownership.&nbsp; The Victoria Station, within a
+quarter of a mile of the Queen&rsquo;s Palace, Pimlico, is very
+large, but certainly not very handsome.&nbsp; The <i>Grosvenor
+Hotel</i>, attached to it, may rank among the finest in the
+metropolis.&nbsp; The Brighton, the Chatham and Dover, and the
+Great Western, are accommodated at this station, where both the
+broad and narrow gauges are laid down.&nbsp; The railway leads
+thence, to join the Brighton at Sydenham and Norwood, by a
+railway-bridge across the Thames; it has stations at Battersea,
+Wandsworth, Balham, Streatham, Norwood, and the Crystal Palace;
+and throws off branches to meet the lines of the other three
+companies above named.</p>
+<p><i>London</i>, <i>Brighton</i>, <i>and South Coast Railway</i>
+has for its terminus a portion of the great London Bridge
+Station, contiguous to which a hotel has been constructed.&nbsp;
+It also has termini at Victoria and Kensington.&nbsp; The line
+leads nearly due south to the sea at Brighton, and then along the
+sea-coast, from Hastings in the east to Portsmouth in the
+west.&nbsp; There are also several branches to accommodate Surrey
+and Sussex.&nbsp; Taken altogether, this is the most remarkable
+<i>pleasure-line</i> in England,&mdash;the traffic of this kind
+between London and Brighton being something marvellous.</p>
+<p><i>South-Eastern Railway</i> has another portion of the large
+but incongruous London Bridge Station in its possession.&nbsp;
+The seaside termini of the line are at Margate, Ramsgate, Deal,
+Dover, and Hastings.&nbsp; The Greenwich and North Kent branches
+are important feeders; while there are others of less
+value.&nbsp; The company have spent a vast sum of money in
+extending their line to the north of the Thames&mdash;by forming
+a city station in Cannon Street, with a bridge over the river
+midway between London and Southwark Bridges; and a West-end
+Station at Charing Cross, with a bridge over the river at (what
+was till lately) Hungerford Market.&nbsp; There is also a
+connection with the South-Western terminus in the Waterloo
+Road.&nbsp; The company have been forced to pay a sum of
+&pound;300,000 for St. Thomas&rsquo;s Hospital, as the only means
+of insuring a convenient course for this extension&mdash;a
+striking instance of the stupendous scale on which railway
+operations are now conducted.</p>
+<p><a name="page141"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+141</span><i>London</i>, <i>Chatham</i>, <i>and Dover Railway</i>
+is a very costly enterprise.&nbsp; It may be said to start from
+two junctions with the Metropolitan, has a large station near
+Ludgate Hill, (involving great destruction of property,) crosses
+the Thames a little eastward of Blackfriars Bridge, and proceeds
+through Surrey and Kent to Sydenham, Bromley, Crays, Sevenoaks,
+Chatham, Sheerness, Faversham, Herne Bay, Margate, Ramsgate,
+Canterbury, Dover Pier, &amp;c.&nbsp; It also comprises a
+curvilinear line from Ludgate to Pimlico, with stations at
+Blackfriars, Newington, Walworth, Camberwell, Loughborough Road,
+Brixton, Clapham, Wandsworth Road, and Battersea; and a branch to
+Peckham, Nunhead, and the Crystal Palace.</p>
+<p><i>Blackwall Railway</i>, with which is associated the
+<i>Tilbury and Southend</i>, has its terminus in Fenchurch
+Street.&nbsp; The station is small and unattractive; but it
+accommodates a wonderful amount of passenger traffic.&nbsp; The
+original line extended only from London to Blackwall, with
+intermediate stations at Shadwell, Stepney, Limehouse, West India
+Docks, and Poplar.&nbsp; An important branch from Stepney to Bow
+establishes a connection with the Great Eastern Railway valuable
+to both companies.&nbsp; At Stepney also begins the Tilbury and
+Southend line, passing through Bromley, Barking, and numerous
+other places.&nbsp; Accommodation is provided, a little way from
+the Fenchurch Street Station, for a large amount of goods
+traffic.&nbsp; The line is now leased in perpetuity to the Great
+Eastern Company.</p>
+<p><i>Great Eastern Railway</i> has its terminus in Bishopsgate
+Street, or rather Shoreditch, and a large dep&ocirc;t and station
+at Stratford.&nbsp; The Shoreditch station is large.&nbsp; This
+terminus, however, will shortly be removed to Broad Street,
+City.&nbsp; The lines of this company are numerous, and ramify in
+many directions towards the east, north-east, and north.&nbsp;
+Its terminal points (with those of the associated companies) at
+present are&mdash;Peterborough, Hunstanton, Wells, Yarmouth,
+Aldborough, and Harwich; with less distant termini at Ongar and
+North Woolwich.</p>
+<p><i>North London Railway</i>, consisting wholly of viaduct and
+cutting, has its terminus at Broad Street, Finsbury.&nbsp; All
+its stations are considered to be in London.&nbsp; It joins the
+London and North-Western <a name="page142"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 142</span>near Primrose Hill, and the
+Blackwall at Stepney.&nbsp; It has intermediate stations at
+Camden Road, Caledonian Road, Islington, Cannonbury, Kingsland,
+Dalston, Hackney, Victoria Park, and Bow.&nbsp; Trains run every
+quarter of an hour, in both directions, at fares varying from 2d.
+to 4d.; and the number of passengers is immense.</p>
+<p><i>Metropolitan Railway</i>, from Finsbury to Paddington, is a
+very remarkable one, nearly all tunnel, and requiring the
+carriages to be constantly lighted with gas.&nbsp; It runs from
+Westminster Bridge, <i>vi&acirc;</i> Pimlico, Brompton,
+Kensington, Notting Hill, and Bayswater, to Paddington, where it
+joins the Great Western.&nbsp; It then goes under Praed Street
+and the New Road to King&rsquo;s Cross.&nbsp; There it joins the
+Great Northern, and thence goes on to Holborn Bridge, Smithfield
+Dead Meat Market, and Moorgate Street.&nbsp; Since the opening of
+the Metropolitan District Extension Railway, you can go at
+present (July, 1870) from the Mansion House, under the Northern
+Thames Embankment, before described, to Westminster Bridge,
+&amp;c.&nbsp; There are stations near the Mansion House, the
+terminus; at Blackfriars, the Temple, Charing Cross, and
+Westminster.</p>
+<p><i>Steamers</i> and <i>Steamboat Piers</i> have been already
+referred to.</p>
+<h2><a name="page143"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+143</span>SHORT EXCURSIONS.</h2>
+<p><span class="smcap">We</span> shall now direct the
+stranger&rsquo;s attention to a few places of interest easily
+accessible from the metropolis&mdash;beginning with those
+situated westward, or up the river.</p>
+<h3>UP THE RIVER.</h3>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p143b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Chelsea Hospital"
+title=
+"Chelsea Hospital"
+src="images/p143s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><b>Chelsea</b>.&mdash;Chelsea, once a village, is now a part
+of the metropolis, Pimlico and Belgravia having supplied the
+intervening link.&nbsp; During the last century a pleasant ramble
+across the fields was much in favour to the <i>Chelsea
+bunhouse</i>; but no one thinks of Chelsea now, except as part of
+London.&nbsp; Sloane Square and Street, and Hans Place, were
+named after Sir Hans Sloane, who lived in that
+neighbourhood.&nbsp; The chief place of interest at Chelsea is
+the <i>Hospital</i> for retired invalid soldiers, an institution
+similar to the asylum for old seamen at Greenwich.&nbsp; The
+hospital, which is situated on a flat stretch of ground bordering
+the Thames, and was <a name="page144"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 144</span>planned by Sir Christopher Wren,
+consists chiefly of one large edifice of red brick, several
+stories in height, forming a centre and two wings, or three sides
+of a square, with the open side towards the bank of the
+Thames.&nbsp; On the north, in which is the main entrance, the
+style of architecture is simple, being ornamented with only a
+plain portico.&nbsp; The inner part of the centre building is
+more decorated, there being here a piazza of good proportions,
+forming a sheltered walk for the veteran inmates.&nbsp; In the
+centre of the open square stands a statue, by Grinling Gibbons,
+of Charles II., in whose time the hospital took its rise.&nbsp;
+The only parts of the structure considered worthy to be shewn to
+strangers are the chapel and old dining-hall, both in the central
+building.&nbsp; The chapel is neat and plain in appearance; the
+rows of benches being furnished with prayer-books and hassocks,
+and the floor being paved with chequered marble.&nbsp; Above the
+communion-table is a painting of the Ascension, by Sebastian
+Ricci.&nbsp; The dining-hall is equally spacious, but is now
+disused as a refectory.&nbsp; In the hall and chapel are about
+100 flags, taken by British troops in various battles.&nbsp; The
+usual number of in-pensioners is about 500, and of out-pensioners
+not fewer than 60,000 to 70,000, who reside in all parts of the
+United Kingdom.&nbsp; The former are provided with all
+necessaries, while the latter have each pensions varying
+according to their grade.&nbsp; The inmates wear an antique garb
+of red cloth, in which they may be seen loitering about the
+neighbourhood.</p>
+<p>Near Sloane Square is situated a large building forming the
+<i>Royal Military Asylum</i>, familiarly called the <i>Duke of
+York&rsquo;s School</i>, for the support and education of about
+500 poor children, whose fathers were non-commissioned officers
+and privates in the army.&nbsp; Each regiment of the British army
+contributes annually one day&rsquo;s pay, to aid in supporting
+the institution.&nbsp; Between Sloane Square and Chelsea Bridge
+is the fine new Barracks for the Foot Guards: the only handsome
+barrack structure in the metropolis.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p145b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Star and Garter, Putney"
+title=
+"Star and Garter, Putney"
+src="images/p145s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><b>Chelsea to Chiswick</b>.&mdash;<i>Battersea Park</i>,
+elsewhere described, is just opposite Chelsea.&nbsp; Beyond the
+park are <i>Battersea</i> and <i>Wandsworth</i>, places
+containing very few objects of interest; and backed by
+<i>Clapham</i> and <i>Wimbledon</i>, where many London merchants
+and <a name="page145"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+145</span>tradesmen have their private residences.&nbsp; Beyond
+Wandsworth lie <i>Putney</i>, <i>Barnes</i>, and <i>Mortlake</i>,
+where the river makes a great bend towards Kew.&nbsp; Between
+Putney and Kew many <i>Regattas</i>, or boat-races, take place
+during the summer; especially the famous annual contest, from
+Putney to Mortlake, between the universities of Oxford and
+Cambridge: these are among the most pleasant of the up-river
+scenes.&nbsp; Omnibuses, steamboats, and the South-Western
+Railway, give abundant accommodation to the places here
+named.&nbsp; On the Middlesex side of the river, just beyond
+Chelsea, are <i>Cremorne Gardens</i>.&nbsp; Next, we get into a
+region of Market-Gardens, from which London is supplied with vast
+quantities of fruit and vegetables.&nbsp; <i>Walham Green</i>,
+<i>Parson&rsquo;s Green</i>, and <i>Fulham</i>, lie in the
+immediate vicinity of these gardens.&nbsp; Strangers would find
+an hour or two pleasantly spent hereabouts.&nbsp; The bishops of
+London have their palace at Fulham, a picturesque old
+structure.&nbsp; After passing <i>Hammersmith</i>, where there is
+a pretty suspension bridge, we come to <i>Chiswick</i>, noted for
+its market-gardens; here is the house in which Hogarth died; and
+in the churchyard is his tomb, with an <a
+name="page146"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 146</span>inscription
+by David Garrick.&nbsp; The Duke of Sutherland has a fine mansion
+at Chiswick; and near at hand are the old gardens of the
+Horticultural Society.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p146b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Palm-House, Kew Gardens"
+title=
+"Palm-House, Kew Gardens"
+src="images/p146s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><b>Kew Gardens</b>.&mdash;<i>Kew</i> is one of the pleasantest
+villages near London.&nbsp; When we have crossed the Thames from
+Brentford, by the bridge, we come upon the green, bounded on
+three sides by countryfied-looking houses, and on the fourth by
+the splendid gardens.&nbsp; The place is very easily
+reached&mdash;by omnibuses from the city to the Middlesex end of
+the bridge; by steamers every half-hour during summer; and by
+trains from the Waterloo and the North London Stations.&nbsp; It
+may be well to remember, however, that the so-called Kew Station
+is not actually at Kew.&nbsp; There is another, however, near the
+Gardens.&nbsp; By far the most interesting object at Kew is the
+famous <i>Botanic Gardens</i>.&nbsp; This is a very beautiful
+establishment, maintained at the public expense.&nbsp; It
+contains a rare collection of plants, obtained from all parts of
+the world, arranged and labelled in admirable order by Dr. Dalton
+Hooker.&nbsp; The flower-beds, hot-houses, and conservatories,
+are very numerous.&nbsp; The <i>great palm </i><a
+name="page147"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+147</span><i>house</i>, with its exotics, reaching to a height of
+60 feet, and constructed at a cost of &pound;30,000, forms a
+grand object.&nbsp; The new <i>temperate-house</i> was
+constructed from the designs of Mr. Burton; 212 feet long, 137
+wide, and 60 high, with two wings 112 feet by 62.&nbsp; Extensive
+new works have been added&mdash;including a lake having a
+communication with the Thames by a tunnel under the
+river-terrace, and a winter-garden, or enclosed conservatory,
+more than twice as large as the palm-house.&nbsp; Three detached
+buildings have been fitted up as a <i>Museum of Economic
+Botany</i>.&nbsp; The <i>Pleasure Grounds</i> form a kind of Park
+contiguous to the Botanic Gardens; the gardens are 75 acres in
+extent, and the grounds 240 acres.&nbsp; This beautiful place is
+freely open to the public in the afternoon, on Sundays as well as
+week-days, after one o&rsquo;clock.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p147b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Richmond Bridge"
+title=
+"Richmond Bridge"
+src="images/p147s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><b>Richmond</b>.&mdash;<i>Richmond</i> is a village situated
+on the south bank of the Thames, at about 9 miles by land from
+Hyde Park Corner, and 16 miles by following the windings of the
+river.&nbsp; The most pleasant mode of conveyance to it used to
+be by one of the small steamboats from Hungerford Pier; for then
+an opportunity was afforded of <a name="page148"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 148</span>seeing numerous beautiful and
+interesting spots on both banks of the river.&nbsp; The river is
+now, however, so shallow, that steamers can seldom reach this
+spot; and the trip is usually made by railway&mdash;from the
+Waterloo and Vauxhall Stations, and from all stations on the
+Blackwall, North London, and North and South Western lines.&nbsp;
+Omnibuses also run very frequently from the City and West
+End.&nbsp; Richmond stands on a slope overhanging the
+river.&nbsp; Opposite the village is a stone bridge crossing the
+Thames.&nbsp; South from the village, a pretty steep bank ascends
+to the green and bushy eminence called <i>Richmond Hill</i>; and
+from the terrace on its summit a view is obtained of the
+beautifully wooded country up the river, stretching away to
+Windsor.&nbsp; Among numerous villas, ornamental grounds, and
+other attractive objects, may be seen <i>Twickenham</i>, situated
+in the immediate vicinity, on the left bank of the Thames.&nbsp;
+In the house for which the present was erected as a substitute,
+lived Pope the poet, and his body is entombed in the
+church.&nbsp; 
+<a href="images/p148b.jpg">
+<img class='clearcenter' alt=
+"Pope&rsquo;s Villa"
+title=
+"Pope&rsquo;s Villa"
+src="images/p148s.jpg" />
+</a>Close by <a name="page149"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+149</span>Twickenham is <i>Strawberry Mill</i>, once the seat of
+Horace Walpole, and now belonging to Lady Waldegrave.&nbsp;
+Moving onwards along the brow of the eminence, and passing the
+well known but expensive hotel called the <i>Star and Garter</i>,
+we enter the famous <i>Richmond Park</i>, which is eight miles in
+circumference, and enriched with magnificent trees.&nbsp; These
+extensive grounds were at one time connected with a royal palace,
+but there is now no such edifice&mdash;one or two hunting-lodges
+excepted; the park is, however, still a domain of the Crown, and
+freely open to the public.&nbsp; Foreigners are great admirers of
+this vicinity.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p149b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Hampton Court"
+title=
+"Hampton Court"
+src="images/p149s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><b>Hampton Court</b>.&mdash;<i>Hampton</i> is about 13 miles
+from London by railway, and 24 by water.&nbsp; Trains run there
+very frequently, and at low fares, from Waterloo Station.&nbsp;
+The village is unimportant, but rendered pleasant by its large
+and open green.&nbsp; The chief object of attraction is
+<i>Hampton Court Palace</i>, situated within an enclosed garden
+near the north bank of the Thames.&nbsp; The palace <a
+name="page150"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 150</span>was
+originally built by Cardinal Wolsey, and a portion of the
+structure which he reared is still extant in the northern
+quadrangle.&nbsp; Here was the scene of the humiliation and
+forfeiture of that favourite of Henry VIII., who at this place
+often held his court, and made it the scene of his Christmas
+festivities; there Edward VI. was born; here were held the
+masques, mummeries, and tournaments of Philip and Mary, and
+Elizabeth; here James I. held his court and famous meeting of
+controversialists; here Charles I. was immured as a state
+prisoner, and took leave of his children; here was celebrated the
+marriage of Cromwell&rsquo;s daughter and Lord Falconberg; here
+Charles II. sojourned occasionally with his dissolute courtiers;
+here lived William and Mary after the revolution of 1688; and
+here, till the reign of George II., royal courts were sometimes
+held.&nbsp; The palace, in external appearance, is a lofty and
+magnificent structure of red brick, with stone cornices and
+dressings.&nbsp; The older part, including the famous Great Hall,
+the scene of the court masques and revels, is of the time of
+Henry VIII.; the eastern part, including the public rooms and the
+long garden front, was built by Wren for William III.&nbsp;
+Altogether, the edifice consists of three quadrangles.&nbsp;
+Entering by the grand staircase, which is decorated with
+paintings by Antonio Verrio, the visitor is conducted through a
+suite of lofty and large apartments, furnished in an
+old-fashioned style.&nbsp; The guard-room, which is first in
+order, contains, besides a series of English admirals by Kneller
+and Dahl, a variety of ancient warlike instruments.&nbsp; In the
+next apartment are portraits of various beauties of Charles
+II.&rsquo;s court, painted by Sir Peter Lely, who has here
+depicted several lovely countenances, though a sensual character
+is common to them all.&nbsp; In the third room, or
+audience-chamber, is seen what is generally regarded as the
+finest painting in the palace&mdash;a portrait of Charles I. on
+horseback, by Vandyck.&nbsp; The third room has also some good
+pictures; among others, a painting of the family of Louis
+Cornaro, a person celebrated for his extraordinary
+temperance.&nbsp; The picture, which is from an original by
+Titian, shews Cornaro and three generations of descendants, who
+appear in the act of adoration at a shrine.&nbsp; There are
+likewise portraits of Titian and his uncle, painted by <a
+name="page151"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 151</span>Titian
+himself, and a spirited battle-piece by Giulio Romano.&nbsp; The
+fourth apartment, or Queen&rsquo;s drawing-room, is enriched with
+an exceedingly fine painting of Charles I., a whole length, by
+Vandyck, esteemed the best likeness we have of that
+monarch.&nbsp; There is a well known and beautiful print from it
+by Sir Robert Strange, the prince of English
+line-engravers.&nbsp; In the next room, or state bedchamber, the
+visitor will see a portrait of Ann Hyde, daughter of Hyde, Earl
+of Clarendon, and mother of the successive queens, Mary and
+Anne.&nbsp; The Queen&rsquo;s dressing-room and writing-closet,
+and Queen Mary&rsquo;s state bedchamber, which follow, contain
+many fine pictures, by Holbein, Sir Peter Lely, Sebastian del
+Piombo, Leonardo da Vinci, Albert Durer, and others.&nbsp; A
+series known as the Beauties of the Court of William and Mary
+comprises portraits (by Kneller) more staid than those of the
+court of Charles II., and, it must be admitted, more tame and
+dull.&nbsp; After having traversed these stately and silent
+halls, one of which contains a valuable collection of historical
+portraits, the visitor is led out through the gallery lately
+containing the famous Cartoons of Raphael&mdash;which were
+transferred in 1865 to the South Kensington Museum.&nbsp; Another
+room contains a fine series of Cartoons by Andrea Mantegna.&nbsp;
+The whole of the pictures at Hampton Court are little less than
+1000 in number.</p>
+<p>The palace garden has a <i>Vinery</i>, where there is a grape
+vine ninety years old, which has sometimes yielded 3000 bunches
+of grapes in one year.&nbsp; The garden also possesses a
+<i>Maze</i>, a source of great delight to holiday
+juveniles.&nbsp; On the opposite side of the Hampton Wick Road
+from the palace gardens, is <i>Bushy Park</i>, a royal domain,
+embellished with an avenue of horse-chestnut trees, which present
+a splendid sight when in full bloom.&nbsp; The palace grounds are
+also exceedingly beautiful.&nbsp; Bushy Park is open for
+omnibuses and other vehicles, as well as for pedestrians.&nbsp;
+The palace is open free every day except Friday, from 10 till 4
+or 6, according to the season; and the grounds or gardens till
+dusk.&nbsp; This is one of the very few public buildings in or
+near the metropolis open on Sundays.</p>
+<p><b>Windsor</b>.&mdash;Passing over the country between Hampton
+and <a name="page152"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+152</span>Windsor, which does not comprise many spots interesting
+to strangers, we come to the famous royal domain.&nbsp;
+<i>Windsor</i> is situated in the county of Berks, at the
+distance of 22 miles west from London by the road through
+Brentford; but it may now be reached in an hour or less by the
+Great Western Railway from Paddington, or the South-Western from
+Waterloo Bridge.&nbsp; Windsor occupies a rising-ground on the
+south bank of the Thames, and is interesting for its ancient and
+extensive castle, the grandest royal residence in this
+country.&nbsp; The gates of the castle are close upon the main
+street of the town, and lead to enclosures containing a number of
+quadrangles, towers, gates, mansions, barracks, and other
+structures.&nbsp; 
+<a href="images/p152b.jpg">
+<img class='clearcenter' alt=
+"Round Tower, Windsor"
+title=
+"Round Tower, Windsor"
+src="images/p152s.jpg" />
+</a>The principal portion of the castle occupies two courts, an
+upper and lower, of spacious dimensions, and having between them
+a large round tower or keep, in which the governor resides.&nbsp;
+The top of <a name="page153"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+153</span>this keep is 220 feet above the Thames, and twelve
+counties can be seen from it in fine weather.&nbsp; In the lower
+court is St. George&rsquo;s Chapel, an elegant Gothic edifice, in
+which service is performed on Sundays, occasionally in presence
+of the royal residents.&nbsp; Besides the chapel and keep, the
+chief parts of the castle attractive to strangers are the state
+apartments in the upper or northern court; these are exhibited
+<i>free</i> to visitors on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and
+Fridays.&nbsp; Tickets can be obtained of Messrs. Colnaghi, 13
+and 14 Pall Mall East.&nbsp; The days, hours, and conditions of
+visiting are notified on the tickets.&nbsp; The apartments here
+meant are the <i>old</i> state rooms, not those actually occupied
+by the Queen, her family, and retinue.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p153b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Windsor Castle"
+title=
+"Windsor Castle"
+src="images/p153s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Outside the castle, facing the north, is the famed
+<i>terrace</i>, from which a view is obtained over a most
+beautiful expanse of country.&nbsp; On another side are the new
+royal stables, the finest in England, having, with the Riding
+House, cost &pound;70,000.&nbsp; In the gardens immediately
+adjoining the Queen&rsquo;s apartments, the royal family, <a
+name="page154"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 154</span>before the
+death of the Prince Consort, were wont occasionally to promenade,
+at an hour when the public might see them.&nbsp; The <i>Home
+Park</i>, bounding the palace on two sides, is not open to the
+public; but the <i>Great Park</i> is freely open, to persons on
+foot, on horseback, or in vehicles.&nbsp; The <i>Long Walk</i>
+through this park, extending 3 miles, is one of the finest things
+of the kind in England.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p154b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Eton College"
+title=
+"Eton College"
+src="images/p154s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><i>Eton College</i>, with its school-rooms for 900 boys,
+chapel, quadrangles, and playing-fields, lies beautifully
+situated opposite Windsor Castle.</p>
+<p>A ramble from the Slough Station, near Eton, would take a
+visitor to the scenes rendered memorable by Gray&rsquo;s
+<i>Elegy</i>.</p>
+<h3>DOWN THE RIVER.</h3>
+<p><b>Deptford</b>.&mdash;This was once of some importance as a
+shipbuilding place, a dockyard having been established here ever
+since the time of Henry VIII.; but the government establishments
+have recently been given up to the victualling and store
+departments.&nbsp; Deptford <a name="page155"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 155</span>may now be considered part of the
+metropolis&mdash;and a very dirty part it is, containing few
+objects that would interest a stranger.&nbsp; Peter the Great of
+Russia studied as a shipwright at Deptford dockyard in 1698, to
+fit himself for creating a Russian navy.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p155b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Greenwich"
+title=
+"Greenwich"
+src="images/p155s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><b>Greenwich</b>.&mdash;This favourite place lies on the south
+bank of the Thames, a little below Deptford, about six miles
+below London Bridge, following the windings of the river, but
+only about four miles by railway, from the London Bridge
+Station.&nbsp; It is noted for the <i>Trafalgar</i>, <i>Ship</i>,
+<i>Crown and Sceptre</i>, and other taverns, where <i>whitebait
+dinners</i> have become celebrated.&nbsp; Diners at these places,
+however, will require long purses.&nbsp; Greenwich is chiefly
+interesting, however, for its national establishments.&nbsp;
+Towards its eastern extremity stands the <i>Hospital</i>, which
+faces the Thames, and has a command of all that passes on the
+river.&nbsp; This superb hospital consists of four edifices,
+unconnected with each other, but apparently forming an entire
+structure, lining three sides of an open square, the fourth side
+being next the water.&nbsp; It is mostly built of stone, <a
+name="page156"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 156</span>in majestic
+style; and along nearly the greater part are lofty colonnades,
+with handsome pillars, and covered overhead, to protect those
+underneath from the weather.&nbsp; The square interval in the
+centre, which is 273 feet wide, has in the middle a statue of
+George II., by Rysbrach.&nbsp; A portion of these beautiful
+buildings was originally planned by Inigo Jones, another portion
+by Sir C. Wren, and the rest by later architects.&nbsp; It was
+William and Mary who, in the year 1694, here established an
+hospital for superannuated and disabled seamen, to which purpose
+the buildings were till lately devoted.&nbsp; The institution is
+supported by the interest on &pound;2,800,000, funded property,
+the rental of estates in the north of England, and a national
+grant.&nbsp; In 1865 it accommodated about 1300 pensioners, 150
+nurses, and a variety of officers for the government of the
+place.&nbsp; The inmates were old sailors, with countenances well
+browned by tropical suns, or bleached by the tempests of the
+ocean; here one hobbling on a wooden leg, there one with an empty
+sleeve, and occasionally one with only one eye.&nbsp; Their
+clothes were of a dark-blue colour, of an antiquated
+fashion.&nbsp; Their old cocked-hats had been superseded by hats
+of more modern shape; the boatswains, or other warrant-officers,
+being allowed a yellow trimming or lace to their garments.&nbsp;
+An abundance of food was allowed, the clothing warm and
+comfortable, the accommodations in the rooms good; and each man,
+according to his rank, had from three to five shillings a-week,
+as an allowance for pocket-money.&nbsp; The outer gateway, and
+the interior parts of this establishment, were under the care of
+the pensioners themselves, who shewed the utmost attention to
+strangers, manifesting a frankness and good-nature characteristic
+of the profession of the sailor.&nbsp; Small sums were taken for
+exhibiting some of the buildings, but the money went to the
+general fund, or for the board and education of the children of
+seamen.&nbsp; The visitor did not fail to glance into the
+<i>refectory</i> and <i>kitchen</i>, which were freely open, and
+see the old men at their meals.</p>
+<p>It may seem singular thus to speak of this famous
+establishment in the <i>past</i> tense; but in truth the purpose
+of Greenwich Hospital is changed.&nbsp; By an arrangement made in
+1865, nearly all the pensioners (except sick and decrepit) have
+left the building, with a <a name="page157"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 157</span>greatly increased money-allowance;
+most of them now living with their relations or friends.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p157b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Painted Hall, Greenwich Hospital"
+title=
+"Painted Hall, Greenwich Hospital"
+src="images/p157s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>One attractive part of the establishment is the <i>Painted
+Hall</i>, in the west wing.&nbsp; It consists of a great room and
+one smaller, a vestibule, and a flight of steps.&nbsp; The
+appearance of the whole interior, on entering, is very imposing,
+the ceiling and one end being covered with paintings; and
+although these paintings, exhibiting a mixture of fantastic
+heathen gods and goddesses with royal and other portraits, are
+not in judicious taste, they serve to give a good general effect
+to the noble apartment.&nbsp; Along the walls are hung a
+collection of pictures, partly portraits of celebrated navigators
+and admirals, and partly depicting distinguished naval victories:
+each being a present to the institution by some benefactor.&nbsp;
+A good portrait of Captain Cook, by Dance, presented by Sir
+Joseph Banks, adorns the vestibule.&nbsp; <a
+name="page158"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 158</span>A number of
+portraits, by Sir Peter Lely, Dahl, Sir Godfrey Kneller, and
+others, were presented by George IV.&nbsp; There are also several
+by Sir Joshua Reynolds.&nbsp; The painted ceiling of the great
+room was executed by Sir James Thornhill in 1703 and subsequent
+years.&nbsp; It is related that, in consequence of the length of
+time he had to lie on his back painting the ceiling, the artist
+could never afterwards sit upright.&nbsp; In the smaller
+apartment are shewn several models of ships of war, admirably
+executed; the coat worn by Nelson at the battle of the Nile; the
+astrolabe of Sir Francis Drake, a curious brass instrument of
+antique fashion, used for nautical observation; and some
+interesting relics of the ill-fated voyage of Sir John
+Franklin.&nbsp; The Hall is open free to the public on Monday and
+Friday; on other days the charge is 4d.&nbsp; On Sunday it may be
+seen after morning-service.&nbsp; The <i>Chapel</i> is also worth
+a visit; it contains a fine picture by Benjamin West, the
+&lsquo;Shipwreck of St. Paul;&rsquo; and monuments to two
+admirals, by Chantrey and Behnes.&nbsp; A monument or obelisk to
+the memory of Lieutenant Bellot, who perished in one of the
+Arctic Expeditions, has been placed on the noble
+Hospital-terrace, fronting the river.</p>
+<p>The <i>Park</i>, extending behind the hospital&mdash;open free
+to the public until dusk&mdash;comprehends a considerable space
+of ground, nearly 200 acres, of great natural and artificial
+beauty.&nbsp; A pathway amidst lines of tall trees leads to a
+piece of rising-ground or mount, which, on holidays, generally
+exhibits a mirthful scene, in which &lsquo;running down Greenwich
+hill&rsquo; plays a great part.&nbsp; On the summit is the
+<i>Royal Observatory</i>, founded by George III. for the
+promotion of astronomical science, and the scene of the labours
+of some men of distinguished ability.&nbsp; An astronomer-royal,
+supported by a parliamentary grant, constantly resides and
+pursues investigations in the Observatory.&nbsp; From this spot
+British geographers measure the longitude.&nbsp; The collection
+of instruments kept and used in this building is superb and
+costly; but the public are not admitted to see them.&nbsp; An
+electric <i>time-ball</i> falls every day at one o&rsquo;clock
+precisely; and an <i>electric clock</i>, a <i>standard
+barometer</i>, and <i>standard measures of length</i>, (of
+rigorous accuracy,) are placed for public use by the side of the
+entrance-gates.</p>
+<p><a name="page159"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+159</span><b>Limehouse to North Woolwich</b>.&mdash;If a stranger
+be willing to lay aside the ideas of mere <i>pleasure</i> spots,
+he will find much to look at and think about in the stretch of
+river margin here denoted.&nbsp; First comes the <i>Isle of
+Dogs</i>, joining Limehouse on the east.&nbsp; This strange
+horseshoe-shaped piece of ground is almost wholly below the level
+of the river, the inroads of which are only prevented by
+embankments.&nbsp; The northern neck of the peninsula (for it is
+not strictly an island) is occupied by the West India Docks; the
+middle portion is not much appropriated to any useful purpose, on
+account of the lowness of the site; the river edge is fringed
+with shipbuilding and factory establishments.&nbsp; The <i>Great
+Eastern</i> was here built at Messrs. Scott Russell&rsquo;s
+works.&nbsp; A new church has been built at <i>Cubitt Town</i>,
+the name now given to the eastern part of the Isle.&nbsp; Next
+below the Isle of Dogs are <i>Poplar</i> and <i>Blackwall</i>,
+now forming one town&mdash;observable for the shipyard of Messrs.
+Green, the terminus of the Blackwall Railway, the East India
+Docks, and two or three river-side taverns where <i>whitebait
+dinners</i> are much in fashion during the season.&nbsp; Then
+comes the spot, Bow Creek, at which the River Lea enters the
+Thames, so closely hemmed in by shipyards and engine-factories,
+that the Lea itself can barely be seen.&nbsp; The great shipyard
+of the Thames Company, late Messrs. Mare&rsquo;s, is situated
+here.&nbsp; Next we come to the extensive and convenient
+<i>Victoria Docks</i>, occupying ground which was previously mere
+waste.&nbsp; Beyond the Docks are new centres of population
+gradually springing up, called <i>Silvertown</i> and <i>North
+Woolwich</i>, with large factories and a railway station.&nbsp;
+Still farther east, near <i>Barking Creek</i>, there may be seen
+the vast outfall of the great system of drainage for the northern
+half of the metropolis.</p>
+<p><b>Woolwich</b>.&mdash;Taking the south side of the river
+instead of the north, and availing himself of steamers or of
+trains, (from Charing Cross, Fenchurch Street, or Shoreditch,)
+the stranger finds the next place of importance below Greenwich
+to be <i>Woolwich</i>.&nbsp; This is a busy town in Kent, eight
+miles from London by land, and ten following the course of the
+river.&nbsp; Here, in the reign of Henry VIII., a dockyard for
+the construction of vessels of the royal navy was established;
+and ever since that time the place has been <a
+name="page160"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+160</span>distinguished as an arsenal for naval and military
+stores.&nbsp; The dockyard was closed 1st October, 1869.&nbsp;
+From the river, a view is obtained of the arsenal, now greatly
+improved.&nbsp; The ground of the arsenal, for nearly a mile in
+length, is bounded on the river side by a stone quay, and is
+occupied in part by prodigious ranges of storehouses and
+workshops.&nbsp; Among these is included a laboratory for the
+preparation of cartridges, bombs, grenades, and shot; a splendid
+manufactory for shells and guns; a gun-carriage factory of vast
+extent; and a store of warlike material that never fails to fill
+a stranger with amazement.&nbsp; Adjoining are barracks for
+artillery and marines, military hospitals, &amp;c.&nbsp; On the
+upper part of Woolwich Common is situated a royal military
+academy for the education of young gentlemen designed for the
+army.&nbsp; Strangers (if not foreigners) are admitted to the
+arsenal only by a written order from the War Office.&nbsp; The
+number of government establishments in and near Woolwich is very
+large; and there is generally something or other going on which a
+stranger would be interested in seeing.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p160b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Woolwich"
+title=
+"Woolwich"
+src="images/p160s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><a name="page161"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+161</span><b>Below Woolwich</b>.&mdash;Numerous steamers during
+the day, trains on the Tilbury Railway, and others on the North
+Kent Railway, give easy access to a number of pleasant places
+lower down the river than Woolwich.&nbsp; On the Essex side are
+<i>Rainham</i>, near which onion gardens are kept up;
+<i>Purfleet</i>, where vast stores of government gunpowder are
+kept; <i>Grays</i>, where immense quantities of chalk are dug,
+and where copious springs of very pure water are found in the
+chalk beds; and <i>Tilbury</i>, where there is a regular
+fortification for the defence of the river, and a steam-ferry
+over to Gravesend.&nbsp; 
+<a href="images/p161b.jpg">
+<img class='clearcenter' alt=
+"Tilbury Fort"
+title=
+"Tilbury Fort"
+src="images/p161s.jpg" />
+</a>On the Kent side are <i>Plumstead Marshes</i>, where
+artillery practice by Woolwich officers is carried on;
+<i>Crossness Point</i>, where the fine buildings connected with
+the Southern Outfall Sewer are situated, (and near which were the
+great Powder Magazines that blew up in October, 1864;)
+<i>Erith</i>, with its pretty wooded heights; <i>Greenhithe</i>,
+where the late General Havelock passed some of his early years,
+and where Alderman Harmer built a mansion with the stones of old
+London Bridge; and <i>Northfleet</i>, where much shipbuilding is
+carried on.&nbsp; Beyond Northfleet is <i>Gravesend</i>, a famous
+place for Cockney picnics, but fast losing its rural
+character.&nbsp; Commercially, Gravesend is important as being <a
+name="page162"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 162</span>the place
+where the customs&rsquo; authorities recognise the port of London
+to begin; all ships, incoming and outgoing, are visited by the
+officers here, pilots embark and disembark, and much trade
+accrues to the town in consequence.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p162b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Gravesend Reach"
+title=
+"Gravesend Reach"
+src="images/p162s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h3>CRYSTAL PALACE, &amp;c.</h3>
+<p>There are many pretty spots in different directions in the
+vicinity of London, away from the river, worthy of a visit.&nbsp;
+On the north-west are <i>Hampstead</i>, with its noble Heath and
+its charming variety of landscape scenery; and <i>Harrow</i>,
+with its famous old school, associated with the memory of Byron,
+Peel, and many other eminent men.&nbsp; To its churchyard Byron
+was a frequent visitor: &ldquo;There is,&rdquo; he wrote to a
+friend in after years, &ldquo;a spot in the churchyard, near the
+footpath on the brow of the hill looking towards Windsor, and a
+tomb (bearing the name of Peachey) under a large tree, where I
+used to sit for hours and hours when a boy.&rdquo;&nbsp; Nearly
+northward are <i>Highgate</i>, with its fringe of woods, and its
+remarkable series of ponds; <i>Finchley</i>, once celebrated for
+its highwaymen, but now for its cemeteries; <i>Hornsey</i>, with
+its ivy-clad church, and its pretty winding New River; and
+<i>Barnet</i>, with its great annual fair.&nbsp; <a
+name="page163"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 163</span>On the
+north-east are <i>Edmonton</i>, which the readers of
+&lsquo;<i>John Gilpin</i>&rsquo; will of course never forget;
+<i>Enfield</i>, where the government manufacture rifles on a vast
+scale; <i>Waltham</i>, notable for its abbey and its gunpowder
+mills; and <i>Epping Forest</i>&mdash;a boon to picnic parties
+from the eastern half of London.&nbsp; &lsquo;Fairlop Oak&rsquo;
+(Hainault Forest) has disappeared.</p>
+<p>South of the Thames, likewise, there are many pretty spots,
+quite distinct from those on the river&rsquo;s bank.&nbsp;
+<i>Wimbledon</i>, where volunteers assemble; <i>Mitcham</i>, near
+which are some interesting herb-gardens; <i>Norwood</i>, a
+pleasant spot, from which London can be well seen;
+<i>Lewisham</i> and <i>Bromley</i>, surrounded by many pretty
+bits of scenery; <i>Blackheath</i>, a famous place for golf and
+other outdoor games; <i>Eltham</i>, where a bit of King
+John&rsquo;s palace is still to be seen; the <i>Crays</i>, a
+string of picturesque villages on the banks of the river Cray;
+&amp;c.&nbsp; <i>Dulwich</i> is a village about 5 miles south of
+London Bridge.&nbsp; Here Edward Alleyn, or Allen, a
+distinguished actor in the reign of James I., founded and endowed
+an hospital or college, called <i>Dulwich College</i>, for the
+residence and support of poor persons, under certain
+limitations.&nbsp; On 21st June, 1870, a new college, a modern
+development and extension of the old charity, was formally opened
+by the Prince and Princess of Wales.&nbsp; The new buildings are
+entirely devoted to educational purposes, and they have
+accommodation for 600 or 700 boys.&nbsp; The founder bequeathed
+some pictures to the institution, and the collection was vastly
+increased by the addition of a large number, chiefly of the Dutch
+and Flemish schools, bequeathed in 1810 by Sir Francis
+Bourgeois.&nbsp; A gallery, designed by Sir John Soane, was
+opened in 1817; and this now forms a most attractive sight to all
+who delight in the fine arts.&nbsp; The gallery is open free
+every week-day from 10 to 5 in summer, and from 10 to 4 in
+winter.</p>
+<p><b>Crystal Palace</b>.&mdash;One especial object of interest
+in the southern vicinity of London is the far-famed <i>Crystal
+Palace</i>.&nbsp; This structure, in many respects one of the
+most remarkable in the world, owed its existence to the Great
+Exhibition of 1851 in Hyde Park.&nbsp; The materials of that
+building being sold to a new company towards the close of that
+year, were transferred to an elevated spot near Sydenham, <a
+name="page164"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 164</span>about 7
+miles from London.&nbsp; The intention was to found a palace and
+park for the exhibition of objects in art and science, and to
+make it self-paying.&nbsp; The original estimate was
+&pound;500,000, but the expenditure reached nearly
+&pound;1,500,000&mdash;too great to render a profitable return
+likely.&nbsp; The palace and grounds were opened in 1854; the
+water-towers and great fountains some time afterwards.&nbsp; The
+marvels of this unparalleled structure cannot be described within
+a limited space.&nbsp; 
+<a href="images/p164b.jpg">
+<img class='clearcenter' alt=
+"Crystal Palace"
+title=
+"Crystal Palace"
+src="images/p164s.jpg" />
+</a>The building is about 1600 feet long, 380 wide, and, at the
+centre transept, nearly 200 high.&nbsp; It consists of a nave and
+three transepts, all with arched roofs, and all made chiefly of
+iron and glass.&nbsp; Within, the building consists of a central
+nave, having marble fountains near the two ends, and lined with
+statues and plants throughout its whole length.&nbsp; On each
+side of the nave are compartments to illustrate the sculpture and
+architecture of different ages and countries; such as Greek,
+Roman, Assyrian, Pompeian, Egyptian, Alhambraic or Saracenic,
+Romanesque, Byzantine, <a name="page165"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 165</span>Medi&aelig;val, in its English,
+French, and German varieties, Renaissance, Palladian, and
+Elizabethan.&nbsp; Other compartments illustrate certain
+industrial groups, such as cutlery, porcelain, paper, encaustic
+tiles, &amp;c.&nbsp; On the first gallery are large collections
+of pictures, photographs, and casts from medallions and small
+works of art.&nbsp; Near the centre transept are all the
+necessary arrangements for two concert-rooms&mdash;one on a
+stupendous scale, in which 5000 singers and instrumentalists can
+sometimes be heard at once.&nbsp; 
+<a href="images/p165b.jpg">
+<img class='clearcenter' alt=
+"Interior, Crystal Palace"
+title=
+"Interior, Crystal Palace"
+src="images/p165s.jpg" />
+</a>An orchestra of unparalleled dimensions is constructed here
+for great festival commemorations, and similar musical
+meetings.&nbsp; The botanical collection within the building is
+very fine; and to preserve the exotic plants, one end of the
+building is maintained at a high temperature all the year
+round.&nbsp; Some portions of the galleries are let out as stalls
+or bazaars to shopkeepers; and very extensive arrangements are
+made for supplying refreshments.&nbsp; In an upper gallery is a
+museum of raw produce.&nbsp; In long galleries in the basement <a
+name="page166"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 166</span>are
+exhibited agricultural implements, and cotton and other machinery
+in motion.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p166b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Crystal Palace Fountains"
+title=
+"Crystal Palace Fountains"
+src="images/p166s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>The park and gardens are extensive, occupying nearly 200
+acres; they are beautifully arranged, and contain an extremely
+fine collection of flowers and other plants, occupying parterres
+separated by broad gravel-walks.&nbsp; The terraces, stone
+balustrades, wide steps, and sculptures, are all on a very grand
+scale.&nbsp; The fountains are perhaps the finest in the world,
+some of them sending up magnificent streams of water to a great
+height, and some displaying thousands of minute glittering jets
+interlacing in the most graceful manner.&nbsp; A portion of the
+water is made to imitate cascades and waterfalls.&nbsp; The jet
+from the central basin rises to 150 feet; and those from the two
+great basins to 250 feet.&nbsp; There are two cascades, each 450
+feet long, 100 wide, and having a tall of 12 feet.&nbsp; When the
+whole of the waterworks are playing, there are 12,000 jets in
+all; and when this continues for the length of time customary on
+some of the &lsquo;grand days,&rsquo; the water consumed is said
+to amount to 6,000,000 <a name="page167"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 167</span>gallons.&nbsp; Two water-towers of
+enormous height, (nearly 300 feet from the foundations,) to which
+water is pumped up by steam-engines, supply the water-pressure by
+which the fountains are fed.&nbsp; The illustrations of extinct
+animals and of geology, in the lower part of the grounds, are
+curious and instructive.</p>
+<p>Railway trains, running frequently during the day, give access
+to the Crystal Palace, from the Pimlico and London Bridge
+stations of the Brighton Company, from the Kensington and Chelsea
+stations of the West London Railway, from the Waterloo station of
+the South-Western <i>vi&acirc;</i> Wimbledon, and from the
+Ludgate Hill and other stations of the Chatham and Dover.&nbsp;
+The last-named company have built an elegant and convenient
+&lsquo;high-level&rsquo; station, in front of the main centre
+transept.&nbsp; The Crystal Palace is a shilling exhibition; but
+the greater number of visitors only pay 1s. 6d. each for a ticket
+(third class) which insures admission to the palace and grounds,
+and the railway journey there and back; first and second class
+tickets are higher; and there are days on which admission to the
+palace is also higher.&nbsp; A whole week might be spent in
+examining the various treasures; for the Crystal Palace and
+grounds are interesting in each of the following
+features:&mdash;Sculpture; Illustrations of Architecture;
+Pictures and Photographs; Illustrations of Mechanics and
+Manufactures; Botany; Ethnology, or Illustrations of National
+Characteristics; Pal&aelig;ontology, or Extinct Animals; Geology;
+Hydraulic skill in the Fountains; and Musical facilities of an
+unprecedented kind.&nbsp; There are also facilities in the
+grounds for Cricket, Archery, Boating, Athletic Exercises, and
+Sports of other kinds, either regularly or occasionally.&nbsp;
+The directors must be credited with the undoubted excellence of
+their Choral Festivals and Orchestral Concerts.&nbsp; For great
+holiday demonstrations, too, there is nothing else at all equal
+to the Crystal Palace in the kingdom; and railways give access to
+it from almost every part of the metropolis.</p>
+<p><b>Alexandra Park and Palace</b>.&mdash;This is situated on
+the north side of London, near Hornsey, and is reached by means
+of the Great Northern Railway.&nbsp; It has long remained closed
+for want of funds, but is expected to be opened in June.&nbsp;
+Its objects, &amp;c., are similar <a name="page168"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 168</span>to those of the Crystal
+Palace.&nbsp; The building was erected from the remains of the
+Exhibition of 1862.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p168ab.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Albert Memorial"
+title=
+"Albert Memorial"
+src="images/p168as.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p168bb.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"London Stone.  Supposed to be an ancient Roman terminal stone,
+whence, as from a centre, the miles were reckoned throughout
+Britain."
+title=
+"London Stone.  Supposed to be an ancient Roman terminal stone,
+whence, as from a centre, the miles were reckoned throughout
+Britain."
+src="images/p168bs.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2><a name="page169"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+169</span>APPENDIX.<br />
+<span class="GutSmall">TABLES, LISTS, AND USEFUL
+HINTS.</span></h2>
+<h3>Suburban Towns and Villages within Twelve Miles&rsquo;
+Railway-distance.</h3>
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> distances are measured from the
+terminal stations of the great Companies&rsquo; lines.&nbsp; The
+names of these stations are abbreviated thus:</p>
+<p><i>Padd.</i>&mdash;Paddington; Great Western.</p>
+<p><i>Eust.</i>&mdash;Euston Square; London and North
+Western.</p>
+<p><i>K. C.</i>&mdash;King&rsquo;s Cross; Great Northern.</p>
+<p><i>Shore.</i>&mdash;Shoreditch; Great Eastern.</p>
+<p><i>Fen.</i>&mdash;Fenchurch Street; London and Blackwall.</p>
+<p><i>L. B.</i>&mdash;London Bridge; South-Eastern, and London
+and Brighton.</p>
+<p><i>Wat.</i>&mdash;Waterloo; London and South-Western.</p>
+<p><i>Vic.</i>&mdash;Victoria or Pimlico; Crystal Palace and
+other railways.</p>
+<p><i>N. L.</i>&mdash;North London.</p>
+<p><i>Lud.</i>&mdash;Ludgate Hill; London, Chatham, and
+Dover.</p>
+<p><i>St. Panc.</i>&mdash;St. Pancras; Midland.</p>
+<p>The places accommodated by the North London Railway have no
+mileage distances named; for all the stations on that line are
+equally within the metropolitan limits.&nbsp; The Metropolitan
+Railway is not here mentioned at all, for a similar reason.&nbsp;
+For all stations on the South-Eastern, the distance from Charing
+Cross is about 1&frac34; miles farther than from London
+Bridge.&nbsp; On the Chatham and Dover, most of the stations are
+about equidistant from the Ludgate and Victoria termini.&nbsp;
+The places reached by steamers are marked <i>St.</i>; while
+<i>Om.</i> signifies Omnibus, in cases where there is no very
+available railway route.&nbsp; When a town is some little
+distance from the nearest station, two mileages are named: thus,
+&lsquo;Beddington, 10&frac12; Croydon + 2&frac12;,&rsquo; implies
+that after a railway journey of 10&frac12; miles to Croydon,
+there are 2&frac12; miles of road.</p>
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Abbey Wood, Kent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>12</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3"><p>Acton, Midd. from all N. L. Stations.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Anerley, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>7&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Balham, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Vic.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>5</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>11</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Barking, Essex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Shore. &amp; Fen.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>7</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Barking Road, Essex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Shore. &amp; Fen.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>5</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Barnes, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wat.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>7</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3"><p>&mdash;, from all N. L Stations.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Barnet, Herts.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>K. C.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>10&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Battersea, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>St. &amp; Om.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Battersea Park</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Vic.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>1</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Beckenham, Kent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>9</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Lud. &amp; Vic.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>10</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Beddington, Surr.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>10&frac12; Croydon +2&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Bickley, Kent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Lud. &amp; Vic.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>13</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>12</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Blackheath, Kent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>6</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><a name="page170"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+170</span>Blackwall, Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Fen.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>4&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>St. &amp; Om.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Bow, Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Fen. &amp; Shore</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>4</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Brentford, Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wat.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>10</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Padd.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>13</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Brixton, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Vic.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>3</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Lud.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>4</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Bromley, Kent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>10</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Lud. &amp; Vic.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>11</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;, Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Fen.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>4</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Buckhurst Hill, Essex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Fen. &amp; Shore.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>10</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Bushey Park, Midd.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wat.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>13</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Camberwell, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Lud. &amp; Vic.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>4</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Carshalton, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>12</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Catford Bridge, Kent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>6</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Charlton, Kent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>7</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>St.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Chelsea, Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>St. &amp; Om.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Chigwell, Essex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Fen. &amp; Shore, to Ilford or Woodford.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Chiswick, Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wat.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>8</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Clapham, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wat.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>4</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Vic.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>2&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3"><p>Clapton, Midd., from all N. L. Stations to
+Hackney.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Colney Hatch, Midd.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>K. C.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>6</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Crouch End, Midd.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>K. C.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>4 Hornsey + 1&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Croydon, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>10&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Vic.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>12</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Crystal Palace, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>7</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Vic.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>9</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Lud.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>9</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3"><p>Dalston, Middlesex, all N. L. Stations.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Deptford, Kent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>3&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Ditton, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wat.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>12 Kingston + 2</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Dulwich, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Lud. &amp; Vic.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>5</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Ealing, Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Padd.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>6</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>East Ham, Essex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Fen.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>6</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Edgeware, Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>K. C. &amp; Om.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>8&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Edmonton, Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Shore.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>9&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Elstree, Herts</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>St. Panc. &amp; Om.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>11</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Eltham, Kent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>6 Blackheath + 2</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Enfield, Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Shore.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>12</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3"><p>Finchley, Middlesex, from all N. L. Stations
+to Finchley Road.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>K. C.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>7&frac14;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Forest Gate, Essex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Shore.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>5</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Forest Hill, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Vic.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>11</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>5</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Fulham, Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wat.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>6 Putney + &frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>St. &amp; Om.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Gipsy Hill, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>8</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Vic.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>8</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Greenwich, Kent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>4&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>St. &amp; Om.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3"><p>Hackney, Midd., from all N. L. Stations.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Hadley, Midd.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>K. C.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>10 Barnet + 1</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Ham, Surrey,</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wat.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>12 Kingston + 2</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3"><p>Hammersmith, Midd., from all N. L. and
+Metropolitan Stations.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>St. &amp; Om.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3"><p>Hampstead, Midd., from all N. L. Stations.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Hanwell, Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Padd.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>7&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Harlington, Midd.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Padd.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>9 Southall + 3&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Harrow, Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Eust.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>12</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Hatcham, Kent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>4</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Hayes, Kent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>10 Bromley + 2</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;, Midd.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Padd.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>7 Hanwell + 3</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Hendon, Midd.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>St. Panc. &amp; Om</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>7</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Herne Hill, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Lud. &amp; Vic.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>6</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Highgate, Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>K. C.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>4&frac34;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Om.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Holloway, Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>K. C.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>2</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3"><p>Homerton, Midd., from all N. L. Stations to
+Hackney.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Hornsey, Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>K. C.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>4</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Hounslow, Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wat.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>12</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Ilford, Essex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Shore.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>7</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Isleworth, Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wat.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>12</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3"><p>Kensal Green, Midd., from N. L. Stations.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3"><p>Kensington, Midd., from Metrop Stats.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3"><p>Kentish Town, Middlesex from all N. L.
+Stations.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Keston, Kent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>10 Bromley + 4</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Kew, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wat.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>9</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3"><p>&mdash;, from all N. L. Stations.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>St. &amp; Om.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Kilburn, Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Eust.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>3</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3"><p>Kingsland, Midd., from all N. L. Stations.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Kingston, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wat.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>12</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Lady Well, Kent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>5</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Lea Bridge, Essex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Shore.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>5&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Lee, Kent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>6 Blackheath + 1</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Lewisham, Kent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>5</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Leytonstone, Essex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Shore. &amp; Fen.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>6</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Loughton, Essex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Shore. &amp; Fen.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>12</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Low Leyton, Essex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Shore. &amp; Fen.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>5</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Maldon, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wat.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>10</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Merton, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wat.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>9</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Mill Hill, Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>K. C.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>8&frac14;; Om. 7</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Mims, Midd.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>K. C.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>12 Potter&rsquo;s Bar + 2</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Mitcham, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wat.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>10</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>10&frac12; Croydon + 4</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Morden, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wat.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>8 Wimbledon + 2</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Mortlake, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wat.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>8</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Muswell Hill, Midd.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>K. C.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>4 Hornsey + 1&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>New Cross, Kent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>3</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>North Woolwich, Ess.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Shore. &amp; Fen.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>7</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>St.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Norwood, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>8&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Vic.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>8</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Parson&rsquo;s Green, Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Om.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>4</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Peckham, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Lud.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>5</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Penge, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>7</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Lud. &amp; Vic.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>9</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Plaistow, Essex.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Fen.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>5</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Plumstead, Kent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>10</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><a name="page171"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+171</span>Ponders&rsquo;s End, Midd.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Shore.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>12</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Poplar, Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Fen.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>4</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Potters&rsquo;s Bar, Midd.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>K. C.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>12</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Putney, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wat.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>6</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>St. &amp; Om.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Richmond, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wat.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>10</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3"><p>&mdash; from all N. L. Stations.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>St. &amp; Om.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Roehampton, Surr.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wat.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>6 Putney + 1&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Romford, Essex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Shore.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>12</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Shacklewell, Midd.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Om.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>3</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Shepherd&rsquo;s Bush, Midd.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Metrop.&nbsp; Stats.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Shooter&rsquo;s Hill, Kent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>9 Woolwich + 2</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Shortlands, Kent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>10</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Lud. &amp; Vic.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>10</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Snaresbrook, Essex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Fen. &amp; Shore.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>7</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Southall, Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Padd.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>9</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Southgate, Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>K. C.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>7</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Stamford Hill, Midd.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Om.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>4</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Stanmore, Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Om.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>10</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3"><p>Stepney, Midd. from all N. L. Stations.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Stockwell, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Om.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>4</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3"><p>Stoke Newington, Midd. from all N. L.
+Stations.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Stratford, Essex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Shore. &amp; Fen.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>4</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Streatham, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>10</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Vic.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>6</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Teddington, and Bushey Park</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wat.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>13</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Thornton Heath, Surr.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Vic.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>9</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Tooting, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B., Vic. &amp; Lud.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>8</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Tottenham, Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Shore.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>8</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Totteridge, Herts.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>K. C.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>10&frac12; Barnet + 2</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Turnham Green, Midd.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Om.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>5</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3"><p>&mdash; from all N. L. Stations, Wat. and
+Lud.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Twickenham, Midd.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wat.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>11&frac14;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3"><p>&mdash; from all N. L. Stations.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Vauxhall, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wat.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>1&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>St.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Walham Green, Midd.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Om.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>3</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Walthamstow, Essex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Shore., Station at Lea Bridge</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>5&frac34;, and Om.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Wandsworth, Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wat.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>5</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Vic.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>2</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Wanstead, Essex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Shore. &amp; Fen, Snaresbrook Station.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Welling, Kent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>9 Woolwich + 2&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>West Ham, Essex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Fen.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>4</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>West Wickham, Surr.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>10&frac12; Croydon + 4</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Whetstone, Midd.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>K. C.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>6 Colney Hatch + 2</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Willesden, Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Eust.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>6&frac12;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Wimbledon, Surrey,</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wat.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>7</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Woodford, Essex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Shore. &amp; Fen.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>9</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Wood Green, Midd.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>K. C.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>5</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Woolwich Dockyard, Kent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>8</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash; Arsenal</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>L. B.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>9</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;&mdash;Dockyard and Arsenal</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>St.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<h3>CHIEF OMNIBUS ROUTES.</h3>
+<p>There are few better ways for a man to see London, on a fine
+day, than by riding through it on an omnibus.&nbsp; These
+vehicles mostly begin to run about 8.30&ndash;9 a.m., and cease
+about 12 p.m.&nbsp; To give more than a mere general notion as
+regards a few of the chief omnibus routes, is impossible in our
+limited space here.&nbsp; The fares range, for the most part,
+from a minimum of 2d. to a maximum of 6d.&nbsp; They are painted
+inside the omnibus: the main localities passed on the way,
+outside.&nbsp; The groups of these conveyances known by
+distinctive <i>names</i>, (all the omnibuses of each group having
+one common name,) are chiefly the following:&mdash;</p>
+<p><i>Atlas</i>&mdash;colour, green&mdash;running between St.
+John&rsquo;s Wood and Camberwell Gate, and <i>vice versa</i>,
+<i>via</i> Oxford Street, and over Westminster Bridge&mdash;every
+5 minutes.</p>
+<p><i>City Atlas</i>&mdash;green&mdash;between Swiss Cottage, St.
+John&rsquo;s Wood, and London Bridge Station, and <i>vice
+versa</i>, <i>via</i> Oxford St., Holborn, Bank&mdash;every 7
+minutes.</p>
+<p><i>Bayswater</i>&mdash;light green&mdash;from Notting Hill and
+Bayswater to Mile-End <a name="page172"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 172</span>Gate, <i>via</i> Oxford Street,
+Holborn, Cornhill, Whitechapel&mdash;every 6 minutes.</p>
+<p><i>Bayswater</i> to <i>London Bridge Station</i>, <i>via</i>
+Oxford Street, Holborn, Cheapside&mdash;every few minutes.</p>
+<p><i>Bayswater</i> to <i>Shoreditch Station</i>&mdash;Oxford
+Street, Holborn, Cheapside, Threadneedle Street, Bishopsgate
+Street&mdash;every hour.</p>
+<p><i>Citizen</i>&mdash;<i>Paddington</i> to <i>London Bridge
+Station</i>&mdash;Edgeware Road, (only,) Oxford Street, Holborn,
+Bank&mdash;every 8 minutes.</p>
+<p>Other omnibuses also run to and from Paddington, as
+follows:&mdash;</p>
+<p><i>Paddington</i> to <i>London Bridge
+Station</i>&mdash;green&mdash;Royal Oak, Edgeware Road, New Road,
+City Road, Bank&mdash;every 10 minutes.</p>
+<p><i>Paddington</i> to <i>Fenchurch Station</i>&mdash;Some of
+the above go to Fenchurch instead of London Bridge Station.</p>
+<p><i>Paddington</i> to <i>Whitechapel</i>&mdash;green&mdash;as
+above to Bank, then Cornhill and Aldgate&mdash;frequent.</p>
+<p><i>Paddington</i> to <i>Charing
+Cross</i>&mdash;red&mdash;Edgeware Road, Oxford and Regent
+Streets, Charing Cross&mdash;every 8 minutes.</p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p><i>Favorite</i>&mdash;green&mdash;Holloway to London Bridge,
+<i>via</i> Highbury, Islington, City Road, Bank, King William
+Street&mdash;about every 8 minutes.</p>
+<p><i>Favorite</i>&mdash;green&mdash;Holloway to Westminster,
+Islington, Exmouth Street, Chancery Lane, Westminster Abbey,
+Victoria Street.</p>
+<p><i>Favorite</i>&mdash;blue&mdash;Holloway Road, Caledonian
+Road, King&rsquo;s Cross, Euston Road, Portland Road, Regent
+Street, Piccadilly, Knightsbridge, South Kensington, Museum,
+&ldquo;Queen&rsquo;s Elm&rdquo;&mdash;every 9 minutes.</p>
+<p><i>Havelock</i>&mdash;Kingsland Gate to &ldquo;Elephant and
+Castle,&rdquo; <i>via</i> Shoreditch, Bishopsgate Street, London
+Bridge, Borough&mdash;at frequent intervals.</p>
+<p><i>Paragon</i>&mdash;green&mdash;Brixton to Gracechurch
+Street, Kensington, &ldquo;Elephant and Castle,&rdquo; London
+Bridge&mdash;every 10 minutes.</p>
+<p><i>Buxton</i> to <i>Oxford Street</i>&mdash;Kensington,
+Westminster Bridge, Charing Cross, Regent Street&mdash;every half
+hour.</p>
+<p><i>Royal Blue</i>&mdash;blue&mdash;Pimlico, Piccadilly,
+Strand, Cheapside, Fenchurch Street Station&mdash;every 8 or 10
+minutes.</p>
+<p><i>Waterloo</i>&mdash;blue&mdash;from &ldquo;York and
+Albany,&rdquo; Regent&rsquo;s Park, by Albany Street, Regent
+Street, Westminster Bridge, &ldquo;Elephant and Castle&rdquo; to
+Camberwell Gate&mdash;every 6 minutes.</p>
+<p><i>Westminster</i>&mdash;brown&mdash;Pimlico to Bank,
+<i>via</i> Lupus Street, Vauxhall Bridge Road, Westminster,
+Strand, &amp;c.&mdash;every 6 minutes.</p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>Such are a few of the numerous omnibus routes of London.&nbsp;
+From such places as Charing Cross and the London Bridge Stations,
+you can get an omnibus for almost any part of London, up till
+nearly midnight; while, by the aid of a map, no matter in what
+quarter you may be, you will speedily <a name="page173"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 173</span>find out how best to consult your
+particular tastes in the way of locomotion and
+sight-seeing.&nbsp; In the case of gross incivility or
+overcharge, you have a simple remedy by taking the
+conductor&rsquo;s number and applying for a summons at the
+nearest police office.&nbsp; If you are curious in the matter of
+social contrasts, say, you might do worse than by getting up
+outside a <i>Stratford and Bow</i> (green) omnibus, at the Oxford
+Street Circus, and riding&mdash;for sixpence all the
+way&mdash;<i>via</i> Regent Street, Pall Mall, Trafalgar Square,
+Strand, Fleet Street, St. Paul&rsquo;s, past the Mansion House
+and the Bank, Royal Exchange, Cornhill, Leadenhall Street,
+Aldgate, Whitechapel Road, Mile End, to Stratford.&nbsp; If your
+tastes should lead you westward, an enjoyable shilling&rsquo;s
+worth may be obtained by riding on the <i>Richmond</i> (white)
+omnibus, from St. Paul&rsquo;s Churchyard to that prettily
+situated little town.</p>
+<h3>LONDON TRAMWAYS.</h3>
+<p>There are now <i>three</i> Tramway Companies in
+London:&mdash;1.&nbsp; <i>The Metropolitan Street Tramways
+Company</i>, (<i>Limited</i>.)&nbsp; They run regularly from
+Westminster Bridge to Clapham and Brixton, at about every 5
+minutes from each terminus, Fare 3d.&nbsp; 2.&nbsp; <i>North
+Metropolitan Tramways Company</i>: (1) From Aldgate, along
+Whitechapel and Mile End Road (through Bow) to Stratford Church;
+(2) From Moorgate Street to the Angel, Islington, thence to
+Kingsland, Stoke Newington, &amp;c.&nbsp; Both running every 5
+minutes, Fares 2d.; (3) another route is by Old Street to Stoke
+Newington and Clapton.&nbsp; 3.&nbsp; <i>Southall</i>,
+<i>Ealing</i>, <i>and Shepherd&rsquo;s Bush Tram Railway
+Company</i>, (<i>Limited</i>.)&nbsp; This company is constructing
+lines in the western suburbs of London.&nbsp; There are tramways
+in the north-west of town.</p>
+<h3>CLUBS AND CLUB HOUSES.</h3>
+<p>There are, in all, in London, about ninety.&nbsp; The
+following is a list of the principal club-houses:&mdash;</p>
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Alpine</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>St. Martin&rsquo;s Place, Trafalgar Square.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Army and Navy</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">36 to 39</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Pall Mall, S. W.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Arthur&rsquo;s</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">69 and 70</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>St. James&rsquo;s Street.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Arundel</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Salisbury Street, Strand.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Athen&aelig;um</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">107</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Pall Mall.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Brooks&rsquo;s</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">59</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>St. James&rsquo;s Street.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Carlton</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">94</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Pall Mall.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>City Carlton</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">83</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>King William Street, E.C.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Cavendish</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">307</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Regent Street.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>City of London</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">19</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Old Broad Street, City.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><a name="page174"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+174</span>Conservative</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">74</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>St. James&rsquo;s Street.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>East India United Service</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>St. James&rsquo;s Square.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Garrick</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">13&ndash;15</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Garrick Street, Covent Garden.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Gresham</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">1</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Gresham Place, City.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Guards&rsquo;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">70</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Pall Mall.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Junior Athen&aelig;um</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">29</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>King Street, St. James&rsquo;s.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Junior Carlton</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">30 to 35</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Pall Mall.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Junior United Service</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">11 and 12</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Charles Street, St. James&rsquo;s.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Junior Army and Navy</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">13</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Grafton Street, Bond Street.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Naval and Military</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">94</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Piccadilly.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>New University</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">57</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>St. James&rsquo;s Street.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Oriental</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Hanover Square.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Oxford and Cambridge University</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">71 to 76</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Pall Mall.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Portland</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">1</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Stratford Place, Oxford Street.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Pratt&rsquo;s</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Park Place, St. James&rsquo;s.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Reform</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">104</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Pall Mall.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Smithfield</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">47</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Halfmoon Street, Piccadilly.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>St. James&rsquo;s</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">106</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Piccadilly.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Travellers&rsquo;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">106</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Pall Mall.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Union</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Trafalgar Square, (S.W. Corner.)</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>United Service</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">116 and 117</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Pall Mall.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>United University</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Pall Mall, East.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Westminster</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">23</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Albemarle Street.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Whitehall</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Parliament Street.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>White&rsquo;s</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">37 and 38</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>St. James&rsquo;s Street.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Windham</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">11</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>St. James&rsquo;s Square.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<h3>THE LONDON PARCELS DELIVERY COMPANY.</h3>
+<p>This Company&mdash;whose chief office is in Roll&rsquo;s
+Buildings, Fetter Lane, Fleet Street, and whose minor receiving
+houses, at shops, &amp;c., are very numerous&mdash;delivers
+parcels at a tariff of 4d. if under 4 lbs. weight, and within
+three miles distance; under 14 lbs. within a like range, 6d.; and
+so on up to a cwt., which will be delivered for 1s. 2d., subject
+to the aforesaid condition.&nbsp; Over three miles distance, the
+charge for delivering a parcel under 1 lb. to any part of London
+and its environs will be 4d., under 7 lbs., 6d., and so
+forth.&nbsp; For a parcel under 112 lbs., if carried beyond three
+miles, sender will be charged 1s. 6d.&nbsp; To more distant
+places, minimum charge is 6d.&nbsp; Light but bulky packages
+charged for by measurement.&nbsp; The Company does not undertake
+to <i>collect</i> parcels from the houses of the senders.</p>
+<h3><a name="page175"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+175</span>MONEY-ORDER OFFICES, AND POST-OFFICE
+SAVINGS-BANKS.</h3>
+<p>The <i>London Postal District</i>, to which special rules
+relate, includes every town and village within twelve miles of
+the General Post-office.&nbsp; Reference has already been made to
+the number of post-offices, receiving-houses, and pillar-boxes,
+in this area.&nbsp; There are 500 <i>Money-order Offices</i>, the
+whole of which (with a very few exceptions) have within a recent
+period been made <i>Post-office Savings-banks</i> also.&nbsp; The
+facilities thus afforded to strangers visiting London for a few
+days, for receiving or transmitting money, are very great.&nbsp;
+A Post-office Money-order will convey sums of a few pounds
+without risk of loss, at a cost of a few pence, either from the
+visitor to his country friends, or from them to him.&nbsp; The
+Post-office Savings-banks are even still more convenient; for a
+person residing in the country, and having money in the
+savings-banks, <i>can draw it out in London</i> during his visit,
+or any part of it, with a delay of a day or two, free of
+expense.&nbsp; In whatever part of London a visitor may be, he is
+within five or ten minutes&rsquo; walk of a Money-order Office;
+and at any such office he can, for six hours a day, (10 till 4,)
+obtain the requisite information concerning both of these kinds
+of economical monetary facilities.</p>
+<h3>LONDON LETTERS, POSTAL AND TELEGRAPH SYSTEM.</h3>
+<p>As just stated, the <i>London District Post</i> operates
+within twelve miles of the General Post-office: that is, within a
+circle of twenty-four miles in diameter.&nbsp; There are a few
+outlying patches beyond this circle, but they need not here be
+taken into account.&nbsp; This large area is now divided into
+eight <i>Postal Districts</i>, each of which has a name, an
+initial abbreviation, and a chief office.&nbsp; They are as
+follows:&mdash;</p>
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td><p>E. C.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p><i>Eastern Central</i></p>
+</td>
+<td><p>St. Martin&rsquo;s-le-Grand, (head office.)</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>W. C.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p><i>Western Central</i></p>
+</td>
+<td><p>126 High Holborn.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>N.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p><i>Northern</i></p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Packington Street, Islington.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>E.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p><i>Eastern</i></p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Nassau Place, Commercial Road, East.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>S. E.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p><i>South-Eastern</i></p>
+</td>
+<td><p>9 Blackman Street, Borough.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>S. W.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p><i>South-Western</i></p>
+</td>
+<td><p>8 Buckingham Gate.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>W.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p><i>Western</i></p>
+</td>
+<td><p>3 Vere Street, Oxford Street.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>N. W.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p><i>North-Western</i></p>
+</td>
+<td><p>28 Eversholt Street, Oakley Square.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<p>The use of the district system is, that if a letter, arriving
+from the country, has on the outside the <i>district initials</i>
+as well as the address, it has a fair chance of <i>earlier
+delivery</i>; and if sent from one part of London to another,
+such chance is the greater.&nbsp; The reason for this is, that
+much of the sorting is effected at the eight chief district
+offices, if the initials are given, to the great saving of
+time.&nbsp; An official list of a vast number of <a
+name="page176"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 176</span>streets,
+&amp;c., with their district initials, within the London District
+Post, is published at 1d., and is obtainable at most of the
+principal receiving-houses.</p>
+<p>The portion of each district within about three miles of the
+General Post-office is called the Town Delivery, and the
+remainder the Suburban Delivery.&nbsp; Within the town limits
+there are twelve deliveries daily: the first, or General Post,
+commencing about 7.30, and mostly over in London about 9; the
+second commencing about 8.15, and the third at 10.30.&nbsp; The
+next nine are made hourly.&nbsp; The last delivery begins about
+7.45.&nbsp; There are seven despatches daily to the suburban
+districts.&nbsp; The first, at 6.30 a.m., to all places within
+the London District limits.&nbsp; A second, at 9.30, to suburbs
+within about four miles of the General Post-office.&nbsp; The
+third, at 11.30, takes in almost all the London district.&nbsp;
+The fourth despatch, at 2.30 p.m., goes to spots within about six
+miles of the General Post-office.&nbsp; The fifth, at 4.30,
+comprises the whole of the suburban districts, and, except in the
+more outlying country spots, letters are delivered same
+evening.&nbsp; The sixth, at 6 p.m., goes to places under four
+miles from the General Post-office.&nbsp; The last despatch is at
+7 p.m.&nbsp; Letters to go by it should be posted at the town
+post-offices or pillar-boxes by 6 p.m., or at the <i>chief</i>
+office of the district to which they are addressed.&nbsp; They
+will thus probably be delivered the same night, within about six
+miles of the General Office.&nbsp; The suburban deliveries begin
+one to two hours after despatch, according to distance.</p>
+<p>It is always well to remember, that for any given delivery, a
+letter may be posted rather later at the chief office than at any
+of the minor offices of each district; that <i>letters</i> only,
+not newspapers, book-parcels, manuscripts, &amp;c., may be put in
+pillar-boxes; and that letters posted during the night, (from 9
+p.m. to 5 a.m.,) have a chance of earlier delivery than
+otherwise, seeing that the pillar-boxes are cleared at 5 in the
+morning, and, as a rule, we believe, earlier than the
+receiving-houses.&nbsp; Outgoing letters for the evening mails
+are received at most offices till 5.30, and at the chief office
+of each district till 6.&nbsp; By affixing an extra penny stamp,
+the letter is receivable till 6 at the minor, and till 7 at the
+chief offices.</p>
+<p><b>Telegraph Offices</b>.&mdash;Telegrams may be sent from all
+Postal Offices within the London district.&nbsp; The charge for
+20 words, not including address, is 1s.</p>
+<h3>READING AND NEWS-ROOMS.</h3>
+<p>Jerusalem Coffee-house, Cowper&rsquo;s Court, Cornhill,
+(Indian, China, and Australian newspapers.)</p>
+<p>3 Wallbrook.</p>
+<p>154 Leadenhall Street, (Deacon&rsquo;s.)</p>
+<p>13 Philpot Lane.</p>
+<p>Royal Exchange, Lloyds&rsquo;, (Subscribers only.)</p>
+<p>King&rsquo;s Head, Fenchurch Street.</p>
+<p><a name="page177"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 177</span>26
+Fore Street, Cripplegate.</p>
+<p>88 Park Street, Camden Town.</p>
+<p>83 Lower Thames Street.</p>
+<p>177, 178 Fleet Street, (Peele&rsquo;s&mdash;files of the
+<i>Times</i> for many years.)</p>
+<p>24 King William Street, (Wild&rsquo;s.)</p>
+<p>34 Mount Street, Grosvenor Square, (St. George&rsquo;s.)</p>
+<p>22 Paddington Green, (Working Men&rsquo;s.)</p>
+<p>Patent Museum Library, Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane,
+(free.)</p>
+<p>British Museum Library, (apply for ticket; enclosing letter of
+introduction from respectable householder.)</p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>There are Reading and News Rooms belonging to a large number
+of learned societies and public institutions; but these are for
+the most part accessible only to members.</p>
+<h3>CHESS ROOMS.</h3>
+<p>A chess player may meet with competitors at any one of the
+several chess rooms.&nbsp; The best are Simpson&rsquo;s, (Limited
+Co.,) late Ries&rsquo;s, <i>Divan</i>, opposite Exeter Hall,
+Strand; Kilpack&rsquo;s, Covent Garden, (also an American Bowling
+Saloon;) and Pursell&rsquo;s, Cornhill.&nbsp; Many Coffee-shops
+are provided with chess-boards and men, and many dining and chop
+houses have chess-rooms up-stairs.</p>
+<h3>THEATRES.</h3>
+<p>There are at present about thirty-seven London Theatres, but
+those named below are all that need here be considered.</p>
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Adelphi</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Strand.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Alhambra</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Leicester Square.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Astley&rsquo;s Amphitheatre</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>6&frac12; Bridge Road, Lambeth.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Royal Amphitheatre</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Holborn.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Britannia Theatre</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Hoxton Old Town.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Charing Cross</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>King William Street, Strand.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>City of London</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>36 Norton Folgate.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Covent Garden, (Opera House)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Bow Street.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Court Theatre</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Sloane Square.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Drury Lane</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Brydges Street.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Gaiety</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Strand.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Garrick</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Leman Street, Goodman&rsquo;s Fields.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Globe</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Strand.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Grecian</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>City Road.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Great Eastern</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Whitechapel Road.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><a name="page178"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+178</span>Haymarket</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>East side of Haymarket.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Holborn</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Holborn.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>King&rsquo;s Cross</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Liverpool Street, King&rsquo;s Cross.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Her Majesty&rsquo;s, (Opera House)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>West side of Haymarket.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Lyceum</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wellington Street, Strand.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Marylebone</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>New Church Street, Lisson Grove.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Olympic</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wych Street, Drury Lane.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Opera Comique</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Strand.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Pavilion</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>85 Whitechapel Road.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Philharmonic</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Islington.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Princess&rsquo;s</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>73 Oxford Street.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Prince of Wales&rsquo;s</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>4 and 5 Tottenham Street.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Queen&rsquo;s, (late St. Martin&rsquo;s Hall)</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Longacre.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Royalty, or Soho</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>73 Dean Street, Soho.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Sadler&rsquo;s Wells</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>St. John&rsquo;s Street Road.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>St. James&rsquo;s</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>23 King Street, St. James&rsquo;s.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Standard</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>204 Shoreditch, High Street.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Strand</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Between 168 and 169 Strand.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Surrey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>124 Blackfriars Road.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Vaudeville</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Strand.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Victoria</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>135 Waterloo Road.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<h3>CONCERT ROOMS.</h3>
+<p>Willis&rsquo;s Rooms, King Street, St. James&rsquo;s.</p>
+<p>Hanover Square Rooms.</p>
+<p>Exeter Hall, 372 Strand, Choral Societies, Sacred Harmonic,
+&amp;c.</p>
+<p>St. James&rsquo;s Hall, Quadrant and
+Piccadilly,&mdash;Concerts occasionally.</p>
+<p>16 Store Street, Bedford Square, &bdquo; &bdquo;</p>
+<p>St. George&rsquo;s Hall, Langham Place.</p>
+<p>Princess&rsquo;s Concert Room, Princess&rsquo;s
+Theatre,&mdash;Concerts occasionally.</p>
+<p>Queen&rsquo;s Concert Room, (attached to Her Majesty&rsquo;s
+Theatre,)&mdash;Concerts occasionally.</p>
+<p>Myddleton Hall, Upper Street, Islington.</p>
+<p>Agricultural Hall, Islington,&mdash;Concerts occasionally.</p>
+<h3>MUSIC HALLS.</h3>
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Alhambra <a name="citation178"></a><a href="#footnote178"
+class="citation">[178]</a></p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Leicester Square, (east side.)</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Alhambra (Temperance) Music Hall</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Shoreditch.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Borough Music Hall</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>170 Union Street.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Cambridge Music Hall</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Commercial Street.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Canterbury Hall</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Lambeth Upper Marsh.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><a name="page179"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+179</span>Deacon&rsquo;s</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Sadler&rsquo;s Wells.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Evans&rsquo;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Covent Garden.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Islington Philharmonic Hall <a name="citation179"></a><a
+href="#footnote179" class="citation">[179]</a></p>
+</td>
+<td><p>High Street, Islington.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Marylebone</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>High Street</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Metropolitan Music Hall</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>125 Edgeware Road.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Middlesex</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Drury Lane.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>The Oxford</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>6 Oxford Street, (east end.)</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Pavilion Music Hall</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Tichborne Street, Haymarket.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Raglan Music Hall</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>26 Theobald&rsquo;s Road.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Regent</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Vincent Square, Westminster.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>South London Music Hall</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>92 London Rd., St. George&rsquo;s Fields.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Royal (late Weston&rsquo;s) Music Hall</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>242 High Holborn.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Wilton&rsquo;s Music Hall</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wellclose Square.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Winchester Hall</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Southwark Bridge Road.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<h3>MODES OF ADMISSION TO VARIOUS INTERESTING PLACES.</h3>
+<h4>Free.</h4>
+<p><i>British Museum</i>.&mdash;<i>Chelsea
+Hospital</i>.&mdash;<i>Courts of Law and Justice</i> (at the
+Criminal Court and the Police Courts a fee is often
+needed.)&mdash;<i>Docks</i>, (but not the vaults and warehouses
+without an introduction.)&mdash;<i>Dulwich
+Gallery</i>.&mdash;<i>East India Museum</i>, Fife House,
+Whitehall.&mdash;<i>Greenwich Hospital</i>, (a small fee for some
+parts.)&mdash;<i>Hampton Court Palace</i>, (Sundays as well as
+week-days).&mdash;<i>Houses of Parliament</i>, (some portions
+every day; more on Saturdays.)&mdash;<i>Kew Botanic Garden and
+Pleasure Grounds</i>, (Sundays as well as
+week-days.)&mdash;<i>Museum of Economic Geology</i>, Jermyn
+Street.&mdash;<i>National Gallery</i>.&mdash;<i>National Portrait
+Gallery</i>.&mdash;<i>Patent Museum</i>, (adjoining the South
+Kensington Museum.)&mdash;<i>Soane&rsquo;s Museum</i>,
+Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn Fields.&mdash;<i>Society of Arts</i>
+Exhibition of Inventions, (in the spring of each
+year.)&mdash;<i>St. Paul&rsquo;s Cathedral</i>, (fees for Crypt
+and all above stairs.)&mdash;<i>Westminster Abbey</i>, (a fee for
+some of the Chapels.)&mdash;<i>Westminster
+Hall</i>.&mdash;<i>Windsor Castle</i>, (at periods notified from
+time to time.)&mdash;<i>Woolwich Repository</i>, (the Dockyard
+was closed in October, 1869, and a letter of introduction is
+needed for the Arsenal.)&nbsp; Private Picture Galleries are
+sometimes opened free; of which notice is given in the
+newspapers.</p>
+<h4>Shilling Admissions.</h4>
+<p>The number of Shilling Exhibitions open in London is at all
+times very large, but more especially in the summer months.&nbsp;
+The first page of the <i>Times</i> contains advertisements
+relating to the whole of them; while the <a
+name="page180"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 180</span>penny
+papers contain a considerable number.&nbsp; As the list varies
+from time to time, we cannot print it here; but the following are
+the chief places where the exhibitions or entertainments are
+held.&nbsp; (Theatres and Music Halls are not included; because
+the terms of admission vary to different parts of those
+buildings.&nbsp; We may here add that <i>Burford&rsquo;s</i> and
+the <i>Colosseum</i> have long been closed.)&mdash;<i>Cremorne
+Gardens</i>, Chelsea.&mdash;<i>Crystal Palace</i>, Sydenham, (2s.
+6d. on Saturday, 1s. on other days.)&mdash;<i>Egyptian Hall</i>,
+Piccadilly, (sometimes two or three exhibitions at once, in
+different parts of the building.)&mdash;<i>Gallery of
+Illustration</i>, Regent Street.&mdash;Various temporary
+exhibitions in large rooms situated in the Haymarket, Pall Mall,
+Regent Street, Piccadilly, and Bond Street.&mdash;<i>Picture
+Exhibitions</i>, (such as the <i>Royal Academy</i>, the
+<i>British Institution</i>, the <i>Society of British
+Artists</i>, two <i>Water Colour Societies</i>,
+&amp;c.)&mdash;<i>Polytechnic Institution</i>, Regent
+Street.&mdash;<i>Polygraphic Hall</i>,
+Strand.&mdash;<i>Tussaud&rsquo;s Waxwork</i>, Baker Street
+Bazaar.&mdash;<i>Zoological Gardens</i>, (sixpence on
+Mondays.)</p>
+<h4>Admit by Introduction.</h4>
+<p>Among the places to which admission may be obtained by
+personal introduction, or by letter, the following may be
+named:&mdash;<i>Antiquarian Society&rsquo;s Museum</i>, Somerset
+House.&mdash;<i>Armourer&rsquo;s Museum</i>, (ancient armour,) 81
+Coleman Street.&mdash;<i>Asiatic Society&rsquo;s Museum</i>, 5
+New Burlington Street.&mdash;<i>Bank of England Museum</i>,
+(collection of coins.)&mdash;<i>Botanical Society&rsquo;s Gardens
+and Museum</i>, Regent&rsquo;s Park.&mdash;<i>College of
+Surgeons&rsquo; Museum</i>, Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn
+Fields.&mdash;<i>Guildhall Museum</i>, (old London
+antiquities.)&mdash;<i>Linn&aelig;an Society&rsquo;s Museum</i>,
+Burlington House.&mdash;<i>Mint</i>, (process of coining,) Tower
+Hill.&mdash;<i>Missionary Museum</i>, (idols, rude implements,
+&amp;c.,) Bloomfield Street, Finsbury.&mdash;<i>Naval Museum</i>,
+(formerly, now at South Kensington.)&mdash;<i>Private Picture
+Galleries</i>, (several.)&mdash;<i>Royal Institution Museum</i>,
+Albemarle Street.&mdash;<i>Trinity House Museum</i>, (models of
+lighthouses, &amp;c.,) Tower Hill.&mdash;<i>United Service
+Museum</i>, Scotland Yard.&mdash;<i>Woolwich Arsenal</i>.</p>
+<p><i>N.B.</i>&mdash;These lists are subject to constant
+change.</p>
+<h3>PRINCIPAL PUBLIC AND TURKISH BATHS.</h3>
+<p>(Those printed in <i>italics</i> are public baths, established
+rather for the benefit of the working and middle classes, than
+for the sake of profit.&nbsp; At most of them a third-class cold
+bath can be obtained for 1d.; from which minimum the prices rise
+to about 6d. or 8d.&nbsp; Many of the so-called <i>Turkish</i>
+baths are ordinary baths in which the arrangements for the
+Turkish or Oriental system have recently been introduced.&nbsp;
+There are also a few <i>Medicated Baths</i>, kept by medical
+practitioners for the use of invalids.)</p>
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td><p><a name="page181"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+181</span><i>Bermondsey Baths</i></p>
+</td>
+<td><p>39 <i>Spa Road</i>, <i>Bermondsey</i>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><i>Bloomsbury</i></p>
+</td>
+<td><p><i>Endell Street</i>, <i>St. Giles&rsquo;s</i>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Cadogan</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>155 Sloane Street, Chelsea.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Coldbath</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>25 Coldbath Square, Clerkenwell.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Culverwell&rsquo;s</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>10 Argyll Place and 5 New Broad Street.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Islington</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Cross Street.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Lambeth</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>8 Mount Street, Lambeth.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Mahomed&rsquo;s</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>42 Somerset Street, Portman Square.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Metropolitan</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>23 Ashley Crescent, City Road.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Old Roman</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>5 Strand Lane.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Old Royal</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>10&frac12; and 11 Bath Street, Newgate Street.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Pentonville</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Pentonville Road, (south side.)</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><i>Poplar</i></p>
+</td>
+<td><p><i>East India Road</i>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Portland</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Great Portland Street, (east side.)</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Royal York</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>54 York Terrace, Regent&rsquo;s Park.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Russell</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>56 Great Coram Street, Russell Square.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Russian</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>16a Old Cavendish Street.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><i>St. George&rsquo;s</i></p>
+</td>
+<td><p>8 <i>Davis Street</i>, <i>Berkeley Square</i>, <i>and</i>
+88 <i>Buckingham Palace Road</i>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&mdash;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>22 <i>Lower Belgrave Place</i>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><i>St. James&rsquo;s</i></p>
+</td>
+<td><p>16 <i>Marshall Street</i>, <i>Golden Square</i>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><i>St. Martin&rsquo;s</i></p>
+</td>
+<td><p><i>Orange Street</i>, <i>Leicester Square</i>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><i>St. Marylebone</i></p>
+</td>
+<td><p>181 <i>Marylebone Road</i>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Wenlock</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Wenlock Road, City Road.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><i>Westminster</i></p>
+</td>
+<td><p>21 <i>Great Smith Street</i>, <i>Westminster</i>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><i>Whitechapel</i></p>
+</td>
+<td><p><i>Goulston Square</i>, <i>Whitechapel</i>.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<h4>Turkish.</h4>
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">191</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Blackfriars Road, S.E.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">184</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Euston Road, N.W.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">155</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Sloane Street, S.W.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">282</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Goswell Road, E.C.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Kennington Park Road, S.E.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">1</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Upper John Street, Golden Square, W.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">55</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Marylebone Road, N.W.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">42</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Somerset Street, Portman Square, N.W.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<h4>Medicated Baths.</h4>
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Ballard&rsquo;s</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>Chapel Place, Cavendish Square.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Campion&rsquo;s</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>155 Sloane Street, Chelsea.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Mahomed&rsquo;s</p>
+</td>
+<td><p>42 Somerset Street, Portman Square.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<h3><a name="page182"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+182</span>CABS.</h3>
+<p>Practically speaking, the new law ordering cabmen to display a
+flag, on which is painted their tariff per mile and per hour, is
+a dead letter.&nbsp; Few or none shew flags, and many have none
+to shew.&nbsp; Cab proprietors can now charge what they please,
+provided they take out a license from the Commissioners of
+Metropolitan Police, on which is endorsed the rate by distance or
+by time intended to be charged, and the number of persons to be
+carried.&nbsp; No fare less than one shilling is to be
+offered.&nbsp; The driver is to give passenger a card which
+specifies the licensed price per hour or per mile.&nbsp; As
+regards luggage, for each package carried outside 2d. extra is
+charged.&nbsp; For each person <i>above two</i> 6d. extra on the
+entire journey.&nbsp; If such extra person be a child under 10
+years of age, 3d.&nbsp; Two children of such age to be reckoned
+as one person.&nbsp; If cab be discharged more than four miles
+from Charing Cross by radius, an extra charge will be made for
+such excess of distance, as per sum stated on cabman&rsquo;s
+card.&nbsp; Every full mile of such excess will be charged for at
+per tariff per mile stated on such card.&nbsp; Driver is not
+compelled to drive more than 6 miles.&nbsp; For every quarter of
+an hour he is kept waiting, if the cab be hired by time,
+one-fourth of his tariff per hour.&nbsp; If hired by distance,
+for every quarter of an hour of waiting, the rate charged per
+mile.&nbsp; By time, for any period under one hour, the sum
+stated on driver&rsquo;s card as charged per hour.&nbsp; As a
+general rule, cabmen charge 2s. per hour for four-wheeled cabs,
+and 2s. 6d. for &ldquo;Hansom;&rdquo; and by distance, 1s. for
+the first mile, and 6d. for the second, and so on.&nbsp; Property
+left in hackney carriages should be asked for at the office for
+property left in such carriages, at the office of the
+Commissioners of Police, Great Scotland Yard, Charing
+Cross.&nbsp; Cabmen are bound, under a penalty, to take such lost
+property to the nearest police station within 24 hours.&nbsp; In
+case of disagreement between a cabman and his passenger, the
+latter can compel the cabman to drive to the nearest police
+office; and if a Magistrate be then sitting, he will at once
+settle the dispute.&nbsp; If such office is closed, the cabman
+may be required to drive to the nearest police station, where the
+complaint will be entered, and adjudicated at the
+magistrate&rsquo;s next sitting.&nbsp; Our readers cannot do
+better than purchase (price 1s.) a little book on the subject of
+Cab Fares and Regulations, published under the auspices of the
+Commissioners of the Metropolitan Police.&nbsp; It can be ordered
+through any bookseller, or may be purchased direct, at the office
+for its sale, a few doors north of the entrance to Great Scotland
+Yard.&nbsp; In it will be found a list of fares, and the
+distances in yards, from many parts in London to others.&nbsp;
+Its usefulness will amply repay our readers for their small
+outlay in its purchase.</p>
+<h3><a name="page183"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+183</span>HINTS TO STRANGERS.</h3>
+<p>Whether you know the proper cab-fare or not, always make a
+bargain with the cabman when hiring his vehicle; and take a note
+of his number.</p>
+<p>Keep the right hand side of the pavement when walking.</p>
+<p>If out with other country friends, keep well together.</p>
+<p>Observe caution while crossing crowded thoroughfares.</p>
+<p>In asking for information, apply to shopkeepers, or to
+policemen, rather than to passers-by.</p>
+<p>The London police are, for the most part, reliable men; and
+strangers in any doubt or difficulty can generally obtain useful
+aid from them.</p>
+<p>Be on your guard against pickpockets in crowds, street
+exhibitions, and omnibuses.</p>
+<p>Beware of strangers who endeavour to force their acquaintance
+on you, and affect to be unacquainted with London; they are often
+low sharpers.</p>
+<p>Keep no more cash about you than is needed for the day&rsquo;s
+supply.</p>
+<p>Be cautious in opening your purse or looking at your watch in
+the streets.</p>
+<p>Avoid low neighbourhoods after dark; if there is anything
+worth seeing there, see it in the daytime.</p>
+<p>Disregard street-beggars; residents only (and not always even
+they) can tell the deserving from the undeserving.</p>
+<h3>COMMISSIONAIRES OR MESSENGERS.</h3>
+<p>These are a body of retired soldiers of good character, who
+were originally organized in 1859, by Captain Walter.&nbsp; Their
+central office, open day and night, is at Exchange Court,
+419<i>a</i> Strand, where men can always be hired.&nbsp; But they
+are also to be seen, and are easily recognisable by their neat
+dark green uniform and badge, in most large thoroughfares.&nbsp;
+Their tariff is,&mdash;twopence for half-a-mile or under; and
+threepence for any distance over half-a-mile to a mile.&nbsp;
+Back fare, or charge for return, (unless bearing a return
+message,) is not allowed.&nbsp; A charge of one penny per mile
+extra, if the parcel carried weighs more than 14 lbs.&nbsp; If
+engaged by time, sixpence per hour, twopence a quarter of an
+hour, half-a-crown for a day of eight hours.&nbsp; By special
+arrangement, they may be hired at from 15s. to 20s. per week.</p>
+<h3><a name="page184"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 184</span>THE
+GREAT INTERCEPTS MAIN DRAINAGE SYSTEM OF LONDON.</h3>
+<p>North of the Thames are the <i>High Level</i>, the <i>Middle
+Level</i>, the <i>Low Level</i>, and the <i>Western District
+Sewers</i>, together with an <i>Outfall</i> at Barking
+Creek.&nbsp; The High Level drains Hampstead, Highgate, Kentish
+Town, Highbury, Stoke Newington, Hackney, and passes under
+Victoria Park to Old Ford; its length is about 9 miles.&nbsp; The
+Middle Level runs by way of Kensal Green, Kensington Park,
+Notting Hill, Bayswater, Oxford Street, and so under a number of
+minor streets, to Old Ford, being about 12 miles long.&nbsp; The
+Low Level commences near Pimlico, and passes along under the
+Thames embankment to Blackfriars, whence it is to go through the
+City and Whitechapel to West Ham.&nbsp; The Western District
+Sewers drain Acton, Hammersmith, Fulham, Chelsea, &amp;c., on a
+plan different from that of the main drainage in other
+localities.&nbsp; The Outfall, an immense work 6 miles long,
+continues the Upper and Middle Level Sewers from Old Ford to West
+Ham, and all the three sewers thence to Barking Creek, where
+stupendous arrangements are made for conducting the flow of the
+sewage into the Thames.&nbsp; The drainage south of the Thames
+comprises a <i>High Level Sewer</i>, a <i>Low Level Sewer</i>,
+and an <i>Outflow</i>.&nbsp; The High Level drains Clapham,
+Brixton, Streatham, Dulwich, Camberwell, &amp;c.; the Low Level
+keeps nearer the Thames, by Wandsworth, Battersea, Vauxhall,
+Lambeth, Southwark, Bermondsey, and Rotherhithe, to Deptford;
+while the Outfall continues both these lines of sewers through
+Deptford, Greenwich, Woolwich, and across Plumstead Marshes to
+Crossness Point, where the works are situated for conveying the
+sewage into the river.</p>
+<h2><a name="page185"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+185</span>INDEX</h2>
+<p>Abney Park Cemetery, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page61">61</a></span></p>
+<p>Achilles&rsquo;s Statue, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page127">127</a></span></p>
+<p>Adelphi Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
+<p>Admiralty, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page46">46</a></span></p>
+<p>Admission to Places of Interest, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
+<p>Albert Suspension Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page102">102</a></span></p>
+<p>Aldermen, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page85">85</a></span></p>
+<p>Aldgate, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span></p>
+<p>Aldgate High Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span></p>
+<p>Alexandra Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page167">167</a></span></p>
+<p>Alhambra, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page124">124</a></span></p>
+<p>Amusements, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
+<p>Apothecaries&rsquo; Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page97">97</a></span></p>
+<p>Apsley House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page38">38</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page39">39</a></span></p>
+<p>Armouries, Tower, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page78">78</a></span></p>
+<p>Arsenal, Woolwich, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page160">160</a></span></p>
+<p>Art Exhibitions, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page70">70</a></span></p>
+<p>Artillery Ground, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page32">32</a></span></p>
+<p>Arundel Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+<p>Astley&rsquo;s Amphith., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page123">123</a></span></p>
+<p>Austin Friars, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>Bank of England, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page15">15</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page93">93</a></span></p>
+<p>Bank of London, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span></p>
+<p>Banks, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page94">94</a></span></p>
+<p>Baptist College, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page72">72</a></span></p>
+<p>Barclay &amp; Perkins&rsquo;s, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page113">113</a></span></p>
+<p>Barnes, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page145">145</a></span></p>
+<p>Barnet, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
+<p>Baths, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page180">180</a></span></p>
+<p>Battersea, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page104">104</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page144">144</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page104">104</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page133">133</a></span></p>
+<p>Bazaars, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page113">113</a></span></p>
+<p>Belgrave Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+<p>Berkeley Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+<p>Bethnal Green, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span></p>
+<p>Bethnal Green Cemetery, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page61">61</a></span></p>
+<p>Bethnal G. Museum, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page66">66</a></span></p>
+<p>Billingsgate, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page111">111</a></span></p>
+<p>Birdcage Walk, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page126">126</a></span></p>
+<p>Bishopsgate Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span></p>
+<p>Blackfriars&rsquo; Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page22">22</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page103">103</a></span></p>
+<p>Blackheath, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page163">163</a></span></p>
+<p>Blackwall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page159">159</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Railway, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
+<p>Blue Coat School, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page73">73</a></span></p>
+<p>Board of Trade Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page47">47</a></span></p>
+<p>Boat-races, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page145">145</a></span></p>
+<p>Bolt Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page25">25</a></span></p>
+<p>Bond Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+<p>Book-trade, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page115">115</a></span></p>
+<p>Botanical Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page134">134</a></span></p>
+<p>Bow Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page56">56</a></span></p>
+<p>Bow Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span></p>
+<p>Bread Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span></p>
+<p>Breweries, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page113">113</a></span></p>
+<p>Bridges, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page102">102</a></span></p>
+<p>Bridgewater Gallery, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page40">40</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page40">40</a></span></p>
+<p>Brighton Railway, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page140">140</a></span></p>
+<p>Britannia Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+<p>British Institution, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page70">70</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Museum, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page62">62</a></span></p>
+<p>Broad Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span></p>
+<p>Bromley, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page163">163</a></span></p>
+<p>Brooke Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page24">24</a></span></p>
+<p>Bryanstone Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+<p>Buccleuch House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page40">40</a></span></p>
+<p>Buckingham Palace, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page34">34</a></span></p>
+<p>Bunhill Fields, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page32">32</a></span></p>
+<p>Burlington House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page69">69</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>Cabs and Cab Fares, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page137">137</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page182">182</a></span></p>
+<p>Cannon Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page14">14</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page33">33</a></span></p>
+<p>Canterbury Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page124">124</a></span></p>
+<p>Cattle Market, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page110">110</a></span></p>
+<p>Cavendish Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+<p>Cecil Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+<p>Cemeteries, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page57">57</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page61">61</a></span></p>
+<p>Central Criminal Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page21">21</a></span></p>
+<p>Chancery Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page25">25</a></span></p>
+<p>Chapels, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page55">55</a></span></p>
+<p>Charing Cross, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Railway Station and Hotel, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+<p>Charitable Institutions, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page76">76</a></span></p>
+<p>Charles I.&rsquo;s Statue, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span></p>
+<p>Charter House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
+<p>Charter House School, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page73">73</a></span></p>
+<p>Chatham and Dover Railway, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
+<p>Cheapside, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page15">15</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span></p>
+<p>Chelsea, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page144">144</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page104">104</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Hospital, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page143">143</a></span></p>
+<p>Chess Rooms, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page176">176</a></span></p>
+<p>Chesterfield House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page40">40</a></span></p>
+<p>Child&rsquo;s Banking Ho., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page26">26</a></span></p>
+<p>Chiswick, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page145">145</a></span></p>
+<p>Chop-houses, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page120">120</a></span></p>
+<p>Christ&rsquo;s Hospital, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page73">73</a></span></p>
+<p>Churches, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page55">55</a></span></p>
+<p>City Bank, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash;Companies, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page97">97</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash;of Lond. School, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page20">20</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page75">75</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash;Prison, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page93">93</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Road, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page32">32</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash;, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page12">12</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page15">15</a></span></p>
+<p>Clapham, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page144">144</a></span></p>
+<p>Clement&rsquo;s Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+<p>Clock, Westminster, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page43">43</a></span></p>
+<p>Clothworkers&rsquo; Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page97">97</a></span></p>
+<p>Clubs and Club Houses, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page116">116</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page173">173</a></span></p>
+<p>Coal Exchange, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page110">110</a></span></p>
+<p>Cockspur Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
+<p>Coffee-houses, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page120">120</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; shops, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page120">120</a></span></p>
+<p>Colleges, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page70">70</a></span></p>
+<p>Colonial Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page47">47</a></span></p>
+<p>Colosseum, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page132">132</a></span></p>
+<p>Commercial Docks, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page100">100</a></span></p>
+<p>Commissionaires, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page183">183</a></span></p>
+<p>Common Council, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page85">85</a></span></p>
+<p>Companies&rsquo; Halls, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page96">96</a></span></p>
+<p>Concert Rooms, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page123">123</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
+<p>Constitution Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page127">127</a></span></p>
+<p>Corn Exchange, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page113">113</a></span></p>
+<p>Cornhill, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page15">15</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span></p>
+<p>Corporation, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page84">84</a></span></p>
+<p>Cotton&rsquo;s Wharf, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span></p>
+<p><a name="page186"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+186</span>Courts of Law, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page44">44</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page92">92</a></span></p>
+<p>Court Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+<p>Covent G. Market, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page111">111</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span></p>
+<p>Crane Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page25">25</a></span></p>
+<p>Craven Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+<p>Crays, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page163">163</a></span></p>
+<p>Cremorne Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
+<p>Crossness Point, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+<p>Crystal Palace, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page163">163</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Railway, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page139">139</a></span></p>
+<p>Custom House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page81">81</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>Deptford, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page154">154</a></span></p>
+<p>Devonshire House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page39">39</a></span></p>
+<p>Dining-rooms, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page120">120</a></span></p>
+<p>Dissenting Chapels, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page59">59</a></span></p>
+<p>Docks, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page99">99</a></span></p>
+<p>Doctors&rsquo; Commons, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
+<p>Doomsday Book, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page92">92</a></span></p>
+<p>Downing Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page47">47</a></span></p>
+<p>Down River Excur., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page154">154</a></span></p>
+<p>Drainage System, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page86">86</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page184">184</a></span></p>
+<p>Drapers&rsquo; Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page96">96</a></span></p>
+<p>Drury Lane Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
+<p>Duke of York&rsquo;s Column, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
+<p>Duke of York&rsquo;s School, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page144">144</a></span></p>
+<p>Dulwich College, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page163">163</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>East India Docks, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page99">99</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Museum, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page67">67</a></span></p>
+<p>Edmonton, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page163">163</a></span></p>
+<p>Egyptian Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page124">124</a></span></p>
+<p>Electric Time-ball, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page158">158</a></span></p>
+<p>Eltham, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page163">163</a></span></p>
+<p>Enfield, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page163">163</a></span></p>
+<p>English Presbyterian Theological Coll., <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page72">72</a></span></p>
+<p>Entertainments, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page124">124</a></span></p>
+<p>Environs of London, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page169">169</a></span></p>
+<p>Epping Forest, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page163">163</a></span></p>
+<p>Erith, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+<p>Essex Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+<p>Eton College, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page154">154</a></span></p>
+<p>Euston Road, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page32">32</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page32">32</a></span></p>
+<p>Evans&rsquo;s Hotel and Supper Rooms, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page124">124</a></span></p>
+<p>Exchequer Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page47">47</a></span></p>
+<p>Excursions, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page143">143</a></span></p>
+<p>Exeter Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span></p>
+<p>Exhibition, International, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page129">129</a></span></p>
+<p>Exhibitions, &amp;c., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page179">179</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>Farringdon St., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page22">22</a></span></p>
+<p>Fenchurch Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span></p>
+<p>Finchley, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Cemetery, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page61">61</a></span></p>
+<p>Finsbury Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page133">133</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page32">32</a></span></p>
+<p>Fire Brigade, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page88">88</a></span></p>
+<p>Fires, Great, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page10">10</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page80">80</a></span></p>
+<p>Fishmongers&rsquo; Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page96">96</a></span></p>
+<p>Fish Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span></p>
+<p>Fish-supply, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page111">111</a></span></p>
+<p>Fleet Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page22">22</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page24">24</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Valley, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page21">21</a></span></p>
+<p>Floral Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page112">112</a></span></p>
+<p>Food-supply, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page109">109</a></span></p>
+<p>Foreign Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page47">47</a></span></p>
+<p>Fountains, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page88">88</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page133">133</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page166">166</a></span></p>
+<p>Free Exhibitions, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page179">179</a></span></p>
+<p>Fulham, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page145">145</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>Gaiety Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+<p>Gall. of Illustration, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page12">12</a></span></p>
+<p>George III.&rsquo;s Statue, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
+<p>George IV.&rsquo;s Statue, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page29">29</a></span></p>
+<p>Globe Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+<p>Gog and Magog, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page89">89</a></span></p>
+<p>Goldsmiths&rsquo; Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page20">20</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page96">96</a></span></p>
+<p>Gough Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page25">25</a></span></p>
+<p>Government Offices, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page45">45</a></span></p>
+<p>Gracechurch Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span></p>
+<p>Grand Surrey Docks, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page100">100</a></span></p>
+<p>Gravesend, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+<p>Grays, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+<p>Gray&rsquo;s Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page91">91</a></span></p>
+<p>Great E. Railway, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Nor. Railway, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page138">138</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; W. Railway, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page138">138</a></span></p>
+<p>Grecian Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+<p>Greenhithe, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+<p>Green Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page38">38</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page127">127</a></span></p>
+<p>Greenwich, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page155">155</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Hospital, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page155">155</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page158">158</a></span></p>
+<p>Gresham House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page95">95</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Lectures, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page72">72</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span></p>
+<p>Grocers&rsquo; Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page96">96</a></span></p>
+<p>Grosvenor Gallery, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page39">39</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page118">118</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page39">39</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+<p>Guards&rsquo; Memorial, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
+<p>Guildhall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page20">20</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page88">88</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>Haberdashers&rsquo; Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page96">96</a></span></p>
+<p>Hackney College, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page72">72</a></span></p>
+<p>Hammersmith, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page145">145</a></span></p>
+<p>Hampstead, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
+<p>Hampton Court Palace, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page149">149</a></span></p>
+<p>Hanover Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Rooms, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page123">123</a></span></p>
+<p>Harrow, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
+<p>Havelock&rsquo;s Statue, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
+<p>Haymarket Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
+<p>Henry VII.&rsquo;s Chapel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page51">51</a></span></p>
+<p>H. M. Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
+<p>Highest Ground in London, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
+<p>Highgate, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Cemetery, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page61">61</a></span></p>
+<p>Hints to Strangers, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page183">183</a></span></p>
+<p>Holborn, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page22">22</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page23">23</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Valley Viaduct, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page22">22</a></span></p>
+<p>Holford House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page40">40</a></span></p>
+<p>Holland House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page40">40</a></span></p>
+<p>Home Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page47">47</a></span></p>
+<p>Hornsey, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
+<p>Horse Guards, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page46">46</a></span></p>
+<p>Horticultural Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page135">135</a></span></p>
+<p>Hospitals, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page76">76</a></span></p>
+<p>Hotel Charges, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#pageviii">viii</a></span></p>
+<p>Hotels, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page117">117</a></span></p>
+<p>Houndsditch, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span></p>
+<p>House of Correction, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page93">93</a></span></p>
+<p><a name="page187"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+187</span>Houses and Streets, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page11">11</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; of Parl<sup>t</sup>., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page49">49</a></span></p>
+<p>Howard Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+<p>Hudson&rsquo;s Bay House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span></p>
+<p>Hungerford Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page104">104</a></span></p>
+<p>Hyde Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page127">127</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>India House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page95">95</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page47">47</a></span></p>
+<p>Inns, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page117">117</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; of Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page26">26</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page91">91</a></span></p>
+<p>Insurance Offices, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page94">94</a></span></p>
+<p>International Exhibition, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page129">129</a></span></p>
+<p>Ironmonger Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span></p>
+<p>Ironmongers&rsquo; Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page96">96</a></span></p>
+<p>Isle of Dogs, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page159">159</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>Jewel House, Tower, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page80">80</a></span></p>
+<p>Jewish Synagogues, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page59">59</a></span></p>
+<p>Jews&rsquo; Quarter, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span></p>
+<p>Johnson&rsquo;s Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page25">25</a></span></p>
+<p>Junior Athen&aelig;um Club, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page40">40</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>Kennington Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page133">133</a></span></p>
+<p>Kensal Green, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page61">61</a></span></p>
+<p>Kensington Garden, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page131">131</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Palace, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page36">36</a></span></p>
+<p>Kew Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page146">146</a></span></p>
+<p>King&rsquo;s College, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page45">45</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page72">72</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Cross Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page138">138</a></span></p>
+<p>King Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span></p>
+<p>King William St., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page13">13</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span></p>
+<p>Koh-i-noor, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page80">80</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>Lady&rsquo;s Mile, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page129">129</a></span></p>
+<p>Lambeth Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page104">104</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Palace, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page36">36</a></span></p>
+<p>Landseer&rsquo;s four Lions, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page29">29</a></span></p>
+<p>Lansdowne House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page40">40</a></span></p>
+<p>Leadenhall Market, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page111">111</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span></p>
+<p>Letter Deliveries, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page175">175</a></span></p>
+<p>Lewisham, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page163">163</a></span></p>
+<p>Lighting, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page87">87</a></span></p>
+<p>Limehouse, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page159">159</a></span></p>
+<p>Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page91">91</a></span></p>
+<p>Lloyd&rsquo;s, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page90">90</a></span></p>
+<p>Lombard Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page15">15</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span></p>
+<p>London and N.-W. Railway, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page138">138</a></span></p>
+<p>London Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page15">15</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page102">102</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page119">119</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page140">140</a></span></p>
+<p>London, Chatham, and Dover Bridge, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page23">23</a></span></p>
+<p>London Docks, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page100">100</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; in Roman times, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page9">9</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Stone, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page168">168</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; University, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page70">70</a></span></p>
+<p>Long Walk, Windsor, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page154">154</a></span></p>
+<p>Lord Mayor&rsquo;s Show, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page85">85</a></span></p>
+<p>Lothbury Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span></p>
+<p>Lower Serle&rsquo;s Place, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page25">25</a></span></p>
+<p>Ludgate Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page21">21</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Railway Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page21">21</a></span></p>
+<p>Ludgate Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page21">21</a></span></p>
+<p>Lyceum Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>Maclise&rsquo;s Great Picture, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page44">44</a></span></p>
+<p>Mall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page126">126</a></span></p>
+<p>Malt Liquors, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page113">113</a></span></p>
+<p>Manchester Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+<p>Mansion House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page15">15</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page88">88</a></span></p>
+<p>Markets, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page110">110</a></span></p>
+<p>Mark Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span></p>
+<p>Marlborough House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page35">35</a></span></p>
+<p>Marylebone Road, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page32">32</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page33">33</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+<p>May Fair, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+<p>Medicated Baths, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page181">181</a></span></p>
+<p>Mercers&rsquo; Grammar School, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page75">75</a></span></p>
+<p>Mercers&rsquo; Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page96">96</a></span></p>
+<p>Merchant Taylors&rsquo; Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page96">96</a></span></p>
+<p>Merchant Taylors&rsquo; School, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page75">75</a></span></p>
+<p>Metropolitan Railway, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page33">33</a></span></p>
+<p>Mile-End Cemetery, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page61">61</a></span></p>
+<p>Military Prison, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page93">93</a></span></p>
+<p>Milk Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span></p>
+<p>Millbank Prison, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page93">93</a></span></p>
+<p>Mincing Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span></p>
+<p>Mint, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page81">81</a></span></p>
+<p>Mitcham, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page163">163</a></span></p>
+<p>Mitre Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page24">24</a></span></p>
+<p>Model Prison, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page93">93</a></span></p>
+<p>Money-Order Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page175">175</a></span></p>
+<p>Monument, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page89">89</a></span></p>
+<p>Moorgate Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page16">16</a></span></p>
+<p>Mortlake, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page145">145</a></span></p>
+<p>Mudie&rsquo;s Library, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page115">115</a></span></p>
+<p>Museum, British, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page62">62</a></span></p>
+<p>Museum of College of Surgeons, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page67">67</a></span></p>
+<p>Museum, Geological, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page66">66</a></span></p>
+<p>Music Halls, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page123">123</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>Napier&rsquo;s Statue, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page29">29</a></span></p>
+<p>National Gallery, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page68">68</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Portrait Gallery, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page69">69</a></span></p>
+<p>Nelson&rsquo;s Column, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page29">29</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Tomb, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page49">49</a></span></p>
+<p>New College, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page72">72</a></span></p>
+<p>Newgate, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page92">92</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Market, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page111">111</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Prison, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page21">21</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page20">20</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page22">22</a></span></p>
+<p>News Rooms, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page176">176</a></span></p>
+<p>Norfolk Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+<p>Northfleet, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+<p>N. and S.W. Junction, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page139">139</a></span></p>
+<p>North London Railway, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
+<p>Northumberland House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page38">38</a></span></p>
+<p>Northumberland Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+<p>North Woolwich, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page159">159</a></span></p>
+<p>Norwood, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page163">163</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>Observatory, Greenwich, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page158">158</a></span></p>
+<p>Old Bailey, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page21">21</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page92">92</a></span></p>
+<p>Old &rsquo;Change, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span></p>
+<p>Old Roman Wall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page9">9</a></span></p>
+<p><a name="page188"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+188</span>Omnibus Routes, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page136">136</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page171">171</a></span></p>
+<p>Open House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
+<p>Oratorios, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page123">123</a></span></p>
+<p>Oxford Music Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page124">124</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>Paddington, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page32">32</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page138">138</a></span></p>
+<p>Palace of Justice, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+<p>Pall Mall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page29">29</a></span></p>
+<p>Pantheon, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page114">114</a></span></p>
+<p>Panyer Alley, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
+<p>Parcels&rsquo; Delivery Co., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page174">174</a></span></p>
+<p>Park Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+<p>Parks, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
+<p>Parson&rsquo;s Green, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page145">145</a></span></p>
+<p>Paternoster Row, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
+<p>Pavilion Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
+<p>Peel&rsquo;s Statue, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
+<p>Penitentiary, Millbank, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page93">93</a></span></p>
+<p>Pentonville Road, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page32">32</a></span></p>
+<p>Petticoat Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span></p>
+<p>Philharmonic Music Hall and Theatre, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page124">124</a></span></p>
+<p>Piccadilly, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
+<p>Pimlico, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page33">33</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page140">140</a></span></p>
+<p>Plague, Great, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page10">10</a></span></p>
+<p>Plumstead Marshes, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+<p>Pneumatic Despatch, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page101">101</a></span></p>
+<p>Police, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page85">85</a></span></p>
+<p>Polytechnic Inst., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
+<p>Pool, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
+<p>Pope&rsquo;s Villa, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page148">148</a></span></p>
+<p>Poplar, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page159">159</a></span></p>
+<p>Population, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page11">11</a></span></p>
+<p>Portland Place, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
+<p>Portman Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+<p>Port of London, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
+<p>Postal System, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page175">175</a></span></p>
+<p>Post-office, General, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page83">83</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page175">175</a></span></p>
+<p>P.O. Savings Banks, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page175">175</a></span></p>
+<p>Poultry, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page16">16</a></span></p>
+<p>Primrose Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page132">132</a></span></p>
+<p>Prince of Wales&rsquo; Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+<p>Prince&rsquo;s Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page15">15</a></span></p>
+<p>Princess&rsquo;s Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+<p>Printing House Sq., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page21">21</a></span></p>
+<p>Prisons, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page92">92</a></span></p>
+<p>Privy Council Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page47">47</a></span></p>
+<p>Purfleet, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+<p>Putney, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page145">145</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>Quadrant, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
+<p>Queen&rsquo;s Bench Prison, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page93">93</a></span></p>
+<p>Queen&rsquo;s Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+<p>Queen Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span></p>
+<p>Queen Victoria Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page14">14</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page107">107</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>Railway Bridges, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page104">104</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Distances, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page169">169</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Hotels, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page118">118</a></span></p>
+<p>Railways, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page138">138</a></span></p>
+<p>Rainham, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+<p>Reading Rooms, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page63">63</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page176">176</a></span></p>
+<p>Record Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page92">92</a></span></p>
+<p>Regent&rsquo;s Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page132">132</a></span></p>
+<p>Regent Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page29">29</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
+<p>Registrar-General&rsquo;s Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page45">45</a></span></p>
+<p>Richard C&oelig;ur de Lion&rsquo;s Statue, <span
+class="indexpageno"><a href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
+<p>Richmond, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page147">147</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page147">147</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page148">148</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page149">149</a></span></p>
+<p>Roman Catholic Chapels, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page59">59</a></span></p>
+<p>Rotherhithe, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page101">101</a></span></p>
+<p>Rothschild&rsquo;s House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page40">40</a></span></p>
+<p>Rotten Row, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page129">129</a></span></p>
+<p>Routes through London, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page13">13</a></span></p>
+<p>Royal Academy, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page69">69</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Albert Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page131">131</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Exchange, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page15">15</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page90">90</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Humane Society, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page129">129</a></span></p>
+<p>Royal Institution, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page67">67</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Military Asylum, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page144">144</a></span></p>
+<p>Royal Music Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page124">124</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>Sacred Harmonic Concerts, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page123">123</a></span></p>
+<p>Sadler&rsquo;s Wells, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page25">25</a></span></p>
+<p>Salisbury Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+<p>Savoy Chapel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page57">57</a></span></p>
+<p>Schools, Public, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page73">73</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash;, Various, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page75">75</a></span></p>
+<p>Scientific Societies, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page68">68</a></span></p>
+<p>Sergeant&rsquo;s Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page92">92</a></span></p>
+<p>Serpentine, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page129">129</a></span></p>
+<p>Sheepshanks&rsquo; Pictures, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page65">65</a></span></p>
+<p>Shilling Exhibitions, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page179">179</a></span></p>
+<p>Shoe Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page23">23</a></span></p>
+<p>Shops, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page113">113</a></span></p>
+<p>Skinners&rsquo; Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page96">96</a></span></p>
+<p>Shoreditch Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
+<p>Smithfield, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page20">20</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page110">110</a></span></p>
+<p>Snow Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page33">33</a></span></p>
+<p>Soane Museum, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page70">70</a></span></p>
+<p>Society of Arts, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page67">67</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; of British Artists, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page70">70</a></span></p>
+<p>Soho Bazaar, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page114">114</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+<p>Somerset House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page44">44</a></span></p>
+<p>South-Eastern Railway, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page140">140</a></span></p>
+<p>South-Eastern Railway Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page103">103</a></span></p>
+<p>South Kensington Museum, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page64">64</a></span></p>
+<p>South Sea House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page95">95</a></span></p>
+<p>Southwark Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page103">103</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page133">133</a></span></p>
+<p>South-Western Railway, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page139">139</a></span></p>
+<p>Spitalfields, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span></p>
+<p>Spring Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page29">29</a></span></p>
+<p>Spurgeon&rsquo;s Tabernacle, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page60">60</a></span></p>
+<p>St. Bride&rsquo;s Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page26">26</a></span></p>
+<p>St. Clement Dane&rsquo;s Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+<p>St. Dunstan&rsquo;s Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page26">26</a></span></p>
+<p>St. George&rsquo;s Cathedral, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page60">60</a></span></p>
+<p>St. Helena Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
+<p>St. James&rsquo;s Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page58">58</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page124">124</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash;Palace, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page33">33</a></span></p>
+<p><a name="page189"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 189</span>St.
+James&rsquo;s Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page29">29</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page33">33</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page38">38</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+<p>St. John&rsquo;s Gate, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Wood, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+<p>St. Katherine&rsquo;s Docks, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page100">100</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Hos., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page132">132</a></span></p>
+<p>St. Martin&rsquo;s Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span></p>
+<p>St. Martin&rsquo;s-le-Grand, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
+<p>St. Mary&rsquo;s Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+<p>St. Pancras&rsquo; Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page33">33</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page32">32</a></span></p>
+<p>St. Paul&rsquo;s Cathedral, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page20">20</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page47">47</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Churchyard, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page20">20</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page112">112</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; School, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page73">73</a></span></p>
+<p>Stafford House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page38">38</a></span></p>
+<p>Star and Garter, Putney, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page145">145</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page149">149</a></span></p>
+<p>State Paper Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page92">92</a></span></p>
+<p>Stationers&rsquo; Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page97">97</a></span></p>
+<p>Steam-boat Piers, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
+<p>Steamers, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page142">142</a></span></p>
+<p>Stepney, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span></p>
+<p>Stock Exchange, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span></p>
+<p>Strand, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page29">29</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+<p>Strawberry Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page148">148</a></span></p>
+<p>Streets, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page113">113</a></span></p>
+<p>Suburban Villages, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page169">169</a></span></p>
+<p>Sun Fire Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span></p>
+<p>Surrey Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page123">123</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>Taverns, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page119">119</a></span></p>
+<p>Tea Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
+<p>Telegraphs, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page175">175</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page176">176</a></span></p>
+<p>Temperance Hotels, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
+<p>Temple, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page26">26</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page90">90</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Bar, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page26">26</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page91">91</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page91">91</a></span></p>
+<p>Thames, and Shipping, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page97">97</a></span></p>
+<p>Thames Embankment, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page14">14</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page106">106</a></span></p>
+<p>Thames Subway, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Tunnel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page101">101</a></span></p>
+<p>Theatres, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page121">121</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page176">176</a></span></p>
+<p>Threadneedle St., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page93">93</a></span></p>
+<p>Tilbury, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; and Southend Railway, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
+<p><i>Times&rsquo;</i> Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page21">21</a></span></p>
+<p>Tobacco Dock, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page100">100</a></span></p>
+<p>Tooley Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span></p>
+<p>Tower of London, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page18">18</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page77">77</a></span></p>
+<p>Tower Subway, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page101">101</a></span></p>
+<p>Trades, Number of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page114">114</a></span></p>
+<p>Trafalgar Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page29">29</a></span></p>
+<p>Training Colleges, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page73">73</a></span></p>
+<p>Tramways, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page173">173</a></span></p>
+<p>Treasury, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page46">46</a></span></p>
+<p>Trinity House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page95">95</a></span></p>
+<p>Turkish Baths, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page180">180</a></span></p>
+<p>Turner&rsquo;s Pictures, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page68">68</a></span></p>
+<p>Tussaud&rsquo;s Exhibition, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
+<p>Twickenham, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page148">148</a></span></p>
+<p>Tyburnia, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>United Service Museum, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page67">67</a></span></p>
+<p>University College, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page71">71</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page72">72</a></span></p>
+<p>Upper Regent Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
+<p>Up River Excursions, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page143">143</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>Vaudeville Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
+<p>Vauxhall Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page104">104</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
+<p>Vegetable Markets, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page111">111</a></span></p>
+<p>Vernon Pictures, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page68">68</a></span></p>
+<p>Victoria Docks, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page99">99</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page132">132</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page140">140</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page22">22</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page123">123</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Tower, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page43">43</a></span></p>
+<p>Villiers&rsquo; Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+<p>Vintners&rsquo; Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page97">97</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>Walbrook, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page15">15</a></span></p>
+<p>Walham Green, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page145">145</a></span></p>
+<p>Waltham, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page163">163</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Abbey, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page163">163</a></span></p>
+<p>Wandsworth, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page144">144</a></span></p>
+<p>War Office, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page47">47</a></span></p>
+<p>Water-colour Exhib., <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page70">70</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Supply, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page109">109</a></span></p>
+<p>Waterloo Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page45">45</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page104">104</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Place, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page139">139</a></span></p>
+<p>Wellington&rsquo;s Statue, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page39">39</a></span></p>
+<p>Wesleyan College, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page72">72</a></span></p>
+<p>Westbourne Terrace, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+<p>West-End, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; India Docks, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page99">99</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; London Rail, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page139">139</a></span></p>
+<p>Westminster Abbey, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page51">51</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page41">41</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page104">104</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page41">41</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page44">44</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Palace, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page29">29</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Palace Hotel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page119">119</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; School, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page73">73</a></span></p>
+<p>Weston&rsquo;s Music Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page124">124</a></span></p>
+<p>Wharfs, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
+<p>Whitebait Taverns, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page155">155</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page159">159</a></span></p>
+<p>Whitechapel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Market, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page111">111</a></span></p>
+<p>Whitecross Street Prison, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page92">92</a></span></p>
+<p>Whitehall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page29">29</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Banqueting House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Chapel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page57">57</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
+<p>Wimbledon, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page144">144</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page163">163</a></span></p>
+<p>Winchester Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span></p>
+<p>Windsor, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page151">151</a></span></p>
+<p>&mdash; Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page153">153</a></span></p>
+<p>Wine Vaults, Docks, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page100">100</a></span></p>
+<p>Woking Necropolis, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page61">61</a></span></p>
+<p>Wood Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span></p>
+<p>Woolwich, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page159">159</a></span></p>
+<p>Wren&rsquo;s Churches, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page58">58</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>Zoological Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page133">133</a></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page190"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 190</span><span class="GutSmall">WILLIAM
+COLLINS &amp; CO., PRINTERS,</span><br />
+<span class="GutSmall">HERRIOT HILL WORKS, GLASGOW.</span></p>
+<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
+<h2>FOOTNOTES</h2>
+<p><a name="footnote16"></a><a href="#citation16"
+class="footnote">[16]</a>&nbsp; Most of the illustrations are
+<i>bird&rsquo;s-eye views</i>, taken from house-tops and
+church-towers, in order to shew as many public buildings as
+possible.&nbsp; The reader will attribute to this cause any
+apparent distortion of perspective, as compared with views taken
+from level ground.</p>
+<p><a name="footnote18"></a><a href="#citation18"
+class="footnote">[18]</a>&nbsp; This tremendous conflagration was
+one of the largest ever known in London since 1666, involving the
+loss of property valued at two millions sterling.&nbsp; The ruins
+were still hot, steaming and smoking, seven weeks after the fire
+commenced.&nbsp; Mr. Braidwood, chief of the London Fire Brigade,
+perished in the ruins; a public funeral testified to the esteem
+in which he was held.</p>
+<p><a name="footnote20"></a><a href="#citation20"
+class="footnote">[20]</a>&nbsp; This is not what is called <span
+class="smcap">London Stone</span>.&nbsp; That famous stone will
+be found on the side of St. Swithin&rsquo;s Church, New Cannon
+Street.&nbsp; (See p. 168.)</p>
+<p><a name="footnote40"></a><a href="#citation40"
+class="footnote">[40]</a>&nbsp; Tickets of admission can
+generally be obtained, during the season, of Messrs Smith, 137
+New Bond Street.&nbsp; Days of admission, from 10 till 5,
+Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays.</p>
+<p><a name="footnote47a"></a><a href="#citation47a"
+class="footnote">[47a]</a>&nbsp; The total cost, including 200
+tons of iron-railing, was &pound;1,511,202.</p>
+<p><a name="footnote47b"></a><a href="#citation47b"
+class="footnote">[47b]</a>&nbsp; It is strange that, in relation
+to the best known building in London, great discordance reigns
+concerning the total <i>height</i>.&nbsp; Wren&rsquo;s son, in
+the <i>Parentalia</i>, simply states that the lantern is 330 feet
+from the ground; Maitland gives the total height at 340 feet;
+many authorities name 360 feet; while several Hand-books and
+Guides, following the pamphlet sold in the cathedral, raise it to
+404 feet.&nbsp; This last statement agrees with the Cockney
+tradition, that St. Paul&rsquo;s is twice as high as the
+Monument.&nbsp; A careful examination of the vertical section,
+however, shews that the height is about 356 feet above the marble
+pavement of the cathedral, 375 above the level of the crypt, and
+370 above the pavement of the churchyard.&nbsp; It will thus be
+sufficiently near the truth to say that St. Paul&rsquo;s is 365
+feet high&mdash;a familiar number, easy to remember.</p>
+<p><a name="footnote178"></a><a href="#citation178"
+class="footnote">[178]</a>&nbsp; Is also a theatre.</p>
+<p><a name="footnote179"></a><a href="#citation179"
+class="footnote">[179]</a>&nbsp; Is also a theatre.</p>
+<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COLLINS' ILLUSTRATED GUIDE TO LONDON</p>
+<pre>
+AND NEIGHBOURHOOD***
+
+
+***** This file should be named 39379-h.htm or 39379-h.zip******
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diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt
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+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
diff --git a/README.md b/README.md
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #39379 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/39379)